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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/1560-0.txt b/1560-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..aeae819 --- /dev/null +++ b/1560-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,13522 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The San Francisco Calamity, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The San Francisco Calamity + +Author: Various + +Editor: Charles Morris + +Release Date: May 3, 2006 [EBook #1560] +Last Updated: November 16, 2016 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY *** + + + + +Produced by Donald Lainson + + + + + +THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + + +A Complete and Accurate Account of the Fearful Disaster which +Visited the Great City and the Pacific Coast, the Reign of Panic and +Lawlessness, the Plight of 300,000 Homeless People and the World-wide +Rush to the Rescue. + +TOLD BY EYE WITNESSES + +INCLUDING GRAPHIC AND RELIABLE ACCOUNTS OF ALL GREAT EARTHQUAKES AND +VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS IN THE WORLD’S HISTORY, AND SCIENTIFIC EXPLANATIONS +OF THEIR CAUSES. + + + +EDITED BY CHARLES MORRIS, LL. D. + + + + +PREFACE + + +Earthquake and famine, fire and sudden death--these are the destroyers +that men fear when they come singly; but upon the unhappy people of +California they came together, a hideous quartette, to slay human +beings, to blot from existence the wealth that represented prolonged and +strenuous effort, to bring hunger and speechless misery to three hundred +thousand homeless and terror-stricken people. + +The full measure of the catastrophe can probably never be taken. The +summary cannot be made amid the panic, the confusion, the removal of +ancient landmarks, the complete subversion of the ordinary machinery +of society. When chaos comes, as it did in San Francisco, and all the +channels of familiar life are closed, and human anguish grows to be +intolerable, compilation of statistics is impossible, even if it were +not repugnant to the feelings. And when order is once more restored, +after the lapse of many weeks, months and perhaps years, the details of +the calamity have merged into one undecipherable mass of misery which +defies the analyst and the historian. It is the purpose of this book +faithfully to record the story of these awful days when years were lived +in a moment and to preserve an accurate chronicle of them, not only +for the people whose hearts yearn in sympathy to-day, but for their +posterity. + +Other frightful catastrophes the world has known. The earthquake which +dropped Lisbon into the sea in 1755, and in a moment swallowed up +twenty-five thousand people, was perhaps more awful than the convulsion +which has brought woe to San Francisco. When Krakatoa Mountain, in the +Straits of Sunda, in 1883, split asunder and poured across the land a +mighty wave, in which thirty-six thousand human beings perished, the +results also were more terrible. + +The whirlwind of fire which consumed St. Pierre, in the Island of +Martinique, and the devastation wrought by Vesuvius a few days previous +to that at San Francisco, need not be used for comparison with the +latter tragedy, but they may be referred to, that we may recall the fact +that this land of ours is not the only one which has suffered. + +But since the western hemisphere was discovered there has been in this +quarter of the globe no violence of natural forces at all comparable in +destructive fury with that which was manifested upon the Pacific coast. +The only other calamity at all equalling it, or surpassing it, was the +Civil War, and that was the work of the evil passions of man inciting +him to slay his brother, while Nature would have had him live in peace. + +The earthquake in San Francisco, which crumbled strong buildings as if +they were made of paper, would have been terrible enough; but afterward +came the horror of fire and of imprisoned men and women burned alive, +and now to it was added the suffering of multitudes from hunger and +exposure. + +Public attention is fixed on the great city; but smaller cities had +their days and nights of destruction, horror and misery. Some were +almost destroyed. Others were partly ruined, and beyond their borders, +over a wide area, the trembling of the earth toppled houses, annihilated +property and transformed riches into poverty. The cost in life can be +reckoned. The money loss will never be computed, for the appraised value +of the wrecked property conveys no notion of the consequences of the +almost complete paralysis, for a time, of the commercial operations by +means of which men and women earn their bread. + +When the weakness and the folly and the sin of men bring woe upon other +men, there are plenty of texts for the preacher and no scarcity of +earnest preachers. But here is a vast and awful catastrophe that +befell from an act of Nature apparently no more extraordinary than the +shrinkage of hot metal in the process of cooling. The consequences are +terrifying in this case because they involve the habitations of half a +million people; but, no doubt, the process goes on somewhere within +the earth almost continuously, and it no more involves the theory of +malignant Nature than that of an angry God. + +If we contemplate it, possibly we may be helped to a profitable estimate +of our own relative insignificance. We think, with some notion of our +importance, of the thousand million men who live upon the earth; but +they are a mere handful of animate atoms in comparison with the surface, +to say nothing of the solid contents, of the globe itself. + +We are fond of boasting in this latter day of man’s marvelous success +in subduing the forces of Nature; and, while we are in the midst of +exultation over our victories, Nature tumbles the rocks about somewhere +within the bowels of the earth, and we have to learn the old lesson that +our triumphs have not penetrated farther than to the very outermost rim +of the realms of Nature. + +A few weak, almost helpless, creatures, we millions of men stand upon +the deck of a great ship, which goes rolling through space that is +itself incomprehensible, and usually we are so busy with our paltry +ambitions, our transgressions, our righteous labors, our prides and +hopes and entanglements that we forget where we are and what is our +destiny. A direct interposition from a Superior Power, even if it +be hurtful to the body, might be required to persuade us to stop and +consider and take anew our bearings, so that we may comprehend in some +larger degree our precise relations to things. The wisest men have +been the most ready to recognize the beneficence of the discipline of +affliction. If there were no sorrow, we should be likely to find the +school of life unprofitable. + +For one thing, the school wherein sorrow is a part of the discipline is +that in which is developed human sympathy, one of the finest and most +ennobling manifestations of the Love which is, in its essence, divine. +In human life there is much that is ignoble, and the race has almost +contemptible weakness and insignificance in comparison with the physical +forces of the universe. + +But man is superior to all these forces in his possession of the power +of affection; and in almost the lowest and basest of the race this +power, if latent and half lost, may be found and evoked by the spectacle +of the suffering of a fellow-creature. + +The human family looks on with pity while the homeless and hungry and +impoverished Californians endure pangs. Wherever the news went, by +the swift processes of electricity, there men and women, some of them, +perhaps, hardly knowing where California is, were sorry and willing +and eager to help. There are quarrels within the family sometimes, when +nation wars with nation, and all love seems to have vanished; but the +world is, in truth, akin. “God hath made of one blood all the nations of +the earth,” and the blood “tells” when suffering comes. + +THE PUBLISHERS. + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I. + +SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS TERRIFIC EARTHQUAKE + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE DEMON OF FIRE INVADES THE STRICKEN CITY + + +CHAPTER III. + +FIGHTING FLAMES WITH DYNAMITE + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE REIGN OF DESTRUCTION AND DEVASTATION + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE PANIC FLIGHT OF A HOMELESS HOST + + +CHAPTER VI. + +FACING FAMINE AND PRAYING FOR RELIEF + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FRIGHTFUL LOSS OF LIFE AND WEALTH + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +WONDERFUL RECORD OF THRILLING ESCAPES + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DISASTER SPREADS OVER THE GOLDEN STATE + + +CHAPTER X. + +ALL AMERICA AND CANADA TO THE RESCUE + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE SAN FRANCISCO OF THE PAST + + +CHAPTER XII. + +LIFE IN THE METROPOLIS OF THE PACIFIC + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +PLANS TO REBUILD SAN FRANCISCO + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +THE EARTHQUAKE WAVE FELT AROUND THE WORLD + + +CHAPTER XV. + +VESUVIUS DEVASTATES THE REGION OF NAPLES + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +THE GREAT LISBON AND CALABRIAN EARTHQUAKES + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE CHARLESTON AND OTHER EARTHQUAKES OF THE UNITED STATES + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE VOLCANO AND THE EARTHQUAKE, EARTH’S DEMONS OF DESTRUCTION + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE THEORIES OF VOLCANIC AND EARTHQUAKE ACTION + + +CHAPTER XX. + +THE ACTIVE VOLCANOES OF THE EARTH + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +THE FAMOUS VESUVIUS AND THE DESTRUCTION OF POMPEII + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +ERUPTIONS OF VESUVIUS, ETNA AND STROMBOLI + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +SKAPTER JOKULL AND HECLA, THE GREAT ICELANDIC VOLCANOES + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +VOLCANOES OF THE PHILIPPINES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +THE WONDERFUL HAWAIIAN CRATERS AND KILAUEA’S LAKE OF FIRE + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +POPOCATEPETL AND OTHER VOLCANOES OF MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +THE TERRIBLE ERUPTION OF KRAKATOA + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +MONT PELEE AND ITS HARVEST OF DEATH IN 1902 + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +ST. VINCENT ISLAND AND MONT SOUFRIERE IN 1812 + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +SUBMARINE VOLCANOES AND THEIR WORK OF ISLAND-BUILDING + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +MUD VOLCANOES, GEYSERS AND HOT SPRINGS + + + + + +THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + + + +CHAPTER I. + +San Francisco and Its Terrific Earthquake. + + +On the splendid Bay of San Francisco, one of the noblest harbors on the +whole vast range of the Pacific Ocean, long has stood, like a Queen of +the West on its seven hills, the beautiful city of San Francisco, the +youngest and in its own way one of the most beautiful and attractive of +the large cities of the United States. Born less than sixty years ago, +it has grown with the healthy rapidity of a young giant, outvieing many +cities of much earlier origin, until it has won rank as the eighth city +of the United States, and as the unquestioned metropolis of our far +Western States. + +It is on this great and rich city that the dark demon of destruction has +now descended, as it fell on the next younger of our cities, Chicago, in +1872. It was the rage of the fire-fiend that desolated the metropolis +of the lakes. Upon the Queen City of the West the twin terrors of +earthquake and conflagration have descended at once, careening through +its thronged streets, its marts of trade, and its abodes alike of +poverty and wealth, and with the red hand of devastation sweeping one +of the noblest centres of human industry and enterprise from the face of +the earth. It is this story of almost irremediable ruin which it is our +unwelcome duty to chronicle. But before entering upon this sorrowful +task some description of the city that has fallen a prey to two of the +earth’s chief agents of destruction must be given. + +San Francisco is built on the end of a peninsula or tongue of land lying +between the Pacific Ocean and the broad San Francisco Bay, a noble body +of inland water extending southward for about forty miles and with a +width varying from six to twelve miles. Northward this splendid body of +water is connected with San Pablo Bay, ten miles long, and the latter +with Suisun Bay, eight miles long, the whole forming a grand range of +navigable waters only surpassed by the great northern inlet of Puget +Sound. The Golden Gate, a channel five miles long, connects this +great harbor with the sea, the whole giving San Francisco the greatest +commercial advantages to be found on the Pacific coast. + + +THE EARLY DAYS OF SAN FRANCISCO. + + +The original site of the city was a grant made by the King of Spain of +four square leagues of land. Congress afterwards confirmed this grant. +It was an uninviting region, with its two lofty hills and its various +lower ones, a barren expanse of shifting sand dunes extending from their +feet. The population in 1830 was about 200 souls, about equal to that +of Chicago at the same date. It was not much larger in 1848, when +California fell into American hands and the discovery of gold set in +train the famous rush of treasure seekers to that far land. When 1849 +dawned the town contained about 2,000 people. They had increased to +20,000 before the year ended. The place, with its steep and barren hills +and its sandy stretches, was not inviting, but its ease of access to the +sea and its sheltered harbor were important features, and people settled +there, making it a depot of mining supplies and a point of departure for +the mines. + +The place grew rapidly and has continued to grow. At first a city of +flimsy frame buildings, it became early a prey to the flames, fire +sweeping through it three times in 1850 and taking toll of the young +city to the value of $7,500,000. These conflagrations swept away most of +the wooden houses, and business men began to build more substantially +of brick, stone and iron. Yet to-day, for climatic reasons, most of the +residences continue to be built of wood. But the slow-burning redwood +of the California hillsides is used instead of the inflammable pine, the +result being that since 1850 the loss by fire in the residence section +of the city has been remarkably small. In 1900 the city contained 50,494 +frame and only 3,881 stone and brick buildings, though the tendency to +use more durable materials was then growing rapidly. + +Before describing the terrible calamity which fell upon this beautiful +city on that dread morning of April 18, 1906, some account of the +character of the place is very desirable, that readers may know what San +Francisco was before the rage of earthquake and fire reduced it to what +it is to-day. + + +THE CHARACTER OF THE CITY. + + +The site of the city of San Francisco is very uneven, embracing a series +of hills, of which the highest ones, known as the Twin Peaks, reach to +an elevation of 925 feet, and form the crown of an amphitheatre of lower +altitudes. Several of the latter are covered with handsome residences, +and afford a magnificent view of the surrounding country, with its +bordering bay and ocean, and the noble Golden Gate channel, a river-like +passage from ocean to bay of five miles in length and one in width. This +waterway is very deep except on the bar at its mouth, where the depth of +water is thirty feet. + +Since its early days the growth of the city has been very rapid. In 1900 +it held 342,782 people, and the census estimate made from figures of the +city directory in 1904 gave it then a population of 485,000, probably +a considerable exaggeration. In it are mingled inhabitants from most +of the nations of the earth, and it may claim the unenviable honor of +possessing the largest population of Chinese outside of China itself, +the colony numbering over 20,000. + +Of the pioneer San Francisco few traces remain, the old buildings having +nearly all disappeared. Large and costly business houses and splendid +residences have taken their place in the central portion of the city, +marble, granite, terra-cotta, iron and steel being largely used as +building material. The great prevalence of frame buildings in the +residence sections is largely due to the popular belief that they +are safer in a locality subject to earthquakes, while the frequent +occurrence of earth tremors long restrained the inclination to erect +lofty buildings. Not until 1890 was a high structure built, and few +skyscrapers had invaded the city up to its day of ruin. They will +probably be introduced more frequently in the future, recent experience +having demonstrated that they are in considerable measure earthquake +proof. + +The city before the fire contained numerous handsome structures, +including the famous old Palace Hotel, built at a cost of $3,000,000 and +with accommodations for 1,200 guests; the nearly finished and splendid +Fairmount Hotel; the City Hall, with its lofty dome, on which $7,000,000 +is said to have been spent, much of it, doubtless, political plunder; +a costly United States Mint and Post Office, an Academy of Science, and +many churches, colleges, libraries and other public edifices. The city +had 220 miles of paved streets, 180 miles of electric and 77 of cable +railway, 62 hotels, 16 theatres, 4 large libraries, 5 daily newspapers, +etc., together with 28 public parks. + +Sitting, like Rome of old, on its seven hills, San Francisco has long +been noted for its beautiful site, clasped in, as it is, between the +Pacific Ocean and its own splendid bay, on a peninsula of some five +miles in width. Where this juts into the bay at its northernmost point +rises a great promontory known as Telegraph Hill, from whose height +homeless thousands have recently gazed on the smoke rising from their +ruined homes. In the early days of golden promise a watchman was +stationed on this hill to look out for coming ships entering the Golden +Gate from their long voyage around the Horn and signal the welcome news +to the town below. From this came its name. + +Cliffs rise on either side of the Golden Gate, and on one is perched the +Cliff House, long a famous hostelry. This stands so low that in storms +the surf is flung over its lower porticos, though its force is broken +by the Seal Rocks. A chief attraction to this house was to see the seals +play on these rocks, their favorite place of resort. The Cliff House was +at first said to have been swept bodily by the earthquake into the sea, +but it proved to be very little injured, and stands erect in its old +picturesque location. + +In the vicinity of Telegraph Hill are Russian and Nob Hills, the latter +getting its peculiar title from the fact that the wealthy “nobs,” or +mining magnates, of bonanza days built their homes on its summit level. +Farther to the east are Mount Olympus and Strawberry Hill, and beyond +these the Twin Peaks, which really embrace three hills, the third being +named Bernal Heights. Farther to the south and east is Rincan Hill, the +last in the half moon crescent of hills, within which is a spread of +flat ground extending to the bay. Behind the hills on the Pacific side +stretches a vast sweep of sand, at some places level, but often gathered +into great round dunes. Part of this has been transformed into the +beautiful Golden Gate Park, a splendid expanse of green verdure which +has long been one of San Francisco’s chief attractions. + +Beneath the whole of San Francisco is a rock formation, but everywhere +on top of this extends the sand, the gift of the winds. This is of such +a character that a hole dug in the street anywhere, even if only to the +depth of a few feet, must be shored up with planking or it will fill as +fast as it is excavated, the sand running as dry as the contents of +an hour glass. When there is an earthquake--or a “temblor,” to use the +Spanish name--it is the rock foundation that is disturbed, not the sand, +which, indeed, serves to lessen the effect of the earth tremor. + + +THE FOUNDATIONS OF THE CITY. + + +Leaving the region of the hills and descending from their +crescent-shaped expanse, we find a broad extent of low ground, sloping +gently toward the bay. On this low-lying flat was built all of San +Francisco’s business houses, all its principal hotels and a large part +of its tenements and poorer dwellings. It was here that the earthquake +was felt most severely and that the fire started which laid waste the +city. + +Rarely has a city been built on such doubtful foundations. The greater +part of the low ground was a bay in 1849, but it has since been filled +in by the drifting sands blown from the ocean side by the prevailing +west winds and by earth dumped into it. Much of this land was “made +ground.” Forty-niners still alive say that when they first saw San +Francisco the waters of the bay came up to Montgomery Street. The Palace +Hotel was in Montgomery Street, and from there to the ferry docks--a +long walk for any man--the water had been driven back by a “filling-in” + process. + +This is the district that especially suffered, that south of Market +and east of Montgomery Streets. Nearly all the large buildings in this +section are either built on piles driven into the sand and mud or were +raised upon wooden foundations. It is on such ground as this that the +costly Post Office building was erected, despite the protests of nearly +the entire community, who asserted that the ground was nothing but a +filled-in bog. + +In none of the earthquakes that San Francisco has had was any serious +damage except to houses in this filled-in territory, and to houses built +along the line of some of the many streams which ran from the hills down +to the bay, and which were filled in as the town grew--for instance, +the Grand Opera House was built over the bed of St. Anne’s Creek. A bog, +slough and marsh, known as the Pipeville Slough, was the ground on which +the City Hall was built, and which was originally a burying ground. Sand +from the western shore had blown over and drifted into the marsh and +hardened its surface. + +When the final grading scheme of the city was adopted in 1853, and +work went on, the water front of the city was where Clay Street now is, +between Montgomery and Sansome Streets. The present level area of San +Francisco of about three thousand acres is an average of nine feet +above or below the natural surface of the ground and the changes made +necessitated the transfer of 21,000,000 cubic yards from hills to +hollows. Houses to the number of thousands were raised or lowered, +street floors became subcellars or third stories and the whole natural +face of the ground was altered. + +Through this infirm material all the pipes of the water and sewer system +of San Francisco in its business districts and in most of the region +south of Market street were laid. When the earthquake came, the +filled-in ground shook like the jelly it is. The only firm and rigid +material in its millions of cubic yards of surface area and depth were +the iron pipes. Naturally they broke, as they would not bend, and San +Francisco’s water system was therefore instantly disabled, with the +result that the fire became complete master of the situation and raged +uncontrolled for three days and nights. + +Although the earthquake wrecked the business and residential portions +of the city alike, on the hills the land did not sink. All “made ground” + sank in consequence of the quaking, but on the high ground the upper +parts of the buildings were about the only portions of the structures +wrecked. Most of the damage on the hills was done by falling chimneys. +On Montgomery Street, half a block from the main office of the Western +Union Company, the middle of the street was cracked and blown up, but +during the shocks which struck the Western Union building only the +top stories were cracked. Similar phenomena were experienced in other +localities, and the bulk of the disaster, so far as the earthquake was +concerned, was confined to the low-lying region above described. + + +THE BANE OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +From the origin of San Francisco the earthquake has been its bane. +During the past fifty years fully 250 shocks have been recorded, while +all California has been subject to them. But frequency rather than +violence of shocks has been the characteristic of the seismic history of +the State, there having been few shocks that caused serious damage, and +none since 1872 that led to loss of life. + +There was a violent shock in 1856, when the city was only a mining town +of small frame buildings. Several shanties were overthrown and a few +persons killed by falling walls and chimneys. There was a severe shock +also in 1865, in which many buildings were shattered. Next in violence +was the shock of 1872, which cracked the walls of some of the public +buildings and caused a panic. There was no great loss of life. In April, +1898, just before midnight, there was a lively shakeup which caused +the tall buildings to shake like the snapping of a whip and drove the +tourists out of the hotels into the streets in their nightclothes. Three +or four old houses fell, and the Benicia Navy Yard, which is on made +ground across the bay, was damaged to the extent of about $100,000. The +last severe shock was in January, 1900, when the St. Nicholas Hotel was +badly damaged. + +These were the heaviest shocks. On the other hand, light shocks, as +above said, have been frequent. Probably the sensible quakes have +averaged three or four a year. These are usually tremblings lasting from +ten seconds to a minute and just heavy enough to wake light sleepers +or to shake dishes about on the shelves. Tourists and newcomers are +generally alarmed by these phenomena, but old Californians have +learned to take them philosophically. To one who is not afraid of them, +the sensation of one of these little tremblers is rather pleasant than +otherwise, and the inhabitants grew so accustomed to them as rarely to +let them disturb their equanimity. + +After 1900 the forces beneath the earth seemed to fall asleep. As it +proved, they were only biding their time. The era was at hand when they +were to declare themselves in all their mighty power and fall upon the +devoted city with ruin in their grasp. But all this lay hidden in the +secret casket of time, and the city kept up to its record as one of the +liveliest and in many respects the most reckless and pleasure-loving +on the continent, its people squandering their money with thoughtless +improvidence and enjoying to the full all the good that life held out to +them. + +On the 17th of April, 1906, the city was, as usual, gay, careless, busy, +its people attending to business or pleasure with their ordinary vim as +inclination led them, and not a soul dreaming of the horrors that lay in +wait. They were as heedless of coming peril and death as the inhabitants +of Sodom and Gomorrah before the rain of fire from heaven descended upon +their devoted heads. This is not to say that they were doomed by God to +destruction like these “cities of the plains.” We should more wisely +say that the forces of ruin within the earth take no heed of persons or +places. They come and go as the conditions of nature demand, and if man +has built one of his cities across their destined track, its doom comes +from its situation, not from the moral state of its inhabitants. + + +THE GREAT DISASTER OF 1906. + + +That night the people went, with their wonted equanimity, to their beds, +rich and poor, sick and well alike. Did any of them dream of disaster in +the air? It may be so, for often, as the poet tells us, “Coming events +cast their shadows before.” But, forewarned by dreams or not, doubtless +not a soul in the great city was prepared for the terrible event so +near at hand, when, at thirteen minutes past five o’clock on the dread +morning of the 18th, they felt their beds lifted beneath them as if by +a Titan hand, heard the crash of falling walls and ceilings, and saw +everything in their rooms tossed madly about, while through their +windows came the roar of an awful disaster from the city without. + +It was a matter not of minutes, but of seconds, yet on all that coast, +long the prey of the earthquake, no shock like it had ever been felt, +no such sudden terror awakened, no such terrible loss occasioned as in +those few fearful seconds. Again and again the trembling of the earth +passed by, three quickly repeated shocks, and the work of the demon of +ruin was done. People woke with a start to find themselves flung from +their beds to the floor, many of them covered with the fragments of +broken ceilings, many lost among the ruins of falling floors and walls, +many pinned in agonizing suffering under the ruins of their houses, +which had been utterly wrecked in those fatal seconds. Many there were, +indeed, who had been flung to quick if not to instant death under their +ruined homes. + +Those seconds of the reign of the elemental forces had turned the +gayest, most careless city on the continent into a wreck which no words +can fitly describe. Those able to move stumbled in wild panic across the +floors of their heaving houses, regardless of clothing, of treasures, of +everything but the mad instinct for safety, and rushed headlong into the +streets, to find that the earth itself had yielded to the energy of its +frightful interior forces and had in places been torn and rent like the +houses themselves. New terrors assailed the fugitives as fresh tremors +shook the solid ground, some of them strong enough to bring down +shattered walls and chimneys, and bring back much of the mad terror of +the first fearful quake. The heaviest of these came at eight o’clock. +While less forcible than that which had caused the work of destruction, +it added immensely to the panic and dread of the people and put many of +the wanderers to flight, some toward the ferry, the great mass in the +direction of the sand dunes and Golden Gate Park. + +The spectacle of the entire population of a great city thus roused +suddenly from slumber by a fierce earthquake shock and sent flying into +the streets in utter panic, where not buried under falling walls or +tumbling debris, is one that can scarcely be pictured in words, and can +be given in any approach to exact realization only in the narratives of +those who passed through its horrors and experienced the sensations to +which it gave rise. Some of the more vivid of these personal accounts +will be presented later, but at present we must confine ourselves to a +general statement of the succession of events. + +The earthquake proved but the beginning and much the least destructive +part of the disaster. In many of the buildings there were fires, banked +for the night, but ready to kindle the inflammable material hurled down +upon them by the shock. In others were live electric wires which the +shock brought in contact with woodwork. The terror-stricken fugitives +saw, here and there, in all directions around them, the alarming vision +of red flames curling upward and outward, in gleaming contrast to the +white light of dawn just showing in the eastern sky. Those lurid gleams +climbed upward in devouring haste, and before the sun had fairly risen +a dozen or more conflagrations were visible in all sections of the +business part of the city, and in places great buildings broke with +startling suddenness into flame, which shot hotly high into the air. + +While the mass of the people were stunned by the awful suddenness of the +disaster and stood rooted to the ground or wandered helplessly about in +blank dismay, there were many alert and self-possessed among them who +roused themselves quickly from their dismay and put their energies +to useful work. Some of these gave themselves to the work of rescue, +seeking to save the injured from their perilous situation and draw +the bodies of the dead from the ruins under which they lay. Those base +wretches to whom plunder is always the first thought were as quickly +engaged in seeking for spoil in edifices laid open to their plundering +hands by the shock. Meanwhile the glare of the flames brought the +fire-fighters out in hot haste with their engines, and up from the +military station at the Presidio, on the Golden Gate side of the city, +came at double quick a force of soldiers, under the efficient command of +General Funston, of Cuban and Philippine fame. These trained troops were +at once put on guard over the city, with directions to keep the best +order possible, and with strict command to shoot all looters at sight. +Funston recognized at the start the necessity of keeping the lawless +element under control in such an exigency as that which he had to face. +Later in the day the First Regiment of California National Guards was +called out and put on duty, with similar orders. + + +RESCUERS AND FIRE-FIGHTERS. + + +The work of fighting the fire was the first and greatest duty to be +performed, but from the start it proved a very difficult, almost a +hopeless, task. With fierce fires burning at once in a dozen or more +separate places, the fire department of the city would have been +inadequate to cope with the demon of flame even under the best of +circumstances. As it was, they found themselves handicapped at the start +by a nearly total lack of water. The earthquake had disarranged and +broken the water mains and there was scarcely a drop of water to be had, +so that the engines proved next to useless. Water might be drawn from +the bay, but the centre of the conflagration was a mile or more away, +and this great body of water was rendered useless in the stringent +exigency. + +The only hope that remained to the authorities was to endeavor to check +the progress of the flames by the use of dynamite, blowing up buildings +in the line of progress of the conflagration. This was put in practice +without loss of time, and soon the thunder-like roar of the explosions +began, blasts being heard every few minutes, each signifying that some +building had been blown to atoms. But over the gaps thus made the flames +leaped, and though the brave fellows worked with a desperation and +energy of the most heroic type, it seemed as if all their labors were +to be without avail, the terrible fire marching on as steadily as if a +colony of ants had sought to stay its devastating progress. + + +THE HORROR OF THE PEOPLE. + + +It was with grief and horror that the mass of the people gazed on this +steady march of the army of ruin. They were seemingly half dazed by the +magnitude of the disaster, strangely passive in the face of the ruin +that surrounded them, as if stunned by despair and not yet awakened to +a realization of the horrors of the situation. Among these was the +possibility of famine. No city at any time carries more than a few days’ +supply of provisions, and with the wholesale districts and warehouse +regions invaded by the flames the shortage of food made itself apparent +from the start. Water was even more difficult to obtain, the supply +being nearly all cut off. Those who possessed supplies of food and +liquids of any kind in many cases took advantage of the opportunity to +advance their prices. Thus an Associated Press man was obliged to pay +twenty-five cents for a small glass of mineral water, the only kind of +drink that at first was to be had, while food went up at the same rate, +bakers frequently charging as much as a dollar for a loaf. As for the +expressmen and cabmen, their charges were often practically prohibitory, +as much as fifty dollars being asked for the conveyance of a passenger +to the ferry. Policemen were early stationed at some of the retail +shops, regulating the sale and the price of food, and permitting only +a small portion to be sold to each purchaser, so as to prevent a few +persons from exhausting the supply. + +The fire, the swaying and tottering walls, the frequent dynamite +explosions, each followed by a crashing shower of stones and bricks, +rendered the streets very unsafe for pedestrians, and all day long +the flight of residents from the city went on, growing quickly to the +dimensions of a panic. The ferryboats were crowded with those who wished +to leave the city, and a constant stream of the homeless, carrying such +articles as they had rescued from their homes, was kept up all day +long, seeking the sand dunes, the parks and every place uninvaded by +the flames. Before night Golden Gate Park and the unbuilt districts +adjoining on the ocean side presented the appearance of a tented city, +shelter of many kinds being improvised from bedding and blankets, and +the people settling into such sparse comfort as these inadequate means +provided. + +A strange feature of the disaster was a rush to the banks by people who +wished to get their money and flee from the seemingly doomed city. The +fire front was yet distant from these institutions, which were destined +to fall a prey to the flames, and all that morning lines of dishevelled +and half-frantic men stood before the banks on Montgomery and Sansome +Streets, braving in their thirst for money the smoke and falling embers +and beating in wild anxiety upon the doors. Their effort was vain; the +doors remained closed; finally the police drove these people away, and +the banks went on with the work of saving their valuables. As for the +people who wildly fled toward the ferries, in spite of the fact that +ten blocks of fire, as the day went on, stopped all egress in that +direction, it became necessary for them to be driven back by the police +and the troops, and they were finally forced to seek safety in the +sands. And thus, with incident manifold, went on that fatal Wednesday, +the first day of the dread disaster. + + +OFFICIAL RECORD OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +It is important here to give the official record of the earthquake +shocks, as given by the scientists. Professor George Davidson, of the +University of California, says of them: + +“The earthquake came from north to south, and the only description I am +able to give of its effect is that it seemed like a terrier shaking a +rat. I was in bed, but was awakened by the first shock. I began to count +the seconds as I went towards the table where my watch was, being able +through much practice closely to approximate the time in that manner. +The shock came at 5.12 o’clock. The first sixty seconds were the most +severe. From that time on it decreased gradually for about thirty +seconds. There was then the slightest perceptible lull. Then the shock +continued for sixty seconds longer, being slighter in degree in this +minute than in any part of the preceding minute and a half. There were +two slight shocks afterwards which I did not time. At 8.14 o’clock +I recorded a shock of five seconds’ duration, and one at 4.15 of two +seconds. There were slight shocks which I did not record at 5.17 and at +5.27. At 6.50 P. M. there was a sharp shock of several seconds.” + +Professor A. O. Louschner, of the students’ observatory of the +University of California, thus records his observations: + +“The principal part of the earthquake came in two sections, the first +series of vibrations lasting about forty seconds. The vibrations +diminished gradually during the following ten seconds, and then occurred +with renewed vigor for about twenty-five seconds more. But even at +noon the disturbance had not subsided, as slight shocks are recorded +at frequent intervals on the seismograph. The motion was from +south-southeast to north-northwest. + +“The remarkable feature of this earthquake, aside from its intensity, +was its rotary motion. As seen from the print, the sum total of all +displacements represents a very regular ellipse, and some of the +lines representing the earth’s motion can be traced along the whole +circumference. The result of observation indicates that our heaviest +shocks are in the direction south-southeast to north-northwest. In that +respect the records of the three heaviest earthquakes agree entirely. +But they have several other features in common. One of these is +that while the displacements are very large the vibration period is +comparatively slow, amounting to about one second in the last two big +earthquakes.” + +If we seek to discover the actual damage done by the earthquake, the +fact stands out that the fire followed so close upon it that the traces +of its ravages were in many cases obliterated. So many buildings in the +territory of the severest shock fell a prey to the flames or to dynamite +that the actual work of the earth forces was made difficult and in +many places impossible to discover. This fact is likely to lead to +considerable dispute and delay when the question of insurance adjustment +comes up, many of the insurance companies confining their risk to fire +damage and claiming exemption from liability in the case of damage due +to earthquake. + +Among the chief victims of the earth-shake was the costly and showy City +Hall, with its picturesque dome standing loftily above the structure. +This dome was left still erect, but only as a skeleton might stand, with +its flesh gone and its bare ribs exposed to the searching air. Its roof, +its smaller towers came tumbling down in frightful disarray, and the +once proud edifice is to-day a miserable wreck, fire having aided +earthquake in its ruin. The new Post Office, a handsome government +building, also suffered severely from the shock, its walls being badly +cracked and injury done by earthquake and fire that it is estimated will +need half a million dollars to repair. + + +FREAKS OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +One observer states that the earthquake appeared to be very irregular in +its course. He tells us that “there are gas reservoirs with frames all +twisted and big factories thrown to the ground, while a few yards away +are miserable shanties with not a board out of place. Wooden, steel and +brick structures hardly felt the earthquake in some parts of the city, +while in other places all were wrecked. + +“Skirting the shore northwest from the big ferry building--which was +so seriously injured that it will have to be rebuilt--the first thing +observed was the extraordinary irregularity of the earthquake’s course. +Pier No. 5, for instance, is nothing but a mass of ruins, while Pier No. +3, on one side of it and Pier No. 7, on the other side, similar in size +and construction, are undamaged. Farther on, the Kosmos Line pier is a +complete wreck.” + +The big forts at the entrance to the Golden Gate also suffered seriously +from the great shake-up, and the emplacements of the big guns were +cracked and damaged. The same is the case with the fortifications +back of Old Fort Point, the great guns in these being for the present +rendered useless. It will take much time and labor to restore their +delicate adjustment upon their carriages. + +The buildings that collapsed in the city were all flimsy wooden +buildings and old brick structures, the steel frame buildings, even +the score or more in course of construction, escaping injury from the +earthquake shock. Of the former, one of the most complete wrecks was +the Valencia Hotel, a four-story wooden building, which collapsed into a +heap of ruins, pinning many persons under its splintered timbers. + + +SKYSCRAPERS EARTHQUAKE PROOF. + + +In fact, as the reports of damage wrought by the earthquake came in, +the conviction grew that one of the safest places during the earthquake +shock was on one of the upper floors of the skyscraper office buildings +or hotels. As a matter of fact, not a single person, so far as can be +learned, lost his or her life or was seriously injured in any of the +tall, steel frame structures in the city, although they rocked during +the quake like a ship in a gale. + +The loss of life was caused in almost every case by the collapse of +frame structures, which the native San Franciscan believed was the +safest of all in an earthquake, or by the shaking down of portions of +brick or stone buildings which did not possess an iron framework. The +manner in which the tall steel structures withstood the shock is a +complete vindication of the strongest claims yet made for them, and it +is made doubly interesting from the fact that this is the first occasion +on which the effect of an earthquake of any proportions on a tall steel +structure could be studied. + +The St. Francis Hotel, a sixteen-story structure, can be repaired at an +expenditure of about $400,000, its damage being almost wholly by fire. +The steel shell and the floors are intact. Although the building rocked +like a ship in a gale while the quake lasted, its foundations are +undamaged. Other steel buildings which are so little damaged as to admit +of repairs more or less extensive are the James Flood, the Union Trust, +the CALL building, the Mutual Savings Bank, the Crocker-Woolworth +building and the Postal building. All of these are modern buildings of +steel construction, from sixteen to twenty stories. + +A peculiar feature of the effect of the earthquake on structures of this +kind is reported in the case of the Fairmount Hotel, a fourteen-story +structure. The first two stories of the Fairmount are found to be so +seriously damaged that they will have to be rebuilt, while the other +twelve stories are uninjured. + +Various explanations are being made of the surprising resistance shown +by the skyscrapers. The great strength and binding power of the steel +frame, combined with a deep-seated foundation and great lightness as +compared with buildings of stone, are the main reasons given. The iron, +it is said, unlike stone, responded to the vibratory force and passed it +along to be expended in other directions, while brick or stone offered +a solid and impenetrable front, with the result that the seismic force +tended to expend itself by shaking the building to pieces. + +Whether there is any scientific basis for the latter theory or not, it +seems reasonable enough, in view of the descriptions given us of the +manner in which the steel buildings received the shock. All things +considered, the modern steel building has afforded in the San Francisco +earthquake the most convincing evidence of its strength. + +From Golden Gate Park came news of the total destruction of the large +building covering a portion of the children’s playground. The walls +were shattered beyond repair, the roof fell in, and the destruction was +complete. The pillars of the new stone gates at the park entrance were +twisted and torn from their foundations, some of them, weighing nearly +four tons, being shifted as though they were made of cork. It is a +little singular that the monuments and statues in the city escaped +without damage except in the case of the imposing Dewey Monument, in +Union Square Park, which suffered what appears to be a minor injury. + +In this connection an incident of extraordinary character is narrated. +Among the statues on the buildings of the Leland Stanford, Jr., +University, all of which were overthrown, was a marble statue of Carrara +in a niche on the building devoted to zoology and physiology. This in +falling broke through a hard cement pavement and buried itself in the +ground below, from which it was dug. The singular fact is that when +recovered it proved to be without a crack or scratch. This university +seemed to be a central point in the disturbance, the destruction of +its buildings being almost total, though they had been built with the +especial design of resisting earthquake shocks. + +Such was the general character of the earthquake at San Francisco and in +its vicinity. It may be said farther that all, or very nearly all, the +deaths and injuries were due to it directly or indirectly, even those +who perished by fire owing their deaths to the fact of their being +pinned in buildings ruined by the earthquake shock, while others were +killed by falling walls weakened by the same cause. + +On the night of April 23d the earth tremor returned with a slight shock, +only sufficient to cause a temporary alarm. On the afternoon of the 25th +came another and severer one, strong enough to shake down some tottering +walls and add another to the list of victims. This was a woman named +Annie Whitaker, who was at work in the kitchen of her home at the time. +The chimney, which had been weakened by the great shock, now fell, +crashing through the roof and fracturing her skull. Thus the earth +powers claimed a final human sacrifice before their dread visitation +ended. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +The Demon of Fire Invades the Stricken City. + + +The terrors of the earthquake are momentary. One fierce, levelling shock +and usually all is over. The torment within the earth has passed on and +the awakened forces of the earth’s crust sink into rest again, after +having shaken the surface for many leagues. Rarely does the dread agent +of ruin leave behind it such a terrible follower to complete its work +as was the case in the doomed city of San Francisco. All seemed to lead +towards such a carnival of ruin as the earth has rarely seen. The demon +of fire followed close upon the heels of the unseen fiend of the earth’s +hidden caverns, and ran red-handed through the metropolis of the West, +kindling a thousand unhurt buildings, while the horror-stricken people +stood aghast in terror, as helpless to combat this new enemy as they +were to check the ravages of the earthquake itself. + +Why not quench the fire at its start with water? Alas! there was no +water, and this expedient was a hopeless one. The iron mains which +carried the precious fluid under the city streets were broken or injured +so that no quenching streams were to be had. In some cases the engine +houses had been so damaged that the fire-fighting apparatus could not be +taken out, though even if it had it would have been useless. A sweeping +conflagration and not an ounce of water to throw upon it! The situation +of the people was a maddening one. They were forced helplessly and +hopelessly to gaze upon the destruction of their all, and it is no +marvel if many of them grew frantic and lost their reason at the sight. +Thousands gathered and looked on in blank and pitiful misery, their +strong hands, their iron wills of no avail, while the red-lipped fire +devoured the hopes of their lives. + +In a dozen, a hundred, places the flames shot up redly. Huge, strong +buildings which the earthquake had spared fell an unresisting prey +to the flames. The great, iron-bound, towering Spreckles building, +a steeple-like structure, of eighteen stories in height, the tallest +skyscraper in the city, had resisted the earthquake and remained proudly +erect. But now the flames gathered round and assailed it. From both +sides came their attack. A broad district near by, containing many large +hotels and lodging houses, was being fiercely burnt out, and soon the +windows of the lofty building cracked and splintered, the flames shot +triumphantly within, and almost in an instant the vast interior was a +seething furnace, the wild flames rushing and leaping within until only +the blackened walls remained. + + +THE RESISTLESS MARCH OF THE FLAMES. + + +This was the region of the newspaper offices, and they quickly +succumbed. The Examiner, standing across Third Street from Spreckles, +collapsed from the earthquake shock. A flimsy edifice, it had long been +looked upon as dangerous. Another building in the rear of this alone +resisted both flames and smoke. Across Market Street from the Examiner +stood the Chronicle building, a dozen stories high. Firmly built, it +had borne the earthquake assault unharmed, but the flames were an enemy +against which it had no defense, and it was quickly added to the victims +of the fire-fiend. + +Farther down Market Street, the chief business thoroughfare of the city, +stood that great caravansary, the Palace Hotel, which for thirty years +had been a favorite hostelry, housing the bulk of the visitors to the +Californian metropolis. Its time had come. Doom hovered over it. Its +guests had fled in good season, as they saw the irresistible approach of +the conquering flames. Soon it was ablaze; quickly from every window of +its broad front the tongues of flame curled hotly in the air; it became +a thrice-heated furnace, like so many of the neighboring structures, +adding its quota to the vast cloud of smoke that hung over the burning +city, and rapidly sinking in red ruin to the earth. + +All day Wednesday the fire spread unchecked, all efforts to stay its +devouring fury proving futile. In the business section of the city +everything was in ruins. Not a business house was left standing. +Theatres crumbled into smouldering heaps. Factories and commission +houses sank to red ruin before the devouring flames. The scene was like +that of ancient Babylon in its fall, or old Rome when set on fire by +Nero’s command, as tradition tells. In modern times there has been +nothing to equal it except the conflagration at Chicago, when the flames +swept to ruin that queen city of the Great Lakes. + +When night fell and the sun withdrew his beams the spectacle was one at +once magnificent and awe-inspiring. The city resembled one vast blazing +furnace. Looking over it from a high hill in the western section, the +flames could be seen ascending skyward for miles upon miles, while in +the midst of the red spirals of flame could be seen at intervals the +black skeletons and falling towers of doomed buildings. Above all +this hung a dense pall of smoke, showing lurid where the flames were +reflected from its dark and threatening surface. To those nearer the +scene presented many pathetic and distressing features, the fire glare +throwing weird shadows over the worn and panic-stricken faces of the +woe-begone fugitives, driven from their homes and wandering the streets +in helpless misery. Many of them lay sleeping on piles of blankets and +clothing which they had brought with them, or on the hard sidewalks, or +the grass of the open parks. + + +THE CARE OF THE WOUNDED. + + +Through all the streets ambulances and express wagons were hurrying, +carrying dead and injured to morgues and hospitals. But these refuges +for the wounded or receptacles for the dead were no safer than the +remainder of the city. In the morgue at the Hall of Justice fifty bodies +lay, but the approach of the flames rendered it necessary to remove +to Jackson Square these mutilated remnants of what had once been men. +Hospitals were also abandoned at intervals, doctors and nurses being +forced to remove their patients in haste from the approaching flames. + +There is an open park opposite City Hall. Here the Board of Supervisors +met, and, with fifty substantial citizens who joined them, formed a +Committee of Safety, to take in hand the direction of affairs and +to seek safe quarters for the dying and the dead. Strangely enough, +Mechanics’ Pavilion, opposite City Hall, had escaped injury from the +earthquake, though it was only a wooden building. It had the largest +floor in San Francisco, and was pressed into service at once. The police +and the troops, working in harmony together, passed the word that the +dead and injured should be brought there, the hospitals and morgue +having become choked, and the order was quickly obeyed, until about +400 of the hurt, many of them terribly mangled, were laid in improvised +cots, attended by all the physicians and trained nurses who could be +obtained. + +The corpses were much fewer, the workers being too busy in fighting the +fire and caring for the wounded to give time and attention as yet to +the dead. But one of the first wagons to arrive brought a whole +family--father, mother and three children--all dead except the baby, +which had a broken arm and a terrible cut across the forehead. They had +been dragged from the ruins of their house on the water front. A large +consignment of bodies, mostly of workingmen, came from a small hotel on +Eddy Street, through the roof of which the upper part of a tall building +next door had fallen, crushing all below. + + +FIRE ATTACKS THE MINT. + + +To return to the story of the conflagration, the escape of the United +States Mint was one of the most remarkable incidents. Within the vaults +of this fine structure was the vast sum of $300,000,000 in gold and +silver coin and a value of $8,000,000 in bullion, and toward this mighty +sum of wealth the flames swept on all sides, as if eager to add the +reservoir of the precious metals to their spoils. The Mint building +passed through the earthquake with little damage, though its big +smokestacks were badly shaken. The fire seemed bent on making it its +prey, every building around it being burned to the ground, and it +remaining the only building for blocks that escaped destruction. + +Its safety was due to the energy and activity of its employees. +Superintendent Leach reached it shortly after the shock and found a +number of men already there, whom he stationed at points of vantage +from roof to basement. The fire apparatus of the Mint was brought into +service and help given by the fire department, and after a period of +strenuous labor the flames were driven back. The peril for a time was +critical, the windows on Mint Avenue taking fire and also those on the +rear three stories, and the flames for a time pouring in and driving +back the workers. The roof also caught fire, but the men within fought +like Titans, and efficient aid was given by a squad of soldiers sent +to them. In the end the fire fiend was vanquished, though considerable +damage was done to the adjusting rooms and the refinery, while the heavy +stone cornice on that side of the building was destroyed. The total loss +to the Mint was later estimated at $15,000. + +Late on Wednesday evening the fire front crept close up to Mechanics’ +Pavilion, where a corps of fifty physicians and numerous nurses were +active in the work of relief to the wounded. Ambulances and automobiles +were busy unloading new patients rescued from the ruins when word came +that the building would have to be vacated in haste. Every available +vehicle was at once pressed into service and the patients removed as +rapidly as possible, being taken to hospitals and private houses in the +safer parts of the city. Hardly had the last of the injured been carried +through the door when the roof was seen to be in a blaze, and shortly +afterward the whole building burst into a whirlwind of flame. + +At midnight the fire was raging and roaring with unslacked rage, and at +dawn of Thursday its fury was undiminished. The work of destruction +was already immense. In much of the Hayes Valley district, south of +McAllister and north of Market Street, the destruction was complete. +From the Mechanics’ Pavilion and St. Nicholas Hotel opposite down to +Oakland Ferry the journey was heartrending, the scene appalling. On each +side was ruin, nothing but ruin, and hillocks of masonry and heaps of +rubbish of every description filled to its middle the city’s greatest +thoroughfare. + +Across an alley from the Post Office stood the Grant Building, one of +the headquarters of the army. Of this only the smoke-darkened walls were +left. On Market Street opposite this building the beautiful front of +the Hibernian Savings Bank, the favorite institution of the middle and +poorer classes, presented a hideous aspect of ruin. At eleven o’clock +of Wednesday night the north side of Market Street stood untouched, and +hopes were entertained that the great Flood, Crocker, Phelan and other +buildings would be spared, but the hunger of the fire fiend was not yet +satiated, and the following day these proud structures had only their +blackened ruins to show. On both sides of Market Street, down to the +ferry, the tale was the same. The handsome and gigantic St. Francis +Hotel, on Powell Street, fronting on Union Square, was left a ruined +shell. This was one of the lofty steel structures that bore unharmed the +earthquake shock, but quickly succumbed to the flames. Among the other +skyscrapers north of Market Street that perished were the fourteen-story +Merchants’ Exchange, and the great Mills Building, occupying almost an +entire block. + +One section of the city that went without pity, as it had long stood +with reprobation, was that group of disreputable buildings known as +Chinatown, the place of residence of many thousands of Celestials. +The flames made their way unchecked in this direction, and by noon on +Thursday the whole section was a raging furnace, the denizens escaping +with what they could carry of their simple possessions. On the farther +western side the flames cut a wide swath to Van Ness Avenue, a wide +thoroughfare, at which it was hoped the march of the fire in this +direction might be checked, especially as the water mains here furnished +a weak supply. + +In the Missouri district, to the south of Market Street, the zone of +ruin extended westward toward the extreme southern portion, but was +checked at Fourteenth and Missouri Streets by the wholesale use of +dynamite. At this point were located the Southern Pacific Hospital, +the St. Francis Hospital and the College of Physicians and Surgeons. +In order to save these institutions, buildings were blown up all around +them, and by noon the danger was averted. It later became necessary to +destroy the Southern Pacific Hospital with dynamite, the patients having +been removed to places of safety. + + +THE PALACES ON NOB’S HILL. + + +In the centre of San Francisco rises the aristocratic elevation known +as Nob’s Hill, on which the early millionaires built their homes, and on +which stood the city’s most palatial residences. It ascends so abruptly +from Kearney Street that it is inaccessible to any kind of vehicle, the +slope being at any angle little short of forty-five degrees. It is as +steep on the south side, and the only approach by carriage is from the +north. To this hill is due the pioneer cable railway, built in the early +‘70’s. + +Here the “big four” of the railroad magnates--Stanford, Hopkins, +Huntington and Crocker--had put millions in their mansions, the Mark +Hopkins residence being said to have cost $2,500,000. These men are all +dead, and the last named edifice has been converted into the Hopkins Art +Institute, and at the time of the fire was well filled with costly art +treasures. The Stanford Museum, which also contains valuable objects of +art, is now the property of the Leland Stanford University. The +Flood mansion, which cost more than $1,000,000, was one of the showy +residences on this hill, west of it being the Huntington home and +farther west the Crocker residence, with its broad lawns and magnificent +stables. Many other beautiful and costly houses stood on this hill, and +opposite the Stanford and Hopkins edifices the great Fairmount Hotel had +for two years past been in process of construction and was practically +completed. On the northeastern slope of this hill stood the famous +Chinatown, through which it was necessary to pass to ascend Nob’s Hill +from the principal section of the wholesale district. + +This region of palaces was the next to fall a prey to the insatiable +flames. Early Thursday morning a change in the wind sent the fire +westward, eating its way from the water front north of Market Street +toward Nob’s Hill. Steadily but surely it climbed the slope, and the +Stanford and Hopkins edifices fell victims to its fury. Others of the +palaces of millionairedom followed. Huge clouds of smoke enveloped the +beautiful white stone Fairmount Hotel, and there was a general feeling +of horror when this magnificent structure seemed doomed. To it the +Committee of Safety had retreated, but the flames from the burning +buildings opposite reached it, and the committee once more migrated in +search of safe quarters. Fortunately, it escaped with little damage, its +walls remaining intact and much of the interior being left in a state +of preservation, warranting its managers to offer space within it to the +committees whose aim it was to help the homeless or to store supplies. +Some of the woodwork of the building was destroyed by the fire, but +the structure was in such good condition that work on it was quickly +resumed, with the statement that its completion would not be delayed +more than three months beyond the date set, which was November, 1906. + +In the district extending northwestwardly from Kearney Street and +Montgomery Avenue, untouched during the first day, the fire spread +freely on the second. This district embraces the Latin quarter, +peopled by various nationalities, the houses being of the flimsiest +construction. Once it had gained a foothold there, the fire swept onward +as though making its way through a forest in the driest summer season. + +An apochryphal incident is told of the fire in this quarter, which may +be repeated as one example of the fables set afloat. It is stated that +water to fight the fire here was sadly lacking, the only available +supply being from an old well. At a critical moment the pump sucked +dry, the water in the well being exhausted. The residents were not yet +conquered. Some of them threw open their cellar doors and, calling for +assistance, began to roll out barrels of red wine. Barrel after barrel +appeared, until fully five hundred gallons were ready for use. Then the +barrel heads were smashed in and the bucket brigade turned from water to +wine. Sacks were dipped in the wine and used for fighting the fire. Beds +were stripped of their blankets and these soaked in the wine and hung +over exposed portions of the cottages, while men on the roofs drenched +the shingles and sides of the houses with wine. The postscript to this +queer story is that the wine won and the firefighters saved their homes. +The story is worth retelling, though it may be added that wine, if +it contained much alcohol, would serve as a feeder rather than as an +extinguisher of flame. + +A striking description of the aspect of the city on that terrible +Wednesday is told by Jerome B. Clark, whose home was in Berkeley, but +who did business in San Francisco. He left for the city early Wednesday +morning, after a minor shake-up at home, which he thus describes: + + +A VIVID FIRE PICTURE. + + +“I was asleep and was awakened by the house rocking. With the exception +of water in vases, and milk in pans being spilled, and one of our +chimneys badly cracked, we escaped with nothing but a bad scare, but I +can assure you it was a terrific and terrifying experience to feel that +old house rocking, jolting and jumping under us, with the most terrible +roar, dull, deep and nerve-racking. It calmed down after that and we +went back to bed, only to get up at six o’clock to find that neighbors +had suffered by having vases knocked from tables, bric-a-brac knocked +around, tiles knocked out of grates and scarcely a chimney left +standing. We thought that we had had the worst of it, so I started over +to the city as usual, reaching there about eight o’clock, and it is just +impossible to describe the scenes that met my eyes. + +“In every direction from the ferry building flames were seething, and +as I stood there, a five-story building half a block away fell with a +crash, and the flames swept clear across Market Street and caught a +new fireproof building recently erected. The streets in places had sunk +three or four feet, in others great humps had appeared four or five feet +high. The street car tracks were bent and twisted out of shape. Electric +wires lay in every direction. Streets on all sides were filled with +brick and mortar, buildings either completely collapsed or brick fronts +had just dropped completely off. Wagons with horses hitched to them, +drivers and all, lying on the streets, all dead, struck and killed by +the falling bricks, these mostly the wagons of the produce dealers, +who do the greater part of their work at that hour of the morning. +Warehouses and large wholesale houses of all descriptions either down, +or walls bulging, or else twisted, buildings moved bodily two or three +feet out of a line and still standing with walls all cracked. + +“The Call building, a twelve-story skyscraper, stood, and looked all +right at first glance, but had moved at the base two feet at one end out +into the sidewalk, and the elevators refused to work, all the interior +being just twisted out of shape. It afterward burned as I watched it. I +worked my way in from the ferry, climbing over piles of brick and mortar +and keeping to the centre of the street and avoiding live wires that +lay around on every side, trying to get to my office. I got within two +blocks of it and was stopped by the police on account of falling walls. +I saw that the block in which I was located was on fire, and seemed +doomed, so turned back and went up into the city. + +“Not knowing San Francisco, you would not know the various buildings, +but fires were blazing in all directions, and all of the finest and best +of the office and business buildings were either burning or surrounded. +They pumped water from the bay, but the fire was soon too far away from +the water front to make any efforts in this direction of much avail. +The water mains had been broken by the earthquake, and so there was no +supply for the fire engines and they were helpless. The only way out +of it was to dynamite, and I saw some of the finest and most beautiful +buildings in the city, new modern palaces, blown to atoms. First they +blew up one or two buildings at a time. Finding that of no avail, they +took half a block; that was no use; then they took a block; but in spite +of them all the fire kept on spreading. + +“The City Hall, which, while old, was quite a magnificent building, +occupying a large square block of land, was completely wrecked by the +earthquake, and to look upon reminded one of the pictures of ancient +ruins of Rome or Athens. The Palace Hotel stood for a long time after +everything near it had gone, but finally went up in smoke as the rest. +You could not look in any direction in the city but what mass after mass +of flame stared you in the face. To get about one had to dodge from one +street to another, back and forth in zigzag fashion, and half an hour +after going through a street, it would be impassable. One after another +of the magnificent business blocks went down. The newer buildings seemed +to have withstood the shock better than any others, except well-built +frame buildings. The former lost some of the outside shell, but the +frame stood all right, and in some cases after fire had eaten them all +to pieces, the steel skeleton, although badly twisted and warped, still +stood. + +“When I finally left the city, it was all in flames as far as Eighth +Street, which is about a mile and a quarter or half from the water +front. I had to walk at least two miles around in order to get to the +ferry building, and when I got there you could see no buildings standing +in any direction. Nearly all the docks caved in or sheds were knocked +down, and all the streets along the water front were a mass of seams, +upheavals and depressions, car tracks twisted in all shapes. Cars that +had stood on sidings were all in ashes and still burning.” + +Wednesday’s conflagration continued unabated throughout Thursday, and it +was not until late on Friday that the fire-fighters got it safely +under control. They worked like heroes, struggling almost without rest, +keeping up the nearly hopeless conflict until they fairly fell in their +tracks from fatigue. Handicapped by the lack of water, they in one +case brought it from the bay through lines of hose well on to a mile +in length. Yet despite all they could do block after block of San +Francisco’s greatest buildings succumbed to the flames and sank in red +ruin before their eyes. + + +THE LANDMARKS CONSUMED. + + +On all sides famous landmarks yielded to the fury of the flames. +For three miles along the water front the ground was swept clean +of buildings, the blackened beams and great skeletons of factories, +warehouses and business edifices standing silhouetted against a +background of flames, while the whole commercial and office quarter of +Market Street suffered a similar fate. We may briefly instance some of +these victims of the flames. + +Among them were the Occidental Hotel, on Montgomery Street, for years +the headquarters for army officers; the old Lick House, built by James +Lick, the philanthropist; the California Hotel and Theatre, on Bush +Street; and of theatres, the Orpheum, the Alcazar, the Majestic, the +Columbia, the Magic, the Central, Fisher’s and the Grand Opera House, on +Missouri Street, where the Conried Opera Company had just opened for a +two weeks’ opera season. + +The banks that fell were numerous, including the Nevada National Bank, +the California, the Canadian Bank of Commerce, the First National, the +London and San Francisco, the London, Paris and American, the Bank +of British North America, the German-American Savings Bank and the +Crocker-Woolworth Bank building. A large number of splendid apartment +houses were also destroyed, and the tide of destruction swept away a +host of noble buildings far too numerous to mention. + +At Post Street and Grant Avenue stood the Bohemian Club, one of the +widest known social organizations in the world. Its membership included +many men famous in art, literature and commerce. Its rooms were +decorated with the works of members, many of whose names are known +wherever paintings are discussed and many of them priceless in their +associations. Most of these were saved. There were on special exhibition +in the “Jinks” room of the Bohemian Club a dozen paintings by old +masters, including a Rembrandt, a Diaz, a Murillo and others, probably +worth $100,000. These paintings were lost with the building, which went +down in the flames. + +One of the great losses was that of St. Ignatius’ Church and College, at +Van Ness Avenue and Hayes Street, the greatest Jesuitical institution +in the west, which cost a couple of millions of dollars. The Merchants’ +Exchange building, a twelve-story structure, eleven of whose floors were +occupied as offices by the Southern Pacific Railroad Company, was added +to the sum of losses. + + +THE FIRE UNDER CONTROL. + + +For three long days the terrible fire fiend kept up his work, and the +fight went on until late on Friday, when the sweep of the flames was at +length checked and the fire brought under control. The principal agent +in this victory was dynamite, which was freely used. To its work +a separate chapter will be devoted. When at length the area of the +conflagration was limited the wealthiest part of the city lay in embers +and ashes, one of the principal localities to escape being Pacific +Heights, a mile west from Nob’s Hill, on which stood many costly homes +of recent construction. + +On Friday night the fire that had worked its way from Nob’s Hill to +North Beach Street, sweeping that quarter clean of buildings, veered +before a fierce wind and made its way southerly to the great sea wall, +with its docks and grain warehouses. The flames reached the tanks of the +San Francisco Gas Company, which had previously been pumped out, and on +Saturday morning the grain sheds on the water front, about half a mile +north of the ferry station, were fiercely burning. But the fire here was +confined to a small area, and, with the work of fireboats in the bay and +of the firemen on shore, who used salt water pumped into their engines, +it was prevented from reaching the ferry building and the docks in that +vicinity. + +The buildings on a high slope between Van Ness and Polk Streets, Union +and Filbert Streets, were blazing fiercely, fanned by a high wind, but +the blocks here were so thinly settled that the fire had little +chance of spreading widely from this point. In fact, it was at length +practically under control, and the entire western addition of the city +west of Van Ness Avenue was safe from the flames. The great struggle was +fairly at an end, and the brave force of workers were at length given +some respite from their strenuous labors. + +During the height of the struggle and the days of exhaustion and +depression that followed, exaggerated accounts of the losses and of the +area swept by the flames were current, some estimate making the extent +of the fire fifteen square miles out of the total of twenty-five square +miles of the city’s area. It was not until Friday, the 27th, that an +official survey of the burned district, made by City Surveyor Woodward, +was completed, and the total area burned over found to be 2,500 acres, a +trifle less than four square miles. This, however, embraced the heart of +the business section and many of the principal residence streets, much +of the saved area being occupied by the dwellings of the poorer people, +so that the money loss was immensely greater than the percentage of +ground burned over would indicate. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Fighting the Flames With Dynamite. + + +Shaken by earthquake, swept by flames, the water supply cut off by the +breaking of the mains, the authorities of the doomed city for a time +stood appalled. What could be done to stay the fierce march of the +flames which were sweeping resistlessly over palace and hovel alike, +over stately hall and miserable hut? Water was not to be had; what was +to take its place? Nothing remained but to meet ruin with ruin, to make +a desert in the path of the fire and thus seek to stop its march. They +had dynamite, gunpowder and other explosives, and in the frightful +exigency there was nothing else to be used. Only for a brief interval +did the authorities yield to the general feeling of helplessness. Then +they aroused themselves to the demands of the occasion and prepared to +do all in the power of man in the effort to arrest the conflagration. + +While the soldiers under General Funston took military charge of the +city, squads of cavalry and troops of infantry patrolling the streets +and guarding the sections that had not yet been touched by the flames, +Mayor Schmitz and Chief of Police Dinan sprang into the breach and +prepared to make a desperate charge against the platoons of the fire. +This was not all that was needed to be done. From the “Barbary Coast,” + as the resort of the vicious and criminal classes was called, hordes of +wretches poured out as soon as night fell, seeking to slip through the +guards and loot stores and rob the dead in the burning section. Orders +were given to the soldiers to kill all who were engaged in such work, +and these orders were carried out. An associated Press reporter saw +three of these thieves shot and fatally wounded, and doubtless others of +them were similarly dealt with elsewhere. + +A band of fire-fighters was quickly organized by the Mayor and Chief +of Police, and the devoted firemen put themselves in the face of the +flames, determined to do their utmost to stay them in their course. Cut +off from the use of their accustomed engines and water streams, which +might have been effective if brought into play at the beginning of the +struggle, there was nothing to work with but the dynamite cartridge and +the gunpowder mine, and they set bravely to work to do what they could +with these. On every side the roar of explosions could be heard, and +the crash of falling walls came to the ear, while people were forced +to leave buildings which still stood, but which it was decided must be +felled. Frequently a crash of stone and brick, followed by a cloud of +dust, gave warning to pedestrians that destruction was going on in the +forefront of the flames, and that travel in such localities was unsafe. + + +FIGHTING THE FLAMES. + + +All through the night of Wednesday and the morning of Thursday this +work went on, hopelessly but resolutely. During the following day blasts +could be heard in different sections at intervals of a few minutes, and +buildings not destroyed by fire were blown to atoms, but over the gaps +jumped the live flames, and the disheartened fire-fighters were driven +back step by step; but they continued the work with little regard for +their own safety and with unflinching desperation. + +One instance of the peril they ran may be given. Lieutenant Charles +O. Pulis, commanding the Twenty-fourth Company of Light Artillery, +had placed a heavy charge of dynamite in a building at Sixth and Jesse +Streets. For some reason it did not explode, and he returned to relight +the fuse, thinking it had become extinguished. While he was in the +building the explosion took place, and he received injuries that seemed +likely to prove fatal, his skull being fractured and several bones +broken, while he was injured internally. In the early morning, when the +fire reached the municipal building on Portsmouth Square, the nurses, +with the aid of soldiers, got out fifty bodies which were in the +temporary morgue and a number of patients from the receiving hospital. +Just after they reached the street with their gruesome charge a building +was blown up, and the flying bricks and splinters came falling upon +them. The nurses fortunately escaped harm, but several of the +soldiers were hurt, and had to be taken with the other patients to the +out-of-doors Presidio hospital. + +The Southern Pacific Hospital, at Fourteenth and Missouri Streets, was +among the buildings destroyed by dynamite, the patients having been +removed to places of safety, and the Linda Vista and the Pleasanton, +two large family hotels on Jones Street, in the better part of the +city, were also among those blown up to stay the progress of the +conflagration. + + +THE STRUGGLE AGAINST THE FIRE. + + +The fire had continued to creep onward and upward until it reached the +summit of Nob Hill, a district of splendid residences, and threatened +the handsome Fairmount Hotel, then the headquarters of the Municipal +Council, acting as a Committee of Public Safety. As day broke the flames +seized upon this beautiful structure, and the Council was forced to +retreat to new quarters. They finally met in the North End Police +Station, on Sacramento Street, and there entered actively upon their +duties of seeking to check the progress of the flames, maintain order +in the city and control and direct the host of fugitives, many of whom, +still in a state of semi-panic, were moving helplessly to and fro and +sadly needed wise counsels and a helping hand. + +The fire-fighters meanwhile kept up their indefatigable work under the +direction of the Mayor and the chief of their department. The engines +almost from the start had proved useless from lack of water, and were +either abandoned or moved to the outlying districts, in the vain hope +that the water mains might be repaired in time to permit of a final +stand against the whirlwind march of the flames. The cloud of despair +grew darker still as the report spread that the city’s supply of +dynamite had given out. + +“No more dynamite! No more dynamite!” screamed a fireman as he ran up +Ellis Street past the doomed Flood building at two o’clock on Friday +morning, tears standing in his smoke-smirched eyes. + +“No more dynamite! O God! no more dynamite! We are lost!” moaned the +throng that heard his despairing words. + + +A NEW SUPPLY OF EXPLOSIVES. + + +So, at that hour, the supply of the explosive exhausted, and not a +dozen streams of water being thrown in the entire fire zone, the stunned +firemen and the stupefied people stood helpless with their eyes fixed in +despair upon the swiftly creeping flames. + +Had all been like these the entire city would have been doomed, but +there were those at the head of affairs who never for a moment gave +up their resolution. Dynamite and giant powder were to be had in +the Presidio military reservation, and a requisition upon the army +authorities was made. The louder reverberations as the day advanced and +night came on showed that a fresh supply had been obtained, and that a +new and determined campaign against the conflagration had been entered +upon. Hitherto much of the work had been ignorantly and carelessly done, +and by the hasty and premature use of explosives more harm than good had +been occasioned. + +As the fire continued to spread in spite of the heroic work of the +fighting corps, the Committee of Safety called a meeting at noon on +Friday and decided to blow up all the residences on the east side of Van +Ness Avenue, between Golden Gate and Pacific Avenues, a distance of one +mile. Van Ness Avenue is one of the most fashionable streets of the city +and has a width of 125 feet, a fact which led to the idea that a safety +line might be made here too broad for the flames to cross. + +The firemen, therefore, although exhausted from over twenty-four hours’ +work and lack of food, determined to make a desperate stand at this +point. They declared that should the fire cross Van Ness Avenue and the +wind continue its earlier direction toward the west, the destruction of +San Francisco would be virtually complete. The district west of Van +Ness Avenue and north of McAllister constitutes the finest part of the +metropolis. Here are located all of the finer homes of the well-to-do +and wealthier classes, and the resolution to destroy them was the last +resort of desperation. + +Hundreds of police, regiments of soldiers and scores of volunteers +were sent into the doomed district to warn the people to flee. They +heroically responded to the demand of law and went bravely on their way, +leaving their loved homes and trudging painfully over the pavements with +the little they could carry away of their treasured possessions. + +The reply of a grizzled fire engineer standing at O’Farrell Street and +Van Ness Avenue, beside a blackened engine, may not have been as terse +as that of Hugo’s guardsman at Waterloo, but the pathos of it must have +been as great. In answer to the question of what they proposed to do, he +said: + +“We are waiting for it to come. When it gets here we will make one more +stand. If it crosses Van Ness Avenue the city is gone.” + + +THE SAVERS OF THE CITY. + + +Yet the work now to be done was much too important to be left to the +hands of untrained volunteers. Skilled engineers were needed, men used +to the scientific handling of explosives, and it was men of this kind +who finally saved what is left to-day of the city. Three men saved San +Francisco, so far as any San Francisco existed after the fire had worked +its will, these three constituting the dynamite squad who faced and +defied the demon at Van Ness Avenue. + +When the burning city seemed doomed and the flames lit the sky farther +and farther to the west, Admiral McCalla sent a trio of his most trusted +men from Mare Island with orders to check the conflagration at any cost +of property. With them they brought a ton and a half of guncotton. The +terrific power of the explosive was equal to the maniac determination +of the fire. Captain MacBride was in charge of the squad, Chief Gunner +Adamson placed the charges and the third gunner set them off. + +Stationing themselves on Van Ness Avenue, which the conflagration was +approaching with leaps and bounds from the burning business section of +the city, they went systematically to work, and when they had ended a +broad open space, occupied only by the dismantled ruins of buildings, +remained of what had been a long row of handsome and costly residences, +which, with all their treasures of furniture and articles of decoration, +had been consigned to hideous ruin. + +The thunderous detonations, to which the terrified city listened all +that dreadful Friday night, meant much to those whose ears were deafened +by them. A million dollars’ worth of property, noble residences +and worthless shacks alike, were blown to drifting dust, but that +destruction broke the fire and sent the raging flames back over their +own charred path. The whole east side of Van Ness Avenue, from the +Golden Gate to Greenwich, a distance of twenty-two blocks, or a mile and +a half, was dynamited a block deep, though most of the structures as yet +had stood untouched by spark or cinder. Not one charge failed. Not one +building stood upon its foundation. + +Unless some second malicious miracle of nature should reverse the +direction of the west wind, by nine o’clock it was felt that the +populous district to the west, blocked with fleeing refugees and +unilluminated except by the disastrous glare on the water front, was +safe. Every pound of guncotton did its work, and though the ruins +burned, it was but feebly. From Golden Gate Avenue north the fire +crossed the wide street in but one place. That was at the Claus +Spreckels place, on the corner of California Street. + +There the flames were writhing up the walls before the dynamiters could +reach the spot. Yet they made their way to the foundations, carrying +their explosives, despite the furnace-like heat. The charge had to be +placed so swiftly and the fuse lit in such a hurry that the explosion +was not quite successful from the trained viewpoint of the gunners. But +though the walls still stood, it was only an empty victory for the fire, +as bare brick and smoking ruins are poor food for flames. + +Captain MacBride’s dynamiting squad had realized that a stand was +hopeless except on Van Ness Avenue, their decision thus coinciding with +that of the authorities. They could have forced their explosives farther +in the burning section, but not a pound of guncotton could be or was +wasted. The ruined blocks of the wide thoroughfare formed a trench +through the clustered structures that the conflagration, wild as it was, +could not leap. Engines pumping brine through Fort Mason from the bay +completed the little work that the guncotton had left, but for three +days the haggard-eyed firemen guarded the flickering ruins. + +The desolate waste straight through the heart of the city remained +a mute witness to the most heroic and effective work of the whole +calamity. Three men did this, and when their work was over and what +stood of the city rested quietly for the first time, they departed as +modestly as they had come. They were ordered to save San Francisco, +and they obeyed orders, and Captain MacBride and his two gunners made +history on that dreadful night. + +They stayed the march of the conflagration at that critical point, +leaving it no channel to spread except along the wharf region, in which +its final force was spent. One side of Van Ness Avenue was gone; the +other remained, the fire leaping the broad open space only feebly in a +few places, where it was easily extinguished. + +In this connection it is well to put on record an interesting +circumstance. This is that there is one place within pistol shot of San +Francisco that the earthquake did not touch, that did not lose a chimney +or feel a tremor. That spot is Alcatraz Island. Despite the fact that +the island is covered with brick buildings, brick forts and brick +chimneys, not a brick was loosened nor a crack made nor a quiver felt. +When the scientist comes to write he will have his hands full explaining +why Alcatraz did not have any physical knowledge of the event. It was as +if New York were to be shaken to its foundation, and Governor’s Island, +quietly pursuing its military routine, should escape without a qualm. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Reign of Destruction and Devastation + + +Rarely, in the whole history of mankind, has a great city been +overwhelmed by destruction so suddenly and awfully as was San Francisco. +One minute its inhabitants slept in seeming safety and security. Another +minute passed and the whole great city seemed tumbling around them, +while sights of terror met the eyes of the awakened multitude and sounds +of horror came to their ears. The roar of destruction filled the air as +the solid crust of the earth lifted and fell and the rocks rose and sank +in billowing waves like those of the open sea. + +Not all, it is true, were asleep. There was the corps of night workers, +whose duties keep them abroad till day dawns. There were those whose +work calls them from their homes in the early morn. People of this kind +were in the streets and saw the advent of the reign of devastation in +its full extent. From the story of one of these, P. Barrett, an editor +on the Examiner, we select a thrilling account of his experience on that +morning of awe. + + +AN EDITOR’S NARRATIVE. + + +“I have seen this whole, great horror. I stood with two other members +of the Examiner staff on the corner of Market Street, waiting for a car. +Newspaper duties had kept us working until five o’clock in the morning. +Sunlight was coming out of the early morning mist. It spread its +brightness on the roofs of the skyscrapers, on the domes and spires of +churches, and blazed along up the wide street with its countless banks +and stores, its restaurants and cafes. In the early morning the city was +almost noiseless. Occasionally a newspaper wagon clattered up the street +or a milk wagon rumbled along. One of my companions had told a funny +story. We were laughing at it. We stopped--the laugh unfinished on our +lips. + +“Of a sudden we had found ourselves staggering and reeling. It was as if +the earth was slipping gently from under our feet. Then came a sickening +swaying of the earth that threw us flat upon our faces. We struggled in +the street. We could not get on our feet. + +“I looked in a dazed fashion around me. I saw for an instant the big +buildings in what looked like a crazy dance. Then it seemed as though my +head were split with the roar that crashed into my ears. Big buildings +were crumbling as one might crush a biscuit in one’s hand. Great gray +clouds of dust shot up with flying timbers, and storms of masonry rained +into the street. Wild, high jangles of smashing glass cut a sharp note +into the frightful roaring. Ahead of me a great cornice crushed a man as +if he were a maggot--a laborer in overalls on his way to the Union Iron +Works, with a dinner pail on his arm. + +“Everywhere men were on all fours in the street, like crawling bugs. +Still the sickening, dreadful swaying of the earth continued. It seemed +a quarter of an hour before it stopped. As a matter of fact, it lasted +about three minutes. Footing grew firm again, but hardly were we on our +feet before we were sent reeling again by repeated shocks, but they were +milder. Clinging to something, one could stand. + +“The dust clouds were gone. It was quite dark, like twilight. But I saw +trolley tracks uprooted, twisted fantastically. I saw wide wounds in +the street. Water flooded out of one. A deadly odor of gas from a broken +main swept out of the other. Telegraph poles were rocked like matches. +A wild tangle of wires was in the street. Some of the wires wriggled and +shot blue sparks. + +“From the south of us, faint, but all too clear, came a horrible chorus +of human cries of agony. Down there in a ramshackle section of the city +the wretched houses had fallen in upon the sleeping families. Down there +throughout the day a fire burned the great part of whose fuel it is too +gruesome a thing to contemplate. + +“That was what came next--the fire. It shot up everywhere. The fierce +wave of destruction had carried a flaming torch with it--agony, death +and a flaming torch. It was just as if some fire demon was rushing from +place to place with such a torch.” + + +WRECK AND RUIN. + + +The magnitude of the calamity became fully apparent after the sun had +risen and began to shine warmly and brightly from the east over the +ruined city. Old Sol, who had risen and looked down upon this city for +thousands of times, had never before seen such a spectacle as that of +this fateful morning. Where once rose noble buildings were now to be +seen cracked and tottering walls, fallen chimneys, here and there fallen +heaps of brick and mortar, and out of and above all the red light of +the mounting flames. From the middle of the city’s greatest thoroughfare +ruin, only ruin, was to be seen on all sides. To the south, in hundreds +of blocks, hardly a building had escaped unscathed. The cracked walls of +the new Post Office showed the rending power of the earthquake. A part +of the splendid and costly City Hall collapsed, the roof falling to the +courtyard and the smaller towers tumbling down. Some of the wharves, +laden with goods of every sort, slid into the bay. With them went +thousands of tons of coal. On the harbor front the earth sank from six +to eight inches, and great cracks opened in the streets. + +San Francisco’s famous Chinatown, the greatest settlement of the +Celestials on this continent, went down like a house of cards. When the +earthquake had passed this den of squalor and infamy was no more. The +Chinese theatres and joss-houses tumbled into ruins, rookery after +rookery collapsed, and hundreds of their inhabitants were buried alive. +Panic reigned supreme among the fugitives, who filled the streets in +frightened multitudes, dragging from the wreck whatever they could save +of their treasured possessions. Much the same was the case with the +Japanese quarter, which fire quickly invaded, the people fleeing in +terror, carrying on their backs what few of their household effects they +were able to rescue. + +As for the people of Chinatown, however, no one knows or will ever know +the extent of the dread fate that overcame them, for no one knows +the secrets of that dark abode of infamy and crime, whose inhabitants +burrowed underground like so many ants; and hid their secrets deep in +the earth. + + +THE RUIN OF CHINATOWN. + + +W. W. Overton, of Los Angeles, thus describes the Chinatown dens and the +revelations made by the earthquake and the flames: + +“Strange is the scene where San Francisco’s Chinatown stood. No heap of +smoking ruins marks the site of the wooden warrens where the Orientals +dwelt in thousands. Only a cavern remains, pitted with deep holes and +lined with dark passageways, from whose depths come smoke wreaths. White +men never knew the depth of Chinatown’s underground city. Many had gone +beneath the street level two and three stories, but now that the place +had been unmasked, men may see where its inner secrets lay. In places +one can see passages a hundred feet deep. + +“The fire swept this Mongolian quarter clean. It left no shred of the +painted wooden fabric. It ate down to the bare ground, and this lies +stark, for the breezes have taken away the light ashes. Joss houses +and mission schools, groceries and opium dens, gambling resorts and +theatres, all of them went. These buildings blazed up like tissue paper. + +“From this place I saw hundreds of crazed yellow men flee. In their arms +they bore opium pipes, money bags, silks and children. Beside them ran +the trousered women and some hobbled painfully. These were the men and +women of the surface. Far beneath the street levels in those cellars and +passageways were other lives. Women, who never saw the day from their +darkened prisons, and their blinking jailors were caught and eaten by +the flames.” + +Devastation spread widely on all sides, ruining the homes of the rich as +well as of the poor, of Americans as well as of Europeans and Asiatics, +the marts of trade, the haunts of pleasure, the realms of science and +art, the resorts of thousands of the gay population of the Golden State +metropolis. To attempt to tell the whole story of destruction and ruin +would be to describe all for which San Francisco stood. Science +suffered in the loss of the San Francisco Academy of Sciences, which was +destroyed with its invaluable contents. This building, erected fifteen +years ago at a cost of $500,000, was a seven-story building with a rich +collection of objects of science. Much of the academy’s contents can +never be replaced. It represented the work of many years. There was a +rare collection of Pacific Sea birds which was the most valuable of its +kind in the world. In fact, the entire collection of birds ranked very +high, was visited by ornithologists from every country, and was the +pride of the city. The academy was founded in 1850, James Lick, the same +man who endowed the Lick Observatory, giving it $1,000,000, so it was on +a prosperous footing. It will take many years of active labor to replace +the losses of an hour or two of the reign of fire in this institution, +while much that it held is gone beyond restoration. + + +LOSS TO ART AND SCIENCE. + + +Art suffered as severely as science, the valuable collections in private +and public buildings being nearly all destroyed. We have spoken of the +rare paintings burned in the Bohemian Club building. The collections on +Nob’s Hill suffered as severely. When the mansions here, the Fairmount +Hotel and Mark Hopkins Institute were approached by the flames, many +attempts were made to remove some of the priceless works of art from the +buildings. A crowd of soldiers was sent to the Flood and the Huntington +mansions and the Hopkins Institute to rescue the paintings. From +the Huntington home and the Flood mansion canvases were cut from the +framework with knives. The collections in the three buildings, valued in +the hundreds of thousands, in great part were destroyed, few being saved +from the ravages of the fire. + +The destruction of the libraries, with their valuable collections of +books, was also a very serious loss to the city and its people. Of these +there were nine of some prominence, the Sutro Library containing many +rare books among its 200,000 volumes, while that of the Mechanics +Institute possessed property valued at $2,000,000. The Public Library +occupied a part of the City Hall, the new building proposed by the city, +with aid to the extent of $750,000 by Andrew Carnegie, being fortunately +still in embryo. + +In the burning of the banks the losses were limited to the buildings, +their money and other valuables being securely locked in fireproof +vaults. But these became so heated by the flames that it was necessary +to leave them to a gradual cooling for days, during which their +treasures were unavailable, and those with deposits, small or large, +were obliged to depend on the benevolence of the nation for food, such +wealth as was left to them being locked up beyond their reach. It +was the same with the United States Sub-Treasury, which was entirely +destroyed by fire, its vaults, which contained all the cash on hand, +being alone preserved. Guards were put over these to protect their +contents against possible loss by theft. + +One serious effect of the conflagration was the general disorganization +of the telegraph system. News items were sent over the wires, but +private messages inquiring about missing friends for days failed to +reach the parties concerned or to bring any return. + +That the world received news of the San Francisco disaster during the +dread day after the earthquake is due in part to the courage of the +telegraph operators, who stuck to their posts and, continued to send +news and other messages in spite of great personal danger. + +The operators and officials of the Postal Telegraph Company remained in +the main office of the company, at the corner of Market and Montgomery +Streets, opposite the Palace Hotel, until they were ordered out of +it because of the danger of the dynamite explosions in the immediate +vicinity. The men proceeded to Oakland, across the bay, and took +possession of the office there. That night the company operated seven +wires from Oakland, all messages from the city being taken across the +bay in boats. As the days passed on the service gradually improved, but +a week or more passed away before the general service of the company +became satisfactory. + + +THE DANGER FROM THIRST. + + +Such news as came from the city was full of tales of horror. For a +number of days one of the chief sources of trouble was from thirst. +Although the earthquake shocks had broken water mains in probably +hundreds of places, strange to say, no water, or very little at least, +appeared on the surface of the ground. Public fountains on Market +Street gave out no relief to the thirsty thousands. At Powell and Market +Streets a small stream of water spurted up through the cobblestones and +formed a muddy pool, at which the thirsty were glad enough to drink. The +soldiers, disregarding the order not to let people move about, permitted +bucket brigades to go forth and bring back water to relieve the women +and the crying children. To reach the water it was necessary sometimes +to go a mile to one of the four reservoirs which top the hills. + +Here is a story told by one observer of incidents in the city during the +fire: + +“I talked to one man who slept in Alta Plaza. The fire was going on +in the district south of them, and at intervals all night exhausted +fire-fighters made their way to the plaza and dropped, with the breath +out of them, among the huddled people and the bundles of household +goods. The soldiers, who are administering affairs with all the justice +of judges and all the devotion of heroes, kept three or four buckets +of water, even from the women, for these men, who kept coming all night +long. There was a little food, also kept by the soldiers for these +emergencies, and the sergeant had in his charge one precious bottle +of whisky, from which he doled out drinks to those who were utterly +exhausted. + +“Over in a corner of the plaza a band of men and women were praying, and +one fanatic, driven crazy by horror, was crying out at the top of his +voice: + +“‘The Lord sent it, the Lord!’ + +“His hysterical crying got in the nerves of the soldiers and bade fair +to start a panic among the women and children, so the sergeant went over +and stopped it by force. All night they huddled together in this hell, +with the fire making it bright as day on all sides; and in the morning +the soldiers, using their sense again, commandeered a supply of bread +from a bakery, sent out another water squad, and fed the refugees with a +semblance of breakfast. + +“There was one woman in the crowd who had been separated from her +husband in a rush of the smoke and did not know whether he was living. +The women attended to her all night and in the morning the soldiers +passed her through the lines in her search. A few Chinese made their +way into the crowd. They were trembling, pitifully scared and willing +to stop wherever the soldiers placed them. This is only a glimpse of the +horrible night in the parks and open places. + +“We learn here that many of the well-to-do people in the upper residence +district have gathered in the strangers from the highways and byways and +given them shelter and comfort for the night in their living rooms and +drawing rooms. Shelter seems to have come more easily than food. Not an +ounce of supplies, of course, has come in for two days, and most of the +permanent stores are in the hands of the soldiers, who dole them out to +all comers alike. But the hungry cannot always find the military stores +and the news has not gotten about, since there are no newspapers and no +regular means of communication. + +“An Italian tells me that he was taken in by a family living in a +three-story house in the fashionable Pacific Avenue. There were twenty +refugees who passed the night in the drawing room of that house, whose +mistress took down hangings to make them comfortable. In the morning all +the food that was left over in that home of wealth was enough flour and +baking powder to shake together a breakfast for the refugees. They were +hardly ready to leave that house when the fire came their way, and +the people of the house, together with the refugees, who included two +Chinese, made their way to the open ground of the Presidio. With them +streamed a procession of folks carrying valuables in bundles. + +“There came out, too, tales of both heroism and crime. The firemen had +been at it for thirty-six hours under such conditions as firemen never +before faced, and they do little more than give directions, while the +volunteers, thousands of young Western men who have remained to see it +through, do the work. The troops have all that they can do to handle +the crowds in the streets and prevent panics. The work of dynamiting, +tearing down and rescuing is in the hands of the volunteers. + +“This morning an eddy of flame from the edge of the burning wholesale +district ran up the slope of Russian Hill, the highest eminence in the +city. All along the edge of that hill and up the slopes are little frame +houses which hold Italians and Mexicans. A corps of volunteer aides ran +along the edge of the fire, warning people out of the houses. But the +flames ran too fast and three women were caught in the upper story of an +old frame house. A young man tore a rail from a fence, managed to climb +it, and reached the window. He bundled one woman out and slid her down +the rail; then the roof caught fire. He seized another woman and managed +to drop her on the rail, down which she slid without hurting herself a +great deal. But the roof fell while he was struggling with another woman +and they fell together into the flames. There must have been hundreds +of such heroisms and dozens of such catastrophes. We are so drunken +and dulled by horror that we take such stories calmly now. We are +saturated.” + + +HOW LOOTING WAS HINDERED. + + +One thing to be strictly guarded against in those days of destruction +was the outbreak of lawlessness. A city as large as San Francisco is +sure to hold a large number of the brigands of civilization, a horde +who need to be kept under strict discipline at all times, and especially +when calamity lets down for the time being the bars of the law, at +which time many of the usually law-abiding would join their ranks if any +license were allowed. The authorities made haste to guard against +this and certain other dangers, Mayor Schmitz issuing on Wednesday the +following proclamation: + +“The Federal troops, the members of the regular police force and special +police officers have been authorized to kill any and all persons engaged +in looting or in the commission of any other crime. + +“I have directed all the gas and electric lighting companies not to turn +on gas or electricity until I order them to do so. You may, therefore, +expect the city to remain in darkness for an indefinite time. + +“I request all citizens to remain at home from darkness until daylight +every night until order is restored. + +“I warn all citizens of the danger of fire from damaged or destroyed +chimneys, broken or leaking gas pipes or fixtures or any like causes.” + +He also ordered that no lights should be used in the houses and no fires +built in the houses until the chimneys had been inspected and repaired. + +There was need of vigilance in this direction, for the vandals were +quickly at work. Routed out from their dens along the wharves, the +rats of the waterfront, the drifters on the back eddy of civilization, +crawled out intent on plunder. Early in the day a policeman caught one +of these men creeping through the window of a small bank on Montgomery +Street and shot him dead. But the police were kept too busy at other +necessary duties to devote much time to these wretches, and for a time +many of them plundered at will, though some of them met with quick and +sure retribution. + + +STORIES BY SIGHTSEERS. + + +One onlooker says: “Were it not for the fact that the soldiers in charge +of the city do not hesitate in shooting down the ghouls the lawless +element would predominate. Not alone do the soldiers execute the law. On +Wednesday afternoon, in front of the Palace Hotel, a crowd of workers in +the mines discovered a miscreant in the act of robbing a corpse of its +jewels. Without delay he was seized, a rope obtained, and he was strung +up to a beam that was left standing in the ruined entrance of the hotel. +No sooner had he been hoisted up and a hitch taken in the rope than +one of his fellow-criminals was captured. Stopping only to obtain a few +yards of hemp, a knot was quickly tied, and the wretch was soon adorning +the hotel entrance by the side of the other dastard. + +“These are the only two instances I saw, but I heard of many that were +seen by others. The soldiers do all they can, and while the unspeakable +crime of robbing the dead is undoubtedly being practiced, it would be +many times as prevalent were it not for the constant vigilance on all +sides, as well as the summary justice.” + +Another observer tells of an instance of this summary justice that came +under his eyes: + +“At the corner of Market and Third Streets on Wednesday I saw a man +attempting to cut the fingers from the hand of a dead woman in order +to secure the rings which adorned the stiffened fingers. Three soldiers +witnessed the deed at the same time and ordered the man to throw up his +hands. Instead of obeying the command he drew a revolver from his pocket +and began to fire at his pursuer without warning. The three soldiers, +reinforced by half a dozen uniformed patrolmen, raised their rifles to +their shoulders and fired. With the first shots the man fell, and when +the soldiers went to the body to dump it into an alley nine bullets were +found to have entered it.” + +The warning this severity gave was accentuated in one instance in a most +effective manner. On a pile of bricks, stones and rubbish was thrown the +body of a man shot through the heart, and on his chest was pinned this +placard: + +“Take warning!” + +Those of the ghouls who saw this were likely to desist from their +detestable work, unless they valued spoils more than life. + +Willis Ames, a Salt Lake City man, tells of the kind of justice done to +thieves, as it came under his observation: + +“I saw man after man shot down by the troops. Most of these were ghouls. +One man made the trooper believe that one of the dead bodies lying on a +pile of rocks was his mother, and he was permitted to go up to the body. +Apparently overcome by grief, he threw himself across the corpse. In +another instant the soldiers discovered that he was chewing the diamond +earrings from the ears of the dead woman. ‘Here is where you get what is +coming to you,’ said one of the soldiers, and with that he put a +bullet through the ghoul. The diamonds were found in the man’s mouth +afterward.” + +Others were shot to save them from the horror of being burned alive. Max +Fast, a garment worker, tells of such an instance. He says: + +“When the fire caught the Windsor Hotel at Fifth and Market Streets +there were three men on the roof, and it was impossible to get them +down. Rather than see the crazed men fall in with the roof and be +roasted alive the military officer directed his men to shoot them, which +they did in the presence of 5,000 people.” + +He further states: “At Jefferson Square I saw a fatal clash between the +military and the police. A policeman ordered a soldier to take up a dead +body to put it in the wagon, and the soldier ordered the policeman to do +it. Words followed, and the soldier shot the policeman dead.” + +Among the many stories of this character on record is that of a +concerted effort to break into and rob the Mint, which led to the death +of fourteen men, who were shot down by the guard in charge. They +had disregarded the command of the officer in charge to desist. They +disobeyed, and the death of nearly the whole of them followed. + + +DEATH FOR SLIGHT OFFENSE. + + +As may well be imagined, the privilege given to fire at will was very +likely to lead to examples of unjustifiable haste in the use of the +rifle. Such haste is not charged against the United States troops, but +the militia and volunteer guards showed less judgment in the use of +their weapons. Thus we are told that one man was shot for the minor +offense of washing his hands in drinking water which had been brought +with great trouble for the thirsty people gathered in Columbia Park. It +is also said that a bank clerk, searching the ruins of his bank under +orders, was killed by a soldier who thought he was looting. More than +one seems to have been shot as looters for entering their own homes. + +Among the reports there is one that two men were shot through the +windows of their houses because they disobeyed the general orders and +lit candles, and one woman because she lighted a fire in her cook +stove. Yet, if such unwarranted acts existed, there were others better +deserved. It is said that three men were lined up and shot before ten +thousand people. One was caught taking the rings from a woman who had +fainted, another had stolen a piece of bread from a hungry child, and +the third, little more than a boy, was found in the act of robbing +tents. One thief who escaped the bullet richly deserved it. He came +upon a Miss Logan when lying unconscious on the floor of the St. Francis +Hotel after the earthquake, and, rather than take the time to wrench +some valuable rings from her hand, cut off the finger bearing them, and +left her to the horrors of the coming fire. + +The climax in the too free use of the rifle came on the 23d, when Major +H. C. Tilden, a prominent member of the General Relief Committee, was +shot and killed in his automobile by members of the citizens’ patrol. +Two others in the car were struck by bullets. The automobile had been +used as an ambulance and the Red Cross flag was displayed on it. The +excuse of the shooters was that they did not see the flag and that the +car did not stop when challenged. This act led to an order forbidding +the carrying of firearms by the citizens’ committees and to stricter +regulation of the soldiers in the use of their weapons. + +Later on looting took a new form different from that at first shown and +was practiced by a different class of people. These were the sightseers, +many of them people of prominence, who entered upon a crusade of relic +hunting in Chinatown, gathering and carrying off from the ashes of this +quarter valuable pieces of chinaware, bronze ornaments, etc. It became +necessary to put a stop to this, and on April 30th four militiamen were +arrested while digging in the ruins of the Chinese bazaars, and others +were frightened away by shots fired over their heads. A strong military +line was then drawn around the district, and this last resource of the +looter came to an end. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +The Panic Flight of a Homeless Host. + + +The scene that was visible in the streets of San Francisco on that dread +Wednesday morning was one to make the strongest shudder with horror. +Those three minutes of devastating earth tremors were moments never to +be forgotten. In such a time it is the human instinct to get into the +open air, and the people stumbled from their heaving and quivering +houses to find even the solid earth was swaying and rising and falling, +so that here and there great rents opened in the streets. To the +panic-stricken people the minutes that followed seemed years of terror. +Doubtless some among them died of sheer fright and more went mad with +terror. There was a roar in the air like a burst of thunder, and from +all directions came the crash of falling walls. They would run forward, +then stop, as another shock seemed to take the earth from under their +feet, and many of them flung themselves face downward on the ground in +an agony of fear. + +Two or three minutes seemed to pass before the fugitives found their +voices. Then the screams of women and the wild cries of men rent the +air, and with one impulse the terror-stricken host fled toward the +parks, to get themselves as far as possible from the tottering and +falling walls. These speedily became packed with people, most of them +in the night clothes in which they had leaped or been flung from their +beds, screaming and moaning at the little shocks that at intervals +followed the great one. The dawn was just breaking. The gas and electric +mains were gone and the street lamps were all out. The sky was growing +white in the east, but before the sun could fling his early rays from +the horizon there came another light, a lurid and threatening one, that +of the flames that had begun to rise in the warehouse district. + +The braver men and those without families to watch over set out for this +endangered region, half dressed as they were. In the early morning light +they could see the business district below them, many of the buildings +in ruins and the flames showing redly in five or six places. Through the +streets came the fire engines, called from the outlying districts by a +general alarm. The firemen were not aware as yet that no water was to be +had. + + +THE PANIC IN THE SLUMS. + + +On Portsmouth Square the panic was indescribable. This old tree plaza, +about which the early city was built, is now in the centre of Chinatown, +of the Italian district and of the “Barbary Coast,” the “Tenderloin” of +the Western metropolis. It is the chief slum district of the city. The +tremor here ran up the Chinatown hill and shook down part of the crazy +buildings on its southern edge. It brought ruin also to some of the +Italian tenements. Portsmouth Square became the refuge of the terrified +inhabitants. Out from their underground burrows like so many rats fled +the Chinese, trembling in terror into the square, and seeking by beating +gongs and other noise-making instruments to scare off the underground +demons. Into the square from the other side came the Italian refugees. +The panic became a madness, knives were drawn in the insanity of the +moment, and two Chinamen were taken to the morgue, stabbed to death +for no other reason than pure madness. Here on one side dwelt 20,000 +Chinese, and on the other thousands of Italians, Spaniards and Mexicans, +while close at hand lived the riff-raff of the “Barbary Coast.” + +Seemingly the whole of these rushed for that one square of open ground, +the two streams meeting in the centre of the square and heaping up on +its edges. There they squabbled and fought in the madness of panic and +despair, as so many mad wolves might have fought when caught in the +red whirl of a prairie fire, until the soldiers broke in and at the +bayonet’s point brought some semblance of order out of the confusion of +panic terror. + +This scene in Portsmouth Square but illustrated the madness of fear +everywhere prevailing. On every side thousands were fleeing from the +roaring furnace that minute by minute seemed to extend its boundaries. + + +THE FLIGHT FOR SAFETY. + + +In the awful scramble for safety the half-crazed survivors disregarded +everything but the thought of themselves and their property. In every +excavation and hole throughout the north beach householders buried +household effects, throwing them into ditches and covering the holes. +Attempts were made to mark the graves of the property so that it could +be recovered after the flames were appeased. + +The streets were filled with struggling people, some crying and +weeping and calling for missing loved ones. Crowding the sidewalks were +thousands of householders attempting to drag some of their effects to +places of safety. In some instances men with ropes were dragging trunks, +tandem style, while others had sewing machines strapped to the trunks. +Again, women were rushing for the hills, carrying on their arms only the +family cat or a bird cage. + +There were two ideas in the minds of the fugitives, and in many cases +these two only. One of these was to escape to the open ground of Golden +Gate Park and the Presidio reservation; the other was to reach the ferry +and make their way out of the seemingly doomed city. + +At the ferry building a crowd numbering thousands gathered, begging for +food and transportation across the bay. Hundreds had not even the ten +cents fare to Oakland. Most of the refugees at this point were Chinamen +and Italians, who had fled from their burned tenements with little or no +personal property. + +Residents of the hillsides in the central portion of the city seemingly +were safe from the inferno of flames that was consuming the business +section. They watched the towering mounds of flames, and speculated +as to the extent of the territory that was doomed. Suddenly there was +whispered alarm up and down the long line of watchers, and they hurried +away to drag clothing, cooking utensils and scant provisions through the +streets. From Grant Avenue the procession moved westward. Men and +women dragged trunks, packed huge bundles of blankets, boxes of +provisions--everything. Wagons could not be hired except by paying the +most extortionate rates. + +“Thank Heaven for the open space of the Presidio and for Golden Gate +Park!” was the unspoken thank-offering of many hearts. The great park, +with its thousand and more acres of area, extending from the thinly +populated part of the city across the sand dunes to the Pacific, seemed +in that awful hour a God-given place of refuge. Near it and extending to +the Golden Gate channel is the Presidio military reservation, containing +1,480 acres, and with only a few houses on its broad extent. Here also +was a place of safety, provided that the forests which form a part of +its area did not burn. + + +THE EXODUS FROM THE BURNING CITY. + + +To these open spaces, to the suburbs, in every available direction, +the fugitives streamed, in thousands, in tens of thousands, finally +in hundreds of thousands, safety from those towering flames, from +the tottering walls of their dwellings, from a possible return of the +earthquake, their one overmastering thought. There were many persons +with scanty clothing, women in underskirts and thin waists and men in +shirt sleeves. Many women carried children, while others wheeled +baby carriages. It was a strange and weird procession, that kept up +unceasingly all that dreadful day and through the night that followed, +as the all-conquering flames spread the area of terror. + +At intervals news came of what was doing behind the smoke cloud. The +area of the flames spread all night. People who had decided that their +houses were outside of the dangerous area and had decided to pass the +night, even after the terrible experience of the shake-up, under their +roofs, hourly gave up the idea and struggled to the parks. There they +lay in blankets, their choicest valuables by their sides, and the +soldiers kept watch and order. Many lay on the bare grass of the park, +with nothing between them and the chill night air. Fortunately, the +weather was clear and mild, but among those who lay under the open sky +were men and women who were delicately reared, accustomed all their +lives to luxurious surroundings, and these must have suffered severely +during that night of terror. + +The fire was going on in the district south of them, and at intervals +all night exhausted fire-fighters made their way to the plaza and +dropped, with the breath out of them, among the huddled people and the +bundles of household goods. The soldiers, who were administering affairs +with all the justice of judges and all the devotion of heroes, kept +three or four buckets of water, even from the women, for these men, who +continued to come all the night long. There was a little food, also +kept by the soldiers for these emergencies, and the sergeant had in his +charge one precious bottle of whisky, from which he doled out drinks to +those who were utterly exhausted. + +But there was no panic. The people were calm, stunned. They did not +seem to realize the extent of the calamity. They heard that the city +was being destroyed; they told each other in the most natural tone +that their residences were destroyed by the flames, but there was no +hysteria, no outcry, no criticism. + +The trip to the hills and to the water front was one of terrible +hardship. Famishing women and children and exhausted men were compelled +to walk seven miles around the north shore in order to avoid the flames +and reach the ferries. Many dropped to the street under the weight of +their loads, and willing fathers and husbands, their strength almost +gone, strove to pick up and urge them forward again. + +In the panic many mad things were done. Even soldiers were obliged in +many instances to prevent men and women, made insane from the misfortune +that had engulfed them, from rushing into doomed buildings in the hope +of saving valuables from the ruins. In nearly every instance such action +resulted in death to those who tried it. At Larkin and Sutter Streets, +two men and a woman broke from the police and rushed into a burning +apartment house, never to reappear. + +The rush to the parks and the dunes was followed in the days that +followed by as wild a rush to the ferries, due to the mad desire to +escape anywhere, in any way, from the burning city. + + +THE WILD RUSH TO THE FERRIES. + + +At the ferry station on Wednesday night there was much confusion. +Mingled in an inextricable mass were people of every race and class +on earth. A common misfortune and hunger obliterated all distinctions. +Chinese, lying on pallets of rags, slept near exhausted white women with +babies in their arms. Bedding, household furniture of every description, +pet animals and trinkets, luggage and packages of every sort packed +almost every foot of space near the ferry building. Men spread bedding +on the pavement and calmly slept the sleep of exhaustion, while all +around a bedlam of confusion reigned. + +Many of those who sought the ferry on that fatal Wednesday met a solid +wall of flames extending for squares in length and utterly impassable. +In their half insane eagerness to escape some of them would have rushed +into fatal danger but for the soldiers, who guarded the fire line +and forced them back. Only those reached the ferry who had come in +precedence of the flames, or who made a long detour to reach that avenue +of flight. When the news came to the camps of refugees that it was safe +to cross the burned area a procession began from the Golden Gate Park +across the city and down Market Street, the thoroughfare which had long +been the pride of the citizens, and a second from the Presidio, along +the curving shore line of the north bay, thence southward along the +water front. Throughout these routes, eight miles long, a continuous +flow of humanity dragged its weary way all day and far into the night +amidst hundreds of vehicles, from the clumsy garbage cart to the modern +automobile. Almost every person and every vehicle carried luggage. +Drivers of vehicles were disregardful of these exhausted, hungry +refugees and drove straight through the crowd. So dazed and deadened to +all feeling were some of them that they were bumped aside by carriage +wheels or bumped out of the way by persons. + + +SCENES OF HUMOR AND PATHOS. + + +As already stated, the scene had its humorous as well as its pathetic +side, and various amusing stories are told by those who were in a frame +of mind to notice ludicrous incidents in the horrors of the situation. +Two race track men met in the drive. + +“Hello, Bill; where are you living now?” asked one. + +“You see that tree over there--that big one?” said Bill. “Well, you +climb that. My room is on the third branch to the left,” and they went +away laughing. + +Another observer tells these incidents of the flight: “I saw one big fat +man calmly walking up Market Street, carrying a huge bird cage, and the +cage was empty. He seemed to enjoy looking at the wrecked buildings. +Another man was leading a huge Newfoundland dog and carrying a kitten in +his arms. He kept talking to the kitten. On Fell Street I noticed an old +woman, half dressed, pushing a sewing machine up the hill. A drawer +fell out, and she stopped to gather the fallen spools. Poor little +seamstress, it was now her all.” + +A more amusing instance of the spirit of saving is that told by another +narrator, who says that he saw a lone woman patiently pushing an upright +piano along the pavement a few inches at a time. Evidently in this case, +too, it was the poor soul’s one great treasure on earth. + +He also tells of a guest berating the proprietor of a hotel, a few +minutes after the shock, because he had not obeyed orders to call him at +five o’clock. He vowed he would never stop at that house again, a vow he +might well keep, as the house is no more. + +In one room where two girls were dressing the floor gave way and one of +them disappeared. + +“Where are you, Mary?” screamed her companion. + +“Oh, I’m in the parlor,” said Mary calmly, as she wriggled out of the +mass of plaster and mortar below. + +At the handsome residence of Rudolph Spreckels, the wealthy financier, +the lawn was riven from end to end in great gashes, while the ornamental +Italian rail leading to the imposing entrance was a battered heap. But +the family, with a philosophy notable for the occasion, calmly set up +housekeeping on the sidewalk, the women seated in armchairs taken from +the mansion and wrapped in rugs and coverlets, the silver breakfast +service was laid out on the stone coping and their morning meal spread +out on the sidewalk. This, scene was repeated at other houses of the +wealthy, the families too fearful of another shock to venture within +doors. + +Another story of much interest in this connection is told. On Friday +afternoon, two days and some hours after the scene just narrated, Mrs. +Rudolph Spreckels presented her husband with an heir on the lawn in +front of their mansion, while the family were awaiting the coming of the +dynamite squad to blow up their magnificent residence. An Irish woman +who had been called in to play the part of midwife at a birth elsewhere +on Saturday, made a pertinent comment after the wee one’s eyes were +opened to the walls of its tent home. + +“God sends earthquakes and babies,” she said, “but He might, in His +mercy, cut out sending them both together.” + +There were many pathetic incidents. Families had been sadly separated +in the confusion of the flight. Husbands had lost their wives--wives +had lost their husbands, and anxious mothers sought some word of their +children--the stories were very much the same. One pretty looking woman +in an expensive tailor-made costume badly torn, had lost her little +girl. + +“I don’t think anything has happened to her,” said she, hopefully. “She +is almost eleven years old, and some one will be sure to take her in and +care for her; I only want to know where she is. That is all I care about +now.” + +A well-known young lady of good social position, when asked where she +had spent the night, replied: “On a grave.” + +“I thank God, I thank Uncle Sam and the people of this nation,” said a +woman, clad in a red woolen wrapper, seated in front of a tent at the +Presidio nursing one child and feeding three others from a board propped +on two bricks. “We have lost our home and all we had, but we have never +been hungry nor without shelter.” + +The spirit of ‘49 was vital in many of the refugees. One man wanted to +know whether the fire had reached his home. He was informed that there +was not a house standing in that section of the city. He shrugged his +shoulders and whistled. + +“There’s lots of others in the same boat,” as he turned away. + +“Going to build?” repeated one man, who had lost family and home inside +of two hours. “Of course, I am. They tell me that the money in the banks +is still all right, and I have some insurance. Fifteen years ago I began +with these,” showing his hands, “and I guess I’m game to do it over +again. Build again, well I wonder.” + +Among the many pathetic incidents of the disaster was that of a woman +who sat at the foot of Van Ness Avenue on the hot sands on the hillside +overlooking the bay east of Fort Mason, with four little children, +the youngest a girl of three, the eldest a boy of ten years. They were +destitute of water, food and money. + +The woman had fled, with her children, from a home in flames in the +Mission Street district, and tramped to the bay in the hope of sighting +the ship which she said was about due, of which her husband was the +captain. + +“He would know me anywhere,” she said. And she would not move, although +a young fellow gallantly offered his tent, back on a vacant lot, in +which to shelter her children. + + +THE GOLDEN GATE CAMP. + + +In the Golden Gate Park there was the most woefully grotesque camp of +sufferers imaginable. There was no caste, no distinction of rich and +poor, social lines had been obliterated by the common misfortune, and +the late owners of property and wealth were glad to camp by the side of +the day laborer. As for shelter, there were a few army tents and some +others which afforded a fair degree of comfort, but nine out of ten are +the poorest suggestions of tents made out of bedclothes, rugs, raincoats +and in some cases of lace curtains. None of the tents or huts has a +floor, and it is impossible to see how a large number of women and +children can escape the most disastrous physical effects. + +The unspeakable chaos that prevailed was apparent in no way more than +in the system, or lack of system, of registration and location. At the +entrance to Golden Gate Park stands a billboard, twenty feet high and +a hundred feet long. Originally it bore the praises of somebody’s beer. +Covering this billboard, to a height of ten or twelve feet, were slips +of paper, business cards, letter heads and other notices, addressed +to “Those interested,” “Friends and relatives,” or to some individual, +telling of the whereabouts of refugees. + +One notice read: “Mrs. Rogers will find her husband in Isidora Park, +Oakland. W. H. Rogers.” Another style was this: “Sue, Harry and Will +Sollenberger all safe. Call at No. 250 Twenty-seventh Avenue.” + +There were thousands of these dramatic notices on this billboard, and +one larger than the others read: “Death notices can be left here; get as +many as possible.” + +Another method of finding friends and relatives was by printing notices +on vehicles. On the side curtains of a buggy being driven to Golden Gate +Park was the following sign: “I am looking for I. E. Hall.” + +That searchers for lost ones might have the least trouble, all the +tents, here known as camps, were tagged with the names or numbers. For +instance, one tent of bed quilts carried this sign: “No. 40 Bush Street +camp.” + +Most of the tents were merely named for the family name of the +occupants, the former streets number usually being given. But these tent +tags told a wonderful story of human nature. A small army tent bore the +name, “Camp Thankful,” the one next to it was placarded “Camp Glory” and +a few feet farther on an Irishman had posted the sign “Camp Hell.” + +The cooking was all done on a dozen bricks for a stove, with such +utensils as may usually be picked up in the ordinary residential alley. +But in all of the camps the badge of the eternal feminine was to be +found in the form of small pieces of broken mirrors, or hand mirrors +fastened to trees or tent walls, in some cases the polished bottom of a +tomato can serving the purposes of the feminine toilet. + +One woman, in whose improvised tent screeched a parrot, sat ministering +to the wounds of the other family pet, a badly singed cat. The number of +canaries, parrots, dogs and cats was one of the amusing features of the +disaster. + +Among the interesting and thrilling incidents of the disaster is that +connected with the telegraph service. For many hours virtually all the +news from San Francisco came over the wires of the Postal Telegraph +Company. The Postal has about fifteen wires running into San Francisco. +They go under the bay in cables from Oakland, and thence run underground +for several blocks down Market Street to the Postal building. About +forty operators are employed to handle the business, but evidently there +was only about one on duty when the earthquake began. + +What became of him nobody knows. But he seems to have sent the first +word of the disaster. It came over the Postal wires about nine o’clock, +just when the day’s business had started in the East. It will long be +preserved in the records of the company. This was the dispatch: + +“There was an earthquake hit us at 5.13 this morning, wrecking several +buildings and wrecking our offices. They are carting dead from the +fallen buildings. Fire all over town. There is no water and we lost our +power. I’m going to get out of office, as we have had a little shake +every few minutes, and it’s me for the simple life.” + +“R., San Francisco, 5.50 A. M.” + +“Mr. R.” evidently got out, for there was nothing doing for a brief +interval after that. The operator in the East pounded and pounded at his +key, but San Francisco was silent. The Postal people were wondering if +it was all the dream of some crazy operator or a calamity, when the wire +woke up again. It was the superintendent of the San Francisco force this +time. + +“We’re on the job, and are going to try and stick,” was the way the +first message came from him. + +This was what came over the wire a little later: + +“Terrific earthquake occurred here at 5.13 this morning. A number of +people were killed in the city. None of the Postal people were killed. +They are now carting the dead from the fallen buildings. There are many +fires, with no one to fight them. Postal building roof wrecked, but not +entire building.” + +The fire got nearer and nearer to the Postal building. All of the water +mains had been destroyed around the building, the operators said, and +there was no hope if the fire came on. They also said that they could +hear the sound of dynamite blowing up buildings. All this time the +operators were sticking to their posts and sending and receiving all the +business the wires could stand. At 12.45 the wire began to click again +with a message for the little group of waiting officials. + +This message came in jerks: “Fire still coming up Market Street. It’s +one block from the Post Office now; back of the Palace Hotel is a +furnace. I am afraid that the Grand Hotel and the Palace Hotel will get +it soon. The Southern Pacific offices on California Street are safe, +so far, but can’t tell what will happen. California Street is on fire. +Almost everything east of Montgomery Street and north of Market Street +is on fire now.” + +There was a pause, then: “We are beginning to pack up our instruments.” + +“Instruments are all packed up, and we are ready to run,” was another +message. It was evident that just one instrument had been left connected +with the world outside. In about ten minutes it began to click. Those +who knew the telegraphers’ language caught the word “Good-bye,” and then +the ticks stopped. + +At the end of an hour the instrument in the office began to click again. +It was from an electrician by the name of Swain. + +“I’m back in the building, but they are dynamiting the building next +door, and I’ve got to get out,” was the way his message was translated. +Dynamite ended the story, and the Postal’s domicile in San Francisco +ceased to exist. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Facing Famine and Praying for Relief. + + +Frightful was the emergency of the vast host of fugitives who fled +in terror from the blazing city of San Francisco to the open gates of +Golden Gate Park and the military reservation of the Presidio. Food was +wanting, scarcely any water was to be had, death by hunger and thirst +threatened more than a quarter million of souls thus driven without +warning from their comfortable and happy homes and left without food +or shelter. Provisions, shelter tents, means of relief of various kinds +were being hurried forward in all haste, but for several days the host +of fugitives had no beds but the bare ground, no shelter but the open +heavens, scarcely a crumb of bread to eat, scarcely a gill of water to +drink. Those first days that followed the disaster were days of horror +and dread. Rich and poor were mingled together, the delicately reared +with the rough sons of toil to whom privation was no new experience. + +Those who had food to sell sought to take advantage of the necessities +of the suffering by charging famine prices for their supplies, but the +soldiers put a quick stop to this. When Thursday morning broke, lines +of buyers formed before the stores whose supplies had not been +commandeered. In one of these, the first man was charged 75 cents for a +loaf of bread. The corporal in charge at that point brought his gun down +with a slam. + +“Bread is 10 cents a loaf in this shop,” he said. + +It went. The soldier fixed the schedule of prices a little higher than +in ordinary times, and to make up for that he forced the storekeeper to +give free food to several hungry people in line who had no money to pay. +In several other places the soldiers used the same brand of horse sense. + +A man with a loaf of bread in his hand ran up to a policeman on +Washington Street. “Here,” he said, “this man is trying to charge me a +dollar for this loaf of bread. Is that fair?” + +“Give it to me,” said the policeman. He broke off one end of it and +stuck it in his mouth. “I am hungry myself,” he said when he had his +mouth clear. “Take the rest of it. It’s appropriated.” + +As an example of the prices charged for food and service by the +unscrupulous, we may quote the experience of a Los Angeles millionaire +named John Singleton, who had been staying a day or two at the Palace +Hotel. On Wednesday he had to pay $25 for an express wagon to carry +himself, his wife and her sister to the Casino, near Golden Gate Park, +and on Thursday was charged a dollar apiece for eggs and a dollar for a +loaf of bread. Others tell of having to pay $50 for a ride to the ferry. + +One of the refugees on the shores of Lake Herced Thursday morning spied +a flock of ducks and swans which the city maintained there for the +decoration of the lake. He plunged into the lake, swam out to them and +captured a fat drake. Other men and boys saw the point and followed. The +municipal ducks were all cooking in five minutes. + +The soldiers were prompt to take charge of the famine situation, acting +on their own responsibility in clearing out the supplies of the little +grocery stores left standing and distributing them among the people in +need. The principal food of those who remained in the city was composed +of canned goods and crackers. The refugees who succeeded in getting out +of San Francisco were met as soon as they entered the neighboring towns +by representatives of bakers who had made large supplies of bread, and +who immediately dealt them out to the hungry people. + + +THE FOOD QUESTION URGENT. + + +But the needs of the three hundred thousand homeless and hungry people +in the city could not be met in this way, and immediate supplies in +large quantities were necessary to prevent a reign of famine from +succeeding the ravages of the fire. Danger from thirst was still more +insistent than that from hunger. There was some food to be had, bakeries +were quickly built within the military reservation there, and General +Funston announced that rations would soon reach the city and the people +would be supplied from the Presidio. But there was scarcely any water to +relieve the thirst of the suffering. Water became the incessant cry +of firemen and people alike, the one wanting it to fight the fire, the +other to drink, but even for the latter the supply was very scant. +There was water in plenty in the reservoirs, but they were distant and +difficult to reach, and all night of the day succeeding the earth shock +wagons mounted with barrels and guarded by soldiers drove through the +park doling out water. There was a steady crush around these wagons, but +only one drink was allowed to a person. + +Toward midnight a black, staggering body of men began to weave through +the entrance. They were volunteer fire-fighters, looking for a place +to throw themselves down and sleep. These men dropped out all along the +line, and were rolled out of the driveways by the troops. There was much +splendid unselfishness here. Women gave up their blankets and sat up or +walked about all night to cover the exhausted men who had fought fire +until there was no more fight in them. + +The common destitution and suffering had, as we have said, wiped out all +social, financial and racial distinctions. The man who last Tuesday was +a prosperous merchant was obliged to occupy with his family a little +plot of ground that adjoined the open-air home of a laborer. The +white man of California forgot his antipathy to the Asiatic race, +and maintained friendly relations with his new Chinese and Japanese +neighbors. The society belle who Tuesday night was a butterfly of +fashion at the grand opera performance now assisted some factory girl +in the preparation of humble daily meals. Money had little value. The +family that had had foresight to lay in the largest stock of foodstuffs +on the first day of disaster was rated highest in the scale of wealth. + +A few of the families that could secure wagons were possessors of cook +stoves, but over 95 per cent. of the refugees did their cooking on +little campfires made of brick or stone. Battered kitchen utensils that +the week before would have been regarded as useless had become articles +of high value. In fact, man had come back to nature and all lines +of caste had been obliterated, while the very thought of luxury had +disappeared. It was, in the exigency of the moment, considered good +fortune to have a scant supply of the barest necessaries of life. + +As for clothing, it was in many cases of the scantiest, while numbers of +the people had brought comfortable clothing and bedding. Many others had +fled in their night garbs, and comparatively few of these had had the +self-possession to return and don their daytime clothes. As a result +there had been much improvisation of garments suitable for life in the +open air, and as the days went on many of the women arrayed themselves +in home-made bloomer costumes, a sensible innovation under the +circumstances and in view of the active outdoor work they were obliged +to perform. + +The grave question to be faced at this early stage was: How soon would +an adequate supply of food arrive from outside points to avert famine? +Little remained in San Francisco beyond the area swept by the fire, and +the available supply could not last more than a few days. Fresh meat +disappeared early on Wednesday and only canned foods and breadstuffs +were left. All the foodstuffs coming in on the cars were at once seized +by order of the Mayor and added to the scanty supply, the names of the +consignees being taken that this material might eventually be paid for. +The bakers agreed to work their plants to their utmost capacity and to +send all their surplus output to the relief committee. By working night +and day thousands of loaves could be provided daily. A big bakery in +the saved district started its ovens and arranged to bake 50,000 loaves +before night. The provisions were taken charge of by a committee +and sent to the various depots from which the people were being fed. +Instructions were issued by Mayor Schmitz on Thursday to break open +every store containing provisions and to distribute them to the +thousands under police supervision. A policeman reported that two +grocery stores in the neighborhood were closed, although the clerks were +present. “Smash the stores open,” ordered the Mayor, “and guard them.” + In towns across the bay the master bakers have met and fixed the price +of bread at 5 cents the loaf, with the understanding that they will +refuse to sell to retailers who attempt to charge famine prices. The +committee of citizens in charge of the situation in the stricken city +proposed to use every effort to keep food down to the ordinary price and +check the efforts of speculators, who in one instance charged as much as +$3.50 for two loaves of bread and a can of sardines. Orders were issued +by the War Department to army officers to purchase at Los Angeles +immediately 200,000 rations and at Seattle 300,000 rations and hurry +them to San Francisco. The department was informed that there were +120,000 rations at the Presidio, that thousands of refugees were being +sheltered there and that the army was feeding them. One million rations +already had been started to San Francisco by the department. But in +view of the fact that there were 300,000 fugitives to be fed the supply +available was likely to be soon exhausted. + + +FOOD FOR THE HUNGRY. + + +Such was the state of affairs at the end of the second day of the great +disaster. But meanwhile the entire country had been aroused by the +tidings of the awful calamity, the sympathetic instinct of Americans +everywhere was awakened, and it was quickly made evident that the people +of the stricken city would not be allowed to suffer for the necessaries +of life. On all sides money was contributed in large sums, the United +States Government setting the example by an immediate appropriation of +$1,000,000, and in the briefest possible interval relief trains were +speeding toward the stricken city from all quarters, carrying supplies +of food, shelter tents and other necessaries of a kind that could not +await deliberate action. + +Shelter was needed almost as badly as food, for a host of the refugees +had nothing but their thin clothing to cover them, and, though the +weather at first was fine and mild, a storm might come at any time. +In fact, a rain did come, a severe one, early in the week after the +disaster, pouring nearly all night long on the shivering campers in +the parks, wetting them to the skin and soaking through the rudely +improvised shelters which many of the refugees had put up. A few days +afterward came a second shower, rendering still more evident the need of +haste in providing suitable shelter. + +All this was foreseen by those in charge, and the most strenuous efforts +were made to provide the absolute necessities of life. Huge quantities +of supplies were poured into the city. From all parts of California +trainloads of food were rushed there in all haste. A steamer from the +Orient laden with food reached the city in its hour of need; another was +dispatched in all haste from Tacoma bearing $25,000 worth of food and +medical supplies, ordered by Mayor Weaver, of Philadelphia, as a first +installment of that city’s contribution. Money was telegraphed from +all quarters to the Governor of California, to be expended for food and +other supplies, and so prompt was the response to the insistent demand +that by Saturday all danger of famine was at an end; the people were +being fed. + + +WATER FOR THE THIRSTY. + + +The broken waterpipes were also repaired with all possible haste, the +Spring Valley Water Company putting about one thousand men at work upon +their shattered mains, and in a very brief time water began to flow +freely in many parts of the residence section and the great difficulty +of obtaining food and water was practically at an end. Never in +the history of the country has there been a more rapid and complete +demonstration of the resourcefulness of Americans than in the way this +frightful disaster was met. + +Food, water and shelter were not the only urgent needs. At first there +was absolutely no sanitary provision, and the danger of an epidemic +was great. This was a peril which the Board of Health addressed itself +vigorously to meet, and steps for improving the sanitary conditions were +hastily taken. Quick provision for sheltering the unfortunates was also +made. Eight temporary structures, 150 feet in length by 28 feet wide +and 13 feet high, were erected in Golden Gate Park, and in these +sheds thousands found reasonably comfortable quarters. This was but a +beginning. More of these buildings were rapidly erected, and by their +aid the question of shelter was in part solved. The buildings were +divided into compartments large enough to house a family, each +compartment having an entrance from the outside. This work was done +under the control of the engineering department of the United States +army, which had taken steps to obtain a full supply of lumber and had +put 135 carpenters to work. Those of the refugees who were without tents +were the first to be provided for in these temporary buildings. + + +THE CAMPS IN THE PARKS. + + +To those who made an inspection of the situation a few days after +the earthquake, the hills and beaches of San Francisco looked like an +immense tented city. For miles through the park and along the beaches +from Ingleside to the sea wall at North Beach the homeless were camped +in tents--makeshifts rigged up from a few sticks of wood and a blanket +or sheet. Some few of the more fortunate secured vehicles on which they +loaded regulation tents and were, therefore, more comfortably housed +than the great majority. Golden Gate Park and the Panhandle looked like +one vast campaign ground. It is said that fully 100,000 persons, rich +and poor alike, sought refuge in Golden Gate Park alone, and 200,000 +more homeless ones located at the other places of refuge. + +At the Presidio military reservation, where probably 50,000 persons +were camped, affairs were conducted with military precision. Water was +plentiful and rations were dealt out all day long. The refugees stood +patiently in line and there was not a murmur. This characteristic was +observable all over the city. The people were brave and patient, and the +wonderful order preserved by them proved of great assistance. In Golden +Gate Park a huge supply station had been established and provisions were +dealt out. + +Six hundred men from the Ocean Shore Railway arrived on Saturday night +with wagons and implements to work on the sewer system. Inspectors were +kept going from house to house, examining chimneys and issuing permits +to build fires. In fact, activity manifested itself in all quarters in +the attempt to bring order out of confusion, and in an astonishingly +short time the tented city was converted from a scene of wretched +disorder into one of order and system. + +At Jefferson Park were camped thousands of people of every class in +life. On the western edge of this park is the old Scott house, where +Mrs. McKinley lay sick for two weeks in 1901. Three times a day the +people all gathered in line before the provision wagons for their little +handouts. “Yesterday,” says an observer, “I saw, in order before the +wagons, a Lascar sailor in his turban, about as low a Chinatown bum as I +ever set eyes on, a woman of refined appearance, a barefooted child, two +Chinamen, and a pretty girl. They were squeezed up together by the line, +which extended for a quarter of a mile. It is civilization in the bare +bones. + +“The great and rich are on a level with the poor in the struggle for +bare existence, and over them all is the perfect, unbroken discipline +of the soldiery. They came into the city and took charge on an hour’s +notice, they saved the city from itself in the three days of hell, and +but for them the city, even with enough provisions to feed them in the +stores and warehouses, must have gone hungry for lack of distributive +organization.” + + +COMEDY AND PATHOS IN THE BREAD LINE. + + +At one of the parks on Tuesday morning a handsomely dressed woman +with two children at her skirts stood in a line of many hundreds where +supplies were being given out. She took some uncooked bacon, and as she +reached for it jewels sparkled on her fingers. One of the tots took a +can of condensed milk, the other a bag of cakes. + +“I have money,” she said, “‘if I could get it and use it. I have +property, if I could realize on it. I have friends, if I could get to +them. Meantime I am going to cook this piece of bacon on bricks and be +happy.” + +She was only one of thousands like her. + +In a walk through the city this note of cheerfulness of the people in +the face of an almost incredible week of horror was to a correspondent +the mitigating element to the awfulness of disaster. + +In the streets of the residential district in the western addition, +which the fire did not reach, women of the houses were cooking meals on +the pavement. In most cases they had moved out the family ranges, +and were preparing the food which they had secured from the Relief +Committee. + +Out on Broderick street, near the Panhandle, a piano sounded. It was +nigh ten o’clock and the stars were shining after the rain. Fires +gleamed up and down through the shrubbery and the refugees sat huddled +together about the flames, with their blankets about their heads, +Apache-like, in an effort to dry out after the wetting of the afternoon. +The piano, dripping with moisture, stood on the curb, near the front of +a cottage which had been wrecked by the earthquake. + +A youth with a shock of red hair sat on a cracker box and pecked at the +ivories. “Home Ain’t Nothing Like This” was thrummed from the rusting +wires with true vaudeville dash and syncopation. “Bill Bailey,” “Good +Old Summer Time,” “Dixie” and “In Toyland” followed. Three young men +with handkerchiefs wrapped about their throats in lieu of collars stood +near the pianist and with him lifted up their voices in melody. The +harmony was execrable, the time without excuse, but the songs ran +through the trees of the Panhandle, and the crows, forgetting their +misery for a time, joined the strange chorus. + +The people had their tales of comedy, one being that on the morning of +the fire a richly dressed woman who lived in one of the aristocratic +Sutter Street apartments came hurrying down the street, faultlessly +gowned as to silks and sables, save that one dainty foot was shod with +a high-heeled French slipper and the other was incased in a laborer’s +brogan. They say that as she walked she careened like a bark-rigged ship +before a typhoon. + +An hour spent behind the counter of the food supply depot in the park +tennis court yielded rich reward to the seeker after the outlandish. The +tennis court was piled high with the plunder of several grocery stores +and the cargoes of many relief cars. A square cut in the wire screen +permitted of the insertion of a counter, behind which stood members +of the militia acting as food dispensers. Before the improvised window +passed the line of refugees, a line which stretched back fully 300 yards +to Speedway track. + +“I want a can of condensed cream, so I can feed my baby and my dog,” + said a large, florid-faced woman in a gaudy kimono, “and I don’t care +for crackers, but you can throw in some potted chicken if you have it.” + +“What’s in that bottle over there?” queried the next applicant. “Tomato +ketchup? Well, of all the luck! Say, young man, just give me three.” + +A little gray-haired woman in an India shawl peered timorously through +the window. “Just a little bit of anything you may have handy, please,” + she whispered, and she cast a careful eye about to see of any of her +neighbors had recognized her standing there in the “bread line.” + +“Yesterday, at the Western Union office,” says one writer, “I saw a +woman drive up in a large motor car and beg that the telegram on which a +boy had asked a delivery fee of twenty-five cents be handed to her. She +said she had not a penny and did not know when she would have any money, +but that as soon as she had any she would pay for the message. It +was given to her, and the manager told me that there were hundreds of +similar cases.” + +Many weddings resulted from the disaster. Women driven out of their +homes and left destitute, appealed to the men to whom they were engaged, +and immediate marriages took place. After the first day of the disaster +an increase in the marriage licenses issued was noticed by County Clerk +Cook. This increase grew until seven marriage licenses were issued in an +hour. + +“I don’t live anywhere,” was the answer given in many cases when the +applicant for a license was asked the locality of his residence. “I used +to live in San Francisco.” + +Births seem to have been about as common as marriages, in one night +five children being born in Golden Gate Park. In Buena Vista Park eight +births were recorded and others elsewhere, the population being thus +increased at a rate hardly in accordance with the exigencies of the +situation. + + +THE EXODUS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. + + +We have spoken only of the camps of refugees within the municipal +limits of San Francisco. But in addition to these was the multitude of +fugitives who made all haste to escape from that city. This was with the +full consent of the authorities, who felt that every one gone lessened +the immediate weight upon themselves, and who issued a strict edict that +those who went must stay, that there could be no return until a counter +edict should be made public. + +From the start this was one of the features of the situation. Down +Market Street, once San Francisco’s pride, now leading through piles of +tottering walls, piles of still hot bricks and twisted iron and heaps +of smouldering debris, poured a huge stream of pedestrians. Men bending +under the weight of great bundles pushed baby carriages loaded with +bric-a-brac and children. Women toiled along with their arms full, but +a large proportion were able to ride, for the relief corps had been +thoroughly organized and wagons were being pressed into service from all +sides. + +In constant procession they moved toward the ferry, whence the Southern +Pacific was transporting them with baggage free wherever they wished to +go. Automobiles meanwhile shot in all directions, carrying the Red Cross +flag and usually with a soldier carrying a rifle in the front seat. They +had the right of way everywhere, carrying messages and transporting the +ill to temporary hospitals and bearing succor to those in distress. + +Oakland, the nearest place of resort, on the bay shore opposite San +Francisco, soon became a great city of refuge, fugitives gathering there +until 50,000 or more were sheltered within its charitable limits. Having +suffered very slightly from the earthquake that had wrecked the great +city across the bay, it was in condition to offer shelter to the +unfortunate. All day Wednesday and Thursday a stream of humanity poured +from the ferries, every one carrying personal baggage and articles saved +from the conflagration. Hundreds of Chinese men, women and children, all +carrying baggage to the limit of their strength, made their way into the +limited Chinatown of Oakland. + +Multitudes of persons besieged the telegraph offices, and the crush +became so great that soldiers were stationed at the doors to keep them +in line and allow as many as possible to find standing room at the +counters. Messages were stacked yards high in the offices waiting to +be sent throughout the world. Every boat from San Francisco brought +hundreds of refugees, carrying luggage and bedding in large quantities. +Many women were bareheaded and all showed fatigue as the result of +sleeplessness and exposure to the chill air. Hundreds of these persons +lined the streets of Oakland, waiting for some one to provide them with +shelter, for which the utmost possible provision was quickly made. No +one was allowed to go hungry in Oakland and few lacked shelter. At the +Oakland First Presbyterian Church 1,800 were fed and 1,000 people were +provided with sleeping accommodations. Pews were turned into beds. Cots +stood in the aisles, in the gallery and in the Sunday school room. Every +available inch of space was occupied by some substitute for a bed. + +As the days wore on the number of refugees somewhat decreased. Although +they still came in large numbers, many left on every train for different +points. Requests for free transportation were investigated as closely +as possible and all the deserving were sent away. Women and children and +married men who wished to join their families in different parts of the +State were given preference. The transportation bureau was on a street +corner, where a man stood on a box and called the names of those +entitled to passes. + +Along the principal streets of Oakland there was a picturesque +pilgrimage of former householders, who dragged or carried the meagre +effects they had been able to save. The refugees who could not be cared +for in Oakland made an exodus to Berkeley and other surrounding cities, +where relief committees were actively at work. Utter despair was +pictured on many faces, which showed the effects of sleepless days and +nights, and the want of proper food. + +Oakland was only one of the outside camps of refuge. At Berkeley +over 6,000 refugees sought quarters, the big gymnasium of the State +University being turned into a lodging house, while hundreds were +provided with blankets to sleep in the open air under the University +oaks. The students and professors of the University did all they could +for their relief, and the Citizens’ Relief Committee supplied them with +food. + +The same benevolent sympathy was manifested at all the places near the +ruined city which had escaped disaster, this aid materially reducing +that needed within San Francisco itself. + + +WORSHIP IN THE OPEN AIR. + + +Sunday dawned in San Francisco; Sunday in the camp of the refugees. On a +green knoll in Golden Gate Park, between the conservatory and the tennis +courts, a white-haired minister of the Gospel gathered his flock. It was +the Sabbath day and in the turmoil and confusion the minister did not +forget his duty. Two upright stakes and a cross-piece gave him a rude +pulpit, and beside him stood a young man with a battered brass cornet. +Far over the park stole a melody that drew hundreds of men and women +from their tents. Of all denominations and all creeds, they gathered on +that green knoll, and the men uncovered while the solemn voice repeated +the words of a grand old hymn, known wherever men and women meet to +worship the Lord: + + +“Other refuge have I none, hangs my helpless soul on Thee; Leave, oh, +leave me not alone, still support and comfort me!” + + +A moment before there had been shouting and confusion in the +driveway where some red-striped artillerymen were herding a squad of +gesticulating Chinamen as men herd sheep. The shouting died away as the +minister’s voice rose and fell and out of the stillness came the sobs of +women. One little woman in blue was making no sound, but the tears were +streaming down her cheeks. Her husband, a sturdy young fellow in his +shirt sleeves, put his arm about her shoulders and tried to comfort her +as the reading went on. + + +“All my trust on Thee is stayed; all my help from Thee I bring; Cover my +defenseless head with the shadow of Thy wing.” + + +Then the cornet took up the air again and those helpless persons +followed it in quivering tones, the white-haired man of God leading them +with closed eyes. When the last verse was over, the minister raised his +hands. + +“Let us pray,” said he, and his congregation sank down in the grass +before him. It was a simple prayer, such a prayer as might be offered by +a man without a home or a shelter over his head--and nothing left to him +but an unshaken faith in his Creator. + +“Oh, Lord, Thy ways are past finding out, but we still have faith in +Thee. We know not why Thou hast visited these people and left them +homeless. Thou knowest the reason of this desolation and of our utter +helplessness. We call on Thee for help in the hour of our great need. +Bless the people of this city, the sorrowing ones, the bereaved, gather +them under Thy mighty wing and soothe aching hearts this day.” + +The women were crying again, and one big man dug his knuckles into his +eyes without shame. The man who could have listened to such a prayer +unmoved was not in Golden Gate Park that day. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +The Frightful Loss of Life and Wealth. + + +While multitudes escaped from toppling buildings and crashing walls in +the dread disaster of that fatal Wednesday morning of April 18th in San +Francisco, hundreds of the less fortunate met their death in the ruins, +and horrifying scenes were witnessed by the survivors. Many of those who +escaped had tales of terror to tell. Mr. J. P. Anthony, as he fled from +the Ramona Hotel, saw a score or more of people crushed to death, and +as he walked the streets at a later hour saw bodies of the dead being +carried in garbage wagons and all kinds of vehicles to the improvised +morgues, while hospitals and storerooms were already filled with the +injured. Mr. G. A. Raymond, of Tomales, Cal., gives evidence to the same +effect. As he rushed into the street, he says that the air was filled +with falling stones and people around him were crushed to death on all +sides. + +Others gave testimony to the same effect. Samuel Wolf, of Salt Lake +City, tells us that he saved one woman from death in the hotel. She was +rushing blindly toward an open window, from which she would have fallen +fifty feet to the stone pavement below. “On my way down Market Street,” + he says, “the whole side of a building fell out and came so near me that +I was covered and blinded by the dust. Then I saw the first dead come +by. They were piled up in an automobile like carcasses in a butcher’s +wagon, all bloody, with crushed skulls, broken limbs and bloody faces.” + +These are frightful stories, exaggerated probably from the nervous +excitement of those terrible moments, as are also the following +statements, which form part of the early accounts of the disaster. Thus +we are told that “from a three-story lodging house at Fifth and Minna +Streets, which collapsed Wednesday morning, more than seventy-five +bodies were taken to-day. There are fifty other bodies in sight in the +ruins. This building was one of the first to take fire on Fifth Street. +At least 100 persons are said to have been killed in the Cosmopolitan, +on Fourth Street. More than 150 persons are reported dead in the +Brunswick Hotel, at Seventh and Mission Streets.” + +Another statement is to the effect that “at Seventh and Howard Streets +a great lodging house took fire after the first shock, before the guests +had escaped. There were few exits and nearly all the lodgers perished. +Mrs. J. J. Munson, one of those in the building, leaped with her child +in her arms from the second floor to the pavement below and escaped +unhurt. She says she was the only one who escaped from the house. Such +horrors as this were repeated at many points. B. Baker was killed while +trying to get a body from the ruins. Other rescuers heard the pitiful +wail of a little child, but were unable to get near the point from which +the cry issued. Soon the onrushing fire ended the cry and the men turned +to other tasks.” + + +ESTIMATES OF THE DEATH LIST. + + +The questionable point in those statements is that the numbers of dead +spoken of in these few instances exceed the whole number given in the +official records issued two weeks after the disaster. Yet they go to +illustrate the actual horrors of the case, and are of importance for +this reason. As regards the whole number killed, in fact, there is not, +and probably never will be, a full and accurate statement. While about +350 bodies had been recovered at the end of the second week, it was +impossible to estimate how many lay buried under the ruins, to be +discovered only as the work of excavation went on, and how many more +had been utterly consumed by the flames, leaving no trace of their +existence. The estimates of the probable loss of life ran up to 1,500 +and more, while the injured were very numerous. + +The shock of the earthquake, the pulse of deep horror to which it gave +rise, the first wild impulse to flee for life, gave way in the minds of +many to a feeling of intense sympathy as agonized cries came from those +pinned down to the ruins of buildings or felled by falling bricks or +stones, and as the sight of dead bodies incrimsoned with blood met the +eyes of the survivors in the streets. From wandering aimlessly about, +many of these went earnestly to work to rescue the wounded and recover +the bodies of the slain. In this merciful work the police and the +soldiers lent their aid, and soon there was a large corps of rescuers +actively engaged. + + +BURYING THE DEAD. + + +Soon numbers were taken, alive or dead, from the ruins, passing vehicles +were pressed into the service, and the labor of mercy went on rapidly, +several buildings being quickly converted into temporary hospitals, +while the dead were conveyed to the Mechanics’ Pavilion and other +available places. Portsmouth Square became for a time a public morgue. +Between twenty and thirty corpses were laid side by side upon the +trodden grass in the absence of more suitable accommodations. It is said +that when the flames threatened to reach the square, the dead, mostly +unknown, were removed to Columbia Square, where they were buried when +danger threatened that quarter. Others were taken to the Presidio, and +here the soldiers pressed into service all men who came near and forced +them to labor at burying the dead, a temporary cemetery being opened +there. So thick were the corpses piled up that they were becoming a +menace, and early in the day the order was issued to bury them at any +cost. The soldiers were needed for other work, so, at the point of +rifles, the citizens were compelled to take to the work of burying. Some +objected at first, but the troops stood no trifling, and every man +who came within reach was forced to work. Rich men, unused to physical +exertion, labored by the side of the workingmen digging trenches in +which to bury the dead. The able-bodied being engaged in fighting the +flames, General Funston ordered that the old men and the weaklings +should take the work in hand. They did it willingly enough, but had they +refused the troops on guard would have forced them. It was ruled that +every man physically capable of handling a spade or a pick should dig +for an hour. When the first shallow graves were ready the men, under the +direction of the troops, lowered the bodies, several in a grave, and +a strange burial began. The women gathered about crying. Many of them +knelt while a Catholic priest read the burial service and pronounced +absolution. All Thursday afternoon this went on. + +In this connection the following stories are told: + +Dr. George V. Schramm, a young medical graduate, said: + +“As I was passing down Market Street with a new-found friend, an +automobile came rushing along with two soldiers in it. My doctor’s badge +protected me, but the soldiers invited my companion, a husky six-footer, +to get into the automobile. He said: + +“‘I don’t want to ride, and have plenty of business to attend to.’ + +“Once more they invited him, and he refused. One of the soldiers pointed +a gun at him and said: + +“‘We need such men as you to save women and children and to help fight +the fire.’ + +“The man was on his way to find his sister, but he yielded to the +inevitable. He worked all day with the soldiers, and when released to +get lunch he felt that he could conscientiously desert to go and find +his own loved ones.” + +“Half a block down the street the soldiers were stopping all pedestrians +without the official pass which showed that they were on relief +business, and putting them to work heaving bricks off the pavement. Two +dapper men with canes, the only clean people I saw, were caught at the +corner by a sergeant, who showed great joy as he said: + +“‘I give you time to git off those kid gloves, and then hustle, damn +you, hustle!’ The soldiers took delight in picking out the best dressed +men and keeping them at the brick piles for long terms. I passed them +in the shelter of a provision wagon, afraid that even my pass would not +save me. Two men are reported shot because they refused to turn in and +help.” + +Many of the dead, of course, will never be identified, though the names +were taken of all who were known and descriptions written of the others. +A story comes to us of one young girl who had followed for two days the +body of her father, her only relative. It had been taken from a house +on Mission Street to an undertaker’s shop just after the quake. The fire +drove her out with her charge, and it was placed in Mechanics’ Pavilion. +That went, and the body rested for a day at the Presidio, waiting +burial. With many others, she wept on the border of the burned area, +while the women cared for her. + + +VICTIMS TAKEN FROM THE RUINS. + + +On Friday eleven postal clerks, all alive, were taken from the debris of +the Post Office. All at first were thought to be dead, but it was found +that, although they were buried under the stone and timber, every one +was alive. They had been for three days without food or water. + +Two theatrical people were in a hotel in Santa Rosa when the shock came. +The room was on the fourth floor. The roof collapsed. One of them was +thrown from the bed and both were caught by the descending timbers and +pinned helplessly beneath the debris. They could speak to each other and +could touch one another’s hands, but the weight was so great that they +could do nothing to liberate themselves. After three hours rescuers +came, cut a hole in the roof and both were released uninjured. + +Even the docks were converted into hospitals in the stringent exigency +of the occasion, about 100 patients being stretched on Folsom street +dock at one time. In the evening tugs conveyed them to Goat Island, +where they were lodged in the hospital. The docks from Howard Street to +Folsom Street had been saved, the fire at this point not being permitted +to creep farther east than Main Street. Another series of fatalities +occurred, caused by the stampeding of a herd of cattle at Sixth and +Folsom Streets. Three hundred of the panic-stricken animals ran amuck +when they saw and felt the flames and charged wildly down the street, +trampling under foot all who were in the way. One man was gored through +and through by a maddened bull. At least a dozen persons’, it is said, +were killed, though probably this is an overestimate. One observer tells +us that “the first sight I saw was a man with blood streaming from his +wounds, carrying a dead woman in his arms. He placed the body on the +floor of the court at the Palace Hotel, and then told me he was the +janitor of a big building. The first he knew of the catastrophe he found +himself in the basement, his dead wife beside him. The building had +simply split in two, and thrown them down.” + +In the camps of refuge the deaths came frequently. Physicians were +everywhere in evidence, but, without medicine or instruments, were +fearfully handicapped. Men staggered in from their herculean efforts at +the fire lines, only to fall gasping on the grass. There was nothing to +be done. Injured lay groaning. Tender hands were willing, but of water +there was none. “Water, water, for God’s sake get me some water,” was +the cry that struck into thousands of souls of San Francisco. + +The list of dead was not confined to San Francisco, but extended to many +of the neighboring towns, especially to Santa Rosa, where sixty were +reported dead and a large number missing, and to the insane asylum in +its vicinity, from the ruins of which a hundred or more of dead bodies +were taken. + + +THE FREE USE OF RIFLES. + + +A citizen tells us that “in the early part of the evening, and while +the twilight lasts, there is a good deal of trafficking up and down +the sidewalks. Having finished their dinners of government provisions, +cooked on the street or in the parks, the people promenade for half an +hour or so. By half-past eight the town is closed tight. A rat scurrying +in the street will bring a soldier’s rifle to his shoulder. Any one not +wearing a uniform or a Red Cross badge is a suspicious character and may +be shot unless he halts at command. Even the men in uniform do well to +stop still, for it is hard to tell a uniform in the half light thrown up +by the burning town and the great shadows. + +“Last night two of us ventured out on Van Ness Avenue a little late. +There came up the noise of some kind of a shooting scrape far down +the street. We hurried in that direction to see what was doing. An +eighteen-year-old boy in a uniform barred the way, levelled his rifle +and said in a peremptory way: + +“‘Go home.’ + +“We took a course down the block, where an older soldier, more +communicative but equally peremptory, informed us that we were trifling +with our lives, news or no news. + +“‘We’ve shot about 300 people for one thing or another,’ he said. ‘Now, +dodge trouble. Git!’ That ended the expedition.” + + +THE LOSS IN WEALTH. + + +If we pass now from the record of the loss of lives to that of the +destruction of wealth, the estimates exceed by far any fire losses +recorded in history. + +The truth is that when flames eat out the heart of a great city, devour +its vast business establishments, storehouses and warehouses, sweep +through its centres of opulence, destroy its wharves with their +accumulation of goods, spread ruin and havoc everywhere, it is +impossible at first to estimate the loss. Only gradually, as time goes +on, is the true loss discovered, and never perhaps very accurately, +since the owners and the records of riches often disappear with the +wealth itself. In regard to San Francisco, the early estimate was that +three-fourths of the city, valued at $500,000,000, was destroyed. + +But early estimates are apt to be exaggerated, and on Friday, two days +after the disaster, we find this estimate reduced to $250,000,000. A few +more days passed and these figures shrunk still further, though it was +still largely conjectural, the means of making a trustworthy estimate +being very restricted. Later on the pendulum swung upward again, and two +weeks after the fire the closest estimates that could be made fixed the +property loss at close to $350,000,000, or double that of the Chicago +fire. But as the actual loss in the latter case proved considerably +below the early estimates, the same may prove to be the case with San +Francisco. + +Special personal losses were in many cases great. Thus the Palace Hotel +was built at a cost of $6,000,000, and the St. Francis, which originally +cost $4,000,000, was being enlarged at great expense. Several of the +great mansions on Nob’s Hill cost a million or more, the City Hall was +built at a cost of $7,000,000, the new Post Office was injured to the +extent of half a million, while a large number of other buildings might +be named whose value, with their contents, was measured in the millions. + +It was not until May 3d that news came over the wires of another serious +item of loss. The merchants had waited until then for their fire-proof +safes and vaults to cool off before attempting to open them. When this +was at length done the results proved disheartening. Out of 576 vaults +and safes opened in the district east of Powell and north of Market +Street, where the flames had raged with the greatest fury, it was found +that fully forty per cent. had not performed their duty. When opened +they were found to contain nothing but heaps of ashes. The valuable +account books, papers and in some cases large sums of money had +vanished, the loss of the accounts being a severe calamity in a business +sense. As all the banks were equipped with the best fire-proof vaults, +no fear was felt for the safety of their contents. + + +LOOTERS IN CHINATOWN. + + +Chinatown suffered severely, the merchants of that locality possessing +large stocks of valuable goods, many of which were looted by seemingly +respectable sightseers after the ruins had cooled off, bronze, porcelain +and other valuable goods being taken from the ruins. One example +consisted in a mass of gold and silver valued at $2,500, which had been +melted by the fire in the store of Tai Sing, a Chinese merchant. This +was found by the police on May 3d in a place where it had been hidden by +looters. + +But with all its losses San Francisco does not despair. The spirit of +its citizens is heroic, and there are some hopeful signs in the air. The +insurances due are estimated to approximate $175,000,000, and there +are other moneys likely to be spent on building during the coming year, +making a total of over $200,000,000. Eastern capitalists also talk of +investing $100,000,000 of new capital in the rebuilding of the +city, while the San Francisco authorities have a project of issuing +$200,000,000 of municipal bonds, the payment to be guaranteed by the +United States Government. Thus, two weeks after the earthquake, daylight +was already showing strongly ahead and hope was fast beginning to +replace despair. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Wonderful Record of Thrilling Escapes. + + +Shuddering under the memories of what seems more like a nightmare than +actual reality to the survivors of this frightful calamity, they have +tried to picture in words far from adequate the days of terror and the +nights of horror that fell to the lot of the people of the Golden Gate +city and their guests. + +They recount the roar of falling structures and the groans and pitiful +cries of those pinned beneath the timbers of collapsing buildings. They +speak of their climbing over dead bodies heaped in the streets, and of +following tortuous ways to find the only avenue of escape--the ferry, +where men and women fought like infuriated animals, bent on escape from +a fiery furnace. + +These refugees tell of the great caravan composed of homeless persons +in its wild flight to the hills for safety, and in that great procession +women, harnessed to vehicles, trudging along and tugging at the shafts, +hauling all that was left of their earthly belongings, and a little food +that foresight told them would be necessary to stay the pangs of hunger +in the hours of misery that must follow. + +We give below an especially accurate picture from the description of the +well-known writer, Jane Tingley, who, an eye-witness of it all, did so +much to help the sufferers, and who, with all the unselfishness of true +American womanhood, sacrificed her own comfort and needs for those of +others. + +“May God be merciful to the women and children in this land of +desolation and despair!” she wrote on April 21st. + +“Men have done, are doing such deeds of sublime self-sacrifice, of +magnificent heroism, that deserve to make the title of American manhood +immortal in the pages of history. The rest lies with the Almighty. + +“I spent all of last night and to-day in that horror city across the +bay. I went from this unharmed city of plenty, blooming with abounding +health, thronged with happy mothers and joyous children, and spent hours +among the blackened ruins and out on the windswept slopes of the sand +hills by the sea, and I heard the voice of Rachel weeping for her +children in the wilderness and mourning because she found them not. + +“I climbed to the top of Strawberry Hill, in Golden Gate Park, and saw +a woman, half naked, almost starving, her hair dishevelled and an +unnatural lustre in her eyes, her gaze fixed upon the waters in the +distance, and her voice repeating over and over again: ‘Here I am, my +pretties; come here, come here.’ + +“I took her by the hand and led her down to the grass at the foot of the +hill. A man--her husband--received her from me and wept as he said: ‘She +is calling our three little children. She thinks the sounds of the ocean +waves are the voices of our lost darlings.’ + +“Ever since they became separated from their children in that first +terrific onrush of the multitude when the fire swept along Mission +Street these two had been tramping over the hills and parks without food +or rest, searching for their little ones. To all whom they have met they +have addressed the same pitiful question: ‘Have you seen anything of our +lost babies?’ They will not know what has become of them until order has +been brought out of chaos; until the registration headquarters of the +military authorities has secured the names of all who are among the +straggling wanderers around the camps of the homeless. Perhaps then it +will be found that these children are in a trench among the corpses of +the weaklings who have succumbed to the frightful rigors of the last +three days. + +“Last night a soldier seized me by the arm and cried: ‘If you are a +woman with a woman’s heart, go in there and do whatever you can.’ + +“‘In there’ meant behind a barricade of brush, covered with a blanket +that had been hastily thrown together to form a rude shelter. I went in +and saw one of my own sex lying on the bare grass naked, her clothing +torn to shreds; scattered over the green beside her. She was moaning +pitifully, and it needed no words to tell a woman what the matter was, +I bade my man escort to find a doctor, or at least send more women +at once. He ran off and soon two sympathetic ladies hastened into the +shelter. In an hour my escort returned with a young medical student. +Under the best ministrations we could find, a new life was ushered into +this hell, which, a few hours before, was the fairest among cities. + +“‘There have been many such cases,’ said the medical student. ‘Many of +the mothers have died--few of the babies have lived. I, personally, know +of nine babies that have been born in the park to-day. There must have +been many others here, among the sand hills, and at the Presidio.’” + +“Think of it, you happy women who have become mothers in comfortable +homes, attended with every care that loving hands can bestow. Think of +the dreadful plight of these poor members of your sex. The very thought +of it is enough to make the hearts of women burst with pity. + +“To-day I walked among the people crowded on the Panhandle. Opposite +the Lyon Street entrance, on the north side, I saw a young woman sitting +tailor-fashion in the roadway, which, in happier days, was the carriage +boulevard. She held a dishpan and was looking at her reflection in the +polished bottom, while another girl was arranging her hair. I recognized +a young wife, whose marriage to a prominent young lawyer eight months +ago was a gala event among that little handful of people who clung to +the old-time fashionable district of Valencia Street, like the Phelan +and Dent families, and refused to move from that aristocratic section +when the new-made, millionaires began to build their palaces on Nob Hill +and Pacific Heights. I spoke to the young woman about the disadvantages +of making her toilet under such untoward circumstances. + +“‘Ah, Julia, dear, you must stay to luncheon,’ she said, extending her +fingers just as though she stood in her own drawing-room.” + + +MISERY DRIVES SOME INSANE. + + +“I looked at the maid in astonishment, for I had never met the young +society woman before. The maid shook her head and whispered when she got +the chance: + +“‘My mistress is not in her right mind.’ + +“‘Where is her husband?’ I asked. + +“‘He has gone to try to get some food,’ said the girl. ‘She imagines +that she is in her own home, before her dressing table, and is having me +do up her hair against some of her friends dropping in.’ + +“‘She must have suffered,’ I said, ‘to cause such a mental derangement.’ + +“The girl’s eyes filled with tears. She told me that her mistress had +seen her brother killed by falling timbers while they were hurrying to +a place of safety. A little farther on I saw two women concealed as best +they might be behind a tuft of sand brush, one lying face down on the +ground, while the other vigorously massaged her bare back. I asked if +I might help, and learned that the ministering angel was the unmarried +daughter of one of the city’s richest merchants, and that the girl whom +she succored had been employed as a servant in her father’s household. +The girl’s back had been injured by a fall, and her mistress’ fair hands +were trying to make her well again. + +“Thus has this overwhelming common woe levelled all barriers of caste +and placed the suffering multitude on a basis of democracy. On a rock +behind a manzanita bush near the edge of Stow Lake I saw a Chinaman +making a pile of broken twigs in the early morning. The man felt inside +his blouse and swore a gibbering, unintelligible Asiatic oath as his +hand came forth empty. Observing my escort, the Chinaman approached and +said: + +“‘Bosse, alle same, catchee match?’ + +“My escort gave him the desired article, and the Chinaman made a fire of +his pile of twigs. ‘Why are you making a fire, John?’ I asked. + +“‘Bleakfast,’ he replied laconically. + +“I asked him where his food might be, and he gave us a quick glance of +suspicion as he said briefly, ‘No sabbe.’ + +“We stood watching him, evidently to his great distress, and finally he +made bold to say, ‘You no stand lound, bosse. You go ‘way.’ + +“We left him, but after making the tour around the lake came back to +the same place. There sat four people on the ground eating fried pork, +potatoes and Chinese cakes. In a young woman of the group I recognized +one whom I had seen dancing at one of Mr. Greenway’s Friday Night +Cotillion balls in the Palace Hotel’s maple room during the winter. They +offered to share their meal with us, but we told them that we had just +come from breakfast in Oakland. I told them about the strange conduct +of their Chinaman, who was traveling back and forth from his fire to the +‘table’ with the food as it became ready to serve. + +“The father of the family laughed.” + + +SOCIETY FOLKS COMPELLED TO CAMP. + + +“‘Yes,’ he said, ‘that is Charlie’s way. He has been with us many years, +and when our home was destroyed he came out here with us in preference +to seeking refuge among his countrymen in Chinatown. Yesterday we were +without food, and Charlie disappeared. I thought he had deserted us, +but toward dark he came back with a bamboo pole over his shoulder and +a Chinese market gardener’s basket suspended from either end. In one of +the baskets he had a pile of blankets and a lot of canvas. In the other +was an assortment of pork, flour, Chinese cakes and vegetables, besides +a half-dozen chickens and a couple of bagfuls of rice.’ + +“‘Charlie had been foraging in Chinatown for us before the fire reached +that quarter. He made a tent and improvised beds for us, and he has the +food concealed somewhere in the vicinity, but where he will not tell +us, for fear that we will give some of it to others and reduce our own +supply. Charlie boils rice for himself. He will not touch the other +food. Without him we should have been starving.’” + +G. A. Raymond, who was in the Palace Hotel when the earthquake occurred, +says: + +“I had $600 in gold under my pillow. I awoke as I was thrown out of +bed. Attempting to walk, the floor shook so that I fell. I grabbed my +clothing and rushed down into the office, where dozens were already +congregated. Suddenly the lights went out, and every one rushed for the +door. + +“Outside I witnessed a sight I never want to see again. It was dawn +and light. I looked up. The air was filled with falling stones. People +around me were crushed to death on all sides. All around the huge +buildings were shaking and waving. Every moment there were reports like +100 cannon going off at one time. Then streams of fire would shoot out, +and other reports followed. + +“I asked a man standing by me what had happened. Before he could answer +a thousand bricks fell on him and he was killed. A woman threw her arms +around my neck. I pushed her away and fled. All around me buildings were +rocking and flames shooting. As I ran people on all sides were crying, +praying and calling for help. I thought the end of the world had come. + +“I met a Catholic priest, and he said: ‘We must get to the ferry.’ He +knew the way, and we rushed down Market Street. Men, women and children +were crawling from the debris. Hundreds were rushing down the street, +and every minute people were felled by falling debris. + +“At places the streets had cracked and opened. Chasms extended in all +directions. I saw a drove of cattle, wild with fright, rushing up Market +Street. I crouched beside a swaying building. As they came nearer they +disappeared, seeming to drop into the earth. When the last had gone I +went nearer and found they had indeed been precipitated into the earth, +a wide fissure having swallowed them. I worked my way around them and +ran out to the ferry. I was crazy with fear and the horrible sights. + +“How I reached the ferry I cannot say. It was bedlam, pandemonium and +hell rolled into one. There must have been 10,000 people trying to get +on that boat. Men and women fought like wild cats to push their way +aboard. Clothes were torn from the backs of men and women and children +indiscriminately. Women fainted, and there was no water at hand with +which to revive them. Men lost their reason at those awful moments. One +big, strong man, beat his head against one of the iron pillars on the +dock, and cried out in a loud voice: ‘This fire must be put out! The +city must be saved!’ It was awful.” + + +TERRIBLE SCENE AT THE FERRY. + + +“When the gates were opened the mad rush began. All were swept aboard in +an irresistible tide. We were jammed on the deck like sardines in a +box. No one cared. At last the boat pulled out. Men and women were still +jumping for it, only to fall into the water and probably drown.” + +The members of the Metropolitan Opera Company, of New York, were in San +Francisco at this time, and nearly all of these famous singers, known +all over the world, suffered from the great disaster. + +All of the splendid scenery, stage fittings, costumes and musical +instruments were lost in the fire, which destroyed the Grand Opera +House, where the season had just opened to splendid audiences. + +Many of the operatic stars have given very interesting accounts of their +experiences. Signor Caruso, the famous tenor and one of the principals +of the company, had one of the most thrilling experiences. He and Signor +Rossi, a favorite basso, and his inseparable companion, had a suite +on the seventh floor and were awakened by the terrific shaking of the +building. The shock nearly threw Caruso out of bed. He said: + +“I threw open the window, and I think I let out the grandest notes I +ever hit in all my life. I do not know why I did this. I presume I was +too excited to do anything else.” + + +GREAT SINGERS ESCAPE. + + +“Looking out of the window, I saw buildings all around rocking like the +devil had hold of them. I wondered what was going on. Then I heard Rossi +come scampering into my room. ‘My God, it’s an earthquake!’ he yelled. +‘Get your things and run!’ I grabbed what I could lay my hands on and +raced like a madman for the office. On the way down I shouted as loud as +I could so the others would wake up. + +“When I got to the office I thought of my costumes and sent my valet, +Martino, back after them. He packed things up and carried the trunks +down on his back. I helped him take them to Union Square.” + +It is said that ten minutes later he was seen seated on his valise in +the middle of the street. But to continue his story: + +“I walked a few feet away to see how to get out, and when I came back +four Chinamen were lugging my trunks away. I grabbed one of them by the +ears, and the others jumped on me. I took out my revolver and pointed +it at them. They spit at me. I was mad, but I hated to kill them, so I +found a soldier, and he made them give up the trunks. + +“Ah, that soldier was a fine fellow. He went up to the Chinamen and +slapped them upon the face, once, twice, three times. They all howled +like the devil and ran away. I put my revolver back into my pocket, and +then I thanked the soldier. He said: ‘Don’t mention it. Them Chinks +would steal the money off a dead man’s eyes.’” + +They say that Rossi, though almost in tears, was heard trying his voice +at a corner near the Palace Hotel. + + +TEDDY’S PICTURE PROVES “OPEN SESAME.” + + +“I went to Lafayette Square and slept on the grass. When I tried to get +into the square the soldiers pushed me back. I pleaded with them, but +they would not listen. I had under my arm a large photograph of Theodore +Roosevelt, upon which was written: ‘With kindest regards from Theodore +Roosevelt.’ I showed them this, and one of them said: ‘If you are a +friend of Teddy, come in and make yourself at home.’ + +“I put my trunks in the cellar of the Hotel St. Francis and thought they +would be safe. The hotel caught fire, and my trunks were all burned up. +To think I took so much trouble to save them!” + +In spite of the news of all the woe and suffering which we hear, it is +cheering to learn also of the many thousands of heroic deeds by brave +men during the terrible scenes enacted through the four days passing +since the eventful morning when the earth began to demolish splendid +buildings of business and residence and fire sprang up to complete the +city’s destruction. The Mayor and his forces of police, the troops +under command of General Funston, volunteer aids to all these, and the +husbands of terrified wives, and the sons, brothers and other relatives +who toiled for many consecutive hours through smoke and falling walls +and an inferno of flames and explosions and traps of danger of all +kinds, often without food or water--toiling as men never toiled before +to save life and relieve distress of all kinds--all these were examples +of heroism and devotion to duty seldom witnessed in any scenes of terror +in all time. There are brave, unselfish men and heroic women yet in the +world, and all of the best of human nature has been exhibited in large +dimensions in the terrible disaster at San Francisco. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Disaster Spreads Over the Golden State + + +The first news that the world received of the earthquake came direct +from San Francisco and was confined largely to descriptions of +the disaster which had overwhelmed that city. It was so sudden, so +appalling, so tragic in its nature, that for the time being it +quite overshadowed the havoc and misery wrought in a number of other +California towns of lesser note. + +As the truth, however, became gradually sifted out of the tangle of +rumors, the horror, instead of being diminished, was vastly increased. +It became evident that instead of this being a local catastrophe, the +full force of the seismic waves had travelled from Ukiah in the north +to Monterey in the south, a distance of about 180 miles, and had made +itself felt for a considerable distance from the Pacific westward, +wrecking the larger buildings of every town in its path, rending and +ruining as it went, and doing millions of dollars worth of damage. + + +THE DESTRUCTION OF SANTA ROSA. + + +In Santa Rosa, sixty miles to the north of San Francisco, and one of +the most beautiful towns of California, practically every building +was destroyed or badly damaged. The brick and stone business blocks, +together with the public buildings, were thrown down. The Court House, +Hall of Records, the Occidental and Santa Rosa Hotels, the Athenaeum +Theatre, the new Masonic Temple, Odd Fellows’ Block, all the banks, +everything went, and in all the city not one brick or stone building was +left standing, except the California Northwestern Depot. + +In the residential portion of the city the foundations receded from +under the houses, badly wrecking about twenty of the largest and +damaging every one more or less; and here, as in San Francisco, flames +followed the earthquake, breaking out in a dozen different places at +once and completing the work of devastation. From the ruins of the +fallen houses fifty-eight bodies were taken out and interred during +the first few days, and the total of dead and injured was close to a +hundred. The money loss at this small city is estimated at $3,000,000. + +The destruction of Santa Rosa gave rise to general sorrow among the +residents of the interior of the State. It was one of the show towns of +California, and not only one of the most prosperous cities in the +fine county of Sonoma, but one of the most picturesque in the State. +Surrounding it there were miles of orchards, vineyards and corn fields. +The beautiful drives of the city were adorned with bowers of roses, +which everywhere were seen growing about the homes of the people. In +its vicinity are the famous gardens of Luther Burbank, the “California +wizard,” but these fortunately escaped injury. + +At San Jose, another very beautiful city of over 20,000 population, +not a single brick or stone building of two stories or over was left +standing. Among those wrecked were the Hall of justice, just completed +at a cost of $300,000; the new High School, the Presbyterian Church and +St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Numbers of people were caught in the ruins and +maimed or killed. The death list appears to have been small, but the +property damage was not less than $5,000,000. The Agnew State Insane +Asylum, in the vicinity of San Jose, was entirely destroyed, more than +half the inmates being killed or injured. + + +THE STANFORD UNIVERSITY. + + +The Leland Stanford, Jr., University, at Palo Alto (about thirty miles +south of San Francisco), felt the full force of the earthquake and was +badly wrecked. Only two lives were lost as a result of the earthquake, +one of a student, the other of a fireman, but eight students were +injured more or less seriously. The damage to the buildings is estimated +by President Jordan to amount to about $4,000,000. + +The memorial church, with its twelve marble figures of the apostles, +each weighing two tons, was badly injured by the fall of its Gothic +spire, which crashed through the roof and demolished much of the +interior; the great entrance archway was split in twain and wrecked; so, +too, were the library, the gymnasium and the power house. A number of +other buildings in the outer quadrangle and some of the small workshops +were seriously damaged. + +Encina Hall and the inner quadrangle were practically uninjured, and the +bulk of the books, collections and apparatus escaped damage. + +Sacramento, together with all the smaller cities and towns that dot the +great Sacramento Valley for a distance fifty miles south and 150 miles +north of the capital, escaped without injury, not a single pane of glass +being broken or a brick displaced in Sacramento and no injury done in +the other places, they lying eastward of the seat of serious earthquake +activity. + +Los Angeles and Santa Barbara escaped with a slight trembling; Stockton, +103 miles north of San Francisco, felt a severe shock and the Santa Fe +bridge over the San Joaquin River at this point settled several inches. +The only place in Southern California that suffered was Brawley, a small +town lying 120 miles south of Los Angeles, about 100 buildings in the +town and the surrounding valley being injured, though none of them were +destroyed. + + +THE EARTHQUAKE AT OTHER CITIES. + + +At Alameda, on the bay opposite San Francisco, a score of chimneys were +shaken down and other injuries done. Railroad tracks were twisted, and +over 600 feet of track of the Oakland Transit Company’s railway sank +four feet. The total damage done amounted to probably $200,000, but no +lives were lost. Tomales, a place of 350 inhabitants, was left a pile of +ruins. + +At Los Panos several buildings were wrecked, causing damage to the +extent of $75,000, but no lives were lost. + +At Loma Prieta the earthquake caused a mine house to slip down the side +of a mountain, ten men being buried in the ruins. + +Fort Bragg, one of the principal lumbering towns in Mendocino County, +was practically wiped out by fire following the earthquake, but out of a +population of 5,000 only one was killed, though scores were injured. + +The town of Berkeley, across the bay from San Francisco, suffered +considerable damage from twisted structures, fallen walls and broken +chimneys, the greatest injury being in the collapse of the town hall +and the ruin of the deaf and dumb asylum. The University of California, +situated here, was fortunate in escaping injury, it being reported +that not a building was harmed in the slightest degree. Another public +edifice of importance and interest, in a different section of the State, +the famous Lick Astronomical Observatory, was equally fortunate, no +damage being done to the buildings or the instruments. + + +AT THE STATE UNIVERSITY. + + +Salinas, a town down the coast near Monterey, suffered severely, the +place being to a large extent destroyed, with an estimated loss of over +$1,000,000. The Spreckels’ sugar factory and a score of other buildings +were reported ruined and a number of lives lost. During the succeeding +week several other shocks of some strength were reported from this town. + +Thus the ruinous work of the earthquake stretched over a broad track +of prosperous, peaceful and happy country, embracing one of the best +sections of California, laying waste not only the towns in its path, +but doing much damage to ranch houses and country residences. Strange +manifestations of nature were reported from the interior, where the +ground was opened in many places like a ploughed field. Great rents +in the earth were reported, and for many miles north from Los Angeles +miniature geysers are said to have spouted volcano-like streams of hot +mud. + +Railroad tracks in some localities were badly injured, sinking or +lifting, and being put out of service until repaired. In fact, the +ruinous effects of the earthquake immensely exceeded those of any +similar catastrophe ever before known in the United States, and when +the destruction done by the succeeding conflagration in San Francisco is +taken into account the California earthquake of 1906 takes rank with the +most destructive of those recorded in history. + + + +CHAPTER X. + +All America and Canada to the Rescue + + +During the first three days after the terrible news had been flashed +over the world the relief fund from the nation had leaped beyond the +$5,000,000 mark. New York took the lead in the most generous giving that +the world has ever seen. From every town and country village the people +hastened to the Town Halls, the newspaper offices and wherever help was +to be found most quickly, to add their savings and to sacrifice all but +necessities for their stricken fellow-countrymen. Never has there been +such a practical illustration of brotherly love. A perfect shower of +gold and food was poured out to the sufferers to give them immediate +assistance and to help them to a new start in life. All relief records +were broken within two days of the disaster, but still the purses of the +rich and poor alike continued to add to the huge contributions. Though +the relief records were broken, every succeeding dispatch from the West +told too plainly the terrible fact that all records of necessity were +also broken. + +Over the entire globe Americans wherever they were hastened to cable or +telegraph their bankers to add their share to the great work. A large +fund was at once started in London, and with contributions of from +$2,000 to $12,000 the sum was soon raised to hundreds of thousands of +dollars. + +Individual contributions of $100,000 were common. In addition to John +D. Rockefeller’s gift of this sum, his company, the Standard Oil, gave +another $100,000. The Steel Corporation and Andrew Carnegie each +gave $100,000. From London William Waldorf Astor cabled his American +representative, Charles A. Peabody, to place $100,000 at once at +the disposal of Mayor Schmitz, of San Francisco, which was done. The +Dominion Government of Canada made a special appropriation of $100,000 +and the Canadian Bank of Commerce, at Toronto, gave $10,000. And two of +the great steamship companies owned in Germany sent $25,000 each. + + +RIGHT OF WAY FOR FOOD TRAINS. + + +On nearly a dozen roads, two days before the fire was over, great trains +of freight cars loaded with foodstuffs were hastening at express +speed to San Francisco. They had the right of way on every line. E. H. +Harriman, in addition to giving $200,000 for the Union Pacific, Southern +Pacific and other Harriman roads, issued orders that all relief trains +bound for the desolated city should have Precedence over all other +business of the roads. + +Advices from many points indicated that at least 150 freight cars loaded +with the necessaries so eagerly awaited in San Francisco were speeding +there as fast as steam could drive them. In addition, several steamers +from other Pacific coast points, all food-laden, were rushing toward the +stricken city. + +The rapidity with which the various relief funds in every city grew was +almost magical. + +From corporations, firms, labor unions, religious societies, +individuals, rich and poor, money flowed. Even the children in the +schools gave their pennies. Every grade of society, every branch of +trade and commerce seemed inspired by a spirit of emulation in giving. + +The United States Government at once voted a contribution of $1,000,000, +and government supplies were rushed from every post in the West. + +The $1,000,000 government gift, which formed the nucleus of the relief +fund, was doubled on Saturday by a resolution appropriating another, and +a vote was taken on Monday to increase this sum to $1,500,000, making a +total government contribution of $2,500,000. This was largely expended +in supplies of absolute necessaries, furnished from the stores of the +War Department, and those first sent being five carloads of army medical +supplies from St. Louis. A cargo of evaporated cream was also sent to +use in the care of little children, while the Red Cross Society shipped +a carload of eggs from Chicago. Dr. Edward Devine, special Red Cross +agent in San Francisco, was appointed to distribute these supplies. + + +CARGOES OF SUPPLIES. + + +Trainloads of other supplies were dispatched in all haste from various +points in the West and East, carrying provisions of all kinds, tents, +cots, clothing, bedding and a great variety of other articles. A special +train of twenty-six cars was dispatched from Portland, Oregon, on +Thursday night, conveying ten doctors, twenty trained nurses and 800,000 +pounds of provisions. Chicago sent meat. Minneapolis sent flour, and, +in fact, every part of the country moved in the greatest haste for the +relief of the stricken city. + +There was urgent need of haste. On Friday, while the flames were still +making their way onward, General Funston telegraphed: “Famine seems +inevitable.” The people of the country took a more hopeful view of it, +and by Saturday night the spectre of famine was definitely driven from +the field and food for all the fugitives was within reach. + + +THE SYMPATHY OF THE PEOPLE AWAKES. + + +On all sides the people were awake and doing. In all the great +cities agencies to receive contributions were opened, and many of the +newspapers undertook the task of collecting and forwarding supplies. The +smaller towns were equally alert in furnishing their quota to the good +work, and from countryside and village contributions were forwarded +until the fund accumulated to an unprecedented amount. Collections were +made in factories, in stores, in offices, in the public schools; cash +boxes or globes stood in all frequented places and were rapidly filled +with bank notes; theatrical and musical entertainments were given for +the benefit of the earthquake sufferers; never had there been such an +awakening. As an instance of the spirit displayed, one man came running +into a banking house and threw a thousand dollar bill on the counter. + +“For San Francisco,” he said, as he turned toward the door. + +“What name?” asked the teller. + +“Put it down to ‘cash,’” he answered, as he vanished. + +Rapidly the fund accumulated. A few days brought it up to the $5,000,000 +mark. Then it grew to $10,000,000. Within ten days’ time the relief fund +was estimated at $18,000,000, and the good work was still going on--in +less profusion, it is true, but still the spirit was alive. + + +FOREIGN OFFERS OF AID. + + +The generous impulse was not confined to the United States. From all +countries came offers of aid. Canada was promptly in the field, and +the chief nations of Europe were quick to follow, while Japan made a +generous offer, and in far Australia funds were started at the various +cities for the sufferers. No doubt a large sum from foreign lands would +have been available had not President Roosevelt declined to accept +contributions from abroad, as not needed in view of America’s abundant +response. To the Hamburg-Line which offered $25,000, the following +letter was sent: + +“The President deeply appreciates your message of sympathy, and desires +me to thank you heartily for the kind offer of outside aid. Although +declining, the President earnestly wishes you to understand how much he +appreciates your cordial and generous sympathy.” + +All other offerings from abroad were in the same thankful spirit +declined, even those from our immediate neighbors, Canada and Mexico. +Some feeling was aroused by this, especially in the relief committee at +San Francisco, which felt that the need of that city was so great and +urgent that no offer of relief should have been declined. In response +the President explained that he only spoke for the government, in his +official capacity, and that San Francisco was in no sense debarred from +accepting any contributions made directly to it. + +It may justly be said for the people of this country that their +spontaneous generosity in the presence of a great calamity, either at +home or abroad, is always magnificent. It never waits for solicitation. +It does not delay even until the necessity is demonstrated, but it +assumes that where there is great destruction of property and homes are +swept away there must be distress which calls for immediate relief. + +There is one ray of light in the gloom caused by the calamity at San +Francisco. A truly splendid display of brotherly love and sympathy has +been shown by the people of this country, and a similar display was +ready to be shown by the people of the civilized world had it been felt +that the occasion demanded it and that the exigency surpassed the power +of our people to meet it. + + +ENTERPRISE IN SAN FRANCISCO. + + +In the face of an appalling and death-dealing disaster, rendering an +entire community dependent for the bare necessities of life and putting +it in imminent danger of greater horrors, the nation has been stirred +as it has rarely been before, and there have been awakened those deeper +feelings of brotherhood which are referred to in the oft-quoted passage +that “one touch of nature makes the whole world akin.” + +The nature indicated in this instance is human nature in its highest +manifestation, the sympathetic sentiment that stirs deeply in all our +hearts and needs but the occasion to make itself warmly manifested. +There is something incomparably splendid in the spectacle of an entire +nation straining every nerve to send succor to the helpless and the +suffering, and this spectacle has warmed the hearts of our people to the +uttermost and inspired them to make the most strenuous efforts to drive +away the gaunt wolf of famine from the ruined homes of our far Pacific +brethren. + +It may be said that San Francisco will be willing to accept this relief +only so long as stern necessity demands it. At this writing only two +weeks have passed since the dread calamity, and already active steps +are being taken to provide for themselves. As an example of their +enterprise, it may be said that their newspapers hardly suspended at +all, the Evening Post alone suspending publication for a time from +being unable to acquire a plant in the vicinity of the city. When the +conflagration made it apparent that all plants would be destroyed, the +Bulletin put at work a force in its composing rooms, a hand-bill was +set and some hundreds of copies run off on the proof-press, giving the +salient features of the day’s news. + +The morning papers, the Call, Chronicle and Examiner, retired to +Oakland, on the other side of the bay, and there, on Thursday morning, +issued a joint paper from the office of the Oakland Tribune. On Friday +morning they split forces again, the Examiner retaining the use of the +Tribune plant and the Call and Chronicle issuing from the office of +the Oakland Herald. Two days later the Call secured the service of +the Oakland Enquirer plant. Meantime, on Friday, the Bulletin, after a +suspension of one day, made arrangements for the use in the afternoon +of the Oakland Herald equipment, and from these sources and under such +circumstances the San Francisco papers have been issuing. + +Offices were hurriedly opened on Fillmore Street, which today is the +main thoroughfare of San Francisco, and from these headquarters the news +of the day as it is gathered is transmitted by means of automobiles and +ferry service to the Oakland shore. + +There also were accepted such advertisements as had been offered. The +number of these was, perhaps, the best visual sign of the resurrection +of the new city. It was noted that in a fourteen-page paper printed +within two weeks after the fire by the Examiner there were over nine +pages of advertisements, and in a sixteen-page paper published by the +Chronicle at least fifty per cent. of its space was devoted to the same +end. + +Many of the larger factories left unharmed were also quick to start +work. At the Union Iron Works 2,300 men were promptly employed, and the +management expected within a fortnight to have the full complement of +its force, nearly 4,000 men, engaged. No damage was done to the three +new warships being built at these works for the government, the cruisers +California and Milwaukee and the battleship South Dakota. The steamer +City of Puebla, which was sunk in the bay, has been raised and is being +repaired. Workmen are also engaged fixing the steamship Columbia, which +was turned on her side. The hulls of the new Hawaiian-American Steamship +Company’s liners were pitched about four feet to the south, but were +uninjured and only need to be replaced in position. + +As for the working people at large, those without funds for their own +support, abundant employment will quickly be provided for them in the +necessary work of clearing away the debris, thus opening the way to a +resumption of business and reducing the number requiring relief. The +ukase has already been issued that all able-bodied men needing aid must +go to work or leave the city. + +This dictum of Chief of Police Dinan’s will be strictly enforced. The +relief work and distribution of food and clothing are attracting a +certain element to the city which does not desire to labor, while some +already here prefer to live on the generosity of others. Chief Dinan has +determined that those who apply for relief and refuse work when it +is offered them shall leave the city or be arrested for vagrancy. The +police judges have suggested establishing a chain gang and putting all +vagrants and petty offenders at work clearing up the ruins. + +Perhaps never in the history of the city has there been so little crime +in San Francisco. With the saloons closed, Chinatown, the Barbary Coast, +and other haunts of criminals wiped out, and soldiers and marines on +almost every block in the residence districts, there have been few +crimes of any kind. It is the opinion of the police that most of the +criminal element has left the city. The saloons, in all probability will +remain closed for two more months. + + +THE PROBLEM OF THE CHINESE. + + +In conclusion of this chapter it is advisable to refer to the situation +of one of the elements of San Francisco’s population, the people of +Chinatown. One of the problems facing the relief committees on both +sides of the bay is the sheltering of the Chinese. Many of them are +destitute. It has long been a question in San Francisco what should be +done with Chinatown, and moving the Chinese in the direction of Colma +has been agitated. Now they are without homes and without prospects of +procuring any. They can get no land. The limits of Oakland’s Chinatown +have already been extended, and the strictest police regulations are in +force to prevent further enlargement. On this side of the bay they are +camping in open lots. Unless the government undertakes their relief, +they are in grave danger. Those who have money cannot purchase property, +as no one will sell to them. Few, however, even of the wealthiest +merchants in Chinatown, saved anything of value, for their wealth was +invested in the Oriental village which had sprung up in the heart of the +area burned. + +Yet it is the desire of the municipality not to harass this portion of +its foreign population, and the vexatious problem of placing the new +Chinatown will probably be settled to the satisfaction of the Chinese +colony. This colony diverts an important part of the trade of San +Francisco to that city, and if its members are dealt with unjustly there +is danger of losing this trade. The question is one that must be left +for the future to decide, but no doubt care will be taken that a new +Chinatown with the unsavory conditions of the old shall not arise. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +San Francisco of the Past + + +The story of San Francisco’s history and tragedy appeal with +extraordinary force to the imagination of all civilized men. For several +generations the city was looked upon as an Arabian Night’s dream--a +place where gold lay in the streets and joy and happiness were +unlimited. Its settlement, or, rather, its real rise as a city, was as +by magic. It was first a city of tents, of shanties, of “shacks,” lying +on the rim of a great, spacious bay. Ships of all sizes and rigs brought +gold-seekers and provisions from the East, all the way round Cape Horn, +after voyages of weary months, and at San Francisco their crews deserted +and hundreds of these craft were left at their moorings to rot. Ashore +was a riot of money, prodigious extravagance, mean, shabby appointments, +sudden riches, great disappointment, revelry, improvidence and suicide. + +The streets that now lay squares from the water were then at the water’s +edge and batteaus brought cargoes ashore. Long wharves--one was for +years called the Long Wharf even after there were others built much +longer--led out over the shallow water. These shallows were later filled +and streets built upon them, and upon them arose warehouses, hotels, +factories, lodging houses and business places. + +The city grew rapidly in the direction away from the bay. But in its +early days it was a city with no confidence in its own stability, and +its buildings were accordingly unstable. A few minor earthquakes shook +some of these down years ago and established in the minds of the people +a horror of earthquakes. Frame houses became the rule. + +In its ensuing life San Francisco developed the attributes of a city of +gayety tempered by business. The population, for the most part, affected +light-hearted scorn of money, or, rather, of saving money. It made +mirth of life, habituated itself to expect windfalls such as miners +and prospectors dream of, developed a moderate amount of business, and +enjoyed the day while there was sunlight and the night when there was +artificial light. The windfalls grew less frequent, mining became a +costly and scientific process, and agriculture succeeded it. But, though +it was only necessary to tickle the land with a hoe and pour water upon +the tickled spot, to have it laugh with two, three or even four harvests +a year, agriculturists continued scarce. The Chinese truck farms, some +of which lay within the city’s lines, supplied the small fruits and +vegetables. Across the bay white men farmed, and grapes, fruits, +vegetables and flowers of prodigious variety and monstrous dimensions +were grown. But Eastern men came to do the farming. The Californian who +himself was an “Argonaut,” or whose father was an Argonaut, found no +attractions in the steady labor of farming. + +There followed a period of depression, ascribed by many to the influx of +the Chinese and their effect upon the labor market, though the army of +the unemployed were as a rule unwilling to do the work their Celestial +rivals engaged in, that of truck farming, fruit raising, manual +household labor, wood cutting and the like. A heavy weight settled on +the city; business grew slack; the army of the unemployed, of ruined +speculators and moneyless newcomers grew steadily greater, and for an +era San Francisco saw its dark side. + +But this was not a long duration. There was fast developing a new and +important business, resulting from the development of the real resources +of the State--the fruits, particularly the citrous fruits that grew +abundantly in the warm valley. Fortunes were made in oranges, lemons, +limes, grapes, almonds and pears. Raisins, whose size defied anything +heretofore known, were made from the huge grapes that grew in the San +Joaquin Valley. Sonoma sent its grapes to be made into wine. Capital +flowed in from every side. Eastern men in search of health, others in +search of wealth, came to the Golden State. No matter who came, where +they came from, or where they were going, they spent a few days, or +many, and some money, or much, in “‘Frisco.” The enterprise of the +second edition pioneers quickly transformed the State and city. + + +AGRICULTURE BRINGS NEW WEALTH. + + +Luxury was startling. San Francisco’s mercantile community equaled the +best, the stores and shops were as beautiful as anywhere in the +world and proportionately as well patronized. Theatres, music halls, +restaurants, hotel bars and the like were ablaze with lights at night, +and patronized by a gay throng. Sutro’s bath, near the Cliff House, was +a species of entertainment unequaled anywhere. The Presidio, as the army +post is still known, as in the Spanish nomenclature, gave its drills, +regarded as free exhibitions for the people. Golden Gate Park was an +endless daily picnic ground. + +The crowds in the streets of San Francisco were noticeably well dressed +and usually gay, without that fixed, drawn, saturnine look noticeable +among the people of the East. It is doubtful whether, upon the whole, +the earnings of the San Francisco man equaled those of his Eastern +brother, but his holidays were frequent and his joys greater. The grind +of life was not yet steady--men had not become mere machines. + +The climate of California is peculiar; it is hard to give an impression +of it. In the first place, all the forces of nature work on laws of +their own in that part of California. There is no thunder or lightning; +there is no snow, except a flurry once in five or six years; there are +perhaps half a dozen nights in the winter when the thermometer drops +low enough so that there is a little film of ice on exposed water in the +morning. Neither is there any hot weather. Yet most Easterners remaining +in San Francisco for a few days remember that they were always chilly. + + +A PECULIAR YET DELIGHTFUL CLIMATE. + + +For the Gate is a big funnel, drawing in the winds and the mists which +cool off the great, hot interior valley of San Joaquin and Sacramento. +So the west wind blows steadily ten months of the year and almost all +the mornings are foggy. This keeps the temperature steady at about 55 +degrees--a little cool for comfort of an unacclimated person, especially +indoors. Californians, used to it, hardly ever think of making fires in +their houses except in the few exceptional days of the winter season, +and then they rely mainly upon fireplaces. This is like the custom of +the Venetians and the Florentines. + +But give an Easterner six months of it, and he, too, learns to exist +without a chill in a steady temperature a little lower than that to +which he is accustomed at home. After that one goes about with perfect +indifference to the temperature. Summer and winter San Francisco women +wear light tailor-made clothes, and men wear the same fall-weight suits +all the year around. + +Except for the modern buildings, the fruit of the last ten years, the +town presented at first sight to the newcomer a disreputable appearance. +Most of the buildings were low and of wood. In the middle period of the +70’s, when a great part of San Francisco was building, there was some +atrocious architecture perpetrated. In that time, too, every one put +bow windows on his house, to catch all of the morning sunlight that was +coming through the fog, and those little houses, with bow windows and +fancy work all down their fronts, were characteristic of the middle +class residence districts. + +Then the Italians, who tumbled over Telegraph Hill, had built as they +listed and with little regard for streets, and their houses hung crazily +on a side hill which was little less than a precipice. For the most part +the Chinese, although they occupied an abandoned business district, had +remade the houses Chinese fashion, and the Mexicans and Spaniards had +added to their houses those little balconies without which life is not +life to a Spaniard. + +The hills are steep beyond conception. Where Vallejo Street ran up +Russian Hill it progressed for four blocks by regular steps like a +flight of stairs. + +With these hills, with the strangeness of the architecture, and with the +green gray tinge over everything, the city fell always into vistas and +pictures, a setting for the romance which hung over everything, which +has always hung over life in San Francisco since the padres came and +gathered the Indians about Mission Dolores. + +And it was a city of romance and a gateway to adventure. It opened out +on the mysterious Pacific, the untamed ocean, and most of China, Japan, +the South Sea Islands, Lower California, the west coast of Central +America, Australia that came to this country passed in through the +Golden Gate. There was a sprinkling, too, of Alaska and Siberia. +From his windows on Russian Hill one saw always something strange and +suggestive creeping through the mists of the bay. It would be a South +Sea Island brig, bringing in copra, to take out cottons and idols; a +Chinese junk with fan-like sails, back from an expedition after sharks’ +livers; an old whaler, which seemed to drip oil, back from a year of +cruising in the Arctic. Even, the tramp windjammers were deep-chested +craft, capable of rounding the Horn or of circumnavigating the globe; +and they came in streaked and picturesque from their long voyaging. + + +A MIXTURE OF RACES. + + +In the orange colored dawn which always comes through the mists of that +bay, the fishing fleet would crawl in under triangular lateen sails, for +the fishermen of San Francisco Bay are all Neapolitans, who have brought +their costumes and sail with lateen rigs shaped like the ear of a horse +when the wind fills them and stained an orange brown. + +The “smelting pot of the races” Stevenson called the region along the +water front, for here the people of all these craft met, Italians, +Greeks, Russians, Lascars, Kanakas, Alaska Indians, black Gilbert +Islanders, Spanish-Americans, wanderers and sailors from all the world, +who came in and out from among the queer craft to lose themselves in the +disreputable shanties and saloons. The Barbary Coast was a veritable bit +of Satan’s realm. The place was made up of three solid blocks of dance +halls, for the delectation of the sailors of the world. Within those +streets of peril the respectable never set foot; behind the swinging +doors of those saloons anything might be happening, crime was as common +here as drink, and much went on of which the law was blankly ignorant. + +Not far removed from this haunt of crime was the world-famous Chinatown, +a district six blocks long and two wide, and housing when at its fullest +some 30,000 Chinese. Old business houses at first, the new inmates added +to them, rebuilt them, ran out their own balconies and entrances, and +gave them that feeling of huddled irregularity which makes all Chinese +built dwellings fall naturally into pictures. Not only this, they +burrowed to a depth equal to three stories under the ground, and through +this ran passages in which the Chinese transacted their dark and devious +affairs--as the smuggling of opium, the traffic in slave girls and the +settlement of their difficulties, by murder if they saw fit. The law was +powerless to prevent or discover and convict the murderers. + +Chinatown is gone; the Barbary Coast is gone; the haunts of crime have +been swept by the devouring flames, and if the citizens can prevent +they will never be restored. The old San Francisco is dead. The gayest, +lightest-hearted, most pleasure-loving city of this continent, and +in many ways the most interesting and romantic, is a horde of huddled +refugees living among ruins. It may rebuild; it probably will; but those +who have known that peculiar city by the Golden Gate and have caught its +flavor of the Arabian Nights feel that it can never be the same. When it +rises out of its ashes it will probably doubtless resemble other modern +cities and have lost its old strange flavor. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Life in the Metropolis of the Pacific + + +Brought up in a bountiful country, where no one really has to work very +hard to live, nurtured on adventure, scion of a free and merry stock, +the real, native Californian is a distinctive type; as far from the +Easterner in psychology as the extreme Southern is from the Yankee. He +is easy going, witty, hospitable, lovable, inclined to be unmoral rather +than immoral in his personal habits, and above all easy to meet and to +know. + +Above all there is an art sense all through the populace which sets it +off from any other part of the country. This sense is almost Latin in +its strength, and the Californian owes it to the leaven of Latin blood. + + +THE ‘FRISCO RESTAURANTS. + + +With such a people life was always gay. If they did not show it on the +streets, as do the people of Paris, it was because the winds made +open cafes disagreeable at all seasons of the year. The gayety went on +indoors or out on the hundreds of estates that fringed the city. It was +noted for its restaurants. Perhaps people who cared not how they spent +their money could get the best they wished, but for a dollar down to as +low as fifteen cents the restaurants furnished the best fare to be had +anywhere at the price. + +The country all about produced everything that a cook needs, and that +in abundance--the bay was an almost untapped fish-pond, the fruit +farms came up to the very edge of the town, and the surrounding country +produced in abundance fine meats, all cereals and all vegetables. + +But the chefs who came from France in the early days and liked this land +of plenty were the head and front of it. They passed their art to other +Frenchmen or to the clever Chinese. Most of the French chefs at the +biggest restaurants were born in Canton, China. Later the Italians, +learning of this country where good food is appreciated, came and +brought their own style. Householders always dined out one or two +nights of the week, and boarding houses were scarce, for the unattached +preferred the restaurants. The eating was usually better than the +surroundings. + + +THE FAMOUS POODLE DOG. + + +Meals that were marvels were served in tumbledown little hotels. Most +famous of all the restaurants was the Poodle Dog. There have been no +less than four restaurants of this name, beginning with a frame shanty +where, in the early days, a prince of French cooks used to exchange +recipes for gold dust. Each succeeding restaurant of the name has moved +farther downtown; and the recent Poodle Dog stands--or stood--on the +edge of the Tenderloin in a modern five-story building. And it typified +a certain spirit that there was in San Francisco. + +On the ground floor was a public restaurant where there was served the +best dollar dinner on earth. It ranked with the best and the others were +in San Francisco. Here, especially on Sunday night, almost everybody +went to vary the monotony of home cooking. Every one who was any one in +the town could be seen there off and on. It was perfectly respectable. A +man might take his wife and daughter there. + +On the second floor there were private dining rooms, and to dine there, +with one or more of the opposite sex, was risque but not especially +terrible. But the third floor--and the fourth floor--and the fifth! The +elevator man of the Poodle Dog, who had held the job for many years and +never spoke unless spoken to, wore diamonds and was a heavy investor in +real estate. + +There were others as famous in their way--Zinkaud’s, where, at one time, +every one went after the theatre, and Tate’s, which has lately bitten +into that trade; the Palace Grill, much like the grills of Eastern +hotels, except for the price; Delmonico’s, which ran the Poodle Dog neck +and neck in its own line, and many others, humbler, but great at the +price. + + +THE BOHEMIAN CLUB. + + +To the visitor who came to see the city and who put himself in the hands +of one of its well-to-do citizens for the purpose, the few days that +followed were apt to be a whirl of mirth and sight-seeing, made up of +breakfasts, luncheons, dinners, drives, little trips across the bay, +dashes down the peninsula to the polo and country clubs, hours spent +in Bohemia, trips around the world among all the races of the habitable +globe, all of whom had their colonies in this most cosmopolitan of +American cities. + +In club life the Bohemian stood first and foremost, the famous club +whose meeting place, with all its art treasures, is now a heap of ashes, +but which was formerly ‘Frisco’s head-centre of mirth. Founded by Henry +George, the world-famous single tax advocate, when he was an impecunious +scribbler on the San Francisco Post, it grew to be the choicest place of +resort in the Pacific metropolis. + +Within its walls the possession of dollars was a bar rather than an +“open sesame,” the master key to its circles being the knack of telling +a good story or the possession of quick and telling wit. Fun-making was +the rule there, and the only way to escape being made its victim was +the power to deliver a ready and witty retort. In this home of good +fellowship all the artists, actors, wits, literati, fiddlers, pianists +and bon vivants were members. Here an impoverished painter could square +his grill and buffet account by giving the club a daub to hang on its +walls. Here in days of old the Sheriff used to camp regularly once a +month until the members rustled up the money to replevin the furniture. +But these days of poverty passed away, and in later years the club came +to know prosperity beyond the dreams of the good fellows who founded it. + + +THE WICKEDEST AND GAYEST. + + +The Bohemian is gone, but the spirit that founded and made it still +exists, and we may look to see it rise, like the phoenix, from its +ashes. + +San Francisco was often called the wickedest city in America. It was +hardly that, it was simply the gayest. It was not the home of purity; +neither is any other city. What other cities do behind closed doors San +Francisco did not hesitate to do in the open. + +In Eastern cities the police have driven vice into tenements, lodging +houses and apartments. San Francisco did not do that. She had certain +quarters where, according to unwritten law, vice was allowed to abide, +and she did not try to hide the fact that it could be found there. She +was not secretly immoral; she was frankly unmoral. + +She did not believe in driving her vice from the open where it could be +recognized and controlled--prevented from doing any more harm than it +was possible to stop--into districts of the city where good people dwell +and purity would feel its contaminating influence. There were regions in +which the respectable never set foot, haunts of acknowledged vice which +for virtue to enter would be to lose caste. + +As for its gayety, San Francisco was proud of the reputation of being +the Paris of America. Its women were beautiful, and they knew it. They +liked to adorn their beauty with fine clothes and peacock along the +streets on matinee days. If you asked a San Francisco girl why she wore +such expensive clothes, she would say, frankly, “Because I like to have +the men admire me,” and she would see no harm in saying it. There was +very little sham about the San Francisco women. Their men understood +them and worshiped them. They bore themselves with the freedom that +was theirs by right of their heritage of open-air living, the Bohemian +atmosphere they breathed, the unconventional character of their +surroundings. Their figures were strong and well moulded, their faces +bloomed with health like the roses in their gardens. They drew the wine +of laughter from their balmy California air. Sorrow and trouble sat +lightly on their shoulders. + +There was no end of enjoyments. After the theatre they would go to +Zinkaud’s, Tate’s, the Palace or some other of the many places of +resort, for a snack to eat and a spell under the music, which was to be +heard everywhere. + +Another part of the gay life of the city was for a private dance to keep +going all night in a fashionable residence, and at daylight, instead of +everybody going to bed, to jump into automobiles or carriages or take +the trolley cars and whizz off to the beach for a dip in the cold salt +water pool at Sutro’s baths, and then, with ravenous appetites, sit down +on the Cliff House balcony to an open-air breakfast while watching the +ships sail in and out at the Golden Gate and hearing the seals barking +on the rocks. After that home and to rest. + + +AN ALL-NIGHT TOWN. + + +The city never went to sleep altogether. It was “an all-night” town. Few +of the restaurants ever closed, none of the saloons did. Always during +the whole twenty-four hours of the day there was “something doing” in +the Tenderloin. No hour of the night was ever free of revelry. It was +marvelous how they kept it up. The average San Franciscan could stay +awake all night at a card game, take a cold wash and a good breakfast +in the morning, and go straight downtown to business and feel none the +worse for it. + +It was a gay town, a captivating, piquant, audacious, but not especially +wicked city. A Frenchy, a risque city it might justly have been called, +but it was not wicked in the sense that sordid vice, vulgar crime and +wretched squalor constitute wickedness. + +It was a lovable place that everybody longed to get back to, once +having been there. A woman, leaving it for years, watched it from the +ferryboat, and, weeping, said, “San Francisco, oh, my San Francisco, I +am leaving thee.” + +Will those who left it after the fire ever get back to their old +city again? We have already expressed our doubt of this. The old San +Francisco is probably gone, never to return. The new San Francisco will +be a cleaner, saner and safer city, destitute of its rookeries, its +tenements and its Chinatown. It will be a greater and more sightly +city than that of the past, but to those who knew and loved the old San +Francisco--San Francisco the captivating, the maddest, gayest, liveliest +and most rollicking in the country--there must be something impressibly +sad to its old inhabitants in the reflection that the new city of the +Golden Gate can never be quite the same as the haven of their early +affections. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Plans to Rebuild San Francisco. + + +Almost as soon as the terrible conflagration had been checked and gotten +under control by the heroic efforts of the soldiers and firemen, a +little group of the leading citizens of the desolated city had met +in the office of Mayor Eugene E. Schmitz and had begun to plan the +restoration of their municipality. It was an admirable courage, bred in +the stock of those men who in 1849 left comfortable homes in the East to +seek their fortune in the Golden State, that inspired the loyal leaders +of the present day citizens to provide with far-seeing eyes for +the rebuilding of their homes and business houses with more orderly +precision after the fire than had been possible during the hustle of +early days in a new city. + +The old San Francisco was no more, and never could be recalled save as +a memory. The local color, atmosphere, that which might be termed the +feeling of the old city, vanished with the clustered houses, as rich +in tradition as the ancient missions in whose cloisters worshiped the +Spanish padre “before the Gringo came.” Heartrending as it was to the +citizens who loved their homes and haunts to see them disappear into +smoke, there was an attraction about the city of the Golden Gate which +endeared it to all Americans. + +One of San Francisco’s charms was in its defiance of precedent. There +were hills to be conquered, and San Francisco’ s expanding traffic +hurled itself at the face of them. It went up and up, with no thought +of finding a way around. So it happened that on some of the streets the +steepness was too great for horses. In the centre there are cable roads, +and on either side of the rails grass grows through the cobbles. The +earlier structures on the level were put together in haste. For the most +part they remained essentially unchanged until they fell with a +crash. True, they had become stained by time, unkempt, dwarfed by new +neighbors, but nobody desired to efface them. Away from the business +section houses appeared on the various hills, perched precariously near +the brink; houses reached by long flights and grown over with roses. The +bathing fogs touched them with gray. Moss grew on their roofs. In the +little, lofty yards calla lilies bloomed with the profusion of weeds. +The natural beauty of the site, the quaintness of the commercial and +social development of which it became the centre, attracted the poet +and the artist. It incited them to paint the attractions and to sing the +praises of their chosen home. + +But the loyal sons of those brave pioneers who founded the metropolis +were not in the least daunted by the problem of raising from its ruins +the whole vast number of dwellings and business houses. The leaders of +the people, the men who had been identified with San Francisco since +its early days, and whose great fortunes were almost swept away by the +cataclysm, lent courage to all the wearied thousands by firm statements +of their optimism. + +James D. Phelan, former Mayor of the city and one of its richest +capitalists, immediately announced his intention of rebuilding his +properties at Market and O’Farrell Streets, in the heart of the ruined +business district. William H. Crocker, one of the heaviest losers, a +nephew of Charles Crocker, who founded the Central Pacific Railroad with +Collis P. Huntington, Leland Stanford and others, stated emphatically +that he would put his shoulder to the wheel. On receiving the first news +of the disaster, and before he knew what his losses would amount to, he +said: + +“Mark my words, San Francisco will arise from these ashes a greater and +more beautiful city than ever. I don’t take any stock in the belief of +some people that investors and residents will be panicky and afraid to +build up again. This calamity, terrible as it is, will mean nothing less +than a new and grander San Francisco. It is preposterous to suggest the +abandonment of the city. It is the natural metropolis of the Pacific +coast. God made it so. D. O. Mills, the Spreckels family, everybody I +know, have determined to rebuild and to invest more than ever before. +Burnham, the great Chicago architect, has been at work for a year or +more on plans to beautify San Francisco. Terrible as this destruction +has been, it serves to clear the way for the carrying out of these +plans. Why, even now we are figuring on rebuilding. More than that, I am +confident that, except for what fire has absolutely laid waste, it +will be found that the buildings are less injured than was supposed. +Plastering, ornamental work, glass and more or less loose material has +been shaken down, but the framework, I am sure, will be found intact in +many big buildings.” + +D. Ogden Mills, of New York, who owned enormous properties in the +stricken city, was equally confident. + +“We will go ahead,” said he, “and build the city, and build it so that +earthquakes will not shake it down and so fire will not destroy it, and +we will have a water system which will enable us to draw water from the +sea for fire extinguishing service and other municipal purposes. We will +thus have less to fear from the destruction of the land mains. The whole +point with all of us who own property down there is that we have to +build. To let it lie idle, piled with its ruins, would mean the throwing +away of money, and I am sure none of us intends to do that. The city +will go up like Baltimore did, and Galveston, and Charleston, and +Chicago, and there will be no lack of capital. California spirit and +California enterprise, which are always associated with the State of +California, will rise superior to this calamity.” + +George Crocker, elder brother of William H. Crocker; Archer M. +Huntington, son of Collis P. Huntington; Mrs. Herman Oelrichs, Mrs. W. +K. Vanderbilt, Jr., members of the wealthy Spreckels family and others +all expressed, before the great conflagration had ceased burning, the +confident expectation that the city would rise, Phoenix-like, from its +ashes and become more beautiful and prosperous than it had ever been in +the past. + +So complete was the calamity that the Government of the United States +lent a hand in the earliest work of restoration. On April 20th, two days +after the earthquake, Congress took immediate steps to repair or replace +all the public buildings damaged or destroyed in San Francisco. The +willingness of Congress to assist those in need of work by immediately +beginning the reconstruction of the Federal buildings was indicated +when Senator Scott, chairman of the Committee on Public Buildings and +Grounds, introduced a resolution calling upon the Secretary of the +Treasury for full information as to the exact condition of the various +government buildings in San Francisco, and instructing him to submit an +estimate showing the aggregate sum needed to repair or rebuild them. +The resolution suggested that steel frames be used in any new buildings. +This resolution was adopted. It was soon learned that the new Post +Office, the Mint and the old Customs House were practically undamaged. +The branch of the United States Mint, on Fifth Street, and the new Post +Office at Seventh and Mission Streets, were striking examples of the +superiority of workmanship put into Federal buildings. The old Mint +building, surrounded by a wide space of pavement, was absolutely +unharmed. The Mint made preparations to resume business at once. +The Post Office building also was virtually undamaged by fire. The +earthquake shock did some damage to the different entrances to the +building, but the walls were left standing in good condition. President +Roosevelt also sent a message to Congress asking that $300,000 be at +once appropriated to finish the Mare Island Navy Yard, in order that +employment might be given to the many workmen who were in extreme need +of money for the necessities of life. + +It was a most fortunate circumstance that the property records in the +Hall of Records were unharmed either by earthquake or fire. Endless +disputes and litigation over the questions of ownerships would +undoubtedly have otherwise impeded the work of those sincerely +anxious to repair their shattered fortunes and opened the way for the +unscrupulous to take unfair advantage of the general chaos. + +But the temper of the people was such that only the boldest would have +dared to use trickery for his own ends. Every man stood at the side of +his neighbor working for himself and for the good of all. Before the +embers were cool the owners of some of the damaged skyscrapers gave +commands to proceed instantly with their reconstruction. The Spreckels +Building, the Hayward Building, the St. Francis Hotel, the Merchants’ +Exchange and structures that permitted it were ordered rushed into shape +as quickly as possible. And already contracts had been drawn up +for other steel-frame buildings to be erected with all speed. Many +substantial business men and property owners of San Francisco were in +consultation with the architects within a few days. While the work of +clearing away the debris went forward, a corps of draughtsmen was busily +occupied preparing plans for the new buildings to adorn the city. + +Mayor Schmitz telegraphed to the Mayors of all leading cities, inquiring +how many architects or architectural draughtsmen could be induced to +leave for San Francisco at once, and hundreds of young men immediately +responded to the call. Experts of the several great contracting +companies hurried to the scene and were ready to deposit material and +labor on the ground for the work of restoration. Daniel H. Burnham, +a leading architect of Chicago, who had previously drawn plans for +beautifying the city, was summoned to superintend the work. + +All the horses, mules and wagons obtainable were immediately pressed +into service to remove the debris and clear the streets so that traffic +could be resumed. Within a week after the first earthquake shock trolley +cars were running in the principal streets, telephone communication had +been re-established in the most needed quarters, electric lights were +available and business had begun again on a limited scale. + +Yet, in spite of the indomitable courage of the citizens and the +efficient labor of the public officers and the utility companies, an +enormous amount of work remained. Virtually every bank in San Francisco +had to be rebuilt. Only the Market Street National Bank was left nearly +undamaged. An official list of the condition of the school buildings +throughout the city showed that twenty-nine school buildings were +destroyed and that forty-four were partially, at least, spared. Many +of the latter were so damaged that they had to be either pulled down or +thoroughly repaired, and arrangements were made to resume the short +term in tents erected in the parks, where thousands of the homeless had +already found temporary shelter. With these two vital classes of public +institutions prepared to care for the demands about to be made on them, +confidence was not lacking in other parts. Most of the foundries and +factories near the water front and south of Market Street immediately +called in all their employees and began to clear away the wreckage +and make ready for continuing business. Great credit is due to the +newspapers, nearly all of which continued their daily issues without +interruption, although their buildings, with offices and printing +plants, were entirely destroyed by the flames which followed the +earthquake. Those whose premises were early threatened with destruction +betook themselves to Oakland, seven miles distant across the bay, and +published their sheets from the establishments of the Oakland papers. A +thorough inspection shows that comparatively little damage was done in +the vicinity of the Cliff. The Cliff House, which was at first reported +to have been hurled into the sea, not only stood, but the damage +sustained by it from the earthquake was slight. The famous Sutro baths, +located near the Cliff House, with the hundreds of thousands of square +feet of glass roofing, also were practically unharmed. Only a few of +the windows in the Sutro baths and the Cliff House were broken, and +the lofty chimney of the pumping plant of the former establishment +was cracked only a trifle. When the situation was finally summed +up, however, nearly three-fourths of the city had to be rebuilt or +remodeled, and the cost of doing this was enough to appal the strongest +hearts. + +Financially the prospect was encouraging. Not a bank lost the contents +of its fireproof vaults and remained practically unharmed, so far as +credit was concerned. + +For a number of days it was impossible to open any strong boxes on +account of the great heat which the thick walls retained, and this +naturally caused some embarrassment and lack of ready money. Nearly all +of them, however, had strong connections in Eastern cities and large +balances to their credit in other banks of America and Europe. They +were also favored by the fact that the United States Mint and the +Sub-Treasury held between them some $245,000,000 in ready money. The +Secretary of the Treasury immediately deposited $10,000,000 to the +credit of the local banks, and financiers of the great business centres +of the country added to public confidence by prompt statements that they +would facilitate the reconstruction of the city by a liberal advancement +of funds. + +One prominent Eastern capitalist expressed the general conviction in the +following words: + +“No great city, unless it dried up entirely from lack of commercial life +blood, was ever annihilated by such a disaster as that of San Francisco. +Pompeii and Herculaneum were not great cities in the first place, and in +the second, they were completely covered, smothered as it were, with the +ashes and molten lava of the adjoining volcano, and nearly all of +their inhabitants perished. If it be admitted that three-fourths of the +superstructures, so to speak, of San Francisco, estimated according to +valuation, is destroyed, we have yet the fact remaining that the lives +of only about one four-hundredth of its population have been lost. + +“San Francisco was not merely land and the buildings erected upon +it, but it was people, and one of the most active, most hopeful, most +vivacious human communities on the face of the earth. You cannot long +discourage such a community, unless you wipe out three-fourths of +its members. Will San Francisco rise again? Most certainly it will. +Galveston and Baltimore, not to mention Charleston, Boston and Chicago, +showed the spirit of material resurrection in American communities, +sore-smitten by calamity. After Galveston had been made a desert of sand +and debris, there were predictions that it would never rise again. What +was the outcome? A finer Galveston than before, and finer than many +years of slow improvement in the natural course would have made it. +Baltimore is busier commercially than it was before the great fire. + +“San Francisco is exceedingly fortunate in the fact that its moneyed +institutions remain strong, with abundant supplies of funds. It is +true that many of them undoubtedly hold large numbers of real estate +mortgages as securities for loans, and that much of the property thus +represented is now in ashes. But with care and an accommodating spirit +practically all of those mortgaged can be so nursed that they will be +made absolutely good. The banks will be found to be only too eager to +afford new loans which will enable realty owners to rebuild. You will +see San Francisco rise a more splendid city than ever, and better +prepared to resist future earthquake shocks. Because it has had this +dreadful visitation is no reason for apprehension that another like it +will come within the life of the present generation, or two or three +after. The destruction of Lisbon in the middle of the eighteenth +century and its subsequent immunity from seismic damage is a reassuring +example.” + +The municipality was in excellent financial condition to meet and rise +above the extraordinary needs of the situation. It had a bonded debt +of only $4,245,100, while its realty valuation was $402,127,261 and +its personalty $122,258,406. The question of issuing further amounts +of bonds was therefore one of the first measures considered by Mayor +Schmitz and his co-workers, and an appeal was made to the Federal +Government to guarantee the proposed loans, so that the most urgent work +which lay in the city’s province could be undertaken at once and without +an excessive burden of interest. + +The vast insurance loss was divided among 107 companies, and, though +only a little more than half the damage was covered by policies, the +total swelled toward the colossal sum of $150,000,000. Several of the +largest companies were seriously crippled by the disaster and some were +forced into liquidation. To the great relief of the entire country, +nevertheless, the financial situation was not severely affected, and +there was every reason to believe that the great bulk of the insurance +would be paid. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +The Earthquake Wave Felt Round the Earth. + + +The outbreak of earth forces at San Francisco did not stand alone. There +were others elsewhere at nearly the same time, the whole seeming to +indicate a general disturbance in the interior of the earth’s crust. +Some scientists, indeed, declared that no possible connection could +exist between the eruption of Mount Vesuvius and the earthquake at San +Francisco, but others were inclined to view certain facts in regard to +recent seismic and volcanic activity as, to say the least, suggestive. + +As to the actual cause of the California earthquake, the wisest +confession we can make is that of ignorance, there being almost as +little known as to the origin, period and coming of earthquakes as when +Pliny wrote 1,800 years ago. The Roman observer knew that the tremor +passed like a wave through the surface of the earth; he knew that it +had a given direction, and he knew that certain regions were rife with +seismic disturbance. More he could not say, and when this is said all +has been said that is known to-day. + +Setting aside these general considerations, let us return to the +question of the disaster at San Francisco on that fatal morning of April +18th. The shock did not come unexpectedly. A month previous there had +been a severe earthquake in the Island of Formosa, and many lives were +lost there, while an enormous amount of damage was done. Only a few days +before the event in San Francisco there was another earthquake in the +same island. Still greater havoc was caused by it than by the earthquake +in March, but fewer lives were lost, the reason being that the people +were warned in time. Early in April the eruption of Mount Vesuvius +reached its height and devastated the country around the volcano, +covering an enormous territory with ashes, and caused the loss of +hundreds of lives. + +On Tuesday night, April 17th, word was received from Piatigorsk, +Circassia, that there had been two severe earthquake shocks the previous +day in Northern Caucasia. The same night a telegram from Madrid said +that the newspapers there reported that the long-dormant volcano on +Palma, the largest of the Canary Islands, was showing signs of eruption, +columns of smoke issuing from the crater. + + +WIDESPREAD EARTH TREMORS. + + +While scientists as a rule doubt that there was any connection between +these volcanic phenomena and the earthquake at San Francisco, yet +reports from the Mount Weather observation station in Virginia, a few +miles from Washington, show that the eruptions of Vesuvius acted on +the magnetic instruments by electro-magnetic waves in such a way as +to disturb the electrical potentials at that place. Be this as it may, +there is one remarkable circumstance in regard to all this activity. All +the places mentioned--Formosa, Southern Italy, Caucasia, and the Canary +Islands--lie within a belt bounded by lines a little north of the +fortieth parallel and a little south of the thirtieth parallel. San +Francisco is just south of the fortieth parallel, while Naples is just +north of it. The latitude of Calabria, where the terrible earthquakes +occurred in 1905, is the same as that of the territory affected by the +recent earthquake in the United States. This may or may not have some +bearing on the question. + +Whatever be thought of all this, one thing is certain, the earthquake +which laid San Francisco in ruins was felt the world over, wherever +there were instruments in position to detect and record it. The +seismograph in the government observatory at Washington showed that +the first wave, on April 18th, came at 8.19--equivalent to 5.19 at San +Francisco; that at 8.25 there was a stronger wave motion, and that from +8.32 to 8.35 the recording pen was carried off the paper. The vibrations +did not entirely cease until 12.35 P. M., during this period there +having been nearly half an inch of to and fro motion in the surface of +the earth. + + +RECORDS OF FOREIGN OBSERVATIONS. + + +From far away New Zealand, on the same date, the government seismograph +at the capital, Wellington, recorded seismic waves that apparently +passed round the earth five times at intervals of about four hours each. + +Across the Atlantic, at Heidelberg, in Germany, the records showed +vibrations lasting one hour. At Sarayevo, in Bosnia, there was a sharp +shock at 11 A. M., undulating from west to east. At Funfkirchen, in +Hungary, at Laibach, in Austria, in the Isle of Wight, off the coast +of England, and all through Italy, from north to south, the shocks were +felt. + +At Hancock, Mich., a shock was felt on April 19th a mile below the +surface in the Quincy mine of such severity that one man was killed and +four injured by a fall of rock loosened by the trembling of the earth. +There is no evidence, however, that this had any connection with the +California disaster, the dates not coinciding. + +Turning to the Far East, across the Pacific, seismographs in the +Imperial University of Tokio showed that the earthquake was felt there +eleven minutes later than in San Francisco, and similar instruments in +Manila detected the arrival of the seismic waves twenty minutes after +the San Francisco shock. In this there was a slight difference in time +compared with Tokio, but, considering the distance, near enough to prove +that the disturbances came from the same source. + +Not until the day following was any noticeable disturbance felt in +Honolulu, but on April 19th shocks were plainly felt for six minutes and +the water in the harbor rose rapidly. Panic seemed imminent just before +the shocks subsided. While earthquakes are by no means infrequent in +these islands, this was more severe than any recorded in recent years, +causing buildings to sway to and fro and partly demolishing some of +frail construction. + +If, as the majority of men qualified to discuss earthquakes seem to +think, the San Francisco earthquake had no connection with volcanic +action, but was caused by what is technically known as a “fault” in the +formation of the crust of the earth, it seems easy enough to account +for these wave motions travelling round the earth. How widely this may +really have made itself felt it is not possible to say. Several of the +great earthquakes in Japan have been recorded in the seismographs of +the observatories on every continent and in Australia, showing that in +severe disturbances of this kind the whole surface strata quiver, alike +under the oceans and over the continents and islands. At the time of a +shock, of course, half of the world is in darkness and asleep. This is +taken to account for the fact that so far only a few observatories have +reported catching the San Francisco vibrations. + +The instruments invented for the recording of the motions of the +earth’s crust are looked upon by scientists as the most delicate of all +machines. So highly sensitive are they, indeed, that the very slightest +vibratory motion is recorded perfectly. Even the tread of feet cannot +escape this instrument if sufficient to cause a vibration. + +There are three classes of instruments for the automatic recording +of earth tremors, each with its own particular function. First is the +seismoscope, which will merely detect and record the fact that there +has been such a tremor. Some of these are so equipped as to indicate the +time of the disturbance. + +Second, is the seismometer, the function of which is to measure the +maximum force of the shock, either with or without an indication of its +direction. The third instrument is the seismograph, which is so arranged +that it will accurately record the number, succession, direction, +amplitude and period of successive oscillations. This last instrument is +by far the most delicate of the three. + +In the construction of this earthquake recording machine the maker must +so suspend a heavy body that when its normal position is disturbed in +the most infinitesimal degree no reactionary force will be developed +tending to restore it to its original position. The inventor has never +been found who could accomplish this suspension of a body to perfection. +The seismograph of to-day, however, has reached a stage of perfection +where close approximations are obtained in the records made. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Vesuvius Devastates the Region of Naples. + + +We have in other chapters described the terrible work of Mount Vesuvius +in the past, from the far-off era of the destruction of Pompeii down to +the end of the last century. There comes before us now another frightful +eruption, one of the greatest in its history, that of 1906. For thirty +years before this outbreak the mighty volcano had been comparatively +quiet, rarely ceasing, indeed, to smoke and fume, but giving little +indication of the vast forces buried in its heart. It showed some +sympathy with Mont Pelee in 1902, and continued restless after that +time, but it was not until about the middle of February, 1906, that it +became threatening, lava beginning to overflow from the crater and make +its lurid way down the mountain’s side. + +It was in the middle of the first week of April that these indications +rose to the danger point, the flow of lava suddenly swelling from a +rivulet to a river, pouring in a gleaming flood over the crater’s rim, +and meeting the other streams that came streaming down the volcano’s +rugged flank. While this went on the mountain remained comparatively +quiet, there being no explosions, though a huge cloud of volcanic ash +and cinders rose high in the air until it hung over the crater in the +shape of an enormous pine tree, while from it a shower of dust and sand, +soon to become terrible, began to descend upon the surrounding fields +and towns. + +Dangerous as is Vesuvius at any time, the people of the vicinity dare +its perils for the allurement of its fertile soil. A ring of populous +villages encircles it, flourishing vineyards and olive groves extend +on all sides, and the hand of industry does not hesitate to attack its +threatening flanks. The intervals between its death-dealing throes are +so long that the peasants are always ready to dare destruction for the +hope of winning the means of life from its soil. + + +THE RIVERS OF LAVA. + + +All this locality was now a field of terror and death. Down on the +vineyards and villages poured the smothering ashes in an ever increasing +rain; toward them slowly and threateningly crawled the fiery serpents +of the lava streams; and from their homes fled thousands of the +terror-stricken people, frantic with horror and dismay. A number of +populous villages were threatened by the lurid lava streams, the most +endangered being Bosco Trecase, with its 10,000 inhabitants. Toward this +devoted town poured steadily the irresistible flood of molten rock. The +soldiers who had been hurried to the front sought to divert its flow by +digging a wide ditch across its course and throwing up a high bank of +earth, but they worked in vain. The demon of destruction was not to be +robbed of its prey. The liquid stream advanced like a colossal serpent +of fire, turning its head like a crawling snake to the right and left, +but keeping steadily on toward the fated town. The ditch was filled; the +bank gave way; the first house was reached and burst into flames; the +creeping stream of fire pushed on to the next houses in its way; only +then did the despairing people desert their homes and flee for their +lives, carrying with them the little they could snatch of their +treasured possessions. + +F. Marion Crawford, the novelist, who was present at this scene, thus +describes the flight of the terrified people: + +“I saw men, women and children and infants, whose mothers carried them +at the breast or in their aprons, fleeing in an endless procession. +Dogs, too, and cats were on the carts, and sometimes even chickens, tied +together by the legs, and piles of mattresses and pillows and shapeless +bundles of clothes. All were white with dust. Under the lurid glare I +saw one old woman lying on her back across a cart, ghastly white and, +if not dead already of fear and heat and suffocation, certainly almost +gone. We ourselves could hardly breathe.” + +It was on Saturday, the 7th, that Bosco Trecase became the prey of the +river of molten rock. During that night and the following day the crisis +of the eruption came. The observatory on the mountain side was occupied +by Professor Matteucci, his assistant, Professor Perret, of New York, +and two domestics, all others having been sent away. Their description +of the scene in which they found themselves is vividly picturesque. At +midnight the situation in the observatory was terrible. The forces +of the earthquake were let loose and the ground rocked so that it +was almost impossible to stand. The roaring of the main crater was +deafening, while the volcano poured forth its contents like a fountain, +and the electric display was terrifying, constant claps of thunder +following the lurid flashes of lightning, which gave the sky a blood-red +hue. + +Shortly after three o’clock in the morning the explosive energy of the +mighty mass culminated. The whole cone burst open with a tremendous +earthquake shock, from the heart of the recently silent mountain came a +deafening roar, and red-hot rocks, like the balls from nature’s mighty +artillery, were hurled a half mile into the air, while a dense mass of +ashes and sand was flung to three or four times this height. All the +next day the terrible detonation kept up, and a hail of bullet-like +stones poured downward from the skies. Rarely has a more terrible Sunday +been seen. It was as if the demons of earth and air were let loose and +were seeking to destroy man and his puny works. + + +THE CRISIS OF THE ERUPTION. + + +This frightful explosion of the 8th of April was the worst of the +dreadful display of volcanic forces, but the work kept up with +diminishing intensity much of the following week. The ashes and cinders +continued to pour down in suffocating showers, covering the ground to +a depth of four or five feet in the vicinity of the volcano and to a +considerable depth at Naples, ten miles away. The sun disappeared +behind the thick cloud that filled the air, and the scene resembled that +described by Pliny more than eighteen hundred years before. + +Of Bosco Trecase nothing was left but the large stone church and a few +houses. Another river of lava reached the outskirts of Torre del Greco, +and a third stopped at the cemetery of Torre Annunziata. Those towns +escaped, but thousands of acres of fertile cultivated land, with farm +houses and stock, were destroyed. The peninsular railway up the mountain +was ruined and the large hotel burned. One writer tells the following +tale of what he saw on that fatal Saturday and Sunday: + +“On the road I met hundreds of families in flight, carrying their few +miserable possessions. The spectacle of collapsing carts and fainting +women was frequently seen. When one reached the lava stream a stupefying +spectacle presented itself. From a point on the mountain between the +towns I saw four rivers of molten fire, one of which, 200 feet wide +and over 40 deep, was moving slowly and majestically onward, devouring +vineyards and olive groves. I witnessed the destruction of a farm house +enveloped on three sides by lava. Immediately overhead the great crater +was belching incandescent rock and scoria for an incredible distance. +The whole scene was wreathed with flames, and a perpetual roar was +heard. Ever and anon the cone of the volcano was encircled with vivid +electric phenomena, amid which a downpour of liquid fire on all sides of +the crater was revealed in magnificent awfulness. In the evening there +was a frightful shock of earthquake, which was repeated at two o’clock +on Sunday morning. Simultaneously the lava streams redoubled their +onrush, and men, women and children fled precipitately toward the sea. +The lava had invaded the road behind them.” + + +A REIGN OF TERROR. + + +The great loss of life was due to the vast fall of ashes, which crushed +in hundreds of roofs and buried the occupants within the ruins of their +homes. In all the neighboring towns buildings were destroyed in great +numbers, an early estimate being that fully 5,000 houses had been partly +crushed or utterly destroyed. On the Ottajano side of the mountain, +where the ashes fell in greatest profusion, all the houses of the +villages were damaged, and Ottajano itself was left a wreck, several +hundred dead bodies being taken from its ruins. In Naples the ash fall +was so incessant that those who could afford it wore automobile coats, +caps and goggles, while the people generally sought to save their +eyes and faces by the aid of paper masks and umbrellas. The drivers of +trolley cars were obliged to wear masks of some transparent material +under the vizors of their caps. + + +DISASTERS AT SAN GIUSEPPE AND NAPLES. + + +There were two special disasters attended by serious loss of life. On +the 9th, while a congregation of two hundred or more were attending mass +in the church at San Giuseppe, the roof crushed in from the weight of +ashes upon it and fell upon the worshippers below, few or none of whom +escaped unhurt. Fifty-four dead bodies were taken from the ruins and a +large number were severely injured. The Mayor of the town was dismissed +from his office for leaving his post of duty in the face of danger. + +The second disaster, one of the same character, took place at Naples. +This was on Tuesday, April 10th. Just previous to it the people had been +marching in religious processions through the streets, to render thanks +for the apparent cessation of the activity of Vesuvius. Motley but +picturesque processions were these, headed by boys carrying candles, +which burned simply in the full sunshine and bearing aloft images of the +Madonna or saints, clad in gorgeous robes of cheap blue or yellow +satin. Their joy was suddenly changed to grief by tidings of a frightful +disaster. The roof of the Monte Oliveto market, fronting on the Toledo, +the main thoroughfare, had suddenly crushed in, burying more than 200 +people beneath its heavy fall. + +The market had been crowded with buyers and their children, and it was +the busiest hours of the day in the great roofed courtyard, covering a +space 600 feet square, when, with scarcely a tremor of warning, there +came a frightful crash and a dense cloud of dust covered the scene, from +out of which came heartrending screams of agony. The volcanic ash which, +unnoticed, had gathered thickly on the roof, had broken it in by its +weight. + +The news set the people frantic with grief and indignation. They +insisted that the authorities knew that the roof was unsafe and had +neglected their duty. Cursing and screaming in their intense excitement, +they surrounded the market, endeavoring with frantic haste to remove the +heavy beams from beneath which came the appealing calls for help, many +of the rescuers sobbing aloud as they worked. It required a large force +of police and soldiers to keep them back and permit the firemen and +other trained workers to carry on more systematically the work of +relief. Twelve persons proved to have been killed, two fatally injured, +twenty-four seriously hurt and over a hundred badly bruised and cut. +Among these were many children, whose parents had sent them to do the +marketing without a dream of danger, and the grief of the parents was +intense. The Duke of Aosta, Prefect of Naples, directed the work of +rescue, while his wife assisted in the care of the injured. As the +Duchess bent in the hospital to give a cooling drink to a badly bruised +little girl she felt a kiss upon her hand. Looking down, she saw a woman +kneeling at her feet, who gratefully said: “Your Excellency, she is all +I have. I am a widow. May God reward you.” + +While this scene of horror was taking place in Naples the fate of the +town and villages grouped around the foot of the volcano seemed as +hopeless as ever. Early on the 10th the showers of ashes and streams +of lava diminished and almost ceased, but later the same day they began +again, and the terrified inhabitants feared that a catastrophe like that +which buried Pompeii and Herculaneum was about to visit them. The lava +which reached the cemetery of Torre Annunziata turned in the direction +of Pompeii as if to freshly entomb that exhumed city of the past. A +violent storm of sulphurous rain fell at San Giuseppe, Vesuviana and +Sariano, and on all sides the fall of sand and ashes came on again in +full strength. Even with the sun shining high in the heavens the light +was a dim yellow, in the midst of which the few persons who still +haunted the stricken towns moved about in the awful stillness of +desolation like gray ghosts, their clothing, hair and beards covered +with ashes. + + +THE ERUPTION RESUMED. + + +A typical case was that of Torre del Greco. Though for thirty hours +the place had been deserted, a few ghostly figures could be seen +at intervals when the vivid flashes of lightning illuminated the +gloom-covered scene, wandering desolately about, hungry and thirsty, +their throats parched by smoke and dust, yet unable to tear themselves +away from the ruins of their late comfortable homes. + +So deep was the ash fall that railway or tramway travel to the inner +circle of towns was impossible, and the great depth of fallen dust +choked the roads so as to render travel by carriage or on foot very +difficult. A party of officials made a tour of inspection by automobile, +visiting a number of the town, but were prevented by the state of the +roads from reaching others. Ottajano was thus cut off from travel, and +a heavy fall of ashes followed the officials in their retreat. At Bosco +Trecase the lava had gathered into a lake, already growing solid on top, +but a mass of liquid rock beneath. + +The lava carried vast masses of burnt stone and sulphur on its surface, +like dross on melted lead, and nothing was visible toward Bosco +Trecase but endless acres of dark scoriae, broken here and there by the +greenish, curling smoke of sulphur. At one point a great cone pine tree, +torn up by its roots and turned to black charcoal, stuck out of the mass +at a sharp angle. The air was almost unbearable, the heat intense, and +few could long bear the dangers and discomfort of the situation. + + +SCENES OF HORROR. + + +The greatest depth of ashes encountered was in the vicinity of Ottajano. +Here large areas were buried to a depth of several feet. Soldiers had +been sent there with military carts, carrying provisions and surgical +appliances, with orders to lend their aid in the work of relief. They +found it almost impossible to make their way through the deep fine dust, +and the tales of horror and heroism they had to tell resembled those +that must of old have been borne to Rome by the fleeing inhabitants of +Pompeii. + +Efforts were made to remove the children and old persons in the carts, +but when these had gone a few hundred feet it was found that, although +there were four horses harnessed to each vehicle, they could not pull +their loads through the ashes. This caused a panic among the children, +who expected to be buried in the incessant fall from the volcano, and +they fled in all directions in the darkness and blinding rain. Searching +parties went after them, but in spite of continuous shouting and calling +no trace was found of the little ones, and numbers of the children were +undoubtedly smothered by the ashes and sand. + +Many of the inhabitants had been buried in the ruins of their houses, +and the scenes when the victims were unearthed were often piteous and +terrible. The positions of the bodies showed that the victims had died +while in a state of great terror, the faces being convulsed with fear. +Three bodies were found in a confessional of one of the fallen churches. +One body was that of an old woman who was sitting with her right arm +raised as though to ward off the advancing danger. The second was that +of a child about eight years old. It was found dead in a position, which +would indicate that the child had fallen with a little dog close to it +and had died with one arm raised across its face, to protect itself +and pet from the crumbling ruins. The third body, that of a woman, was +reduced to an unrecognizable mass. These three victims were reverently +laid side by side while a procession of friends and relatives offered up +prayers beside them. + +One soldier rode his horse through the ashes reaching up to its flanks, +calling out, “Who wants help?” He was rewarded by hearing a woman’s +voice reply in weak tones and, springing from his horse, he floundered +through the ashes to the ruined walls of a house from which the voice +seemed to come. As he made his way through the soft, treacherous +layer of scoriae which surrounded the destroyed habitation, and with +difficulty worked his way toward the building the soldier shouted +words of encouragement and, climbing over a heap of ruins and braving a +toppling wall, entered the building. In the cellar he found the bodies +of three children. Near them was a woman, barely alive, who by almost +superhuman efforts for hours had succeeded in freeing herself from a +mass of debris which had fallen upon her. The soldier picked the woman +up in his arms and carried her to a place of safety. It was found that +both legs were broken and that she had been badly crushed about the +body. + +Some extraordinary escapes from death took place. A man and his +four children were rescued after having been lost in the ash-covered +wilderness for fifty-six hours. They were terribly exhausted, and were +reduced almost to skeletons. + +Robert Underwood Johnson, one of the editors of the “Century Magazine”, +who happened to be in Rome at the time of the eruption, made one of a +party who ventured as near the scene of destruction as they could safely +approach. From his graphic story of his experiences we copy some of the +most interesting details. + + +AN AMERICAN OBSERVER. + + +“We caught a train for Torre Annunziata, three miles this side of +Pompeii and two miles from the southern end of the wedge of lava which +destroyed Bosco Trecase. We had a magnificent view of the eruption, +eight miles away. Rising at an angle of fifty degrees, the vast mass of +tumult roundness was beautifully accentuated by the full moon, shifting +momentarily into new forms and drifting south in low, black clouds of +ashes and cinders reaching to Capri. At Torre del Greco we ran under +this terrifying pall, apparently a hundred feet above, the solidity of +which was soon revealed in the moonlight. The torches of the railway +guards added to the effect, but greatly relieved the sulphurous +darkness. + +“We reached Torre Annunziata at three in the morning. There was little +suggestion of a disaster as we trudged through the sleeping town to the +lava, two miles away. The brilliant moon gave us a superb view of the +volcano, a gray-brown mass rising, expanding and curling in with a +profile like a monstrous cyclopean face. But nothing in mythology gives +a suggestion of the fascination of this awful force, presenting the +sublime beauty above, but in its descent filled with the mysterious +malignance of God’s underworld. + +“We reached the lava at a picturesque cypress-planted cemetery on +the northern boundary of Torre Annunziata. It was as if the dead had +effectually cried out to arrest the crushing river of flames which +pitilessly engulfed the statue of St. Anne with which the people of +Bosco Reale tried to stay it, as at Catania the veil of St. Agathe is +said to have stayed a similar stream from Mount Etna. + +“We climbed on the lava. It was cool above but still alive with fire +below. We could see dimly the extent of the destruction beyond the +barrier of brown which had enclosed the streets, torn down the houses, +invaded the vineyards and broken Cook’s railways. A better idea of the +surroundings was obtained at dawn from the railway. We saw north what +was left of Bosco Trecase--a great, square stone church and a few houses +inland in a sea of dull, brown lava. North and east rose a thousand +patches of blue smoke like swamp miasma. All was dull and desolate slag, +with nowhere the familiar serpentine forms of the old lava streams. In +terrible contrast with the volcanic evidences were strong cypresses and +blooming camelias in a neighboring cemetery. + +“We ate a hasty luncheon before sunrise, when the great beauty of the +scene was revealed. The column now seemed higher and more massive, +rising to three times the height of Vesuvius. Each portion had a +concentric motion and new aspects. The south edges floating toward the +sea showed exquisite curved surfaces, due to the upper moving current. +It was like the decoration of the side of a great sarcophagus. As a +yellow dust hangs over Naples and hides the volcano, I count myself +fortunate to have seen all day from leeward this spectacle of changing, +undiminishing beauty. + +“The wedge of cultivated land ruined east of the volcano extended at +least ten miles, with a width of twenty or thirty miles. Fancy a rich +and thickly populated country of vineyards lying under three to six +inches of ashes and cinders of the color of chocolate with milk, while +above, to the west, the volcano in full activity is distributing to the +outer edges of the circle the same fate, and you will get an idea of the +desolate impression of the scene, a tragedy colossal and heartrending. +Like that of Calabria, it enlists the sympathy of the civilized world. +It takes time for such a calamity to be realized. + +“Two miles below San Giuseppe we struck cinders which the soldiers +were shoveling, making a narrow road for the refugees. Our wagon driver +begged off from completing his contract to take us to San Giuseppe. We +had not the heart to insist, so the rest of the journey to the railway +at Palma, eight miles, was made laboriously on foot for three hours +through sliding cinders. + +“In many places temporary shelters had been built by the roadside, +like children’s playhouses. Here women were huddled with their bedding, +awaiting the coming of supplies which the army had begun to distribute. +The men were largely occupied with shoveling cinders from the stronger +roofs and floors into heaps three to six feet deep along the roadside. +Many two-wheeled carts loaded with salvage, drawn by donkeys or pushed +by peasants, were making their way along, the women with bundles on +their heads or carrying poultry. + +“In the square of San Giuseppe was an encampment of soldiers, with low +tents. Near a destroyed church, in coarse yellow linen shrouds, were the +bodies of thirty-three of the persons who there lost their lives. The +peasants were sad, but uncomplaining; in fact, for so excitable a people +they were wonderfully calm. As evidence of the thrift and self-respect +of these, we were not once asked for alms during the afternoon.” + + +THE KING AT THE FRONT. + + +The Italian Government did all it could at the moment to alleviate the +horrors of the situation, sending money to be expended in relief +work and dispatching high officials of the government to give aid and +encouragement by their presence. The King, Victor Emmanuel, and Queen +Helene reached the scene of destruction as early as possible and lent +their personal assistance to the work of rescue. + +Obliged to leave his automobile, which could not move over the +cinder-choked road, the King went forward with difficulty on horseback, +the animal floundering through four feet of ashes, stumbling into holes, +and half blinded by the fall of dust and cinders. + +“How did you escape?” he asked a priest whom he met in his journey. + +“I put myself in safety,” was the reply. + +“What do you mean?” asked the King. + +“Realizing the danger, I left Nola.” + +“What!” cried the King, with a flush of anger. “You, a minister of God, +were not here to share the danger of your people and administer the last +sacraments? You did very wrong and forgot your duty.” + +Reaching Ottejano, the King did what he could to expedite the work +of rescue at that central point of disaster, more than a hundred dead +bodies being taken from the ruins in his presence. He stood with set +pale face watching the removal of the victims and directing the movement +of the workers. During his visit at the front he inspected the temporary +camp hospitals, in which the soldiers were caring for the injured and +suffering, speaking to the poor victims, giving them what comfort he +could, and asking what he could do to relieve their distress. Every +request or desire was received with sympathy and orders given to have it +fulfilled. + +A pitiful scene took place when the King bent over a poor man, whose +right leg had been amputated, and asked what he could do to comfort and +aid him in his affliction. + +“Send me my son, who is serving as a soldier,” said the maimed peasant. + +The King, visibly affected, clasped the old man’s hand and exclaimed: + +“My poor fellow! I can do much, but to grant your request would mean +breaking the laws, which I must be the first to respect. I would give +anything I have were it possible by so doing to send your son to you, +but I cannot do so.” + +While the King was thus engaged at the scenes of desolation, Queen +Helene visited the charitable institutions at Naples and inspected the +places where the refugees were housed, doing what she could to improve +conditions and add to the comfort of the sufferers. The Princess of +Schleswig-Holstein, who was in Naples, made an automobile visit to the +afflicted towns, but the motor broke down, and she was forced to return +on foot, walking a distance of twelve miles through the ashes and +displaying a power of endurance that surprised the natives. + + +THE CANOPY OF DUST. + + +By Friday, April 13th, the eruption was practically at an end. Vesuvius +had spent itself in the enormous convulsion of the 7th and 8th and +the subsequent minor explosions and had returned to its normal state, +ceasing to give any signs of life, except the cloud of smoke which still +rose from its crater and spread like a thick curtain over and around the +mountain. Looked at from Naples, there was none of the familiar aspects +of the volcano, with its output of smoke and ashes by day and fiery +gleam by night. Now it lay buried in darkness and obscurity, clothed +in a dense pall of smoke. At Rome there was sunshine, but twenty miles +south hung a misty veil, and twenty-five miles above Naples a zone of +semi-obscurity began, blotting out the sun, whose light trickled through +with a sickly glare. Everything was whitened with powdery dust; pretty +white villas were daubed and dripping with mud, and people were busy +shoveling the ashes from their roofs. + +The crowds at the stations resembled millers, their clothes flour +covered; the Campania presented the appearance of a Dakota prairie after +a blizzard of snow, though everything was gray instead of white. The +ashes lay in drifts knee deep. As the volcano was approached semi-night +replaced the day, the gloom being so deep that telegraph poles twenty +feet away could not be seen. Breathing was difficult, and the smoke made +the eyes water. At Naples, however, a favorable wind had cleared the air +of smoke, the sun shone brightly, and the versatile people were happy +once more. The goggles and eye-screens had disappeared, but the streets +were anything but comfortable, for some six thousand men were at work +clearing the ashes from the roofs and main streets and piling them in +the middle of the narrow streets, making the passage of vehicles very +difficult and the sidewalks far from comfortable for foot passengers. + +But while brightness and joy reigned at Naples, there were gruesome +scenes within the volcanic zone. At Bosco Trecase soldiers carried on +the work of exhumation, being able to work only an hour at a time on +account of the advanced stage of decomposition of the bodies. Many of +these were shapeless, unrecognizable masses of flesh and bones, while +others were little disfigured. To lessen the danger of an epidemic the +bodies were buried as quickly as possible in quicklime. + +On Sunday, the 15th, the searchers at Ottejano were surprised at finding +two aged women still alive, after six days’ entombment in the ruins. +They were among those who had been buried by the falling walls a week +before. The rafters of the house had protected them, and a few morsels +of food in their pockets aided to keep them alive. At some points there +the ashes were ten feet deep. At San Giuseppe bodies of women were found +in whose hands were coins and jewels, and one woman held a jewelled +rosary. This recalls the results of exploration at Herculaneum and +Pompeii, where were similar instances of death overtaking the victims of +the volcano while fleeing with their jewels in their hands. + +It is interesting to learn that two men stood heroically to their post +of duty during the whole scene of the explosion, Professor Matteucci, +Director of the Royal Observatory, and his American assistant, Professor +Frank A. Perret, of New York. Though the building occupied by them +was exposed to the full force of the rain of stones from the burning +mountain, they remained undauntedly at their post through that week of +terror. On the 14th some of that venturesome fraternity, the newspaper +correspondents, reached their eyrie on the highest habitable point on +Vesuvius and heard the story of their experiences. + + +THE HEROES OF THE OBSERVATORY. + + +For several days Professors Matteucci and Perret and their two servants +had been cut off from the outside world and bombarded by the volcano, +their rations consisting of bread, cheese and dried onions, until on +Friday a hardy guide was induced to push through to them with +some provisions. During the eruption the Professor had kept at his +instruments, taking observations day and night and making calculations +in the midst of the inferno. Roughly dressed, he looked like a Western +cowboy after a hard ride in a dust storm. The portico where he stood was +knee deep in ashes, and from the observatory terrace narrow paths had +been cut through the ashes, but as far as the eye could reach an ocean +of ashes and twisted rivers were alone visible, with Vesuvius rising +grimly in the midst. The great monster was enveloped in a cloak of +white, as if buried under a snowstorm, its surface being here and there +slit with gulches in which lava ran. At the bottom of one of those +gulches lay the wrecked remnants of the peninsular railway, a portion +of its twisted cable protruding through the ashes. As the correspondents +ascended the mountain they were surprised by the apparition of +natives, men wrinkled with age, who emerged from dugouts just below +the observatory and offered them milk and eggs, just as if they were +ordinary visitors to the volcano. As they descended they heard the +sound of a mandolin from one of these dugouts. Evidently Vesuvius had no +terrors for these case-hardened veterans. + +We have already told the story gleaned by the correspondents from the +daring scientists. Matteucci completed his record of boldness on Friday, +the 13th, by climbing to a point far above the observatory, at the +imminent risk of his life, to observe the conditions then existing. From +what he says he believed the end of the disturbance near, though he did +not venture to predict. As for the ashes, which a light wind was then +blowing in a direction away from Naples, he said: “The ill wind is now +blowing good to other places, for ashes are the best fertilizer it is +possible to use. It is merely a question just now of having too much of +a good thing.” + +This is a fact so far as the volcanic ash is concerned. An examination +of the ashes a few days ago shows that they will prove an active and +valuable fertilizer. The fertile slopes of Vesuvius have ever been an +allurement to the vine-grower, four crops a year being a temptation no +possible danger could drive him from, and as soon as the mountain grows +surely peaceful after this eruption, we shall find its farmers risking +again the chance of its uncertain temper. But this is not the case with +the land covered with lava and cinders. Time for their disintegration +is necessary before they can be brought under cultivation, and this is +a matter of years. After the great eruption of 1871-72 the land covered +with cinders did not bear crops for seven years, and there is no reason +that they will do so sooner on the present occasion. So for years to +come much of the volcanic soil must remain a barren and desert void. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +The Great Lisbon and Calabrian Earthquakes. + + +To our account of the great earth convulsions of San Francisco it is in +place to append a description of some similar events of older date. It +is due to the same causes, whatever these causes may be, the imprisoned +forces within the earth acting over great distances during the +earthquake, while they are concentrated within some limited space when +the volcano begins its work. The earthquake is the most terrible to +mankind of all the natural agencies of destruction. While the volcano +usually has a greater permanent effect upon surface conditions, it is, +as a rule, much less destructive to human life, the earthquake often +shaking down cities and burying all their inhabitants in one common +grave. Violent earthquakes are also of far more frequent occurrence than +destructive volcanic eruptions, many hundreds of them having taken place +during the historic period. + +While the earthquake is only indirectly connected with the subject of +our work, it seems desirable to make some mention of it here, at least +so far as relates to those terrible convulsions whose destructiveness +has given them special prominence in the history of great disasters. +Ancient notable examples are those which threw down the famous Colossus +of Rhodes and the Pharos of Alexandria. The city of Antioch was a +terrible sufferer from this affliction, it having been devastated some +time before the Christian era, while in the year 859 more than 15,000 +of its houses were destroyed. Of countries subject to earthquakes, Japan +has been an especial sufferer, in some cases mountains or islands being +elevated in association with shocks; in others, great tracts of land +being swallowed up by the sea. The number of deaths in some of these +instances was enormous. + +Numerous thrilling examples of the destructive work of the earthquake +at various periods are on record. Of these we have given elsewhere a +tabular list of the more important, and shall confine ourselves to a +few striking examples of its destructive action. In the record of great +earthquakes, one of the most famous is that which in 1755 visited the +city of Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, and left that populous, place +in ruin and dire distress. It may be well to recall the details of this +dire event to the memories of our readers. + + +THE GREAT LISBON EARTHQUAKE + + +On the night of the 31st of October, 1755, the citizens of the fair city +of Lisbon lay down to sleep, in merciful ignorance of what was awaiting +them on the morrow. The morning of the 1st of November dawned, and gave +no sign of approaching calamity. The sun rose in its brightness, the +warmth was genial, the breezes gentle, the sky serene. It was All +Saints’ Day--a high festival of the Church of Rome. The sacred edifices +were thronged with eager crowds, and the ceremonies were in full +progress, when the assembled throngs were suddenly startled from their +devotions. From the ground beneath came fearful sounds that drowned +the peal of the organ and the voices of the choirs. These underground +thunders having rolled away, an awful silence ensued. The panic-stricken +multitudes were paralyzed with terror. Immediately after the ground +began to heave with a long and gentle swell, producing giddiness and +faintness among the people. The tall piles swayed to and fro, like +willows in the wind. Shrieks of horror rose from the terrified assembly. +Again the earth heaved, and this time with a longer and higher wave. +Down came the ponderous arches, the stately columns, the massive walls, +the lofty spires, tumbling upon the heads of priests and people. The +graven images, the deified wafers, and they who had knelt in adoration +before them--the worshipped and the worshippers alike--were in a moment +buried under one undistinguishable mass of horrible ruins. Only a few, +who were near the doors, escaped to tell the tale. + +It fared no better with those who had remained in their dwellings. The +terrible earth-wave overthrew the larger number of the private houses in +the city, burying their inhabitants under the crumbling walls. Those who +were in the streets more generally escaped, though some there, too, were +killed by falling walls. + +The sudden overthrow of so many buildings raised vast volumes of fine +dust, which filled the atmosphere and obscured the sun, producing a +dense gloom. The air was full of doleful sounds--the groans of agony +from the wounded and the dying, screams of despair from the horrified +survivors, wails of lamentation from the suddenly bereaved, dismal +howlings of dogs, and terrified cries of other animals. + +In two or three minutes the clouds of dust fell to the ground, and +disclosed the scene of desolation which a few seconds had wrought. The +ruin, though general, was not universal. A considerable number of houses +were left standing--fortunately tenantless--for a third great earth-wave +traversed the city, and most of the buildings which had withstood the +previous shocks, already severely shaken, were entirely overthrown. + + +WATER ADDS TO THE DESTRUCTION + + +The last disaster filled the surviving citizens with the impulse of +flight. The more fortunate of them ran in the direction of the open +country, and succeeded in saving their lives; but a great multitude +rushed down to the harbor, thinking to escape by sea. Here, however, +they were met by a new and unexpected peril. The tide, after first +retreating for a little, came rolling in with an immense wave, about +fifty feet in height, carrying with it ships, barges and boats, and +dashing them in dire confusion upon the crowded shore. Overwhelmed +by this huge wave, great numbers were, on its retreat, swept into the +seething waters and drowned. A vast throng took refuge on a fine new +marble quay, but recently completed, which had cost much labor and +expense. This the sea-wave had spared, sweeping harmless by. But, alas! +it was only for a moment. The vast structure itself, with the whole of +its living burden, sank instantaneously into an awful chasm which opened +underneath. The mole and all who were on it, the boats and barges moored +to its sides, all of them filled with people, were in a moment ingulfed. +Not a single corpse, not a shred of raiment, not a plank nor a splinter +floated to the surface, and a hundred fathoms of water covered the +spot. To the first great sea-wave several others succeeded, and the bay +continued for a long time in a state of tumultuous agitation. + +About two hours after the first overthrow of the buildings, a new +element of destruction came into play. The fires in the ruined houses +kindled the timbers, and a mighty conflagration, urged by a violent +wind, soon raged among the ruins, consuming everything combustible, and +completing the wreck of the city. This fire, which lasted four days, was +not altogether a misfortune. It consumed the thousands of corpses which +would otherwise have tainted the air, adding pestilence to the other +misfortunes of the survivors. Yet they were threatened with an enemy not +less appalling, for famine stared them in the face. Almost everything +eatable within the precincts of the city had been consumed. A set +of wretches, morever, who had escaped from the ruins of the prisons, +prowled among the rubbish of the houses in search of plunder, so that +whatever remained in the shape of provisions fell into their hands and +was speedily devoured. They also broke into the houses that remained +standing, and rifled them of their contents. It is said that many of +those who had been only injured by the ruins, and might have escaped by +being extricated, were ruthlessly murdered by those merciless villains. + +The total loss of life by this terrible catastrophe is estimated at +60,000 persons, of whom about 40,000 perished at once, and the remainder +died afterwards of the injuries and privations they sustained. Twelve +hundred were buried in the ruins of the general hospital, eight hundred +in those of the civil prison, and several thousands in those of the +convents. The loss of property amounted to many millions sterling. + + +WIDE-SPREAD DESTRUCTION + + +Although the earth-wave traversed the whole city, the shock was felt +more severely in some quarters than in others. All the older part of the +town, called the Moorish quarter, was entirely overthrown; and of the +newer part, about seventy of the principal streets were ruined. +Some buildings that withstood the shocks were destroyed by fire. The +cathedral, eighteen parish churches, almost all the convents, the halls +of the inquisition, the royal residence, and several other fine palaces +of the nobility and mansions of the wealthy, the custom-houses, the +warehouses filled with merchandise, the public granaries filled with +corn, and large timber yards, with their stores of lumber, were either +overthrown or burned. + +The king and court were not in Lisbon at the time of this great +disaster, but were living in the neighborhood at the castle of Belem, +which escaped injury. The royal family, however, were so alarmed by the +shocks, that they passed the following night in carriages out of +doors. None of the officers of state were with them at the time. On +the following morning the king hastened to the ruined city, to see what +could be done toward restoring order, aiding the wounded, and providing +food for the hungry. + +The royal family and the members of the court exerted themselves to the +uttermost, the ladies devoting themselves to the preparation of lint and +bandages, and to nursing the wounded, the sick, and the dying, of whom +the numbers were overwhelming. Among the sufferers were men of quality +and once opulent citizens, who had been reduced in a moment to absolute +penury. The kitchens of the royal palace, which fortunately remained +standing, were used for the purpose of preparing food for the starving +multitudes. It is said that during the first two or three days a pound +of bread was worth an ounce of gold. One of the first measures of the +government was to buy up all the corn that could be obtained in the +neighborhood of Lisbon, and to sell it again at a moderate price, to +those who could afford to buy, distributing it gratis to those who had +nothing to pay. + +For about a month afterward earthquake shocks continued, some of them +severe. It was several months before any of the citizens could summon +courage to begin rebuilding the city. But by degrees their confidence +returned. The earth had relapsed into repose, and they set about the +task of rebuilding with so much energy, that in ten years Lisbon again +became one of the most beautiful capitals of Europe. + + +CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LISBON EARTHQUAKE + + +The most distinguishing peculiarities of this earthquake were the +swallowing up of the mole, and the vast extent of the earth’s surface +over which the shocks were felt. Several of the highest mountains in +Portugal were violently shaken, and rent at their summits; huge masses +falling from them into the neighboring valleys. These great fractures +gave rise to immense volumes of dust, which at a distance were mistaken +for smoke by those who beheld them. Flames were also said to have been +observed: but if there were any such, they were probably electrical +flashes produced by the sudden rupture of the rocks. + +The portion of the earth’s surface convulsed by this earthquake is +estimated by Humboldt to have been four times greater than the whole +extent of Europe. The shocks were felt not only over the Spanish +peninsula, but in Morocco and Algeria they were nearly as violent. At a +place about twenty-four miles from the city of Morocco, there is said +to have occurred a catastrophe much resembling what took place at the +Lisbon mole. A great fissure opened in the earth, and an entire village, +with all its inhabitants, upwards of 8,000 in number, were precipitated +into the gulf, which immediately closed over its prey. + + +EARTHQUAKES IN CALABRIA + + +Of the numerous other examples of destructive earthquakes which might +be chosen from Old World annals, it will not be amiss to append a brief +account of those which took place in Calabria, Italy, in 1783. These, +while less wide-spread in their influence, were much longer in duration +than the Lisbon cataclysm, since they continued, at intervals, from the +5th of February until the end of the year. The shocks were felt all over +Sicily and as far north as Naples, but the area of severe convulsion was +comparatively limited, not exceeding five hundred square miles. + +The centre of disturbance seems to have been under the town of Oppido in +the farther Calabria, and it extended in every direction from that +spot to a distance of about twenty-two miles, with such violence as to +overthrow every city, town and village lying within that circle. This +ruin was accomplished by the first shock on the 5th of February. The +second, of equal violence, on the 28th of March, was less destructive, +only because little or nothing had been left for it to overthrow. + +At Oppido the motion was in the nature of a vertical upheaval of the +ground, which was accompanied by the opening of numerous large chasms, +into some of which many houses were ingulfed, the chasms closing over +them again almost immediately. The town itself was situated on the +summit of a hill, flanked by five steep and difficult slopes; it was +so completely overthrown by the first shock that scarcely a fragment of +wall was left standing. The hill itself was not thrown down, but a fort +which commanded the approach to the place was hurled into the gorge +below. It was on the flats immediately surrounding the site of the town +and on the rising grounds beyond them that the great fissures and chasms +were opened. On the slope of one of the hills opposite the town there +appeared a vast chasm, in which a large quantity of soil covered with +vines and olive-trees was engulfed. This chasm remained open after the +shock, and was somewhat in the form of an amphitheatre, 500 feet long +and 200 feet in depth. + + +MOST CALAMITOUS OF THE LANDSLIPS + + +The most calamitous of the landslips occurred on the sea-coast of the +Straits of Messina, near the celebrated rock of Scilla, where huge +masses fell from the tall cliffs, overwhelming many villas and gardens. +At Gian Greco a continuous line of precipitous rocks, nearly a mile in +length, tumbled down. The aged Prince of Scilla, after the first great +shock on the 5th of February, persuaded many of his vassals to quit +the dangerous shore, and take refuge in the fishing boats--he himself +showing the example. That same night, however, while many of the people +were asleep in the boats, and others on a flat plain a little above the +sea-level, another powerful shock threw down from the neighboring Mount +Jaci a great mass, which fell with a dreadful crash, partly into the +sea, and partly upon the plain beneath. Immediately the sea rose to a +height of twenty feet above the level ground on which the people were +stationed, and rolling over it, swept away the whole multitude. This +immense wave then retired, but returned with still greater violence, +bringing with it the bodies of the men and animals it had previously +swept away, dashing to pieces the whole of the boats, drowning all that +were in them, and wafting the fragments far inland. The prince with +1,430 of his people perished by this disaster. + +It was on the north-eastern shore of Sicily, however, that the greatest +amount of damage was done. The first severe shock, on the 5th of +February, overthrew nearly the whole of the beautiful city of Messina, +with great loss of life. The shore for a considerable distance along the +coast was rent, and the ground along the port, which was before quite +level, became afterwards inclined towards the sea, the depth of the +water having, at the same time, increased in several parts, through the +displacement of portions of the bottom. The quay also subsided about +fourteen inches below the level of the sea, and the houses near it +were much rent. But it was in the city itself that the most terrible +desolation was wrought--a complication of disasters having followed +the shock, more especially a fierce conflagration, whose intensity was +augmented by the large stores of oil kept in the place. + + +IMMENSE DESTRUCTION + + +According to official reports made soon after the events, the +destruction caused by the earthquakes of the 5th of February and 28th +of March throughout the two Calabrias was immense. About 320 towns +and villages were entirely reduced to ruins, and about fifty others +seriously damaged. The loss of life was appalling--40,000 having +perished by the earthquakes, and 20,000 more having subsequently died +from privation and exposure, or from epidemic diseases bred by the +stagnant pools and the decaying carcases of men and animals. The greater +number were buried amid the ruins of the houses, while others perished +in the fires that were kindled in most of the towns, particularly in +Oppido, where the flames were fed by great magazines of oil. Not a few, +especially among the peasantry dwelling in the country, were suddenly +engulfed in fissures. Many who were only half buried in the ruins, and +who might have been saved had there been help at hand, were left to +die a lingering death from cold and hunger. Four Augustine monks at +Terranuova perished thus miserably. Having taken refuge in a vaulted +sacristy, they were entombed in it alive by the masses of rubbish, +and lingered for four days, during which their cries for help could be +heard, till death put an end to their sufferings. + +Of still more thrilling interest was the case of the Marchioness +Spastara. Having fainted at the moment of the first great shock, she was +lifted by her husband, who, bearing her in his arms, hurried with her to +the harbor. Here, on recovering her senses, she observed that her infant +boy had been left behind. Taking advantage of a moment when her husband +was too much occupied to notice her, she darted off and, running back +to the house, which was still standing, she snatched her babe from its +cradle. Rushing with him in her arms towards the staircase, she +found the stair had fallen--cutting off all further progress in that +direction. She fled from room to room, pursued by the falling materials, +and at length reached a balcony as her last refuge. Holding up her +infant, she implored the few passers-by for help; but they all, intent +on securing their own safety, turned a deaf ear to her cries. Meanwhile +the mansion had caught fire, and before long the balcony, with the +devoted lady still grasping her darling, was hurled into the devouring +flames. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +The Charleston and Other Earthquakes of the United States. + + +The twin continents of America have rivalled the record of the Old World +in their experience of earthquakes since their discovery in 1492. The +first of these made note of was in Venezuela in 1530, but they have been +numerous and often disastrous since. Among them was the great shock at +Lima in 1746, by which 18,000 were killed, and those at Guatemala in +1773, with 33,000, and at Riobamba in 1797, with 41,000 victims. It +will, however, doubtless prove of more interest to our readers if we +pass over these ruinous disasters and confine ourselves to the less +destructive earthquakes which have taken place within our own country. + +The United States, large a section of North America as it occupies, is +fortunate in being in a great measure destitute of volcanic phenomena, +while destructive earthquakes have been very rare in its history. This, +it is true, does not apply to the United States as it is, but as it was. +It has annexed the volcano and the earthquake with its new accessions of +territory. Alaska has its volcanoes, the Philippines are subject to +both forms of convulsion, and in Hawaii we possess the most spectacular +volcano of the earth, while the earthquake is its common attendant. +But in the older United States the volcano contents itself with an +occasional puff of smoke, and eruptive phenomena are confined to the +minor form of the geyser. + +We are by no means so free from the earthquake. Slight movements of the +earth’s surface are much more common than many of us imagine, and in +the history of our land there have been a number of earth shocks +of considerable violence. Prior to that of San Francisco, the most +destructive to life and property was that of Charleston in 1886, though +the 1812 convulsion in the Mississippi Valley might have proved a +much greater calamity but for the fact that civilized man had not then +largely invaded its centre of action. + +As regards the number of earth movements in this country, we are told +that in New England alone 231 were recorded in two hundred and fifty +years, while doubtless many slighter ones were left unrecorded. Taking +the whole United States, there were 364 recorded in the twelve years +from 1872 to 1883, and in 1885 fifty-nine were recorded, more than +two-thirds of them being on the Pacific slope. Most of these, however, +were very slight, some of them barely perceptible. + +Confining ourselves to those of the past important in their effects, we +shall first speak of the shocks which took place in New England in 1755, +in the year and month of the great earthquake at Lisbon. On the 18th of +November of that year, while the shocks at Lisbon still continued, +New England was violently shaken, loud underground explosive noises +accompanying the shocks. In the harbors along the Atlantic coast there +was much agitation of the waters and many dead fish were thrown up on +the shores. The shock, indeed, was felt far from the coast, by the +crew of a ship more than two hundred miles out at sea from Cape Ann, +Massachusetts. + +This event, however, was of minor importance, being much inferior to +that of 1812, in which year California and the Mississippi Valley alike +were affected by violent movements of the earth’s crust. The California +convulsions took place in the spring and summer of that year, extending +from the beginning of May until September. Throughout May the southern +portion of that region was violently agitated, the shocks being so +frequent and severe that people abandoned their houses and slept on the +open ground. The most destructive shocks came in September, when two +Mission houses were destroyed and many of their inmates killed. At Santa +Barbara a tidal wave invaded the coast and flowed some distance into the +interior. + +It may be said here that California has proved more subject to severe +shocks than any other section of our country. In 1865 sharp tremors +shook the whole region about the Bay of San Francisco, many buildings +being thrown down. Hardly any of brick or stone escaped injury, though +few lives were lost. In 1872 a disturbance was felt farther west, the +whole range of the Sierra Nevada mountains being violently shaken and +the earth tremblings extending into the State of Nevada. The centre of +activity was along the crest of the range, and immense quantities of +rock were thrown down from the mountain pinnacles. A tremendous fissure +opened along the eastern base of the mountain range for forty miles, +the land to the west of the opening rising and that to the east sinking +several feet. One small settlement, that of Lone Pine, in Owen’s Valley, +on the east base of the mountains, was completely demolished, from +twenty to thirty lives being lost. Luckily, the region affected had very +few inhabitants, or the calamity might have been great. + +The earthquakes of 1812 in the Mississippi Valley began in December, +1811, and continued at intervals until 1813. As a rule they were more +distinguished by frequency than violence, though on several occasions +they were severe and had marked effects. They extended through +the valleys of the Mississippi, Arkansas and Ohio, and their long +continuance was remarkable in view of the territory affected being far +from any volcanic region. + +The surface of the valley of the Mississippi was a good deal altered +by these convulsions--several new lakes being formed, while others were +drained. Several new islands were also raised in the river, and during +one of the shocks the ground a little below New Madrid was for a short +time lifted so high as to stop the current of the Mississippi, and cause +it to flow backward. The ground on which this town is built, and the +bank of the river for fifteen miles above it, subsided permanently about +eight feet, and the cemetery of the town fell into the river. In the +neighboring forest the trees were thrown into inclined positions in +every direction, and many of their trunks and branches were broken. It +is affirmed that in some places the ground swelled into great waves, +which burst at their summits and poured forth jets of water, along with +sand and pieces of coal, which were tossed as high as the tops of trees. +On the subsidence of these waves, there were left several hundreds +of hollow depressions from ten to thirty yards in diameter, and about +twenty feet in depth, which remained visible for many years afterward. +Some of the shocks were vertical, and others horizontal, the latter +being the most mischievous. These earthquakes resulted in the general +subsidence of a large tract of country, between seventy and eighty miles +in length from north to south, and about thirty miles in breadth from +east to west. Lakes now mark many of the localities affected by the +earthquake movements. It is only to the fact that this country was then +very thinly settled that a great loss of life was avoided. + +New Madrid, Missouri, was a central point of this earthquake, the +shocks there being repeated with great frequency for several months. +The disturbance of the earth, however, was not confined to the United +States, but affected nearly half of the western hemisphere, ending +in the upheaval of Sabrina in the Azores, already described. The +destruction of Caracas, Venezuela, with many thousands of its +inhabitants, and the eruption of La Soufriere volcano of St. Vincent +Island were incidents of this convulsion. Dr. J. W. Foster tells us that +on the night of the disaster at Caracas the earthquake grew intense at +New Madrid, fissures being opened six hundred feet long by twenty broad, +from which water and sand were flung to the height of forty feet. + +The most destructive of earthquakes in our former history was that which +visited Charleston, South Carolina, in 1886, the injury caused by it +being largely due to the fact that it passed through a populous city. +As it occurred after many of the people had retired, the confusion and +terror due to it were greatly augmented, people fleeing in panic fear +from the tumbling and cracking houses to seek refuge in the widest +streets and open spaces. + +South Carolina had been affected by the wide-spread earthquakes of 1812. +These in some cases altered the level of the land, as is related in +Lyell’s “Principles of Geology.” But the effect then was much less than +in 1886. Several slight tremors occurred in the early summer of that +year, but did not excite much attention. More distinct shocks were felt +on August 27th and 28th, but the climax was deferred till the evening of +August 31st. The atmosphere that afternoon had been unusually sultry and +quiet, the breeze from the ocean, which generally accompanies the rising +tide, was almost entirely absent, and the setting sun caused a little +glow in the sky. + +“As the hour of 9.50 was reached,” we are told, “there was suddenly +heard a rushing, roaring sound, compared by some to a train of cars +at no great distance, by others to a clatter produced by two or more +omnibuses moving at a rapid rate over a paved street, by others again, +to an escape of steam from a boiler. It was followed immediately by a +thumping and beating of the earth beneath the houses, which rocked +and swayed to and fro. Furniture was violently moved and dashed to the +floor; pictures were swung from the walls, and in some cases turned +with their backs to the front, and every movable thing was thrown +into extraordinary convulsions. The greatest intensity of the shock is +considered to have been during the first half, and it was probably +then, during the period of its greatest sway, that so many chimneys +were broken off at the junction of the roof. The duration of this severe +shock is thought to have been from thirty-five to forty seconds. The +impression produced on many was that it could be subdivided into three +distinct movements, while others were of the opinion that it was +one continuous movement, or succession of waves, with the greatest +intensity, as already stated, during the first half of its duration.” + +Twenty-seven persons were killed outright, and more than that number +died soon after of their hurts or from exposure; many others were less +seriously injured. Among the buildings, the havoc, though much less +disastrous than has been recorded in some other earthquakes in either +hemisphere, was very great. “There was not a building in the city which +had escaped serious injury. The extent of the damage varied greatly, +ranging from total demolition down to the loss of chimney tops and the +dislodgment of more or less plastering. The number of buildings which +were completely demolished and levelled to the ground was not great; but +there were several hundreds which lost a large portion of their +walls. There were very many also which remained standing, but so badly +shattered that public safety required that they should be pulled down +altogether. There was not, so far as at present is known, a brick or +stone building which was not more or less cracked, and in most of them +the cracks were a permanent disfigurement and a source of danger +and inconvenience.” In some places the railway track was curiously +distorted. “It was often displaced laterally, and sometimes alternately +depressed and elevated. Occasionally several lateral flexures of double +curvature and of great amount were exhibited. Many hundred yards of +track had been shoved bodily to the south eastward.” + +The ground was fissured at some places in the city to a depth of many +feet, and numerous “craterlets” were formed, from which sand was ejected +in considerable quantities. These are not uncommon phenomena, and were +due, no doubt, to the squirting of water out of saturated sandy layers +not far below the surface; these being squeezed between two less +pervious beds in the passage of the earthquake wave. The ejected +material in the Charleston earthquake was ordinary sand, such as +might exist in many districts which had been quite undisturbed by any +concussions of the earth. + +Captain Dutton made a careful study of the observations collected +by himself and others concerning this earthquake, and came to the +conclusion that the Charleston wave traveled with unusual speed, for +its mean velocity was about 17,000 feet a second. The focus of the +disturbance was also ascertained. Apparently it was a double one, the +two centres being about thirteen miles apart, and the line joining +them running nearly the same distance to the west of Charleston. The +approximate depth of the principal focus is given as twelve miles, +with a possible error of less than two miles; that of the minor one as +roughly eight miles. + +The Charleston earthquake was felt as a tremor of more or less force +through a wide area, embracing 900,000 square miles, and affecting +nearly the whole country east of the Mississippi. It is said that the +yield of the Pennsylvania natural gas wells decreased, and that a geyser +in the Yellowstone valley burst into action after four years of rest. +The movement of the earth-wave was in general north and south, deflected +to east and west, and the snake-like fashion in which rails on the +railroad were bent indicated both a vertical and a lateral force. + +This earthquake has been attributed to various causes, but geological +experts think that it was due to a slip in the crust along the +Appalachian Mountain chain. There is a line of weakness along the +eastern slope of this chain, characterized by fissures and faults, and +it was thought that a strain had been gradually brought to bear upon +this through the removal of earth from the land by rains and rivers and +its deposition in thick strata on the sea-bottom. It is supposed that +this variation in weight in time caused a yielding of the strata and a +slip seaward of the great coastal plain. Professor Mendenhall, however, +thinks it was due to a readjustment of the earth’s crust to its +gradually sinking nucleus. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +The Volcano and the Earthquake, Earth’s Demons of Destruction. + + +To most of us, dwellers upon the face of the earth, this terrestrial +sphere is quite a comfortable place of residence. The forces of Nature +everywhere and at all times surround us, forces capable, if loosened +from their bonds, of bringing death and destruction to man and the work +of his hands. But usually they are mild and beneficent in their action, +not agents of destruction and lords of elemental misrule. The air, +without whose presence we could not survive a minute, is usually a +pleasant companion, now resting about us in soft calm, now passing by in +mild breezes. The alternation of summer and winter is to us generally an +agreeable relief from the monotony of a uniform climate. The variation +from sunlight to cloud, from dry weather to rainfall, is equally viewed +as a pleasant escape from the weariness of too great fixity of natural +conditions. The change from day to night, from hours of activity to +hours of slumber, are other agreeable variations in the events of our +daily life. In short, a great pendulum seems to be swinging above us, +held in Nature’s kindly hand, and adapting its movements to our best +good and highest enjoyment. + +But has Nature,--if we are justified in personifying the laws and forces +of the universe,--has mother Nature really our pleasure and benefit in +mind, or does she merely suffer us to enjoy life like so many summer +insects, until she is in the mood to sweep us like leaves from her +path? It must seem the latter to many of the inhabitants of the earth, +especially to the dwellers in certain ill-conditioned regions. For all +the beneficent powers above named may at a moment’s notice change to +destructive ones. + + +THE WIND IS A DEMON IN CHAINS + + +The wind, for instance, is a demon in chains. At times it breaks its +fetters and rushes on in mad fury, rending and destroying, and sweeping +such trifles as cities and those who dwell therein to common ruin. +Sunshine and rain are subject to like wild caprices. The sun may pour +down burning rays for weeks and months together, scorching the fertile +fields, drying up the life-giving streams, bringing famine and misery +to lands of plenty and comfort, almost making the blood to boil in our +veins. Its antithesis, the rainstorm, is at times a still more terrible +visitant. From the dense clouds pour frightful floods, rushing down +the lofty hills, sweeping over fertile plains, overflowing broad river +valleys, and, wherever they go, leaving terror and death in their path. +We may say the same of the alternation of the seasons. Summer, while +looked forward to with joyous anticipation, may bring us only +suffering by its too ardent grasp; and winter, often welcomed with like +pleasurable anticipations, may prove a period of terror from cold and +destitution. + +Such is the make-up of the world in which we live, such the vagaries of +the forces which surround us. But those enumerated are not the whole. +Can we say, with a stamp of the foot upon the solid earth, “Here at +least I have something I can trust; let the winds blow and the rains +descend, let the summer scorch and the winter chill, the good earth +still stands firm beneath me, and of it at least I am sure?” + +Who says so speaks hastily and heedlessly, for the earth can show itself +as unstable as the air, and our solid footing become as insecure as the +deck of a ship laboring in a storm at sea. The powers of the atmosphere, +great as they are and mighty for destruction as they may become, are at +times surpassed by those which abide within the earth, deep laid in the +so-called everlasting rocks, slumbering often through generations, but +at any time likely to awaken in wrath, to lift the earth into quaking +billows like those of the sea, or pour forth torrents of liquid fire +that flow in glowing and burning rivers over leagues of ruined land. +Such is the earth with which we have to deal, such the ruthless powers +of nature that spread around us and lurk beneath us, such the terrific +forces which only bide their time to break forth and sweep too-confident +man from the earth’s smiling face. + + +THE SUBTERRANEAN POWERS + + +The subterranean powers here spoken of, those we had denominated earth’s +demons of destruction, are the volcano and the earthquake, the great +moulding forces of the earth, tearing down to rebuild, rending to +reconstitute, and in this elemental work often bringing ruin to man’s +boasted fanes and palaces. + +No one who has ever seen a volcano or “burning mountain” casting forth +steam, huge red-hot stones, smoke, cinders and lava, can possibly forget +the grandeur of the spectacle. At night it is doubly terrible, when +the darkness shows the red-hot lava rolling in glowing streams down +the mountain’s side. At times, indeed, the volcano is quiet, and only +a little smoke curls from its top. Even this may cease, and the once +burning summit may be covered over with trees and grass, like any other +hill. But deep down in the earth the gases and pent-up steam, are ever +preparing to force their way upward through the mountain, and to carry +with them dissolved rocks, and the stones which block their passage. +Sometimes, while all is calm and beautiful on the mountains, suddenly +deep-sounding noises are heard, the ground shakes, and a vast torrent +tears its way through the bowels of the volcano, and is flung hundreds +of feet high in the air, and, falling again to the earth, destroys every +living thing for miles around. + +It is the same with the earthquake as with the volcano. The surface of +the earth is never quite still. Tremors are constantly passing onward +which can be distinguished by delicate instruments, but only rarely are +these of sufficient force to become noticeable, except by instrumental +means. At intervals, however, the power beneath the surface raises +the ground in long, billow-like motions, before which, when of violent +character, no edifice or human habitation can for a moment stand. The +earth is frequently rent asunder, great fissures and cavities being +formed. The course of rivers is changed and the waters are swallowed up +by fissures rent in the surface, while ruin impends in a thousand +forms. The cities become death pits and the cultivated fields are buried +beneath floods of liquid mud. Fortunately these convulsions, alike of +the earthquake and volcano, are comparative rarities and are confined +to limited regions of the earth’s surface. What do we know of those +deep-lying powers, those vast buried forces dwelling in uneasy isolation +beneath our feet? With all our science we are but a step beyond the +ancients, to whom these were the Titans, great rebel giants whom Jupiter +overthrew and bound under the burning mountains, and whose throes of +agony shook the earth in quaking convulsions. To us the volcanic crater +is the mouth from which comes the fiery breath of demon powers which +dwell far down in the earth’s crust. The Titans themselves were dwarfs +beside these mighty agents of destruction whose domain extends for +thousands of miles beneath the earth’s surface and which in their +convulsions shake whole continents at once. Such was the case in 1812, +when the eruption of Mont Soufriere on St. Vincent, as told in a later +chapter, formed merely the closing event in a series of earthquakes +which had made themselves felt under thousands of miles of land. + + +ANCIENT AWE OF VOLCANOES + + +In olden times volcanoes were regarded with superstitious awe, and it +would have been considered highly impious to make any investigation of +their actions. We are told by Virgil that Mt. Etna marks the spot where +the gods in their anger buried Enceladus, one of the rebellious giants. +To our myth-making ancestors one of the volcanoes of the Mediterranean, +set on a small island of the Lipari group, was the workshop of Vulcan, +the god of fire, within whose depths he forged the thunderbolts of the +gods. From below came sounds as of a mighty hammer on a vast anvil. +Through the mountain vent came the black smoke and lurid glow from +the fires of Vulcan’s forge. This old myth is in many respects more +consonant with the facts of nature than myths usually are. In agreement +with the theory of its internal forces, the mountain in question was +given the name of Volcano. To-day it is scarcely known at all, but its +name clings to all the fire-breathing mountains of the earth. + +As before said, at the present day we are little in advance of the +ancients in actual knowledge of what is going on so far beneath our +feet. We speak of forces where they spoke of fettered giants, but can +only form theories where they formed myths. Is the earth’s centre made +up of liquid fire? Does its rock crust resemble the thick ice crust on +the Arctic Seas, or is the earth, as later scientists believe, solid to +the core? Is it heated so fiercely, miles below our feet, that at every +release of pressure the solid rock bursts into molten lava? Is the steam +from the contact of underground rivers and deep-lying fires the origin +of the terrible rending powers of the volcano’s depths? Truly we can +answer none of these questions with assurance, and can only guess +and conjecture from the few facts open to us what lies concealed far +beneath. + + +RARITY OF ANCIENT ACCOUNTS + + +In the history of earthquakes nothing is more remarkable than the +extreme fewness of those recorded before the beginning of the Christian +era, in comparison with those that have been registered since that time. +It is to be borne in mind, however, that before the birth of Christ only +a small portion of the globe was inhabited by those likely to make a +record of natural events. The vast apparent increase in the number +of earthquakes in recent times is owing to a greater knowledge of +the earth’s surface and to the spread of civilization over lands once +inhabited by savages. The same is to be said of volcanic eruptions, +which also have apparently increased greatly since the beginning of the +Christian era. There may possibly have been a natural increase in these +phenomena, but this is hardly probable, the change being more likely due +to the increase in the number of observers. + +The structure of a volcano is very different from that of other +mountains, really consisting of layers of lava and volcanic ashes, +alternating with each other and all sloping away from the center. These +elevations, in fact, are formed in a different manner from ordinary +mountains. The latter have been uplifted by the influence of pressure in +the interior of the earth, but the volcano is an immediate result of the +explosive force of which we have spoken, the mountain being gradually +built up by the lava and other materials which it has flung up from +below. In this way mountains of immense height and remarkable regularity +have been formed. Mount Orizabo, near the City of Mexico, for instance, +is a remarkably regular cone, undoubtedly formed in this way, and the +same may be said of Mount Mayon, on the Island of Luzon. + +In many cases the irregularity of the volcano is due to subsequent +action of its forces, which may blow the mountain itself to pieces. +In the case of Krakatoa, in the East Indies, for instance, the whole +mountain was rent into fragments, which were flung as dust miles high +into the air. The main point we wish to indicate is that volcanoes are +never formed by ordinary elevating forces and that they differ in this +way from all other mountains. On the contrary, they have been piled up +like rubbish heaps, resembling the small mountains of coal dust near the +mouths of anthracite mines. + +It is to the burning heat of the earth’s crust and the influence of +pressure, and more largely to the influx of water to the molten rocks +which lie miles below the surface, that these convulsions of nature are +due. Water, on reaching these overheated strata, explodes into volumes +of steam, and if there is no free vent to the surface, it is apt to rend +the very mountain asunder in its efforts to escape. Such is supposed +to have been the case in the eruption of Krakatoa, and was probably the +case also in the recent case of Mt. Pelee. + + +GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ERUPTIONS + + +If we should seek to give a general description of volcanic eruptions, +it would be in some such words as follows: An eruption is usually +preceded by earthquakes which affect the whole surrounding country, +and associated with which are underground explosions that seem like +the sound of distant artillery. The mountain quivers with internal +convulsions, due to the efforts of its confined forces to find an +opening. The drying up of wells and disappearance of springs are apt to +take place, the water sinking downward through cracks newly made in the +rocks. Finally the fierce unchained energy rends an opening through the +crater and an eruption begins. It comes usually with a terrible burst +that shakes the mountain to its foundation; explosions following rapidly +and with increasing violence, while steam issues and mounts upward in +a lofty column. The steam and escaping gases in their fierce outbreaks +hurl up into the air great quantities of solid rock torn from the sides +of the opening. The huge blocks, meeting each other in their rise and +fall, are gradually broken and ground into minute fragments, forming +dust or so-called ashes, often of extreme fineness, and in such +quantities as frequently to blot out the light of the sun. There is +another way in which a great deal of volcanic dust is made; the lava is +full of steam, which in its expansion tears the molten rock into atoms, +often converting it into the finest dust. + +The eruption of Mt. Skaptar, in Iceland, in 1783, sent up such volumes +of dust that the atmosphere was loaded with it for months, and it +was carried to the northern part of Scotland, 600 miles away, in such +quantities as to destroy the crops. During the eruption of Tomboro, in +the East Indies, in 1815, so great was the quantity of dust thrown up +that it caused darkness at midday in Java 300 miles away and covered the +ground to a depth of several inches. Floating pumice formed a layer +on the ocean surface two and a half feet in thickness, through which +vessels had difficulty in forcing their way. + +The steam which rises in large volumes into the air may become suddenly +condensed with the chill of the upper atmosphere and fall as rain, +torrents of which often follow an eruption. The rain, falling through +the clouds of volcanic dust, brings it to the earth as liquid mud, which +pours in thick streams down the sides of the mountain. The torrents of +flowing mud are sometimes on such a great scale that large towns, as in +the instance of the great city of Herculaneum, may be completely buried +beneath them. Over this city the mud accumulated to the depth of over 70 +feet. In addition to these phenomena, molten lava often flows from the +lip of the crater, occasionally in vast quantities. In the Icelandic +eruption of 1783 the lava streams were so great in quantity as to fill +river gorges 600 ft. deep and 200 ft. wide, and to extend over an open +plain to a distance of 12 to 15 miles, forming lakes of lava 100 feet +deep. The volcanoes of Hawaii often send forth streams of lava which +cover an area of over 100 square miles to a great depth. + + +GREAT OUTFLOWS OF LAVA + + +In the course of ages lava outflows of this kind have built up in Hawaii +a volcanic mountain estimated to contain enough material to cover the +whole of the United States with a layer of rock 50 feet deep. These +great outflows of lava are not confined to mountains, but take place now +and then from openings in the ground, or from long cracks in the surface +rocks. Occasionally great eruptions have taken place beneath the +ocean’s surface, throwing up material in sufficient quantity to form new +islands. + +The formation of mud is not confined to the method given, but great +quantities of this plastic material flow at times from volcanic craters. +In the year 1691 Imbaburu, one of the peaks of the Andes, sent out +floods of mud which contained dead fish in such abundance that their +decay caused a fever in the vicinity. The volcanoes of Java have often +buried large tracts of fertile country under volcanic mud. + +An observation of volcanoes shows us that they have three well marked +phases of action. The first of these is the state of permanent eruption, +as in case of the volcano of Stromboli in the Mediterranean. This state +is not a dangerous one, since the steam, escaping continually, acts as +a safety valve. The second stage is one of milder activity with an +occasional somewhat violent eruption; this is apt to be dangerous, +though not often very greatly so. The safety valve is partly out of +order. The third phase is one in which long periods of repose, sometimes +lasting for centuries, are followed by eruptions of intense energy. +These are often of extreme violence and cause widespread destruction. In +this case the safety valve has failed to work and the boiler bursts. + + +OFTEN REST FOR LONG TERMS OF YEARS + + +Such are the general features of action in the vast powers which +dwell deep beneath the surface, harmless in most parts of the earth, +frightfully perilous in others. Yet even here they often rest for long +terms of years in seeming apathy, until men gather above their lurking +places in multitudes, heedless or ignorant of the sleeping demons that +bide their time below. Their time is sure to come, after years, perhaps +after centuries. Suddenly the solid earth begins to tremble and quake; +roars as of one of the buried giants of old strike all men with dread; +then, with a fierce convulsion, a mountain is rent in twain and vast +torrents of steam, burning rock, and blinding dust are hurled far upward +into the air, to fall again and bury cities, perhaps, with all their +inhabitants in indiscriminate ruin and death. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Theories of Volcanic and Earthquake Action. + + +Though the first formation of a volcano (Italian, vulcano, from Vulcan, +the Roman god of fire) has seldom been witnessed, it would seem that it +is marked by earthquake movements followed by the opening of a rent or +fissure; but with no such tilting up of the rocks as was once supposed +to take place. From this fissure large volumes of steam issue, +accompanied by hydrogen, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, hydrochloric +acid, and sulphur dioxide. The hydrogen, apparently derived from the +dissociation of water at a high temperature, flashes explosively into +union with atmospheric oxygen, and, having exerted its explosive force, +the steam condenses into cloud, heavy masses of which overhang the +volcano, pouring down copious rains. This naturally disturbs the +electrical condition of the atmosphere, so that thunder and lightning +are frequent accompaniments of an eruption. The hydrochloric acid +probably points to the agency of sea-water. Besides the gases just +mentioned, sulphuretted hydrogen, ammonia and common salt occur; but +mainly as secondary products, formed by the union of the vapors issuing +from the volcano, and commonly found also in the vapors rising from +cooling lava streams or dormant volcanic districts. It is important to +notice that the vapors issue from the volcano spasmodically, explosions +succeeding each other with great rapidity and noise. + +All substances thrown out by the volcano, whether gaseous, liquid or +solid, are conveniently united under the term ejectamenta (Latin, things +thrown out), and all of them are in an intensely heated, if not an +incandescent state. Most of the gases are incombustible, but the +hydrogen and those containing sulphur burn with a true flame, perhaps +rendered more visible by the presence of solid particles. Much of the +so-called flame, however, in popular descriptions of eruptions is +an error of observation due to the red-hot solid particles and the +reflection of the glowing orifice on the over-hanging clouds. + + +ENORMOUS FORCE DISPLAYED + + +Solid bodies are thrown into the air with enormous force and to +proportionally great heights, those not projected vertically falling in +consequence at considerable distances from the volcano. A block weighing +200 tons is said to have been thrown nine miles by Cotopaxi; masses +of rock weighing as much as twenty tons to have been ejected by +Mount Ararat in 1840; and stones to have been hurled to a distance +of thirty-six miles in other cases. The solid matter thrown out by +volcanoes consists of lapilli, scoriae, dust and bombs. + +Though on the first formation of the volcano, masses of non-volcanic +rock may be torn from the chimney or pipe of the mountain, only slightly +fused externally owing to the bad conducting power of most rocks, +and hurled to a distance; and though at the beginning of a subsequent +eruption the solid plug of rock which has cooled at the bottom of the +crater, or, in fact, any part of the volcano, may be similarly blown up, +the bulk of the solid particles of which the volcano itself is composed +is derived from the lake of lava or molten rock which seethes at the +orifice. Solid pieces rent from this fused mass and cast up by the +explosive force of the steam with which the lava is saturated are known +as lapilli. Cooling rapidly so as to be glassy in texture externally, +these often have time to become perfectly crystalline within. + +Gases and steam escaping from other similar masses may leave them +hollow, when they are termed bombs, or may pit their surfaces with +irregular bubble-cavities, when they are called scoriae or scoriaceous. +Such masses whirling through the air in a plastic state often become +more or less oblately spheroidal in form; but, as often, the explosive +force of their contained vapors shatters them into fragments, producing +quantities of the finest volcanic dust or sand. This fine dust darkens +the clouds overhanging the mountain, mixes with the condensed steam to +fall as a black mud-rain, or lava di aqua (Italian, water lava), or +is carried up to enormous heights, and then slowly diffused by upper +currents of the atmosphere. In the eruption of Vesuvius of A.D. 79, the +air was dark as midnight for twelve or fifteen miles round; the city of +Pompeii was buried beneath a deposit of dry scoriae, or ashes and dust, +and Herculaneum beneath a layer of the mud-like lava di aqua, which on +drying sets into a compact rock. Rocks formed from these fragmentary +volcanic materials are known as tuff. + + +VOLCANIC CONES HAVE SIMILAR CURVATURES + + +It is entirely of these cindery fragments heaped up with marvellous +rapidity round the orifice that the volcano itself is first formed. It +may, as in the case of Jorullo in Mexico in 1759, form a cone several +hundred feet high in less than a day. Such a cone may have a slope as +steep as 30 or 40 degrees, its incline in all cases depending simply on +the angle of repose of its materials; the inclination, that is, at which +they stop rolling. The great volcanoes of the Andes, which are formed +mainly of ash, are very steep. Owing to a general similarity in their +materials, volcanic cones in all parts of the world have very similar +curvatures; but older volcanic mountains, in which lava-streams have +broken through the cone, secondary cones have arisen, or portions +have been blown up, are more irregular in outline and more gradual in +inclination. + +In size, volcanoes vary from mere mounds a few yards in diameter, such +as the salses or mud volcanoes near the Caspian, to Etna, 10,800 feet +high, with a base 30 miles in diameter; Cotopaxi, in the Andes, 18,887 +feet high; or Mauna Loa, in the Sandwich Isles, 13,700 feet high; with +a base 70 miles in diameter, and two craters, one of which, Kilauea, the +largest active crater on our earth, is seven miles in circuit. Larger +extinct craters occur in Japan; but all our terrestrial volcanic +mountains are dwarfed by those observed on the surface of the moon, +which, owing to its smaller size, has cooled more rapidly than our +earth. It is, of course, the explosive force from below which keeps +the crater clear, as a cup-shaped hollow, truncating the cone; and all +stones falling into it would be only thrown out again. It may at the +close of an eruption cool down so completely that a lake can form within +it, such as Lake Averno, near Naples; or it may long remain a seething +sea of lava, such as Kilauea; or the lava may find one or more outlets +from it, either by welling over its rim, which it will then generally +break down, as in many of the small extinct volcanoes (“puys”) of +Auvergne, or more usually by bursting through the sides of the cone. + + +LAVA VARIES VERY MUCH IN LIQUIDITY + + +It is not generally until the volcano has exhausted its first explosive +force that lava begins to issue. Several streams may issue in different +directions. Their dimensions are sometimes enormous. Lava varies very +much in liquidity and in the rate at which it flows. This much depends, +however, upon the slope it has to traverse. A lava stream at Vesuvius +ran three miles in four minutes, but took three hours to flow the next +three miles, while a stream from Mauna Loa ran eighteen miles in two +hours. Glowing at first as a white-hot liquid, the lava soon cools at +the surface to red and then to black; cinder-like scoriaceous masses +form on its surface and in front of the slowly-advancing mass; clouds of +steam and other vapor rise from it, and little cones are thrown up +from its surface; but many years may elapse before the mass is cooled +through. Thus, while the surface is glassy, the interior becomes +crystalline. + +As to what are the causes of the great convulsions of nature known as +the volcano and the earthquake we know very little. Various theories +have been advanced, but nothing by any means sure has been discovered, +and considerable difference of opinion exists. In truth we know so +little concerning the conditions existing in the earth’s interior +that any views concerning the forces at work there must necessarily be +largely conjectural. + +Sir Robert S. Ball says, in this connection: “Let us take, for instance, +that primary question in terrestrial physics, as to whether the interior +of the earth is liquid or solid. If we were to judge merely from the +temperatures reasonably believed to exist at a depth of some twenty +miles, and if we might overlook the question of pressure, we should +certainly say that the earth’s interior must be in a fluid state. It +seems at least certain that the temperatures to be found at depths of +two score miles, and still more at greater depths, must be so high that +the most refractory solids, whether metals or minerals, would at once +yield if we could subject them to such temperatures in our laboratories. +But none of our laboratory experiments can tell us whether, under the +pressure of thousands of tons on the square inch, the application of +any heat whatever would be adequate to transform solids into liquids. +It may, indeed, be reasonably doubted whether the terms solid and +liquid are applicable, in the sense in which we understand them, to the +materials forming the interior of the earth. + +“A principle, already well known in the arts, is that many, if not all, +solids may be made to flow like liquids if only adequate pressure be +applied. The making of lead tubes is a well-known practical illustration +of this principle, for these tubes are formed simply by forcing solid +lead by the hydraulic press through a mould which imparts the desired +shape. + +“If then a solid can be made to behave like a liquid, even with such +pressures as are within our control, how are we to suppose that the +solids would behave with such pressures as those to which they are +subjected in the interior of the earth? The fact is that the terms solid +and liquid, at least as we understand them, appear to have no physical +meaning with regard to bodies subjected to these stupendous pressures, +and this must be carefully borne in mind when we are discussing the +nature of the interior of the earth.” + + +THE VOLCANO A SAFETY VALVE + + +Whatever be the state of affairs in the depths of the earth’s crust, we +may look upon the volcano as a sort of safety-valve, opening a passage +for the pent-up forces to the surface, and thus relieving the earth from +the terrible effects of the earthquake, through which these imprisoned +powers so often make themselves felt. Without the volcanic vent there +might be no safety for man on the earth’s unquiet face. + +Professor J. C. Russell, of Michigan University, presents the following +views concerning the status and action of volcanoes:-- + +“When reduced to its simplest terms, a volcano may be defined as a +tube, or conduit, in the earth’s crust, through which the molten rock is +forced to the surface. The conduit penetrates the cool and rigid rocks +forming the superficial portion of the earth, and reaches its highly +heated interior. + +“The length of volcanic conduits can only be conjectured, but, judging +from the approximately known rate of increase of heat with depth (on an +average one degree Fahrenheit for each sixty feet), and the temperature +at which volcanic rocks melt (from 2,300 to 2,700 degrees Fahrenheit, +when not under pressure), they must seemingly have a depth of at least +twenty miles. There are other factors to be considered, but in general +terms it is safe to assume that the conduits of volcanoes are irregular +openings, many miles in depth, which furnish passageways for molten +rock (lava) from the highly-heated sub-crust portion of the earth to its +surface. . . .” + + +ERUPTIONS OF QUIET TYPE + + +“During eruptions of the quiet type, the lava comes to the surface in a +highly liquid condition--that is, it is thoroughly fused, and flows with +almost the freedom of water. It spreads widely, even on a nearly level +plain, and may form a comparatively thin sheet several hundred square +miles in area, as has been observed in Iceland and Hawaii. On the Snake +River plains, in Southern Idaho, there are sheets of once molten rock +which were poured out in the manner just stated, some four hundred +square miles in area and not over seventy-five feet in average +thickness. When an eruption of highly liquid lava occurs in a +mountainous region, the molten rock may cascade down deep slopes and +flow through narrow valleys for fifty miles or more before becoming +chilled sufficiently to arrest its progress. Instances are abundant +where quiet eruptions have occurred in the midst of a plain, and +built up ‘lava cones,’ or low mounds, with immensely expanded bases. +Illustrations are furnished in Southern Idaho, in which the cones formed +are only three hundred or four hundred feet high, but have a breadth at +the base of eight or ten miles. In the class of eruption illustrated +by these examples, there is an absence of fragmental material, such as +explosive volcanoes hurl into the air, and a person may stand within +a few yards of a rushing stream of molten rock, or examine closely the +opening from which it is being poured out, without danger or serious +inconvenience. + +“The quiet volcanic eruptions are attended by the escape of steam or +gases from the molten rock, but the lava being in a highly liquid +state, the steam and gases dissolved in it escape quietly and without +explosions. If, however, the molten rock is less completely fluid, or +in a viscous condition, the vapors and gases contained in it find +difficulty in escaping, and may be retained until, becoming concentrated +in large volume, they break their way to the surface, producing violent +explosions. Volcanoes in which the lava extruded is viscous, and the +escape of steam and gases is retarded until the pent-up energy bursts +all bounds, are of the explosive, type. One characteristic example is +Vesuvius. + +“When steam escapes from the summit of a volcanic conduit--which, in +plain terms, is a tall vessel filled with intensely hot and more or less +viscous liquid--masses of the liquid rock are blown into the air, and on +falling build up a rim or crater about the place of discharge. Commonly +the lava in the summit portion of a conduit becomes chilled and perhaps +hardened, and when a steam explosion occurs this crust is shattered and +the fragments hurled into the air and contributed to the building of the +walls of the inclosing crater. + +“The solid rock blown out by volcanoes consists usually of highly +vesicular material which hardened on the surface of the column of lava +within a conduit and was shattered by explosions beneath it. These +fragments vary in size from dust particles up to masses several feet in +diameter, and during violent eruptions are hurled miles high. The larger +fragments commonly fall near their place of origin, and usually furnish +the principal part of the material of which craters are built, but the +gravel-like kernels, lapilli, may be carried laterally several miles +if a wind is blowing, while the dust is frequently showered down on +thousands of square miles of land and sea. The solid and usually angular +fragments manufactured in this manner vary in temperature, and may still +be red hot on falling. + +“Volcanoes of the explosive type not uncommonly discharge streams of +lava, which may flow many miles. In certain instances these outwellings +of liquid rock occur after severe earthquakes and violent explosions, +and may have all the characteristics of quiet eruptions. There is +thus no fundamental difference between the two types into which it is +convenient to divide volcanoes.” + + +MOUNTAINS BLOW THEIR HEADS OFF + + +“In extreme examples of explosive volcanoes, the summit portion of a +crater, perhaps several miles in circumference and several thousand feet +high, is blown away. Such an occurrence is recorded in the case of +the volcano Coseguina, Nicaragua, in 1835. Or, an entire mountain may +disappear, being reduced to lapilli and dust and blown into the air, as +in the case of Krakatoa, in the Straits of Sunda, in 1883. + +“The essential feature of a volcano, as stated above, is a tube or +conduit, leading from the highly heated sub-crust portion of the earth +to the crater and through which molten rock is forced upward to the +surface. The most marked variations in the process depend on the +quantity of molten rock extruded, and on the freedom of escape of the +steam and gases contained in the lava. + +“The cause of the rise of the molten rock in a volcano is still a matter +for discussion. Certain geologists contend that steam is the sole motive +power; while others consider that the lava is forced to the surface +owing to pressure on the reservoir from which it comes. The view perhaps +most favorably entertained at present, in reference to the general +nature of volcanic eruptions, is that the rigid outer portion of the +earth becomes fractured, owing principally to movements resulting from +the shrinking of the cooling inner mass, and that the intensely hot +material reached by the fissures, previously solid owing to pressure, +becomes liquid when pressure is relieved, and is forced to the surface. +As the molten material rises it invades the water-charged rocks near +the surface and acquires steam, or the gases resulting from the +decomposition of water, and a new force is added which produces the +most conspicuous and at times the most terrible phenomena accompanying +eruptions.” + +The active agency of water is strongly maintained by many geologists, +and certainly gains support from the vast clouds of steam given off by +volcanoes in eruption and the steady and quiet emission of steam from +many in a state of rest. The quantities of water in the liquid state, +to which is due the frequent enormous outflows of mud, leads to the +same conclusion. Many scientists, indeed, while admitting the agency of +water, look upon this as the aqueous material originally pent up +within the rocks. For instance Professor Shaler, dean of the Lawrence +Scientific School, says: + +“Volcanic outbreaks are merely the explosion of steam under high +pressure, steam which is bound in rocks buried underneath the surface +of the earth and there subjected to such tremendous heat that when the +conditions are right its pent-up energy breaks forth and it shatters +its stone prison walls into dust. The process by which the water becomes +buried in this manner is a long one. Some contend that it leaks down +from the surface of the earth through fissures in the outer crust, but +this theory is not generally accepted. The common belief is that water +enters the rocks during the crystalization period, and that these rocks +through the natural action of rivers and streams become deposited in the +bottom of the ocean. Here they lie for many ages, becoming buried deeper +and deeper under masses of like sediment, which are constantly being +washed down upon them from above. This process is called the blanketing +process. + +“Each additional layer of sediment, while not raising the level of the +sea bottom, buries the first layers just so much the deeper and adds to +their temperature just as does the laying of extra blankets on a bed. +When the first layer has reached a depth of a few thousand feet the +rocks which contain the water of crystalization are subjected to a +terrific heat. This heat generates steam, which is held in a state of +frightful tension in its rocky prison. Wrinklings in the outer crust of +the earth’s surface occur, caused by the constant shrinking of the earth +itself and by the contraction of the outer surface as it settles on the +plastic centers underneath. Fissures are caused by these foldings, and +as these fissures reach down into the earth the pressure is removed from +the rocks and the compressed steam in them, being released, explodes +with tremendous force.” + +This view is, very probably, applicable to many cases, and the +exceedingly fine dust which so often rises from volcanoes has, +doubtless, for one of its causes the sudden and explosive conversion of +water into steam in the interior of ejected lava, thus rending it into +innumerable fragments. But that this is the sole mode of action of water +in volcanic eruptions is very questionable. It certainly does not agree +with the immense volumes at times thrown out, while explosions of +such extreme intensity as that of Krakatoa very strongly lead to the +conclusion that a great mass of water has made its way through newly +opened fissures to the level of molten rock, and exploded into steam +with a suddenness which gave it the rending force of dynamite or the +other powerful chemical explosives. + +As the earthquake is so intimately associated with the volcano the +causes of the latter are in great measure the causes of the former, and +the forces at work frequently produce a more or less violent quaking of +the earth’s surface before they succeed in opening a channel of escape +through the mountain’s heart. One agency of great potency, and one whose +work never ceases, has doubtless much to do with earthquake action. +In the description of this we cannot do better than to quote from “The +Earth’s Beginning” of Sir Robert S. Ball. + + +CAUSE OF EARTHQUAKES + + +“As to the immediate cause of earthquakes there is no doubt considerable +difference of opinion. But I think it will not be doubted that an +earthquake is one of the consequences, though perhaps a remote one, of +the gradual loss of internal heat from the earth. As this terrestrial +heat is gradually declining, it follows from the law that we have +already so often had occasion to use that the bulk of the earth must be +shrinking. No doubt the diminution in the earth’s diameter due to the +loss of heat must be exceedingly small, even in a long period of time. +The cause, however, is continually in operation, and, accordingly, the +crust of the earth has from time to time to be accommodated to the fact +that the whole globe is lessening. The circumference of our earth at +the equator must be gradually declining; a certain length in that +circumference is lost each year. We may admit that loss to be a quantity +far too small to be measured by any observations as yet obtainable, but, +nevertheless, it is productive of phenomena so important that it cannot +be overlooked. + +“It follows from these considerations that the rocks which form the +earth’s crust over the surface of the continents and the islands, or +beneath the bed of the ocean, must have a lessening acreage year +by year. These rocks must therefore submit to compression, either +continuously or from time to time, and the necessary yielding of the +rocks will in general take place in those regions where the materials +of the earth’s crust happen to have comparatively small powers of +resistance. The acts of compression will often, and perhaps generally, +not proceed with uniformity, but rather with small successive shifts, +and even though the displacements of the rocks in these shifts be +actually very small, yet the pressures to which the rocks are subjected +are so vast that a very small shift may correspond to a very great +terrestrial disturbance. + +“Suppose, for instance, that there is a slight shift in the rocks on +each side of a crack, or fault, at a depth of ten miles. It must be +remembered that the pressure ten miles down would be about thirty-five +tons to the square inch. Even a slight displacement of one extensive +surface over another, the sides being pressed together with a force of +thirty-five tons on the square inch, would be an operation necessarily +accompanied by violence greatly exceeding that which we might expect +from so small a displacement if the forces concerned had been of more +ordinary magnitude. On account of this great multiplication of the +intensity of the phenomenon, merely a small rearrangement of the +rocks in the crust of the earth, in pursuance of the necessary work of +accommodating its volume to the perpetual shrinkage, might produce an +excessively violent shock, extending far and wide. The effect of such a +shock would be propagated in the form of waves through the globe, just +as a violent blow given at one end of a bar of iron by a hammer is +propagated through the bar in the form of waves. When the effect of this +internal adjustment reaches the earth’s surface it will sometimes be +great enough to be perceptible in the shaking it gives that surface. The +shaking may be so violent that buildings may not be able to withstand +it. Such is the phenomenon of an earthquake. + +“When the earth is shaken by one of those occasional adjustments of the +crust which I have described, the wave that spreads like a pulsation +from the centre of agitation extends all over our globe and is +transmitted right through it. At the surface lying immediately over the +centre of disturbance there will be a violent shock. In the surrounding +country, and often over great distances, the earthquake may also be +powerful enough to produce destructive effects. The convulsion may also +be manifested over a far larger area of country in a way which makes the +shock to be felt, though the damage wrought may not be appreciable. +But beyond a limited distance from the centre of the agitation the +earthquake will produce no destructive effects upon buildings, and +will not even cause vibrations that would be appreciable to ordinary +observation.” + + +THE RADIUS OF DISTURBANCE. + + +“In each locality in which earthquakes are chronic it would seem as if +there must be a particularly weak spot in the earth some miles below +the surface. A shrinkage of the earth, in the course of the incessant +adjustment between the interior and the exterior, will take place by +occasional little jumps at this particular centre. The fact that there +is this weak spot at which small adjustments are possible may provide, +as it were, a safety-valve for other places in the same part of +the world. Instead of a general shrinking, the materials would be +sufficiently elastic and flexible to allow the shrinking for a very +large area to be done at this particular locality. In this way we may +explain the fact that immense tracts on the earth are practically free +from earthquakes of a serious character, while in the less fortunate +regions the earthquakes are more or less perennial. + +“Now, suppose an earthquake takes place in Japan, it originates a series +of vibrations through our globe. We must here distinguish between the +rocks--I might almost say the comparatively pliant rocks--which form +the earth’s crust, and those which form the intensely rigid core of the +interior of our globe. The vibrations which carry the tidings of the +earthquake spread through the rocks on the surface, from the centre of +the disturbance, in gradually enlarging circles. We may liken the spread +of these vibrations to the ripples in a pool of water which diverge from +the spot where a raindrop has fallen. The vibrations transmitted by +the rocks on the surface, or on the floor of the ocean, will carry the +message all over the earth. As these rocks are flexible, at all +events by comparison with the earth’s interior, the vibrations will be +correspondingly large, and will travel with vigor over land and under +sea. In due time they reach, say the Isle of Wight, where they set the +pencil of the seismometer at work. But there are different ways round +the earth from Japan to the Isle of Wight, the most direct route being +across Asia and Europe; the other route across the Pacific, America, and +the Atlantic. The vibrations will travel by both routes, and the former +is the shorter of the two.” + + +TRANSMISSIONS OF VIBRATIONS + + +Some brief repetition may not here be amiss as to the products of +volcanic action, of which so much has been said in the preceding +pages, especially as many of the terms are to some extent technical in +character. The most abundant of these substances is steam or water-gas, +which, as we have seen, issues in prodigious quantities during every +eruption. But with the steam a great number of other volatile materials +frequently make their appearance. Though we have named a number of these +at the beginning of this chapter, it will not be out of order to +repeat them here. The chief among these are the acid gases known as +hydrochloric acid, sulphurous acid, sulphuretted hydrogen, carbonic +acid, and boracic acid; and with these acid gases there issue hydrogen, +nitrogen ammonia, the volatile metals arsenic, antimony, and mercury, +and some other substances. These volatile substances react upon one +another, and many new compounds are thus formed. By the action of +sulphurous acid and sulphuretted hydrogen on each other, the sulphur +so common in volcanic districts is separated and deposited. The +hydrochloric acid acts very energetically on the rocks around the vents, +uniting with the iron in them to form the yellow ferric-chloride, which +often coats the rocks round the vent and is usually mistaken by casual +observers for sulphur. + +Some of the substances emitted by volcanic vents, such as hydrogen and +sulphuretted hydrogen, are inflammable, and when they issue at a high +temperature these gases burst into flame the moment that they come +into contact with the air. Hence, when volcanic fissures are watched at +night, faint lambent flames are frequently seen playing over them, and +sometimes these flames are brilliantly colored, through the presence +of small quantities of certain metallic oxides. Such volcanic flames, +however, are scarcely ever strongly luminous, and the red, glowing light +which is observed over volcanic mountains in eruption is due to quite +another cause. What is usually taken for flame during a volcanic +eruption is simply, as we have before stated, the glowing light of the +surface of a mass of red-hot lava reflected from the cloud of vapor and +dust in the air, much as the lights of a city are reflected from the +water vapor of the atmosphere during a night of fog. + +Besides the volatile substances which issue from volcanic vents, +mingling with the atmosphere or condensing upon their sides, there +are many solid materials ejected, and these may accumulate around the +orifice’s till they build up mountains of vast dimensions, like Etna, +Teneriffe, and Chimborazo. Some of these solid materials are evidently +fragments of the rock-masses, through which the volcanic fissure has +been rent; these fragments have been carried upwards by the force of +the steam-blast and scattered over the sides of the volcano. But the +principal portion of the solid materials ejected from volcanic orifices +consists of matter which has been extruded from sources far beneath the +surface, in highly-heated and fluid or semi-fluid condition. + +It is to these materials that the name of “lavas” is properly applied. +Lavas present a general resemblance to the slags and clinkers which +are formed in our furnaces and brick-kilns, and consist, like them, of +various stony substances which have been more or less perfectly fused. +When we come to study the chemical composition and the microscopical +structure of lavas, however, we shall find that there are many respects +in which they differ entirely from these artificial products, they +consisting chiefly of felspar, or of this substance in association with +augite or hornblende. In texture they may be stony, glassy, resin-like, +vesicular or cellular and light in weight, as in the case of pumice or +scoria. + + +FLOATING PUMICE + + +The steam and other gases rising through liquid lava are apt to produce +bubbles, yielding a surface froth or foam. This froth varies greatly +in character according to the nature of the material from which it is +formed. In the majority of cases the lavas consist of a mass of crystals +floating in a liquid magma, and the distension of such a mass by the +escape of steam from its midst gives rise to the formation of the rough +cindery-looking material to which the name of “scoria” is applied. But +when the lava contains no ready-formed crystals, but consists entirely +of a glassy substance in a more or less perfect state of fusion, +the liberation of steam gives rise to the formation of the beautiful +material known as “pumice.” Pumice consists of a mass of minute glass +bubbles; these bubbles do not usually, however, retain their globular +form, but are elongated in one direction through the movement of +the mass while it is still in a plastic state. The quantity of this +substance ejected is often enormous. We have seen to what a vast extent +it was thrown out from the crater of Krakatoa. During the year 1878, +masses of floating pumice were reported as existing in the vicinity of +the Solomon Isles, and covering the surface of the sea to such extent +that it took ships three days to force their way through them. Sometimes +this substance accumulates in such quantities along coasts that it is +difficult to determine the position of the shore within a mile or two, +as we may land and walk about on the great floating raft of pumice. +Recent deep-sea soundings, carried on in the Challenger and other +vessels, have shown that the bottom of the deepest portion of the ocean, +far away from the land, is covered with volcanic materials which have +been carried through the air or have floated on the surface of the +ocean. + +Fragments of scoria or pumice may be thrown hundreds or thousands of +feet into the atmosphere, those that fall into the crater and are flung +up again being gradually reduced in size by friction. Thus it is related +by Mr. Poulett Scrope, who watched the Vesuvian eruption of 1822, +which lasted for nearly a month, that during the earlier stages of the +outburst fragments of enormous size were thrown out of the crater, but +by constant re-ejection these were gradually reduced in size, till +at last only the most impalpable dust issued from the vent. This dust +filled the atmosphere, producing in the city of Naples “a darkness that +might be felt.” So excessively finely divided was it, that it penetrated +into all drawers, boxes, and the most closely fastened receptacles, +filling them completely. The fragmentary materials ejected from +volcanoes are often given the name of cinders or ashes. These, however, +are terms of convenience only, and do not properly describe the volcanic +material. + +Sometimes the passages of steam through a mass of molten glass produces +large quantities of a material resembling spun glass. Small particles of +this glass are carried into the air and leave behind them thin, glassy +filaments like a tail. At the volcano of Kilauea in Hawaii, this +substance, as previously stated, is abundantly produced, and is known +as ‘Pele’s Hair’--Pele being the name of the goddess of the mountain. +Birds’ nests are sometimes found composed of this beautiful material. +In recent years an artificial substance similar to this Pele’s hair +has been extensively manufactured by passing jets of steam through the +molten slag of iron-furnaces; it resembles cotton-wool, but is made up +of fine threads of glass, and is employed for the packing of boilers and +other purposes. + +The lava itself, as left in huge deposits upon the surface, assumes +various forms, some crystalline, others glassy. The latter is usually +found in the condition known as obsidian, ordinarily black in color, +and containing few or no crystals. It is brittle, and splits into +sharp-edged or pointed fragments, which were used by primitive peoples +for arrow-heads, knives and other cutting implements. The ancient +Mexicans used bits of it for shaving purposes, it having an edge of +razor-like sharpness. They also used it as the cutting part of their +weapons of war. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +The Active Volcanoes of the Earth. + + +It is not by any means an easy task to frame an estimate of the number +of volcanoes in the world. Volcanoes vary greatly in their dimensions, +from vast mountain masses, rising to a height of nearly 25,000 feet +above sea-level, to mere molehills. They likewise exhibit every possible +stage of development and decay: while some are in a state of chronic +active eruption, others are reduced to the condition of solfataras, or +vents emitting acid vapors, and others again have fallen into a more or +less complete state of ruin through the action of denuding forces. + + +NUMBER OF ACTIVE VOLCANOES + + +Even if we confine our attention to the larger volcanoes, which merit +the name of mountains, and such of these as we have reason to believe to +be in a still active condition, our difficulties will be diminished, but +not by any means removed. Volcanoes may sink into a dormant condition +that at times endures for hundreds or even thousands of years, and +then burst forth into a state of renewed activity; and it is quite +impossible, in many cases, to distinguish between the conditions of +dormancy and extinction. + +We shall, however, probably be within the limits of truth in stating +that the number of great habitual volcanic vents upon the globe which +we have reason to believe are still in active condition, is somewhere +between 300 and 350. Most of these are marked by more or less +considerable mountains, composed of the materials ejected from them. +But if we include mountains which exhibit the external conical form, +crater-like hollows, and other features of volcanoes, yet concerning the +activity of which we have no record or tradition, the number will fall +little, if anything, short of 1,000. + +The mountains composed of volcanic materials, but which have lost +through denudation the external form of volcanoes, are still more +numerous, and the smaller temporary openings which are usually +subordinate to the habitual vents that have been active during the +periods covered by history and tradition, must be numbered by thousands. +There are still feebler manifestations of the volcanic forces--such as +steam-jets, geysers, thermal and mineral waters, spouting saline and +muddy springs, and mud volcanoes--that may be reckoned by millions. +It is not improbable that these less powerful manifestations of the +volcanic forces to a great extent make up in number what they want in +individual energy; and the relief which they afford to the imprisoned +activities within the earth’s crust may be almost equal to that which +results from the occasional outbursts at the great habitual volcanic +vents. + +In taking a general survey of the volcanic phenomena of the globe, +no facts come out more strikingly than that of the very unequal +distribution, both of the great volcanoes, and of the minor exhibitions +of subterranean energy. + +Thus, on the whole of the continent of Europe, there is but one habitual +volcanic vent--that of Vesuvius--and this is situated upon the shores of +the Mediterranean. In the islands of that sea, however there are no +less than six volcanoes: namely, Stromboli, and Vulcano, in the Lipari +Islands; Etna, in Sicily; Graham’s Isle, a submarine volcano, off the +Sicilian coast; and Santorin and Nisyros, in the Aegean Sea. + +The African continent is at present known to contain about ten active +volcanoes--four on the west coast, and six on the east coast, while +about ten other active volcanoes occur on islands close to the African +coasts. On the continent of Asia, more than twenty active volcanoes +are known or believed to exist, but no less than twelve of these are +situated in the peninsula of Kamchatka. No volcanoes are known to exist +in the Australian continent. + +The American continent contains a greater number of volcanoes than +the continents of the Old World. There are twenty in North America, +twenty-five in Central America, and thirty-seven in South America. Thus, +taken altogether, there are about one hundred and seventeen volcanoes +situated on the great continental lands of the globe, while nearly twice +as many occur upon the islands scattered over the various oceans. + + +ASIATIC INLAND VOLCANOES + + +Upon examining further into the distribution of the continental +volcanoes, another very interesting fact presents itself. The volcanoes +are in almost every instance situated either close to the coasts of the +continent, or at no great distance from them. There are, indeed, only +two exceptions to this rule. In the great and almost wholly unexplored +table-land lying between Siberia and Tibet four volcanoes are said to +exist, and in the Chinese province of Manchuria several others. More +reliable information is, however, needed concerning these volcanoes. + +It is a remarkable circumstance that all the oceanic islands which +are not coral-reefs are composed of volcanic rocks; and many of +these oceanic islands, as well as others lying near the shores of the +continents, contain active volcanoes. + +Through the midst of the Atlantic Ocean runs a ridge, which, by the +soundings of the various exploring vessels sent out in recent years, has +been shown to divide the ocean longitudinally into two basins. Upon this +great ridge, and the spurs proceeding from it, rise numerous mountainous +masses, which constitute the well-known Atlantic islands and groups +of islands. All of these are of volcanic origin, and among them are +numerous active volcanoes. The Island of Jan Mayen contains an active +volcano, and Iceland contains thirteen, and not improbably more; the +Azores have six active volcanoes, the Canaries three; while about eight +volcanoes lie off the west coast of Africa. In the West Indies there are +six active volcanoes; and three submarine volcanoes have been recorded +within the limits of the Atlantic Ocean. Altogether, no less than forty +active volcanoes are situated upon the great submarine ridges which +traverse the Atlantic longitudinally. + +But along the same line the number of extinct volcanoes is far greater, +and there are not wanting proofs that the volcanoes which are still +active are approaching the condition of extinction. + + +VOLCANOES OF THE PACIFIC + + +If the great medial chain of the Atlantic presents us with an example of +a chain of volcanic mountains verging on extinction, we have in the +line of islands separating the Pacific and Indian Oceans an example of a +similar range of volcanic vents which are in a condition of the +greatest activity. In the peninsula of Kamchatka there are twelve active +volcanoes, in the Aleutian Islands thirty-one, and in the peninsula +of Alaska three. The chain of the Kuriles contains at least ten active +volcanoes; the Japanese Islands and the islands to the south of Japan +twenty-five. The great group of islands lying to the south-east of the +Asiatic continent is at the present time the grandest focus of volcanic +activity upon the globe. No less than fifty active volcanoes occur here. + +Farther south, the same chain is probably continued by the four active +volcanoes of New Guinea, one or more submarine volcanoes, and several +vents in New Britain, the Solomon Isles, and the New Hebrides, the three +active volcanoes of New Zealand, and possibly by Mount Erebus and Mount +Terror in the Antarctic region. Altogether, no less than 150 active +volcanoes exist in the chain of islands which stretch from Behring’s +Straits down to the Antarctic circle; and if we include the volcanoes +on Indian and Pacific Islands which appear to be situated on lines +branching from this particular band, we shall not be wrong in the +assertion that this great system of volcanic mountains includes at least +one half of the habitually active vents of the globe. In addition to +the active vents, there are here several hundred very perfect volcanic +cones, many of which appear to have recently become extinct, though some +of them may be merely dormant, biding their time. + +A third series of volcanoes starts from the neighborhood of Behring’s +Straits, and stretches along the whole western coast of the American +continent. This is much less continuous, but nevertheless very +important, and contains, with its branches, nearly a hundred active +volcanoes. On the north this great band is almost united with the one +we have already described by the chain of the Aleutian and Alaska +volcanoes. In British Columbia about the parallel of 60 degrees N. there +exist a number of volcanic mountains, one of which, Mount St. Elias, is +believed to be 18,000 feet in height. Farther south, in the territory of +the United States, a number of grand volcanic mountains exist, some of +which are probably still active, for geysers and other manifestations of +volcanic activity abound. From the southern extremity of the peninsula +of California an almost continuous chain of volcanoes stretches through +Mexico and Guatemala, and from this part of the volcanic band a branch +is given off which passes through the West Indies, and contains the +volcanoes which have so recently given evidence of their vital activity. + +In South America the line is continued by the active volcanoes of +Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile, but at many intermediate points in the chain +of the Andes extinct volcanoes occur, which to a great extent fill up +the gaps in the series. A small offshoot to the westward passes through +the Galapagos Islands. The great band of volcanoes which stretches +through the American continent is second only in importance, and in the +activity of its vents, to the band which divides the Pacific from the +Indian Ocean. + +The third volcanic band of the globe is that, already spoken of, +which traverses the Atlantic Ocean from north to south. This series of +volcanic mountains is much more broken and interrupted than the other +two, and a greater proportion of its vents are extinct. It attained its +condition of maximum activity during the distant period of the Miocene, +and now appears to be passing into a state of gradual extinction. + +Beginning in the north with the volcanic rocks of Greenland and Bear +Island, we pass southwards, by way of Jan Mayen, Iceland and the Faroe +Islands, to the Hebrides and the north of Ireland. Thence, by way of +the Azores, the Canaries and the Cape de Verde Islands, with some active +vents, we pass to the ruined volcanoes of St. Paul, Fernando de Noronha, +Ascension, St. Helena, Trinidad and Tristan da Cunha. From this great +Atlantic band two branches proceed to the eastward, one through Central +Europe, where all the vents are now extinct, and the other through the +Mediterranean to Asia Minor, the great majority of the volcanoes along +the latter line being now extinct, though a few are still active. The +volcanoes on the eastern coast of Africa may be regarded as situated on +another branch from this Atlantic volcanic band. The number of active +volcanoes on this Atlantic band and its branches, exclusive of those in +the West Indies, does not exceed fifty. + + +THIAN SHAN AND HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES + + +From what has been said, it will be seen that the volcanoes of the globe +not only usually assume a linear arrangement, but nearly the whole of +them can be shown to be thrown up along three well-marked bands and the +branches proceeding from them. The first and most important of these +bands is nearly 10,000 miles in length, and with its branches contains +more than 150 active volcanoes; the second is 8,000 miles in length, and +includes about 100 active volcanoes; the third is much more broken and +interrupted, extends to a length of nearly 1,000 miles, and contains +about 50 active vents. The volcanoes of the eastern coast of Africa, +with Mauritius, Bourbon, Rodriguez, and the vents along the line of the +Red Sea, may be regarded as forming a fourth and subordinate band. + +Thus we see that the surface of the globe is covered by a network of +volcanic bands, all of which traverse it in sinuous lines with a general +north-and-south direction, giving off branches which often run for +hundreds of miles, and sometimes appear to form a connection between the +great bands. + +To this rule of the linear arrangement of the volcanic vents of the +globe, and their accumulation along certain well-marked bands, there are +two very striking exceptions, which we must now proceed to notice. + +In the very centre of the continent formed by Europe and Asia, the +largest unbroken land-mass of the globe, there rises from the great +central plateau the remarkable volcanoes of the Thian Shan Range. The +existence of these volcanoes, of which only obscure traditional accounts +had reached Europe before the year 1858, appears to be completely +established by the researches of recent Russian and Swedish travelers. +Three volcanic vents appear to exist in this region, and other volcanic +phenomena have been stated to occur in the great plateau of Central +Asia, but the existence of the latter appears to rest on very doubtful +evidence. The only accounts which we have of the eruptions of these +Thian Shan volcanoes are contained in Chinese histories and treatises on +geography. + +The second exceptionally situated volcanic group is that of the Hawaiian +Islands. While the Thian Shan volcanoes rise in the centre of the +largest unbroken land-mass, and stand on the edge of the loftiest and +greatest plateau in the world, the volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands +rise in the northern centre of the largest ocean and from almost the +greatest depths in that ocean. All round the Hawaiian Islands the +sea has a depth of from 2,000 to 3,000 fathoms, and the island-group +culminates in several volcanic cones, which rise to the height of nearly +14,000 feet above the sea-level. The volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands +are unsurpassed in height and bulk by those of any other part of the +globe. + +With the exception of the two isolated groups of the Thian Shan and +the Hawaiian Islands, nearly all the active volcanoes of the globe are +situated near the limits which separate the great land-and-water-masses +of the globe--that is to say, they occur either on the parts of +continents not far removed from their coast-lines, or on islands in +the ocean not very far distant from the shores. The fact of the general +proximity of volcanoes to the sea is one which has frequently been +pointed out by geographers, and may now be regarded as being thoroughly +established. + + +VOLCANOES PARALLEL TO MOUNTAIN CHAINS + + +Many of the grandest mountain-chains have bands of volcanoes +lying parallel to them. This is strikingly exhibited by the great +mountain-masses which lie on the western side of the American continent. +The Rocky Mountains and the Andes consist of folded and crumpled masses +of altered strata which, by the action of denuding forces, have been +carved into series of ridges and summits. At many points, however, along +the sides of these great chains we find that fissures have been opened +and lines of volcanoes formed, from which enormous quantities of lava +have flowed and covered great tracts of country. + +This is especially marked in the Snake River plain of Idaho, in the +western United States. In this, and the adjoining regions of Oregon and +Washington, an enormous tract of country has been overflowed by lava in +a late geological period, the surface covered being estimated to have a +larger area than France and Great Britain combined. The Snake River cuts +through it in a series of picturesque gorges and rapids, enabling us to +estimate its thickness, which is considered to average 4000 feet. Looked +at from any point on its surface, one of these lava-plains appears as a +vast level surface, like that of a lake bottom. This uniformity has been +produced either by the lava rolling over a plain or lake bottom, or by +the complete effacement of an original, undulating contour of the ground +under hundreds or thousands of feet of lava in successive sheets. +The lava, rolling up to the base of the mountains, has followed +the sinuosities of their margin, as the waters of a lake follow its +promontories and bays. Similar conditions exist along the Sierra Nevada +range of California, and to some extent placer mining has gone on under +immense beds of lava, by a process of tunneling beneath the volcanic +rock. + +In some localities the volcanoes are of such height and dimensions as +to overlook and dwarf the mountain-ranges by the side of which they lie. +Some of the volcanoes lying parallel to the great American axis appear +to be quite extinct, while others are in full activity. In the Eastern +continent we find still more striking examples of parallelism between +great mountain-chains and the lands along which volcanic activity is +exhibited--volcanoes, active or extinct, following the line of the great +east and west chains which extend through southern Europe and Asia. +There are some other volcanic bands which exhibit a similar parallelism +with mountain chains; but, on the other hand, there are volcanoes +between which and the nearest mountain-axis no such connection can be +traced. + + +AREAS OF UPHEAVAL AND SUBSIDENCE + + +There is one other fact concerning the mode of distribution of volcanoes +upon the surface of the globe, to which we must allude. By a study +of the evidences presented by coral-reefs, raised beaches, submerged +forests, and other phenomena of a similar kind, it can be shown that +certain wide areas of the land and of the ocean-floor are at the present +time in a state of subsidence, while other equally large areas are +being upheaved. And the observations of the geologist prove that similar +upward and downward movements of portions of the earth’s crust have been +going on through all geological times. + +Now, as Mr. Darwin has so well shown in his work on “Coral Reefs,” if we +trace upon a map the areas of the earth’s surface which are undergoing +upheaval and subsidence respectively, we shall find that nearly all the +active volcanoes of the globe are situated upon rising areas and that +volcanic phenomena are conspicuously absent from those parts of the +earth’s crust which can be proved at the present day to be undergoing +depression. + +The remarkable linear arrangement of volcanic vents has a significance +that is well worthy of fuller consideration. There are facts known which +point to the cause of this state of affairs. It is not uncommon for +small cones of scoriae to be seen following lines on the flanks or at +the base of a great volcanic mountain. These are undoubtedly lines of +fissure, caused by the subterranean forces. In fact, such fissures have +been seen opening on the sides of Mount Etna, in whose bottom could +be seen the glowing lava. Along these fissures, in a few days, scoriae +cones appeared; on one occasion no less than thirty-six in number. + +It is believed by geologists that the linear systems of volcanoes are +ranged along similar lines of fissure in the earth’s crust--enormous +breaks, extending for thousands of miles, and the result of internal +energies acting through vast periods of time. Along these immense +fissures in the earth’s rock-crust there appear, in place of small +scoriae cones, great volcanoes, built up through the ages by a series of +powerful eruptions, and only ceasing to spout fire themselves when the +portion of the great crack upon which they lie is closed. The greatest +of these fissures is that along the vast sinuous band of volcanoes +extending from near the Arctic circle at Behring’s Straits to the +Antarctic circle at South Victoria Land, not far from half round the +earth. It doubtless marks the line of mighty forces which have been +active for millions of years. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +The Famous Vesuvius and the Destruction of Pompeii. + + +The famous volcano of southern Italy named Vesuvius, which is now so +constantly in eruption, was described by the ancients as a cone-shaped +mountain with a flat top, on which was a deep circular valley filled +with vines and grass, and surrounded by high precipices. A large +population lived on the sides of the mountain, which was covered with +beautiful woods, and there were fine flourishing cities at its foot. So +little was the terrible nature of the valley on the top understood, that +in A. D. 72, Spartacus, a rebellious Roman gladiator, encamped there +with some thousands of fighting men, and the Roman soldiers were let +down the precipices in order to surprise and capture them. + +There had been earthquakes around the mountain, and one of the cities +had been nearly destroyed; but no one was prepared for what occurred +seven years after the defeat of Spartacus. Suddenly, in the year 79 +A. D., a terrific rush of smoke, steam, and fire belched from the +mountain’s summit; one side of the valley in which Spartacus had +encamped was blown off, and its rocks, with vast quantities of ashes, +burning stones, and sand, were ejected far into the sky. They then +spread out like a vast pall, and fell far and wide. For eight days +and nights this went on, and the enormous quantity of steam sent up, +together with the deluge of rain that fell, produced torrents on the +mountain-side, which, carrying onward the fallen ashes, overwhelmed +everything in their way. Sulphurous vapors filled the air and violent +tremblings of the earth were constant. + +A city six miles off was speedily rendered uninhabitable, and was +destroyed by the falling stones; but two others--Herculaneum and +Pompeii--which already had suffered from the down-pour of ashes, were +gradually filled with a flood of water, sand, and ashes, which came down +the side of the volcano, and covering them entirely. + + +BURIED CITIES EXCAVATED. + + +The difference in ease of excavation is due to the following +circumstance. Herculaneum being several miles nearer the crater, +was buried in a far more consistent substance, seemingly composed of +volcanic ashes cemented by mud; Pompeii, on the contrary, was +buried only in ashes and loose stones. The casts of statues found in +Herculaneum show the plastic character of the material that fell there, +which time has hardened to rock-like consistency. + +These statues represented Hercules and Cleopatra, and the theatre proved +to be that of the long-lost city of Herculaneum. The site of Pompeii was +not discovered until forty years afterward, but work there proved far +easier than at Herculaneum, and more progress was made in bringing it +back to the light of day. + +The less solid covering of Pompeii has greatly facilitated the work of +excavation, and a great part of the city has been laid bare. Many of its +public buildings and private residences are now visible, and some whole +streets have been cleared, while a multitude of interesting relics have +been found. Among those are casts of many of the inhabitants, obtained +by pouring liquid plaster into the ash moulds that remained of them. +We see them to-day in the attitude and with the expression of agony and +horror with which death met them more than eighteen centuries ago. + +In succeeding eruptions much lava was poured out; and in A. D. 472, +ashes were cast over a great part of Europe, so that much fear was +caused at Constantinople. The buried cities were more and more covered +up, and it was not until about A. D. 1700 that, as above stated, the +city of Herculaneum was discovered, the peasants of the vicinity being +in the habit of extracting marble from its ruins. They had also, in the +course of years, found many statues. In consequence, an excavation was +ordered by Charles III, the earliest result being the discovery of the +theatre, with the statues above named. The work of excavation, +however, has not progressed far in this city, on account of its extreme +difficulty, though various excellent specimens of art-work have been +discovered, including the finest examples of mural painting extant from +antiquity. The library was also discovered, 1803 papyri being found. +Though these had been charred to cinder, and were very difficult to +unroll and decipher, over 300 of them have been read. + + +PLINY’S CELEBRATED DESCRIPTION + + +Pliny the Younger, to whom we are indebted for the only contemporary +account of the great eruption under consideration, was at the time of +its occurrence resident with his mother at Misenum, where the Roman +fleet lay, under the command of his uncle, the great author of the +“Historia Naturalis”. His account, contained in two letters to Tacitus +(lib. vi. 16, 20), is not so much a narrative of the eruption, as a +record of his uncle’s singular death, yet it is of great interest as +yielding the impressions of an observer. The translation which follows +is adopted from the very free version of Melmoth, except in one or two +places, where it differs much from the ordinary text. The letters are +given entire, though some parts are rather specimens of style than good +examples of description. + +“Your request that I should send an account of my uncle’s death, in +order to transmit a more exact relation of it to posterity, deserves my +acknowledgments; for if this accident shall be celebrated by your pen, +the glory of it, I am assured, will be rendered forever illustrious. +And, notwithstanding he perished by a misfortune which, as it involved +at the same time a most beautiful country in ruins, and destroyed so +many populous cities, seems to promise him an everlasting remembrance; +notwithstanding he has himself composed many and lasting works; yet I +am persuaded the mention of him in your immortal works will greatly +contribute to eternize his name. Happy I esteem those to be, whom +Providence has distinguished with the abilities either of doing such +actions as are worthy of being related, or of relating them in a manner +worthy of being read; but doubly happy are they who are blessed with +both these talents; in the number of which my uncle, as his own writings +and your history will prove, may justly be ranked. It is with extreme +willingness, therefore, that I execute your commands; and should, +indeed, have claimed the task if you had not enjoined it. + +“He was at that time with the fleet under his command at Misenum. On +the 24th of August, about one in the afternoon, my mother desired him to +observe a cloud which appeared of a very unusual size and shape. He had +just returned from taking the benefit of the sun, and, after bathing +himself in cold water, and taking a slight repast, had retired to his +study. He immediately arose, and went out upon an eminence, from whence +he might more distinctly view this very uncommon appearance. It was not +at that distance discernible from what mountain the cloud issued, but it +was found afterward to ascend from Mount Vesuvius. I cannot give a more +exact description of its figure than by comparing it to that of a pine +tree, for it shot up to a great height in the form of a trunk, which +extended itself at the top into a sort of branches; occasioned, I +imagine, either by a sudden gust of air that impelled it, the force +of which decreased as it advanced upwards, or the cloud itself being +pressed back again by its own weight, and expanding in this manner: it +appeared sometimes bright, and sometimes dark and spotted, as it was +more or less impregnated with earth and cinders. + +“This extraordinary phenomenon excited my uncle’s philosophical +curiosity to take a nearer view of it. He ordered a light vessel to be +got ready, and gave me the liberty, if I thought proper, to attend him. +I rather chose to continue my studies, for, as it happened, he had given +me an employment of that kind. As he was passing out of the house he +received dispatches: the marines at Retina, terrified at the imminent +peril (for the place lay beneath the mountain, and there was no retreat +but by ships), entreated his aid in this extremity. He accordingly +changed his first design, and what he began with a philosophical he +pursued with an heroical turn of mind.” + + +THE VOYAGE TO STABIAE + + +“He ordered the galleys to put to sea, and went himself on board with +an intention of assisting not only Retina but many other places, for the +population is thick on that beautiful coast. When hastening to the place +from whence others fled with the utmost terror, he steered a direct +course to the point of danger, and with so much calmness and presence of +mind, as to be able to make and dictate his observations upon the motion +and figure of that dreadful scene. He was now so nigh the mountain that +the cinders, which grew thicker and hotter the nearer he approached, +fell into the ships, together with pumice-stones, and black pieces of +burning rock; they were in danger of not only being left aground by the +sudden retreat of the sea, but also from the vast fragments which rolled +down from the mountain, and obstructed all the shore. + +“Here he stopped to consider whether he should return back again; to +which the pilot advised him. ‘Fortune,’ said he, ‘favors the brave; +carry me to Pomponianus.’ Pomponianus was then at Stabiae, separated by +a gulf, which the sea, after several insensible windings, forms upon +the shore. He (Pomponianus) had already sent his baggage on board; for +though he was not at that time in actual danger, yet being within view +of it, and indeed extremely near, if it should in the least increase, he +was determined to put to sea as soon as the wind should change. It was +favorable, however, for carrying my uncle to Pomponianus, whom he +found in the greatest consternation. He embraced him with tenderness, +encouraging and exhorting him to keep up his spirits; and the more to +dissipate his fears he ordered, with an air of unconcern, the baths +to be got ready; when, after having bathed, he sat down to supper with +great cheerfulness, or at least (what is equally heroic) with all the +appearance of it. + +“In the meantime, the eruption from Mount Vesuvius flamed out in several +places with much violence, which the darkness of the night contributed +to render still more visible and dreadful. But my uncle, in order to +soothe the apprehensions of his friend, assured him it was only the +burning of the villages, which the country people had abandoned to the +flames; after this he retired to rest, and it was most certain he was so +little discomposed as to fall into a deep sleep; for, being pretty fat, +and breathing hard, those who attended without actually heard him snore. +The court which led to his apartment being now almost filled with stones +and ashes, if he had continued there any longer it would have been +impossible for him to have made his way out; it was thought proper, +therefore, to awaken him. He got up and went to Pomponianus and the rest +of his company, who were not unconcerned enough to think of going to +bed. They consulted together whether it would be most prudent to trust +to the houses, which now shook from side to side with frequent and +violent concussions; or to fly to the open fields, where the calcined +stone and cinders, though light indeed, yet fell in large showers and +threatened destruction. In this distress they resolved for the fields as +the less dangerous situation of the two--a resolution which, while +the rest of the company were hurried into it by their fears, my uncle +embraced upon cool and deliberate consideration. + + +DEATH OF PLINY THE ELDER + + +“They went out, then, having pillows tied upon their heads with napkins; +and this was their whole defence against the storm of stones that fell +around them. It was now day everywhere else, but there a deeper darkness +prevailed than in the most obscure night; which, however, was in some +degree dissipated by torches and other lights of various kinds. They +thought proper to go down further upon the shore, to observe if they +might safely put out to sea; but they found that the waves still ran +extremely high and boisterous. There my uncle, having drunk a draught or +two of cold water, threw himself down upon a cloth which was spread for +him, when immediately the flames, and a strong smell of sulphur which +was the forerunner of them, dispersed the rest of the company, and +obliged him to rise. He raised himself up with the assistance of two of +his servants, and instantly fell down dead, suffocated, as I conjecture, +by some gross and noxious vapor, having always had weak lungs, and being +frequently subject to a difficulty of breathing. + +“As soon as it was light again, which was not till the third day after +this melancholy accident, his body was found entire, and without any +marks of violence upon it, exactly in the same posture as that in which +he fell, and looking more like a man asleep than dead. During all this +time my mother and I were at Misenum. But this has no connection with +your history, as your inquiry went no farther than concerning my uncle’s +death; with that, therefore, I will put an end to my letter. Suffer me +only to add, that I have faithfully related to you what I was either +an eye-witness of myself, or received immediately after the accident +happened, and before there was any time to vary the truth. You will +choose out of this narrative such circumstances as shall be most +suitable to your purpose; for there is a great difference between what +is proper for a letter and a history: between writing to a friend and +writing to the public. Farewell.” + +In this account, which was drawn up some years after the event, from +the recollections of a student eighteen years old, we recognize the +continual earthquakes; the agitated sea with its uplifted bed; the +flames and vapors of an ordinary eruption, probably attended by lava as +well as ashes. But it seems likely that the author’s memory, or rather +the information communicated to him regarding the closing scene of +Pliny’s life, was defective. Flames and sulphurous vapors could hardly +be actually present at Stabiae, ten miles from the centre of the +eruption. + +That lava flowed at all from Vesuvius on this occasion has been usually +denied; chiefly because at Pompeii and Herculaneum the causes of +destruction were different--ashes overwhelmed the former, mud concreted +over the latter. We observe, indeed, phenomena on the shore near Torre +del Greco which seem to require the belief that currents of lava had +been solidified there at some period before the construction of certain +walls and floors, and other works of Roman date. In the Oxford Museum, +among the specimens of lava to which the dates are assigned, is one +referred to A. D. 79, but there is no mode of proving it to have +belonged to the eruption of that date. + + +PLINY’S SECOND LETTER + + +A second letter from Pliny to Tacitus (Epist. 20) was required to +satisfy the curiosity of that historian; especially as regards the +events which happened under the eyes of his friend. Here it is according +to Melmoth: + +“The letter which, in compliance with your request, I wrote to you +concerning the death of my uncle, has raised, it seems, your curiosity +to know what terrors and danger attended me while I continued at +Misenum: for there, I think, the account in my former letter broke off. + +‘Though my shocked soul recoils, my tongue shall tell.’ + +“My uncle having left us, I pursued the studies which prevented my going +with him till it was time to bathe. After which I went to supper, and +from thence to bed, where my sleep was greatly broken and disturbed. +There had been, for many days before, some shocks of an earthquake, +which the less surprised us as they are extremely frequent in Campania; +but they were so particularly violent that night, that they not only +shook everything about us, but seemed, indeed, to threaten total +destruction. My mother flew to my chamber, where she found me rising +in order to awaken her. We went out into a small court belonging to the +house, which separated the sea from the buildings. As I was at that time +but eighteen years of age, I know not whether I should call my behavior, +in this dangerous juncture, courage or rashness; but I took up Livy, and +amused myself with turning over that author, and even making extracts +from him, as if all about me had been in full security. While we were +in this posture, a friend of my uncle’s, who was just come from Spain to +pay him a visit, joined us; and observing me sitting with my mother with +a book in my hand, greatly condemned her calmness at the same time that +he reproved me for my careless security. Nevertheless, I still went on +with my author. + +“Though it was now morning, the light was exceedingly faint and languid; +the buildings all around us tottered; and, though we stood upon open +ground, yet as the place was narrow and confined, there was no remaining +there without certain and great danger: we therefore resolved to quit +the town. The people followed us in the utmost consternation, and, as to +a mind distracted with terror every suggestion seems more prudent than +its own, pressed in great crowds about us in our way out. + +“Being got to a convenient distance from the houses, we stood still, in +the midst of a most dangerous and dreadful scene. The chariots which +we had ordered to be drawn out were so agitated backwards and forwards, +though upon the most level ground, that we could not keep them steady, +even by supporting them with large stones. The sea seemed to roll back +upon itself, and to be driven from its banks by the convulsive motion +of the earth; it is certain at least that the shore was considerably +enlarged, and many sea animals were left upon it. On the other side a +black and dreadful cloud, bursting with an igneous serpentine vapor, +darted out a long train of fire, resembling flashes of lightning, but +much larger. + + +FEAR VERSUS COMPOSURE + + +“Upon this the Spanish friend whom I have mentioned, addressed himself +to my mother and me with great warmth and earnestness; ‘If your brother +and your uncle,’ said he, ‘is safe, he certainly wishes you to be so +too; but if he has perished, it was his desire, no doubt, that you might +both survive him: why therefore do you delay your escape a moment?’ We +could never think of our own safety, we said, while we were uncertain +of his. Hereupon our friend left us, and withdrew with the utmost +precipitation. Soon afterward, the cloud seemed to descend, and cover +the whole ocean; as it certainly did the island of Capreae, and the +promontory of Misenum. My mother strongly conjured me to make my escape +at any rate, which, as I was young, I might easily do; as for herself, +she said, her age and corpulency rendered all attempts of that sort +impossible. However, she would willingly meet death, if she could have +the satisfaction of seeing that she was not the occasion of mine. But I +absolutely refused to leave her, and taking her by the hand, I led her +on; she complied with great reluctance, and not without many reproaches +to herself for retarding my flight. + +“The ashes now began to fall upon us, though in no great quantity. I +turned my head and observed behind us a thick smoke, which came rolling +after us like a torrent. I proposed, while we yet had any light, to turn +out of the high road lest she should be pressed to death in the dark by +the crowd that followed us. We had scarce stepped out of the path when +darkness overspread us, not like that of a cloudy night, or when there +is no moon, but of a room when it is all shut up and all the lights +are extinct. Nothing then was to be heard but the shrieks of women, +the screams of children and the cries of men; some calling for their +children, others for their parents, others for their husbands, and only +distinguishing each other by their voices; one lamenting his own fate, +another that of his family; some wishing to die from the very fear +of dying; some lifting their hands to the gods; but the greater part +imagining that the last and eternal night was come, which was to destroy +the gods and the world together. Among them were some who augmented the +real terrors by imaginary ones, and made the frighted multitude believe +that Misenum was actually in flames. + +“At length a glimmering light appeared, which we imagined to be rather +the forerunner of an approaching burst of flames, as in truth it was, +than the return of day. However, the fire fell at distance from us; then +again we were immersed in thick darkness, and a heavy shower of ashes +rained upon us, which we were obliged every now and then to shake off, +otherwise we should have been crushed and buried in the heap. + +“I might boast that, during all this scene of horror, not a sigh or +expression of fear escaped me, had not my support been founded in that +miserable, though strong, consolation that all mankind were involved in +the same calamity, and that I imagined I was perishing with the world +itself! At last this dreadful darkness was dissipated by degrees, like a +cloud of smoke; the real day returned, and soon the sun appeared, though +very faintly, and as when an eclipse is coming on. Every object that +presented itself to our eyes (which were extremely weakened) seemed +changed, being covered over with white ashes, as with a deep snow. We +returned to Misenum, where we refreshed ourselves as well as we could, +and passed an anxious night between hope and fear, for the earthquake +still continued, while several greatly excited people ran up and +down, heightening their own and their friends’ calamities by terrible +predictions. However, my mother and I, notwithstanding the danger we had +passed and that which still threatened us, had no thoughts of leaving +the place till we should receive some account from my uncle. + +“And now you will read this narrative without any view of inserting it +in your history, of which it is by no means worthy; and, indeed, you +must impute it to your own request if it shall not even deserve the +trouble of a letter. Farewell!” + + +DION CASSIUS ON THE ERUPTION + + +The story told by Pliny is the only one upon which we can rely. Dion +Cassius, the historian, who wrote more than a century later, does not +hesitate to use his imagination, telling us that Pompeii was buried +under showers of ashes “while all the people were sitting in the +theatre.” This statement has been effectively made use of by Bulwer, in +his “Last Days of Pompeii.” In this he pictures for us a gladiatorial +combat in the arena, with thousands of deeply interested spectators +occupying the surrounding seats. The novelist works his story up to a +thrilling climax in which the volcano plays a leading part. + +This is all very well as a vivid piece of fiction, but it does not +accord with fact, since Dion Cassius was undoubtedly incorrect in his +statement. We now know from the evidence furnished by the excavations +that none of the people were destroyed in the theatres, and, indeed, +that there were very few who did not escape from both cities. It is +very likely that many of them returned and dug down for the most valued +treasures in their buried habitations. Dion Cassius may have obtained +the material for his accounts from the traditions of the descendants of +survivors, and if so he shows how terrible must have been the impression +made upon their minds. He assures us that during the eruption a +multitude of men of superhuman nature appeared, sometimes on the +mountain and sometimes in the environs, that stones and smoke were +thrown out, the sun was hidden, and then the giants seemed to rise +again, while the sounds of trumpets were heard. + + +LAKE AVERNUS + + +Not far from Vesuvius lay the famous Lake Avernus, whose name was long +a popular synonym for the infernal regions. The lake is harmless to-day, +but its reputation indicates that it was not always so. There is every +reason to believe that it hides the outlet of an extinct volcano, and +that long after the volcano ceased to be active it emitted gases as +fatal to animal life as those suffocating vapors which annihilated all +the cattle on the Island of Lancerote, in the Canaries, in the year +1730. Its name signifies “birdless,” indicating that its ascending +vapors were fatal to all birds that attempted to fly above its surface. + +In the superstition of the Middle Ages Vesuvius assumed the character +which had before been given to Avernus, and was regarded as the mouth of +hell. Cardinal Damiano, in a letter to Pope Nicholas II., written about +the year 1060 tells the story of how a priest, who had left his mother +ill at Beneventum, went on his homeward way to Naples past the crater of +Vesuvius, and heard issuing therefrom the voice of his mother in great +agony. He afterward found that her death coincided exactly with the time +at which he had heard her voice. + +A trip to the summit of Vesuvius is one of the principal attractions +for strangers who are visiting Naples. There is a fascination about that +awful slayer of cities which few can resist, and no less attractive +is the city of Pompeii, now largely laid bare after being buried for +eighteen centuries. We are indebted to Henry Haynie for the following +interesting description: “Once seen, it will never be forgotten. It is +full of suggestions. It kindles emotions that are worth the kindling, +and brings on dreams that are worth the dreaming. Of the three places +overwhelmed, Herculaneum, Pompeii and Stabiae, the last scarcely repays +excavation in one sense, and the first in another; but to watch the +diggers at Pompeii is fascinating, even when there is no reasonable +expectation of a find. Herculaneum was buried with lava, or rather with +tufa, and it is so very hard that the expense of uncovering of only a +small part of that city has been very great. + + +HOW POMPEII IMPRESSES ITS VISITORS + + +“Pompeii was smothered in ashes, however, and most of it is uncovered +now. But while there is much that is fascinating, and all of it is +instructive, there is nothing grand or awe-inspiring in the ruins of +Pompeii. No visitor stands breathless as in the great hall of Karnak or +in the once dreadful Coliseum at Rome, or dreams with sensuous delight +as before the Jasmine Court at Agra. + +“The weirdness of the scene possesses us as a haunted chamber might. We +have before us the narrow lanes, paved with tufa, in which Roman wagon +wheels have worn deep ruts. We cross streets on stepping-stones which +sandaled feet ages ago polished. We see the wine shops with empty jars, +counters stained with liquor, stone mills where the wheat was ground, +and the very ovens in which bread was baked more than eighteen centuries +ago. ‘Welcome’ is offered us at one silent, broken doorway; at another +we are warned to ‘Beware of the dog!’ The painted figures,--some of +them so artistic and rich in colors that pictures of them are +disbelieved,--the mosaic pavements, the empty fountains, the altars and +household gods, the marble pillars and the small gardens are there just +as the owners left them. Some of the walls are scribbled over by the +small boys of Pompeii in strange characters which mock modern erudition. +In places we read the advertisements of gladiatorial shows, never to +come off, the names of candidates for legislative office who were never +to sit. There is nothing like this elsewhere. + +“The value of Pompeii to those classic students who would understand, +not the speech only, but the life and the every-day habits, of the +ancient world, is too high for reckoning. Its inestimable evidence may +be seen in the fact that any high-school boy can draw the plan of a +Roman house, while ripest scholars hesitate on the very threshold of +a Greek dwelling. This is because no Hellenic Pompeii has yet been +discovered, but thanks to the silent city close to the beautiful Bay of +Naples, the Latin house is known from ostium to porticus, from the front +door to the back garden wall. + + +STREETS AND HOUSES OF POMPEII + + +“The streets of Pompeii must have had a charm unapproached by those +of any city now in existence. The stores, indeed, were wretched little +dens. Two or three of them commonly occupied the front of a house on +either side of the entrance, the ostium; but when the door lay open, as +was usually the case, a passerby could look into the atrium, prettily +decorated and hung with rich stuffs. The sunshine entered through an +aperture in the roof, and shone on the waters of the impluvium, the +mosaic floor, the altar of the household gods and the flowers around the +fountain. + +“As the life of the Pompeiians was all outdoors, their pretty homes +stood open always. There was indeed a curtain betwixt the atrium and the +peristyle, but it was drawn only when the master gave a banquet. Thus a +wayfarer in the street could see, beyond the hall described and its +busy servants, the white columns of the peristyle, with creepers trained +about them, flowers all around, and jets of water playing through pipes +which are still in place. In many cases the garden itself could be +observed between the pillars of the further gallery, and rich paintings +on the wall beyond that. + +“But how far removed those little palaces of Pompeii were from our +notion of well-being is scarcely to be understood by one who has not +seen them. It is a question strange in all points of view where the +family slept in the houses, nearly all of which had no second story. In +the most graceful villas the three to five sleeping chambers round the +atrium and four round the peristyle were rather ornamental cupboards +than aught else. One did not differ from another, and if these were +devoted to the household the slaves, male and female, must have slept +on the floor outside. The master, his family and his guest used these +small, dark rooms, which were apparently without such common luxuries +as we expect in the humblest home. All their furniture could hardly have +been more than a bed and a footstool; but it should be remembered +that the public bath was a daily amusement. The kitchen of each villa +certainly was not furnished with such ingenuity, expense or thought as +the stories of Roman gormandising would have led us to expect. In the +house of the Aedile--so called from the fact that ‘Pansam Aed.’ is +inscribed in red characters by the doorway--the cook seems to have been +employed in frying eggs at the moment when increasing danger put him to +flight. His range, four partitions of brick, was very small; a knife, +a strainer, a pan lay by the fire just as they fell from the slave’s +hand.” + + +VALUE OF THE DISCOVERY OF POMPEII + + +This description strongly presents to us the principal value of the +discovery of Pompeii. Interesting as are the numerous works of art found +in its habitations, and important as is their bearing upon some branches +of the art of the ancient world, this cannot compare in interest with +the flood of light which is here thrown on ancient life in all its +details, enabling us to picture to ourselves the manners and habits of +life of a cultivated and flourishing population at the beginning of the +Christian era, to an extent which no amount of study of ancient history +could yield. + +Looking upon the work of the volcano as essentially destructive, as +we naturally do, we have here a valuable example of its power as a +preservative agent; and it is certainly singular that it is to a +volcano we owe much of what we know concerning the cities, dwellings and +domestic life of the people of the Roman Empire. + +It would be very fortunate for students of antiquity if similar +disasters had happened to cities in other ancient civilized lands, +however unfortunate it might have been to their inhabitants. But +doubtless we are better off without knowledge gained from ruins thus +produced. + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Eruptions of Vesuvius, Etna and Stromboli. + + +Mount Vesuvius is of especial interest as being the only active volcano +on the continent of Europe--all others of that region being on the +islands of the Mediterranean--and for the famous ancient eruption +described in the last chapter. Before this it had borne the reputation +of being extinct, but since then it has frequently shown that its fires +have not burned out, and has on several occasions given a vigorous +display of its powers. + +During the fifteen hundred years succeeding the destructive event +described eruptions were of occasional occurrence, though of no great +magnitude. But throughout the long intervals when Vesuvius was at rest +it was noted that Etna and Ischia were more or less disturbed. + + +THE BIRTH OF MONTE NUOVO + + +In 1538 a startling evidence was given that there was no decline of +energy in the volcanic system of Southern Italy. This was the sudden +birth of the mountain still known as Monte Nuovo, or New Mountain, +which was thrown up in the Campania near Avernus, on the spot formerly +occupied by the Lucrine Lake. + +For about two years prior to this event the district had been disturbed +by earthquakes, which on September 27 and 28, 1538, became almost +continuous. The low shore was slightly elevated, so that the sea +retreated, leaving bare a strip about two hundred feet in width. The +surface cracked, steam escaped, and at last, early on the morning of the +29th, a greater rent was made, from which were vomited furiously “smoke, +fire, stones and mud composed of ashes, making at the time of its +opening a noise like the loudest thunder.” + +The ejected material in less than twelve hours built the hill which has +lasted substantially in the same form to our day. It is a noteworthy +fact that since the formation of Monte Nuovo there has been no volcanic +disturbance in any part of the Neapolitan district except in Vesuvius, +which for five centuries previous had remained largely at rest. + + +LAVA FROM VESUVIUS + + +The first recognised appearance of lava in the eruptions of Vesuvius was +in the violent eruption of 1036. This was succeeded at intervals by five +other outbreaks, none of them of great energy. After 1500 the crater +became completely quiet, the whole mountain in time being grown over +with luxuriant vegetation, while by the next century the interior of the +crater became green with shrubbery, indicating that no injurious gases +were escaping. + +This was sleep, not death. In 1631 the awakening came in an eruption of +terrible violence. Almost in a moment the green mantle of woodland and +shrubbery was torn away and death and destruction left where peace and +safety had seemed assured. + +Seven streams of lava poured from the crater and swept rapidly down the +mountain side, leaving ruin along their paths. Resina, Granasello and +Torre del Greco, three villages that had grown up during the period +of quiescence, were more or less overwhelmed by the molten lava. Great +torrents of hot water also poured out, adding to the work of desolation. +It was estimated that eighteen thousand of the inhabitants were killed. + +What made the horror all the greater was a frightful error of judgment, +similar to that of the Governor of Martinique at St. Pierre. The +Governor of Torre del Greco had refused to be warned in time, and +prevented the people from making their escape until it was too late. +Not until the lava had actually reached the walls was the order for +departure given. Before the order could be acted upon the molten streams +burst through the walls into the crowded streets, and overwhelmed the +vast majority of the inhabitants. + +In this violent paroxysm the whole top of the mountain is said to have +been swept away, the new crater which took the place of the old one +being greatly lowered. From that date Vesuvius has never been at rest +for any long interval, and eruptions of some degree of violence +have been rarely more than a few years apart. Of its various later +manifestations of energy we select for description that of 1767, of +which an interesting account by a careful observer is extant. + + +GREAT ERUPTION OF 1767 + + +From the 10th of December, 1766, to March, 1767, Vesuvius was quiet; +then it began to throw up stones from time to time. In April the throws +were more frequent, and at night the red glare grew stronger on the +cloudy columns which hung over the crater. These repeated throws of +cinders, ashes and pumice-stones so much increased the small cone of +eruption which had been left in the centre of the flat crateral space +that its top became visible at a distance. + +On the 7th of August there issued a small stream of lava from a breach +in the side of a small cone; the lava gradually filled the space between +the cone and the crateral edge; on the 12th of September it overflowed +the crater, and ran down the mountain. Stones were ejected which took +ten seconds in their fall, from which it may be computed that the height +which the stones reached was 1,600 feet. Padre Torre, a great observer +of Vesuvius, says they went up above a thousand feet. The lava ceased +on the 18th of October, but at 8 A. M. on the 19th it rushed out at a +different place, after volleys of stones had been thrown to an immense +height, and the huge traditional pine-tree of smoke reappeared. On this +occasion that vast phantom extended its menacing shadow over Capri, at a +distance of twenty-eight miles from Vesuvius. + +The lava at first came out of a mouth about one hundred yards below the +crater, on the side toward Monte Somma. While occupied in viewing this +current, the observer heard a violent noise within the mountain; saw it +split open at the distance of a quarter of a mile, and saw from the new +mouth a mountain of liquid fire shoot up many feet, and then, like a +torrent, roll on toward him. The earth shook; stones fell thick around +him; dense clouds of ashes darkened the air; loud thunders came from the +mountain top, and he took to precipitate flight. The Padre’s account is +too lively and instructive for his own words to be omitted. + + +PADRE TORRE’S NARRATIVE + + +“I was making my observations upon the lava, which had already, from the +spot where it first broke out, reached the valley, when, on a sudden, +about noon, I heard a violent noise within the mountain, and at a spot +about a quarter of a mile off the place where I stood the mountain +split; and with much noise, from this new mouth, a fountain of liquid +fire shot up many feet high, and then like a torrent rolled on directly +towards us. The earth shook at the same time that a volley of stones +fell thick upon us; in an instant clouds of black smoke and ashes caused +almost a total darkness; the explosions from the top of the mountain +were much louder than any thunder I ever heard, and the smell of the +sulphur was very offensive. My guide, alarmed, took to his heels; and +I must confess that I was not at my ease. I followed close, and we ran +near three miles without stopping; as the earth continued to shake under +our feet, I was apprehensive of the opening of a fresh mouth which might +have cut off our retreat. + +“I also feared that the violent explosions would detach some of the +rocks off the mountain of Somma, under which we were obliged to pass; +besides, the pumice-stones, falling upon us like hail, were of such a +size as to cause a disagreeable sensation in the part upon which they +fell. After having taken breath, as the earth trembled greatly I thought +it most prudent to leave the mountain and return to my villa, where I +found my family in great alarm at the continual and violent explosions +of the volcano, which shook our house to its very foundation, the doors +and windows swinging upon their hinges. + +“About two of the clock in the afternoon (19th) another lava stream +forced its way out of the same place from whence came the lava of last +year, so that the conflagration was soon as great on this side of the +mountain as on the other which I had just left. I observed on my way to +Naples, which was in less than two hours after I had left the mountain, +that the lava had actually covered three miles of the very road through +which we had retreated. This river of lava in the Atrio del Cavallo was +sixty or seventy feet deep, and in some places nearly two miles broad. +Besides the explosions, which were frequent, there was a continued +subterranean and violent rumbling noise, which lasted five hours in +the night,--supposed to arise from contact of the lava with rain-water +lodged in cavities within. The whole neighborhood was shaken violently; +Portici and Naples were in the extremity of alarm; the churches were +filled; the streets were thronged with processions of saints, and +various ceremonies were performed to quell the fury of the mountain. + +“In the night of the 20th, the occasion being critical, the prisoners in +the public jail attempted to escape, and the mob set fire to the gates +of the residence of the Cardinal Archbishop because he refused to bring +out the relics of St. Januarius. The 21st was a quieter day, but the +whole violence of the eruption returned on the 22d, at 10 A. M., with +the same thundering noise, but more violent and alarming. Ashes fell in +abundance in the streets of Naples, covering the housetops and balconies +an inch deep. Ships at sea, twenty leagues from Naples, were covered +with them. + +“In the midst of these horrors, the mob, growing tumultuous and +impatient, obliged the Cardinal to bring out the head of St. Januarius, +at the extremity of Naples, toward Vesuvius; and it is well attested +here that the eruption ceased the moment the saint came in sight of +the mountain. It is true the noise ceased about that time after having +lasted five hours, as it had done the preceding days. + +“On the 23d the lava still ran, but on the 24th it ceased; but smoke +continued. On the 25th there rose a vast column of black smoke, giving +out much forked lightning with thunder, in a sky quite clear except for +the smoke of the volcano. On the 26th smoke continued, but on the 27th +the eruption came to an end.” + +This eruption was also described by Sir William Hamilton, who continued +to keep a close watch on the movements of the volcano for many years. +The next outbreak of especial violence took place in 1779, when what +seemed to the eye a column of fire ascended two miles high, while cinder +fragments fell far and wide, destroying the hopes of harvest throughout +a wide district. They fell in abundance thirty miles distant, and the +dust of the explosion was carried a hundred miles away. + +In 1793 the crater became active again, and in 1794 after a period of +short tranquillity or comparative inaction, the mountain again became +agitated, and one of the most formidable eruptions known in the history +of Vesuvius began. It was in some respects unlike many others, being +somewhat peculiar as to the place of its outburst, the temperature of +the lava, and the course of the current. Breislak, an Italian geologist, +observed the characteristic phenomena with the eye of science, and his +account supplies many interesting facts. + + +BREISLAK ON THE ERUPTION OF 1794 + + +Breislak remarked certain changes in the character of the earth’s +motions during this six hours’ eruption, which led him to some +particular conjecture of the cause. At the beginning the trembling was +continual, and accompanied by a hollow noise, similar to that occasioned +by a river falling into a subterranean cavern. The lava, at the time +of its being disgorged, from the impetuous and uninterrupted manner in +which it was ejected, causing it to strike violently against the walls +of the vent, occasioned a continual oscillation of the mountain. Toward +the middle of the night this vibratory motion ceased, and was succeeded +by distant shocks. The fluid mass, diminished in quantity, now pressed +less violently against the walls of the aperture, and no longer issued +in a continual and gushing stream, but only at intervals, when the +interior fermentation elevated the boiling matter above the mouth. About +4 A. M. the shocks began to be less numerous, and the intervals between +them rendered their force and duration more perceptible. + +During this tremendous eruption at the base of the Vesuvian cone, and +the fearful earthquakes which accompanied it, the summit was tranquil. +The sky was serene, the stars were brilliant, and only over Vesuvius +hung a thick, dark smoke-cloud, lighted up into an auroral arch by the +glare of a stream of fire more than two miles long, and more than a +quarter of a mile broad. The sea was calm, and reflected the red glare; +while from the source of the lava came continual jets of uprushing +incandescent stones. Nearer to view, Torre del Greco in flames, and +clouds of black smoke, with falling houses, presented a dark and +tragical foreground, heightened by the subterranean thunder of the +mountain, and the groans and lamentations of fifteen thousand ruined +men, women and children. + +The heavy clouds of ashes which were thrown out on this occasion +gathered in the early morning into a mighty shadow over Naples and the +neighborhood; the sun rose pale and obscure, and a long, dim twilight +reigned afterward. + +Such were the phenomena on the western side of Vesuvius. They were +matched by others on the eastern aspect, not visible at Naples, except +by reflection of their light in the atmosphere. The lava on this side +flowed eastward, along a route often traversed by lava, by the broken +crest of the Cognolo and the valley of Sorienta. The extreme length to +which this current reached was not less than an Italian mile. The cubic +content was estimated to be half that already assigned to the western +currents. Taken together they amounted to 20,744,445 cubic metres, or +2,804,440 cubic fathoms; the constitution of the lava being the same in +each, both springing from one deep-seated reservoir of fluid rock. + +The eruption of lava ceased on the 16th, and then followed heavy +discharges of ashes, violent shocks of earthquakes, thunder and +lightning in the columns of vapors and ashes, and finally heavy rains, +lasting till the 3d of July. The barometer during all the eruption was +steady. + +Breislak made an approximate calculation of the quantity of ashes which +fell on Vesuvius during this great eruption, and states the result as +equal to what would cover a circular area 6 kilometres (about 3 1/2 +English miles) in radius, and 39 centimetres (about 15 inches) in depth. + + +STRANGE EFFECTS + + +Among the notable things which attended this eruption, it is recorded +that in Torre del Greco metallic and other substances exposed to +the current were variously affected. Silver was melted, glass became +porcelain, iron swelled to four times its volume and lost its texture. +Brass was decomposed, and its constituent copper crystallized in +cubic and octahedral forms aggregated in beautiful branches. Zinc was +sometimes turned to blende. During the eruption, the lip of the crater +toward Bosco Tre Case on the south east, fell in, or was thrown off, and +the height of that part was reduced 426 feet. + +On the 17th, the sea was found in a boiling state 100 yards off the new +promontory made by the lava of Torre del Greco, and no boat could remain +near it on account of the melting of the pitch in her bottom. For nearly +a month after the eruption vast quantities of fine white ashes, mixed +with volumes of steam, were thrown out from the crater; the clouds +thus generated were condensed into heavy rain, and large tracts of the +Vesuvian slopes were deluged with volcanic mud. It filled ravines, such +as Fosso Grande, and concreted and hardened there into pumiceous tufa--a +very instructive phenomenon. + +Immense injury was done to the rich territory of Somma, Ottajano and +Bosco by heavy rains, which swept along cinders, broke up the road and +bridges, and overturned trees and houses for the space of fifteen days. + +There were few years during the nineteenth century in which Vesuvius did +not show symptoms of its internal fires, and at intervals it manifested +much activity, though not equaling the terrible eruptions of its past +history. The severest eruptions in that century were those of 1871 and +1876. In the first a sudden emission of lava killed twenty spectators at +the mouth of the crater, and only spent its fury after San Sebastian and +Massa had been well nigh annihilated. Fragments of rock were thrown up +to the height of 4,000 feet, and the explosions were so violent that +the whole countryside fled panic stricken to Naples. The activity of +the volcano, accompanied by distinct shocks of earthquake, lasted for a +week. + +In 1876, for three weeks together, lava streamed down the side of +Vesuvius, sweeping away the village of Cercolo and running nearly to the +sea at Ponte Maddaloni. There were then formed ten small craters within +the greater one. But these were united by a later eruption in 1888, and +pressure from beneath formed a vast cone where they had been. + + +HARDIHOOD OF THE PEOPLE + + +It may seem strange that so dangerous a neighborhood should be +inhabited. But so it is. Though Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae lie +buried beneath the mud and ashes belched out of the mouth of Vesuvius, +the villages of Portici and Revina, Torre del Greco and Torre del +Annunziata have taken their place, and a large population, cheerful +and prosperous, flourishes around the disturbed mountain and over the +district of which it is the somewhat untrustworthy safety-valve. + +It is thus that man, in his eagerness to cultivate all available parts +of the earth, dares the most frightful perils and ventures into the most +threatening situations, seeking to snatch the means of life from +the very jaws of death. The danger is soon forgotten, the need of +cultivation of the ground is ever pressing, and no threats of peril seem +capable of restraining the activity of man for many years. Though the +proposition of abandoning the Island of Martinique has been seriously +considered, the chances are that, before many years have passed, a +cheerful and busy population will be at work again on the flanks of Mont +Pelee. + + +MOUNT ETNA + + +On the eastern coast of the Island of Sicily, and not far from the +sea, rises in solitary grandeur Mount Etna, the largest and highest of +European volcanoes. Its height above the level of the sea is a little +over 10,870 feet, considerably above the limit of perpetual snow. +It accordingly presents the striking phenomenon of volcanic vapors +ascending from a snow-clad summit. The base of the mountain is +eighty-seven miles in circumference, and nearly circular; but there is +a wide additional extent all around overspread by its lava. The lower +portions of the mountain are exceedingly fertile, and richly adorned +with corn-fields, vineyards, olive-groves and orchards. Above this +region are extensive forests, chiefly of oak, chestnut, and pine, with +here and there clumps of cork-trees and beech. In this forest region are +grassy glades, which afford rich pasture to numerous flocks. Above the +forest lies a volcanic desert, covered with black lava and slag. Out of +this region, which is comparatively flat rises the principal cone, about +1,100 feet in height, having on its summit the crater, whence sulphurous +vapors are continually evolved. + +The great height of Etna has exerted a remarkable influence on its +general conformation: for the volcanic forces have rarely been of +sufficient energy to throw the lava quite up to the crater at the +summit. The consequence has been, that numerous subsidiary craters and +cones have been formed all around the flanks of the mountain, so that it +has become rather a cluster of volcanoes than a single volcanic cone. + +The eruptions of this mountain have been numerous, records of them +extending back to several centuries before the Christian era, while +unrecorded ones doubtless took place much further back. After the +beginning of the Christian era, and more especially after the breaking +forth of Vesuvius in 79 A. D., Etna enjoyed longer intervals of repose. +Its eruptions since that time have nevertheless been numerous--more +especially during the intervals when Vesuvius was inactive--there being +a sort of alternation between the periods of great activity of the two +mountains; although there are not a few instances of their having been +both in action at the same time. + + +SIMILARITY IN ETNA’S ERUPTIONS + + +There is a great similarity in the character of the eruptions of Etna. +Earthquakes presage the outburst, loud explosions follow, rifts and +bocche del fuoco open in the sides of the mountain; smoke, sand, ashes +and scoriae are discharged, the action localizes itself in one or more +craters, cinders are thrown up and accumulate around the crater and +cone, ultimately lava rises and frequently breaks down one side of the +cone where the resistance is least; then the eruption is at an end. + +Smyth says: “The symptoms which precede an eruption are generally +irregular clouds of smoke, ferilli or volcanic lightnings, hollow +intonations and local earthquakes that often alarm the surrounding +country as far as Messina, and have given the whole province the name +of Val Demone, as being the abode of infernal spirits. These agitations +increase until the vast cauldron becomes surcharged with the fused +minerals, when, if the convulsion is not sufficiently powerful to force +them from the great crater (which, from its great altitude and the +weight of the candent matter, requires an uncommon effort), they explode +through that part of the side which offers the least resistance with a +grand and terrific effect, throwing red-hot stones and flakes of fire to +an incredible height, and spreading ignited cinders and ashes in every +direction.” + +After the eruption of ashes, lava frequently follows, sometimes rising +to the top of the cone of cinders, at others disrupting it on the least +resisting side. When the lava has reached the base of the cone it begins +to flow down the mountain, and, being then in a very fluid state, it +moves with great velocity. As it cools, the sides and surface begin to +harden, its velocity decreases, and after several days it moves only +a few yards an hour. The internal portions, however, part slowly with +their heat, and months after the eruption clouds of steam arise from the +black and externally cold lava-beds after rain; which, having penetrated +through the cracks, has found its way to the heated mass within. + + +THE ERUPTION OF 1669 + + +The most memorable of the eruptions of Etna was that which elevated the +double cone of Monte Rossi and destroyed a large part of the city +of Catania. It happened in the year 1669, and was preceded by an +earthquake, which overthrew the town of Nicolosi, situated ten miles +inland from Catania, and about twenty miles from the top of Etna. The +eruption began with the sudden opening of an enormous fissure, extending +from a little way above Nicolosi to within about a mile of the top of +the principal cone, its length being twelve miles, its average breadth +six feet, its depth unknown. + +We have a more detailed account of this eruption than of any preceding +one, as it was observed by men of science from various countries. The +account from which we select is that of Alfonso Borelli, Professor of +Mathematics in Catania. + +From the fissure above mentioned, he says, there came a bright light. +Six mouths opened in a line with it and emitted vast columns of smoke, +accompanied by loud bellowings which could be heard forty miles off. +Towards the close of the day a crater opened about a mile below the +others, which ejected red-hot stones to a considerable distance, and +afterward sand and ashes which covered the country for a distance of +sixty miles. The new crater soon vomited forth a torrent of lava which +presented a front of two miles; it encircled Monpilieri, and afterward +flowed towards Belpasso, a town of 8,000 inhabitants, which was speedily +destroyed. Seven mouths of fire opened around the new crater, and +in three days united with it, forming one large crater 800 feet in +diameter. All this time the torrent of lava continued to descend, it +destroying the town of Mascalucia on the 23d of March. On the same day +the crater cast up great quantities of sand, ashes and scoriae, and +formed above itself the great double-coned hill now called Monte Rossi, +from the red color of the ashes of which it is mainly composed. + + +VILLAGES AND CITIES BURIED + + +On the 25th very violent earthquakes occurred, and the cone above the +great central crater was shaken down into the crater for the fifth time +since the first century A. D. The original current of lava divided +into three streams, one of which destroyed San Pietro, the second +Camporotondo, and the third the lands about Mascalucia and afterward the +village of Misterbianco. Fourteen villages were altogether destroyed, +and the lava flowed toward Catania. At Albanelli, two miles from the +city, it undermined a hill covered with cornfields and carried it +forward a considerable distance. A vineyard was also seen to be floating +on its fiery surface. When the lava reached the walls of Catania, it +accumulated without progression until it rose to the top of the wall, 60 +feet in height, and it then fell over in a fiery cascade and overwhelmed +a part of the city. Another portion of the same stream threw down 120 +feet of the wall and flowed into the city. + +On the 23d of April the lava reached the sea, which it entered as a +stream 600 yards broad and 40 feet deep. The stream had moved at the +rate of thirteen miles in twenty days, but as it cooled it moved +less quickly, and during the last twenty-three days of its course, it +advanced only two miles. On reaching the sea the water, of course, +began to boil violently, and clouds of steam arose, carrying with them +particles of scoriae. Towards the end of April the stream on the west +side of Catania, which had appeared to be consolidated, again burst +forth, and flowed into the garden of the Benedictine Monastery of San +Niccola, and then branched off into the city. Attempts were made to +build walls to arrest its progress. + +An attempt of another kind was made by a gentleman of Catania, named +Pappalardo, who took fifty men with him, having previously provided them +with skins for protection from the intense heat and with crowbars to +effect an opening in the lava. They pierced the solid outer crust of +solidified lava, and a rivulet of the molten interior immediately gushed +out and flowed in the direction of Paterno, whereupon 500 men of that +town, alarmed for its safety, took up arms and caused Pappalardo and his +men to desist. The lava did not altogether stop for four months, and two +years after it had ceased to flow it was found to be red hot beneath the +surface. Even eight years after the eruption quantities of steam escaped +from the lava after a shower of rain. + + +THE STONES EJECTED + + +The stones which were ejected from the crater during this eruption +were often of considerable magnitude, and Borelli calculated that the +diameter of one which he saw was 50 feet; it was thrown to a distance +of a mile, and as it fell it penetrated the earth to a depth of 23 feet. +The volume of lava emitted during the eruption amounted to many millions +of cubic feet. Ferara considers that the length of the stream was at +least fifteen miles, while its average width was between two and three +miles, so that it covered at least forty square miles of surface. + +Among the towns overflowed by this great eruption was Mompilieri. +Thirty-five years afterward, in 1704, an excavation was made on the site +of the principal church of this place, and at the depth of thirty-five +feet the workmen came upon the gate, which was adorned with three +statues. From under an arch which had been formed by the lava, one +of these statues, with a bell and some coins, were extracted in good +preservation. This fact is remarkable; for in a subsequent eruption, +which happened in 1766, a hill about fifty feet in height, being +surrounded on either side by two streams of lava, was in a quarter of +an hour swept along by the current. The latter event may be explained by +supposing that the hill in question was cavernous in its structure, +and that the lava, penetrating into the cavities, forced asunder their +walls, and so detached the superincumbent mass from its supports. + +It is not by its streams of fire alone that Etna ravages the valleys and +plains at its base. It sometimes also deluges them with great floods of +water. On the 2d of March, 1755, two streams of lava, issuing from the +highest crater, were at once precipitated on an enormous mass of very +deep snow, which then clothed the summit. These fiery currents ran +through the snow to a distance of three miles, melting it as they +flowed. The consequence was, that a tremendous torrent of water rushed +down the sides of the mountain, carrying with it vast quantities of +sand, volcanic cinders and blocks of lava, with which it overspread the +flanks of the mountain and the plains beneath, which it devastated in +its course. + +The volume of water was estimated at 16,000,000 cubic feet, it forming +a channel two miles broad and in some places thirty-four feet deep, +and flowing at the rate of two-thirds of a mile in a minute. All the +winter’s snow on the mountain could not have yielded such a flood, +and Lyell considered that it melted older layers of ice which had been +preserved under a covering of volcanic dust. + + +ETNA IN 1819 + + +Another great eruption took place in 1819, which presented some +peculiarities. Near the point whence the highest stream of lava +issued in 1811, there were opened three large mouths, which, with loud +explosions, threw up hot cinders and sand, illuminated by a strong glare +from beneath. Shortly afterwards there was opened, a little lower down, +another mouth, from which a similar eruption took place; and still +farther down there soon appeared a fifth, whence there flowed a torrent +of lava which rapidly spread itself over the Val del Bove. During the +first forty-eight hours it flowed nearly four miles, when it received a +great accession. The three original mouths became united into one large +crater, from which, as well as from the other two mouths below, there +poured forth a vastly augmented torrent of lava, which rushed with great +impetuosity down the same valley. + +During its progress over this gentle slope, it acquired the usual crust +of hardened slag. It directed its course towards that point at which Val +del Bove opens into the narrow ravine beneath it--there being between +the two a deep and almost perpendicular precipice. Arrived at this +point, the lava-torrent leaped over the precipice in a vast cascade, and +with a thundering noise, arising chiefly from the crashing and breaking +up of the solid crust, which was in a great measure pounded to atoms by +the fall; it throwing up such vast clouds of dust as to awaken an alarm +that a fresh eruption had begun at this place, which is within the +wooded region. + +A very violent eruption, which lasted more than nine months, commenced +on the 21st of August, 1852. It was first witnessed by a party of +English tourists, who were ascending the mountain from Nicolosi in order +to see the sunrise from the summit. As they approached the Casa Inglesi +the crater commenced to give forth ashes and flames of fire. In a narrow +defile they were met by a violent hurricane, which overthrew both the +mules and their riders, and urged them toward the precipices of the Val +del Bove. They sheltered themselves beneath some masses of lava, when +suddenly an earthquake shook the mountain, and their mules in terror +fled away. As day approached they returned on foot to Nicolosi, +fortunately without having sustained injury. In the course of the night +many bocche del fuoco (small lava vents) opened in that part of the Val +del Bove called the Bazo di Trifoglietto, a great fissure opened at the +base of the Giannicola Grande, and a crater was thrown up from which for +seventeen days showers of sand and scoriae were ejected. + + +EFFECT OF THE ERUPTION + + +During the next day a quantity of lava flowed down the Val del +Bove, branching off so that one stream advanced to the foot of Monte +Finocchio, and the other to Monte Calanna. Afterwards it flowed towards +Zaffarana, and devastated a large tract of wooded region. Four days +later a second crater was formed near the first, from which lava was +emitted, together with sand and scoriae, which caused cones to arise +around the craters. The lava moved but slowly, and towards the end of +August it came to a stand, only a quarter of a mile from Zaffarana. + +On the second of September, Gemellaro ascended Monte Finocchio in the +Val del Bove in order to witness the outburst. He states that the hill +was violently agitated, like a ship at sea. The surface of the Val +del Bove appeared like a molten lake; scoriae were thrown up from the +craters to a great height, and loud explosions were heard at frequent +intervals. The eruption continued to increase in violence. On October +6 two new mouths opened in the Val del Bove, emitting lava which flowed +towards the valley of Calanna, and fell over the Salto della Giumenta, +a precipice nearly 200 feet deep. The noise which it produced was like +that of a clash of metallic masses. The eruption continued with abated +violence during the early months of 1853, and it did not finally cease +till May 27. The entire mass of lava ejected is estimated to have been +equal to an area six miles long by two miles broad, with an average +depth of about twelve feet. + +This eruption was one of the grandest of all the known eruptions of +Etna. During its outflow more than 2,000,000,000 cubic feet of molten +lava was spread out over a space of three square miles. There have been +several eruptions since its date, but none of marked prominence, though +the mountain is rarely quiescent for any lengthened period. + + +THE LIPARI VOLCANOES + + +South-eastward of Ischia, between Calabria and Sicily, the Lipari +Islands arrest attention for the volcanic phenomena they present. On +one of these is Mount Vulcano, or Volcano, from which all this class of +mountains is named. At present the best known of the Lipari volcanoes +is Stromboli, which consists of a single mountain, having a very obtuse +conical form. It has on one side of it several small craters, of which +only one is at present in a state of activity. + +The total height of the mountain is about 2000 feet, and the principal +crater is situated at about two-thirds of the height. Stromboli is one +of the most active volcanoes in the world. It is mentioned as being in +a state of activity by several writers before the Christian era, and the +commencement of its operations extends into the past beyond the limits +of tradition. Since history began its action has never wholly ceased, +although it may have varied in intensity from time to time. + +It has been observed that the violence of its eruptive force has a +certain dependence on the weather--being always most intense when the +barometer is lowest. From the position of the crater, it is possible to +ascend the mountain and look down upon it from above. Even when viewed +in this manner, it presents a very striking appearance. While there is +an uninterrupted continuance of small explosions, there is a frequent +succession of more violent eruptions, at intervals varying in length +from seven to fifteen minutes. + + +HOFFMAN AT STROMBOLI + + +Several eminent observers have approached quite close to the crater, +and examined it narrowly. One of these was M. Hoffman, who visited it in +1828. + +This eminent geologist, while having his legs held by his companions, +stretched his head over the precipice, and, looking right down into the +mouth of one of the vents of the crater immediately under him, watched +the play of liquid lava within it. Its surface resembled molten silver, +and was constantly rising and falling at regular intervals. A bubble of +white vapor rose and escaped, with a decrepitating noise, at each ascent +of the lava--tossing up red-hot fragments of scoria, which continued +dancing up and down with a sort of rhythmic play upon the surface. +At intervals of fifteen minutes or so, there was a pause in these +movements. Then followed a loud report, while the ground trembled, and +there rose to the surface of the lava an immense bubble of vapor. This, +bursting with a crackling noise, threw out to the height of about 1200 +feet large quantities of red-hot stones and scoriae, which, describing +parabolic curves, fell in a fiery, shower all around. After another +brief repose, the more moderate action was resumed as before. + +Lipari, a neighboring volcano, was formerly more active than Stromboli, +though for centuries past it has been in a state of complete quiescence. +The Island of Volcano lies south of Lipari. Its crater was active before +the Christian era, and still emits sulphurous and other vapors. At +present its main office is to serve as a sulphur mine. Thus the peak +which gives title to all fire-breathing mountains has become a servant +to man. So are the mighty fallen! + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +Skaptar Jokull and Hecla, the Great Icelandic Volcanoes. + + +The far-northern island of Iceland, on the verge of the frozen Arctic +realm, is one of the most volcanic countries in the world, whether we +regard the number of volcanoes concentrated in so small a space, or the +extraordinary violence of their eruptions. Of volcanic mountains there +are no less than twenty which have been active during historical times. +Skaptar in the north, and Hecla in the south, being much the best known. +In all, twenty-three eruptions are on record. + +Iceland’s volcanoes rival Mount Aetna in height and magnitude, their +action has been more continuous and intense, and the range of volcanic +products is far greater than in Sicily. The latter island, indeed, is +not one-tenth of volcanic origin, while the whole of Iceland is due +to the work of subterranean forces. It is entirely made up of volcanic +rocks, and has seemingly been built up during the ages from the depths +of the seas. It is reported, indeed, that a new island, the work +of volcanic forces, appeared opposite Mount Hecla in 1563; but this +statement is open to doubt. + + +VOLCANOES IN ICELAND + + +The eruptions of the volcanoes in Iceland have been amongst the most +terrible of those carefully recorded. The cold climate of the island +and the height of the mountains produce vast quantities of snow and ice, +which cover the volcanoes and fill up the cracks and valleys in their +sides. When, therefore, an eruption commences, the intense heat of the +boiling lava, and of the steam which rushes forth from the crater, makes +the whole mountain hot, and vast masses of ice, great fields of snow, +and deluges of water roll down the hill-sides into the plains. The lava +pours from the top and from cracks in the side of the mountain, or is +ejected hundreds of feet, to fall amongst the ice and snow; and the +great masses of red-hot stone cast forth, accompanied by cinders and +fine ashes, splash into the roaring torrent, which tears up rocks in its +course and devastates the surrounding country for miles. + + +DREADFUL FLOODS + + +An eruption of Kotlugja, in 1860, was accompanied by dreadful floods. It +began with a number of earthquakes, which shook the surrounding country. +Then a dark columnar cloud of vapor was seen to rise by day from the +mountain, and by night balls of fire (volcanic bombs) and red-hot +cinders to the height of 24,000 feet (nearly five miles), which were +seen at a distance of 180 miles. Deluges of water rushed from the +heights, bearing along whole fields of ice and rocky fragments of every +size, some vomited from the volcano, but in great part torn from the +flanks of the mountain itself and carried to the sea, there to add +considerably to the coastline after devastating the intervening country. +The fountain of volcanic bombs consisted of masses of lava, containing +gases which exploded and produced a loud sound, which was said to have +been heard at a distance of 100 miles. The size of the bombs, and the +height to which they must have reached, were very great. But the most +remarkable of the historical eruptions in Iceland were those of Skaptar +Jokull in 1783, and of Hecla in 1845. Of these an extended description +is worthy of being given. + +Of these two memorable eruptions, that of Skaptar Jokull began on the +11th of June, 1783. It was preceded by a long series of earthquakes, +which had become exceedingly violent immediately before the eruption. On +the 8th, volcanic vapors were emitted from the summit of the mountain, +and on the 11th immense torrents of lava began to be poured forth from +numerous mouths. These torrents united to form a large stream, which, +flowing down into the river Skapta, not only dried it up, but completely +filled the vast gorge through which the river had held its course. This +gorge, 200 feet in breadth, and from 400 to 600 feet in depth, the lava +filled so entirely as to overflow to a considerable extent the fields +on either side. On issuing from this ravine, the lava flowed into a deep +lake which lay in the course of the river. Here it was arrested for a +while; but it ultimately filled the bed of the lake altogether--either +drying up its waters, or chasing them before it into the lower part of +the river’s course. Still forced onward by the accumulation of molten +lava from behind, the stream resumed its advance, till it reached +some ancient volcanic rocks which were full of caverns. Into these it +entered, and where it could not eat its way by melting the old rock, +it forced a passage by shivering the solid mass and throwing its broken +fragments into the air to a height of 150 feet. + + +A TORRENT OF LAVA + + +On the 18th of June there opened above the first mouth a second of large +dimensions, whence poured another immense torrent of lava, which flowed +with great rapidity over the solidified surface of the first stream, and +ultimately combined with it to form a more formidable main current. When +this fresh stream reached the fiery lake, which had filled the lower +portion of the valley of the Skapta, a portion of it was forced up the +channel of that river towards the foot of the hill whence it takes its +rise. After pursuing its course for several days, the main body of this +stream reached the edge of a great waterfall called Stapafoss, which +plunged into a deep abyss. Displacing the water, the lava here leaped +over the precipice, and formed a great cataract of fire. After this, it +filled the channel of the river, though extending itself in breadth far +beyond it, and followed it until it reached the sea. + + +ENORMOUS QUANTITY OF LAVA + + +The 3rd of August brought fresh accessions to the flood of lava still +pouring from the mountain. There being no room in the channel, now +filled by the former lurid stream, which had pursued a northwesterly +course, the fresh lava was forced to take a new direction towards the +southeast, where it entered the bed of another river with a barbaric +name. Here it pursued a course similar to that which flowed through the +channel of the Skapta, filling up the deep gorges, and then spreading +itself out into great fiery lakes over the plains. + +The eruptions of lava from the mountain continued, with some short +intervals, for two years, and so enormous was the quantity poured forth +during this period that, according to a careful estimate which has been +made, the whole together would form a mass equal to that of Mont Blanc. +Of the two streams, the greater was fifty, the less forty, miles in +length. The Skapta branch attained on the plains a breadth varying from +twelve to fifteen miles--that of the other was only about half as much. +Each of the currents had an average depth of 100 feet, but in the +deep gorges it was no less than 600 feet. Even as late as 1794 vapors +continued to rise from these great streams, and the water contained in +the numerous fissures formed in their crust was hot. + +The devastation directly wrought by the lava currents themselves was +not the whole of the evils they brought upon unfortunate Iceland and +its inhabitants. Partly owing to the sudden melting of the snows and +glaciers of the mountain, partly owing to the stoppage of the +river courses, immense floods of water deluged the country in +the neighborhood, destroying many villages and a large amount of +agricultural and other property. Twenty villages were overwhelmed by the +lava currents, while the ashes thrown out during the eruption covered +the whole island and the surface of the sea for miles around its +shores. On several occasions the ashes were drifted by the winds over +considerable parts of the European continent, obscuring the sun and +giving the sky a gray and gloomy aspect. In certain respects they +reproduced the phenomena of the explosion of Mount Krakatoa, which, +singularly, occurred just a century later, in 1883. The strange red +sunset phenomena of the latter were reproduced by this Icelandic event +of the eighteenth century. + +Out of the 50,000 persons who then inhabited Iceland, 9,336 perished, +together with 11,460 head of cattle, 190,480 sheep and 28,000 horses. +This dreadful destruction of life was caused partly by the direct action +of the lava currents, partly by the noxious vapors they emitted, partly +by the floods of water, partly by the destruction of the herbage by the +falling ashes, and lastly in consequence of the desertion of the coasts +by the fish, which formed a large portion of the food of the people. + + +ERUPTION OF MOUNT HECLA + + +After this frightful eruption, no serious volcanic disturbance took +place in Iceland until 1845, when Mount Hecla again became disastrously +active. Mount Hecla has been the most frequent in its eruptions of any +of the Icelandic volcanoes. Previous to 1845 there had been twenty-two +recorded eruptions of this mountain, since the discovery of Iceland +in the ninth century; while from all the other volcanoes in the island +there had been only twenty during the same period. Hecla has more than +once remained in activity for six years at a time--a circumstance that +has rendered it the best known of the volcanoes of this region. + + +LATER OUTBREAKS + + +After enjoying a long rest of seventy-nine years, this volcano burst +again into violent activity in the beginning of September, 1845. The +first inkling of this eruption was conveyed to the British Islands by +a fall of volcanic ashes in the Orkneys, which occurred on the night +of September 2nd during a violent storm. This palpable hint was +soon confirmed by direct intelligence from Copenhagen. On the 1st +of September a severe earthquake, followed the same night by fearful +subterranean noises, alarmed the inhabitants and gave warning of what +was to come. About noon the next day, with a dreadful crash, there +opened in the sides of the volcano two new mouths, whence two great +streams of glowing lava poured forth. They fortunately flowed down the +northern and northwestern sides of the mountain, where the low grounds +are mere barren heaths, affording a scanty pasture for a few sheep. +These were driven before the fiery stream, but several of them were +burnt before they could escape. The whole mountain was enveloped in +clouds of volcanic ashes and vapors. The rivers near the lava currents +became so hot as to kill the fish, and to be impassable even on +horseback. + +About a fortnight later there was a fresh eruption, of greater violence, +which lasted twenty-two hours, and was accompanied by detonations so +loud as to be heard over the whole island. Two new craters were formed, +one on the southern, the other on the eastern slope of the cone. The +lava issuing from these craters flowed to a distance of more than +twenty-two miles. At about two miles from its source the fiery stream +was a mile wide, and from 40 to 50 feet deep. It destroyed a large +extent of fine pasture and many cattle. Nearly a month later, on the +15th of October, a fresh flood of lava burst from the southern crater, +and soon heaped up a mass at the foot of the mountain from 40 to 60 feet +in height, three great columns of vapor, dust and ashes rising at +the same time from the three new craters of the volcano. The mountain +continued in a state of greater or less activity during most of the +next year; and even as late as the month of October, 1846, after a brief +pause, it began again with renewed vehemence. The volumes of dust, ashes +and vapor, thrown up from the craters, and brightly illuminated by the +glowing lava beneath, assumed the appearance of flames, and ascended to +an immense height. + + +ELECTRIC PHENOMENA + + +Among the stones tossed out of the craters was one large mass of pumice +weighing nearly half a ton, which was carried to a distance of between +four and five miles. The rivers were flooded by the melting of ice +and snow which had accumulated on the mountain. The greatest mischief +wrought by these successive eruptions was the destruction of the +pasturages, which were for the most part covered with volcanic ashes. +Even where left exposed, the herbage acquired a poisonous taint which +proved fatal to the cattle, inducing among them a peculiar murrain. +Fortunately, owing to the nature of the district through which the lava +passed, there was on this occasion no loss of human life. + +The Icelandic volcanoes are remarkable for the electric phenomena which +they produce in the atmosphere. Violent thunder-storms, with showers +of rain and hail, are frequent accompaniments of volcanic eruptions +everywhere; but owing to the coldness and dryness of the air into which +the vapors from the Icelandic volcanoes ascend, their condensation is so +sudden and violent that great quantities of electricity are developed. +Thunder-storms accompanied by the most vivid lightnings are the result. +Humboldt mentions in his “Cosmos” that, during an eruption of Kotlugja, +one of the southern Icelandic volcanoes, the lightning from the cloud of +volcanic vapor killed eleven horses and two men (Cosmos i. 223). Great +displays of the aurora borealis usually accompany the volcanic eruptions +of this island--doubtless resulting from the quantity of electricity +imparted to the higher atmosphere by the condensation of the ascending +vapors. On the 18th of August, 1783, while the great eruption of Skaptar +Jokull was in progress, an immense fire-ball passed over England and the +European continent as far as Rome. This ball which was estimated to +have had a diameter exceeding half a mile, is supposed to have been of +electrical origin, and due to the high state of electric tension in the +atmosphere over Iceland at that time. + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +Volcanoes of the Philippines and Other Pacific Islands. + + +We cannot do better than open this chapter with an account of the work +of volcanoes in the mountain-girdled East Indian island of Java. This +large and fertile tropical island has a large native population, and +many European settlers are employed in cultivating spices, coffee and +woods. The island is rather more than 600 miles long, and it is not 150 +miles broad in any part; and this narrow shape is produced by a chain of +volcanoes which runs along it. There is scarcely any other region in +the world where volcanoes are so numerous, even in the East, where the +volcano is a very common product of nature. Some of the volcanoes of +Java are constantly in eruption, while others are inactive. + +One of their number, Galung Gung, was previous to 1822 covered from top +to bottom with a dense forest; around it were populous villages. The +mountain was high; there was a slight hollow on its top--a basin-like +valley, carpeted with the softest sward; brooks rippled down the +hillside through the forests, and, joining their silvery streams, flowed +on through beautiful valleys into the distant sea. In the month of July, +1822, there were signs of an approaching disturbance; this tranquil +peacefulness was at an end; one of the rivers became muddy, and its +waters grew hot. + +In October, without any warning, a most terrific eruption occurred. A +loud explosion was heard; the earth shook, and immense columns of hot +water, boiling mud mixed with burning brimstone, ashes and stones, were +hurled upwards from the mountain top like a waterspout, and with such +wonderful force that large quantities fell at a distance of forty miles. +Every valley near the mountain became filled with burning torrents; +the rivers, swollen with hot water and mud, overflowed their banks, +and swept away the escaping villagers; and the bodies of cattle, wild +beasts, and birds were carried down the flooded stream. + + +ERUPTION OF GALUNG GUNG + + +A space of twenty-four miles between the mountain and a river forty +miles distant was covered to such a depth with blue mud, that people +were buried in their houses, and not a trace of the numerous villages +and plantations was visible. The boiling mud and cinders were cast forth +with such violence from the crater, that while many distant villages +were utterly destroyed and buried, others much nearer the volcano were +scarcely injured; and all this was done in five short hours. + +Four days afterwards a second eruption occurred more violent than the +first, and hot water and mud were cast forth with masses of slag like +the rock called basalt some of which fell seven miles off. A violent +earthquake shook the whole district, and the top of the mountain fell +in, and so did one of its sides, leaving a gaping chasm. Hills appeared +where there had been level land before, and the rivers changed their +courses, drowning in one night 2,000 people. At some distance from the +mountain a river runs through a large town, and the first intimation the +inhabitants had of all this horrible destruction was the news that the +bodies of men and the carcases of stags, rhinoceroses, tigers, and other +animals, were rushing along to the sea. No less than 114 villages +were destroyed, and above 4,000 persons were killed by this terrible +catastrophe. + +Fifty years before this eruption, Mount Papandayang, one of the highest +burning mountains of Java, was constantly throwing out steam and smoke, +but as no harm was done, the natives continued to live on its sides. +Suddenly this enormous mountain fell in, and left a gap fifteen miles +long and six broad. Forty villages were destroyed, some being carried +down and others overwhelmed by mud and burning lava. No less than 2,957 +people perished, with vast numbers of cattle; moreover, most of the +coffee plantations in the neighboring districts were destroyed. + +Even more terrible was the eruption of Mount Salek, another of the +volcanoes of Java. The burning of the mountain was seen 100 miles away, +while the thunders of its convulsions and the tremblings of the +earth reached the same distance. Seven hills, at whose base ran +a river--crowded with dead buffaloes, deer, apes, tigers, and +crocodiles--slipped down and became a level plain. River-courses were +changed, forests were burnt up, and the whole face of the country was +completely altered. + +Later volcanic eruptions in Java include that of 1843, when Mount Guntur +flung out sand and ashes estimated at the vast total of thirty million +tons, and those of 1849 and 1872 when Mount Merapi, a very active +volcano, covered a great extent of country with stones and ashes, and +ruined the coffee plantations of the neighboring districts. + +We have said nothing concerning the most terrible explosion of all, that +of the volcanic island of Krakatoa, off the Javan coast. This event was +so phenomenal as to deserve a chapter of its own, for which we reserve +it. + +The United States, as one result of its recent acquisition of island +dominions, has added largely to its wealth in volcanic mountains. The +famous Hawaiian craters, far the greatest in the world, now belong to +our national estate, and the Philippine Islands contain various others, +of less importance, yet some of which have proved very destructive. A +description of those of the Island of Luzon, which are the most active +in the archipelago, is here sub-joined. + + +THE LUZON VOLCANOES. + + +Volcanoes have played an important part in the formation of the +Philippine Islands and have left traces of their former activity in all +directions. Most of them, however, have long been dead and silent, only +a few of the once numerous group being now active. Of these there are +three of importance in the southern region of Luzon--Taal, Bulusan and +Mayon or Albay. + +The last named of these is the largest and most active of the existing +volcanoes. In form it is of marvellous grace and beauty, forming a +perfect cone, about fifty miles in circuit at base and rising to a +height of 8,900 feet. It is one of the most prominent landmarks to +navigators in the island. From its crater streams upward a constant +smoke, accompanied at times by flame, while from its depths issue +subterranean sounds, often heard at a distance of many leagues. The +whole surrounding country is marked by evidences of old eruptions. + +This mountain, in 1767, sent up a cone of flame of forty feet in +diameter at base, for ten days, and for two months a wide stream of lava +poured from its crater. A month later there gushed forth great floods of +water, which filled the rivers to overflow, doing widespread damage +to the neighboring plantations. But its greatest and most destructive +eruption took place in 1812, the year of the great eruption of the St. +Vincent volcano. On this fatal occasion several towns were destroyed and +no less than 12,000 people lost their lives. The debris flung forth +from the crater were so abundant that deposits deep enough to bury the +tallest trees were formed near the mountain. In 1867 another disastrous +explosion took place, and still another in 1888. A disaster different +in kind and cause occurred in 1876, when a terrible tropical storm burst +upon the mountain. The floods of rain swept from its sides the loose +volcanic material, and brought destruction to the neighboring country, +more than six thousand houses being ruined by the rushing flood. + + +BULUSAN AND TAAL + + +Bulusan, a volcano on the southern extremity of the island, resembles +Vesuvius in shape. For many years it remained dormant, but in 1852 smoke +began to issue from its crater. In some respects the most interesting +of these three volcanoes is that of Taal, which lies almost due south +of Manila and about forty-five miles distant, on a small island in +the middle of a large lake, known as Bombom or Bongbong. A remarkable +feature of this volcanic mountain is that it is probably the lowest in +the world, its height being only 850 feet above sea level. There are +doubtful traditions that Lake Bombom, a hundred square miles in extent, +was formed by a terrible eruption in 1700, by which a lofty mountain +8000 or 9000 feet high, was destroyed. The vast deposits of porous +tufa in the surrounding country are certainly evidences of former great +eruptions from Mount Taal. + +The crater of this volcano is an immense, cup-shaped depression, a mile +or more in diameter and about 800 feet deep. When recently visited by +Professor Worcester, during his travels in these islands, he found it to +contain three boiling lakelets of strangely-colored water, one being of +a dirty brown hue, a second intensely yellow in tint, and the third of a +brilliant emerald green. The mountain still steams and fumes, as if too +actively at work below to be at rest above. In past times it has shown +the forces at play in its depths by breaking at times into frightful +activity. Of the various explosions on record, the three most violent +were those of 1716, 1749, and 1754. In the last-named year the earth for +miles round quaked with the convulsive throes of the deeply disturbed +mountain, and vast quantities of volcanic dust were hurled high into the +air, sufficient to make it dark at midday for many leagues around. +The roofs of distant Manila were covered with volcanic dust and ashes. +Molten lava also poured from the crater and flowed into the lake, which +boiled with the intense heat, while great showers of stones and ashes +fell into its waters. + + +VOLCANOES IN THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS + + +Extinct volcanoes are numerous in Luzon, and there are smoking cones +in the north, and also in the Babuyanes Islands still farther north. +Volcanoes also exist in several of the other islands. On Negros is the +active peak of Malaspina, and on Camiguin, an island about ninety miles +to the southeast, a new volcano broke out in 1876. The large island of +Mindanao has three volcanoes, of which Cottabato was in eruption in +1856 and is still active at intervals. Apo, the largest of the three, +estimated to be 10,312 feet high, has three summits, within which lies +the great crater, now extinct and filled with water. + +In evidence of former volcanic activity are the abundant deposits of +sulphur on the island of Leyte, the hot springs in various localities, +and the earthquakes which occasionally bring death and destruction. Of +the many of these on record, the most destructive was in 1863, when 400 +people were killed and 2,000 injured, while many buildings were wrecked. +Another in 1880 wrought great destruction in Manila and elsewhere, +though without loss of life. An earthquake in Mindanao in 1675 opened a +passage to the sea, and a vast plain emerged. These convulsions of the +earth affect the form and elevation of buildings, which are rarely more +than two stories high and lightly built, while translucent sea-shells +replace glass in their windows. + +While Java is the most prolific in volcanoes of the islands of the +Malayan Archipelago, other islands of the group possess active cones, +including Sumatra, Bali, Amboyna, Banda and others. In Sanguir, an +island north of Celebes, is a volcanic mountain from which there was +a destructive eruption in 1856. The country was devastated with lava, +stones and volcanic ashes, ruining a wide district and killing nearly +3,000 of the inhabitants. Mount Madrian in one of the Spice Islands, was +rent in twain by a fierce eruption in 1646, and since then has remained +two distinct mountains. It became active again in 1862, after two +centuries of repose, and caused great loss of life and property. +Sorea, a small island of the same group, forming but a single volcanic +mountain, had an eruption in 1693, the cone crumbling gradually till +a vast crater was formed, filled with liquid lava and occupying nearly +half the island. This lake of fire increased in size by the same process +till in the end it took possession of the island and forced all the +inhabitants to flee to more hospitable shores. + + +THE GREAT ERUPTION OF TOMBORO + + +But of the East Indian Islands Sumbawa, lying east of Java, contains +the most formidable volcano--one indeed scarcely without a rival in the +world. This is named Tomboro. Of its various eruptions the most furious +on record was that of 1815. This, as we are told by Sir Stamford +Raffles, far exceeded in force and duration any of the known outbreaks +of Etna or Vesuvius. The ground trembled and the echoes of its roar +were heard through an area of 1,000 miles around the volcano, and to a +distance of 300 miles its effects were astounding. + +In Java, 300 miles away, ashes filled the air so thickly that the solar +rays could not penetrate them, and fell to the depth of several inches. +The detonations were so similar to the reports of artillery as to be +mistaken for them. The Rajah of Sang’ir, who was an eye-witness of the +eruption, thus described it to Sir Stamford: + +“About 7 P. M. on the 10th of April, three distinct columns of flame +burst forth near the top of the Tomboro mountain (all of them apparently +within the verge of the crater), and, after ascending separately to a +very great height, their tops united in the air in a troubled, confused +manner. In short time the whole mountain next Sang’ir appeared like a +body of liquid fire, extending itself in every direction. The fire +and columns of flame continued to rage with unabated fury, until the +darkness caused by the quantity of falling matter obscured them, at +about 8 P. M. Stones at this time fell very thick at Sang’ir--some +of them as large as two fists, but generally not larger than walnuts. +Between 9 and 10 P. M. ashes began to fall, and soon after a violent +whirlwind ensued, which blew down nearly every house in the village of +Sang’ir--carrying the roofs and light parts away with it. In the port of +Sang’ir, adjoining Tomboro, its effects were much more violent--tearing +up by the roots the largest trees, and carrying them into the air, +together with men, horses, cattle, and whatever else came within its +influence. This will account for the immense number of floating trees +seen at sea. The sea rose nearly twelve feet higher than it had ever +been known to do before, and completely spoiled the only spots of +rice-land in Sang’ir--sweeping away houses and everything within its +reach. The whirlwind lasted about an hour. No explosions were heard +till the whirlwind had ceased, at about 11 P.M. From midnight till the +evening of the 11th, they continued without intermission. After that +time their violence moderated, and they were heard only at intervals; +but the explosions did not cease entirely until the 15th of July. Of all +the villages of Tomboro, Tempo, containing about forty inhabitants, +is the only one remaining. In Pekate no vestige of a house is left; +twenty-six of the people, who were at Sumbawa at the time, are the whole +of the population who have escaped. From the most particular inquiries +I have been able to make, there were certainly no fewer than 12,000 +individuals in Tomboro and Pekate at the time of the eruption, of whom +only five or six survive. The trees and herbage of every description, +along the whole of the north and west sides of the peninsula, have been +completely destroyed, with the exception of those on a high point of +land, near the spot where the village of Tomboro stood.” + +Tomboro village was not only invaded by the sea on this occasion, but +its site permanently subsided; so that there is now eighteen feet of +water where there was formerly dry land. + + +THE VOLCANOES OF JAPAN + + +The Japanese archipelago, as stated in an earlier chapter, is abundantly +supplied with volcanoes, a number of them being active. Of these the +best known to travelers is Asamayama, a mountain 8,500 feet high, of +which there are several recorded eruptions. The first of these was in +1650; after which the volcano remained feebly active till 1783, when it +broke out in a very severe eruption. In 1870 there was another of some +severity, accompanied by violent shocks of earthquake felt at Yokohama. +The crater is very deep, with irregular rocky walls of a sulphurous +character. + +Far the most famous of all the Japanese mountains, however, is that +named Fuji-san, but commonly termed in English Fujiyama or Fusiyama. It +is in the vicinity of the capital, and is the most prominent object in +the landscape for many miles around. The apex is shaped somewhat like an +eight-petaled lotus flower, and offers to view from different directions +from three to five peaks. + +Though now apparently extinct, it was formerly an active volcano, and is +credited in history with several very disastrous eruptions. The last +of these was in 1707, at which time the whole summit burst into flames. +Rocks were split and shattered by the heat, and stones fell to the depth +of several inches in Yeddo (now Tokyo), sixty miles away. At present +there are in its crater, which has a depth of 700 or 800 feet, neither +sulphurous exhalations nor steam. According to Japanese tradition this +great peak was upheaved in a single night from the bottom of the sea, +more than twenty-one hundred years ago. + +Nothing can be more majestic than this volcano, extinct though it be, +rising in an immense cone from the plain to the height of over twelve +thousand feet, truncated at the top, and with its peak almost always +snow-covered. Its ascent is not difficult to an expert climber, and has +frequently been made. From its summit is unfolded a panorama beyond +the power of words to describe, and probably the most remarkable on the +globe. Mountains, valleys, lakes, forests and the villages of thirteen +counties may be seen. As we gaze upon its beautifully shaped and lofty +mass, visible even from Yokohama and a hundred miles at sea, one does +not wonder that it should be regarded as a holy mountain, and that it +should form a conspicuous object in every Japanese work of art. It is +to the natives of Japan as Mont Blanc is to Europeans, the “monarch of +mountains.” + +In summer pilgrimages are made around the base of the summit elevation, +and there are on the upward path a number of Buddhist temples and +shrines, made of blocks of stone, for devotion, shelter and the storage +of food for pilgrims. Hakone Lake is three thousand feet above the sea, +and probably lies in the crater of an extinct volcano. Its waters are +very deep; it is several miles long and wide, and is surrounded by high +hills which abound in fine scenery, solfataras and mineral springs. + + +HOT SPRINGS NEAR HAKONE LAKE + + +At this place the mountain seems to be smouldering, as sulphur fumes +and steam issue at many points, and the ground is covered with a friable +white alkaline substance. In many a hollow the water bubbles with clouds +of vapor and sulphuretted hydrogen; here the soil is hot and evidently +underlaid by active fires. It is not safe to go very near, as the crust +is thin and crumbling. The water running down the hills has a refreshing +sound and a tempting clearness, but the thirsty tongue at once detects +it to be a very strong solution of alum. The whole aspect of the place +is infernal, and naturally suggests the name given its principal geyser, +O-gigoko (Big Hell). + +Fujiyama is almost a perfect cone, with, as above said, a truncated top, +in which is the crater. It is, however, less steep than Mayon. Its upper +part is comparatively steep, even to thirty-five degrees, but below this +portion the inclination gradually lessens, till its elegant outlines are +lost in the plain from which it rises. The curves of the sides depend +partly on the nature, size and shape of the ejected material, the fine +uniform pieces remaining on comparatively steep slopes, while the larger +and rounder ones roll farther down, resting on the inclination that +afterward becomes curved from the subsidence of the central mass. + +The most recent and one of the most destructive of volcanic eruptions +recorded in Japan was that of Bandaisan or Baldaisan. For ages this +mountain had been peaceful, and there was scarcely an indication of +its volcanic character or of the terrific forces which lay dormant deep +within its heart. On its flanks lay some small deposits of scoriae, +indications of far-past eruptions, and there were some hot springs at +its base, while steam arose from a fissure. Yet there was nothing to +warn the people of the vicinity that deadly peril lay under their feet. + + +BANDAISAN’S WORK OF TERROR + + +This sense of security was fatally dissipated on a day in July, 1888, +when the mountain suddenly broke into eruption and flung 1,600 million +cubic yards of its summit material so high into the air that many of the +falling fragments, in their fall, struck the ground with such velocity +as to be buried far out of sight. The steam and dust were driven to a +height of 13,000 feet, where they spread into a canopy of much greater +elevation, causing pitchy darkness beneath. There were from fifteen to +twenty violent explosions, and a great landslide devastated about thirty +square miles and buried many villages in the Nagase Valley. + +Mr. Norman, a traveler who visited the spot shortly afterward, thus +describes the scene of ruin. After a journey through the forests which +clothed the slopes of the volcanic mountain and prevented any distant +view, the travelers at last found themselves “standing upon the ragged +edge of what was left of the mountain of Bandaisan, after two-thirds of +it, including, of course, the summit, had been literally blown away and +spread over the face of the country. + +“The original cone of the mountain,” he continues, “had been truncated +at an acute angle to its axis. From our very feet a precipitous mud +slope falls away for half a mile or more till it reaches the level. At +our right, still below us, rises a mud wall a mile long, also sloping +down to the level, and behind it is evidently the crater; but before us, +for five miles in a straight line, and on each side nearly as far, is +a sea of congealed mud, broken up into ripples and waves and great +billows, and bearing upon its bosom a thousand huge boulders, weighing +hundreds of tons apiece.” + +On reaching the crater he found it to resemble a gigantic cauldron, +fully a mile in width, and enclosed with precipitous walls of indurated +mud. From several orifices volumes of steam rose into the air, and when +the vapor cleared away for a moment glimpses of a mass of boiling mud +were obtained. Before the eruption the mountain top had terminated in +three peaks. Of these the highest had an elevation of about 5,800 feet. +The peak destroyed was the middle one, which was rather smaller than the +other two. + +“The explosion was caused by steam; there was neither fire nor lava of +any kind. It was, in fact, nothing more nor less than a gigantic boiler +explosion. The whole top and one side of Sho-Bandai-san had been blown +into the air in a lateral direction, and the earth of the mountain was +converted by the escaping steam, at the moment of the explosion, into +boiling mud, part of which was projected into the air to fall at a long +distance, and then take the form of an overflowing river, which rushed +with vast rapidity and covered the country to a depth of from 20 to 150 +feet. Thirty square miles of country were thus devastated.” + +In the devastated lowlands and buried villages below and on the slopes +of the mountain many lives were lost. From the survivors Mr. Norman +gathered some information, enabling him to describe the main features of +the catastrophe. We append a brief outline of his narrative: + + +MR. NORMAN’S NARRATIVE + + +“At a few minutes past 8 o’clock in the morning a frightful noise was +heard by the inhabitants of a village ten miles distant from the crater. +Some of them instinctively took to flight, but before they could run +much more than a hundred yards the light of day was suddenly changed +into a darkness more intense than that of midnight; a shower of blinding +hot ashes and sand poured down upon them; the ground was shaken with +earthquakes, and explosion followed explosion, the last being the most +violent of all. Many fugitives, as well as people in the houses, were +overwhelmed by the deluge of mud, none of the fugitives, when overtaken +by death, being more than two hundred yards from the village.” From the +statements made by those fortunate enough to escape with their lives, +and from a personal examination of the ground, Mr. Norman inferred that +the mud must have been flung fully six miles through the air and then +have poured in a torrent along the ground for four miles further. All +this was done in less than five minutes, so that “millions of tons of +boiling mud were hurled over the country at the rate of two miles a +minute.” + +The velocity of the mud torrent may perhaps be overestimated, but in its +awful suddenness this catastrophe was evidently one with few equals. The +cone destroyed may have been largely composed of rather fine ashes and +scoriae, which was almost instantaneously converted into mud by the +condensing steam and the boiling water ejected. The quantity of water +thus discharged must have been enormous. + +Of the remaining volcanic regions of the Pacific, the New Zealand +islands present some of the most striking examples of activity. All +the central parts, indeed, of the northern island of the group are of a +highly volcanic character. There is here a mountain named Tongariro, on +whose snow-clad summit is a deep crater, from which volcanic vapors are +seen to issue, and which exhibits other indications of having been in a +state of greater activity at a not very remote period of time. There +is also, at no great distance from this mountain, a region containing +numerous funnel-shaped chasms, emitting hot water, or steam, or +sulphurous vapors, or boiling mud. The earthquakes in New Zealand had +probably their origin in this volcanic focus. + + +THE NEW ZEALAND VOLCANOES + + +Tongariro has a height of about 6,500 feet, while Egmont, 8,270 feet in +height, is a perfect cone with a perpetual cap of snow. There are many +other volcanic mountains, and also great numbers of mud volcanoes, hot +springs and geysers. It is for the latter that the island is best known +to geologists. Their waters are at or near the boiling point and contain +silica in abundance. + +At a place called Rotomahana, in the vicinity of Mount Tarawera, there +was formerly a lake of about one hundred and twenty acres in area, +which was in its way one of the most remarkable bodies of water upon the +earth. Formerly, we say, for this lake no longer exists, it having been +destroyed by the very forces to which it owed its fame. Its waters were +maintained nearly at the boiling point by the continual accession of +boiling water from numerous springs. The most abundant of those sources +was situated at the height of about 100 feet above the level of the +lake. It kept continually filled an oval basin about 250 feet in +circumference--the margins of which were fringed all round with +beautiful pure white stalactites, formed by deposits of silica, with +which the hot water was strongly impregnated. At various stages below +the principal spring were several others, that contributed to feed the +lake at the bottom, in the centre of which was a small island. Minute +bubbles continually escaped from the surface of the water with a hissing +sound, and the sand all round the lake was at a high temperature. If a +stick was thrust into it, very hot vapors would ascend from the hole. +Not far from this lake were several small basins filled with tepid +water, which was very clear, and of a blue color. + +The conditions here were of a kind with those to which are due the great +geysers of Iceland and the Yellowstone Park, but different in the fact +that instead of being intermittent and throwing up jets at intervals, +the springs allowed the water to flow from them in a continuous stream. + + +THE PINK AND WHITE TERRACES + + +The silicious incrustations left by the overflow from the large pool had +made a series of terraces, two to six feet high, with the appearance of +being hewn from white or pink marble; each of the basins containing +a similar azure water. These terraces covered an area of about three +acres, and looked like a series of cataracts changed into stone, each +edge being fringed with a festoon of delicate stalactites. The water +contained about eighty-five per cent. of silica, with one or two per +cent of iron alumina, and a little alkali. + +There were no more beautiful products of nature upon the earth than +those “pink and white terraces,” as they were called. The hot springs of +the Yellowstone have produced formations resembling them, but not +their equal in fairy-like charm. One series of these terraced pools and +cascades was of the purest white tint, the other of the most delicate +pink, the waters topping over the edge of each pool and falling in a +miniature cascade to the one next below, thus keeping the edges built +up by a continual renewal of the silicious incrustation. But all their +beauty could not save them from utter and irremediable destruction by +the forces below the earth’s surface. + +On June 9, 1886, a great volcanic disturbance began in the Auckland Lake +region with a tremendous earthquake, followed during the night by many +others. At seven the next morning a lead-covered cloud of pumice sand, +advancing from the south, burst and discharged showers of fine dust. +The range of Mount Tarawera seemed to be in full volcanic activity, +including some craters supposed to be extinct, and embracing an area of +one hundred and twenty miles by twenty. + +The showers of dust were so thick as to turn day into night for nearly +two days. Some lives were lost, and several villages were destroyed, +these being covered ten feet deep with ashes, dust and clayey mud. The +volcanic phenomena were of the most violent character, and the whole +island appears to have been more or less convulsed. Mount Tarawera is +said to be five hundred feet higher than before the eruption; glowing +masses were thrown up into the air, and tongues of fiery hue, gases or +illuminated vapors, five hundred feet wide, towered up one thousand feet +high. The mountain was 2,700 feet in height. + + +TARAWERA IN ERUPTION + + +This eruption presented a spectacle of rarely-equalled grandeur. +To travelers and strangers the greatest resultant loss will be the +destruction of those world-famous curiosities, the white and pink +terraces, in the vicinity of Lake Rotomahana and the region of the +famous geysers. The natives have a superstition that the eruption of the +extinct Tarawera was caused by the profanation of foreign footsteps. It +was to them a sacred place, and its crater a repository for their dead. +The first earthquake occurred in this region. One side of the mountain +fell in, and then the eruption began. The basin of the lake was broken +up and disappeared, but again reappeared as a boiling mud cauldron; +craters burst out in various places, and the beautiful terraces were no +more. After the first day the violence gradually diminished, and in a +week had ceased. Very possibly another lake will be formed, and in time +other terraces; but it is hardly within the range of probability that +the beauty of the lost terraces will ever be paralleled. + +In this eruption, as usual, we find the earthquake preceding the +volcanic outburst. New Zealand, like the Philippines, Java and the +Japanese Islands, is situated over a great earth-fissure or line of +weakness. Subsidence or dislocation from tensile strain of the crust +took place, and the influx of water to new regions of heated strata +may have developed the explosive force. The earthquake and the volcano +worked together here, as they frequently do, unfortunately in this case +destroying one of the most beautiful scenes on the surface of the globe. + + +THE ANTARCTIC VOLCANOES + + +Much further south, on the frozen shore of Victoria Land in the +Antarctic regions, Sir James Ross, in 1841, sailing in his discovery +ships the Erebus and Terror, discovered two great volcanic mountains, +which he named after those two vessels. Mount Erebus is continually +covered, from top to bottom, with snow and glaciers. The mountain is +about 12,000 feet high, and although the snow reaches to the very edge +of the crater, there rise continually from the summit immense volumes of +volcanic fumes, illuminated by the glare of glowing lava beneath them. +The vapors ascend to an estimated height of 2,200 feet above the top of +the mountain. + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +The Wonderful Hawaiian Craters and Kilauea’s Lake of Fire. + + +In the central region of the North Pacific Ocean lies the archipelago +formerly known as the Sandwich Islands, now collectively designated as +Hawaii. The people of the United States should be specially interested +in this island group, for it has become one of our possessions, an +outlying Territory of our growing Republic, and in making it part of +our national domain we have not alone extended our dominion far over the +seas, but have added to the many marvels of nature within our land one +of the chief wonders of the world, the stupendous Hawaiian +volcanoes, before whose grandeur many of more ancient fame sink into +insignificance. + + +THE ISLAND OF HAWAII + + +The Island of Hawaii, the principal island of the group, we may safely +say contains the most enormous volcano of the earth. Indeed, the whole +island, which is 4000 square miles in extent, may be regarded as of +volcanic origin. It contains four volcanic mountains--Kohola, Hualalia, +Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. The two last named are the chief, the former +being 13,800 feet, the latter 13,600 feet, above the sea-level. Although +their height is so vast, the ascent to their summits is so gradual that +their circumference at the base is enormous. The bulk of each of them is +reckoned to be equal to two and a half times that of Etna. Some of the +streams of lava which have emanated from them are twenty-six miles in +length by two miles in breadth. + +On the adjoining island of Maui is a still larger volcano, the mighty +Haleakala, long since extinct, but memorable as possessing the most +stupendous crater on the face of the earth. The mountain itself is +over 10,000 feet high, and forms a great dome-like mass of 90 miles +circumference at base. The crater on its summit has a length of 7 1/2 +and a width of 2 1/4 miles, with a total area of about sixteen square +miles. The only approach in dimensions to this enormous opening exists +in the still living crater of Kilauea, on the flank of Mauna Loa. + + +A VOLCANIC ISLAND GROUP + + +The peaks named are the most apparent remnants of a world-rending +volcanic activity in the remote past, by whose force this whole Hawaiian +island group was lifted up from the depths of the ocean, here descending +some three and a half miles below the surface level. The coral reefs +which abound around the islands are of comparatively recent formation, +and rest upon a substratum of lava probably ages older, which forms the +base of the archipelago. The islands are volcanic peaks and ridges that +have been pushed up above the surrounding seas by the profound action of +the interior forces of the earth. + +It must not be supposed that this action was a violent perpendicular +thrust upward over a very limited locality, for the mountains continue +to slope at about the same angle under the sea and for great distances +on every side, so that the islands are really the crests of an extensive +elevation, estimated to cover an area of about 2000 miles in one +direction by 150 or 200 miles in the other. The process was probably +a gradual one of up-building, by means of which the sea receded as the +land steadily rose. Some idea of the mighty forces that have been at +work beneath the sea and above it can be gained by considering the +enormous mass of material now above the sea-level. Thus, the bulk of the +island of Hawaii, the largest of the group, has been estimated by the +Hawaiian Surveyor General as containing 3,600 cubic miles of lava rock +above sea-level. Taking the area of England at 50,000 square miles, this +mass of volcanic matter would cover that entire country to a depth of +274 feet. We must remember, however, that what is above sea-level is +only a small fraction of the total amount, since it sweeps down below +the waves hundreds of miles on every side. + + +CRATER OF HALEAKALA + + +Of the lava openings on these islands, the extinct one of Haleakala, +as stated, with its twenty-seven miles circumference, is far the most +stupendous. It is easy of access, the mountain sides leading to it +presenting a gentle slope; while the walls of the crater, in places +perpendicular, in others are so sloping that man and horse can descend +them. The pit varies from 1500 to 2000 feet in depth, its bottom being +very irregular from the old lava flows and the many cinder cones, these +still looking as fresh as though their fires had just gone out. Some +of these cones are over 500 feet high. There is a tradition among the +natives that the vast lava streams which in the past flowed from the +crater to the sea continued to do so in the period of their remote +ancestors. They still, indeed, appear as if recent, though there are +to-day no signs of volcanic activity anywhere on this island. + +In fact, the only volcano now active in the Hawaiian Islands is Mauna +Loa, in the southern section of the Island of Hawaii. A striking feature +of this is that it has two distinct and widely disconnected craters, one +on its summit, the other on its flank, at a much lower level. The latter +is the vast crater of Kilauea, the largest active crater known on the +face of the globe. + + +MISS BIRD IN THE CRATER OF KILAUEA + + +We cannot offer a better description of the aspect of this lava abyss +than to give Miss Bird’s eloquent description of her adventurous descent +into it: + +“The abyss, which really is at a height of four thousand feet on the +flank of Mauna Loa, has the appearance of a pit on a rolling plain. But +such a pit! It is quite nine miles in circumference, and at its lowest +area--which not long ago fell about three hundred feet, just as the ice +on a pond falls when the water below is withdrawn--covers six square +miles. The depth of the crater varies from eight hundred to one thousand +feet, according as the molten sea below is at flood or ebb. Signs of +volcanic activity are present more or less throughout its whole depth +and for some distance along its margin, in the form of steam-cracks, +jets of sulphurous vapor, blowing cones, accumulating deposits of +acicular crystals of sulphur, etc., and the pit itself is constantly +rent and shaken by earthquakes. Great eruptions occur with circumstances +of indescribable terror and dignity; but Kilauea does not limit its +activity to these outbursts, but has exhibited its marvellous phenomena +through all known time in a lake or lakes on the southern part of the +crater three miles from this side. + +“This lake--the Hale-mau-mau, or ‘House of everlasting Fire’, of +the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess Pele--is +approachable with safety, except during an eruption. The spectacle, +however, varies almost daily; and at times the level of the lava in the +pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating gases are evolved in +such enormous quantities, that travellers are unable to see anything. + +“At the time of our visit there had been no news from it for a week; and +as nothing was to be seen but a very faint bluish vapor hanging round +its margin, the prospect was not encouraging. After more than an hour +of very difficult climbing, we reached the lowest level of the crater, +pretty nearly a mile across, presenting from above the appearance of a +sea at rest; but on crossing it, we found it to be an expanse of waves +and convolutions of ashy-colored lava, with huge cracks filled up with +black iridescent rolls of lava only a few weeks old. Parts of it are +very rough and ridgy, jammed together like field-ice, or compacted by +rolls of lava, which may have swelled up from beneath; but the largest +part of the area presents the appearance of huge coiled hawsers, the +ropy formation of the lava rendering the illusion almost perfect. These +are riven by deep cracks, which emit hot sulphurous vapors. + +“As we ascended, the flow became hotter under our feet, as well as more +porous and glistening. It was so hot that a shower of rain hissed as it +fell upon it. The crust became increasingly insecure, and necessitated +our walking in single file with the guide in front, to test the security +of the footing. I fell through several times, and always into holes full +of sulphurous steam so malignantly acid that my strong dogskin gloves +were burned through as I raised myself on my hands. + +“We had followed the lava-flow for thirty miles up to the crater’s +brink, and now we had toiled over recent lava for three hours, and, by +all calculations, were close to the pit; yet there was no smoke or sign +of fire, and I felt sure that the volcano had died out for once for my +special disappointment. + +“Suddenly, just above and in front of us, gory drops were tossed in +the air, and springing forwards, we stood on the brink of Hale-mau-mau, +which was about thirty-five feet below us. I think we all screamed. I +know we all wept; but we were speechless, for a new glory and terror had +been added to the earth. It is the most unutterable of wonderful things. +The words of common speech are quite useless. It is unimaginable, +indescribable; a sight to remember forever; a sight which at once took +possession of every faculty of sense and soul, removing one altogether +out of the range of ordinary life. Here was the real ‘bottomless pit’, +‘the fire which is not quenched’, ‘the place of Hell’, ‘the lake which +burneth with fire and brimstone’, ‘the everlasting burnings’, ‘the fiery +sea whose waves are never weary’. Perhaps those Scripture phrases +were suggested by the sight of some volcano in eruption. There were +groanings, rumblings, and detonations; rushings, hissings, splashings, +and the crashing sound of breakers on the coast; but it was the surging +of fiery waves upon a fiery shore. But what can I write? Such words as +jets, fountains, waves, spray, convey some idea of order and regularity, +but here there are none. + +“The inner lake, while we stood there, formed a sort of crater within +itself; the whole lava sea rose about three feet; a blowing cone about +eight feet high was formed; it was never the same two minutes together. +And what we saw had no existence a month before, and probably will be +changed in every essential feature a month from hence. The prominent +object was fire in motion; but the surface of the double lake was +continually skimming over for a second or two with a cool crust of +lustrous grey-white, like frost-silver, broken by jagged cracks of a +bright rose-color. The movement was nearly always from the sides to the +centre; but the movement of the centre itself appeared independent, and +always took a southerly direction. Before each outburst of agitation +there was much hissing and throbbing, with internal roaring as of +imprisoned gases. Now it seemed furious, demoniacal, as if no power +on earth could bind it, then playful and sportive; then for a second +languid, but only because it was accumulating fresh force. Sometimes the +whole lake took the form of mighty waves, and, surging heavily against +the partial barrier with a sound like the Pacific surf, lashed, tore, +covered it, and threw itself over it in clots of living fire. It was all +confusion, commotion, forces, terror, glory, majesty, mystery, and even +beauty. And the color, ‘eye hath not seen’ it! Molten metal hath not +that crimson gleam, nor blood that living light.” + +To this description we may add that of Mr. Ellis, a former missionary to +these islands, and one of the number who have descended to the shores of +Kilauea’s abyss of fire. He says, after describing his difficult descent +and progress over the lava-strewn pit: + + +MR. ELLIS VISITS THE LAKE OF LAVA + + +“Immediately before us yawned an immense gulf, in the form of a +crescent, about two miles in length, from northeast to southwest; nearly +a mile in width, and apparently 800 feet deep. The bottom was covered +with lava, and the southwestern and northern parts of it were one vast +flood of burning matter in a state of terrific ebullition, rolling +to and fro its ‘fiery surges’ and flaming billows. Fifty-one conical +islands, of varied form and size, containing as many craters, rose +either round the edge or from the surface of the burning lake; +twenty-two constantly emitted columns of gray smoke or pyramids of +brilliant flame, and several of these at the same time vomited from +their ignited mouths streams of lava, which rolled in blazing torrents +down their black indented sides into the boiling mass below. + +“The existence of these conical craters led us to conclude that the +boiling cauldron of lava before us did not form the focus of the +volcano; that this mass of melted lava was comparatively shallow, and +that the basin in which it was contained was separated by a stratum of +solid matter from the great volcanic abyss, which constantly poured +out its melted contents through these numerous craters into this +upper reservoir. The sides of the gulf before us, although composed of +different strata of ancient lava, were perpendicular for about 400 feet, +and rose from a wide horizontal ledge of solid black lava of irregular +breadth, but extending completely round. Beneath this ledge the sides +sloped gradually towards the burning lake, which was, as nearly as we +could judge, 300 or 400 feet lower. + +“It was evident that the large crater had been recently filled with +liquid lava up to this black ledge, and had, by some subterraneous +canal, emptied itself into the sea or spread under the low land on the +shore. The gray and in some places apparently calcined sides of the +great crater before us, the fissures which intersected the surface of +the plain on which we were standing, the long banks of sulphur on the +opposite side of the abyss, the vigorous action of the numerous small +craters on its borders, the dense columns of vapor and smoke that rose +at the north and west end of the plain, together with the ridge of steep +rocks by which it was surrounded, rising probably in some places 300 +or 400 feet in perpendicular height, presented an immense volcanic +panorama, the effect of which was greatly augmented by the constant +roaring of the vast furnaces below.” + + +MAUNA LOA IN ERUPTION + + +Of the two great craters of Mauna Loa, the summit one has frequently +in modern times overflowed its crest and poured its molten streams in +glowing rivers over the land. This has rarely been the case with the +lower and incessantly active crater of Kilauea, whose lava, when in +excess, appears to escape by subterranean channels to the sea. We append +descriptions of some of the more recent examples of Mauna Loa’s eruptive +energy. The lava from this crater does not alone flow over the crater’s +lip, but at times makes its way through fissures far below, the immense +pressure causing it to spout in great flashing fountains high into the +air. In 1852 the fiery fountains reached a height of 500 feet. In some +later eruptions they have leaped 1,000 feet high. The lava is white hot +as it ascends, but it assumes a blood-red tint in its fall, and strikes +the ground with a frightful noise. + +The quantities of lava ejected in some of the recent eruptions have been +enormous. The river-like flow of 1855 was remarkable for its extent, +being from two to eight miles wide, with a depth of from three to three +hundred feet, and extending in a winding course for a distance of sixty +miles. The Apostle of Hawaiian volcanoes, the Rev. Titus Coan, who +ventured to the source of this flow while it was in supreme action, thus +describes it:-- + +“We ascended our rugged pathway amidst steam and smoke and heat which +almost blinded and scathed us. We came to open orifices down which we +looked into the fiery river which rushed madly under our feet. These +fiery vents were frequent, some of them measuring ten, twenty, fifty +or one hundred feet in diameter. In one place we saw the river of lava +uncovered for thirty rods and rushing down a declivity of from ten to +twenty-five degrees. The scene was awful, the momentum incredible, the +fusion perfect (white heat), and the velocity forty miles an hour. The +banks on each side of the stream were red-hot, jagged and overhanging. +As we viewed it rushing out from under its ebon counterpane, and in the +twinkling of an eye diving again into its fiery den, it seemed to say, +‘Stand off! Scan me not! I am God’s messenger. A work to do. Away!’” + +Later he wrote again:--“The great summit fountain is still playing with +fearful energy, and the devouring stream rushes madly down toward us. It +is now about ten miles distant, and heading directly for our bay. In +a few days we may be called to announce the painful fact that our +beauteous Hilo is no more,--that our lovely, our inimitable landscape, +our emerald bowers, our crescent strand and our silver bay are blotted +out. A fiery sword hangs over us. A flood of burning ruin approaches us. +Devouring fires are near us. With sure and solemn progress the glowing +fusion advances through the dark forest and the dense jungle in our +rear, cutting down ancient trees of enormous growth and sweeping away +all vegetable life. For months the great summit furnace on Mauna Loa has +been in awful blast. Floods of burning destruction have swept wildly +and widely over the top and down the sides of the mountain. The wrathful +stream has overcome every obstacle, winding its fiery way from its high +source to the bases of the everlasting hills, spreading in a molten sea +over the plains, penetrating the ancient forests, driving the bellowing +herds, the wild goats and the affrighted birds before its lurid glare, +leaving nothing but ebon blackness and smoldering ruin in its track.” + +His anticipation of the burial of Hilo under the mighty flow was happily +not realized. It came to an abrupt halt while seven miles distant, the +checked stream standing in a threatening and rugged ridge, with rigid, +beetling front. + + +THE ERUPTIONS OF 1859 AND 1865 + + +In January, 1859, Mauna Loa was again at its fire-play, throwing up +lava fountains from 800 to 1,000 feet in height. From this great fiery +fountain the lava flowed down in numerous streams, spreading over a +width of five or six miles. One stream, probably formed by the junction +of several smaller, attained a height of from twenty to twenty-five +feet, and a breadth of about an eighth of a mile. Great stones were +thrown up along with the jet of lava, and the volume of seeming smoke, +composed probably of fine volcanic dust, is said to have risen to the +height of 10,000 feet. + +An eruption of still greater violence took place in 1865, characterized +by similar phenomena, particularly the throwing up of jets of lava. This +fiery fountain continued to play without intermission for twenty days +and nights, varying only as respects the height to which the jet arose, +which is said to have ranged between 100 and 1,000 feet, the mean +diameter of the jet being about 100 feet. This eruption was accompanied +by explosions so loud as to have been heard at a distance of forty +miles. + +A cone of about 300 feet in height, and about a mile in circumference, +was accumulated round the orifice whence the jet ascended. It was +composed of solid matters ejected with the lava, and it continued +to glow like a furnace, notwithstanding its exposure to the air. The +current of lava on this occasion flowed to a distance of thirty-five +miles, burning its way through the forests, and filling the air with +smoke and flames from the ignited timber. The glare from the glowing +lava and the burning trees together was discernible by night at a +distance of 200 miles from the island. + + +THE LAVA FLOW OF 1880 + + +A succeeding great lava flow was that which began on November 6, 1880. +Mr. David Hitchcock, who was camping on Mauna Kea at the time of this +outbreak, saw a spectacle that few human eyes have ever beheld. “We +stood,” writes he, “on the very edge of that flowing river of rock. Oh, +what a sight it was! Not twenty feet from us was this immense bed of +rock slowly moving forward with irresistible force, bearing on its +surface huge rocks and immense boulders of tons’ weight as water would +carry a toy-boat. The whole front edge was one bright red mass of solid +rock incessantly breaking off from the towering mass and rolling down +to the foot of it, to be again covered by another avalanche of white-hot +rocks and sand. The whole mass at its front edge was from twelve to +thirty feet in height. Along the entire line of its advance it was +one crash of rolling, sliding, tumbling red-hot rock. We could hear no +explosions while we were near the flow, only a tremendous roaring like +ten thousand blast furnaces all at work at once.” + +This was the most extensive flow of recent years, and its progress from +the interior plain through the dense forests above Hilo and out on to +the open levels close to the town was startling and menacing enough. +Through the woods especially it was a turbulent, seething mass that +hurled down mammoth trees, and licked up streams of water, and day and +night kept up an unintermitting cannonade of explosions. The steam +and imprisoned gases would burst the congealing surface with loud +detonations that could be heard for many miles. It was not an infrequent +thing for parties to camp out close to the flow over night. Ordinarily a +lava-flow moves sluggishly and congeals rapidly, so that what seems +like hardihood in the narrating is in reality calm judgment, for it is +perfectly safe to be in the close vicinity of a lava-stream, and even to +walk on its surface as soon as one would be inclined to walk on cooling +iron in a foundry. This notable flow finally ceased within half a mile +of Hilo, where its black form is a perpetual reminder of a marvellous +deliverance from destruction. + + +KILAUEA IN 1840 + + +Kilauea seems never, in historic times, to have filled and overflowed +its vast crater. To do so would need an almost inconceivable volume of +liquid rock material. But it approached this culmination in 1840, when +it became, through its whole extent, a raging sea of fire. The boiling +lava rose in the mighty mountain-cup to a height of from 500 to +600 feet. Then it forced a passage through a subterranean cavity +twenty-seven miles long, and reached the sea forty miles distant, in two +days. The stream where it fell into the sea was half a mile wide, and +the flow kept up for three weeks, heating the ocean twenty miles from +land. An eye-witness of this extraordinary flow thus describes it: + +“When the torrent of fire precipitated itself into the ocean, the +scene assumed a character of terrific and indescribable grandeur. The +magnificence of destruction was never more perceptibly displayed than +when these antagonistic elements met in deadly strife. The mightiest of +earth’s magazines of fire poured forth its burning billows to meet the +mightiest of oceans. For two score miles it came rolling, tumbling, +swelling forward, an awful agent of death. Rocks melted like wax in its +path; forests crackled and blazed before its fervent heat; the works of +man were to it but as a scroll in the flames. Imagine Niagara’s stream, +above the brink of the Falls, with its dashing, whirling, madly-raging +waters hurrying on to their plunge, instantaneously converted into fire; +a gory-hued river of fused minerals; volumes of hissing steam arising; +some curling upward from ten thousand vents, which give utterance to +as many deep-toned mutterings, and sullen, confined clamorings; gases +detonating and shrieking as they burst from their hot prison-house; +the heavens lurid with flame; the atmosphere dark and oppressive; the +horizon murky with vapors and gleaming with the reflected contest! + +“Such was the scene as the fiery cataract, leaping a precipice of fifty +feet, poured its flood upon the ocean. The old line of coast, a mass +of compact, indurated lava, whitened, cracked and fell. The waters +recoiled, and sent forth a tempest of spray; they foamed and dashed +around and over the melted rock, they boiled with the heat, and the roar +of the conflicting agencies grew fiercer and louder. The reports of the +exploding gases were distinctly heard twenty-five miles distant, and +were likened to a whole broadside of heavy artillery. Streaks of the +intensest light glanced like lightning in all directions; the outskirts +of the burning lava as it fell, cooled by the shock, were shivered into +millions of fragments, and scattered by the strong wind in sparkling +showers far into the country. For three successive weeks the volcano +disgorged an uninterrupted burning tide, with scarcely any diminution, +into the ocean. On either side, for twenty miles, the sea became heated, +with such rapidity that, on the second day of the junction of the lava +with the ocean, fishes came ashore dead in great numbers, at a point +fifteen miles distant. Six weeks later, at the base of the hills, the +water continued scalding hot, and sent forth steam at every wash of the +waves.” + + +THE SINKING OF KILAUEA’S FIRE-LAKE + + +In 1866 the great crater of Kilauea presented a new and unlooked-for +spectacle in the sinking and vanishing of its great lava lake. In March +of that year the fires in the ancient cauldron totally disappeared, and +the surrounding lava rock sank to a depth of nearly 600 feet. Mr. Thrum, +in a pamphlet on “The Suspended Activity of Kilauea,” says of it: + +“Distant rumbling noises were heard, accompanied by a series of +earthquakes, forty-three in number. With the fourth shock the brilliancy +of New Lake disappeared, and towards 3 A. M. the fires in Halemaumau +disappeared also, leaving the whole crater in darkness. + +“With the dawn the shocks and noises ceased, and revealed the +changes which Kilauea had undergone in the night. All the high cliffs +surrounding Halemaumau and New Lake, which had become a prominent +feature in the crater, had vanished entirely, and the molten lava of +both lakes had disappeared by some subterranean passage from the bottom +of Halemaumau. There was no material change in the sunken portion of the +crater except a continual falling in of rocks and debris from its +banks as the contraction from its former intense heat loosened their +compactness and sent them hurling some 200 or 300 feet below, giving +forth at times a boom as of distant thunder, followed by clouds +of cinders and ashes shooting up into the air 100 to 300 feet, +proportionate, doubtless, to the size of the newly fallen mass. + +“This remarkable recession of the liquid lava in Halemaumau was probably +due to the opening of some deep subterranean passage through which the +lake of lava made its way unseen to the ocean’s depths. The Rev. Mr. +Baker, probably the most adventuresome explorer of Hawaiian volcanoes, +actually descended into that crumbling pit to a point within what he +judged to be fifty feet of the bottom. But Halemaumau had only taken +an intermission, for in two short months signs of returning life became +frequent and unmistakable, and, in June, culminated in the sudden +outbreak of a lake that has since then steadily increased in activity.” + + +THE GODDESS PELE + + +We cannot close this chapter without some reference to the Goddess Pele, +to whom the Hawaiians long imputed the wonder-work of their volcanic +mountains. When there is unusual commotion in Kilauea myriads of +thread-like filaments float in the air and fall upon the cliffs, making +deposits much resembling matted hair. A single filament over fifteen +inches long was picked up on a Hilo veranda, having sailed in the air +a distance of fifty miles. This is the famous Pele’s Hair, being the +glass-like product of volcanic fires. It resembles Prince Rupert’s +Drops, and the tradition is that whenever the volcano becomes active +it is because Pele, the Goddess of the crater, emerges from her fiery +furnace and shakes her vitreous locks in anger. + +This fabled being, according to Emerson, in a paper on “The Lesser +Hawaiian Gods,” “could at times assume the appearance of a handsome +young woman, as when Kamapauaa, to his cost, was smitten with her charms +when first he saw her with her sisters at Kilauea.” Kamapauaa was a +gigantic hog, who “could appear as a handsome young man, a hog, a fish +or a tree.” “At other times the innate character of the fury showed +itself, and Pele appeared in her usual form as an ugly and hateful old +hag, with tattered and fire-burnt garments, scarcely concealing the +filth and nakedness of her person. Her bloodshot eyes and fiendish +countenance paralyzed the beholder, and her touch turned him to stone. +She was a jealous and vindictive monster, delighting in cruelty, and at +the slightest provocation overwhelming the unoffending victims of her +rage in widespread ruin.” + +The superstition regarding the Goddess Pele was thought to have received +a death blow in 1825, when Kapiolani, an Hawaiian princess and a +Christian convert, ascended, with numerous attendants, to the crater of +Kilauea, where she publicly defied the power and wrath of the goddess. +No response came to her defiance, she descended in safety, and faith in +Pele’s power was widely shaken. + +Yet as late as 1887 the old superstition revived and claimed an exalted +victim, for in that year the Princess Like Like, the youngest sister of +the king, starved herself to death to appease the anger of the Goddess +Pele, supposed to be manifested in Mauna Loa’s eruption of that year, +and to be quieted only by the sacrifice of a victim of royal blood. Thus +slowly do the old superstitions die away. + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +Popocatapetl and Other Volcanoes of Mexico and Central America. + + +Mexico is very largely a vast table-land, rising through much of its +extent to an elevation of from 7,000 to 8,000 feet above sea-level, and +bounded east and west by wide strips of torrid lowlands adjoining the +oceans. It is crossed at about 19 degrees north latitude by a range of +volcanic mountains, running in almost a straight line east and west, +upon which are several extinct volcanic cones, and five active or +quiescent volcanoes. The highest of these is Popocatapetl, south of the +city of Mexico and nearly midway between the Atlantic and Pacific. + +East of this mountain lies Orizabo, little below it in height, and San +Martin or Tuxtla, 9,700 feet high, on the coast south of Vera Cruz. +West of it is Jorullo, 4,000 feet, and Colima, 12,800, near the Pacific +coast. The volcanic energy continues southward toward the Isthmus, +but decreases north of this volcanic range. These mountains have shown +little signs of activity in recent times. Popocatapetl emits smoke, but +there is no record of an eruption since 1540. Orizabo has been quiet +since 1566. Tuxtla had a violent eruption in 1793, but since then has +remained quiescent. Colima is the only one now active. For ten years +past it has been emitting ashes and smoke. The most remarkable of these +volcanoes is Jorullo, which closely resembled Monte Nuovo, described in +Chapter XIII., in its mode of origin. + +Popocatapetl, the hill that smokes, in the Mexican language, the huge +mountain clothed in eternal snows, and regarded by the idolaters of old +as a god, towers up nearly 18,000 feet above the level of the sea, and +in the days of the conquest of Mexico was a volcano in a state of fierce +activity. It was looked upon by the natives with a strange dread, and +they told the white strangers with awe that no man could attempt to +ascend its slopes and yet live; but, from a feeling of vanity, or the +love of adventure, the Spaniards laughed at these fears, and accordingly +a party of ten of the followers of Cortes commenced the ascent, +accompanied by a few Indians. But these latter, after ascending about +13,000 feet to where the last remains of stunted vegetation existed, +became alarmed at the subterranean bellowings of the volcano, and +returned, while the Spaniards still painfully toiled on through +the rarefied atmosphere, their feet crushing over the scoriae and +black-glazed volcanic sand, until they stood in the region of perpetual +snow, amidst the glittering, treacherous glaciers and crevasses, with +vast slippery-pathed precipices yawning round. + +Still they toiled on in this wild and wondrous region. A few hours +before they were in a land of perpetual summer; here all was snow. They +suffered the usual distress awarded to those who dare to ascend to these +solitudes of nature but it was not given to them to achieve the summit, +for suddenly, at a higher elevation, after listening to various ominous +threatenings from the interior of the volcano, they encountered so +fierce a storm of smoke, cinders, and sparks, that they were driven back +half suffocated to the lower portions of the mountain. + +Some time after another attempt was made; and upon this occasion with +a definite object. The invaders had nearly exhausted their stock of +gunpowder, and Cortes organized a party to ascend to the crater of the +volcano, to seek and bring down sulphur for the manufacture of this +necessary of warfare. This time the party numbered but five, led by +one Francisco Montano; and they experienced no very great difficulty in +winning their way upwards. The region of verdure gave place to the wild, +lava-strewn slope, which was succeeded in its turn by the treacherous +glaciers; and at last the gallant little band stood at the very edge +of the crater, a vast depression of over a league in circumference, and +1,000 feet in depth. + + +SULPHUR FROM THE CRATER + + +Flame was issuing from the hideous abysses, and the stoutest man’s heart +must have quailed as he peered down into the dim, mysterious cavity to +where the sloping sides were crusted with bright yellow sulphur, and +listened to the mutterings which warned him of the pent-up wrath and +power of the mighty volcano. They knew that at any moment flame and +stifling sulphurous vapor might be belched forth, but now no cowardice +was shown. They had come provided with ropes and baskets, and it only +remained to see who should descend. Lots were therefore drawn, and +it fell to Montano, who was accordingly lowered by his followers in a +basket 400 feet into the treacherous region of eternal fires. + +The basket swayed and the rope quivered and vibrated, but the brave +cavalier sturdily held to his task, disdaining to show fear before his +humble companions. The lurid light from beneath flashed upon his tanned +features, and a sulphurous steam rose slowly and condensed upon the +sides; but, whatever were his thoughts, the Spaniard collected as +much sulphur as he could take up with him, breaking off the bright +incrustations, and even dallying with his task as if in contempt of +the danger, till he had leisurely filed his basket, when the signal was +given and he was drawn up. The basket was emptied, and then he once more +descended into the lurid crater, collected another store and was again +drawn up; but far from shrinking from his task, he descended again +several times, till a sufficiency had been obtained, with which the +party descended to the plain. + + +THE VOLCANO JORULLO + + +No further back than the middle of the eighteenth century the site of +Jorullo was a level plain, including several highly-cultivated fields, +which formed the farm of Don Pedro di Jorullo. The plain was watered +by two small rivers, called Cuitimba and San Pedro, and was bounded by +mountains composed of basalt--the only indications of former volcanic +action. These fields were well irrigated, and among the most fertile in +the country, producing abundant crops of sugar-cane and indigo. + +In the month of June, 1759, the cultivators of the farm began to +be disturbed by strange subterranean noises of an alarming kind, +accompanied by frequent shocks of earthquake, which continued for nearly +a couple of months; but they afterward entirely ceased, so that the +inhabitants of the place were lulled into security. On the night between +the 28th and 29th of September, however, the subterranean noises +were renewed with greater loudness than before, and the ground shook +severely. The Indian servants living on the place started from their +beds in terror, and fled to the neighboring mountains. Thence gazing +upon their master’s farm they beheld it, along with a tract of ground +measuring between three and four square miles, in the midst of which it +stood, rise up bodily, as if it had been inflated from beneath like a +bladder. At the edges this tract was uplifted only about 39 feet above +the original surface, but so great was its convexity that toward the +middle it attained a height of no less than 524 feet. + +The Indians who beheld this strange phenomenon declared that they saw +flames issuing from several parts of this elevated tract, that the +entire surface became agitated like a stormy sea, that great clouds +of ashes, illuminated by volcanic fires glowing beneath them, rose at +several points, and that white-hot stones were thrown to an immense +height. Vast chasms were at the same time opened in the ground, and +into these the two small rivers above mentioned plunged. Their waters, +instead of extinguishing the subterranean conflagration, seemed only +to add to its intensity. Quantities of mud, enveloping balls of basalt, +were then thrown up, and the surface of the elevated ground became +studded with small cones, from which volumes of dense vapor, chiefly +steam, were emitted, some of the jets rising from 20 to 30 feet in +height. + +These cones the Indians called ovens, and in many of them was long heard +a subterranean noise resembling that of water briskly boiling. Out of a +great chasm in the midst of those ovens there were thrown up six larger +elevations, the highest being 1,640 feet above the level of the plain, +4,315 above sea level, and now constituting the principal volcano of +Jorullo. The smallest of the six was 300 feet in height; the others of +intermediate elevation. The highest of these hills had on its summit +a regular volcanic crater, whence there have been thrown up great +quantities of dross and lava, containing fragments of older rocks. The +ashes were transported to immense distances, some of them having fallen +on the houses at Queretaro, more than forty-eight leagues from Jorullo. +The volcano continued in this energetic state of activity for about four +months; in the following years its eruptions became less frequent, but +it still continues to emit volumes of vapor from the principal crater, +as well as from many of the ovens in the upheaved ground. + + +EFFECT ON THE RIVERS + + +The two rivers, which disappeared on the first night of this great +eruption, now pursue an underground course for about a mile and a +quarter, and then reappear as hot springs, with a temperature of 126 +degrees F. + +This wonderful volcanic upheaval is all the more remarkable, from the +inland situation of the plain on which it occurred, it being no less +than 120 miles distant from the nearest ocean, while there is no other +volcano nearer to it than 80 miles. The activity of the ovens has now +ceased, and portions of the upheaved plain on which they are situated +have again been brought under cultivation, and the volcano is in a state +of quiescence. + +The crater of Popocatapetl, which towers to a height of 17,000 feet, is +a vast circular basin, whose nearly vertical walls are in some parts +of a pale rose tint, in others quite black. The bottom contains several +small fuming cones, whence arise vapors of changeable color, being +successively red, yellow and white. All round them are large deposits of +sulphur, which are worked for mercantile purposes. + +Orizaba has a little less lofty snow-clad peak. This mountain was in +brisk volcanic activity from 1545 to 1560, but has since then relapsed +into a prolonged repose. It was climbed, in 1856, by Baron Muller, to +whose mind the crater appeared like the entrance to a lower world of +horrible darkness. He was struck with astonishment on contemplating the +tremendous forces required to elevate and rend such enormous masses--to +melt them, and then pile them up like towers, until by cooling they +became consolidated into their present forms. The internal walls of the +crater are in many places coated with sulphur, and at the bottom are +several small volcanic craters. At the time of his visit the summit +was wholly covered with snow, but the Indians affirmed that hot vapors +occasionally ascend from fissures in the rocks. Since then others have +reached its summit, among them Angelo Heilprin, the first to gaze into +the crater of Mont Pelee after its eruption. + + +ERUPTIONS IN NICARAGUA + + +On the 14th of November, 1867, there commenced an eruption from a +mountain about eight leagues to the eastward of the city of Leon, +in Nicaragua. This mountain does not appear to have been previously +recognized as an active volcano, but it is situated in a very volcanic +country. The outburst had probably some connection with the earthquake +at St. Thomas, which took place on the 18th of November following. The +mountain continued in a state of activity for about sixteen days. There +was thrown out an immense quantity of black sand, which was carried as +far as to the coast of the Pacific, fifty miles distant. Glowing stones +were projected from the crater to an estimated height of three thousand +feet. + +Central America is more prolific of volcanoes than Mexico, and the +State of Guatemala in particular. One authority credits this State with +fifteen or sixteen and another with more than thirty volcanic cones. +Of these at least five are decidedly active. Tajumalco, which was in +eruption at the time of the great earthquake of 1863, yields great +quantities of sulphur, as also does Quesaltenango. The most famous is +the Volcan de Agua (Water Volcano), so called from its overwhelming the +old city of Guatemala with a torrent of water in 1541. + +Nicaragua is also rich in volcanoes, being traversed its entire length +by a remarkable chain of isolated volcanic cones, several of which are +to some extent active. We have already told the story of the tremendous +eruption of Coseguina in 1835, one of the most violent of modern times. +The latest important eruption here was that of Ometepec, a volcanic +mount on an island of the same name in Lake Nicaragua. This broke a long +period of repose on June 19, 1883, with a severe eruption, in which +the lava, pouring from a new crater, in seven days overflowed the whole +island and drove off its population. Incessant rumblings and earthquake +shocks accompanied the eruption, and mud, ashes, stones and lava covered +the mountain slopes, which had been cultivated for many centuries. +These were the most recent strong displays of volcanic energy in Central +America, though former great outflows of lava are indicated by great +fields of barren rock, which extend for miles. + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +The Terrible Eruption of Krakatoa. + + +The most destructive volcanic explosion of recent times, one perhaps +unequalled in violence in all times, was that of the small mountain +island of Krakatoa, in the East Indian Archipelago, in 1883. This made +its effects felt round the entire globe, and excited such wide attention +that we feel called upon to give it a chapter of its own. + +The island of Krakatoa lies in the Straits of Sunda, between Java and +Sumatra. In size it is insignificant, and had been silent so long that +its volcanic character was almost lost sight of. Of its early history we +know nothing. At some remote time in the past it may have appeared as a +large cone, of some twenty-five miles in circumference at base and not +less than 10,000 feet high. Then, still in unknown times, its cone was +blown away by internal forces, leaving only a shattered and irregular +crater ring. This crater was two or three miles in diameter, while the +highest part of its walls rose only a few hundred feet above the sea. +Later volcanic work built up a number of small cones within the crater, +and still later a new cone, called Rakata, rose on the edge of the old +one to a height of 2,623 feet. + +The first known event in the history of the island volcano was an +eruption in the year 1680. After that it lay in repose, forming a group +of islands, one much larger than the others. Some of the smaller islands +indicated the rim of the old crater, much of which was buried under the +sea. Its state of quiescence continued for two centuries, a tropical +vegetation richly mantled the island, and to all appearance it had sunk +permanently to rest. + +Indications of a coming change appeared in 1880, in the form of +earthquakes, which shook all the region around. These continued at +intervals for more that two years. Then, on May 20, 1883, there were +heard at Batavia, a hundred miles away, “booming sounds like the firing +of artillery.” Next day the captain of a vessel passing through the +Straits saw that Krakatoa was in eruption, sending up clouds of smoke +and showers of dust and pumice. The smoke was estimated to reach a +height of seven miles, while the volcanic dust drifted to localities 300 +miles away. + + +AWFUL PREMONITIONS + + +The mountain continued to play for about fourteen weeks with varying +activity, several parties meanwhile visiting it and making observations. +Such an eruption, in ordinary cases, would have ultimately died away, +with no marked change other than perhaps the ejection of a stream of +lava. But such was not now the case. The sequel was at once unexpected +and terrible. As the island was uninhabited, no one actually saw what +took place, those nearest to the scene of the eruption having enough +to do to save their own lives, while the dense clouds of vapor and dust +baffled observation. + +The phase of greatest violence set in on Sunday, August 26th. Soon after +midday sailors on passing ships saw that the island had vanished behind +a dense cloud of black vapor, the height of which was estimated at not +less than seventeen miles. At intervals frightful detonations resounded, +and after a time a rain of pumice began to fall at places ten miles +distant. For miles round fierce flashes of lightning rent the vapor, +and at a distance of fully forty miles ghostly corposants gleamed on the +rigging of a vessel. + +These phenomena grew more and more alarming until August 27th, when four +explosions of fearful intensity shook earth and sea and air, the third +being “far the most violent and productive of the most widespread +results.” It was, in fact, perhaps the most tremendous volcanic +outburst, in its intensity, known in human history. It seemed to +overcome the obstruction to the energy of the internal forces, for the +eruption now declined, and in a day or two practically died away, though +one or two comparatively insignificant outbursts took place later. + + +FAR-REACHING DESTRUCTION + + +The eruption spread ruin and death over many surrounding leagues. At +Krakotoa itself, when men once more reached its shores, everything was +found to be changed. About two-thirds of the main island were blown +completely away. The marginal cone was cut nearly in half vertically, +the new cliff falling precipitously toward the centre of the crater. +Where land had been before now sea existed, in some places more than +one hundred feet deep. But the part of the island that remained had been +somewhat increased in size by ejected materials. + +Of the other islands and islets some had disappeared; some were +partially destroyed; some were enlarged by fallen debris, while many +changes had taken place in the depth of the neighboring sea-bed. Two +new islands, Steers and Calmeyer, were formed. The ejected pumice, so +cavernous in structure as to float upon the water, at places formed +great floating islands which covered the sea for miles, and sometimes +rose from four to seven feet above it, proving a serious obstacle +to navigation. On vessels near by dust fell to the depth of eighteen +inches. The enormous clouds of volcanic dust which had been flung high +into the air darkened the sky for a great area around. At Batavia, about +a hundred miles from the volcano, it produced an effect not unlike that +of a London fog. This began about seven in the morning of August 27th. +Soon after ten the light had become lurid and yellow, and lamps were +required in the houses; then came a downfall of rain, mingled with dust, +and by about half-past eleven the town was in complete darkness. It +soon after began to lighten, and the rain to diminish, and about three +o’clock it had ceased. + +At Buitenzorg, twenty miles further away, the conditions were similar, +but lasted for a shorter time. In places much farther away the upper sky +presented a strangely murky aspect, and the sun assumed a green color. +Phenomena of this kind were traced over a broad area of the globe, even +as far as the Hawaiian Islands, while over a yet wider area the sky +after sunset was lit up by after-glows of extraordinary beauty. The +height to which the dust was projected has been calculated from various +data, with the result that 121,500 feet, or nearly 25 miles, is thought +to be a probable maximum estimate, though it may be that occasional +fragments of larger size were shot up to a still greater height. + + +A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF THE ERUPTION + + +Another effect, of a distressing character, followed the eruption. A +succession of enormous waves, emanating from Krakatoa, traversed the +sea, and swept the coast bordering the Straits of Sunda with such force +as to destroy many villages on the low-lying shores in Java, Sumatra and +other islands. Some buildings at a height of fifty feet above sea-level +were washed away, and in some places the water rose higher, in one place +reaching the height of 115 feet. At Telok Betong, in Sumatra, a ship was +carried inland a distance of nearly two miles, and left stranded at a +height of thirty feet above the sea. + +The eruption of Krakatoa seems to have been due to some deep-lying +causes of extraordinary violence, this appearing not only in the +terrible explosion which tore the island to fragments and sent its +remnants as floating dust many miles high into the air, but also from an +internal convulsion that affected many of the volcanoes of Java, which +almost simultaneously broke into violent eruption. We extract from +Dr. Robert Bonney’s “Our Earth and its Story” a description of these +closely-related events. + +“The disturbances originated on the island of Krakatoa, with eruptions +of red hot stones and ashes, and by noon next day Semeru, the largest of +the Javanese volcanoes, was reported to be belching forth flames at +an alarming rate. The eruption soon spread to Gunung Guntur and other +mountains, until more than a third of the forty-five craters of Java +were either in activity or seriously threatening it. + +“Just before dusk a great cloud hung over Gunung Guntur, and the crater +of the volcano began to emit enormous streams of white sulphurous +mud and lava, which were rapidly succeeded by explosions, followed by +tremendous showers of cinders and enormous fragments of rock, which were +hurled high into the air and scattered in all directions, carrying death +and destruction with them. The overhanging clouds were, moreover, so +charged with electricity that water-spouts added to the horror of the +scene. The eruption continued all Saturday night, and next day a dense +cloud, shot with lurid red, gathered over the Kedang range, intimating +that an eruption had broken out there. + +“This proved to be the case, for soon after streams of lava poured down +the mountain sides into the valleys, sweeping everything before them. +About two o’clock on Monday morning--we are drawing on the account of +an eye-witness--the great cloud suddenly broke into small sections and +vanished. When light came it was seen that an enormous tract of land, +extending from Point Capucin on the south, and Negery Passoerang on the +north and west, to the lowest point, covering about fifty square miles, +had been temporarily submerged by the ‘tidal wave.’ Here were situated +the villages of Negery and Negery Babawang. Few of the inhabitants of +these places escaped death. This section of the island was less +densely populated than the other portions, and the loss of life was +comparatively small, although it must have aggregated several thousands. +The waters of Welcome Bay in the Sunda Straits, Pepper Bay on the east, +and the Indian Ocean on the south, had rushed in and formed a sea of +turbulent waves. + + +DETONATIONS HEARD FOR MANY MILES AWAY + + +“On Monday night the volcano of Papandayang was in an active state of +paroxysmal eruption, accompanied by detonations which are said to have +been heard for many miles away. In Sumatra three distinct columns of +flame were seen to rise from a mountain to a vast height, and its whole +surface was soon covered with fiery lava streams, which spread to +great distances on all sides. Stones fell for miles around, and black +fragmentary matter carried into the air caused total darkness. A +whirlwind accompanied the eruption, by which house-roofs, trees, men, +and horses were swept into the air. The quantity of matter ejected was +such as to cover the ground and the roofs of the houses at Denamo to +the depth of several inches. Suddenly the scene changed. At first it was +reported that Papandayang had been split into seven distinct peaks. This +proved untrue; but in the open seams formed could be seen great balls of +molten matter. From the fissures poured forth clouds of steam and black +lava, which, flowing in steady streams, ran slowly down the mountain +sides, forming beds 200 or 300 feet in extent. At the entrance to +Batavia was a large group of houses extending along the shore, and +occupied by Chinamen. This portion of the city was entirely destroyed, +and not many of the Chinese who lived on the swampy plains managed to +save their lives. They stuck to their homes till the waves came and +washed them away, fearing torrents of flame and lava more than torrents +of water. + +“Of the 3,500 Europeans and Americans in Batavia--which for several +hours was in darkness, owing to the fall of ashes--800 perished at +Anjer. The European and American quarter was first overwhelmed by rocks, +mud and lava from the crater, and then the waters came up and swallowed +the ruins, leaving nothing to mark the site, and causing the loss of +about 200 lives of the inhabitants and those who sought refuge there.” + +The loss of life above mentioned was but a small fraction of the total +loss. All along the coasts of the adjoining large islands towns and +villages were swept away and their inhabitants drowned, till the total +loss was, as nearly as could be estimated, 36,000 souls. Krakatoa thus +surpassed Mont Pelee in its tale of destruction. These two, indeed, have +been the most destructive to life of known volcanic explosions, since +the volcano usually falls far short of the earthquake in its murderous +results. + +The distant effects of this explosion were as remarkable as the near +ones. The concussion of the air reached to an unprecedented distance +and the clouds of floating dust encircled the earth, producing striking +phenomena of which an account is given at the end of this chapter. + +The rapidity with which the effects of the Krakatoa eruption made +themselves evident in all parts of the earth is perhaps the most +remarkable outcome of this extraordinary event. The floating pumice +reached the harbor of St. Paul on the 22nd of March, 1884, after having +made a voyage of some two hundred and sixty days at a rate of +six-tenths of a mile an hour. Immense quantities of pumice of a similar +description, and believed to have been derived from the same source, +reached Tamatave in Madagascar five months later, and no doubt much of +it long continued to float round the world. + + +SERIES OF ATMOSPHERIC WAVES + + +Another result of the eruption was the series of atmospheric waves, +caused by the disturbance in the atmosphere, which affected the +barometer over the entire world. The velocity with which these waves +traveled has been variously estimated at from 912.09 feet to 1066.29 +feet per second. This speed is, of course, very much inferior to that at +which sound travels through the air. Yet, in three distinct cases, the +noise of the Krakatoa explosions was plainly heard at a distance of at +least 2,200 miles, and in one instance--that recorded from Rodriguez--of +nearly 3,000. The sound travelled to Ceylon, Burmah, Manila, New Guinea +and Western Australia, places, however, within a radius of about 2,000 +miles; out Diego Garcia lies outside that area, and Rodriguez a thousand +miles beyond it. Six days subsequent to the explosion, after the +atmospheric waves had traveled four times round the globe, the barometer +was still affected by them. + +Another result, similar in kind, was the extraordinary dissemination of +the great ocean wave, which in a like manner seems to have encircled the +earth, since high waves, without evident cause, appeared not only in +the Pacific, but at many places on the Atlantic coast within a few days +after the event. They were observed alike in England and at New York. +The writer happened to be at Atlantic City, on the New Jersey coast, +at this time. It was a period of calm, the winds being at rest, but, +unheralded, there came in an ocean wave of such height as to sweep away +the ocean-front boardwalk and do much other damage. He ascribed this +strange wave at the time to the Krakatoa explosion, and is of the same +opinion still. + +In addition to the account given of this extraordinary volcanic event, +it seems desirable to give Sir Robert S. Ball’s description of it in his +recent work, “The Earth’s Beginnings.” While repeating to some +extent what we have already said, it is worthy, from its freshness of +description and general readability, of a place here. + + +SIR ROBERT S. BALL’S DESCRIPTION + + +“Until the year 1883 few had ever heard of Krakatoa. It was unknown +to fame, as are hundreds of other gems of glorious vegetation set +in tropical waters. It was not inhabited, but the natives from the +surrounding shores of Sumatra and Java used occasionally to draw their +canoes up on its beach, while they roamed through the jungle in search +of the wild fruits that there abounded. It was known to the mariner who +navigated the Straits of Sunda, for it was marked on his charts as one +of the perils of the intricate navigation in those waters. It was no +doubt recorded that the locality had been once, or more than once, +the seat of an active volcano. In fact, the island seemed to owe its +existence to some frightful eruption of by-gone days; but for a couple +of centuries there had been no fresh outbreak. It almost seemed as if +Krakatoa might be regarded as a volcano that had become extinct. In this +respect it would only be like many other similar objects all over the +globe, or like the countless extinct volcanoes all over the moon. + +“As the summer of 1883 advanced the vigor of Krakatoa, which had sprung +into notoriety at the beginning of the year, steadily increased and the +noises became more and more vehement; these were presently audible on +shores ten miles distant, and then twenty miles distant; and still those +noises waxed louder and louder, until the great thunders of the volcano, +now so rapidly developing, astonished the inhabitants that dwelt over an +area at least as large as Great Britain. And there were other symptoms +of the approaching catastrophe. With each successive convulsion a +quantity of fine dust was projected aloft into the clouds. The wind +could not carry this dust away as rapidly as it was hurled upward by +Krakatoa, and accordingly the atmosphere became heavily charged with +suspended particles. + +“A pall of darkness thus hung over the adjoining seas and islands. Such +was the thickness and density of these atmospheric volumes of Krakatoa +dust that, for a hundred miles around, the darkness of midnight +prevailed at midday. Then the awful tragedy of Krakatoa took place. +Many thousands of the unfortunate inhabitants of the adjacent shores of +Sumatra and Java were destined never to behold the sun again. They were +presently swept away to destruction in an invasion of the shore by the +tremendous waves with which the seas surrounding Krakatoa were agitated. + +“As the days of August passed by the spasms of Krakatoa waxed more and +more vehement. By the middle of that month the panic was widespread, for +the supreme catastrophe was at hand. On the night of Sunday, August 26, +1883, the blackness of the dust-clouds, now much thicker than ever in +the Straits of Sunda and adjacent parts of Sumatra and Java, was only +occasionally illumined by lurid flashes from the volcano. + +“At the town of Batavia, a hundred miles distant, there was no quiet +that night. The houses trembled with subterranean violence, and the +windows rattled as if heavy artillery were being discharged in the +streets. And still these efforts seemed to be only rehearsing for the +supreme display. By ten o’clock on the morning of Monday, August 27, +1883, the rehearsals were over, and the performance began. An overture, +consisting of two or three introductory explosions, was succeeded by +a frightful convulsion which tore away a large part of the island of +Krakatoa and scattered it to the winds of heaven. In that final outburst +all records of previous explosions on this earth were completely broken. + + +AN EXTRAORDINARY NOISE + + +“This supreme effort it was which produced the mightiest noise that, so +far as we can ascertain, has ever been heard on this globe. It must have +been indeed a loud noise which could travel from Krakatoa to Batavia and +preserve its vehemence over so great a distance; but we should form a +very inadequate conception of the energy of the eruption of Krakatoa if +we thought that its sounds were heard by those merely a hundred miles +off. This would be little indeed compared with what is recorded on +testimony which it is impossible to doubt. + +“Westward from Krakatoa stretches the wide expanse of the Indian Ocean. +On the opposite side from the Straits of Sunda lies the island of +Rodriguez, the distance from Krakatoa being almost three thousand miles. +It has been proved by evidence which cannot be doubted that the +thunders of the great volcano attracted the attention of an intelligent +coast-guard on Rodriguez, who carefully noted the character of the +sounds and the time of their occurrence. He had heard them just four +hours after the actual explosion, for this is the time the sound +occupied on its journey. + + +A CONSTANT WIND + + +“This mighty incident at Krakatoa has taught us other lessons on the +constitution of our atmosphere. We previously knew little, or I might +say almost nothing, as to the conditions prevailing above the height +of ten miles overhead. It was Krakatoa which first gave us a little +information which was greatly wanted. How could we learn what winds were +blowing at a height four times as great as the loftiest mountain on the +earth, and twice as great as the loftiest altitude to which a balloon +has ever soared? No doubt a straw will show which way the wind blows, +but there are no straws up there. There was nothing to render the winds +perceptible until Krakatoa came to our aid. Krakatoa drove into those +winds prodigious quantities of dust. Hundreds of cubic miles of air were +thus deprived of that invisibility which they had hitherto maintained. + +“With eyes full of astonishment men watched those vast volumes of +Krakatoa dust on a tremendous journey. Of course, every one knows the +so-called trade-winds on our earth’s surface, which blow steadily in +fixed directions, and which are of such service to the mariner. But +there is yet another constant wind. It was first disclosed by Krakatoa. +Before the occurrence of that eruption, no one had the slightest +suspicion that far up aloft, twenty miles over our heads, a mighty +tempest is incessantly hurrying, with a speed much greater than that of +the awful hurricane which once laid so large a part of Calcutta on the +ground and slew so many of its inhabitants. Fortunately for humanity, +this new trade-wind does not come within less than twenty miles of the +earth’s surface. We are thus preserved from the fearful destruction that +its unintermittent blasts would produce, blasts against which no tree +could stand and which would, in ten minutes, do as much damage to a city +as would the most violent earthquake. When this great wind had become +charged with the dust of Krakatoa, then, for the first, and, I may add, +for the only time, it stood revealed to human vision. Then it was seen +that this wind circled round the earth in the vicinity of the equator, +and completed its circuit in about thirteen days. + + +A VAST CLOUD Of DUST + + +“The dust manufactured by the supreme convulsion was whirled round +the earth in the mighty atmospheric current into which the volcano +discharged it. As the dust-cloud was swept along by this incomparable +hurricane it showed its presence in the most glorious manner by decking +the sun and the moon in hues of unaccustomed splendor and beauty. The +blue color in the sky under ordinary circumstances is due to particles +in the air, and when the ordinary motes of the sunbeam were reinforced +by the introduction of the myriads of motes produced by Krakatoa even +the sun itself sometimes showed a blue tint. Thus the progress of the +great dust-cloud was traced out by the extraordinary sky effects it +produced, and from the progress of the dust-cloud we inferred the +movements of the invisible air current which carried it along. Nor need +it be thought that the quantity of material projected from Krakatoa +should have been inadequate to produce effects of this world-wide +description. Imagine that the material which was blown to the winds of +heaven by the supreme convulsion of Krakatoa could be all recovered and +swept into one vast heap. Imagine that the heap were to have its bulk +measured by a vessel consisting of a cube one mile long, one mile broad +and one mile deep; it has been estimated that even this prodigious +vessel would have to be filled to the brim at least ten times before all +the products of Krakatoa had been measured.” + +It is not specially to the quantity of material ejected from Krakatoa +that it owes its reputation. Great as it was, it has been much +surpassed. Professor Judd says that the great eruptions of +Papapandayang, in Java, in 1772, of Skaptur Jokull, in Iceland, in 1783, +and of Tamboro, in Sumbawa, in 1815, were marked by the extrusion of +much larger quantities of material. The special feature of the Krakatoa +eruption was its extreme violence, which flung volcanic dust to a height +probably never before attained, and produced sea and air waves of an +intensity unparalleled in the records of volcanic action. Judd thinks +this was due to the situation of the crater, and the possible inflow +through fissures of a great volume of sea water to the interior lava, +the result being the sudden production of an enormous volume of steam. + + +EXTRAORDINARY RED SUNSETS + + +The red sunsets spoken of above were so extraordinary in character +that a fuller description of them seems advisable. A remarkable fact +concerning them is the great rapidity with which they were disseminated +to distant regions of the earth. They appeared around the entire +equatorial zone in a few days after the eruption, this doubtless being +due to the great rapidity with which the volcanic dust was carried by +the upper air current. They were seen at Rodriguez, 3,000 miles away, on +August 28, and within a week in every part of the torrid zone. From +this zone they spread north and south with less rapidity. Their first +appearance in Australia was on September 15th, and at the Cape of Good +Hope on the 20th. On the latter day they were observed in California and +the Southern United States. They were first seen in England on November +9th. Elsewhere in Europe and the United States they appeared from +November 20th to 30th. + +The effect lasted in some instances as long as an hour and +three-quarters after sunset. In India the sun and skies assumed a +greenish hue, and there was much curiosity regarding the cause of the +“green sun.” Another remarkable phenomenon of this period was the great +prevalence of rain during the succeeding winter. This probably was due +to the same cause; that is, to the fact of the air being so filled with +dust; the prevailing theory in regard to rain being that the existence +of dust in the air is necessary to its fall. The vapor of the air +concentrates into drops around such minute particles, the result being +that where dust is absent rain cannot fall. + +As regards the sunsets spoken of, there are three similar instances on +record. The first of these was in the year 526, when a dry fog covered +the Roman Empire with a red haze. Nothing further is known concerning +it. The other instances were in the years 1783 and 1831. The former of +these has been traced to the great eruption of Skaptur Jokull in that +year. It lasted for several months as a pale blue haze, and occasioned +so much obscurity that the sun was only visible when twelve degrees +above the horizon, and then it had a blood-red appearance. Violent +thunderstorms were associated with it, thus assimilating it with that of +1883. Alike in 1783 and 1831 there was a pearly, phosphorescent gleam in +the atmosphere, by which small print could be read at midnight. We know +nothing regarding the meteorological conditions of 1831. + +The red sunsets of 1883 were remarkable for their long persistence. +They were observed in the autumn of 1884 with almost their original +brilliancy, and they were still visible in 1885, being seen at +intervals, as if the dust was then distributed in patches, and driven +about by the winds. In fact, similar sunsets were occasionally visible +for several years afterwards. These may well have been due to the same +cause, when we consider with what extreme slowness very fine dust makes +its way through the air, and how much it may be affected by the winds. + + +THE RED SUNSETS DESCRIBED + + +One writer describes the appearance of these sunsets in the following +terms: “Immediately after sunset a patch of white light appeared ten +or fifteen degrees above the horizon, and shone for ten minutes with a +pearly lustre. Beneath it a layer of bright red rested on the horizon, +melting upward into orange, and this passed into yellow light, which +spread around the lucid spot. Next the white light grew of a rosy tint, +and soon became an intense rose hue. A vivid golden oriole yellow strip +divided it from the red fringe below and the rose red above.” This +description, although exaggerated, represents the general conditions of +the phenomenon. + +On October 20th, 1884, the author observed the sunset effect as follows: +“Immediately after the sun had set, a broad cone of silvery lustre +rested upon a horizon of smoky pink. After fifteen minutes the white +became rose color above and yellowish below, deepening to lemon color, +and finally into reddish tint, while the rose faded out. The whole cone +gradually sank and died away in the brownish red flush on the horizon, +more than an hour after sunset.” The time of duration varied, since, +on the succeeding evening, it lasted only a half-hour. These sunset +effects, if we can justly attribute them all to the Krakatoa eruption, +were extraordinary not alone for their intensity and beauty but for +their extended duration, the influence of this remarkable volcanic +outbreak being visible for several years after the event. + +Though no doubt is entertained concerning the cause of the red sunset +effects of 1783 and 1883, that of 1831 is not so readily explained, +there having been no known volcanic explosion of great intensity in that +year. But in view of the fact that volcanoes exist in unvisited parts +of the earth, some of which may have been at work unknown to scientific +man, this difficulty is not insuperable. Possibly Mounts Erebus or +Terror, the burning mountains of the Antarctic zone, may, unseen by +man, have prepared for civilized lands this grand spectacular effect of +Nature’s doings. + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +Mount Pelee and its Harvest of Death. + + +St. Pierre, the principal city of the French island of Martinique, in +the West Indies, lies for the length of about a mile along the island +coast, with high cliffs hemming it in, its houses climbing the slope, +tier upon tier. At one place where a river breaks through the cliffs, +the city creeps further up towards the mountains. As seen from the bay, +its appearance is picturesque and charming, with the soft tints of its +tiles, the grey of its walls, the clumps of verdure in its midst, +and the wall of green in the rear. Seen from its streets this beauty +disappears, and the chief attraction of the town is gone. + +Back from the three miles of hills which sweep in an arc round the town, +is the noble Montagne Pelee lying several miles to the north of the +city, a mass of dark rock some four thousand feet high, with jagged +outline, and cleft with gorges and ravines, down which flow numerous +streams, gushing from the crater lake of the great volcano. + +Though known to be a volcano, it was looked upon as practically extinct, +though as late as August, 1856, it had been in eruption. No lava at that +time came from its crater, but it hurled out great quantities of ashes +and mud, with strong sulphurous odor. Then it went to rest again, and +slept till 1902. + +The people had long ceased to fear it. No one expected that grand old +Mount Pelee, the slumbering (so it was thought) tranquil old hill, would +ever spurt forth fire and death. This was entirely unlooked for. Mont +Pelee was regarded by the natives as a sort of protector; they had an +almost superstitious affection for it. From the outskirts of the city it +rose gradually, its sides grown thick with rich grass, and dotted here +and there with spreading shrubbery and drooping trees. There was +no pleasanter outing for an afternoon than a journey up the green, +velvet-like sides of the towering mountain and a view of the quaint, +picturesque city slumbering at its base. + + +A PEACEFUL SCENE + + +There were no rocky cliffs, no crags, no protruding boulders. The +mountain was peace itself. It seemed to promise perpetual protection. +The poetic natives relied upon it to keep back storms from the land and +frighten, with its stern brow, the tempests from the sea. They pointed +to it with profoundest pride as one of the most beautiful mountains in +the world. + +Children played in its bowers and arbors; families picnicked there day +after day during the balmy weather; hundreds of tourists ascended to +the summit and looked with pleasure at the beautiful crystal lake +which sparkled and glinted in the sunshine. Mont Pelee was the place +of enjoyment of the people of St. Pierre. I can hear the placid natives +say: “Old Father Pelee is our protector--not our destroyer.” + +Not until two weeks before the eruption did the slumbering mountain +show signs of waking to death and disaster. On the 23d of April it first +displayed symptoms of internal disquiet. A great column of smoke began +to rise from it, and was accompanied from time to time by showers of +ashes and cinders. + +Despite these signals, there was nothing until Monday, May 5th, to +indicate actual danger. On that day a stream of smoking mud and lava +burst through the top of the crater and plunged into the valley of +the River Blanche, overwhelming the Guerin sugar works and killing +twenty-three workmen and the son of the proprietor. Mr. Guerin’s was +one of the largest sugar works on the island; its destruction entailed +a heavy loss. The mud which overwhelmed it followed the beds of streams +towards the north of the island. + +The alarm in the city was great, but it was somewhat allayed by the +report of an expert commission appointed by the Governor, which decided +that the eruption was normal and that the city was in no peril. To +further allay the excitement, the Governor, with several scientists, +took up his residence in St. Pierre. He could not restrain the people +by force, but the moral effect of his presence and the decision of the +scientists had a similar disastrous result. + + +A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION BY A SUFFERER. + + +The existing state of affairs during these few waiting days is so +graphically given in a letter from Mrs. Thomas T. Prentis, wife of the +United States Consul at St. Pierre, to her sister in Melrose, a suburban +city of Boston, that we quote it here: + +“My Dear Sister: This morning the whole population of the city is on the +alert and every eye is directed toward Mont Pelee, an extinct volcano. +Everybody is afraid that the volcano has taken into its heart to burst +forth and destroy the whole island. + +“Fifty years ago Mont Pelee burst forth with terrific force and +destroyed everything within a radius of several miles. For several days +the mountain has been bursting forth in flame and immense quantities of +lava are flowing down its sides. + +“All the inhabitants are going up to see it. There is not a horse to +be had on the island, those belonging to the natives being kept in +readiness to leave at a moment’s notice. + +“Last Wednesday, which was April 23d, I was in my room with little +Christine, and we heard three distinct shocks. They were so great that +we supposed at first that there was some one at the door, and Christine +went and found no one there. The first report was very loud, and the +second and third were so great that dishes were thrown from the shelves +and the house was rocked. + +“We can see Mont Pelee from the rear windows of our house, and although +it is fully four miles away, we can hear the roar of the fire and lava +issuing from it. + +“The city is covered with ashes and clouds of smoke have been over our +heads for the last five days. The smell of sulphur is so strong that +horses on the streets stop and snort, and some of them are obliged to +give up, drop in their harness and die from suffocation. Many of the +people are obliged to wear wet handkerchiefs over their faces to protect +them from the fumes of sulphur. + +“My husband assures me that there is no immediate danger, and when there +is the least particle of danger we will leave the place. There is an +American schooner, the R. F. Morse, in the harbor, and she will remain +here for at least two weeks. If the volcano becomes very bad we shall +embark at once and go out to sea. The papers in this city are asking +if we are going to experience another earthquake similar to that which +struck here some fifty years ago.” + + +THE FATEFUL EIGHTH OF MAY + + +The writer of this letter and her husband, Consul Prentis, trusted Mont +Pelee too long. They perished, with all the inhabitants of the city, in +a deadly flood of fire and ashes that descended on the devoted place +on the fateful morning of Thursday, May 8th. Only for the few who were +rescued from the ships in the harbor there would be scarcely a living +soul to tell that dread story of ruin and death. The most graphic +accounts are those given by rescued officers of the Roraima, one of the +fleet of the Quebec Steamship Co., trading with the West Indies. This +vessel had left the Island of Dominica for Martinique at midnight of +Wednesday, and reached St. Pierre about 7 o’clock Thursday morning. The +greatest difficulty was experienced in getting into port, the air being +thick with falling ashes and the darkness intense. The ship had to +grope its way to the anchorage. Appalling sounds were issuing from the +mountain behind the town, which was shrouded in darkness. The ashes were +falling thickly on the steamer’s deck, where the passengers and others +were gazing at the town, some being engaged in photographing the scene. + +The best way in which we can describe a scene of which few lived to tell +the story, is to give the narratives of a number of the survivors. +From their several stories a coherent idea of the terrible scene can +be formed. From the various accounts given of the terrible explosion +by officers of the Roraima, we select as a first example the following +description by Assistant Purser Thompson: + + +A TALE OF SUDDEN RUIN + + +“I saw St. Pierre destroyed. It was blotted out by one great flash of +fire. Nearly 40,000 persons were all killed at once. Out of eighteen +vessels lying in the roads only one, the British steamship Roddam, +escaped, and she, I hear, lost more than half on board. It was a dying +crew that took her out. + +“Our boat, the Roraima, of the Quebec Line, arrived at St. Pierre early +Thursday morning. For hours before we entered the roadstead we could see +flames and smoke rising from Mont Pelee. No one on board had any idea +of danger. Captain G. T. Muggah was on the bridge, and all hands got on +deck to see the show. + +“The spectacle was magnificent. As we approached St. Pierre we could +distinguish the rolling and leaping of the red flames that belched from +the mountain in huge volumes and gushed high in to the sky. Enormous +clouds of black smoke hung over the volcano. + +“When we anchored at St. Pierre I noticed the cable steamship Grappler, +the Roddam, three or four American schooners and a number of Italian and +Norwegian barks. The flames were then spurting straight up in the air, +now and then waving to one side or the other for a moment and again +leaping suddenly higher up. + +“There was a constant muffled roar. It was like the biggest oil refinery +in the world burning up on the mountain top. There was a tremendous +explosion about 7.45 o’clock, soon after we got in. The mountain was +blown to pieces. There was no warning. The side of the volcano was +ripped out, and there was hurled straight toward us a solid wall of +flame. It sounded like thousands of cannon. + +“The wave of fire was on us and over us like a lightning flash. It was +like a hurricane of fire. I saw it strike the cable steamship Grappler +broadside on and capsize her. From end to end she burst into flames and +then sank. The fire rolled in mass straight down upon St. Pierre and the +shipping. The town vanished before our eyes and the air grew stifling +hot, and we were in the thick of it. + +“Wherever the mass of fire struck the sea the water boiled and sent +up vast clouds of steam. The sea was torn into huge whirlpools that +careened toward the open sea. + +“One of these horrible hot whirlpools swung under the Roraima and pulled +her down on her beam ends with the suction. She careened way over to +port, and then the fire hurricane from the volcano smashed her, and over +she went on the opposite side. The fire wave swept off the masts and +smokestack as if they were cut with a knife. + + +HEAT CAUSED EXPLOSIONS + + +“Captain Muggah was the only one on deck not killed outright. He was +caught by the fire wave and terribly burned. He yelled to get up the +anchor, but, before two fathoms were heaved in the Roraima was almost +upset by the boiling whirlpool, and the fire wave had thrown her down on +her beam ends to starboard. Captain Muggah was overcome by the flames. +He fell unconscious from the bridge and toppled overboard. + +“The blast of fire from the volcano lasted only a few minutes. It +shriveled and set fire to everything it touched. Thousands of casks of +rum were stored in St. Pierre, and these were exploded by the terrific +heat. The burning rum ran in streams down every street and out to the +sea. This blazing rum set fire to the Roraima several times. Before the +volcano burst the landings of St. Pierre were crowded with people. After +the explosion not one living being was seen on land. Only twenty-five of +those on the Roraima out of sixty-eight were left after the first flash. + +“The French cruiser Suchet came in and took us off at 2 P. M. She +remained nearby, helping all she could, until 5 o’clock, then went to +Fort de France with all the people she had rescued. At that time it +looked as if the entire north end of the island was on fire.” + +C. C. Evans, of Montreal, and John G. Morris, of New York, who were +among those rescued, say the vessel arrived at 6 o’clock. As eight bells +were struck a frightful explosion was heard up the mountain. A cloud of +fire, toppling and roaring, swept with lightning speed down the mountain +side and over the town and bay. The Roraima was nearly sunk, and caught +fire at once. + +“I can never forget the horrid, fiery, choking whirlwind which enveloped +me,” said Mr. Evans. “Mr. Morris and I rushed below. We are not very +badly burned, not so bad as most of them. When the fire came we were +going to our posts (we are engineers) to weigh anchor and get out. When +we came up we found the ship afire aft, and fought it forward until 3 +o’clock, when the Suchet came to our rescue. We were then building a +raft.” + +“Ben” Benson, the carpenter of the Roraima, said: “I was on deck, +amidships, when I heard an explosion. The captain ordered me to up +anchor. I got to the windlass, but when the fire came I went into the +forecastle and got my ‘duds.’ When I came out I talked with Captain +Muggah, Mr. Scott, the first officer and others. They had been on the +bridge. The captain was horribly burned. He had inhaled flames and +wanted to jump into the sea. I tried to make him take a life-preserver. +The captain, who was undressed, jumped overboard and hung on to a line +for a while. Then he disappeared.” + + +THE COOPER’S STORY. + + +James Taylor, a cooper employed on the Roraima, gives the following +account of his experience of the disaster: + +“Hearing a tremendous report and seeing the ashes falling thicker, I +dived into a room, dragging with me Samuel Thomas, a gangway man and +fellow countryman, shutting the door tightly. Shortly after I heard a +voice, which I recognized as that of the chief mate, Mr. Scott. Opening +the door with great caution, I drew him in. The nose of Thomas was +burned by the intense heat. + +“We three and Thompson, the assistant purser, out of sixty-eight souls +on board, were the only persons who escaped practically uninjured. The +heat being unbearable, I emerged in a few moments, and the scene that +presented itself to my eyes baffles description. All around on the deck +were the dead and dying covered with boiling mud. There they lay, men, +women and little children, and the appeals of the latter for water were +heart-rending. When water was given them they could not swallow it, +owing to their throats being filled with ashes or burnt with the heated +air. + +“The ship was burning aft, and I jumped overboard, the sea being +intensely hot. I was at once swept seaward by a tidal wave, but, the sea +receding a considerable distance, the return wave washed me against an +upturned sloop to which I clung. I was joined by a man so dreadfully +burned and disfigured as to be unrecognizable. Afterwards I found he was +the captain of the Roraima, Captain Muggah. He was in dreadful agony, +begging piteously to be put on board his ship. + +“Picking up some wreckage which contained bedding and a tool chest, I, +with the help of five others who had joined me on the wreck, constructed +a rude raft, on which we placed the captain. Then, seeing an upturned +boat, I asked one of the five, a native of Martinique, to swim and fetch +it. Instead of returning to us, he picked up two of his countrymen and +went away in the direction of Fort de France. Seeing the Roddam, which +arrived in port shortly after we anchored, making for the Roraima, I +said good-bye to the captain and swam back to the Roraima. + +“The Roddam, however, burst into flames and put to sea. I reached the +Roraima at about half-past 2, and was afterwards taken off by a boat +from the French warship Suchet. Twenty-four others with myself were +taken on to Fort de France. Three of these died before reaching port. A +number of others have since died.” + +Samuel Thomas, the gangway man, whose life was saved by the forethought +of Taylor, says that the scene on the burning ship was awful. The groans +and cries of the dying, for whom nothing could be done, were horrible. +He describes a woman as being burned to death with a living babe in her +arms. He says that it seemed as if the whole world was afire. + + +CONSUL AYME’S STATEMENT + + +The inflammable material in the forepart of the ship that would have +ignited that part of the vessel was thrown overboard by him and the +other two uninjured men. The Grappler, the telegraph company’s ship, +was seen opposite the Usine Guerin, and disappeared as if blown up by a +submarine explosion. The captain’s body was subsequently found by a boat +from the Suchet. + +Consul Ayme, of Guadeloupe, who, as already stated, had hastened to +Fort de France on hearing of the terrible event, tells the story of the +disaster in the following words: + +“Thursday morning the inhabitants of the city awoke to find heavy clouds +shrouding Mont Pelee crater. All day Wednesday horrid detonations had +been heard. These were echoed from St. Thomas on the north to Barbados +on the south. The cannonading ceased on Wednesday night, and fine ashes +fell like rain on St. Pierre. The inhabitants were alarmed, but +Governor Mouttet, who had arrived at St. Pierre the evening before, did +everything possible to allay the panic. + +“The British steamer Roraima reached St. Pierre on Thursday with ten +passengers, among whom were Mrs. Stokes and her three children, and Mrs. +H. J. Ince. They were watching the rain of ashes, when, with a frightful +roar and terrific electric discharges, a cyclone of fire, mud and steam +swept down from the crater over the town and bay, sweeping all before it +and destroying the fleet of vessels at anchor off the shore. There the +accounts of the catastrophe so far obtainable cease. Thirty thousand +corpses are strewn about, buried in the ruins of St. Pierre, or else +floating, gnawed by sharks, in the surrounding seas. Twenty-eight +charred, half-dead human beings were brought here. Sixteen of them +are already dead, and only four of the whole number are expected to +recover.” + + +A WOMAN’S EXPERIENCE ON THE “RORAIMA” + + +Margaret Stokes, the 9 year old daughter of the late Clement Stokes, +of New York, who, with her mother, a brother aged 4 and a sister aged 3 +years, was on the ill-fated steamer Roraima, was saved from that vessel, +but is not expected to live. Her nurse, Clara King, tells the following +story of her experience: + +She says she was in her stateroom, when the steward of the Roraima +called out to her: + +“Look at Mont Pelee.” + +She went on deck and saw a vast mass of black cloud coming down from the +volcano. The steward ordered her to return to the saloon, saying, “It is +coming.” + +Miss King then rushed to the saloon. She says she experienced a feeling +of suffocation, which was followed by intense heat. The afterpart of the +Roraima broke out in flames. Ben Benson, the carpenter of the Roraima, +severely burned, assisted Miss King and Margaret Stokes to escape. With +the help of Mr. Scott, the first mate of the Roraima, he constructed +a raft, with life preservers. Upon this Miss King and Margaret were +placed. + +While this was being done Margaret’s little brother died. Mate Scott +brought the child water at great personal danger, but it was unavailing. +Shortly after the death of the little boy Mrs. Stokes succumbed. +Margaret and Miss King eventually got away on the raft, and were picked +up by the steamer Korona. Mate Scott also escaped. Miss King did not +sustain serious injuries. She covered the face of Margaret with her +dress, but still the child was probably fatally burned. + +The only woman known at that time to have survived the disaster at St. +Pierre was a negress named Fillotte. She was found in a cellar Saturday +afternoon, where she had been for three days. She was still alive, but +fearfully burned from head to toes. She died afterward in the hospital. + + +CAPTAIN FREEMAN’S THRILLING ACCOUNT + + +Of the vessels in the harbor of St. Pierre on the fateful morning, only +one, the British steamer Roddam, escaped, and that with a crew of whom +few reached the open sea alive. Those who did escape were terribly +injured. Captain Freeman, of this vessel, tells what he experienced in +the following thrilling language: + +“St. Lucia, British West Indies, May 11.--The steamer Roddam, of which I +am captain, left St. Lucia at midnight of May 7, and was off St. Pierre, +Martinique, at 6 o’clock on the morning of the 8th. I noticed that the +volcano, Mont Pelee, was smoking, and crept slowly in toward the bay, +finding there among others the steamer Roraima, the telegraph repairing +steamer Grappler and four sailing vessels. I went to anchorage between 7 +and 8 and had hardly moored when the side of the volcano opened out with +a terrible explosion. A wall of fire swept over the town and the bay. +The Roddam was struck broadside by the burning mass. The shock to the +ship was terrible, nearly capsizing her. + + +AWFUL RESULTS + + +“Hearing the awful report of the explosion and seeing the great wall of +flames approaching the steamer, those on deck sought shelter wherever it +was possible, jumping into the cabin, the forecastle and even into the +hold. I was in the chart room, but the burning embers were borne by so +swift a movement of the air that they were swept in through the door and +port holes, suffocating and scorching me badly. I was terribly burned +by these embers about the face and hands, but managed to reach the +deck. Then, as soon as it was possible, I mustered the few survivors +who seemed able to move, ordered them to slip the anchor, leaped for +the bridge and ran the engine for full speed astern. The second and the +third engineer and a fireman were on watch below and so escaped injury. +They did their part in the attempt to escape, but the men on deck could +not work the steering gear because it was jammed by the debris from the +volcano. We accordingly went ahead and astern until the gear was free, +but in this running backward and forward it was two hours after the +first shock before we were clear of the bay. + +“One of the most terrifying conditions was that, the atmosphere +being charged with ashes, it was totally dark. The sun was completely +obscured, and the air was only illuminated by the flames from the +volcano and those of the burning town and shipping. It seems small to +say that the scene was terrifying in the extreme. As we backed out we +passed close to the Roraima, which was one mass of blaze. The steam was +rushing from the engine room, and the screams of those on board were +terrible to hear. The cries for help were all in vain, for I could +do nothing but save my own ship. When I last saw the Roraima she was +settling down by the stern. That was about 10 o’clock in the morning. + +“When the Roddam was safely out of the harbor of St. Pierre, with its +desolations and horrors, I made for St. Lucia. Arriving there, and when +the ship was safe, I mustered the survivors as well as I was able and +searched for the dead and injured. Some I found in the saloon where they +had vainly sought for safety, but the cabins were full of burning embers +that had blown in through the port holes. Through these the fire swept +as through funnels and burned the victims where they lay or stood, +leaving a circular imprint of scorched and burned flesh. I brought +ten on deck who were thus burned; two of them were dead, the others +survived, although in a dreadful state of torture from their burns. +Their screams of agony were heartrending. Out of a total of twenty-three +on board the Roddam, which includes the captain and the crew, ten are +dead and several are in the hospital. My first and second mates, my +chief engineer and my supercargo, Campbell by name, were killed. The +ship was covered from stem to stern with tons of powdered lava, which +retained its heat for hours after it had fallen. In many cases it was +practically incandescent, and to move about the deck in this burning +mass was not only difficult but absolutely perilous. I am only now able +to begin thoroughly to clear and search the ship for any damage done +by this volcanic rain, and to see if there are any corpses in +out-of-the-way places. For instance, this morning, I found one body in +the peak of the forecastle. The body was horribly burned and the sailor +had evidently crept in there in his agony to die. + +“On the arrival of the Roddam at St. Lucia the ship presented an +appalling appearance. Dead and calcined bodies lay about the deck, which +was also crowded with injured helpless and suffering people. Prompt +assistance was rendered to the injured by the authorities here and my +poor, tortured men were taken to the hospital. The dead were buried. +I have omitted to mention that out of twenty-one black laborers that I +brought from Grenada to help in stevedoring, only six survived. Most +of the others threw themselves overboard to escape a dreadful fate, but +they met a worse one, for it is an actual fact that the water around +the ship was literally at a boiling heat. The escape of my vessel +was miraculous. The woodwork of the cabins and bridge and everything +inflammable on deck were constantly igniting, and it was with great +difficulty that we few survivors managed to keep the flames down. My +ropes, awnings, tarpaulins were completely burned up. + +“I witnessed the entire destruction of St. Pierre. The flames enveloped +the town in every quarter with such rapidity that it was impossible that +any person could be saved. As I have said, the day was suddenly turned +to night, but I could distinguish by the light of the burning town +people distractedly running about on the beach. The burning buildings +stood out from the surrounding darkness like black shadows. All this +time the mountain was roaring and shaking, and in the intervals between +these terrifying sounds I could hear the cries of despair and agony from +the thousands who were perishing. These cries added to the terror of +the scene, but it is impossible to describe its horror or the dreadful +sensations it produced. It was like witnessing the end of the world. + +“Let me add that, after the first shock was over, the survivors of +the crew rendered willing help to navigate the ship to this port. Mr. +Plissoneau, our agent in Martinique, happening to be on board, was +saved, and I really believe that he is the only survivor of St. Pierre. +As it is, he is seriously burned on the hands and face. + +“FREEMAN, + +“Master British Steamship Roddam.” + + +THE “ETONA” PASSES ST. PIERRE + + +The British steamer Etona, of the Norton Line, stopped at St. Lucia to +coal on May 10th. Captain Cantell there visited the Roddam and had an +interview with Captain Freeman. On the 11th the Elona put to sea again, +passing St. Pierre in the afternoon. We subjoin her captain’s story: + +“The weather was clear and we had a fine view, but the old outlines of +St. Pierre were not recognizable. Everything was a mass of blue lava, +and the formation of the land itself seemed to have changed. When we +were about eight miles off the northern end of the island Mount Pelee +began to belch a second time. Clouds of smoke and lava shot into the +air and spread over all the sea, darkening the sun. Our decks in a +few minutes were covered with a substance that looked like sand dyed a +bluish tint, and which smelled like phosphorus. For all that the day was +clear, there was little to be seen satisfactorily. Over the island there +hung a blue haze. It seemed to me that the formation, the topography, of +the island was altered. + +“Everything seemed to be covered with a blue dust, such as had fallen +aboard us every day since we had been within the affected region. It +was blue lava dust. For more than an hour we scanned the coast with our +glasses, now and then discovering something that looked like a ruined +hamlet or collection of buildings. There was no life visible. Suddenly +we realized that we might have to fight for our lives as the Roddam’s +people had done. + +“We were about four miles off the northern end of the island when +suddenly there shot up in the air to a tremendous height a column of +smoke. The sky darkened and the smoke seemed to swirl down upon us. In +fact, it spread all around, darkening the atmosphere as far as we could +see. I called Chief Engineer Farrish to the deck. + +“‘Do you see that over there?’ I asked, pointing to the eruption, for +it was the second eruption of Mont Pelee. He saw it all right. Captain +Freeman’s story was fresh in my mind. + +“‘Well, Farrish, rush your engines as they have never been rushed +before,’ I said to him. He went below, and soon we began to burn coal +and pile up the feathers in our forefoot. + +“I was on watch with Second Officer Gibbs. At once we began to furl +awnings and make secure against fire. The crew were all showing an +anxious spirit, and everybody on board, including the four passengers, +were serious and apprehensive. + +“We began to cut through the water at almost twelve knots. Ordinarily we +make ten knots. We could see no more of the land contour, but everything +seemed to be enveloped in a great cloud. There was no fire visible, but +the lava dust rained down upon us steadily. In less than an hour there +were two inches of it upon our deck. + +“The air smelled like phosphorus. No one dared to look up to try to +locate the sun, because one’s eyes would fill with lava dust. Some of +the blue lava dust is sticking to our mast yet, although we have swabbed +decks and rigging again and again to be clear of it. + +“After a little more than an hour’s fast running we saw daylight ahead +and began to breathe easier. If I had not talked with Captain Freeman +and heard from him just how the black swirl of wind and fire rolled down +upon him, I would not have been so apprehensive, but would have thought +that the darkness and cloud that came down upon us meant just an +unusually heavy squall.” + + +CHIEF ENGINEER FARRISH’S STORY + + +“The Etona’s run from Montevideo was a fast one--I think a record +breaker. We were 22 days and 21 hours from port to port. Off Martinique +I stared at the coast for about an hour, and then went below. The blue +lava that covered everything faded into the haze that hung over the +island so that nothing was distinctly visible. Through my glass I +discovered a stream of lava, though. It stretched down the mountain +side, and seemed to be flowing into the sea. It was not clearly and +distinctly visible, however. + +“About 3 o’clock I went below to take forty winks. I had been in my +berth only a few minutes when the steward told me the captain wanted me +on the bridge. + +“‘Do you see that, Farrish?’ he asked, pointing at the land. An outburst +of smoke seemed to be sweeping down upon us. It made me think of the +Roddam’s experience. Smoke and dust closed in about us, shutting out the +sunlight, and precipitating a fall of lava on our decks. + +“‘Go below and drive her,’ said the captain, and I didn’t lose any time, +I can tell you. We burned coal as though it didn’t cost a cent. The +safety valve was jumping every second, even though we were making twelve +knots an hour. For two hours we kept up the pace, and then, running into +clear daylight, let the engines slow down and we all cheered up a bit.” + + +CAPTAIN CANTELL VISITS THE “RODDAM” + + +Captain Cantell went on board the Roddam, whose frightful condition he +thus describes: + +“At St. Lucia, on May 11th, I went on board the British steamship +Roddam, which had escaped from the terrible volcanic eruption at +Martinique two days before. The state of the ship was enough to show +that those on board must have undergone an awful experience. + +“The Roddam was covered with a mass of fine bluish gray dust or ashes of +cement-like appearance. In some parts it lay two feet deep on the decks. +This matter had fallen in a red-hot state all over the steamer, setting +fire to everything it struck that was burnable, and, when it fell on +the men on board, burning off limbs and large pieces of flesh. This was +shown by finding portions of human flesh when the decks were cleared of +the debris. The rigging, ropes, tarpaulins, sails, awnings, etc., were +charred or burned, and most of the upper stanchions and spars were swept +overboard or destroyed by fire. Skylights were smashed and cabins were +filled with volcanic dust. The scene of ruin was deplorable. + +“The captain, though suffering the greatest agony, succeeded in +navigating his vessel safely to the port of Castries, St. Lucia, with +eighteen dead bodies on the deck and human limbs scattered about. A +sailor stood by constantly wiping the captain’s injured eyes. + +“I think the performance of the Roddam’s captain was most wonderful, and +the more so when I saw his pitiful condition. I do not understand how +he kept up, yet when the steamer arrived at St. Lucia and medical +assistance was procured, this brave man asked the doctors to attend to +the others first and refused to be treated until this was done. + +“My interview with the captain brought out this account. I left him in +good spirits and receiving every comfort. The sight of his face would +frighten anyone not prepared to see it.” + + +THE VIVID ACCOUNT OF M. ALBERT + + +To the accounts given by the survivors of the Roraima and the officers +of the Etona, it will be well to add the following graphic story told by +M. Albert, a planter of the island, the owner of an estate situated only +a mile to the northeast of the burning crater of Mont Pelee. His escape +from death had in it something of the marvellous. He says: + +“Mont Pelee had given warning of the destruction that was to come, but +we, who had looked upon the volcano as harmless, did not believe that +it would do more than spout fire and steam, as it had done on other +occasions. It was a little before eight o’clock on the morning of May +8 that the end came. I was in one of the fields of my estate when the +ground trembled under my feet, not as it does when the earth quakes, but +as though a terrible struggle was going on within the mountain. A terror +came upon me, but I could not explain my fear. + +“As I stood still Mont Pelee seemed to shudder, and a moaning sound +issued from its crater. It was quite dark, the sun being obscured by +ashes and fine volcanic dust. The air was dead about me, so dead that +the floating dust seemingly was not disturbed. Then there was a rending, +crashing, grinding noise, which I can only describe as sounding as +though every bit of machinery in the world had suddenly broken down. It +was deafening, and the flash of light that accompanied it was blinding, +more so than any lightning I have ever seen. + +“It was like a terrible hurricane, and where a fraction of a second +before there had been a perfect calm, I felt myself drawn into a vortex +and I had to brace myself firmly. It was like a great express train +rushing by, and I was drawn by its force. The mysterious force levelled +a row of strong trees, tearing them up by the roots and leaving bare a +space of ground fifteen yards wide and more than one hundred yards long. +Transfixed I stood, not knowing in what direction to flee. I looked +toward Mont Pelee, and above its apex there appeared a great black cloud +which reached high in the air. It literally fell upon the city of St. +Pierre. It moved with a rapidity that made it impossible for anything to +escape it. From the cloud came explosions that sounded as though all of +the navies of the world were in titanic combat. Lightning played in and +out in broad forks, the result being that intense darkness was followed +by light that seemed to be of magnifying power. + +“That St. Pierre was doomed I knew, but I was prevented from seeing the +destruction by a spur of the hill that shut off the view of the city. It +is impossible for me to tell how long I stood there inert. Probably it +was only a few seconds, but so vivid were my impressions that it +now seems as though I stood as a spectator for many minutes. When I +recovered possession of my senses I ran to my house and collected the +members of the family, all of whom were panic stricken. I hurried them +to the seashore, where we boarded a small steamship, in which we made +the trip in safety to Fort de France. + +“I know that there was no flame in the first wave that was sent down +upon St. Pierre. It was a heavy gas, like firedamp, and it must have +asphyxiated the inhabitants before they were touched by the fire, which +quickly followed. As we drew out to sea in the small steamship, Mont +Pelee was in the throes of a terrible convulsion. New craters seemed to +be opening all about the summit and lava was flowing in broad streams +in every direction. My estate was ruined while we were still in sight +of it. Many women who lived in St. Pierre escaped only to know that they +were left widowed and childless. This is because many of the wealthier +men sent their wives away, while they remained in St. Pierre to attend +to their business affairs.” + + +WHAT HAPPENED ON THE “HORACE” + + +The British steamer Horace experienced the effect of the explosion when +farther from land. After touching at Barbados, she reached the vicinity +of Martinique on May 9th, her decks being covered with several inches +of dust when she was a hundred and twenty-five miles distant. We quote +engineer Anderson’s story: + +“On the afternoon of May 8 (Thursday) we noticed a peculiar haze in +the direction of Martinique. The air seemed heavy and oppressive. The +weather conditions were not at all unlike those which precede the great +West Indian hurricanes, but, knowing it was not the season of the year +for them, we all remarked in the engine room that there must be a heavy +storm approaching. + +“Several of the sailors, experienced deep water seamen, laughed at our +prognostications, and informed us there would be no storm within +the next sixty hours, and insisted that, according to all fo’cas’le +indications, a dead calm was in sight. + +“So unusually peculiar were the weather conditions that we talked +of nothing else during the evening. That night, in the direction of +Martinique, there was a very black sky, an unusual thing at this season +of the year, and a storm was apparently brewing in a direction from +which storms do not come at this season. + + +GREAT FLASHES OF LIGHT + + +“As the night wore on those on watch noticed what appeared to be great +flashes of lightning in the direction of Martinique. It seemed as though +the ordinary conditions were reversed, and even the fo’cas’le prophets +were unable to offer explanations. + +“Occasionally, over the pounding of the engines and the rush of water, +we thought we could hear long, deep roars, not unlike the ending of a +deep peal of thunder. Several times we heard the rumble or roar, but at +the time we were not certain as to exactly what it was, or even whether +we really heard it. + +“There would suddenly come great flashes of light from the dark bank +toward Martinique. Some of them seemed to spread over a great area, +while others appeared to spout skyward, funnel shaped. All night this +continued, and it was not until day came that the flashes disappeared. +The dark bank that covered the horizon toward Martinique, however, did +not fade away with the breaking of day, and at eight in the morning of +the 9th (Friday) the whole section of the sky in that direction seemed +dark and troubled. + +“About nine o’clock Friday morning I was sitting on one of the +hatches aft with some of the other engineers and officers of the ship, +discussing the peculiar weather phenomena. I noticed a sort of grit that +got into my mouth from the end of the cigar I was smoking. + +“I attributed it to some rather bad coal which we had shipped aboard, +and, turning to Chief Engineer Evans, I remarked that ‘that coal was +mighty dirty,’ and he said that it was covering the ship with a sort of +grit. Then I noticed that grit was getting on my clothes, and finally +some one suggested that we go forward of the funnels, so we would not +get dirt on us. As we went forward we met one or two of the sailors from +the forecastle, who wanted to know about the dust that was falling on +the ship. Then we found that the grayish-looking ash was sifting all +over the ship, both forward and aft. + + +ASHES RAINED ON THE SHIP + + +“Every moment the ashes rained down all over the ship, and at the same +time grew thicker. A few moments later, the lookout called down that we +were running into a fog-bank dead ahead. Fog banks in that section are +unheard of at nine o’clock in the morning at this season, and we were +more than a hundred miles from land, and what could fog and sand be +doing there. + +“Before we knew it, we went into the fog, which proved to be a big +dense bank of this same sand, and it rained down on us from every side. +Ventilators were quickly brought to their places, and later even the +hatches were battened down. The dust became suffocating, and the men at +times had all they could do to keep from choking. What the stuff was we +could not at first conjecture, or rather, we didn’t have much time to +speculate on it, for we had to get our ship in shape to withstand we +hardly knew what. + +“At first we thought that the sand must have been blown from shore. Then +we decided that if the Captain’s figures were right we wouldn’t be near +enough to shore to have sand blow on us, and as we had just cleared +Barbados, we knew that the Captain’s figures had to be right. + +“Just as the storm of sand was at its height, Fourth Engineer Wild was +nearly suffocated by it, but was easily revived. About this time it +became so dark that we found it necessary to start up the electric +lights, and it was not until after we got clear from the fog that +we turned the current off. In the meantime they had burned from nine +o’clock in the morning until after two in the afternoon. + + +THE ENGINE BECAME CHOKED + + +“Then there was another anxious moment shortly after nine o’clock. Third +Engineer Rennie had been running the donkey engine, when suddenly it +choked, and when he finally got it clear from the sand or ashes, he +found the valves were all cut out, and then it was we discovered that +it was not sand, but some sort of a composition that seemed to cut steel +like emery. Then came the danger that it would get into the valves of +the engine and cut them out, and for several moments all hands scurried +about and helped make the engine room tight, and even then the ash +drifted in and kept all the engine room force wiping the engines clear +of it. + +“Toward three o’clock in the afternoon of Friday we were practically +clear of the sand, but at eleven o’clock that night we ran into a second +bank of it, though not as bad as the first. We made some experiments, +and found the stuff was superior to emery dust. It cut deeper and +quicker, and only about half as much was required to do the work. We +made up our minds we would keep what came on board, as it was better +than the emery dust and much cheaper, so we gathered it up. + +“That night there were more of the same electric phenomena toward +Martinique, but it was not until we got into St. Lucia, where we saw the +Roddam, that we learned of the terrible disaster at St. Pierre, and then +we knew that our sand was lava dust.” + +The volcanic ash which fell on the decks of the Horace was ground as +fine as rifle powder, and was much finer than that which covered the +decks of the Etona. + +Returning to the stories told by officers of the Roraima, of which a +number have been given, it seems desirable to add here the narrative of +Ellery S. Scott, the mate of the ruined ship, since it gives a vivid and +striking account of his personal experience of the frightful disaster, +with many details of interest not related by others. + + +MATE SCOTT’S GRAPHIC STORY + + +“We got to St. Pierre in the Roraima,” began Mr. Scott, “at 6.30 o’clock +on Thursday morning. That’s the morning the mountain and the town and +the ships were all sent to hell in a minute. + +“All hands had had breakfast. I was standing on the fo’c’s’l head trying +to make out the marks on the pipes of a ship ‘way out and heading for +St. Lucia. I wasn’t looking at the mountain at all. But I guess the +captain was, for he was on the bridge, and the last time I heard him +speak was when he shouted, ‘Heave up, Mr. Scott; heave up.’ I gave the +order to the men, and I think some of them did jump to get the anchor +up, but nobody knows what really happened for the next fifteen minutes. +I turned around toward the captain and then I saw the mountain. + +“Did you ever see the tide come into the Bay of Fundy. It doesn’t sneak +in a little at a time as it does ‘round here. It rolls in in waves. +That’s the way the cloud of fire and mud and white-hot stones rolled +down from that volcano over the town and over the ships. It was on us +in almost no time, but I saw it and in the same glance I saw our captain +bracing himself to meet it on the bridge. He was facing the fire cloud +with both hands gripped hard to the bridge rail, his legs apart and his +knees braced back stiff. I’ve seen him brace himself that same way many +a time in a tough sea with the spray going mast-head high and green +water pouring along the decks. + +“I saw the captain, I say, at the same instant I saw that ruin coming +down on us. I don’t know why, but that last glimpse of poor Muggah on +his bridge will stay with me just as long as I remember St. Pierre and +that will be long enough. + +“In another instant it was all over for him. As I was looking at him he +was all ablaze. He reeled and fell on the bridge with his face toward +me. His mustache and eyebrows were gone in a jiffy. His hat had gone, +and his hair was aflame, and so were his clothes from head to foot. +I knew he was conscious when he fell, by the look in his eyes, but he +didn’t make a sound. + +“That all happened a long way inside of half a minute; then something +new happened. When the wave of fire was going over us, a tidal wave of +the sea came out from the shore and did the rest. That wall of rushing +water was so high and so solid that it seemed to rise up and join the +smoke and flame above. For an instant we could see nothing but the water +and the flame. + +“That tidal wave picked the ship up like a canoe and then smashed her. +After one list to starboard the ship righted, but the masts, the bridge, +the funnel and all the upper works had gone overboard. + +“I had saved myself from fire by jamming a metal ventilator cover over +my head and jumping from the fo’c’s’l head. Two St. Kitts negroes saved +me from the water by grabbing me by the legs and pulling me down into +the fo’c’s’l after them. Before I could get up three men tumbled in on +top of me. Two of them were dead. + +“Captain Muggah went overboard, still clinging to the fragments of his +wrecked bridge. Daniel Taylor, the ship’s cooper, and a Kitts native +jumped overboard to save him. Taylor managed to push the captain on to +a hatch that had floated off from us and then they swam back to the ship +for more assistance, but nothing could be done for the captain. Taylor +wasn’t sure he was alive. The last we saw of him or his dead body it was +drifting shoreward on that hatch. + +“Well, after staying in the fo’c’s’l about twenty minutes I went out on +deck. There were just four of us left aboard who could do anything. +The four were Thompson, Dan Taylor, Quashee, and myself. It was still +raining fire and hot rocks and you could hardly see a ship’s length for +dust and ashes, but we could stand that. There were burning men and some +women and two or three children lying around the deck. Not just burned, +but burning, then, when we got to them. More than half the ship’s +company had been killed in that first rush of flame. Some had rolled +overboard when the tidal wave came and we never saw so much as their +bodies. The cook was burned to death in his galley. He had been paring +potatoes for dinner and what was left of his right hand held the shank +of his potato knife. The wooden handle was in ashes. All that happened +to a man in less than a minute. The donkey engineman was killed on deck +sitting in front of his boiler. We found parts of some bodies--a hand, +or an arm or a leg. Below decks there were some twenty alive. + +“The ship was on fire, of course, what was left of it. The stumps of +both masts were blazing. Aft she was like a furnace, but forward the +flames had not got below deck, so we four carried those who were still +alive on deck into the fo’c’s’l. All of them were burned and most of +them were half strangled. + +“One boy, a passenger and just a little shaver [the four-year-old son of +the late Clement Stokes, above spoken of] was picked up naked. His hair +and all his clothing had been burned off, but he was alive. We rolled +him in a blanket and put him in a sailor’s bunk. A few minutes later we +looked at him and he was dead. + +“My own son’s gone, too. It had been his trick at lookout ahead during +the dog watch that morning, when we were making for St. Pierre, so I +supposed at first when the fire struck us that he was asleep in his bunk +and safe. But he wasn’t. Nobody could tell me where he was. I don’t know +whether he was burned to death or rolled overboard and drowned. He was +a likely boy. He had been several voyages with me and would have been a +master some day. He used to say he’d make me mate. + +“After getting all hands that had any life left in them below and +‘tended to the best we could, the four of us that were left half way +ship-shape started in to fight the fire. We had case oil stowed forward. +Thanks to that tidal wave that cleared our decks there wasn’t much left +to burn, so we got the fire down so’s we could live on board with it for +several hours more and then the four turned to to knock a raft together +out of what timber and truck we could find below. Our boats had gone +overboard with the masts and funnel. + + +PREPARED TO TRUST TO LUCK + + +“We made that raft for something over thirty that were alive. We put +provisions on for two days and rigged up a make-shift mast and sail, +for we intended to go to sea. We were only three boats’ length from the +shore, but the shore was hell itself. We intended to put straight out +and trust to luck that the Korona, that was about due at St. Pierre, +would pick us up. But we did not have to risk the raft, for about 3 +o’clock in the afternoon, when we were almost ready to put the raft +overboard, the Suchet came along and took us all off. We thought for a +minute just after we were wrecked that we were to get help from a ship +that passed us. We burned blue lights, but she kept on. We learned +afterward that she was the Roddam.” + +Soundings made off Martinique after the explosion showed that earthquake +effects of much importance had taken place under the sea bottom, which +had been lifted in some places and had sunk in others. While deep +crevices had been formed on the land, a still greater effect had +seemingly been produced beneath the water. During the explosion the sea +withdrew several hundred feet from its shore line, and then came back +steaming with fury; this indicating a lift and fall of the ocean bed off +the isle. Soundings made subsequently near the island found in one place +a depth of 4,000 feet where before it had been only 600 feet deep. The +French Cable Company, which was at work trying to repair the cables +broken by the eruption, found the bottom of the Caribbean Sea so changed +as to render the old charts useless. + +New charts will need to be made for future navigation. The changes +in sea levels were not confined to the immediate centre of volcanic +activity, but extended as far north as Porto Rico, and it was believed +that the seismic wave would be found to have altered the ocean bed round +Jamaica. Vessels plying between St. Thomas, Martinique, St. Lucia and +other islands found it necessary to heave the lead while many miles at +sea. + +It is estimated that the sea had encroached from ten feet to two miles +along the coast of St. Vincent near Georgetown, and that a section on +the north of the island had dropped into the sea. Soundings showed +seven fathoms where before the eruption there were thirty-six fathoms of +water. Vessels that endeavored to approach St. Vincent toward the north +reported that it was impossible to get nearer than eight miles to +the scene of the catastrophe, and that at that distance the ocean was +seriously perturbed as from a submarine volcano, boiling and hissing +continually. + +In this connection the remarkable experience reported by the officers +of the Danish steamship Nordby, on the day preceding the eruption, is of +much interest, as seeming to show great convulsions of the sea bottom +at a point several hundred miles from Martinique. The following is the +story told by Captain Eric Lillien-skjold: + + +THE STRANGE EXPERIENCE OF THE “NORDBY” + + +“On May 5th,” the captain said, “we touched at St. Michael’s for water. +We had had an easy voyage from Girgenti, in Sicily, and we wanted to +finish an easy run here. We left St. Michael’s on the same day. Nothing +worth while talking about occurred until two days afterward--Wednesday, +May 7th. + +“We were plodding along slowly that day. About noon I took the bridge +to make an observation. It seemed to be hotter than ordinary. I shed my +coat and vest and got into what little shade there was. As I worked it +grew hotter and hotter. I didn’t know what to make of it. Along about +2 o’clock in the afternoon it was so hot that all hands got to talking +about it. We reckoned that something queer was coming off, but none of +us could explain what it was. You could almost see the pitch softening +in the seams. + +“Then, as quick as you could toss a biscuit over its rail, the Nordby +dropped--regularly dropped--three or four feet down into the sea. No +sooner did it do this than big waves, that looked like they were coming +from all directions at once, began to smash against our sides. This was +queerer yet, because the water a minute before was as smooth as I ever +saw it. I had all hands piped on deck and we battened down everything +loose to make ready for a storm. And we got it all right--the strangest +storm you ever heard tell of. + +“There was something wrong with the sun that afternoon. It grew red and +then dark red and then, about a quarter after 2, it went out of sight +altogether. The day got so dark that you couldn’t see half a ship’s +length ahead of you. We got our lamps going, and put on our oilskins, +ready for a hurricane. All of a sudden there came a sheet of lightning +that showed up the whole tumbling sea for miles and miles. We sort of +ducked, expecting an awful crash of thunder, but it didn’t come. There +was no sound except the big waves pounding against our sides. There +wasn’t a breath of wind. + +“Well, sir, at that minute there began the most exciting time I’ve ever +been through, and I’ve been on every sea on the map for twenty-five +years. Every second there’d be waves 15 or 20 feet high, belting us +head-on, stern-on and broadside, all at once. We could see them coming, +for without any stop at all flash after flash of lightning was blazing +all about us. + +“Something else we could see, too. Sharks! There were hundreds of them +on all sides, jumping up and down in the water. Some of them jumped +clear out of it. And sea birds! A flock of them, squawking and crying, +made for our rigging and perched there. They seemed like they were +scared to death. But the queerest part of it all was the water itself. +It was hot--not so hot that our feet could not stand it when it washed +over the deck, but hot enough to make us think that it had been heated +by some kind of a fire. + +“Well that sort of thing went on hour after hour. The waves, the +lightning, the hot water and the sharks, and all the rest of the odd +things happening, frightened the crew out of their wits. Some of them +prayed out loud--I guess the first time they ever did in their lives. +Some Frenchmen aboard kept running around and yelling, ‘Cest le dernier +jour!’ (This is the last day.) We were all worried. Even the officers +began to think that the world was coming to an end. Mighty strange +things happen on the sea, but this topped them all. + +“I kept to the bridge all night. When the first hour of morning came +the storm was still going on. We were all pretty much tired out by that +time, but there was no such thing as trying to sleep. The waves still +were batting us around and we didn’t know whether we were one mile or +a thousand miles from shore. At 2 o’clock in the morning all the queer +goings on stopped just the way they began--all of a sudden. We lay to +until daylight; then we took our reckonings and started off again. We +were about 700 miles off Cape Henlopen. + +“No, sir; you couldn’t get me through a thing like that again for +$10,000. None of us was hurt, and the old Nordby herself pulled through +all right, but I’d sooner stay ashore than see waves without wind and +lightning without thunder.” + + +FIERY STREAM CONTAINED POISONOUS GASES + + +Careful inspection showed that the fiery stream which so completely +destroyed St. Pierre must have been composed of poisonous gases, which +instantly suffocated every one who inhaled them, and of other gases +burning furiously, for nearly all the victims had their hands covering +their mouths, or were in some other attitude showing that they had +perished from suffocation. + +It is believed that Mont Pelee threw off a great gasp of some +exceedingly heavy and noxious gas, something akin to firedamp, which +settled upon the city and rendered the inhabitants insensible. This was +followed by the sheet of flame that swept down the side of the mountain. +This theory is sustained by the experience of the survivors who were +taken from the ships in the harbor, as they say that their first +experience was one of faintness. + +The dumb animals were wiser than man, and early took warning of the +storm of fire which Mont Pelee was storing up to hurl upon the island. +Even before the mountain began to rumble, late in April, live stock +became uneasy, and at times were almost uncontrollable. Cattle lowed in +the night. Dogs howled and sought the company of their masters, and when +driven forth they gave every evidence of fear. + +Wild animals disappeared from the vicinity of Mont Pelee. Even the +snakes, which at ordinary times are found in great numbers near the +volcano, crawled away. Birds ceased singing and left the trees that +shaded the sides of Pelee. A great fear seemed to be upon the island, +and though it was shared by the human inhabitants, they alone neglected +to protect themselves. + +Of the villages in the vicinity of St. Pierre only one escaped, the +others suffering the fate of the city. The fortunate one was Le Carbet, +on the south, which escaped uninjured, the flood of lava stopping when +within two hundred feet of the town. Morne Rouge, a beautiful summer +resort, frequented by the people of the island during the hot season as +a place of recreation, also escaped. In the height of the season several +thousand people gathered there, though at the time of the explosion +there were but a few hundred. Though located on an elevation between the +city and the crater, it was by great good fortune saved. + +The Governor of Martinique, Mr. Mouttet, whose precautions to prevent +the people fleeing from the city aided to make the work of death +complete, was himself among the victims of the burning mountain. With +him in this fate was Colonel Dain, commander of the troops who formed a +cordon round the doomed city. + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +St. Vincent Island and Mont Soufriere in 1812. + + +Among all the islands of the Caribbees St. Vincent is unique in natural +wonders and beauties. Situated about ninety-five miles west of Barbados, +it has a length of eighteen and a width of eleven miles, the whole mass +being largely composed of a single peak which rises from the ocean’s +bed. From north to south volcanic hills traverse its length, their +ridges intersected by fertile and beautiful valleys. + +A ridge of mountains crosses the island, dividing it into eastern and +western parts. Kingstown, the capital, a town of 8,000 inhabitants, is +on the southward side and extends along the shores of a beautiful +bay, with mountains gradually rising behind it in the form of a vast +amphitheatre. Three streets, broad and lined with good houses, run +parallel to the water-front. There are many other intersecting highways, +some of which lead back to the foothills, from which good roads ascend +the mountains. + +The majority of the houses have red tile roofing and a goodly number of +them are of stone, one story high, with thick walls after the Spanish +style--the same types of houses that were in St. Pierre and which +are not unlike the old Roman houses which in all stages of ruin and +semi-preservation are found in Pompeii to this day. + +Behind the general group of the houses of the town loom the Governor’s +residence and the buildings of the botanical gardens which overlook the +town. + +Kingstown is the trading centre and the town of importance in the +island. It contains the churches and chapels of five Protestant +denominations and a number of excellent schools. Away from Kingstown, +and the smaller settlement of Georgetown, the population is almost +wholly rural, occupying scattered villages which consist of negro huts +clustering around a few substantial buildings or of cabins grouped about +old plantation buildings somewhat after the ante-bellum fashion in our +own Southern States. + +One of the tragedies of the West Indies was the sinking of old Port +Royal, the resort of buccaneers, in 1692. The harbor of Kingstown is +commonly supposed to cover the site of the old settlement. There is +a tradition that a buoy for many years was attached to the spire of a +sunken church in order to warn mariners. Three thousand persons perished +in the disaster. + + +DESCENDANTS OF ORIGINAL INDIAN POPULATION + + +The northern portion of the island, that desolated by the recent +volcanic eruption, was inhabited by people living in the manner +just described, the great majority of them being negroes. The total +population of the island is about 45,000, of whom 30,000 are Africans +and about 3,000 Europeans, the remainder being nearly all Asiatics. +There are, or rather were, a number of Caribs, the descendants of the +original warlike Indian population of these islands. Many of these live +in St. Vincent, though there are others in Dominico. As their residence +was in the northern section of the island, the volcano seems to have +completed the work for the Caribs of this island which the Spaniard long +ago began. These Caribs were really half-breds, having amalgamated with +the negroes. Many of the blacks own land of their own, raising arrow +root, which, since the decay of the sugar industry, is the chief export. + +In an island only eighteen miles long by eleven broad there is not room +for any distinctly marked mountain range. The whole of St. Vincent, in +fact, is a fantastic tumble of hills, culminating in the volcanic ridge +which runs lengthwise of the oval-shaped island. The culminating peak of +the great volcanic mass, for St. Vincent is nothing more, is Mont Garou, +of which La Soufriere is a sort of lofty excrescence in the northwest, +4,048 feet high, and flanking the main peak at some distance away. + +It may be said that all the volcanic mountains in this part of the West +Indies have what the people call a “soufriere”--a “sulphur pit,” or +“sulphur crater”--the name coming, as in the case of past disturbances +of Mont Pelee, from the strong stench of sulphuretted hydrogen which +issues from them when the volcano becomes agitated. + +In 1812 it was La Soufriere adjacent to Mont Garou which broke loose on +the island of St. Vincent, and it is the same Soufriere which again has +devastated the island and has bombarded Kingstown with rocks, lava and +ashes. + +The old crater of Mont Garou has long been extinct, and, like the old +crater of Mont Pelee, near St. Pierre, it had far down in its depths, +surrounded by sheer cliffs from 500 to 800 feet high, a lake. Glimpses +of the lake of Mont Garou are difficult to get, owing to the thick +verdure growing about the dangerous edges of the precipices, but those +who have seen it describe it as a beautiful sheet of deep blue water. + + +THE APPEARANCE OF THE SOUFRIERE + + +Previous to the eruption of 1812 the appearance of the Soufriere was +most interesting. The crater was half a mile in diameter and five +hundred feet in depth. In its centre was a conical hill, fringed with +shrubs and vines; at whose base were two small lakes, one sulphurous, +the other pure and tasteless. This lovely and beautiful spot was +rendered more interesting by the singularly melodious notes of a bird, +an inhabitant of these upper solitudes, and altogether unknown to the +other parts of the island--hence called, or supposed to be, “invisible,” + as it had never been seen. (It is of interest to state that Frederick +A. Ober, in a visit to the island some twenty years ago, succeeded in +obtaining specimens of this previously unknown bird.) From the fissures +of the cone a thin white smoke exuded, occasionally tinged with a light +blue flame. Evergreens, flowers and aromatic shrubs clothed the steep +sides of the crater, which made, as the first indication of the eruption +on April 27, 1812, a tremulous noise in the air. A severe concussion of +the earth followed, and then a column of thick black smoke burst from +the crater. + + +THE ERUPTION OF 1812 + + +The eruption which followed these premonitory symptoms was one of the +most terrific which had occurred in the West Indies up to that time. It +was the culminating event which seemed to relieve a pressure within the +earth’s crust which extended from the Mississippi Valley to Caracas, +Venezuela, producing terrible effects in the latter place. Here, +thirty-five days before the volcanic explosion, the ground was rent and +shaken by a frightful earthquake which hurled the city in ruins to the +ground and killed ten thousand of its inhabitants in a moment of time. + +La Soufriere made the first historic display of its hidden powers in +1718, when lava poured from its crater. A far more violent demonstration +of its destructive forces was that above mentioned. On this occasion the +eruption lasted for three days, ruining a number of the estates in the +vicinity and destroying many lives. Myriads of tons of ashes, cinders, +pumice and scoriae, hurled from the crater, fell in every section of +the island. Volumes of sand darkened the air, and woods, ridges and cane +fields were covered with light gray ashes, which speedily destroyed all +vegetation. The sun for three days seemed to be in a total eclipse, +the sea was discolored and the ground bore a wintry appearance from the +white crust of fallen ashes. + +Carib natives who lived at Morne Rond fled from their houses to +Kingstown. As the third day drew to a close flames sprang pyramidically +from the crater, accompanied by loud thunder and electric flashes, +which rent the column of smoke hanging over the volcano. Eruptive matter +pouring from the northwest side plunged over the cliff, carrying down +rocks and woods in its course. The island was shaken by an earthquake +and bombarded with showers of cinders and stones, which set houses on +fire and killed many of the natives. + + +THE TERRIBLE EARTHQUAKE AT CARACAS + + +For nearly two years before this explosion earthquakes had been common, +and sea and land had been agitated from the valley of the Mississippi to +the coasts of Venezuela and the mountains of New Grenada, and from the +Azores to the West Indies. On March 26, 1812, these culminated in the +terrible tragedy, spoken of above, of which Humboldt gives us a vivid +account. + +On that day the people of the Venezuelan city of Caracas were assembled +in the churches, beneath a still and blazing sky, when the earth +suddenly heaved and shook, like a great monster waking from slumber, +and in a single minute 10,000 people were buried beneath the walls of +churches and houses, which tumbled in hideous ruin upon their heads. The +same earthquake made itself felt along the whole line of the Northern +Cordilleras, working terrible destruction, and shook the earth as far +as Santa Fe de Bogota and Honda, 180 leagues from Caracas. This was a +preliminary symptom of the internal disorder of the earth. + +While the wretched inhabitants of Caracas who had escaped the earthquake +were dying of fever and starvation, and seeking among villages and +farms places of safety from the renewed earthquake shocks, the almost +forgotten volcano of St. Vincent was muttering in suppressed wrath. For +twelve months it had given warning, by frequent shocks of the earth, +that it was making ready to play its part in the great subterranean +battle. On the 27th of April its deep-hidden powers broke their bonds, +and the conflict between rock and fire began. + + +THE MOUNTAIN STONES A HERD-BOY + + +The first intimation of the outbreak was rather amusing than alarming. +A negro boy was herding cattle on the mountain side. A stone fell near +him. Another followed. He fancied that some other boys were pelting him +from the cliff above, and began throwing stones upward at his fancied +concealed tormentors. But the stones fell thicker, among them some too +large to be thrown by any human hand. Only then did the little fellow +awake to the fact that it was not a boy like himself, but the mighty +mountain, that was flinging these stones at him. He looked up and saw +that the black column which was rising from the crater’s mouth was no +longer harmless vapor, but dust, ashes and stones. Leaving the cattle to +their fate, he fled for his life, while the mighty cannon of the Titans +roared behind him as he ran. For three days and nights this continued; +then, on the 30th, a stream of lava poured over the crater’s rim and +rushed downward, reaching the sea in four hours, and the great eruption +was at an end. + +On the same day, says Humboldt, at a distance of more than 200 leagues, +“the inhabitants not only of Caracas, but of Calabozo, situated in +the midst of the Lianos, over a space of 4,000 square leagues, were +terrified by a subterranean noise which resembled frequent discharges of +the heaviest cannon. It was accompanied by no shock, and, what is very +remarkable, was as loud on the coast as at eighty leagues’ distance +inland, and at Caracas, as well as at Calabozo, preparations were made +to put the place in defence against an enemy who seemed to be advancing +with heavy artillery.” + +It was no enemy that man could deal with. Fortunately, it confined its +assault to deep noises, and desisted from earthquake shocks. Similar +noises were heard in Martinique and Guadeloupe, and here also without +shocks. The internal thunder was the signal of what was taking place on +St. Vincent. With this last warning sound the trouble, which had lasted +so long, was at an end. The earthquakes which for two years had shaken +a sheet of the earth’s surface larger than half Europe, were stilled by +the eruption of St. Vincent’s volcanic peak. + + +BARBADOS COVERED WITH ASHES + + +Northeast of the original crater of the Soufriere a new one was formed +which was a half mile in diameter and five hundred feet deep. The old +crater was in time transformed into a beautiful blue lake, as above +stated, walled in by ragged cliffs to a height of eight hundred feet. + +It was looked upon as a remarkable circumstance that although the air +was perfectly calm during the eruption, Barbados, which is ninety-five +miles to the windward, was covered inches deep with ashes. The +inhabitants there and on other neighboring islands were terrified by the +darkness, which continued for four hours and a half. Troops were called +under arms, the supposition from the continued noise being that hostile +fleets were in an engagement. + +The movement of the ashes to windward, as just stated, was viewed as a +remarkable phenomenon, and is cited by Elise Reclus, in “The Ocean,” to +show the force of different aerial currents; “On the first day of May, +1812, when the northeast trade-wind was in all its force, enormous +quantities of ashes obscured the atmosphere above the Island of +Barbados, and covered the ground with a thick layer. One would have +supposed that they came from the volcanoes of the Azores, which were +to the northeast; nevertheless they were cast up by the crater in St. +Vincent, one hundred miles to the west. It is therefore certain that the +debris had been hurled, by the force of the eruption, above the moving +sheet of the trade-winds into an aerial river proceeding in a contrary +direction.” For this it must have been hurled miles high into the air, +till caught by the current of the anti-trade winds. + + +KINGSLEY’S VISIT TO SAINT VINCENT + + +From Charles Kingsley’s “At Last” we extract, from the account of the +visit of the author to St. Vincent, some interesting matter concerning +the 1812 eruption and its effect on the mountain; also its influence +upon distant Barbados, as just stated. + +“The strangest fact about this eruption was, that the mountain did not +make use of its old crater. The original vent must have become so jammed +and consolidated, in the few years between 1785 and 1812, that it could +not be reopened, even by a steam force the vastness of which may be +guessed at from the vastness of the area which it had shaken for +two years. So, when the eruption was over, it was found that the old +crater-lake, incredible as it may seem, remained undisturbed, so far +as has been ascertained; but close to it, and separated only by a +knife-edge of rock some 700 feet in height, and so narrow that, as I +was assured by one who had seen it, it is dangerous to crawl along it, +a second crater, nearly as large as the first, had been blasted out, the +bottom of which, in like manner, was afterward filled with water. + +“I regretted much that I could not visit it. Three points I longed +to ascertain carefully--the relative heights of the water in the two +craters; the height and nature of the spot where the lava stream issued; +and, lastly, if possible, the actual causes of the locally famous +Rabacca, or ‘Dry River,’ one of the largest streams in the island, +which was swallowed up during the eruption, at a short distance from its +source, leaving its bed an arid gully to this day. But it could not be, +and I owe what little I know of the summit of the soufriere principally +to a most intelligent and gentleman-like young Wesleyan minister, whose +name has escaped me. He described vividly, as we stood together on the +deck, looking up at the volcano, the awful beauty of the twin lakes, and +of the clouds which, for months together, whirl in and out of the cups +in fantastic shapes before the eddies of the trade wind. + + +BLACK SUNDAY AT BARBADOS + + +“The day after the explosion, ‘Black Sunday,’ gave a proof of, though no +measure of, the enormous force which had been exerted. Eighty miles to +windward lies Barbados. All Saturday a heavy cannonading had been heard +to the eastward. The English and French fleets were surely engaged. The +soldiers were called out; the batteries manned; but the cannonade died +away, and all went to bed in wonder. On the 1st of May the clocks struck +six, but the sun did not, as usual in the tropics, answer to the call. +The darkness was still intense, and grew more intense as the morning +wore on. A slow and silent rain of impalpable dust was falling over the +whole island. The negroes rushed shrieking into the streets. Surely the +last day was come. The white folk caught (and little blame to them) the +panic, and some began to pray who had not prayed for years. The pious +and the educated (and there were plenty of both in Barbados) were not +proof against the infection. Old letters describe the scene in the +churches that morning as hideous--prayers, sobs, and cries, in Stygian +darkness, from trembling crowds. And still the darkness continued and +the dust fell. + + +INCIDENTS AT BARBADOS + + +“I have a letter written by one long since dead, who had at least powers +of description of no common order, telling how, when he tried to go out +of his house upon the east coast, he could not find the trees on his own +lawn save by feeling for their stems. He stood amazed not only in utter +darkness, but in utter silence; for the trade-wind had fallen dead, +the everlasting roar of the surf was gone, and the only noise was the +crashing of branches, snapped by the weight of the clammy dust. He went +in again, and waited. About one o’clock the veil began to lift; a +lurid sunlight stared in from the horizon, but all was black overhead. +Gradually the dust drifted away; the island saw the sun once more, and +saw itself inches deep in black, and in this case fertilizing, dust. The +trade-wind blew suddenly once more out of the clear east, and the surf +roared again along the shore. + +“Meanwhile a heavy earthquake-wave had struck part at least of the +shores of Barbados. The gentleman on the east coast, going out, found +traces of the sea, and boats and logs washed up some ten to twenty feet +above high-tide mark; a convulsion which seemed to have gone unmarked +during the general dismay. + +“One man at least, an old friend of John Hunter, Sir Joseph Banks and +others their compeers, was above the dismay, and the superstitious panic +which accompanied it. Finding it still dark when he rose to dress, he +opened (so the story used to run) his window; found it stick, and felt +upon the sill a coat of soft powder. ‘The volcano in St. Vincent has +broken out at last,’ said the wise man, ‘and this is the dust of it.’ So +he quieted his household and his negroes, lighted his candles, and went +to his scientific books, in that delight, mingled with an awe not the +less deep, because it is rational and self-possessed, with which he, +like the other men of science, looked at the wonders of this wondrous +world.” + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +Submarine Volcanoes and their Work of Island Building. + + +In November, 1867, a volcano suddenly began to show signs of activity +beneath the deep sea of the Pacific Ocean. There are some islands nearly +two thousands miles to the east of Australia called the Navigator’s +Group, in which there had been no history of an eruption, nor had such +an event been handed down by tradition. Most of the islands in the +Pacific Ocean are old volcanoes, or are made up of rocks cast forth from +extinct burning mountains. They rise up like peaks through the +great depths of the ocean, and the top, which just appears above the +sea-level, is generally encircled by a growth of coral. Hence they are +termed coral islands. These islands every now and then rise higher than +the sea-level, owing to some deep upheaving force, and then the coral is +lifted up above the water, and become a solid rock. But occasionally the +reverse of this takes place, and the islands begin to sink into the +sea, owing to a force which causes the base of the submarine mountain +to become depressed. Sometimes they disappear. All this shows that some +great disturbing forces are in action at the bottom of the sea, and just +within the earth’s crust, and that they are of a volcanic nature. + +For some time before the eruption in question, earthquakes shook the +surrounding islands of the Navigator’s Group, and caused great alarm, +and when the trembling of the earth was very great, the sea began to be +agitated near one of the islands, and vast circles of disturbed water +were formed. Soon the water began to be forced upwards, and dead fish +were seen floating about. After a while, steam rushed forth, and jets of +mud and volcanic sand. Moreover, when the steam began to rush up out of +the water, the violence of the general agitation of the land and of the +surface of the sea increased. + + +AN ERUPTION DESCRIBED + + +When the eruption was at its height vast columns of mud and masses of +stone rushed into the air to a height of 2,000 feet, and the fearful +crash of masses of rock hurled upwards and coming in collision with +others which were falling attested the great volume of ejected matter +which accumulated in the bed of the ocean, although no trace of a +volcano could be seen above the surface of the sea. Similar submarine +volcanic action has been observed in the Atlantic Ocean, and crews of +ships have reported that they have seen in different places sulphurous +smoke, flame, jets of water, and steam, rising up from the sea, or they +have observed the waters greatly discolored and in a state of violent +agitation, as if boiling in large circles. + +New shoals have also been encountered, or a reef of rocks just emerging +above the surface, where previously there was always supposed to have +been deep water. On some few occasions, the gradual building up of an +island by submarine volcanoes has been observed, as that of Sabrina in +1181, off St. Michael’s, in the Azores. The throwing up of ashes in this +case, and the formation of a conical hill 300 feet high, with a crater +out of which spouted lava and steam, took place very rapidly. But the +waves had the best of it, and finally washed Sabrina into the depths of +the ocean. Previous eruptions in the same part of the sea were recorded +as having happened in 1691 and 1720. + +In 1831, a submarine volcanic eruption occurred in the Mediterranean +Sea, between Sicily and that part of the African coast where Carthage +formerly stood. A few years before, Captain Smyth had sounded the +spot in a survey of the sea ordered by Government, and he found the +sea-bottom to be under 500 feet of water. On June 28, about a fortnight +before the eruption was visible, Sir Pulteney Malcom, in passing over +the spot in his ship, felt the shock of an earthquake as if he had +struck on a sandbank, and the same shocks were felt on the west coast of +Sicily, in a direction from south-west to north-east. + + +BUILDING UP OF AN ISLAND BY SUBMARINE VOLCANOES + + +About July 10, the captain of a Sicilian vessel reported that as he +passed near the place he saw a column of water like a waterspout, sixty +feet high, and 800 yards in circumference, rising from the sea, and soon +after a dense rush of steam in its place, which ascended to the height +of 1,800 feet. The same captain, on his return eighteen days after, +found a small island twelve feet high, with a crater in its centre, +throwing forth volcanic matter and immense columns of vapor, the sea +around being covered with floating cinders and dead fish. The eruption +continued with great violence to the end of the same month. By the end +of the month the island grew to ninety feet in height, and measured +three-quarters of a mile round. By August 4th it became 200 feet high +and three miles in circumference; after which it began to diminish in +size by the action of the waves. Towards the end of October the island +was levelled nearly to the surface of the sea. + +Naval officers and foreign ministers alike took an absorbing interest +in this new island. The strong national thirst for territory manifested +itself and eager mariners waited only till the new land should be cool +enough to set foot on to strive who should be first to plant there +his country’s flag. Names in abundance were given it by successive +observers,--Nerita, Sciacca, Fernandina, Julia, Hotham, Corrao, and +Graham. The last holds good in English speech, and as Graham’s Island +it is known in books to-day, though the sea took back what it had given, +leaving but a shoal of cinders and sand. + +The Bay of Santorin, in the island of that name, which lies immediately +to the north of Crete, has long been noted for its submarine volcanoes. +According to one account, indeed, the whole island was at a remote +period raised from the bottom of the sea; but this is questionable. It +is, with more reason, supposed that the bay is the site of an ancient +crater, which was situated on the summit of a volcanic cone that +subsequently fell in. Certain it is that islands have from time to time +been thrown up by volcanic forces from the bottom of the sea within this +bay, and that some of them have remained, while others have sunk again. + + +HOW AN ISLAND GREW + + +Of the existing islands, some were thrown up shortly before the +beginning of the Christian era; in particular, one called the Great +Cammeni, which, however, received a considerable accession to its size +by a fresh eruption in A. D. 726. The islet nearest Santorin was raised +in 1573, and was named the Little Cammeni; and in 1707 there was added, +between the other two, a third, which is now called the Black Island. +This made its appearance above water on the 23rd of May, 1707, and was +first mistaken for a wreck; but some sailors, who landed on it, found +it to be a mass of rock; consisting of a very white soft stone, to which +were adhering quantities of fresh oysters. While they were collecting +these, a violent shaking of the ground scared them away. + +During several weeks the island gradually increased in volume; but in +July, at a distance of about sixty paces from the new islet, there was +thrown up a chain of black calcined rocks, followed by volumes of thick +black smoke, having a sulphurous smell. A few days thereafter the water +all around the spot became hot, and many dead fishes were thrown up. +Then, with loud subterraneous noises, flames arose, and fresh quantities +of stones and other substances were ejected, until the chain of black +rocks became united to the first islet that had appeared. This eruption +continued for a long time, there being thrown out quantities of ashes +and pumice, which covered the island of Santorin and the surface of the +sea--some being drifted to the coasts of Asia Minor and the Dardanelles. +The activity of this miniature volcano was prolonged, with greater or +less energy, for about ten years. + +In 1866 similar phenomena took place in the Bay of Santorin, beginning +with underground sounds and slight shocks of earthquake, which were +followed by the appearance of flames on the surface of the sea. Soon +after there arose, out of a dense smoke, a small islet, which gradually +increased until in a week’s time it was 60 feet high, 200 long and 90 +wide. The people of Santorin named it “George,” in honor of the King of +Greece. In another week it joined and became continuous with the Little +Cammeni. The detonations increased in loudness, and large quantities of +incandescent stones were thrown up from the crater. + +About the same time, at the distance of nearly 150 feet from the coast, +to the westward of a point called Cape Phlego, there rose from the sea +another island, to which was given the name of Aphroessa. It sank and +reappeared several times before it established itself above water. The +detonations and ejection of incandescent lava and stones continued at +intervals during three weeks. From the crater of the islet George, which +attained a height of 150 feet, some stones several cubic yards in bulk +were projected to a great distance. One of them falling on board of a +merchant vessel, killed the captain and set fire to the ship. + +By the 10th of March the eruptions had partially subsided, but were then +renewed, and a third island, which was named Reka, rose alongside of +Aphroessa. They were at first separated by a channel sixty feet deep; +but in three days this was filled up, and the two islets became united. + +Reference may properly be made here to Monte Nuovo and Jorullo, not that +they appertain to the present subject, but that they form examples of +the action of similar forces, in the one instance exerted on a lake +bottom, in the other on dry land, each yielding permanent volcanic +elevations in every respect analogous to those which rise as islands +from the bottom of the sea. + + +IN THE ICELANDIC SEAS + + +Off the coast of Iceland islands have appeared during several of +the volcanic eruptions which that remote dependency of Denmark has +manifested, and at various periods in Iceland’s history the sea has been +covered with pumice and other debris, which tell their own tale of what +has been going on, without being in sufficient quantity to reach the +surface in the form of an island mass. The sea off Reykjanes--Smoky +Cape, as the name means--has been a frequent scene of these submarine +eruptions. In 1240, during what the Icelandic historians describe as +the eighth outburst, a number of islets were formed, though most of them +subsequently disappeared, only to have their places occupied by others +born at a later date. In 1422 high rocks of considerable circumference +appeared. In 1783, about a month before the eruption of Skaptar Jokull, +a volcanic island named Nyoe, from which fire and smoke issued, was +built up. But in time it vanished under the waves, all that remains +of it to-day being a reef from five to thirty-five fathoms below the +sea-level. In 1830, after several long-continued eruptions of the usual +character, another isle arose; while at the same time the skerries known +as the Geirfuglaska disappeared, and with them vanished the great auks, +or gare-fowls--birds now extinct--which up to that time had bred on +them. At all events, though the auks could not well have been drowned, +no traces of them were seen after the date mentioned. In July, 1884, an +island again appeared about ten miles off Reykjanes; but it is already +beginning to diminish in size, and may soon disappear. + + +OFF THE COAST OF ALASKA + + +Elsewhere in the region of the northern seas there are other instances +of the influence of the submarine forces in raising up and lowering +land. The coast of Alaska is a region of intense volcanic action. In +1795, during a period of volcanic activity in the craters of Makushina, +on Unalaska, and in others on Umnak Island, a volume of smoke was seen +to rise out of the sea about 42 miles to the north of Unalaska, and +the next year it was followed by a heap of cindery material, from which +arose flame and volcanic matter, the glow being visible over a radius +of ten miles. In four years the island grew into a large cone, 3000 feet +above the sea-level, and two or three miles in circumference. Two years +later it was still so hot that when some hunters landed on it they found +the soil too warm for walking. It was named Ionna Bogoslova (St. John +the Theologian), by the Russians, Agashagok by the Aleuts, and is now +known to the whites of that region as Bogosloff. Mr. Dall believes +that it occupies the site of some rocks that existed there as long as +tradition extends. + +There were additions to the cone up to the year 1823, when it became so +quiescent as to be the favorite haunt of seals and sea-fowls, and, +when the weather was favorable, was visited by native egg-hunters +from Unalaska. During the summer of 1883 Bogosloff was again seen +in eruption, as it was thought. However, on closely examining the +neighborhood, it was found that the old island was undisturbed, but that +there had been a fresh eruption, which had resulted in the extension of +Bogosloff by the appearance of a cone and crater (Hague Volcano), 357 +feet high, connected with the parent island by a low sand-spit, and +situated in a spot where, the year before, the lead showed 800 fathoms +of water. At the same time Augustin and two other previously quiet +islands on the peninsula of Alaska began simultaneously to emit smoke, +dust and ashes, while a reef running westward and formerly submerged +became elevated to the sea surface. Other islands, of origin exactly +similar to Bogosloff and those mentioned, are to be found in this +region, notably Koniugi and Kasatochi, in the western Aleutians, +and Pinnacle Island, near St. Matthew Island. Indeed, the volcano of +Kliutchevsk, which rises to a height of over 15,000 feet, is really a +volcanic island. + +A permanent addition was made to the Aleutian group of Islands by the +action of a submarine volcano in 1806. This new island has the form of +a volcanic peak, with several subsidiary cones. It is four geographical +miles in circumference. In 1814 another arose out of the sea in the same +archipelago, the cone of which attained a height of 3,000 feet; but at +the end of a year it lost a portion of this elevation. + +In 1856, in the sea in the same neighborhood, Captain Newell, of the +whaling bark Alice Fraser, witnessed a submarine eruption, which was +also seen by the crews of several other vessels. There was no island +formed on this occasion, but large jets of water were thrown up, and the +sea was greatly agitated all around. Then followed volcanic smoke, and +quantities of stones, ashes, and pumice; the two latter being scattered +over the surface of the sea to a great distance. Loud thundering reports +accompanied this eruption, and all the ships in the neighborhood felt +concussions like those produced by an earthquake. These phenomena seem +to have ended in the formation of some great submarine chasm, into which +the waters rushed with extreme violence and a terrific roar. + +Occurrences similar to this last have been several times observed in +a tract of open sea in the Atlantic, about half a degree south of the +equator, and between 20 and 22 degrees of west longitude. Although +quantities of volcanic dross have been from time to time thrown up to +the surface in this region, no island has yet made its appearance above +water. + +The events here described repeat on a far smaller scale similar ones +which have occurred in remote ages in many parts of the ocean and left +great island masses as the permanent effects of their work. We may +instance the Hawaiian group, which is wholly of volcanic origin, with +the exception of its minor coral additions, and represents a stupendous +activity of underground agencies beneath the domain of Father Neptune. + +In part, as we have said elsewhere in this work, all oceanic islands, +remote from those in the shoal bordering waters of the continents, have +been of volcanic or coral formation, or more often a combination of the +two. No sooner does an island mass appear above or near the surface of +tropical waters than the minute coral animals--effective only by their +myriads--begin their labors, building fringes of coral rock around +the cindery heaps lifted from the ocean floor. The atolls of the +Pacific--circular or oval rings of coral with lagunes of sea-water +within--have long been thought to be built on the rims of submarine +volcanoes, rising to within a few hundred feet of the surface, much +as coral reefs around actual islands. If the volcanic mass should +subsequently subside, as it is likely to do, the minute ocean builders +will continue their work--unless the subsidence be too rapid for their +powers of production--and in this way ring-like islands of coral may +in time rise from great depths of sea, their basis being the volcanic +island which has sunk from near the surface far toward old ocean’s +primal floor. + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +Mud Volcanoes, Geysers, and Hot Springs. + + +Our usual impression of a volcano is indicated in the title of “burning +mountain,” so often employed, a great fire-spouting cone of volcanic +debris, from which steam, lava, rock-masses, cinder-like fragments, and +dust, often of extreme fineness, are flung high into the air or flow +in river-like torrents of molten rock. This, no doubt, applies in the +majority of cases, but the volcanic forces do not confine themselves to +these magnificent displays of energy, nor are their products limited to +those above specified. We have seen that mud is a not uncommon product, +due to the mingling of water with volcanic dust, while water alone is +occasionally emitted, of which we have a marked instance in the Volcan +de Agua, of Guatemala, already mentioned. As regards mud flows, we may +specially instance the first outflow from Mont Pelee, that by which the +Guerin sugar works were overwhelmed. + +The imprisoned forces of the earth have still other modes of +manifestation. A very frequent one of these, and the most destructive to +human life of them all, is the earthquake. + +Minor manifestations of volcanic action may be seen in the geyser and +the hot spring, the latter the most widely disseminated of all the +resultant effects of the heated condition of the earth’s interior. It +is these displays of subterranean energy, differing from those usually +termed volcanic, yet due to the same general causes, that we have next +to consider. And it may be premised that their manifestations, while, +except in the case of the earthquake, less violent, are no less +interesting, especially as the minor displays are free from that peril +to human life which renders the major ones so terrible. + +While the largest volcanoes at times pour out rivers of liquid mud, +there are volcanoes from which nothing is ever ejected but mud and +water, the latter being generally salt. From this circumstance they +are sometimes called salses, but they are more generally termed +mud-volcanoes. Some varieties of them throw out little else than gases +of different sorts, and these are called air-volcanoes. + + +THE GREAT MUD VOLCANO OF SICILY + + +One of the best known mud-volcanoes is at Macaluba, near Girgenti, in +Sicily. It consists of several conical mounds, varying from time to time +in their form and height, which ranges from eight to thirty feet. From +orifices on the tops of these mounds there are thrown out sometimes jets +of warmish water and mud mixed with bitumen, sometimes bubbles of +gas, chiefly carbonic acid and carburetted hydrogen, occasionally pure +nitrogen. The mud ejected has often a strong sulphurous smell. The jets +in general ascend only to a moderate height; but occasionally they are +thrown up with great violence, attaining a height of about 200 feet. +In 1777 there was ejected an immense column, consisting of mud strongly +impregnated with sulphur and mixed with naphtha and stones, accompanied +also by quantities of sulphurous vapors. This mud-volcano is known to +have been in action for fifteen centuries. + +Very recently a small mud-volcano has been formed on the flanks of Mount +Etna. It began with the throwing up of jets of boiling water, mixed with +petroleum and mud, great quantities of gas bubbling up at the same time. +In several of the valleys of Iceland there are similar phenomena, the +boiling water and mud being thrown up in jets to the height of fifteen +feet and upwards, the mud accumulating around the orifices whence the +jets arise. + +A mud-volcano named Korabetoff, in the Crimea, presents phenomena more +akin to those of the igneous volcanoes of South America. There was an +eruption from this mountain on the 6th of August, 1853. It began by +throwing up from the summit a column of fire and smoke, which ascended +to a great height. This continued for five or six minutes, and was +followed at short intervals by two similar eruptions. There was then +ejected with a hissing noise a quantity of black fetid mud, which was so +hot as to scorch the grass on the edges of the stream. The mud continued +to pour out for three hours, covering a wide space at the mountain’s +base. The mud-volcanoes on the coast of Beloochistan are very numerous, +and extend over an area of nearly a thousand square miles. Their action +resembles that at Macaluba. + + +THE MUD VOLCANO OF JAVA + + +There is a mud volcano in Java which is of interest as somewhat +resembling the geyser in its mode of operation and apparently due to +similar agencies. It is thus described by Dr. Horsfield:-- + +“On approaching it from a distance, it is first discovered by a large +volume of smoke, rising and disappearing at intervals of a few seconds, +resembling the vapors rising from a violent surf. A loud noise is heard, +like that of distant thunder. Having advanced so near that the vision +was no longer impeded by the smoke, a large hemispherical mass was +observed, consisting of black earth mixed with water, about sixteen +feet in diameter, rising to the height of twenty or thirty feet in +a perfectly regular manner, and as if it were pushed up by a force +beneath, which suddenly exploded with a loud noise, and scattered about +a volume of black mud in every direction. After an interval of two or +three, or sometimes four or five seconds, the hemispherical body of mud +rose and exploded again. In the manner stated this volcanic ebullition +goes on without interruption, throwing up a globular body of mud, and +dispersing it with violence through the neighboring plain. The spot +where the ebullition occurs is nearly circular, and perfectly level. It +is covered only with the earthy particles, impregnated with salt water, +which are thrown up from below. The circumference may be estimated at +about half an English mile. In order to conduct the salt water to the +circumference, small passages or gutters are made in the loose muddy +earth, which lead to the borders, where it is collected in holes dug in +the ground for the purpose of evaporation.” + +The mud has a strong, pungent, sulphurous smell, resembling that of +mineral oil, and is hotter than the surrounding atmosphere. During the +rainy season the explosions increase in violence. + +There are submarine mud volcanoes as well as those of igneous kind. In +1814 one of this character broke out in the Sea of Azof, beginning with +flame and black smoke, accompanied by earth and stones, which were flung +to a great height. Ten of these explosions occurred, and, after a period +of rest, others were heard during the night. The next morning there +was visible above the water an island of mud some ten feet high. A very +similar occurrence took place in 1827, near Baku, in the Caspian sea. +This began with a flaming display and the ejection of great fragments of +rock. An eruption of mud succeeded. A set of small volcanoes discovered +by Humboldt in Turbaco, in South America, confined their emissions +almost wholly to gases, chiefly nitrogen. + +There is a close connection in character between mud volcanoes and +those intermittent boiling springs named geysers. A good many of the mud +volcanoes throw out jets of boiling water along with the mud; but in +the case of the geysers, the boiling water is ejected alone, without +any visible impregnation, though some mineral in solution, as silica, +carbonate of lime, or sulphur, is usually present. + + +THE GEYSER IS A WATER VOLCANO + + +The phenomenon of the geyser serves in a measure to support the theory +that steam is an important agent in volcanic action. A geyser, in fact, +may be designated as a water volcano, since it throws up water only. It +comprises a cone or mound, usually only a few feet high. In the middle +of this is a crater-like opening with a passage leading down into the +earth. As in the case of the volcano, the geyser cone is built up by its +own action. In the boiling water which is ejected there is dissolved a +certain amount of silica. As the water falls and cools this mineral is +deposited, gradually building up a cup-like elevation. The basin of the +geyser is generally full of clear water, with a little steam rising +from its surface; but at intervals an eruption takes place, sometimes at +regular periods, but more often at irregular intervals. + +Among the largest and best known geysers in the world are those of +Iceland, chief among them being the Great Geyser. Silica is the +mineral with which the waters of this fountain are impregnated, and +the substance which they deposit, as they slowly evaporate, is named +siliceous sinter. Of this material is composed the mound, six or seven +feet high, on which the spring is situated. On the top of the mound is +a large oval basin, about three feet in depth, measuring in its larger +diameter about fifty-six, and in its shorter about forty-six feet. The +centre of this basin is occupied by a circular well about ten feet in +diameter, and between seventy and eighty feet deep. + +Out of the central well springs a jet of boiling water, at intervals of +six or seven hours. When the fountain is at rest, both the basin and the +well appear quite empty, and no steam is seen. But on the approach of +the moment for action, the water rises in the well, till it flows over +into the basin. Then loud subterranean explosions are heard, and the +ground all round is violently shaken. + +Instantly, and with immense force, a steaming jet of boiling water, of +the full width of the well, springs up and ascends to a great height +in the air. The top of this large column of water is enveloped in vast +clouds of steam, which diffuse themselves through the air, rendering it +misty. These jets succeed each other with great rapidity to the number +of sixteen or eighteen, the period of action of the fountain being about +five minutes. The last of the jets generally ascends to the greatest +height, usually to about 100, but sometimes to 150 feet; on one occasion +it rose to the great height of 212 feet. Having ejected this great +column of water, the action ceases, and the water that had filled the +basin sinks down into the well. There it remains till the time for the +next eruption, when the same phenomena are repeated. It has been found +that, by throwing large stones into the well, the period of the eruption +may be hastened, while the loudness of the explosions and the violence +of the fountain effect are increased, the stones being at the same time +ejected with great force. + + +ERUPTION CAN BE INDUCED BY ARTIFICIAL MEANS + + +Geysers are found all over the island, presenting various peculiarities. +In the case of one of the smaller ones, which is called Strokr, or the +Churn, an eruption can be induced by artificial means. A barrow-load of +sods is thrown into the crater of the geyser, with the effect of causing +an eruption. The sensitiveness of Strokr is due to its peculiar form. +An observer states that, “The bore is eight feet in diameter at the +top, and forty-four feet deep. Below twenty-seven feet it contracts to +nineteen inches, so that the turf thrown in completely chokes it. Steam +collects below; a foaming scum covers the surface of the water, and in +a quarter of an hour it surges up the pipe. The fountain then begins +playing, sending its bundles of jets rather higher than those of +the Great Geyser, flinging up the clods of turf which have been its +obstruction like a number of rockets. This magnificent display continues +for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. The erupted water flows +back into the pipe from the curved sides of the bowl. This occasions a +succession of bursts, the last expiring effort, very generally, being +the most magnificent. Strokr gives no warning thumps, like the Great +Geyser, and there is not the same roaring of steam accompanying the +outbreak of the water.” + +The same author thus describes an eruption of the Great Geyser, which +occurred about two o’clock in the morning: “A violent concussion of the +ground brought me and my companions to our feet. We rushed out of the +tent in every condition of dishabille and were in time to see Geyser put +forth his full strength. Five strokes underground were the signal, then +an overflow, wetting every side of the mound. Presently a dome of +water rose in the centre of the basin and fell again, immediately to +be followed by a fresh bell, which sprang into the air fully forty feet +high, accompanied by a roaring burst of steam. Instantly the fountain +began to play with the utmost violence, a column rushing up to the +height of ninety or one hundred feet against the gray night sky, with +mighty volumes of white steam cloud rolling after it and swept off by +the breeze to fall in torrents of hot rain. Jets and lines of water tore +their way through the clouds, or leaped high above its domed mass. The +earth trembled and throbbed during the explosion, then the column sank, +started up again, dropped once more, and seemed to be sucked back into +the earth. We ran to the basin, which was left dry, and looked down the +bore at the water, which was bubbling at the depth of six feet.” + +In the case of Strokr, the cause of this eruption is not difficult to +understand. The narrow part of the channel is choked up by the turf and +the steam, and prevented from escaping. Finally it gains such force as +to drive out the obstacle with a violent explosion, just as a bottle +of fermenting liquor may blow out the cork and discharge some of its +contents. + +Geysers are somewhat abundant phenomena, existing in many parts of the +earth, while striking examples of them are found in the widely separated +regions of Iceland, New Zealand, Japan and the western United States. +In the volcanic region of New Zealand geysers and their associated hot +springs are abundant. It was to their action that we owed the famous +white and pink terraces and the warm lake of Rotomahana which were +ruined by the destructive eruption of Mount Tarawera, already described. + + +GEYSERS OF THE UNITED STATES + + +The United States is abundantly supplied with hot springs, but geysers, +outside of the Yellowstone region, are found only in California and +Nevada. Those of California exist chiefly in Napa Valley, north of San +Francisco, in a canon or defile. Their waters are impregnated not with +silica, but with sulphur, and they thus approach more nearly in their +character to mud-volcanoes, whose ejections are, in like manner, much +impregnated with that substance. They are also, like them, collected in +groups, there being no less than one hundred openings within a space of +flat ground a mile square. Owing to their number and proximity, their +individual energy is nothing like so violent as that of the geysers of +Iceland. Their jets seldom rise higher than 20 or 30 feet; but so great +a number playing within so confined a space produces an imposing effect. +The jets of boiling water issue with a loud noise from little conical +mounds, around which the ground is merely a crust of sulphur. When this +crust is penetrated, the boiling water may be seen underneath. The rocks +in the neighborhood of these fountains are all corroded by the action of +the sulphurous vapors. Nevertheless, within a distance of not more than +50 feet from them, trees grow without injury to their health. + +Few of these fountains, however, are regular geysers, most of them +discharging only steam. From the Steamboat Geyser this ascends to a +height of from 50 to 100 feet, with a roar like that of the escape +from a steamboat boiler. Associated with the geysers are numerous hot +springs, some clear, some turbid, and variously impregnated with +iron, sulphur or alum. In Nevada the Steamboat Springs, as they are +designated, exist in Washoe Valley, east of the Virginian range. They +come nearer in character to the Yellowstone geysers, their waters +depositing true geyserite, or silicious concretions. The Volcano +Springs, in Lauder County, are also true geysers, though of small +importance. The ground here is so thickly perforated by holes from which +steam escapes that it looks like a cullender. + + +THE YELLOWSTONE GEYSERS + + +The most remarkable geyser country in the world, alike for the size and +the number of its spouting fountains, is the Yellowstone region in the +northwest part of the Territory of Wyoming, in the United States, which, +by a special act of Congress, has been reserved as the Yellowstone +National Park, exempt from settlement, purchase or preemption. Here +nearly every form of geyser and unintermittent hot spring occurs, +with deposits of various kinds, silicious, calcareous, etc. Of the +hot springs, Dr. Peale enumerates 2,195, and considers that within the +limits of the park--which is about 54 miles by 62 miles, and includes +3,312 square miles--as many as 3,000 actually exist. The same geologist +notes the existence of 71 geysers in the area mentioned, though some +of the number are only inferred to be spouting springs from the form of +their basins and the character of the surrounding deposits. Of this +vast collection of still and eruptive springs, between which there seems +every gradation, those which do not send water into the air are, owing +to the magnificent cascades which they form, often quite as remarkable +as those which take the shape of geysers. The more striking of the +latter may, however, be briefly mentioned. + +In the Gibbon Basin is a geyser of late origin. In 1878 this consisted +of two steam holes, roaring on the side of a hill, that looked as if +they had recently burst through the surface; and the gully leading +towards the ravine was at that date filled with sand, which appeared to +have been poured out during an eruption. Dead trees stood on the line of +this sand floor, and others, with their bark still remaining, and +even with their foliage not lost, were uprooted hard by, everything +indicating that the “steamboat vent,” as it was called, was of recent +formation. In 1875 it had no existence, but in 1879 the spouting +spring--which first opened, it is believed, on the 11th of August in the +preceding year--had “settled down to business as a very powerful flowing +geyser,” with a double period; one eruption occurring every half +hour, and projecting water to the height of 30 feet; the main eruption +occurring every six or seven days, with long continued action, and a +column of nearly 100 feet. + +The New Geyser in the same basin is also of quite recent origin. +It consists of two fissures in the rock, in which the water boils +vigorously. But there is no mound, and the rocks of the fissure are just +beginning to get a coating of the silicious geyserite deposited from the +water, so that it cannot long have been spouting. Again, in the Grotto +Geyser--in the Upper Geyser Basin of Fire Hole River--the main or +larger crater is hollowed into fantastic arches, beneath which are +the grotto-like cavities from which it is named, which act as lateral +orifices for the escape of water during an eruption. It plays several +times in the course of the twenty-four hours, and sends a column of +water sixty feet high, the eruption lasting an hour. As yet, however, +the force of the water has not been sufficient, or of sufficiently long +duration, to break through the arches covering the basin or crater. +The Excelsior--claimed to be the largest of its order, which sent water +nearly 300 feet into the air at intervals of about five hours, and of +such volume as to wash away bridges over small streams below--was not, +until comparatively recent years, known as a specially powerful geyser. +But if it had for a time waned in importance, its immense crater, 330 +feet in length and 200 feet at the widest part, shows that at a still +earlier date it was a gigantic fountain. In this deep pit, when the +breeze wafted aside the clouds of steam constantly arising from its +surface, the water could be seen seething 15 or 20 feet below the +surrounding level. Yet into the cauldron of boiling water a little +stream of cold water, from the melting snow of the uplands, ran +unceasingly. Since 1888 this great geyser has been inactive. + +The Castle Geyser is so named on account of the fancied resemblance +which its mound of white and grey deposit presents to the ruins of a +feudal keep, the crater itself being placed on a cone or turret, which +has a somewhat imposing appearance compared with the other geysers in +the neighborhood. It throws a column usually about fifty or sixty feet +high, at intervals of two or three hours, but sometimes the discharge +shoots up much higher. + +The Giant, in the Upper Geyser Basin, has a peculiar crater, which +has been likened to the stump of a hollow sycamore tree of gigantic +proportions, whose top has been wrenched off by a storm. This curious +cup is broken down at one side, as though it had been torn away during +an eruption of more than ordinary violence, and on this side the visitor +is able to look into the crater, if he can contrive to avoid the jets +which are constantly spouted from it. The periods of rest which it takes +are varied, an eruption often not occurring for several days at a time; +yet when it breaks out it continues playing for more than three hours, +with a volume of water reaching a height of from 130 to 140 feet. In the +interval little spouts are constantly in progress. Mr. Stanley saw one +eruption which he calculated to have shot a column of water to the +height of more than 200 feet. At first it seemed as though the geyser +was only making a feint, the discharge which preceded the great one +being merely repeated several times, followed by a cessation both of +the rumbling noises and of the ejection of water. But soon, after a +premonitory cloud of steam, the geyser began to work in earnest, +the column discharged rising higher and higher, until it reached the +altitude mentioned. + +“At first it appeared to labor in raising the immense volume, which +seemed loath to start on its heavenward tour; but it was with perfect +ease that the stupendous column was held to its place, the water +breaking into jets and returning in glittering showers to the basin. +The steam ascended in dense volumes for thousands of feet, when it +was freighted on the wings of the winds and borne away in clouds. The +fearful rumble and confusion attending it were as the sound of distant +artillery, the rushing of many horses to battle, or the roar of a +fearful tornado. It commenced to act at 2 P. M., and continued for an +hour and a half, the latter part of which it emitted little else than +steam, rushing upward from its chambers below, of which, if controlled, +there was enough to run an engine of wonderful power. The waving to and +fro of such a gigantic fountain, when the column is at its height, + +‘Tinselled o’er in robes of varying hues,’ + +and glistening in the bright sunlight, which adorns it with the glowing +colors of many a gorgeous rainbow, affords a spectacle so wonderful +and grandly magnificent, so overwhelming to the mind, that the ablest +attempt at description gives the reader who has never witnessed such a +display but a feeble idea of its glory.” + + +A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEYSER AT WORK + + +The only other geysers in this remarkable geyserland which we can spare +room to notice are those known as the Giantess, the Beehive, and the +Grand. The Giantess sends a column of water to the height of 250 feet. +An eruption is usually divided into three periods--two preliminary +efforts and a final one, divided from each other by intervals of between +one and two hours, while the intervals of discharge are very long. +Sometimes it does not play for several weeks. The Beehive, which is 400 +feet from the Giantess, gets its name from the peculiar beehive-like +cone which it has formed. The eruption is also almost unique. It is +heralded by a slight escape of steam, which is followed by a column of +steam and water, shooting to the height of over 200 feet. The column +is somewhat fan-shaped, but it does not fall in rain, the spray being +evaporated and carried off as steam--if, indeed, there is not more steam +than water in the column. The duration of the discharge is between four +and five minutes, and the interval between two eruptions from twenty-one +to twenty-five hours. + +The Grand is one of the most important in the Upper Geyser basin. Yet, +unlike the Grotto, the Giant, or the Old Faithful,--so called from its +frequent and regular eruptions--it has no raised cone or crater, and a +much less cavernous bowl than the Giantess and other geysers. The column +discharged ascends to the height of from eighty to two hundred feet, and +the eruptions last from fifteen minutes to three-quarters of an hour, +with intervals on an average of from seven to twenty hours. This +fountain is apparently very irregular in its action, though it is just +possible that when the Yellowstone geysers have been more consecutively +studied, it will be found that these seeming irregularities depend on +the varying supplies of water at different times of the year. + + +THE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS + + +The marvellous phenomena of the Yellowstone region are not confined +to geyser action, hot springs of steady flow being, as above stated, +exceedingly numerous. Of these the most striking are those known as the +Mammoth Hot Springs, whose waters find their way through underground +passages, finally flowing from an opening as the “Boiling River,” which +empties into the Gardiner River. + +These springs are marvels of beauty. Their terraced bowls, adorned with +delicate fret-work, are among the finest specimens of Nature’s handiwork +in the world, and the colored waters themselves are startling in their +brilliancy. Red, pink, black, canary, green, saffron, blue, chocolate, +and all their intermediate gradations are found here in exquisite +harmony. The springs rise in terraces of various heights and widths, +having intermingled with their delicate shades chalk-like cliffs, soft +and crumbly, these latter being the remains of springs from which the +life and beauty have departed. The great spring is the largest in the +country, the water flowing through three openings into a basin forty +feet long by twenty-five feet wide. From this the hot mineral waters +drip over into lower basins, of gracefully curved and scalloped outline, +the minerals deposited on the lips of the basin forming stalagmites of +variegated hue, yielding a brilliant and beautiful effect. The terraced +basins bear a close resemblance to the former New Zealand pink and white +terraces, and since the annihilation of the latter are the most charming +examples in existence of this rare form of Nature’s artistic handiwork. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The San Francisco Calamity, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY *** + +***** This file should be named 1560-0.txt or 1560-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/6/1560/ + +Produced by Donald Lainson + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/1560-0.zip b/1560-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1cf927c --- /dev/null +++ b/1560-0.zip diff --git a/1560-h.zip b/1560-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a914e03 --- /dev/null +++ b/1560-h.zip diff --git a/1560-h/1560-h.htm b/1560-h/1560-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..84f09e4 --- /dev/null +++ b/1560-h/1560-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,14679 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The San Francisco Calamity by Earthquake and Fire, by Various + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The San Francisco Calamity, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The San Francisco Calamity + +Author: Various + +Editor: Charles Morris + +Release Date: May 3, 2006 [EBook #1560] +Last Updated: November 16, 2016 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY *** + + + + +Produced by Donald Lainson; David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY <br /> BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + </h1> + <h2> + A Complete and Accurate Account of the Fearful Disaster which <br /> + Visited the Great City and the Pacific Coast, the Reign of Panic and <br /> + Lawlessness, the Plight of 300,000 Homeless People and the World-wide + <br /> Rush to the Rescue. + </h2> + <h2> + TOLD BY EYE WITNESSES + </h2> + <h3> + INCLUDING GRAPHIC AND RELIABLE ACCOUNTS OF ALL GREAT EARTHQUAKES AND <br /> + VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS IN THE WORLD’S HISTORY, AND SCIENTIFIC EXPLANATIONS + <br /> OF THEIR CAUSES. + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + EDITED BY CHARLES MORRIS, LL. D. + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + PREFACE + </h2> + <p> + Earthquake and famine, fire and sudden death—these are the + destroyers that men fear when they come singly; but upon the unhappy + people of California they came together, a hideous quartette, to slay + human beings, to blot from existence the wealth that represented prolonged + and strenuous effort, to bring hunger and speechless misery to three + hundred thousand homeless and terror-stricken people. + </p> + <p> + The full measure of the catastrophe can probably never be taken. The + summary cannot be made amid the panic, the confusion, the removal of + ancient landmarks, the complete subversion of the ordinary machinery of + society. When chaos comes, as it did in San Francisco, and all the + channels of familiar life are closed, and human anguish grows to be + intolerable, compilation of statistics is impossible, even if it were not + repugnant to the feelings. And when order is once more restored, after the + lapse of many weeks, months and perhaps years, the details of the calamity + have merged into one undecipherable mass of misery which defies the + analyst and the historian. It is the purpose of this book faithfully to + record the story of these awful days when years were lived in a moment and + to preserve an accurate chronicle of them, not only for the people whose + hearts yearn in sympathy to-day, but for their posterity. + </p> + <p> + Other frightful catastrophes the world has known. The earthquake which + dropped Lisbon into the sea in 1755, and in a moment swallowed up + twenty-five thousand people, was perhaps more awful than the convulsion + which has brought woe to San Francisco. When Krakatoa Mountain, in the + Straits of Sunda, in 1883, split asunder and poured across the land a + mighty wave, in which thirty-six thousand human beings perished, the + results also were more terrible. + </p> + <p> + The whirlwind of fire which consumed St. Pierre, in the Island of + Martinique, and the devastation wrought by Vesuvius a few days previous to + that at San Francisco, need not be used for comparison with the latter + tragedy, but they may be referred to, that we may recall the fact that + this land of ours is not the only one which has suffered. + </p> + <p> + But since the western hemisphere was discovered there has been in this + quarter of the globe no violence of natural forces at all comparable in + destructive fury with that which was manifested upon the Pacific coast. + The only other calamity at all equalling it, or surpassing it, was the + Civil War, and that was the work of the evil passions of man inciting him + to slay his brother, while Nature would have had him live in peace. + </p> + <p> + The earthquake in San Francisco, which crumbled strong buildings as if + they were made of paper, would have been terrible enough; but afterward + came the horror of fire and of imprisoned men and women burned alive, and + now to it was added the suffering of multitudes from hunger and exposure. + </p> + <p> + Public attention is fixed on the great city; but smaller cities had their + days and nights of destruction, horror and misery. Some were almost + destroyed. Others were partly ruined, and beyond their borders, over a + wide area, the trembling of the earth toppled houses, annihilated property + and transformed riches into poverty. The cost in life can be reckoned. The + money loss will never be computed, for the appraised value of the wrecked + property conveys no notion of the consequences of the almost complete + paralysis, for a time, of the commercial operations by means of which men + and women earn their bread. + </p> + <p> + When the weakness and the folly and the sin of men bring woe upon other + men, there are plenty of texts for the preacher and no scarcity of earnest + preachers. But here is a vast and awful catastrophe that befell from an + act of Nature apparently no more extraordinary than the shrinkage of hot + metal in the process of cooling. The consequences are terrifying in this + case because they involve the habitations of half a million people; but, + no doubt, the process goes on somewhere within the earth almost + continuously, and it no more involves the theory of malignant Nature than + that of an angry God. + </p> + <p> + If we contemplate it, possibly we may be helped to a profitable estimate + of our own relative insignificance. We think, with some notion of our + importance, of the thousand million men who live upon the earth; but they + are a mere handful of animate atoms in comparison with the surface, to say + nothing of the solid contents, of the globe itself. + </p> + <p> + We are fond of boasting in this latter day of man’s marvelous success in + subduing the forces of Nature; and, while we are in the midst of + exultation over our victories, Nature tumbles the rocks about somewhere + within the bowels of the earth, and we have to learn the old lesson that + our triumphs have not penetrated farther than to the very outermost rim of + the realms of Nature. + </p> + <p> + A few weak, almost helpless, creatures, we millions of men stand upon the + deck of a great ship, which goes rolling through space that is itself + incomprehensible, and usually we are so busy with our paltry ambitions, + our transgressions, our righteous labors, our prides and hopes and + entanglements that we forget where we are and what is our destiny. A + direct interposition from a Superior Power, even if it be hurtful to the + body, might be required to persuade us to stop and consider and take anew + our bearings, so that we may comprehend in some larger degree our precise + relations to things. The wisest men have been the most ready to recognize + the beneficence of the discipline of affliction. If there were no sorrow, + we should be likely to find the school of life unprofitable. + </p> + <p> + For one thing, the school wherein sorrow is a part of the discipline is + that in which is developed human sympathy, one of the finest and most + ennobling manifestations of the Love which is, in its essence, divine. In + human life there is much that is ignoble, and the race has almost + contemptible weakness and insignificance in comparison with the physical + forces of the universe. + </p> + <p> + But man is superior to all these forces in his possession of the power of + affection; and in almost the lowest and basest of the race this power, if + latent and half lost, may be found and evoked by the spectacle of the + suffering of a fellow-creature. + </p> + <p> + The human family looks on with pity while the homeless and hungry and + impoverished Californians endure pangs. Wherever the news went, by the + swift processes of electricity, there men and women, some of them, + perhaps, hardly knowing where California is, were sorry and willing and + eager to help. There are quarrels within the family sometimes, when nation + wars with nation, and all love seems to have vanished; but the world is, + in truth, akin. “God hath made of one blood all the nations of the earth,” + and the blood “tells” when suffering comes. + </p> + <p> + THE PUBLISHERS. <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_TOC"> CONTENTS </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> <big><b>THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY + EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE</b></big> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0018"> CHAPTER XVIII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER XXII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0023"> CHAPTER XXIII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0024"> CHAPTER XXIV. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0025"> CHAPTER XXV. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0026"> CHAPTER XXVI. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0027"> CHAPTER XXVII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0028"> CHAPTER XXVIII. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0029"> CHAPTER XXIX. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0030"> CHAPTER XXX. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0031"> CHAPTER XXXI. </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_TOC" id="link2H_TOC"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + CONTENTS + </h2> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER I. <br /> SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS TERRIFIC EARTHQUAKE <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER II. <br /> THE DEMON OF FIRE INVADES THE STRICKEN CITY <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER III. <br /> FIGHTING FLAMES WITH DYNAMITE <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER IV. <br /> THE REIGN OF DESTRUCTION AND DEVASTATION <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER V. <br /> THE PANIC FLIGHT OF A HOMELESS HOST <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER VI. <br /> FACING FAMINE AND PRAYING FOR RELIEF <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER VII. <br /> THE FRIGHTFUL LOSS OF LIFE AND WEALTH <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER VIII. <br /> WONDERFUL RECORD OF THRILLING ESCAPES <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER IX. <br /> DISASTER SPREADS OVER THE GOLDEN STATE <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER X. <br /> ALL AMERICA AND CANADA TO THE RESCUE <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XI. <br /> THE SAN FRANCISCO OF THE PAST <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XII. <br /> LIFE IN THE METROPOLIS OF THE PACIFIC <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XIII. <br /> PLANS TO REBUILD SAN FRANCISCO <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XIV. <br /> THE EARTHQUAKE WAVE FELT AROUND THE WORLD <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XV. <br /> VESUVIUS DEVASTATES THE REGION OF NAPLES <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XVI. <br /> THE GREAT LISBON AND CALABRIAN EARTHQUAKES <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XVII. <br /> THE CHARLESTON AND OTHER EARTHQUAKES OF THE UNITED + STATES <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0018"> CHAPTER XVIII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XVIII. <br /> THE VOLCANO AND THE EARTHQUAKE, EARTH’S DEMONS OF + DESTRUCTION <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XIX. <br /> THE THEORIES OF VOLCANIC AND EARTHQUAKE ACTION <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XX. <br /> THE ACTIVE VOLCANOES OF THE EARTH <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXI. <br /> THE FAMOUS VESUVIUS AND THE DESTRUCTION OF POMPEII + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER XXII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXII. <br /> ERUPTIONS OF VESUVIUS, ETNA AND STROMBOLI <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0023"> CHAPTER XXIII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXIII. <br /> SKAPTER JOKULL AND HECLA, THE GREAT ICELANDIC + VOLCANOES <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0024"> CHAPTER XXIV. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXIV. <br /> VOLCANOES OF THE PHILIPPINES AND OTHER PACIFIC + ISLANDS <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0025"> CHAPTER XXV. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXV. <br /> THE WONDERFUL HAWAIIAN CRATERS AND KILAUEA’S LAKE OF + FIRE <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0026"> CHAPTER XXVI. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXVI. <br /> POPOCATEPETL AND OTHER VOLCANOES OF MEXICO AND + CENTRAL AMERICA <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0027"> CHAPTER XXVII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXVII. <br /> THE TERRIBLE ERUPTION OF KRAKATOA <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0028"> CHAPTER XXVIII. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXVIII. <br /> MONT PELEE AND ITS HARVEST OF DEATH IN 1902 <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0029"> CHAPTER XXIX. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXIX. <br /> ST. VINCENT ISLAND AND MONT SOUFRIERE IN 1812 <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0030"> CHAPTER XXX. </a> + </p> + <p> + CHAPTER XXX. <br /> SUBMARINE VOLCANOES AND THEIR WORK OF ISLAND-BUILDING + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0031"> CHAPTER XXXI. </a> + </p> + <p> + MUD VOLCANOES, GEYSERS AND HOT SPRINGS <br /> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER I. + </h2> + <h3> + San Francisco and Its Terrific Earthquake. + </h3> + <p> + On the splendid Bay of San Francisco, one of the noblest harbors on the + whole vast range of the Pacific Ocean, long has stood, like a Queen of the + West on its seven hills, the beautiful city of San Francisco, the youngest + and in its own way one of the most beautiful and attractive of the large + cities of the United States. Born less than sixty years ago, it has grown + with the healthy rapidity of a young giant, outvieing many cities of much + earlier origin, until it has won rank as the eighth city of the United + States, and as the unquestioned metropolis of our far Western States. + </p> + <p> + It is on this great and rich city that the dark demon of destruction has + now descended, as it fell on the next younger of our cities, Chicago, in + 1872. It was the rage of the fire-fiend that desolated the metropolis of + the lakes. Upon the Queen City of the West the twin terrors of earthquake + and conflagration have descended at once, careening through its thronged + streets, its marts of trade, and its abodes alike of poverty and wealth, + and with the red hand of devastation sweeping one of the noblest centres + of human industry and enterprise from the face of the earth. It is this + story of almost irremediable ruin which it is our unwelcome duty to + chronicle. But before entering upon this sorrowful task some description + of the city that has fallen a prey to two of the earth’s chief agents of + destruction must be given. + </p> + <p> + San Francisco is built on the end of a peninsula or tongue of land lying + between the Pacific Ocean and the broad San Francisco Bay, a noble body of + inland water extending southward for about forty miles and with a width + varying from six to twelve miles. Northward this splendid body of water is + connected with San Pablo Bay, ten miles long, and the latter with Suisun + Bay, eight miles long, the whole forming a grand range of navigable waters + only surpassed by the great northern inlet of Puget Sound. The Golden + Gate, a channel five miles long, connects this great harbor with the sea, + the whole giving San Francisco the greatest commercial advantages to be + found on the Pacific coast. + </p> + <p> + THE EARLY DAYS OF SAN FRANCISCO. + </p> + <p> + The original site of the city was a grant made by the King of Spain of + four square leagues of land. Congress afterwards confirmed this grant. It + was an uninviting region, with its two lofty hills and its various lower + ones, a barren expanse of shifting sand dunes extending from their feet. + The population in 1830 was about 200 souls, about equal to that of Chicago + at the same date. It was not much larger in 1848, when California fell + into American hands and the discovery of gold set in train the famous rush + of treasure seekers to that far land. When 1849 dawned the town contained + about 2,000 people. They had increased to 20,000 before the year ended. + The place, with its steep and barren hills and its sandy stretches, was + not inviting, but its ease of access to the sea and its sheltered harbor + were important features, and people settled there, making it a depot of + mining supplies and a point of departure for the mines. + </p> + <p> + The place grew rapidly and has continued to grow. At first a city of + flimsy frame buildings, it became early a prey to the flames, fire + sweeping through it three times in 1850 and taking toll of the young city + to the value of $7,500,000. These conflagrations swept away most of the + wooden houses, and business men began to build more substantially of + brick, stone and iron. Yet to-day, for climatic reasons, most of the + residences continue to be built of wood. But the slow-burning redwood of + the California hillsides is used instead of the inflammable pine, the + result being that since 1850 the loss by fire in the residence section of + the city has been remarkably small. In 1900 the city contained 50,494 + frame and only 3,881 stone and brick buildings, though the tendency to use + more durable materials was then growing rapidly. + </p> + <p> + Before describing the terrible calamity which fell upon this beautiful + city on that dread morning of April 18, 1906, some account of the + character of the place is very desirable, that readers may know what San + Francisco was before the rage of earthquake and fire reduced it to what it + is to-day. + </p> + <p> + THE CHARACTER OF THE CITY. + </p> + <p> + The site of the city of San Francisco is very uneven, embracing a series + of hills, of which the highest ones, known as the Twin Peaks, reach to an + elevation of 925 feet, and form the crown of an amphitheatre of lower + altitudes. Several of the latter are covered with handsome residences, and + afford a magnificent view of the surrounding country, with its bordering + bay and ocean, and the noble Golden Gate channel, a river-like passage + from ocean to bay of five miles in length and one in width. This waterway + is very deep except on the bar at its mouth, where the depth of water is + thirty feet. + </p> + <p> + Since its early days the growth of the city has been very rapid. In 1900 + it held 342,782 people, and the census estimate made from figures of the + city directory in 1904 gave it then a population of 485,000, probably a + considerable exaggeration. In it are mingled inhabitants from most of the + nations of the earth, and it may claim the unenviable honor of possessing + the largest population of Chinese outside of China itself, the colony + numbering over 20,000. + </p> + <p> + Of the pioneer San Francisco few traces remain, the old buildings having + nearly all disappeared. Large and costly business houses and splendid + residences have taken their place in the central portion of the city, + marble, granite, terra-cotta, iron and steel being largely used as + building material. The great prevalence of frame buildings in the + residence sections is largely due to the popular belief that they are + safer in a locality subject to earthquakes, while the frequent occurrence + of earth tremors long restrained the inclination to erect lofty buildings. + Not until 1890 was a high structure built, and few skyscrapers had invaded + the city up to its day of ruin. They will probably be introduced more + frequently in the future, recent experience having demonstrated that they + are in considerable measure earthquake proof. + </p> + <p> + The city before the fire contained numerous handsome structures, including + the famous old Palace Hotel, built at a cost of $3,000,000 and with + accommodations for 1,200 guests; the nearly finished and splendid + Fairmount Hotel; the City Hall, with its lofty dome, on which $7,000,000 + is said to have been spent, much of it, doubtless, political plunder; a + costly United States Mint and Post Office, an Academy of Science, and many + churches, colleges, libraries and other public edifices. The city had 220 + miles of paved streets, 180 miles of electric and 77 of cable railway, 62 + hotels, 16 theatres, 4 large libraries, 5 daily newspapers, etc., together + with 28 public parks. + </p> + <p> + Sitting, like Rome of old, on its seven hills, San Francisco has long been + noted for its beautiful site, clasped in, as it is, between the Pacific + Ocean and its own splendid bay, on a peninsula of some five miles in + width. Where this juts into the bay at its northernmost point rises a + great promontory known as Telegraph Hill, from whose height homeless + thousands have recently gazed on the smoke rising from their ruined homes. + In the early days of golden promise a watchman was stationed on this hill + to look out for coming ships entering the Golden Gate from their long + voyage around the Horn and signal the welcome news to the town below. From + this came its name. + </p> + <p> + Cliffs rise on either side of the Golden Gate, and on one is perched the + Cliff House, long a famous hostelry. This stands so low that in storms the + surf is flung over its lower porticos, though its force is broken by the + Seal Rocks. A chief attraction to this house was to see the seals play on + these rocks, their favorite place of resort. The Cliff House was at first + said to have been swept bodily by the earthquake into the sea, but it + proved to be very little injured, and stands erect in its old picturesque + location. + </p> + <p> + In the vicinity of Telegraph Hill are Russian and Nob Hills, the latter + getting its peculiar title from the fact that the wealthy “nobs,” or + mining magnates, of bonanza days built their homes on its summit level. + Farther to the east are Mount Olympus and Strawberry Hill, and beyond + these the Twin Peaks, which really embrace three hills, the third being + named Bernal Heights. Farther to the south and east is Rincan Hill, the + last in the half moon crescent of hills, within which is a spread of flat + ground extending to the bay. Behind the hills on the Pacific side + stretches a vast sweep of sand, at some places level, but often gathered + into great round dunes. Part of this has been transformed into the + beautiful Golden Gate Park, a splendid expanse of green verdure which has + long been one of San Francisco’s chief attractions. + </p> + <p> + Beneath the whole of San Francisco is a rock formation, but everywhere on + top of this extends the sand, the gift of the winds. This is of such a + character that a hole dug in the street anywhere, even if only to the + depth of a few feet, must be shored up with planking or it will fill as + fast as it is excavated, the sand running as dry as the contents of an + hour glass. When there is an earthquake—or a “temblor,” to use the + Spanish name—it is the rock foundation that is disturbed, not the + sand, which, indeed, serves to lessen the effect of the earth tremor. + </p> + <p> + THE FOUNDATIONS OF THE CITY. + </p> + <p> + Leaving the region of the hills and descending from their crescent-shaped + expanse, we find a broad extent of low ground, sloping gently toward the + bay. On this low-lying flat was built all of San Francisco’s business + houses, all its principal hotels and a large part of its tenements and + poorer dwellings. It was here that the earthquake was felt most severely + and that the fire started which laid waste the city. + </p> + <p> + Rarely has a city been built on such doubtful foundations. The greater + part of the low ground was a bay in 1849, but it has since been filled in + by the drifting sands blown from the ocean side by the prevailing west + winds and by earth dumped into it. Much of this land was “made ground.” + Forty-niners still alive say that when they first saw San Francisco the + waters of the bay came up to Montgomery Street. The Palace Hotel was in + Montgomery Street, and from there to the ferry docks—a long walk for + any man—the water had been driven back by a “filling-in” process. + </p> + <p> + This is the district that especially suffered, that south of Market and + east of Montgomery Streets. Nearly all the large buildings in this section + are either built on piles driven into the sand and mud or were raised upon + wooden foundations. It is on such ground as this that the costly Post + Office building was erected, despite the protests of nearly the entire + community, who asserted that the ground was nothing but a filled-in bog. + </p> + <p> + In none of the earthquakes that San Francisco has had was any serious + damage except to houses in this filled-in territory, and to houses built + along the line of some of the many streams which ran from the hills down + to the bay, and which were filled in as the town grew—for instance, + the Grand Opera House was built over the bed of St. Anne’s Creek. A bog, + slough and marsh, known as the Pipeville Slough, was the ground on which + the City Hall was built, and which was originally a burying ground. Sand + from the western shore had blown over and drifted into the marsh and + hardened its surface. + </p> + <p> + When the final grading scheme of the city was adopted in 1853, and work + went on, the water front of the city was where Clay Street now is, between + Montgomery and Sansome Streets. The present level area of San Francisco of + about three thousand acres is an average of nine feet above or below the + natural surface of the ground and the changes made necessitated the + transfer of 21,000,000 cubic yards from hills to hollows. Houses to the + number of thousands were raised or lowered, street floors became + subcellars or third stories and the whole natural face of the ground was + altered. + </p> + <p> + Through this infirm material all the pipes of the water and sewer system + of San Francisco in its business districts and in most of the region south + of Market street were laid. When the earthquake came, the filled-in ground + shook like the jelly it is. The only firm and rigid material in its + millions of cubic yards of surface area and depth were the iron pipes. + Naturally they broke, as they would not bend, and San Francisco’s water + system was therefore instantly disabled, with the result that the fire + became complete master of the situation and raged uncontrolled for three + days and nights. + </p> + <p> + Although the earthquake wrecked the business and residential portions of + the city alike, on the hills the land did not sink. All “made ground” sank + in consequence of the quaking, but on the high ground the upper parts of + the buildings were about the only portions of the structures wrecked. Most + of the damage on the hills was done by falling chimneys. On Montgomery + Street, half a block from the main office of the Western Union Company, + the middle of the street was cracked and blown up, but during the shocks + which struck the Western Union building only the top stories were cracked. + Similar phenomena were experienced in other localities, and the bulk of + the disaster, so far as the earthquake was concerned, was confined to the + low-lying region above described. + </p> + <p> + THE BANE OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + </p> + <p> + From the origin of San Francisco the earthquake has been its bane. During + the past fifty years fully 250 shocks have been recorded, while all + California has been subject to them. But frequency rather than violence of + shocks has been the characteristic of the seismic history of the State, + there having been few shocks that caused serious damage, and none since + 1872 that led to loss of life. + </p> + <p> + There was a violent shock in 1856, when the city was only a mining town of + small frame buildings. Several shanties were overthrown and a few persons + killed by falling walls and chimneys. There was a severe shock also in + 1865, in which many buildings were shattered. Next in violence was the + shock of 1872, which cracked the walls of some of the public buildings and + caused a panic. There was no great loss of life. In April, 1898, just + before midnight, there was a lively shakeup which caused the tall + buildings to shake like the snapping of a whip and drove the tourists out + of the hotels into the streets in their nightclothes. Three or four old + houses fell, and the Benicia Navy Yard, which is on made ground across the + bay, was damaged to the extent of about $100,000. The last severe shock + was in January, 1900, when the St. Nicholas Hotel was badly damaged. + </p> + <p> + These were the heaviest shocks. On the other hand, light shocks, as above + said, have been frequent. Probably the sensible quakes have averaged three + or four a year. These are usually tremblings lasting from ten seconds to a + minute and just heavy enough to wake light sleepers or to shake dishes + about on the shelves. Tourists and newcomers are generally alarmed by + these phenomena, but old Californians have learned to take them + philosophically. To one who is not afraid of them, the sensation of one of + these little tremblers is rather pleasant than otherwise, and the + inhabitants grew so accustomed to them as rarely to let them disturb their + equanimity. + </p> + <p> + After 1900 the forces beneath the earth seemed to fall asleep. As it + proved, they were only biding their time. The era was at hand when they + were to declare themselves in all their mighty power and fall upon the + devoted city with ruin in their grasp. But all this lay hidden in the + secret casket of time, and the city kept up to its record as one of the + liveliest and in many respects the most reckless and pleasure-loving on + the continent, its people squandering their money with thoughtless + improvidence and enjoying to the full all the good that life held out to + them. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th of April, 1906, the city was, as usual, gay, careless, busy, + its people attending to business or pleasure with their ordinary vim as + inclination led them, and not a soul dreaming of the horrors that lay in + wait. They were as heedless of coming peril and death as the inhabitants + of Sodom and Gomorrah before the rain of fire from heaven descended upon + their devoted heads. This is not to say that they were doomed by God to + destruction like these “cities of the plains.” We should more wisely say + that the forces of ruin within the earth take no heed of persons or + places. They come and go as the conditions of nature demand, and if man + has built one of his cities across their destined track, its doom comes + from its situation, not from the moral state of its inhabitants. + </p> + <p> + THE GREAT DISASTER OF 1906. + </p> + <p> + That night the people went, with their wonted equanimity, to their beds, + rich and poor, sick and well alike. Did any of them dream of disaster in + the air? It may be so, for often, as the poet tells us, “Coming events + cast their shadows before.” But, forewarned by dreams or not, doubtless + not a soul in the great city was prepared for the terrible event so near + at hand, when, at thirteen minutes past five o’clock on the dread morning + of the 18th, they felt their beds lifted beneath them as if by a Titan + hand, heard the crash of falling walls and ceilings, and saw everything in + their rooms tossed madly about, while through their windows came the roar + of an awful disaster from the city without. + </p> + <p> + It was a matter not of minutes, but of seconds, yet on all that coast, + long the prey of the earthquake, no shock like it had ever been felt, no + such sudden terror awakened, no such terrible loss occasioned as in those + few fearful seconds. Again and again the trembling of the earth passed by, + three quickly repeated shocks, and the work of the demon of ruin was done. + People woke with a start to find themselves flung from their beds to the + floor, many of them covered with the fragments of broken ceilings, many + lost among the ruins of falling floors and walls, many pinned in agonizing + suffering under the ruins of their houses, which had been utterly wrecked + in those fatal seconds. Many there were, indeed, who had been flung to + quick if not to instant death under their ruined homes. + </p> + <p> + Those seconds of the reign of the elemental forces had turned the gayest, + most careless city on the continent into a wreck which no words can fitly + describe. Those able to move stumbled in wild panic across the floors of + their heaving houses, regardless of clothing, of treasures, of everything + but the mad instinct for safety, and rushed headlong into the streets, to + find that the earth itself had yielded to the energy of its frightful + interior forces and had in places been torn and rent like the houses + themselves. New terrors assailed the fugitives as fresh tremors shook the + solid ground, some of them strong enough to bring down shattered walls and + chimneys, and bring back much of the mad terror of the first fearful + quake. The heaviest of these came at eight o’clock. While less forcible + than that which had caused the work of destruction, it added immensely to + the panic and dread of the people and put many of the wanderers to flight, + some toward the ferry, the great mass in the direction of the sand dunes + and Golden Gate Park. + </p> + <p> + The spectacle of the entire population of a great city thus roused + suddenly from slumber by a fierce earthquake shock and sent flying into + the streets in utter panic, where not buried under falling walls or + tumbling debris, is one that can scarcely be pictured in words, and can be + given in any approach to exact realization only in the narratives of those + who passed through its horrors and experienced the sensations to which it + gave rise. Some of the more vivid of these personal accounts will be + presented later, but at present we must confine ourselves to a general + statement of the succession of events. + </p> + <p> + The earthquake proved but the beginning and much the least destructive + part of the disaster. In many of the buildings there were fires, banked + for the night, but ready to kindle the inflammable material hurled down + upon them by the shock. In others were live electric wires which the shock + brought in contact with woodwork. The terror-stricken fugitives saw, here + and there, in all directions around them, the alarming vision of red + flames curling upward and outward, in gleaming contrast to the white light + of dawn just showing in the eastern sky. Those lurid gleams climbed upward + in devouring haste, and before the sun had fairly risen a dozen or more + conflagrations were visible in all sections of the business part of the + city, and in places great buildings broke with startling suddenness into + flame, which shot hotly high into the air. + </p> + <p> + While the mass of the people were stunned by the awful suddenness of the + disaster and stood rooted to the ground or wandered helplessly about in + blank dismay, there were many alert and self-possessed among them who + roused themselves quickly from their dismay and put their energies to + useful work. Some of these gave themselves to the work of rescue, seeking + to save the injured from their perilous situation and draw the bodies of + the dead from the ruins under which they lay. Those base wretches to whom + plunder is always the first thought were as quickly engaged in seeking for + spoil in edifices laid open to their plundering hands by the shock. + Meanwhile the glare of the flames brought the fire-fighters out in hot + haste with their engines, and up from the military station at the + Presidio, on the Golden Gate side of the city, came at double quick a + force of soldiers, under the efficient command of General Funston, of + Cuban and Philippine fame. These trained troops were at once put on guard + over the city, with directions to keep the best order possible, and with + strict command to shoot all looters at sight. Funston recognized at the + start the necessity of keeping the lawless element under control in such + an exigency as that which he had to face. Later in the day the First + Regiment of California National Guards was called out and put on duty, + with similar orders. + </p> + <p> + RESCUERS AND FIRE-FIGHTERS. + </p> + <p> + The work of fighting the fire was the first and greatest duty to be + performed, but from the start it proved a very difficult, almost a + hopeless, task. With fierce fires burning at once in a dozen or more + separate places, the fire department of the city would have been + inadequate to cope with the demon of flame even under the best of + circumstances. As it was, they found themselves handicapped at the start + by a nearly total lack of water. The earthquake had disarranged and broken + the water mains and there was scarcely a drop of water to be had, so that + the engines proved next to useless. Water might be drawn from the bay, but + the centre of the conflagration was a mile or more away, and this great + body of water was rendered useless in the stringent exigency. + </p> + <p> + The only hope that remained to the authorities was to endeavor to check + the progress of the flames by the use of dynamite, blowing up buildings in + the line of progress of the conflagration. This was put in practice + without loss of time, and soon the thunder-like roar of the explosions + began, blasts being heard every few minutes, each signifying that some + building had been blown to atoms. But over the gaps thus made the flames + leaped, and though the brave fellows worked with a desperation and energy + of the most heroic type, it seemed as if all their labors were to be + without avail, the terrible fire marching on as steadily as if a colony of + ants had sought to stay its devastating progress. + </p> + <p> + THE HORROR OF THE PEOPLE. + </p> + <p> + It was with grief and horror that the mass of the people gazed on this + steady march of the army of ruin. They were seemingly half dazed by the + magnitude of the disaster, strangely passive in the face of the ruin that + surrounded them, as if stunned by despair and not yet awakened to a + realization of the horrors of the situation. Among these was the + possibility of famine. No city at any time carries more than a few days’ + supply of provisions, and with the wholesale districts and warehouse + regions invaded by the flames the shortage of food made itself apparent + from the start. Water was even more difficult to obtain, the supply being + nearly all cut off. Those who possessed supplies of food and liquids of + any kind in many cases took advantage of the opportunity to advance their + prices. Thus an Associated Press man was obliged to pay twenty-five cents + for a small glass of mineral water, the only kind of drink that at first + was to be had, while food went up at the same rate, bakers frequently + charging as much as a dollar for a loaf. As for the expressmen and cabmen, + their charges were often practically prohibitory, as much as fifty dollars + being asked for the conveyance of a passenger to the ferry. Policemen were + early stationed at some of the retail shops, regulating the sale and the + price of food, and permitting only a small portion to be sold to each + purchaser, so as to prevent a few persons from exhausting the supply. + </p> + <p> + The fire, the swaying and tottering walls, the frequent dynamite + explosions, each followed by a crashing shower of stones and bricks, + rendered the streets very unsafe for pedestrians, and all day long the + flight of residents from the city went on, growing quickly to the + dimensions of a panic. The ferryboats were crowded with those who wished + to leave the city, and a constant stream of the homeless, carrying such + articles as they had rescued from their homes, was kept up all day long, + seeking the sand dunes, the parks and every place uninvaded by the flames. + Before night Golden Gate Park and the unbuilt districts adjoining on the + ocean side presented the appearance of a tented city, shelter of many + kinds being improvised from bedding and blankets, and the people settling + into such sparse comfort as these inadequate means provided. + </p> + <p> + A strange feature of the disaster was a rush to the banks by people who + wished to get their money and flee from the seemingly doomed city. The + fire front was yet distant from these institutions, which were destined to + fall a prey to the flames, and all that morning lines of dishevelled and + half-frantic men stood before the banks on Montgomery and Sansome Streets, + braving in their thirst for money the smoke and falling embers and beating + in wild anxiety upon the doors. Their effort was vain; the doors remained + closed; finally the police drove these people away, and the banks went on + with the work of saving their valuables. As for the people who wildly fled + toward the ferries, in spite of the fact that ten blocks of fire, as the + day went on, stopped all egress in that direction, it became necessary for + them to be driven back by the police and the troops, and they were finally + forced to seek safety in the sands. And thus, with incident manifold, went + on that fatal Wednesday, the first day of the dread disaster. + </p> + <p> + OFFICIAL RECORD OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + </p> + <p> + It is important here to give the official record of the earthquake shocks, + as given by the scientists. Professor George Davidson, of the University + of California, says of them: + </p> + <p> + “The earthquake came from north to south, and the only description I am + able to give of its effect is that it seemed like a terrier shaking a rat. + I was in bed, but was awakened by the first shock. I began to count the + seconds as I went towards the table where my watch was, being able through + much practice closely to approximate the time in that manner. The shock + came at 5.12 o’clock. The first sixty seconds were the most severe. From + that time on it decreased gradually for about thirty seconds. There was + then the slightest perceptible lull. Then the shock continued for sixty + seconds longer, being slighter in degree in this minute than in any part + of the preceding minute and a half. There were two slight shocks + afterwards which I did not time. At 8.14 o’clock I recorded a shock of + five seconds’ duration, and one at 4.15 of two seconds. There were slight + shocks which I did not record at 5.17 and at 5.27. At 6.50 P. M. there was + a sharp shock of several seconds.” + </p> + <p> + Professor A. O. Louschner, of the students’ observatory of the University + of California, thus records his observations: + </p> + <p> + “The principal part of the earthquake came in two sections, the first + series of vibrations lasting about forty seconds. The vibrations + diminished gradually during the following ten seconds, and then occurred + with renewed vigor for about twenty-five seconds more. But even at noon + the disturbance had not subsided, as slight shocks are recorded at + frequent intervals on the seismograph. The motion was from south-southeast + to north-northwest. + </p> + <p> + “The remarkable feature of this earthquake, aside from its intensity, was + its rotary motion. As seen from the print, the sum total of all + displacements represents a very regular ellipse, and some of the lines + representing the earth’s motion can be traced along the whole + circumference. The result of observation indicates that our heaviest + shocks are in the direction south-southeast to north-northwest. In that + respect the records of the three heaviest earthquakes agree entirely. But + they have several other features in common. One of these is that while the + displacements are very large the vibration period is comparatively slow, + amounting to about one second in the last two big earthquakes.” + </p> + <p> + If we seek to discover the actual damage done by the earthquake, the fact + stands out that the fire followed so close upon it that the traces of its + ravages were in many cases obliterated. So many buildings in the territory + of the severest shock fell a prey to the flames or to dynamite that the + actual work of the earth forces was made difficult and in many places + impossible to discover. This fact is likely to lead to considerable + dispute and delay when the question of insurance adjustment comes up, many + of the insurance companies confining their risk to fire damage and + claiming exemption from liability in the case of damage due to earthquake. + </p> + <p> + Among the chief victims of the earth-shake was the costly and showy City + Hall, with its picturesque dome standing loftily above the structure. This + dome was left still erect, but only as a skeleton might stand, with its + flesh gone and its bare ribs exposed to the searching air. Its roof, its + smaller towers came tumbling down in frightful disarray, and the once + proud edifice is to-day a miserable wreck, fire having aided earthquake in + its ruin. The new Post Office, a handsome government building, also + suffered severely from the shock, its walls being badly cracked and injury + done by earthquake and fire that it is estimated will need half a million + dollars to repair. + </p> + <p> + FREAKS OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + </p> + <p> + One observer states that the earthquake appeared to be very irregular in + its course. He tells us that “there are gas reservoirs with frames all + twisted and big factories thrown to the ground, while a few yards away are + miserable shanties with not a board out of place. Wooden, steel and brick + structures hardly felt the earthquake in some parts of the city, while in + other places all were wrecked. + </p> + <p> + “Skirting the shore northwest from the big ferry building—which was + so seriously injured that it will have to be rebuilt—the first thing + observed was the extraordinary irregularity of the earthquake’s course. + Pier No. 5, for instance, is nothing but a mass of ruins, while Pier No. + 3, on one side of it and Pier No. 7, on the other side, similar in size + and construction, are undamaged. Farther on, the Kosmos Line pier is a + complete wreck.” + </p> + <p> + The big forts at the entrance to the Golden Gate also suffered seriously + from the great shake-up, and the emplacements of the big guns were cracked + and damaged. The same is the case with the fortifications back of Old Fort + Point, the great guns in these being for the present rendered useless. It + will take much time and labor to restore their delicate adjustment upon + their carriages. + </p> + <p> + The buildings that collapsed in the city were all flimsy wooden buildings + and old brick structures, the steel frame buildings, even the score or + more in course of construction, escaping injury from the earthquake shock. + Of the former, one of the most complete wrecks was the Valencia Hotel, a + four-story wooden building, which collapsed into a heap of ruins, pinning + many persons under its splintered timbers. + </p> + <p> + SKYSCRAPERS EARTHQUAKE PROOF. + </p> + <p> + In fact, as the reports of damage wrought by the earthquake came in, the + conviction grew that one of the safest places during the earthquake shock + was on one of the upper floors of the skyscraper office buildings or + hotels. As a matter of fact, not a single person, so far as can be + learned, lost his or her life or was seriously injured in any of the tall, + steel frame structures in the city, although they rocked during the quake + like a ship in a gale. + </p> + <p> + The loss of life was caused in almost every case by the collapse of frame + structures, which the native San Franciscan believed was the safest of all + in an earthquake, or by the shaking down of portions of brick or stone + buildings which did not possess an iron framework. The manner in which the + tall steel structures withstood the shock is a complete vindication of the + strongest claims yet made for them, and it is made doubly interesting from + the fact that this is the first occasion on which the effect of an + earthquake of any proportions on a tall steel structure could be studied. + </p> + <p> + The St. Francis Hotel, a sixteen-story structure, can be repaired at an + expenditure of about $400,000, its damage being almost wholly by fire. The + steel shell and the floors are intact. Although the building rocked like a + ship in a gale while the quake lasted, its foundations are undamaged. + Other steel buildings which are so little damaged as to admit of repairs + more or less extensive are the James Flood, the Union Trust, the CALL + building, the Mutual Savings Bank, the Crocker-Woolworth building and the + Postal building. All of these are modern buildings of steel construction, + from sixteen to twenty stories. + </p> + <p> + A peculiar feature of the effect of the earthquake on structures of this + kind is reported in the case of the Fairmount Hotel, a fourteen-story + structure. The first two stories of the Fairmount are found to be so + seriously damaged that they will have to be rebuilt, while the other + twelve stories are uninjured. + </p> + <p> + Various explanations are being made of the surprising resistance shown by + the skyscrapers. The great strength and binding power of the steel frame, + combined with a deep-seated foundation and great lightness as compared + with buildings of stone, are the main reasons given. The iron, it is said, + unlike stone, responded to the vibratory force and passed it along to be + expended in other directions, while brick or stone offered a solid and + impenetrable front, with the result that the seismic force tended to + expend itself by shaking the building to pieces. + </p> + <p> + Whether there is any scientific basis for the latter theory or not, it + seems reasonable enough, in view of the descriptions given us of the + manner in which the steel buildings received the shock. All things + considered, the modern steel building has afforded in the San Francisco + earthquake the most convincing evidence of its strength. + </p> + <p> + From Golden Gate Park came news of the total destruction of the large + building covering a portion of the children’s playground. The walls were + shattered beyond repair, the roof fell in, and the destruction was + complete. The pillars of the new stone gates at the park entrance were + twisted and torn from their foundations, some of them, weighing nearly + four tons, being shifted as though they were made of cork. It is a little + singular that the monuments and statues in the city escaped without damage + except in the case of the imposing Dewey Monument, in Union Square Park, + which suffered what appears to be a minor injury. + </p> + <p> + In this connection an incident of extraordinary character is narrated. + Among the statues on the buildings of the Leland Stanford, Jr., + University, all of which were overthrown, was a marble statue of Carrara + in a niche on the building devoted to zoology and physiology. This in + falling broke through a hard cement pavement and buried itself in the + ground below, from which it was dug. The singular fact is that when + recovered it proved to be without a crack or scratch. This university + seemed to be a central point in the disturbance, the destruction of its + buildings being almost total, though they had been built with the especial + design of resisting earthquake shocks. + </p> + <p> + Such was the general character of the earthquake at San Francisco and in + its vicinity. It may be said farther that all, or very nearly all, the + deaths and injuries were due to it directly or indirectly, even those who + perished by fire owing their deaths to the fact of their being pinned in + buildings ruined by the earthquake shock, while others were killed by + falling walls weakened by the same cause. + </p> + <p> + On the night of April 23d the earth tremor returned with a slight shock, + only sufficient to cause a temporary alarm. On the afternoon of the 25th + came another and severer one, strong enough to shake down some tottering + walls and add another to the list of victims. This was a woman named Annie + Whitaker, who was at work in the kitchen of her home at the time. The + chimney, which had been weakened by the great shock, now fell, crashing + through the roof and fracturing her skull. Thus the earth powers claimed a + final human sacrifice before their dread visitation ended. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II. + </h2> + <h3> + The Demon of Fire Invades the Stricken City. + </h3> + <p> + The terrors of the earthquake are momentary. One fierce, levelling shock + and usually all is over. The torment within the earth has passed on and + the awakened forces of the earth’s crust sink into rest again, after + having shaken the surface for many leagues. Rarely does the dread agent of + ruin leave behind it such a terrible follower to complete its work as was + the case in the doomed city of San Francisco. All seemed to lead towards + such a carnival of ruin as the earth has rarely seen. The demon of fire + followed close upon the heels of the unseen fiend of the earth’s hidden + caverns, and ran red-handed through the metropolis of the West, kindling a + thousand unhurt buildings, while the horror-stricken people stood aghast + in terror, as helpless to combat this new enemy as they were to check the + ravages of the earthquake itself. + </p> + <p> + Why not quench the fire at its start with water? Alas! there was no water, + and this expedient was a hopeless one. The iron mains which carried the + precious fluid under the city streets were broken or injured so that no + quenching streams were to be had. In some cases the engine houses had been + so damaged that the fire-fighting apparatus could not be taken out, though + even if it had it would have been useless. A sweeping conflagration and + not an ounce of water to throw upon it! The situation of the people was a + maddening one. They were forced helplessly and hopelessly to gaze upon the + destruction of their all, and it is no marvel if many of them grew frantic + and lost their reason at the sight. Thousands gathered and looked on in + blank and pitiful misery, their strong hands, their iron wills of no + avail, while the red-lipped fire devoured the hopes of their lives. + </p> + <p> + In a dozen, a hundred, places the flames shot up redly. Huge, strong + buildings which the earthquake had spared fell an unresisting prey to the + flames. The great, iron-bound, towering Spreckles building, a steeple-like + structure, of eighteen stories in height, the tallest skyscraper in the + city, had resisted the earthquake and remained proudly erect. But now the + flames gathered round and assailed it. From both sides came their attack. + A broad district near by, containing many large hotels and lodging houses, + was being fiercely burnt out, and soon the windows of the lofty building + cracked and splintered, the flames shot triumphantly within, and almost in + an instant the vast interior was a seething furnace, the wild flames + rushing and leaping within until only the blackened walls remained. + </p> + <p> + THE RESISTLESS MARCH OF THE FLAMES. + </p> + <p> + This was the region of the newspaper offices, and they quickly succumbed. + The Examiner, standing across Third Street from Spreckles, collapsed from + the earthquake shock. A flimsy edifice, it had long been looked upon as + dangerous. Another building in the rear of this alone resisted both flames + and smoke. Across Market Street from the Examiner stood the Chronicle + building, a dozen stories high. Firmly built, it had borne the earthquake + assault unharmed, but the flames were an enemy against which it had no + defense, and it was quickly added to the victims of the fire-fiend. + </p> + <p> + Farther down Market Street, the chief business thoroughfare of the city, + stood that great caravansary, the Palace Hotel, which for thirty years had + been a favorite hostelry, housing the bulk of the visitors to the + Californian metropolis. Its time had come. Doom hovered over it. Its + guests had fled in good season, as they saw the irresistible approach of + the conquering flames. Soon it was ablaze; quickly from every window of + its broad front the tongues of flame curled hotly in the air; it became a + thrice-heated furnace, like so many of the neighboring structures, adding + its quota to the vast cloud of smoke that hung over the burning city, and + rapidly sinking in red ruin to the earth. + </p> + <p> + All day Wednesday the fire spread unchecked, all efforts to stay its + devouring fury proving futile. In the business section of the city + everything was in ruins. Not a business house was left standing. Theatres + crumbled into smouldering heaps. Factories and commission houses sank to + red ruin before the devouring flames. The scene was like that of ancient + Babylon in its fall, or old Rome when set on fire by Nero’s command, as + tradition tells. In modern times there has been nothing to equal it except + the conflagration at Chicago, when the flames swept to ruin that queen + city of the Great Lakes. + </p> + <p> + When night fell and the sun withdrew his beams the spectacle was one at + once magnificent and awe-inspiring. The city resembled one vast blazing + furnace. Looking over it from a high hill in the western section, the + flames could be seen ascending skyward for miles upon miles, while in the + midst of the red spirals of flame could be seen at intervals the black + skeletons and falling towers of doomed buildings. Above all this hung a + dense pall of smoke, showing lurid where the flames were reflected from + its dark and threatening surface. To those nearer the scene presented many + pathetic and distressing features, the fire glare throwing weird shadows + over the worn and panic-stricken faces of the woe-begone fugitives, driven + from their homes and wandering the streets in helpless misery. Many of + them lay sleeping on piles of blankets and clothing which they had brought + with them, or on the hard sidewalks, or the grass of the open parks. + </p> + <p> + THE CARE OF THE WOUNDED. + </p> + <p> + Through all the streets ambulances and express wagons were hurrying, + carrying dead and injured to morgues and hospitals. But these refuges for + the wounded or receptacles for the dead were no safer than the remainder + of the city. In the morgue at the Hall of Justice fifty bodies lay, but + the approach of the flames rendered it necessary to remove to Jackson + Square these mutilated remnants of what had once been men. Hospitals were + also abandoned at intervals, doctors and nurses being forced to remove + their patients in haste from the approaching flames. + </p> + <p> + There is an open park opposite City Hall. Here the Board of Supervisors + met, and, with fifty substantial citizens who joined them, formed a + Committee of Safety, to take in hand the direction of affairs and to seek + safe quarters for the dying and the dead. Strangely enough, Mechanics’ + Pavilion, opposite City Hall, had escaped injury from the earthquake, + though it was only a wooden building. It had the largest floor in San + Francisco, and was pressed into service at once. The police and the + troops, working in harmony together, passed the word that the dead and + injured should be brought there, the hospitals and morgue having become + choked, and the order was quickly obeyed, until about 400 of the hurt, + many of them terribly mangled, were laid in improvised cots, attended by + all the physicians and trained nurses who could be obtained. + </p> + <p> + The corpses were much fewer, the workers being too busy in fighting the + fire and caring for the wounded to give time and attention as yet to the + dead. But one of the first wagons to arrive brought a whole family—father, + mother and three children—all dead except the baby, which had a + broken arm and a terrible cut across the forehead. They had been dragged + from the ruins of their house on the water front. A large consignment of + bodies, mostly of workingmen, came from a small hotel on Eddy Street, + through the roof of which the upper part of a tall building next door had + fallen, crushing all below. + </p> + <p> + FIRE ATTACKS THE MINT. + </p> + <p> + To return to the story of the conflagration, the escape of the United + States Mint was one of the most remarkable incidents. Within the vaults of + this fine structure was the vast sum of $300,000,000 in gold and silver + coin and a value of $8,000,000 in bullion, and toward this mighty sum of + wealth the flames swept on all sides, as if eager to add the reservoir of + the precious metals to their spoils. The Mint building passed through the + earthquake with little damage, though its big smokestacks were badly + shaken. The fire seemed bent on making it its prey, every building around + it being burned to the ground, and it remaining the only building for + blocks that escaped destruction. + </p> + <p> + Its safety was due to the energy and activity of its employees. + Superintendent Leach reached it shortly after the shock and found a number + of men already there, whom he stationed at points of vantage from roof to + basement. The fire apparatus of the Mint was brought into service and help + given by the fire department, and after a period of strenuous labor the + flames were driven back. The peril for a time was critical, the windows on + Mint Avenue taking fire and also those on the rear three stories, and the + flames for a time pouring in and driving back the workers. The roof also + caught fire, but the men within fought like Titans, and efficient aid was + given by a squad of soldiers sent to them. In the end the fire fiend was + vanquished, though considerable damage was done to the adjusting rooms and + the refinery, while the heavy stone cornice on that side of the building + was destroyed. The total loss to the Mint was later estimated at $15,000. + </p> + <p> + Late on Wednesday evening the fire front crept close up to Mechanics’ + Pavilion, where a corps of fifty physicians and numerous nurses were + active in the work of relief to the wounded. Ambulances and automobiles + were busy unloading new patients rescued from the ruins when word came + that the building would have to be vacated in haste. Every available + vehicle was at once pressed into service and the patients removed as + rapidly as possible, being taken to hospitals and private houses in the + safer parts of the city. Hardly had the last of the injured been carried + through the door when the roof was seen to be in a blaze, and shortly + afterward the whole building burst into a whirlwind of flame. + </p> + <p> + At midnight the fire was raging and roaring with unslacked rage, and at + dawn of Thursday its fury was undiminished. The work of destruction was + already immense. In much of the Hayes Valley district, south of McAllister + and north of Market Street, the destruction was complete. From the + Mechanics’ Pavilion and St. Nicholas Hotel opposite down to Oakland Ferry + the journey was heartrending, the scene appalling. On each side was ruin, + nothing but ruin, and hillocks of masonry and heaps of rubbish of every + description filled to its middle the city’s greatest thoroughfare. + </p> + <p> + Across an alley from the Post Office stood the Grant Building, one of the + headquarters of the army. Of this only the smoke-darkened walls were left. + On Market Street opposite this building the beautiful front of the + Hibernian Savings Bank, the favorite institution of the middle and poorer + classes, presented a hideous aspect of ruin. At eleven o’clock of + Wednesday night the north side of Market Street stood untouched, and hopes + were entertained that the great Flood, Crocker, Phelan and other buildings + would be spared, but the hunger of the fire fiend was not yet satiated, + and the following day these proud structures had only their blackened + ruins to show. On both sides of Market Street, down to the ferry, the tale + was the same. The handsome and gigantic St. Francis Hotel, on Powell + Street, fronting on Union Square, was left a ruined shell. This was one of + the lofty steel structures that bore unharmed the earthquake shock, but + quickly succumbed to the flames. Among the other skyscrapers north of + Market Street that perished were the fourteen-story Merchants’ Exchange, + and the great Mills Building, occupying almost an entire block. + </p> + <p> + One section of the city that went without pity, as it had long stood with + reprobation, was that group of disreputable buildings known as Chinatown, + the place of residence of many thousands of Celestials. The flames made + their way unchecked in this direction, and by noon on Thursday the whole + section was a raging furnace, the denizens escaping with what they could + carry of their simple possessions. On the farther western side the flames + cut a wide swath to Van Ness Avenue, a wide thoroughfare, at which it was + hoped the march of the fire in this direction might be checked, especially + as the water mains here furnished a weak supply. + </p> + <p> + In the Missouri district, to the south of Market Street, the zone of ruin + extended westward toward the extreme southern portion, but was checked at + Fourteenth and Missouri Streets by the wholesale use of dynamite. At this + point were located the Southern Pacific Hospital, the St. Francis Hospital + and the College of Physicians and Surgeons. In order to save these + institutions, buildings were blown up all around them, and by noon the + danger was averted. It later became necessary to destroy the Southern + Pacific Hospital with dynamite, the patients having been removed to places + of safety. + </p> + <p> + THE PALACES ON NOB’S HILL. + </p> + <p> + In the centre of San Francisco rises the aristocratic elevation known as + Nob’s Hill, on which the early millionaires built their homes, and on + which stood the city’s most palatial residences. It ascends so abruptly + from Kearney Street that it is inaccessible to any kind of vehicle, the + slope being at any angle little short of forty-five degrees. It is as + steep on the south side, and the only approach by carriage is from the + north. To this hill is due the pioneer cable railway, built in the early + ‘70’s. + </p> + <p> + Here the “big four” of the railroad magnates—Stanford, Hopkins, + Huntington and Crocker—had put millions in their mansions, the Mark + Hopkins residence being said to have cost $2,500,000. These men are all + dead, and the last named edifice has been converted into the Hopkins Art + Institute, and at the time of the fire was well filled with costly art + treasures. The Stanford Museum, which also contains valuable objects of + art, is now the property of the Leland Stanford University. The Flood + mansion, which cost more than $1,000,000, was one of the showy residences + on this hill, west of it being the Huntington home and farther west the + Crocker residence, with its broad lawns and magnificent stables. Many + other beautiful and costly houses stood on this hill, and opposite the + Stanford and Hopkins edifices the great Fairmount Hotel had for two years + past been in process of construction and was practically completed. On the + northeastern slope of this hill stood the famous Chinatown, through which + it was necessary to pass to ascend Nob’s Hill from the principal section + of the wholesale district. + </p> + <p> + This region of palaces was the next to fall a prey to the insatiable + flames. Early Thursday morning a change in the wind sent the fire + westward, eating its way from the water front north of Market Street + toward Nob’s Hill. Steadily but surely it climbed the slope, and the + Stanford and Hopkins edifices fell victims to its fury. Others of the + palaces of millionairedom followed. Huge clouds of smoke enveloped the + beautiful white stone Fairmount Hotel, and there was a general feeling of + horror when this magnificent structure seemed doomed. To it the Committee + of Safety had retreated, but the flames from the burning buildings + opposite reached it, and the committee once more migrated in search of + safe quarters. Fortunately, it escaped with little damage, its walls + remaining intact and much of the interior being left in a state of + preservation, warranting its managers to offer space within it to the + committees whose aim it was to help the homeless or to store supplies. + Some of the woodwork of the building was destroyed by the fire, but the + structure was in such good condition that work on it was quickly resumed, + with the statement that its completion would not be delayed more than + three months beyond the date set, which was November, 1906. + </p> + <p> + In the district extending northwestwardly from Kearney Street and + Montgomery Avenue, untouched during the first day, the fire spread freely + on the second. This district embraces the Latin quarter, peopled by + various nationalities, the houses being of the flimsiest construction. + Once it had gained a foothold there, the fire swept onward as though + making its way through a forest in the driest summer season. + </p> + <p> + An apochryphal incident is told of the fire in this quarter, which may be + repeated as one example of the fables set afloat. It is stated that water + to fight the fire here was sadly lacking, the only available supply being + from an old well. At a critical moment the pump sucked dry, the water in + the well being exhausted. The residents were not yet conquered. Some of + them threw open their cellar doors and, calling for assistance, began to + roll out barrels of red wine. Barrel after barrel appeared, until fully + five hundred gallons were ready for use. Then the barrel heads were + smashed in and the bucket brigade turned from water to wine. Sacks were + dipped in the wine and used for fighting the fire. Beds were stripped of + their blankets and these soaked in the wine and hung over exposed portions + of the cottages, while men on the roofs drenched the shingles and sides of + the houses with wine. The postscript to this queer story is that the wine + won and the firefighters saved their homes. The story is worth retelling, + though it may be added that wine, if it contained much alcohol, would + serve as a feeder rather than as an extinguisher of flame. + </p> + <p> + A striking description of the aspect of the city on that terrible + Wednesday is told by Jerome B. Clark, whose home was in Berkeley, but who + did business in San Francisco. He left for the city early Wednesday + morning, after a minor shake-up at home, which he thus describes: + </p> + <p> + A VIVID FIRE PICTURE. + </p> + <p> + “I was asleep and was awakened by the house rocking. With the exception of + water in vases, and milk in pans being spilled, and one of our chimneys + badly cracked, we escaped with nothing but a bad scare, but I can assure + you it was a terrific and terrifying experience to feel that old house + rocking, jolting and jumping under us, with the most terrible roar, dull, + deep and nerve-racking. It calmed down after that and we went back to bed, + only to get up at six o’clock to find that neighbors had suffered by + having vases knocked from tables, bric-a-brac knocked around, tiles + knocked out of grates and scarcely a chimney left standing. We thought + that we had had the worst of it, so I started over to the city as usual, + reaching there about eight o’clock, and it is just impossible to describe + the scenes that met my eyes. + </p> + <p> + “In every direction from the ferry building flames were seething, and as I + stood there, a five-story building half a block away fell with a crash, + and the flames swept clear across Market Street and caught a new fireproof + building recently erected. The streets in places had sunk three or four + feet, in others great humps had appeared four or five feet high. The + street car tracks were bent and twisted out of shape. Electric wires lay + in every direction. Streets on all sides were filled with brick and + mortar, buildings either completely collapsed or brick fronts had just + dropped completely off. Wagons with horses hitched to them, drivers and + all, lying on the streets, all dead, struck and killed by the falling + bricks, these mostly the wagons of the produce dealers, who do the greater + part of their work at that hour of the morning. Warehouses and large + wholesale houses of all descriptions either down, or walls bulging, or + else twisted, buildings moved bodily two or three feet out of a line and + still standing with walls all cracked. + </p> + <p> + “The Call building, a twelve-story skyscraper, stood, and looked all right + at first glance, but had moved at the base two feet at one end out into + the sidewalk, and the elevators refused to work, all the interior being + just twisted out of shape. It afterward burned as I watched it. I worked + my way in from the ferry, climbing over piles of brick and mortar and + keeping to the centre of the street and avoiding live wires that lay + around on every side, trying to get to my office. I got within two blocks + of it and was stopped by the police on account of falling walls. I saw + that the block in which I was located was on fire, and seemed doomed, so + turned back and went up into the city. + </p> + <p> + “Not knowing San Francisco, you would not know the various buildings, but + fires were blazing in all directions, and all of the finest and best of + the office and business buildings were either burning or surrounded. They + pumped water from the bay, but the fire was soon too far away from the + water front to make any efforts in this direction of much avail. The water + mains had been broken by the earthquake, and so there was no supply for + the fire engines and they were helpless. The only way out of it was to + dynamite, and I saw some of the finest and most beautiful buildings in the + city, new modern palaces, blown to atoms. First they blew up one or two + buildings at a time. Finding that of no avail, they took half a block; + that was no use; then they took a block; but in spite of them all the fire + kept on spreading. + </p> + <p> + “The City Hall, which, while old, was quite a magnificent building, + occupying a large square block of land, was completely wrecked by the + earthquake, and to look upon reminded one of the pictures of ancient ruins + of Rome or Athens. The Palace Hotel stood for a long time after everything + near it had gone, but finally went up in smoke as the rest. You could not + look in any direction in the city but what mass after mass of flame stared + you in the face. To get about one had to dodge from one street to another, + back and forth in zigzag fashion, and half an hour after going through a + street, it would be impassable. One after another of the magnificent + business blocks went down. The newer buildings seemed to have withstood + the shock better than any others, except well-built frame buildings. The + former lost some of the outside shell, but the frame stood all right, and + in some cases after fire had eaten them all to pieces, the steel skeleton, + although badly twisted and warped, still stood. + </p> + <p> + “When I finally left the city, it was all in flames as far as Eighth + Street, which is about a mile and a quarter or half from the water front. + I had to walk at least two miles around in order to get to the ferry + building, and when I got there you could see no buildings standing in any + direction. Nearly all the docks caved in or sheds were knocked down, and + all the streets along the water front were a mass of seams, upheavals and + depressions, car tracks twisted in all shapes. Cars that had stood on + sidings were all in ashes and still burning.” + </p> + <p> + Wednesday’s conflagration continued unabated throughout Thursday, and it + was not until late on Friday that the fire-fighters got it safely under + control. They worked like heroes, struggling almost without rest, keeping + up the nearly hopeless conflict until they fairly fell in their tracks + from fatigue. Handicapped by the lack of water, they in one case brought + it from the bay through lines of hose well on to a mile in length. Yet + despite all they could do block after block of San Francisco’s greatest + buildings succumbed to the flames and sank in red ruin before their eyes. + </p> + <p> + THE LANDMARKS CONSUMED. + </p> + <p> + On all sides famous landmarks yielded to the fury of the flames. For three + miles along the water front the ground was swept clean of buildings, the + blackened beams and great skeletons of factories, warehouses and business + edifices standing silhouetted against a background of flames, while the + whole commercial and office quarter of Market Street suffered a similar + fate. We may briefly instance some of these victims of the flames. + </p> + <p> + Among them were the Occidental Hotel, on Montgomery Street, for years the + headquarters for army officers; the old Lick House, built by James Lick, + the philanthropist; the California Hotel and Theatre, on Bush Street; and + of theatres, the Orpheum, the Alcazar, the Majestic, the Columbia, the + Magic, the Central, Fisher’s and the Grand Opera House, on Missouri + Street, where the Conried Opera Company had just opened for a two weeks’ + opera season. + </p> + <p> + The banks that fell were numerous, including the Nevada National Bank, the + California, the Canadian Bank of Commerce, the First National, the London + and San Francisco, the London, Paris and American, the Bank of British + North America, the German-American Savings Bank and the Crocker-Woolworth + Bank building. A large number of splendid apartment houses were also + destroyed, and the tide of destruction swept away a host of noble + buildings far too numerous to mention. + </p> + <p> + At Post Street and Grant Avenue stood the Bohemian Club, one of the widest + known social organizations in the world. Its membership included many men + famous in art, literature and commerce. Its rooms were decorated with the + works of members, many of whose names are known wherever paintings are + discussed and many of them priceless in their associations. Most of these + were saved. There were on special exhibition in the “Jinks” room of the + Bohemian Club a dozen paintings by old masters, including a Rembrandt, a + Diaz, a Murillo and others, probably worth $100,000. These paintings were + lost with the building, which went down in the flames. + </p> + <p> + One of the great losses was that of St. Ignatius’ Church and College, at + Van Ness Avenue and Hayes Street, the greatest Jesuitical institution in + the west, which cost a couple of millions of dollars. The Merchants’ + Exchange building, a twelve-story structure, eleven of whose floors were + occupied as offices by the Southern Pacific Railroad Company, was added to + the sum of losses. + </p> + <p> + THE FIRE UNDER CONTROL. + </p> + <p> + For three long days the terrible fire fiend kept up his work, and the + fight went on until late on Friday, when the sweep of the flames was at + length checked and the fire brought under control. The principal agent in + this victory was dynamite, which was freely used. To its work a separate + chapter will be devoted. When at length the area of the conflagration was + limited the wealthiest part of the city lay in embers and ashes, one of + the principal localities to escape being Pacific Heights, a mile west from + Nob’s Hill, on which stood many costly homes of recent construction. + </p> + <p> + On Friday night the fire that had worked its way from Nob’s Hill to North + Beach Street, sweeping that quarter clean of buildings, veered before a + fierce wind and made its way southerly to the great sea wall, with its + docks and grain warehouses. The flames reached the tanks of the San + Francisco Gas Company, which had previously been pumped out, and on + Saturday morning the grain sheds on the water front, about half a mile + north of the ferry station, were fiercely burning. But the fire here was + confined to a small area, and, with the work of fireboats in the bay and + of the firemen on shore, who used salt water pumped into their engines, it + was prevented from reaching the ferry building and the docks in that + vicinity. + </p> + <p> + The buildings on a high slope between Van Ness and Polk Streets, Union and + Filbert Streets, were blazing fiercely, fanned by a high wind, but the + blocks here were so thinly settled that the fire had little chance of + spreading widely from this point. In fact, it was at length practically + under control, and the entire western addition of the city west of Van + Ness Avenue was safe from the flames. The great struggle was fairly at an + end, and the brave force of workers were at length given some respite from + their strenuous labors. + </p> + <p> + During the height of the struggle and the days of exhaustion and + depression that followed, exaggerated accounts of the losses and of the + area swept by the flames were current, some estimate making the extent of + the fire fifteen square miles out of the total of twenty-five square miles + of the city’s area. It was not until Friday, the 27th, that an official + survey of the burned district, made by City Surveyor Woodward, was + completed, and the total area burned over found to be 2,500 acres, a + trifle less than four square miles. This, however, embraced the heart of + the business section and many of the principal residence streets, much of + the saved area being occupied by the dwellings of the poorer people, so + that the money loss was immensely greater than the percentage of ground + burned over would indicate. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III. + </h2> + <h3> + Fighting the Flames With Dynamite. + </h3> + <p> + Shaken by earthquake, swept by flames, the water supply cut off by the + breaking of the mains, the authorities of the doomed city for a time stood + appalled. What could be done to stay the fierce march of the flames which + were sweeping resistlessly over palace and hovel alike, over stately hall + and miserable hut? Water was not to be had; what was to take its place? + Nothing remained but to meet ruin with ruin, to make a desert in the path + of the fire and thus seek to stop its march. They had dynamite, gunpowder + and other explosives, and in the frightful exigency there was nothing else + to be used. Only for a brief interval did the authorities yield to the + general feeling of helplessness. Then they aroused themselves to the + demands of the occasion and prepared to do all in the power of man in the + effort to arrest the conflagration. + </p> + <p> + While the soldiers under General Funston took military charge of the city, + squads of cavalry and troops of infantry patrolling the streets and + guarding the sections that had not yet been touched by the flames, Mayor + Schmitz and Chief of Police Dinan sprang into the breach and prepared to + make a desperate charge against the platoons of the fire. This was not all + that was needed to be done. From the “Barbary Coast,” as the resort of the + vicious and criminal classes was called, hordes of wretches poured out as + soon as night fell, seeking to slip through the guards and loot stores and + rob the dead in the burning section. Orders were given to the soldiers to + kill all who were engaged in such work, and these orders were carried out. + An associated Press reporter saw three of these thieves shot and fatally + wounded, and doubtless others of them were similarly dealt with elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + A band of fire-fighters was quickly organized by the Mayor and Chief of + Police, and the devoted firemen put themselves in the face of the flames, + determined to do their utmost to stay them in their course. Cut off from + the use of their accustomed engines and water streams, which might have + been effective if brought into play at the beginning of the struggle, + there was nothing to work with but the dynamite cartridge and the + gunpowder mine, and they set bravely to work to do what they could with + these. On every side the roar of explosions could be heard, and the crash + of falling walls came to the ear, while people were forced to leave + buildings which still stood, but which it was decided must be felled. + Frequently a crash of stone and brick, followed by a cloud of dust, gave + warning to pedestrians that destruction was going on in the forefront of + the flames, and that travel in such localities was unsafe. + </p> + <p> + FIGHTING THE FLAMES. + </p> + <p> + All through the night of Wednesday and the morning of Thursday this work + went on, hopelessly but resolutely. During the following day blasts could + be heard in different sections at intervals of a few minutes, and + buildings not destroyed by fire were blown to atoms, but over the gaps + jumped the live flames, and the disheartened fire-fighters were driven + back step by step; but they continued the work with little regard for + their own safety and with unflinching desperation. + </p> + <p> + One instance of the peril they ran may be given. Lieutenant Charles O. + Pulis, commanding the Twenty-fourth Company of Light Artillery, had placed + a heavy charge of dynamite in a building at Sixth and Jesse Streets. For + some reason it did not explode, and he returned to relight the fuse, + thinking it had become extinguished. While he was in the building the + explosion took place, and he received injuries that seemed likely to prove + fatal, his skull being fractured and several bones broken, while he was + injured internally. In the early morning, when the fire reached the + municipal building on Portsmouth Square, the nurses, with the aid of + soldiers, got out fifty bodies which were in the temporary morgue and a + number of patients from the receiving hospital. Just after they reached + the street with their gruesome charge a building was blown up, and the + flying bricks and splinters came falling upon them. The nurses fortunately + escaped harm, but several of the soldiers were hurt, and had to be taken + with the other patients to the out-of-doors Presidio hospital. + </p> + <p> + The Southern Pacific Hospital, at Fourteenth and Missouri Streets, was + among the buildings destroyed by dynamite, the patients having been + removed to places of safety, and the Linda Vista and the Pleasanton, two + large family hotels on Jones Street, in the better part of the city, were + also among those blown up to stay the progress of the conflagration. + </p> + <p> + THE STRUGGLE AGAINST THE FIRE. + </p> + <p> + The fire had continued to creep onward and upward until it reached the + summit of Nob Hill, a district of splendid residences, and threatened the + handsome Fairmount Hotel, then the headquarters of the Municipal Council, + acting as a Committee of Public Safety. As day broke the flames seized + upon this beautiful structure, and the Council was forced to retreat to + new quarters. They finally met in the North End Police Station, on + Sacramento Street, and there entered actively upon their duties of seeking + to check the progress of the flames, maintain order in the city and + control and direct the host of fugitives, many of whom, still in a state + of semi-panic, were moving helplessly to and fro and sadly needed wise + counsels and a helping hand. + </p> + <p> + The fire-fighters meanwhile kept up their indefatigable work under the + direction of the Mayor and the chief of their department. The engines + almost from the start had proved useless from lack of water, and were + either abandoned or moved to the outlying districts, in the vain hope that + the water mains might be repaired in time to permit of a final stand + against the whirlwind march of the flames. The cloud of despair grew + darker still as the report spread that the city’s supply of dynamite had + given out. + </p> + <p> + “No more dynamite! No more dynamite!” screamed a fireman as he ran up + Ellis Street past the doomed Flood building at two o’clock on Friday + morning, tears standing in his smoke-smirched eyes. + </p> + <p> + “No more dynamite! O God! no more dynamite! We are lost!” moaned the + throng that heard his despairing words. + </p> + <p> + A NEW SUPPLY OF EXPLOSIVES. + </p> + <p> + So, at that hour, the supply of the explosive exhausted, and not a dozen + streams of water being thrown in the entire fire zone, the stunned firemen + and the stupefied people stood helpless with their eyes fixed in despair + upon the swiftly creeping flames. + </p> + <p> + Had all been like these the entire city would have been doomed, but there + were those at the head of affairs who never for a moment gave up their + resolution. Dynamite and giant powder were to be had in the Presidio + military reservation, and a requisition upon the army authorities was + made. The louder reverberations as the day advanced and night came on + showed that a fresh supply had been obtained, and that a new and + determined campaign against the conflagration had been entered upon. + Hitherto much of the work had been ignorantly and carelessly done, and by + the hasty and premature use of explosives more harm than good had been + occasioned. + </p> + <p> + As the fire continued to spread in spite of the heroic work of the + fighting corps, the Committee of Safety called a meeting at noon on Friday + and decided to blow up all the residences on the east side of Van Ness + Avenue, between Golden Gate and Pacific Avenues, a distance of one mile. + Van Ness Avenue is one of the most fashionable streets of the city and has + a width of 125 feet, a fact which led to the idea that a safety line might + be made here too broad for the flames to cross. + </p> + <p> + The firemen, therefore, although exhausted from over twenty-four hours’ + work and lack of food, determined to make a desperate stand at this point. + They declared that should the fire cross Van Ness Avenue and the wind + continue its earlier direction toward the west, the destruction of San + Francisco would be virtually complete. The district west of Van Ness + Avenue and north of McAllister constitutes the finest part of the + metropolis. Here are located all of the finer homes of the well-to-do and + wealthier classes, and the resolution to destroy them was the last resort + of desperation. + </p> + <p> + Hundreds of police, regiments of soldiers and scores of volunteers were + sent into the doomed district to warn the people to flee. They heroically + responded to the demand of law and went bravely on their way, leaving + their loved homes and trudging painfully over the pavements with the + little they could carry away of their treasured possessions. + </p> + <p> + The reply of a grizzled fire engineer standing at O’Farrell Street and Van + Ness Avenue, beside a blackened engine, may not have been as terse as that + of Hugo’s guardsman at Waterloo, but the pathos of it must have been as + great. In answer to the question of what they proposed to do, he said: + </p> + <p> + “We are waiting for it to come. When it gets here we will make one more + stand. If it crosses Van Ness Avenue the city is gone.” + </p> + <p> + THE SAVERS OF THE CITY. + </p> + <p> + Yet the work now to be done was much too important to be left to the hands + of untrained volunteers. Skilled engineers were needed, men used to the + scientific handling of explosives, and it was men of this kind who finally + saved what is left to-day of the city. Three men saved San Francisco, so + far as any San Francisco existed after the fire had worked its will, these + three constituting the dynamite squad who faced and defied the demon at + Van Ness Avenue. + </p> + <p> + When the burning city seemed doomed and the flames lit the sky farther and + farther to the west, Admiral McCalla sent a trio of his most trusted men + from Mare Island with orders to check the conflagration at any cost of + property. With them they brought a ton and a half of guncotton. The + terrific power of the explosive was equal to the maniac determination of + the fire. Captain MacBride was in charge of the squad, Chief Gunner + Adamson placed the charges and the third gunner set them off. + </p> + <p> + Stationing themselves on Van Ness Avenue, which the conflagration was + approaching with leaps and bounds from the burning business section of the + city, they went systematically to work, and when they had ended a broad + open space, occupied only by the dismantled ruins of buildings, remained + of what had been a long row of handsome and costly residences, which, with + all their treasures of furniture and articles of decoration, had been + consigned to hideous ruin. + </p> + <p> + The thunderous detonations, to which the terrified city listened all that + dreadful Friday night, meant much to those whose ears were deafened by + them. A million dollars’ worth of property, noble residences and worthless + shacks alike, were blown to drifting dust, but that destruction broke the + fire and sent the raging flames back over their own charred path. The + whole east side of Van Ness Avenue, from the Golden Gate to Greenwich, a + distance of twenty-two blocks, or a mile and a half, was dynamited a block + deep, though most of the structures as yet had stood untouched by spark or + cinder. Not one charge failed. Not one building stood upon its foundation. + </p> + <p> + Unless some second malicious miracle of nature should reverse the + direction of the west wind, by nine o’clock it was felt that the populous + district to the west, blocked with fleeing refugees and unilluminated + except by the disastrous glare on the water front, was safe. Every pound + of guncotton did its work, and though the ruins burned, it was but feebly. + From Golden Gate Avenue north the fire crossed the wide street in but one + place. That was at the Claus Spreckels place, on the corner of California + Street. + </p> + <p> + There the flames were writhing up the walls before the dynamiters could + reach the spot. Yet they made their way to the foundations, carrying their + explosives, despite the furnace-like heat. The charge had to be placed so + swiftly and the fuse lit in such a hurry that the explosion was not quite + successful from the trained viewpoint of the gunners. But though the walls + still stood, it was only an empty victory for the fire, as bare brick and + smoking ruins are poor food for flames. + </p> + <p> + Captain MacBride’s dynamiting squad had realized that a stand was hopeless + except on Van Ness Avenue, their decision thus coinciding with that of the + authorities. They could have forced their explosives farther in the + burning section, but not a pound of guncotton could be or was wasted. The + ruined blocks of the wide thoroughfare formed a trench through the + clustered structures that the conflagration, wild as it was, could not + leap. Engines pumping brine through Fort Mason from the bay completed the + little work that the guncotton had left, but for three days the + haggard-eyed firemen guarded the flickering ruins. + </p> + <p> + The desolate waste straight through the heart of the city remained a mute + witness to the most heroic and effective work of the whole calamity. Three + men did this, and when their work was over and what stood of the city + rested quietly for the first time, they departed as modestly as they had + come. They were ordered to save San Francisco, and they obeyed orders, and + Captain MacBride and his two gunners made history on that dreadful night. + </p> + <p> + They stayed the march of the conflagration at that critical point, leaving + it no channel to spread except along the wharf region, in which its final + force was spent. One side of Van Ness Avenue was gone; the other remained, + the fire leaping the broad open space only feebly in a few places, where + it was easily extinguished. + </p> + <p> + In this connection it is well to put on record an interesting + circumstance. This is that there is one place within pistol shot of San + Francisco that the earthquake did not touch, that did not lose a chimney + or feel a tremor. That spot is Alcatraz Island. Despite the fact that the + island is covered with brick buildings, brick forts and brick chimneys, + not a brick was loosened nor a crack made nor a quiver felt. When the + scientist comes to write he will have his hands full explaining why + Alcatraz did not have any physical knowledge of the event. It was as if + New York were to be shaken to its foundation, and Governor’s Island, + quietly pursuing its military routine, should escape without a qualm. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV. + </h2> + <h3> + The Reign of Destruction and Devastation + </h3> + <p> + Rarely, in the whole history of mankind, has a great city been overwhelmed + by destruction so suddenly and awfully as was San Francisco. One minute + its inhabitants slept in seeming safety and security. Another minute + passed and the whole great city seemed tumbling around them, while sights + of terror met the eyes of the awakened multitude and sounds of horror came + to their ears. The roar of destruction filled the air as the solid crust + of the earth lifted and fell and the rocks rose and sank in billowing + waves like those of the open sea. + </p> + <p> + Not all, it is true, were asleep. There was the corps of night workers, + whose duties keep them abroad till day dawns. There were those whose work + calls them from their homes in the early morn. People of this kind were in + the streets and saw the advent of the reign of devastation in its full + extent. From the story of one of these, P. Barrett, an editor on the + Examiner, we select a thrilling account of his experience on that morning + of awe. + </p> + <p> + AN EDITOR’S NARRATIVE. + </p> + <p> + “I have seen this whole, great horror. I stood with two other members of + the Examiner staff on the corner of Market Street, waiting for a car. + Newspaper duties had kept us working until five o’clock in the morning. + Sunlight was coming out of the early morning mist. It spread its + brightness on the roofs of the skyscrapers, on the domes and spires of + churches, and blazed along up the wide street with its countless banks and + stores, its restaurants and cafes. In the early morning the city was + almost noiseless. Occasionally a newspaper wagon clattered up the street + or a milk wagon rumbled along. One of my companions had told a funny + story. We were laughing at it. We stopped—the laugh unfinished on + our lips. + </p> + <p> + “Of a sudden we had found ourselves staggering and reeling. It was as if + the earth was slipping gently from under our feet. Then came a sickening + swaying of the earth that threw us flat upon our faces. We struggled in + the street. We could not get on our feet. + </p> + <p> + “I looked in a dazed fashion around me. I saw for an instant the big + buildings in what looked like a crazy dance. Then it seemed as though my + head were split with the roar that crashed into my ears. Big buildings + were crumbling as one might crush a biscuit in one’s hand. Great gray + clouds of dust shot up with flying timbers, and storms of masonry rained + into the street. Wild, high jangles of smashing glass cut a sharp note + into the frightful roaring. Ahead of me a great cornice crushed a man as + if he were a maggot—a laborer in overalls on his way to the Union + Iron Works, with a dinner pail on his arm. + </p> + <p> + “Everywhere men were on all fours in the street, like crawling bugs. Still + the sickening, dreadful swaying of the earth continued. It seemed a + quarter of an hour before it stopped. As a matter of fact, it lasted about + three minutes. Footing grew firm again, but hardly were we on our feet + before we were sent reeling again by repeated shocks, but they were + milder. Clinging to something, one could stand. + </p> + <p> + “The dust clouds were gone. It was quite dark, like twilight. But I saw + trolley tracks uprooted, twisted fantastically. I saw wide wounds in the + street. Water flooded out of one. A deadly odor of gas from a broken main + swept out of the other. Telegraph poles were rocked like matches. A wild + tangle of wires was in the street. Some of the wires wriggled and shot + blue sparks. + </p> + <p> + “From the south of us, faint, but all too clear, came a horrible chorus of + human cries of agony. Down there in a ramshackle section of the city the + wretched houses had fallen in upon the sleeping families. Down there + throughout the day a fire burned the great part of whose fuel it is too + gruesome a thing to contemplate. + </p> + <p> + “That was what came next—the fire. It shot up everywhere. The fierce + wave of destruction had carried a flaming torch with it—agony, death + and a flaming torch. It was just as if some fire demon was rushing from + place to place with such a torch.” + </p> + <p> + WRECK AND RUIN. + </p> + <p> + The magnitude of the calamity became fully apparent after the sun had + risen and began to shine warmly and brightly from the east over the ruined + city. Old Sol, who had risen and looked down upon this city for thousands + of times, had never before seen such a spectacle as that of this fateful + morning. Where once rose noble buildings were now to be seen cracked and + tottering walls, fallen chimneys, here and there fallen heaps of brick and + mortar, and out of and above all the red light of the mounting flames. + From the middle of the city’s greatest thoroughfare ruin, only ruin, was + to be seen on all sides. To the south, in hundreds of blocks, hardly a + building had escaped unscathed. The cracked walls of the new Post Office + showed the rending power of the earthquake. A part of the splendid and + costly City Hall collapsed, the roof falling to the courtyard and the + smaller towers tumbling down. Some of the wharves, laden with goods of + every sort, slid into the bay. With them went thousands of tons of coal. + On the harbor front the earth sank from six to eight inches, and great + cracks opened in the streets. + </p> + <p> + San Francisco’s famous Chinatown, the greatest settlement of the + Celestials on this continent, went down like a house of cards. When the + earthquake had passed this den of squalor and infamy was no more. The + Chinese theatres and joss-houses tumbled into ruins, rookery after rookery + collapsed, and hundreds of their inhabitants were buried alive. Panic + reigned supreme among the fugitives, who filled the streets in frightened + multitudes, dragging from the wreck whatever they could save of their + treasured possessions. Much the same was the case with the Japanese + quarter, which fire quickly invaded, the people fleeing in terror, + carrying on their backs what few of their household effects they were able + to rescue. + </p> + <p> + As for the people of Chinatown, however, no one knows or will ever know + the extent of the dread fate that overcame them, for no one knows the + secrets of that dark abode of infamy and crime, whose inhabitants burrowed + underground like so many ants; and hid their secrets deep in the earth. + </p> + <p> + THE RUIN OF CHINATOWN. + </p> + <p> + W. W. Overton, of Los Angeles, thus describes the Chinatown dens and the + revelations made by the earthquake and the flames: + </p> + <p> + “Strange is the scene where San Francisco’s Chinatown stood. No heap of + smoking ruins marks the site of the wooden warrens where the Orientals + dwelt in thousands. Only a cavern remains, pitted with deep holes and + lined with dark passageways, from whose depths come smoke wreaths. White + men never knew the depth of Chinatown’s underground city. Many had gone + beneath the street level two and three stories, but now that the place had + been unmasked, men may see where its inner secrets lay. In places one can + see passages a hundred feet deep. + </p> + <p> + “The fire swept this Mongolian quarter clean. It left no shred of the + painted wooden fabric. It ate down to the bare ground, and this lies + stark, for the breezes have taken away the light ashes. Joss houses and + mission schools, groceries and opium dens, gambling resorts and theatres, + all of them went. These buildings blazed up like tissue paper. + </p> + <p> + “From this place I saw hundreds of crazed yellow men flee. In their arms + they bore opium pipes, money bags, silks and children. Beside them ran the + trousered women and some hobbled painfully. These were the men and women + of the surface. Far beneath the street levels in those cellars and + passageways were other lives. Women, who never saw the day from their + darkened prisons, and their blinking jailors were caught and eaten by the + flames.” + </p> + <p> + Devastation spread widely on all sides, ruining the homes of the rich as + well as of the poor, of Americans as well as of Europeans and Asiatics, + the marts of trade, the haunts of pleasure, the realms of science and art, + the resorts of thousands of the gay population of the Golden State + metropolis. To attempt to tell the whole story of destruction and ruin + would be to describe all for which San Francisco stood. Science suffered + in the loss of the San Francisco Academy of Sciences, which was destroyed + with its invaluable contents. This building, erected fifteen years ago at + a cost of $500,000, was a seven-story building with a rich collection of + objects of science. Much of the academy’s contents can never be replaced. + It represented the work of many years. There was a rare collection of + Pacific Sea birds which was the most valuable of its kind in the world. In + fact, the entire collection of birds ranked very high, was visited by + ornithologists from every country, and was the pride of the city. The + academy was founded in 1850, James Lick, the same man who endowed the Lick + Observatory, giving it $1,000,000, so it was on a prosperous footing. It + will take many years of active labor to replace the losses of an hour or + two of the reign of fire in this institution, while much that it held is + gone beyond restoration. + </p> + <p> + LOSS TO ART AND SCIENCE. + </p> + <p> + Art suffered as severely as science, the valuable collections in private + and public buildings being nearly all destroyed. We have spoken of the + rare paintings burned in the Bohemian Club building. The collections on + Nob’s Hill suffered as severely. When the mansions here, the Fairmount + Hotel and Mark Hopkins Institute were approached by the flames, many + attempts were made to remove some of the priceless works of art from the + buildings. A crowd of soldiers was sent to the Flood and the Huntington + mansions and the Hopkins Institute to rescue the paintings. From the + Huntington home and the Flood mansion canvases were cut from the framework + with knives. The collections in the three buildings, valued in the + hundreds of thousands, in great part were destroyed, few being saved from + the ravages of the fire. + </p> + <p> + The destruction of the libraries, with their valuable collections of + books, was also a very serious loss to the city and its people. Of these + there were nine of some prominence, the Sutro Library containing many rare + books among its 200,000 volumes, while that of the Mechanics Institute + possessed property valued at $2,000,000. The Public Library occupied a + part of the City Hall, the new building proposed by the city, with aid to + the extent of $750,000 by Andrew Carnegie, being fortunately still in + embryo. + </p> + <p> + In the burning of the banks the losses were limited to the buildings, + their money and other valuables being securely locked in fireproof vaults. + But these became so heated by the flames that it was necessary to leave + them to a gradual cooling for days, during which their treasures were + unavailable, and those with deposits, small or large, were obliged to + depend on the benevolence of the nation for food, such wealth as was left + to them being locked up beyond their reach. It was the same with the + United States Sub-Treasury, which was entirely destroyed by fire, its + vaults, which contained all the cash on hand, being alone preserved. + Guards were put over these to protect their contents against possible loss + by theft. + </p> + <p> + One serious effect of the conflagration was the general disorganization of + the telegraph system. News items were sent over the wires, but private + messages inquiring about missing friends for days failed to reach the + parties concerned or to bring any return. + </p> + <p> + That the world received news of the San Francisco disaster during the + dread day after the earthquake is due in part to the courage of the + telegraph operators, who stuck to their posts and, continued to send news + and other messages in spite of great personal danger. + </p> + <p> + The operators and officials of the Postal Telegraph Company remained in + the main office of the company, at the corner of Market and Montgomery + Streets, opposite the Palace Hotel, until they were ordered out of it + because of the danger of the dynamite explosions in the immediate + vicinity. The men proceeded to Oakland, across the bay, and took + possession of the office there. That night the company operated seven + wires from Oakland, all messages from the city being taken across the bay + in boats. As the days passed on the service gradually improved, but a week + or more passed away before the general service of the company became + satisfactory. + </p> + <p> + THE DANGER FROM THIRST. + </p> + <p> + Such news as came from the city was full of tales of horror. For a number + of days one of the chief sources of trouble was from thirst. Although the + earthquake shocks had broken water mains in probably hundreds of places, + strange to say, no water, or very little at least, appeared on the surface + of the ground. Public fountains on Market Street gave out no relief to the + thirsty thousands. At Powell and Market Streets a small stream of water + spurted up through the cobblestones and formed a muddy pool, at which the + thirsty were glad enough to drink. The soldiers, disregarding the order + not to let people move about, permitted bucket brigades to go forth and + bring back water to relieve the women and the crying children. To reach + the water it was necessary sometimes to go a mile to one of the four + reservoirs which top the hills. + </p> + <p> + Here is a story told by one observer of incidents in the city during the + fire: + </p> + <p> + “I talked to one man who slept in Alta Plaza. The fire was going on in the + district south of them, and at intervals all night exhausted fire-fighters + made their way to the plaza and dropped, with the breath out of them, + among the huddled people and the bundles of household goods. The soldiers, + who are administering affairs with all the justice of judges and all the + devotion of heroes, kept three or four buckets of water, even from the + women, for these men, who kept coming all night long. There was a little + food, also kept by the soldiers for these emergencies, and the sergeant + had in his charge one precious bottle of whisky, from which he doled out + drinks to those who were utterly exhausted. + </p> + <p> + “Over in a corner of the plaza a band of men and women were praying, and + one fanatic, driven crazy by horror, was crying out at the top of his + voice: + </p> + <p> + “‘The Lord sent it, the Lord!’ + </p> + <p> + “His hysterical crying got in the nerves of the soldiers and bade fair to + start a panic among the women and children, so the sergeant went over and + stopped it by force. All night they huddled together in this hell, with + the fire making it bright as day on all sides; and in the morning the + soldiers, using their sense again, commandeered a supply of bread from a + bakery, sent out another water squad, and fed the refugees with a + semblance of breakfast. + </p> + <p> + “There was one woman in the crowd who had been separated from her husband + in a rush of the smoke and did not know whether he was living. The women + attended to her all night and in the morning the soldiers passed her + through the lines in her search. A few Chinese made their way into the + crowd. They were trembling, pitifully scared and willing to stop wherever + the soldiers placed them. This is only a glimpse of the horrible night in + the parks and open places. + </p> + <p> + “We learn here that many of the well-to-do people in the upper residence + district have gathered in the strangers from the highways and byways and + given them shelter and comfort for the night in their living rooms and + drawing rooms. Shelter seems to have come more easily than food. Not an + ounce of supplies, of course, has come in for two days, and most of the + permanent stores are in the hands of the soldiers, who dole them out to + all comers alike. But the hungry cannot always find the military stores + and the news has not gotten about, since there are no newspapers and no + regular means of communication. + </p> + <p> + “An Italian tells me that he was taken in by a family living in a + three-story house in the fashionable Pacific Avenue. There were twenty + refugees who passed the night in the drawing room of that house, whose + mistress took down hangings to make them comfortable. In the morning all + the food that was left over in that home of wealth was enough flour and + baking powder to shake together a breakfast for the refugees. They were + hardly ready to leave that house when the fire came their way, and the + people of the house, together with the refugees, who included two Chinese, + made their way to the open ground of the Presidio. With them streamed a + procession of folks carrying valuables in bundles. + </p> + <p> + “There came out, too, tales of both heroism and crime. The firemen had + been at it for thirty-six hours under such conditions as firemen never + before faced, and they do little more than give directions, while the + volunteers, thousands of young Western men who have remained to see it + through, do the work. The troops have all that they can do to handle the + crowds in the streets and prevent panics. The work of dynamiting, tearing + down and rescuing is in the hands of the volunteers. + </p> + <p> + “This morning an eddy of flame from the edge of the burning wholesale + district ran up the slope of Russian Hill, the highest eminence in the + city. All along the edge of that hill and up the slopes are little frame + houses which hold Italians and Mexicans. A corps of volunteer aides ran + along the edge of the fire, warning people out of the houses. But the + flames ran too fast and three women were caught in the upper story of an + old frame house. A young man tore a rail from a fence, managed to climb + it, and reached the window. He bundled one woman out and slid her down the + rail; then the roof caught fire. He seized another woman and managed to + drop her on the rail, down which she slid without hurting herself a great + deal. But the roof fell while he was struggling with another woman and + they fell together into the flames. There must have been hundreds of such + heroisms and dozens of such catastrophes. We are so drunken and dulled by + horror that we take such stories calmly now. We are saturated.” + </p> + <p> + HOW LOOTING WAS HINDERED. + </p> + <p> + One thing to be strictly guarded against in those days of destruction was + the outbreak of lawlessness. A city as large as San Francisco is sure to + hold a large number of the brigands of civilization, a horde who need to + be kept under strict discipline at all times, and especially when calamity + lets down for the time being the bars of the law, at which time many of + the usually law-abiding would join their ranks if any license were + allowed. The authorities made haste to guard against this and certain + other dangers, Mayor Schmitz issuing on Wednesday the following + proclamation: + </p> + <p> + “The Federal troops, the members of the regular police force and special + police officers have been authorized to kill any and all persons engaged + in looting or in the commission of any other crime. + </p> + <p> + “I have directed all the gas and electric lighting companies not to turn + on gas or electricity until I order them to do so. You may, therefore, + expect the city to remain in darkness for an indefinite time. + </p> + <p> + “I request all citizens to remain at home from darkness until daylight + every night until order is restored. + </p> + <p> + “I warn all citizens of the danger of fire from damaged or destroyed + chimneys, broken or leaking gas pipes or fixtures or any like causes.” + </p> + <p> + He also ordered that no lights should be used in the houses and no fires + built in the houses until the chimneys had been inspected and repaired. + </p> + <p> + There was need of vigilance in this direction, for the vandals were + quickly at work. Routed out from their dens along the wharves, the rats of + the waterfront, the drifters on the back eddy of civilization, crawled out + intent on plunder. Early in the day a policeman caught one of these men + creeping through the window of a small bank on Montgomery Street and shot + him dead. But the police were kept too busy at other necessary duties to + devote much time to these wretches, and for a time many of them plundered + at will, though some of them met with quick and sure retribution. + </p> + <p> + STORIES BY SIGHTSEERS. + </p> + <p> + One onlooker says: “Were it not for the fact that the soldiers in charge + of the city do not hesitate in shooting down the ghouls the lawless + element would predominate. Not alone do the soldiers execute the law. On + Wednesday afternoon, in front of the Palace Hotel, a crowd of workers in + the mines discovered a miscreant in the act of robbing a corpse of its + jewels. Without delay he was seized, a rope obtained, and he was strung up + to a beam that was left standing in the ruined entrance of the hotel. No + sooner had he been hoisted up and a hitch taken in the rope than one of + his fellow-criminals was captured. Stopping only to obtain a few yards of + hemp, a knot was quickly tied, and the wretch was soon adorning the hotel + entrance by the side of the other dastard. + </p> + <p> + “These are the only two instances I saw, but I heard of many that were + seen by others. The soldiers do all they can, and while the unspeakable + crime of robbing the dead is undoubtedly being practiced, it would be many + times as prevalent were it not for the constant vigilance on all sides, as + well as the summary justice.” + </p> + <p> + Another observer tells of an instance of this summary justice that came + under his eyes: + </p> + <p> + “At the corner of Market and Third Streets on Wednesday I saw a man + attempting to cut the fingers from the hand of a dead woman in order to + secure the rings which adorned the stiffened fingers. Three soldiers + witnessed the deed at the same time and ordered the man to throw up his + hands. Instead of obeying the command he drew a revolver from his pocket + and began to fire at his pursuer without warning. The three soldiers, + reinforced by half a dozen uniformed patrolmen, raised their rifles to + their shoulders and fired. With the first shots the man fell, and when the + soldiers went to the body to dump it into an alley nine bullets were found + to have entered it.” + </p> + <p> + The warning this severity gave was accentuated in one instance in a most + effective manner. On a pile of bricks, stones and rubbish was thrown the + body of a man shot through the heart, and on his chest was pinned this + placard: + </p> + <p> + “Take warning!” + </p> + <p> + Those of the ghouls who saw this were likely to desist from their + detestable work, unless they valued spoils more than life. + </p> + <p> + Willis Ames, a Salt Lake City man, tells of the kind of justice done to + thieves, as it came under his observation: + </p> + <p> + “I saw man after man shot down by the troops. Most of these were ghouls. + One man made the trooper believe that one of the dead bodies lying on a + pile of rocks was his mother, and he was permitted to go up to the body. + Apparently overcome by grief, he threw himself across the corpse. In + another instant the soldiers discovered that he was chewing the diamond + earrings from the ears of the dead woman. ‘Here is where you get what is + coming to you,’ said one of the soldiers, and with that he put a bullet + through the ghoul. The diamonds were found in the man’s mouth afterward.” + </p> + <p> + Others were shot to save them from the horror of being burned alive. Max + Fast, a garment worker, tells of such an instance. He says: + </p> + <p> + “When the fire caught the Windsor Hotel at Fifth and Market Streets there + were three men on the roof, and it was impossible to get them down. Rather + than see the crazed men fall in with the roof and be roasted alive the + military officer directed his men to shoot them, which they did in the + presence of 5,000 people.” + </p> + <p> + He further states: “At Jefferson Square I saw a fatal clash between the + military and the police. A policeman ordered a soldier to take up a dead + body to put it in the wagon, and the soldier ordered the policeman to do + it. Words followed, and the soldier shot the policeman dead.” + </p> + <p> + Among the many stories of this character on record is that of a concerted + effort to break into and rob the Mint, which led to the death of fourteen + men, who were shot down by the guard in charge. They had disregarded the + command of the officer in charge to desist. They disobeyed, and the death + of nearly the whole of them followed. + </p> + <p> + DEATH FOR SLIGHT OFFENSE. + </p> + <p> + As may well be imagined, the privilege given to fire at will was very + likely to lead to examples of unjustifiable haste in the use of the rifle. + Such haste is not charged against the United States troops, but the + militia and volunteer guards showed less judgment in the use of their + weapons. Thus we are told that one man was shot for the minor offense of + washing his hands in drinking water which had been brought with great + trouble for the thirsty people gathered in Columbia Park. It is also said + that a bank clerk, searching the ruins of his bank under orders, was + killed by a soldier who thought he was looting. More than one seems to + have been shot as looters for entering their own homes. + </p> + <p> + Among the reports there is one that two men were shot through the windows + of their houses because they disobeyed the general orders and lit candles, + and one woman because she lighted a fire in her cook stove. Yet, if such + unwarranted acts existed, there were others better deserved. It is said + that three men were lined up and shot before ten thousand people. One was + caught taking the rings from a woman who had fainted, another had stolen a + piece of bread from a hungry child, and the third, little more than a boy, + was found in the act of robbing tents. One thief who escaped the bullet + richly deserved it. He came upon a Miss Logan when lying unconscious on + the floor of the St. Francis Hotel after the earthquake, and, rather than + take the time to wrench some valuable rings from her hand, cut off the + finger bearing them, and left her to the horrors of the coming fire. + </p> + <p> + The climax in the too free use of the rifle came on the 23d, when Major H. + C. Tilden, a prominent member of the General Relief Committee, was shot + and killed in his automobile by members of the citizens’ patrol. Two + others in the car were struck by bullets. The automobile had been used as + an ambulance and the Red Cross flag was displayed on it. The excuse of the + shooters was that they did not see the flag and that the car did not stop + when challenged. This act led to an order forbidding the carrying of + firearms by the citizens’ committees and to stricter regulation of the + soldiers in the use of their weapons. + </p> + <p> + Later on looting took a new form different from that at first shown and + was practiced by a different class of people. These were the sightseers, + many of them people of prominence, who entered upon a crusade of relic + hunting in Chinatown, gathering and carrying off from the ashes of this + quarter valuable pieces of chinaware, bronze ornaments, etc. It became + necessary to put a stop to this, and on April 30th four militiamen were + arrested while digging in the ruins of the Chinese bazaars, and others + were frightened away by shots fired over their heads. A strong military + line was then drawn around the district, and this last resource of the + looter came to an end. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V. + </h2> + <h3> + The Panic Flight of a Homeless Host. + </h3> + <p> + The scene that was visible in the streets of San Francisco on that dread + Wednesday morning was one to make the strongest shudder with horror. Those + three minutes of devastating earth tremors were moments never to be + forgotten. In such a time it is the human instinct to get into the open + air, and the people stumbled from their heaving and quivering houses to + find even the solid earth was swaying and rising and falling, so that here + and there great rents opened in the streets. To the panic-stricken people + the minutes that followed seemed years of terror. Doubtless some among + them died of sheer fright and more went mad with terror. There was a roar + in the air like a burst of thunder, and from all directions came the crash + of falling walls. They would run forward, then stop, as another shock + seemed to take the earth from under their feet, and many of them flung + themselves face downward on the ground in an agony of fear. + </p> + <p> + Two or three minutes seemed to pass before the fugitives found their + voices. Then the screams of women and the wild cries of men rent the air, + and with one impulse the terror-stricken host fled toward the parks, to + get themselves as far as possible from the tottering and falling walls. + These speedily became packed with people, most of them in the night + clothes in which they had leaped or been flung from their beds, screaming + and moaning at the little shocks that at intervals followed the great one. + The dawn was just breaking. The gas and electric mains were gone and the + street lamps were all out. The sky was growing white in the east, but + before the sun could fling his early rays from the horizon there came + another light, a lurid and threatening one, that of the flames that had + begun to rise in the warehouse district. + </p> + <p> + The braver men and those without families to watch over set out for this + endangered region, half dressed as they were. In the early morning light + they could see the business district below them, many of the buildings in + ruins and the flames showing redly in five or six places. Through the + streets came the fire engines, called from the outlying districts by a + general alarm. The firemen were not aware as yet that no water was to be + had. + </p> + <p> + THE PANIC IN THE SLUMS. + </p> + <p> + On Portsmouth Square the panic was indescribable. This old tree plaza, + about which the early city was built, is now in the centre of Chinatown, + of the Italian district and of the “Barbary Coast,” the “Tenderloin” of + the Western metropolis. It is the chief slum district of the city. The + tremor here ran up the Chinatown hill and shook down part of the crazy + buildings on its southern edge. It brought ruin also to some of the + Italian tenements. Portsmouth Square became the refuge of the terrified + inhabitants. Out from their underground burrows like so many rats fled the + Chinese, trembling in terror into the square, and seeking by beating gongs + and other noise-making instruments to scare off the underground demons. + Into the square from the other side came the Italian refugees. The panic + became a madness, knives were drawn in the insanity of the moment, and two + Chinamen were taken to the morgue, stabbed to death for no other reason + than pure madness. Here on one side dwelt 20,000 Chinese, and on the other + thousands of Italians, Spaniards and Mexicans, while close at hand lived + the riff-raff of the “Barbary Coast.” + </p> + <p> + Seemingly the whole of these rushed for that one square of open ground, + the two streams meeting in the centre of the square and heaping up on its + edges. There they squabbled and fought in the madness of panic and + despair, as so many mad wolves might have fought when caught in the red + whirl of a prairie fire, until the soldiers broke in and at the bayonet’s + point brought some semblance of order out of the confusion of panic + terror. + </p> + <p> + This scene in Portsmouth Square but illustrated the madness of fear + everywhere prevailing. On every side thousands were fleeing from the + roaring furnace that minute by minute seemed to extend its boundaries. + </p> + <p> + THE FLIGHT FOR SAFETY. + </p> + <p> + In the awful scramble for safety the half-crazed survivors disregarded + everything but the thought of themselves and their property. In every + excavation and hole throughout the north beach householders buried + household effects, throwing them into ditches and covering the holes. + Attempts were made to mark the graves of the property so that it could be + recovered after the flames were appeased. + </p> + <p> + The streets were filled with struggling people, some crying and weeping + and calling for missing loved ones. Crowding the sidewalks were thousands + of householders attempting to drag some of their effects to places of + safety. In some instances men with ropes were dragging trunks, tandem + style, while others had sewing machines strapped to the trunks. Again, + women were rushing for the hills, carrying on their arms only the family + cat or a bird cage. + </p> + <p> + There were two ideas in the minds of the fugitives, and in many cases + these two only. One of these was to escape to the open ground of Golden + Gate Park and the Presidio reservation; the other was to reach the ferry + and make their way out of the seemingly doomed city. + </p> + <p> + At the ferry building a crowd numbering thousands gathered, begging for + food and transportation across the bay. Hundreds had not even the ten + cents fare to Oakland. Most of the refugees at this point were Chinamen + and Italians, who had fled from their burned tenements with little or no + personal property. + </p> + <p> + Residents of the hillsides in the central portion of the city seemingly + were safe from the inferno of flames that was consuming the business + section. They watched the towering mounds of flames, and speculated as to + the extent of the territory that was doomed. Suddenly there was whispered + alarm up and down the long line of watchers, and they hurried away to drag + clothing, cooking utensils and scant provisions through the streets. From + Grant Avenue the procession moved westward. Men and women dragged trunks, + packed huge bundles of blankets, boxes of provisions—everything. + Wagons could not be hired except by paying the most extortionate rates. + </p> + <p> + “Thank Heaven for the open space of the Presidio and for Golden Gate + Park!” was the unspoken thank-offering of many hearts. The great park, + with its thousand and more acres of area, extending from the thinly + populated part of the city across the sand dunes to the Pacific, seemed in + that awful hour a God-given place of refuge. Near it and extending to the + Golden Gate channel is the Presidio military reservation, containing 1,480 + acres, and with only a few houses on its broad extent. Here also was a + place of safety, provided that the forests which form a part of its area + did not burn. + </p> + <p> + THE EXODUS FROM THE BURNING CITY. + </p> + <p> + To these open spaces, to the suburbs, in every available direction, the + fugitives streamed, in thousands, in tens of thousands, finally in + hundreds of thousands, safety from those towering flames, from the + tottering walls of their dwellings, from a possible return of the + earthquake, their one overmastering thought. There were many persons with + scanty clothing, women in underskirts and thin waists and men in shirt + sleeves. Many women carried children, while others wheeled baby carriages. + It was a strange and weird procession, that kept up unceasingly all that + dreadful day and through the night that followed, as the all-conquering + flames spread the area of terror. + </p> + <p> + At intervals news came of what was doing behind the smoke cloud. The area + of the flames spread all night. People who had decided that their houses + were outside of the dangerous area and had decided to pass the night, even + after the terrible experience of the shake-up, under their roofs, hourly + gave up the idea and struggled to the parks. There they lay in blankets, + their choicest valuables by their sides, and the soldiers kept watch and + order. Many lay on the bare grass of the park, with nothing between them + and the chill night air. Fortunately, the weather was clear and mild, but + among those who lay under the open sky were men and women who were + delicately reared, accustomed all their lives to luxurious surroundings, + and these must have suffered severely during that night of terror. + </p> + <p> + The fire was going on in the district south of them, and at intervals all + night exhausted fire-fighters made their way to the plaza and dropped, + with the breath out of them, among the huddled people and the bundles of + household goods. The soldiers, who were administering affairs with all the + justice of judges and all the devotion of heroes, kept three or four + buckets of water, even from the women, for these men, who continued to + come all the night long. There was a little food, also kept by the + soldiers for these emergencies, and the sergeant had in his charge one + precious bottle of whisky, from which he doled out drinks to those who + were utterly exhausted. + </p> + <p> + But there was no panic. The people were calm, stunned. They did not seem + to realize the extent of the calamity. They heard that the city was being + destroyed; they told each other in the most natural tone that their + residences were destroyed by the flames, but there was no hysteria, no + outcry, no criticism. + </p> + <p> + The trip to the hills and to the water front was one of terrible hardship. + Famishing women and children and exhausted men were compelled to walk + seven miles around the north shore in order to avoid the flames and reach + the ferries. Many dropped to the street under the weight of their loads, + and willing fathers and husbands, their strength almost gone, strove to + pick up and urge them forward again. + </p> + <p> + In the panic many mad things were done. Even soldiers were obliged in many + instances to prevent men and women, made insane from the misfortune that + had engulfed them, from rushing into doomed buildings in the hope of + saving valuables from the ruins. In nearly every instance such action + resulted in death to those who tried it. At Larkin and Sutter Streets, two + men and a woman broke from the police and rushed into a burning apartment + house, never to reappear. + </p> + <p> + The rush to the parks and the dunes was followed in the days that followed + by as wild a rush to the ferries, due to the mad desire to escape + anywhere, in any way, from the burning city. + </p> + <p> + THE WILD RUSH TO THE FERRIES. + </p> + <p> + At the ferry station on Wednesday night there was much confusion. Mingled + in an inextricable mass were people of every race and class on earth. A + common misfortune and hunger obliterated all distinctions. Chinese, lying + on pallets of rags, slept near exhausted white women with babies in their + arms. Bedding, household furniture of every description, pet animals and + trinkets, luggage and packages of every sort packed almost every foot of + space near the ferry building. Men spread bedding on the pavement and + calmly slept the sleep of exhaustion, while all around a bedlam of + confusion reigned. + </p> + <p> + Many of those who sought the ferry on that fatal Wednesday met a solid + wall of flames extending for squares in length and utterly impassable. In + their half insane eagerness to escape some of them would have rushed into + fatal danger but for the soldiers, who guarded the fire line and forced + them back. Only those reached the ferry who had come in precedence of the + flames, or who made a long detour to reach that avenue of flight. When the + news came to the camps of refugees that it was safe to cross the burned + area a procession began from the Golden Gate Park across the city and down + Market Street, the thoroughfare which had long been the pride of the + citizens, and a second from the Presidio, along the curving shore line of + the north bay, thence southward along the water front. Throughout these + routes, eight miles long, a continuous flow of humanity dragged its weary + way all day and far into the night amidst hundreds of vehicles, from the + clumsy garbage cart to the modern automobile. Almost every person and + every vehicle carried luggage. Drivers of vehicles were disregardful of + these exhausted, hungry refugees and drove straight through the crowd. So + dazed and deadened to all feeling were some of them that they were bumped + aside by carriage wheels or bumped out of the way by persons. + </p> + <p> + SCENES OF HUMOR AND PATHOS. + </p> + <p> + As already stated, the scene had its humorous as well as its pathetic + side, and various amusing stories are told by those who were in a frame of + mind to notice ludicrous incidents in the horrors of the situation. Two + race track men met in the drive. + </p> + <p> + “Hello, Bill; where are you living now?” asked one. + </p> + <p> + “You see that tree over there—that big one?” said Bill. “Well, you + climb that. My room is on the third branch to the left,” and they went + away laughing. + </p> + <p> + Another observer tells these incidents of the flight: “I saw one big fat + man calmly walking up Market Street, carrying a huge bird cage, and the + cage was empty. He seemed to enjoy looking at the wrecked buildings. + Another man was leading a huge Newfoundland dog and carrying a kitten in + his arms. He kept talking to the kitten. On Fell Street I noticed an old + woman, half dressed, pushing a sewing machine up the hill. A drawer fell + out, and she stopped to gather the fallen spools. Poor little seamstress, + it was now her all.” + </p> + <p> + A more amusing instance of the spirit of saving is that told by another + narrator, who says that he saw a lone woman patiently pushing an upright + piano along the pavement a few inches at a time. Evidently in this case, + too, it was the poor soul’s one great treasure on earth. + </p> + <p> + He also tells of a guest berating the proprietor of a hotel, a few minutes + after the shock, because he had not obeyed orders to call him at five + o’clock. He vowed he would never stop at that house again, a vow he might + well keep, as the house is no more. + </p> + <p> + In one room where two girls were dressing the floor gave way and one of + them disappeared. + </p> + <p> + “Where are you, Mary?” screamed her companion. + </p> + <p> + “Oh, I’m in the parlor,” said Mary calmly, as she wriggled out of the mass + of plaster and mortar below. + </p> + <p> + At the handsome residence of Rudolph Spreckels, the wealthy financier, the + lawn was riven from end to end in great gashes, while the ornamental + Italian rail leading to the imposing entrance was a battered heap. But the + family, with a philosophy notable for the occasion, calmly set up + housekeeping on the sidewalk, the women seated in armchairs taken from the + mansion and wrapped in rugs and coverlets, the silver breakfast service + was laid out on the stone coping and their morning meal spread out on the + sidewalk. This, scene was repeated at other houses of the wealthy, the + families too fearful of another shock to venture within doors. + </p> + <p> + Another story of much interest in this connection is told. On Friday + afternoon, two days and some hours after the scene just narrated, Mrs. + Rudolph Spreckels presented her husband with an heir on the lawn in front + of their mansion, while the family were awaiting the coming of the + dynamite squad to blow up their magnificent residence. An Irish woman who + had been called in to play the part of midwife at a birth elsewhere on + Saturday, made a pertinent comment after the wee one’s eyes were opened to + the walls of its tent home. + </p> + <p> + “God sends earthquakes and babies,” she said, “but He might, in His mercy, + cut out sending them both together.” + </p> + <p> + There were many pathetic incidents. Families had been sadly separated in + the confusion of the flight. Husbands had lost their wives—wives had + lost their husbands, and anxious mothers sought some word of their + children—the stories were very much the same. One pretty looking + woman in an expensive tailor-made costume badly torn, had lost her little + girl. + </p> + <p> + “I don’t think anything has happened to her,” said she, hopefully. “She is + almost eleven years old, and some one will be sure to take her in and care + for her; I only want to know where she is. That is all I care about now.” + </p> + <p> + A well-known young lady of good social position, when asked where she had + spent the night, replied: “On a grave.” + </p> + <p> + “I thank God, I thank Uncle Sam and the people of this nation,” said a + woman, clad in a red woolen wrapper, seated in front of a tent at the + Presidio nursing one child and feeding three others from a board propped + on two bricks. “We have lost our home and all we had, but we have never + been hungry nor without shelter.” + </p> + <p> + The spirit of ‘49 was vital in many of the refugees. One man wanted to + know whether the fire had reached his home. He was informed that there was + not a house standing in that section of the city. He shrugged his + shoulders and whistled. + </p> + <p> + “There’s lots of others in the same boat,” as he turned away. + </p> + <p> + “Going to build?” repeated one man, who had lost family and home inside of + two hours. “Of course, I am. They tell me that the money in the banks is + still all right, and I have some insurance. Fifteen years ago I began with + these,” showing his hands, “and I guess I’m game to do it over again. + Build again, well I wonder.” + </p> + <p> + Among the many pathetic incidents of the disaster was that of a woman who + sat at the foot of Van Ness Avenue on the hot sands on the hillside + overlooking the bay east of Fort Mason, with four little children, the + youngest a girl of three, the eldest a boy of ten years. They were + destitute of water, food and money. + </p> + <p> + The woman had fled, with her children, from a home in flames in the + Mission Street district, and tramped to the bay in the hope of sighting + the ship which she said was about due, of which her husband was the + captain. + </p> + <p> + “He would know me anywhere,” she said. And she would not move, although a + young fellow gallantly offered his tent, back on a vacant lot, in which to + shelter her children. + </p> + <p> + THE GOLDEN GATE CAMP. + </p> + <p> + In the Golden Gate Park there was the most woefully grotesque camp of + sufferers imaginable. There was no caste, no distinction of rich and poor, + social lines had been obliterated by the common misfortune, and the late + owners of property and wealth were glad to camp by the side of the day + laborer. As for shelter, there were a few army tents and some others which + afforded a fair degree of comfort, but nine out of ten are the poorest + suggestions of tents made out of bedclothes, rugs, raincoats and in some + cases of lace curtains. None of the tents or huts has a floor, and it is + impossible to see how a large number of women and children can escape the + most disastrous physical effects. + </p> + <p> + The unspeakable chaos that prevailed was apparent in no way more than in + the system, or lack of system, of registration and location. At the + entrance to Golden Gate Park stands a billboard, twenty feet high and a + hundred feet long. Originally it bore the praises of somebody’s beer. + Covering this billboard, to a height of ten or twelve feet, were slips of + paper, business cards, letter heads and other notices, addressed to “Those + interested,” “Friends and relatives,” or to some individual, telling of + the whereabouts of refugees. + </p> + <p> + One notice read: “Mrs. Rogers will find her husband in Isidora Park, + Oakland. W. H. Rogers.” Another style was this: “Sue, Harry and Will + Sollenberger all safe. Call at No. 250 Twenty-seventh Avenue.” + </p> + <p> + There were thousands of these dramatic notices on this billboard, and one + larger than the others read: “Death notices can be left here; get as many + as possible.” + </p> + <p> + Another method of finding friends and relatives was by printing notices on + vehicles. On the side curtains of a buggy being driven to Golden Gate Park + was the following sign: “I am looking for I. E. Hall.” + </p> + <p> + That searchers for lost ones might have the least trouble, all the tents, + here known as camps, were tagged with the names or numbers. For instance, + one tent of bed quilts carried this sign: “No. 40 Bush Street camp.” + </p> + <p> + Most of the tents were merely named for the family name of the occupants, + the former streets number usually being given. But these tent tags told a + wonderful story of human nature. A small army tent bore the name, “Camp + Thankful,” the one next to it was placarded “Camp Glory” and a few feet + farther on an Irishman had posted the sign “Camp Hell.” + </p> + <p> + The cooking was all done on a dozen bricks for a stove, with such utensils + as may usually be picked up in the ordinary residential alley. But in all + of the camps the badge of the eternal feminine was to be found in the form + of small pieces of broken mirrors, or hand mirrors fastened to trees or + tent walls, in some cases the polished bottom of a tomato can serving the + purposes of the feminine toilet. + </p> + <p> + One woman, in whose improvised tent screeched a parrot, sat ministering to + the wounds of the other family pet, a badly singed cat. The number of + canaries, parrots, dogs and cats was one of the amusing features of the + disaster. + </p> + <p> + Among the interesting and thrilling incidents of the disaster is that + connected with the telegraph service. For many hours virtually all the + news from San Francisco came over the wires of the Postal Telegraph + Company. The Postal has about fifteen wires running into San Francisco. + They go under the bay in cables from Oakland, and thence run underground + for several blocks down Market Street to the Postal building. About forty + operators are employed to handle the business, but evidently there was + only about one on duty when the earthquake began. + </p> + <p> + What became of him nobody knows. But he seems to have sent the first word + of the disaster. It came over the Postal wires about nine o’clock, just + when the day’s business had started in the East. It will long be preserved + in the records of the company. This was the dispatch: + </p> + <p> + “There was an earthquake hit us at 5.13 this morning, wrecking several + buildings and wrecking our offices. They are carting dead from the fallen + buildings. Fire all over town. There is no water and we lost our power. + I’m going to get out of office, as we have had a little shake every few + minutes, and it’s me for the simple life.” + </p> + <p> + “R., San Francisco, 5.50 A. M.” + </p> + <p> + “Mr. R.” evidently got out, for there was nothing doing for a brief + interval after that. The operator in the East pounded and pounded at his + key, but San Francisco was silent. The Postal people were wondering if it + was all the dream of some crazy operator or a calamity, when the wire woke + up again. It was the superintendent of the San Francisco force this time. + </p> + <p> + “We’re on the job, and are going to try and stick,” was the way the first + message came from him. + </p> + <p> + This was what came over the wire a little later: + </p> + <p> + “Terrific earthquake occurred here at 5.13 this morning. A number of + people were killed in the city. None of the Postal people were killed. + They are now carting the dead from the fallen buildings. There are many + fires, with no one to fight them. Postal building roof wrecked, but not + entire building.” + </p> + <p> + The fire got nearer and nearer to the Postal building. All of the water + mains had been destroyed around the building, the operators said, and + there was no hope if the fire came on. They also said that they could hear + the sound of dynamite blowing up buildings. All this time the operators + were sticking to their posts and sending and receiving all the business + the wires could stand. At 12.45 the wire began to click again with a + message for the little group of waiting officials. + </p> + <p> + This message came in jerks: “Fire still coming up Market Street. It’s one + block from the Post Office now; back of the Palace Hotel is a furnace. I + am afraid that the Grand Hotel and the Palace Hotel will get it soon. The + Southern Pacific offices on California Street are safe, so far, but can’t + tell what will happen. California Street is on fire. Almost everything + east of Montgomery Street and north of Market Street is on fire now.” + </p> + <p> + There was a pause, then: “We are beginning to pack up our instruments.” + </p> + <p> + “Instruments are all packed up, and we are ready to run,” was another + message. It was evident that just one instrument had been left connected + with the world outside. In about ten minutes it began to click. Those who + knew the telegraphers’ language caught the word “Good-bye,” and then the + ticks stopped. + </p> + <p> + At the end of an hour the instrument in the office began to click again. + It was from an electrician by the name of Swain. + </p> + <p> + “I’m back in the building, but they are dynamiting the building next door, + and I’ve got to get out,” was the way his message was translated. Dynamite + ended the story, and the Postal’s domicile in San Francisco ceased to + exist. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI. + </h2> + <h3> + Facing Famine and Praying for Relief. + </h3> + <p> + Frightful was the emergency of the vast host of fugitives who fled in + terror from the blazing city of San Francisco to the open gates of Golden + Gate Park and the military reservation of the Presidio. Food was wanting, + scarcely any water was to be had, death by hunger and thirst threatened + more than a quarter million of souls thus driven without warning from + their comfortable and happy homes and left without food or shelter. + Provisions, shelter tents, means of relief of various kinds were being + hurried forward in all haste, but for several days the host of fugitives + had no beds but the bare ground, no shelter but the open heavens, scarcely + a crumb of bread to eat, scarcely a gill of water to drink. Those first + days that followed the disaster were days of horror and dread. Rich and + poor were mingled together, the delicately reared with the rough sons of + toil to whom privation was no new experience. + </p> + <p> + Those who had food to sell sought to take advantage of the necessities of + the suffering by charging famine prices for their supplies, but the + soldiers put a quick stop to this. When Thursday morning broke, lines of + buyers formed before the stores whose supplies had not been commandeered. + In one of these, the first man was charged 75 cents for a loaf of bread. + The corporal in charge at that point brought his gun down with a slam. + </p> + <p> + “Bread is 10 cents a loaf in this shop,” he said. + </p> + <p> + It went. The soldier fixed the schedule of prices a little higher than in + ordinary times, and to make up for that he forced the storekeeper to give + free food to several hungry people in line who had no money to pay. In + several other places the soldiers used the same brand of horse sense. + </p> + <p> + A man with a loaf of bread in his hand ran up to a policeman on Washington + Street. “Here,” he said, “this man is trying to charge me a dollar for + this loaf of bread. Is that fair?” + </p> + <p> + “Give it to me,” said the policeman. He broke off one end of it and stuck + it in his mouth. “I am hungry myself,” he said when he had his mouth + clear. “Take the rest of it. It’s appropriated.” + </p> + <p> + As an example of the prices charged for food and service by the + unscrupulous, we may quote the experience of a Los Angeles millionaire + named John Singleton, who had been staying a day or two at the Palace + Hotel. On Wednesday he had to pay $25 for an express wagon to carry + himself, his wife and her sister to the Casino, near Golden Gate Park, and + on Thursday was charged a dollar apiece for eggs and a dollar for a loaf + of bread. Others tell of having to pay $50 for a ride to the ferry. + </p> + <p> + One of the refugees on the shores of Lake Herced Thursday morning spied a + flock of ducks and swans which the city maintained there for the + decoration of the lake. He plunged into the lake, swam out to them and + captured a fat drake. Other men and boys saw the point and followed. The + municipal ducks were all cooking in five minutes. + </p> + <p> + The soldiers were prompt to take charge of the famine situation, acting on + their own responsibility in clearing out the supplies of the little + grocery stores left standing and distributing them among the people in + need. The principal food of those who remained in the city was composed of + canned goods and crackers. The refugees who succeeded in getting out of + San Francisco were met as soon as they entered the neighboring towns by + representatives of bakers who had made large supplies of bread, and who + immediately dealt them out to the hungry people. + </p> + <p> + THE FOOD QUESTION URGENT. + </p> + <p> + But the needs of the three hundred thousand homeless and hungry people in + the city could not be met in this way, and immediate supplies in large + quantities were necessary to prevent a reign of famine from succeeding the + ravages of the fire. Danger from thirst was still more insistent than that + from hunger. There was some food to be had, bakeries were quickly built + within the military reservation there, and General Funston announced that + rations would soon reach the city and the people would be supplied from + the Presidio. But there was scarcely any water to relieve the thirst of + the suffering. Water became the incessant cry of firemen and people alike, + the one wanting it to fight the fire, the other to drink, but even for the + latter the supply was very scant. There was water in plenty in the + reservoirs, but they were distant and difficult to reach, and all night of + the day succeeding the earth shock wagons mounted with barrels and guarded + by soldiers drove through the park doling out water. There was a steady + crush around these wagons, but only one drink was allowed to a person. + </p> + <p> + Toward midnight a black, staggering body of men began to weave through the + entrance. They were volunteer fire-fighters, looking for a place to throw + themselves down and sleep. These men dropped out all along the line, and + were rolled out of the driveways by the troops. There was much splendid + unselfishness here. Women gave up their blankets and sat up or walked + about all night to cover the exhausted men who had fought fire until there + was no more fight in them. + </p> + <p> + The common destitution and suffering had, as we have said, wiped out all + social, financial and racial distinctions. The man who last Tuesday was a + prosperous merchant was obliged to occupy with his family a little plot of + ground that adjoined the open-air home of a laborer. The white man of + California forgot his antipathy to the Asiatic race, and maintained + friendly relations with his new Chinese and Japanese neighbors. The + society belle who Tuesday night was a butterfly of fashion at the grand + opera performance now assisted some factory girl in the preparation of + humble daily meals. Money had little value. The family that had had + foresight to lay in the largest stock of foodstuffs on the first day of + disaster was rated highest in the scale of wealth. + </p> + <p> + A few of the families that could secure wagons were possessors of cook + stoves, but over 95 per cent. of the refugees did their cooking on little + campfires made of brick or stone. Battered kitchen utensils that the week + before would have been regarded as useless had become articles of high + value. In fact, man had come back to nature and all lines of caste had + been obliterated, while the very thought of luxury had disappeared. It + was, in the exigency of the moment, considered good fortune to have a + scant supply of the barest necessaries of life. + </p> + <p> + As for clothing, it was in many cases of the scantiest, while numbers of + the people had brought comfortable clothing and bedding. Many others had + fled in their night garbs, and comparatively few of these had had the + self-possession to return and don their daytime clothes. As a result there + had been much improvisation of garments suitable for life in the open air, + and as the days went on many of the women arrayed themselves in home-made + bloomer costumes, a sensible innovation under the circumstances and in + view of the active outdoor work they were obliged to perform. + </p> + <p> + The grave question to be faced at this early stage was: How soon would an + adequate supply of food arrive from outside points to avert famine? Little + remained in San Francisco beyond the area swept by the fire, and the + available supply could not last more than a few days. Fresh meat + disappeared early on Wednesday and only canned foods and breadstuffs were + left. All the foodstuffs coming in on the cars were at once seized by + order of the Mayor and added to the scanty supply, the names of the + consignees being taken that this material might eventually be paid for. + The bakers agreed to work their plants to their utmost capacity and to + send all their surplus output to the relief committee. By working night + and day thousands of loaves could be provided daily. A big bakery in the + saved district started its ovens and arranged to bake 50,000 loaves before + night. The provisions were taken charge of by a committee and sent to the + various depots from which the people were being fed. Instructions were + issued by Mayor Schmitz on Thursday to break open every store containing + provisions and to distribute them to the thousands under police + supervision. A policeman reported that two grocery stores in the + neighborhood were closed, although the clerks were present. “Smash the + stores open,” ordered the Mayor, “and guard them.” In towns across the bay + the master bakers have met and fixed the price of bread at 5 cents the + loaf, with the understanding that they will refuse to sell to retailers + who attempt to charge famine prices. The committee of citizens in charge + of the situation in the stricken city proposed to use every effort to keep + food down to the ordinary price and check the efforts of speculators, who + in one instance charged as much as $3.50 for two loaves of bread and a can + of sardines. Orders were issued by the War Department to army officers to + purchase at Los Angeles immediately 200,000 rations and at Seattle 300,000 + rations and hurry them to San Francisco. The department was informed that + there were 120,000 rations at the Presidio, that thousands of refugees + were being sheltered there and that the army was feeding them. One million + rations already had been started to San Francisco by the department. But + in view of the fact that there were 300,000 fugitives to be fed the supply + available was likely to be soon exhausted. + </p> + <p> + FOOD FOR THE HUNGRY. + </p> + <p> + Such was the state of affairs at the end of the second day of the great + disaster. But meanwhile the entire country had been aroused by the tidings + of the awful calamity, the sympathetic instinct of Americans everywhere + was awakened, and it was quickly made evident that the people of the + stricken city would not be allowed to suffer for the necessaries of life. + On all sides money was contributed in large sums, the United States + Government setting the example by an immediate appropriation of + $1,000,000, and in the briefest possible interval relief trains were + speeding toward the stricken city from all quarters, carrying supplies of + food, shelter tents and other necessaries of a kind that could not await + deliberate action. + </p> + <p> + Shelter was needed almost as badly as food, for a host of the refugees had + nothing but their thin clothing to cover them, and, though the weather at + first was fine and mild, a storm might come at any time. In fact, a rain + did come, a severe one, early in the week after the disaster, pouring + nearly all night long on the shivering campers in the parks, wetting them + to the skin and soaking through the rudely improvised shelters which many + of the refugees had put up. A few days afterward came a second shower, + rendering still more evident the need of haste in providing suitable + shelter. + </p> + <p> + All this was foreseen by those in charge, and the most strenuous efforts + were made to provide the absolute necessities of life. Huge quantities of + supplies were poured into the city. From all parts of California + trainloads of food were rushed there in all haste. A steamer from the + Orient laden with food reached the city in its hour of need; another was + dispatched in all haste from Tacoma bearing $25,000 worth of food and + medical supplies, ordered by Mayor Weaver, of Philadelphia, as a first + installment of that city’s contribution. Money was telegraphed from all + quarters to the Governor of California, to be expended for food and other + supplies, and so prompt was the response to the insistent demand that by + Saturday all danger of famine was at an end; the people were being fed. + </p> + <p> + WATER FOR THE THIRSTY. + </p> + <p> + The broken waterpipes were also repaired with all possible haste, the + Spring Valley Water Company putting about one thousand men at work upon + their shattered mains, and in a very brief time water began to flow freely + in many parts of the residence section and the great difficulty of + obtaining food and water was practically at an end. Never in the history + of the country has there been a more rapid and complete demonstration of + the resourcefulness of Americans than in the way this frightful disaster + was met. + </p> + <p> + Food, water and shelter were not the only urgent needs. At first there was + absolutely no sanitary provision, and the danger of an epidemic was great. + This was a peril which the Board of Health addressed itself vigorously to + meet, and steps for improving the sanitary conditions were hastily taken. + Quick provision for sheltering the unfortunates was also made. Eight + temporary structures, 150 feet in length by 28 feet wide and 13 feet high, + were erected in Golden Gate Park, and in these sheds thousands found + reasonably comfortable quarters. This was but a beginning. More of these + buildings were rapidly erected, and by their aid the question of shelter + was in part solved. The buildings were divided into compartments large + enough to house a family, each compartment having an entrance from the + outside. This work was done under the control of the engineering + department of the United States army, which had taken steps to obtain a + full supply of lumber and had put 135 carpenters to work. Those of the + refugees who were without tents were the first to be provided for in these + temporary buildings. + </p> + <p> + THE CAMPS IN THE PARKS. + </p> + <p> + To those who made an inspection of the situation a few days after the + earthquake, the hills and beaches of San Francisco looked like an immense + tented city. For miles through the park and along the beaches from + Ingleside to the sea wall at North Beach the homeless were camped in tents—makeshifts + rigged up from a few sticks of wood and a blanket or sheet. Some few of + the more fortunate secured vehicles on which they loaded regulation tents + and were, therefore, more comfortably housed than the great majority. + Golden Gate Park and the Panhandle looked like one vast campaign ground. + It is said that fully 100,000 persons, rich and poor alike, sought refuge + in Golden Gate Park alone, and 200,000 more homeless ones located at the + other places of refuge. + </p> + <p> + At the Presidio military reservation, where probably 50,000 persons were + camped, affairs were conducted with military precision. Water was + plentiful and rations were dealt out all day long. The refugees stood + patiently in line and there was not a murmur. This characteristic was + observable all over the city. The people were brave and patient, and the + wonderful order preserved by them proved of great assistance. In Golden + Gate Park a huge supply station had been established and provisions were + dealt out. + </p> + <p> + Six hundred men from the Ocean Shore Railway arrived on Saturday night + with wagons and implements to work on the sewer system. Inspectors were + kept going from house to house, examining chimneys and issuing permits to + build fires. In fact, activity manifested itself in all quarters in the + attempt to bring order out of confusion, and in an astonishingly short + time the tented city was converted from a scene of wretched disorder into + one of order and system. + </p> + <p> + At Jefferson Park were camped thousands of people of every class in life. + On the western edge of this park is the old Scott house, where Mrs. + McKinley lay sick for two weeks in 1901. Three times a day the people all + gathered in line before the provision wagons for their little handouts. + “Yesterday,” says an observer, “I saw, in order before the wagons, a + Lascar sailor in his turban, about as low a Chinatown bum as I ever set + eyes on, a woman of refined appearance, a barefooted child, two Chinamen, + and a pretty girl. They were squeezed up together by the line, which + extended for a quarter of a mile. It is civilization in the bare bones. + </p> + <p> + “The great and rich are on a level with the poor in the struggle for bare + existence, and over them all is the perfect, unbroken discipline of the + soldiery. They came into the city and took charge on an hour’s notice, + they saved the city from itself in the three days of hell, and but for + them the city, even with enough provisions to feed them in the stores and + warehouses, must have gone hungry for lack of distributive organization.” + </p> + <p> + COMEDY AND PATHOS IN THE BREAD LINE. + </p> + <p> + At one of the parks on Tuesday morning a handsomely dressed woman with two + children at her skirts stood in a line of many hundreds where supplies + were being given out. She took some uncooked bacon, and as she reached for + it jewels sparkled on her fingers. One of the tots took a can of condensed + milk, the other a bag of cakes. + </p> + <p> + “I have money,” she said, “‘if I could get it and use it. I have property, + if I could realize on it. I have friends, if I could get to them. Meantime + I am going to cook this piece of bacon on bricks and be happy.” + </p> + <p> + She was only one of thousands like her. + </p> + <p> + In a walk through the city this note of cheerfulness of the people in the + face of an almost incredible week of horror was to a correspondent the + mitigating element to the awfulness of disaster. + </p> + <p> + In the streets of the residential district in the western addition, which + the fire did not reach, women of the houses were cooking meals on the + pavement. In most cases they had moved out the family ranges, and were + preparing the food which they had secured from the Relief Committee. + </p> + <p> + Out on Broderick street, near the Panhandle, a piano sounded. It was nigh + ten o’clock and the stars were shining after the rain. Fires gleamed up + and down through the shrubbery and the refugees sat huddled together about + the flames, with their blankets about their heads, Apache-like, in an + effort to dry out after the wetting of the afternoon. The piano, dripping + with moisture, stood on the curb, near the front of a cottage which had + been wrecked by the earthquake. + </p> + <p> + A youth with a shock of red hair sat on a cracker box and pecked at the + ivories. “Home Ain’t Nothing Like This” was thrummed from the rusting + wires with true vaudeville dash and syncopation. “Bill Bailey,” “Good Old + Summer Time,” “Dixie” and “In Toyland” followed. Three young men with + handkerchiefs wrapped about their throats in lieu of collars stood near + the pianist and with him lifted up their voices in melody. The harmony was + execrable, the time without excuse, but the songs ran through the trees of + the Panhandle, and the crows, forgetting their misery for a time, joined + the strange chorus. + </p> + <p> + The people had their tales of comedy, one being that on the morning of the + fire a richly dressed woman who lived in one of the aristocratic Sutter + Street apartments came hurrying down the street, faultlessly gowned as to + silks and sables, save that one dainty foot was shod with a high-heeled + French slipper and the other was incased in a laborer’s brogan. They say + that as she walked she careened like a bark-rigged ship before a typhoon. + </p> + <p> + An hour spent behind the counter of the food supply depot in the park + tennis court yielded rich reward to the seeker after the outlandish. The + tennis court was piled high with the plunder of several grocery stores and + the cargoes of many relief cars. A square cut in the wire screen permitted + of the insertion of a counter, behind which stood members of the militia + acting as food dispensers. Before the improvised window passed the line of + refugees, a line which stretched back fully 300 yards to Speedway track. + </p> + <p> + “I want a can of condensed cream, so I can feed my baby and my dog,” said + a large, florid-faced woman in a gaudy kimono, “and I don’t care for + crackers, but you can throw in some potted chicken if you have it.” + </p> + <p> + “What’s in that bottle over there?” queried the next applicant. “Tomato + ketchup? Well, of all the luck! Say, young man, just give me three.” + </p> + <p> + A little gray-haired woman in an India shawl peered timorously through the + window. “Just a little bit of anything you may have handy, please,” she + whispered, and she cast a careful eye about to see of any of her neighbors + had recognized her standing there in the “bread line.” + </p> + <p> + “Yesterday, at the Western Union office,” says one writer, “I saw a woman + drive up in a large motor car and beg that the telegram on which a boy had + asked a delivery fee of twenty-five cents be handed to her. She said she + had not a penny and did not know when she would have any money, but that + as soon as she had any she would pay for the message. It was given to her, + and the manager told me that there were hundreds of similar cases.” + </p> + <p> + Many weddings resulted from the disaster. Women driven out of their homes + and left destitute, appealed to the men to whom they were engaged, and + immediate marriages took place. After the first day of the disaster an + increase in the marriage licenses issued was noticed by County Clerk Cook. + This increase grew until seven marriage licenses were issued in an hour. + </p> + <p> + “I don’t live anywhere,” was the answer given in many cases when the + applicant for a license was asked the locality of his residence. “I used + to live in San Francisco.” + </p> + <p> + Births seem to have been about as common as marriages, in one night five + children being born in Golden Gate Park. In Buena Vista Park eight births + were recorded and others elsewhere, the population being thus increased at + a rate hardly in accordance with the exigencies of the situation. + </p> + <p> + THE EXODUS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. + </p> + <p> + We have spoken only of the camps of refugees within the municipal limits + of San Francisco. But in addition to these was the multitude of fugitives + who made all haste to escape from that city. This was with the full + consent of the authorities, who felt that every one gone lessened the + immediate weight upon themselves, and who issued a strict edict that those + who went must stay, that there could be no return until a counter edict + should be made public. + </p> + <p> + From the start this was one of the features of the situation. Down Market + Street, once San Francisco’s pride, now leading through piles of tottering + walls, piles of still hot bricks and twisted iron and heaps of smouldering + debris, poured a huge stream of pedestrians. Men bending under the weight + of great bundles pushed baby carriages loaded with bric-a-brac and + children. Women toiled along with their arms full, but a large proportion + were able to ride, for the relief corps had been thoroughly organized and + wagons were being pressed into service from all sides. + </p> + <p> + In constant procession they moved toward the ferry, whence the Southern + Pacific was transporting them with baggage free wherever they wished to + go. Automobiles meanwhile shot in all directions, carrying the Red Cross + flag and usually with a soldier carrying a rifle in the front seat. They + had the right of way everywhere, carrying messages and transporting the + ill to temporary hospitals and bearing succor to those in distress. + </p> + <p> + Oakland, the nearest place of resort, on the bay shore opposite San + Francisco, soon became a great city of refuge, fugitives gathering there + until 50,000 or more were sheltered within its charitable limits. Having + suffered very slightly from the earthquake that had wrecked the great city + across the bay, it was in condition to offer shelter to the unfortunate. + All day Wednesday and Thursday a stream of humanity poured from the + ferries, every one carrying personal baggage and articles saved from the + conflagration. Hundreds of Chinese men, women and children, all carrying + baggage to the limit of their strength, made their way into the limited + Chinatown of Oakland. + </p> + <p> + Multitudes of persons besieged the telegraph offices, and the crush became + so great that soldiers were stationed at the doors to keep them in line + and allow as many as possible to find standing room at the counters. + Messages were stacked yards high in the offices waiting to be sent + throughout the world. Every boat from San Francisco brought hundreds of + refugees, carrying luggage and bedding in large quantities. Many women + were bareheaded and all showed fatigue as the result of sleeplessness and + exposure to the chill air. Hundreds of these persons lined the streets of + Oakland, waiting for some one to provide them with shelter, for which the + utmost possible provision was quickly made. No one was allowed to go + hungry in Oakland and few lacked shelter. At the Oakland First + Presbyterian Church 1,800 were fed and 1,000 people were provided with + sleeping accommodations. Pews were turned into beds. Cots stood in the + aisles, in the gallery and in the Sunday school room. Every available inch + of space was occupied by some substitute for a bed. + </p> + <p> + As the days wore on the number of refugees somewhat decreased. Although + they still came in large numbers, many left on every train for different + points. Requests for free transportation were investigated as closely as + possible and all the deserving were sent away. Women and children and + married men who wished to join their families in different parts of the + State were given preference. The transportation bureau was on a street + corner, where a man stood on a box and called the names of those entitled + to passes. + </p> + <p> + Along the principal streets of Oakland there was a picturesque pilgrimage + of former householders, who dragged or carried the meagre effects they had + been able to save. The refugees who could not be cared for in Oakland made + an exodus to Berkeley and other surrounding cities, where relief + committees were actively at work. Utter despair was pictured on many + faces, which showed the effects of sleepless days and nights, and the want + of proper food. + </p> + <p> + Oakland was only one of the outside camps of refuge. At Berkeley over + 6,000 refugees sought quarters, the big gymnasium of the State University + being turned into a lodging house, while hundreds were provided with + blankets to sleep in the open air under the University oaks. The students + and professors of the University did all they could for their relief, and + the Citizens’ Relief Committee supplied them with food. + </p> + <p> + The same benevolent sympathy was manifested at all the places near the + ruined city which had escaped disaster, this aid materially reducing that + needed within San Francisco itself. + </p> + <p> + WORSHIP IN THE OPEN AIR. + </p> + <p> + Sunday dawned in San Francisco; Sunday in the camp of the refugees. On a + green knoll in Golden Gate Park, between the conservatory and the tennis + courts, a white-haired minister of the Gospel gathered his flock. It was + the Sabbath day and in the turmoil and confusion the minister did not + forget his duty. Two upright stakes and a cross-piece gave him a rude + pulpit, and beside him stood a young man with a battered brass cornet. Far + over the park stole a melody that drew hundreds of men and women from + their tents. Of all denominations and all creeds, they gathered on that + green knoll, and the men uncovered while the solemn voice repeated the + words of a grand old hymn, known wherever men and women meet to worship + the Lord: + </p> + <p> + “Other refuge have I none, hangs my helpless soul on Thee; Leave, oh, + leave me not alone, still support and comfort me!” + </p> + <p> + A moment before there had been shouting and confusion in the driveway + where some red-striped artillerymen were herding a squad of gesticulating + Chinamen as men herd sheep. The shouting died away as the minister’s voice + rose and fell and out of the stillness came the sobs of women. One little + woman in blue was making no sound, but the tears were streaming down her + cheeks. Her husband, a sturdy young fellow in his shirt sleeves, put his + arm about her shoulders and tried to comfort her as the reading went on. + </p> + <p> + “All my trust on Thee is stayed; all my help from Thee I bring; Cover my + defenseless head with the shadow of Thy wing.” + </p> + <p> + Then the cornet took up the air again and those helpless persons followed + it in quivering tones, the white-haired man of God leading them with + closed eyes. When the last verse was over, the minister raised his hands. + </p> + <p> + “Let us pray,” said he, and his congregation sank down in the grass before + him. It was a simple prayer, such a prayer as might be offered by a man + without a home or a shelter over his head—and nothing left to him + but an unshaken faith in his Creator. + </p> + <p> + “Oh, Lord, Thy ways are past finding out, but we still have faith in Thee. + We know not why Thou hast visited these people and left them homeless. + Thou knowest the reason of this desolation and of our utter helplessness. + We call on Thee for help in the hour of our great need. Bless the people + of this city, the sorrowing ones, the bereaved, gather them under Thy + mighty wing and soothe aching hearts this day.” + </p> + <p> + The women were crying again, and one big man dug his knuckles into his + eyes without shame. The man who could have listened to such a prayer + unmoved was not in Golden Gate Park that day. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII. + </h2> + <h3> + The Frightful Loss of Life and Wealth. + </h3> + <p> + While multitudes escaped from toppling buildings and crashing walls in the + dread disaster of that fatal Wednesday morning of April 18th in San + Francisco, hundreds of the less fortunate met their death in the ruins, + and horrifying scenes were witnessed by the survivors. Many of those who + escaped had tales of terror to tell. Mr. J. P. Anthony, as he fled from + the Ramona Hotel, saw a score or more of people crushed to death, and as + he walked the streets at a later hour saw bodies of the dead being carried + in garbage wagons and all kinds of vehicles to the improvised morgues, + while hospitals and storerooms were already filled with the injured. Mr. + G. A. Raymond, of Tomales, Cal., gives evidence to the same effect. As he + rushed into the street, he says that the air was filled with falling + stones and people around him were crushed to death on all sides. + </p> + <p> + Others gave testimony to the same effect. Samuel Wolf, of Salt Lake City, + tells us that he saved one woman from death in the hotel. She was rushing + blindly toward an open window, from which she would have fallen fifty feet + to the stone pavement below. “On my way down Market Street,” he says, “the + whole side of a building fell out and came so near me that I was covered + and blinded by the dust. Then I saw the first dead come by. They were + piled up in an automobile like carcasses in a butcher’s wagon, all bloody, + with crushed skulls, broken limbs and bloody faces.” + </p> + <p> + These are frightful stories, exaggerated probably from the nervous + excitement of those terrible moments, as are also the following + statements, which form part of the early accounts of the disaster. Thus we + are told that “from a three-story lodging house at Fifth and Minna + Streets, which collapsed Wednesday morning, more than seventy-five bodies + were taken to-day. There are fifty other bodies in sight in the ruins. + This building was one of the first to take fire on Fifth Street. At least + 100 persons are said to have been killed in the Cosmopolitan, on Fourth + Street. More than 150 persons are reported dead in the Brunswick Hotel, at + Seventh and Mission Streets.” + </p> + <p> + Another statement is to the effect that “at Seventh and Howard Streets a + great lodging house took fire after the first shock, before the guests had + escaped. There were few exits and nearly all the lodgers perished. Mrs. J. + J. Munson, one of those in the building, leaped with her child in her arms + from the second floor to the pavement below and escaped unhurt. She says + she was the only one who escaped from the house. Such horrors as this were + repeated at many points. B. Baker was killed while trying to get a body + from the ruins. Other rescuers heard the pitiful wail of a little child, + but were unable to get near the point from which the cry issued. Soon the + onrushing fire ended the cry and the men turned to other tasks.” + </p> + <p> + ESTIMATES OF THE DEATH LIST. + </p> + <p> + The questionable point in those statements is that the numbers of dead + spoken of in these few instances exceed the whole number given in the + official records issued two weeks after the disaster. Yet they go to + illustrate the actual horrors of the case, and are of importance for this + reason. As regards the whole number killed, in fact, there is not, and + probably never will be, a full and accurate statement. While about 350 + bodies had been recovered at the end of the second week, it was impossible + to estimate how many lay buried under the ruins, to be discovered only as + the work of excavation went on, and how many more had been utterly + consumed by the flames, leaving no trace of their existence. The estimates + of the probable loss of life ran up to 1,500 and more, while the injured + were very numerous. + </p> + <p> + The shock of the earthquake, the pulse of deep horror to which it gave + rise, the first wild impulse to flee for life, gave way in the minds of + many to a feeling of intense sympathy as agonized cries came from those + pinned down to the ruins of buildings or felled by falling bricks or + stones, and as the sight of dead bodies incrimsoned with blood met the + eyes of the survivors in the streets. From wandering aimlessly about, many + of these went earnestly to work to rescue the wounded and recover the + bodies of the slain. In this merciful work the police and the soldiers + lent their aid, and soon there was a large corps of rescuers actively + engaged. + </p> + <p> + BURYING THE DEAD. + </p> + <p> + Soon numbers were taken, alive or dead, from the ruins, passing vehicles + were pressed into the service, and the labor of mercy went on rapidly, + several buildings being quickly converted into temporary hospitals, while + the dead were conveyed to the Mechanics’ Pavilion and other available + places. Portsmouth Square became for a time a public morgue. Between + twenty and thirty corpses were laid side by side upon the trodden grass in + the absence of more suitable accommodations. It is said that when the + flames threatened to reach the square, the dead, mostly unknown, were + removed to Columbia Square, where they were buried when danger threatened + that quarter. Others were taken to the Presidio, and here the soldiers + pressed into service all men who came near and forced them to labor at + burying the dead, a temporary cemetery being opened there. So thick were + the corpses piled up that they were becoming a menace, and early in the + day the order was issued to bury them at any cost. The soldiers were + needed for other work, so, at the point of rifles, the citizens were + compelled to take to the work of burying. Some objected at first, but the + troops stood no trifling, and every man who came within reach was forced + to work. Rich men, unused to physical exertion, labored by the side of the + workingmen digging trenches in which to bury the dead. The able-bodied + being engaged in fighting the flames, General Funston ordered that the old + men and the weaklings should take the work in hand. They did it willingly + enough, but had they refused the troops on guard would have forced them. + It was ruled that every man physically capable of handling a spade or a + pick should dig for an hour. When the first shallow graves were ready the + men, under the direction of the troops, lowered the bodies, several in a + grave, and a strange burial began. The women gathered about crying. Many + of them knelt while a Catholic priest read the burial service and + pronounced absolution. All Thursday afternoon this went on. + </p> + <p> + In this connection the following stories are told: + </p> + <p> + Dr. George V. Schramm, a young medical graduate, said: + </p> + <p> + “As I was passing down Market Street with a new-found friend, an + automobile came rushing along with two soldiers in it. My doctor’s badge + protected me, but the soldiers invited my companion, a husky six-footer, + to get into the automobile. He said: + </p> + <p> + “‘I don’t want to ride, and have plenty of business to attend to.’ + </p> + <p> + “Once more they invited him, and he refused. One of the soldiers pointed a + gun at him and said: + </p> + <p> + “‘We need such men as you to save women and children and to help fight the + fire.’ + </p> + <p> + “The man was on his way to find his sister, but he yielded to the + inevitable. He worked all day with the soldiers, and when released to get + lunch he felt that he could conscientiously desert to go and find his own + loved ones.” + </p> + <p> + “Half a block down the street the soldiers were stopping all pedestrians + without the official pass which showed that they were on relief business, + and putting them to work heaving bricks off the pavement. Two dapper men + with canes, the only clean people I saw, were caught at the corner by a + sergeant, who showed great joy as he said: + </p> + <p> + “‘I give you time to git off those kid gloves, and then hustle, damn you, + hustle!’ The soldiers took delight in picking out the best dressed men and + keeping them at the brick piles for long terms. I passed them in the + shelter of a provision wagon, afraid that even my pass would not save me. + Two men are reported shot because they refused to turn in and help.” + </p> + <p> + Many of the dead, of course, will never be identified, though the names + were taken of all who were known and descriptions written of the others. A + story comes to us of one young girl who had followed for two days the body + of her father, her only relative. It had been taken from a house on + Mission Street to an undertaker’s shop just after the quake. The fire + drove her out with her charge, and it was placed in Mechanics’ Pavilion. + That went, and the body rested for a day at the Presidio, waiting burial. + With many others, she wept on the border of the burned area, while the + women cared for her. + </p> + <p> + VICTIMS TAKEN FROM THE RUINS. + </p> + <p> + On Friday eleven postal clerks, all alive, were taken from the debris of + the Post Office. All at first were thought to be dead, but it was found + that, although they were buried under the stone and timber, every one was + alive. They had been for three days without food or water. + </p> + <p> + Two theatrical people were in a hotel in Santa Rosa when the shock came. + The room was on the fourth floor. The roof collapsed. One of them was + thrown from the bed and both were caught by the descending timbers and + pinned helplessly beneath the debris. They could speak to each other and + could touch one another’s hands, but the weight was so great that they + could do nothing to liberate themselves. After three hours rescuers came, + cut a hole in the roof and both were released uninjured. + </p> + <p> + Even the docks were converted into hospitals in the stringent exigency of + the occasion, about 100 patients being stretched on Folsom street dock at + one time. In the evening tugs conveyed them to Goat Island, where they + were lodged in the hospital. The docks from Howard Street to Folsom Street + had been saved, the fire at this point not being permitted to creep + farther east than Main Street. Another series of fatalities occurred, + caused by the stampeding of a herd of cattle at Sixth and Folsom Streets. + Three hundred of the panic-stricken animals ran amuck when they saw and + felt the flames and charged wildly down the street, trampling under foot + all who were in the way. One man was gored through and through by a + maddened bull. At least a dozen persons’, it is said, were killed, though + probably this is an overestimate. One observer tells us that “the first + sight I saw was a man with blood streaming from his wounds, carrying a + dead woman in his arms. He placed the body on the floor of the court at + the Palace Hotel, and then told me he was the janitor of a big building. + The first he knew of the catastrophe he found himself in the basement, his + dead wife beside him. The building had simply split in two, and thrown + them down.” + </p> + <p> + In the camps of refuge the deaths came frequently. Physicians were + everywhere in evidence, but, without medicine or instruments, were + fearfully handicapped. Men staggered in from their herculean efforts at + the fire lines, only to fall gasping on the grass. There was nothing to be + done. Injured lay groaning. Tender hands were willing, but of water there + was none. “Water, water, for God’s sake get me some water,” was the cry + that struck into thousands of souls of San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + The list of dead was not confined to San Francisco, but extended to many + of the neighboring towns, especially to Santa Rosa, where sixty were + reported dead and a large number missing, and to the insane asylum in its + vicinity, from the ruins of which a hundred or more of dead bodies were + taken. + </p> + <p> + THE FREE USE OF RIFLES. + </p> + <p> + A citizen tells us that “in the early part of the evening, and while the + twilight lasts, there is a good deal of trafficking up and down the + sidewalks. Having finished their dinners of government provisions, cooked + on the street or in the parks, the people promenade for half an hour or + so. By half-past eight the town is closed tight. A rat scurrying in the + street will bring a soldier’s rifle to his shoulder. Any one not wearing a + uniform or a Red Cross badge is a suspicious character and may be shot + unless he halts at command. Even the men in uniform do well to stop still, + for it is hard to tell a uniform in the half light thrown up by the + burning town and the great shadows. + </p> + <p> + “Last night two of us ventured out on Van Ness Avenue a little late. There + came up the noise of some kind of a shooting scrape far down the street. + We hurried in that direction to see what was doing. An eighteen-year-old + boy in a uniform barred the way, levelled his rifle and said in a + peremptory way: + </p> + <p> + “‘Go home.’ + </p> + <p> + “We took a course down the block, where an older soldier, more + communicative but equally peremptory, informed us that we were trifling + with our lives, news or no news. + </p> + <p> + “‘We’ve shot about 300 people for one thing or another,’ he said. ‘Now, + dodge trouble. Git!’ That ended the expedition.” + </p> + <p> + THE LOSS IN WEALTH. + </p> + <p> + If we pass now from the record of the loss of lives to that of the + destruction of wealth, the estimates exceed by far any fire losses + recorded in history. + </p> + <p> + The truth is that when flames eat out the heart of a great city, devour + its vast business establishments, storehouses and warehouses, sweep + through its centres of opulence, destroy its wharves with their + accumulation of goods, spread ruin and havoc everywhere, it is impossible + at first to estimate the loss. Only gradually, as time goes on, is the + true loss discovered, and never perhaps very accurately, since the owners + and the records of riches often disappear with the wealth itself. In + regard to San Francisco, the early estimate was that three-fourths of the + city, valued at $500,000,000, was destroyed. + </p> + <p> + But early estimates are apt to be exaggerated, and on Friday, two days + after the disaster, we find this estimate reduced to $250,000,000. A few + more days passed and these figures shrunk still further, though it was + still largely conjectural, the means of making a trustworthy estimate + being very restricted. Later on the pendulum swung upward again, and two + weeks after the fire the closest estimates that could be made fixed the + property loss at close to $350,000,000, or double that of the Chicago + fire. But as the actual loss in the latter case proved considerably below + the early estimates, the same may prove to be the case with San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + Special personal losses were in many cases great. Thus the Palace Hotel + was built at a cost of $6,000,000, and the St. Francis, which originally + cost $4,000,000, was being enlarged at great expense. Several of the great + mansions on Nob’s Hill cost a million or more, the City Hall was built at + a cost of $7,000,000, the new Post Office was injured to the extent of + half a million, while a large number of other buildings might be named + whose value, with their contents, was measured in the millions. + </p> + <p> + It was not until May 3d that news came over the wires of another serious + item of loss. The merchants had waited until then for their fire-proof + safes and vaults to cool off before attempting to open them. When this was + at length done the results proved disheartening. Out of 576 vaults and + safes opened in the district east of Powell and north of Market Street, + where the flames had raged with the greatest fury, it was found that fully + forty per cent. had not performed their duty. When opened they were found + to contain nothing but heaps of ashes. The valuable account books, papers + and in some cases large sums of money had vanished, the loss of the + accounts being a severe calamity in a business sense. As all the banks + were equipped with the best fire-proof vaults, no fear was felt for the + safety of their contents. + </p> + <p> + LOOTERS IN CHINATOWN. + </p> + <p> + Chinatown suffered severely, the merchants of that locality possessing + large stocks of valuable goods, many of which were looted by seemingly + respectable sightseers after the ruins had cooled off, bronze, porcelain + and other valuable goods being taken from the ruins. One example consisted + in a mass of gold and silver valued at $2,500, which had been melted by + the fire in the store of Tai Sing, a Chinese merchant. This was found by + the police on May 3d in a place where it had been hidden by looters. + </p> + <p> + But with all its losses San Francisco does not despair. The spirit of its + citizens is heroic, and there are some hopeful signs in the air. The + insurances due are estimated to approximate $175,000,000, and there are + other moneys likely to be spent on building during the coming year, making + a total of over $200,000,000. Eastern capitalists also talk of investing + $100,000,000 of new capital in the rebuilding of the city, while the San + Francisco authorities have a project of issuing $200,000,000 of municipal + bonds, the payment to be guaranteed by the United States Government. Thus, + two weeks after the earthquake, daylight was already showing strongly + ahead and hope was fast beginning to replace despair. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII. + </h2> + <h3> + Wonderful Record of Thrilling Escapes. + </h3> + <p> + Shuddering under the memories of what seems more like a nightmare than + actual reality to the survivors of this frightful calamity, they have + tried to picture in words far from adequate the days of terror and the + nights of horror that fell to the lot of the people of the Golden Gate + city and their guests. + </p> + <p> + They recount the roar of falling structures and the groans and pitiful + cries of those pinned beneath the timbers of collapsing buildings. They + speak of their climbing over dead bodies heaped in the streets, and of + following tortuous ways to find the only avenue of escape—the ferry, + where men and women fought like infuriated animals, bent on escape from a + fiery furnace. + </p> + <p> + These refugees tell of the great caravan composed of homeless persons in + its wild flight to the hills for safety, and in that great procession + women, harnessed to vehicles, trudging along and tugging at the shafts, + hauling all that was left of their earthly belongings, and a little food + that foresight told them would be necessary to stay the pangs of hunger in + the hours of misery that must follow. + </p> + <p> + We give below an especially accurate picture from the description of the + well-known writer, Jane Tingley, who, an eye-witness of it all, did so + much to help the sufferers, and who, with all the unselfishness of true + American womanhood, sacrificed her own comfort and needs for those of + others. + </p> + <p> + “May God be merciful to the women and children in this land of desolation + and despair!” she wrote on April 21st. + </p> + <p> + “Men have done, are doing such deeds of sublime self-sacrifice, of + magnificent heroism, that deserve to make the title of American manhood + immortal in the pages of history. The rest lies with the Almighty. + </p> + <p> + “I spent all of last night and to-day in that horror city across the bay. + I went from this unharmed city of plenty, blooming with abounding health, + thronged with happy mothers and joyous children, and spent hours among the + blackened ruins and out on the windswept slopes of the sand hills by the + sea, and I heard the voice of Rachel weeping for her children in the + wilderness and mourning because she found them not. + </p> + <p> + “I climbed to the top of Strawberry Hill, in Golden Gate Park, and saw a + woman, half naked, almost starving, her hair dishevelled and an unnatural + lustre in her eyes, her gaze fixed upon the waters in the distance, and + her voice repeating over and over again: ‘Here I am, my pretties; come + here, come here.’ + </p> + <p> + “I took her by the hand and led her down to the grass at the foot of the + hill. A man—her husband—received her from me and wept as he + said: ‘She is calling our three little children. She thinks the sounds of + the ocean waves are the voices of our lost darlings.’ + </p> + <p> + “Ever since they became separated from their children in that first + terrific onrush of the multitude when the fire swept along Mission Street + these two had been tramping over the hills and parks without food or rest, + searching for their little ones. To all whom they have met they have + addressed the same pitiful question: ‘Have you seen anything of our lost + babies?’ They will not know what has become of them until order has been + brought out of chaos; until the registration headquarters of the military + authorities has secured the names of all who are among the straggling + wanderers around the camps of the homeless. Perhaps then it will be found + that these children are in a trench among the corpses of the weaklings who + have succumbed to the frightful rigors of the last three days. + </p> + <p> + “Last night a soldier seized me by the arm and cried: ‘If you are a woman + with a woman’s heart, go in there and do whatever you can.’ + </p> + <p> + “‘In there’ meant behind a barricade of brush, covered with a blanket that + had been hastily thrown together to form a rude shelter. I went in and saw + one of my own sex lying on the bare grass naked, her clothing torn to + shreds; scattered over the green beside her. She was moaning pitifully, + and it needed no words to tell a woman what the matter was, I bade my man + escort to find a doctor, or at least send more women at once. He ran off + and soon two sympathetic ladies hastened into the shelter. In an hour my + escort returned with a young medical student. Under the best ministrations + we could find, a new life was ushered into this hell, which, a few hours + before, was the fairest among cities. + </p> + <p> + “‘There have been many such cases,’ said the medical student. ‘Many of the + mothers have died—few of the babies have lived. I, personally, know + of nine babies that have been born in the park to-day. There must have + been many others here, among the sand hills, and at the Presidio.’” + </p> + <p> + “Think of it, you happy women who have become mothers in comfortable + homes, attended with every care that loving hands can bestow. Think of the + dreadful plight of these poor members of your sex. The very thought of it + is enough to make the hearts of women burst with pity. + </p> + <p> + “To-day I walked among the people crowded on the Panhandle. Opposite the + Lyon Street entrance, on the north side, I saw a young woman sitting + tailor-fashion in the roadway, which, in happier days, was the carriage + boulevard. She held a dishpan and was looking at her reflection in the + polished bottom, while another girl was arranging her hair. I recognized a + young wife, whose marriage to a prominent young lawyer eight months ago + was a gala event among that little handful of people who clung to the + old-time fashionable district of Valencia Street, like the Phelan and Dent + families, and refused to move from that aristocratic section when the + new-made, millionaires began to build their palaces on Nob Hill and + Pacific Heights. I spoke to the young woman about the disadvantages of + making her toilet under such untoward circumstances. + </p> + <p> + “‘Ah, Julia, dear, you must stay to luncheon,’ she said, extending her + fingers just as though she stood in her own drawing-room.” + </p> + <p> + MISERY DRIVES SOME INSANE. + </p> + <p> + “I looked at the maid in astonishment, for I had never met the young + society woman before. The maid shook her head and whispered when she got + the chance: + </p> + <p> + “‘My mistress is not in her right mind.’ + </p> + <p> + “‘Where is her husband?’ I asked. + </p> + <p> + “‘He has gone to try to get some food,’ said the girl. ‘She imagines that + she is in her own home, before her dressing table, and is having me do up + her hair against some of her friends dropping in.’ + </p> + <p> + “‘She must have suffered,’ I said, ‘to cause such a mental derangement.’ + </p> + <p> + “The girl’s eyes filled with tears. She told me that her mistress had seen + her brother killed by falling timbers while they were hurrying to a place + of safety. A little farther on I saw two women concealed as best they + might be behind a tuft of sand brush, one lying face down on the ground, + while the other vigorously massaged her bare back. I asked if I might + help, and learned that the ministering angel was the unmarried daughter of + one of the city’s richest merchants, and that the girl whom she succored + had been employed as a servant in her father’s household. The girl’s back + had been injured by a fall, and her mistress’ fair hands were trying to + make her well again. + </p> + <p> + “Thus has this overwhelming common woe levelled all barriers of caste and + placed the suffering multitude on a basis of democracy. On a rock behind a + manzanita bush near the edge of Stow Lake I saw a Chinaman making a pile + of broken twigs in the early morning. The man felt inside his blouse and + swore a gibbering, unintelligible Asiatic oath as his hand came forth + empty. Observing my escort, the Chinaman approached and said: + </p> + <p> + “‘Bosse, alle same, catchee match?’ + </p> + <p> + “My escort gave him the desired article, and the Chinaman made a fire of + his pile of twigs. ‘Why are you making a fire, John?’ I asked. + </p> + <p> + “‘Bleakfast,’ he replied laconically. + </p> + <p> + “I asked him where his food might be, and he gave us a quick glance of + suspicion as he said briefly, ‘No sabbe.’ + </p> + <p> + “We stood watching him, evidently to his great distress, and finally he + made bold to say, ‘You no stand lound, bosse. You go ‘way.’ + </p> + <p> + “We left him, but after making the tour around the lake came back to the + same place. There sat four people on the ground eating fried pork, + potatoes and Chinese cakes. In a young woman of the group I recognized one + whom I had seen dancing at one of Mr. Greenway’s Friday Night Cotillion + balls in the Palace Hotel’s maple room during the winter. They offered to + share their meal with us, but we told them that we had just come from + breakfast in Oakland. I told them about the strange conduct of their + Chinaman, who was traveling back and forth from his fire to the ‘table’ + with the food as it became ready to serve. + </p> + <p> + “The father of the family laughed.” + </p> + <p> + SOCIETY FOLKS COMPELLED TO CAMP. + </p> + <p> + “‘Yes,’ he said, ‘that is Charlie’s way. He has been with us many years, + and when our home was destroyed he came out here with us in preference to + seeking refuge among his countrymen in Chinatown. Yesterday we were + without food, and Charlie disappeared. I thought he had deserted us, but + toward dark he came back with a bamboo pole over his shoulder and a + Chinese market gardener’s basket suspended from either end. In one of the + baskets he had a pile of blankets and a lot of canvas. In the other was an + assortment of pork, flour, Chinese cakes and vegetables, besides a + half-dozen chickens and a couple of bagfuls of rice.’ + </p> + <p> + “‘Charlie had been foraging in Chinatown for us before the fire reached + that quarter. He made a tent and improvised beds for us, and he has the + food concealed somewhere in the vicinity, but where he will not tell us, + for fear that we will give some of it to others and reduce our own supply. + Charlie boils rice for himself. He will not touch the other food. Without + him we should have been starving.’” + </p> + <p> + G. A. Raymond, who was in the Palace Hotel when the earthquake occurred, + says: + </p> + <p> + “I had $600 in gold under my pillow. I awoke as I was thrown out of bed. + Attempting to walk, the floor shook so that I fell. I grabbed my clothing + and rushed down into the office, where dozens were already congregated. + Suddenly the lights went out, and every one rushed for the door. + </p> + <p> + “Outside I witnessed a sight I never want to see again. It was dawn and + light. I looked up. The air was filled with falling stones. People around + me were crushed to death on all sides. All around the huge buildings were + shaking and waving. Every moment there were reports like 100 cannon going + off at one time. Then streams of fire would shoot out, and other reports + followed. + </p> + <p> + “I asked a man standing by me what had happened. Before he could answer a + thousand bricks fell on him and he was killed. A woman threw her arms + around my neck. I pushed her away and fled. All around me buildings were + rocking and flames shooting. As I ran people on all sides were crying, + praying and calling for help. I thought the end of the world had come. + </p> + <p> + “I met a Catholic priest, and he said: ‘We must get to the ferry.’ He knew + the way, and we rushed down Market Street. Men, women and children were + crawling from the debris. Hundreds were rushing down the street, and every + minute people were felled by falling debris. + </p> + <p> + “At places the streets had cracked and opened. Chasms extended in all + directions. I saw a drove of cattle, wild with fright, rushing up Market + Street. I crouched beside a swaying building. As they came nearer they + disappeared, seeming to drop into the earth. When the last had gone I went + nearer and found they had indeed been precipitated into the earth, a wide + fissure having swallowed them. I worked my way around them and ran out to + the ferry. I was crazy with fear and the horrible sights. + </p> + <p> + “How I reached the ferry I cannot say. It was bedlam, pandemonium and hell + rolled into one. There must have been 10,000 people trying to get on that + boat. Men and women fought like wild cats to push their way aboard. + Clothes were torn from the backs of men and women and children + indiscriminately. Women fainted, and there was no water at hand with which + to revive them. Men lost their reason at those awful moments. One big, + strong man, beat his head against one of the iron pillars on the dock, and + cried out in a loud voice: ‘This fire must be put out! The city must be + saved!’ It was awful.” + </p> + <p> + TERRIBLE SCENE AT THE FERRY. + </p> + <p> + “When the gates were opened the mad rush began. All were swept aboard in + an irresistible tide. We were jammed on the deck like sardines in a box. + No one cared. At last the boat pulled out. Men and women were still + jumping for it, only to fall into the water and probably drown.” + </p> + <p> + The members of the Metropolitan Opera Company, of New York, were in San + Francisco at this time, and nearly all of these famous singers, known all + over the world, suffered from the great disaster. + </p> + <p> + All of the splendid scenery, stage fittings, costumes and musical + instruments were lost in the fire, which destroyed the Grand Opera House, + where the season had just opened to splendid audiences. + </p> + <p> + Many of the operatic stars have given very interesting accounts of their + experiences. Signor Caruso, the famous tenor and one of the principals of + the company, had one of the most thrilling experiences. He and Signor + Rossi, a favorite basso, and his inseparable companion, had a suite on the + seventh floor and were awakened by the terrific shaking of the building. + The shock nearly threw Caruso out of bed. He said: + </p> + <p> + “I threw open the window, and I think I let out the grandest notes I ever + hit in all my life. I do not know why I did this. I presume I was too + excited to do anything else.” + </p> + <p> + GREAT SINGERS ESCAPE. + </p> + <p> + “Looking out of the window, I saw buildings all around rocking like the + devil had hold of them. I wondered what was going on. Then I heard Rossi + come scampering into my room. ‘My God, it’s an earthquake!’ he yelled. + ‘Get your things and run!’ I grabbed what I could lay my hands on and + raced like a madman for the office. On the way down I shouted as loud as I + could so the others would wake up. + </p> + <p> + “When I got to the office I thought of my costumes and sent my valet, + Martino, back after them. He packed things up and carried the trunks down + on his back. I helped him take them to Union Square.” + </p> + <p> + It is said that ten minutes later he was seen seated on his valise in the + middle of the street. But to continue his story: + </p> + <p> + “I walked a few feet away to see how to get out, and when I came back four + Chinamen were lugging my trunks away. I grabbed one of them by the ears, + and the others jumped on me. I took out my revolver and pointed it at + them. They spit at me. I was mad, but I hated to kill them, so I found a + soldier, and he made them give up the trunks. + </p> + <p> + “Ah, that soldier was a fine fellow. He went up to the Chinamen and + slapped them upon the face, once, twice, three times. They all howled like + the devil and ran away. I put my revolver back into my pocket, and then I + thanked the soldier. He said: ‘Don’t mention it. Them Chinks would steal + the money off a dead man’s eyes.’” + </p> + <p> + They say that Rossi, though almost in tears, was heard trying his voice at + a corner near the Palace Hotel. + </p> + <p> + TEDDY’S PICTURE PROVES “OPEN SESAME.” + </p> + <p> + “I went to Lafayette Square and slept on the grass. When I tried to get + into the square the soldiers pushed me back. I pleaded with them, but they + would not listen. I had under my arm a large photograph of Theodore + Roosevelt, upon which was written: ‘With kindest regards from Theodore + Roosevelt.’ I showed them this, and one of them said: ‘If you are a friend + of Teddy, come in and make yourself at home.’ + </p> + <p> + “I put my trunks in the cellar of the Hotel St. Francis and thought they + would be safe. The hotel caught fire, and my trunks were all burned up. To + think I took so much trouble to save them!” + </p> + <p> + In spite of the news of all the woe and suffering which we hear, it is + cheering to learn also of the many thousands of heroic deeds by brave men + during the terrible scenes enacted through the four days passing since the + eventful morning when the earth began to demolish splendid buildings of + business and residence and fire sprang up to complete the city’s + destruction. The Mayor and his forces of police, the troops under command + of General Funston, volunteer aids to all these, and the husbands of + terrified wives, and the sons, brothers and other relatives who toiled for + many consecutive hours through smoke and falling walls and an inferno of + flames and explosions and traps of danger of all kinds, often without food + or water—toiling as men never toiled before to save life and relieve + distress of all kinds—all these were examples of heroism and + devotion to duty seldom witnessed in any scenes of terror in all time. + There are brave, unselfish men and heroic women yet in the world, and all + of the best of human nature has been exhibited in large dimensions in the + terrible disaster at San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX. + </h2> + <h3> + Disaster Spreads Over the Golden State + </h3> + <p> + The first news that the world received of the earthquake came direct from + San Francisco and was confined largely to descriptions of the disaster + which had overwhelmed that city. It was so sudden, so appalling, so tragic + in its nature, that for the time being it quite overshadowed the havoc and + misery wrought in a number of other California towns of lesser note. + </p> + <p> + As the truth, however, became gradually sifted out of the tangle of + rumors, the horror, instead of being diminished, was vastly increased. It + became evident that instead of this being a local catastrophe, the full + force of the seismic waves had travelled from Ukiah in the north to + Monterey in the south, a distance of about 180 miles, and had made itself + felt for a considerable distance from the Pacific westward, wrecking the + larger buildings of every town in its path, rending and ruining as it + went, and doing millions of dollars worth of damage. + </p> + <p> + THE DESTRUCTION OF SANTA ROSA. + </p> + <p> + In Santa Rosa, sixty miles to the north of San Francisco, and one of the + most beautiful towns of California, practically every building was + destroyed or badly damaged. The brick and stone business blocks, together + with the public buildings, were thrown down. The Court House, Hall of + Records, the Occidental and Santa Rosa Hotels, the Athenaeum Theatre, the + new Masonic Temple, Odd Fellows’ Block, all the banks, everything went, + and in all the city not one brick or stone building was left standing, + except the California Northwestern Depot. + </p> + <p> + In the residential portion of the city the foundations receded from under + the houses, badly wrecking about twenty of the largest and damaging every + one more or less; and here, as in San Francisco, flames followed the + earthquake, breaking out in a dozen different places at once and + completing the work of devastation. From the ruins of the fallen houses + fifty-eight bodies were taken out and interred during the first few days, + and the total of dead and injured was close to a hundred. The money loss + at this small city is estimated at $3,000,000. + </p> + <p> + The destruction of Santa Rosa gave rise to general sorrow among the + residents of the interior of the State. It was one of the show towns of + California, and not only one of the most prosperous cities in the fine + county of Sonoma, but one of the most picturesque in the State. + Surrounding it there were miles of orchards, vineyards and corn fields. + The beautiful drives of the city were adorned with bowers of roses, which + everywhere were seen growing about the homes of the people. In its + vicinity are the famous gardens of Luther Burbank, the “California + wizard,” but these fortunately escaped injury. + </p> + <p> + At San Jose, another very beautiful city of over 20,000 population, not a + single brick or stone building of two stories or over was left standing. + Among those wrecked were the Hall of justice, just completed at a cost of + $300,000; the new High School, the Presbyterian Church and St. Patrick’s + Cathedral. Numbers of people were caught in the ruins and maimed or + killed. The death list appears to have been small, but the property damage + was not less than $5,000,000. The Agnew State Insane Asylum, in the + vicinity of San Jose, was entirely destroyed, more than half the inmates + being killed or injured. + </p> + <p> + THE STANFORD UNIVERSITY. + </p> + <p> + The Leland Stanford, Jr., University, at Palo Alto (about thirty miles + south of San Francisco), felt the full force of the earthquake and was + badly wrecked. Only two lives were lost as a result of the earthquake, one + of a student, the other of a fireman, but eight students were injured more + or less seriously. The damage to the buildings is estimated by President + Jordan to amount to about $4,000,000. + </p> + <p> + The memorial church, with its twelve marble figures of the apostles, each + weighing two tons, was badly injured by the fall of its Gothic spire, + which crashed through the roof and demolished much of the interior; the + great entrance archway was split in twain and wrecked; so, too, were the + library, the gymnasium and the power house. A number of other buildings in + the outer quadrangle and some of the small workshops were seriously + damaged. + </p> + <p> + Encina Hall and the inner quadrangle were practically uninjured, and the + bulk of the books, collections and apparatus escaped damage. + </p> + <p> + Sacramento, together with all the smaller cities and towns that dot the + great Sacramento Valley for a distance fifty miles south and 150 miles + north of the capital, escaped without injury, not a single pane of glass + being broken or a brick displaced in Sacramento and no injury done in the + other places, they lying eastward of the seat of serious earthquake + activity. + </p> + <p> + Los Angeles and Santa Barbara escaped with a slight trembling; Stockton, + 103 miles north of San Francisco, felt a severe shock and the Santa Fe + bridge over the San Joaquin River at this point settled several inches. + The only place in Southern California that suffered was Brawley, a small + town lying 120 miles south of Los Angeles, about 100 buildings in the town + and the surrounding valley being injured, though none of them were + destroyed. + </p> + <p> + THE EARTHQUAKE AT OTHER CITIES. + </p> + <p> + At Alameda, on the bay opposite San Francisco, a score of chimneys were + shaken down and other injuries done. Railroad tracks were twisted, and + over 600 feet of track of the Oakland Transit Company’s railway sank four + feet. The total damage done amounted to probably $200,000, but no lives + were lost. Tomales, a place of 350 inhabitants, was left a pile of ruins. + </p> + <p> + At Los Panos several buildings were wrecked, causing damage to the extent + of $75,000, but no lives were lost. + </p> + <p> + At Loma Prieta the earthquake caused a mine house to slip down the side of + a mountain, ten men being buried in the ruins. + </p> + <p> + Fort Bragg, one of the principal lumbering towns in Mendocino County, was + practically wiped out by fire following the earthquake, but out of a + population of 5,000 only one was killed, though scores were injured. + </p> + <p> + The town of Berkeley, across the bay from San Francisco, suffered + considerable damage from twisted structures, fallen walls and broken + chimneys, the greatest injury being in the collapse of the town hall and + the ruin of the deaf and dumb asylum. The University of California, + situated here, was fortunate in escaping injury, it being reported that + not a building was harmed in the slightest degree. Another public edifice + of importance and interest, in a different section of the State, the + famous Lick Astronomical Observatory, was equally fortunate, no damage + being done to the buildings or the instruments. + </p> + <p> + AT THE STATE UNIVERSITY. + </p> + <p> + Salinas, a town down the coast near Monterey, suffered severely, the place + being to a large extent destroyed, with an estimated loss of over + $1,000,000. The Spreckels’ sugar factory and a score of other buildings + were reported ruined and a number of lives lost. During the succeeding + week several other shocks of some strength were reported from this town. + </p> + <p> + Thus the ruinous work of the earthquake stretched over a broad track of + prosperous, peaceful and happy country, embracing one of the best sections + of California, laying waste not only the towns in its path, but doing much + damage to ranch houses and country residences. Strange manifestations of + nature were reported from the interior, where the ground was opened in + many places like a ploughed field. Great rents in the earth were reported, + and for many miles north from Los Angeles miniature geysers are said to + have spouted volcano-like streams of hot mud. + </p> + <p> + Railroad tracks in some localities were badly injured, sinking or lifting, + and being put out of service until repaired. In fact, the ruinous effects + of the earthquake immensely exceeded those of any similar catastrophe ever + before known in the United States, and when the destruction done by the + succeeding conflagration in San Francisco is taken into account the + California earthquake of 1906 takes rank with the most destructive of + those recorded in history. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X. + </h2> + <h3> + All America and Canada to the Rescue + </h3> + <p> + During the first three days after the terrible news had been flashed over + the world the relief fund from the nation had leaped beyond the $5,000,000 + mark. New York took the lead in the most generous giving that the world + has ever seen. From every town and country village the people hastened to + the Town Halls, the newspaper offices and wherever help was to be found + most quickly, to add their savings and to sacrifice all but necessities + for their stricken fellow-countrymen. Never has there been such a + practical illustration of brotherly love. A perfect shower of gold and + food was poured out to the sufferers to give them immediate assistance and + to help them to a new start in life. All relief records were broken within + two days of the disaster, but still the purses of the rich and poor alike + continued to add to the huge contributions. Though the relief records were + broken, every succeeding dispatch from the West told too plainly the + terrible fact that all records of necessity were also broken. + </p> + <p> + Over the entire globe Americans wherever they were hastened to cable or + telegraph their bankers to add their share to the great work. A large fund + was at once started in London, and with contributions of from $2,000 to + $12,000 the sum was soon raised to hundreds of thousands of dollars. + </p> + <p> + Individual contributions of $100,000 were common. In addition to John D. + Rockefeller’s gift of this sum, his company, the Standard Oil, gave + another $100,000. The Steel Corporation and Andrew Carnegie each gave + $100,000. From London William Waldorf Astor cabled his American + representative, Charles A. Peabody, to place $100,000 at once at the + disposal of Mayor Schmitz, of San Francisco, which was done. The Dominion + Government of Canada made a special appropriation of $100,000 and the + Canadian Bank of Commerce, at Toronto, gave $10,000. And two of the great + steamship companies owned in Germany sent $25,000 each. + </p> + <p> + RIGHT OF WAY FOR FOOD TRAINS. + </p> + <p> + On nearly a dozen roads, two days before the fire was over, great trains + of freight cars loaded with foodstuffs were hastening at express speed to + San Francisco. They had the right of way on every line. E. H. Harriman, in + addition to giving $200,000 for the Union Pacific, Southern Pacific and + other Harriman roads, issued orders that all relief trains bound for the + desolated city should have Precedence over all other business of the + roads. + </p> + <p> + Advices from many points indicated that at least 150 freight cars loaded + with the necessaries so eagerly awaited in San Francisco were speeding + there as fast as steam could drive them. In addition, several steamers + from other Pacific coast points, all food-laden, were rushing toward the + stricken city. + </p> + <p> + The rapidity with which the various relief funds in every city grew was + almost magical. + </p> + <p> + From corporations, firms, labor unions, religious societies, individuals, + rich and poor, money flowed. Even the children in the schools gave their + pennies. Every grade of society, every branch of trade and commerce seemed + inspired by a spirit of emulation in giving. + </p> + <p> + The United States Government at once voted a contribution of $1,000,000, + and government supplies were rushed from every post in the West. + </p> + <p> + The $1,000,000 government gift, which formed the nucleus of the relief + fund, was doubled on Saturday by a resolution appropriating another, and a + vote was taken on Monday to increase this sum to $1,500,000, making a + total government contribution of $2,500,000. This was largely expended in + supplies of absolute necessaries, furnished from the stores of the War + Department, and those first sent being five carloads of army medical + supplies from St. Louis. A cargo of evaporated cream was also sent to use + in the care of little children, while the Red Cross Society shipped a + carload of eggs from Chicago. Dr. Edward Devine, special Red Cross agent + in San Francisco, was appointed to distribute these supplies. + </p> + <p> + CARGOES OF SUPPLIES. + </p> + <p> + Trainloads of other supplies were dispatched in all haste from various + points in the West and East, carrying provisions of all kinds, tents, + cots, clothing, bedding and a great variety of other articles. A special + train of twenty-six cars was dispatched from Portland, Oregon, on Thursday + night, conveying ten doctors, twenty trained nurses and 800,000 pounds of + provisions. Chicago sent meat. Minneapolis sent flour, and, in fact, every + part of the country moved in the greatest haste for the relief of the + stricken city. + </p> + <p> + There was urgent need of haste. On Friday, while the flames were still + making their way onward, General Funston telegraphed: “Famine seems + inevitable.” The people of the country took a more hopeful view of it, and + by Saturday night the spectre of famine was definitely driven from the + field and food for all the fugitives was within reach. + </p> + <p> + THE SYMPATHY OF THE PEOPLE AWAKES. + </p> + <p> + On all sides the people were awake and doing. In all the great cities + agencies to receive contributions were opened, and many of the newspapers + undertook the task of collecting and forwarding supplies. The smaller + towns were equally alert in furnishing their quota to the good work, and + from countryside and village contributions were forwarded until the fund + accumulated to an unprecedented amount. Collections were made in + factories, in stores, in offices, in the public schools; cash boxes or + globes stood in all frequented places and were rapidly filled with bank + notes; theatrical and musical entertainments were given for the benefit of + the earthquake sufferers; never had there been such an awakening. As an + instance of the spirit displayed, one man came running into a banking + house and threw a thousand dollar bill on the counter. + </p> + <p> + “For San Francisco,” he said, as he turned toward the door. + </p> + <p> + “What name?” asked the teller. + </p> + <p> + “Put it down to ‘cash,’” he answered, as he vanished. + </p> + <p> + Rapidly the fund accumulated. A few days brought it up to the $5,000,000 + mark. Then it grew to $10,000,000. Within ten days’ time the relief fund + was estimated at $18,000,000, and the good work was still going on—in + less profusion, it is true, but still the spirit was alive. + </p> + <p> + FOREIGN OFFERS OF AID. + </p> + <p> + The generous impulse was not confined to the United States. From all + countries came offers of aid. Canada was promptly in the field, and the + chief nations of Europe were quick to follow, while Japan made a generous + offer, and in far Australia funds were started at the various cities for + the sufferers. No doubt a large sum from foreign lands would have been + available had not President Roosevelt declined to accept contributions + from abroad, as not needed in view of America’s abundant response. To the + Hamburg-Line which offered $25,000, the following letter was sent: + </p> + <p> + “The President deeply appreciates your message of sympathy, and desires me + to thank you heartily for the kind offer of outside aid. Although + declining, the President earnestly wishes you to understand how much he + appreciates your cordial and generous sympathy.” + </p> + <p> + All other offerings from abroad were in the same thankful spirit declined, + even those from our immediate neighbors, Canada and Mexico. Some feeling + was aroused by this, especially in the relief committee at San Francisco, + which felt that the need of that city was so great and urgent that no + offer of relief should have been declined. In response the President + explained that he only spoke for the government, in his official capacity, + and that San Francisco was in no sense debarred from accepting any + contributions made directly to it. + </p> + <p> + It may justly be said for the people of this country that their + spontaneous generosity in the presence of a great calamity, either at home + or abroad, is always magnificent. It never waits for solicitation. It does + not delay even until the necessity is demonstrated, but it assumes that + where there is great destruction of property and homes are swept away + there must be distress which calls for immediate relief. + </p> + <p> + There is one ray of light in the gloom caused by the calamity at San + Francisco. A truly splendid display of brotherly love and sympathy has + been shown by the people of this country, and a similar display was ready + to be shown by the people of the civilized world had it been felt that the + occasion demanded it and that the exigency surpassed the power of our + people to meet it. + </p> + <p> + ENTERPRISE IN SAN FRANCISCO. + </p> + <p> + In the face of an appalling and death-dealing disaster, rendering an + entire community dependent for the bare necessities of life and putting it + in imminent danger of greater horrors, the nation has been stirred as it + has rarely been before, and there have been awakened those deeper feelings + of brotherhood which are referred to in the oft-quoted passage that “one + touch of nature makes the whole world akin.” + </p> + <p> + The nature indicated in this instance is human nature in its highest + manifestation, the sympathetic sentiment that stirs deeply in all our + hearts and needs but the occasion to make itself warmly manifested. There + is something incomparably splendid in the spectacle of an entire nation + straining every nerve to send succor to the helpless and the suffering, + and this spectacle has warmed the hearts of our people to the uttermost + and inspired them to make the most strenuous efforts to drive away the + gaunt wolf of famine from the ruined homes of our far Pacific brethren. + </p> + <p> + It may be said that San Francisco will be willing to accept this relief + only so long as stern necessity demands it. At this writing only two weeks + have passed since the dread calamity, and already active steps are being + taken to provide for themselves. As an example of their enterprise, it may + be said that their newspapers hardly suspended at all, the Evening Post + alone suspending publication for a time from being unable to acquire a + plant in the vicinity of the city. When the conflagration made it apparent + that all plants would be destroyed, the Bulletin put at work a force in + its composing rooms, a hand-bill was set and some hundreds of copies run + off on the proof-press, giving the salient features of the day’s news. + </p> + <p> + The morning papers, the Call, Chronicle and Examiner, retired to Oakland, + on the other side of the bay, and there, on Thursday morning, issued a + joint paper from the office of the Oakland Tribune. On Friday morning they + split forces again, the Examiner retaining the use of the Tribune plant + and the Call and Chronicle issuing from the office of the Oakland Herald. + Two days later the Call secured the service of the Oakland Enquirer plant. + Meantime, on Friday, the Bulletin, after a suspension of one day, made + arrangements for the use in the afternoon of the Oakland Herald equipment, + and from these sources and under such circumstances the San Francisco + papers have been issuing. + </p> + <p> + Offices were hurriedly opened on Fillmore Street, which today is the main + thoroughfare of San Francisco, and from these headquarters the news of the + day as it is gathered is transmitted by means of automobiles and ferry + service to the Oakland shore. + </p> + <p> + There also were accepted such advertisements as had been offered. The + number of these was, perhaps, the best visual sign of the resurrection of + the new city. It was noted that in a fourteen-page paper printed within + two weeks after the fire by the Examiner there were over nine pages of + advertisements, and in a sixteen-page paper published by the Chronicle at + least fifty per cent. of its space was devoted to the same end. + </p> + <p> + Many of the larger factories left unharmed were also quick to start work. + At the Union Iron Works 2,300 men were promptly employed, and the + management expected within a fortnight to have the full complement of its + force, nearly 4,000 men, engaged. No damage was done to the three new + warships being built at these works for the government, the cruisers + California and Milwaukee and the battleship South Dakota. The steamer City + of Puebla, which was sunk in the bay, has been raised and is being + repaired. Workmen are also engaged fixing the steamship Columbia, which + was turned on her side. The hulls of the new Hawaiian-American Steamship + Company’s liners were pitched about four feet to the south, but were + uninjured and only need to be replaced in position. + </p> + <p> + As for the working people at large, those without funds for their own + support, abundant employment will quickly be provided for them in the + necessary work of clearing away the debris, thus opening the way to a + resumption of business and reducing the number requiring relief. The ukase + has already been issued that all able-bodied men needing aid must go to + work or leave the city. + </p> + <p> + This dictum of Chief of Police Dinan’s will be strictly enforced. The + relief work and distribution of food and clothing are attracting a certain + element to the city which does not desire to labor, while some already + here prefer to live on the generosity of others. Chief Dinan has + determined that those who apply for relief and refuse work when it is + offered them shall leave the city or be arrested for vagrancy. The police + judges have suggested establishing a chain gang and putting all vagrants + and petty offenders at work clearing up the ruins. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps never in the history of the city has there been so little crime in + San Francisco. With the saloons closed, Chinatown, the Barbary Coast, and + other haunts of criminals wiped out, and soldiers and marines on almost + every block in the residence districts, there have been few crimes of any + kind. It is the opinion of the police that most of the criminal element + has left the city. The saloons, in all probability will remain closed for + two more months. + </p> + <p> + THE PROBLEM OF THE CHINESE. + </p> + <p> + In conclusion of this chapter it is advisable to refer to the situation of + one of the elements of San Francisco’s population, the people of + Chinatown. One of the problems facing the relief committees on both sides + of the bay is the sheltering of the Chinese. Many of them are destitute. + It has long been a question in San Francisco what should be done with + Chinatown, and moving the Chinese in the direction of Colma has been + agitated. Now they are without homes and without prospects of procuring + any. They can get no land. The limits of Oakland’s Chinatown have already + been extended, and the strictest police regulations are in force to + prevent further enlargement. On this side of the bay they are camping in + open lots. Unless the government undertakes their relief, they are in + grave danger. Those who have money cannot purchase property, as no one + will sell to them. Few, however, even of the wealthiest merchants in + Chinatown, saved anything of value, for their wealth was invested in the + Oriental village which had sprung up in the heart of the area burned. + </p> + <p> + Yet it is the desire of the municipality not to harass this portion of its + foreign population, and the vexatious problem of placing the new Chinatown + will probably be settled to the satisfaction of the Chinese colony. This + colony diverts an important part of the trade of San Francisco to that + city, and if its members are dealt with unjustly there is danger of losing + this trade. The question is one that must be left for the future to + decide, but no doubt care will be taken that a new Chinatown with the + unsavory conditions of the old shall not arise. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI. + </h2> + <h3> + San Francisco of the Past + </h3> + <p> + The story of San Francisco’s history and tragedy appeal with extraordinary + force to the imagination of all civilized men. For several generations the + city was looked upon as an Arabian Night’s dream—a place where gold + lay in the streets and joy and happiness were unlimited. Its settlement, + or, rather, its real rise as a city, was as by magic. It was first a city + of tents, of shanties, of “shacks,” lying on the rim of a great, spacious + bay. Ships of all sizes and rigs brought gold-seekers and provisions from + the East, all the way round Cape Horn, after voyages of weary months, and + at San Francisco their crews deserted and hundreds of these craft were + left at their moorings to rot. Ashore was a riot of money, prodigious + extravagance, mean, shabby appointments, sudden riches, great + disappointment, revelry, improvidence and suicide. + </p> + <p> + The streets that now lay squares from the water were then at the water’s + edge and batteaus brought cargoes ashore. Long wharves—one was for + years called the Long Wharf even after there were others built much longer—led + out over the shallow water. These shallows were later filled and streets + built upon them, and upon them arose warehouses, hotels, factories, + lodging houses and business places. + </p> + <p> + The city grew rapidly in the direction away from the bay. But in its early + days it was a city with no confidence in its own stability, and its + buildings were accordingly unstable. A few minor earthquakes shook some of + these down years ago and established in the minds of the people a horror + of earthquakes. Frame houses became the rule. + </p> + <p> + In its ensuing life San Francisco developed the attributes of a city of + gayety tempered by business. The population, for the most part, affected + light-hearted scorn of money, or, rather, of saving money. It made mirth + of life, habituated itself to expect windfalls such as miners and + prospectors dream of, developed a moderate amount of business, and enjoyed + the day while there was sunlight and the night when there was artificial + light. The windfalls grew less frequent, mining became a costly and + scientific process, and agriculture succeeded it. But, though it was only + necessary to tickle the land with a hoe and pour water upon the tickled + spot, to have it laugh with two, three or even four harvests a year, + agriculturists continued scarce. The Chinese truck farms, some of which + lay within the city’s lines, supplied the small fruits and vegetables. + Across the bay white men farmed, and grapes, fruits, vegetables and + flowers of prodigious variety and monstrous dimensions were grown. But + Eastern men came to do the farming. The Californian who himself was an + “Argonaut,” or whose father was an Argonaut, found no attractions in the + steady labor of farming. + </p> + <p> + There followed a period of depression, ascribed by many to the influx of + the Chinese and their effect upon the labor market, though the army of the + unemployed were as a rule unwilling to do the work their Celestial rivals + engaged in, that of truck farming, fruit raising, manual household labor, + wood cutting and the like. A heavy weight settled on the city; business + grew slack; the army of the unemployed, of ruined speculators and + moneyless newcomers grew steadily greater, and for an era San Francisco + saw its dark side. + </p> + <p> + But this was not a long duration. There was fast developing a new and + important business, resulting from the development of the real resources + of the State—the fruits, particularly the citrous fruits that grew + abundantly in the warm valley. Fortunes were made in oranges, lemons, + limes, grapes, almonds and pears. Raisins, whose size defied anything + heretofore known, were made from the huge grapes that grew in the San + Joaquin Valley. Sonoma sent its grapes to be made into wine. Capital + flowed in from every side. Eastern men in search of health, others in + search of wealth, came to the Golden State. No matter who came, where they + came from, or where they were going, they spent a few days, or many, and + some money, or much, in “‘Frisco.” The enterprise of the second edition + pioneers quickly transformed the State and city. + </p> + <p> + AGRICULTURE BRINGS NEW WEALTH. + </p> + <p> + Luxury was startling. San Francisco’s mercantile community equaled the + best, the stores and shops were as beautiful as anywhere in the world and + proportionately as well patronized. Theatres, music halls, restaurants, + hotel bars and the like were ablaze with lights at night, and patronized + by a gay throng. Sutro’s bath, near the Cliff House, was a species of + entertainment unequaled anywhere. The Presidio, as the army post is still + known, as in the Spanish nomenclature, gave its drills, regarded as free + exhibitions for the people. Golden Gate Park was an endless daily picnic + ground. + </p> + <p> + The crowds in the streets of San Francisco were noticeably well dressed + and usually gay, without that fixed, drawn, saturnine look noticeable + among the people of the East. It is doubtful whether, upon the whole, the + earnings of the San Francisco man equaled those of his Eastern brother, + but his holidays were frequent and his joys greater. The grind of life was + not yet steady—men had not become mere machines. + </p> + <p> + The climate of California is peculiar; it is hard to give an impression of + it. In the first place, all the forces of nature work on laws of their own + in that part of California. There is no thunder or lightning; there is no + snow, except a flurry once in five or six years; there are perhaps half a + dozen nights in the winter when the thermometer drops low enough so that + there is a little film of ice on exposed water in the morning. Neither is + there any hot weather. Yet most Easterners remaining in San Francisco for + a few days remember that they were always chilly. + </p> + <p> + A PECULIAR YET DELIGHTFUL CLIMATE. + </p> + <p> + For the Gate is a big funnel, drawing in the winds and the mists which + cool off the great, hot interior valley of San Joaquin and Sacramento. So + the west wind blows steadily ten months of the year and almost all the + mornings are foggy. This keeps the temperature steady at about 55 degrees—a + little cool for comfort of an unacclimated person, especially indoors. + Californians, used to it, hardly ever think of making fires in their + houses except in the few exceptional days of the winter season, and then + they rely mainly upon fireplaces. This is like the custom of the Venetians + and the Florentines. + </p> + <p> + But give an Easterner six months of it, and he, too, learns to exist + without a chill in a steady temperature a little lower than that to which + he is accustomed at home. After that one goes about with perfect + indifference to the temperature. Summer and winter San Francisco women + wear light tailor-made clothes, and men wear the same fall-weight suits + all the year around. + </p> + <p> + Except for the modern buildings, the fruit of the last ten years, the town + presented at first sight to the newcomer a disreputable appearance. Most + of the buildings were low and of wood. In the middle period of the 70’s, + when a great part of San Francisco was building, there was some atrocious + architecture perpetrated. In that time, too, every one put bow windows on + his house, to catch all of the morning sunlight that was coming through + the fog, and those little houses, with bow windows and fancy work all down + their fronts, were characteristic of the middle class residence districts. + </p> + <p> + Then the Italians, who tumbled over Telegraph Hill, had built as they + listed and with little regard for streets, and their houses hung crazily + on a side hill which was little less than a precipice. For the most part + the Chinese, although they occupied an abandoned business district, had + remade the houses Chinese fashion, and the Mexicans and Spaniards had + added to their houses those little balconies without which life is not + life to a Spaniard. + </p> + <p> + The hills are steep beyond conception. Where Vallejo Street ran up Russian + Hill it progressed for four blocks by regular steps like a flight of + stairs. + </p> + <p> + With these hills, with the strangeness of the architecture, and with the + green gray tinge over everything, the city fell always into vistas and + pictures, a setting for the romance which hung over everything, which has + always hung over life in San Francisco since the padres came and gathered + the Indians about Mission Dolores. + </p> + <p> + And it was a city of romance and a gateway to adventure. It opened out on + the mysterious Pacific, the untamed ocean, and most of China, Japan, the + South Sea Islands, Lower California, the west coast of Central America, + Australia that came to this country passed in through the Golden Gate. + There was a sprinkling, too, of Alaska and Siberia. From his windows on + Russian Hill one saw always something strange and suggestive creeping + through the mists of the bay. It would be a South Sea Island brig, + bringing in copra, to take out cottons and idols; a Chinese junk with + fan-like sails, back from an expedition after sharks’ livers; an old + whaler, which seemed to drip oil, back from a year of cruising in the + Arctic. Even, the tramp windjammers were deep-chested craft, capable of + rounding the Horn or of circumnavigating the globe; and they came in + streaked and picturesque from their long voyaging. + </p> + <p> + A MIXTURE OF RACES. + </p> + <p> + In the orange colored dawn which always comes through the mists of that + bay, the fishing fleet would crawl in under triangular lateen sails, for + the fishermen of San Francisco Bay are all Neapolitans, who have brought + their costumes and sail with lateen rigs shaped like the ear of a horse + when the wind fills them and stained an orange brown. + </p> + <p> + The “smelting pot of the races” Stevenson called the region along the + water front, for here the people of all these craft met, Italians, Greeks, + Russians, Lascars, Kanakas, Alaska Indians, black Gilbert Islanders, + Spanish-Americans, wanderers and sailors from all the world, who came in + and out from among the queer craft to lose themselves in the disreputable + shanties and saloons. The Barbary Coast was a veritable bit of Satan’s + realm. The place was made up of three solid blocks of dance halls, for the + delectation of the sailors of the world. Within those streets of peril the + respectable never set foot; behind the swinging doors of those saloons + anything might be happening, crime was as common here as drink, and much + went on of which the law was blankly ignorant. + </p> + <p> + Not far removed from this haunt of crime was the world-famous Chinatown, a + district six blocks long and two wide, and housing when at its fullest + some 30,000 Chinese. Old business houses at first, the new inmates added + to them, rebuilt them, ran out their own balconies and entrances, and gave + them that feeling of huddled irregularity which makes all Chinese built + dwellings fall naturally into pictures. Not only this, they burrowed to a + depth equal to three stories under the ground, and through this ran + passages in which the Chinese transacted their dark and devious affairs—as + the smuggling of opium, the traffic in slave girls and the settlement of + their difficulties, by murder if they saw fit. The law was powerless to + prevent or discover and convict the murderers. + </p> + <p> + Chinatown is gone; the Barbary Coast is gone; the haunts of crime have + been swept by the devouring flames, and if the citizens can prevent they + will never be restored. The old San Francisco is dead. The gayest, + lightest-hearted, most pleasure-loving city of this continent, and in many + ways the most interesting and romantic, is a horde of huddled refugees + living among ruins. It may rebuild; it probably will; but those who have + known that peculiar city by the Golden Gate and have caught its flavor of + the Arabian Nights feel that it can never be the same. When it rises out + of its ashes it will probably doubtless resemble other modern cities and + have lost its old strange flavor. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII. + </h2> + <h3> + Life in the Metropolis of the Pacific + </h3> + <p> + Brought up in a bountiful country, where no one really has to work very + hard to live, nurtured on adventure, scion of a free and merry stock, the + real, native Californian is a distinctive type; as far from the Easterner + in psychology as the extreme Southern is from the Yankee. He is easy + going, witty, hospitable, lovable, inclined to be unmoral rather than + immoral in his personal habits, and above all easy to meet and to know. + </p> + <p> + Above all there is an art sense all through the populace which sets it off + from any other part of the country. This sense is almost Latin in its + strength, and the Californian owes it to the leaven of Latin blood. + </p> + <p> + THE ‘FRISCO RESTAURANTS. + </p> + <p> + With such a people life was always gay. If they did not show it on the + streets, as do the people of Paris, it was because the winds made open + cafes disagreeable at all seasons of the year. The gayety went on indoors + or out on the hundreds of estates that fringed the city. It was noted for + its restaurants. Perhaps people who cared not how they spent their money + could get the best they wished, but for a dollar down to as low as fifteen + cents the restaurants furnished the best fare to be had anywhere at the + price. + </p> + <p> + The country all about produced everything that a cook needs, and that in + abundance—the bay was an almost untapped fish-pond, the fruit farms + came up to the very edge of the town, and the surrounding country produced + in abundance fine meats, all cereals and all vegetables. + </p> + <p> + But the chefs who came from France in the early days and liked this land + of plenty were the head and front of it. They passed their art to other + Frenchmen or to the clever Chinese. Most of the French chefs at the + biggest restaurants were born in Canton, China. Later the Italians, + learning of this country where good food is appreciated, came and brought + their own style. Householders always dined out one or two nights of the + week, and boarding houses were scarce, for the unattached preferred the + restaurants. The eating was usually better than the surroundings. + </p> + <p> + THE FAMOUS POODLE DOG. + </p> + <p> + Meals that were marvels were served in tumbledown little hotels. Most + famous of all the restaurants was the Poodle Dog. There have been no less + than four restaurants of this name, beginning with a frame shanty where, + in the early days, a prince of French cooks used to exchange recipes for + gold dust. Each succeeding restaurant of the name has moved farther + downtown; and the recent Poodle Dog stands—or stood—on the + edge of the Tenderloin in a modern five-story building. And it typified a + certain spirit that there was in San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + On the ground floor was a public restaurant where there was served the + best dollar dinner on earth. It ranked with the best and the others were + in San Francisco. Here, especially on Sunday night, almost everybody went + to vary the monotony of home cooking. Every one who was any one in the + town could be seen there off and on. It was perfectly respectable. A man + might take his wife and daughter there. + </p> + <p> + On the second floor there were private dining rooms, and to dine there, + with one or more of the opposite sex, was risque but not especially + terrible. But the third floor—and the fourth floor—and the + fifth! The elevator man of the Poodle Dog, who had held the job for many + years and never spoke unless spoken to, wore diamonds and was a heavy + investor in real estate. + </p> + <p> + There were others as famous in their way—Zinkaud’s, where, at one + time, every one went after the theatre, and Tate’s, which has lately + bitten into that trade; the Palace Grill, much like the grills of Eastern + hotels, except for the price; Delmonico’s, which ran the Poodle Dog neck + and neck in its own line, and many others, humbler, but great at the + price. + </p> + <p> + THE BOHEMIAN CLUB. + </p> + <p> + To the visitor who came to see the city and who put himself in the hands + of one of its well-to-do citizens for the purpose, the few days that + followed were apt to be a whirl of mirth and sight-seeing, made up of + breakfasts, luncheons, dinners, drives, little trips across the bay, + dashes down the peninsula to the polo and country clubs, hours spent in + Bohemia, trips around the world among all the races of the habitable + globe, all of whom had their colonies in this most cosmopolitan of + American cities. + </p> + <p> + In club life the Bohemian stood first and foremost, the famous club whose + meeting place, with all its art treasures, is now a heap of ashes, but + which was formerly ‘Frisco’s head-centre of mirth. Founded by Henry + George, the world-famous single tax advocate, when he was an impecunious + scribbler on the San Francisco Post, it grew to be the choicest place of + resort in the Pacific metropolis. + </p> + <p> + Within its walls the possession of dollars was a bar rather than an “open + sesame,” the master key to its circles being the knack of telling a good + story or the possession of quick and telling wit. Fun-making was the rule + there, and the only way to escape being made its victim was the power to + deliver a ready and witty retort. In this home of good fellowship all the + artists, actors, wits, literati, fiddlers, pianists and bon vivants were + members. Here an impoverished painter could square his grill and buffet + account by giving the club a daub to hang on its walls. Here in days of + old the Sheriff used to camp regularly once a month until the members + rustled up the money to replevin the furniture. But these days of poverty + passed away, and in later years the club came to know prosperity beyond + the dreams of the good fellows who founded it. + </p> + <p> + THE WICKEDEST AND GAYEST. + </p> + <p> + The Bohemian is gone, but the spirit that founded and made it still + exists, and we may look to see it rise, like the phoenix, from its ashes. + </p> + <p> + San Francisco was often called the wickedest city in America. It was + hardly that, it was simply the gayest. It was not the home of purity; + neither is any other city. What other cities do behind closed doors San + Francisco did not hesitate to do in the open. + </p> + <p> + In Eastern cities the police have driven vice into tenements, lodging + houses and apartments. San Francisco did not do that. She had certain + quarters where, according to unwritten law, vice was allowed to abide, and + she did not try to hide the fact that it could be found there. She was not + secretly immoral; she was frankly unmoral. + </p> + <p> + She did not believe in driving her vice from the open where it could be + recognized and controlled—prevented from doing any more harm than it + was possible to stop—into districts of the city where good people + dwell and purity would feel its contaminating influence. There were + regions in which the respectable never set foot, haunts of acknowledged + vice which for virtue to enter would be to lose caste. + </p> + <p> + As for its gayety, San Francisco was proud of the reputation of being the + Paris of America. Its women were beautiful, and they knew it. They liked + to adorn their beauty with fine clothes and peacock along the streets on + matinee days. If you asked a San Francisco girl why she wore such + expensive clothes, she would say, frankly, “Because I like to have the men + admire me,” and she would see no harm in saying it. There was very little + sham about the San Francisco women. Their men understood them and + worshiped them. They bore themselves with the freedom that was theirs by + right of their heritage of open-air living, the Bohemian atmosphere they + breathed, the unconventional character of their surroundings. Their + figures were strong and well moulded, their faces bloomed with health like + the roses in their gardens. They drew the wine of laughter from their + balmy California air. Sorrow and trouble sat lightly on their shoulders. + </p> + <p> + There was no end of enjoyments. After the theatre they would go to + Zinkaud’s, Tate’s, the Palace or some other of the many places of resort, + for a snack to eat and a spell under the music, which was to be heard + everywhere. + </p> + <p> + Another part of the gay life of the city was for a private dance to keep + going all night in a fashionable residence, and at daylight, instead of + everybody going to bed, to jump into automobiles or carriages or take the + trolley cars and whizz off to the beach for a dip in the cold salt water + pool at Sutro’s baths, and then, with ravenous appetites, sit down on the + Cliff House balcony to an open-air breakfast while watching the ships sail + in and out at the Golden Gate and hearing the seals barking on the rocks. + After that home and to rest. + </p> + <p> + AN ALL-NIGHT TOWN. + </p> + <p> + The city never went to sleep altogether. It was “an all-night” town. Few + of the restaurants ever closed, none of the saloons did. Always during the + whole twenty-four hours of the day there was “something doing” in the + Tenderloin. No hour of the night was ever free of revelry. It was + marvelous how they kept it up. The average San Franciscan could stay awake + all night at a card game, take a cold wash and a good breakfast in the + morning, and go straight downtown to business and feel none the worse for + it. + </p> + <p> + It was a gay town, a captivating, piquant, audacious, but not especially + wicked city. A Frenchy, a risque city it might justly have been called, + but it was not wicked in the sense that sordid vice, vulgar crime and + wretched squalor constitute wickedness. + </p> + <p> + It was a lovable place that everybody longed to get back to, once having + been there. A woman, leaving it for years, watched it from the ferryboat, + and, weeping, said, “San Francisco, oh, my San Francisco, I am leaving + thee.” + </p> + <p> + Will those who left it after the fire ever get back to their old city + again? We have already expressed our doubt of this. The old San Francisco + is probably gone, never to return. The new San Francisco will be a + cleaner, saner and safer city, destitute of its rookeries, its tenements + and its Chinatown. It will be a greater and more sightly city than that of + the past, but to those who knew and loved the old San Francisco—San + Francisco the captivating, the maddest, gayest, liveliest and most + rollicking in the country—there must be something impressibly sad to + its old inhabitants in the reflection that the new city of the Golden Gate + can never be quite the same as the haven of their early affections. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII. + </h2> + <h3> + Plans to Rebuild San Francisco. + </h3> + <p> + Almost as soon as the terrible conflagration had been checked and gotten + under control by the heroic efforts of the soldiers and firemen, a little + group of the leading citizens of the desolated city had met in the office + of Mayor Eugene E. Schmitz and had begun to plan the restoration of their + municipality. It was an admirable courage, bred in the stock of those men + who in 1849 left comfortable homes in the East to seek their fortune in + the Golden State, that inspired the loyal leaders of the present day + citizens to provide with far-seeing eyes for the rebuilding of their homes + and business houses with more orderly precision after the fire than had + been possible during the hustle of early days in a new city. + </p> + <p> + The old San Francisco was no more, and never could be recalled save as a + memory. The local color, atmosphere, that which might be termed the + feeling of the old city, vanished with the clustered houses, as rich in + tradition as the ancient missions in whose cloisters worshiped the Spanish + padre “before the Gringo came.” Heartrending as it was to the citizens who + loved their homes and haunts to see them disappear into smoke, there was + an attraction about the city of the Golden Gate which endeared it to all + Americans. + </p> + <p> + One of San Francisco’s charms was in its defiance of precedent. There were + hills to be conquered, and San Francisco’ s expanding traffic hurled + itself at the face of them. It went up and up, with no thought of finding + a way around. So it happened that on some of the streets the steepness was + too great for horses. In the centre there are cable roads, and on either + side of the rails grass grows through the cobbles. The earlier structures + on the level were put together in haste. For the most part they remained + essentially unchanged until they fell with a crash. True, they had become + stained by time, unkempt, dwarfed by new neighbors, but nobody desired to + efface them. Away from the business section houses appeared on the various + hills, perched precariously near the brink; houses reached by long flights + and grown over with roses. The bathing fogs touched them with gray. Moss + grew on their roofs. In the little, lofty yards calla lilies bloomed with + the profusion of weeds. The natural beauty of the site, the quaintness of + the commercial and social development of which it became the centre, + attracted the poet and the artist. It incited them to paint the + attractions and to sing the praises of their chosen home. + </p> + <p> + But the loyal sons of those brave pioneers who founded the metropolis were + not in the least daunted by the problem of raising from its ruins the + whole vast number of dwellings and business houses. The leaders of the + people, the men who had been identified with San Francisco since its early + days, and whose great fortunes were almost swept away by the cataclysm, + lent courage to all the wearied thousands by firm statements of their + optimism. + </p> + <p> + James D. Phelan, former Mayor of the city and one of its richest + capitalists, immediately announced his intention of rebuilding his + properties at Market and O’Farrell Streets, in the heart of the ruined + business district. William H. Crocker, one of the heaviest losers, a + nephew of Charles Crocker, who founded the Central Pacific Railroad with + Collis P. Huntington, Leland Stanford and others, stated emphatically that + he would put his shoulder to the wheel. On receiving the first news of the + disaster, and before he knew what his losses would amount to, he said: + </p> + <p> + “Mark my words, San Francisco will arise from these ashes a greater and + more beautiful city than ever. I don’t take any stock in the belief of + some people that investors and residents will be panicky and afraid to + build up again. This calamity, terrible as it is, will mean nothing less + than a new and grander San Francisco. It is preposterous to suggest the + abandonment of the city. It is the natural metropolis of the Pacific + coast. God made it so. D. O. Mills, the Spreckels family, everybody I + know, have determined to rebuild and to invest more than ever before. + Burnham, the great Chicago architect, has been at work for a year or more + on plans to beautify San Francisco. Terrible as this destruction has been, + it serves to clear the way for the carrying out of these plans. Why, even + now we are figuring on rebuilding. More than that, I am confident that, + except for what fire has absolutely laid waste, it will be found that the + buildings are less injured than was supposed. Plastering, ornamental work, + glass and more or less loose material has been shaken down, but the + framework, I am sure, will be found intact in many big buildings.” + </p> + <p> + D. Ogden Mills, of New York, who owned enormous properties in the stricken + city, was equally confident. + </p> + <p> + “We will go ahead,” said he, “and build the city, and build it so that + earthquakes will not shake it down and so fire will not destroy it, and we + will have a water system which will enable us to draw water from the sea + for fire extinguishing service and other municipal purposes. We will thus + have less to fear from the destruction of the land mains. The whole point + with all of us who own property down there is that we have to build. To + let it lie idle, piled with its ruins, would mean the throwing away of + money, and I am sure none of us intends to do that. The city will go up + like Baltimore did, and Galveston, and Charleston, and Chicago, and there + will be no lack of capital. California spirit and California enterprise, + which are always associated with the State of California, will rise + superior to this calamity.” + </p> + <p> + George Crocker, elder brother of William H. Crocker; Archer M. Huntington, + son of Collis P. Huntington; Mrs. Herman Oelrichs, Mrs. W. K. Vanderbilt, + Jr., members of the wealthy Spreckels family and others all expressed, + before the great conflagration had ceased burning, the confident + expectation that the city would rise, Phoenix-like, from its ashes and + become more beautiful and prosperous than it had ever been in the past. + </p> + <p> + So complete was the calamity that the Government of the United States lent + a hand in the earliest work of restoration. On April 20th, two days after + the earthquake, Congress took immediate steps to repair or replace all the + public buildings damaged or destroyed in San Francisco. The willingness of + Congress to assist those in need of work by immediately beginning the + reconstruction of the Federal buildings was indicated when Senator Scott, + chairman of the Committee on Public Buildings and Grounds, introduced a + resolution calling upon the Secretary of the Treasury for full information + as to the exact condition of the various government buildings in San + Francisco, and instructing him to submit an estimate showing the aggregate + sum needed to repair or rebuild them. The resolution suggested that steel + frames be used in any new buildings. This resolution was adopted. It was + soon learned that the new Post Office, the Mint and the old Customs House + were practically undamaged. The branch of the United States Mint, on Fifth + Street, and the new Post Office at Seventh and Mission Streets, were + striking examples of the superiority of workmanship put into Federal + buildings. The old Mint building, surrounded by a wide space of pavement, + was absolutely unharmed. The Mint made preparations to resume business at + once. The Post Office building also was virtually undamaged by fire. The + earthquake shock did some damage to the different entrances to the + building, but the walls were left standing in good condition. President + Roosevelt also sent a message to Congress asking that $300,000 be at once + appropriated to finish the Mare Island Navy Yard, in order that employment + might be given to the many workmen who were in extreme need of money for + the necessities of life. + </p> + <p> + It was a most fortunate circumstance that the property records in the Hall + of Records were unharmed either by earthquake or fire. Endless disputes + and litigation over the questions of ownerships would undoubtedly have + otherwise impeded the work of those sincerely anxious to repair their + shattered fortunes and opened the way for the unscrupulous to take unfair + advantage of the general chaos. + </p> + <p> + But the temper of the people was such that only the boldest would have + dared to use trickery for his own ends. Every man stood at the side of his + neighbor working for himself and for the good of all. Before the embers + were cool the owners of some of the damaged skyscrapers gave commands to + proceed instantly with their reconstruction. The Spreckels Building, the + Hayward Building, the St. Francis Hotel, the Merchants’ Exchange and + structures that permitted it were ordered rushed into shape as quickly as + possible. And already contracts had been drawn up for other steel-frame + buildings to be erected with all speed. Many substantial business men and + property owners of San Francisco were in consultation with the architects + within a few days. While the work of clearing away the debris went + forward, a corps of draughtsmen was busily occupied preparing plans for + the new buildings to adorn the city. + </p> + <p> + Mayor Schmitz telegraphed to the Mayors of all leading cities, inquiring + how many architects or architectural draughtsmen could be induced to leave + for San Francisco at once, and hundreds of young men immediately responded + to the call. Experts of the several great contracting companies hurried to + the scene and were ready to deposit material and labor on the ground for + the work of restoration. Daniel H. Burnham, a leading architect of + Chicago, who had previously drawn plans for beautifying the city, was + summoned to superintend the work. + </p> + <p> + All the horses, mules and wagons obtainable were immediately pressed into + service to remove the debris and clear the streets so that traffic could + be resumed. Within a week after the first earthquake shock trolley cars + were running in the principal streets, telephone communication had been + re-established in the most needed quarters, electric lights were available + and business had begun again on a limited scale. + </p> + <p> + Yet, in spite of the indomitable courage of the citizens and the efficient + labor of the public officers and the utility companies, an enormous amount + of work remained. Virtually every bank in San Francisco had to be rebuilt. + Only the Market Street National Bank was left nearly undamaged. An + official list of the condition of the school buildings throughout the city + showed that twenty-nine school buildings were destroyed and that + forty-four were partially, at least, spared. Many of the latter were so + damaged that they had to be either pulled down or thoroughly repaired, and + arrangements were made to resume the short term in tents erected in the + parks, where thousands of the homeless had already found temporary + shelter. With these two vital classes of public institutions prepared to + care for the demands about to be made on them, confidence was not lacking + in other parts. Most of the foundries and factories near the water front + and south of Market Street immediately called in all their employees and + began to clear away the wreckage and make ready for continuing business. + Great credit is due to the newspapers, nearly all of which continued their + daily issues without interruption, although their buildings, with offices + and printing plants, were entirely destroyed by the flames which followed + the earthquake. Those whose premises were early threatened with + destruction betook themselves to Oakland, seven miles distant across the + bay, and published their sheets from the establishments of the Oakland + papers. A thorough inspection shows that comparatively little damage was + done in the vicinity of the Cliff. The Cliff House, which was at first + reported to have been hurled into the sea, not only stood, but the damage + sustained by it from the earthquake was slight. The famous Sutro baths, + located near the Cliff House, with the hundreds of thousands of square + feet of glass roofing, also were practically unharmed. Only a few of the + windows in the Sutro baths and the Cliff House were broken, and the lofty + chimney of the pumping plant of the former establishment was cracked only + a trifle. When the situation was finally summed up, however, nearly + three-fourths of the city had to be rebuilt or remodeled, and the cost of + doing this was enough to appal the strongest hearts. + </p> + <p> + Financially the prospect was encouraging. Not a bank lost the contents of + its fireproof vaults and remained practically unharmed, so far as credit + was concerned. + </p> + <p> + For a number of days it was impossible to open any strong boxes on account + of the great heat which the thick walls retained, and this naturally + caused some embarrassment and lack of ready money. Nearly all of them, + however, had strong connections in Eastern cities and large balances to + their credit in other banks of America and Europe. They were also favored + by the fact that the United States Mint and the Sub-Treasury held between + them some $245,000,000 in ready money. The Secretary of the Treasury + immediately deposited $10,000,000 to the credit of the local banks, and + financiers of the great business centres of the country added to public + confidence by prompt statements that they would facilitate the + reconstruction of the city by a liberal advancement of funds. + </p> + <p> + One prominent Eastern capitalist expressed the general conviction in the + following words: + </p> + <p> + “No great city, unless it dried up entirely from lack of commercial life + blood, was ever annihilated by such a disaster as that of San Francisco. + Pompeii and Herculaneum were not great cities in the first place, and in + the second, they were completely covered, smothered as it were, with the + ashes and molten lava of the adjoining volcano, and nearly all of their + inhabitants perished. If it be admitted that three-fourths of the + superstructures, so to speak, of San Francisco, estimated according to + valuation, is destroyed, we have yet the fact remaining that the lives of + only about one four-hundredth of its population have been lost. + </p> + <p> + “San Francisco was not merely land and the buildings erected upon it, but + it was people, and one of the most active, most hopeful, most vivacious + human communities on the face of the earth. You cannot long discourage + such a community, unless you wipe out three-fourths of its members. Will + San Francisco rise again? Most certainly it will. Galveston and Baltimore, + not to mention Charleston, Boston and Chicago, showed the spirit of + material resurrection in American communities, sore-smitten by calamity. + After Galveston had been made a desert of sand and debris, there were + predictions that it would never rise again. What was the outcome? A finer + Galveston than before, and finer than many years of slow improvement in + the natural course would have made it. Baltimore is busier commercially + than it was before the great fire. + </p> + <p> + “San Francisco is exceedingly fortunate in the fact that its moneyed + institutions remain strong, with abundant supplies of funds. It is true + that many of them undoubtedly hold large numbers of real estate mortgages + as securities for loans, and that much of the property thus represented is + now in ashes. But with care and an accommodating spirit practically all of + those mortgaged can be so nursed that they will be made absolutely good. + The banks will be found to be only too eager to afford new loans which + will enable realty owners to rebuild. You will see San Francisco rise a + more splendid city than ever, and better prepared to resist future + earthquake shocks. Because it has had this dreadful visitation is no + reason for apprehension that another like it will come within the life of + the present generation, or two or three after. The destruction of Lisbon + in the middle of the eighteenth century and its subsequent immunity from + seismic damage is a reassuring example.” + </p> + <p> + The municipality was in excellent financial condition to meet and rise + above the extraordinary needs of the situation. It had a bonded debt of + only $4,245,100, while its realty valuation was $402,127,261 and its + personalty $122,258,406. The question of issuing further amounts of bonds + was therefore one of the first measures considered by Mayor Schmitz and + his co-workers, and an appeal was made to the Federal Government to + guarantee the proposed loans, so that the most urgent work which lay in + the city’s province could be undertaken at once and without an excessive + burden of interest. + </p> + <p> + The vast insurance loss was divided among 107 companies, and, though only + a little more than half the damage was covered by policies, the total + swelled toward the colossal sum of $150,000,000. Several of the largest + companies were seriously crippled by the disaster and some were forced + into liquidation. To the great relief of the entire country, nevertheless, + the financial situation was not severely affected, and there was every + reason to believe that the great bulk of the insurance would be paid. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV. + </h2> + <h3> + The Earthquake Wave Felt Round the Earth. + </h3> + <p> + The outbreak of earth forces at San Francisco did not stand alone. There + were others elsewhere at nearly the same time, the whole seeming to + indicate a general disturbance in the interior of the earth’s crust. Some + scientists, indeed, declared that no possible connection could exist + between the eruption of Mount Vesuvius and the earthquake at San + Francisco, but others were inclined to view certain facts in regard to + recent seismic and volcanic activity as, to say the least, suggestive. + </p> + <p> + As to the actual cause of the California earthquake, the wisest confession + we can make is that of ignorance, there being almost as little known as to + the origin, period and coming of earthquakes as when Pliny wrote 1,800 + years ago. The Roman observer knew that the tremor passed like a wave + through the surface of the earth; he knew that it had a given direction, + and he knew that certain regions were rife with seismic disturbance. More + he could not say, and when this is said all has been said that is known + to-day. + </p> + <p> + Setting aside these general considerations, let us return to the question + of the disaster at San Francisco on that fatal morning of April 18th. The + shock did not come unexpectedly. A month previous there had been a severe + earthquake in the Island of Formosa, and many lives were lost there, while + an enormous amount of damage was done. Only a few days before the event in + San Francisco there was another earthquake in the same island. Still + greater havoc was caused by it than by the earthquake in March, but fewer + lives were lost, the reason being that the people were warned in time. + Early in April the eruption of Mount Vesuvius reached its height and + devastated the country around the volcano, covering an enormous territory + with ashes, and caused the loss of hundreds of lives. + </p> + <p> + On Tuesday night, April 17th, word was received from Piatigorsk, + Circassia, that there had been two severe earthquake shocks the previous + day in Northern Caucasia. The same night a telegram from Madrid said that + the newspapers there reported that the long-dormant volcano on Palma, the + largest of the Canary Islands, was showing signs of eruption, columns of + smoke issuing from the crater. + </p> + <p> + WIDESPREAD EARTH TREMORS. + </p> + <p> + While scientists as a rule doubt that there was any connection between + these volcanic phenomena and the earthquake at San Francisco, yet reports + from the Mount Weather observation station in Virginia, a few miles from + Washington, show that the eruptions of Vesuvius acted on the magnetic + instruments by electro-magnetic waves in such a way as to disturb the + electrical potentials at that place. Be this as it may, there is one + remarkable circumstance in regard to all this activity. All the places + mentioned—Formosa, Southern Italy, Caucasia, and the Canary Islands—lie + within a belt bounded by lines a little north of the fortieth parallel and + a little south of the thirtieth parallel. San Francisco is just south of + the fortieth parallel, while Naples is just north of it. The latitude of + Calabria, where the terrible earthquakes occurred in 1905, is the same as + that of the territory affected by the recent earthquake in the United + States. This may or may not have some bearing on the question. + </p> + <p> + Whatever be thought of all this, one thing is certain, the earthquake + which laid San Francisco in ruins was felt the world over, wherever there + were instruments in position to detect and record it. The seismograph in + the government observatory at Washington showed that the first wave, on + April 18th, came at 8.19—equivalent to 5.19 at San Francisco; that + at 8.25 there was a stronger wave motion, and that from 8.32 to 8.35 the + recording pen was carried off the paper. The vibrations did not entirely + cease until 12.35 P. M., during this period there having been nearly half + an inch of to and fro motion in the surface of the earth. + </p> + <p> + RECORDS OF FOREIGN OBSERVATIONS. + </p> + <p> + From far away New Zealand, on the same date, the government seismograph at + the capital, Wellington, recorded seismic waves that apparently passed + round the earth five times at intervals of about four hours each. + </p> + <p> + Across the Atlantic, at Heidelberg, in Germany, the records showed + vibrations lasting one hour. At Sarayevo, in Bosnia, there was a sharp + shock at 11 A. M., undulating from west to east. At Funfkirchen, in + Hungary, at Laibach, in Austria, in the Isle of Wight, off the coast of + England, and all through Italy, from north to south, the shocks were felt. + </p> + <p> + At Hancock, Mich., a shock was felt on April 19th a mile below the surface + in the Quincy mine of such severity that one man was killed and four + injured by a fall of rock loosened by the trembling of the earth. There is + no evidence, however, that this had any connection with the California + disaster, the dates not coinciding. + </p> + <p> + Turning to the Far East, across the Pacific, seismographs in the Imperial + University of Tokio showed that the earthquake was felt there eleven + minutes later than in San Francisco, and similar instruments in Manila + detected the arrival of the seismic waves twenty minutes after the San + Francisco shock. In this there was a slight difference in time compared + with Tokio, but, considering the distance, near enough to prove that the + disturbances came from the same source. + </p> + <p> + Not until the day following was any noticeable disturbance felt in + Honolulu, but on April 19th shocks were plainly felt for six minutes and + the water in the harbor rose rapidly. Panic seemed imminent just before + the shocks subsided. While earthquakes are by no means infrequent in these + islands, this was more severe than any recorded in recent years, causing + buildings to sway to and fro and partly demolishing some of frail + construction. + </p> + <p> + If, as the majority of men qualified to discuss earthquakes seem to think, + the San Francisco earthquake had no connection with volcanic action, but + was caused by what is technically known as a “fault” in the formation of + the crust of the earth, it seems easy enough to account for these wave + motions travelling round the earth. How widely this may really have made + itself felt it is not possible to say. Several of the great earthquakes in + Japan have been recorded in the seismographs of the observatories on every + continent and in Australia, showing that in severe disturbances of this + kind the whole surface strata quiver, alike under the oceans and over the + continents and islands. At the time of a shock, of course, half of the + world is in darkness and asleep. This is taken to account for the fact + that so far only a few observatories have reported catching the San + Francisco vibrations. + </p> + <p> + The instruments invented for the recording of the motions of the earth’s + crust are looked upon by scientists as the most delicate of all machines. + So highly sensitive are they, indeed, that the very slightest vibratory + motion is recorded perfectly. Even the tread of feet cannot escape this + instrument if sufficient to cause a vibration. + </p> + <p> + There are three classes of instruments for the automatic recording of + earth tremors, each with its own particular function. First is the + seismoscope, which will merely detect and record the fact that there has + been such a tremor. Some of these are so equipped as to indicate the time + of the disturbance. + </p> + <p> + Second, is the seismometer, the function of which is to measure the + maximum force of the shock, either with or without an indication of its + direction. The third instrument is the seismograph, which is so arranged + that it will accurately record the number, succession, direction, + amplitude and period of successive oscillations. This last instrument is + by far the most delicate of the three. + </p> + <p> + In the construction of this earthquake recording machine the maker must so + suspend a heavy body that when its normal position is disturbed in the + most infinitesimal degree no reactionary force will be developed tending + to restore it to its original position. The inventor has never been found + who could accomplish this suspension of a body to perfection. The + seismograph of to-day, however, has reached a stage of perfection where + close approximations are obtained in the records made. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV. + </h2> + <h3> + Vesuvius Devastates the Region of Naples. + </h3> + <p> + We have in other chapters described the terrible work of Mount Vesuvius in + the past, from the far-off era of the destruction of Pompeii down to the + end of the last century. There comes before us now another frightful + eruption, one of the greatest in its history, that of 1906. For thirty + years before this outbreak the mighty volcano had been comparatively + quiet, rarely ceasing, indeed, to smoke and fume, but giving little + indication of the vast forces buried in its heart. It showed some sympathy + with Mont Pelee in 1902, and continued restless after that time, but it + was not until about the middle of February, 1906, that it became + threatening, lava beginning to overflow from the crater and make its lurid + way down the mountain’s side. + </p> + <p> + It was in the middle of the first week of April that these indications + rose to the danger point, the flow of lava suddenly swelling from a + rivulet to a river, pouring in a gleaming flood over the crater’s rim, and + meeting the other streams that came streaming down the volcano’s rugged + flank. While this went on the mountain remained comparatively quiet, there + being no explosions, though a huge cloud of volcanic ash and cinders rose + high in the air until it hung over the crater in the shape of an enormous + pine tree, while from it a shower of dust and sand, soon to become + terrible, began to descend upon the surrounding fields and towns. + </p> + <p> + Dangerous as is Vesuvius at any time, the people of the vicinity dare its + perils for the allurement of its fertile soil. A ring of populous villages + encircles it, flourishing vineyards and olive groves extend on all sides, + and the hand of industry does not hesitate to attack its threatening + flanks. The intervals between its death-dealing throes are so long that + the peasants are always ready to dare destruction for the hope of winning + the means of life from its soil. + </p> + <p> + THE RIVERS OF LAVA. + </p> + <p> + All this locality was now a field of terror and death. Down on the + vineyards and villages poured the smothering ashes in an ever increasing + rain; toward them slowly and threateningly crawled the fiery serpents of + the lava streams; and from their homes fled thousands of the + terror-stricken people, frantic with horror and dismay. A number of + populous villages were threatened by the lurid lava streams, the most + endangered being Bosco Trecase, with its 10,000 inhabitants. Toward this + devoted town poured steadily the irresistible flood of molten rock. The + soldiers who had been hurried to the front sought to divert its flow by + digging a wide ditch across its course and throwing up a high bank of + earth, but they worked in vain. The demon of destruction was not to be + robbed of its prey. The liquid stream advanced like a colossal serpent of + fire, turning its head like a crawling snake to the right and left, but + keeping steadily on toward the fated town. The ditch was filled; the bank + gave way; the first house was reached and burst into flames; the creeping + stream of fire pushed on to the next houses in its way; only then did the + despairing people desert their homes and flee for their lives, carrying + with them the little they could snatch of their treasured possessions. + </p> + <p> + F. Marion Crawford, the novelist, who was present at this scene, thus + describes the flight of the terrified people: + </p> + <p> + “I saw men, women and children and infants, whose mothers carried them at + the breast or in their aprons, fleeing in an endless procession. Dogs, + too, and cats were on the carts, and sometimes even chickens, tied + together by the legs, and piles of mattresses and pillows and shapeless + bundles of clothes. All were white with dust. Under the lurid glare I saw + one old woman lying on her back across a cart, ghastly white and, if not + dead already of fear and heat and suffocation, certainly almost gone. We + ourselves could hardly breathe.” + </p> + <p> + It was on Saturday, the 7th, that Bosco Trecase became the prey of the + river of molten rock. During that night and the following day the crisis + of the eruption came. The observatory on the mountain side was occupied by + Professor Matteucci, his assistant, Professor Perret, of New York, and two + domestics, all others having been sent away. Their description of the + scene in which they found themselves is vividly picturesque. At midnight + the situation in the observatory was terrible. The forces of the + earthquake were let loose and the ground rocked so that it was almost + impossible to stand. The roaring of the main crater was deafening, while + the volcano poured forth its contents like a fountain, and the electric + display was terrifying, constant claps of thunder following the lurid + flashes of lightning, which gave the sky a blood-red hue. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after three o’clock in the morning the explosive energy of the + mighty mass culminated. The whole cone burst open with a tremendous + earthquake shock, from the heart of the recently silent mountain came a + deafening roar, and red-hot rocks, like the balls from nature’s mighty + artillery, were hurled a half mile into the air, while a dense mass of + ashes and sand was flung to three or four times this height. All the next + day the terrible detonation kept up, and a hail of bullet-like stones + poured downward from the skies. Rarely has a more terrible Sunday been + seen. It was as if the demons of earth and air were let loose and were + seeking to destroy man and his puny works. + </p> + <p> + THE CRISIS OF THE ERUPTION. + </p> + <p> + This frightful explosion of the 8th of April was the worst of the dreadful + display of volcanic forces, but the work kept up with diminishing + intensity much of the following week. The ashes and cinders continued to + pour down in suffocating showers, covering the ground to a depth of four + or five feet in the vicinity of the volcano and to a considerable depth at + Naples, ten miles away. The sun disappeared behind the thick cloud that + filled the air, and the scene resembled that described by Pliny more than + eighteen hundred years before. + </p> + <p> + Of Bosco Trecase nothing was left but the large stone church and a few + houses. Another river of lava reached the outskirts of Torre del Greco, + and a third stopped at the cemetery of Torre Annunziata. Those towns + escaped, but thousands of acres of fertile cultivated land, with farm + houses and stock, were destroyed. The peninsular railway up the mountain + was ruined and the large hotel burned. One writer tells the following tale + of what he saw on that fatal Saturday and Sunday: + </p> + <p> + “On the road I met hundreds of families in flight, carrying their few + miserable possessions. The spectacle of collapsing carts and fainting + women was frequently seen. When one reached the lava stream a stupefying + spectacle presented itself. From a point on the mountain between the towns + I saw four rivers of molten fire, one of which, 200 feet wide and over 40 + deep, was moving slowly and majestically onward, devouring vineyards and + olive groves. I witnessed the destruction of a farm house enveloped on + three sides by lava. Immediately overhead the great crater was belching + incandescent rock and scoria for an incredible distance. The whole scene + was wreathed with flames, and a perpetual roar was heard. Ever and anon + the cone of the volcano was encircled with vivid electric phenomena, amid + which a downpour of liquid fire on all sides of the crater was revealed in + magnificent awfulness. In the evening there was a frightful shock of + earthquake, which was repeated at two o’clock on Sunday morning. + Simultaneously the lava streams redoubled their onrush, and men, women and + children fled precipitately toward the sea. The lava had invaded the road + behind them.” + </p> + <p> + A REIGN OF TERROR. + </p> + <p> + The great loss of life was due to the vast fall of ashes, which crushed in + hundreds of roofs and buried the occupants within the ruins of their + homes. In all the neighboring towns buildings were destroyed in great + numbers, an early estimate being that fully 5,000 houses had been partly + crushed or utterly destroyed. On the Ottajano side of the mountain, where + the ashes fell in greatest profusion, all the houses of the villages were + damaged, and Ottajano itself was left a wreck, several hundred dead bodies + being taken from its ruins. In Naples the ash fall was so incessant that + those who could afford it wore automobile coats, caps and goggles, while + the people generally sought to save their eyes and faces by the aid of + paper masks and umbrellas. The drivers of trolley cars were obliged to + wear masks of some transparent material under the vizors of their caps. + </p> + <p> + DISASTERS AT SAN GIUSEPPE AND NAPLES. + </p> + <p> + There were two special disasters attended by serious loss of life. On the + 9th, while a congregation of two hundred or more were attending mass in + the church at San Giuseppe, the roof crushed in from the weight of ashes + upon it and fell upon the worshippers below, few or none of whom escaped + unhurt. Fifty-four dead bodies were taken from the ruins and a large + number were severely injured. The Mayor of the town was dismissed from his + office for leaving his post of duty in the face of danger. + </p> + <p> + The second disaster, one of the same character, took place at Naples. This + was on Tuesday, April 10th. Just previous to it the people had been + marching in religious processions through the streets, to render thanks + for the apparent cessation of the activity of Vesuvius. Motley but + picturesque processions were these, headed by boys carrying candles, which + burned simply in the full sunshine and bearing aloft images of the Madonna + or saints, clad in gorgeous robes of cheap blue or yellow satin. Their joy + was suddenly changed to grief by tidings of a frightful disaster. The roof + of the Monte Oliveto market, fronting on the Toledo, the main + thoroughfare, had suddenly crushed in, burying more than 200 people + beneath its heavy fall. + </p> + <p> + The market had been crowded with buyers and their children, and it was the + busiest hours of the day in the great roofed courtyard, covering a space + 600 feet square, when, with scarcely a tremor of warning, there came a + frightful crash and a dense cloud of dust covered the scene, from out of + which came heartrending screams of agony. The volcanic ash which, + unnoticed, had gathered thickly on the roof, had broken it in by its + weight. + </p> + <p> + The news set the people frantic with grief and indignation. They insisted + that the authorities knew that the roof was unsafe and had neglected their + duty. Cursing and screaming in their intense excitement, they surrounded + the market, endeavoring with frantic haste to remove the heavy beams from + beneath which came the appealing calls for help, many of the rescuers + sobbing aloud as they worked. It required a large force of police and + soldiers to keep them back and permit the firemen and other trained + workers to carry on more systematically the work of relief. Twelve persons + proved to have been killed, two fatally injured, twenty-four seriously + hurt and over a hundred badly bruised and cut. Among these were many + children, whose parents had sent them to do the marketing without a dream + of danger, and the grief of the parents was intense. The Duke of Aosta, + Prefect of Naples, directed the work of rescue, while his wife assisted in + the care of the injured. As the Duchess bent in the hospital to give a + cooling drink to a badly bruised little girl she felt a kiss upon her + hand. Looking down, she saw a woman kneeling at her feet, who gratefully + said: “Your Excellency, she is all I have. I am a widow. May God reward + you.” + </p> + <p> + While this scene of horror was taking place in Naples the fate of the town + and villages grouped around the foot of the volcano seemed as hopeless as + ever. Early on the 10th the showers of ashes and streams of lava + diminished and almost ceased, but later the same day they began again, and + the terrified inhabitants feared that a catastrophe like that which buried + Pompeii and Herculaneum was about to visit them. The lava which reached + the cemetery of Torre Annunziata turned in the direction of Pompeii as if + to freshly entomb that exhumed city of the past. A violent storm of + sulphurous rain fell at San Giuseppe, Vesuviana and Sariano, and on all + sides the fall of sand and ashes came on again in full strength. Even with + the sun shining high in the heavens the light was a dim yellow, in the + midst of which the few persons who still haunted the stricken towns moved + about in the awful stillness of desolation like gray ghosts, their + clothing, hair and beards covered with ashes. + </p> + <p> + THE ERUPTION RESUMED. + </p> + <p> + A typical case was that of Torre del Greco. Though for thirty hours the + place had been deserted, a few ghostly figures could be seen at intervals + when the vivid flashes of lightning illuminated the gloom-covered scene, + wandering desolately about, hungry and thirsty, their throats parched by + smoke and dust, yet unable to tear themselves away from the ruins of their + late comfortable homes. + </p> + <p> + So deep was the ash fall that railway or tramway travel to the inner + circle of towns was impossible, and the great depth of fallen dust choked + the roads so as to render travel by carriage or on foot very difficult. A + party of officials made a tour of inspection by automobile, visiting a + number of the town, but were prevented by the state of the roads from + reaching others. Ottajano was thus cut off from travel, and a heavy fall + of ashes followed the officials in their retreat. At Bosco Trecase the + lava had gathered into a lake, already growing solid on top, but a mass of + liquid rock beneath. + </p> + <p> + The lava carried vast masses of burnt stone and sulphur on its surface, + like dross on melted lead, and nothing was visible toward Bosco Trecase + but endless acres of dark scoriae, broken here and there by the greenish, + curling smoke of sulphur. At one point a great cone pine tree, torn up by + its roots and turned to black charcoal, stuck out of the mass at a sharp + angle. The air was almost unbearable, the heat intense, and few could long + bear the dangers and discomfort of the situation. + </p> + <p> + SCENES OF HORROR. + </p> + <p> + The greatest depth of ashes encountered was in the vicinity of Ottajano. + Here large areas were buried to a depth of several feet. Soldiers had been + sent there with military carts, carrying provisions and surgical + appliances, with orders to lend their aid in the work of relief. They + found it almost impossible to make their way through the deep fine dust, + and the tales of horror and heroism they had to tell resembled those that + must of old have been borne to Rome by the fleeing inhabitants of Pompeii. + </p> + <p> + Efforts were made to remove the children and old persons in the carts, but + when these had gone a few hundred feet it was found that, although there + were four horses harnessed to each vehicle, they could not pull their + loads through the ashes. This caused a panic among the children, who + expected to be buried in the incessant fall from the volcano, and they + fled in all directions in the darkness and blinding rain. Searching + parties went after them, but in spite of continuous shouting and calling + no trace was found of the little ones, and numbers of the children were + undoubtedly smothered by the ashes and sand. + </p> + <p> + Many of the inhabitants had been buried in the ruins of their houses, and + the scenes when the victims were unearthed were often piteous and + terrible. The positions of the bodies showed that the victims had died + while in a state of great terror, the faces being convulsed with fear. + Three bodies were found in a confessional of one of the fallen churches. + One body was that of an old woman who was sitting with her right arm + raised as though to ward off the advancing danger. The second was that of + a child about eight years old. It was found dead in a position, which + would indicate that the child had fallen with a little dog close to it and + had died with one arm raised across its face, to protect itself and pet + from the crumbling ruins. The third body, that of a woman, was reduced to + an unrecognizable mass. These three victims were reverently laid side by + side while a procession of friends and relatives offered up prayers beside + them. + </p> + <p> + One soldier rode his horse through the ashes reaching up to its flanks, + calling out, “Who wants help?” He was rewarded by hearing a woman’s voice + reply in weak tones and, springing from his horse, he floundered through + the ashes to the ruined walls of a house from which the voice seemed to + come. As he made his way through the soft, treacherous layer of scoriae + which surrounded the destroyed habitation, and with difficulty worked his + way toward the building the soldier shouted words of encouragement and, + climbing over a heap of ruins and braving a toppling wall, entered the + building. In the cellar he found the bodies of three children. Near them + was a woman, barely alive, who by almost superhuman efforts for hours had + succeeded in freeing herself from a mass of debris which had fallen upon + her. The soldier picked the woman up in his arms and carried her to a + place of safety. It was found that both legs were broken and that she had + been badly crushed about the body. + </p> + <p> + Some extraordinary escapes from death took place. A man and his four + children were rescued after having been lost in the ash-covered wilderness + for fifty-six hours. They were terribly exhausted, and were reduced almost + to skeletons. + </p> + <p> + Robert Underwood Johnson, one of the editors of the “Century Magazine”, + who happened to be in Rome at the time of the eruption, made one of a + party who ventured as near the scene of destruction as they could safely + approach. From his graphic story of his experiences we copy some of the + most interesting details. + </p> + <p> + AN AMERICAN OBSERVER. + </p> + <p> + “We caught a train for Torre Annunziata, three miles this side of Pompeii + and two miles from the southern end of the wedge of lava which destroyed + Bosco Trecase. We had a magnificent view of the eruption, eight miles + away. Rising at an angle of fifty degrees, the vast mass of tumult + roundness was beautifully accentuated by the full moon, shifting + momentarily into new forms and drifting south in low, black clouds of + ashes and cinders reaching to Capri. At Torre del Greco we ran under this + terrifying pall, apparently a hundred feet above, the solidity of which + was soon revealed in the moonlight. The torches of the railway guards + added to the effect, but greatly relieved the sulphurous darkness. + </p> + <p> + “We reached Torre Annunziata at three in the morning. There was little + suggestion of a disaster as we trudged through the sleeping town to the + lava, two miles away. The brilliant moon gave us a superb view of the + volcano, a gray-brown mass rising, expanding and curling in with a profile + like a monstrous cyclopean face. But nothing in mythology gives a + suggestion of the fascination of this awful force, presenting the sublime + beauty above, but in its descent filled with the mysterious malignance of + God’s underworld. + </p> + <p> + “We reached the lava at a picturesque cypress-planted cemetery on the + northern boundary of Torre Annunziata. It was as if the dead had + effectually cried out to arrest the crushing river of flames which + pitilessly engulfed the statue of St. Anne with which the people of Bosco + Reale tried to stay it, as at Catania the veil of St. Agathe is said to + have stayed a similar stream from Mount Etna. + </p> + <p> + “We climbed on the lava. It was cool above but still alive with fire + below. We could see dimly the extent of the destruction beyond the barrier + of brown which had enclosed the streets, torn down the houses, invaded the + vineyards and broken Cook’s railways. A better idea of the surroundings + was obtained at dawn from the railway. We saw north what was left of Bosco + Trecase—a great, square stone church and a few houses inland in a + sea of dull, brown lava. North and east rose a thousand patches of blue + smoke like swamp miasma. All was dull and desolate slag, with nowhere the + familiar serpentine forms of the old lava streams. In terrible contrast + with the volcanic evidences were strong cypresses and blooming camelias in + a neighboring cemetery. + </p> + <p> + “We ate a hasty luncheon before sunrise, when the great beauty of the + scene was revealed. The column now seemed higher and more massive, rising + to three times the height of Vesuvius. Each portion had a concentric + motion and new aspects. The south edges floating toward the sea showed + exquisite curved surfaces, due to the upper moving current. It was like + the decoration of the side of a great sarcophagus. As a yellow dust hangs + over Naples and hides the volcano, I count myself fortunate to have seen + all day from leeward this spectacle of changing, undiminishing beauty. + </p> + <p> + “The wedge of cultivated land ruined east of the volcano extended at least + ten miles, with a width of twenty or thirty miles. Fancy a rich and + thickly populated country of vineyards lying under three to six inches of + ashes and cinders of the color of chocolate with milk, while above, to the + west, the volcano in full activity is distributing to the outer edges of + the circle the same fate, and you will get an idea of the desolate + impression of the scene, a tragedy colossal and heartrending. Like that of + Calabria, it enlists the sympathy of the civilized world. It takes time + for such a calamity to be realized. + </p> + <p> + “Two miles below San Giuseppe we struck cinders which the soldiers were + shoveling, making a narrow road for the refugees. Our wagon driver begged + off from completing his contract to take us to San Giuseppe. We had not + the heart to insist, so the rest of the journey to the railway at Palma, + eight miles, was made laboriously on foot for three hours through sliding + cinders. + </p> + <p> + “In many places temporary shelters had been built by the roadside, like + children’s playhouses. Here women were huddled with their bedding, + awaiting the coming of supplies which the army had begun to distribute. + The men were largely occupied with shoveling cinders from the stronger + roofs and floors into heaps three to six feet deep along the roadside. + Many two-wheeled carts loaded with salvage, drawn by donkeys or pushed by + peasants, were making their way along, the women with bundles on their + heads or carrying poultry. + </p> + <p> + “In the square of San Giuseppe was an encampment of soldiers, with low + tents. Near a destroyed church, in coarse yellow linen shrouds, were the + bodies of thirty-three of the persons who there lost their lives. The + peasants were sad, but uncomplaining; in fact, for so excitable a people + they were wonderfully calm. As evidence of the thrift and self-respect of + these, we were not once asked for alms during the afternoon.” + </p> + <p> + THE KING AT THE FRONT. + </p> + <p> + The Italian Government did all it could at the moment to alleviate the + horrors of the situation, sending money to be expended in relief work and + dispatching high officials of the government to give aid and encouragement + by their presence. The King, Victor Emmanuel, and Queen Helene reached the + scene of destruction as early as possible and lent their personal + assistance to the work of rescue. + </p> + <p> + Obliged to leave his automobile, which could not move over the + cinder-choked road, the King went forward with difficulty on horseback, + the animal floundering through four feet of ashes, stumbling into holes, + and half blinded by the fall of dust and cinders. + </p> + <p> + “How did you escape?” he asked a priest whom he met in his journey. + </p> + <p> + “I put myself in safety,” was the reply. + </p> + <p> + “What do you mean?” asked the King. + </p> + <p> + “Realizing the danger, I left Nola.” + </p> + <p> + “What!” cried the King, with a flush of anger. “You, a minister of God, + were not here to share the danger of your people and administer the last + sacraments? You did very wrong and forgot your duty.” + </p> + <p> + Reaching Ottejano, the King did what he could to expedite the work of + rescue at that central point of disaster, more than a hundred dead bodies + being taken from the ruins in his presence. He stood with set pale face + watching the removal of the victims and directing the movement of the + workers. During his visit at the front he inspected the temporary camp + hospitals, in which the soldiers were caring for the injured and + suffering, speaking to the poor victims, giving them what comfort he + could, and asking what he could do to relieve their distress. Every + request or desire was received with sympathy and orders given to have it + fulfilled. + </p> + <p> + A pitiful scene took place when the King bent over a poor man, whose right + leg had been amputated, and asked what he could do to comfort and aid him + in his affliction. + </p> + <p> + “Send me my son, who is serving as a soldier,” said the maimed peasant. + </p> + <p> + The King, visibly affected, clasped the old man’s hand and exclaimed: + </p> + <p> + “My poor fellow! I can do much, but to grant your request would mean + breaking the laws, which I must be the first to respect. I would give + anything I have were it possible by so doing to send your son to you, but + I cannot do so.” + </p> + <p> + While the King was thus engaged at the scenes of desolation, Queen Helene + visited the charitable institutions at Naples and inspected the places + where the refugees were housed, doing what she could to improve conditions + and add to the comfort of the sufferers. The Princess of + Schleswig-Holstein, who was in Naples, made an automobile visit to the + afflicted towns, but the motor broke down, and she was forced to return on + foot, walking a distance of twelve miles through the ashes and displaying + a power of endurance that surprised the natives. + </p> + <p> + THE CANOPY OF DUST. + </p> + <p> + By Friday, April 13th, the eruption was practically at an end. Vesuvius + had spent itself in the enormous convulsion of the 7th and 8th and the + subsequent minor explosions and had returned to its normal state, ceasing + to give any signs of life, except the cloud of smoke which still rose from + its crater and spread like a thick curtain over and around the mountain. + Looked at from Naples, there was none of the familiar aspects of the + volcano, with its output of smoke and ashes by day and fiery gleam by + night. Now it lay buried in darkness and obscurity, clothed in a dense + pall of smoke. At Rome there was sunshine, but twenty miles south hung a + misty veil, and twenty-five miles above Naples a zone of semi-obscurity + began, blotting out the sun, whose light trickled through with a sickly + glare. Everything was whitened with powdery dust; pretty white villas were + daubed and dripping with mud, and people were busy shoveling the ashes + from their roofs. + </p> + <p> + The crowds at the stations resembled millers, their clothes flour covered; + the Campania presented the appearance of a Dakota prairie after a blizzard + of snow, though everything was gray instead of white. The ashes lay in + drifts knee deep. As the volcano was approached semi-night replaced the + day, the gloom being so deep that telegraph poles twenty feet away could + not be seen. Breathing was difficult, and the smoke made the eyes water. + At Naples, however, a favorable wind had cleared the air of smoke, the sun + shone brightly, and the versatile people were happy once more. The goggles + and eye-screens had disappeared, but the streets were anything but + comfortable, for some six thousand men were at work clearing the ashes + from the roofs and main streets and piling them in the middle of the + narrow streets, making the passage of vehicles very difficult and the + sidewalks far from comfortable for foot passengers. + </p> + <p> + But while brightness and joy reigned at Naples, there were gruesome scenes + within the volcanic zone. At Bosco Trecase soldiers carried on the work of + exhumation, being able to work only an hour at a time on account of the + advanced stage of decomposition of the bodies. Many of these were + shapeless, unrecognizable masses of flesh and bones, while others were + little disfigured. To lessen the danger of an epidemic the bodies were + buried as quickly as possible in quicklime. + </p> + <p> + On Sunday, the 15th, the searchers at Ottejano were surprised at finding + two aged women still alive, after six days’ entombment in the ruins. They + were among those who had been buried by the falling walls a week before. + The rafters of the house had protected them, and a few morsels of food in + their pockets aided to keep them alive. At some points there the ashes + were ten feet deep. At San Giuseppe bodies of women were found in whose + hands were coins and jewels, and one woman held a jewelled rosary. This + recalls the results of exploration at Herculaneum and Pompeii, where were + similar instances of death overtaking the victims of the volcano while + fleeing with their jewels in their hands. + </p> + <p> + It is interesting to learn that two men stood heroically to their post of + duty during the whole scene of the explosion, Professor Matteucci, + Director of the Royal Observatory, and his American assistant, Professor + Frank A. Perret, of New York. Though the building occupied by them was + exposed to the full force of the rain of stones from the burning mountain, + they remained undauntedly at their post through that week of terror. On + the 14th some of that venturesome fraternity, the newspaper + correspondents, reached their eyrie on the highest habitable point on + Vesuvius and heard the story of their experiences. + </p> + <p> + THE HEROES OF THE OBSERVATORY. + </p> + <p> + For several days Professors Matteucci and Perret and their two servants + had been cut off from the outside world and bombarded by the volcano, + their rations consisting of bread, cheese and dried onions, until on + Friday a hardy guide was induced to push through to them with some + provisions. During the eruption the Professor had kept at his instruments, + taking observations day and night and making calculations in the midst of + the inferno. Roughly dressed, he looked like a Western cowboy after a hard + ride in a dust storm. The portico where he stood was knee deep in ashes, + and from the observatory terrace narrow paths had been cut through the + ashes, but as far as the eye could reach an ocean of ashes and twisted + rivers were alone visible, with Vesuvius rising grimly in the midst. The + great monster was enveloped in a cloak of white, as if buried under a + snowstorm, its surface being here and there slit with gulches in which + lava ran. At the bottom of one of those gulches lay the wrecked remnants + of the peninsular railway, a portion of its twisted cable protruding + through the ashes. As the correspondents ascended the mountain they were + surprised by the apparition of natives, men wrinkled with age, who emerged + from dugouts just below the observatory and offered them milk and eggs, + just as if they were ordinary visitors to the volcano. As they descended + they heard the sound of a mandolin from one of these dugouts. Evidently + Vesuvius had no terrors for these case-hardened veterans. + </p> + <p> + We have already told the story gleaned by the correspondents from the + daring scientists. Matteucci completed his record of boldness on Friday, + the 13th, by climbing to a point far above the observatory, at the + imminent risk of his life, to observe the conditions then existing. From + what he says he believed the end of the disturbance near, though he did + not venture to predict. As for the ashes, which a light wind was then + blowing in a direction away from Naples, he said: “The ill wind is now + blowing good to other places, for ashes are the best fertilizer it is + possible to use. It is merely a question just now of having too much of a + good thing.” + </p> + <p> + This is a fact so far as the volcanic ash is concerned. An examination of + the ashes a few days ago shows that they will prove an active and valuable + fertilizer. The fertile slopes of Vesuvius have ever been an allurement to + the vine-grower, four crops a year being a temptation no possible danger + could drive him from, and as soon as the mountain grows surely peaceful + after this eruption, we shall find its farmers risking again the chance of + its uncertain temper. But this is not the case with the land covered with + lava and cinders. Time for their disintegration is necessary before they + can be brought under cultivation, and this is a matter of years. After the + great eruption of 1871-72 the land covered with cinders did not bear crops + for seven years, and there is no reason that they will do so sooner on the + present occasion. So for years to come much of the volcanic soil must + remain a barren and desert void. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI. + </h2> + <h3> + The Great Lisbon and Calabrian Earthquakes. + </h3> + <p> + To our account of the great earth convulsions of San Francisco it is in + place to append a description of some similar events of older date. It is + due to the same causes, whatever these causes may be, the imprisoned + forces within the earth acting over great distances during the earthquake, + while they are concentrated within some limited space when the volcano + begins its work. The earthquake is the most terrible to mankind of all the + natural agencies of destruction. While the volcano usually has a greater + permanent effect upon surface conditions, it is, as a rule, much less + destructive to human life, the earthquake often shaking down cities and + burying all their inhabitants in one common grave. Violent earthquakes are + also of far more frequent occurrence than destructive volcanic eruptions, + many hundreds of them having taken place during the historic period. + </p> + <p> + While the earthquake is only indirectly connected with the subject of our + work, it seems desirable to make some mention of it here, at least so far + as relates to those terrible convulsions whose destructiveness has given + them special prominence in the history of great disasters. Ancient notable + examples are those which threw down the famous Colossus of Rhodes and the + Pharos of Alexandria. The city of Antioch was a terrible sufferer from + this affliction, it having been devastated some time before the Christian + era, while in the year 859 more than 15,000 of its houses were destroyed. + Of countries subject to earthquakes, Japan has been an especial sufferer, + in some cases mountains or islands being elevated in association with + shocks; in others, great tracts of land being swallowed up by the sea. The + number of deaths in some of these instances was enormous. + </p> + <p> + Numerous thrilling examples of the destructive work of the earthquake at + various periods are on record. Of these we have given elsewhere a tabular + list of the more important, and shall confine ourselves to a few striking + examples of its destructive action. In the record of great earthquakes, + one of the most famous is that which in 1755 visited the city of Lisbon, + the capital of Portugal, and left that populous, place in ruin and dire + distress. It may be well to recall the details of this dire event to the + memories of our readers. + </p> + <p> + THE GREAT LISBON EARTHQUAKE + </p> + <p> + On the night of the 31st of October, 1755, the citizens of the fair city + of Lisbon lay down to sleep, in merciful ignorance of what was awaiting + them on the morrow. The morning of the 1st of November dawned, and gave no + sign of approaching calamity. The sun rose in its brightness, the warmth + was genial, the breezes gentle, the sky serene. It was All Saints’ Day—a + high festival of the Church of Rome. The sacred edifices were thronged + with eager crowds, and the ceremonies were in full progress, when the + assembled throngs were suddenly startled from their devotions. From the + ground beneath came fearful sounds that drowned the peal of the organ and + the voices of the choirs. These underground thunders having rolled away, + an awful silence ensued. The panic-stricken multitudes were paralyzed with + terror. Immediately after the ground began to heave with a long and gentle + swell, producing giddiness and faintness among the people. The tall piles + swayed to and fro, like willows in the wind. Shrieks of horror rose from + the terrified assembly. Again the earth heaved, and this time with a + longer and higher wave. Down came the ponderous arches, the stately + columns, the massive walls, the lofty spires, tumbling upon the heads of + priests and people. The graven images, the deified wafers, and they who + had knelt in adoration before them—the worshipped and the + worshippers alike—were in a moment buried under one + undistinguishable mass of horrible ruins. Only a few, who were near the + doors, escaped to tell the tale. + </p> + <p> + It fared no better with those who had remained in their dwellings. The + terrible earth-wave overthrew the larger number of the private houses in + the city, burying their inhabitants under the crumbling walls. Those who + were in the streets more generally escaped, though some there, too, were + killed by falling walls. + </p> + <p> + The sudden overthrow of so many buildings raised vast volumes of fine + dust, which filled the atmosphere and obscured the sun, producing a dense + gloom. The air was full of doleful sounds—the groans of agony from + the wounded and the dying, screams of despair from the horrified + survivors, wails of lamentation from the suddenly bereaved, dismal + howlings of dogs, and terrified cries of other animals. + </p> + <p> + In two or three minutes the clouds of dust fell to the ground, and + disclosed the scene of desolation which a few seconds had wrought. The + ruin, though general, was not universal. A considerable number of houses + were left standing—fortunately tenantless—for a third great + earth-wave traversed the city, and most of the buildings which had + withstood the previous shocks, already severely shaken, were entirely + overthrown. + </p> + <p> + WATER ADDS TO THE DESTRUCTION + </p> + <p> + The last disaster filled the surviving citizens with the impulse of + flight. The more fortunate of them ran in the direction of the open + country, and succeeded in saving their lives; but a great multitude rushed + down to the harbor, thinking to escape by sea. Here, however, they were + met by a new and unexpected peril. The tide, after first retreating for a + little, came rolling in with an immense wave, about fifty feet in height, + carrying with it ships, barges and boats, and dashing them in dire + confusion upon the crowded shore. Overwhelmed by this huge wave, great + numbers were, on its retreat, swept into the seething waters and drowned. + A vast throng took refuge on a fine new marble quay, but recently + completed, which had cost much labor and expense. This the sea-wave had + spared, sweeping harmless by. But, alas! it was only for a moment. The + vast structure itself, with the whole of its living burden, sank + instantaneously into an awful chasm which opened underneath. The mole and + all who were on it, the boats and barges moored to its sides, all of them + filled with people, were in a moment ingulfed. Not a single corpse, not a + shred of raiment, not a plank nor a splinter floated to the surface, and a + hundred fathoms of water covered the spot. To the first great sea-wave + several others succeeded, and the bay continued for a long time in a state + of tumultuous agitation. + </p> + <p> + About two hours after the first overthrow of the buildings, a new element + of destruction came into play. The fires in the ruined houses kindled the + timbers, and a mighty conflagration, urged by a violent wind, soon raged + among the ruins, consuming everything combustible, and completing the + wreck of the city. This fire, which lasted four days, was not altogether a + misfortune. It consumed the thousands of corpses which would otherwise + have tainted the air, adding pestilence to the other misfortunes of the + survivors. Yet they were threatened with an enemy not less appalling, for + famine stared them in the face. Almost everything eatable within the + precincts of the city had been consumed. A set of wretches, morever, who + had escaped from the ruins of the prisons, prowled among the rubbish of + the houses in search of plunder, so that whatever remained in the shape of + provisions fell into their hands and was speedily devoured. They also + broke into the houses that remained standing, and rifled them of their + contents. It is said that many of those who had been only injured by the + ruins, and might have escaped by being extricated, were ruthlessly + murdered by those merciless villains. + </p> + <p> + The total loss of life by this terrible catastrophe is estimated at 60,000 + persons, of whom about 40,000 perished at once, and the remainder died + afterwards of the injuries and privations they sustained. Twelve hundred + were buried in the ruins of the general hospital, eight hundred in those + of the civil prison, and several thousands in those of the convents. The + loss of property amounted to many millions sterling. + </p> + <p> + WIDE-SPREAD DESTRUCTION + </p> + <p> + Although the earth-wave traversed the whole city, the shock was felt more + severely in some quarters than in others. All the older part of the town, + called the Moorish quarter, was entirely overthrown; and of the newer + part, about seventy of the principal streets were ruined. Some buildings + that withstood the shocks were destroyed by fire. The cathedral, eighteen + parish churches, almost all the convents, the halls of the inquisition, + the royal residence, and several other fine palaces of the nobility and + mansions of the wealthy, the custom-houses, the warehouses filled with + merchandise, the public granaries filled with corn, and large timber + yards, with their stores of lumber, were either overthrown or burned. + </p> + <p> + The king and court were not in Lisbon at the time of this great disaster, + but were living in the neighborhood at the castle of Belem, which escaped + injury. The royal family, however, were so alarmed by the shocks, that + they passed the following night in carriages out of doors. None of the + officers of state were with them at the time. On the following morning the + king hastened to the ruined city, to see what could be done toward + restoring order, aiding the wounded, and providing food for the hungry. + </p> + <p> + The royal family and the members of the court exerted themselves to the + uttermost, the ladies devoting themselves to the preparation of lint and + bandages, and to nursing the wounded, the sick, and the dying, of whom the + numbers were overwhelming. Among the sufferers were men of quality and + once opulent citizens, who had been reduced in a moment to absolute + penury. The kitchens of the royal palace, which fortunately remained + standing, were used for the purpose of preparing food for the starving + multitudes. It is said that during the first two or three days a pound of + bread was worth an ounce of gold. One of the first measures of the + government was to buy up all the corn that could be obtained in the + neighborhood of Lisbon, and to sell it again at a moderate price, to those + who could afford to buy, distributing it gratis to those who had nothing + to pay. + </p> + <p> + For about a month afterward earthquake shocks continued, some of them + severe. It was several months before any of the citizens could summon + courage to begin rebuilding the city. But by degrees their confidence + returned. The earth had relapsed into repose, and they set about the task + of rebuilding with so much energy, that in ten years Lisbon again became + one of the most beautiful capitals of Europe. + </p> + <p> + CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LISBON EARTHQUAKE + </p> + <p> + The most distinguishing peculiarities of this earthquake were the + swallowing up of the mole, and the vast extent of the earth’s surface over + which the shocks were felt. Several of the highest mountains in Portugal + were violently shaken, and rent at their summits; huge masses falling from + them into the neighboring valleys. These great fractures gave rise to + immense volumes of dust, which at a distance were mistaken for smoke by + those who beheld them. Flames were also said to have been observed: but if + there were any such, they were probably electrical flashes produced by the + sudden rupture of the rocks. + </p> + <p> + The portion of the earth’s surface convulsed by this earthquake is + estimated by Humboldt to have been four times greater than the whole + extent of Europe. The shocks were felt not only over the Spanish + peninsula, but in Morocco and Algeria they were nearly as violent. At a + place about twenty-four miles from the city of Morocco, there is said to + have occurred a catastrophe much resembling what took place at the Lisbon + mole. A great fissure opened in the earth, and an entire village, with all + its inhabitants, upwards of 8,000 in number, were precipitated into the + gulf, which immediately closed over its prey. + </p> + <p> + EARTHQUAKES IN CALABRIA + </p> + <p> + Of the numerous other examples of destructive earthquakes which might be + chosen from Old World annals, it will not be amiss to append a brief + account of those which took place in Calabria, Italy, in 1783. These, + while less wide-spread in their influence, were much longer in duration + than the Lisbon cataclysm, since they continued, at intervals, from the + 5th of February until the end of the year. The shocks were felt all over + Sicily and as far north as Naples, but the area of severe convulsion was + comparatively limited, not exceeding five hundred square miles. + </p> + <p> + The centre of disturbance seems to have been under the town of Oppido in + the farther Calabria, and it extended in every direction from that spot to + a distance of about twenty-two miles, with such violence as to overthrow + every city, town and village lying within that circle. This ruin was + accomplished by the first shock on the 5th of February. The second, of + equal violence, on the 28th of March, was less destructive, only because + little or nothing had been left for it to overthrow. + </p> + <p> + At Oppido the motion was in the nature of a vertical upheaval of the + ground, which was accompanied by the opening of numerous large chasms, + into some of which many houses were ingulfed, the chasms closing over them + again almost immediately. The town itself was situated on the summit of a + hill, flanked by five steep and difficult slopes; it was so completely + overthrown by the first shock that scarcely a fragment of wall was left + standing. The hill itself was not thrown down, but a fort which commanded + the approach to the place was hurled into the gorge below. It was on the + flats immediately surrounding the site of the town and on the rising + grounds beyond them that the great fissures and chasms were opened. On the + slope of one of the hills opposite the town there appeared a vast chasm, + in which a large quantity of soil covered with vines and olive-trees was + engulfed. This chasm remained open after the shock, and was somewhat in + the form of an amphitheatre, 500 feet long and 200 feet in depth. + </p> + <p> + MOST CALAMITOUS OF THE LANDSLIPS + </p> + <p> + The most calamitous of the landslips occurred on the sea-coast of the + Straits of Messina, near the celebrated rock of Scilla, where huge masses + fell from the tall cliffs, overwhelming many villas and gardens. At Gian + Greco a continuous line of precipitous rocks, nearly a mile in length, + tumbled down. The aged Prince of Scilla, after the first great shock on + the 5th of February, persuaded many of his vassals to quit the dangerous + shore, and take refuge in the fishing boats—he himself showing the + example. That same night, however, while many of the people were asleep in + the boats, and others on a flat plain a little above the sea-level, + another powerful shock threw down from the neighboring Mount Jaci a great + mass, which fell with a dreadful crash, partly into the sea, and partly + upon the plain beneath. Immediately the sea rose to a height of twenty + feet above the level ground on which the people were stationed, and + rolling over it, swept away the whole multitude. This immense wave then + retired, but returned with still greater violence, bringing with it the + bodies of the men and animals it had previously swept away, dashing to + pieces the whole of the boats, drowning all that were in them, and wafting + the fragments far inland. The prince with 1,430 of his people perished by + this disaster. + </p> + <p> + It was on the north-eastern shore of Sicily, however, that the greatest + amount of damage was done. The first severe shock, on the 5th of February, + overthrew nearly the whole of the beautiful city of Messina, with great + loss of life. The shore for a considerable distance along the coast was + rent, and the ground along the port, which was before quite level, became + afterwards inclined towards the sea, the depth of the water having, at the + same time, increased in several parts, through the displacement of + portions of the bottom. The quay also subsided about fourteen inches below + the level of the sea, and the houses near it were much rent. But it was in + the city itself that the most terrible desolation was wrought—a + complication of disasters having followed the shock, more especially a + fierce conflagration, whose intensity was augmented by the large stores of + oil kept in the place. + </p> + <p> + IMMENSE DESTRUCTION + </p> + <p> + According to official reports made soon after the events, the destruction + caused by the earthquakes of the 5th of February and 28th of March + throughout the two Calabrias was immense. About 320 towns and villages + were entirely reduced to ruins, and about fifty others seriously damaged. + The loss of life was appalling—40,000 having perished by the + earthquakes, and 20,000 more having subsequently died from privation and + exposure, or from epidemic diseases bred by the stagnant pools and the + decaying carcases of men and animals. The greater number were buried amid + the ruins of the houses, while others perished in the fires that were + kindled in most of the towns, particularly in Oppido, where the flames + were fed by great magazines of oil. Not a few, especially among the + peasantry dwelling in the country, were suddenly engulfed in fissures. + Many who were only half buried in the ruins, and who might have been saved + had there been help at hand, were left to die a lingering death from cold + and hunger. Four Augustine monks at Terranuova perished thus miserably. + Having taken refuge in a vaulted sacristy, they were entombed in it alive + by the masses of rubbish, and lingered for four days, during which their + cries for help could be heard, till death put an end to their sufferings. + </p> + <p> + Of still more thrilling interest was the case of the Marchioness Spastara. + Having fainted at the moment of the first great shock, she was lifted by + her husband, who, bearing her in his arms, hurried with her to the harbor. + Here, on recovering her senses, she observed that her infant boy had been + left behind. Taking advantage of a moment when her husband was too much + occupied to notice her, she darted off and, running back to the house, + which was still standing, she snatched her babe from its cradle. Rushing + with him in her arms towards the staircase, she found the stair had fallen—cutting + off all further progress in that direction. She fled from room to room, + pursued by the falling materials, and at length reached a balcony as her + last refuge. Holding up her infant, she implored the few passers-by for + help; but they all, intent on securing their own safety, turned a deaf ear + to her cries. Meanwhile the mansion had caught fire, and before long the + balcony, with the devoted lady still grasping her darling, was hurled into + the devouring flames. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII. + </h2> + <h3> + The Charleston and Other Earthquakes of the United States. + </h3> + <p> + The twin continents of America have rivalled the record of the Old World + in their experience of earthquakes since their discovery in 1492. The + first of these made note of was in Venezuela in 1530, but they have been + numerous and often disastrous since. Among them was the great shock at + Lima in 1746, by which 18,000 were killed, and those at Guatemala in 1773, + with 33,000, and at Riobamba in 1797, with 41,000 victims. It will, + however, doubtless prove of more interest to our readers if we pass over + these ruinous disasters and confine ourselves to the less destructive + earthquakes which have taken place within our own country. + </p> + <p> + The United States, large a section of North America as it occupies, is + fortunate in being in a great measure destitute of volcanic phenomena, + while destructive earthquakes have been very rare in its history. This, it + is true, does not apply to the United States as it is, but as it was. It + has annexed the volcano and the earthquake with its new accessions of + territory. Alaska has its volcanoes, the Philippines are subject to both + forms of convulsion, and in Hawaii we possess the most spectacular volcano + of the earth, while the earthquake is its common attendant. But in the + older United States the volcano contents itself with an occasional puff of + smoke, and eruptive phenomena are confined to the minor form of the + geyser. + </p> + <p> + We are by no means so free from the earthquake. Slight movements of the + earth’s surface are much more common than many of us imagine, and in the + history of our land there have been a number of earth shocks of + considerable violence. Prior to that of San Francisco, the most + destructive to life and property was that of Charleston in 1886, though + the 1812 convulsion in the Mississippi Valley might have proved a much + greater calamity but for the fact that civilized man had not then largely + invaded its centre of action. + </p> + <p> + As regards the number of earth movements in this country, we are told that + in New England alone 231 were recorded in two hundred and fifty years, + while doubtless many slighter ones were left unrecorded. Taking the whole + United States, there were 364 recorded in the twelve years from 1872 to + 1883, and in 1885 fifty-nine were recorded, more than two-thirds of them + being on the Pacific slope. Most of these, however, were very slight, some + of them barely perceptible. + </p> + <p> + Confining ourselves to those of the past important in their effects, we + shall first speak of the shocks which took place in New England in 1755, + in the year and month of the great earthquake at Lisbon. On the 18th of + November of that year, while the shocks at Lisbon still continued, New + England was violently shaken, loud underground explosive noises + accompanying the shocks. In the harbors along the Atlantic coast there was + much agitation of the waters and many dead fish were thrown up on the + shores. The shock, indeed, was felt far from the coast, by the crew of a + ship more than two hundred miles out at sea from Cape Ann, Massachusetts. + </p> + <p> + This event, however, was of minor importance, being much inferior to that + of 1812, in which year California and the Mississippi Valley alike were + affected by violent movements of the earth’s crust. The California + convulsions took place in the spring and summer of that year, extending + from the beginning of May until September. Throughout May the southern + portion of that region was violently agitated, the shocks being so + frequent and severe that people abandoned their houses and slept on the + open ground. The most destructive shocks came in September, when two + Mission houses were destroyed and many of their inmates killed. At Santa + Barbara a tidal wave invaded the coast and flowed some distance into the + interior. + </p> + <p> + It may be said here that California has proved more subject to severe + shocks than any other section of our country. In 1865 sharp tremors shook + the whole region about the Bay of San Francisco, many buildings being + thrown down. Hardly any of brick or stone escaped injury, though few lives + were lost. In 1872 a disturbance was felt farther west, the whole range of + the Sierra Nevada mountains being violently shaken and the earth + tremblings extending into the State of Nevada. The centre of activity was + along the crest of the range, and immense quantities of rock were thrown + down from the mountain pinnacles. A tremendous fissure opened along the + eastern base of the mountain range for forty miles, the land to the west + of the opening rising and that to the east sinking several feet. One small + settlement, that of Lone Pine, in Owen’s Valley, on the east base of the + mountains, was completely demolished, from twenty to thirty lives being + lost. Luckily, the region affected had very few inhabitants, or the + calamity might have been great. + </p> + <p> + The earthquakes of 1812 in the Mississippi Valley began in December, 1811, + and continued at intervals until 1813. As a rule they were more + distinguished by frequency than violence, though on several occasions they + were severe and had marked effects. They extended through the valleys of + the Mississippi, Arkansas and Ohio, and their long continuance was + remarkable in view of the territory affected being far from any volcanic + region. + </p> + <p> + The surface of the valley of the Mississippi was a good deal altered by + these convulsions—several new lakes being formed, while others were + drained. Several new islands were also raised in the river, and during one + of the shocks the ground a little below New Madrid was for a short time + lifted so high as to stop the current of the Mississippi, and cause it to + flow backward. The ground on which this town is built, and the bank of the + river for fifteen miles above it, subsided permanently about eight feet, + and the cemetery of the town fell into the river. In the neighboring + forest the trees were thrown into inclined positions in every direction, + and many of their trunks and branches were broken. It is affirmed that in + some places the ground swelled into great waves, which burst at their + summits and poured forth jets of water, along with sand and pieces of + coal, which were tossed as high as the tops of trees. On the subsidence of + these waves, there were left several hundreds of hollow depressions from + ten to thirty yards in diameter, and about twenty feet in depth, which + remained visible for many years afterward. Some of the shocks were + vertical, and others horizontal, the latter being the most mischievous. + These earthquakes resulted in the general subsidence of a large tract of + country, between seventy and eighty miles in length from north to south, + and about thirty miles in breadth from east to west. Lakes now mark many + of the localities affected by the earthquake movements. It is only to the + fact that this country was then very thinly settled that a great loss of + life was avoided. + </p> + <p> + New Madrid, Missouri, was a central point of this earthquake, the shocks + there being repeated with great frequency for several months. The + disturbance of the earth, however, was not confined to the United States, + but affected nearly half of the western hemisphere, ending in the upheaval + of Sabrina in the Azores, already described. The destruction of Caracas, + Venezuela, with many thousands of its inhabitants, and the eruption of La + Soufriere volcano of St. Vincent Island were incidents of this convulsion. + Dr. J. W. Foster tells us that on the night of the disaster at Caracas the + earthquake grew intense at New Madrid, fissures being opened six hundred + feet long by twenty broad, from which water and sand were flung to the + height of forty feet. + </p> + <p> + The most destructive of earthquakes in our former history was that which + visited Charleston, South Carolina, in 1886, the injury caused by it being + largely due to the fact that it passed through a populous city. As it + occurred after many of the people had retired, the confusion and terror + due to it were greatly augmented, people fleeing in panic fear from the + tumbling and cracking houses to seek refuge in the widest streets and open + spaces. + </p> + <p> + South Carolina had been affected by the wide-spread earthquakes of 1812. + These in some cases altered the level of the land, as is related in + Lyell’s “Principles of Geology.” But the effect then was much less than in + 1886. Several slight tremors occurred in the early summer of that year, + but did not excite much attention. More distinct shocks were felt on + August 27th and 28th, but the climax was deferred till the evening of + August 31st. The atmosphere that afternoon had been unusually sultry and + quiet, the breeze from the ocean, which generally accompanies the rising + tide, was almost entirely absent, and the setting sun caused a little glow + in the sky. + </p> + <p> + “As the hour of 9.50 was reached,” we are told, “there was suddenly heard + a rushing, roaring sound, compared by some to a train of cars at no great + distance, by others to a clatter produced by two or more omnibuses moving + at a rapid rate over a paved street, by others again, to an escape of + steam from a boiler. It was followed immediately by a thumping and beating + of the earth beneath the houses, which rocked and swayed to and fro. + Furniture was violently moved and dashed to the floor; pictures were swung + from the walls, and in some cases turned with their backs to the front, + and every movable thing was thrown into extraordinary convulsions. The + greatest intensity of the shock is considered to have been during the + first half, and it was probably then, during the period of its greatest + sway, that so many chimneys were broken off at the junction of the roof. + The duration of this severe shock is thought to have been from thirty-five + to forty seconds. The impression produced on many was that it could be + subdivided into three distinct movements, while others were of the opinion + that it was one continuous movement, or succession of waves, with the + greatest intensity, as already stated, during the first half of its + duration.” + </p> + <p> + Twenty-seven persons were killed outright, and more than that number died + soon after of their hurts or from exposure; many others were less + seriously injured. Among the buildings, the havoc, though much less + disastrous than has been recorded in some other earthquakes in either + hemisphere, was very great. “There was not a building in the city which + had escaped serious injury. The extent of the damage varied greatly, + ranging from total demolition down to the loss of chimney tops and the + dislodgment of more or less plastering. The number of buildings which were + completely demolished and levelled to the ground was not great; but there + were several hundreds which lost a large portion of their walls. There + were very many also which remained standing, but so badly shattered that + public safety required that they should be pulled down altogether. There + was not, so far as at present is known, a brick or stone building which + was not more or less cracked, and in most of them the cracks were a + permanent disfigurement and a source of danger and inconvenience.” In some + places the railway track was curiously distorted. “It was often displaced + laterally, and sometimes alternately depressed and elevated. Occasionally + several lateral flexures of double curvature and of great amount were + exhibited. Many hundred yards of track had been shoved bodily to the south + eastward.” + </p> + <p> + The ground was fissured at some places in the city to a depth of many + feet, and numerous “craterlets” were formed, from which sand was ejected + in considerable quantities. These are not uncommon phenomena, and were + due, no doubt, to the squirting of water out of saturated sandy layers not + far below the surface; these being squeezed between two less pervious beds + in the passage of the earthquake wave. The ejected material in the + Charleston earthquake was ordinary sand, such as might exist in many + districts which had been quite undisturbed by any concussions of the + earth. + </p> + <p> + Captain Dutton made a careful study of the observations collected by + himself and others concerning this earthquake, and came to the conclusion + that the Charleston wave traveled with unusual speed, for its mean + velocity was about 17,000 feet a second. The focus of the disturbance was + also ascertained. Apparently it was a double one, the two centres being + about thirteen miles apart, and the line joining them running nearly the + same distance to the west of Charleston. The approximate depth of the + principal focus is given as twelve miles, with a possible error of less + than two miles; that of the minor one as roughly eight miles. + </p> + <p> + The Charleston earthquake was felt as a tremor of more or less force + through a wide area, embracing 900,000 square miles, and affecting nearly + the whole country east of the Mississippi. It is said that the yield of + the Pennsylvania natural gas wells decreased, and that a geyser in the + Yellowstone valley burst into action after four years of rest. The + movement of the earth-wave was in general north and south, deflected to + east and west, and the snake-like fashion in which rails on the railroad + were bent indicated both a vertical and a lateral force. + </p> + <p> + This earthquake has been attributed to various causes, but geological + experts think that it was due to a slip in the crust along the Appalachian + Mountain chain. There is a line of weakness along the eastern slope of + this chain, characterized by fissures and faults, and it was thought that + a strain had been gradually brought to bear upon this through the removal + of earth from the land by rains and rivers and its deposition in thick + strata on the sea-bottom. It is supposed that this variation in weight in + time caused a yielding of the strata and a slip seaward of the great + coastal plain. Professor Mendenhall, however, thinks it was due to a + readjustment of the earth’s crust to its gradually sinking nucleus. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII. + </h2> + <h3> + The Volcano and the Earthquake, Earth’s Demons of Destruction. + </h3> + <p> + To most of us, dwellers upon the face of the earth, this terrestrial + sphere is quite a comfortable place of residence. The forces of Nature + everywhere and at all times surround us, forces capable, if loosened from + their bonds, of bringing death and destruction to man and the work of his + hands. But usually they are mild and beneficent in their action, not + agents of destruction and lords of elemental misrule. The air, without + whose presence we could not survive a minute, is usually a pleasant + companion, now resting about us in soft calm, now passing by in mild + breezes. The alternation of summer and winter is to us generally an + agreeable relief from the monotony of a uniform climate. The variation + from sunlight to cloud, from dry weather to rainfall, is equally viewed as + a pleasant escape from the weariness of too great fixity of natural + conditions. The change from day to night, from hours of activity to hours + of slumber, are other agreeable variations in the events of our daily + life. In short, a great pendulum seems to be swinging above us, held in + Nature’s kindly hand, and adapting its movements to our best good and + highest enjoyment. + </p> + <p> + But has Nature,—if we are justified in personifying the laws and + forces of the universe,—has mother Nature really our pleasure and + benefit in mind, or does she merely suffer us to enjoy life like so many + summer insects, until she is in the mood to sweep us like leaves from her + path? It must seem the latter to many of the inhabitants of the earth, + especially to the dwellers in certain ill-conditioned regions. For all the + beneficent powers above named may at a moment’s notice change to + destructive ones. + </p> + <p> + THE WIND IS A DEMON IN CHAINS + </p> + <p> + The wind, for instance, is a demon in chains. At times it breaks its + fetters and rushes on in mad fury, rending and destroying, and sweeping + such trifles as cities and those who dwell therein to common ruin. + Sunshine and rain are subject to like wild caprices. The sun may pour down + burning rays for weeks and months together, scorching the fertile fields, + drying up the life-giving streams, bringing famine and misery to lands of + plenty and comfort, almost making the blood to boil in our veins. Its + antithesis, the rainstorm, is at times a still more terrible visitant. + From the dense clouds pour frightful floods, rushing down the lofty hills, + sweeping over fertile plains, overflowing broad river valleys, and, + wherever they go, leaving terror and death in their path. We may say the + same of the alternation of the seasons. Summer, while looked forward to + with joyous anticipation, may bring us only suffering by its too ardent + grasp; and winter, often welcomed with like pleasurable anticipations, may + prove a period of terror from cold and destitution. + </p> + <p> + Such is the make-up of the world in which we live, such the vagaries of + the forces which surround us. But those enumerated are not the whole. Can + we say, with a stamp of the foot upon the solid earth, “Here at least I + have something I can trust; let the winds blow and the rains descend, let + the summer scorch and the winter chill, the good earth still stands firm + beneath me, and of it at least I am sure?” + </p> + <p> + Who says so speaks hastily and heedlessly, for the earth can show itself + as unstable as the air, and our solid footing become as insecure as the + deck of a ship laboring in a storm at sea. The powers of the atmosphere, + great as they are and mighty for destruction as they may become, are at + times surpassed by those which abide within the earth, deep laid in the + so-called everlasting rocks, slumbering often through generations, but at + any time likely to awaken in wrath, to lift the earth into quaking billows + like those of the sea, or pour forth torrents of liquid fire that flow in + glowing and burning rivers over leagues of ruined land. Such is the earth + with which we have to deal, such the ruthless powers of nature that spread + around us and lurk beneath us, such the terrific forces which only bide + their time to break forth and sweep too-confident man from the earth’s + smiling face. + </p> + <p> + THE SUBTERRANEAN POWERS + </p> + <p> + The subterranean powers here spoken of, those we had denominated earth’s + demons of destruction, are the volcano and the earthquake, the great + moulding forces of the earth, tearing down to rebuild, rending to + reconstitute, and in this elemental work often bringing ruin to man’s + boasted fanes and palaces. + </p> + <p> + No one who has ever seen a volcano or “burning mountain” casting forth + steam, huge red-hot stones, smoke, cinders and lava, can possibly forget + the grandeur of the spectacle. At night it is doubly terrible, when the + darkness shows the red-hot lava rolling in glowing streams down the + mountain’s side. At times, indeed, the volcano is quiet, and only a little + smoke curls from its top. Even this may cease, and the once burning summit + may be covered over with trees and grass, like any other hill. But deep + down in the earth the gases and pent-up steam, are ever preparing to force + their way upward through the mountain, and to carry with them dissolved + rocks, and the stones which block their passage. Sometimes, while all is + calm and beautiful on the mountains, suddenly deep-sounding noises are + heard, the ground shakes, and a vast torrent tears its way through the + bowels of the volcano, and is flung hundreds of feet high in the air, and, + falling again to the earth, destroys every living thing for miles around. + </p> + <p> + It is the same with the earthquake as with the volcano. The surface of the + earth is never quite still. Tremors are constantly passing onward which + can be distinguished by delicate instruments, but only rarely are these of + sufficient force to become noticeable, except by instrumental means. At + intervals, however, the power beneath the surface raises the ground in + long, billow-like motions, before which, when of violent character, no + edifice or human habitation can for a moment stand. The earth is + frequently rent asunder, great fissures and cavities being formed. The + course of rivers is changed and the waters are swallowed up by fissures + rent in the surface, while ruin impends in a thousand forms. The cities + become death pits and the cultivated fields are buried beneath floods of + liquid mud. Fortunately these convulsions, alike of the earthquake and + volcano, are comparative rarities and are confined to limited regions of + the earth’s surface. What do we know of those deep-lying powers, those + vast buried forces dwelling in uneasy isolation beneath our feet? With all + our science we are but a step beyond the ancients, to whom these were the + Titans, great rebel giants whom Jupiter overthrew and bound under the + burning mountains, and whose throes of agony shook the earth in quaking + convulsions. To us the volcanic crater is the mouth from which comes the + fiery breath of demon powers which dwell far down in the earth’s crust. + The Titans themselves were dwarfs beside these mighty agents of + destruction whose domain extends for thousands of miles beneath the + earth’s surface and which in their convulsions shake whole continents at + once. Such was the case in 1812, when the eruption of Mont Soufriere on + St. Vincent, as told in a later chapter, formed merely the closing event + in a series of earthquakes which had made themselves felt under thousands + of miles of land. + </p> + <p> + ANCIENT AWE OF VOLCANOES + </p> + <p> + In olden times volcanoes were regarded with superstitious awe, and it + would have been considered highly impious to make any investigation of + their actions. We are told by Virgil that Mt. Etna marks the spot where + the gods in their anger buried Enceladus, one of the rebellious giants. To + our myth-making ancestors one of the volcanoes of the Mediterranean, set + on a small island of the Lipari group, was the workshop of Vulcan, the god + of fire, within whose depths he forged the thunderbolts of the gods. From + below came sounds as of a mighty hammer on a vast anvil. Through the + mountain vent came the black smoke and lurid glow from the fires of + Vulcan’s forge. This old myth is in many respects more consonant with the + facts of nature than myths usually are. In agreement with the theory of + its internal forces, the mountain in question was given the name of + Volcano. To-day it is scarcely known at all, but its name clings to all + the fire-breathing mountains of the earth. + </p> + <p> + As before said, at the present day we are little in advance of the + ancients in actual knowledge of what is going on so far beneath our feet. + We speak of forces where they spoke of fettered giants, but can only form + theories where they formed myths. Is the earth’s centre made up of liquid + fire? Does its rock crust resemble the thick ice crust on the Arctic Seas, + or is the earth, as later scientists believe, solid to the core? Is it + heated so fiercely, miles below our feet, that at every release of + pressure the solid rock bursts into molten lava? Is the steam from the + contact of underground rivers and deep-lying fires the origin of the + terrible rending powers of the volcano’s depths? Truly we can answer none + of these questions with assurance, and can only guess and conjecture from + the few facts open to us what lies concealed far beneath. + </p> + <p> + RARITY OF ANCIENT ACCOUNTS + </p> + <p> + In the history of earthquakes nothing is more remarkable than the extreme + fewness of those recorded before the beginning of the Christian era, in + comparison with those that have been registered since that time. It is to + be borne in mind, however, that before the birth of Christ only a small + portion of the globe was inhabited by those likely to make a record of + natural events. The vast apparent increase in the number of earthquakes in + recent times is owing to a greater knowledge of the earth’s surface and to + the spread of civilization over lands once inhabited by savages. The same + is to be said of volcanic eruptions, which also have apparently increased + greatly since the beginning of the Christian era. There may possibly have + been a natural increase in these phenomena, but this is hardly probable, + the change being more likely due to the increase in the number of + observers. + </p> + <p> + The structure of a volcano is very different from that of other mountains, + really consisting of layers of lava and volcanic ashes, alternating with + each other and all sloping away from the center. These elevations, in + fact, are formed in a different manner from ordinary mountains. The latter + have been uplifted by the influence of pressure in the interior of the + earth, but the volcano is an immediate result of the explosive force of + which we have spoken, the mountain being gradually built up by the lava + and other materials which it has flung up from below. In this way + mountains of immense height and remarkable regularity have been formed. + Mount Orizabo, near the City of Mexico, for instance, is a remarkably + regular cone, undoubtedly formed in this way, and the same may be said of + Mount Mayon, on the Island of Luzon. + </p> + <p> + In many cases the irregularity of the volcano is due to subsequent action + of its forces, which may blow the mountain itself to pieces. In the case + of Krakatoa, in the East Indies, for instance, the whole mountain was rent + into fragments, which were flung as dust miles high into the air. The main + point we wish to indicate is that volcanoes are never formed by ordinary + elevating forces and that they differ in this way from all other + mountains. On the contrary, they have been piled up like rubbish heaps, + resembling the small mountains of coal dust near the mouths of anthracite + mines. + </p> + <p> + It is to the burning heat of the earth’s crust and the influence of + pressure, and more largely to the influx of water to the molten rocks + which lie miles below the surface, that these convulsions of nature are + due. Water, on reaching these overheated strata, explodes into volumes of + steam, and if there is no free vent to the surface, it is apt to rend the + very mountain asunder in its efforts to escape. Such is supposed to have + been the case in the eruption of Krakatoa, and was probably the case also + in the recent case of Mt. Pelee. + </p> + <p> + GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ERUPTIONS + </p> + <p> + If we should seek to give a general description of volcanic eruptions, it + would be in some such words as follows: An eruption is usually preceded by + earthquakes which affect the whole surrounding country, and associated + with which are underground explosions that seem like the sound of distant + artillery. The mountain quivers with internal convulsions, due to the + efforts of its confined forces to find an opening. The drying up of wells + and disappearance of springs are apt to take place, the water sinking + downward through cracks newly made in the rocks. Finally the fierce + unchained energy rends an opening through the crater and an eruption + begins. It comes usually with a terrible burst that shakes the mountain to + its foundation; explosions following rapidly and with increasing violence, + while steam issues and mounts upward in a lofty column. The steam and + escaping gases in their fierce outbreaks hurl up into the air great + quantities of solid rock torn from the sides of the opening. The huge + blocks, meeting each other in their rise and fall, are gradually broken + and ground into minute fragments, forming dust or so-called ashes, often + of extreme fineness, and in such quantities as frequently to blot out the + light of the sun. There is another way in which a great deal of volcanic + dust is made; the lava is full of steam, which in its expansion tears the + molten rock into atoms, often converting it into the finest dust. + </p> + <p> + The eruption of Mt. Skaptar, in Iceland, in 1783, sent up such volumes of + dust that the atmosphere was loaded with it for months, and it was carried + to the northern part of Scotland, 600 miles away, in such quantities as to + destroy the crops. During the eruption of Tomboro, in the East Indies, in + 1815, so great was the quantity of dust thrown up that it caused darkness + at midday in Java 300 miles away and covered the ground to a depth of + several inches. Floating pumice formed a layer on the ocean surface two + and a half feet in thickness, through which vessels had difficulty in + forcing their way. + </p> + <p> + The steam which rises in large volumes into the air may become suddenly + condensed with the chill of the upper atmosphere and fall as rain, + torrents of which often follow an eruption. The rain, falling through the + clouds of volcanic dust, brings it to the earth as liquid mud, which pours + in thick streams down the sides of the mountain. The torrents of flowing + mud are sometimes on such a great scale that large towns, as in the + instance of the great city of Herculaneum, may be completely buried + beneath them. Over this city the mud accumulated to the depth of over 70 + feet. In addition to these phenomena, molten lava often flows from the lip + of the crater, occasionally in vast quantities. In the Icelandic eruption + of 1783 the lava streams were so great in quantity as to fill river gorges + 600 ft. deep and 200 ft. wide, and to extend over an open plain to a + distance of 12 to 15 miles, forming lakes of lava 100 feet deep. The + volcanoes of Hawaii often send forth streams of lava which cover an area + of over 100 square miles to a great depth. + </p> + <p> + GREAT OUTFLOWS OF LAVA + </p> + <p> + In the course of ages lava outflows of this kind have built up in Hawaii a + volcanic mountain estimated to contain enough material to cover the whole + of the United States with a layer of rock 50 feet deep. These great + outflows of lava are not confined to mountains, but take place now and + then from openings in the ground, or from long cracks in the surface + rocks. Occasionally great eruptions have taken place beneath the ocean’s + surface, throwing up material in sufficient quantity to form new islands. + </p> + <p> + The formation of mud is not confined to the method given, but great + quantities of this plastic material flow at times from volcanic craters. + In the year 1691 Imbaburu, one of the peaks of the Andes, sent out floods + of mud which contained dead fish in such abundance that their decay caused + a fever in the vicinity. The volcanoes of Java have often buried large + tracts of fertile country under volcanic mud. + </p> + <p> + An observation of volcanoes shows us that they have three well marked + phases of action. The first of these is the state of permanent eruption, + as in case of the volcano of Stromboli in the Mediterranean. This state is + not a dangerous one, since the steam, escaping continually, acts as a + safety valve. The second stage is one of milder activity with an + occasional somewhat violent eruption; this is apt to be dangerous, though + not often very greatly so. The safety valve is partly out of order. The + third phase is one in which long periods of repose, sometimes lasting for + centuries, are followed by eruptions of intense energy. These are often of + extreme violence and cause widespread destruction. In this case the safety + valve has failed to work and the boiler bursts. + </p> + <p> + OFTEN REST FOR LONG TERMS OF YEARS + </p> + <p> + Such are the general features of action in the vast powers which dwell + deep beneath the surface, harmless in most parts of the earth, frightfully + perilous in others. Yet even here they often rest for long terms of years + in seeming apathy, until men gather above their lurking places in + multitudes, heedless or ignorant of the sleeping demons that bide their + time below. Their time is sure to come, after years, perhaps after + centuries. Suddenly the solid earth begins to tremble and quake; roars as + of one of the buried giants of old strike all men with dread; then, with a + fierce convulsion, a mountain is rent in twain and vast torrents of steam, + burning rock, and blinding dust are hurled far upward into the air, to + fall again and bury cities, perhaps, with all their inhabitants in + indiscriminate ruin and death. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX. + </h2> + <h3> + Theories of Volcanic and Earthquake Action. + </h3> + <p> + Though the first formation of a volcano (Italian, vulcano, from Vulcan, + the Roman god of fire) has seldom been witnessed, it would seem that it is + marked by earthquake movements followed by the opening of a rent or + fissure; but with no such tilting up of the rocks as was once supposed to + take place. From this fissure large volumes of steam issue, accompanied by + hydrogen, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, hydrochloric acid, and sulphur + dioxide. The hydrogen, apparently derived from the dissociation of water + at a high temperature, flashes explosively into union with atmospheric + oxygen, and, having exerted its explosive force, the steam condenses into + cloud, heavy masses of which overhang the volcano, pouring down copious + rains. This naturally disturbs the electrical condition of the atmosphere, + so that thunder and lightning are frequent accompaniments of an eruption. + The hydrochloric acid probably points to the agency of sea-water. Besides + the gases just mentioned, sulphuretted hydrogen, ammonia and common salt + occur; but mainly as secondary products, formed by the union of the vapors + issuing from the volcano, and commonly found also in the vapors rising + from cooling lava streams or dormant volcanic districts. It is important + to notice that the vapors issue from the volcano spasmodically, explosions + succeeding each other with great rapidity and noise. + </p> + <p> + All substances thrown out by the volcano, whether gaseous, liquid or + solid, are conveniently united under the term ejectamenta (Latin, things + thrown out), and all of them are in an intensely heated, if not an + incandescent state. Most of the gases are incombustible, but the hydrogen + and those containing sulphur burn with a true flame, perhaps rendered more + visible by the presence of solid particles. Much of the so-called flame, + however, in popular descriptions of eruptions is an error of observation + due to the red-hot solid particles and the reflection of the glowing + orifice on the over-hanging clouds. + </p> + <p> + ENORMOUS FORCE DISPLAYED + </p> + <p> + Solid bodies are thrown into the air with enormous force and to + proportionally great heights, those not projected vertically falling in + consequence at considerable distances from the volcano. A block weighing + 200 tons is said to have been thrown nine miles by Cotopaxi; masses of + rock weighing as much as twenty tons to have been ejected by Mount Ararat + in 1840; and stones to have been hurled to a distance of thirty-six miles + in other cases. The solid matter thrown out by volcanoes consists of + lapilli, scoriae, dust and bombs. + </p> + <p> + Though on the first formation of the volcano, masses of non-volcanic rock + may be torn from the chimney or pipe of the mountain, only slightly fused + externally owing to the bad conducting power of most rocks, and hurled to + a distance; and though at the beginning of a subsequent eruption the solid + plug of rock which has cooled at the bottom of the crater, or, in fact, + any part of the volcano, may be similarly blown up, the bulk of the solid + particles of which the volcano itself is composed is derived from the lake + of lava or molten rock which seethes at the orifice. Solid pieces rent + from this fused mass and cast up by the explosive force of the steam with + which the lava is saturated are known as lapilli. Cooling rapidly so as to + be glassy in texture externally, these often have time to become perfectly + crystalline within. + </p> + <p> + Gases and steam escaping from other similar masses may leave them hollow, + when they are termed bombs, or may pit their surfaces with irregular + bubble-cavities, when they are called scoriae or scoriaceous. Such masses + whirling through the air in a plastic state often become more or less + oblately spheroidal in form; but, as often, the explosive force of their + contained vapors shatters them into fragments, producing quantities of the + finest volcanic dust or sand. This fine dust darkens the clouds + overhanging the mountain, mixes with the condensed steam to fall as a + black mud-rain, or lava di aqua (Italian, water lava), or is carried up to + enormous heights, and then slowly diffused by upper currents of the + atmosphere. In the eruption of Vesuvius of A.D. 79, the air was dark as + midnight for twelve or fifteen miles round; the city of Pompeii was buried + beneath a deposit of dry scoriae, or ashes and dust, and Herculaneum + beneath a layer of the mud-like lava di aqua, which on drying sets into a + compact rock. Rocks formed from these fragmentary volcanic materials are + known as tuff. + </p> + <p> + VOLCANIC CONES HAVE SIMILAR CURVATURES + </p> + <p> + It is entirely of these cindery fragments heaped up with marvellous + rapidity round the orifice that the volcano itself is first formed. It + may, as in the case of Jorullo in Mexico in 1759, form a cone several + hundred feet high in less than a day. Such a cone may have a slope as + steep as 30 or 40 degrees, its incline in all cases depending simply on + the angle of repose of its materials; the inclination, that is, at which + they stop rolling. The great volcanoes of the Andes, which are formed + mainly of ash, are very steep. Owing to a general similarity in their + materials, volcanic cones in all parts of the world have very similar + curvatures; but older volcanic mountains, in which lava-streams have + broken through the cone, secondary cones have arisen, or portions have + been blown up, are more irregular in outline and more gradual in + inclination. + </p> + <p> + In size, volcanoes vary from mere mounds a few yards in diameter, such as + the salses or mud volcanoes near the Caspian, to Etna, 10,800 feet high, + with a base 30 miles in diameter; Cotopaxi, in the Andes, 18,887 feet + high; or Mauna Loa, in the Sandwich Isles, 13,700 feet high; with a base + 70 miles in diameter, and two craters, one of which, Kilauea, the largest + active crater on our earth, is seven miles in circuit. Larger extinct + craters occur in Japan; but all our terrestrial volcanic mountains are + dwarfed by those observed on the surface of the moon, which, owing to its + smaller size, has cooled more rapidly than our earth. It is, of course, + the explosive force from below which keeps the crater clear, as a + cup-shaped hollow, truncating the cone; and all stones falling into it + would be only thrown out again. It may at the close of an eruption cool + down so completely that a lake can form within it, such as Lake Averno, + near Naples; or it may long remain a seething sea of lava, such as + Kilauea; or the lava may find one or more outlets from it, either by + welling over its rim, which it will then generally break down, as in many + of the small extinct volcanoes (“puys”) of Auvergne, or more usually by + bursting through the sides of the cone. + </p> + <p> + LAVA VARIES VERY MUCH IN LIQUIDITY + </p> + <p> + It is not generally until the volcano has exhausted its first explosive + force that lava begins to issue. Several streams may issue in different + directions. Their dimensions are sometimes enormous. Lava varies very much + in liquidity and in the rate at which it flows. This much depends, + however, upon the slope it has to traverse. A lava stream at Vesuvius ran + three miles in four minutes, but took three hours to flow the next three + miles, while a stream from Mauna Loa ran eighteen miles in two hours. + Glowing at first as a white-hot liquid, the lava soon cools at the surface + to red and then to black; cinder-like scoriaceous masses form on its + surface and in front of the slowly-advancing mass; clouds of steam and + other vapor rise from it, and little cones are thrown up from its surface; + but many years may elapse before the mass is cooled through. Thus, while + the surface is glassy, the interior becomes crystalline. + </p> + <p> + As to what are the causes of the great convulsions of nature known as the + volcano and the earthquake we know very little. Various theories have been + advanced, but nothing by any means sure has been discovered, and + considerable difference of opinion exists. In truth we know so little + concerning the conditions existing in the earth’s interior that any views + concerning the forces at work there must necessarily be largely + conjectural. + </p> + <p> + Sir Robert S. Ball says, in this connection: “Let us take, for instance, + that primary question in terrestrial physics, as to whether the interior + of the earth is liquid or solid. If we were to judge merely from the + temperatures reasonably believed to exist at a depth of some twenty miles, + and if we might overlook the question of pressure, we should certainly say + that the earth’s interior must be in a fluid state. It seems at least + certain that the temperatures to be found at depths of two score miles, + and still more at greater depths, must be so high that the most refractory + solids, whether metals or minerals, would at once yield if we could + subject them to such temperatures in our laboratories. But none of our + laboratory experiments can tell us whether, under the pressure of + thousands of tons on the square inch, the application of any heat whatever + would be adequate to transform solids into liquids. It may, indeed, be + reasonably doubted whether the terms solid and liquid are applicable, in + the sense in which we understand them, to the materials forming the + interior of the earth. + </p> + <p> + “A principle, already well known in the arts, is that many, if not all, + solids may be made to flow like liquids if only adequate pressure be + applied. The making of lead tubes is a well-known practical illustration + of this principle, for these tubes are formed simply by forcing solid lead + by the hydraulic press through a mould which imparts the desired shape. + </p> + <p> + “If then a solid can be made to behave like a liquid, even with such + pressures as are within our control, how are we to suppose that the solids + would behave with such pressures as those to which they are subjected in + the interior of the earth? The fact is that the terms solid and liquid, at + least as we understand them, appear to have no physical meaning with + regard to bodies subjected to these stupendous pressures, and this must be + carefully borne in mind when we are discussing the nature of the interior + of the earth.” + </p> + <p> + THE VOLCANO A SAFETY VALVE + </p> + <p> + Whatever be the state of affairs in the depths of the earth’s crust, we + may look upon the volcano as a sort of safety-valve, opening a passage for + the pent-up forces to the surface, and thus relieving the earth from the + terrible effects of the earthquake, through which these imprisoned powers + so often make themselves felt. Without the volcanic vent there might be no + safety for man on the earth’s unquiet face. + </p> + <p> + Professor J. C. Russell, of Michigan University, presents the following + views concerning the status and action of volcanoes:— + </p> + <p> + “When reduced to its simplest terms, a volcano may be defined as a tube, + or conduit, in the earth’s crust, through which the molten rock is forced + to the surface. The conduit penetrates the cool and rigid rocks forming + the superficial portion of the earth, and reaches its highly heated + interior. + </p> + <p> + “The length of volcanic conduits can only be conjectured, but, judging + from the approximately known rate of increase of heat with depth (on an + average one degree Fahrenheit for each sixty feet), and the temperature at + which volcanic rocks melt (from 2,300 to 2,700 degrees Fahrenheit, when + not under pressure), they must seemingly have a depth of at least twenty + miles. There are other factors to be considered, but in general terms it + is safe to assume that the conduits of volcanoes are irregular openings, + many miles in depth, which furnish passageways for molten rock (lava) from + the highly-heated sub-crust portion of the earth to its surface. . . .” + </p> + <p> + ERUPTIONS OF QUIET TYPE + </p> + <p> + “During eruptions of the quiet type, the lava comes to the surface in a + highly liquid condition—that is, it is thoroughly fused, and flows + with almost the freedom of water. It spreads widely, even on a nearly + level plain, and may form a comparatively thin sheet several hundred + square miles in area, as has been observed in Iceland and Hawaii. On the + Snake River plains, in Southern Idaho, there are sheets of once molten + rock which were poured out in the manner just stated, some four hundred + square miles in area and not over seventy-five feet in average thickness. + When an eruption of highly liquid lava occurs in a mountainous region, the + molten rock may cascade down deep slopes and flow through narrow valleys + for fifty miles or more before becoming chilled sufficiently to arrest its + progress. Instances are abundant where quiet eruptions have occurred in + the midst of a plain, and built up ‘lava cones,’ or low mounds, with + immensely expanded bases. Illustrations are furnished in Southern Idaho, + in which the cones formed are only three hundred or four hundred feet + high, but have a breadth at the base of eight or ten miles. In the class + of eruption illustrated by these examples, there is an absence of + fragmental material, such as explosive volcanoes hurl into the air, and a + person may stand within a few yards of a rushing stream of molten rock, or + examine closely the opening from which it is being poured out, without + danger or serious inconvenience. + </p> + <p> + “The quiet volcanic eruptions are attended by the escape of steam or gases + from the molten rock, but the lava being in a highly liquid state, the + steam and gases dissolved in it escape quietly and without explosions. If, + however, the molten rock is less completely fluid, or in a viscous + condition, the vapors and gases contained in it find difficulty in + escaping, and may be retained until, becoming concentrated in large + volume, they break their way to the surface, producing violent explosions. + Volcanoes in which the lava extruded is viscous, and the escape of steam + and gases is retarded until the pent-up energy bursts all bounds, are of + the explosive, type. One characteristic example is Vesuvius. + </p> + <p> + “When steam escapes from the summit of a volcanic conduit—which, in + plain terms, is a tall vessel filled with intensely hot and more or less + viscous liquid—masses of the liquid rock are blown into the air, and + on falling build up a rim or crater about the place of discharge. Commonly + the lava in the summit portion of a conduit becomes chilled and perhaps + hardened, and when a steam explosion occurs this crust is shattered and + the fragments hurled into the air and contributed to the building of the + walls of the inclosing crater. + </p> + <p> + “The solid rock blown out by volcanoes consists usually of highly + vesicular material which hardened on the surface of the column of lava + within a conduit and was shattered by explosions beneath it. These + fragments vary in size from dust particles up to masses several feet in + diameter, and during violent eruptions are hurled miles high. The larger + fragments commonly fall near their place of origin, and usually furnish + the principal part of the material of which craters are built, but the + gravel-like kernels, lapilli, may be carried laterally several miles if a + wind is blowing, while the dust is frequently showered down on thousands + of square miles of land and sea. The solid and usually angular fragments + manufactured in this manner vary in temperature, and may still be red hot + on falling. + </p> + <p> + “Volcanoes of the explosive type not uncommonly discharge streams of lava, + which may flow many miles. In certain instances these outwellings of + liquid rock occur after severe earthquakes and violent explosions, and may + have all the characteristics of quiet eruptions. There is thus no + fundamental difference between the two types into which it is convenient + to divide volcanoes.” + </p> + <p> + MOUNTAINS BLOW THEIR HEADS OFF + </p> + <p> + “In extreme examples of explosive volcanoes, the summit portion of a + crater, perhaps several miles in circumference and several thousand feet + high, is blown away. Such an occurrence is recorded in the case of the + volcano Coseguina, Nicaragua, in 1835. Or, an entire mountain may + disappear, being reduced to lapilli and dust and blown into the air, as in + the case of Krakatoa, in the Straits of Sunda, in 1883. + </p> + <p> + “The essential feature of a volcano, as stated above, is a tube or + conduit, leading from the highly heated sub-crust portion of the earth to + the crater and through which molten rock is forced upward to the surface. + The most marked variations in the process depend on the quantity of molten + rock extruded, and on the freedom of escape of the steam and gases + contained in the lava. + </p> + <p> + “The cause of the rise of the molten rock in a volcano is still a matter + for discussion. Certain geologists contend that steam is the sole motive + power; while others consider that the lava is forced to the surface owing + to pressure on the reservoir from which it comes. The view perhaps most + favorably entertained at present, in reference to the general nature of + volcanic eruptions, is that the rigid outer portion of the earth becomes + fractured, owing principally to movements resulting from the shrinking of + the cooling inner mass, and that the intensely hot material reached by the + fissures, previously solid owing to pressure, becomes liquid when pressure + is relieved, and is forced to the surface. As the molten material rises it + invades the water-charged rocks near the surface and acquires steam, or + the gases resulting from the decomposition of water, and a new force is + added which produces the most conspicuous and at times the most terrible + phenomena accompanying eruptions.” + </p> + <p> + The active agency of water is strongly maintained by many geologists, and + certainly gains support from the vast clouds of steam given off by + volcanoes in eruption and the steady and quiet emission of steam from many + in a state of rest. The quantities of water in the liquid state, to which + is due the frequent enormous outflows of mud, leads to the same + conclusion. Many scientists, indeed, while admitting the agency of water, + look upon this as the aqueous material originally pent up within the + rocks. For instance Professor Shaler, dean of the Lawrence Scientific + School, says: + </p> + <p> + “Volcanic outbreaks are merely the explosion of steam under high pressure, + steam which is bound in rocks buried underneath the surface of the earth + and there subjected to such tremendous heat that when the conditions are + right its pent-up energy breaks forth and it shatters its stone prison + walls into dust. The process by which the water becomes buried in this + manner is a long one. Some contend that it leaks down from the surface of + the earth through fissures in the outer crust, but this theory is not + generally accepted. The common belief is that water enters the rocks + during the crystalization period, and that these rocks through the natural + action of rivers and streams become deposited in the bottom of the ocean. + Here they lie for many ages, becoming buried deeper and deeper under + masses of like sediment, which are constantly being washed down upon them + from above. This process is called the blanketing process. + </p> + <p> + “Each additional layer of sediment, while not raising the level of the sea + bottom, buries the first layers just so much the deeper and adds to their + temperature just as does the laying of extra blankets on a bed. When the + first layer has reached a depth of a few thousand feet the rocks which + contain the water of crystalization are subjected to a terrific heat. This + heat generates steam, which is held in a state of frightful tension in its + rocky prison. Wrinklings in the outer crust of the earth’s surface occur, + caused by the constant shrinking of the earth itself and by the + contraction of the outer surface as it settles on the plastic centers + underneath. Fissures are caused by these foldings, and as these fissures + reach down into the earth the pressure is removed from the rocks and the + compressed steam in them, being released, explodes with tremendous force.” + </p> + <p> + This view is, very probably, applicable to many cases, and the exceedingly + fine dust which so often rises from volcanoes has, doubtless, for one of + its causes the sudden and explosive conversion of water into steam in the + interior of ejected lava, thus rending it into innumerable fragments. But + that this is the sole mode of action of water in volcanic eruptions is + very questionable. It certainly does not agree with the immense volumes at + times thrown out, while explosions of such extreme intensity as that of + Krakatoa very strongly lead to the conclusion that a great mass of water + has made its way through newly opened fissures to the level of molten + rock, and exploded into steam with a suddenness which gave it the rending + force of dynamite or the other powerful chemical explosives. + </p> + <p> + As the earthquake is so intimately associated with the volcano the causes + of the latter are in great measure the causes of the former, and the + forces at work frequently produce a more or less violent quaking of the + earth’s surface before they succeed in opening a channel of escape through + the mountain’s heart. One agency of great potency, and one whose work + never ceases, has doubtless much to do with earthquake action. In the + description of this we cannot do better than to quote from “The Earth’s + Beginning” of Sir Robert S. Ball. + </p> + <p> + CAUSE OF EARTHQUAKES + </p> + <p> + “As to the immediate cause of earthquakes there is no doubt considerable + difference of opinion. But I think it will not be doubted that an + earthquake is one of the consequences, though perhaps a remote one, of the + gradual loss of internal heat from the earth. As this terrestrial heat is + gradually declining, it follows from the law that we have already so often + had occasion to use that the bulk of the earth must be shrinking. No doubt + the diminution in the earth’s diameter due to the loss of heat must be + exceedingly small, even in a long period of time. The cause, however, is + continually in operation, and, accordingly, the crust of the earth has + from time to time to be accommodated to the fact that the whole globe is + lessening. The circumference of our earth at the equator must be gradually + declining; a certain length in that circumference is lost each year. We + may admit that loss to be a quantity far too small to be measured by any + observations as yet obtainable, but, nevertheless, it is productive of + phenomena so important that it cannot be overlooked. + </p> + <p> + “It follows from these considerations that the rocks which form the + earth’s crust over the surface of the continents and the islands, or + beneath the bed of the ocean, must have a lessening acreage year by year. + These rocks must therefore submit to compression, either continuously or + from time to time, and the necessary yielding of the rocks will in general + take place in those regions where the materials of the earth’s crust + happen to have comparatively small powers of resistance. The acts of + compression will often, and perhaps generally, not proceed with + uniformity, but rather with small successive shifts, and even though the + displacements of the rocks in these shifts be actually very small, yet the + pressures to which the rocks are subjected are so vast that a very small + shift may correspond to a very great terrestrial disturbance. + </p> + <p> + “Suppose, for instance, that there is a slight shift in the rocks on each + side of a crack, or fault, at a depth of ten miles. It must be remembered + that the pressure ten miles down would be about thirty-five tons to the + square inch. Even a slight displacement of one extensive surface over + another, the sides being pressed together with a force of thirty-five tons + on the square inch, would be an operation necessarily accompanied by + violence greatly exceeding that which we might expect from so small a + displacement if the forces concerned had been of more ordinary magnitude. + On account of this great multiplication of the intensity of the + phenomenon, merely a small rearrangement of the rocks in the crust of the + earth, in pursuance of the necessary work of accommodating its volume to + the perpetual shrinkage, might produce an excessively violent shock, + extending far and wide. The effect of such a shock would be propagated in + the form of waves through the globe, just as a violent blow given at one + end of a bar of iron by a hammer is propagated through the bar in the form + of waves. When the effect of this internal adjustment reaches the earth’s + surface it will sometimes be great enough to be perceptible in the shaking + it gives that surface. The shaking may be so violent that buildings may + not be able to withstand it. Such is the phenomenon of an earthquake. + </p> + <p> + “When the earth is shaken by one of those occasional adjustments of the + crust which I have described, the wave that spreads like a pulsation from + the centre of agitation extends all over our globe and is transmitted + right through it. At the surface lying immediately over the centre of + disturbance there will be a violent shock. In the surrounding country, and + often over great distances, the earthquake may also be powerful enough to + produce destructive effects. The convulsion may also be manifested over a + far larger area of country in a way which makes the shock to be felt, + though the damage wrought may not be appreciable. But beyond a limited + distance from the centre of the agitation the earthquake will produce no + destructive effects upon buildings, and will not even cause vibrations + that would be appreciable to ordinary observation.” + </p> + <p> + THE RADIUS OF DISTURBANCE. + </p> + <p> + “In each locality in which earthquakes are chronic it would seem as if + there must be a particularly weak spot in the earth some miles below the + surface. A shrinkage of the earth, in the course of the incessant + adjustment between the interior and the exterior, will take place by + occasional little jumps at this particular centre. The fact that there is + this weak spot at which small adjustments are possible may provide, as it + were, a safety-valve for other places in the same part of the world. + Instead of a general shrinking, the materials would be sufficiently + elastic and flexible to allow the shrinking for a very large area to be + done at this particular locality. In this way we may explain the fact that + immense tracts on the earth are practically free from earthquakes of a + serious character, while in the less fortunate regions the earthquakes are + more or less perennial. + </p> + <p> + “Now, suppose an earthquake takes place in Japan, it originates a series + of vibrations through our globe. We must here distinguish between the + rocks—I might almost say the comparatively pliant rocks—which + form the earth’s crust, and those which form the intensely rigid core of + the interior of our globe. The vibrations which carry the tidings of the + earthquake spread through the rocks on the surface, from the centre of the + disturbance, in gradually enlarging circles. We may liken the spread of + these vibrations to the ripples in a pool of water which diverge from the + spot where a raindrop has fallen. The vibrations transmitted by the rocks + on the surface, or on the floor of the ocean, will carry the message all + over the earth. As these rocks are flexible, at all events by comparison + with the earth’s interior, the vibrations will be correspondingly large, + and will travel with vigor over land and under sea. In due time they + reach, say the Isle of Wight, where they set the pencil of the seismometer + at work. But there are different ways round the earth from Japan to the + Isle of Wight, the most direct route being across Asia and Europe; the + other route across the Pacific, America, and the Atlantic. The vibrations + will travel by both routes, and the former is the shorter of the two.” + </p> + <p> + TRANSMISSIONS OF VIBRATIONS + </p> + <p> + Some brief repetition may not here be amiss as to the products of volcanic + action, of which so much has been said in the preceding pages, especially + as many of the terms are to some extent technical in character. The most + abundant of these substances is steam or water-gas, which, as we have + seen, issues in prodigious quantities during every eruption. But with the + steam a great number of other volatile materials frequently make their + appearance. Though we have named a number of these at the beginning of + this chapter, it will not be out of order to repeat them here. The chief + among these are the acid gases known as hydrochloric acid, sulphurous + acid, sulphuretted hydrogen, carbonic acid, and boracic acid; and with + these acid gases there issue hydrogen, nitrogen ammonia, the volatile + metals arsenic, antimony, and mercury, and some other substances. These + volatile substances react upon one another, and many new compounds are + thus formed. By the action of sulphurous acid and sulphuretted hydrogen on + each other, the sulphur so common in volcanic districts is separated and + deposited. The hydrochloric acid acts very energetically on the rocks + around the vents, uniting with the iron in them to form the yellow + ferric-chloride, which often coats the rocks round the vent and is usually + mistaken by casual observers for sulphur. + </p> + <p> + Some of the substances emitted by volcanic vents, such as hydrogen and + sulphuretted hydrogen, are inflammable, and when they issue at a high + temperature these gases burst into flame the moment that they come into + contact with the air. Hence, when volcanic fissures are watched at night, + faint lambent flames are frequently seen playing over them, and sometimes + these flames are brilliantly colored, through the presence of small + quantities of certain metallic oxides. Such volcanic flames, however, are + scarcely ever strongly luminous, and the red, glowing light which is + observed over volcanic mountains in eruption is due to quite another + cause. What is usually taken for flame during a volcanic eruption is + simply, as we have before stated, the glowing light of the surface of a + mass of red-hot lava reflected from the cloud of vapor and dust in the + air, much as the lights of a city are reflected from the water vapor of + the atmosphere during a night of fog. + </p> + <p> + Besides the volatile substances which issue from volcanic vents, mingling + with the atmosphere or condensing upon their sides, there are many solid + materials ejected, and these may accumulate around the orifice’s till they + build up mountains of vast dimensions, like Etna, Teneriffe, and + Chimborazo. Some of these solid materials are evidently fragments of the + rock-masses, through which the volcanic fissure has been rent; these + fragments have been carried upwards by the force of the steam-blast and + scattered over the sides of the volcano. But the principal portion of the + solid materials ejected from volcanic orifices consists of matter which + has been extruded from sources far beneath the surface, in highly-heated + and fluid or semi-fluid condition. + </p> + <p> + It is to these materials that the name of “lavas” is properly applied. + Lavas present a general resemblance to the slags and clinkers which are + formed in our furnaces and brick-kilns, and consist, like them, of various + stony substances which have been more or less perfectly fused. When we + come to study the chemical composition and the microscopical structure of + lavas, however, we shall find that there are many respects in which they + differ entirely from these artificial products, they consisting chiefly of + felspar, or of this substance in association with augite or hornblende. In + texture they may be stony, glassy, resin-like, vesicular or cellular and + light in weight, as in the case of pumice or scoria. + </p> + <p> + FLOATING PUMICE + </p> + <p> + The steam and other gases rising through liquid lava are apt to produce + bubbles, yielding a surface froth or foam. This froth varies greatly in + character according to the nature of the material from which it is formed. + In the majority of cases the lavas consist of a mass of crystals floating + in a liquid magma, and the distension of such a mass by the escape of + steam from its midst gives rise to the formation of the rough + cindery-looking material to which the name of “scoria” is applied. But + when the lava contains no ready-formed crystals, but consists entirely of + a glassy substance in a more or less perfect state of fusion, the + liberation of steam gives rise to the formation of the beautiful material + known as “pumice.” Pumice consists of a mass of minute glass bubbles; + these bubbles do not usually, however, retain their globular form, but are + elongated in one direction through the movement of the mass while it is + still in a plastic state. The quantity of this substance ejected is often + enormous. We have seen to what a vast extent it was thrown out from the + crater of Krakatoa. During the year 1878, masses of floating pumice were + reported as existing in the vicinity of the Solomon Isles, and covering + the surface of the sea to such extent that it took ships three days to + force their way through them. Sometimes this substance accumulates in such + quantities along coasts that it is difficult to determine the position of + the shore within a mile or two, as we may land and walk about on the great + floating raft of pumice. Recent deep-sea soundings, carried on in the + Challenger and other vessels, have shown that the bottom of the deepest + portion of the ocean, far away from the land, is covered with volcanic + materials which have been carried through the air or have floated on the + surface of the ocean. + </p> + <p> + Fragments of scoria or pumice may be thrown hundreds or thousands of feet + into the atmosphere, those that fall into the crater and are flung up + again being gradually reduced in size by friction. Thus it is related by + Mr. Poulett Scrope, who watched the Vesuvian eruption of 1822, which + lasted for nearly a month, that during the earlier stages of the outburst + fragments of enormous size were thrown out of the crater, but by constant + re-ejection these were gradually reduced in size, till at last only the + most impalpable dust issued from the vent. This dust filled the + atmosphere, producing in the city of Naples “a darkness that might be + felt.” So excessively finely divided was it, that it penetrated into all + drawers, boxes, and the most closely fastened receptacles, filling them + completely. The fragmentary materials ejected from volcanoes are often + given the name of cinders or ashes. These, however, are terms of + convenience only, and do not properly describe the volcanic material. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes the passages of steam through a mass of molten glass produces + large quantities of a material resembling spun glass. Small particles of + this glass are carried into the air and leave behind them thin, glassy + filaments like a tail. At the volcano of Kilauea in Hawaii, this + substance, as previously stated, is abundantly produced, and is known as + ‘Pele’s Hair’—Pele being the name of the goddess of the mountain. + Birds’ nests are sometimes found composed of this beautiful material. In + recent years an artificial substance similar to this Pele’s hair has been + extensively manufactured by passing jets of steam through the molten slag + of iron-furnaces; it resembles cotton-wool, but is made up of fine threads + of glass, and is employed for the packing of boilers and other purposes. + </p> + <p> + The lava itself, as left in huge deposits upon the surface, assumes + various forms, some crystalline, others glassy. The latter is usually + found in the condition known as obsidian, ordinarily black in color, and + containing few or no crystals. It is brittle, and splits into sharp-edged + or pointed fragments, which were used by primitive peoples for + arrow-heads, knives and other cutting implements. The ancient Mexicans + used bits of it for shaving purposes, it having an edge of razor-like + sharpness. They also used it as the cutting part of their weapons of war. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX. + </h2> + <h3> + The Active Volcanoes of the Earth. + </h3> + <p> + It is not by any means an easy task to frame an estimate of the number of + volcanoes in the world. Volcanoes vary greatly in their dimensions, from + vast mountain masses, rising to a height of nearly 25,000 feet above + sea-level, to mere molehills. They likewise exhibit every possible stage + of development and decay: while some are in a state of chronic active + eruption, others are reduced to the condition of solfataras, or vents + emitting acid vapors, and others again have fallen into a more or less + complete state of ruin through the action of denuding forces. + </p> + <p> + NUMBER OF ACTIVE VOLCANOES + </p> + <p> + Even if we confine our attention to the larger volcanoes, which merit the + name of mountains, and such of these as we have reason to believe to be in + a still active condition, our difficulties will be diminished, but not by + any means removed. Volcanoes may sink into a dormant condition that at + times endures for hundreds or even thousands of years, and then burst + forth into a state of renewed activity; and it is quite impossible, in + many cases, to distinguish between the conditions of dormancy and + extinction. + </p> + <p> + We shall, however, probably be within the limits of truth in stating that + the number of great habitual volcanic vents upon the globe which we have + reason to believe are still in active condition, is somewhere between 300 + and 350. Most of these are marked by more or less considerable mountains, + composed of the materials ejected from them. But if we include mountains + which exhibit the external conical form, crater-like hollows, and other + features of volcanoes, yet concerning the activity of which we have no + record or tradition, the number will fall little, if anything, short of + 1,000. + </p> + <p> + The mountains composed of volcanic materials, but which have lost through + denudation the external form of volcanoes, are still more numerous, and + the smaller temporary openings which are usually subordinate to the + habitual vents that have been active during the periods covered by history + and tradition, must be numbered by thousands. There are still feebler + manifestations of the volcanic forces—such as steam-jets, geysers, + thermal and mineral waters, spouting saline and muddy springs, and mud + volcanoes—that may be reckoned by millions. It is not improbable + that these less powerful manifestations of the volcanic forces to a great + extent make up in number what they want in individual energy; and the + relief which they afford to the imprisoned activities within the earth’s + crust may be almost equal to that which results from the occasional + outbursts at the great habitual volcanic vents. + </p> + <p> + In taking a general survey of the volcanic phenomena of the globe, no + facts come out more strikingly than that of the very unequal distribution, + both of the great volcanoes, and of the minor exhibitions of subterranean + energy. + </p> + <p> + Thus, on the whole of the continent of Europe, there is but one habitual + volcanic vent—that of Vesuvius—and this is situated upon the + shores of the Mediterranean. In the islands of that sea, however there are + no less than six volcanoes: namely, Stromboli, and Vulcano, in the Lipari + Islands; Etna, in Sicily; Graham’s Isle, a submarine volcano, off the + Sicilian coast; and Santorin and Nisyros, in the Aegean Sea. + </p> + <p> + The African continent is at present known to contain about ten active + volcanoes—four on the west coast, and six on the east coast, while + about ten other active volcanoes occur on islands close to the African + coasts. On the continent of Asia, more than twenty active volcanoes are + known or believed to exist, but no less than twelve of these are situated + in the peninsula of Kamchatka. No volcanoes are known to exist in the + Australian continent. + </p> + <p> + The American continent contains a greater number of volcanoes than the + continents of the Old World. There are twenty in North America, + twenty-five in Central America, and thirty-seven in South America. Thus, + taken altogether, there are about one hundred and seventeen volcanoes + situated on the great continental lands of the globe, while nearly twice + as many occur upon the islands scattered over the various oceans. + </p> + <p> + ASIATIC INLAND VOLCANOES + </p> + <p> + Upon examining further into the distribution of the continental volcanoes, + another very interesting fact presents itself. The volcanoes are in almost + every instance situated either close to the coasts of the continent, or at + no great distance from them. There are, indeed, only two exceptions to + this rule. In the great and almost wholly unexplored table-land lying + between Siberia and Tibet four volcanoes are said to exist, and in the + Chinese province of Manchuria several others. More reliable information + is, however, needed concerning these volcanoes. + </p> + <p> + It is a remarkable circumstance that all the oceanic islands which are not + coral-reefs are composed of volcanic rocks; and many of these oceanic + islands, as well as others lying near the shores of the continents, + contain active volcanoes. + </p> + <p> + Through the midst of the Atlantic Ocean runs a ridge, which, by the + soundings of the various exploring vessels sent out in recent years, has + been shown to divide the ocean longitudinally into two basins. Upon this + great ridge, and the spurs proceeding from it, rise numerous mountainous + masses, which constitute the well-known Atlantic islands and groups of + islands. All of these are of volcanic origin, and among them are numerous + active volcanoes. The Island of Jan Mayen contains an active volcano, and + Iceland contains thirteen, and not improbably more; the Azores have six + active volcanoes, the Canaries three; while about eight volcanoes lie off + the west coast of Africa. In the West Indies there are six active + volcanoes; and three submarine volcanoes have been recorded within the + limits of the Atlantic Ocean. Altogether, no less than forty active + volcanoes are situated upon the great submarine ridges which traverse the + Atlantic longitudinally. + </p> + <p> + But along the same line the number of extinct volcanoes is far greater, + and there are not wanting proofs that the volcanoes which are still active + are approaching the condition of extinction. + </p> + <p> + VOLCANOES OF THE PACIFIC + </p> + <p> + If the great medial chain of the Atlantic presents us with an example of a + chain of volcanic mountains verging on extinction, we have in the line of + islands separating the Pacific and Indian Oceans an example of a similar + range of volcanic vents which are in a condition of the greatest activity. + In the peninsula of Kamchatka there are twelve active volcanoes, in the + Aleutian Islands thirty-one, and in the peninsula of Alaska three. The + chain of the Kuriles contains at least ten active volcanoes; the Japanese + Islands and the islands to the south of Japan twenty-five. The great group + of islands lying to the south-east of the Asiatic continent is at the + present time the grandest focus of volcanic activity upon the globe. No + less than fifty active volcanoes occur here. + </p> + <p> + Farther south, the same chain is probably continued by the four active + volcanoes of New Guinea, one or more submarine volcanoes, and several + vents in New Britain, the Solomon Isles, and the New Hebrides, the three + active volcanoes of New Zealand, and possibly by Mount Erebus and Mount + Terror in the Antarctic region. Altogether, no less than 150 active + volcanoes exist in the chain of islands which stretch from Behring’s + Straits down to the Antarctic circle; and if we include the volcanoes on + Indian and Pacific Islands which appear to be situated on lines branching + from this particular band, we shall not be wrong in the assertion that + this great system of volcanic mountains includes at least one half of the + habitually active vents of the globe. In addition to the active vents, + there are here several hundred very perfect volcanic cones, many of which + appear to have recently become extinct, though some of them may be merely + dormant, biding their time. + </p> + <p> + A third series of volcanoes starts from the neighborhood of Behring’s + Straits, and stretches along the whole western coast of the American + continent. This is much less continuous, but nevertheless very important, + and contains, with its branches, nearly a hundred active volcanoes. On the + north this great band is almost united with the one we have already + described by the chain of the Aleutian and Alaska volcanoes. In British + Columbia about the parallel of 60 degrees N. there exist a number of + volcanic mountains, one of which, Mount St. Elias, is believed to be + 18,000 feet in height. Farther south, in the territory of the United + States, a number of grand volcanic mountains exist, some of which are + probably still active, for geysers and other manifestations of volcanic + activity abound. From the southern extremity of the peninsula of + California an almost continuous chain of volcanoes stretches through + Mexico and Guatemala, and from this part of the volcanic band a branch is + given off which passes through the West Indies, and contains the volcanoes + which have so recently given evidence of their vital activity. + </p> + <p> + In South America the line is continued by the active volcanoes of Ecuador, + Bolivia and Chile, but at many intermediate points in the chain of the + Andes extinct volcanoes occur, which to a great extent fill up the gaps in + the series. A small offshoot to the westward passes through the Galapagos + Islands. The great band of volcanoes which stretches through the American + continent is second only in importance, and in the activity of its vents, + to the band which divides the Pacific from the Indian Ocean. + </p> + <p> + The third volcanic band of the globe is that, already spoken of, which + traverses the Atlantic Ocean from north to south. This series of volcanic + mountains is much more broken and interrupted than the other two, and a + greater proportion of its vents are extinct. It attained its condition of + maximum activity during the distant period of the Miocene, and now appears + to be passing into a state of gradual extinction. + </p> + <p> + Beginning in the north with the volcanic rocks of Greenland and Bear + Island, we pass southwards, by way of Jan Mayen, Iceland and the Faroe + Islands, to the Hebrides and the north of Ireland. Thence, by way of the + Azores, the Canaries and the Cape de Verde Islands, with some active + vents, we pass to the ruined volcanoes of St. Paul, Fernando de Noronha, + Ascension, St. Helena, Trinidad and Tristan da Cunha. From this great + Atlantic band two branches proceed to the eastward, one through Central + Europe, where all the vents are now extinct, and the other through the + Mediterranean to Asia Minor, the great majority of the volcanoes along the + latter line being now extinct, though a few are still active. The + volcanoes on the eastern coast of Africa may be regarded as situated on + another branch from this Atlantic volcanic band. The number of active + volcanoes on this Atlantic band and its branches, exclusive of those in + the West Indies, does not exceed fifty. + </p> + <p> + THIAN SHAN AND HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES + </p> + <p> + From what has been said, it will be seen that the volcanoes of the globe + not only usually assume a linear arrangement, but nearly the whole of them + can be shown to be thrown up along three well-marked bands and the + branches proceeding from them. The first and most important of these bands + is nearly 10,000 miles in length, and with its branches contains more than + 150 active volcanoes; the second is 8,000 miles in length, and includes + about 100 active volcanoes; the third is much more broken and interrupted, + extends to a length of nearly 1,000 miles, and contains about 50 active + vents. The volcanoes of the eastern coast of Africa, with Mauritius, + Bourbon, Rodriguez, and the vents along the line of the Red Sea, may be + regarded as forming a fourth and subordinate band. + </p> + <p> + Thus we see that the surface of the globe is covered by a network of + volcanic bands, all of which traverse it in sinuous lines with a general + north-and-south direction, giving off branches which often run for + hundreds of miles, and sometimes appear to form a connection between the + great bands. + </p> + <p> + To this rule of the linear arrangement of the volcanic vents of the globe, + and their accumulation along certain well-marked bands, there are two very + striking exceptions, which we must now proceed to notice. + </p> + <p> + In the very centre of the continent formed by Europe and Asia, the largest + unbroken land-mass of the globe, there rises from the great central + plateau the remarkable volcanoes of the Thian Shan Range. The existence of + these volcanoes, of which only obscure traditional accounts had reached + Europe before the year 1858, appears to be completely established by the + researches of recent Russian and Swedish travelers. Three volcanic vents + appear to exist in this region, and other volcanic phenomena have been + stated to occur in the great plateau of Central Asia, but the existence of + the latter appears to rest on very doubtful evidence. The only accounts + which we have of the eruptions of these Thian Shan volcanoes are contained + in Chinese histories and treatises on geography. + </p> + <p> + The second exceptionally situated volcanic group is that of the Hawaiian + Islands. While the Thian Shan volcanoes rise in the centre of the largest + unbroken land-mass, and stand on the edge of the loftiest and greatest + plateau in the world, the volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands rise in the + northern centre of the largest ocean and from almost the greatest depths + in that ocean. All round the Hawaiian Islands the sea has a depth of from + 2,000 to 3,000 fathoms, and the island-group culminates in several + volcanic cones, which rise to the height of nearly 14,000 feet above the + sea-level. The volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands are unsurpassed in height + and bulk by those of any other part of the globe. + </p> + <p> + With the exception of the two isolated groups of the Thian Shan and the + Hawaiian Islands, nearly all the active volcanoes of the globe are + situated near the limits which separate the great land-and-water-masses of + the globe—that is to say, they occur either on the parts of + continents not far removed from their coast-lines, or on islands in the + ocean not very far distant from the shores. The fact of the general + proximity of volcanoes to the sea is one which has frequently been pointed + out by geographers, and may now be regarded as being thoroughly + established. + </p> + <p> + VOLCANOES PARALLEL TO MOUNTAIN CHAINS + </p> + <p> + Many of the grandest mountain-chains have bands of volcanoes lying + parallel to them. This is strikingly exhibited by the great + mountain-masses which lie on the western side of the American continent. + The Rocky Mountains and the Andes consist of folded and crumpled masses of + altered strata which, by the action of denuding forces, have been carved + into series of ridges and summits. At many points, however, along the + sides of these great chains we find that fissures have been opened and + lines of volcanoes formed, from which enormous quantities of lava have + flowed and covered great tracts of country. + </p> + <p> + This is especially marked in the Snake River plain of Idaho, in the + western United States. In this, and the adjoining regions of Oregon and + Washington, an enormous tract of country has been overflowed by lava in a + late geological period, the surface covered being estimated to have a + larger area than France and Great Britain combined. The Snake River cuts + through it in a series of picturesque gorges and rapids, enabling us to + estimate its thickness, which is considered to average 4000 feet. Looked + at from any point on its surface, one of these lava-plains appears as a + vast level surface, like that of a lake bottom. This uniformity has been + produced either by the lava rolling over a plain or lake bottom, or by the + complete effacement of an original, undulating contour of the ground under + hundreds or thousands of feet of lava in successive sheets. The lava, + rolling up to the base of the mountains, has followed the sinuosities of + their margin, as the waters of a lake follow its promontories and bays. + Similar conditions exist along the Sierra Nevada range of California, and + to some extent placer mining has gone on under immense beds of lava, by a + process of tunneling beneath the volcanic rock. + </p> + <p> + In some localities the volcanoes are of such height and dimensions as to + overlook and dwarf the mountain-ranges by the side of which they lie. Some + of the volcanoes lying parallel to the great American axis appear to be + quite extinct, while others are in full activity. In the Eastern continent + we find still more striking examples of parallelism between great + mountain-chains and the lands along which volcanic activity is exhibited—volcanoes, + active or extinct, following the line of the great east and west chains + which extend through southern Europe and Asia. There are some other + volcanic bands which exhibit a similar parallelism with mountain chains; + but, on the other hand, there are volcanoes between which and the nearest + mountain-axis no such connection can be traced. + </p> + <p> + AREAS OF UPHEAVAL AND SUBSIDENCE + </p> + <p> + There is one other fact concerning the mode of distribution of volcanoes + upon the surface of the globe, to which we must allude. By a study of the + evidences presented by coral-reefs, raised beaches, submerged forests, and + other phenomena of a similar kind, it can be shown that certain wide areas + of the land and of the ocean-floor are at the present time in a state of + subsidence, while other equally large areas are being upheaved. And the + observations of the geologist prove that similar upward and downward + movements of portions of the earth’s crust have been going on through all + geological times. + </p> + <p> + Now, as Mr. Darwin has so well shown in his work on “Coral Reefs,” if we + trace upon a map the areas of the earth’s surface which are undergoing + upheaval and subsidence respectively, we shall find that nearly all the + active volcanoes of the globe are situated upon rising areas and that + volcanic phenomena are conspicuously absent from those parts of the + earth’s crust which can be proved at the present day to be undergoing + depression. + </p> + <p> + The remarkable linear arrangement of volcanic vents has a significance + that is well worthy of fuller consideration. There are facts known which + point to the cause of this state of affairs. It is not uncommon for small + cones of scoriae to be seen following lines on the flanks or at the base + of a great volcanic mountain. These are undoubtedly lines of fissure, + caused by the subterranean forces. In fact, such fissures have been seen + opening on the sides of Mount Etna, in whose bottom could be seen the + glowing lava. Along these fissures, in a few days, scoriae cones appeared; + on one occasion no less than thirty-six in number. + </p> + <p> + It is believed by geologists that the linear systems of volcanoes are + ranged along similar lines of fissure in the earth’s crust—enormous + breaks, extending for thousands of miles, and the result of internal + energies acting through vast periods of time. Along these immense fissures + in the earth’s rock-crust there appear, in place of small scoriae cones, + great volcanoes, built up through the ages by a series of powerful + eruptions, and only ceasing to spout fire themselves when the portion of + the great crack upon which they lie is closed. The greatest of these + fissures is that along the vast sinuous band of volcanoes extending from + near the Arctic circle at Behring’s Straits to the Antarctic circle at + South Victoria Land, not far from half round the earth. It doubtless marks + the line of mighty forces which have been active for millions of years. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI. + </h2> + <h3> + The Famous Vesuvius and the Destruction of Pompeii. + </h3> + <p> + The famous volcano of southern Italy named Vesuvius, which is now so + constantly in eruption, was described by the ancients as a cone-shaped + mountain with a flat top, on which was a deep circular valley filled with + vines and grass, and surrounded by high precipices. A large population + lived on the sides of the mountain, which was covered with beautiful + woods, and there were fine flourishing cities at its foot. So little was + the terrible nature of the valley on the top understood, that in A. D. 72, + Spartacus, a rebellious Roman gladiator, encamped there with some + thousands of fighting men, and the Roman soldiers were let down the + precipices in order to surprise and capture them. + </p> + <p> + There had been earthquakes around the mountain, and one of the cities had + been nearly destroyed; but no one was prepared for what occurred seven + years after the defeat of Spartacus. Suddenly, in the year 79 A. D., a + terrific rush of smoke, steam, and fire belched from the mountain’s + summit; one side of the valley in which Spartacus had encamped was blown + off, and its rocks, with vast quantities of ashes, burning stones, and + sand, were ejected far into the sky. They then spread out like a vast + pall, and fell far and wide. For eight days and nights this went on, and + the enormous quantity of steam sent up, together with the deluge of rain + that fell, produced torrents on the mountain-side, which, carrying onward + the fallen ashes, overwhelmed everything in their way. Sulphurous vapors + filled the air and violent tremblings of the earth were constant. + </p> + <p> + A city six miles off was speedily rendered uninhabitable, and was + destroyed by the falling stones; but two others—Herculaneum and + Pompeii—which already had suffered from the down-pour of ashes, were + gradually filled with a flood of water, sand, and ashes, which came down + the side of the volcano, and covering them entirely. + </p> + <p> + BURIED CITIES EXCAVATED. + </p> + <p> + The difference in ease of excavation is due to the following circumstance. + Herculaneum being several miles nearer the crater, was buried in a far + more consistent substance, seemingly composed of volcanic ashes cemented + by mud; Pompeii, on the contrary, was buried only in ashes and loose + stones. The casts of statues found in Herculaneum show the plastic + character of the material that fell there, which time has hardened to + rock-like consistency. + </p> + <p> + These statues represented Hercules and Cleopatra, and the theatre proved + to be that of the long-lost city of Herculaneum. The site of Pompeii was + not discovered until forty years afterward, but work there proved far + easier than at Herculaneum, and more progress was made in bringing it back + to the light of day. + </p> + <p> + The less solid covering of Pompeii has greatly facilitated the work of + excavation, and a great part of the city has been laid bare. Many of its + public buildings and private residences are now visible, and some whole + streets have been cleared, while a multitude of interesting relics have + been found. Among those are casts of many of the inhabitants, obtained by + pouring liquid plaster into the ash moulds that remained of them. We see + them to-day in the attitude and with the expression of agony and horror + with which death met them more than eighteen centuries ago. + </p> + <p> + In succeeding eruptions much lava was poured out; and in A. D. 472, ashes + were cast over a great part of Europe, so that much fear was caused at + Constantinople. The buried cities were more and more covered up, and it + was not until about A. D. 1700 that, as above stated, the city of + Herculaneum was discovered, the peasants of the vicinity being in the + habit of extracting marble from its ruins. They had also, in the course of + years, found many statues. In consequence, an excavation was ordered by + Charles III, the earliest result being the discovery of the theatre, with + the statues above named. The work of excavation, however, has not + progressed far in this city, on account of its extreme difficulty, though + various excellent specimens of art-work have been discovered, including + the finest examples of mural painting extant from antiquity. The library + was also discovered, 1803 papyri being found. Though these had been + charred to cinder, and were very difficult to unroll and decipher, over + 300 of them have been read. + </p> + <p> + PLINY’S CELEBRATED DESCRIPTION + </p> + <p> + Pliny the Younger, to whom we are indebted for the only contemporary + account of the great eruption under consideration, was at the time of its + occurrence resident with his mother at Misenum, where the Roman fleet lay, + under the command of his uncle, the great author of the “Historia + Naturalis”. His account, contained in two letters to Tacitus (lib. vi. 16, + 20), is not so much a narrative of the eruption, as a record of his + uncle’s singular death, yet it is of great interest as yielding the + impressions of an observer. The translation which follows is adopted from + the very free version of Melmoth, except in one or two places, where it + differs much from the ordinary text. The letters are given entire, though + some parts are rather specimens of style than good examples of + description. + </p> + <p> + “Your request that I should send an account of my uncle’s death, in order + to transmit a more exact relation of it to posterity, deserves my + acknowledgments; for if this accident shall be celebrated by your pen, the + glory of it, I am assured, will be rendered forever illustrious. And, + notwithstanding he perished by a misfortune which, as it involved at the + same time a most beautiful country in ruins, and destroyed so many + populous cities, seems to promise him an everlasting remembrance; + notwithstanding he has himself composed many and lasting works; yet I am + persuaded the mention of him in your immortal works will greatly + contribute to eternize his name. Happy I esteem those to be, whom + Providence has distinguished with the abilities either of doing such + actions as are worthy of being related, or of relating them in a manner + worthy of being read; but doubly happy are they who are blessed with both + these talents; in the number of which my uncle, as his own writings and + your history will prove, may justly be ranked. It is with extreme + willingness, therefore, that I execute your commands; and should, indeed, + have claimed the task if you had not enjoined it. + </p> + <p> + “He was at that time with the fleet under his command at Misenum. On the + 24th of August, about one in the afternoon, my mother desired him to + observe a cloud which appeared of a very unusual size and shape. He had + just returned from taking the benefit of the sun, and, after bathing + himself in cold water, and taking a slight repast, had retired to his + study. He immediately arose, and went out upon an eminence, from whence he + might more distinctly view this very uncommon appearance. It was not at + that distance discernible from what mountain the cloud issued, but it was + found afterward to ascend from Mount Vesuvius. I cannot give a more exact + description of its figure than by comparing it to that of a pine tree, for + it shot up to a great height in the form of a trunk, which extended itself + at the top into a sort of branches; occasioned, I imagine, either by a + sudden gust of air that impelled it, the force of which decreased as it + advanced upwards, or the cloud itself being pressed back again by its own + weight, and expanding in this manner: it appeared sometimes bright, and + sometimes dark and spotted, as it was more or less impregnated with earth + and cinders. + </p> + <p> + “This extraordinary phenomenon excited my uncle’s philosophical curiosity + to take a nearer view of it. He ordered a light vessel to be got ready, + and gave me the liberty, if I thought proper, to attend him. I rather + chose to continue my studies, for, as it happened, he had given me an + employment of that kind. As he was passing out of the house he received + dispatches: the marines at Retina, terrified at the imminent peril (for + the place lay beneath the mountain, and there was no retreat but by + ships), entreated his aid in this extremity. He accordingly changed his + first design, and what he began with a philosophical he pursued with an + heroical turn of mind.” + </p> + <p> + THE VOYAGE TO STABIAE + </p> + <p> + “He ordered the galleys to put to sea, and went himself on board with an + intention of assisting not only Retina but many other places, for the + population is thick on that beautiful coast. When hastening to the place + from whence others fled with the utmost terror, he steered a direct course + to the point of danger, and with so much calmness and presence of mind, as + to be able to make and dictate his observations upon the motion and figure + of that dreadful scene. He was now so nigh the mountain that the cinders, + which grew thicker and hotter the nearer he approached, fell into the + ships, together with pumice-stones, and black pieces of burning rock; they + were in danger of not only being left aground by the sudden retreat of the + sea, but also from the vast fragments which rolled down from the mountain, + and obstructed all the shore. + </p> + <p> + “Here he stopped to consider whether he should return back again; to which + the pilot advised him. ‘Fortune,’ said he, ‘favors the brave; carry me to + Pomponianus.’ Pomponianus was then at Stabiae, separated by a gulf, which + the sea, after several insensible windings, forms upon the shore. He + (Pomponianus) had already sent his baggage on board; for though he was not + at that time in actual danger, yet being within view of it, and indeed + extremely near, if it should in the least increase, he was determined to + put to sea as soon as the wind should change. It was favorable, however, + for carrying my uncle to Pomponianus, whom he found in the greatest + consternation. He embraced him with tenderness, encouraging and exhorting + him to keep up his spirits; and the more to dissipate his fears he + ordered, with an air of unconcern, the baths to be got ready; when, after + having bathed, he sat down to supper with great cheerfulness, or at least + (what is equally heroic) with all the appearance of it. + </p> + <p> + “In the meantime, the eruption from Mount Vesuvius flamed out in several + places with much violence, which the darkness of the night contributed to + render still more visible and dreadful. But my uncle, in order to soothe + the apprehensions of his friend, assured him it was only the burning of + the villages, which the country people had abandoned to the flames; after + this he retired to rest, and it was most certain he was so little + discomposed as to fall into a deep sleep; for, being pretty fat, and + breathing hard, those who attended without actually heard him snore. The + court which led to his apartment being now almost filled with stones and + ashes, if he had continued there any longer it would have been impossible + for him to have made his way out; it was thought proper, therefore, to + awaken him. He got up and went to Pomponianus and the rest of his company, + who were not unconcerned enough to think of going to bed. They consulted + together whether it would be most prudent to trust to the houses, which + now shook from side to side with frequent and violent concussions; or to + fly to the open fields, where the calcined stone and cinders, though light + indeed, yet fell in large showers and threatened destruction. In this + distress they resolved for the fields as the less dangerous situation of + the two—a resolution which, while the rest of the company were + hurried into it by their fears, my uncle embraced upon cool and deliberate + consideration. + </p> + <p> + DEATH OF PLINY THE ELDER + </p> + <p> + “They went out, then, having pillows tied upon their heads with napkins; + and this was their whole defence against the storm of stones that fell + around them. It was now day everywhere else, but there a deeper darkness + prevailed than in the most obscure night; which, however, was in some + degree dissipated by torches and other lights of various kinds. They + thought proper to go down further upon the shore, to observe if they might + safely put out to sea; but they found that the waves still ran extremely + high and boisterous. There my uncle, having drunk a draught or two of cold + water, threw himself down upon a cloth which was spread for him, when + immediately the flames, and a strong smell of sulphur which was the + forerunner of them, dispersed the rest of the company, and obliged him to + rise. He raised himself up with the assistance of two of his servants, and + instantly fell down dead, suffocated, as I conjecture, by some gross and + noxious vapor, having always had weak lungs, and being frequently subject + to a difficulty of breathing. + </p> + <p> + “As soon as it was light again, which was not till the third day after + this melancholy accident, his body was found entire, and without any marks + of violence upon it, exactly in the same posture as that in which he fell, + and looking more like a man asleep than dead. During all this time my + mother and I were at Misenum. But this has no connection with your + history, as your inquiry went no farther than concerning my uncle’s death; + with that, therefore, I will put an end to my letter. Suffer me only to + add, that I have faithfully related to you what I was either an + eye-witness of myself, or received immediately after the accident + happened, and before there was any time to vary the truth. You will choose + out of this narrative such circumstances as shall be most suitable to your + purpose; for there is a great difference between what is proper for a + letter and a history: between writing to a friend and writing to the + public. Farewell.” + </p> + <p> + In this account, which was drawn up some years after the event, from the + recollections of a student eighteen years old, we recognize the continual + earthquakes; the agitated sea with its uplifted bed; the flames and vapors + of an ordinary eruption, probably attended by lava as well as ashes. But + it seems likely that the author’s memory, or rather the information + communicated to him regarding the closing scene of Pliny’s life, was + defective. Flames and sulphurous vapors could hardly be actually present + at Stabiae, ten miles from the centre of the eruption. + </p> + <p> + That lava flowed at all from Vesuvius on this occasion has been usually + denied; chiefly because at Pompeii and Herculaneum the causes of + destruction were different—ashes overwhelmed the former, mud + concreted over the latter. We observe, indeed, phenomena on the shore near + Torre del Greco which seem to require the belief that currents of lava had + been solidified there at some period before the construction of certain + walls and floors, and other works of Roman date. In the Oxford Museum, + among the specimens of lava to which the dates are assigned, is one + referred to A. D. 79, but there is no mode of proving it to have belonged + to the eruption of that date. + </p> + <p> + PLINY’S SECOND LETTER + </p> + <p> + A second letter from Pliny to Tacitus (Epist. 20) was required to satisfy + the curiosity of that historian; especially as regards the events which + happened under the eyes of his friend. Here it is according to Melmoth: + </p> + <p> + “The letter which, in compliance with your request, I wrote to you + concerning the death of my uncle, has raised, it seems, your curiosity to + know what terrors and danger attended me while I continued at Misenum: for + there, I think, the account in my former letter broke off. + </p> + <p> + ‘Though my shocked soul recoils, my tongue shall tell.’ + </p> + <p> + “My uncle having left us, I pursued the studies which prevented my going + with him till it was time to bathe. After which I went to supper, and from + thence to bed, where my sleep was greatly broken and disturbed. There had + been, for many days before, some shocks of an earthquake, which the less + surprised us as they are extremely frequent in Campania; but they were so + particularly violent that night, that they not only shook everything about + us, but seemed, indeed, to threaten total destruction. My mother flew to + my chamber, where she found me rising in order to awaken her. We went out + into a small court belonging to the house, which separated the sea from + the buildings. As I was at that time but eighteen years of age, I know not + whether I should call my behavior, in this dangerous juncture, courage or + rashness; but I took up Livy, and amused myself with turning over that + author, and even making extracts from him, as if all about me had been in + full security. While we were in this posture, a friend of my uncle’s, who + was just come from Spain to pay him a visit, joined us; and observing me + sitting with my mother with a book in my hand, greatly condemned her + calmness at the same time that he reproved me for my careless security. + Nevertheless, I still went on with my author. + </p> + <p> + “Though it was now morning, the light was exceedingly faint and languid; + the buildings all around us tottered; and, though we stood upon open + ground, yet as the place was narrow and confined, there was no remaining + there without certain and great danger: we therefore resolved to quit the + town. The people followed us in the utmost consternation, and, as to a + mind distracted with terror every suggestion seems more prudent than its + own, pressed in great crowds about us in our way out. + </p> + <p> + “Being got to a convenient distance from the houses, we stood still, in + the midst of a most dangerous and dreadful scene. The chariots which we + had ordered to be drawn out were so agitated backwards and forwards, + though upon the most level ground, that we could not keep them steady, + even by supporting them with large stones. The sea seemed to roll back + upon itself, and to be driven from its banks by the convulsive motion of + the earth; it is certain at least that the shore was considerably + enlarged, and many sea animals were left upon it. On the other side a + black and dreadful cloud, bursting with an igneous serpentine vapor, + darted out a long train of fire, resembling flashes of lightning, but much + larger. + </p> + <p> + FEAR VERSUS COMPOSURE + </p> + <p> + “Upon this the Spanish friend whom I have mentioned, addressed himself to + my mother and me with great warmth and earnestness; ‘If your brother and + your uncle,’ said he, ‘is safe, he certainly wishes you to be so too; but + if he has perished, it was his desire, no doubt, that you might both + survive him: why therefore do you delay your escape a moment?’ We could + never think of our own safety, we said, while we were uncertain of his. + Hereupon our friend left us, and withdrew with the utmost precipitation. + Soon afterward, the cloud seemed to descend, and cover the whole ocean; as + it certainly did the island of Capreae, and the promontory of Misenum. My + mother strongly conjured me to make my escape at any rate, which, as I was + young, I might easily do; as for herself, she said, her age and corpulency + rendered all attempts of that sort impossible. However, she would + willingly meet death, if she could have the satisfaction of seeing that + she was not the occasion of mine. But I absolutely refused to leave her, + and taking her by the hand, I led her on; she complied with great + reluctance, and not without many reproaches to herself for retarding my + flight. + </p> + <p> + “The ashes now began to fall upon us, though in no great quantity. I + turned my head and observed behind us a thick smoke, which came rolling + after us like a torrent. I proposed, while we yet had any light, to turn + out of the high road lest she should be pressed to death in the dark by + the crowd that followed us. We had scarce stepped out of the path when + darkness overspread us, not like that of a cloudy night, or when there is + no moon, but of a room when it is all shut up and all the lights are + extinct. Nothing then was to be heard but the shrieks of women, the + screams of children and the cries of men; some calling for their children, + others for their parents, others for their husbands, and only + distinguishing each other by their voices; one lamenting his own fate, + another that of his family; some wishing to die from the very fear of + dying; some lifting their hands to the gods; but the greater part + imagining that the last and eternal night was come, which was to destroy + the gods and the world together. Among them were some who augmented the + real terrors by imaginary ones, and made the frighted multitude believe + that Misenum was actually in flames. + </p> + <p> + “At length a glimmering light appeared, which we imagined to be rather the + forerunner of an approaching burst of flames, as in truth it was, than the + return of day. However, the fire fell at distance from us; then again we + were immersed in thick darkness, and a heavy shower of ashes rained upon + us, which we were obliged every now and then to shake off, otherwise we + should have been crushed and buried in the heap. + </p> + <p> + “I might boast that, during all this scene of horror, not a sigh or + expression of fear escaped me, had not my support been founded in that + miserable, though strong, consolation that all mankind were involved in + the same calamity, and that I imagined I was perishing with the world + itself! At last this dreadful darkness was dissipated by degrees, like a + cloud of smoke; the real day returned, and soon the sun appeared, though + very faintly, and as when an eclipse is coming on. Every object that + presented itself to our eyes (which were extremely weakened) seemed + changed, being covered over with white ashes, as with a deep snow. We + returned to Misenum, where we refreshed ourselves as well as we could, and + passed an anxious night between hope and fear, for the earthquake still + continued, while several greatly excited people ran up and down, + heightening their own and their friends’ calamities by terrible + predictions. However, my mother and I, notwithstanding the danger we had + passed and that which still threatened us, had no thoughts of leaving the + place till we should receive some account from my uncle. + </p> + <p> + “And now you will read this narrative without any view of inserting it in + your history, of which it is by no means worthy; and, indeed, you must + impute it to your own request if it shall not even deserve the trouble of + a letter. Farewell!” + </p> + <p> + DION CASSIUS ON THE ERUPTION + </p> + <p> + The story told by Pliny is the only one upon which we can rely. Dion + Cassius, the historian, who wrote more than a century later, does not + hesitate to use his imagination, telling us that Pompeii was buried under + showers of ashes “while all the people were sitting in the theatre.” This + statement has been effectively made use of by Bulwer, in his “Last Days of + Pompeii.” In this he pictures for us a gladiatorial combat in the arena, + with thousands of deeply interested spectators occupying the surrounding + seats. The novelist works his story up to a thrilling climax in which the + volcano plays a leading part. + </p> + <p> + This is all very well as a vivid piece of fiction, but it does not accord + with fact, since Dion Cassius was undoubtedly incorrect in his statement. + We now know from the evidence furnished by the excavations that none of + the people were destroyed in the theatres, and, indeed, that there were + very few who did not escape from both cities. It is very likely that many + of them returned and dug down for the most valued treasures in their + buried habitations. Dion Cassius may have obtained the material for his + accounts from the traditions of the descendants of survivors, and if so he + shows how terrible must have been the impression made upon their minds. He + assures us that during the eruption a multitude of men of superhuman + nature appeared, sometimes on the mountain and sometimes in the environs, + that stones and smoke were thrown out, the sun was hidden, and then the + giants seemed to rise again, while the sounds of trumpets were heard. + </p> + <p> + LAKE AVERNUS + </p> + <p> + Not far from Vesuvius lay the famous Lake Avernus, whose name was long a + popular synonym for the infernal regions. The lake is harmless to-day, but + its reputation indicates that it was not always so. There is every reason + to believe that it hides the outlet of an extinct volcano, and that long + after the volcano ceased to be active it emitted gases as fatal to animal + life as those suffocating vapors which annihilated all the cattle on the + Island of Lancerote, in the Canaries, in the year 1730. Its name signifies + “birdless,” indicating that its ascending vapors were fatal to all birds + that attempted to fly above its surface. + </p> + <p> + In the superstition of the Middle Ages Vesuvius assumed the character + which had before been given to Avernus, and was regarded as the mouth of + hell. Cardinal Damiano, in a letter to Pope Nicholas II., written about + the year 1060 tells the story of how a priest, who had left his mother ill + at Beneventum, went on his homeward way to Naples past the crater of + Vesuvius, and heard issuing therefrom the voice of his mother in great + agony. He afterward found that her death coincided exactly with the time + at which he had heard her voice. + </p> + <p> + A trip to the summit of Vesuvius is one of the principal attractions for + strangers who are visiting Naples. There is a fascination about that awful + slayer of cities which few can resist, and no less attractive is the city + of Pompeii, now largely laid bare after being buried for eighteen + centuries. We are indebted to Henry Haynie for the following interesting + description: “Once seen, it will never be forgotten. It is full of + suggestions. It kindles emotions that are worth the kindling, and brings + on dreams that are worth the dreaming. Of the three places overwhelmed, + Herculaneum, Pompeii and Stabiae, the last scarcely repays excavation in + one sense, and the first in another; but to watch the diggers at Pompeii + is fascinating, even when there is no reasonable expectation of a find. + Herculaneum was buried with lava, or rather with tufa, and it is so very + hard that the expense of uncovering of only a small part of that city has + been very great. + </p> + <p> + HOW POMPEII IMPRESSES ITS VISITORS + </p> + <p> + “Pompeii was smothered in ashes, however, and most of it is uncovered now. + But while there is much that is fascinating, and all of it is instructive, + there is nothing grand or awe-inspiring in the ruins of Pompeii. No + visitor stands breathless as in the great hall of Karnak or in the once + dreadful Coliseum at Rome, or dreams with sensuous delight as before the + Jasmine Court at Agra. + </p> + <p> + “The weirdness of the scene possesses us as a haunted chamber might. We + have before us the narrow lanes, paved with tufa, in which Roman wagon + wheels have worn deep ruts. We cross streets on stepping-stones which + sandaled feet ages ago polished. We see the wine shops with empty jars, + counters stained with liquor, stone mills where the wheat was ground, and + the very ovens in which bread was baked more than eighteen centuries ago. + ‘Welcome’ is offered us at one silent, broken doorway; at another we are + warned to ‘Beware of the dog!’ The painted figures,—some of them so + artistic and rich in colors that pictures of them are disbelieved,—the + mosaic pavements, the empty fountains, the altars and household gods, the + marble pillars and the small gardens are there just as the owners left + them. Some of the walls are scribbled over by the small boys of Pompeii in + strange characters which mock modern erudition. In places we read the + advertisements of gladiatorial shows, never to come off, the names of + candidates for legislative office who were never to sit. There is nothing + like this elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + “The value of Pompeii to those classic students who would understand, not + the speech only, but the life and the every-day habits, of the ancient + world, is too high for reckoning. Its inestimable evidence may be seen in + the fact that any high-school boy can draw the plan of a Roman house, + while ripest scholars hesitate on the very threshold of a Greek dwelling. + This is because no Hellenic Pompeii has yet been discovered, but thanks to + the silent city close to the beautiful Bay of Naples, the Latin house is + known from ostium to porticus, from the front door to the back garden + wall. + </p> + <p> + STREETS AND HOUSES OF POMPEII + </p> + <p> + “The streets of Pompeii must have had a charm unapproached by those of any + city now in existence. The stores, indeed, were wretched little dens. Two + or three of them commonly occupied the front of a house on either side of + the entrance, the ostium; but when the door lay open, as was usually the + case, a passerby could look into the atrium, prettily decorated and hung + with rich stuffs. The sunshine entered through an aperture in the roof, + and shone on the waters of the impluvium, the mosaic floor, the altar of + the household gods and the flowers around the fountain. + </p> + <p> + “As the life of the Pompeiians was all outdoors, their pretty homes stood + open always. There was indeed a curtain betwixt the atrium and the + peristyle, but it was drawn only when the master gave a banquet. Thus a + wayfarer in the street could see, beyond the hall described and its busy + servants, the white columns of the peristyle, with creepers trained about + them, flowers all around, and jets of water playing through pipes which + are still in place. In many cases the garden itself could be observed + between the pillars of the further gallery, and rich paintings on the wall + beyond that. + </p> + <p> + “But how far removed those little palaces of Pompeii were from our notion + of well-being is scarcely to be understood by one who has not seen them. + It is a question strange in all points of view where the family slept in + the houses, nearly all of which had no second story. In the most graceful + villas the three to five sleeping chambers round the atrium and four round + the peristyle were rather ornamental cupboards than aught else. One did + not differ from another, and if these were devoted to the household the + slaves, male and female, must have slept on the floor outside. The master, + his family and his guest used these small, dark rooms, which were + apparently without such common luxuries as we expect in the humblest home. + All their furniture could hardly have been more than a bed and a + footstool; but it should be remembered that the public bath was a daily + amusement. The kitchen of each villa certainly was not furnished with such + ingenuity, expense or thought as the stories of Roman gormandising would + have led us to expect. In the house of the Aedile—so called from the + fact that ‘Pansam Aed.’ is inscribed in red characters by the doorway—the + cook seems to have been employed in frying eggs at the moment when + increasing danger put him to flight. His range, four partitions of brick, + was very small; a knife, a strainer, a pan lay by the fire just as they + fell from the slave’s hand.” + </p> + <p> + VALUE OF THE DISCOVERY OF POMPEII + </p> + <p> + This description strongly presents to us the principal value of the + discovery of Pompeii. Interesting as are the numerous works of art found + in its habitations, and important as is their bearing upon some branches + of the art of the ancient world, this cannot compare in interest with the + flood of light which is here thrown on ancient life in all its details, + enabling us to picture to ourselves the manners and habits of life of a + cultivated and flourishing population at the beginning of the Christian + era, to an extent which no amount of study of ancient history could yield. + </p> + <p> + Looking upon the work of the volcano as essentially destructive, as we + naturally do, we have here a valuable example of its power as a + preservative agent; and it is certainly singular that it is to a volcano + we owe much of what we know concerning the cities, dwellings and domestic + life of the people of the Roman Empire. + </p> + <p> + It would be very fortunate for students of antiquity if similar disasters + had happened to cities in other ancient civilized lands, however + unfortunate it might have been to their inhabitants. But doubtless we are + better off without knowledge gained from ruins thus produced. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII. + </h2> + <h3> + Eruptions of Vesuvius, Etna and Stromboli. + </h3> + <p> + Mount Vesuvius is of especial interest as being the only active volcano on + the continent of Europe—all others of that region being on the + islands of the Mediterranean—and for the famous ancient eruption + described in the last chapter. Before this it had borne the reputation of + being extinct, but since then it has frequently shown that its fires have + not burned out, and has on several occasions given a vigorous display of + its powers. + </p> + <p> + During the fifteen hundred years succeeding the destructive event + described eruptions were of occasional occurrence, though of no great + magnitude. But throughout the long intervals when Vesuvius was at rest it + was noted that Etna and Ischia were more or less disturbed. + </p> + <p> + THE BIRTH OF MONTE NUOVO + </p> + <p> + In 1538 a startling evidence was given that there was no decline of energy + in the volcanic system of Southern Italy. This was the sudden birth of the + mountain still known as Monte Nuovo, or New Mountain, which was thrown up + in the Campania near Avernus, on the spot formerly occupied by the Lucrine + Lake. + </p> + <p> + For about two years prior to this event the district had been disturbed by + earthquakes, which on September 27 and 28, 1538, became almost continuous. + The low shore was slightly elevated, so that the sea retreated, leaving + bare a strip about two hundred feet in width. The surface cracked, steam + escaped, and at last, early on the morning of the 29th, a greater rent was + made, from which were vomited furiously “smoke, fire, stones and mud + composed of ashes, making at the time of its opening a noise like the + loudest thunder.” + </p> + <p> + The ejected material in less than twelve hours built the hill which has + lasted substantially in the same form to our day. It is a noteworthy fact + that since the formation of Monte Nuovo there has been no volcanic + disturbance in any part of the Neapolitan district except in Vesuvius, + which for five centuries previous had remained largely at rest. + </p> + <p> + LAVA FROM VESUVIUS + </p> + <p> + The first recognised appearance of lava in the eruptions of Vesuvius was + in the violent eruption of 1036. This was succeeded at intervals by five + other outbreaks, none of them of great energy. After 1500 the crater + became completely quiet, the whole mountain in time being grown over with + luxuriant vegetation, while by the next century the interior of the crater + became green with shrubbery, indicating that no injurious gases were + escaping. + </p> + <p> + This was sleep, not death. In 1631 the awakening came in an eruption of + terrible violence. Almost in a moment the green mantle of woodland and + shrubbery was torn away and death and destruction left where peace and + safety had seemed assured. + </p> + <p> + Seven streams of lava poured from the crater and swept rapidly down the + mountain side, leaving ruin along their paths. Resina, Granasello and + Torre del Greco, three villages that had grown up during the period of + quiescence, were more or less overwhelmed by the molten lava. Great + torrents of hot water also poured out, adding to the work of desolation. + It was estimated that eighteen thousand of the inhabitants were killed. + </p> + <p> + What made the horror all the greater was a frightful error of judgment, + similar to that of the Governor of Martinique at St. Pierre. The Governor + of Torre del Greco had refused to be warned in time, and prevented the + people from making their escape until it was too late. Not until the lava + had actually reached the walls was the order for departure given. Before + the order could be acted upon the molten streams burst through the walls + into the crowded streets, and overwhelmed the vast majority of the + inhabitants. + </p> + <p> + In this violent paroxysm the whole top of the mountain is said to have + been swept away, the new crater which took the place of the old one being + greatly lowered. From that date Vesuvius has never been at rest for any + long interval, and eruptions of some degree of violence have been rarely + more than a few years apart. Of its various later manifestations of energy + we select for description that of 1767, of which an interesting account by + a careful observer is extant. + </p> + <p> + GREAT ERUPTION OF 1767 + </p> + <p> + From the 10th of December, 1766, to March, 1767, Vesuvius was quiet; then + it began to throw up stones from time to time. In April the throws were + more frequent, and at night the red glare grew stronger on the cloudy + columns which hung over the crater. These repeated throws of cinders, + ashes and pumice-stones so much increased the small cone of eruption which + had been left in the centre of the flat crateral space that its top became + visible at a distance. + </p> + <p> + On the 7th of August there issued a small stream of lava from a breach in + the side of a small cone; the lava gradually filled the space between the + cone and the crateral edge; on the 12th of September it overflowed the + crater, and ran down the mountain. Stones were ejected which took ten + seconds in their fall, from which it may be computed that the height which + the stones reached was 1,600 feet. Padre Torre, a great observer of + Vesuvius, says they went up above a thousand feet. The lava ceased on the + 18th of October, but at 8 A. M. on the 19th it rushed out at a different + place, after volleys of stones had been thrown to an immense height, and + the huge traditional pine-tree of smoke reappeared. On this occasion that + vast phantom extended its menacing shadow over Capri, at a distance of + twenty-eight miles from Vesuvius. + </p> + <p> + The lava at first came out of a mouth about one hundred yards below the + crater, on the side toward Monte Somma. While occupied in viewing this + current, the observer heard a violent noise within the mountain; saw it + split open at the distance of a quarter of a mile, and saw from the new + mouth a mountain of liquid fire shoot up many feet, and then, like a + torrent, roll on toward him. The earth shook; stones fell thick around + him; dense clouds of ashes darkened the air; loud thunders came from the + mountain top, and he took to precipitate flight. The Padre’s account is + too lively and instructive for his own words to be omitted. + </p> + <p> + PADRE TORRE’S NARRATIVE + </p> + <p> + “I was making my observations upon the lava, which had already, from the + spot where it first broke out, reached the valley, when, on a sudden, + about noon, I heard a violent noise within the mountain, and at a spot + about a quarter of a mile off the place where I stood the mountain split; + and with much noise, from this new mouth, a fountain of liquid fire shot + up many feet high, and then like a torrent rolled on directly towards us. + The earth shook at the same time that a volley of stones fell thick upon + us; in an instant clouds of black smoke and ashes caused almost a total + darkness; the explosions from the top of the mountain were much louder + than any thunder I ever heard, and the smell of the sulphur was very + offensive. My guide, alarmed, took to his heels; and I must confess that I + was not at my ease. I followed close, and we ran near three miles without + stopping; as the earth continued to shake under our feet, I was + apprehensive of the opening of a fresh mouth which might have cut off our + retreat. + </p> + <p> + “I also feared that the violent explosions would detach some of the rocks + off the mountain of Somma, under which we were obliged to pass; besides, + the pumice-stones, falling upon us like hail, were of such a size as to + cause a disagreeable sensation in the part upon which they fell. After + having taken breath, as the earth trembled greatly I thought it most + prudent to leave the mountain and return to my villa, where I found my + family in great alarm at the continual and violent explosions of the + volcano, which shook our house to its very foundation, the doors and + windows swinging upon their hinges. + </p> + <p> + “About two of the clock in the afternoon (19th) another lava stream forced + its way out of the same place from whence came the lava of last year, so + that the conflagration was soon as great on this side of the mountain as + on the other which I had just left. I observed on my way to Naples, which + was in less than two hours after I had left the mountain, that the lava + had actually covered three miles of the very road through which we had + retreated. This river of lava in the Atrio del Cavallo was sixty or + seventy feet deep, and in some places nearly two miles broad. Besides the + explosions, which were frequent, there was a continued subterranean and + violent rumbling noise, which lasted five hours in the night,—supposed + to arise from contact of the lava with rain-water lodged in cavities + within. The whole neighborhood was shaken violently; Portici and Naples + were in the extremity of alarm; the churches were filled; the streets were + thronged with processions of saints, and various ceremonies were performed + to quell the fury of the mountain. + </p> + <p> + “In the night of the 20th, the occasion being critical, the prisoners in + the public jail attempted to escape, and the mob set fire to the gates of + the residence of the Cardinal Archbishop because he refused to bring out + the relics of St. Januarius. The 21st was a quieter day, but the whole + violence of the eruption returned on the 22d, at 10 A. M., with the same + thundering noise, but more violent and alarming. Ashes fell in abundance + in the streets of Naples, covering the housetops and balconies an inch + deep. Ships at sea, twenty leagues from Naples, were covered with them. + </p> + <p> + “In the midst of these horrors, the mob, growing tumultuous and impatient, + obliged the Cardinal to bring out the head of St. Januarius, at the + extremity of Naples, toward Vesuvius; and it is well attested here that + the eruption ceased the moment the saint came in sight of the mountain. It + is true the noise ceased about that time after having lasted five hours, + as it had done the preceding days. + </p> + <p> + “On the 23d the lava still ran, but on the 24th it ceased; but smoke + continued. On the 25th there rose a vast column of black smoke, giving out + much forked lightning with thunder, in a sky quite clear except for the + smoke of the volcano. On the 26th smoke continued, but on the 27th the + eruption came to an end.” + </p> + <p> + This eruption was also described by Sir William Hamilton, who continued to + keep a close watch on the movements of the volcano for many years. The + next outbreak of especial violence took place in 1779, when what seemed to + the eye a column of fire ascended two miles high, while cinder fragments + fell far and wide, destroying the hopes of harvest throughout a wide + district. They fell in abundance thirty miles distant, and the dust of the + explosion was carried a hundred miles away. + </p> + <p> + In 1793 the crater became active again, and in 1794 after a period of + short tranquillity or comparative inaction, the mountain again became + agitated, and one of the most formidable eruptions known in the history of + Vesuvius began. It was in some respects unlike many others, being somewhat + peculiar as to the place of its outburst, the temperature of the lava, and + the course of the current. Breislak, an Italian geologist, observed the + characteristic phenomena with the eye of science, and his account supplies + many interesting facts. + </p> + <p> + BREISLAK ON THE ERUPTION OF 1794 + </p> + <p> + Breislak remarked certain changes in the character of the earth’s motions + during this six hours’ eruption, which led him to some particular + conjecture of the cause. At the beginning the trembling was continual, and + accompanied by a hollow noise, similar to that occasioned by a river + falling into a subterranean cavern. The lava, at the time of its being + disgorged, from the impetuous and uninterrupted manner in which it was + ejected, causing it to strike violently against the walls of the vent, + occasioned a continual oscillation of the mountain. Toward the middle of + the night this vibratory motion ceased, and was succeeded by distant + shocks. The fluid mass, diminished in quantity, now pressed less violently + against the walls of the aperture, and no longer issued in a continual and + gushing stream, but only at intervals, when the interior fermentation + elevated the boiling matter above the mouth. About 4 A. M. the shocks + began to be less numerous, and the intervals between them rendered their + force and duration more perceptible. + </p> + <p> + During this tremendous eruption at the base of the Vesuvian cone, and the + fearful earthquakes which accompanied it, the summit was tranquil. The sky + was serene, the stars were brilliant, and only over Vesuvius hung a thick, + dark smoke-cloud, lighted up into an auroral arch by the glare of a stream + of fire more than two miles long, and more than a quarter of a mile broad. + The sea was calm, and reflected the red glare; while from the source of + the lava came continual jets of uprushing incandescent stones. Nearer to + view, Torre del Greco in flames, and clouds of black smoke, with falling + houses, presented a dark and tragical foreground, heightened by the + subterranean thunder of the mountain, and the groans and lamentations of + fifteen thousand ruined men, women and children. + </p> + <p> + The heavy clouds of ashes which were thrown out on this occasion gathered + in the early morning into a mighty shadow over Naples and the + neighborhood; the sun rose pale and obscure, and a long, dim twilight + reigned afterward. + </p> + <p> + Such were the phenomena on the western side of Vesuvius. They were matched + by others on the eastern aspect, not visible at Naples, except by + reflection of their light in the atmosphere. The lava on this side flowed + eastward, along a route often traversed by lava, by the broken crest of + the Cognolo and the valley of Sorienta. The extreme length to which this + current reached was not less than an Italian mile. The cubic content was + estimated to be half that already assigned to the western currents. Taken + together they amounted to 20,744,445 cubic metres, or 2,804,440 cubic + fathoms; the constitution of the lava being the same in each, both + springing from one deep-seated reservoir of fluid rock. + </p> + <p> + The eruption of lava ceased on the 16th, and then followed heavy + discharges of ashes, violent shocks of earthquakes, thunder and lightning + in the columns of vapors and ashes, and finally heavy rains, lasting till + the 3d of July. The barometer during all the eruption was steady. + </p> + <p> + Breislak made an approximate calculation of the quantity of ashes which + fell on Vesuvius during this great eruption, and states the result as + equal to what would cover a circular area 6 kilometres (about 3 1/2 + English miles) in radius, and 39 centimetres (about 15 inches) in depth. + </p> + <p> + STRANGE EFFECTS + </p> + <p> + Among the notable things which attended this eruption, it is recorded that + in Torre del Greco metallic and other substances exposed to the current + were variously affected. Silver was melted, glass became porcelain, iron + swelled to four times its volume and lost its texture. Brass was + decomposed, and its constituent copper crystallized in cubic and + octahedral forms aggregated in beautiful branches. Zinc was sometimes + turned to blende. During the eruption, the lip of the crater toward Bosco + Tre Case on the south east, fell in, or was thrown off, and the height of + that part was reduced 426 feet. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th, the sea was found in a boiling state 100 yards off the new + promontory made by the lava of Torre del Greco, and no boat could remain + near it on account of the melting of the pitch in her bottom. For nearly a + month after the eruption vast quantities of fine white ashes, mixed with + volumes of steam, were thrown out from the crater; the clouds thus + generated were condensed into heavy rain, and large tracts of the Vesuvian + slopes were deluged with volcanic mud. It filled ravines, such as Fosso + Grande, and concreted and hardened there into pumiceous tufa—a very + instructive phenomenon. + </p> + <p> + Immense injury was done to the rich territory of Somma, Ottajano and Bosco + by heavy rains, which swept along cinders, broke up the road and bridges, + and overturned trees and houses for the space of fifteen days. + </p> + <p> + There were few years during the nineteenth century in which Vesuvius did + not show symptoms of its internal fires, and at intervals it manifested + much activity, though not equaling the terrible eruptions of its past + history. The severest eruptions in that century were those of 1871 and + 1876. In the first a sudden emission of lava killed twenty spectators at + the mouth of the crater, and only spent its fury after San Sebastian and + Massa had been well nigh annihilated. Fragments of rock were thrown up to + the height of 4,000 feet, and the explosions were so violent that the + whole countryside fled panic stricken to Naples. The activity of the + volcano, accompanied by distinct shocks of earthquake, lasted for a week. + </p> + <p> + In 1876, for three weeks together, lava streamed down the side of + Vesuvius, sweeping away the village of Cercolo and running nearly to the + sea at Ponte Maddaloni. There were then formed ten small craters within + the greater one. But these were united by a later eruption in 1888, and + pressure from beneath formed a vast cone where they had been. + </p> + <p> + HARDIHOOD OF THE PEOPLE + </p> + <p> + It may seem strange that so dangerous a neighborhood should be inhabited. + But so it is. Though Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae lie buried beneath + the mud and ashes belched out of the mouth of Vesuvius, the villages of + Portici and Revina, Torre del Greco and Torre del Annunziata have taken + their place, and a large population, cheerful and prosperous, flourishes + around the disturbed mountain and over the district of which it is the + somewhat untrustworthy safety-valve. + </p> + <p> + It is thus that man, in his eagerness to cultivate all available parts of + the earth, dares the most frightful perils and ventures into the most + threatening situations, seeking to snatch the means of life from the very + jaws of death. The danger is soon forgotten, the need of cultivation of + the ground is ever pressing, and no threats of peril seem capable of + restraining the activity of man for many years. Though the proposition of + abandoning the Island of Martinique has been seriously considered, the + chances are that, before many years have passed, a cheerful and busy + population will be at work again on the flanks of Mont Pelee. + </p> + <p> + MOUNT ETNA + </p> + <p> + On the eastern coast of the Island of Sicily, and not far from the sea, + rises in solitary grandeur Mount Etna, the largest and highest of European + volcanoes. Its height above the level of the sea is a little over 10,870 + feet, considerably above the limit of perpetual snow. It accordingly + presents the striking phenomenon of volcanic vapors ascending from a + snow-clad summit. The base of the mountain is eighty-seven miles in + circumference, and nearly circular; but there is a wide additional extent + all around overspread by its lava. The lower portions of the mountain are + exceedingly fertile, and richly adorned with corn-fields, vineyards, + olive-groves and orchards. Above this region are extensive forests, + chiefly of oak, chestnut, and pine, with here and there clumps of + cork-trees and beech. In this forest region are grassy glades, which + afford rich pasture to numerous flocks. Above the forest lies a volcanic + desert, covered with black lava and slag. Out of this region, which is + comparatively flat rises the principal cone, about 1,100 feet in height, + having on its summit the crater, whence sulphurous vapors are continually + evolved. + </p> + <p> + The great height of Etna has exerted a remarkable influence on its general + conformation: for the volcanic forces have rarely been of sufficient + energy to throw the lava quite up to the crater at the summit. The + consequence has been, that numerous subsidiary craters and cones have been + formed all around the flanks of the mountain, so that it has become rather + a cluster of volcanoes than a single volcanic cone. + </p> + <p> + The eruptions of this mountain have been numerous, records of them + extending back to several centuries before the Christian era, while + unrecorded ones doubtless took place much further back. After the + beginning of the Christian era, and more especially after the breaking + forth of Vesuvius in 79 A. D., Etna enjoyed longer intervals of repose. + Its eruptions since that time have nevertheless been numerous—more + especially during the intervals when Vesuvius was inactive—there + being a sort of alternation between the periods of great activity of the + two mountains; although there are not a few instances of their having been + both in action at the same time. + </p> + <p> + SIMILARITY IN ETNA’S ERUPTIONS + </p> + <p> + There is a great similarity in the character of the eruptions of Etna. + Earthquakes presage the outburst, loud explosions follow, rifts and bocche + del fuoco open in the sides of the mountain; smoke, sand, ashes and + scoriae are discharged, the action localizes itself in one or more + craters, cinders are thrown up and accumulate around the crater and cone, + ultimately lava rises and frequently breaks down one side of the cone + where the resistance is least; then the eruption is at an end. + </p> + <p> + Smyth says: “The symptoms which precede an eruption are generally + irregular clouds of smoke, ferilli or volcanic lightnings, hollow + intonations and local earthquakes that often alarm the surrounding country + as far as Messina, and have given the whole province the name of Val + Demone, as being the abode of infernal spirits. These agitations increase + until the vast cauldron becomes surcharged with the fused minerals, when, + if the convulsion is not sufficiently powerful to force them from the + great crater (which, from its great altitude and the weight of the candent + matter, requires an uncommon effort), they explode through that part of + the side which offers the least resistance with a grand and terrific + effect, throwing red-hot stones and flakes of fire to an incredible + height, and spreading ignited cinders and ashes in every direction.” + </p> + <p> + After the eruption of ashes, lava frequently follows, sometimes rising to + the top of the cone of cinders, at others disrupting it on the least + resisting side. When the lava has reached the base of the cone it begins + to flow down the mountain, and, being then in a very fluid state, it moves + with great velocity. As it cools, the sides and surface begin to harden, + its velocity decreases, and after several days it moves only a few yards + an hour. The internal portions, however, part slowly with their heat, and + months after the eruption clouds of steam arise from the black and + externally cold lava-beds after rain; which, having penetrated through the + cracks, has found its way to the heated mass within. + </p> + <p> + THE ERUPTION OF 1669 + </p> + <p> + The most memorable of the eruptions of Etna was that which elevated the + double cone of Monte Rossi and destroyed a large part of the city of + Catania. It happened in the year 1669, and was preceded by an earthquake, + which overthrew the town of Nicolosi, situated ten miles inland from + Catania, and about twenty miles from the top of Etna. The eruption began + with the sudden opening of an enormous fissure, extending from a little + way above Nicolosi to within about a mile of the top of the principal + cone, its length being twelve miles, its average breadth six feet, its + depth unknown. + </p> + <p> + We have a more detailed account of this eruption than of any preceding + one, as it was observed by men of science from various countries. The + account from which we select is that of Alfonso Borelli, Professor of + Mathematics in Catania. + </p> + <p> + From the fissure above mentioned, he says, there came a bright light. Six + mouths opened in a line with it and emitted vast columns of smoke, + accompanied by loud bellowings which could be heard forty miles off. + Towards the close of the day a crater opened about a mile below the + others, which ejected red-hot stones to a considerable distance, and + afterward sand and ashes which covered the country for a distance of sixty + miles. The new crater soon vomited forth a torrent of lava which presented + a front of two miles; it encircled Monpilieri, and afterward flowed + towards Belpasso, a town of 8,000 inhabitants, which was speedily + destroyed. Seven mouths of fire opened around the new crater, and in three + days united with it, forming one large crater 800 feet in diameter. All + this time the torrent of lava continued to descend, it destroying the town + of Mascalucia on the 23d of March. On the same day the crater cast up + great quantities of sand, ashes and scoriae, and formed above itself the + great double-coned hill now called Monte Rossi, from the red color of the + ashes of which it is mainly composed. + </p> + <p> + VILLAGES AND CITIES BURIED + </p> + <p> + On the 25th very violent earthquakes occurred, and the cone above the + great central crater was shaken down into the crater for the fifth time + since the first century A. D. The original current of lava divided into + three streams, one of which destroyed San Pietro, the second Camporotondo, + and the third the lands about Mascalucia and afterward the village of + Misterbianco. Fourteen villages were altogether destroyed, and the lava + flowed toward Catania. At Albanelli, two miles from the city, it + undermined a hill covered with cornfields and carried it forward a + considerable distance. A vineyard was also seen to be floating on its + fiery surface. When the lava reached the walls of Catania, it accumulated + without progression until it rose to the top of the wall, 60 feet in + height, and it then fell over in a fiery cascade and overwhelmed a part of + the city. Another portion of the same stream threw down 120 feet of the + wall and flowed into the city. + </p> + <p> + On the 23d of April the lava reached the sea, which it entered as a stream + 600 yards broad and 40 feet deep. The stream had moved at the rate of + thirteen miles in twenty days, but as it cooled it moved less quickly, and + during the last twenty-three days of its course, it advanced only two + miles. On reaching the sea the water, of course, began to boil violently, + and clouds of steam arose, carrying with them particles of scoriae. + Towards the end of April the stream on the west side of Catania, which had + appeared to be consolidated, again burst forth, and flowed into the garden + of the Benedictine Monastery of San Niccola, and then branched off into + the city. Attempts were made to build walls to arrest its progress. + </p> + <p> + An attempt of another kind was made by a gentleman of Catania, named + Pappalardo, who took fifty men with him, having previously provided them + with skins for protection from the intense heat and with crowbars to + effect an opening in the lava. They pierced the solid outer crust of + solidified lava, and a rivulet of the molten interior immediately gushed + out and flowed in the direction of Paterno, whereupon 500 men of that + town, alarmed for its safety, took up arms and caused Pappalardo and his + men to desist. The lava did not altogether stop for four months, and two + years after it had ceased to flow it was found to be red hot beneath the + surface. Even eight years after the eruption quantities of steam escaped + from the lava after a shower of rain. + </p> + <p> + THE STONES EJECTED + </p> + <p> + The stones which were ejected from the crater during this eruption were + often of considerable magnitude, and Borelli calculated that the diameter + of one which he saw was 50 feet; it was thrown to a distance of a mile, + and as it fell it penetrated the earth to a depth of 23 feet. The volume + of lava emitted during the eruption amounted to many millions of cubic + feet. Ferara considers that the length of the stream was at least fifteen + miles, while its average width was between two and three miles, so that it + covered at least forty square miles of surface. + </p> + <p> + Among the towns overflowed by this great eruption was Mompilieri. + Thirty-five years afterward, in 1704, an excavation was made on the site + of the principal church of this place, and at the depth of thirty-five + feet the workmen came upon the gate, which was adorned with three statues. + From under an arch which had been formed by the lava, one of these + statues, with a bell and some coins, were extracted in good preservation. + This fact is remarkable; for in a subsequent eruption, which happened in + 1766, a hill about fifty feet in height, being surrounded on either side + by two streams of lava, was in a quarter of an hour swept along by the + current. The latter event may be explained by supposing that the hill in + question was cavernous in its structure, and that the lava, penetrating + into the cavities, forced asunder their walls, and so detached the + superincumbent mass from its supports. + </p> + <p> + It is not by its streams of fire alone that Etna ravages the valleys and + plains at its base. It sometimes also deluges them with great floods of + water. On the 2d of March, 1755, two streams of lava, issuing from the + highest crater, were at once precipitated on an enormous mass of very deep + snow, which then clothed the summit. These fiery currents ran through the + snow to a distance of three miles, melting it as they flowed. The + consequence was, that a tremendous torrent of water rushed down the sides + of the mountain, carrying with it vast quantities of sand, volcanic + cinders and blocks of lava, with which it overspread the flanks of the + mountain and the plains beneath, which it devastated in its course. + </p> + <p> + The volume of water was estimated at 16,000,000 cubic feet, it forming a + channel two miles broad and in some places thirty-four feet deep, and + flowing at the rate of two-thirds of a mile in a minute. All the winter’s + snow on the mountain could not have yielded such a flood, and Lyell + considered that it melted older layers of ice which had been preserved + under a covering of volcanic dust. + </p> + <p> + ETNA IN 1819 + </p> + <p> + Another great eruption took place in 1819, which presented some + peculiarities. Near the point whence the highest stream of lava issued in + 1811, there were opened three large mouths, which, with loud explosions, + threw up hot cinders and sand, illuminated by a strong glare from beneath. + Shortly afterwards there was opened, a little lower down, another mouth, + from which a similar eruption took place; and still farther down there + soon appeared a fifth, whence there flowed a torrent of lava which rapidly + spread itself over the Val del Bove. During the first forty-eight hours it + flowed nearly four miles, when it received a great accession. The three + original mouths became united into one large crater, from which, as well + as from the other two mouths below, there poured forth a vastly augmented + torrent of lava, which rushed with great impetuosity down the same valley. + </p> + <p> + During its progress over this gentle slope, it acquired the usual crust of + hardened slag. It directed its course towards that point at which Val del + Bove opens into the narrow ravine beneath it—there being between the + two a deep and almost perpendicular precipice. Arrived at this point, the + lava-torrent leaped over the precipice in a vast cascade, and with a + thundering noise, arising chiefly from the crashing and breaking up of the + solid crust, which was in a great measure pounded to atoms by the fall; it + throwing up such vast clouds of dust as to awaken an alarm that a fresh + eruption had begun at this place, which is within the wooded region. + </p> + <p> + A very violent eruption, which lasted more than nine months, commenced on + the 21st of August, 1852. It was first witnessed by a party of English + tourists, who were ascending the mountain from Nicolosi in order to see + the sunrise from the summit. As they approached the Casa Inglesi the + crater commenced to give forth ashes and flames of fire. In a narrow + defile they were met by a violent hurricane, which overthrew both the + mules and their riders, and urged them toward the precipices of the Val + del Bove. They sheltered themselves beneath some masses of lava, when + suddenly an earthquake shook the mountain, and their mules in terror fled + away. As day approached they returned on foot to Nicolosi, fortunately + without having sustained injury. In the course of the night many bocche + del fuoco (small lava vents) opened in that part of the Val del Bove + called the Bazo di Trifoglietto, a great fissure opened at the base of the + Giannicola Grande, and a crater was thrown up from which for seventeen + days showers of sand and scoriae were ejected. + </p> + <p> + EFFECT OF THE ERUPTION + </p> + <p> + During the next day a quantity of lava flowed down the Val del Bove, + branching off so that one stream advanced to the foot of Monte Finocchio, + and the other to Monte Calanna. Afterwards it flowed towards Zaffarana, + and devastated a large tract of wooded region. Four days later a second + crater was formed near the first, from which lava was emitted, together + with sand and scoriae, which caused cones to arise around the craters. The + lava moved but slowly, and towards the end of August it came to a stand, + only a quarter of a mile from Zaffarana. + </p> + <p> + On the second of September, Gemellaro ascended Monte Finocchio in the Val + del Bove in order to witness the outburst. He states that the hill was + violently agitated, like a ship at sea. The surface of the Val del Bove + appeared like a molten lake; scoriae were thrown up from the craters to a + great height, and loud explosions were heard at frequent intervals. The + eruption continued to increase in violence. On October 6 two new mouths + opened in the Val del Bove, emitting lava which flowed towards the valley + of Calanna, and fell over the Salto della Giumenta, a precipice nearly 200 + feet deep. The noise which it produced was like that of a clash of + metallic masses. The eruption continued with abated violence during the + early months of 1853, and it did not finally cease till May 27. The entire + mass of lava ejected is estimated to have been equal to an area six miles + long by two miles broad, with an average depth of about twelve feet. + </p> + <p> + This eruption was one of the grandest of all the known eruptions of Etna. + During its outflow more than 2,000,000,000 cubic feet of molten lava was + spread out over a space of three square miles. There have been several + eruptions since its date, but none of marked prominence, though the + mountain is rarely quiescent for any lengthened period. + </p> + <p> + THE LIPARI VOLCANOES + </p> + <p> + South-eastward of Ischia, between Calabria and Sicily, the Lipari Islands + arrest attention for the volcanic phenomena they present. On one of these + is Mount Vulcano, or Volcano, from which all this class of mountains is + named. At present the best known of the Lipari volcanoes is Stromboli, + which consists of a single mountain, having a very obtuse conical form. It + has on one side of it several small craters, of which only one is at + present in a state of activity. + </p> + <p> + The total height of the mountain is about 2000 feet, and the principal + crater is situated at about two-thirds of the height. Stromboli is one of + the most active volcanoes in the world. It is mentioned as being in a + state of activity by several writers before the Christian era, and the + commencement of its operations extends into the past beyond the limits of + tradition. Since history began its action has never wholly ceased, + although it may have varied in intensity from time to time. + </p> + <p> + It has been observed that the violence of its eruptive force has a certain + dependence on the weather—being always most intense when the + barometer is lowest. From the position of the crater, it is possible to + ascend the mountain and look down upon it from above. Even when viewed in + this manner, it presents a very striking appearance. While there is an + uninterrupted continuance of small explosions, there is a frequent + succession of more violent eruptions, at intervals varying in length from + seven to fifteen minutes. + </p> + <p> + HOFFMAN AT STROMBOLI + </p> + <p> + Several eminent observers have approached quite close to the crater, and + examined it narrowly. One of these was M. Hoffman, who visited it in 1828. + </p> + <p> + This eminent geologist, while having his legs held by his companions, + stretched his head over the precipice, and, looking right down into the + mouth of one of the vents of the crater immediately under him, watched the + play of liquid lava within it. Its surface resembled molten silver, and + was constantly rising and falling at regular intervals. A bubble of white + vapor rose and escaped, with a decrepitating noise, at each ascent of the + lava—tossing up red-hot fragments of scoria, which continued dancing + up and down with a sort of rhythmic play upon the surface. At intervals of + fifteen minutes or so, there was a pause in these movements. Then followed + a loud report, while the ground trembled, and there rose to the surface of + the lava an immense bubble of vapor. This, bursting with a crackling + noise, threw out to the height of about 1200 feet large quantities of + red-hot stones and scoriae, which, describing parabolic curves, fell in a + fiery, shower all around. After another brief repose, the more moderate + action was resumed as before. + </p> + <p> + Lipari, a neighboring volcano, was formerly more active than Stromboli, + though for centuries past it has been in a state of complete quiescence. + The Island of Volcano lies south of Lipari. Its crater was active before + the Christian era, and still emits sulphurous and other vapors. At present + its main office is to serve as a sulphur mine. Thus the peak which gives + title to all fire-breathing mountains has become a servant to man. So are + the mighty fallen! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIII. + </h2> + <h3> + Skaptar Jokull and Hecla, the Great Icelandic Volcanoes. + </h3> + <p> + The far-northern island of Iceland, on the verge of the frozen Arctic + realm, is one of the most volcanic countries in the world, whether we + regard the number of volcanoes concentrated in so small a space, or the + extraordinary violence of their eruptions. Of volcanic mountains there are + no less than twenty which have been active during historical times. + Skaptar in the north, and Hecla in the south, being much the best known. + In all, twenty-three eruptions are on record. + </p> + <p> + Iceland’s volcanoes rival Mount Aetna in height and magnitude, their + action has been more continuous and intense, and the range of volcanic + products is far greater than in Sicily. The latter island, indeed, is not + one-tenth of volcanic origin, while the whole of Iceland is due to the + work of subterranean forces. It is entirely made up of volcanic rocks, and + has seemingly been built up during the ages from the depths of the seas. + It is reported, indeed, that a new island, the work of volcanic forces, + appeared opposite Mount Hecla in 1563; but this statement is open to + doubt. + </p> + <p> + VOLCANOES IN ICELAND + </p> + <p> + The eruptions of the volcanoes in Iceland have been amongst the most + terrible of those carefully recorded. The cold climate of the island and + the height of the mountains produce vast quantities of snow and ice, which + cover the volcanoes and fill up the cracks and valleys in their sides. + When, therefore, an eruption commences, the intense heat of the boiling + lava, and of the steam which rushes forth from the crater, makes the whole + mountain hot, and vast masses of ice, great fields of snow, and deluges of + water roll down the hill-sides into the plains. The lava pours from the + top and from cracks in the side of the mountain, or is ejected hundreds of + feet, to fall amongst the ice and snow; and the great masses of red-hot + stone cast forth, accompanied by cinders and fine ashes, splash into the + roaring torrent, which tears up rocks in its course and devastates the + surrounding country for miles. + </p> + <p> + DREADFUL FLOODS + </p> + <p> + An eruption of Kotlugja, in 1860, was accompanied by dreadful floods. It + began with a number of earthquakes, which shook the surrounding country. + Then a dark columnar cloud of vapor was seen to rise by day from the + mountain, and by night balls of fire (volcanic bombs) and red-hot cinders + to the height of 24,000 feet (nearly five miles), which were seen at a + distance of 180 miles. Deluges of water rushed from the heights, bearing + along whole fields of ice and rocky fragments of every size, some vomited + from the volcano, but in great part torn from the flanks of the mountain + itself and carried to the sea, there to add considerably to the coastline + after devastating the intervening country. The fountain of volcanic bombs + consisted of masses of lava, containing gases which exploded and produced + a loud sound, which was said to have been heard at a distance of 100 + miles. The size of the bombs, and the height to which they must have + reached, were very great. But the most remarkable of the historical + eruptions in Iceland were those of Skaptar Jokull in 1783, and of Hecla in + 1845. Of these an extended description is worthy of being given. + </p> + <p> + Of these two memorable eruptions, that of Skaptar Jokull began on the 11th + of June, 1783. It was preceded by a long series of earthquakes, which had + become exceedingly violent immediately before the eruption. On the 8th, + volcanic vapors were emitted from the summit of the mountain, and on the + 11th immense torrents of lava began to be poured forth from numerous + mouths. These torrents united to form a large stream, which, flowing down + into the river Skapta, not only dried it up, but completely filled the + vast gorge through which the river had held its course. This gorge, 200 + feet in breadth, and from 400 to 600 feet in depth, the lava filled so + entirely as to overflow to a considerable extent the fields on either + side. On issuing from this ravine, the lava flowed into a deep lake which + lay in the course of the river. Here it was arrested for a while; but it + ultimately filled the bed of the lake altogether—either drying up + its waters, or chasing them before it into the lower part of the river’s + course. Still forced onward by the accumulation of molten lava from + behind, the stream resumed its advance, till it reached some ancient + volcanic rocks which were full of caverns. Into these it entered, and + where it could not eat its way by melting the old rock, it forced a + passage by shivering the solid mass and throwing its broken fragments into + the air to a height of 150 feet. + </p> + <p> + A TORRENT OF LAVA + </p> + <p> + On the 18th of June there opened above the first mouth a second of large + dimensions, whence poured another immense torrent of lava, which flowed + with great rapidity over the solidified surface of the first stream, and + ultimately combined with it to form a more formidable main current. When + this fresh stream reached the fiery lake, which had filled the lower + portion of the valley of the Skapta, a portion of it was forced up the + channel of that river towards the foot of the hill whence it takes its + rise. After pursuing its course for several days, the main body of this + stream reached the edge of a great waterfall called Stapafoss, which + plunged into a deep abyss. Displacing the water, the lava here leaped over + the precipice, and formed a great cataract of fire. After this, it filled + the channel of the river, though extending itself in breadth far beyond + it, and followed it until it reached the sea. + </p> + <p> + ENORMOUS QUANTITY OF LAVA + </p> + <p> + The 3rd of August brought fresh accessions to the flood of lava still + pouring from the mountain. There being no room in the channel, now filled + by the former lurid stream, which had pursued a northwesterly course, the + fresh lava was forced to take a new direction towards the southeast, where + it entered the bed of another river with a barbaric name. Here it pursued + a course similar to that which flowed through the channel of the Skapta, + filling up the deep gorges, and then spreading itself out into great fiery + lakes over the plains. + </p> + <p> + The eruptions of lava from the mountain continued, with some short + intervals, for two years, and so enormous was the quantity poured forth + during this period that, according to a careful estimate which has been + made, the whole together would form a mass equal to that of Mont Blanc. Of + the two streams, the greater was fifty, the less forty, miles in length. + The Skapta branch attained on the plains a breadth varying from twelve to + fifteen miles—that of the other was only about half as much. Each of + the currents had an average depth of 100 feet, but in the deep gorges it + was no less than 600 feet. Even as late as 1794 vapors continued to rise + from these great streams, and the water contained in the numerous fissures + formed in their crust was hot. + </p> + <p> + The devastation directly wrought by the lava currents themselves was not + the whole of the evils they brought upon unfortunate Iceland and its + inhabitants. Partly owing to the sudden melting of the snows and glaciers + of the mountain, partly owing to the stoppage of the river courses, + immense floods of water deluged the country in the neighborhood, + destroying many villages and a large amount of agricultural and other + property. Twenty villages were overwhelmed by the lava currents, while the + ashes thrown out during the eruption covered the whole island and the + surface of the sea for miles around its shores. On several occasions the + ashes were drifted by the winds over considerable parts of the European + continent, obscuring the sun and giving the sky a gray and gloomy aspect. + In certain respects they reproduced the phenomena of the explosion of + Mount Krakatoa, which, singularly, occurred just a century later, in 1883. + The strange red sunset phenomena of the latter were reproduced by this + Icelandic event of the eighteenth century. + </p> + <p> + Out of the 50,000 persons who then inhabited Iceland, 9,336 perished, + together with 11,460 head of cattle, 190,480 sheep and 28,000 horses. This + dreadful destruction of life was caused partly by the direct action of the + lava currents, partly by the noxious vapors they emitted, partly by the + floods of water, partly by the destruction of the herbage by the falling + ashes, and lastly in consequence of the desertion of the coasts by the + fish, which formed a large portion of the food of the people. + </p> + <p> + ERUPTION OF MOUNT HECLA + </p> + <p> + After this frightful eruption, no serious volcanic disturbance took place + in Iceland until 1845, when Mount Hecla again became disastrously active. + Mount Hecla has been the most frequent in its eruptions of any of the + Icelandic volcanoes. Previous to 1845 there had been twenty-two recorded + eruptions of this mountain, since the discovery of Iceland in the ninth + century; while from all the other volcanoes in the island there had been + only twenty during the same period. Hecla has more than once remained in + activity for six years at a time—a circumstance that has rendered it + the best known of the volcanoes of this region. + </p> + <p> + LATER OUTBREAKS + </p> + <p> + After enjoying a long rest of seventy-nine years, this volcano burst again + into violent activity in the beginning of September, 1845. The first + inkling of this eruption was conveyed to the British Islands by a fall of + volcanic ashes in the Orkneys, which occurred on the night of September + 2nd during a violent storm. This palpable hint was soon confirmed by + direct intelligence from Copenhagen. On the 1st of September a severe + earthquake, followed the same night by fearful subterranean noises, + alarmed the inhabitants and gave warning of what was to come. About noon + the next day, with a dreadful crash, there opened in the sides of the + volcano two new mouths, whence two great streams of glowing lava poured + forth. They fortunately flowed down the northern and northwestern sides of + the mountain, where the low grounds are mere barren heaths, affording a + scanty pasture for a few sheep. These were driven before the fiery stream, + but several of them were burnt before they could escape. The whole + mountain was enveloped in clouds of volcanic ashes and vapors. The rivers + near the lava currents became so hot as to kill the fish, and to be + impassable even on horseback. + </p> + <p> + About a fortnight later there was a fresh eruption, of greater violence, + which lasted twenty-two hours, and was accompanied by detonations so loud + as to be heard over the whole island. Two new craters were formed, one on + the southern, the other on the eastern slope of the cone. The lava issuing + from these craters flowed to a distance of more than twenty-two miles. At + about two miles from its source the fiery stream was a mile wide, and from + 40 to 50 feet deep. It destroyed a large extent of fine pasture and many + cattle. Nearly a month later, on the 15th of October, a fresh flood of + lava burst from the southern crater, and soon heaped up a mass at the foot + of the mountain from 40 to 60 feet in height, three great columns of + vapor, dust and ashes rising at the same time from the three new craters + of the volcano. The mountain continued in a state of greater or less + activity during most of the next year; and even as late as the month of + October, 1846, after a brief pause, it began again with renewed vehemence. + The volumes of dust, ashes and vapor, thrown up from the craters, and + brightly illuminated by the glowing lava beneath, assumed the appearance + of flames, and ascended to an immense height. + </p> + <p> + ELECTRIC PHENOMENA + </p> + <p> + Among the stones tossed out of the craters was one large mass of pumice + weighing nearly half a ton, which was carried to a distance of between + four and five miles. The rivers were flooded by the melting of ice and + snow which had accumulated on the mountain. The greatest mischief wrought + by these successive eruptions was the destruction of the pasturages, which + were for the most part covered with volcanic ashes. Even where left + exposed, the herbage acquired a poisonous taint which proved fatal to the + cattle, inducing among them a peculiar murrain. Fortunately, owing to the + nature of the district through which the lava passed, there was on this + occasion no loss of human life. + </p> + <p> + The Icelandic volcanoes are remarkable for the electric phenomena which + they produce in the atmosphere. Violent thunder-storms, with showers of + rain and hail, are frequent accompaniments of volcanic eruptions + everywhere; but owing to the coldness and dryness of the air into which + the vapors from the Icelandic volcanoes ascend, their condensation is so + sudden and violent that great quantities of electricity are developed. + Thunder-storms accompanied by the most vivid lightnings are the result. + Humboldt mentions in his “Cosmos” that, during an eruption of Kotlugja, + one of the southern Icelandic volcanoes, the lightning from the cloud of + volcanic vapor killed eleven horses and two men (Cosmos i. 223). Great + displays of the aurora borealis usually accompany the volcanic eruptions + of this island—doubtless resulting from the quantity of electricity + imparted to the higher atmosphere by the condensation of the ascending + vapors. On the 18th of August, 1783, while the great eruption of Skaptar + Jokull was in progress, an immense fire-ball passed over England and the + European continent as far as Rome. This ball which was estimated to have + had a diameter exceeding half a mile, is supposed to have been of + electrical origin, and due to the high state of electric tension in the + atmosphere over Iceland at that time. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIV. + </h2> + <h3> + Volcanoes of the Philippines and Other Pacific Islands. + </h3> + <p> + We cannot do better than open this chapter with an account of the work of + volcanoes in the mountain-girdled East Indian island of Java. This large + and fertile tropical island has a large native population, and many + European settlers are employed in cultivating spices, coffee and woods. + The island is rather more than 600 miles long, and it is not 150 miles + broad in any part; and this narrow shape is produced by a chain of + volcanoes which runs along it. There is scarcely any other region in the + world where volcanoes are so numerous, even in the East, where the volcano + is a very common product of nature. Some of the volcanoes of Java are + constantly in eruption, while others are inactive. + </p> + <p> + One of their number, Galung Gung, was previous to 1822 covered from top to + bottom with a dense forest; around it were populous villages. The mountain + was high; there was a slight hollow on its top—a basin-like valley, + carpeted with the softest sward; brooks rippled down the hillside through + the forests, and, joining their silvery streams, flowed on through + beautiful valleys into the distant sea. In the month of July, 1822, there + were signs of an approaching disturbance; this tranquil peacefulness was + at an end; one of the rivers became muddy, and its waters grew hot. + </p> + <p> + In October, without any warning, a most terrific eruption occurred. A loud + explosion was heard; the earth shook, and immense columns of hot water, + boiling mud mixed with burning brimstone, ashes and stones, were hurled + upwards from the mountain top like a waterspout, and with such wonderful + force that large quantities fell at a distance of forty miles. Every + valley near the mountain became filled with burning torrents; the rivers, + swollen with hot water and mud, overflowed their banks, and swept away the + escaping villagers; and the bodies of cattle, wild beasts, and birds were + carried down the flooded stream. + </p> + <p> + ERUPTION OF GALUNG GUNG + </p> + <p> + A space of twenty-four miles between the mountain and a river forty miles + distant was covered to such a depth with blue mud, that people were buried + in their houses, and not a trace of the numerous villages and plantations + was visible. The boiling mud and cinders were cast forth with such + violence from the crater, that while many distant villages were utterly + destroyed and buried, others much nearer the volcano were scarcely + injured; and all this was done in five short hours. + </p> + <p> + Four days afterwards a second eruption occurred more violent than the + first, and hot water and mud were cast forth with masses of slag like the + rock called basalt some of which fell seven miles off. A violent + earthquake shook the whole district, and the top of the mountain fell in, + and so did one of its sides, leaving a gaping chasm. Hills appeared where + there had been level land before, and the rivers changed their courses, + drowning in one night 2,000 people. At some distance from the mountain a + river runs through a large town, and the first intimation the inhabitants + had of all this horrible destruction was the news that the bodies of men + and the carcases of stags, rhinoceroses, tigers, and other animals, were + rushing along to the sea. No less than 114 villages were destroyed, and + above 4,000 persons were killed by this terrible catastrophe. + </p> + <p> + Fifty years before this eruption, Mount Papandayang, one of the highest + burning mountains of Java, was constantly throwing out steam and smoke, + but as no harm was done, the natives continued to live on its sides. + Suddenly this enormous mountain fell in, and left a gap fifteen miles long + and six broad. Forty villages were destroyed, some being carried down and + others overwhelmed by mud and burning lava. No less than 2,957 people + perished, with vast numbers of cattle; moreover, most of the coffee + plantations in the neighboring districts were destroyed. + </p> + <p> + Even more terrible was the eruption of Mount Salek, another of the + volcanoes of Java. The burning of the mountain was seen 100 miles away, + while the thunders of its convulsions and the tremblings of the earth + reached the same distance. Seven hills, at whose base ran a river—crowded + with dead buffaloes, deer, apes, tigers, and crocodiles—slipped down + and became a level plain. River-courses were changed, forests were burnt + up, and the whole face of the country was completely altered. + </p> + <p> + Later volcanic eruptions in Java include that of 1843, when Mount Guntur + flung out sand and ashes estimated at the vast total of thirty million + tons, and those of 1849 and 1872 when Mount Merapi, a very active volcano, + covered a great extent of country with stones and ashes, and ruined the + coffee plantations of the neighboring districts. + </p> + <p> + We have said nothing concerning the most terrible explosion of all, that + of the volcanic island of Krakatoa, off the Javan coast. This event was so + phenomenal as to deserve a chapter of its own, for which we reserve it. + </p> + <p> + The United States, as one result of its recent acquisition of island + dominions, has added largely to its wealth in volcanic mountains. The + famous Hawaiian craters, far the greatest in the world, now belong to our + national estate, and the Philippine Islands contain various others, of + less importance, yet some of which have proved very destructive. A + description of those of the Island of Luzon, which are the most active in + the archipelago, is here sub-joined. + </p> + <p> + THE LUZON VOLCANOES. + </p> + <p> + Volcanoes have played an important part in the formation of the Philippine + Islands and have left traces of their former activity in all directions. + Most of them, however, have long been dead and silent, only a few of the + once numerous group being now active. Of these there are three of + importance in the southern region of Luzon—Taal, Bulusan and Mayon + or Albay. + </p> + <p> + The last named of these is the largest and most active of the existing + volcanoes. In form it is of marvellous grace and beauty, forming a perfect + cone, about fifty miles in circuit at base and rising to a height of 8,900 + feet. It is one of the most prominent landmarks to navigators in the + island. From its crater streams upward a constant smoke, accompanied at + times by flame, while from its depths issue subterranean sounds, often + heard at a distance of many leagues. The whole surrounding country is + marked by evidences of old eruptions. + </p> + <p> + This mountain, in 1767, sent up a cone of flame of forty feet in diameter + at base, for ten days, and for two months a wide stream of lava poured + from its crater. A month later there gushed forth great floods of water, + which filled the rivers to overflow, doing widespread damage to the + neighboring plantations. But its greatest and most destructive eruption + took place in 1812, the year of the great eruption of the St. Vincent + volcano. On this fatal occasion several towns were destroyed and no less + than 12,000 people lost their lives. The debris flung forth from the + crater were so abundant that deposits deep enough to bury the tallest + trees were formed near the mountain. In 1867 another disastrous explosion + took place, and still another in 1888. A disaster different in kind and + cause occurred in 1876, when a terrible tropical storm burst upon the + mountain. The floods of rain swept from its sides the loose volcanic + material, and brought destruction to the neighboring country, more than + six thousand houses being ruined by the rushing flood. + </p> + <p> + BULUSAN AND TAAL + </p> + <p> + Bulusan, a volcano on the southern extremity of the island, resembles + Vesuvius in shape. For many years it remained dormant, but in 1852 smoke + began to issue from its crater. In some respects the most interesting of + these three volcanoes is that of Taal, which lies almost due south of + Manila and about forty-five miles distant, on a small island in the middle + of a large lake, known as Bombom or Bongbong. A remarkable feature of this + volcanic mountain is that it is probably the lowest in the world, its + height being only 850 feet above sea level. There are doubtful traditions + that Lake Bombom, a hundred square miles in extent, was formed by a + terrible eruption in 1700, by which a lofty mountain 8000 or 9000 feet + high, was destroyed. The vast deposits of porous tufa in the surrounding + country are certainly evidences of former great eruptions from Mount Taal. + </p> + <p> + The crater of this volcano is an immense, cup-shaped depression, a mile or + more in diameter and about 800 feet deep. When recently visited by + Professor Worcester, during his travels in these islands, he found it to + contain three boiling lakelets of strangely-colored water, one being of a + dirty brown hue, a second intensely yellow in tint, and the third of a + brilliant emerald green. The mountain still steams and fumes, as if too + actively at work below to be at rest above. In past times it has shown the + forces at play in its depths by breaking at times into frightful activity. + Of the various explosions on record, the three most violent were those of + 1716, 1749, and 1754. In the last-named year the earth for miles round + quaked with the convulsive throes of the deeply disturbed mountain, and + vast quantities of volcanic dust were hurled high into the air, sufficient + to make it dark at midday for many leagues around. The roofs of distant + Manila were covered with volcanic dust and ashes. Molten lava also poured + from the crater and flowed into the lake, which boiled with the intense + heat, while great showers of stones and ashes fell into its waters. + </p> + <p> + VOLCANOES IN THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS + </p> + <p> + Extinct volcanoes are numerous in Luzon, and there are smoking cones in + the north, and also in the Babuyanes Islands still farther north. + Volcanoes also exist in several of the other islands. On Negros is the + active peak of Malaspina, and on Camiguin, an island about ninety miles to + the southeast, a new volcano broke out in 1876. The large island of + Mindanao has three volcanoes, of which Cottabato was in eruption in 1856 + and is still active at intervals. Apo, the largest of the three, estimated + to be 10,312 feet high, has three summits, within which lies the great + crater, now extinct and filled with water. + </p> + <p> + In evidence of former volcanic activity are the abundant deposits of + sulphur on the island of Leyte, the hot springs in various localities, and + the earthquakes which occasionally bring death and destruction. Of the + many of these on record, the most destructive was in 1863, when 400 people + were killed and 2,000 injured, while many buildings were wrecked. Another + in 1880 wrought great destruction in Manila and elsewhere, though without + loss of life. An earthquake in Mindanao in 1675 opened a passage to the + sea, and a vast plain emerged. These convulsions of the earth affect the + form and elevation of buildings, which are rarely more than two stories + high and lightly built, while translucent sea-shells replace glass in + their windows. + </p> + <p> + While Java is the most prolific in volcanoes of the islands of the Malayan + Archipelago, other islands of the group possess active cones, including + Sumatra, Bali, Amboyna, Banda and others. In Sanguir, an island north of + Celebes, is a volcanic mountain from which there was a destructive + eruption in 1856. The country was devastated with lava, stones and + volcanic ashes, ruining a wide district and killing nearly 3,000 of the + inhabitants. Mount Madrian in one of the Spice Islands, was rent in twain + by a fierce eruption in 1646, and since then has remained two distinct + mountains. It became active again in 1862, after two centuries of repose, + and caused great loss of life and property. Sorea, a small island of the + same group, forming but a single volcanic mountain, had an eruption in + 1693, the cone crumbling gradually till a vast crater was formed, filled + with liquid lava and occupying nearly half the island. This lake of fire + increased in size by the same process till in the end it took possession + of the island and forced all the inhabitants to flee to more hospitable + shores. + </p> + <p> + THE GREAT ERUPTION OF TOMBORO + </p> + <p> + But of the East Indian Islands Sumbawa, lying east of Java, contains the + most formidable volcano—one indeed scarcely without a rival in the + world. This is named Tomboro. Of its various eruptions the most furious on + record was that of 1815. This, as we are told by Sir Stamford Raffles, far + exceeded in force and duration any of the known outbreaks of Etna or + Vesuvius. The ground trembled and the echoes of its roar were heard + through an area of 1,000 miles around the volcano, and to a distance of + 300 miles its effects were astounding. + </p> + <p> + In Java, 300 miles away, ashes filled the air so thickly that the solar + rays could not penetrate them, and fell to the depth of several inches. + The detonations were so similar to the reports of artillery as to be + mistaken for them. The Rajah of Sang’ir, who was an eye-witness of the + eruption, thus described it to Sir Stamford: + </p> + <p> + “About 7 P. M. on the 10th of April, three distinct columns of flame burst + forth near the top of the Tomboro mountain (all of them apparently within + the verge of the crater), and, after ascending separately to a very great + height, their tops united in the air in a troubled, confused manner. In + short time the whole mountain next Sang’ir appeared like a body of liquid + fire, extending itself in every direction. The fire and columns of flame + continued to rage with unabated fury, until the darkness caused by the + quantity of falling matter obscured them, at about 8 P. M. Stones at this + time fell very thick at Sang’ir—some of them as large as two fists, + but generally not larger than walnuts. Between 9 and 10 P. M. ashes began + to fall, and soon after a violent whirlwind ensued, which blew down nearly + every house in the village of Sang’ir—carrying the roofs and light + parts away with it. In the port of Sang’ir, adjoining Tomboro, its effects + were much more violent—tearing up by the roots the largest trees, + and carrying them into the air, together with men, horses, cattle, and + whatever else came within its influence. This will account for the immense + number of floating trees seen at sea. The sea rose nearly twelve feet + higher than it had ever been known to do before, and completely spoiled + the only spots of rice-land in Sang’ir—sweeping away houses and + everything within its reach. The whirlwind lasted about an hour. No + explosions were heard till the whirlwind had ceased, at about 11 P.M. From + midnight till the evening of the 11th, they continued without + intermission. After that time their violence moderated, and they were + heard only at intervals; but the explosions did not cease entirely until + the 15th of July. Of all the villages of Tomboro, Tempo, containing about + forty inhabitants, is the only one remaining. In Pekate no vestige of a + house is left; twenty-six of the people, who were at Sumbawa at the time, + are the whole of the population who have escaped. From the most particular + inquiries I have been able to make, there were certainly no fewer than + 12,000 individuals in Tomboro and Pekate at the time of the eruption, of + whom only five or six survive. The trees and herbage of every description, + along the whole of the north and west sides of the peninsula, have been + completely destroyed, with the exception of those on a high point of land, + near the spot where the village of Tomboro stood.” + </p> + <p> + Tomboro village was not only invaded by the sea on this occasion, but its + site permanently subsided; so that there is now eighteen feet of water + where there was formerly dry land. + </p> + <p> + THE VOLCANOES OF JAPAN + </p> + <p> + The Japanese archipelago, as stated in an earlier chapter, is abundantly + supplied with volcanoes, a number of them being active. Of these the best + known to travelers is Asamayama, a mountain 8,500 feet high, of which + there are several recorded eruptions. The first of these was in 1650; + after which the volcano remained feebly active till 1783, when it broke + out in a very severe eruption. In 1870 there was another of some severity, + accompanied by violent shocks of earthquake felt at Yokohama. The crater + is very deep, with irregular rocky walls of a sulphurous character. + </p> + <p> + Far the most famous of all the Japanese mountains, however, is that named + Fuji-san, but commonly termed in English Fujiyama or Fusiyama. It is in + the vicinity of the capital, and is the most prominent object in the + landscape for many miles around. The apex is shaped somewhat like an + eight-petaled lotus flower, and offers to view from different directions + from three to five peaks. + </p> + <p> + Though now apparently extinct, it was formerly an active volcano, and is + credited in history with several very disastrous eruptions. The last of + these was in 1707, at which time the whole summit burst into flames. Rocks + were split and shattered by the heat, and stones fell to the depth of + several inches in Yeddo (now Tokyo), sixty miles away. At present there + are in its crater, which has a depth of 700 or 800 feet, neither + sulphurous exhalations nor steam. According to Japanese tradition this + great peak was upheaved in a single night from the bottom of the sea, more + than twenty-one hundred years ago. + </p> + <p> + Nothing can be more majestic than this volcano, extinct though it be, + rising in an immense cone from the plain to the height of over twelve + thousand feet, truncated at the top, and with its peak almost always + snow-covered. Its ascent is not difficult to an expert climber, and has + frequently been made. From its summit is unfolded a panorama beyond the + power of words to describe, and probably the most remarkable on the globe. + Mountains, valleys, lakes, forests and the villages of thirteen counties + may be seen. As we gaze upon its beautifully shaped and lofty mass, + visible even from Yokohama and a hundred miles at sea, one does not wonder + that it should be regarded as a holy mountain, and that it should form a + conspicuous object in every Japanese work of art. It is to the natives of + Japan as Mont Blanc is to Europeans, the “monarch of mountains.” + </p> + <p> + In summer pilgrimages are made around the base of the summit elevation, + and there are on the upward path a number of Buddhist temples and shrines, + made of blocks of stone, for devotion, shelter and the storage of food for + pilgrims. Hakone Lake is three thousand feet above the sea, and probably + lies in the crater of an extinct volcano. Its waters are very deep; it is + several miles long and wide, and is surrounded by high hills which abound + in fine scenery, solfataras and mineral springs. + </p> + <p> + HOT SPRINGS NEAR HAKONE LAKE + </p> + <p> + At this place the mountain seems to be smouldering, as sulphur fumes and + steam issue at many points, and the ground is covered with a friable white + alkaline substance. In many a hollow the water bubbles with clouds of + vapor and sulphuretted hydrogen; here the soil is hot and evidently + underlaid by active fires. It is not safe to go very near, as the crust is + thin and crumbling. The water running down the hills has a refreshing + sound and a tempting clearness, but the thirsty tongue at once detects it + to be a very strong solution of alum. The whole aspect of the place is + infernal, and naturally suggests the name given its principal geyser, + O-gigoko (Big Hell). + </p> + <p> + Fujiyama is almost a perfect cone, with, as above said, a truncated top, + in which is the crater. It is, however, less steep than Mayon. Its upper + part is comparatively steep, even to thirty-five degrees, but below this + portion the inclination gradually lessens, till its elegant outlines are + lost in the plain from which it rises. The curves of the sides depend + partly on the nature, size and shape of the ejected material, the fine + uniform pieces remaining on comparatively steep slopes, while the larger + and rounder ones roll farther down, resting on the inclination that + afterward becomes curved from the subsidence of the central mass. + </p> + <p> + The most recent and one of the most destructive of volcanic eruptions + recorded in Japan was that of Bandaisan or Baldaisan. For ages this + mountain had been peaceful, and there was scarcely an indication of its + volcanic character or of the terrific forces which lay dormant deep within + its heart. On its flanks lay some small deposits of scoriae, indications + of far-past eruptions, and there were some hot springs at its base, while + steam arose from a fissure. Yet there was nothing to warn the people of + the vicinity that deadly peril lay under their feet. + </p> + <p> + BANDAISAN’S WORK OF TERROR + </p> + <p> + This sense of security was fatally dissipated on a day in July, 1888, when + the mountain suddenly broke into eruption and flung 1,600 million cubic + yards of its summit material so high into the air that many of the falling + fragments, in their fall, struck the ground with such velocity as to be + buried far out of sight. The steam and dust were driven to a height of + 13,000 feet, where they spread into a canopy of much greater elevation, + causing pitchy darkness beneath. There were from fifteen to twenty violent + explosions, and a great landslide devastated about thirty square miles and + buried many villages in the Nagase Valley. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Norman, a traveler who visited the spot shortly afterward, thus + describes the scene of ruin. After a journey through the forests which + clothed the slopes of the volcanic mountain and prevented any distant + view, the travelers at last found themselves “standing upon the ragged + edge of what was left of the mountain of Bandaisan, after two-thirds of + it, including, of course, the summit, had been literally blown away and + spread over the face of the country. + </p> + <p> + “The original cone of the mountain,” he continues, “had been truncated at + an acute angle to its axis. From our very feet a precipitous mud slope + falls away for half a mile or more till it reaches the level. At our + right, still below us, rises a mud wall a mile long, also sloping down to + the level, and behind it is evidently the crater; but before us, for five + miles in a straight line, and on each side nearly as far, is a sea of + congealed mud, broken up into ripples and waves and great billows, and + bearing upon its bosom a thousand huge boulders, weighing hundreds of tons + apiece.” + </p> + <p> + On reaching the crater he found it to resemble a gigantic cauldron, fully + a mile in width, and enclosed with precipitous walls of indurated mud. + From several orifices volumes of steam rose into the air, and when the + vapor cleared away for a moment glimpses of a mass of boiling mud were + obtained. Before the eruption the mountain top had terminated in three + peaks. Of these the highest had an elevation of about 5,800 feet. The peak + destroyed was the middle one, which was rather smaller than the other two. + </p> + <p> + “The explosion was caused by steam; there was neither fire nor lava of any + kind. It was, in fact, nothing more nor less than a gigantic boiler + explosion. The whole top and one side of Sho-Bandai-san had been blown + into the air in a lateral direction, and the earth of the mountain was + converted by the escaping steam, at the moment of the explosion, into + boiling mud, part of which was projected into the air to fall at a long + distance, and then take the form of an overflowing river, which rushed + with vast rapidity and covered the country to a depth of from 20 to 150 + feet. Thirty square miles of country were thus devastated.” + </p> + <p> + In the devastated lowlands and buried villages below and on the slopes of + the mountain many lives were lost. From the survivors Mr. Norman gathered + some information, enabling him to describe the main features of the + catastrophe. We append a brief outline of his narrative: + </p> + <p> + MR. NORMAN’S NARRATIVE + </p> + <p> + “At a few minutes past 8 o’clock in the morning a frightful noise was + heard by the inhabitants of a village ten miles distant from the crater. + Some of them instinctively took to flight, but before they could run much + more than a hundred yards the light of day was suddenly changed into a + darkness more intense than that of midnight; a shower of blinding hot + ashes and sand poured down upon them; the ground was shaken with + earthquakes, and explosion followed explosion, the last being the most + violent of all. Many fugitives, as well as people in the houses, were + overwhelmed by the deluge of mud, none of the fugitives, when overtaken by + death, being more than two hundred yards from the village.” From the + statements made by those fortunate enough to escape with their lives, and + from a personal examination of the ground, Mr. Norman inferred that the + mud must have been flung fully six miles through the air and then have + poured in a torrent along the ground for four miles further. All this was + done in less than five minutes, so that “millions of tons of boiling mud + were hurled over the country at the rate of two miles a minute.” + </p> + <p> + The velocity of the mud torrent may perhaps be overestimated, but in its + awful suddenness this catastrophe was evidently one with few equals. The + cone destroyed may have been largely composed of rather fine ashes and + scoriae, which was almost instantaneously converted into mud by the + condensing steam and the boiling water ejected. The quantity of water thus + discharged must have been enormous. + </p> + <p> + Of the remaining volcanic regions of the Pacific, the New Zealand islands + present some of the most striking examples of activity. All the central + parts, indeed, of the northern island of the group are of a highly + volcanic character. There is here a mountain named Tongariro, on whose + snow-clad summit is a deep crater, from which volcanic vapors are seen to + issue, and which exhibits other indications of having been in a state of + greater activity at a not very remote period of time. There is also, at no + great distance from this mountain, a region containing numerous + funnel-shaped chasms, emitting hot water, or steam, or sulphurous vapors, + or boiling mud. The earthquakes in New Zealand had probably their origin + in this volcanic focus. + </p> + <p> + THE NEW ZEALAND VOLCANOES + </p> + <p> + Tongariro has a height of about 6,500 feet, while Egmont, 8,270 feet in + height, is a perfect cone with a perpetual cap of snow. There are many + other volcanic mountains, and also great numbers of mud volcanoes, hot + springs and geysers. It is for the latter that the island is best known to + geologists. Their waters are at or near the boiling point and contain + silica in abundance. + </p> + <p> + At a place called Rotomahana, in the vicinity of Mount Tarawera, there was + formerly a lake of about one hundred and twenty acres in area, which was + in its way one of the most remarkable bodies of water upon the earth. + Formerly, we say, for this lake no longer exists, it having been destroyed + by the very forces to which it owed its fame. Its waters were maintained + nearly at the boiling point by the continual accession of boiling water + from numerous springs. The most abundant of those sources was situated at + the height of about 100 feet above the level of the lake. It kept + continually filled an oval basin about 250 feet in circumference—the + margins of which were fringed all round with beautiful pure white + stalactites, formed by deposits of silica, with which the hot water was + strongly impregnated. At various stages below the principal spring were + several others, that contributed to feed the lake at the bottom, in the + centre of which was a small island. Minute bubbles continually escaped + from the surface of the water with a hissing sound, and the sand all round + the lake was at a high temperature. If a stick was thrust into it, very + hot vapors would ascend from the hole. Not far from this lake were several + small basins filled with tepid water, which was very clear, and of a blue + color. + </p> + <p> + The conditions here were of a kind with those to which are due the great + geysers of Iceland and the Yellowstone Park, but different in the fact + that instead of being intermittent and throwing up jets at intervals, the + springs allowed the water to flow from them in a continuous stream. + </p> + <p> + THE PINK AND WHITE TERRACES + </p> + <p> + The silicious incrustations left by the overflow from the large pool had + made a series of terraces, two to six feet high, with the appearance of + being hewn from white or pink marble; each of the basins containing a + similar azure water. These terraces covered an area of about three acres, + and looked like a series of cataracts changed into stone, each edge being + fringed with a festoon of delicate stalactites. The water contained about + eighty-five per cent. of silica, with one or two per cent of iron alumina, + and a little alkali. + </p> + <p> + There were no more beautiful products of nature upon the earth than those + “pink and white terraces,” as they were called. The hot springs of the + Yellowstone have produced formations resembling them, but not their equal + in fairy-like charm. One series of these terraced pools and cascades was + of the purest white tint, the other of the most delicate pink, the waters + topping over the edge of each pool and falling in a miniature cascade to + the one next below, thus keeping the edges built up by a continual renewal + of the silicious incrustation. But all their beauty could not save them + from utter and irremediable destruction by the forces below the earth’s + surface. + </p> + <p> + On June 9, 1886, a great volcanic disturbance began in the Auckland Lake + region with a tremendous earthquake, followed during the night by many + others. At seven the next morning a lead-covered cloud of pumice sand, + advancing from the south, burst and discharged showers of fine dust. The + range of Mount Tarawera seemed to be in full volcanic activity, including + some craters supposed to be extinct, and embracing an area of one hundred + and twenty miles by twenty. + </p> + <p> + The showers of dust were so thick as to turn day into night for nearly two + days. Some lives were lost, and several villages were destroyed, these + being covered ten feet deep with ashes, dust and clayey mud. The volcanic + phenomena were of the most violent character, and the whole island appears + to have been more or less convulsed. Mount Tarawera is said to be five + hundred feet higher than before the eruption; glowing masses were thrown + up into the air, and tongues of fiery hue, gases or illuminated vapors, + five hundred feet wide, towered up one thousand feet high. The mountain + was 2,700 feet in height. + </p> + <p> + TARAWERA IN ERUPTION + </p> + <p> + This eruption presented a spectacle of rarely-equalled grandeur. To + travelers and strangers the greatest resultant loss will be the + destruction of those world-famous curiosities, the white and pink + terraces, in the vicinity of Lake Rotomahana and the region of the famous + geysers. The natives have a superstition that the eruption of the extinct + Tarawera was caused by the profanation of foreign footsteps. It was to + them a sacred place, and its crater a repository for their dead. The first + earthquake occurred in this region. One side of the mountain fell in, and + then the eruption began. The basin of the lake was broken up and + disappeared, but again reappeared as a boiling mud cauldron; craters burst + out in various places, and the beautiful terraces were no more. After the + first day the violence gradually diminished, and in a week had ceased. + Very possibly another lake will be formed, and in time other terraces; but + it is hardly within the range of probability that the beauty of the lost + terraces will ever be paralleled. + </p> + <p> + In this eruption, as usual, we find the earthquake preceding the volcanic + outburst. New Zealand, like the Philippines, Java and the Japanese + Islands, is situated over a great earth-fissure or line of weakness. + Subsidence or dislocation from tensile strain of the crust took place, and + the influx of water to new regions of heated strata may have developed the + explosive force. The earthquake and the volcano worked together here, as + they frequently do, unfortunately in this case destroying one of the most + beautiful scenes on the surface of the globe. + </p> + <p> + THE ANTARCTIC VOLCANOES + </p> + <p> + Much further south, on the frozen shore of Victoria Land in the Antarctic + regions, Sir James Ross, in 1841, sailing in his discovery ships the + Erebus and Terror, discovered two great volcanic mountains, which he named + after those two vessels. Mount Erebus is continually covered, from top to + bottom, with snow and glaciers. The mountain is about 12,000 feet high, + and although the snow reaches to the very edge of the crater, there rise + continually from the summit immense volumes of volcanic fumes, illuminated + by the glare of glowing lava beneath them. The vapors ascend to an + estimated height of 2,200 feet above the top of the mountain. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXV. + </h2> + <h3> + The Wonderful Hawaiian Craters and Kilauea’s Lake of Fire. + </h3> + <p> + In the central region of the North Pacific Ocean lies the archipelago + formerly known as the Sandwich Islands, now collectively designated as + Hawaii. The people of the United States should be specially interested in + this island group, for it has become one of our possessions, an outlying + Territory of our growing Republic, and in making it part of our national + domain we have not alone extended our dominion far over the seas, but have + added to the many marvels of nature within our land one of the chief + wonders of the world, the stupendous Hawaiian volcanoes, before whose + grandeur many of more ancient fame sink into insignificance. + </p> + <p> + THE ISLAND OF HAWAII + </p> + <p> + The Island of Hawaii, the principal island of the group, we may safely say + contains the most enormous volcano of the earth. Indeed, the whole island, + which is 4000 square miles in extent, may be regarded as of volcanic + origin. It contains four volcanic mountains—Kohola, Hualalia, Mauna + Kea and Mauna Loa. The two last named are the chief, the former being + 13,800 feet, the latter 13,600 feet, above the sea-level. Although their + height is so vast, the ascent to their summits is so gradual that their + circumference at the base is enormous. The bulk of each of them is + reckoned to be equal to two and a half times that of Etna. Some of the + streams of lava which have emanated from them are twenty-six miles in + length by two miles in breadth. + </p> + <p> + On the adjoining island of Maui is a still larger volcano, the mighty + Haleakala, long since extinct, but memorable as possessing the most + stupendous crater on the face of the earth. The mountain itself is over + 10,000 feet high, and forms a great dome-like mass of 90 miles + circumference at base. The crater on its summit has a length of 7 1/2 and + a width of 2 1/4 miles, with a total area of about sixteen square miles. + The only approach in dimensions to this enormous opening exists in the + still living crater of Kilauea, on the flank of Mauna Loa. + </p> + <p> + A VOLCANIC ISLAND GROUP + </p> + <p> + The peaks named are the most apparent remnants of a world-rending volcanic + activity in the remote past, by whose force this whole Hawaiian island + group was lifted up from the depths of the ocean, here descending some + three and a half miles below the surface level. The coral reefs which + abound around the islands are of comparatively recent formation, and rest + upon a substratum of lava probably ages older, which forms the base of the + archipelago. The islands are volcanic peaks and ridges that have been + pushed up above the surrounding seas by the profound action of the + interior forces of the earth. + </p> + <p> + It must not be supposed that this action was a violent perpendicular + thrust upward over a very limited locality, for the mountains continue to + slope at about the same angle under the sea and for great distances on + every side, so that the islands are really the crests of an extensive + elevation, estimated to cover an area of about 2000 miles in one direction + by 150 or 200 miles in the other. The process was probably a gradual one + of up-building, by means of which the sea receded as the land steadily + rose. Some idea of the mighty forces that have been at work beneath the + sea and above it can be gained by considering the enormous mass of + material now above the sea-level. Thus, the bulk of the island of Hawaii, + the largest of the group, has been estimated by the Hawaiian Surveyor + General as containing 3,600 cubic miles of lava rock above sea-level. + Taking the area of England at 50,000 square miles, this mass of volcanic + matter would cover that entire country to a depth of 274 feet. We must + remember, however, that what is above sea-level is only a small fraction + of the total amount, since it sweeps down below the waves hundreds of + miles on every side. + </p> + <p> + CRATER OF HALEAKALA + </p> + <p> + Of the lava openings on these islands, the extinct one of Haleakala, as + stated, with its twenty-seven miles circumference, is far the most + stupendous. It is easy of access, the mountain sides leading to it + presenting a gentle slope; while the walls of the crater, in places + perpendicular, in others are so sloping that man and horse can descend + them. The pit varies from 1500 to 2000 feet in depth, its bottom being + very irregular from the old lava flows and the many cinder cones, these + still looking as fresh as though their fires had just gone out. Some of + these cones are over 500 feet high. There is a tradition among the natives + that the vast lava streams which in the past flowed from the crater to the + sea continued to do so in the period of their remote ancestors. They + still, indeed, appear as if recent, though there are to-day no signs of + volcanic activity anywhere on this island. + </p> + <p> + In fact, the only volcano now active in the Hawaiian Islands is Mauna Loa, + in the southern section of the Island of Hawaii. A striking feature of + this is that it has two distinct and widely disconnected craters, one on + its summit, the other on its flank, at a much lower level. The latter is + the vast crater of Kilauea, the largest active crater known on the face of + the globe. + </p> + <p> + MISS BIRD IN THE CRATER OF KILAUEA + </p> + <p> + We cannot offer a better description of the aspect of this lava abyss than + to give Miss Bird’s eloquent description of her adventurous descent into + it: + </p> + <p> + “The abyss, which really is at a height of four thousand feet on the flank + of Mauna Loa, has the appearance of a pit on a rolling plain. But such a + pit! It is quite nine miles in circumference, and at its lowest area—which + not long ago fell about three hundred feet, just as the ice on a pond + falls when the water below is withdrawn—covers six square miles. The + depth of the crater varies from eight hundred to one thousand feet, + according as the molten sea below is at flood or ebb. Signs of volcanic + activity are present more or less throughout its whole depth and for some + distance along its margin, in the form of steam-cracks, jets of sulphurous + vapor, blowing cones, accumulating deposits of acicular crystals of + sulphur, etc., and the pit itself is constantly rent and shaken by + earthquakes. Great eruptions occur with circumstances of indescribable + terror and dignity; but Kilauea does not limit its activity to these + outbursts, but has exhibited its marvellous phenomena through all known + time in a lake or lakes on the southern part of the crater three miles + from this side. + </p> + <p> + “This lake—the Hale-mau-mau, or ‘House of everlasting Fire’, of the + Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess Pele—is + approachable with safety, except during an eruption. The spectacle, + however, varies almost daily; and at times the level of the lava in the + pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating gases are evolved in such + enormous quantities, that travellers are unable to see anything. + </p> + <p> + “At the time of our visit there had been no news from it for a week; and + as nothing was to be seen but a very faint bluish vapor hanging round its + margin, the prospect was not encouraging. After more than an hour of very + difficult climbing, we reached the lowest level of the crater, pretty + nearly a mile across, presenting from above the appearance of a sea at + rest; but on crossing it, we found it to be an expanse of waves and + convolutions of ashy-colored lava, with huge cracks filled up with black + iridescent rolls of lava only a few weeks old. Parts of it are very rough + and ridgy, jammed together like field-ice, or compacted by rolls of lava, + which may have swelled up from beneath; but the largest part of the area + presents the appearance of huge coiled hawsers, the ropy formation of the + lava rendering the illusion almost perfect. These are riven by deep + cracks, which emit hot sulphurous vapors. + </p> + <p> + “As we ascended, the flow became hotter under our feet, as well as more + porous and glistening. It was so hot that a shower of rain hissed as it + fell upon it. The crust became increasingly insecure, and necessitated our + walking in single file with the guide in front, to test the security of + the footing. I fell through several times, and always into holes full of + sulphurous steam so malignantly acid that my strong dogskin gloves were + burned through as I raised myself on my hands. + </p> + <p> + “We had followed the lava-flow for thirty miles up to the crater’s brink, + and now we had toiled over recent lava for three hours, and, by all + calculations, were close to the pit; yet there was no smoke or sign of + fire, and I felt sure that the volcano had died out for once for my + special disappointment. + </p> + <p> + “Suddenly, just above and in front of us, gory drops were tossed in the + air, and springing forwards, we stood on the brink of Hale-mau-mau, which + was about thirty-five feet below us. I think we all screamed. I know we + all wept; but we were speechless, for a new glory and terror had been + added to the earth. It is the most unutterable of wonderful things. The + words of common speech are quite useless. It is unimaginable, + indescribable; a sight to remember forever; a sight which at once took + possession of every faculty of sense and soul, removing one altogether out + of the range of ordinary life. Here was the real ‘bottomless pit’, ‘the + fire which is not quenched’, ‘the place of Hell’, ‘the lake which burneth + with fire and brimstone’, ‘the everlasting burnings’, ‘the fiery sea whose + waves are never weary’. Perhaps those Scripture phrases were suggested by + the sight of some volcano in eruption. There were groanings, rumblings, + and detonations; rushings, hissings, splashings, and the crashing sound of + breakers on the coast; but it was the surging of fiery waves upon a fiery + shore. But what can I write? Such words as jets, fountains, waves, spray, + convey some idea of order and regularity, but here there are none. + </p> + <p> + “The inner lake, while we stood there, formed a sort of crater within + itself; the whole lava sea rose about three feet; a blowing cone about + eight feet high was formed; it was never the same two minutes together. + And what we saw had no existence a month before, and probably will be + changed in every essential feature a month from hence. The prominent + object was fire in motion; but the surface of the double lake was + continually skimming over for a second or two with a cool crust of + lustrous grey-white, like frost-silver, broken by jagged cracks of a + bright rose-color. The movement was nearly always from the sides to the + centre; but the movement of the centre itself appeared independent, and + always took a southerly direction. Before each outburst of agitation there + was much hissing and throbbing, with internal roaring as of imprisoned + gases. Now it seemed furious, demoniacal, as if no power on earth could + bind it, then playful and sportive; then for a second languid, but only + because it was accumulating fresh force. Sometimes the whole lake took the + form of mighty waves, and, surging heavily against the partial barrier + with a sound like the Pacific surf, lashed, tore, covered it, and threw + itself over it in clots of living fire. It was all confusion, commotion, + forces, terror, glory, majesty, mystery, and even beauty. And the color, + ‘eye hath not seen’ it! Molten metal hath not that crimson gleam, nor + blood that living light.” + </p> + <p> + To this description we may add that of Mr. Ellis, a former missionary to + these islands, and one of the number who have descended to the shores of + Kilauea’s abyss of fire. He says, after describing his difficult descent + and progress over the lava-strewn pit: + </p> + <p> + MR. ELLIS VISITS THE LAKE OF LAVA + </p> + <p> + “Immediately before us yawned an immense gulf, in the form of a crescent, + about two miles in length, from northeast to southwest; nearly a mile in + width, and apparently 800 feet deep. The bottom was covered with lava, and + the southwestern and northern parts of it were one vast flood of burning + matter in a state of terrific ebullition, rolling to and fro its ‘fiery + surges’ and flaming billows. Fifty-one conical islands, of varied form and + size, containing as many craters, rose either round the edge or from the + surface of the burning lake; twenty-two constantly emitted columns of gray + smoke or pyramids of brilliant flame, and several of these at the same + time vomited from their ignited mouths streams of lava, which rolled in + blazing torrents down their black indented sides into the boiling mass + below. + </p> + <p> + “The existence of these conical craters led us to conclude that the + boiling cauldron of lava before us did not form the focus of the volcano; + that this mass of melted lava was comparatively shallow, and that the + basin in which it was contained was separated by a stratum of solid matter + from the great volcanic abyss, which constantly poured out its melted + contents through these numerous craters into this upper reservoir. The + sides of the gulf before us, although composed of different strata of + ancient lava, were perpendicular for about 400 feet, and rose from a wide + horizontal ledge of solid black lava of irregular breadth, but extending + completely round. Beneath this ledge the sides sloped gradually towards + the burning lake, which was, as nearly as we could judge, 300 or 400 feet + lower. + </p> + <p> + “It was evident that the large crater had been recently filled with liquid + lava up to this black ledge, and had, by some subterraneous canal, emptied + itself into the sea or spread under the low land on the shore. The gray + and in some places apparently calcined sides of the great crater before + us, the fissures which intersected the surface of the plain on which we + were standing, the long banks of sulphur on the opposite side of the + abyss, the vigorous action of the numerous small craters on its borders, + the dense columns of vapor and smoke that rose at the north and west end + of the plain, together with the ridge of steep rocks by which it was + surrounded, rising probably in some places 300 or 400 feet in + perpendicular height, presented an immense volcanic panorama, the effect + of which was greatly augmented by the constant roaring of the vast + furnaces below.” + </p> + <p> + MAUNA LOA IN ERUPTION + </p> + <p> + Of the two great craters of Mauna Loa, the summit one has frequently in + modern times overflowed its crest and poured its molten streams in glowing + rivers over the land. This has rarely been the case with the lower and + incessantly active crater of Kilauea, whose lava, when in excess, appears + to escape by subterranean channels to the sea. We append descriptions of + some of the more recent examples of Mauna Loa’s eruptive energy. The lava + from this crater does not alone flow over the crater’s lip, but at times + makes its way through fissures far below, the immense pressure causing it + to spout in great flashing fountains high into the air. In 1852 the fiery + fountains reached a height of 500 feet. In some later eruptions they have + leaped 1,000 feet high. The lava is white hot as it ascends, but it + assumes a blood-red tint in its fall, and strikes the ground with a + frightful noise. + </p> + <p> + The quantities of lava ejected in some of the recent eruptions have been + enormous. The river-like flow of 1855 was remarkable for its extent, being + from two to eight miles wide, with a depth of from three to three hundred + feet, and extending in a winding course for a distance of sixty miles. The + Apostle of Hawaiian volcanoes, the Rev. Titus Coan, who ventured to the + source of this flow while it was in supreme action, thus describes it:— + </p> + <p> + “We ascended our rugged pathway amidst steam and smoke and heat which + almost blinded and scathed us. We came to open orifices down which we + looked into the fiery river which rushed madly under our feet. These fiery + vents were frequent, some of them measuring ten, twenty, fifty or one + hundred feet in diameter. In one place we saw the river of lava uncovered + for thirty rods and rushing down a declivity of from ten to twenty-five + degrees. The scene was awful, the momentum incredible, the fusion perfect + (white heat), and the velocity forty miles an hour. The banks on each side + of the stream were red-hot, jagged and overhanging. As we viewed it + rushing out from under its ebon counterpane, and in the twinkling of an + eye diving again into its fiery den, it seemed to say, ‘Stand off! Scan me + not! I am God’s messenger. A work to do. Away!’” + </p> + <p> + Later he wrote again:—“The great summit fountain is still playing + with fearful energy, and the devouring stream rushes madly down toward us. + It is now about ten miles distant, and heading directly for our bay. In a + few days we may be called to announce the painful fact that our beauteous + Hilo is no more,—that our lovely, our inimitable landscape, our + emerald bowers, our crescent strand and our silver bay are blotted out. A + fiery sword hangs over us. A flood of burning ruin approaches us. + Devouring fires are near us. With sure and solemn progress the glowing + fusion advances through the dark forest and the dense jungle in our rear, + cutting down ancient trees of enormous growth and sweeping away all + vegetable life. For months the great summit furnace on Mauna Loa has been + in awful blast. Floods of burning destruction have swept wildly and widely + over the top and down the sides of the mountain. The wrathful stream has + overcome every obstacle, winding its fiery way from its high source to the + bases of the everlasting hills, spreading in a molten sea over the plains, + penetrating the ancient forests, driving the bellowing herds, the wild + goats and the affrighted birds before its lurid glare, leaving nothing but + ebon blackness and smoldering ruin in its track.” + </p> + <p> + His anticipation of the burial of Hilo under the mighty flow was happily + not realized. It came to an abrupt halt while seven miles distant, the + checked stream standing in a threatening and rugged ridge, with rigid, + beetling front. + </p> + <p> + THE ERUPTIONS OF 1859 AND 1865 + </p> + <p> + In January, 1859, Mauna Loa was again at its fire-play, throwing up lava + fountains from 800 to 1,000 feet in height. From this great fiery fountain + the lava flowed down in numerous streams, spreading over a width of five + or six miles. One stream, probably formed by the junction of several + smaller, attained a height of from twenty to twenty-five feet, and a + breadth of about an eighth of a mile. Great stones were thrown up along + with the jet of lava, and the volume of seeming smoke, composed probably + of fine volcanic dust, is said to have risen to the height of 10,000 feet. + </p> + <p> + An eruption of still greater violence took place in 1865, characterized by + similar phenomena, particularly the throwing up of jets of lava. This + fiery fountain continued to play without intermission for twenty days and + nights, varying only as respects the height to which the jet arose, which + is said to have ranged between 100 and 1,000 feet, the mean diameter of + the jet being about 100 feet. This eruption was accompanied by explosions + so loud as to have been heard at a distance of forty miles. + </p> + <p> + A cone of about 300 feet in height, and about a mile in circumference, was + accumulated round the orifice whence the jet ascended. It was composed of + solid matters ejected with the lava, and it continued to glow like a + furnace, notwithstanding its exposure to the air. The current of lava on + this occasion flowed to a distance of thirty-five miles, burning its way + through the forests, and filling the air with smoke and flames from the + ignited timber. The glare from the glowing lava and the burning trees + together was discernible by night at a distance of 200 miles from the + island. + </p> + <p> + THE LAVA FLOW OF 1880 + </p> + <p> + A succeeding great lava flow was that which began on November 6, 1880. Mr. + David Hitchcock, who was camping on Mauna Kea at the time of this + outbreak, saw a spectacle that few human eyes have ever beheld. “We + stood,” writes he, “on the very edge of that flowing river of rock. Oh, + what a sight it was! Not twenty feet from us was this immense bed of rock + slowly moving forward with irresistible force, bearing on its surface huge + rocks and immense boulders of tons’ weight as water would carry a + toy-boat. The whole front edge was one bright red mass of solid rock + incessantly breaking off from the towering mass and rolling down to the + foot of it, to be again covered by another avalanche of white-hot rocks + and sand. The whole mass at its front edge was from twelve to thirty feet + in height. Along the entire line of its advance it was one crash of + rolling, sliding, tumbling red-hot rock. We could hear no explosions while + we were near the flow, only a tremendous roaring like ten thousand blast + furnaces all at work at once.” + </p> + <p> + This was the most extensive flow of recent years, and its progress from + the interior plain through the dense forests above Hilo and out on to the + open levels close to the town was startling and menacing enough. Through + the woods especially it was a turbulent, seething mass that hurled down + mammoth trees, and licked up streams of water, and day and night kept up + an unintermitting cannonade of explosions. The steam and imprisoned gases + would burst the congealing surface with loud detonations that could be + heard for many miles. It was not an infrequent thing for parties to camp + out close to the flow over night. Ordinarily a lava-flow moves sluggishly + and congeals rapidly, so that what seems like hardihood in the narrating + is in reality calm judgment, for it is perfectly safe to be in the close + vicinity of a lava-stream, and even to walk on its surface as soon as one + would be inclined to walk on cooling iron in a foundry. This notable flow + finally ceased within half a mile of Hilo, where its black form is a + perpetual reminder of a marvellous deliverance from destruction. + </p> + <p> + KILAUEA IN 1840 + </p> + <p> + Kilauea seems never, in historic times, to have filled and overflowed its + vast crater. To do so would need an almost inconceivable volume of liquid + rock material. But it approached this culmination in 1840, when it became, + through its whole extent, a raging sea of fire. The boiling lava rose in + the mighty mountain-cup to a height of from 500 to 600 feet. Then it + forced a passage through a subterranean cavity twenty-seven miles long, + and reached the sea forty miles distant, in two days. The stream where it + fell into the sea was half a mile wide, and the flow kept up for three + weeks, heating the ocean twenty miles from land. An eye-witness of this + extraordinary flow thus describes it: + </p> + <p> + “When the torrent of fire precipitated itself into the ocean, the scene + assumed a character of terrific and indescribable grandeur. The + magnificence of destruction was never more perceptibly displayed than when + these antagonistic elements met in deadly strife. The mightiest of earth’s + magazines of fire poured forth its burning billows to meet the mightiest + of oceans. For two score miles it came rolling, tumbling, swelling + forward, an awful agent of death. Rocks melted like wax in its path; + forests crackled and blazed before its fervent heat; the works of man were + to it but as a scroll in the flames. Imagine Niagara’s stream, above the + brink of the Falls, with its dashing, whirling, madly-raging waters + hurrying on to their plunge, instantaneously converted into fire; a + gory-hued river of fused minerals; volumes of hissing steam arising; some + curling upward from ten thousand vents, which give utterance to as many + deep-toned mutterings, and sullen, confined clamorings; gases detonating + and shrieking as they burst from their hot prison-house; the heavens lurid + with flame; the atmosphere dark and oppressive; the horizon murky with + vapors and gleaming with the reflected contest! + </p> + <p> + “Such was the scene as the fiery cataract, leaping a precipice of fifty + feet, poured its flood upon the ocean. The old line of coast, a mass of + compact, indurated lava, whitened, cracked and fell. The waters recoiled, + and sent forth a tempest of spray; they foamed and dashed around and over + the melted rock, they boiled with the heat, and the roar of the + conflicting agencies grew fiercer and louder. The reports of the exploding + gases were distinctly heard twenty-five miles distant, and were likened to + a whole broadside of heavy artillery. Streaks of the intensest light + glanced like lightning in all directions; the outskirts of the burning + lava as it fell, cooled by the shock, were shivered into millions of + fragments, and scattered by the strong wind in sparkling showers far into + the country. For three successive weeks the volcano disgorged an + uninterrupted burning tide, with scarcely any diminution, into the ocean. + On either side, for twenty miles, the sea became heated, with such + rapidity that, on the second day of the junction of the lava with the + ocean, fishes came ashore dead in great numbers, at a point fifteen miles + distant. Six weeks later, at the base of the hills, the water continued + scalding hot, and sent forth steam at every wash of the waves.” + </p> + <p> + THE SINKING OF KILAUEA’S FIRE-LAKE + </p> + <p> + In 1866 the great crater of Kilauea presented a new and unlooked-for + spectacle in the sinking and vanishing of its great lava lake. In March of + that year the fires in the ancient cauldron totally disappeared, and the + surrounding lava rock sank to a depth of nearly 600 feet. Mr. Thrum, in a + pamphlet on “The Suspended Activity of Kilauea,” says of it: + </p> + <p> + “Distant rumbling noises were heard, accompanied by a series of + earthquakes, forty-three in number. With the fourth shock the brilliancy + of New Lake disappeared, and towards 3 A. M. the fires in Halemaumau + disappeared also, leaving the whole crater in darkness. + </p> + <p> + “With the dawn the shocks and noises ceased, and revealed the changes + which Kilauea had undergone in the night. All the high cliffs surrounding + Halemaumau and New Lake, which had become a prominent feature in the + crater, had vanished entirely, and the molten lava of both lakes had + disappeared by some subterranean passage from the bottom of Halemaumau. + There was no material change in the sunken portion of the crater except a + continual falling in of rocks and debris from its banks as the contraction + from its former intense heat loosened their compactness and sent them + hurling some 200 or 300 feet below, giving forth at times a boom as of + distant thunder, followed by clouds of cinders and ashes shooting up into + the air 100 to 300 feet, proportionate, doubtless, to the size of the + newly fallen mass. + </p> + <p> + “This remarkable recession of the liquid lava in Halemaumau was probably + due to the opening of some deep subterranean passage through which the + lake of lava made its way unseen to the ocean’s depths. The Rev. Mr. + Baker, probably the most adventuresome explorer of Hawaiian volcanoes, + actually descended into that crumbling pit to a point within what he + judged to be fifty feet of the bottom. But Halemaumau had only taken an + intermission, for in two short months signs of returning life became + frequent and unmistakable, and, in June, culminated in the sudden outbreak + of a lake that has since then steadily increased in activity.” + </p> + <p> + THE GODDESS PELE + </p> + <p> + We cannot close this chapter without some reference to the Goddess Pele, + to whom the Hawaiians long imputed the wonder-work of their volcanic + mountains. When there is unusual commotion in Kilauea myriads of + thread-like filaments float in the air and fall upon the cliffs, making + deposits much resembling matted hair. A single filament over fifteen + inches long was picked up on a Hilo veranda, having sailed in the air a + distance of fifty miles. This is the famous Pele’s Hair, being the + glass-like product of volcanic fires. It resembles Prince Rupert’s Drops, + and the tradition is that whenever the volcano becomes active it is + because Pele, the Goddess of the crater, emerges from her fiery furnace + and shakes her vitreous locks in anger. + </p> + <p> + This fabled being, according to Emerson, in a paper on “The Lesser + Hawaiian Gods,” “could at times assume the appearance of a handsome young + woman, as when Kamapauaa, to his cost, was smitten with her charms when + first he saw her with her sisters at Kilauea.” Kamapauaa was a gigantic + hog, who “could appear as a handsome young man, a hog, a fish or a tree.” + “At other times the innate character of the fury showed itself, and Pele + appeared in her usual form as an ugly and hateful old hag, with tattered + and fire-burnt garments, scarcely concealing the filth and nakedness of + her person. Her bloodshot eyes and fiendish countenance paralyzed the + beholder, and her touch turned him to stone. She was a jealous and + vindictive monster, delighting in cruelty, and at the slightest + provocation overwhelming the unoffending victims of her rage in widespread + ruin.” + </p> + <p> + The superstition regarding the Goddess Pele was thought to have received a + death blow in 1825, when Kapiolani, an Hawaiian princess and a Christian + convert, ascended, with numerous attendants, to the crater of Kilauea, + where she publicly defied the power and wrath of the goddess. No response + came to her defiance, she descended in safety, and faith in Pele’s power + was widely shaken. + </p> + <p> + Yet as late as 1887 the old superstition revived and claimed an exalted + victim, for in that year the Princess Like Like, the youngest sister of + the king, starved herself to death to appease the anger of the Goddess + Pele, supposed to be manifested in Mauna Loa’s eruption of that year, and + to be quieted only by the sacrifice of a victim of royal blood. Thus + slowly do the old superstitions die away. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVI. + </h2> + <h3> + Popocatapetl and Other Volcanoes of Mexico and Central America. + </h3> + <p> + Mexico is very largely a vast table-land, rising through much of its + extent to an elevation of from 7,000 to 8,000 feet above sea-level, and + bounded east and west by wide strips of torrid lowlands adjoining the + oceans. It is crossed at about 19 degrees north latitude by a range of + volcanic mountains, running in almost a straight line east and west, upon + which are several extinct volcanic cones, and five active or quiescent + volcanoes. The highest of these is Popocatapetl, south of the city of + Mexico and nearly midway between the Atlantic and Pacific. + </p> + <p> + East of this mountain lies Orizabo, little below it in height, and San + Martin or Tuxtla, 9,700 feet high, on the coast south of Vera Cruz. West + of it is Jorullo, 4,000 feet, and Colima, 12,800, near the Pacific coast. + The volcanic energy continues southward toward the Isthmus, but decreases + north of this volcanic range. These mountains have shown little signs of + activity in recent times. Popocatapetl emits smoke, but there is no record + of an eruption since 1540. Orizabo has been quiet since 1566. Tuxtla had a + violent eruption in 1793, but since then has remained quiescent. Colima is + the only one now active. For ten years past it has been emitting ashes and + smoke. The most remarkable of these volcanoes is Jorullo, which closely + resembled Monte Nuovo, described in Chapter XIII., in its mode of origin. + </p> + <p> + Popocatapetl, the hill that smokes, in the Mexican language, the huge + mountain clothed in eternal snows, and regarded by the idolaters of old as + a god, towers up nearly 18,000 feet above the level of the sea, and in the + days of the conquest of Mexico was a volcano in a state of fierce + activity. It was looked upon by the natives with a strange dread, and they + told the white strangers with awe that no man could attempt to ascend its + slopes and yet live; but, from a feeling of vanity, or the love of + adventure, the Spaniards laughed at these fears, and accordingly a party + of ten of the followers of Cortes commenced the ascent, accompanied by a + few Indians. But these latter, after ascending about 13,000 feet to where + the last remains of stunted vegetation existed, became alarmed at the + subterranean bellowings of the volcano, and returned, while the Spaniards + still painfully toiled on through the rarefied atmosphere, their feet + crushing over the scoriae and black-glazed volcanic sand, until they stood + in the region of perpetual snow, amidst the glittering, treacherous + glaciers and crevasses, with vast slippery-pathed precipices yawning + round. + </p> + <p> + Still they toiled on in this wild and wondrous region. A few hours before + they were in a land of perpetual summer; here all was snow. They suffered + the usual distress awarded to those who dare to ascend to these solitudes + of nature but it was not given to them to achieve the summit, for + suddenly, at a higher elevation, after listening to various ominous + threatenings from the interior of the volcano, they encountered so fierce + a storm of smoke, cinders, and sparks, that they were driven back half + suffocated to the lower portions of the mountain. + </p> + <p> + Some time after another attempt was made; and upon this occasion with a + definite object. The invaders had nearly exhausted their stock of + gunpowder, and Cortes organized a party to ascend to the crater of the + volcano, to seek and bring down sulphur for the manufacture of this + necessary of warfare. This time the party numbered but five, led by one + Francisco Montano; and they experienced no very great difficulty in + winning their way upwards. The region of verdure gave place to the wild, + lava-strewn slope, which was succeeded in its turn by the treacherous + glaciers; and at last the gallant little band stood at the very edge of + the crater, a vast depression of over a league in circumference, and 1,000 + feet in depth. + </p> + <p> + SULPHUR FROM THE CRATER + </p> + <p> + Flame was issuing from the hideous abysses, and the stoutest man’s heart + must have quailed as he peered down into the dim, mysterious cavity to + where the sloping sides were crusted with bright yellow sulphur, and + listened to the mutterings which warned him of the pent-up wrath and power + of the mighty volcano. They knew that at any moment flame and stifling + sulphurous vapor might be belched forth, but now no cowardice was shown. + They had come provided with ropes and baskets, and it only remained to see + who should descend. Lots were therefore drawn, and it fell to Montano, who + was accordingly lowered by his followers in a basket 400 feet into the + treacherous region of eternal fires. + </p> + <p> + The basket swayed and the rope quivered and vibrated, but the brave + cavalier sturdily held to his task, disdaining to show fear before his + humble companions. The lurid light from beneath flashed upon his tanned + features, and a sulphurous steam rose slowly and condensed upon the sides; + but, whatever were his thoughts, the Spaniard collected as much sulphur as + he could take up with him, breaking off the bright incrustations, and even + dallying with his task as if in contempt of the danger, till he had + leisurely filed his basket, when the signal was given and he was drawn up. + The basket was emptied, and then he once more descended into the lurid + crater, collected another store and was again drawn up; but far from + shrinking from his task, he descended again several times, till a + sufficiency had been obtained, with which the party descended to the + plain. + </p> + <p> + THE VOLCANO JORULLO + </p> + <p> + No further back than the middle of the eighteenth century the site of + Jorullo was a level plain, including several highly-cultivated fields, + which formed the farm of Don Pedro di Jorullo. The plain was watered by + two small rivers, called Cuitimba and San Pedro, and was bounded by + mountains composed of basalt—the only indications of former volcanic + action. These fields were well irrigated, and among the most fertile in + the country, producing abundant crops of sugar-cane and indigo. + </p> + <p> + In the month of June, 1759, the cultivators of the farm began to be + disturbed by strange subterranean noises of an alarming kind, accompanied + by frequent shocks of earthquake, which continued for nearly a couple of + months; but they afterward entirely ceased, so that the inhabitants of the + place were lulled into security. On the night between the 28th and 29th of + September, however, the subterranean noises were renewed with greater + loudness than before, and the ground shook severely. The Indian servants + living on the place started from their beds in terror, and fled to the + neighboring mountains. Thence gazing upon their master’s farm they beheld + it, along with a tract of ground measuring between three and four square + miles, in the midst of which it stood, rise up bodily, as if it had been + inflated from beneath like a bladder. At the edges this tract was uplifted + only about 39 feet above the original surface, but so great was its + convexity that toward the middle it attained a height of no less than 524 + feet. + </p> + <p> + The Indians who beheld this strange phenomenon declared that they saw + flames issuing from several parts of this elevated tract, that the entire + surface became agitated like a stormy sea, that great clouds of ashes, + illuminated by volcanic fires glowing beneath them, rose at several + points, and that white-hot stones were thrown to an immense height. Vast + chasms were at the same time opened in the ground, and into these the two + small rivers above mentioned plunged. Their waters, instead of + extinguishing the subterranean conflagration, seemed only to add to its + intensity. Quantities of mud, enveloping balls of basalt, were then thrown + up, and the surface of the elevated ground became studded with small + cones, from which volumes of dense vapor, chiefly steam, were emitted, + some of the jets rising from 20 to 30 feet in height. + </p> + <p> + These cones the Indians called ovens, and in many of them was long heard a + subterranean noise resembling that of water briskly boiling. Out of a + great chasm in the midst of those ovens there were thrown up six larger + elevations, the highest being 1,640 feet above the level of the plain, + 4,315 above sea level, and now constituting the principal volcano of + Jorullo. The smallest of the six was 300 feet in height; the others of + intermediate elevation. The highest of these hills had on its summit a + regular volcanic crater, whence there have been thrown up great quantities + of dross and lava, containing fragments of older rocks. The ashes were + transported to immense distances, some of them having fallen on the houses + at Queretaro, more than forty-eight leagues from Jorullo. The volcano + continued in this energetic state of activity for about four months; in + the following years its eruptions became less frequent, but it still + continues to emit volumes of vapor from the principal crater, as well as + from many of the ovens in the upheaved ground. + </p> + <p> + EFFECT ON THE RIVERS + </p> + <p> + The two rivers, which disappeared on the first night of this great + eruption, now pursue an underground course for about a mile and a quarter, + and then reappear as hot springs, with a temperature of 126 degrees F. + </p> + <p> + This wonderful volcanic upheaval is all the more remarkable, from the + inland situation of the plain on which it occurred, it being no less than + 120 miles distant from the nearest ocean, while there is no other volcano + nearer to it than 80 miles. The activity of the ovens has now ceased, and + portions of the upheaved plain on which they are situated have again been + brought under cultivation, and the volcano is in a state of quiescence. + </p> + <p> + The crater of Popocatapetl, which towers to a height of 17,000 feet, is a + vast circular basin, whose nearly vertical walls are in some parts of a + pale rose tint, in others quite black. The bottom contains several small + fuming cones, whence arise vapors of changeable color, being successively + red, yellow and white. All round them are large deposits of sulphur, which + are worked for mercantile purposes. + </p> + <p> + Orizaba has a little less lofty snow-clad peak. This mountain was in brisk + volcanic activity from 1545 to 1560, but has since then relapsed into a + prolonged repose. It was climbed, in 1856, by Baron Muller, to whose mind + the crater appeared like the entrance to a lower world of horrible + darkness. He was struck with astonishment on contemplating the tremendous + forces required to elevate and rend such enormous masses—to melt + them, and then pile them up like towers, until by cooling they became + consolidated into their present forms. The internal walls of the crater + are in many places coated with sulphur, and at the bottom are several + small volcanic craters. At the time of his visit the summit was wholly + covered with snow, but the Indians affirmed that hot vapors occasionally + ascend from fissures in the rocks. Since then others have reached its + summit, among them Angelo Heilprin, the first to gaze into the crater of + Mont Pelee after its eruption. + </p> + <p> + ERUPTIONS IN NICARAGUA + </p> + <p> + On the 14th of November, 1867, there commenced an eruption from a mountain + about eight leagues to the eastward of the city of Leon, in Nicaragua. + This mountain does not appear to have been previously recognized as an + active volcano, but it is situated in a very volcanic country. The + outburst had probably some connection with the earthquake at St. Thomas, + which took place on the 18th of November following. The mountain continued + in a state of activity for about sixteen days. There was thrown out an + immense quantity of black sand, which was carried as far as to the coast + of the Pacific, fifty miles distant. Glowing stones were projected from + the crater to an estimated height of three thousand feet. + </p> + <p> + Central America is more prolific of volcanoes than Mexico, and the State + of Guatemala in particular. One authority credits this State with fifteen + or sixteen and another with more than thirty volcanic cones. Of these at + least five are decidedly active. Tajumalco, which was in eruption at the + time of the great earthquake of 1863, yields great quantities of sulphur, + as also does Quesaltenango. The most famous is the Volcan de Agua (Water + Volcano), so called from its overwhelming the old city of Guatemala with a + torrent of water in 1541. + </p> + <p> + Nicaragua is also rich in volcanoes, being traversed its entire length by + a remarkable chain of isolated volcanic cones, several of which are to + some extent active. We have already told the story of the tremendous + eruption of Coseguina in 1835, one of the most violent of modern times. + The latest important eruption here was that of Ometepec, a volcanic mount + on an island of the same name in Lake Nicaragua. This broke a long period + of repose on June 19, 1883, with a severe eruption, in which the lava, + pouring from a new crater, in seven days overflowed the whole island and + drove off its population. Incessant rumblings and earthquake shocks + accompanied the eruption, and mud, ashes, stones and lava covered the + mountain slopes, which had been cultivated for many centuries. These were + the most recent strong displays of volcanic energy in Central America, + though former great outflows of lava are indicated by great fields of + barren rock, which extend for miles. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0027" id="link2HCH0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVII. + </h2> + <h3> + The Terrible Eruption of Krakatoa. + </h3> + <p> + The most destructive volcanic explosion of recent times, one perhaps + unequalled in violence in all times, was that of the small mountain island + of Krakatoa, in the East Indian Archipelago, in 1883. This made its + effects felt round the entire globe, and excited such wide attention that + we feel called upon to give it a chapter of its own. + </p> + <p> + The island of Krakatoa lies in the Straits of Sunda, between Java and + Sumatra. In size it is insignificant, and had been silent so long that its + volcanic character was almost lost sight of. Of its early history we know + nothing. At some remote time in the past it may have appeared as a large + cone, of some twenty-five miles in circumference at base and not less than + 10,000 feet high. Then, still in unknown times, its cone was blown away by + internal forces, leaving only a shattered and irregular crater ring. This + crater was two or three miles in diameter, while the highest part of its + walls rose only a few hundred feet above the sea. Later volcanic work + built up a number of small cones within the crater, and still later a new + cone, called Rakata, rose on the edge of the old one to a height of 2,623 + feet. + </p> + <p> + The first known event in the history of the island volcano was an eruption + in the year 1680. After that it lay in repose, forming a group of islands, + one much larger than the others. Some of the smaller islands indicated the + rim of the old crater, much of which was buried under the sea. Its state + of quiescence continued for two centuries, a tropical vegetation richly + mantled the island, and to all appearance it had sunk permanently to rest. + </p> + <p> + Indications of a coming change appeared in 1880, in the form of + earthquakes, which shook all the region around. These continued at + intervals for more that two years. Then, on May 20, 1883, there were heard + at Batavia, a hundred miles away, “booming sounds like the firing of + artillery.” Next day the captain of a vessel passing through the Straits + saw that Krakatoa was in eruption, sending up clouds of smoke and showers + of dust and pumice. The smoke was estimated to reach a height of seven + miles, while the volcanic dust drifted to localities 300 miles away. + </p> + <p> + AWFUL PREMONITIONS + </p> + <p> + The mountain continued to play for about fourteen weeks with varying + activity, several parties meanwhile visiting it and making observations. + Such an eruption, in ordinary cases, would have ultimately died away, with + no marked change other than perhaps the ejection of a stream of lava. But + such was not now the case. The sequel was at once unexpected and terrible. + As the island was uninhabited, no one actually saw what took place, those + nearest to the scene of the eruption having enough to do to save their own + lives, while the dense clouds of vapor and dust baffled observation. + </p> + <p> + The phase of greatest violence set in on Sunday, August 26th. Soon after + midday sailors on passing ships saw that the island had vanished behind a + dense cloud of black vapor, the height of which was estimated at not less + than seventeen miles. At intervals frightful detonations resounded, and + after a time a rain of pumice began to fall at places ten miles distant. + For miles round fierce flashes of lightning rent the vapor, and at a + distance of fully forty miles ghostly corposants gleamed on the rigging of + a vessel. + </p> + <p> + These phenomena grew more and more alarming until August 27th, when four + explosions of fearful intensity shook earth and sea and air, the third + being “far the most violent and productive of the most widespread + results.” It was, in fact, perhaps the most tremendous volcanic outburst, + in its intensity, known in human history. It seemed to overcome the + obstruction to the energy of the internal forces, for the eruption now + declined, and in a day or two practically died away, though one or two + comparatively insignificant outbursts took place later. + </p> + <p> + FAR-REACHING DESTRUCTION + </p> + <p> + The eruption spread ruin and death over many surrounding leagues. At + Krakotoa itself, when men once more reached its shores, everything was + found to be changed. About two-thirds of the main island were blown + completely away. The marginal cone was cut nearly in half vertically, the + new cliff falling precipitously toward the centre of the crater. Where + land had been before now sea existed, in some places more than one hundred + feet deep. But the part of the island that remained had been somewhat + increased in size by ejected materials. + </p> + <p> + Of the other islands and islets some had disappeared; some were partially + destroyed; some were enlarged by fallen debris, while many changes had + taken place in the depth of the neighboring sea-bed. Two new islands, + Steers and Calmeyer, were formed. The ejected pumice, so cavernous in + structure as to float upon the water, at places formed great floating + islands which covered the sea for miles, and sometimes rose from four to + seven feet above it, proving a serious obstacle to navigation. On vessels + near by dust fell to the depth of eighteen inches. The enormous clouds of + volcanic dust which had been flung high into the air darkened the sky for + a great area around. At Batavia, about a hundred miles from the volcano, + it produced an effect not unlike that of a London fog. This began about + seven in the morning of August 27th. Soon after ten the light had become + lurid and yellow, and lamps were required in the houses; then came a + downfall of rain, mingled with dust, and by about half-past eleven the + town was in complete darkness. It soon after began to lighten, and the + rain to diminish, and about three o’clock it had ceased. + </p> + <p> + At Buitenzorg, twenty miles further away, the conditions were similar, but + lasted for a shorter time. In places much farther away the upper sky + presented a strangely murky aspect, and the sun assumed a green color. + Phenomena of this kind were traced over a broad area of the globe, even as + far as the Hawaiian Islands, while over a yet wider area the sky after + sunset was lit up by after-glows of extraordinary beauty. The height to + which the dust was projected has been calculated from various data, with + the result that 121,500 feet, or nearly 25 miles, is thought to be a + probable maximum estimate, though it may be that occasional fragments of + larger size were shot up to a still greater height. + </p> + <p> + A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF THE ERUPTION + </p> + <p> + Another effect, of a distressing character, followed the eruption. A + succession of enormous waves, emanating from Krakatoa, traversed the sea, + and swept the coast bordering the Straits of Sunda with such force as to + destroy many villages on the low-lying shores in Java, Sumatra and other + islands. Some buildings at a height of fifty feet above sea-level were + washed away, and in some places the water rose higher, in one place + reaching the height of 115 feet. At Telok Betong, in Sumatra, a ship was + carried inland a distance of nearly two miles, and left stranded at a + height of thirty feet above the sea. + </p> + <p> + The eruption of Krakatoa seems to have been due to some deep-lying causes + of extraordinary violence, this appearing not only in the terrible + explosion which tore the island to fragments and sent its remnants as + floating dust many miles high into the air, but also from an internal + convulsion that affected many of the volcanoes of Java, which almost + simultaneously broke into violent eruption. We extract from Dr. Robert + Bonney’s “Our Earth and its Story” a description of these closely-related + events. + </p> + <p> + “The disturbances originated on the island of Krakatoa, with eruptions of + red hot stones and ashes, and by noon next day Semeru, the largest of the + Javanese volcanoes, was reported to be belching forth flames at an + alarming rate. The eruption soon spread to Gunung Guntur and other + mountains, until more than a third of the forty-five craters of Java were + either in activity or seriously threatening it. + </p> + <p> + “Just before dusk a great cloud hung over Gunung Guntur, and the crater of + the volcano began to emit enormous streams of white sulphurous mud and + lava, which were rapidly succeeded by explosions, followed by tremendous + showers of cinders and enormous fragments of rock, which were hurled high + into the air and scattered in all directions, carrying death and + destruction with them. The overhanging clouds were, moreover, so charged + with electricity that water-spouts added to the horror of the scene. The + eruption continued all Saturday night, and next day a dense cloud, shot + with lurid red, gathered over the Kedang range, intimating that an + eruption had broken out there. + </p> + <p> + “This proved to be the case, for soon after streams of lava poured down + the mountain sides into the valleys, sweeping everything before them. + About two o’clock on Monday morning—we are drawing on the account of + an eye-witness—the great cloud suddenly broke into small sections + and vanished. When light came it was seen that an enormous tract of land, + extending from Point Capucin on the south, and Negery Passoerang on the + north and west, to the lowest point, covering about fifty square miles, + had been temporarily submerged by the ‘tidal wave.’ Here were situated the + villages of Negery and Negery Babawang. Few of the inhabitants of these + places escaped death. This section of the island was less densely + populated than the other portions, and the loss of life was comparatively + small, although it must have aggregated several thousands. The waters of + Welcome Bay in the Sunda Straits, Pepper Bay on the east, and the Indian + Ocean on the south, had rushed in and formed a sea of turbulent waves. + </p> + <p> + DETONATIONS HEARD FOR MANY MILES AWAY + </p> + <p> + “On Monday night the volcano of Papandayang was in an active state of + paroxysmal eruption, accompanied by detonations which are said to have + been heard for many miles away. In Sumatra three distinct columns of flame + were seen to rise from a mountain to a vast height, and its whole surface + was soon covered with fiery lava streams, which spread to great distances + on all sides. Stones fell for miles around, and black fragmentary matter + carried into the air caused total darkness. A whirlwind accompanied the + eruption, by which house-roofs, trees, men, and horses were swept into the + air. The quantity of matter ejected was such as to cover the ground and + the roofs of the houses at Denamo to the depth of several inches. Suddenly + the scene changed. At first it was reported that Papandayang had been + split into seven distinct peaks. This proved untrue; but in the open seams + formed could be seen great balls of molten matter. From the fissures + poured forth clouds of steam and black lava, which, flowing in steady + streams, ran slowly down the mountain sides, forming beds 200 or 300 feet + in extent. At the entrance to Batavia was a large group of houses + extending along the shore, and occupied by Chinamen. This portion of the + city was entirely destroyed, and not many of the Chinese who lived on the + swampy plains managed to save their lives. They stuck to their homes till + the waves came and washed them away, fearing torrents of flame and lava + more than torrents of water. + </p> + <p> + “Of the 3,500 Europeans and Americans in Batavia—which for several + hours was in darkness, owing to the fall of ashes—800 perished at + Anjer. The European and American quarter was first overwhelmed by rocks, + mud and lava from the crater, and then the waters came up and swallowed + the ruins, leaving nothing to mark the site, and causing the loss of about + 200 lives of the inhabitants and those who sought refuge there.” + </p> + <p> + The loss of life above mentioned was but a small fraction of the total + loss. All along the coasts of the adjoining large islands towns and + villages were swept away and their inhabitants drowned, till the total + loss was, as nearly as could be estimated, 36,000 souls. Krakatoa thus + surpassed Mont Pelee in its tale of destruction. These two, indeed, have + been the most destructive to life of known volcanic explosions, since the + volcano usually falls far short of the earthquake in its murderous + results. + </p> + <p> + The distant effects of this explosion were as remarkable as the near ones. + The concussion of the air reached to an unprecedented distance and the + clouds of floating dust encircled the earth, producing striking phenomena + of which an account is given at the end of this chapter. + </p> + <p> + The rapidity with which the effects of the Krakatoa eruption made + themselves evident in all parts of the earth is perhaps the most + remarkable outcome of this extraordinary event. The floating pumice + reached the harbor of St. Paul on the 22nd of March, 1884, after having + made a voyage of some two hundred and sixty days at a rate of six-tenths + of a mile an hour. Immense quantities of pumice of a similar description, + and believed to have been derived from the same source, reached Tamatave + in Madagascar five months later, and no doubt much of it long continued to + float round the world. + </p> + <p> + SERIES OF ATMOSPHERIC WAVES + </p> + <p> + Another result of the eruption was the series of atmospheric waves, caused + by the disturbance in the atmosphere, which affected the barometer over + the entire world. The velocity with which these waves traveled has been + variously estimated at from 912.09 feet to 1066.29 feet per second. This + speed is, of course, very much inferior to that at which sound travels + through the air. Yet, in three distinct cases, the noise of the Krakatoa + explosions was plainly heard at a distance of at least 2,200 miles, and in + one instance—that recorded from Rodriguez—of nearly 3,000. The + sound travelled to Ceylon, Burmah, Manila, New Guinea and Western + Australia, places, however, within a radius of about 2,000 miles; out + Diego Garcia lies outside that area, and Rodriguez a thousand miles beyond + it. Six days subsequent to the explosion, after the atmospheric waves had + traveled four times round the globe, the barometer was still affected by + them. + </p> + <p> + Another result, similar in kind, was the extraordinary dissemination of + the great ocean wave, which in a like manner seems to have encircled the + earth, since high waves, without evident cause, appeared not only in the + Pacific, but at many places on the Atlantic coast within a few days after + the event. They were observed alike in England and at New York. The writer + happened to be at Atlantic City, on the New Jersey coast, at this time. It + was a period of calm, the winds being at rest, but, unheralded, there came + in an ocean wave of such height as to sweep away the ocean-front boardwalk + and do much other damage. He ascribed this strange wave at the time to the + Krakatoa explosion, and is of the same opinion still. + </p> + <p> + In addition to the account given of this extraordinary volcanic event, it + seems desirable to give Sir Robert S. Ball’s description of it in his + recent work, “The Earth’s Beginnings.” While repeating to some extent what + we have already said, it is worthy, from its freshness of description and + general readability, of a place here. + </p> + <p> + SIR ROBERT S. BALL’S DESCRIPTION + </p> + <p> + “Until the year 1883 few had ever heard of Krakatoa. It was unknown to + fame, as are hundreds of other gems of glorious vegetation set in tropical + waters. It was not inhabited, but the natives from the surrounding shores + of Sumatra and Java used occasionally to draw their canoes up on its + beach, while they roamed through the jungle in search of the wild fruits + that there abounded. It was known to the mariner who navigated the Straits + of Sunda, for it was marked on his charts as one of the perils of the + intricate navigation in those waters. It was no doubt recorded that the + locality had been once, or more than once, the seat of an active volcano. + In fact, the island seemed to owe its existence to some frightful eruption + of by-gone days; but for a couple of centuries there had been no fresh + outbreak. It almost seemed as if Krakatoa might be regarded as a volcano + that had become extinct. In this respect it would only be like many other + similar objects all over the globe, or like the countless extinct + volcanoes all over the moon. + </p> + <p> + “As the summer of 1883 advanced the vigor of Krakatoa, which had sprung + into notoriety at the beginning of the year, steadily increased and the + noises became more and more vehement; these were presently audible on + shores ten miles distant, and then twenty miles distant; and still those + noises waxed louder and louder, until the great thunders of the volcano, + now so rapidly developing, astonished the inhabitants that dwelt over an + area at least as large as Great Britain. And there were other symptoms of + the approaching catastrophe. With each successive convulsion a quantity of + fine dust was projected aloft into the clouds. The wind could not carry + this dust away as rapidly as it was hurled upward by Krakatoa, and + accordingly the atmosphere became heavily charged with suspended + particles. + </p> + <p> + “A pall of darkness thus hung over the adjoining seas and islands. Such + was the thickness and density of these atmospheric volumes of Krakatoa + dust that, for a hundred miles around, the darkness of midnight prevailed + at midday. Then the awful tragedy of Krakatoa took place. Many thousands + of the unfortunate inhabitants of the adjacent shores of Sumatra and Java + were destined never to behold the sun again. They were presently swept + away to destruction in an invasion of the shore by the tremendous waves + with which the seas surrounding Krakatoa were agitated. + </p> + <p> + “As the days of August passed by the spasms of Krakatoa waxed more and + more vehement. By the middle of that month the panic was widespread, for + the supreme catastrophe was at hand. On the night of Sunday, August 26, + 1883, the blackness of the dust-clouds, now much thicker than ever in the + Straits of Sunda and adjacent parts of Sumatra and Java, was only + occasionally illumined by lurid flashes from the volcano. + </p> + <p> + “At the town of Batavia, a hundred miles distant, there was no quiet that + night. The houses trembled with subterranean violence, and the windows + rattled as if heavy artillery were being discharged in the streets. And + still these efforts seemed to be only rehearsing for the supreme display. + By ten o’clock on the morning of Monday, August 27, 1883, the rehearsals + were over, and the performance began. An overture, consisting of two or + three introductory explosions, was succeeded by a frightful convulsion + which tore away a large part of the island of Krakatoa and scattered it to + the winds of heaven. In that final outburst all records of previous + explosions on this earth were completely broken. + </p> + <p> + AN EXTRAORDINARY NOISE + </p> + <p> + “This supreme effort it was which produced the mightiest noise that, so + far as we can ascertain, has ever been heard on this globe. It must have + been indeed a loud noise which could travel from Krakatoa to Batavia and + preserve its vehemence over so great a distance; but we should form a very + inadequate conception of the energy of the eruption of Krakatoa if we + thought that its sounds were heard by those merely a hundred miles off. + This would be little indeed compared with what is recorded on testimony + which it is impossible to doubt. + </p> + <p> + “Westward from Krakatoa stretches the wide expanse of the Indian Ocean. On + the opposite side from the Straits of Sunda lies the island of Rodriguez, + the distance from Krakatoa being almost three thousand miles. It has been + proved by evidence which cannot be doubted that the thunders of the great + volcano attracted the attention of an intelligent coast-guard on + Rodriguez, who carefully noted the character of the sounds and the time of + their occurrence. He had heard them just four hours after the actual + explosion, for this is the time the sound occupied on its journey. + </p> + <p> + A CONSTANT WIND + </p> + <p> + “This mighty incident at Krakatoa has taught us other lessons on the + constitution of our atmosphere. We previously knew little, or I might say + almost nothing, as to the conditions prevailing above the height of ten + miles overhead. It was Krakatoa which first gave us a little information + which was greatly wanted. How could we learn what winds were blowing at a + height four times as great as the loftiest mountain on the earth, and + twice as great as the loftiest altitude to which a balloon has ever + soared? No doubt a straw will show which way the wind blows, but there are + no straws up there. There was nothing to render the winds perceptible + until Krakatoa came to our aid. Krakatoa drove into those winds prodigious + quantities of dust. Hundreds of cubic miles of air were thus deprived of + that invisibility which they had hitherto maintained. + </p> + <p> + “With eyes full of astonishment men watched those vast volumes of Krakatoa + dust on a tremendous journey. Of course, every one knows the so-called + trade-winds on our earth’s surface, which blow steadily in fixed + directions, and which are of such service to the mariner. But there is yet + another constant wind. It was first disclosed by Krakatoa. Before the + occurrence of that eruption, no one had the slightest suspicion that far + up aloft, twenty miles over our heads, a mighty tempest is incessantly + hurrying, with a speed much greater than that of the awful hurricane which + once laid so large a part of Calcutta on the ground and slew so many of + its inhabitants. Fortunately for humanity, this new trade-wind does not + come within less than twenty miles of the earth’s surface. We are thus + preserved from the fearful destruction that its unintermittent blasts + would produce, blasts against which no tree could stand and which would, + in ten minutes, do as much damage to a city as would the most violent + earthquake. When this great wind had become charged with the dust of + Krakatoa, then, for the first, and, I may add, for the only time, it stood + revealed to human vision. Then it was seen that this wind circled round + the earth in the vicinity of the equator, and completed its circuit in + about thirteen days. + </p> + <p> + A VAST CLOUD Of DUST + </p> + <p> + “The dust manufactured by the supreme convulsion was whirled round the + earth in the mighty atmospheric current into which the volcano discharged + it. As the dust-cloud was swept along by this incomparable hurricane it + showed its presence in the most glorious manner by decking the sun and the + moon in hues of unaccustomed splendor and beauty. The blue color in the + sky under ordinary circumstances is due to particles in the air, and when + the ordinary motes of the sunbeam were reinforced by the introduction of + the myriads of motes produced by Krakatoa even the sun itself sometimes + showed a blue tint. Thus the progress of the great dust-cloud was traced + out by the extraordinary sky effects it produced, and from the progress of + the dust-cloud we inferred the movements of the invisible air current + which carried it along. Nor need it be thought that the quantity of + material projected from Krakatoa should have been inadequate to produce + effects of this world-wide description. Imagine that the material which + was blown to the winds of heaven by the supreme convulsion of Krakatoa + could be all recovered and swept into one vast heap. Imagine that the heap + were to have its bulk measured by a vessel consisting of a cube one mile + long, one mile broad and one mile deep; it has been estimated that even + this prodigious vessel would have to be filled to the brim at least ten + times before all the products of Krakatoa had been measured.” + </p> + <p> + It is not specially to the quantity of material ejected from Krakatoa that + it owes its reputation. Great as it was, it has been much surpassed. + Professor Judd says that the great eruptions of Papapandayang, in Java, in + 1772, of Skaptur Jokull, in Iceland, in 1783, and of Tamboro, in Sumbawa, + in 1815, were marked by the extrusion of much larger quantities of + material. The special feature of the Krakatoa eruption was its extreme + violence, which flung volcanic dust to a height probably never before + attained, and produced sea and air waves of an intensity unparalleled in + the records of volcanic action. Judd thinks this was due to the situation + of the crater, and the possible inflow through fissures of a great volume + of sea water to the interior lava, the result being the sudden production + of an enormous volume of steam. + </p> + <p> + EXTRAORDINARY RED SUNSETS + </p> + <p> + The red sunsets spoken of above were so extraordinary in character that a + fuller description of them seems advisable. A remarkable fact concerning + them is the great rapidity with which they were disseminated to distant + regions of the earth. They appeared around the entire equatorial zone in a + few days after the eruption, this doubtless being due to the great + rapidity with which the volcanic dust was carried by the upper air + current. They were seen at Rodriguez, 3,000 miles away, on August 28, and + within a week in every part of the torrid zone. From this zone they spread + north and south with less rapidity. Their first appearance in Australia + was on September 15th, and at the Cape of Good Hope on the 20th. On the + latter day they were observed in California and the Southern United + States. They were first seen in England on November 9th. Elsewhere in + Europe and the United States they appeared from November 20th to 30th. + </p> + <p> + The effect lasted in some instances as long as an hour and three-quarters + after sunset. In India the sun and skies assumed a greenish hue, and there + was much curiosity regarding the cause of the “green sun.” Another + remarkable phenomenon of this period was the great prevalence of rain + during the succeeding winter. This probably was due to the same cause; + that is, to the fact of the air being so filled with dust; the prevailing + theory in regard to rain being that the existence of dust in the air is + necessary to its fall. The vapor of the air concentrates into drops around + such minute particles, the result being that where dust is absent rain + cannot fall. + </p> + <p> + As regards the sunsets spoken of, there are three similar instances on + record. The first of these was in the year 526, when a dry fog covered the + Roman Empire with a red haze. Nothing further is known concerning it. The + other instances were in the years 1783 and 1831. The former of these has + been traced to the great eruption of Skaptur Jokull in that year. It + lasted for several months as a pale blue haze, and occasioned so much + obscurity that the sun was only visible when twelve degrees above the + horizon, and then it had a blood-red appearance. Violent thunderstorms + were associated with it, thus assimilating it with that of 1883. Alike in + 1783 and 1831 there was a pearly, phosphorescent gleam in the atmosphere, + by which small print could be read at midnight. We know nothing regarding + the meteorological conditions of 1831. + </p> + <p> + The red sunsets of 1883 were remarkable for their long persistence. They + were observed in the autumn of 1884 with almost their original brilliancy, + and they were still visible in 1885, being seen at intervals, as if the + dust was then distributed in patches, and driven about by the winds. In + fact, similar sunsets were occasionally visible for several years + afterwards. These may well have been due to the same cause, when we + consider with what extreme slowness very fine dust makes its way through + the air, and how much it may be affected by the winds. + </p> + <p> + THE RED SUNSETS DESCRIBED + </p> + <p> + One writer describes the appearance of these sunsets in the following + terms: “Immediately after sunset a patch of white light appeared ten or + fifteen degrees above the horizon, and shone for ten minutes with a pearly + lustre. Beneath it a layer of bright red rested on the horizon, melting + upward into orange, and this passed into yellow light, which spread around + the lucid spot. Next the white light grew of a rosy tint, and soon became + an intense rose hue. A vivid golden oriole yellow strip divided it from + the red fringe below and the rose red above.” This description, although + exaggerated, represents the general conditions of the phenomenon. + </p> + <p> + On October 20th, 1884, the author observed the sunset effect as follows: + “Immediately after the sun had set, a broad cone of silvery lustre rested + upon a horizon of smoky pink. After fifteen minutes the white became rose + color above and yellowish below, deepening to lemon color, and finally + into reddish tint, while the rose faded out. The whole cone gradually sank + and died away in the brownish red flush on the horizon, more than an hour + after sunset.” The time of duration varied, since, on the succeeding + evening, it lasted only a half-hour. These sunset effects, if we can + justly attribute them all to the Krakatoa eruption, were extraordinary not + alone for their intensity and beauty but for their extended duration, the + influence of this remarkable volcanic outbreak being visible for several + years after the event. + </p> + <p> + Though no doubt is entertained concerning the cause of the red sunset + effects of 1783 and 1883, that of 1831 is not so readily explained, there + having been no known volcanic explosion of great intensity in that year. + But in view of the fact that volcanoes exist in unvisited parts of the + earth, some of which may have been at work unknown to scientific man, this + difficulty is not insuperable. Possibly Mounts Erebus or Terror, the + burning mountains of the Antarctic zone, may, unseen by man, have prepared + for civilized lands this grand spectacular effect of Nature’s doings. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0028" id="link2HCH0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVIII. + </h2> + <h3> + Mount Pelee and its Harvest of Death. + </h3> + <p> + St. Pierre, the principal city of the French island of Martinique, in the + West Indies, lies for the length of about a mile along the island coast, + with high cliffs hemming it in, its houses climbing the slope, tier upon + tier. At one place where a river breaks through the cliffs, the city + creeps further up towards the mountains. As seen from the bay, its + appearance is picturesque and charming, with the soft tints of its tiles, + the grey of its walls, the clumps of verdure in its midst, and the wall of + green in the rear. Seen from its streets this beauty disappears, and the + chief attraction of the town is gone. + </p> + <p> + Back from the three miles of hills which sweep in an arc round the town, + is the noble Montagne Pelee lying several miles to the north of the city, + a mass of dark rock some four thousand feet high, with jagged outline, and + cleft with gorges and ravines, down which flow numerous streams, gushing + from the crater lake of the great volcano. + </p> + <p> + Though known to be a volcano, it was looked upon as practically extinct, + though as late as August, 1856, it had been in eruption. No lava at that + time came from its crater, but it hurled out great quantities of ashes and + mud, with strong sulphurous odor. Then it went to rest again, and slept + till 1902. + </p> + <p> + The people had long ceased to fear it. No one expected that grand old + Mount Pelee, the slumbering (so it was thought) tranquil old hill, would + ever spurt forth fire and death. This was entirely unlooked for. Mont + Pelee was regarded by the natives as a sort of protector; they had an + almost superstitious affection for it. From the outskirts of the city it + rose gradually, its sides grown thick with rich grass, and dotted here and + there with spreading shrubbery and drooping trees. There was no pleasanter + outing for an afternoon than a journey up the green, velvet-like sides of + the towering mountain and a view of the quaint, picturesque city + slumbering at its base. + </p> + <p> + A PEACEFUL SCENE + </p> + <p> + There were no rocky cliffs, no crags, no protruding boulders. The mountain + was peace itself. It seemed to promise perpetual protection. The poetic + natives relied upon it to keep back storms from the land and frighten, + with its stern brow, the tempests from the sea. They pointed to it with + profoundest pride as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. + </p> + <p> + Children played in its bowers and arbors; families picnicked there day + after day during the balmy weather; hundreds of tourists ascended to the + summit and looked with pleasure at the beautiful crystal lake which + sparkled and glinted in the sunshine. Mont Pelee was the place of + enjoyment of the people of St. Pierre. I can hear the placid natives say: + “Old Father Pelee is our protector—not our destroyer.” + </p> + <p> + Not until two weeks before the eruption did the slumbering mountain show + signs of waking to death and disaster. On the 23d of April it first + displayed symptoms of internal disquiet. A great column of smoke began to + rise from it, and was accompanied from time to time by showers of ashes + and cinders. + </p> + <p> + Despite these signals, there was nothing until Monday, May 5th, to + indicate actual danger. On that day a stream of smoking mud and lava burst + through the top of the crater and plunged into the valley of the River + Blanche, overwhelming the Guerin sugar works and killing twenty-three + workmen and the son of the proprietor. Mr. Guerin’s was one of the largest + sugar works on the island; its destruction entailed a heavy loss. The mud + which overwhelmed it followed the beds of streams towards the north of the + island. + </p> + <p> + The alarm in the city was great, but it was somewhat allayed by the report + of an expert commission appointed by the Governor, which decided that the + eruption was normal and that the city was in no peril. To further allay + the excitement, the Governor, with several scientists, took up his + residence in St. Pierre. He could not restrain the people by force, but + the moral effect of his presence and the decision of the scientists had a + similar disastrous result. + </p> + <p> + A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION BY A SUFFERER. + </p> + <p> + The existing state of affairs during these few waiting days is so + graphically given in a letter from Mrs. Thomas T. Prentis, wife of the + United States Consul at St. Pierre, to her sister in Melrose, a suburban + city of Boston, that we quote it here: + </p> + <p> + “My Dear Sister: This morning the whole population of the city is on the + alert and every eye is directed toward Mont Pelee, an extinct volcano. + Everybody is afraid that the volcano has taken into its heart to burst + forth and destroy the whole island. + </p> + <p> + “Fifty years ago Mont Pelee burst forth with terrific force and destroyed + everything within a radius of several miles. For several days the mountain + has been bursting forth in flame and immense quantities of lava are + flowing down its sides. + </p> + <p> + “All the inhabitants are going up to see it. There is not a horse to be + had on the island, those belonging to the natives being kept in readiness + to leave at a moment’s notice. + </p> + <p> + “Last Wednesday, which was April 23d, I was in my room with little + Christine, and we heard three distinct shocks. They were so great that we + supposed at first that there was some one at the door, and Christine went + and found no one there. The first report was very loud, and the second and + third were so great that dishes were thrown from the shelves and the house + was rocked. + </p> + <p> + “We can see Mont Pelee from the rear windows of our house, and although it + is fully four miles away, we can hear the roar of the fire and lava + issuing from it. + </p> + <p> + “The city is covered with ashes and clouds of smoke have been over our + heads for the last five days. The smell of sulphur is so strong that + horses on the streets stop and snort, and some of them are obliged to give + up, drop in their harness and die from suffocation. Many of the people are + obliged to wear wet handkerchiefs over their faces to protect them from + the fumes of sulphur. + </p> + <p> + “My husband assures me that there is no immediate danger, and when there + is the least particle of danger we will leave the place. There is an + American schooner, the R. F. Morse, in the harbor, and she will remain + here for at least two weeks. If the volcano becomes very bad we shall + embark at once and go out to sea. The papers in this city are asking if we + are going to experience another earthquake similar to that which struck + here some fifty years ago.” + </p> + <p> + THE FATEFUL EIGHTH OF MAY + </p> + <p> + The writer of this letter and her husband, Consul Prentis, trusted Mont + Pelee too long. They perished, with all the inhabitants of the city, in a + deadly flood of fire and ashes that descended on the devoted place on the + fateful morning of Thursday, May 8th. Only for the few who were rescued + from the ships in the harbor there would be scarcely a living soul to tell + that dread story of ruin and death. The most graphic accounts are those + given by rescued officers of the Roraima, one of the fleet of the Quebec + Steamship Co., trading with the West Indies. This vessel had left the + Island of Dominica for Martinique at midnight of Wednesday, and reached + St. Pierre about 7 o’clock Thursday morning. The greatest difficulty was + experienced in getting into port, the air being thick with falling ashes + and the darkness intense. The ship had to grope its way to the anchorage. + Appalling sounds were issuing from the mountain behind the town, which was + shrouded in darkness. The ashes were falling thickly on the steamer’s + deck, where the passengers and others were gazing at the town, some being + engaged in photographing the scene. + </p> + <p> + The best way in which we can describe a scene of which few lived to tell + the story, is to give the narratives of a number of the survivors. From + their several stories a coherent idea of the terrible scene can be formed. + From the various accounts given of the terrible explosion by officers of + the Roraima, we select as a first example the following description by + Assistant Purser Thompson: + </p> + <p> + A TALE OF SUDDEN RUIN + </p> + <p> + “I saw St. Pierre destroyed. It was blotted out by one great flash of + fire. Nearly 40,000 persons were all killed at once. Out of eighteen + vessels lying in the roads only one, the British steamship Roddam, + escaped, and she, I hear, lost more than half on board. It was a dying + crew that took her out. + </p> + <p> + “Our boat, the Roraima, of the Quebec Line, arrived at St. Pierre early + Thursday morning. For hours before we entered the roadstead we could see + flames and smoke rising from Mont Pelee. No one on board had any idea of + danger. Captain G. T. Muggah was on the bridge, and all hands got on deck + to see the show. + </p> + <p> + “The spectacle was magnificent. As we approached St. Pierre we could + distinguish the rolling and leaping of the red flames that belched from + the mountain in huge volumes and gushed high in to the sky. Enormous + clouds of black smoke hung over the volcano. + </p> + <p> + “When we anchored at St. Pierre I noticed the cable steamship Grappler, + the Roddam, three or four American schooners and a number of Italian and + Norwegian barks. The flames were then spurting straight up in the air, now + and then waving to one side or the other for a moment and again leaping + suddenly higher up. + </p> + <p> + “There was a constant muffled roar. It was like the biggest oil refinery + in the world burning up on the mountain top. There was a tremendous + explosion about 7.45 o’clock, soon after we got in. The mountain was blown + to pieces. There was no warning. The side of the volcano was ripped out, + and there was hurled straight toward us a solid wall of flame. It sounded + like thousands of cannon. + </p> + <p> + “The wave of fire was on us and over us like a lightning flash. It was + like a hurricane of fire. I saw it strike the cable steamship Grappler + broadside on and capsize her. From end to end she burst into flames and + then sank. The fire rolled in mass straight down upon St. Pierre and the + shipping. The town vanished before our eyes and the air grew stifling hot, + and we were in the thick of it. + </p> + <p> + “Wherever the mass of fire struck the sea the water boiled and sent up + vast clouds of steam. The sea was torn into huge whirlpools that careened + toward the open sea. + </p> + <p> + “One of these horrible hot whirlpools swung under the Roraima and pulled + her down on her beam ends with the suction. She careened way over to port, + and then the fire hurricane from the volcano smashed her, and over she + went on the opposite side. The fire wave swept off the masts and + smokestack as if they were cut with a knife. + </p> + <p> + HEAT CAUSED EXPLOSIONS + </p> + <p> + “Captain Muggah was the only one on deck not killed outright. He was + caught by the fire wave and terribly burned. He yelled to get up the + anchor, but, before two fathoms were heaved in the Roraima was almost + upset by the boiling whirlpool, and the fire wave had thrown her down on + her beam ends to starboard. Captain Muggah was overcome by the flames. He + fell unconscious from the bridge and toppled overboard. + </p> + <p> + “The blast of fire from the volcano lasted only a few minutes. It + shriveled and set fire to everything it touched. Thousands of casks of rum + were stored in St. Pierre, and these were exploded by the terrific heat. + The burning rum ran in streams down every street and out to the sea. This + blazing rum set fire to the Roraima several times. Before the volcano + burst the landings of St. Pierre were crowded with people. After the + explosion not one living being was seen on land. Only twenty-five of those + on the Roraima out of sixty-eight were left after the first flash. + </p> + <p> + “The French cruiser Suchet came in and took us off at 2 P. M. She remained + nearby, helping all she could, until 5 o’clock, then went to Fort de + France with all the people she had rescued. At that time it looked as if + the entire north end of the island was on fire.” + </p> + <p> + C. C. Evans, of Montreal, and John G. Morris, of New York, who were among + those rescued, say the vessel arrived at 6 o’clock. As eight bells were + struck a frightful explosion was heard up the mountain. A cloud of fire, + toppling and roaring, swept with lightning speed down the mountain side + and over the town and bay. The Roraima was nearly sunk, and caught fire at + once. + </p> + <p> + “I can never forget the horrid, fiery, choking whirlwind which enveloped + me,” said Mr. Evans. “Mr. Morris and I rushed below. We are not very badly + burned, not so bad as most of them. When the fire came we were going to + our posts (we are engineers) to weigh anchor and get out. When we came up + we found the ship afire aft, and fought it forward until 3 o’clock, when + the Suchet came to our rescue. We were then building a raft.” + </p> + <p> + “Ben” Benson, the carpenter of the Roraima, said: “I was on deck, + amidships, when I heard an explosion. The captain ordered me to up anchor. + I got to the windlass, but when the fire came I went into the forecastle + and got my ‘duds.’ When I came out I talked with Captain Muggah, Mr. + Scott, the first officer and others. They had been on the bridge. The + captain was horribly burned. He had inhaled flames and wanted to jump into + the sea. I tried to make him take a life-preserver. The captain, who was + undressed, jumped overboard and hung on to a line for a while. Then he + disappeared.” + </p> + <p> + THE COOPER’S STORY. + </p> + <p> + James Taylor, a cooper employed on the Roraima, gives the following + account of his experience of the disaster: + </p> + <p> + “Hearing a tremendous report and seeing the ashes falling thicker, I dived + into a room, dragging with me Samuel Thomas, a gangway man and fellow + countryman, shutting the door tightly. Shortly after I heard a voice, + which I recognized as that of the chief mate, Mr. Scott. Opening the door + with great caution, I drew him in. The nose of Thomas was burned by the + intense heat. + </p> + <p> + “We three and Thompson, the assistant purser, out of sixty-eight souls on + board, were the only persons who escaped practically uninjured. The heat + being unbearable, I emerged in a few moments, and the scene that presented + itself to my eyes baffles description. All around on the deck were the + dead and dying covered with boiling mud. There they lay, men, women and + little children, and the appeals of the latter for water were + heart-rending. When water was given them they could not swallow it, owing + to their throats being filled with ashes or burnt with the heated air. + </p> + <p> + “The ship was burning aft, and I jumped overboard, the sea being intensely + hot. I was at once swept seaward by a tidal wave, but, the sea receding a + considerable distance, the return wave washed me against an upturned sloop + to which I clung. I was joined by a man so dreadfully burned and + disfigured as to be unrecognizable. Afterwards I found he was the captain + of the Roraima, Captain Muggah. He was in dreadful agony, begging + piteously to be put on board his ship. + </p> + <p> + “Picking up some wreckage which contained bedding and a tool chest, I, + with the help of five others who had joined me on the wreck, constructed a + rude raft, on which we placed the captain. Then, seeing an upturned boat, + I asked one of the five, a native of Martinique, to swim and fetch it. + Instead of returning to us, he picked up two of his countrymen and went + away in the direction of Fort de France. Seeing the Roddam, which arrived + in port shortly after we anchored, making for the Roraima, I said good-bye + to the captain and swam back to the Roraima. + </p> + <p> + “The Roddam, however, burst into flames and put to sea. I reached the + Roraima at about half-past 2, and was afterwards taken off by a boat from + the French warship Suchet. Twenty-four others with myself were taken on to + Fort de France. Three of these died before reaching port. A number of + others have since died.” + </p> + <p> + Samuel Thomas, the gangway man, whose life was saved by the forethought of + Taylor, says that the scene on the burning ship was awful. The groans and + cries of the dying, for whom nothing could be done, were horrible. He + describes a woman as being burned to death with a living babe in her arms. + He says that it seemed as if the whole world was afire. + </p> + <p> + CONSUL AYME’S STATEMENT + </p> + <p> + The inflammable material in the forepart of the ship that would have + ignited that part of the vessel was thrown overboard by him and the other + two uninjured men. The Grappler, the telegraph company’s ship, was seen + opposite the Usine Guerin, and disappeared as if blown up by a submarine + explosion. The captain’s body was subsequently found by a boat from the + Suchet. + </p> + <p> + Consul Ayme, of Guadeloupe, who, as already stated, had hastened to Fort + de France on hearing of the terrible event, tells the story of the + disaster in the following words: + </p> + <p> + “Thursday morning the inhabitants of the city awoke to find heavy clouds + shrouding Mont Pelee crater. All day Wednesday horrid detonations had been + heard. These were echoed from St. Thomas on the north to Barbados on the + south. The cannonading ceased on Wednesday night, and fine ashes fell like + rain on St. Pierre. The inhabitants were alarmed, but Governor Mouttet, + who had arrived at St. Pierre the evening before, did everything possible + to allay the panic. + </p> + <p> + “The British steamer Roraima reached St. Pierre on Thursday with ten + passengers, among whom were Mrs. Stokes and her three children, and Mrs. + H. J. Ince. They were watching the rain of ashes, when, with a frightful + roar and terrific electric discharges, a cyclone of fire, mud and steam + swept down from the crater over the town and bay, sweeping all before it + and destroying the fleet of vessels at anchor off the shore. There the + accounts of the catastrophe so far obtainable cease. Thirty thousand + corpses are strewn about, buried in the ruins of St. Pierre, or else + floating, gnawed by sharks, in the surrounding seas. Twenty-eight charred, + half-dead human beings were brought here. Sixteen of them are already + dead, and only four of the whole number are expected to recover.” + </p> + <p> + A WOMAN’S EXPERIENCE ON THE “RORAIMA” + </p> + <p> + Margaret Stokes, the 9 year old daughter of the late Clement Stokes, of + New York, who, with her mother, a brother aged 4 and a sister aged 3 + years, was on the ill-fated steamer Roraima, was saved from that vessel, + but is not expected to live. Her nurse, Clara King, tells the following + story of her experience: + </p> + <p> + She says she was in her stateroom, when the steward of the Roraima called + out to her: + </p> + <p> + “Look at Mont Pelee.” + </p> + <p> + She went on deck and saw a vast mass of black cloud coming down from the + volcano. The steward ordered her to return to the saloon, saying, “It is + coming.” + </p> + <p> + Miss King then rushed to the saloon. She says she experienced a feeling of + suffocation, which was followed by intense heat. The afterpart of the + Roraima broke out in flames. Ben Benson, the carpenter of the Roraima, + severely burned, assisted Miss King and Margaret Stokes to escape. With + the help of Mr. Scott, the first mate of the Roraima, he constructed a + raft, with life preservers. Upon this Miss King and Margaret were placed. + </p> + <p> + While this was being done Margaret’s little brother died. Mate Scott + brought the child water at great personal danger, but it was unavailing. + Shortly after the death of the little boy Mrs. Stokes succumbed. Margaret + and Miss King eventually got away on the raft, and were picked up by the + steamer Korona. Mate Scott also escaped. Miss King did not sustain serious + injuries. She covered the face of Margaret with her dress, but still the + child was probably fatally burned. + </p> + <p> + The only woman known at that time to have survived the disaster at St. + Pierre was a negress named Fillotte. She was found in a cellar Saturday + afternoon, where she had been for three days. She was still alive, but + fearfully burned from head to toes. She died afterward in the hospital. + </p> + <p> + CAPTAIN FREEMAN’S THRILLING ACCOUNT + </p> + <p> + Of the vessels in the harbor of St. Pierre on the fateful morning, only + one, the British steamer Roddam, escaped, and that with a crew of whom few + reached the open sea alive. Those who did escape were terribly injured. + Captain Freeman, of this vessel, tells what he experienced in the + following thrilling language: + </p> + <p> + “St. Lucia, British West Indies, May 11.—The steamer Roddam, of + which I am captain, left St. Lucia at midnight of May 7, and was off St. + Pierre, Martinique, at 6 o’clock on the morning of the 8th. I noticed that + the volcano, Mont Pelee, was smoking, and crept slowly in toward the bay, + finding there among others the steamer Roraima, the telegraph repairing + steamer Grappler and four sailing vessels. I went to anchorage between 7 + and 8 and had hardly moored when the side of the volcano opened out with a + terrible explosion. A wall of fire swept over the town and the bay. The + Roddam was struck broadside by the burning mass. The shock to the ship was + terrible, nearly capsizing her. + </p> + <p> + AWFUL RESULTS + </p> + <p> + “Hearing the awful report of the explosion and seeing the great wall of + flames approaching the steamer, those on deck sought shelter wherever it + was possible, jumping into the cabin, the forecastle and even into the + hold. I was in the chart room, but the burning embers were borne by so + swift a movement of the air that they were swept in through the door and + port holes, suffocating and scorching me badly. I was terribly burned by + these embers about the face and hands, but managed to reach the deck. + Then, as soon as it was possible, I mustered the few survivors who seemed + able to move, ordered them to slip the anchor, leaped for the bridge and + ran the engine for full speed astern. The second and the third engineer + and a fireman were on watch below and so escaped injury. They did their + part in the attempt to escape, but the men on deck could not work the + steering gear because it was jammed by the debris from the volcano. We + accordingly went ahead and astern until the gear was free, but in this + running backward and forward it was two hours after the first shock before + we were clear of the bay. + </p> + <p> + “One of the most terrifying conditions was that, the atmosphere being + charged with ashes, it was totally dark. The sun was completely obscured, + and the air was only illuminated by the flames from the volcano and those + of the burning town and shipping. It seems small to say that the scene was + terrifying in the extreme. As we backed out we passed close to the + Roraima, which was one mass of blaze. The steam was rushing from the + engine room, and the screams of those on board were terrible to hear. The + cries for help were all in vain, for I could do nothing but save my own + ship. When I last saw the Roraima she was settling down by the stern. That + was about 10 o’clock in the morning. + </p> + <p> + “When the Roddam was safely out of the harbor of St. Pierre, with its + desolations and horrors, I made for St. Lucia. Arriving there, and when + the ship was safe, I mustered the survivors as well as I was able and + searched for the dead and injured. Some I found in the saloon where they + had vainly sought for safety, but the cabins were full of burning embers + that had blown in through the port holes. Through these the fire swept as + through funnels and burned the victims where they lay or stood, leaving a + circular imprint of scorched and burned flesh. I brought ten on deck who + were thus burned; two of them were dead, the others survived, although in + a dreadful state of torture from their burns. Their screams of agony were + heartrending. Out of a total of twenty-three on board the Roddam, which + includes the captain and the crew, ten are dead and several are in the + hospital. My first and second mates, my chief engineer and my supercargo, + Campbell by name, were killed. The ship was covered from stem to stern + with tons of powdered lava, which retained its heat for hours after it had + fallen. In many cases it was practically incandescent, and to move about + the deck in this burning mass was not only difficult but absolutely + perilous. I am only now able to begin thoroughly to clear and search the + ship for any damage done by this volcanic rain, and to see if there are + any corpses in out-of-the-way places. For instance, this morning, I found + one body in the peak of the forecastle. The body was horribly burned and + the sailor had evidently crept in there in his agony to die. + </p> + <p> + “On the arrival of the Roddam at St. Lucia the ship presented an appalling + appearance. Dead and calcined bodies lay about the deck, which was also + crowded with injured helpless and suffering people. Prompt assistance was + rendered to the injured by the authorities here and my poor, tortured men + were taken to the hospital. The dead were buried. I have omitted to + mention that out of twenty-one black laborers that I brought from Grenada + to help in stevedoring, only six survived. Most of the others threw + themselves overboard to escape a dreadful fate, but they met a worse one, + for it is an actual fact that the water around the ship was literally at a + boiling heat. The escape of my vessel was miraculous. The woodwork of the + cabins and bridge and everything inflammable on deck were constantly + igniting, and it was with great difficulty that we few survivors managed + to keep the flames down. My ropes, awnings, tarpaulins were completely + burned up. + </p> + <p> + “I witnessed the entire destruction of St. Pierre. The flames enveloped + the town in every quarter with such rapidity that it was impossible that + any person could be saved. As I have said, the day was suddenly turned to + night, but I could distinguish by the light of the burning town people + distractedly running about on the beach. The burning buildings stood out + from the surrounding darkness like black shadows. All this time the + mountain was roaring and shaking, and in the intervals between these + terrifying sounds I could hear the cries of despair and agony from the + thousands who were perishing. These cries added to the terror of the + scene, but it is impossible to describe its horror or the dreadful + sensations it produced. It was like witnessing the end of the world. + </p> + <p> + “Let me add that, after the first shock was over, the survivors of the + crew rendered willing help to navigate the ship to this port. Mr. + Plissoneau, our agent in Martinique, happening to be on board, was saved, + and I really believe that he is the only survivor of St. Pierre. As it is, + he is seriously burned on the hands and face. + </p> + <p> + “FREEMAN, + </p> + <p> + “Master British Steamship Roddam.” + </p> + <p> + THE “ETONA” PASSES ST. PIERRE + </p> + <p> + The British steamer Etona, of the Norton Line, stopped at St. Lucia to + coal on May 10th. Captain Cantell there visited the Roddam and had an + interview with Captain Freeman. On the 11th the Elona put to sea again, + passing St. Pierre in the afternoon. We subjoin her captain’s story: + </p> + <p> + “The weather was clear and we had a fine view, but the old outlines of St. + Pierre were not recognizable. Everything was a mass of blue lava, and the + formation of the land itself seemed to have changed. When we were about + eight miles off the northern end of the island Mount Pelee began to belch + a second time. Clouds of smoke and lava shot into the air and spread over + all the sea, darkening the sun. Our decks in a few minutes were covered + with a substance that looked like sand dyed a bluish tint, and which + smelled like phosphorus. For all that the day was clear, there was little + to be seen satisfactorily. Over the island there hung a blue haze. It + seemed to me that the formation, the topography, of the island was + altered. + </p> + <p> + “Everything seemed to be covered with a blue dust, such as had fallen + aboard us every day since we had been within the affected region. It was + blue lava dust. For more than an hour we scanned the coast with our + glasses, now and then discovering something that looked like a ruined + hamlet or collection of buildings. There was no life visible. Suddenly we + realized that we might have to fight for our lives as the Roddam’s people + had done. + </p> + <p> + “We were about four miles off the northern end of the island when suddenly + there shot up in the air to a tremendous height a column of smoke. The sky + darkened and the smoke seemed to swirl down upon us. In fact, it spread + all around, darkening the atmosphere as far as we could see. I called + Chief Engineer Farrish to the deck. + </p> + <p> + “‘Do you see that over there?’ I asked, pointing to the eruption, for it + was the second eruption of Mont Pelee. He saw it all right. Captain + Freeman’s story was fresh in my mind. + </p> + <p> + “‘Well, Farrish, rush your engines as they have never been rushed before,’ + I said to him. He went below, and soon we began to burn coal and pile up + the feathers in our forefoot. + </p> + <p> + “I was on watch with Second Officer Gibbs. At once we began to furl + awnings and make secure against fire. The crew were all showing an anxious + spirit, and everybody on board, including the four passengers, were + serious and apprehensive. + </p> + <p> + “We began to cut through the water at almost twelve knots. Ordinarily we + make ten knots. We could see no more of the land contour, but everything + seemed to be enveloped in a great cloud. There was no fire visible, but + the lava dust rained down upon us steadily. In less than an hour there + were two inches of it upon our deck. + </p> + <p> + “The air smelled like phosphorus. No one dared to look up to try to locate + the sun, because one’s eyes would fill with lava dust. Some of the blue + lava dust is sticking to our mast yet, although we have swabbed decks and + rigging again and again to be clear of it. + </p> + <p> + “After a little more than an hour’s fast running we saw daylight ahead and + began to breathe easier. If I had not talked with Captain Freeman and + heard from him just how the black swirl of wind and fire rolled down upon + him, I would not have been so apprehensive, but would have thought that + the darkness and cloud that came down upon us meant just an unusually + heavy squall.” + </p> + <p> + CHIEF ENGINEER FARRISH’S STORY + </p> + <p> + “The Etona’s run from Montevideo was a fast one—I think a record + breaker. We were 22 days and 21 hours from port to port. Off Martinique I + stared at the coast for about an hour, and then went below. The blue lava + that covered everything faded into the haze that hung over the island so + that nothing was distinctly visible. Through my glass I discovered a + stream of lava, though. It stretched down the mountain side, and seemed to + be flowing into the sea. It was not clearly and distinctly visible, + however. + </p> + <p> + “About 3 o’clock I went below to take forty winks. I had been in my berth + only a few minutes when the steward told me the captain wanted me on the + bridge. + </p> + <p> + “‘Do you see that, Farrish?’ he asked, pointing at the land. An outburst + of smoke seemed to be sweeping down upon us. It made me think of the + Roddam’s experience. Smoke and dust closed in about us, shutting out the + sunlight, and precipitating a fall of lava on our decks. + </p> + <p> + “‘Go below and drive her,’ said the captain, and I didn’t lose any time, I + can tell you. We burned coal as though it didn’t cost a cent. The safety + valve was jumping every second, even though we were making twelve knots an + hour. For two hours we kept up the pace, and then, running into clear + daylight, let the engines slow down and we all cheered up a bit.” + </p> + <p> + CAPTAIN CANTELL VISITS THE “RODDAM” + </p> + <p> + Captain Cantell went on board the Roddam, whose frightful condition he + thus describes: + </p> + <p> + “At St. Lucia, on May 11th, I went on board the British steamship Roddam, + which had escaped from the terrible volcanic eruption at Martinique two + days before. The state of the ship was enough to show that those on board + must have undergone an awful experience. + </p> + <p> + “The Roddam was covered with a mass of fine bluish gray dust or ashes of + cement-like appearance. In some parts it lay two feet deep on the decks. + This matter had fallen in a red-hot state all over the steamer, setting + fire to everything it struck that was burnable, and, when it fell on the + men on board, burning off limbs and large pieces of flesh. This was shown + by finding portions of human flesh when the decks were cleared of the + debris. The rigging, ropes, tarpaulins, sails, awnings, etc., were charred + or burned, and most of the upper stanchions and spars were swept overboard + or destroyed by fire. Skylights were smashed and cabins were filled with + volcanic dust. The scene of ruin was deplorable. + </p> + <p> + “The captain, though suffering the greatest agony, succeeded in navigating + his vessel safely to the port of Castries, St. Lucia, with eighteen dead + bodies on the deck and human limbs scattered about. A sailor stood by + constantly wiping the captain’s injured eyes. + </p> + <p> + “I think the performance of the Roddam’s captain was most wonderful, and + the more so when I saw his pitiful condition. I do not understand how he + kept up, yet when the steamer arrived at St. Lucia and medical assistance + was procured, this brave man asked the doctors to attend to the others + first and refused to be treated until this was done. + </p> + <p> + “My interview with the captain brought out this account. I left him in + good spirits and receiving every comfort. The sight of his face would + frighten anyone not prepared to see it.” + </p> + <p> + THE VIVID ACCOUNT OF M. ALBERT + </p> + <p> + To the accounts given by the survivors of the Roraima and the officers of + the Etona, it will be well to add the following graphic story told by M. + Albert, a planter of the island, the owner of an estate situated only a + mile to the northeast of the burning crater of Mont Pelee. His escape from + death had in it something of the marvellous. He says: + </p> + <p> + “Mont Pelee had given warning of the destruction that was to come, but we, + who had looked upon the volcano as harmless, did not believe that it would + do more than spout fire and steam, as it had done on other occasions. It + was a little before eight o’clock on the morning of May 8 that the end + came. I was in one of the fields of my estate when the ground trembled + under my feet, not as it does when the earth quakes, but as though a + terrible struggle was going on within the mountain. A terror came upon me, + but I could not explain my fear. + </p> + <p> + “As I stood still Mont Pelee seemed to shudder, and a moaning sound issued + from its crater. It was quite dark, the sun being obscured by ashes and + fine volcanic dust. The air was dead about me, so dead that the floating + dust seemingly was not disturbed. Then there was a rending, crashing, + grinding noise, which I can only describe as sounding as though every bit + of machinery in the world had suddenly broken down. It was deafening, and + the flash of light that accompanied it was blinding, more so than any + lightning I have ever seen. + </p> + <p> + “It was like a terrible hurricane, and where a fraction of a second before + there had been a perfect calm, I felt myself drawn into a vortex and I had + to brace myself firmly. It was like a great express train rushing by, and + I was drawn by its force. The mysterious force levelled a row of strong + trees, tearing them up by the roots and leaving bare a space of ground + fifteen yards wide and more than one hundred yards long. Transfixed I + stood, not knowing in what direction to flee. I looked toward Mont Pelee, + and above its apex there appeared a great black cloud which reached high + in the air. It literally fell upon the city of St. Pierre. It moved with a + rapidity that made it impossible for anything to escape it. From the cloud + came explosions that sounded as though all of the navies of the world were + in titanic combat. Lightning played in and out in broad forks, the result + being that intense darkness was followed by light that seemed to be of + magnifying power. + </p> + <p> + “That St. Pierre was doomed I knew, but I was prevented from seeing the + destruction by a spur of the hill that shut off the view of the city. It + is impossible for me to tell how long I stood there inert. Probably it was + only a few seconds, but so vivid were my impressions that it now seems as + though I stood as a spectator for many minutes. When I recovered + possession of my senses I ran to my house and collected the members of the + family, all of whom were panic stricken. I hurried them to the seashore, + where we boarded a small steamship, in which we made the trip in safety to + Fort de France. + </p> + <p> + “I know that there was no flame in the first wave that was sent down upon + St. Pierre. It was a heavy gas, like firedamp, and it must have + asphyxiated the inhabitants before they were touched by the fire, which + quickly followed. As we drew out to sea in the small steamship, Mont Pelee + was in the throes of a terrible convulsion. New craters seemed to be + opening all about the summit and lava was flowing in broad streams in + every direction. My estate was ruined while we were still in sight of it. + Many women who lived in St. Pierre escaped only to know that they were + left widowed and childless. This is because many of the wealthier men sent + their wives away, while they remained in St. Pierre to attend to their + business affairs.” + </p> + <p> + WHAT HAPPENED ON THE “HORACE” + </p> + <p> + The British steamer Horace experienced the effect of the explosion when + farther from land. After touching at Barbados, she reached the vicinity of + Martinique on May 9th, her decks being covered with several inches of dust + when she was a hundred and twenty-five miles distant. We quote engineer + Anderson’s story: + </p> + <p> + “On the afternoon of May 8 (Thursday) we noticed a peculiar haze in the + direction of Martinique. The air seemed heavy and oppressive. The weather + conditions were not at all unlike those which precede the great West + Indian hurricanes, but, knowing it was not the season of the year for + them, we all remarked in the engine room that there must be a heavy storm + approaching. + </p> + <p> + “Several of the sailors, experienced deep water seamen, laughed at our + prognostications, and informed us there would be no storm within the next + sixty hours, and insisted that, according to all fo’cas’le indications, a + dead calm was in sight. + </p> + <p> + “So unusually peculiar were the weather conditions that we talked of + nothing else during the evening. That night, in the direction of + Martinique, there was a very black sky, an unusual thing at this season of + the year, and a storm was apparently brewing in a direction from which + storms do not come at this season. + </p> + <p> + GREAT FLASHES OF LIGHT + </p> + <p> + “As the night wore on those on watch noticed what appeared to be great + flashes of lightning in the direction of Martinique. It seemed as though + the ordinary conditions were reversed, and even the fo’cas’le prophets + were unable to offer explanations. + </p> + <p> + “Occasionally, over the pounding of the engines and the rush of water, we + thought we could hear long, deep roars, not unlike the ending of a deep + peal of thunder. Several times we heard the rumble or roar, but at the + time we were not certain as to exactly what it was, or even whether we + really heard it. + </p> + <p> + “There would suddenly come great flashes of light from the dark bank + toward Martinique. Some of them seemed to spread over a great area, while + others appeared to spout skyward, funnel shaped. All night this continued, + and it was not until day came that the flashes disappeared. The dark bank + that covered the horizon toward Martinique, however, did not fade away + with the breaking of day, and at eight in the morning of the 9th (Friday) + the whole section of the sky in that direction seemed dark and troubled. + </p> + <p> + “About nine o’clock Friday morning I was sitting on one of the hatches aft + with some of the other engineers and officers of the ship, discussing the + peculiar weather phenomena. I noticed a sort of grit that got into my + mouth from the end of the cigar I was smoking. + </p> + <p> + “I attributed it to some rather bad coal which we had shipped aboard, and, + turning to Chief Engineer Evans, I remarked that ‘that coal was mighty + dirty,’ and he said that it was covering the ship with a sort of grit. + Then I noticed that grit was getting on my clothes, and finally some one + suggested that we go forward of the funnels, so we would not get dirt on + us. As we went forward we met one or two of the sailors from the + forecastle, who wanted to know about the dust that was falling on the + ship. Then we found that the grayish-looking ash was sifting all over the + ship, both forward and aft. + </p> + <p> + ASHES RAINED ON THE SHIP + </p> + <p> + “Every moment the ashes rained down all over the ship, and at the same + time grew thicker. A few moments later, the lookout called down that we + were running into a fog-bank dead ahead. Fog banks in that section are + unheard of at nine o’clock in the morning at this season, and we were more + than a hundred miles from land, and what could fog and sand be doing + there. + </p> + <p> + “Before we knew it, we went into the fog, which proved to be a big dense + bank of this same sand, and it rained down on us from every side. + Ventilators were quickly brought to their places, and later even the + hatches were battened down. The dust became suffocating, and the men at + times had all they could do to keep from choking. What the stuff was we + could not at first conjecture, or rather, we didn’t have much time to + speculate on it, for we had to get our ship in shape to withstand we + hardly knew what. + </p> + <p> + “At first we thought that the sand must have been blown from shore. Then + we decided that if the Captain’s figures were right we wouldn’t be near + enough to shore to have sand blow on us, and as we had just cleared + Barbados, we knew that the Captain’s figures had to be right. + </p> + <p> + “Just as the storm of sand was at its height, Fourth Engineer Wild was + nearly suffocated by it, but was easily revived. About this time it became + so dark that we found it necessary to start up the electric lights, and it + was not until after we got clear from the fog that we turned the current + off. In the meantime they had burned from nine o’clock in the morning + until after two in the afternoon. + </p> + <p> + THE ENGINE BECAME CHOKED + </p> + <p> + “Then there was another anxious moment shortly after nine o’clock. Third + Engineer Rennie had been running the donkey engine, when suddenly it + choked, and when he finally got it clear from the sand or ashes, he found + the valves were all cut out, and then it was we discovered that it was not + sand, but some sort of a composition that seemed to cut steel like emery. + Then came the danger that it would get into the valves of the engine and + cut them out, and for several moments all hands scurried about and helped + make the engine room tight, and even then the ash drifted in and kept all + the engine room force wiping the engines clear of it. + </p> + <p> + “Toward three o’clock in the afternoon of Friday we were practically clear + of the sand, but at eleven o’clock that night we ran into a second bank of + it, though not as bad as the first. We made some experiments, and found + the stuff was superior to emery dust. It cut deeper and quicker, and only + about half as much was required to do the work. We made up our minds we + would keep what came on board, as it was better than the emery dust and + much cheaper, so we gathered it up. + </p> + <p> + “That night there were more of the same electric phenomena toward + Martinique, but it was not until we got into St. Lucia, where we saw the + Roddam, that we learned of the terrible disaster at St. Pierre, and then + we knew that our sand was lava dust.” + </p> + <p> + The volcanic ash which fell on the decks of the Horace was ground as fine + as rifle powder, and was much finer than that which covered the decks of + the Etona. + </p> + <p> + Returning to the stories told by officers of the Roraima, of which a + number have been given, it seems desirable to add here the narrative of + Ellery S. Scott, the mate of the ruined ship, since it gives a vivid and + striking account of his personal experience of the frightful disaster, + with many details of interest not related by others. + </p> + <p> + MATE SCOTT’S GRAPHIC STORY + </p> + <p> + “We got to St. Pierre in the Roraima,” began Mr. Scott, “at 6.30 o’clock + on Thursday morning. That’s the morning the mountain and the town and the + ships were all sent to hell in a minute. + </p> + <p> + “All hands had had breakfast. I was standing on the fo’c’s’l head trying + to make out the marks on the pipes of a ship ‘way out and heading for St. + Lucia. I wasn’t looking at the mountain at all. But I guess the captain + was, for he was on the bridge, and the last time I heard him speak was + when he shouted, ‘Heave up, Mr. Scott; heave up.’ I gave the order to the + men, and I think some of them did jump to get the anchor up, but nobody + knows what really happened for the next fifteen minutes. I turned around + toward the captain and then I saw the mountain. + </p> + <p> + “Did you ever see the tide come into the Bay of Fundy. It doesn’t sneak in + a little at a time as it does ‘round here. It rolls in in waves. That’s + the way the cloud of fire and mud and white-hot stones rolled down from + that volcano over the town and over the ships. It was on us in almost no + time, but I saw it and in the same glance I saw our captain bracing + himself to meet it on the bridge. He was facing the fire cloud with both + hands gripped hard to the bridge rail, his legs apart and his knees braced + back stiff. I’ve seen him brace himself that same way many a time in a + tough sea with the spray going mast-head high and green water pouring + along the decks. + </p> + <p> + “I saw the captain, I say, at the same instant I saw that ruin coming down + on us. I don’t know why, but that last glimpse of poor Muggah on his + bridge will stay with me just as long as I remember St. Pierre and that + will be long enough. + </p> + <p> + “In another instant it was all over for him. As I was looking at him he + was all ablaze. He reeled and fell on the bridge with his face toward me. + His mustache and eyebrows were gone in a jiffy. His hat had gone, and his + hair was aflame, and so were his clothes from head to foot. I knew he was + conscious when he fell, by the look in his eyes, but he didn’t make a + sound. + </p> + <p> + “That all happened a long way inside of half a minute; then something new + happened. When the wave of fire was going over us, a tidal wave of the sea + came out from the shore and did the rest. That wall of rushing water was + so high and so solid that it seemed to rise up and join the smoke and + flame above. For an instant we could see nothing but the water and the + flame. + </p> + <p> + “That tidal wave picked the ship up like a canoe and then smashed her. + After one list to starboard the ship righted, but the masts, the bridge, + the funnel and all the upper works had gone overboard. + </p> + <p> + “I had saved myself from fire by jamming a metal ventilator cover over my + head and jumping from the fo’c’s’l head. Two St. Kitts negroes saved me + from the water by grabbing me by the legs and pulling me down into the + fo’c’s’l after them. Before I could get up three men tumbled in on top of + me. Two of them were dead. + </p> + <p> + “Captain Muggah went overboard, still clinging to the fragments of his + wrecked bridge. Daniel Taylor, the ship’s cooper, and a Kitts native + jumped overboard to save him. Taylor managed to push the captain on to a + hatch that had floated off from us and then they swam back to the ship for + more assistance, but nothing could be done for the captain. Taylor wasn’t + sure he was alive. The last we saw of him or his dead body it was drifting + shoreward on that hatch. + </p> + <p> + “Well, after staying in the fo’c’s’l about twenty minutes I went out on + deck. There were just four of us left aboard who could do anything. The + four were Thompson, Dan Taylor, Quashee, and myself. It was still raining + fire and hot rocks and you could hardly see a ship’s length for dust and + ashes, but we could stand that. There were burning men and some women and + two or three children lying around the deck. Not just burned, but burning, + then, when we got to them. More than half the ship’s company had been + killed in that first rush of flame. Some had rolled overboard when the + tidal wave came and we never saw so much as their bodies. The cook was + burned to death in his galley. He had been paring potatoes for dinner and + what was left of his right hand held the shank of his potato knife. The + wooden handle was in ashes. All that happened to a man in less than a + minute. The donkey engineman was killed on deck sitting in front of his + boiler. We found parts of some bodies—a hand, or an arm or a leg. + Below decks there were some twenty alive. + </p> + <p> + “The ship was on fire, of course, what was left of it. The stumps of both + masts were blazing. Aft she was like a furnace, but forward the flames had + not got below deck, so we four carried those who were still alive on deck + into the fo’c’s’l. All of them were burned and most of them were half + strangled. + </p> + <p> + “One boy, a passenger and just a little shaver [the four-year-old son of + the late Clement Stokes, above spoken of] was picked up naked. His hair + and all his clothing had been burned off, but he was alive. We rolled him + in a blanket and put him in a sailor’s bunk. A few minutes later we looked + at him and he was dead. + </p> + <p> + “My own son’s gone, too. It had been his trick at lookout ahead during the + dog watch that morning, when we were making for St. Pierre, so I supposed + at first when the fire struck us that he was asleep in his bunk and safe. + But he wasn’t. Nobody could tell me where he was. I don’t know whether he + was burned to death or rolled overboard and drowned. He was a likely boy. + He had been several voyages with me and would have been a master some day. + He used to say he’d make me mate. + </p> + <p> + “After getting all hands that had any life left in them below and ‘tended + to the best we could, the four of us that were left half way ship-shape + started in to fight the fire. We had case oil stowed forward. Thanks to + that tidal wave that cleared our decks there wasn’t much left to burn, so + we got the fire down so’s we could live on board with it for several hours + more and then the four turned to to knock a raft together out of what + timber and truck we could find below. Our boats had gone overboard with + the masts and funnel. + </p> + <p> + PREPARED TO TRUST TO LUCK + </p> + <p> + “We made that raft for something over thirty that were alive. We put + provisions on for two days and rigged up a make-shift mast and sail, for + we intended to go to sea. We were only three boats’ length from the shore, + but the shore was hell itself. We intended to put straight out and trust + to luck that the Korona, that was about due at St. Pierre, would pick us + up. But we did not have to risk the raft, for about 3 o’clock in the + afternoon, when we were almost ready to put the raft overboard, the Suchet + came along and took us all off. We thought for a minute just after we were + wrecked that we were to get help from a ship that passed us. We burned + blue lights, but she kept on. We learned afterward that she was the + Roddam.” + </p> + <p> + Soundings made off Martinique after the explosion showed that earthquake + effects of much importance had taken place under the sea bottom, which had + been lifted in some places and had sunk in others. While deep crevices had + been formed on the land, a still greater effect had seemingly been + produced beneath the water. During the explosion the sea withdrew several + hundred feet from its shore line, and then came back steaming with fury; + this indicating a lift and fall of the ocean bed off the isle. Soundings + made subsequently near the island found in one place a depth of 4,000 feet + where before it had been only 600 feet deep. The French Cable Company, + which was at work trying to repair the cables broken by the eruption, + found the bottom of the Caribbean Sea so changed as to render the old + charts useless. + </p> + <p> + New charts will need to be made for future navigation. The changes in sea + levels were not confined to the immediate centre of volcanic activity, but + extended as far north as Porto Rico, and it was believed that the seismic + wave would be found to have altered the ocean bed round Jamaica. Vessels + plying between St. Thomas, Martinique, St. Lucia and other islands found + it necessary to heave the lead while many miles at sea. + </p> + <p> + It is estimated that the sea had encroached from ten feet to two miles + along the coast of St. Vincent near Georgetown, and that a section on the + north of the island had dropped into the sea. Soundings showed seven + fathoms where before the eruption there were thirty-six fathoms of water. + Vessels that endeavored to approach St. Vincent toward the north reported + that it was impossible to get nearer than eight miles to the scene of the + catastrophe, and that at that distance the ocean was seriously perturbed + as from a submarine volcano, boiling and hissing continually. + </p> + <p> + In this connection the remarkable experience reported by the officers of + the Danish steamship Nordby, on the day preceding the eruption, is of much + interest, as seeming to show great convulsions of the sea bottom at a + point several hundred miles from Martinique. The following is the story + told by Captain Eric Lillien-skjold: + </p> + <p> + THE STRANGE EXPERIENCE OF THE “NORDBY” + </p> + <p> + “On May 5th,” the captain said, “we touched at St. Michael’s for water. We + had had an easy voyage from Girgenti, in Sicily, and we wanted to finish + an easy run here. We left St. Michael’s on the same day. Nothing worth + while talking about occurred until two days afterward—Wednesday, May + 7th. + </p> + <p> + “We were plodding along slowly that day. About noon I took the bridge to + make an observation. It seemed to be hotter than ordinary. I shed my coat + and vest and got into what little shade there was. As I worked it grew + hotter and hotter. I didn’t know what to make of it. Along about 2 o’clock + in the afternoon it was so hot that all hands got to talking about it. We + reckoned that something queer was coming off, but none of us could explain + what it was. You could almost see the pitch softening in the seams. + </p> + <p> + “Then, as quick as you could toss a biscuit over its rail, the Nordby + dropped—regularly dropped—three or four feet down into the + sea. No sooner did it do this than big waves, that looked like they were + coming from all directions at once, began to smash against our sides. This + was queerer yet, because the water a minute before was as smooth as I ever + saw it. I had all hands piped on deck and we battened down everything + loose to make ready for a storm. And we got it all right—the + strangest storm you ever heard tell of. + </p> + <p> + “There was something wrong with the sun that afternoon. It grew red and + then dark red and then, about a quarter after 2, it went out of sight + altogether. The day got so dark that you couldn’t see half a ship’s length + ahead of you. We got our lamps going, and put on our oilskins, ready for a + hurricane. All of a sudden there came a sheet of lightning that showed up + the whole tumbling sea for miles and miles. We sort of ducked, expecting + an awful crash of thunder, but it didn’t come. There was no sound except + the big waves pounding against our sides. There wasn’t a breath of wind. + </p> + <p> + “Well, sir, at that minute there began the most exciting time I’ve ever + been through, and I’ve been on every sea on the map for twenty-five years. + Every second there’d be waves 15 or 20 feet high, belting us head-on, + stern-on and broadside, all at once. We could see them coming, for without + any stop at all flash after flash of lightning was blazing all about us. + </p> + <p> + “Something else we could see, too. Sharks! There were hundreds of them on + all sides, jumping up and down in the water. Some of them jumped clear out + of it. And sea birds! A flock of them, squawking and crying, made for our + rigging and perched there. They seemed like they were scared to death. But + the queerest part of it all was the water itself. It was hot—not so + hot that our feet could not stand it when it washed over the deck, but hot + enough to make us think that it had been heated by some kind of a fire. + </p> + <p> + “Well that sort of thing went on hour after hour. The waves, the + lightning, the hot water and the sharks, and all the rest of the odd + things happening, frightened the crew out of their wits. Some of them + prayed out loud—I guess the first time they ever did in their lives. + Some Frenchmen aboard kept running around and yelling, ‘Cest le dernier + jour!’ (This is the last day.) We were all worried. Even the officers + began to think that the world was coming to an end. Mighty strange things + happen on the sea, but this topped them all. + </p> + <p> + “I kept to the bridge all night. When the first hour of morning came the + storm was still going on. We were all pretty much tired out by that time, + but there was no such thing as trying to sleep. The waves still were + batting us around and we didn’t know whether we were one mile or a + thousand miles from shore. At 2 o’clock in the morning all the queer + goings on stopped just the way they began—all of a sudden. We lay to + until daylight; then we took our reckonings and started off again. We were + about 700 miles off Cape Henlopen. + </p> + <p> + “No, sir; you couldn’t get me through a thing like that again for $10,000. + None of us was hurt, and the old Nordby herself pulled through all right, + but I’d sooner stay ashore than see waves without wind and lightning + without thunder.” + </p> + <p> + FIERY STREAM CONTAINED POISONOUS GASES + </p> + <p> + Careful inspection showed that the fiery stream which so completely + destroyed St. Pierre must have been composed of poisonous gases, which + instantly suffocated every one who inhaled them, and of other gases + burning furiously, for nearly all the victims had their hands covering + their mouths, or were in some other attitude showing that they had + perished from suffocation. + </p> + <p> + It is believed that Mont Pelee threw off a great gasp of some exceedingly + heavy and noxious gas, something akin to firedamp, which settled upon the + city and rendered the inhabitants insensible. This was followed by the + sheet of flame that swept down the side of the mountain. This theory is + sustained by the experience of the survivors who were taken from the ships + in the harbor, as they say that their first experience was one of + faintness. + </p> + <p> + The dumb animals were wiser than man, and early took warning of the storm + of fire which Mont Pelee was storing up to hurl upon the island. Even + before the mountain began to rumble, late in April, live stock became + uneasy, and at times were almost uncontrollable. Cattle lowed in the + night. Dogs howled and sought the company of their masters, and when + driven forth they gave every evidence of fear. + </p> + <p> + Wild animals disappeared from the vicinity of Mont Pelee. Even the snakes, + which at ordinary times are found in great numbers near the volcano, + crawled away. Birds ceased singing and left the trees that shaded the + sides of Pelee. A great fear seemed to be upon the island, and though it + was shared by the human inhabitants, they alone neglected to protect + themselves. + </p> + <p> + Of the villages in the vicinity of St. Pierre only one escaped, the others + suffering the fate of the city. The fortunate one was Le Carbet, on the + south, which escaped uninjured, the flood of lava stopping when within two + hundred feet of the town. Morne Rouge, a beautiful summer resort, + frequented by the people of the island during the hot season as a place of + recreation, also escaped. In the height of the season several thousand + people gathered there, though at the time of the explosion there were but + a few hundred. Though located on an elevation between the city and the + crater, it was by great good fortune saved. + </p> + <p> + The Governor of Martinique, Mr. Mouttet, whose precautions to prevent the + people fleeing from the city aided to make the work of death complete, was + himself among the victims of the burning mountain. With him in this fate + was Colonel Dain, commander of the troops who formed a cordon round the + doomed city. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0029" id="link2HCH0029"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIX. + </h2> + <h3> + St. Vincent Island and Mont Soufriere in 1812. + </h3> + <p> + Among all the islands of the Caribbees St. Vincent is unique in natural + wonders and beauties. Situated about ninety-five miles west of Barbados, + it has a length of eighteen and a width of eleven miles, the whole mass + being largely composed of a single peak which rises from the ocean’s bed. + From north to south volcanic hills traverse its length, their ridges + intersected by fertile and beautiful valleys. + </p> + <p> + A ridge of mountains crosses the island, dividing it into eastern and + western parts. Kingstown, the capital, a town of 8,000 inhabitants, is on + the southward side and extends along the shores of a beautiful bay, with + mountains gradually rising behind it in the form of a vast amphitheatre. + Three streets, broad and lined with good houses, run parallel to the + water-front. There are many other intersecting highways, some of which + lead back to the foothills, from which good roads ascend the mountains. + </p> + <p> + The majority of the houses have red tile roofing and a goodly number of + them are of stone, one story high, with thick walls after the Spanish + style—the same types of houses that were in St. Pierre and which are + not unlike the old Roman houses which in all stages of ruin and + semi-preservation are found in Pompeii to this day. + </p> + <p> + Behind the general group of the houses of the town loom the Governor’s + residence and the buildings of the botanical gardens which overlook the + town. + </p> + <p> + Kingstown is the trading centre and the town of importance in the island. + It contains the churches and chapels of five Protestant denominations and + a number of excellent schools. Away from Kingstown, and the smaller + settlement of Georgetown, the population is almost wholly rural, occupying + scattered villages which consist of negro huts clustering around a few + substantial buildings or of cabins grouped about old plantation buildings + somewhat after the ante-bellum fashion in our own Southern States. + </p> + <p> + One of the tragedies of the West Indies was the sinking of old Port Royal, + the resort of buccaneers, in 1692. The harbor of Kingstown is commonly + supposed to cover the site of the old settlement. There is a tradition + that a buoy for many years was attached to the spire of a sunken church in + order to warn mariners. Three thousand persons perished in the disaster. + </p> + <p> + DESCENDANTS OF ORIGINAL INDIAN POPULATION + </p> + <p> + The northern portion of the island, that desolated by the recent volcanic + eruption, was inhabited by people living in the manner just described, the + great majority of them being negroes. The total population of the island + is about 45,000, of whom 30,000 are Africans and about 3,000 Europeans, + the remainder being nearly all Asiatics. There are, or rather were, a + number of Caribs, the descendants of the original warlike Indian + population of these islands. Many of these live in St. Vincent, though + there are others in Dominico. As their residence was in the northern + section of the island, the volcano seems to have completed the work for + the Caribs of this island which the Spaniard long ago began. These Caribs + were really half-breds, having amalgamated with the negroes. Many of the + blacks own land of their own, raising arrow root, which, since the decay + of the sugar industry, is the chief export. + </p> + <p> + In an island only eighteen miles long by eleven broad there is not room + for any distinctly marked mountain range. The whole of St. Vincent, in + fact, is a fantastic tumble of hills, culminating in the volcanic ridge + which runs lengthwise of the oval-shaped island. The culminating peak of + the great volcanic mass, for St. Vincent is nothing more, is Mont Garou, + of which La Soufriere is a sort of lofty excrescence in the northwest, + 4,048 feet high, and flanking the main peak at some distance away. + </p> + <p> + It may be said that all the volcanic mountains in this part of the West + Indies have what the people call a “soufriere”—a “sulphur pit,” or + “sulphur crater”—the name coming, as in the case of past + disturbances of Mont Pelee, from the strong stench of sulphuretted + hydrogen which issues from them when the volcano becomes agitated. + </p> + <p> + In 1812 it was La Soufriere adjacent to Mont Garou which broke loose on + the island of St. Vincent, and it is the same Soufriere which again has + devastated the island and has bombarded Kingstown with rocks, lava and + ashes. + </p> + <p> + The old crater of Mont Garou has long been extinct, and, like the old + crater of Mont Pelee, near St. Pierre, it had far down in its depths, + surrounded by sheer cliffs from 500 to 800 feet high, a lake. Glimpses of + the lake of Mont Garou are difficult to get, owing to the thick verdure + growing about the dangerous edges of the precipices, but those who have + seen it describe it as a beautiful sheet of deep blue water. + </p> + <p> + THE APPEARANCE OF THE SOUFRIERE + </p> + <p> + Previous to the eruption of 1812 the appearance of the Soufriere was most + interesting. The crater was half a mile in diameter and five hundred feet + in depth. In its centre was a conical hill, fringed with shrubs and vines; + at whose base were two small lakes, one sulphurous, the other pure and + tasteless. This lovely and beautiful spot was rendered more interesting by + the singularly melodious notes of a bird, an inhabitant of these upper + solitudes, and altogether unknown to the other parts of the island—hence + called, or supposed to be, “invisible,” as it had never been seen. (It is + of interest to state that Frederick A. Ober, in a visit to the island some + twenty years ago, succeeded in obtaining specimens of this previously + unknown bird.) From the fissures of the cone a thin white smoke exuded, + occasionally tinged with a light blue flame. Evergreens, flowers and + aromatic shrubs clothed the steep sides of the crater, which made, as the + first indication of the eruption on April 27, 1812, a tremulous noise in + the air. A severe concussion of the earth followed, and then a column of + thick black smoke burst from the crater. + </p> + <p> + THE ERUPTION OF 1812 + </p> + <p> + The eruption which followed these premonitory symptoms was one of the most + terrific which had occurred in the West Indies up to that time. It was the + culminating event which seemed to relieve a pressure within the earth’s + crust which extended from the Mississippi Valley to Caracas, Venezuela, + producing terrible effects in the latter place. Here, thirty-five days + before the volcanic explosion, the ground was rent and shaken by a + frightful earthquake which hurled the city in ruins to the ground and + killed ten thousand of its inhabitants in a moment of time. + </p> + <p> + La Soufriere made the first historic display of its hidden powers in 1718, + when lava poured from its crater. A far more violent demonstration of its + destructive forces was that above mentioned. On this occasion the eruption + lasted for three days, ruining a number of the estates in the vicinity and + destroying many lives. Myriads of tons of ashes, cinders, pumice and + scoriae, hurled from the crater, fell in every section of the island. + Volumes of sand darkened the air, and woods, ridges and cane fields were + covered with light gray ashes, which speedily destroyed all vegetation. + The sun for three days seemed to be in a total eclipse, the sea was + discolored and the ground bore a wintry appearance from the white crust of + fallen ashes. + </p> + <p> + Carib natives who lived at Morne Rond fled from their houses to Kingstown. + As the third day drew to a close flames sprang pyramidically from the + crater, accompanied by loud thunder and electric flashes, which rent the + column of smoke hanging over the volcano. Eruptive matter pouring from the + northwest side plunged over the cliff, carrying down rocks and woods in + its course. The island was shaken by an earthquake and bombarded with + showers of cinders and stones, which set houses on fire and killed many of + the natives. + </p> + <p> + THE TERRIBLE EARTHQUAKE AT CARACAS + </p> + <p> + For nearly two years before this explosion earthquakes had been common, + and sea and land had been agitated from the valley of the Mississippi to + the coasts of Venezuela and the mountains of New Grenada, and from the + Azores to the West Indies. On March 26, 1812, these culminated in the + terrible tragedy, spoken of above, of which Humboldt gives us a vivid + account. + </p> + <p> + On that day the people of the Venezuelan city of Caracas were assembled in + the churches, beneath a still and blazing sky, when the earth suddenly + heaved and shook, like a great monster waking from slumber, and in a + single minute 10,000 people were buried beneath the walls of churches and + houses, which tumbled in hideous ruin upon their heads. The same + earthquake made itself felt along the whole line of the Northern + Cordilleras, working terrible destruction, and shook the earth as far as + Santa Fe de Bogota and Honda, 180 leagues from Caracas. This was a + preliminary symptom of the internal disorder of the earth. + </p> + <p> + While the wretched inhabitants of Caracas who had escaped the earthquake + were dying of fever and starvation, and seeking among villages and farms + places of safety from the renewed earthquake shocks, the almost forgotten + volcano of St. Vincent was muttering in suppressed wrath. For twelve + months it had given warning, by frequent shocks of the earth, that it was + making ready to play its part in the great subterranean battle. On the + 27th of April its deep-hidden powers broke their bonds, and the conflict + between rock and fire began. + </p> + <p> + THE MOUNTAIN STONES A HERD-BOY + </p> + <p> + The first intimation of the outbreak was rather amusing than alarming. A + negro boy was herding cattle on the mountain side. A stone fell near him. + Another followed. He fancied that some other boys were pelting him from + the cliff above, and began throwing stones upward at his fancied concealed + tormentors. But the stones fell thicker, among them some too large to be + thrown by any human hand. Only then did the little fellow awake to the + fact that it was not a boy like himself, but the mighty mountain, that was + flinging these stones at him. He looked up and saw that the black column + which was rising from the crater’s mouth was no longer harmless vapor, but + dust, ashes and stones. Leaving the cattle to their fate, he fled for his + life, while the mighty cannon of the Titans roared behind him as he ran. + For three days and nights this continued; then, on the 30th, a stream of + lava poured over the crater’s rim and rushed downward, reaching the sea in + four hours, and the great eruption was at an end. + </p> + <p> + On the same day, says Humboldt, at a distance of more than 200 leagues, + “the inhabitants not only of Caracas, but of Calabozo, situated in the + midst of the Lianos, over a space of 4,000 square leagues, were terrified + by a subterranean noise which resembled frequent discharges of the + heaviest cannon. It was accompanied by no shock, and, what is very + remarkable, was as loud on the coast as at eighty leagues’ distance + inland, and at Caracas, as well as at Calabozo, preparations were made to + put the place in defence against an enemy who seemed to be advancing with + heavy artillery.” + </p> + <p> + It was no enemy that man could deal with. Fortunately, it confined its + assault to deep noises, and desisted from earthquake shocks. Similar + noises were heard in Martinique and Guadeloupe, and here also without + shocks. The internal thunder was the signal of what was taking place on + St. Vincent. With this last warning sound the trouble, which had lasted so + long, was at an end. The earthquakes which for two years had shaken a + sheet of the earth’s surface larger than half Europe, were stilled by the + eruption of St. Vincent’s volcanic peak. + </p> + <p> + BARBADOS COVERED WITH ASHES + </p> + <p> + Northeast of the original crater of the Soufriere a new one was formed + which was a half mile in diameter and five hundred feet deep. The old + crater was in time transformed into a beautiful blue lake, as above + stated, walled in by ragged cliffs to a height of eight hundred feet. + </p> + <p> + It was looked upon as a remarkable circumstance that although the air was + perfectly calm during the eruption, Barbados, which is ninety-five miles + to the windward, was covered inches deep with ashes. The inhabitants there + and on other neighboring islands were terrified by the darkness, which + continued for four hours and a half. Troops were called under arms, the + supposition from the continued noise being that hostile fleets were in an + engagement. + </p> + <p> + The movement of the ashes to windward, as just stated, was viewed as a + remarkable phenomenon, and is cited by Elise Reclus, in “The Ocean,” to + show the force of different aerial currents; “On the first day of May, + 1812, when the northeast trade-wind was in all its force, enormous + quantities of ashes obscured the atmosphere above the Island of Barbados, + and covered the ground with a thick layer. One would have supposed that + they came from the volcanoes of the Azores, which were to the northeast; + nevertheless they were cast up by the crater in St. Vincent, one hundred + miles to the west. It is therefore certain that the debris had been + hurled, by the force of the eruption, above the moving sheet of the + trade-winds into an aerial river proceeding in a contrary direction.” For + this it must have been hurled miles high into the air, till caught by the + current of the anti-trade winds. + </p> + <p> + KINGSLEY’S VISIT TO SAINT VINCENT + </p> + <p> + From Charles Kingsley’s “At Last” we extract, from the account of the + visit of the author to St. Vincent, some interesting matter concerning the + 1812 eruption and its effect on the mountain; also its influence upon + distant Barbados, as just stated. + </p> + <p> + “The strangest fact about this eruption was, that the mountain did not + make use of its old crater. The original vent must have become so jammed + and consolidated, in the few years between 1785 and 1812, that it could + not be reopened, even by a steam force the vastness of which may be + guessed at from the vastness of the area which it had shaken for two + years. So, when the eruption was over, it was found that the old + crater-lake, incredible as it may seem, remained undisturbed, so far as + has been ascertained; but close to it, and separated only by a knife-edge + of rock some 700 feet in height, and so narrow that, as I was assured by + one who had seen it, it is dangerous to crawl along it, a second crater, + nearly as large as the first, had been blasted out, the bottom of which, + in like manner, was afterward filled with water. + </p> + <p> + “I regretted much that I could not visit it. Three points I longed to + ascertain carefully—the relative heights of the water in the two + craters; the height and nature of the spot where the lava stream issued; + and, lastly, if possible, the actual causes of the locally famous Rabacca, + or ‘Dry River,’ one of the largest streams in the island, which was + swallowed up during the eruption, at a short distance from its source, + leaving its bed an arid gully to this day. But it could not be, and I owe + what little I know of the summit of the soufriere principally to a most + intelligent and gentleman-like young Wesleyan minister, whose name has + escaped me. He described vividly, as we stood together on the deck, + looking up at the volcano, the awful beauty of the twin lakes, and of the + clouds which, for months together, whirl in and out of the cups in + fantastic shapes before the eddies of the trade wind. + </p> + <p> + BLACK SUNDAY AT BARBADOS + </p> + <p> + “The day after the explosion, ‘Black Sunday,’ gave a proof of, though no + measure of, the enormous force which had been exerted. Eighty miles to + windward lies Barbados. All Saturday a heavy cannonading had been heard to + the eastward. The English and French fleets were surely engaged. The + soldiers were called out; the batteries manned; but the cannonade died + away, and all went to bed in wonder. On the 1st of May the clocks struck + six, but the sun did not, as usual in the tropics, answer to the call. The + darkness was still intense, and grew more intense as the morning wore on. + A slow and silent rain of impalpable dust was falling over the whole + island. The negroes rushed shrieking into the streets. Surely the last day + was come. The white folk caught (and little blame to them) the panic, and + some began to pray who had not prayed for years. The pious and the + educated (and there were plenty of both in Barbados) were not proof + against the infection. Old letters describe the scene in the churches that + morning as hideous—prayers, sobs, and cries, in Stygian darkness, + from trembling crowds. And still the darkness continued and the dust fell. + </p> + <p> + INCIDENTS AT BARBADOS + </p> + <p> + “I have a letter written by one long since dead, who had at least powers + of description of no common order, telling how, when he tried to go out of + his house upon the east coast, he could not find the trees on his own lawn + save by feeling for their stems. He stood amazed not only in utter + darkness, but in utter silence; for the trade-wind had fallen dead, the + everlasting roar of the surf was gone, and the only noise was the crashing + of branches, snapped by the weight of the clammy dust. He went in again, + and waited. About one o’clock the veil began to lift; a lurid sunlight + stared in from the horizon, but all was black overhead. Gradually the dust + drifted away; the island saw the sun once more, and saw itself inches deep + in black, and in this case fertilizing, dust. The trade-wind blew suddenly + once more out of the clear east, and the surf roared again along the + shore. + </p> + <p> + “Meanwhile a heavy earthquake-wave had struck part at least of the shores + of Barbados. The gentleman on the east coast, going out, found traces of + the sea, and boats and logs washed up some ten to twenty feet above + high-tide mark; a convulsion which seemed to have gone unmarked during the + general dismay. + </p> + <p> + “One man at least, an old friend of John Hunter, Sir Joseph Banks and + others their compeers, was above the dismay, and the superstitious panic + which accompanied it. Finding it still dark when he rose to dress, he + opened (so the story used to run) his window; found it stick, and felt + upon the sill a coat of soft powder. ‘The volcano in St. Vincent has + broken out at last,’ said the wise man, ‘and this is the dust of it.’ So + he quieted his household and his negroes, lighted his candles, and went to + his scientific books, in that delight, mingled with an awe not the less + deep, because it is rational and self-possessed, with which he, like the + other men of science, looked at the wonders of this wondrous world.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0030" id="link2HCH0030"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXX. + </h2> + <h3> + Submarine Volcanoes and their Work of Island Building. + </h3> + <p> + In November, 1867, a volcano suddenly began to show signs of activity + beneath the deep sea of the Pacific Ocean. There are some islands nearly + two thousands miles to the east of Australia called the Navigator’s Group, + in which there had been no history of an eruption, nor had such an event + been handed down by tradition. Most of the islands in the Pacific Ocean + are old volcanoes, or are made up of rocks cast forth from extinct burning + mountains. They rise up like peaks through the great depths of the ocean, + and the top, which just appears above the sea-level, is generally + encircled by a growth of coral. Hence they are termed coral islands. These + islands every now and then rise higher than the sea-level, owing to some + deep upheaving force, and then the coral is lifted up above the water, and + become a solid rock. But occasionally the reverse of this takes place, and + the islands begin to sink into the sea, owing to a force which causes the + base of the submarine mountain to become depressed. Sometimes they + disappear. All this shows that some great disturbing forces are in action + at the bottom of the sea, and just within the earth’s crust, and that they + are of a volcanic nature. + </p> + <p> + For some time before the eruption in question, earthquakes shook the + surrounding islands of the Navigator’s Group, and caused great alarm, and + when the trembling of the earth was very great, the sea began to be + agitated near one of the islands, and vast circles of disturbed water were + formed. Soon the water began to be forced upwards, and dead fish were seen + floating about. After a while, steam rushed forth, and jets of mud and + volcanic sand. Moreover, when the steam began to rush up out of the water, + the violence of the general agitation of the land and of the surface of + the sea increased. + </p> + <p> + AN ERUPTION DESCRIBED + </p> + <p> + When the eruption was at its height vast columns of mud and masses of + stone rushed into the air to a height of 2,000 feet, and the fearful crash + of masses of rock hurled upwards and coming in collision with others which + were falling attested the great volume of ejected matter which accumulated + in the bed of the ocean, although no trace of a volcano could be seen + above the surface of the sea. Similar submarine volcanic action has been + observed in the Atlantic Ocean, and crews of ships have reported that they + have seen in different places sulphurous smoke, flame, jets of water, and + steam, rising up from the sea, or they have observed the waters greatly + discolored and in a state of violent agitation, as if boiling in large + circles. + </p> + <p> + New shoals have also been encountered, or a reef of rocks just emerging + above the surface, where previously there was always supposed to have been + deep water. On some few occasions, the gradual building up of an island by + submarine volcanoes has been observed, as that of Sabrina in 1181, off St. + Michael’s, in the Azores. The throwing up of ashes in this case, and the + formation of a conical hill 300 feet high, with a crater out of which + spouted lava and steam, took place very rapidly. But the waves had the + best of it, and finally washed Sabrina into the depths of the ocean. + Previous eruptions in the same part of the sea were recorded as having + happened in 1691 and 1720. + </p> + <p> + In 1831, a submarine volcanic eruption occurred in the Mediterranean Sea, + between Sicily and that part of the African coast where Carthage formerly + stood. A few years before, Captain Smyth had sounded the spot in a survey + of the sea ordered by Government, and he found the sea-bottom to be under + 500 feet of water. On June 28, about a fortnight before the eruption was + visible, Sir Pulteney Malcom, in passing over the spot in his ship, felt + the shock of an earthquake as if he had struck on a sandbank, and the same + shocks were felt on the west coast of Sicily, in a direction from + south-west to north-east. + </p> + <p> + BUILDING UP OF AN ISLAND BY SUBMARINE VOLCANOES + </p> + <p> + About July 10, the captain of a Sicilian vessel reported that as he passed + near the place he saw a column of water like a waterspout, sixty feet + high, and 800 yards in circumference, rising from the sea, and soon after + a dense rush of steam in its place, which ascended to the height of 1,800 + feet. The same captain, on his return eighteen days after, found a small + island twelve feet high, with a crater in its centre, throwing forth + volcanic matter and immense columns of vapor, the sea around being covered + with floating cinders and dead fish. The eruption continued with great + violence to the end of the same month. By the end of the month the island + grew to ninety feet in height, and measured three-quarters of a mile + round. By August 4th it became 200 feet high and three miles in + circumference; after which it began to diminish in size by the action of + the waves. Towards the end of October the island was levelled nearly to + the surface of the sea. + </p> + <p> + Naval officers and foreign ministers alike took an absorbing interest in + this new island. The strong national thirst for territory manifested + itself and eager mariners waited only till the new land should be cool + enough to set foot on to strive who should be first to plant there his + country’s flag. Names in abundance were given it by successive observers,—Nerita, + Sciacca, Fernandina, Julia, Hotham, Corrao, and Graham. The last holds + good in English speech, and as Graham’s Island it is known in books + to-day, though the sea took back what it had given, leaving but a shoal of + cinders and sand. + </p> + <p> + The Bay of Santorin, in the island of that name, which lies immediately to + the north of Crete, has long been noted for its submarine volcanoes. + According to one account, indeed, the whole island was at a remote period + raised from the bottom of the sea; but this is questionable. It is, with + more reason, supposed that the bay is the site of an ancient crater, which + was situated on the summit of a volcanic cone that subsequently fell in. + Certain it is that islands have from time to time been thrown up by + volcanic forces from the bottom of the sea within this bay, and that some + of them have remained, while others have sunk again. + </p> + <p> + HOW AN ISLAND GREW + </p> + <p> + Of the existing islands, some were thrown up shortly before the beginning + of the Christian era; in particular, one called the Great Cammeni, which, + however, received a considerable accession to its size by a fresh eruption + in A. D. 726. The islet nearest Santorin was raised in 1573, and was named + the Little Cammeni; and in 1707 there was added, between the other two, a + third, which is now called the Black Island. This made its appearance + above water on the 23rd of May, 1707, and was first mistaken for a wreck; + but some sailors, who landed on it, found it to be a mass of rock; + consisting of a very white soft stone, to which were adhering quantities + of fresh oysters. While they were collecting these, a violent shaking of + the ground scared them away. + </p> + <p> + During several weeks the island gradually increased in volume; but in + July, at a distance of about sixty paces from the new islet, there was + thrown up a chain of black calcined rocks, followed by volumes of thick + black smoke, having a sulphurous smell. A few days thereafter the water + all around the spot became hot, and many dead fishes were thrown up. Then, + with loud subterraneous noises, flames arose, and fresh quantities of + stones and other substances were ejected, until the chain of black rocks + became united to the first islet that had appeared. This eruption + continued for a long time, there being thrown out quantities of ashes and + pumice, which covered the island of Santorin and the surface of the sea—some + being drifted to the coasts of Asia Minor and the Dardanelles. The + activity of this miniature volcano was prolonged, with greater or less + energy, for about ten years. + </p> + <p> + In 1866 similar phenomena took place in the Bay of Santorin, beginning + with underground sounds and slight shocks of earthquake, which were + followed by the appearance of flames on the surface of the sea. Soon after + there arose, out of a dense smoke, a small islet, which gradually + increased until in a week’s time it was 60 feet high, 200 long and 90 + wide. The people of Santorin named it “George,” in honor of the King of + Greece. In another week it joined and became continuous with the Little + Cammeni. The detonations increased in loudness, and large quantities of + incandescent stones were thrown up from the crater. + </p> + <p> + About the same time, at the distance of nearly 150 feet from the coast, to + the westward of a point called Cape Phlego, there rose from the sea + another island, to which was given the name of Aphroessa. It sank and + reappeared several times before it established itself above water. The + detonations and ejection of incandescent lava and stones continued at + intervals during three weeks. From the crater of the islet George, which + attained a height of 150 feet, some stones several cubic yards in bulk + were projected to a great distance. One of them falling on board of a + merchant vessel, killed the captain and set fire to the ship. + </p> + <p> + By the 10th of March the eruptions had partially subsided, but were then + renewed, and a third island, which was named Reka, rose alongside of + Aphroessa. They were at first separated by a channel sixty feet deep; but + in three days this was filled up, and the two islets became united. + </p> + <p> + Reference may properly be made here to Monte Nuovo and Jorullo, not that + they appertain to the present subject, but that they form examples of the + action of similar forces, in the one instance exerted on a lake bottom, in + the other on dry land, each yielding permanent volcanic elevations in + every respect analogous to those which rise as islands from the bottom of + the sea. + </p> + <p> + IN THE ICELANDIC SEAS + </p> + <p> + Off the coast of Iceland islands have appeared during several of the + volcanic eruptions which that remote dependency of Denmark has manifested, + and at various periods in Iceland’s history the sea has been covered with + pumice and other debris, which tell their own tale of what has been going + on, without being in sufficient quantity to reach the surface in the form + of an island mass. The sea off Reykjanes—Smoky Cape, as the name + means—has been a frequent scene of these submarine eruptions. In + 1240, during what the Icelandic historians describe as the eighth + outburst, a number of islets were formed, though most of them subsequently + disappeared, only to have their places occupied by others born at a later + date. In 1422 high rocks of considerable circumference appeared. In 1783, + about a month before the eruption of Skaptar Jokull, a volcanic island + named Nyoe, from which fire and smoke issued, was built up. But in time it + vanished under the waves, all that remains of it to-day being a reef from + five to thirty-five fathoms below the sea-level. In 1830, after several + long-continued eruptions of the usual character, another isle arose; while + at the same time the skerries known as the Geirfuglaska disappeared, and + with them vanished the great auks, or gare-fowls—birds now extinct—which + up to that time had bred on them. At all events, though the auks could not + well have been drowned, no traces of them were seen after the date + mentioned. In July, 1884, an island again appeared about ten miles off + Reykjanes; but it is already beginning to diminish in size, and may soon + disappear. + </p> + <p> + OFF THE COAST OF ALASKA + </p> + <p> + Elsewhere in the region of the northern seas there are other instances of + the influence of the submarine forces in raising up and lowering land. The + coast of Alaska is a region of intense volcanic action. In 1795, during a + period of volcanic activity in the craters of Makushina, on Unalaska, and + in others on Umnak Island, a volume of smoke was seen to rise out of the + sea about 42 miles to the north of Unalaska, and the next year it was + followed by a heap of cindery material, from which arose flame and + volcanic matter, the glow being visible over a radius of ten miles. In + four years the island grew into a large cone, 3000 feet above the + sea-level, and two or three miles in circumference. Two years later it was + still so hot that when some hunters landed on it they found the soil too + warm for walking. It was named Ionna Bogoslova (St. John the Theologian), + by the Russians, Agashagok by the Aleuts, and is now known to the whites + of that region as Bogosloff. Mr. Dall believes that it occupies the site + of some rocks that existed there as long as tradition extends. + </p> + <p> + There were additions to the cone up to the year 1823, when it became so + quiescent as to be the favorite haunt of seals and sea-fowls, and, when + the weather was favorable, was visited by native egg-hunters from + Unalaska. During the summer of 1883 Bogosloff was again seen in eruption, + as it was thought. However, on closely examining the neighborhood, it was + found that the old island was undisturbed, but that there had been a fresh + eruption, which had resulted in the extension of Bogosloff by the + appearance of a cone and crater (Hague Volcano), 357 feet high, connected + with the parent island by a low sand-spit, and situated in a spot where, + the year before, the lead showed 800 fathoms of water. At the same time + Augustin and two other previously quiet islands on the peninsula of Alaska + began simultaneously to emit smoke, dust and ashes, while a reef running + westward and formerly submerged became elevated to the sea surface. Other + islands, of origin exactly similar to Bogosloff and those mentioned, are + to be found in this region, notably Koniugi and Kasatochi, in the western + Aleutians, and Pinnacle Island, near St. Matthew Island. Indeed, the + volcano of Kliutchevsk, which rises to a height of over 15,000 feet, is + really a volcanic island. + </p> + <p> + A permanent addition was made to the Aleutian group of Islands by the + action of a submarine volcano in 1806. This new island has the form of a + volcanic peak, with several subsidiary cones. It is four geographical + miles in circumference. In 1814 another arose out of the sea in the same + archipelago, the cone of which attained a height of 3,000 feet; but at the + end of a year it lost a portion of this elevation. + </p> + <p> + In 1856, in the sea in the same neighborhood, Captain Newell, of the + whaling bark Alice Fraser, witnessed a submarine eruption, which was also + seen by the crews of several other vessels. There was no island formed on + this occasion, but large jets of water were thrown up, and the sea was + greatly agitated all around. Then followed volcanic smoke, and quantities + of stones, ashes, and pumice; the two latter being scattered over the + surface of the sea to a great distance. Loud thundering reports + accompanied this eruption, and all the ships in the neighborhood felt + concussions like those produced by an earthquake. These phenomena seem to + have ended in the formation of some great submarine chasm, into which the + waters rushed with extreme violence and a terrific roar. + </p> + <p> + Occurrences similar to this last have been several times observed in a + tract of open sea in the Atlantic, about half a degree south of the + equator, and between 20 and 22 degrees of west longitude. Although + quantities of volcanic dross have been from time to time thrown up to the + surface in this region, no island has yet made its appearance above water. + </p> + <p> + The events here described repeat on a far smaller scale similar ones which + have occurred in remote ages in many parts of the ocean and left great + island masses as the permanent effects of their work. We may instance the + Hawaiian group, which is wholly of volcanic origin, with the exception of + its minor coral additions, and represents a stupendous activity of + underground agencies beneath the domain of Father Neptune. + </p> + <p> + In part, as we have said elsewhere in this work, all oceanic islands, + remote from those in the shoal bordering waters of the continents, have + been of volcanic or coral formation, or more often a combination of the + two. No sooner does an island mass appear above or near the surface of + tropical waters than the minute coral animals—effective only by + their myriads—begin their labors, building fringes of coral rock + around the cindery heaps lifted from the ocean floor. The atolls of the + Pacific—circular or oval rings of coral with lagunes of sea-water + within—have long been thought to be built on the rims of submarine + volcanoes, rising to within a few hundred feet of the surface, much as + coral reefs around actual islands. If the volcanic mass should + subsequently subside, as it is likely to do, the minute ocean builders + will continue their work—unless the subsidence be too rapid for + their powers of production—and in this way ring-like islands of + coral may in time rise from great depths of sea, their basis being the + volcanic island which has sunk from near the surface far toward old + ocean’s primal floor. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0031" id="link2HCH0031"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXI. + </h2> + <h3> + Mud Volcanoes, Geysers, and Hot Springs. + </h3> + <p> + Our usual impression of a volcano is indicated in the title of “burning + mountain,” so often employed, a great fire-spouting cone of volcanic + debris, from which steam, lava, rock-masses, cinder-like fragments, and + dust, often of extreme fineness, are flung high into the air or flow in + river-like torrents of molten rock. This, no doubt, applies in the + majority of cases, but the volcanic forces do not confine themselves to + these magnificent displays of energy, nor are their products limited to + those above specified. We have seen that mud is a not uncommon product, + due to the mingling of water with volcanic dust, while water alone is + occasionally emitted, of which we have a marked instance in the Volcan de + Agua, of Guatemala, already mentioned. As regards mud flows, we may + specially instance the first outflow from Mont Pelee, that by which the + Guerin sugar works were overwhelmed. + </p> + <p> + The imprisoned forces of the earth have still other modes of + manifestation. A very frequent one of these, and the most destructive to + human life of them all, is the earthquake. + </p> + <p> + Minor manifestations of volcanic action may be seen in the geyser and the + hot spring, the latter the most widely disseminated of all the resultant + effects of the heated condition of the earth’s interior. It is these + displays of subterranean energy, differing from those usually termed + volcanic, yet due to the same general causes, that we have next to + consider. And it may be premised that their manifestations, while, except + in the case of the earthquake, less violent, are no less interesting, + especially as the minor displays are free from that peril to human life + which renders the major ones so terrible. + </p> + <p> + While the largest volcanoes at times pour out rivers of liquid mud, there + are volcanoes from which nothing is ever ejected but mud and water, the + latter being generally salt. From this circumstance they are sometimes + called salses, but they are more generally termed mud-volcanoes. Some + varieties of them throw out little else than gases of different sorts, and + these are called air-volcanoes. + </p> + <p> + THE GREAT MUD VOLCANO OF SICILY + </p> + <p> + One of the best known mud-volcanoes is at Macaluba, near Girgenti, in + Sicily. It consists of several conical mounds, varying from time to time + in their form and height, which ranges from eight to thirty feet. From + orifices on the tops of these mounds there are thrown out sometimes jets + of warmish water and mud mixed with bitumen, sometimes bubbles of gas, + chiefly carbonic acid and carburetted hydrogen, occasionally pure + nitrogen. The mud ejected has often a strong sulphurous smell. The jets in + general ascend only to a moderate height; but occasionally they are thrown + up with great violence, attaining a height of about 200 feet. In 1777 + there was ejected an immense column, consisting of mud strongly + impregnated with sulphur and mixed with naphtha and stones, accompanied + also by quantities of sulphurous vapors. This mud-volcano is known to have + been in action for fifteen centuries. + </p> + <p> + Very recently a small mud-volcano has been formed on the flanks of Mount + Etna. It began with the throwing up of jets of boiling water, mixed with + petroleum and mud, great quantities of gas bubbling up at the same time. + In several of the valleys of Iceland there are similar phenomena, the + boiling water and mud being thrown up in jets to the height of fifteen + feet and upwards, the mud accumulating around the orifices whence the jets + arise. + </p> + <p> + A mud-volcano named Korabetoff, in the Crimea, presents phenomena more + akin to those of the igneous volcanoes of South America. There was an + eruption from this mountain on the 6th of August, 1853. It began by + throwing up from the summit a column of fire and smoke, which ascended to + a great height. This continued for five or six minutes, and was followed + at short intervals by two similar eruptions. There was then ejected with a + hissing noise a quantity of black fetid mud, which was so hot as to scorch + the grass on the edges of the stream. The mud continued to pour out for + three hours, covering a wide space at the mountain’s base. The + mud-volcanoes on the coast of Beloochistan are very numerous, and extend + over an area of nearly a thousand square miles. Their action resembles + that at Macaluba. + </p> + <p> + THE MUD VOLCANO OF JAVA + </p> + <p> + There is a mud volcano in Java which is of interest as somewhat resembling + the geyser in its mode of operation and apparently due to similar + agencies. It is thus described by Dr. Horsfield:— + </p> + <p> + “On approaching it from a distance, it is first discovered by a large + volume of smoke, rising and disappearing at intervals of a few seconds, + resembling the vapors rising from a violent surf. A loud noise is heard, + like that of distant thunder. Having advanced so near that the vision was + no longer impeded by the smoke, a large hemispherical mass was observed, + consisting of black earth mixed with water, about sixteen feet in + diameter, rising to the height of twenty or thirty feet in a perfectly + regular manner, and as if it were pushed up by a force beneath, which + suddenly exploded with a loud noise, and scattered about a volume of black + mud in every direction. After an interval of two or three, or sometimes + four or five seconds, the hemispherical body of mud rose and exploded + again. In the manner stated this volcanic ebullition goes on without + interruption, throwing up a globular body of mud, and dispersing it with + violence through the neighboring plain. The spot where the ebullition + occurs is nearly circular, and perfectly level. It is covered only with + the earthy particles, impregnated with salt water, which are thrown up + from below. The circumference may be estimated at about half an English + mile. In order to conduct the salt water to the circumference, small + passages or gutters are made in the loose muddy earth, which lead to the + borders, where it is collected in holes dug in the ground for the purpose + of evaporation.” + </p> + <p> + The mud has a strong, pungent, sulphurous smell, resembling that of + mineral oil, and is hotter than the surrounding atmosphere. During the + rainy season the explosions increase in violence. + </p> + <p> + There are submarine mud volcanoes as well as those of igneous kind. In + 1814 one of this character broke out in the Sea of Azof, beginning with + flame and black smoke, accompanied by earth and stones, which were flung + to a great height. Ten of these explosions occurred, and, after a period + of rest, others were heard during the night. The next morning there was + visible above the water an island of mud some ten feet high. A very + similar occurrence took place in 1827, near Baku, in the Caspian sea. This + began with a flaming display and the ejection of great fragments of rock. + An eruption of mud succeeded. A set of small volcanoes discovered by + Humboldt in Turbaco, in South America, confined their emissions almost + wholly to gases, chiefly nitrogen. + </p> + <p> + There is a close connection in character between mud volcanoes and those + intermittent boiling springs named geysers. A good many of the mud + volcanoes throw out jets of boiling water along with the mud; but in the + case of the geysers, the boiling water is ejected alone, without any + visible impregnation, though some mineral in solution, as silica, + carbonate of lime, or sulphur, is usually present. + </p> + <p> + THE GEYSER IS A WATER VOLCANO + </p> + <p> + The phenomenon of the geyser serves in a measure to support the theory + that steam is an important agent in volcanic action. A geyser, in fact, + may be designated as a water volcano, since it throws up water only. It + comprises a cone or mound, usually only a few feet high. In the middle of + this is a crater-like opening with a passage leading down into the earth. + As in the case of the volcano, the geyser cone is built up by its own + action. In the boiling water which is ejected there is dissolved a certain + amount of silica. As the water falls and cools this mineral is deposited, + gradually building up a cup-like elevation. The basin of the geyser is + generally full of clear water, with a little steam rising from its + surface; but at intervals an eruption takes place, sometimes at regular + periods, but more often at irregular intervals. + </p> + <p> + Among the largest and best known geysers in the world are those of + Iceland, chief among them being the Great Geyser. Silica is the mineral + with which the waters of this fountain are impregnated, and the substance + which they deposit, as they slowly evaporate, is named siliceous sinter. + Of this material is composed the mound, six or seven feet high, on which + the spring is situated. On the top of the mound is a large oval basin, + about three feet in depth, measuring in its larger diameter about + fifty-six, and in its shorter about forty-six feet. The centre of this + basin is occupied by a circular well about ten feet in diameter, and + between seventy and eighty feet deep. + </p> + <p> + Out of the central well springs a jet of boiling water, at intervals of + six or seven hours. When the fountain is at rest, both the basin and the + well appear quite empty, and no steam is seen. But on the approach of the + moment for action, the water rises in the well, till it flows over into + the basin. Then loud subterranean explosions are heard, and the ground all + round is violently shaken. + </p> + <p> + Instantly, and with immense force, a steaming jet of boiling water, of the + full width of the well, springs up and ascends to a great height in the + air. The top of this large column of water is enveloped in vast clouds of + steam, which diffuse themselves through the air, rendering it misty. These + jets succeed each other with great rapidity to the number of sixteen or + eighteen, the period of action of the fountain being about five minutes. + The last of the jets generally ascends to the greatest height, usually to + about 100, but sometimes to 150 feet; on one occasion it rose to the great + height of 212 feet. Having ejected this great column of water, the action + ceases, and the water that had filled the basin sinks down into the well. + There it remains till the time for the next eruption, when the same + phenomena are repeated. It has been found that, by throwing large stones + into the well, the period of the eruption may be hastened, while the + loudness of the explosions and the violence of the fountain effect are + increased, the stones being at the same time ejected with great force. + </p> + <p> + ERUPTION CAN BE INDUCED BY ARTIFICIAL MEANS + </p> + <p> + Geysers are found all over the island, presenting various peculiarities. + In the case of one of the smaller ones, which is called Strokr, or the + Churn, an eruption can be induced by artificial means. A barrow-load of + sods is thrown into the crater of the geyser, with the effect of causing + an eruption. The sensitiveness of Strokr is due to its peculiar form. An + observer states that, “The bore is eight feet in diameter at the top, and + forty-four feet deep. Below twenty-seven feet it contracts to nineteen + inches, so that the turf thrown in completely chokes it. Steam collects + below; a foaming scum covers the surface of the water, and in a quarter of + an hour it surges up the pipe. The fountain then begins playing, sending + its bundles of jets rather higher than those of the Great Geyser, flinging + up the clods of turf which have been its obstruction like a number of + rockets. This magnificent display continues for a quarter of an hour or + twenty minutes. The erupted water flows back into the pipe from the curved + sides of the bowl. This occasions a succession of bursts, the last + expiring effort, very generally, being the most magnificent. Strokr gives + no warning thumps, like the Great Geyser, and there is not the same + roaring of steam accompanying the outbreak of the water.” + </p> + <p> + The same author thus describes an eruption of the Great Geyser, which + occurred about two o’clock in the morning: “A violent concussion of the + ground brought me and my companions to our feet. We rushed out of the tent + in every condition of dishabille and were in time to see Geyser put forth + his full strength. Five strokes underground were the signal, then an + overflow, wetting every side of the mound. Presently a dome of water rose + in the centre of the basin and fell again, immediately to be followed by a + fresh bell, which sprang into the air fully forty feet high, accompanied + by a roaring burst of steam. Instantly the fountain began to play with the + utmost violence, a column rushing up to the height of ninety or one + hundred feet against the gray night sky, with mighty volumes of white + steam cloud rolling after it and swept off by the breeze to fall in + torrents of hot rain. Jets and lines of water tore their way through the + clouds, or leaped high above its domed mass. The earth trembled and + throbbed during the explosion, then the column sank, started up again, + dropped once more, and seemed to be sucked back into the earth. We ran to + the basin, which was left dry, and looked down the bore at the water, + which was bubbling at the depth of six feet.” + </p> + <p> + In the case of Strokr, the cause of this eruption is not difficult to + understand. The narrow part of the channel is choked up by the turf and + the steam, and prevented from escaping. Finally it gains such force as to + drive out the obstacle with a violent explosion, just as a bottle of + fermenting liquor may blow out the cork and discharge some of its + contents. + </p> + <p> + Geysers are somewhat abundant phenomena, existing in many parts of the + earth, while striking examples of them are found in the widely separated + regions of Iceland, New Zealand, Japan and the western United States. In + the volcanic region of New Zealand geysers and their associated hot + springs are abundant. It was to their action that we owed the famous white + and pink terraces and the warm lake of Rotomahana which were ruined by the + destructive eruption of Mount Tarawera, already described. + </p> + <p> + GEYSERS OF THE UNITED STATES + </p> + <p> + The United States is abundantly supplied with hot springs, but geysers, + outside of the Yellowstone region, are found only in California and + Nevada. Those of California exist chiefly in Napa Valley, north of San + Francisco, in a canon or defile. Their waters are impregnated not with + silica, but with sulphur, and they thus approach more nearly in their + character to mud-volcanoes, whose ejections are, in like manner, much + impregnated with that substance. They are also, like them, collected in + groups, there being no less than one hundred openings within a space of + flat ground a mile square. Owing to their number and proximity, their + individual energy is nothing like so violent as that of the geysers of + Iceland. Their jets seldom rise higher than 20 or 30 feet; but so great a + number playing within so confined a space produces an imposing effect. The + jets of boiling water issue with a loud noise from little conical mounds, + around which the ground is merely a crust of sulphur. When this crust is + penetrated, the boiling water may be seen underneath. The rocks in the + neighborhood of these fountains are all corroded by the action of the + sulphurous vapors. Nevertheless, within a distance of not more than 50 + feet from them, trees grow without injury to their health. + </p> + <p> + Few of these fountains, however, are regular geysers, most of them + discharging only steam. From the Steamboat Geyser this ascends to a height + of from 50 to 100 feet, with a roar like that of the escape from a + steamboat boiler. Associated with the geysers are numerous hot springs, + some clear, some turbid, and variously impregnated with iron, sulphur or + alum. In Nevada the Steamboat Springs, as they are designated, exist in + Washoe Valley, east of the Virginian range. They come nearer in character + to the Yellowstone geysers, their waters depositing true geyserite, or + silicious concretions. The Volcano Springs, in Lauder County, are also + true geysers, though of small importance. The ground here is so thickly + perforated by holes from which steam escapes that it looks like a + cullender. + </p> + <p> + THE YELLOWSTONE GEYSERS + </p> + <p> + The most remarkable geyser country in the world, alike for the size and + the number of its spouting fountains, is the Yellowstone region in the + northwest part of the Territory of Wyoming, in the United States, which, + by a special act of Congress, has been reserved as the Yellowstone + National Park, exempt from settlement, purchase or preemption. Here nearly + every form of geyser and unintermittent hot spring occurs, with deposits + of various kinds, silicious, calcareous, etc. Of the hot springs, Dr. + Peale enumerates 2,195, and considers that within the limits of the park—which + is about 54 miles by 62 miles, and includes 3,312 square miles—as + many as 3,000 actually exist. The same geologist notes the existence of 71 + geysers in the area mentioned, though some of the number are only inferred + to be spouting springs from the form of their basins and the character of + the surrounding deposits. Of this vast collection of still and eruptive + springs, between which there seems every gradation, those which do not + send water into the air are, owing to the magnificent cascades which they + form, often quite as remarkable as those which take the shape of geysers. + The more striking of the latter may, however, be briefly mentioned. + </p> + <p> + In the Gibbon Basin is a geyser of late origin. In 1878 this consisted of + two steam holes, roaring on the side of a hill, that looked as if they had + recently burst through the surface; and the gully leading towards the + ravine was at that date filled with sand, which appeared to have been + poured out during an eruption. Dead trees stood on the line of this sand + floor, and others, with their bark still remaining, and even with their + foliage not lost, were uprooted hard by, everything indicating that the + “steamboat vent,” as it was called, was of recent formation. In 1875 it + had no existence, but in 1879 the spouting spring—which first + opened, it is believed, on the 11th of August in the preceding year—had + “settled down to business as a very powerful flowing geyser,” with a + double period; one eruption occurring every half hour, and projecting + water to the height of 30 feet; the main eruption occurring every six or + seven days, with long continued action, and a column of nearly 100 feet. + </p> + <p> + The New Geyser in the same basin is also of quite recent origin. It + consists of two fissures in the rock, in which the water boils vigorously. + But there is no mound, and the rocks of the fissure are just beginning to + get a coating of the silicious geyserite deposited from the water, so that + it cannot long have been spouting. Again, in the Grotto Geyser—in + the Upper Geyser Basin of Fire Hole River—the main or larger crater + is hollowed into fantastic arches, beneath which are the grotto-like + cavities from which it is named, which act as lateral orifices for the + escape of water during an eruption. It plays several times in the course + of the twenty-four hours, and sends a column of water sixty feet high, the + eruption lasting an hour. As yet, however, the force of the water has not + been sufficient, or of sufficiently long duration, to break through the + arches covering the basin or crater. The Excelsior—claimed to be the + largest of its order, which sent water nearly 300 feet into the air at + intervals of about five hours, and of such volume as to wash away bridges + over small streams below—was not, until comparatively recent years, + known as a specially powerful geyser. But if it had for a time waned in + importance, its immense crater, 330 feet in length and 200 feet at the + widest part, shows that at a still earlier date it was a gigantic + fountain. In this deep pit, when the breeze wafted aside the clouds of + steam constantly arising from its surface, the water could be seen + seething 15 or 20 feet below the surrounding level. Yet into the cauldron + of boiling water a little stream of cold water, from the melting snow of + the uplands, ran unceasingly. Since 1888 this great geyser has been + inactive. + </p> + <p> + The Castle Geyser is so named on account of the fancied resemblance which + its mound of white and grey deposit presents to the ruins of a feudal + keep, the crater itself being placed on a cone or turret, which has a + somewhat imposing appearance compared with the other geysers in the + neighborhood. It throws a column usually about fifty or sixty feet high, + at intervals of two or three hours, but sometimes the discharge shoots up + much higher. + </p> + <p> + The Giant, in the Upper Geyser Basin, has a peculiar crater, which has + been likened to the stump of a hollow sycamore tree of gigantic + proportions, whose top has been wrenched off by a storm. This curious cup + is broken down at one side, as though it had been torn away during an + eruption of more than ordinary violence, and on this side the visitor is + able to look into the crater, if he can contrive to avoid the jets which + are constantly spouted from it. The periods of rest which it takes are + varied, an eruption often not occurring for several days at a time; yet + when it breaks out it continues playing for more than three hours, with a + volume of water reaching a height of from 130 to 140 feet. In the interval + little spouts are constantly in progress. Mr. Stanley saw one eruption + which he calculated to have shot a column of water to the height of more + than 200 feet. At first it seemed as though the geyser was only making a + feint, the discharge which preceded the great one being merely repeated + several times, followed by a cessation both of the rumbling noises and of + the ejection of water. But soon, after a premonitory cloud of steam, the + geyser began to work in earnest, the column discharged rising higher and + higher, until it reached the altitude mentioned. + </p> + <p> + “At first it appeared to labor in raising the immense volume, which seemed + loath to start on its heavenward tour; but it was with perfect ease that + the stupendous column was held to its place, the water breaking into jets + and returning in glittering showers to the basin. The steam ascended in + dense volumes for thousands of feet, when it was freighted on the wings of + the winds and borne away in clouds. The fearful rumble and confusion + attending it were as the sound of distant artillery, the rushing of many + horses to battle, or the roar of a fearful tornado. It commenced to act at + 2 P. M., and continued for an hour and a half, the latter part of which it + emitted little else than steam, rushing upward from its chambers below, of + which, if controlled, there was enough to run an engine of wonderful + power. The waving to and fro of such a gigantic fountain, when the column + is at its height, + </p> + <p> + ‘Tinselled o’er in robes of varying hues,’ + </p> + <p> + and glistening in the bright sunlight, which adorns it with the glowing + colors of many a gorgeous rainbow, affords a spectacle so wonderful and + grandly magnificent, so overwhelming to the mind, that the ablest attempt + at description gives the reader who has never witnessed such a display but + a feeble idea of its glory.” + </p> + <p> + A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEYSER AT WORK + </p> + <p> + The only other geysers in this remarkable geyserland which we can spare + room to notice are those known as the Giantess, the Beehive, and the + Grand. The Giantess sends a column of water to the height of 250 feet. An + eruption is usually divided into three periods—two preliminary + efforts and a final one, divided from each other by intervals of between + one and two hours, while the intervals of discharge are very long. + Sometimes it does not play for several weeks. The Beehive, which is 400 + feet from the Giantess, gets its name from the peculiar beehive-like cone + which it has formed. The eruption is also almost unique. It is heralded by + a slight escape of steam, which is followed by a column of steam and + water, shooting to the height of over 200 feet. The column is somewhat + fan-shaped, but it does not fall in rain, the spray being evaporated and + carried off as steam—if, indeed, there is not more steam than water + in the column. The duration of the discharge is between four and five + minutes, and the interval between two eruptions from twenty-one to + twenty-five hours. + </p> + <p> + The Grand is one of the most important in the Upper Geyser basin. Yet, + unlike the Grotto, the Giant, or the Old Faithful,—so called from + its frequent and regular eruptions—it has no raised cone or crater, + and a much less cavernous bowl than the Giantess and other geysers. The + column discharged ascends to the height of from eighty to two hundred + feet, and the eruptions last from fifteen minutes to three-quarters of an + hour, with intervals on an average of from seven to twenty hours. This + fountain is apparently very irregular in its action, though it is just + possible that when the Yellowstone geysers have been more consecutively + studied, it will be found that these seeming irregularities depend on the + varying supplies of water at different times of the year. + </p> + <p> + THE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS + </p> + <p> + The marvellous phenomena of the Yellowstone region are not confined to + geyser action, hot springs of steady flow being, as above stated, + exceedingly numerous. Of these the most striking are those known as the + Mammoth Hot Springs, whose waters find their way through underground + passages, finally flowing from an opening as the “Boiling River,” which + empties into the Gardiner River. + </p> + <p> + These springs are marvels of beauty. Their terraced bowls, adorned with + delicate fret-work, are among the finest specimens of Nature’s handiwork + in the world, and the colored waters themselves are startling in their + brilliancy. Red, pink, black, canary, green, saffron, blue, chocolate, and + all their intermediate gradations are found here in exquisite harmony. The + springs rise in terraces of various heights and widths, having + intermingled with their delicate shades chalk-like cliffs, soft and + crumbly, these latter being the remains of springs from which the life and + beauty have departed. The great spring is the largest in the country, the + water flowing through three openings into a basin forty feet long by + twenty-five feet wide. From this the hot mineral waters drip over into + lower basins, of gracefully curved and scalloped outline, the minerals + deposited on the lips of the basin forming stalagmites of variegated hue, + yielding a brilliant and beautiful effect. The terraced basins bear a + close resemblance to the former New Zealand pink and white terraces, and + since the annihilation of the latter are the most charming examples in + existence of this rare form of Nature’s artistic handiwork. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The San Francisco Calamity, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY *** + +***** This file should be named 1560-h.htm or 1560-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/6/1560/ + +Produced by Donald Lainson; David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The San Francisco Calamity + +Author: Various + +Editor: Charles Morris + +Release Date: May 3, 2006 [EBook #1560] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY *** + + + + +Produced by Donald Lainson + + + + + +THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + + +A Complete and Accurate Account of the Fearful Disaster which +Visited the Great City and the Pacific Coast, the Reign of Panic and +Lawlessness, the Plight of 300,000 Homeless People and the World-wide +Rush to the Rescue. + +TOLD BY EYE WITNESSES + +INCLUDING GRAPHIC AND RELIABLE ACCOUNTS OF ALL GREAT EARTHQUAKES AND +VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS IN THE WORLD'S HISTORY, AND SCIENTIFIC EXPLANATIONS +OF THEIR CAUSES. + + + +EDITED BY CHARLES MORRIS, LL. D. + + + + +PREFACE + + +Earthquake and famine, fire and sudden death--these are the destroyers +that men fear when they come singly; but upon the unhappy people of +California they came together, a hideous quartette, to slay human +beings, to blot from existence the wealth that represented prolonged and +strenuous effort, to bring hunger and speechless misery to three hundred +thousand homeless and terror-stricken people. + +The full measure of the catastrophe can probably never be taken. The +summary cannot be made amid the panic, the confusion, the removal of +ancient landmarks, the complete subversion of the ordinary machinery +of society. When chaos comes, as it did in San Francisco, and all the +channels of familiar life are closed, and human anguish grows to be +intolerable, compilation of statistics is impossible, even if it were +not repugnant to the feelings. And when order is once more restored, +after the lapse of many weeks, months and perhaps years, the details of +the calamity have merged into one undecipherable mass of misery which +defies the analyst and the historian. It is the purpose of this book +faithfully to record the story of these awful days when years were lived +in a moment and to preserve an accurate chronicle of them, not only +for the people whose hearts yearn in sympathy to-day, but for their +posterity. + +Other frightful catastrophes the world has known. The earthquake which +dropped Lisbon into the sea in 1755, and in a moment swallowed up +twenty-five thousand people, was perhaps more awful than the convulsion +which has brought woe to San Francisco. When Krakatoa Mountain, in the +Straits of Sunda, in 1883, split asunder and poured across the land a +mighty wave, in which thirty-six thousand human beings perished, the +results also were more terrible. + +The whirlwind of fire which consumed St. Pierre, in the Island of +Martinique, and the devastation wrought by Vesuvius a few days previous +to that at San Francisco, need not be used for comparison with the +latter tragedy, but they may be referred to, that we may recall the fact +that this land of ours is not the only one which has suffered. + +But since the western hemisphere was discovered there has been in this +quarter of the globe no violence of natural forces at all comparable in +destructive fury with that which was manifested upon the Pacific coast. +The only other calamity at all equalling it, or surpassing it, was the +Civil War, and that was the work of the evil passions of man inciting +him to slay his brother, while Nature would have had him live in peace. + +The earthquake in San Francisco, which crumbled strong buildings as if +they were made of paper, would have been terrible enough; but afterward +came the horror of fire and of imprisoned men and women burned alive, +and now to it was added the suffering of multitudes from hunger and +exposure. + +Public attention is fixed on the great city; but smaller cities had +their days and nights of destruction, horror and misery. Some were +almost destroyed. Others were partly ruined, and beyond their borders, +over a wide area, the trembling of the earth toppled houses, annihilated +property and transformed riches into poverty. The cost in life can be +reckoned. The money loss will never be computed, for the appraised value +of the wrecked property conveys no notion of the consequences of the +almost complete paralysis, for a time, of the commercial operations by +means of which men and women earn their bread. + +When the weakness and the folly and the sin of men bring woe upon other +men, there are plenty of texts for the preacher and no scarcity of +earnest preachers. But here is a vast and awful catastrophe that +befell from an act of Nature apparently no more extraordinary than the +shrinkage of hot metal in the process of cooling. The consequences are +terrifying in this case because they involve the habitations of half a +million people; but, no doubt, the process goes on somewhere within +the earth almost continuously, and it no more involves the theory of +malignant Nature than that of an angry God. + +If we contemplate it, possibly we may be helped to a profitable estimate +of our own relative insignificance. We think, with some notion of our +importance, of the thousand million men who live upon the earth; but +they are a mere handful of animate atoms in comparison with the surface, +to say nothing of the solid contents, of the globe itself. + +We are fond of boasting in this latter day of man's marvelous success +in subduing the forces of Nature; and, while we are in the midst of +exultation over our victories, Nature tumbles the rocks about somewhere +within the bowels of the earth, and we have to learn the old lesson that +our triumphs have not penetrated farther than to the very outermost rim +of the realms of Nature. + +A few weak, almost helpless, creatures, we millions of men stand upon +the deck of a great ship, which goes rolling through space that is +itself incomprehensible, and usually we are so busy with our paltry +ambitions, our transgressions, our righteous labors, our prides and +hopes and entanglements that we forget where we are and what is our +destiny. A direct interposition from a Superior Power, even if it +be hurtful to the body, might be required to persuade us to stop and +consider and take anew our bearings, so that we may comprehend in some +larger degree our precise relations to things. The wisest men have +been the most ready to recognize the beneficence of the discipline of +affliction. If there were no sorrow, we should be likely to find the +school of life unprofitable. + +For one thing, the school wherein sorrow is a part of the discipline is +that in which is developed human sympathy, one of the finest and most +ennobling manifestations of the Love which is, in its essence, divine. +In human life there is much that is ignoble, and the race has almost +contemptible weakness and insignificance in comparison with the physical +forces of the universe. + +But man is superior to all these forces in his possession of the power +of affection; and in almost the lowest and basest of the race this +power, if latent and half lost, may be found and evoked by the spectacle +of the suffering of a fellow-creature. + +The human family looks on with pity while the homeless and hungry and +impoverished Californians endure pangs. Wherever the news went, by +the swift processes of electricity, there men and women, some of them, +perhaps, hardly knowing where California is, were sorry and willing +and eager to help. There are quarrels within the family sometimes, when +nation wars with nation, and all love seems to have vanished; but the +world is, in truth, akin. "God hath made of one blood all the nations of +the earth," and the blood "tells" when suffering comes. + +THE PUBLISHERS. + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I. + +SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS TERRIFIC EARTHQUAKE + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE DEMON OF FIRE INVADES THE STRICKEN CITY + + +CHAPTER III. + +FIGHTING FLAMES WITH DYNAMITE + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE REIGN OF DESTRUCTION AND DEVASTATION + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE PANIC FLIGHT OF A HOMELESS HOST + + +CHAPTER VI. + +FACING FAMINE AND PRAYING FOR RELIEF + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FRIGHTFUL LOSS OF LIFE AND WEALTH + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +WONDERFUL RECORD OF THRILLING ESCAPES + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DISASTER SPREADS OVER THE GOLDEN STATE + + +CHAPTER X. + +ALL AMERICA AND CANADA TO THE RESCUE + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE SAN FRANCISCO OF THE PAST + + +CHAPTER XII. + +LIFE IN THE METROPOLIS OF THE PACIFIC + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +PLANS TO REBUILD SAN FRANCISCO + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +THE EARTHQUAKE WAVE FELT AROUND THE WORLD + + +CHAPTER XV. + +VESUVIUS DEVASTATES THE REGION OF NAPLES + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +THE GREAT LISBON AND CALABRIAN EARTHQUAKES + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE CHARLESTON AND OTHER EARTHQUAKES OF THE UNITED STATES + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE VOLCANO AND THE EARTHQUAKE, EARTH'S DEMONS OF DESTRUCTION + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE THEORIES OF VOLCANIC AND EARTHQUAKE ACTION + + +CHAPTER XX. + +THE ACTIVE VOLCANOES OF THE EARTH + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +THE FAMOUS VESUVIUS AND THE DESTRUCTION OF POMPEII + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +ERUPTIONS OF VESUVIUS, ETNA AND STROMBOLI + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +SKAPTER JOKULL AND HECLA, THE GREAT ICELANDIC VOLCANOES + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +VOLCANOES OF THE PHILIPPINES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +THE WONDERFUL HAWAIIAN CRATERS AND KILAUEA'S LAKE OF FIRE + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +POPOCATEPETL AND OTHER VOLCANOES OF MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +THE TERRIBLE ERUPTION OF KRAKATOA + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +MONT PELEE AND ITS HARVEST OF DEATH IN 1902 + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +ST. VINCENT ISLAND AND MONT SOUFRIERE IN 1812 + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +SUBMARINE VOLCANOES AND THEIR WORK OF ISLAND-BUILDING + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +MUD VOLCANOES, GEYSERS AND HOT SPRINGS + + + + + +THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + + + +CHAPTER I. + +San Francisco and Its Terrific Earthquake. + + +On the splendid Bay of San Francisco, one of the noblest harbors on the +whole vast range of the Pacific Ocean, long has stood, like a Queen of +the West on its seven hills, the beautiful city of San Francisco, the +youngest and in its own way one of the most beautiful and attractive of +the large cities of the United States. Born less than sixty years ago, +it has grown with the healthy rapidity of a young giant, outvieing many +cities of much earlier origin, until it has won rank as the eighth city +of the United States, and as the unquestioned metropolis of our far +Western States. + +It is on this great and rich city that the dark demon of destruction has +now descended, as it fell on the next younger of our cities, Chicago, in +1872. It was the rage of the fire-fiend that desolated the metropolis +of the lakes. Upon the Queen City of the West the twin terrors of +earthquake and conflagration have descended at once, careening through +its thronged streets, its marts of trade, and its abodes alike of +poverty and wealth, and with the red hand of devastation sweeping one +of the noblest centres of human industry and enterprise from the face of +the earth. It is this story of almost irremediable ruin which it is our +unwelcome duty to chronicle. But before entering upon this sorrowful +task some description of the city that has fallen a prey to two of the +earth's chief agents of destruction must be given. + +San Francisco is built on the end of a peninsula or tongue of land lying +between the Pacific Ocean and the broad San Francisco Bay, a noble body +of inland water extending southward for about forty miles and with a +width varying from six to twelve miles. Northward this splendid body of +water is connected with San Pablo Bay, ten miles long, and the latter +with Suisun Bay, eight miles long, the whole forming a grand range of +navigable waters only surpassed by the great northern inlet of Puget +Sound. The Golden Gate, a channel five miles long, connects this +great harbor with the sea, the whole giving San Francisco the greatest +commercial advantages to be found on the Pacific coast. + + +THE EARLY DAYS OF SAN FRANCISCO. + + +The original site of the city was a grant made by the King of Spain of +four square leagues of land. Congress afterwards confirmed this grant. +It was an uninviting region, with its two lofty hills and its various +lower ones, a barren expanse of shifting sand dunes extending from their +feet. The population in 1830 was about 200 souls, about equal to that +of Chicago at the same date. It was not much larger in 1848, when +California fell into American hands and the discovery of gold set in +train the famous rush of treasure seekers to that far land. When 1849 +dawned the town contained about 2,000 people. They had increased to +20,000 before the year ended. The place, with its steep and barren hills +and its sandy stretches, was not inviting, but its ease of access to the +sea and its sheltered harbor were important features, and people settled +there, making it a depot of mining supplies and a point of departure for +the mines. + +The place grew rapidly and has continued to grow. At first a city of +flimsy frame buildings, it became early a prey to the flames, fire +sweeping through it three times in 1850 and taking toll of the young +city to the value of $7,500,000. These conflagrations swept away most of +the wooden houses, and business men began to build more substantially +of brick, stone and iron. Yet to-day, for climatic reasons, most of the +residences continue to be built of wood. But the slow-burning redwood +of the California hillsides is used instead of the inflammable pine, the +result being that since 1850 the loss by fire in the residence section +of the city has been remarkably small. In 1900 the city contained 50,494 +frame and only 3,881 stone and brick buildings, though the tendency to +use more durable materials was then growing rapidly. + +Before describing the terrible calamity which fell upon this beautiful +city on that dread morning of April 18, 1906, some account of the +character of the place is very desirable, that readers may know what San +Francisco was before the rage of earthquake and fire reduced it to what +it is to-day. + + +THE CHARACTER OF THE CITY. + + +The site of the city of San Francisco is very uneven, embracing a series +of hills, of which the highest ones, known as the Twin Peaks, reach to +an elevation of 925 feet, and form the crown of an amphitheatre of lower +altitudes. Several of the latter are covered with handsome residences, +and afford a magnificent view of the surrounding country, with its +bordering bay and ocean, and the noble Golden Gate channel, a river-like +passage from ocean to bay of five miles in length and one in width. This +waterway is very deep except on the bar at its mouth, where the depth of +water is thirty feet. + +Since its early days the growth of the city has been very rapid. In 1900 +it held 342,782 people, and the census estimate made from figures of the +city directory in 1904 gave it then a population of 485,000, probably +a considerable exaggeration. In it are mingled inhabitants from most +of the nations of the earth, and it may claim the unenviable honor of +possessing the largest population of Chinese outside of China itself, +the colony numbering over 20,000. + +Of the pioneer San Francisco few traces remain, the old buildings having +nearly all disappeared. Large and costly business houses and splendid +residences have taken their place in the central portion of the city, +marble, granite, terra-cotta, iron and steel being largely used as +building material. The great prevalence of frame buildings in the +residence sections is largely due to the popular belief that they +are safer in a locality subject to earthquakes, while the frequent +occurrence of earth tremors long restrained the inclination to erect +lofty buildings. Not until 1890 was a high structure built, and few +skyscrapers had invaded the city up to its day of ruin. They will +probably be introduced more frequently in the future, recent experience +having demonstrated that they are in considerable measure earthquake +proof. + +The city before the fire contained numerous handsome structures, +including the famous old Palace Hotel, built at a cost of $3,000,000 and +with accommodations for 1,200 guests; the nearly finished and splendid +Fairmount Hotel; the City Hall, with its lofty dome, on which $7,000,000 +is said to have been spent, much of it, doubtless, political plunder; +a costly United States Mint and Post Office, an Academy of Science, and +many churches, colleges, libraries and other public edifices. The city +had 220 miles of paved streets, 180 miles of electric and 77 of cable +railway, 62 hotels, 16 theatres, 4 large libraries, 5 daily newspapers, +etc., together with 28 public parks. + +Sitting, like Rome of old, on its seven hills, San Francisco has long +been noted for its beautiful site, clasped in, as it is, between the +Pacific Ocean and its own splendid bay, on a peninsula of some five +miles in width. Where this juts into the bay at its northernmost point +rises a great promontory known as Telegraph Hill, from whose height +homeless thousands have recently gazed on the smoke rising from their +ruined homes. In the early days of golden promise a watchman was +stationed on this hill to look out for coming ships entering the Golden +Gate from their long voyage around the Horn and signal the welcome news +to the town below. From this came its name. + +Cliffs rise on either side of the Golden Gate, and on one is perched the +Cliff House, long a famous hostelry. This stands so low that in storms +the surf is flung over its lower porticos, though its force is broken +by the Seal Rocks. A chief attraction to this house was to see the seals +play on these rocks, their favorite place of resort. The Cliff House was +at first said to have been swept bodily by the earthquake into the sea, +but it proved to be very little injured, and stands erect in its old +picturesque location. + +In the vicinity of Telegraph Hill are Russian and Nob Hills, the latter +getting its peculiar title from the fact that the wealthy "nobs," or +mining magnates, of bonanza days built their homes on its summit level. +Farther to the east are Mount Olympus and Strawberry Hill, and beyond +these the Twin Peaks, which really embrace three hills, the third being +named Bernal Heights. Farther to the south and east is Rincan Hill, the +last in the half moon crescent of hills, within which is a spread of +flat ground extending to the bay. Behind the hills on the Pacific side +stretches a vast sweep of sand, at some places level, but often gathered +into great round dunes. Part of this has been transformed into the +beautiful Golden Gate Park, a splendid expanse of green verdure which +has long been one of San Francisco's chief attractions. + +Beneath the whole of San Francisco is a rock formation, but everywhere +on top of this extends the sand, the gift of the winds. This is of such +a character that a hole dug in the street anywhere, even if only to the +depth of a few feet, must be shored up with planking or it will fill as +fast as it is excavated, the sand running as dry as the contents of +an hour glass. When there is an earthquake--or a "temblor," to use the +Spanish name--it is the rock foundation that is disturbed, not the sand, +which, indeed, serves to lessen the effect of the earth tremor. + + +THE FOUNDATIONS OF THE CITY. + + +Leaving the region of the hills and descending from their +crescent-shaped expanse, we find a broad extent of low ground, sloping +gently toward the bay. On this low-lying flat was built all of San +Francisco's business houses, all its principal hotels and a large part +of its tenements and poorer dwellings. It was here that the earthquake +was felt most severely and that the fire started which laid waste the +city. + +Rarely has a city been built on such doubtful foundations. The greater +part of the low ground was a bay in 1849, but it has since been filled +in by the drifting sands blown from the ocean side by the prevailing +west winds and by earth dumped into it. Much of this land was "made +ground." Forty-niners still alive say that when they first saw San +Francisco the waters of the bay came up to Montgomery Street. The Palace +Hotel was in Montgomery Street, and from there to the ferry docks--a +long walk for any man--the water had been driven back by a "filling-in" +process. + +This is the district that especially suffered, that south of Market +and east of Montgomery Streets. Nearly all the large buildings in this +section are either built on piles driven into the sand and mud or were +raised upon wooden foundations. It is on such ground as this that the +costly Post Office building was erected, despite the protests of nearly +the entire community, who asserted that the ground was nothing but a +filled-in bog. + +In none of the earthquakes that San Francisco has had was any serious +damage except to houses in this filled-in territory, and to houses built +along the line of some of the many streams which ran from the hills down +to the bay, and which were filled in as the town grew--for instance, +the Grand Opera House was built over the bed of St. Anne's Creek. A bog, +slough and marsh, known as the Pipeville Slough, was the ground on which +the City Hall was built, and which was originally a burying ground. Sand +from the western shore had blown over and drifted into the marsh and +hardened its surface. + +When the final grading scheme of the city was adopted in 1853, and +work went on, the water front of the city was where Clay Street now is, +between Montgomery and Sansome Streets. The present level area of San +Francisco of about three thousand acres is an average of nine feet +above or below the natural surface of the ground and the changes made +necessitated the transfer of 21,000,000 cubic yards from hills to +hollows. Houses to the number of thousands were raised or lowered, +street floors became subcellars or third stories and the whole natural +face of the ground was altered. + +Through this infirm material all the pipes of the water and sewer system +of San Francisco in its business districts and in most of the region +south of Market street were laid. When the earthquake came, the +filled-in ground shook like the jelly it is. The only firm and rigid +material in its millions of cubic yards of surface area and depth were +the iron pipes. Naturally they broke, as they would not bend, and San +Francisco's water system was therefore instantly disabled, with the +result that the fire became complete master of the situation and raged +uncontrolled for three days and nights. + +Although the earthquake wrecked the business and residential portions +of the city alike, on the hills the land did not sink. All "made ground" +sank in consequence of the quaking, but on the high ground the upper +parts of the buildings were about the only portions of the structures +wrecked. Most of the damage on the hills was done by falling chimneys. +On Montgomery Street, half a block from the main office of the Western +Union Company, the middle of the street was cracked and blown up, but +during the shocks which struck the Western Union building only the +top stories were cracked. Similar phenomena were experienced in other +localities, and the bulk of the disaster, so far as the earthquake was +concerned, was confined to the low-lying region above described. + + +THE BANE OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +From the origin of San Francisco the earthquake has been its bane. +During the past fifty years fully 250 shocks have been recorded, while +all California has been subject to them. But frequency rather than +violence of shocks has been the characteristic of the seismic history of +the State, there having been few shocks that caused serious damage, and +none since 1872 that led to loss of life. + +There was a violent shock in 1856, when the city was only a mining town +of small frame buildings. Several shanties were overthrown and a few +persons killed by falling walls and chimneys. There was a severe shock +also in 1865, in which many buildings were shattered. Next in violence +was the shock of 1872, which cracked the walls of some of the public +buildings and caused a panic. There was no great loss of life. In April, +1898, just before midnight, there was a lively shakeup which caused +the tall buildings to shake like the snapping of a whip and drove the +tourists out of the hotels into the streets in their nightclothes. Three +or four old houses fell, and the Benicia Navy Yard, which is on made +ground across the bay, was damaged to the extent of about $100,000. The +last severe shock was in January, 1900, when the St. Nicholas Hotel was +badly damaged. + +These were the heaviest shocks. On the other hand, light shocks, as +above said, have been frequent. Probably the sensible quakes have +averaged three or four a year. These are usually tremblings lasting from +ten seconds to a minute and just heavy enough to wake light sleepers +or to shake dishes about on the shelves. Tourists and newcomers are +generally alarmed by these phenomena, but old Californians have +learned to take them philosophically. To one who is not afraid of them, +the sensation of one of these little tremblers is rather pleasant than +otherwise, and the inhabitants grew so accustomed to them as rarely to +let them disturb their equanimity. + +After 1900 the forces beneath the earth seemed to fall asleep. As it +proved, they were only biding their time. The era was at hand when they +were to declare themselves in all their mighty power and fall upon the +devoted city with ruin in their grasp. But all this lay hidden in the +secret casket of time, and the city kept up to its record as one of the +liveliest and in many respects the most reckless and pleasure-loving +on the continent, its people squandering their money with thoughtless +improvidence and enjoying to the full all the good that life held out to +them. + +On the 17th of April, 1906, the city was, as usual, gay, careless, busy, +its people attending to business or pleasure with their ordinary vim as +inclination led them, and not a soul dreaming of the horrors that lay in +wait. They were as heedless of coming peril and death as the inhabitants +of Sodom and Gomorrah before the rain of fire from heaven descended upon +their devoted heads. This is not to say that they were doomed by God to +destruction like these "cities of the plains." We should more wisely +say that the forces of ruin within the earth take no heed of persons or +places. They come and go as the conditions of nature demand, and if man +has built one of his cities across their destined track, its doom comes +from its situation, not from the moral state of its inhabitants. + + +THE GREAT DISASTER OF 1906. + + +That night the people went, with their wonted equanimity, to their beds, +rich and poor, sick and well alike. Did any of them dream of disaster in +the air? It may be so, for often, as the poet tells us, "Coming events +cast their shadows before." But, forewarned by dreams or not, doubtless +not a soul in the great city was prepared for the terrible event so +near at hand, when, at thirteen minutes past five o'clock on the dread +morning of the 18th, they felt their beds lifted beneath them as if by +a Titan hand, heard the crash of falling walls and ceilings, and saw +everything in their rooms tossed madly about, while through their +windows came the roar of an awful disaster from the city without. + +It was a matter not of minutes, but of seconds, yet on all that coast, +long the prey of the earthquake, no shock like it had ever been felt, +no such sudden terror awakened, no such terrible loss occasioned as in +those few fearful seconds. Again and again the trembling of the earth +passed by, three quickly repeated shocks, and the work of the demon of +ruin was done. People woke with a start to find themselves flung from +their beds to the floor, many of them covered with the fragments of +broken ceilings, many lost among the ruins of falling floors and walls, +many pinned in agonizing suffering under the ruins of their houses, +which had been utterly wrecked in those fatal seconds. Many there were, +indeed, who had been flung to quick if not to instant death under their +ruined homes. + +Those seconds of the reign of the elemental forces had turned the +gayest, most careless city on the continent into a wreck which no words +can fitly describe. Those able to move stumbled in wild panic across the +floors of their heaving houses, regardless of clothing, of treasures, of +everything but the mad instinct for safety, and rushed headlong into the +streets, to find that the earth itself had yielded to the energy of its +frightful interior forces and had in places been torn and rent like the +houses themselves. New terrors assailed the fugitives as fresh tremors +shook the solid ground, some of them strong enough to bring down +shattered walls and chimneys, and bring back much of the mad terror of +the first fearful quake. The heaviest of these came at eight o'clock. +While less forcible than that which had caused the work of destruction, +it added immensely to the panic and dread of the people and put many of +the wanderers to flight, some toward the ferry, the great mass in the +direction of the sand dunes and Golden Gate Park. + +The spectacle of the entire population of a great city thus roused +suddenly from slumber by a fierce earthquake shock and sent flying into +the streets in utter panic, where not buried under falling walls or +tumbling debris, is one that can scarcely be pictured in words, and can +be given in any approach to exact realization only in the narratives of +those who passed through its horrors and experienced the sensations to +which it gave rise. Some of the more vivid of these personal accounts +will be presented later, but at present we must confine ourselves to a +general statement of the succession of events. + +The earthquake proved but the beginning and much the least destructive +part of the disaster. In many of the buildings there were fires, banked +for the night, but ready to kindle the inflammable material hurled down +upon them by the shock. In others were live electric wires which the +shock brought in contact with woodwork. The terror-stricken fugitives +saw, here and there, in all directions around them, the alarming vision +of red flames curling upward and outward, in gleaming contrast to the +white light of dawn just showing in the eastern sky. Those lurid gleams +climbed upward in devouring haste, and before the sun had fairly risen +a dozen or more conflagrations were visible in all sections of the +business part of the city, and in places great buildings broke with +startling suddenness into flame, which shot hotly high into the air. + +While the mass of the people were stunned by the awful suddenness of the +disaster and stood rooted to the ground or wandered helplessly about in +blank dismay, there were many alert and self-possessed among them who +roused themselves quickly from their dismay and put their energies +to useful work. Some of these gave themselves to the work of rescue, +seeking to save the injured from their perilous situation and draw +the bodies of the dead from the ruins under which they lay. Those base +wretches to whom plunder is always the first thought were as quickly +engaged in seeking for spoil in edifices laid open to their plundering +hands by the shock. Meanwhile the glare of the flames brought the +fire-fighters out in hot haste with their engines, and up from the +military station at the Presidio, on the Golden Gate side of the city, +came at double quick a force of soldiers, under the efficient command of +General Funston, of Cuban and Philippine fame. These trained troops were +at once put on guard over the city, with directions to keep the best +order possible, and with strict command to shoot all looters at sight. +Funston recognized at the start the necessity of keeping the lawless +element under control in such an exigency as that which he had to face. +Later in the day the First Regiment of California National Guards was +called out and put on duty, with similar orders. + + +RESCUERS AND FIRE-FIGHTERS. + + +The work of fighting the fire was the first and greatest duty to be +performed, but from the start it proved a very difficult, almost a +hopeless, task. With fierce fires burning at once in a dozen or more +separate places, the fire department of the city would have been +inadequate to cope with the demon of flame even under the best of +circumstances. As it was, they found themselves handicapped at the start +by a nearly total lack of water. The earthquake had disarranged and +broken the water mains and there was scarcely a drop of water to be had, +so that the engines proved next to useless. Water might be drawn from +the bay, but the centre of the conflagration was a mile or more away, +and this great body of water was rendered useless in the stringent +exigency. + +The only hope that remained to the authorities was to endeavor to check +the progress of the flames by the use of dynamite, blowing up buildings +in the line of progress of the conflagration. This was put in practice +without loss of time, and soon the thunder-like roar of the explosions +began, blasts being heard every few minutes, each signifying that some +building had been blown to atoms. But over the gaps thus made the flames +leaped, and though the brave fellows worked with a desperation and +energy of the most heroic type, it seemed as if all their labors were +to be without avail, the terrible fire marching on as steadily as if a +colony of ants had sought to stay its devastating progress. + + +THE HORROR OF THE PEOPLE. + + +It was with grief and horror that the mass of the people gazed on this +steady march of the army of ruin. They were seemingly half dazed by the +magnitude of the disaster, strangely passive in the face of the ruin +that surrounded them, as if stunned by despair and not yet awakened to +a realization of the horrors of the situation. Among these was the +possibility of famine. No city at any time carries more than a few days' +supply of provisions, and with the wholesale districts and warehouse +regions invaded by the flames the shortage of food made itself apparent +from the start. Water was even more difficult to obtain, the supply +being nearly all cut off. Those who possessed supplies of food and +liquids of any kind in many cases took advantage of the opportunity to +advance their prices. Thus an Associated Press man was obliged to pay +twenty-five cents for a small glass of mineral water, the only kind of +drink that at first was to be had, while food went up at the same rate, +bakers frequently charging as much as a dollar for a loaf. As for the +expressmen and cabmen, their charges were often practically prohibitory, +as much as fifty dollars being asked for the conveyance of a passenger +to the ferry. Policemen were early stationed at some of the retail +shops, regulating the sale and the price of food, and permitting only +a small portion to be sold to each purchaser, so as to prevent a few +persons from exhausting the supply. + +The fire, the swaying and tottering walls, the frequent dynamite +explosions, each followed by a crashing shower of stones and bricks, +rendered the streets very unsafe for pedestrians, and all day long +the flight of residents from the city went on, growing quickly to the +dimensions of a panic. The ferryboats were crowded with those who wished +to leave the city, and a constant stream of the homeless, carrying such +articles as they had rescued from their homes, was kept up all day +long, seeking the sand dunes, the parks and every place uninvaded by +the flames. Before night Golden Gate Park and the unbuilt districts +adjoining on the ocean side presented the appearance of a tented city, +shelter of many kinds being improvised from bedding and blankets, and +the people settling into such sparse comfort as these inadequate means +provided. + +A strange feature of the disaster was a rush to the banks by people who +wished to get their money and flee from the seemingly doomed city. The +fire front was yet distant from these institutions, which were destined +to fall a prey to the flames, and all that morning lines of dishevelled +and half-frantic men stood before the banks on Montgomery and Sansome +Streets, braving in their thirst for money the smoke and falling embers +and beating in wild anxiety upon the doors. Their effort was vain; the +doors remained closed; finally the police drove these people away, and +the banks went on with the work of saving their valuables. As for the +people who wildly fled toward the ferries, in spite of the fact that +ten blocks of fire, as the day went on, stopped all egress in that +direction, it became necessary for them to be driven back by the police +and the troops, and they were finally forced to seek safety in the +sands. And thus, with incident manifold, went on that fatal Wednesday, +the first day of the dread disaster. + + +OFFICIAL RECORD OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +It is important here to give the official record of the earthquake +shocks, as given by the scientists. Professor George Davidson, of the +University of California, says of them: + +"The earthquake came from north to south, and the only description I am +able to give of its effect is that it seemed like a terrier shaking a +rat. I was in bed, but was awakened by the first shock. I began to count +the seconds as I went towards the table where my watch was, being able +through much practice closely to approximate the time in that manner. +The shock came at 5.12 o'clock. The first sixty seconds were the most +severe. From that time on it decreased gradually for about thirty +seconds. There was then the slightest perceptible lull. Then the shock +continued for sixty seconds longer, being slighter in degree in this +minute than in any part of the preceding minute and a half. There were +two slight shocks afterwards which I did not time. At 8.14 o'clock +I recorded a shock of five seconds' duration, and one at 4.15 of two +seconds. There were slight shocks which I did not record at 5.17 and at +5.27. At 6.50 P. M. there was a sharp shock of several seconds." + +Professor A. O. Louschner, of the students' observatory of the +University of California, thus records his observations: + +"The principal part of the earthquake came in two sections, the first +series of vibrations lasting about forty seconds. The vibrations +diminished gradually during the following ten seconds, and then occurred +with renewed vigor for about twenty-five seconds more. But even at +noon the disturbance had not subsided, as slight shocks are recorded +at frequent intervals on the seismograph. The motion was from +south-southeast to north-northwest. + +"The remarkable feature of this earthquake, aside from its intensity, +was its rotary motion. As seen from the print, the sum total of all +displacements represents a very regular ellipse, and some of the +lines representing the earth's motion can be traced along the whole +circumference. The result of observation indicates that our heaviest +shocks are in the direction south-southeast to north-northwest. In that +respect the records of the three heaviest earthquakes agree entirely. +But they have several other features in common. One of these is +that while the displacements are very large the vibration period is +comparatively slow, amounting to about one second in the last two big +earthquakes." + +If we seek to discover the actual damage done by the earthquake, the +fact stands out that the fire followed so close upon it that the traces +of its ravages were in many cases obliterated. So many buildings in the +territory of the severest shock fell a prey to the flames or to dynamite +that the actual work of the earth forces was made difficult and in +many places impossible to discover. This fact is likely to lead to +considerable dispute and delay when the question of insurance adjustment +comes up, many of the insurance companies confining their risk to fire +damage and claiming exemption from liability in the case of damage due +to earthquake. + +Among the chief victims of the earth-shake was the costly and showy City +Hall, with its picturesque dome standing loftily above the structure. +This dome was left still erect, but only as a skeleton might stand, with +its flesh gone and its bare ribs exposed to the searching air. Its roof, +its smaller towers came tumbling down in frightful disarray, and the +once proud edifice is to-day a miserable wreck, fire having aided +earthquake in its ruin. The new Post Office, a handsome government +building, also suffered severely from the shock, its walls being badly +cracked and injury done by earthquake and fire that it is estimated will +need half a million dollars to repair. + + +FREAKS OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +One observer states that the earthquake appeared to be very irregular in +its course. He tells us that "there are gas reservoirs with frames all +twisted and big factories thrown to the ground, while a few yards away +are miserable shanties with not a board out of place. Wooden, steel and +brick structures hardly felt the earthquake in some parts of the city, +while in other places all were wrecked. + +"Skirting the shore northwest from the big ferry building--which was +so seriously injured that it will have to be rebuilt--the first thing +observed was the extraordinary irregularity of the earthquake's course. +Pier No. 5, for instance, is nothing but a mass of ruins, while Pier No. +3, on one side of it and Pier No. 7, on the other side, similar in size +and construction, are undamaged. Farther on, the Kosmos Line pier is a +complete wreck." + +The big forts at the entrance to the Golden Gate also suffered seriously +from the great shake-up, and the emplacements of the big guns were +cracked and damaged. The same is the case with the fortifications +back of Old Fort Point, the great guns in these being for the present +rendered useless. It will take much time and labor to restore their +delicate adjustment upon their carriages. + +The buildings that collapsed in the city were all flimsy wooden +buildings and old brick structures, the steel frame buildings, even +the score or more in course of construction, escaping injury from the +earthquake shock. Of the former, one of the most complete wrecks was +the Valencia Hotel, a four-story wooden building, which collapsed into a +heap of ruins, pinning many persons under its splintered timbers. + + +SKYSCRAPERS EARTHQUAKE PROOF. + + +In fact, as the reports of damage wrought by the earthquake came in, +the conviction grew that one of the safest places during the earthquake +shock was on one of the upper floors of the skyscraper office buildings +or hotels. As a matter of fact, not a single person, so far as can be +learned, lost his or her life or was seriously injured in any of the +tall, steel frame structures in the city, although they rocked during +the quake like a ship in a gale. + +The loss of life was caused in almost every case by the collapse of +frame structures, which the native San Franciscan believed was the +safest of all in an earthquake, or by the shaking down of portions of +brick or stone buildings which did not possess an iron framework. The +manner in which the tall steel structures withstood the shock is a +complete vindication of the strongest claims yet made for them, and it +is made doubly interesting from the fact that this is the first occasion +on which the effect of an earthquake of any proportions on a tall steel +structure could be studied. + +The St. Francis Hotel, a sixteen-story structure, can be repaired at an +expenditure of about $400,000, its damage being almost wholly by fire. +The steel shell and the floors are intact. Although the building rocked +like a ship in a gale while the quake lasted, its foundations are +undamaged. Other steel buildings which are so little damaged as to admit +of repairs more or less extensive are the James Flood, the Union Trust, +the CALL building, the Mutual Savings Bank, the Crocker-Woolworth +building and the Postal building. All of these are modern buildings of +steel construction, from sixteen to twenty stories. + +A peculiar feature of the effect of the earthquake on structures of this +kind is reported in the case of the Fairmount Hotel, a fourteen-story +structure. The first two stories of the Fairmount are found to be so +seriously damaged that they will have to be rebuilt, while the other +twelve stories are uninjured. + +Various explanations are being made of the surprising resistance shown +by the skyscrapers. The great strength and binding power of the steel +frame, combined with a deep-seated foundation and great lightness as +compared with buildings of stone, are the main reasons given. The iron, +it is said, unlike stone, responded to the vibratory force and passed it +along to be expended in other directions, while brick or stone offered +a solid and impenetrable front, with the result that the seismic force +tended to expend itself by shaking the building to pieces. + +Whether there is any scientific basis for the latter theory or not, it +seems reasonable enough, in view of the descriptions given us of the +manner in which the steel buildings received the shock. All things +considered, the modern steel building has afforded in the San Francisco +earthquake the most convincing evidence of its strength. + +From Golden Gate Park came news of the total destruction of the large +building covering a portion of the children's playground. The walls +were shattered beyond repair, the roof fell in, and the destruction was +complete. The pillars of the new stone gates at the park entrance were +twisted and torn from their foundations, some of them, weighing nearly +four tons, being shifted as though they were made of cork. It is a +little singular that the monuments and statues in the city escaped +without damage except in the case of the imposing Dewey Monument, in +Union Square Park, which suffered what appears to be a minor injury. + +In this connection an incident of extraordinary character is narrated. +Among the statues on the buildings of the Leland Stanford, Jr., +University, all of which were overthrown, was a marble statue of Carrara +in a niche on the building devoted to zoology and physiology. This in +falling broke through a hard cement pavement and buried itself in the +ground below, from which it was dug. The singular fact is that when +recovered it proved to be without a crack or scratch. This university +seemed to be a central point in the disturbance, the destruction of +its buildings being almost total, though they had been built with the +especial design of resisting earthquake shocks. + +Such was the general character of the earthquake at San Francisco and in +its vicinity. It may be said farther that all, or very nearly all, the +deaths and injuries were due to it directly or indirectly, even those +who perished by fire owing their deaths to the fact of their being +pinned in buildings ruined by the earthquake shock, while others were +killed by falling walls weakened by the same cause. + +On the night of April 23d the earth tremor returned with a slight shock, +only sufficient to cause a temporary alarm. On the afternoon of the 25th +came another and severer one, strong enough to shake down some tottering +walls and add another to the list of victims. This was a woman named +Annie Whitaker, who was at work in the kitchen of her home at the time. +The chimney, which had been weakened by the great shock, now fell, +crashing through the roof and fracturing her skull. Thus the earth +powers claimed a final human sacrifice before their dread visitation +ended. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +The Demon of Fire Invades the Stricken City. + + +The terrors of the earthquake are momentary. One fierce, levelling shock +and usually all is over. The torment within the earth has passed on and +the awakened forces of the earth's crust sink into rest again, after +having shaken the surface for many leagues. Rarely does the dread agent +of ruin leave behind it such a terrible follower to complete its work +as was the case in the doomed city of San Francisco. All seemed to lead +towards such a carnival of ruin as the earth has rarely seen. The demon +of fire followed close upon the heels of the unseen fiend of the earth's +hidden caverns, and ran red-handed through the metropolis of the West, +kindling a thousand unhurt buildings, while the horror-stricken people +stood aghast in terror, as helpless to combat this new enemy as they +were to check the ravages of the earthquake itself. + +Why not quench the fire at its start with water? Alas! there was no +water, and this expedient was a hopeless one. The iron mains which +carried the precious fluid under the city streets were broken or injured +so that no quenching streams were to be had. In some cases the engine +houses had been so damaged that the fire-fighting apparatus could not be +taken out, though even if it had it would have been useless. A sweeping +conflagration and not an ounce of water to throw upon it! The situation +of the people was a maddening one. They were forced helplessly and +hopelessly to gaze upon the destruction of their all, and it is no +marvel if many of them grew frantic and lost their reason at the sight. +Thousands gathered and looked on in blank and pitiful misery, their +strong hands, their iron wills of no avail, while the red-lipped fire +devoured the hopes of their lives. + +In a dozen, a hundred, places the flames shot up redly. Huge, strong +buildings which the earthquake had spared fell an unresisting prey +to the flames. The great, iron-bound, towering Spreckles building, +a steeple-like structure, of eighteen stories in height, the tallest +skyscraper in the city, had resisted the earthquake and remained proudly +erect. But now the flames gathered round and assailed it. From both +sides came their attack. A broad district near by, containing many large +hotels and lodging houses, was being fiercely burnt out, and soon the +windows of the lofty building cracked and splintered, the flames shot +triumphantly within, and almost in an instant the vast interior was a +seething furnace, the wild flames rushing and leaping within until only +the blackened walls remained. + + +THE RESISTLESS MARCH OF THE FLAMES. + + +This was the region of the newspaper offices, and they quickly +succumbed. The Examiner, standing across Third Street from Spreckles, +collapsed from the earthquake shock. A flimsy edifice, it had long been +looked upon as dangerous. Another building in the rear of this alone +resisted both flames and smoke. Across Market Street from the Examiner +stood the Chronicle building, a dozen stories high. Firmly built, it +had borne the earthquake assault unharmed, but the flames were an enemy +against which it had no defense, and it was quickly added to the victims +of the fire-fiend. + +Farther down Market Street, the chief business thoroughfare of the city, +stood that great caravansary, the Palace Hotel, which for thirty years +had been a favorite hostelry, housing the bulk of the visitors to the +Californian metropolis. Its time had come. Doom hovered over it. Its +guests had fled in good season, as they saw the irresistible approach of +the conquering flames. Soon it was ablaze; quickly from every window of +its broad front the tongues of flame curled hotly in the air; it became +a thrice-heated furnace, like so many of the neighboring structures, +adding its quota to the vast cloud of smoke that hung over the burning +city, and rapidly sinking in red ruin to the earth. + +All day Wednesday the fire spread unchecked, all efforts to stay its +devouring fury proving futile. In the business section of the city +everything was in ruins. Not a business house was left standing. +Theatres crumbled into smouldering heaps. Factories and commission +houses sank to red ruin before the devouring flames. The scene was like +that of ancient Babylon in its fall, or old Rome when set on fire by +Nero's command, as tradition tells. In modern times there has been +nothing to equal it except the conflagration at Chicago, when the flames +swept to ruin that queen city of the Great Lakes. + +When night fell and the sun withdrew his beams the spectacle was one at +once magnificent and awe-inspiring. The city resembled one vast blazing +furnace. Looking over it from a high hill in the western section, the +flames could be seen ascending skyward for miles upon miles, while in +the midst of the red spirals of flame could be seen at intervals the +black skeletons and falling towers of doomed buildings. Above all +this hung a dense pall of smoke, showing lurid where the flames were +reflected from its dark and threatening surface. To those nearer the +scene presented many pathetic and distressing features, the fire glare +throwing weird shadows over the worn and panic-stricken faces of the +woe-begone fugitives, driven from their homes and wandering the streets +in helpless misery. Many of them lay sleeping on piles of blankets and +clothing which they had brought with them, or on the hard sidewalks, or +the grass of the open parks. + + +THE CARE OF THE WOUNDED. + + +Through all the streets ambulances and express wagons were hurrying, +carrying dead and injured to morgues and hospitals. But these refuges +for the wounded or receptacles for the dead were no safer than the +remainder of the city. In the morgue at the Hall of Justice fifty bodies +lay, but the approach of the flames rendered it necessary to remove +to Jackson Square these mutilated remnants of what had once been men. +Hospitals were also abandoned at intervals, doctors and nurses being +forced to remove their patients in haste from the approaching flames. + +There is an open park opposite City Hall. Here the Board of Supervisors +met, and, with fifty substantial citizens who joined them, formed a +Committee of Safety, to take in hand the direction of affairs and +to seek safe quarters for the dying and the dead. Strangely enough, +Mechanics' Pavilion, opposite City Hall, had escaped injury from the +earthquake, though it was only a wooden building. It had the largest +floor in San Francisco, and was pressed into service at once. The police +and the troops, working in harmony together, passed the word that the +dead and injured should be brought there, the hospitals and morgue +having become choked, and the order was quickly obeyed, until about +400 of the hurt, many of them terribly mangled, were laid in improvised +cots, attended by all the physicians and trained nurses who could be +obtained. + +The corpses were much fewer, the workers being too busy in fighting the +fire and caring for the wounded to give time and attention as yet to +the dead. But one of the first wagons to arrive brought a whole +family--father, mother and three children--all dead except the baby, +which had a broken arm and a terrible cut across the forehead. They had +been dragged from the ruins of their house on the water front. A large +consignment of bodies, mostly of workingmen, came from a small hotel on +Eddy Street, through the roof of which the upper part of a tall building +next door had fallen, crushing all below. + + +FIRE ATTACKS THE MINT. + + +To return to the story of the conflagration, the escape of the United +States Mint was one of the most remarkable incidents. Within the vaults +of this fine structure was the vast sum of $300,000,000 in gold and +silver coin and a value of $8,000,000 in bullion, and toward this mighty +sum of wealth the flames swept on all sides, as if eager to add the +reservoir of the precious metals to their spoils. The Mint building +passed through the earthquake with little damage, though its big +smokestacks were badly shaken. The fire seemed bent on making it its +prey, every building around it being burned to the ground, and it +remaining the only building for blocks that escaped destruction. + +Its safety was due to the energy and activity of its employees. +Superintendent Leach reached it shortly after the shock and found a +number of men already there, whom he stationed at points of vantage +from roof to basement. The fire apparatus of the Mint was brought into +service and help given by the fire department, and after a period of +strenuous labor the flames were driven back. The peril for a time was +critical, the windows on Mint Avenue taking fire and also those on the +rear three stories, and the flames for a time pouring in and driving +back the workers. The roof also caught fire, but the men within fought +like Titans, and efficient aid was given by a squad of soldiers sent +to them. In the end the fire fiend was vanquished, though considerable +damage was done to the adjusting rooms and the refinery, while the heavy +stone cornice on that side of the building was destroyed. The total loss +to the Mint was later estimated at $15,000. + +Late on Wednesday evening the fire front crept close up to Mechanics' +Pavilion, where a corps of fifty physicians and numerous nurses were +active in the work of relief to the wounded. Ambulances and automobiles +were busy unloading new patients rescued from the ruins when word came +that the building would have to be vacated in haste. Every available +vehicle was at once pressed into service and the patients removed as +rapidly as possible, being taken to hospitals and private houses in the +safer parts of the city. Hardly had the last of the injured been carried +through the door when the roof was seen to be in a blaze, and shortly +afterward the whole building burst into a whirlwind of flame. + +At midnight the fire was raging and roaring with unslacked rage, and at +dawn of Thursday its fury was undiminished. The work of destruction +was already immense. In much of the Hayes Valley district, south of +McAllister and north of Market Street, the destruction was complete. +From the Mechanics' Pavilion and St. Nicholas Hotel opposite down to +Oakland Ferry the journey was heartrending, the scene appalling. On each +side was ruin, nothing but ruin, and hillocks of masonry and heaps of +rubbish of every description filled to its middle the city's greatest +thoroughfare. + +Across an alley from the Post Office stood the Grant Building, one of +the headquarters of the army. Of this only the smoke-darkened walls were +left. On Market Street opposite this building the beautiful front of +the Hibernian Savings Bank, the favorite institution of the middle and +poorer classes, presented a hideous aspect of ruin. At eleven o'clock +of Wednesday night the north side of Market Street stood untouched, and +hopes were entertained that the great Flood, Crocker, Phelan and other +buildings would be spared, but the hunger of the fire fiend was not yet +satiated, and the following day these proud structures had only their +blackened ruins to show. On both sides of Market Street, down to the +ferry, the tale was the same. The handsome and gigantic St. Francis +Hotel, on Powell Street, fronting on Union Square, was left a ruined +shell. This was one of the lofty steel structures that bore unharmed the +earthquake shock, but quickly succumbed to the flames. Among the other +skyscrapers north of Market Street that perished were the fourteen-story +Merchants' Exchange, and the great Mills Building, occupying almost an +entire block. + +One section of the city that went without pity, as it had long stood +with reprobation, was that group of disreputable buildings known as +Chinatown, the place of residence of many thousands of Celestials. +The flames made their way unchecked in this direction, and by noon on +Thursday the whole section was a raging furnace, the denizens escaping +with what they could carry of their simple possessions. On the farther +western side the flames cut a wide swath to Van Ness Avenue, a wide +thoroughfare, at which it was hoped the march of the fire in this +direction might be checked, especially as the water mains here furnished +a weak supply. + +In the Missouri district, to the south of Market Street, the zone of +ruin extended westward toward the extreme southern portion, but was +checked at Fourteenth and Missouri Streets by the wholesale use of +dynamite. At this point were located the Southern Pacific Hospital, +the St. Francis Hospital and the College of Physicians and Surgeons. +In order to save these institutions, buildings were blown up all around +them, and by noon the danger was averted. It later became necessary to +destroy the Southern Pacific Hospital with dynamite, the patients having +been removed to places of safety. + + +THE PALACES ON NOB'S HILL. + + +In the centre of San Francisco rises the aristocratic elevation known +as Nob's Hill, on which the early millionaires built their homes, and on +which stood the city's most palatial residences. It ascends so abruptly +from Kearney Street that it is inaccessible to any kind of vehicle, the +slope being at any angle little short of forty-five degrees. It is as +steep on the south side, and the only approach by carriage is from the +north. To this hill is due the pioneer cable railway, built in the early +'70's. + +Here the "big four" of the railroad magnates--Stanford, Hopkins, +Huntington and Crocker--had put millions in their mansions, the Mark +Hopkins residence being said to have cost $2,500,000. These men are all +dead, and the last named edifice has been converted into the Hopkins Art +Institute, and at the time of the fire was well filled with costly art +treasures. The Stanford Museum, which also contains valuable objects of +art, is now the property of the Leland Stanford University. The +Flood mansion, which cost more than $1,000,000, was one of the showy +residences on this hill, west of it being the Huntington home and +farther west the Crocker residence, with its broad lawns and magnificent +stables. Many other beautiful and costly houses stood on this hill, and +opposite the Stanford and Hopkins edifices the great Fairmount Hotel had +for two years past been in process of construction and was practically +completed. On the northeastern slope of this hill stood the famous +Chinatown, through which it was necessary to pass to ascend Nob's Hill +from the principal section of the wholesale district. + +This region of palaces was the next to fall a prey to the insatiable +flames. Early Thursday morning a change in the wind sent the fire +westward, eating its way from the water front north of Market Street +toward Nob's Hill. Steadily but surely it climbed the slope, and the +Stanford and Hopkins edifices fell victims to its fury. Others of the +palaces of millionairedom followed. Huge clouds of smoke enveloped the +beautiful white stone Fairmount Hotel, and there was a general feeling +of horror when this magnificent structure seemed doomed. To it the +Committee of Safety had retreated, but the flames from the burning +buildings opposite reached it, and the committee once more migrated in +search of safe quarters. Fortunately, it escaped with little damage, its +walls remaining intact and much of the interior being left in a state +of preservation, warranting its managers to offer space within it to the +committees whose aim it was to help the homeless or to store supplies. +Some of the woodwork of the building was destroyed by the fire, but +the structure was in such good condition that work on it was quickly +resumed, with the statement that its completion would not be delayed +more than three months beyond the date set, which was November, 1906. + +In the district extending northwestwardly from Kearney Street and +Montgomery Avenue, untouched during the first day, the fire spread +freely on the second. This district embraces the Latin quarter, +peopled by various nationalities, the houses being of the flimsiest +construction. Once it had gained a foothold there, the fire swept onward +as though making its way through a forest in the driest summer season. + +An apochryphal incident is told of the fire in this quarter, which may +be repeated as one example of the fables set afloat. It is stated that +water to fight the fire here was sadly lacking, the only available +supply being from an old well. At a critical moment the pump sucked +dry, the water in the well being exhausted. The residents were not yet +conquered. Some of them threw open their cellar doors and, calling for +assistance, began to roll out barrels of red wine. Barrel after barrel +appeared, until fully five hundred gallons were ready for use. Then the +barrel heads were smashed in and the bucket brigade turned from water to +wine. Sacks were dipped in the wine and used for fighting the fire. Beds +were stripped of their blankets and these soaked in the wine and hung +over exposed portions of the cottages, while men on the roofs drenched +the shingles and sides of the houses with wine. The postscript to this +queer story is that the wine won and the firefighters saved their homes. +The story is worth retelling, though it may be added that wine, if +it contained much alcohol, would serve as a feeder rather than as an +extinguisher of flame. + +A striking description of the aspect of the city on that terrible +Wednesday is told by Jerome B. Clark, whose home was in Berkeley, but +who did business in San Francisco. He left for the city early Wednesday +morning, after a minor shake-up at home, which he thus describes: + + +A VIVID FIRE PICTURE. + + +"I was asleep and was awakened by the house rocking. With the exception +of water in vases, and milk in pans being spilled, and one of our +chimneys badly cracked, we escaped with nothing but a bad scare, but I +can assure you it was a terrific and terrifying experience to feel that +old house rocking, jolting and jumping under us, with the most terrible +roar, dull, deep and nerve-racking. It calmed down after that and we +went back to bed, only to get up at six o'clock to find that neighbors +had suffered by having vases knocked from tables, bric-a-brac knocked +around, tiles knocked out of grates and scarcely a chimney left +standing. We thought that we had had the worst of it, so I started over +to the city as usual, reaching there about eight o'clock, and it is just +impossible to describe the scenes that met my eyes. + +"In every direction from the ferry building flames were seething, and +as I stood there, a five-story building half a block away fell with a +crash, and the flames swept clear across Market Street and caught a +new fireproof building recently erected. The streets in places had sunk +three or four feet, in others great humps had appeared four or five feet +high. The street car tracks were bent and twisted out of shape. Electric +wires lay in every direction. Streets on all sides were filled with +brick and mortar, buildings either completely collapsed or brick fronts +had just dropped completely off. Wagons with horses hitched to them, +drivers and all, lying on the streets, all dead, struck and killed by +the falling bricks, these mostly the wagons of the produce dealers, +who do the greater part of their work at that hour of the morning. +Warehouses and large wholesale houses of all descriptions either down, +or walls bulging, or else twisted, buildings moved bodily two or three +feet out of a line and still standing with walls all cracked. + +"The Call building, a twelve-story skyscraper, stood, and looked all +right at first glance, but had moved at the base two feet at one end out +into the sidewalk, and the elevators refused to work, all the interior +being just twisted out of shape. It afterward burned as I watched it. I +worked my way in from the ferry, climbing over piles of brick and mortar +and keeping to the centre of the street and avoiding live wires that +lay around on every side, trying to get to my office. I got within two +blocks of it and was stopped by the police on account of falling walls. +I saw that the block in which I was located was on fire, and seemed +doomed, so turned back and went up into the city. + +"Not knowing San Francisco, you would not know the various buildings, +but fires were blazing in all directions, and all of the finest and best +of the office and business buildings were either burning or surrounded. +They pumped water from the bay, but the fire was soon too far away from +the water front to make any efforts in this direction of much avail. +The water mains had been broken by the earthquake, and so there was no +supply for the fire engines and they were helpless. The only way out +of it was to dynamite, and I saw some of the finest and most beautiful +buildings in the city, new modern palaces, blown to atoms. First they +blew up one or two buildings at a time. Finding that of no avail, they +took half a block; that was no use; then they took a block; but in spite +of them all the fire kept on spreading. + +"The City Hall, which, while old, was quite a magnificent building, +occupying a large square block of land, was completely wrecked by the +earthquake, and to look upon reminded one of the pictures of ancient +ruins of Rome or Athens. The Palace Hotel stood for a long time after +everything near it had gone, but finally went up in smoke as the rest. +You could not look in any direction in the city but what mass after mass +of flame stared you in the face. To get about one had to dodge from one +street to another, back and forth in zigzag fashion, and half an hour +after going through a street, it would be impassable. One after another +of the magnificent business blocks went down. The newer buildings seemed +to have withstood the shock better than any others, except well-built +frame buildings. The former lost some of the outside shell, but the +frame stood all right, and in some cases after fire had eaten them all +to pieces, the steel skeleton, although badly twisted and warped, still +stood. + +"When I finally left the city, it was all in flames as far as Eighth +Street, which is about a mile and a quarter or half from the water +front. I had to walk at least two miles around in order to get to the +ferry building, and when I got there you could see no buildings standing +in any direction. Nearly all the docks caved in or sheds were knocked +down, and all the streets along the water front were a mass of seams, +upheavals and depressions, car tracks twisted in all shapes. Cars that +had stood on sidings were all in ashes and still burning." + +Wednesday's conflagration continued unabated throughout Thursday, and it +was not until late on Friday that the fire-fighters got it safely +under control. They worked like heroes, struggling almost without rest, +keeping up the nearly hopeless conflict until they fairly fell in their +tracks from fatigue. Handicapped by the lack of water, they in one +case brought it from the bay through lines of hose well on to a mile +in length. Yet despite all they could do block after block of San +Francisco's greatest buildings succumbed to the flames and sank in red +ruin before their eyes. + + +THE LANDMARKS CONSUMED. + + +On all sides famous landmarks yielded to the fury of the flames. +For three miles along the water front the ground was swept clean +of buildings, the blackened beams and great skeletons of factories, +warehouses and business edifices standing silhouetted against a +background of flames, while the whole commercial and office quarter of +Market Street suffered a similar fate. We may briefly instance some of +these victims of the flames. + +Among them were the Occidental Hotel, on Montgomery Street, for years +the headquarters for army officers; the old Lick House, built by James +Lick, the philanthropist; the California Hotel and Theatre, on Bush +Street; and of theatres, the Orpheum, the Alcazar, the Majestic, the +Columbia, the Magic, the Central, Fisher's and the Grand Opera House, on +Missouri Street, where the Conried Opera Company had just opened for a +two weeks' opera season. + +The banks that fell were numerous, including the Nevada National Bank, +the California, the Canadian Bank of Commerce, the First National, the +London and San Francisco, the London, Paris and American, the Bank +of British North America, the German-American Savings Bank and the +Crocker-Woolworth Bank building. A large number of splendid apartment +houses were also destroyed, and the tide of destruction swept away a +host of noble buildings far too numerous to mention. + +At Post Street and Grant Avenue stood the Bohemian Club, one of the +widest known social organizations in the world. Its membership included +many men famous in art, literature and commerce. Its rooms were +decorated with the works of members, many of whose names are known +wherever paintings are discussed and many of them priceless in their +associations. Most of these were saved. There were on special exhibition +in the "Jinks" room of the Bohemian Club a dozen paintings by old +masters, including a Rembrandt, a Diaz, a Murillo and others, probably +worth $100,000. These paintings were lost with the building, which went +down in the flames. + +One of the great losses was that of St. Ignatius' Church and College, at +Van Ness Avenue and Hayes Street, the greatest Jesuitical institution +in the west, which cost a couple of millions of dollars. The Merchants' +Exchange building, a twelve-story structure, eleven of whose floors were +occupied as offices by the Southern Pacific Railroad Company, was added +to the sum of losses. + + +THE FIRE UNDER CONTROL. + + +For three long days the terrible fire fiend kept up his work, and the +fight went on until late on Friday, when the sweep of the flames was at +length checked and the fire brought under control. The principal agent +in this victory was dynamite, which was freely used. To its work +a separate chapter will be devoted. When at length the area of the +conflagration was limited the wealthiest part of the city lay in embers +and ashes, one of the principal localities to escape being Pacific +Heights, a mile west from Nob's Hill, on which stood many costly homes +of recent construction. + +On Friday night the fire that had worked its way from Nob's Hill to +North Beach Street, sweeping that quarter clean of buildings, veered +before a fierce wind and made its way southerly to the great sea wall, +with its docks and grain warehouses. The flames reached the tanks of the +San Francisco Gas Company, which had previously been pumped out, and on +Saturday morning the grain sheds on the water front, about half a mile +north of the ferry station, were fiercely burning. But the fire here was +confined to a small area, and, with the work of fireboats in the bay and +of the firemen on shore, who used salt water pumped into their engines, +it was prevented from reaching the ferry building and the docks in that +vicinity. + +The buildings on a high slope between Van Ness and Polk Streets, Union +and Filbert Streets, were blazing fiercely, fanned by a high wind, but +the blocks here were so thinly settled that the fire had little +chance of spreading widely from this point. In fact, it was at length +practically under control, and the entire western addition of the city +west of Van Ness Avenue was safe from the flames. The great struggle was +fairly at an end, and the brave force of workers were at length given +some respite from their strenuous labors. + +During the height of the struggle and the days of exhaustion and +depression that followed, exaggerated accounts of the losses and of the +area swept by the flames were current, some estimate making the extent +of the fire fifteen square miles out of the total of twenty-five square +miles of the city's area. It was not until Friday, the 27th, that an +official survey of the burned district, made by City Surveyor Woodward, +was completed, and the total area burned over found to be 2,500 acres, a +trifle less than four square miles. This, however, embraced the heart of +the business section and many of the principal residence streets, much +of the saved area being occupied by the dwellings of the poorer people, +so that the money loss was immensely greater than the percentage of +ground burned over would indicate. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Fighting the Flames With Dynamite. + + +Shaken by earthquake, swept by flames, the water supply cut off by the +breaking of the mains, the authorities of the doomed city for a time +stood appalled. What could be done to stay the fierce march of the +flames which were sweeping resistlessly over palace and hovel alike, +over stately hall and miserable hut? Water was not to be had; what was +to take its place? Nothing remained but to meet ruin with ruin, to make +a desert in the path of the fire and thus seek to stop its march. They +had dynamite, gunpowder and other explosives, and in the frightful +exigency there was nothing else to be used. Only for a brief interval +did the authorities yield to the general feeling of helplessness. Then +they aroused themselves to the demands of the occasion and prepared to +do all in the power of man in the effort to arrest the conflagration. + +While the soldiers under General Funston took military charge of the +city, squads of cavalry and troops of infantry patrolling the streets +and guarding the sections that had not yet been touched by the flames, +Mayor Schmitz and Chief of Police Dinan sprang into the breach and +prepared to make a desperate charge against the platoons of the fire. +This was not all that was needed to be done. From the "Barbary Coast," +as the resort of the vicious and criminal classes was called, hordes of +wretches poured out as soon as night fell, seeking to slip through the +guards and loot stores and rob the dead in the burning section. Orders +were given to the soldiers to kill all who were engaged in such work, +and these orders were carried out. An associated Press reporter saw +three of these thieves shot and fatally wounded, and doubtless others of +them were similarly dealt with elsewhere. + +A band of fire-fighters was quickly organized by the Mayor and Chief +of Police, and the devoted firemen put themselves in the face of the +flames, determined to do their utmost to stay them in their course. Cut +off from the use of their accustomed engines and water streams, which +might have been effective if brought into play at the beginning of the +struggle, there was nothing to work with but the dynamite cartridge and +the gunpowder mine, and they set bravely to work to do what they could +with these. On every side the roar of explosions could be heard, and +the crash of falling walls came to the ear, while people were forced +to leave buildings which still stood, but which it was decided must be +felled. Frequently a crash of stone and brick, followed by a cloud of +dust, gave warning to pedestrians that destruction was going on in the +forefront of the flames, and that travel in such localities was unsafe. + + +FIGHTING THE FLAMES. + + +All through the night of Wednesday and the morning of Thursday this +work went on, hopelessly but resolutely. During the following day blasts +could be heard in different sections at intervals of a few minutes, and +buildings not destroyed by fire were blown to atoms, but over the gaps +jumped the live flames, and the disheartened fire-fighters were driven +back step by step; but they continued the work with little regard for +their own safety and with unflinching desperation. + +One instance of the peril they ran may be given. Lieutenant Charles +O. Pulis, commanding the Twenty-fourth Company of Light Artillery, +had placed a heavy charge of dynamite in a building at Sixth and Jesse +Streets. For some reason it did not explode, and he returned to relight +the fuse, thinking it had become extinguished. While he was in the +building the explosion took place, and he received injuries that seemed +likely to prove fatal, his skull being fractured and several bones +broken, while he was injured internally. In the early morning, when the +fire reached the municipal building on Portsmouth Square, the nurses, +with the aid of soldiers, got out fifty bodies which were in the +temporary morgue and a number of patients from the receiving hospital. +Just after they reached the street with their gruesome charge a building +was blown up, and the flying bricks and splinters came falling upon +them. The nurses fortunately escaped harm, but several of the +soldiers were hurt, and had to be taken with the other patients to the +out-of-doors Presidio hospital. + +The Southern Pacific Hospital, at Fourteenth and Missouri Streets, was +among the buildings destroyed by dynamite, the patients having been +removed to places of safety, and the Linda Vista and the Pleasanton, +two large family hotels on Jones Street, in the better part of the +city, were also among those blown up to stay the progress of the +conflagration. + + +THE STRUGGLE AGAINST THE FIRE. + + +The fire had continued to creep onward and upward until it reached the +summit of Nob Hill, a district of splendid residences, and threatened +the handsome Fairmount Hotel, then the headquarters of the Municipal +Council, acting as a Committee of Public Safety. As day broke the flames +seized upon this beautiful structure, and the Council was forced to +retreat to new quarters. They finally met in the North End Police +Station, on Sacramento Street, and there entered actively upon their +duties of seeking to check the progress of the flames, maintain order +in the city and control and direct the host of fugitives, many of whom, +still in a state of semi-panic, were moving helplessly to and fro and +sadly needed wise counsels and a helping hand. + +The fire-fighters meanwhile kept up their indefatigable work under the +direction of the Mayor and the chief of their department. The engines +almost from the start had proved useless from lack of water, and were +either abandoned or moved to the outlying districts, in the vain hope +that the water mains might be repaired in time to permit of a final +stand against the whirlwind march of the flames. The cloud of despair +grew darker still as the report spread that the city's supply of +dynamite had given out. + +"No more dynamite! No more dynamite!" screamed a fireman as he ran up +Ellis Street past the doomed Flood building at two o'clock on Friday +morning, tears standing in his smoke-smirched eyes. + +"No more dynamite! O God! no more dynamite! We are lost!" moaned the +throng that heard his despairing words. + + +A NEW SUPPLY OF EXPLOSIVES. + + +So, at that hour, the supply of the explosive exhausted, and not a +dozen streams of water being thrown in the entire fire zone, the stunned +firemen and the stupefied people stood helpless with their eyes fixed in +despair upon the swiftly creeping flames. + +Had all been like these the entire city would have been doomed, but +there were those at the head of affairs who never for a moment gave +up their resolution. Dynamite and giant powder were to be had in +the Presidio military reservation, and a requisition upon the army +authorities was made. The louder reverberations as the day advanced and +night came on showed that a fresh supply had been obtained, and that a +new and determined campaign against the conflagration had been entered +upon. Hitherto much of the work had been ignorantly and carelessly done, +and by the hasty and premature use of explosives more harm than good had +been occasioned. + +As the fire continued to spread in spite of the heroic work of the +fighting corps, the Committee of Safety called a meeting at noon on +Friday and decided to blow up all the residences on the east side of Van +Ness Avenue, between Golden Gate and Pacific Avenues, a distance of one +mile. Van Ness Avenue is one of the most fashionable streets of the city +and has a width of 125 feet, a fact which led to the idea that a safety +line might be made here too broad for the flames to cross. + +The firemen, therefore, although exhausted from over twenty-four hours' +work and lack of food, determined to make a desperate stand at this +point. They declared that should the fire cross Van Ness Avenue and the +wind continue its earlier direction toward the west, the destruction of +San Francisco would be virtually complete. The district west of Van +Ness Avenue and north of McAllister constitutes the finest part of the +metropolis. Here are located all of the finer homes of the well-to-do +and wealthier classes, and the resolution to destroy them was the last +resort of desperation. + +Hundreds of police, regiments of soldiers and scores of volunteers +were sent into the doomed district to warn the people to flee. They +heroically responded to the demand of law and went bravely on their way, +leaving their loved homes and trudging painfully over the pavements with +the little they could carry away of their treasured possessions. + +The reply of a grizzled fire engineer standing at O'Farrell Street and +Van Ness Avenue, beside a blackened engine, may not have been as terse +as that of Hugo's guardsman at Waterloo, but the pathos of it must have +been as great. In answer to the question of what they proposed to do, he +said: + +"We are waiting for it to come. When it gets here we will make one more +stand. If it crosses Van Ness Avenue the city is gone." + + +THE SAVERS OF THE CITY. + + +Yet the work now to be done was much too important to be left to the +hands of untrained volunteers. Skilled engineers were needed, men used +to the scientific handling of explosives, and it was men of this kind +who finally saved what is left to-day of the city. Three men saved San +Francisco, so far as any San Francisco existed after the fire had worked +its will, these three constituting the dynamite squad who faced and +defied the demon at Van Ness Avenue. + +When the burning city seemed doomed and the flames lit the sky farther +and farther to the west, Admiral McCalla sent a trio of his most trusted +men from Mare Island with orders to check the conflagration at any cost +of property. With them they brought a ton and a half of guncotton. The +terrific power of the explosive was equal to the maniac determination +of the fire. Captain MacBride was in charge of the squad, Chief Gunner +Adamson placed the charges and the third gunner set them off. + +Stationing themselves on Van Ness Avenue, which the conflagration was +approaching with leaps and bounds from the burning business section of +the city, they went systematically to work, and when they had ended a +broad open space, occupied only by the dismantled ruins of buildings, +remained of what had been a long row of handsome and costly residences, +which, with all their treasures of furniture and articles of decoration, +had been consigned to hideous ruin. + +The thunderous detonations, to which the terrified city listened all +that dreadful Friday night, meant much to those whose ears were deafened +by them. A million dollars' worth of property, noble residences +and worthless shacks alike, were blown to drifting dust, but that +destruction broke the fire and sent the raging flames back over their +own charred path. The whole east side of Van Ness Avenue, from the +Golden Gate to Greenwich, a distance of twenty-two blocks, or a mile and +a half, was dynamited a block deep, though most of the structures as yet +had stood untouched by spark or cinder. Not one charge failed. Not one +building stood upon its foundation. + +Unless some second malicious miracle of nature should reverse the +direction of the west wind, by nine o'clock it was felt that the +populous district to the west, blocked with fleeing refugees and +unilluminated except by the disastrous glare on the water front, was +safe. Every pound of guncotton did its work, and though the ruins +burned, it was but feebly. From Golden Gate Avenue north the fire +crossed the wide street in but one place. That was at the Claus +Spreckels place, on the corner of California Street. + +There the flames were writhing up the walls before the dynamiters could +reach the spot. Yet they made their way to the foundations, carrying +their explosives, despite the furnace-like heat. The charge had to be +placed so swiftly and the fuse lit in such a hurry that the explosion +was not quite successful from the trained viewpoint of the gunners. But +though the walls still stood, it was only an empty victory for the fire, +as bare brick and smoking ruins are poor food for flames. + +Captain MacBride's dynamiting squad had realized that a stand was +hopeless except on Van Ness Avenue, their decision thus coinciding with +that of the authorities. They could have forced their explosives farther +in the burning section, but not a pound of guncotton could be or was +wasted. The ruined blocks of the wide thoroughfare formed a trench +through the clustered structures that the conflagration, wild as it was, +could not leap. Engines pumping brine through Fort Mason from the bay +completed the little work that the guncotton had left, but for three +days the haggard-eyed firemen guarded the flickering ruins. + +The desolate waste straight through the heart of the city remained +a mute witness to the most heroic and effective work of the whole +calamity. Three men did this, and when their work was over and what +stood of the city rested quietly for the first time, they departed as +modestly as they had come. They were ordered to save San Francisco, +and they obeyed orders, and Captain MacBride and his two gunners made +history on that dreadful night. + +They stayed the march of the conflagration at that critical point, +leaving it no channel to spread except along the wharf region, in which +its final force was spent. One side of Van Ness Avenue was gone; the +other remained, the fire leaping the broad open space only feebly in a +few places, where it was easily extinguished. + +In this connection it is well to put on record an interesting +circumstance. This is that there is one place within pistol shot of San +Francisco that the earthquake did not touch, that did not lose a chimney +or feel a tremor. That spot is Alcatraz Island. Despite the fact that +the island is covered with brick buildings, brick forts and brick +chimneys, not a brick was loosened nor a crack made nor a quiver felt. +When the scientist comes to write he will have his hands full explaining +why Alcatraz did not have any physical knowledge of the event. It was as +if New York were to be shaken to its foundation, and Governor's Island, +quietly pursuing its military routine, should escape without a qualm. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Reign of Destruction and Devastation + + +Rarely, in the whole history of mankind, has a great city been +overwhelmed by destruction so suddenly and awfully as was San Francisco. +One minute its inhabitants slept in seeming safety and security. Another +minute passed and the whole great city seemed tumbling around them, +while sights of terror met the eyes of the awakened multitude and sounds +of horror came to their ears. The roar of destruction filled the air as +the solid crust of the earth lifted and fell and the rocks rose and sank +in billowing waves like those of the open sea. + +Not all, it is true, were asleep. There was the corps of night workers, +whose duties keep them abroad till day dawns. There were those whose +work calls them from their homes in the early morn. People of this kind +were in the streets and saw the advent of the reign of devastation in +its full extent. From the story of one of these, P. Barrett, an editor +on the Examiner, we select a thrilling account of his experience on that +morning of awe. + + +AN EDITOR'S NARRATIVE. + + +"I have seen this whole, great horror. I stood with two other members +of the Examiner staff on the corner of Market Street, waiting for a car. +Newspaper duties had kept us working until five o'clock in the morning. +Sunlight was coming out of the early morning mist. It spread its +brightness on the roofs of the skyscrapers, on the domes and spires of +churches, and blazed along up the wide street with its countless banks +and stores, its restaurants and cafes. In the early morning the city was +almost noiseless. Occasionally a newspaper wagon clattered up the street +or a milk wagon rumbled along. One of my companions had told a funny +story. We were laughing at it. We stopped--the laugh unfinished on our +lips. + +"Of a sudden we had found ourselves staggering and reeling. It was as if +the earth was slipping gently from under our feet. Then came a sickening +swaying of the earth that threw us flat upon our faces. We struggled in +the street. We could not get on our feet. + +"I looked in a dazed fashion around me. I saw for an instant the big +buildings in what looked like a crazy dance. Then it seemed as though my +head were split with the roar that crashed into my ears. Big buildings +were crumbling as one might crush a biscuit in one's hand. Great gray +clouds of dust shot up with flying timbers, and storms of masonry rained +into the street. Wild, high jangles of smashing glass cut a sharp note +into the frightful roaring. Ahead of me a great cornice crushed a man as +if he were a maggot--a laborer in overalls on his way to the Union Iron +Works, with a dinner pail on his arm. + +"Everywhere men were on all fours in the street, like crawling bugs. +Still the sickening, dreadful swaying of the earth continued. It seemed +a quarter of an hour before it stopped. As a matter of fact, it lasted +about three minutes. Footing grew firm again, but hardly were we on our +feet before we were sent reeling again by repeated shocks, but they were +milder. Clinging to something, one could stand. + +"The dust clouds were gone. It was quite dark, like twilight. But I saw +trolley tracks uprooted, twisted fantastically. I saw wide wounds in +the street. Water flooded out of one. A deadly odor of gas from a broken +main swept out of the other. Telegraph poles were rocked like matches. +A wild tangle of wires was in the street. Some of the wires wriggled and +shot blue sparks. + +"From the south of us, faint, but all too clear, came a horrible chorus +of human cries of agony. Down there in a ramshackle section of the city +the wretched houses had fallen in upon the sleeping families. Down there +throughout the day a fire burned the great part of whose fuel it is too +gruesome a thing to contemplate. + +"That was what came next--the fire. It shot up everywhere. The fierce +wave of destruction had carried a flaming torch with it--agony, death +and a flaming torch. It was just as if some fire demon was rushing from +place to place with such a torch." + + +WRECK AND RUIN. + + +The magnitude of the calamity became fully apparent after the sun had +risen and began to shine warmly and brightly from the east over the +ruined city. Old Sol, who had risen and looked down upon this city for +thousands of times, had never before seen such a spectacle as that of +this fateful morning. Where once rose noble buildings were now to be +seen cracked and tottering walls, fallen chimneys, here and there fallen +heaps of brick and mortar, and out of and above all the red light of +the mounting flames. From the middle of the city's greatest thoroughfare +ruin, only ruin, was to be seen on all sides. To the south, in hundreds +of blocks, hardly a building had escaped unscathed. The cracked walls of +the new Post Office showed the rending power of the earthquake. A part +of the splendid and costly City Hall collapsed, the roof falling to the +courtyard and the smaller towers tumbling down. Some of the wharves, +laden with goods of every sort, slid into the bay. With them went +thousands of tons of coal. On the harbor front the earth sank from six +to eight inches, and great cracks opened in the streets. + +San Francisco's famous Chinatown, the greatest settlement of the +Celestials on this continent, went down like a house of cards. When the +earthquake had passed this den of squalor and infamy was no more. The +Chinese theatres and joss-houses tumbled into ruins, rookery after +rookery collapsed, and hundreds of their inhabitants were buried alive. +Panic reigned supreme among the fugitives, who filled the streets in +frightened multitudes, dragging from the wreck whatever they could save +of their treasured possessions. Much the same was the case with the +Japanese quarter, which fire quickly invaded, the people fleeing in +terror, carrying on their backs what few of their household effects they +were able to rescue. + +As for the people of Chinatown, however, no one knows or will ever know +the extent of the dread fate that overcame them, for no one knows +the secrets of that dark abode of infamy and crime, whose inhabitants +burrowed underground like so many ants; and hid their secrets deep in +the earth. + + +THE RUIN OF CHINATOWN. + + +W. W. Overton, of Los Angeles, thus describes the Chinatown dens and the +revelations made by the earthquake and the flames: + +"Strange is the scene where San Francisco's Chinatown stood. No heap of +smoking ruins marks the site of the wooden warrens where the Orientals +dwelt in thousands. Only a cavern remains, pitted with deep holes and +lined with dark passageways, from whose depths come smoke wreaths. White +men never knew the depth of Chinatown's underground city. Many had gone +beneath the street level two and three stories, but now that the place +had been unmasked, men may see where its inner secrets lay. In places +one can see passages a hundred feet deep. + +"The fire swept this Mongolian quarter clean. It left no shred of the +painted wooden fabric. It ate down to the bare ground, and this lies +stark, for the breezes have taken away the light ashes. Joss houses +and mission schools, groceries and opium dens, gambling resorts and +theatres, all of them went. These buildings blazed up like tissue paper. + +"From this place I saw hundreds of crazed yellow men flee. In their arms +they bore opium pipes, money bags, silks and children. Beside them ran +the trousered women and some hobbled painfully. These were the men and +women of the surface. Far beneath the street levels in those cellars and +passageways were other lives. Women, who never saw the day from their +darkened prisons, and their blinking jailors were caught and eaten by +the flames." + +Devastation spread widely on all sides, ruining the homes of the rich as +well as of the poor, of Americans as well as of Europeans and Asiatics, +the marts of trade, the haunts of pleasure, the realms of science and +art, the resorts of thousands of the gay population of the Golden State +metropolis. To attempt to tell the whole story of destruction and ruin +would be to describe all for which San Francisco stood. Science +suffered in the loss of the San Francisco Academy of Sciences, which was +destroyed with its invaluable contents. This building, erected fifteen +years ago at a cost of $500,000, was a seven-story building with a rich +collection of objects of science. Much of the academy's contents can +never be replaced. It represented the work of many years. There was a +rare collection of Pacific Sea birds which was the most valuable of its +kind in the world. In fact, the entire collection of birds ranked very +high, was visited by ornithologists from every country, and was the +pride of the city. The academy was founded in 1850, James Lick, the same +man who endowed the Lick Observatory, giving it $1,000,000, so it was on +a prosperous footing. It will take many years of active labor to replace +the losses of an hour or two of the reign of fire in this institution, +while much that it held is gone beyond restoration. + + +LOSS TO ART AND SCIENCE. + + +Art suffered as severely as science, the valuable collections in private +and public buildings being nearly all destroyed. We have spoken of the +rare paintings burned in the Bohemian Club building. The collections on +Nob's Hill suffered as severely. When the mansions here, the Fairmount +Hotel and Mark Hopkins Institute were approached by the flames, many +attempts were made to remove some of the priceless works of art from the +buildings. A crowd of soldiers was sent to the Flood and the Huntington +mansions and the Hopkins Institute to rescue the paintings. From +the Huntington home and the Flood mansion canvases were cut from the +framework with knives. The collections in the three buildings, valued in +the hundreds of thousands, in great part were destroyed, few being saved +from the ravages of the fire. + +The destruction of the libraries, with their valuable collections of +books, was also a very serious loss to the city and its people. Of these +there were nine of some prominence, the Sutro Library containing many +rare books among its 200,000 volumes, while that of the Mechanics +Institute possessed property valued at $2,000,000. The Public Library +occupied a part of the City Hall, the new building proposed by the city, +with aid to the extent of $750,000 by Andrew Carnegie, being fortunately +still in embryo. + +In the burning of the banks the losses were limited to the buildings, +their money and other valuables being securely locked in fireproof +vaults. But these became so heated by the flames that it was necessary +to leave them to a gradual cooling for days, during which their +treasures were unavailable, and those with deposits, small or large, +were obliged to depend on the benevolence of the nation for food, such +wealth as was left to them being locked up beyond their reach. It +was the same with the United States Sub-Treasury, which was entirely +destroyed by fire, its vaults, which contained all the cash on hand, +being alone preserved. Guards were put over these to protect their +contents against possible loss by theft. + +One serious effect of the conflagration was the general disorganization +of the telegraph system. News items were sent over the wires, but +private messages inquiring about missing friends for days failed to +reach the parties concerned or to bring any return. + +That the world received news of the San Francisco disaster during the +dread day after the earthquake is due in part to the courage of the +telegraph operators, who stuck to their posts and, continued to send +news and other messages in spite of great personal danger. + +The operators and officials of the Postal Telegraph Company remained in +the main office of the company, at the corner of Market and Montgomery +Streets, opposite the Palace Hotel, until they were ordered out of +it because of the danger of the dynamite explosions in the immediate +vicinity. The men proceeded to Oakland, across the bay, and took +possession of the office there. That night the company operated seven +wires from Oakland, all messages from the city being taken across the +bay in boats. As the days passed on the service gradually improved, but +a week or more passed away before the general service of the company +became satisfactory. + + +THE DANGER FROM THIRST. + + +Such news as came from the city was full of tales of horror. For a +number of days one of the chief sources of trouble was from thirst. +Although the earthquake shocks had broken water mains in probably +hundreds of places, strange to say, no water, or very little at least, +appeared on the surface of the ground. Public fountains on Market +Street gave out no relief to the thirsty thousands. At Powell and Market +Streets a small stream of water spurted up through the cobblestones and +formed a muddy pool, at which the thirsty were glad enough to drink. The +soldiers, disregarding the order not to let people move about, permitted +bucket brigades to go forth and bring back water to relieve the women +and the crying children. To reach the water it was necessary sometimes +to go a mile to one of the four reservoirs which top the hills. + +Here is a story told by one observer of incidents in the city during the +fire: + +"I talked to one man who slept in Alta Plaza. The fire was going on +in the district south of them, and at intervals all night exhausted +fire-fighters made their way to the plaza and dropped, with the breath +out of them, among the huddled people and the bundles of household +goods. The soldiers, who are administering affairs with all the justice +of judges and all the devotion of heroes, kept three or four buckets +of water, even from the women, for these men, who kept coming all night +long. There was a little food, also kept by the soldiers for these +emergencies, and the sergeant had in his charge one precious bottle +of whisky, from which he doled out drinks to those who were utterly +exhausted. + +"Over in a corner of the plaza a band of men and women were praying, and +one fanatic, driven crazy by horror, was crying out at the top of his +voice: + +"'The Lord sent it, the Lord!' + +"His hysterical crying got in the nerves of the soldiers and bade fair +to start a panic among the women and children, so the sergeant went over +and stopped it by force. All night they huddled together in this hell, +with the fire making it bright as day on all sides; and in the morning +the soldiers, using their sense again, commandeered a supply of bread +from a bakery, sent out another water squad, and fed the refugees with a +semblance of breakfast. + +"There was one woman in the crowd who had been separated from her +husband in a rush of the smoke and did not know whether he was living. +The women attended to her all night and in the morning the soldiers +passed her through the lines in her search. A few Chinese made their +way into the crowd. They were trembling, pitifully scared and willing +to stop wherever the soldiers placed them. This is only a glimpse of the +horrible night in the parks and open places. + +"We learn here that many of the well-to-do people in the upper residence +district have gathered in the strangers from the highways and byways and +given them shelter and comfort for the night in their living rooms and +drawing rooms. Shelter seems to have come more easily than food. Not an +ounce of supplies, of course, has come in for two days, and most of the +permanent stores are in the hands of the soldiers, who dole them out to +all comers alike. But the hungry cannot always find the military stores +and the news has not gotten about, since there are no newspapers and no +regular means of communication. + +"An Italian tells me that he was taken in by a family living in a +three-story house in the fashionable Pacific Avenue. There were twenty +refugees who passed the night in the drawing room of that house, whose +mistress took down hangings to make them comfortable. In the morning all +the food that was left over in that home of wealth was enough flour and +baking powder to shake together a breakfast for the refugees. They were +hardly ready to leave that house when the fire came their way, and +the people of the house, together with the refugees, who included two +Chinese, made their way to the open ground of the Presidio. With them +streamed a procession of folks carrying valuables in bundles. + +"There came out, too, tales of both heroism and crime. The firemen had +been at it for thirty-six hours under such conditions as firemen never +before faced, and they do little more than give directions, while the +volunteers, thousands of young Western men who have remained to see it +through, do the work. The troops have all that they can do to handle +the crowds in the streets and prevent panics. The work of dynamiting, +tearing down and rescuing is in the hands of the volunteers. + +"This morning an eddy of flame from the edge of the burning wholesale +district ran up the slope of Russian Hill, the highest eminence in the +city. All along the edge of that hill and up the slopes are little frame +houses which hold Italians and Mexicans. A corps of volunteer aides ran +along the edge of the fire, warning people out of the houses. But the +flames ran too fast and three women were caught in the upper story of an +old frame house. A young man tore a rail from a fence, managed to climb +it, and reached the window. He bundled one woman out and slid her down +the rail; then the roof caught fire. He seized another woman and managed +to drop her on the rail, down which she slid without hurting herself a +great deal. But the roof fell while he was struggling with another woman +and they fell together into the flames. There must have been hundreds +of such heroisms and dozens of such catastrophes. We are so drunken +and dulled by horror that we take such stories calmly now. We are +saturated." + + +HOW LOOTING WAS HINDERED. + + +One thing to be strictly guarded against in those days of destruction +was the outbreak of lawlessness. A city as large as San Francisco is +sure to hold a large number of the brigands of civilization, a horde +who need to be kept under strict discipline at all times, and especially +when calamity lets down for the time being the bars of the law, at +which time many of the usually law-abiding would join their ranks if any +license were allowed. The authorities made haste to guard against +this and certain other dangers, Mayor Schmitz issuing on Wednesday the +following proclamation: + +"The Federal troops, the members of the regular police force and special +police officers have been authorized to kill any and all persons engaged +in looting or in the commission of any other crime. + +"I have directed all the gas and electric lighting companies not to turn +on gas or electricity until I order them to do so. You may, therefore, +expect the city to remain in darkness for an indefinite time. + +"I request all citizens to remain at home from darkness until daylight +every night until order is restored. + +"I warn all citizens of the danger of fire from damaged or destroyed +chimneys, broken or leaking gas pipes or fixtures or any like causes." + +He also ordered that no lights should be used in the houses and no fires +built in the houses until the chimneys had been inspected and repaired. + +There was need of vigilance in this direction, for the vandals were +quickly at work. Routed out from their dens along the wharves, the +rats of the waterfront, the drifters on the back eddy of civilization, +crawled out intent on plunder. Early in the day a policeman caught one +of these men creeping through the window of a small bank on Montgomery +Street and shot him dead. But the police were kept too busy at other +necessary duties to devote much time to these wretches, and for a time +many of them plundered at will, though some of them met with quick and +sure retribution. + + +STORIES BY SIGHTSEERS. + + +One onlooker says: "Were it not for the fact that the soldiers in charge +of the city do not hesitate in shooting down the ghouls the lawless +element would predominate. Not alone do the soldiers execute the law. On +Wednesday afternoon, in front of the Palace Hotel, a crowd of workers in +the mines discovered a miscreant in the act of robbing a corpse of its +jewels. Without delay he was seized, a rope obtained, and he was strung +up to a beam that was left standing in the ruined entrance of the hotel. +No sooner had he been hoisted up and a hitch taken in the rope than +one of his fellow-criminals was captured. Stopping only to obtain a few +yards of hemp, a knot was quickly tied, and the wretch was soon adorning +the hotel entrance by the side of the other dastard. + +"These are the only two instances I saw, but I heard of many that were +seen by others. The soldiers do all they can, and while the unspeakable +crime of robbing the dead is undoubtedly being practiced, it would be +many times as prevalent were it not for the constant vigilance on all +sides, as well as the summary justice." + +Another observer tells of an instance of this summary justice that came +under his eyes: + +"At the corner of Market and Third Streets on Wednesday I saw a man +attempting to cut the fingers from the hand of a dead woman in order +to secure the rings which adorned the stiffened fingers. Three soldiers +witnessed the deed at the same time and ordered the man to throw up his +hands. Instead of obeying the command he drew a revolver from his pocket +and began to fire at his pursuer without warning. The three soldiers, +reinforced by half a dozen uniformed patrolmen, raised their rifles to +their shoulders and fired. With the first shots the man fell, and when +the soldiers went to the body to dump it into an alley nine bullets were +found to have entered it." + +The warning this severity gave was accentuated in one instance in a most +effective manner. On a pile of bricks, stones and rubbish was thrown the +body of a man shot through the heart, and on his chest was pinned this +placard: + +"Take warning!" + +Those of the ghouls who saw this were likely to desist from their +detestable work, unless they valued spoils more than life. + +Willis Ames, a Salt Lake City man, tells of the kind of justice done to +thieves, as it came under his observation: + +"I saw man after man shot down by the troops. Most of these were ghouls. +One man made the trooper believe that one of the dead bodies lying on a +pile of rocks was his mother, and he was permitted to go up to the body. +Apparently overcome by grief, he threw himself across the corpse. In +another instant the soldiers discovered that he was chewing the diamond +earrings from the ears of the dead woman. 'Here is where you get what is +coming to you,' said one of the soldiers, and with that he put a +bullet through the ghoul. The diamonds were found in the man's mouth +afterward." + +Others were shot to save them from the horror of being burned alive. Max +Fast, a garment worker, tells of such an instance. He says: + +"When the fire caught the Windsor Hotel at Fifth and Market Streets +there were three men on the roof, and it was impossible to get them +down. Rather than see the crazed men fall in with the roof and be +roasted alive the military officer directed his men to shoot them, which +they did in the presence of 5,000 people." + +He further states: "At Jefferson Square I saw a fatal clash between the +military and the police. A policeman ordered a soldier to take up a dead +body to put it in the wagon, and the soldier ordered the policeman to do +it. Words followed, and the soldier shot the policeman dead." + +Among the many stories of this character on record is that of a +concerted effort to break into and rob the Mint, which led to the death +of fourteen men, who were shot down by the guard in charge. They +had disregarded the command of the officer in charge to desist. They +disobeyed, and the death of nearly the whole of them followed. + + +DEATH FOR SLIGHT OFFENSE. + + +As may well be imagined, the privilege given to fire at will was very +likely to lead to examples of unjustifiable haste in the use of the +rifle. Such haste is not charged against the United States troops, but +the militia and volunteer guards showed less judgment in the use of +their weapons. Thus we are told that one man was shot for the minor +offense of washing his hands in drinking water which had been brought +with great trouble for the thirsty people gathered in Columbia Park. It +is also said that a bank clerk, searching the ruins of his bank under +orders, was killed by a soldier who thought he was looting. More than +one seems to have been shot as looters for entering their own homes. + +Among the reports there is one that two men were shot through the +windows of their houses because they disobeyed the general orders and +lit candles, and one woman because she lighted a fire in her cook +stove. Yet, if such unwarranted acts existed, there were others better +deserved. It is said that three men were lined up and shot before ten +thousand people. One was caught taking the rings from a woman who had +fainted, another had stolen a piece of bread from a hungry child, and +the third, little more than a boy, was found in the act of robbing +tents. One thief who escaped the bullet richly deserved it. He came +upon a Miss Logan when lying unconscious on the floor of the St. Francis +Hotel after the earthquake, and, rather than take the time to wrench +some valuable rings from her hand, cut off the finger bearing them, and +left her to the horrors of the coming fire. + +The climax in the too free use of the rifle came on the 23d, when Major +H. C. Tilden, a prominent member of the General Relief Committee, was +shot and killed in his automobile by members of the citizens' patrol. +Two others in the car were struck by bullets. The automobile had been +used as an ambulance and the Red Cross flag was displayed on it. The +excuse of the shooters was that they did not see the flag and that the +car did not stop when challenged. This act led to an order forbidding +the carrying of firearms by the citizens' committees and to stricter +regulation of the soldiers in the use of their weapons. + +Later on looting took a new form different from that at first shown and +was practiced by a different class of people. These were the sightseers, +many of them people of prominence, who entered upon a crusade of relic +hunting in Chinatown, gathering and carrying off from the ashes of this +quarter valuable pieces of chinaware, bronze ornaments, etc. It became +necessary to put a stop to this, and on April 30th four militiamen were +arrested while digging in the ruins of the Chinese bazaars, and others +were frightened away by shots fired over their heads. A strong military +line was then drawn around the district, and this last resource of the +looter came to an end. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +The Panic Flight of a Homeless Host. + + +The scene that was visible in the streets of San Francisco on that dread +Wednesday morning was one to make the strongest shudder with horror. +Those three minutes of devastating earth tremors were moments never to +be forgotten. In such a time it is the human instinct to get into the +open air, and the people stumbled from their heaving and quivering +houses to find even the solid earth was swaying and rising and falling, +so that here and there great rents opened in the streets. To the +panic-stricken people the minutes that followed seemed years of terror. +Doubtless some among them died of sheer fright and more went mad with +terror. There was a roar in the air like a burst of thunder, and from +all directions came the crash of falling walls. They would run forward, +then stop, as another shock seemed to take the earth from under their +feet, and many of them flung themselves face downward on the ground in +an agony of fear. + +Two or three minutes seemed to pass before the fugitives found their +voices. Then the screams of women and the wild cries of men rent the +air, and with one impulse the terror-stricken host fled toward the +parks, to get themselves as far as possible from the tottering and +falling walls. These speedily became packed with people, most of them +in the night clothes in which they had leaped or been flung from their +beds, screaming and moaning at the little shocks that at intervals +followed the great one. The dawn was just breaking. The gas and electric +mains were gone and the street lamps were all out. The sky was growing +white in the east, but before the sun could fling his early rays from +the horizon there came another light, a lurid and threatening one, that +of the flames that had begun to rise in the warehouse district. + +The braver men and those without families to watch over set out for this +endangered region, half dressed as they were. In the early morning light +they could see the business district below them, many of the buildings +in ruins and the flames showing redly in five or six places. Through the +streets came the fire engines, called from the outlying districts by a +general alarm. The firemen were not aware as yet that no water was to be +had. + + +THE PANIC IN THE SLUMS. + + +On Portsmouth Square the panic was indescribable. This old tree plaza, +about which the early city was built, is now in the centre of Chinatown, +of the Italian district and of the "Barbary Coast," the "Tenderloin" of +the Western metropolis. It is the chief slum district of the city. The +tremor here ran up the Chinatown hill and shook down part of the crazy +buildings on its southern edge. It brought ruin also to some of the +Italian tenements. Portsmouth Square became the refuge of the terrified +inhabitants. Out from their underground burrows like so many rats fled +the Chinese, trembling in terror into the square, and seeking by beating +gongs and other noise-making instruments to scare off the underground +demons. Into the square from the other side came the Italian refugees. +The panic became a madness, knives were drawn in the insanity of the +moment, and two Chinamen were taken to the morgue, stabbed to death +for no other reason than pure madness. Here on one side dwelt 20,000 +Chinese, and on the other thousands of Italians, Spaniards and Mexicans, +while close at hand lived the riff-raff of the "Barbary Coast." + +Seemingly the whole of these rushed for that one square of open ground, +the two streams meeting in the centre of the square and heaping up on +its edges. There they squabbled and fought in the madness of panic and +despair, as so many mad wolves might have fought when caught in the +red whirl of a prairie fire, until the soldiers broke in and at the +bayonet's point brought some semblance of order out of the confusion of +panic terror. + +This scene in Portsmouth Square but illustrated the madness of fear +everywhere prevailing. On every side thousands were fleeing from the +roaring furnace that minute by minute seemed to extend its boundaries. + + +THE FLIGHT FOR SAFETY. + + +In the awful scramble for safety the half-crazed survivors disregarded +everything but the thought of themselves and their property. In every +excavation and hole throughout the north beach householders buried +household effects, throwing them into ditches and covering the holes. +Attempts were made to mark the graves of the property so that it could +be recovered after the flames were appeased. + +The streets were filled with struggling people, some crying and +weeping and calling for missing loved ones. Crowding the sidewalks were +thousands of householders attempting to drag some of their effects to +places of safety. In some instances men with ropes were dragging trunks, +tandem style, while others had sewing machines strapped to the trunks. +Again, women were rushing for the hills, carrying on their arms only the +family cat or a bird cage. + +There were two ideas in the minds of the fugitives, and in many cases +these two only. One of these was to escape to the open ground of Golden +Gate Park and the Presidio reservation; the other was to reach the ferry +and make their way out of the seemingly doomed city. + +At the ferry building a crowd numbering thousands gathered, begging for +food and transportation across the bay. Hundreds had not even the ten +cents fare to Oakland. Most of the refugees at this point were Chinamen +and Italians, who had fled from their burned tenements with little or no +personal property. + +Residents of the hillsides in the central portion of the city seemingly +were safe from the inferno of flames that was consuming the business +section. They watched the towering mounds of flames, and speculated +as to the extent of the territory that was doomed. Suddenly there was +whispered alarm up and down the long line of watchers, and they hurried +away to drag clothing, cooking utensils and scant provisions through the +streets. From Grant Avenue the procession moved westward. Men and +women dragged trunks, packed huge bundles of blankets, boxes of +provisions--everything. Wagons could not be hired except by paying the +most extortionate rates. + +"Thank Heaven for the open space of the Presidio and for Golden Gate +Park!" was the unspoken thank-offering of many hearts. The great park, +with its thousand and more acres of area, extending from the thinly +populated part of the city across the sand dunes to the Pacific, seemed +in that awful hour a God-given place of refuge. Near it and extending to +the Golden Gate channel is the Presidio military reservation, containing +1,480 acres, and with only a few houses on its broad extent. Here also +was a place of safety, provided that the forests which form a part of +its area did not burn. + + +THE EXODUS FROM THE BURNING CITY. + + +To these open spaces, to the suburbs, in every available direction, +the fugitives streamed, in thousands, in tens of thousands, finally +in hundreds of thousands, safety from those towering flames, from +the tottering walls of their dwellings, from a possible return of the +earthquake, their one overmastering thought. There were many persons +with scanty clothing, women in underskirts and thin waists and men in +shirt sleeves. Many women carried children, while others wheeled +baby carriages. It was a strange and weird procession, that kept up +unceasingly all that dreadful day and through the night that followed, +as the all-conquering flames spread the area of terror. + +At intervals news came of what was doing behind the smoke cloud. The +area of the flames spread all night. People who had decided that their +houses were outside of the dangerous area and had decided to pass the +night, even after the terrible experience of the shake-up, under their +roofs, hourly gave up the idea and struggled to the parks. There they +lay in blankets, their choicest valuables by their sides, and the +soldiers kept watch and order. Many lay on the bare grass of the park, +with nothing between them and the chill night air. Fortunately, the +weather was clear and mild, but among those who lay under the open sky +were men and women who were delicately reared, accustomed all their +lives to luxurious surroundings, and these must have suffered severely +during that night of terror. + +The fire was going on in the district south of them, and at intervals +all night exhausted fire-fighters made their way to the plaza and +dropped, with the breath out of them, among the huddled people and the +bundles of household goods. The soldiers, who were administering affairs +with all the justice of judges and all the devotion of heroes, kept +three or four buckets of water, even from the women, for these men, who +continued to come all the night long. There was a little food, also +kept by the soldiers for these emergencies, and the sergeant had in his +charge one precious bottle of whisky, from which he doled out drinks to +those who were utterly exhausted. + +But there was no panic. The people were calm, stunned. They did not +seem to realize the extent of the calamity. They heard that the city +was being destroyed; they told each other in the most natural tone +that their residences were destroyed by the flames, but there was no +hysteria, no outcry, no criticism. + +The trip to the hills and to the water front was one of terrible +hardship. Famishing women and children and exhausted men were compelled +to walk seven miles around the north shore in order to avoid the flames +and reach the ferries. Many dropped to the street under the weight of +their loads, and willing fathers and husbands, their strength almost +gone, strove to pick up and urge them forward again. + +In the panic many mad things were done. Even soldiers were obliged in +many instances to prevent men and women, made insane from the misfortune +that had engulfed them, from rushing into doomed buildings in the hope +of saving valuables from the ruins. In nearly every instance such action +resulted in death to those who tried it. At Larkin and Sutter Streets, +two men and a woman broke from the police and rushed into a burning +apartment house, never to reappear. + +The rush to the parks and the dunes was followed in the days that +followed by as wild a rush to the ferries, due to the mad desire to +escape anywhere, in any way, from the burning city. + + +THE WILD RUSH TO THE FERRIES. + + +At the ferry station on Wednesday night there was much confusion. +Mingled in an inextricable mass were people of every race and class +on earth. A common misfortune and hunger obliterated all distinctions. +Chinese, lying on pallets of rags, slept near exhausted white women with +babies in their arms. Bedding, household furniture of every description, +pet animals and trinkets, luggage and packages of every sort packed +almost every foot of space near the ferry building. Men spread bedding +on the pavement and calmly slept the sleep of exhaustion, while all +around a bedlam of confusion reigned. + +Many of those who sought the ferry on that fatal Wednesday met a solid +wall of flames extending for squares in length and utterly impassable. +In their half insane eagerness to escape some of them would have rushed +into fatal danger but for the soldiers, who guarded the fire line +and forced them back. Only those reached the ferry who had come in +precedence of the flames, or who made a long detour to reach that avenue +of flight. When the news came to the camps of refugees that it was safe +to cross the burned area a procession began from the Golden Gate Park +across the city and down Market Street, the thoroughfare which had long +been the pride of the citizens, and a second from the Presidio, along +the curving shore line of the north bay, thence southward along the +water front. Throughout these routes, eight miles long, a continuous +flow of humanity dragged its weary way all day and far into the night +amidst hundreds of vehicles, from the clumsy garbage cart to the modern +automobile. Almost every person and every vehicle carried luggage. +Drivers of vehicles were disregardful of these exhausted, hungry +refugees and drove straight through the crowd. So dazed and deadened to +all feeling were some of them that they were bumped aside by carriage +wheels or bumped out of the way by persons. + + +SCENES OF HUMOR AND PATHOS. + + +As already stated, the scene had its humorous as well as its pathetic +side, and various amusing stories are told by those who were in a frame +of mind to notice ludicrous incidents in the horrors of the situation. +Two race track men met in the drive. + +"Hello, Bill; where are you living now?" asked one. + +"You see that tree over there--that big one?" said Bill. "Well, you +climb that. My room is on the third branch to the left," and they went +away laughing. + +Another observer tells these incidents of the flight: "I saw one big fat +man calmly walking up Market Street, carrying a huge bird cage, and the +cage was empty. He seemed to enjoy looking at the wrecked buildings. +Another man was leading a huge Newfoundland dog and carrying a kitten in +his arms. He kept talking to the kitten. On Fell Street I noticed an old +woman, half dressed, pushing a sewing machine up the hill. A drawer +fell out, and she stopped to gather the fallen spools. Poor little +seamstress, it was now her all." + +A more amusing instance of the spirit of saving is that told by another +narrator, who says that he saw a lone woman patiently pushing an upright +piano along the pavement a few inches at a time. Evidently in this case, +too, it was the poor soul's one great treasure on earth. + +He also tells of a guest berating the proprietor of a hotel, a few +minutes after the shock, because he had not obeyed orders to call him at +five o'clock. He vowed he would never stop at that house again, a vow he +might well keep, as the house is no more. + +In one room where two girls were dressing the floor gave way and one of +them disappeared. + +"Where are you, Mary?" screamed her companion. + +"Oh, I'm in the parlor," said Mary calmly, as she wriggled out of the +mass of plaster and mortar below. + +At the handsome residence of Rudolph Spreckels, the wealthy financier, +the lawn was riven from end to end in great gashes, while the ornamental +Italian rail leading to the imposing entrance was a battered heap. But +the family, with a philosophy notable for the occasion, calmly set up +housekeeping on the sidewalk, the women seated in armchairs taken from +the mansion and wrapped in rugs and coverlets, the silver breakfast +service was laid out on the stone coping and their morning meal spread +out on the sidewalk. This, scene was repeated at other houses of the +wealthy, the families too fearful of another shock to venture within +doors. + +Another story of much interest in this connection is told. On Friday +afternoon, two days and some hours after the scene just narrated, Mrs. +Rudolph Spreckels presented her husband with an heir on the lawn in +front of their mansion, while the family were awaiting the coming of the +dynamite squad to blow up their magnificent residence. An Irish woman +who had been called in to play the part of midwife at a birth elsewhere +on Saturday, made a pertinent comment after the wee one's eyes were +opened to the walls of its tent home. + +"God sends earthquakes and babies," she said, "but He might, in His +mercy, cut out sending them both together." + +There were many pathetic incidents. Families had been sadly separated +in the confusion of the flight. Husbands had lost their wives--wives +had lost their husbands, and anxious mothers sought some word of their +children--the stories were very much the same. One pretty looking woman +in an expensive tailor-made costume badly torn, had lost her little +girl. + +"I don't think anything has happened to her," said she, hopefully. "She +is almost eleven years old, and some one will be sure to take her in and +care for her; I only want to know where she is. That is all I care about +now." + +A well-known young lady of good social position, when asked where she +had spent the night, replied: "On a grave." + +"I thank God, I thank Uncle Sam and the people of this nation," said a +woman, clad in a red woolen wrapper, seated in front of a tent at the +Presidio nursing one child and feeding three others from a board propped +on two bricks. "We have lost our home and all we had, but we have never +been hungry nor without shelter." + +The spirit of '49 was vital in many of the refugees. One man wanted to +know whether the fire had reached his home. He was informed that there +was not a house standing in that section of the city. He shrugged his +shoulders and whistled. + +"There's lots of others in the same boat," as he turned away. + +"Going to build?" repeated one man, who had lost family and home inside +of two hours. "Of course, I am. They tell me that the money in the banks +is still all right, and I have some insurance. Fifteen years ago I began +with these," showing his hands, "and I guess I'm game to do it over +again. Build again, well I wonder." + +Among the many pathetic incidents of the disaster was that of a woman +who sat at the foot of Van Ness Avenue on the hot sands on the hillside +overlooking the bay east of Fort Mason, with four little children, +the youngest a girl of three, the eldest a boy of ten years. They were +destitute of water, food and money. + +The woman had fled, with her children, from a home in flames in the +Mission Street district, and tramped to the bay in the hope of sighting +the ship which she said was about due, of which her husband was the +captain. + +"He would know me anywhere," she said. And she would not move, although +a young fellow gallantly offered his tent, back on a vacant lot, in +which to shelter her children. + + +THE GOLDEN GATE CAMP. + + +In the Golden Gate Park there was the most woefully grotesque camp of +sufferers imaginable. There was no caste, no distinction of rich and +poor, social lines had been obliterated by the common misfortune, and +the late owners of property and wealth were glad to camp by the side of +the day laborer. As for shelter, there were a few army tents and some +others which afforded a fair degree of comfort, but nine out of ten are +the poorest suggestions of tents made out of bedclothes, rugs, raincoats +and in some cases of lace curtains. None of the tents or huts has a +floor, and it is impossible to see how a large number of women and +children can escape the most disastrous physical effects. + +The unspeakable chaos that prevailed was apparent in no way more than +in the system, or lack of system, of registration and location. At the +entrance to Golden Gate Park stands a billboard, twenty feet high and +a hundred feet long. Originally it bore the praises of somebody's beer. +Covering this billboard, to a height of ten or twelve feet, were slips +of paper, business cards, letter heads and other notices, addressed +to "Those interested," "Friends and relatives," or to some individual, +telling of the whereabouts of refugees. + +One notice read: "Mrs. Rogers will find her husband in Isidora Park, +Oakland. W. H. Rogers." Another style was this: "Sue, Harry and Will +Sollenberger all safe. Call at No. 250 Twenty-seventh Avenue." + +There were thousands of these dramatic notices on this billboard, and +one larger than the others read: "Death notices can be left here; get as +many as possible." + +Another method of finding friends and relatives was by printing notices +on vehicles. On the side curtains of a buggy being driven to Golden Gate +Park was the following sign: "I am looking for I. E. Hall." + +That searchers for lost ones might have the least trouble, all the +tents, here known as camps, were tagged with the names or numbers. For +instance, one tent of bed quilts carried this sign: "No. 40 Bush Street +camp." + +Most of the tents were merely named for the family name of the +occupants, the former streets number usually being given. But these tent +tags told a wonderful story of human nature. A small army tent bore the +name, "Camp Thankful," the one next to it was placarded "Camp Glory" and +a few feet farther on an Irishman had posted the sign "Camp Hell." + +The cooking was all done on a dozen bricks for a stove, with such +utensils as may usually be picked up in the ordinary residential alley. +But in all of the camps the badge of the eternal feminine was to be +found in the form of small pieces of broken mirrors, or hand mirrors +fastened to trees or tent walls, in some cases the polished bottom of a +tomato can serving the purposes of the feminine toilet. + +One woman, in whose improvised tent screeched a parrot, sat ministering +to the wounds of the other family pet, a badly singed cat. The number of +canaries, parrots, dogs and cats was one of the amusing features of the +disaster. + +Among the interesting and thrilling incidents of the disaster is that +connected with the telegraph service. For many hours virtually all the +news from San Francisco came over the wires of the Postal Telegraph +Company. The Postal has about fifteen wires running into San Francisco. +They go under the bay in cables from Oakland, and thence run underground +for several blocks down Market Street to the Postal building. About +forty operators are employed to handle the business, but evidently there +was only about one on duty when the earthquake began. + +What became of him nobody knows. But he seems to have sent the first +word of the disaster. It came over the Postal wires about nine o'clock, +just when the day's business had started in the East. It will long be +preserved in the records of the company. This was the dispatch: + +"There was an earthquake hit us at 5.13 this morning, wrecking several +buildings and wrecking our offices. They are carting dead from the +fallen buildings. Fire all over town. There is no water and we lost our +power. I'm going to get out of office, as we have had a little shake +every few minutes, and it's me for the simple life." + +"R., San Francisco, 5.50 A. M." + +"Mr. R." evidently got out, for there was nothing doing for a brief +interval after that. The operator in the East pounded and pounded at his +key, but San Francisco was silent. The Postal people were wondering if +it was all the dream of some crazy operator or a calamity, when the wire +woke up again. It was the superintendent of the San Francisco force this +time. + +"We're on the job, and are going to try and stick," was the way the +first message came from him. + +This was what came over the wire a little later: + +"Terrific earthquake occurred here at 5.13 this morning. A number of +people were killed in the city. None of the Postal people were killed. +They are now carting the dead from the fallen buildings. There are many +fires, with no one to fight them. Postal building roof wrecked, but not +entire building." + +The fire got nearer and nearer to the Postal building. All of the water +mains had been destroyed around the building, the operators said, and +there was no hope if the fire came on. They also said that they could +hear the sound of dynamite blowing up buildings. All this time the +operators were sticking to their posts and sending and receiving all the +business the wires could stand. At 12.45 the wire began to click again +with a message for the little group of waiting officials. + +This message came in jerks: "Fire still coming up Market Street. It's +one block from the Post Office now; back of the Palace Hotel is a +furnace. I am afraid that the Grand Hotel and the Palace Hotel will get +it soon. The Southern Pacific offices on California Street are safe, +so far, but can't tell what will happen. California Street is on fire. +Almost everything east of Montgomery Street and north of Market Street +is on fire now." + +There was a pause, then: "We are beginning to pack up our instruments." + +"Instruments are all packed up, and we are ready to run," was another +message. It was evident that just one instrument had been left connected +with the world outside. In about ten minutes it began to click. Those +who knew the telegraphers' language caught the word "Good-bye," and then +the ticks stopped. + +At the end of an hour the instrument in the office began to click again. +It was from an electrician by the name of Swain. + +"I'm back in the building, but they are dynamiting the building next +door, and I've got to get out," was the way his message was translated. +Dynamite ended the story, and the Postal's domicile in San Francisco +ceased to exist. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Facing Famine and Praying for Relief. + + +Frightful was the emergency of the vast host of fugitives who fled +in terror from the blazing city of San Francisco to the open gates of +Golden Gate Park and the military reservation of the Presidio. Food was +wanting, scarcely any water was to be had, death by hunger and thirst +threatened more than a quarter million of souls thus driven without +warning from their comfortable and happy homes and left without food +or shelter. Provisions, shelter tents, means of relief of various kinds +were being hurried forward in all haste, but for several days the host +of fugitives had no beds but the bare ground, no shelter but the open +heavens, scarcely a crumb of bread to eat, scarcely a gill of water to +drink. Those first days that followed the disaster were days of horror +and dread. Rich and poor were mingled together, the delicately reared +with the rough sons of toil to whom privation was no new experience. + +Those who had food to sell sought to take advantage of the necessities +of the suffering by charging famine prices for their supplies, but the +soldiers put a quick stop to this. When Thursday morning broke, lines +of buyers formed before the stores whose supplies had not been +commandeered. In one of these, the first man was charged 75 cents for a +loaf of bread. The corporal in charge at that point brought his gun down +with a slam. + +"Bread is 10 cents a loaf in this shop," he said. + +It went. The soldier fixed the schedule of prices a little higher than +in ordinary times, and to make up for that he forced the storekeeper to +give free food to several hungry people in line who had no money to pay. +In several other places the soldiers used the same brand of horse sense. + +A man with a loaf of bread in his hand ran up to a policeman on +Washington Street. "Here," he said, "this man is trying to charge me a +dollar for this loaf of bread. Is that fair?" + +"Give it to me," said the policeman. He broke off one end of it and +stuck it in his mouth. "I am hungry myself," he said when he had his +mouth clear. "Take the rest of it. It's appropriated." + +As an example of the prices charged for food and service by the +unscrupulous, we may quote the experience of a Los Angeles millionaire +named John Singleton, who had been staying a day or two at the Palace +Hotel. On Wednesday he had to pay $25 for an express wagon to carry +himself, his wife and her sister to the Casino, near Golden Gate Park, +and on Thursday was charged a dollar apiece for eggs and a dollar for a +loaf of bread. Others tell of having to pay $50 for a ride to the ferry. + +One of the refugees on the shores of Lake Herced Thursday morning spied +a flock of ducks and swans which the city maintained there for the +decoration of the lake. He plunged into the lake, swam out to them and +captured a fat drake. Other men and boys saw the point and followed. The +municipal ducks were all cooking in five minutes. + +The soldiers were prompt to take charge of the famine situation, acting +on their own responsibility in clearing out the supplies of the little +grocery stores left standing and distributing them among the people in +need. The principal food of those who remained in the city was composed +of canned goods and crackers. The refugees who succeeded in getting out +of San Francisco were met as soon as they entered the neighboring towns +by representatives of bakers who had made large supplies of bread, and +who immediately dealt them out to the hungry people. + + +THE FOOD QUESTION URGENT. + + +But the needs of the three hundred thousand homeless and hungry people +in the city could not be met in this way, and immediate supplies in +large quantities were necessary to prevent a reign of famine from +succeeding the ravages of the fire. Danger from thirst was still more +insistent than that from hunger. There was some food to be had, bakeries +were quickly built within the military reservation there, and General +Funston announced that rations would soon reach the city and the people +would be supplied from the Presidio. But there was scarcely any water to +relieve the thirst of the suffering. Water became the incessant cry +of firemen and people alike, the one wanting it to fight the fire, the +other to drink, but even for the latter the supply was very scant. +There was water in plenty in the reservoirs, but they were distant and +difficult to reach, and all night of the day succeeding the earth shock +wagons mounted with barrels and guarded by soldiers drove through the +park doling out water. There was a steady crush around these wagons, but +only one drink was allowed to a person. + +Toward midnight a black, staggering body of men began to weave through +the entrance. They were volunteer fire-fighters, looking for a place +to throw themselves down and sleep. These men dropped out all along the +line, and were rolled out of the driveways by the troops. There was much +splendid unselfishness here. Women gave up their blankets and sat up or +walked about all night to cover the exhausted men who had fought fire +until there was no more fight in them. + +The common destitution and suffering had, as we have said, wiped out all +social, financial and racial distinctions. The man who last Tuesday was +a prosperous merchant was obliged to occupy with his family a little +plot of ground that adjoined the open-air home of a laborer. The +white man of California forgot his antipathy to the Asiatic race, +and maintained friendly relations with his new Chinese and Japanese +neighbors. The society belle who Tuesday night was a butterfly of +fashion at the grand opera performance now assisted some factory girl +in the preparation of humble daily meals. Money had little value. The +family that had had foresight to lay in the largest stock of foodstuffs +on the first day of disaster was rated highest in the scale of wealth. + +A few of the families that could secure wagons were possessors of cook +stoves, but over 95 per cent. of the refugees did their cooking on +little campfires made of brick or stone. Battered kitchen utensils that +the week before would have been regarded as useless had become articles +of high value. In fact, man had come back to nature and all lines +of caste had been obliterated, while the very thought of luxury had +disappeared. It was, in the exigency of the moment, considered good +fortune to have a scant supply of the barest necessaries of life. + +As for clothing, it was in many cases of the scantiest, while numbers of +the people had brought comfortable clothing and bedding. Many others had +fled in their night garbs, and comparatively few of these had had the +self-possession to return and don their daytime clothes. As a result +there had been much improvisation of garments suitable for life in the +open air, and as the days went on many of the women arrayed themselves +in home-made bloomer costumes, a sensible innovation under the +circumstances and in view of the active outdoor work they were obliged +to perform. + +The grave question to be faced at this early stage was: How soon would +an adequate supply of food arrive from outside points to avert famine? +Little remained in San Francisco beyond the area swept by the fire, and +the available supply could not last more than a few days. Fresh meat +disappeared early on Wednesday and only canned foods and breadstuffs +were left. All the foodstuffs coming in on the cars were at once seized +by order of the Mayor and added to the scanty supply, the names of the +consignees being taken that this material might eventually be paid for. +The bakers agreed to work their plants to their utmost capacity and to +send all their surplus output to the relief committee. By working night +and day thousands of loaves could be provided daily. A big bakery in +the saved district started its ovens and arranged to bake 50,000 loaves +before night. The provisions were taken charge of by a committee +and sent to the various depots from which the people were being fed. +Instructions were issued by Mayor Schmitz on Thursday to break open +every store containing provisions and to distribute them to the +thousands under police supervision. A policeman reported that two +grocery stores in the neighborhood were closed, although the clerks were +present. "Smash the stores open," ordered the Mayor, "and guard them." +In towns across the bay the master bakers have met and fixed the price +of bread at 5 cents the loaf, with the understanding that they will +refuse to sell to retailers who attempt to charge famine prices. The +committee of citizens in charge of the situation in the stricken city +proposed to use every effort to keep food down to the ordinary price and +check the efforts of speculators, who in one instance charged as much as +$3.50 for two loaves of bread and a can of sardines. Orders were issued +by the War Department to army officers to purchase at Los Angeles +immediately 200,000 rations and at Seattle 300,000 rations and hurry +them to San Francisco. The department was informed that there were +120,000 rations at the Presidio, that thousands of refugees were being +sheltered there and that the army was feeding them. One million rations +already had been started to San Francisco by the department. But in +view of the fact that there were 300,000 fugitives to be fed the supply +available was likely to be soon exhausted. + + +FOOD FOR THE HUNGRY. + + +Such was the state of affairs at the end of the second day of the great +disaster. But meanwhile the entire country had been aroused by the +tidings of the awful calamity, the sympathetic instinct of Americans +everywhere was awakened, and it was quickly made evident that the people +of the stricken city would not be allowed to suffer for the necessaries +of life. On all sides money was contributed in large sums, the United +States Government setting the example by an immediate appropriation of +$1,000,000, and in the briefest possible interval relief trains were +speeding toward the stricken city from all quarters, carrying supplies +of food, shelter tents and other necessaries of a kind that could not +await deliberate action. + +Shelter was needed almost as badly as food, for a host of the refugees +had nothing but their thin clothing to cover them, and, though the +weather at first was fine and mild, a storm might come at any time. +In fact, a rain did come, a severe one, early in the week after the +disaster, pouring nearly all night long on the shivering campers in +the parks, wetting them to the skin and soaking through the rudely +improvised shelters which many of the refugees had put up. A few days +afterward came a second shower, rendering still more evident the need of +haste in providing suitable shelter. + +All this was foreseen by those in charge, and the most strenuous efforts +were made to provide the absolute necessities of life. Huge quantities +of supplies were poured into the city. From all parts of California +trainloads of food were rushed there in all haste. A steamer from the +Orient laden with food reached the city in its hour of need; another was +dispatched in all haste from Tacoma bearing $25,000 worth of food and +medical supplies, ordered by Mayor Weaver, of Philadelphia, as a first +installment of that city's contribution. Money was telegraphed from +all quarters to the Governor of California, to be expended for food and +other supplies, and so prompt was the response to the insistent demand +that by Saturday all danger of famine was at an end; the people were +being fed. + + +WATER FOR THE THIRSTY. + + +The broken waterpipes were also repaired with all possible haste, the +Spring Valley Water Company putting about one thousand men at work upon +their shattered mains, and in a very brief time water began to flow +freely in many parts of the residence section and the great difficulty +of obtaining food and water was practically at an end. Never in +the history of the country has there been a more rapid and complete +demonstration of the resourcefulness of Americans than in the way this +frightful disaster was met. + +Food, water and shelter were not the only urgent needs. At first there +was absolutely no sanitary provision, and the danger of an epidemic +was great. This was a peril which the Board of Health addressed itself +vigorously to meet, and steps for improving the sanitary conditions were +hastily taken. Quick provision for sheltering the unfortunates was also +made. Eight temporary structures, 150 feet in length by 28 feet wide +and 13 feet high, were erected in Golden Gate Park, and in these +sheds thousands found reasonably comfortable quarters. This was but a +beginning. More of these buildings were rapidly erected, and by their +aid the question of shelter was in part solved. The buildings were +divided into compartments large enough to house a family, each +compartment having an entrance from the outside. This work was done +under the control of the engineering department of the United States +army, which had taken steps to obtain a full supply of lumber and had +put 135 carpenters to work. Those of the refugees who were without tents +were the first to be provided for in these temporary buildings. + + +THE CAMPS IN THE PARKS. + + +To those who made an inspection of the situation a few days after +the earthquake, the hills and beaches of San Francisco looked like an +immense tented city. For miles through the park and along the beaches +from Ingleside to the sea wall at North Beach the homeless were camped +in tents--makeshifts rigged up from a few sticks of wood and a blanket +or sheet. Some few of the more fortunate secured vehicles on which they +loaded regulation tents and were, therefore, more comfortably housed +than the great majority. Golden Gate Park and the Panhandle looked like +one vast campaign ground. It is said that fully 100,000 persons, rich +and poor alike, sought refuge in Golden Gate Park alone, and 200,000 +more homeless ones located at the other places of refuge. + +At the Presidio military reservation, where probably 50,000 persons +were camped, affairs were conducted with military precision. Water was +plentiful and rations were dealt out all day long. The refugees stood +patiently in line and there was not a murmur. This characteristic was +observable all over the city. The people were brave and patient, and the +wonderful order preserved by them proved of great assistance. In Golden +Gate Park a huge supply station had been established and provisions were +dealt out. + +Six hundred men from the Ocean Shore Railway arrived on Saturday night +with wagons and implements to work on the sewer system. Inspectors were +kept going from house to house, examining chimneys and issuing permits +to build fires. In fact, activity manifested itself in all quarters in +the attempt to bring order out of confusion, and in an astonishingly +short time the tented city was converted from a scene of wretched +disorder into one of order and system. + +At Jefferson Park were camped thousands of people of every class in +life. On the western edge of this park is the old Scott house, where +Mrs. McKinley lay sick for two weeks in 1901. Three times a day the +people all gathered in line before the provision wagons for their little +handouts. "Yesterday," says an observer, "I saw, in order before the +wagons, a Lascar sailor in his turban, about as low a Chinatown bum as I +ever set eyes on, a woman of refined appearance, a barefooted child, two +Chinamen, and a pretty girl. They were squeezed up together by the line, +which extended for a quarter of a mile. It is civilization in the bare +bones. + +"The great and rich are on a level with the poor in the struggle for +bare existence, and over them all is the perfect, unbroken discipline +of the soldiery. They came into the city and took charge on an hour's +notice, they saved the city from itself in the three days of hell, and +but for them the city, even with enough provisions to feed them in the +stores and warehouses, must have gone hungry for lack of distributive +organization." + + +COMEDY AND PATHOS IN THE BREAD LINE. + + +At one of the parks on Tuesday morning a handsomely dressed woman +with two children at her skirts stood in a line of many hundreds where +supplies were being given out. She took some uncooked bacon, and as she +reached for it jewels sparkled on her fingers. One of the tots took a +can of condensed milk, the other a bag of cakes. + +"I have money," she said, "'if I could get it and use it. I have +property, if I could realize on it. I have friends, if I could get to +them. Meantime I am going to cook this piece of bacon on bricks and be +happy." + +She was only one of thousands like her. + +In a walk through the city this note of cheerfulness of the people in +the face of an almost incredible week of horror was to a correspondent +the mitigating element to the awfulness of disaster. + +In the streets of the residential district in the western addition, +which the fire did not reach, women of the houses were cooking meals on +the pavement. In most cases they had moved out the family ranges, +and were preparing the food which they had secured from the Relief +Committee. + +Out on Broderick street, near the Panhandle, a piano sounded. It was +nigh ten o'clock and the stars were shining after the rain. Fires +gleamed up and down through the shrubbery and the refugees sat huddled +together about the flames, with their blankets about their heads, +Apache-like, in an effort to dry out after the wetting of the afternoon. +The piano, dripping with moisture, stood on the curb, near the front of +a cottage which had been wrecked by the earthquake. + +A youth with a shock of red hair sat on a cracker box and pecked at the +ivories. "Home Ain't Nothing Like This" was thrummed from the rusting +wires with true vaudeville dash and syncopation. "Bill Bailey," "Good +Old Summer Time," "Dixie" and "In Toyland" followed. Three young men +with handkerchiefs wrapped about their throats in lieu of collars stood +near the pianist and with him lifted up their voices in melody. The +harmony was execrable, the time without excuse, but the songs ran +through the trees of the Panhandle, and the crows, forgetting their +misery for a time, joined the strange chorus. + +The people had their tales of comedy, one being that on the morning of +the fire a richly dressed woman who lived in one of the aristocratic +Sutter Street apartments came hurrying down the street, faultlessly +gowned as to silks and sables, save that one dainty foot was shod with +a high-heeled French slipper and the other was incased in a laborer's +brogan. They say that as she walked she careened like a bark-rigged ship +before a typhoon. + +An hour spent behind the counter of the food supply depot in the park +tennis court yielded rich reward to the seeker after the outlandish. The +tennis court was piled high with the plunder of several grocery stores +and the cargoes of many relief cars. A square cut in the wire screen +permitted of the insertion of a counter, behind which stood members +of the militia acting as food dispensers. Before the improvised window +passed the line of refugees, a line which stretched back fully 300 yards +to Speedway track. + +"I want a can of condensed cream, so I can feed my baby and my dog," +said a large, florid-faced woman in a gaudy kimono, "and I don't care +for crackers, but you can throw in some potted chicken if you have it." + +"What's in that bottle over there?" queried the next applicant. "Tomato +ketchup? Well, of all the luck! Say, young man, just give me three." + +A little gray-haired woman in an India shawl peered timorously through +the window. "Just a little bit of anything you may have handy, please," +she whispered, and she cast a careful eye about to see of any of her +neighbors had recognized her standing there in the "bread line." + +"Yesterday, at the Western Union office," says one writer, "I saw a +woman drive up in a large motor car and beg that the telegram on which a +boy had asked a delivery fee of twenty-five cents be handed to her. She +said she had not a penny and did not know when she would have any money, +but that as soon as she had any she would pay for the message. It +was given to her, and the manager told me that there were hundreds of +similar cases." + +Many weddings resulted from the disaster. Women driven out of their +homes and left destitute, appealed to the men to whom they were engaged, +and immediate marriages took place. After the first day of the disaster +an increase in the marriage licenses issued was noticed by County Clerk +Cook. This increase grew until seven marriage licenses were issued in an +hour. + +"I don't live anywhere," was the answer given in many cases when the +applicant for a license was asked the locality of his residence. "I used +to live in San Francisco." + +Births seem to have been about as common as marriages, in one night +five children being born in Golden Gate Park. In Buena Vista Park eight +births were recorded and others elsewhere, the population being thus +increased at a rate hardly in accordance with the exigencies of the +situation. + + +THE EXODUS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. + + +We have spoken only of the camps of refugees within the municipal +limits of San Francisco. But in addition to these was the multitude of +fugitives who made all haste to escape from that city. This was with the +full consent of the authorities, who felt that every one gone lessened +the immediate weight upon themselves, and who issued a strict edict that +those who went must stay, that there could be no return until a counter +edict should be made public. + +From the start this was one of the features of the situation. Down +Market Street, once San Francisco's pride, now leading through piles of +tottering walls, piles of still hot bricks and twisted iron and heaps +of smouldering debris, poured a huge stream of pedestrians. Men bending +under the weight of great bundles pushed baby carriages loaded with +bric-a-brac and children. Women toiled along with their arms full, but +a large proportion were able to ride, for the relief corps had been +thoroughly organized and wagons were being pressed into service from all +sides. + +In constant procession they moved toward the ferry, whence the Southern +Pacific was transporting them with baggage free wherever they wished to +go. Automobiles meanwhile shot in all directions, carrying the Red Cross +flag and usually with a soldier carrying a rifle in the front seat. They +had the right of way everywhere, carrying messages and transporting the +ill to temporary hospitals and bearing succor to those in distress. + +Oakland, the nearest place of resort, on the bay shore opposite San +Francisco, soon became a great city of refuge, fugitives gathering there +until 50,000 or more were sheltered within its charitable limits. Having +suffered very slightly from the earthquake that had wrecked the great +city across the bay, it was in condition to offer shelter to the +unfortunate. All day Wednesday and Thursday a stream of humanity poured +from the ferries, every one carrying personal baggage and articles saved +from the conflagration. Hundreds of Chinese men, women and children, all +carrying baggage to the limit of their strength, made their way into the +limited Chinatown of Oakland. + +Multitudes of persons besieged the telegraph offices, and the crush +became so great that soldiers were stationed at the doors to keep them +in line and allow as many as possible to find standing room at the +counters. Messages were stacked yards high in the offices waiting to +be sent throughout the world. Every boat from San Francisco brought +hundreds of refugees, carrying luggage and bedding in large quantities. +Many women were bareheaded and all showed fatigue as the result of +sleeplessness and exposure to the chill air. Hundreds of these persons +lined the streets of Oakland, waiting for some one to provide them with +shelter, for which the utmost possible provision was quickly made. No +one was allowed to go hungry in Oakland and few lacked shelter. At the +Oakland First Presbyterian Church 1,800 were fed and 1,000 people were +provided with sleeping accommodations. Pews were turned into beds. Cots +stood in the aisles, in the gallery and in the Sunday school room. Every +available inch of space was occupied by some substitute for a bed. + +As the days wore on the number of refugees somewhat decreased. Although +they still came in large numbers, many left on every train for different +points. Requests for free transportation were investigated as closely +as possible and all the deserving were sent away. Women and children and +married men who wished to join their families in different parts of the +State were given preference. The transportation bureau was on a street +corner, where a man stood on a box and called the names of those +entitled to passes. + +Along the principal streets of Oakland there was a picturesque +pilgrimage of former householders, who dragged or carried the meagre +effects they had been able to save. The refugees who could not be cared +for in Oakland made an exodus to Berkeley and other surrounding cities, +where relief committees were actively at work. Utter despair was +pictured on many faces, which showed the effects of sleepless days and +nights, and the want of proper food. + +Oakland was only one of the outside camps of refuge. At Berkeley +over 6,000 refugees sought quarters, the big gymnasium of the State +University being turned into a lodging house, while hundreds were +provided with blankets to sleep in the open air under the University +oaks. The students and professors of the University did all they could +for their relief, and the Citizens' Relief Committee supplied them with +food. + +The same benevolent sympathy was manifested at all the places near the +ruined city which had escaped disaster, this aid materially reducing +that needed within San Francisco itself. + + +WORSHIP IN THE OPEN AIR. + + +Sunday dawned in San Francisco; Sunday in the camp of the refugees. On a +green knoll in Golden Gate Park, between the conservatory and the tennis +courts, a white-haired minister of the Gospel gathered his flock. It was +the Sabbath day and in the turmoil and confusion the minister did not +forget his duty. Two upright stakes and a cross-piece gave him a rude +pulpit, and beside him stood a young man with a battered brass cornet. +Far over the park stole a melody that drew hundreds of men and women +from their tents. Of all denominations and all creeds, they gathered on +that green knoll, and the men uncovered while the solemn voice repeated +the words of a grand old hymn, known wherever men and women meet to +worship the Lord: + + +"Other refuge have I none, hangs my helpless soul on Thee; Leave, oh, +leave me not alone, still support and comfort me!" + + +A moment before there had been shouting and confusion in the +driveway where some red-striped artillerymen were herding a squad of +gesticulating Chinamen as men herd sheep. The shouting died away as the +minister's voice rose and fell and out of the stillness came the sobs of +women. One little woman in blue was making no sound, but the tears were +streaming down her cheeks. Her husband, a sturdy young fellow in his +shirt sleeves, put his arm about her shoulders and tried to comfort her +as the reading went on. + + +"All my trust on Thee is stayed; all my help from Thee I bring; Cover my +defenseless head with the shadow of Thy wing." + + +Then the cornet took up the air again and those helpless persons +followed it in quivering tones, the white-haired man of God leading them +with closed eyes. When the last verse was over, the minister raised his +hands. + +"Let us pray," said he, and his congregation sank down in the grass +before him. It was a simple prayer, such a prayer as might be offered by +a man without a home or a shelter over his head--and nothing left to him +but an unshaken faith in his Creator. + +"Oh, Lord, Thy ways are past finding out, but we still have faith in +Thee. We know not why Thou hast visited these people and left them +homeless. Thou knowest the reason of this desolation and of our utter +helplessness. We call on Thee for help in the hour of our great need. +Bless the people of this city, the sorrowing ones, the bereaved, gather +them under Thy mighty wing and soothe aching hearts this day." + +The women were crying again, and one big man dug his knuckles into his +eyes without shame. The man who could have listened to such a prayer +unmoved was not in Golden Gate Park that day. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +The Frightful Loss of Life and Wealth. + + +While multitudes escaped from toppling buildings and crashing walls in +the dread disaster of that fatal Wednesday morning of April 18th in San +Francisco, hundreds of the less fortunate met their death in the ruins, +and horrifying scenes were witnessed by the survivors. Many of those who +escaped had tales of terror to tell. Mr. J. P. Anthony, as he fled from +the Ramona Hotel, saw a score or more of people crushed to death, and +as he walked the streets at a later hour saw bodies of the dead being +carried in garbage wagons and all kinds of vehicles to the improvised +morgues, while hospitals and storerooms were already filled with the +injured. Mr. G. A. Raymond, of Tomales, Cal., gives evidence to the same +effect. As he rushed into the street, he says that the air was filled +with falling stones and people around him were crushed to death on all +sides. + +Others gave testimony to the same effect. Samuel Wolf, of Salt Lake +City, tells us that he saved one woman from death in the hotel. She was +rushing blindly toward an open window, from which she would have fallen +fifty feet to the stone pavement below. "On my way down Market Street," +he says, "the whole side of a building fell out and came so near me that +I was covered and blinded by the dust. Then I saw the first dead come +by. They were piled up in an automobile like carcasses in a butcher's +wagon, all bloody, with crushed skulls, broken limbs and bloody faces." + +These are frightful stories, exaggerated probably from the nervous +excitement of those terrible moments, as are also the following +statements, which form part of the early accounts of the disaster. Thus +we are told that "from a three-story lodging house at Fifth and Minna +Streets, which collapsed Wednesday morning, more than seventy-five +bodies were taken to-day. There are fifty other bodies in sight in the +ruins. This building was one of the first to take fire on Fifth Street. +At least 100 persons are said to have been killed in the Cosmopolitan, +on Fourth Street. More than 150 persons are reported dead in the +Brunswick Hotel, at Seventh and Mission Streets." + +Another statement is to the effect that "at Seventh and Howard Streets +a great lodging house took fire after the first shock, before the guests +had escaped. There were few exits and nearly all the lodgers perished. +Mrs. J. J. Munson, one of those in the building, leaped with her child +in her arms from the second floor to the pavement below and escaped +unhurt. She says she was the only one who escaped from the house. Such +horrors as this were repeated at many points. B. Baker was killed while +trying to get a body from the ruins. Other rescuers heard the pitiful +wail of a little child, but were unable to get near the point from which +the cry issued. Soon the onrushing fire ended the cry and the men turned +to other tasks." + + +ESTIMATES OF THE DEATH LIST. + + +The questionable point in those statements is that the numbers of dead +spoken of in these few instances exceed the whole number given in the +official records issued two weeks after the disaster. Yet they go to +illustrate the actual horrors of the case, and are of importance for +this reason. As regards the whole number killed, in fact, there is not, +and probably never will be, a full and accurate statement. While about +350 bodies had been recovered at the end of the second week, it was +impossible to estimate how many lay buried under the ruins, to be +discovered only as the work of excavation went on, and how many more +had been utterly consumed by the flames, leaving no trace of their +existence. The estimates of the probable loss of life ran up to 1,500 +and more, while the injured were very numerous. + +The shock of the earthquake, the pulse of deep horror to which it gave +rise, the first wild impulse to flee for life, gave way in the minds of +many to a feeling of intense sympathy as agonized cries came from those +pinned down to the ruins of buildings or felled by falling bricks or +stones, and as the sight of dead bodies incrimsoned with blood met the +eyes of the survivors in the streets. From wandering aimlessly about, +many of these went earnestly to work to rescue the wounded and recover +the bodies of the slain. In this merciful work the police and the +soldiers lent their aid, and soon there was a large corps of rescuers +actively engaged. + + +BURYING THE DEAD. + + +Soon numbers were taken, alive or dead, from the ruins, passing vehicles +were pressed into the service, and the labor of mercy went on rapidly, +several buildings being quickly converted into temporary hospitals, +while the dead were conveyed to the Mechanics' Pavilion and other +available places. Portsmouth Square became for a time a public morgue. +Between twenty and thirty corpses were laid side by side upon the +trodden grass in the absence of more suitable accommodations. It is said +that when the flames threatened to reach the square, the dead, mostly +unknown, were removed to Columbia Square, where they were buried when +danger threatened that quarter. Others were taken to the Presidio, and +here the soldiers pressed into service all men who came near and forced +them to labor at burying the dead, a temporary cemetery being opened +there. So thick were the corpses piled up that they were becoming a +menace, and early in the day the order was issued to bury them at any +cost. The soldiers were needed for other work, so, at the point of +rifles, the citizens were compelled to take to the work of burying. Some +objected at first, but the troops stood no trifling, and every man +who came within reach was forced to work. Rich men, unused to physical +exertion, labored by the side of the workingmen digging trenches in +which to bury the dead. The able-bodied being engaged in fighting the +flames, General Funston ordered that the old men and the weaklings +should take the work in hand. They did it willingly enough, but had they +refused the troops on guard would have forced them. It was ruled that +every man physically capable of handling a spade or a pick should dig +for an hour. When the first shallow graves were ready the men, under the +direction of the troops, lowered the bodies, several in a grave, and +a strange burial began. The women gathered about crying. Many of them +knelt while a Catholic priest read the burial service and pronounced +absolution. All Thursday afternoon this went on. + +In this connection the following stories are told: + +Dr. George V. Schramm, a young medical graduate, said: + +"As I was passing down Market Street with a new-found friend, an +automobile came rushing along with two soldiers in it. My doctor's badge +protected me, but the soldiers invited my companion, a husky six-footer, +to get into the automobile. He said: + +"'I don't want to ride, and have plenty of business to attend to.' + +"Once more they invited him, and he refused. One of the soldiers pointed +a gun at him and said: + +"'We need such men as you to save women and children and to help fight +the fire.' + +"The man was on his way to find his sister, but he yielded to the +inevitable. He worked all day with the soldiers, and when released to +get lunch he felt that he could conscientiously desert to go and find +his own loved ones." + +"Half a block down the street the soldiers were stopping all pedestrians +without the official pass which showed that they were on relief +business, and putting them to work heaving bricks off the pavement. Two +dapper men with canes, the only clean people I saw, were caught at the +corner by a sergeant, who showed great joy as he said: + +"'I give you time to git off those kid gloves, and then hustle, damn +you, hustle!' The soldiers took delight in picking out the best dressed +men and keeping them at the brick piles for long terms. I passed them +in the shelter of a provision wagon, afraid that even my pass would not +save me. Two men are reported shot because they refused to turn in and +help." + +Many of the dead, of course, will never be identified, though the names +were taken of all who were known and descriptions written of the others. +A story comes to us of one young girl who had followed for two days the +body of her father, her only relative. It had been taken from a house +on Mission Street to an undertaker's shop just after the quake. The fire +drove her out with her charge, and it was placed in Mechanics' Pavilion. +That went, and the body rested for a day at the Presidio, waiting +burial. With many others, she wept on the border of the burned area, +while the women cared for her. + + +VICTIMS TAKEN FROM THE RUINS. + + +On Friday eleven postal clerks, all alive, were taken from the debris of +the Post Office. All at first were thought to be dead, but it was found +that, although they were buried under the stone and timber, every one +was alive. They had been for three days without food or water. + +Two theatrical people were in a hotel in Santa Rosa when the shock came. +The room was on the fourth floor. The roof collapsed. One of them was +thrown from the bed and both were caught by the descending timbers and +pinned helplessly beneath the debris. They could speak to each other and +could touch one another's hands, but the weight was so great that they +could do nothing to liberate themselves. After three hours rescuers +came, cut a hole in the roof and both were released uninjured. + +Even the docks were converted into hospitals in the stringent exigency +of the occasion, about 100 patients being stretched on Folsom street +dock at one time. In the evening tugs conveyed them to Goat Island, +where they were lodged in the hospital. The docks from Howard Street to +Folsom Street had been saved, the fire at this point not being permitted +to creep farther east than Main Street. Another series of fatalities +occurred, caused by the stampeding of a herd of cattle at Sixth and +Folsom Streets. Three hundred of the panic-stricken animals ran amuck +when they saw and felt the flames and charged wildly down the street, +trampling under foot all who were in the way. One man was gored through +and through by a maddened bull. At least a dozen persons', it is said, +were killed, though probably this is an overestimate. One observer tells +us that "the first sight I saw was a man with blood streaming from his +wounds, carrying a dead woman in his arms. He placed the body on the +floor of the court at the Palace Hotel, and then told me he was the +janitor of a big building. The first he knew of the catastrophe he found +himself in the basement, his dead wife beside him. The building had +simply split in two, and thrown them down." + +In the camps of refuge the deaths came frequently. Physicians were +everywhere in evidence, but, without medicine or instruments, were +fearfully handicapped. Men staggered in from their herculean efforts at +the fire lines, only to fall gasping on the grass. There was nothing to +be done. Injured lay groaning. Tender hands were willing, but of water +there was none. "Water, water, for God's sake get me some water," was +the cry that struck into thousands of souls of San Francisco. + +The list of dead was not confined to San Francisco, but extended to many +of the neighboring towns, especially to Santa Rosa, where sixty were +reported dead and a large number missing, and to the insane asylum in +its vicinity, from the ruins of which a hundred or more of dead bodies +were taken. + + +THE FREE USE OF RIFLES. + + +A citizen tells us that "in the early part of the evening, and while +the twilight lasts, there is a good deal of trafficking up and down +the sidewalks. Having finished their dinners of government provisions, +cooked on the street or in the parks, the people promenade for half an +hour or so. By half-past eight the town is closed tight. A rat scurrying +in the street will bring a soldier's rifle to his shoulder. Any one not +wearing a uniform or a Red Cross badge is a suspicious character and may +be shot unless he halts at command. Even the men in uniform do well to +stop still, for it is hard to tell a uniform in the half light thrown up +by the burning town and the great shadows. + +"Last night two of us ventured out on Van Ness Avenue a little late. +There came up the noise of some kind of a shooting scrape far down +the street. We hurried in that direction to see what was doing. An +eighteen-year-old boy in a uniform barred the way, levelled his rifle +and said in a peremptory way: + +"'Go home.' + +"We took a course down the block, where an older soldier, more +communicative but equally peremptory, informed us that we were trifling +with our lives, news or no news. + +"'We've shot about 300 people for one thing or another,' he said. 'Now, +dodge trouble. Git!' That ended the expedition." + + +THE LOSS IN WEALTH. + + +If we pass now from the record of the loss of lives to that of the +destruction of wealth, the estimates exceed by far any fire losses +recorded in history. + +The truth is that when flames eat out the heart of a great city, devour +its vast business establishments, storehouses and warehouses, sweep +through its centres of opulence, destroy its wharves with their +accumulation of goods, spread ruin and havoc everywhere, it is +impossible at first to estimate the loss. Only gradually, as time goes +on, is the true loss discovered, and never perhaps very accurately, +since the owners and the records of riches often disappear with the +wealth itself. In regard to San Francisco, the early estimate was that +three-fourths of the city, valued at $500,000,000, was destroyed. + +But early estimates are apt to be exaggerated, and on Friday, two days +after the disaster, we find this estimate reduced to $250,000,000. A few +more days passed and these figures shrunk still further, though it was +still largely conjectural, the means of making a trustworthy estimate +being very restricted. Later on the pendulum swung upward again, and two +weeks after the fire the closest estimates that could be made fixed the +property loss at close to $350,000,000, or double that of the Chicago +fire. But as the actual loss in the latter case proved considerably +below the early estimates, the same may prove to be the case with San +Francisco. + +Special personal losses were in many cases great. Thus the Palace Hotel +was built at a cost of $6,000,000, and the St. Francis, which originally +cost $4,000,000, was being enlarged at great expense. Several of the +great mansions on Nob's Hill cost a million or more, the City Hall was +built at a cost of $7,000,000, the new Post Office was injured to the +extent of half a million, while a large number of other buildings might +be named whose value, with their contents, was measured in the millions. + +It was not until May 3d that news came over the wires of another serious +item of loss. The merchants had waited until then for their fire-proof +safes and vaults to cool off before attempting to open them. When this +was at length done the results proved disheartening. Out of 576 vaults +and safes opened in the district east of Powell and north of Market +Street, where the flames had raged with the greatest fury, it was found +that fully forty per cent. had not performed their duty. When opened +they were found to contain nothing but heaps of ashes. The valuable +account books, papers and in some cases large sums of money had +vanished, the loss of the accounts being a severe calamity in a business +sense. As all the banks were equipped with the best fire-proof vaults, +no fear was felt for the safety of their contents. + + +LOOTERS IN CHINATOWN. + + +Chinatown suffered severely, the merchants of that locality possessing +large stocks of valuable goods, many of which were looted by seemingly +respectable sightseers after the ruins had cooled off, bronze, porcelain +and other valuable goods being taken from the ruins. One example +consisted in a mass of gold and silver valued at $2,500, which had been +melted by the fire in the store of Tai Sing, a Chinese merchant. This +was found by the police on May 3d in a place where it had been hidden by +looters. + +But with all its losses San Francisco does not despair. The spirit of +its citizens is heroic, and there are some hopeful signs in the air. The +insurances due are estimated to approximate $175,000,000, and there +are other moneys likely to be spent on building during the coming year, +making a total of over $200,000,000. Eastern capitalists also talk of +investing $100,000,000 of new capital in the rebuilding of the +city, while the San Francisco authorities have a project of issuing +$200,000,000 of municipal bonds, the payment to be guaranteed by the +United States Government. Thus, two weeks after the earthquake, daylight +was already showing strongly ahead and hope was fast beginning to +replace despair. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Wonderful Record of Thrilling Escapes. + + +Shuddering under the memories of what seems more like a nightmare than +actual reality to the survivors of this frightful calamity, they have +tried to picture in words far from adequate the days of terror and the +nights of horror that fell to the lot of the people of the Golden Gate +city and their guests. + +They recount the roar of falling structures and the groans and pitiful +cries of those pinned beneath the timbers of collapsing buildings. They +speak of their climbing over dead bodies heaped in the streets, and of +following tortuous ways to find the only avenue of escape--the ferry, +where men and women fought like infuriated animals, bent on escape from +a fiery furnace. + +These refugees tell of the great caravan composed of homeless persons +in its wild flight to the hills for safety, and in that great procession +women, harnessed to vehicles, trudging along and tugging at the shafts, +hauling all that was left of their earthly belongings, and a little food +that foresight told them would be necessary to stay the pangs of hunger +in the hours of misery that must follow. + +We give below an especially accurate picture from the description of the +well-known writer, Jane Tingley, who, an eye-witness of it all, did so +much to help the sufferers, and who, with all the unselfishness of true +American womanhood, sacrificed her own comfort and needs for those of +others. + +"May God be merciful to the women and children in this land of +desolation and despair!" she wrote on April 21st. + +"Men have done, are doing such deeds of sublime self-sacrifice, of +magnificent heroism, that deserve to make the title of American manhood +immortal in the pages of history. The rest lies with the Almighty. + +"I spent all of last night and to-day in that horror city across the +bay. I went from this unharmed city of plenty, blooming with abounding +health, thronged with happy mothers and joyous children, and spent hours +among the blackened ruins and out on the windswept slopes of the sand +hills by the sea, and I heard the voice of Rachel weeping for her +children in the wilderness and mourning because she found them not. + +"I climbed to the top of Strawberry Hill, in Golden Gate Park, and saw +a woman, half naked, almost starving, her hair dishevelled and an +unnatural lustre in her eyes, her gaze fixed upon the waters in the +distance, and her voice repeating over and over again: 'Here I am, my +pretties; come here, come here.' + +"I took her by the hand and led her down to the grass at the foot of the +hill. A man--her husband--received her from me and wept as he said: 'She +is calling our three little children. She thinks the sounds of the ocean +waves are the voices of our lost darlings.' + +"Ever since they became separated from their children in that first +terrific onrush of the multitude when the fire swept along Mission +Street these two had been tramping over the hills and parks without food +or rest, searching for their little ones. To all whom they have met they +have addressed the same pitiful question: 'Have you seen anything of our +lost babies?' They will not know what has become of them until order has +been brought out of chaos; until the registration headquarters of the +military authorities has secured the names of all who are among the +straggling wanderers around the camps of the homeless. Perhaps then it +will be found that these children are in a trench among the corpses of +the weaklings who have succumbed to the frightful rigors of the last +three days. + +"Last night a soldier seized me by the arm and cried: 'If you are a +woman with a woman's heart, go in there and do whatever you can.' + +"'In there' meant behind a barricade of brush, covered with a blanket +that had been hastily thrown together to form a rude shelter. I went in +and saw one of my own sex lying on the bare grass naked, her clothing +torn to shreds; scattered over the green beside her. She was moaning +pitifully, and it needed no words to tell a woman what the matter was, +I bade my man escort to find a doctor, or at least send more women +at once. He ran off and soon two sympathetic ladies hastened into the +shelter. In an hour my escort returned with a young medical student. +Under the best ministrations we could find, a new life was ushered into +this hell, which, a few hours before, was the fairest among cities. + +"'There have been many such cases,' said the medical student. 'Many of +the mothers have died--few of the babies have lived. I, personally, know +of nine babies that have been born in the park to-day. There must have +been many others here, among the sand hills, and at the Presidio.'" + +"Think of it, you happy women who have become mothers in comfortable +homes, attended with every care that loving hands can bestow. Think of +the dreadful plight of these poor members of your sex. The very thought +of it is enough to make the hearts of women burst with pity. + +"To-day I walked among the people crowded on the Panhandle. Opposite +the Lyon Street entrance, on the north side, I saw a young woman sitting +tailor-fashion in the roadway, which, in happier days, was the carriage +boulevard. She held a dishpan and was looking at her reflection in the +polished bottom, while another girl was arranging her hair. I recognized +a young wife, whose marriage to a prominent young lawyer eight months +ago was a gala event among that little handful of people who clung to +the old-time fashionable district of Valencia Street, like the Phelan +and Dent families, and refused to move from that aristocratic section +when the new-made, millionaires began to build their palaces on Nob Hill +and Pacific Heights. I spoke to the young woman about the disadvantages +of making her toilet under such untoward circumstances. + +"'Ah, Julia, dear, you must stay to luncheon,' she said, extending her +fingers just as though she stood in her own drawing-room." + + +MISERY DRIVES SOME INSANE. + + +"I looked at the maid in astonishment, for I had never met the young +society woman before. The maid shook her head and whispered when she got +the chance: + +"'My mistress is not in her right mind.' + +"'Where is her husband?' I asked. + +"'He has gone to try to get some food,' said the girl. 'She imagines +that she is in her own home, before her dressing table, and is having me +do up her hair against some of her friends dropping in.' + +"'She must have suffered,' I said, 'to cause such a mental derangement.' + +"The girl's eyes filled with tears. She told me that her mistress had +seen her brother killed by falling timbers while they were hurrying to +a place of safety. A little farther on I saw two women concealed as best +they might be behind a tuft of sand brush, one lying face down on the +ground, while the other vigorously massaged her bare back. I asked if +I might help, and learned that the ministering angel was the unmarried +daughter of one of the city's richest merchants, and that the girl whom +she succored had been employed as a servant in her father's household. +The girl's back had been injured by a fall, and her mistress' fair hands +were trying to make her well again. + +"Thus has this overwhelming common woe levelled all barriers of caste +and placed the suffering multitude on a basis of democracy. On a rock +behind a manzanita bush near the edge of Stow Lake I saw a Chinaman +making a pile of broken twigs in the early morning. The man felt inside +his blouse and swore a gibbering, unintelligible Asiatic oath as his +hand came forth empty. Observing my escort, the Chinaman approached and +said: + +"'Bosse, alle same, catchee match?' + +"My escort gave him the desired article, and the Chinaman made a fire of +his pile of twigs. 'Why are you making a fire, John?' I asked. + +"'Bleakfast,' he replied laconically. + +"I asked him where his food might be, and he gave us a quick glance of +suspicion as he said briefly, 'No sabbe.' + +"We stood watching him, evidently to his great distress, and finally he +made bold to say, 'You no stand lound, bosse. You go 'way.' + +"We left him, but after making the tour around the lake came back to +the same place. There sat four people on the ground eating fried pork, +potatoes and Chinese cakes. In a young woman of the group I recognized +one whom I had seen dancing at one of Mr. Greenway's Friday Night +Cotillion balls in the Palace Hotel's maple room during the winter. They +offered to share their meal with us, but we told them that we had just +come from breakfast in Oakland. I told them about the strange conduct +of their Chinaman, who was traveling back and forth from his fire to the +'table' with the food as it became ready to serve. + +"The father of the family laughed." + + +SOCIETY FOLKS COMPELLED TO CAMP. + + +"'Yes,' he said, 'that is Charlie's way. He has been with us many years, +and when our home was destroyed he came out here with us in preference +to seeking refuge among his countrymen in Chinatown. Yesterday we were +without food, and Charlie disappeared. I thought he had deserted us, +but toward dark he came back with a bamboo pole over his shoulder and +a Chinese market gardener's basket suspended from either end. In one of +the baskets he had a pile of blankets and a lot of canvas. In the other +was an assortment of pork, flour, Chinese cakes and vegetables, besides +a half-dozen chickens and a couple of bagfuls of rice.' + +"'Charlie had been foraging in Chinatown for us before the fire reached +that quarter. He made a tent and improvised beds for us, and he has the +food concealed somewhere in the vicinity, but where he will not tell +us, for fear that we will give some of it to others and reduce our own +supply. Charlie boils rice for himself. He will not touch the other +food. Without him we should have been starving.'" + +G. A. Raymond, who was in the Palace Hotel when the earthquake occurred, +says: + +"I had $600 in gold under my pillow. I awoke as I was thrown out of +bed. Attempting to walk, the floor shook so that I fell. I grabbed my +clothing and rushed down into the office, where dozens were already +congregated. Suddenly the lights went out, and every one rushed for the +door. + +"Outside I witnessed a sight I never want to see again. It was dawn +and light. I looked up. The air was filled with falling stones. People +around me were crushed to death on all sides. All around the huge +buildings were shaking and waving. Every moment there were reports like +100 cannon going off at one time. Then streams of fire would shoot out, +and other reports followed. + +"I asked a man standing by me what had happened. Before he could answer +a thousand bricks fell on him and he was killed. A woman threw her arms +around my neck. I pushed her away and fled. All around me buildings were +rocking and flames shooting. As I ran people on all sides were crying, +praying and calling for help. I thought the end of the world had come. + +"I met a Catholic priest, and he said: 'We must get to the ferry.' He +knew the way, and we rushed down Market Street. Men, women and children +were crawling from the debris. Hundreds were rushing down the street, +and every minute people were felled by falling debris. + +"At places the streets had cracked and opened. Chasms extended in all +directions. I saw a drove of cattle, wild with fright, rushing up Market +Street. I crouched beside a swaying building. As they came nearer they +disappeared, seeming to drop into the earth. When the last had gone I +went nearer and found they had indeed been precipitated into the earth, +a wide fissure having swallowed them. I worked my way around them and +ran out to the ferry. I was crazy with fear and the horrible sights. + +"How I reached the ferry I cannot say. It was bedlam, pandemonium and +hell rolled into one. There must have been 10,000 people trying to get +on that boat. Men and women fought like wild cats to push their way +aboard. Clothes were torn from the backs of men and women and children +indiscriminately. Women fainted, and there was no water at hand with +which to revive them. Men lost their reason at those awful moments. One +big, strong man, beat his head against one of the iron pillars on the +dock, and cried out in a loud voice: 'This fire must be put out! The +city must be saved!' It was awful." + + +TERRIBLE SCENE AT THE FERRY. + + +"When the gates were opened the mad rush began. All were swept aboard in +an irresistible tide. We were jammed on the deck like sardines in a +box. No one cared. At last the boat pulled out. Men and women were still +jumping for it, only to fall into the water and probably drown." + +The members of the Metropolitan Opera Company, of New York, were in San +Francisco at this time, and nearly all of these famous singers, known +all over the world, suffered from the great disaster. + +All of the splendid scenery, stage fittings, costumes and musical +instruments were lost in the fire, which destroyed the Grand Opera +House, where the season had just opened to splendid audiences. + +Many of the operatic stars have given very interesting accounts of their +experiences. Signor Caruso, the famous tenor and one of the principals +of the company, had one of the most thrilling experiences. He and Signor +Rossi, a favorite basso, and his inseparable companion, had a suite +on the seventh floor and were awakened by the terrific shaking of the +building. The shock nearly threw Caruso out of bed. He said: + +"I threw open the window, and I think I let out the grandest notes I +ever hit in all my life. I do not know why I did this. I presume I was +too excited to do anything else." + + +GREAT SINGERS ESCAPE. + + +"Looking out of the window, I saw buildings all around rocking like the +devil had hold of them. I wondered what was going on. Then I heard Rossi +come scampering into my room. 'My God, it's an earthquake!' he yelled. +'Get your things and run!' I grabbed what I could lay my hands on and +raced like a madman for the office. On the way down I shouted as loud as +I could so the others would wake up. + +"When I got to the office I thought of my costumes and sent my valet, +Martino, back after them. He packed things up and carried the trunks +down on his back. I helped him take them to Union Square." + +It is said that ten minutes later he was seen seated on his valise in +the middle of the street. But to continue his story: + +"I walked a few feet away to see how to get out, and when I came back +four Chinamen were lugging my trunks away. I grabbed one of them by the +ears, and the others jumped on me. I took out my revolver and pointed +it at them. They spit at me. I was mad, but I hated to kill them, so I +found a soldier, and he made them give up the trunks. + +"Ah, that soldier was a fine fellow. He went up to the Chinamen and +slapped them upon the face, once, twice, three times. They all howled +like the devil and ran away. I put my revolver back into my pocket, and +then I thanked the soldier. He said: 'Don't mention it. Them Chinks +would steal the money off a dead man's eyes.'" + +They say that Rossi, though almost in tears, was heard trying his voice +at a corner near the Palace Hotel. + + +TEDDY'S PICTURE PROVES "OPEN SESAME." + + +"I went to Lafayette Square and slept on the grass. When I tried to get +into the square the soldiers pushed me back. I pleaded with them, but +they would not listen. I had under my arm a large photograph of Theodore +Roosevelt, upon which was written: 'With kindest regards from Theodore +Roosevelt.' I showed them this, and one of them said: 'If you are a +friend of Teddy, come in and make yourself at home.' + +"I put my trunks in the cellar of the Hotel St. Francis and thought they +would be safe. The hotel caught fire, and my trunks were all burned up. +To think I took so much trouble to save them!" + +In spite of the news of all the woe and suffering which we hear, it is +cheering to learn also of the many thousands of heroic deeds by brave +men during the terrible scenes enacted through the four days passing +since the eventful morning when the earth began to demolish splendid +buildings of business and residence and fire sprang up to complete the +city's destruction. The Mayor and his forces of police, the troops +under command of General Funston, volunteer aids to all these, and the +husbands of terrified wives, and the sons, brothers and other relatives +who toiled for many consecutive hours through smoke and falling walls +and an inferno of flames and explosions and traps of danger of all +kinds, often without food or water--toiling as men never toiled before +to save life and relieve distress of all kinds--all these were examples +of heroism and devotion to duty seldom witnessed in any scenes of terror +in all time. There are brave, unselfish men and heroic women yet in the +world, and all of the best of human nature has been exhibited in large +dimensions in the terrible disaster at San Francisco. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Disaster Spreads Over the Golden State + + +The first news that the world received of the earthquake came direct +from San Francisco and was confined largely to descriptions of +the disaster which had overwhelmed that city. It was so sudden, so +appalling, so tragic in its nature, that for the time being it +quite overshadowed the havoc and misery wrought in a number of other +California towns of lesser note. + +As the truth, however, became gradually sifted out of the tangle of +rumors, the horror, instead of being diminished, was vastly increased. +It became evident that instead of this being a local catastrophe, the +full force of the seismic waves had travelled from Ukiah in the north +to Monterey in the south, a distance of about 180 miles, and had made +itself felt for a considerable distance from the Pacific westward, +wrecking the larger buildings of every town in its path, rending and +ruining as it went, and doing millions of dollars worth of damage. + + +THE DESTRUCTION OF SANTA ROSA. + + +In Santa Rosa, sixty miles to the north of San Francisco, and one of +the most beautiful towns of California, practically every building +was destroyed or badly damaged. The brick and stone business blocks, +together with the public buildings, were thrown down. The Court House, +Hall of Records, the Occidental and Santa Rosa Hotels, the Athenaeum +Theatre, the new Masonic Temple, Odd Fellows' Block, all the banks, +everything went, and in all the city not one brick or stone building was +left standing, except the California Northwestern Depot. + +In the residential portion of the city the foundations receded from +under the houses, badly wrecking about twenty of the largest and +damaging every one more or less; and here, as in San Francisco, flames +followed the earthquake, breaking out in a dozen different places at +once and completing the work of devastation. From the ruins of the +fallen houses fifty-eight bodies were taken out and interred during +the first few days, and the total of dead and injured was close to a +hundred. The money loss at this small city is estimated at $3,000,000. + +The destruction of Santa Rosa gave rise to general sorrow among the +residents of the interior of the State. It was one of the show towns of +California, and not only one of the most prosperous cities in the +fine county of Sonoma, but one of the most picturesque in the State. +Surrounding it there were miles of orchards, vineyards and corn fields. +The beautiful drives of the city were adorned with bowers of roses, +which everywhere were seen growing about the homes of the people. In +its vicinity are the famous gardens of Luther Burbank, the "California +wizard," but these fortunately escaped injury. + +At San Jose, another very beautiful city of over 20,000 population, +not a single brick or stone building of two stories or over was left +standing. Among those wrecked were the Hall of justice, just completed +at a cost of $300,000; the new High School, the Presbyterian Church and +St. Patrick's Cathedral. Numbers of people were caught in the ruins and +maimed or killed. The death list appears to have been small, but the +property damage was not less than $5,000,000. The Agnew State Insane +Asylum, in the vicinity of San Jose, was entirely destroyed, more than +half the inmates being killed or injured. + + +THE STANFORD UNIVERSITY. + + +The Leland Stanford, Jr., University, at Palo Alto (about thirty miles +south of San Francisco), felt the full force of the earthquake and was +badly wrecked. Only two lives were lost as a result of the earthquake, +one of a student, the other of a fireman, but eight students were +injured more or less seriously. The damage to the buildings is estimated +by President Jordan to amount to about $4,000,000. + +The memorial church, with its twelve marble figures of the apostles, +each weighing two tons, was badly injured by the fall of its Gothic +spire, which crashed through the roof and demolished much of the +interior; the great entrance archway was split in twain and wrecked; so, +too, were the library, the gymnasium and the power house. A number of +other buildings in the outer quadrangle and some of the small workshops +were seriously damaged. + +Encina Hall and the inner quadrangle were practically uninjured, and the +bulk of the books, collections and apparatus escaped damage. + +Sacramento, together with all the smaller cities and towns that dot the +great Sacramento Valley for a distance fifty miles south and 150 miles +north of the capital, escaped without injury, not a single pane of glass +being broken or a brick displaced in Sacramento and no injury done in +the other places, they lying eastward of the seat of serious earthquake +activity. + +Los Angeles and Santa Barbara escaped with a slight trembling; Stockton, +103 miles north of San Francisco, felt a severe shock and the Santa Fe +bridge over the San Joaquin River at this point settled several inches. +The only place in Southern California that suffered was Brawley, a small +town lying 120 miles south of Los Angeles, about 100 buildings in the +town and the surrounding valley being injured, though none of them were +destroyed. + + +THE EARTHQUAKE AT OTHER CITIES. + + +At Alameda, on the bay opposite San Francisco, a score of chimneys were +shaken down and other injuries done. Railroad tracks were twisted, and +over 600 feet of track of the Oakland Transit Company's railway sank +four feet. The total damage done amounted to probably $200,000, but no +lives were lost. Tomales, a place of 350 inhabitants, was left a pile of +ruins. + +At Los Panos several buildings were wrecked, causing damage to the +extent of $75,000, but no lives were lost. + +At Loma Prieta the earthquake caused a mine house to slip down the side +of a mountain, ten men being buried in the ruins. + +Fort Bragg, one of the principal lumbering towns in Mendocino County, +was practically wiped out by fire following the earthquake, but out of a +population of 5,000 only one was killed, though scores were injured. + +The town of Berkeley, across the bay from San Francisco, suffered +considerable damage from twisted structures, fallen walls and broken +chimneys, the greatest injury being in the collapse of the town hall +and the ruin of the deaf and dumb asylum. The University of California, +situated here, was fortunate in escaping injury, it being reported +that not a building was harmed in the slightest degree. Another public +edifice of importance and interest, in a different section of the State, +the famous Lick Astronomical Observatory, was equally fortunate, no +damage being done to the buildings or the instruments. + + +AT THE STATE UNIVERSITY. + + +Salinas, a town down the coast near Monterey, suffered severely, the +place being to a large extent destroyed, with an estimated loss of over +$1,000,000. The Spreckels' sugar factory and a score of other buildings +were reported ruined and a number of lives lost. During the succeeding +week several other shocks of some strength were reported from this town. + +Thus the ruinous work of the earthquake stretched over a broad track +of prosperous, peaceful and happy country, embracing one of the best +sections of California, laying waste not only the towns in its path, +but doing much damage to ranch houses and country residences. Strange +manifestations of nature were reported from the interior, where the +ground was opened in many places like a ploughed field. Great rents +in the earth were reported, and for many miles north from Los Angeles +miniature geysers are said to have spouted volcano-like streams of hot +mud. + +Railroad tracks in some localities were badly injured, sinking or +lifting, and being put out of service until repaired. In fact, the +ruinous effects of the earthquake immensely exceeded those of any +similar catastrophe ever before known in the United States, and when +the destruction done by the succeeding conflagration in San Francisco is +taken into account the California earthquake of 1906 takes rank with the +most destructive of those recorded in history. + + + +CHAPTER X. + +All America and Canada to the Rescue + + +During the first three days after the terrible news had been flashed +over the world the relief fund from the nation had leaped beyond the +$5,000,000 mark. New York took the lead in the most generous giving that +the world has ever seen. From every town and country village the people +hastened to the Town Halls, the newspaper offices and wherever help was +to be found most quickly, to add their savings and to sacrifice all but +necessities for their stricken fellow-countrymen. Never has there been +such a practical illustration of brotherly love. A perfect shower of +gold and food was poured out to the sufferers to give them immediate +assistance and to help them to a new start in life. All relief records +were broken within two days of the disaster, but still the purses of the +rich and poor alike continued to add to the huge contributions. Though +the relief records were broken, every succeeding dispatch from the West +told too plainly the terrible fact that all records of necessity were +also broken. + +Over the entire globe Americans wherever they were hastened to cable or +telegraph their bankers to add their share to the great work. A large +fund was at once started in London, and with contributions of from +$2,000 to $12,000 the sum was soon raised to hundreds of thousands of +dollars. + +Individual contributions of $100,000 were common. In addition to John +D. Rockefeller's gift of this sum, his company, the Standard Oil, gave +another $100,000. The Steel Corporation and Andrew Carnegie each +gave $100,000. From London William Waldorf Astor cabled his American +representative, Charles A. Peabody, to place $100,000 at once at +the disposal of Mayor Schmitz, of San Francisco, which was done. The +Dominion Government of Canada made a special appropriation of $100,000 +and the Canadian Bank of Commerce, at Toronto, gave $10,000. And two of +the great steamship companies owned in Germany sent $25,000 each. + + +RIGHT OF WAY FOR FOOD TRAINS. + + +On nearly a dozen roads, two days before the fire was over, great trains +of freight cars loaded with foodstuffs were hastening at express +speed to San Francisco. They had the right of way on every line. E. H. +Harriman, in addition to giving $200,000 for the Union Pacific, Southern +Pacific and other Harriman roads, issued orders that all relief trains +bound for the desolated city should have Precedence over all other +business of the roads. + +Advices from many points indicated that at least 150 freight cars loaded +with the necessaries so eagerly awaited in San Francisco were speeding +there as fast as steam could drive them. In addition, several steamers +from other Pacific coast points, all food-laden, were rushing toward the +stricken city. + +The rapidity with which the various relief funds in every city grew was +almost magical. + +From corporations, firms, labor unions, religious societies, +individuals, rich and poor, money flowed. Even the children in the +schools gave their pennies. Every grade of society, every branch of +trade and commerce seemed inspired by a spirit of emulation in giving. + +The United States Government at once voted a contribution of $1,000,000, +and government supplies were rushed from every post in the West. + +The $1,000,000 government gift, which formed the nucleus of the relief +fund, was doubled on Saturday by a resolution appropriating another, and +a vote was taken on Monday to increase this sum to $1,500,000, making a +total government contribution of $2,500,000. This was largely expended +in supplies of absolute necessaries, furnished from the stores of the +War Department, and those first sent being five carloads of army medical +supplies from St. Louis. A cargo of evaporated cream was also sent to +use in the care of little children, while the Red Cross Society shipped +a carload of eggs from Chicago. Dr. Edward Devine, special Red Cross +agent in San Francisco, was appointed to distribute these supplies. + + +CARGOES OF SUPPLIES. + + +Trainloads of other supplies were dispatched in all haste from various +points in the West and East, carrying provisions of all kinds, tents, +cots, clothing, bedding and a great variety of other articles. A special +train of twenty-six cars was dispatched from Portland, Oregon, on +Thursday night, conveying ten doctors, twenty trained nurses and 800,000 +pounds of provisions. Chicago sent meat. Minneapolis sent flour, and, +in fact, every part of the country moved in the greatest haste for the +relief of the stricken city. + +There was urgent need of haste. On Friday, while the flames were still +making their way onward, General Funston telegraphed: "Famine seems +inevitable." The people of the country took a more hopeful view of it, +and by Saturday night the spectre of famine was definitely driven from +the field and food for all the fugitives was within reach. + + +THE SYMPATHY OF THE PEOPLE AWAKES. + + +On all sides the people were awake and doing. In all the great +cities agencies to receive contributions were opened, and many of the +newspapers undertook the task of collecting and forwarding supplies. The +smaller towns were equally alert in furnishing their quota to the good +work, and from countryside and village contributions were forwarded +until the fund accumulated to an unprecedented amount. Collections were +made in factories, in stores, in offices, in the public schools; cash +boxes or globes stood in all frequented places and were rapidly filled +with bank notes; theatrical and musical entertainments were given for +the benefit of the earthquake sufferers; never had there been such an +awakening. As an instance of the spirit displayed, one man came running +into a banking house and threw a thousand dollar bill on the counter. + +"For San Francisco," he said, as he turned toward the door. + +"What name?" asked the teller. + +"Put it down to 'cash,'" he answered, as he vanished. + +Rapidly the fund accumulated. A few days brought it up to the $5,000,000 +mark. Then it grew to $10,000,000. Within ten days' time the relief fund +was estimated at $18,000,000, and the good work was still going on--in +less profusion, it is true, but still the spirit was alive. + + +FOREIGN OFFERS OF AID. + + +The generous impulse was not confined to the United States. From all +countries came offers of aid. Canada was promptly in the field, and +the chief nations of Europe were quick to follow, while Japan made a +generous offer, and in far Australia funds were started at the various +cities for the sufferers. No doubt a large sum from foreign lands would +have been available had not President Roosevelt declined to accept +contributions from abroad, as not needed in view of America's abundant +response. To the Hamburg-Line which offered $25,000, the following +letter was sent: + +"The President deeply appreciates your message of sympathy, and desires +me to thank you heartily for the kind offer of outside aid. Although +declining, the President earnestly wishes you to understand how much he +appreciates your cordial and generous sympathy." + +All other offerings from abroad were in the same thankful spirit +declined, even those from our immediate neighbors, Canada and Mexico. +Some feeling was aroused by this, especially in the relief committee at +San Francisco, which felt that the need of that city was so great and +urgent that no offer of relief should have been declined. In response +the President explained that he only spoke for the government, in his +official capacity, and that San Francisco was in no sense debarred from +accepting any contributions made directly to it. + +It may justly be said for the people of this country that their +spontaneous generosity in the presence of a great calamity, either at +home or abroad, is always magnificent. It never waits for solicitation. +It does not delay even until the necessity is demonstrated, but it +assumes that where there is great destruction of property and homes are +swept away there must be distress which calls for immediate relief. + +There is one ray of light in the gloom caused by the calamity at San +Francisco. A truly splendid display of brotherly love and sympathy has +been shown by the people of this country, and a similar display was +ready to be shown by the people of the civilized world had it been felt +that the occasion demanded it and that the exigency surpassed the power +of our people to meet it. + + +ENTERPRISE IN SAN FRANCISCO. + + +In the face of an appalling and death-dealing disaster, rendering an +entire community dependent for the bare necessities of life and putting +it in imminent danger of greater horrors, the nation has been stirred +as it has rarely been before, and there have been awakened those deeper +feelings of brotherhood which are referred to in the oft-quoted passage +that "one touch of nature makes the whole world akin." + +The nature indicated in this instance is human nature in its highest +manifestation, the sympathetic sentiment that stirs deeply in all our +hearts and needs but the occasion to make itself warmly manifested. +There is something incomparably splendid in the spectacle of an entire +nation straining every nerve to send succor to the helpless and the +suffering, and this spectacle has warmed the hearts of our people to the +uttermost and inspired them to make the most strenuous efforts to drive +away the gaunt wolf of famine from the ruined homes of our far Pacific +brethren. + +It may be said that San Francisco will be willing to accept this relief +only so long as stern necessity demands it. At this writing only two +weeks have passed since the dread calamity, and already active steps +are being taken to provide for themselves. As an example of their +enterprise, it may be said that their newspapers hardly suspended at +all, the Evening Post alone suspending publication for a time from +being unable to acquire a plant in the vicinity of the city. When the +conflagration made it apparent that all plants would be destroyed, the +Bulletin put at work a force in its composing rooms, a hand-bill was +set and some hundreds of copies run off on the proof-press, giving the +salient features of the day's news. + +The morning papers, the Call, Chronicle and Examiner, retired to +Oakland, on the other side of the bay, and there, on Thursday morning, +issued a joint paper from the office of the Oakland Tribune. On Friday +morning they split forces again, the Examiner retaining the use of the +Tribune plant and the Call and Chronicle issuing from the office of +the Oakland Herald. Two days later the Call secured the service of +the Oakland Enquirer plant. Meantime, on Friday, the Bulletin, after a +suspension of one day, made arrangements for the use in the afternoon +of the Oakland Herald equipment, and from these sources and under such +circumstances the San Francisco papers have been issuing. + +Offices were hurriedly opened on Fillmore Street, which today is the +main thoroughfare of San Francisco, and from these headquarters the news +of the day as it is gathered is transmitted by means of automobiles and +ferry service to the Oakland shore. + +There also were accepted such advertisements as had been offered. The +number of these was, perhaps, the best visual sign of the resurrection +of the new city. It was noted that in a fourteen-page paper printed +within two weeks after the fire by the Examiner there were over nine +pages of advertisements, and in a sixteen-page paper published by the +Chronicle at least fifty per cent. of its space was devoted to the same +end. + +Many of the larger factories left unharmed were also quick to start +work. At the Union Iron Works 2,300 men were promptly employed, and the +management expected within a fortnight to have the full complement of +its force, nearly 4,000 men, engaged. No damage was done to the three +new warships being built at these works for the government, the cruisers +California and Milwaukee and the battleship South Dakota. The steamer +City of Puebla, which was sunk in the bay, has been raised and is being +repaired. Workmen are also engaged fixing the steamship Columbia, which +was turned on her side. The hulls of the new Hawaiian-American Steamship +Company's liners were pitched about four feet to the south, but were +uninjured and only need to be replaced in position. + +As for the working people at large, those without funds for their own +support, abundant employment will quickly be provided for them in the +necessary work of clearing away the debris, thus opening the way to a +resumption of business and reducing the number requiring relief. The +ukase has already been issued that all able-bodied men needing aid must +go to work or leave the city. + +This dictum of Chief of Police Dinan's will be strictly enforced. The +relief work and distribution of food and clothing are attracting a +certain element to the city which does not desire to labor, while some +already here prefer to live on the generosity of others. Chief Dinan has +determined that those who apply for relief and refuse work when it +is offered them shall leave the city or be arrested for vagrancy. The +police judges have suggested establishing a chain gang and putting all +vagrants and petty offenders at work clearing up the ruins. + +Perhaps never in the history of the city has there been so little crime +in San Francisco. With the saloons closed, Chinatown, the Barbary Coast, +and other haunts of criminals wiped out, and soldiers and marines on +almost every block in the residence districts, there have been few +crimes of any kind. It is the opinion of the police that most of the +criminal element has left the city. The saloons, in all probability will +remain closed for two more months. + + +THE PROBLEM OF THE CHINESE. + + +In conclusion of this chapter it is advisable to refer to the situation +of one of the elements of San Francisco's population, the people of +Chinatown. One of the problems facing the relief committees on both +sides of the bay is the sheltering of the Chinese. Many of them are +destitute. It has long been a question in San Francisco what should be +done with Chinatown, and moving the Chinese in the direction of Colma +has been agitated. Now they are without homes and without prospects of +procuring any. They can get no land. The limits of Oakland's Chinatown +have already been extended, and the strictest police regulations are in +force to prevent further enlargement. On this side of the bay they are +camping in open lots. Unless the government undertakes their relief, +they are in grave danger. Those who have money cannot purchase property, +as no one will sell to them. Few, however, even of the wealthiest +merchants in Chinatown, saved anything of value, for their wealth was +invested in the Oriental village which had sprung up in the heart of the +area burned. + +Yet it is the desire of the municipality not to harass this portion of +its foreign population, and the vexatious problem of placing the new +Chinatown will probably be settled to the satisfaction of the Chinese +colony. This colony diverts an important part of the trade of San +Francisco to that city, and if its members are dealt with unjustly there +is danger of losing this trade. The question is one that must be left +for the future to decide, but no doubt care will be taken that a new +Chinatown with the unsavory conditions of the old shall not arise. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +San Francisco of the Past + + +The story of San Francisco's history and tragedy appeal with +extraordinary force to the imagination of all civilized men. For several +generations the city was looked upon as an Arabian Night's dream--a +place where gold lay in the streets and joy and happiness were +unlimited. Its settlement, or, rather, its real rise as a city, was as +by magic. It was first a city of tents, of shanties, of "shacks," lying +on the rim of a great, spacious bay. Ships of all sizes and rigs brought +gold-seekers and provisions from the East, all the way round Cape Horn, +after voyages of weary months, and at San Francisco their crews deserted +and hundreds of these craft were left at their moorings to rot. Ashore +was a riot of money, prodigious extravagance, mean, shabby appointments, +sudden riches, great disappointment, revelry, improvidence and suicide. + +The streets that now lay squares from the water were then at the water's +edge and batteaus brought cargoes ashore. Long wharves--one was for +years called the Long Wharf even after there were others built much +longer--led out over the shallow water. These shallows were later filled +and streets built upon them, and upon them arose warehouses, hotels, +factories, lodging houses and business places. + +The city grew rapidly in the direction away from the bay. But in its +early days it was a city with no confidence in its own stability, and +its buildings were accordingly unstable. A few minor earthquakes shook +some of these down years ago and established in the minds of the people +a horror of earthquakes. Frame houses became the rule. + +In its ensuing life San Francisco developed the attributes of a city of +gayety tempered by business. The population, for the most part, affected +light-hearted scorn of money, or, rather, of saving money. It made +mirth of life, habituated itself to expect windfalls such as miners +and prospectors dream of, developed a moderate amount of business, and +enjoyed the day while there was sunlight and the night when there was +artificial light. The windfalls grew less frequent, mining became a +costly and scientific process, and agriculture succeeded it. But, though +it was only necessary to tickle the land with a hoe and pour water upon +the tickled spot, to have it laugh with two, three or even four harvests +a year, agriculturists continued scarce. The Chinese truck farms, some +of which lay within the city's lines, supplied the small fruits and +vegetables. Across the bay white men farmed, and grapes, fruits, +vegetables and flowers of prodigious variety and monstrous dimensions +were grown. But Eastern men came to do the farming. The Californian who +himself was an "Argonaut," or whose father was an Argonaut, found no +attractions in the steady labor of farming. + +There followed a period of depression, ascribed by many to the influx of +the Chinese and their effect upon the labor market, though the army of +the unemployed were as a rule unwilling to do the work their Celestial +rivals engaged in, that of truck farming, fruit raising, manual +household labor, wood cutting and the like. A heavy weight settled on +the city; business grew slack; the army of the unemployed, of ruined +speculators and moneyless newcomers grew steadily greater, and for an +era San Francisco saw its dark side. + +But this was not a long duration. There was fast developing a new and +important business, resulting from the development of the real resources +of the State--the fruits, particularly the citrous fruits that grew +abundantly in the warm valley. Fortunes were made in oranges, lemons, +limes, grapes, almonds and pears. Raisins, whose size defied anything +heretofore known, were made from the huge grapes that grew in the San +Joaquin Valley. Sonoma sent its grapes to be made into wine. Capital +flowed in from every side. Eastern men in search of health, others in +search of wealth, came to the Golden State. No matter who came, where +they came from, or where they were going, they spent a few days, or +many, and some money, or much, in "'Frisco." The enterprise of the +second edition pioneers quickly transformed the State and city. + + +AGRICULTURE BRINGS NEW WEALTH. + + +Luxury was startling. San Francisco's mercantile community equaled the +best, the stores and shops were as beautiful as anywhere in the +world and proportionately as well patronized. Theatres, music halls, +restaurants, hotel bars and the like were ablaze with lights at night, +and patronized by a gay throng. Sutro's bath, near the Cliff House, was +a species of entertainment unequaled anywhere. The Presidio, as the army +post is still known, as in the Spanish nomenclature, gave its drills, +regarded as free exhibitions for the people. Golden Gate Park was an +endless daily picnic ground. + +The crowds in the streets of San Francisco were noticeably well dressed +and usually gay, without that fixed, drawn, saturnine look noticeable +among the people of the East. It is doubtful whether, upon the whole, +the earnings of the San Francisco man equaled those of his Eastern +brother, but his holidays were frequent and his joys greater. The grind +of life was not yet steady--men had not become mere machines. + +The climate of California is peculiar; it is hard to give an impression +of it. In the first place, all the forces of nature work on laws of +their own in that part of California. There is no thunder or lightning; +there is no snow, except a flurry once in five or six years; there are +perhaps half a dozen nights in the winter when the thermometer drops +low enough so that there is a little film of ice on exposed water in the +morning. Neither is there any hot weather. Yet most Easterners remaining +in San Francisco for a few days remember that they were always chilly. + + +A PECULIAR YET DELIGHTFUL CLIMATE. + + +For the Gate is a big funnel, drawing in the winds and the mists which +cool off the great, hot interior valley of San Joaquin and Sacramento. +So the west wind blows steadily ten months of the year and almost all +the mornings are foggy. This keeps the temperature steady at about 55 +degrees--a little cool for comfort of an unacclimated person, especially +indoors. Californians, used to it, hardly ever think of making fires in +their houses except in the few exceptional days of the winter season, +and then they rely mainly upon fireplaces. This is like the custom of +the Venetians and the Florentines. + +But give an Easterner six months of it, and he, too, learns to exist +without a chill in a steady temperature a little lower than that to +which he is accustomed at home. After that one goes about with perfect +indifference to the temperature. Summer and winter San Francisco women +wear light tailor-made clothes, and men wear the same fall-weight suits +all the year around. + +Except for the modern buildings, the fruit of the last ten years, the +town presented at first sight to the newcomer a disreputable appearance. +Most of the buildings were low and of wood. In the middle period of the +70's, when a great part of San Francisco was building, there was some +atrocious architecture perpetrated. In that time, too, every one put +bow windows on his house, to catch all of the morning sunlight that was +coming through the fog, and those little houses, with bow windows and +fancy work all down their fronts, were characteristic of the middle +class residence districts. + +Then the Italians, who tumbled over Telegraph Hill, had built as they +listed and with little regard for streets, and their houses hung crazily +on a side hill which was little less than a precipice. For the most part +the Chinese, although they occupied an abandoned business district, had +remade the houses Chinese fashion, and the Mexicans and Spaniards had +added to their houses those little balconies without which life is not +life to a Spaniard. + +The hills are steep beyond conception. Where Vallejo Street ran up +Russian Hill it progressed for four blocks by regular steps like a +flight of stairs. + +With these hills, with the strangeness of the architecture, and with the +green gray tinge over everything, the city fell always into vistas and +pictures, a setting for the romance which hung over everything, which +has always hung over life in San Francisco since the padres came and +gathered the Indians about Mission Dolores. + +And it was a city of romance and a gateway to adventure. It opened out +on the mysterious Pacific, the untamed ocean, and most of China, Japan, +the South Sea Islands, Lower California, the west coast of Central +America, Australia that came to this country passed in through the +Golden Gate. There was a sprinkling, too, of Alaska and Siberia. +From his windows on Russian Hill one saw always something strange and +suggestive creeping through the mists of the bay. It would be a South +Sea Island brig, bringing in copra, to take out cottons and idols; a +Chinese junk with fan-like sails, back from an expedition after sharks' +livers; an old whaler, which seemed to drip oil, back from a year of +cruising in the Arctic. Even, the tramp windjammers were deep-chested +craft, capable of rounding the Horn or of circumnavigating the globe; +and they came in streaked and picturesque from their long voyaging. + + +A MIXTURE OF RACES. + + +In the orange colored dawn which always comes through the mists of that +bay, the fishing fleet would crawl in under triangular lateen sails, for +the fishermen of San Francisco Bay are all Neapolitans, who have brought +their costumes and sail with lateen rigs shaped like the ear of a horse +when the wind fills them and stained an orange brown. + +The "smelting pot of the races" Stevenson called the region along the +water front, for here the people of all these craft met, Italians, +Greeks, Russians, Lascars, Kanakas, Alaska Indians, black Gilbert +Islanders, Spanish-Americans, wanderers and sailors from all the world, +who came in and out from among the queer craft to lose themselves in the +disreputable shanties and saloons. The Barbary Coast was a veritable bit +of Satan's realm. The place was made up of three solid blocks of dance +halls, for the delectation of the sailors of the world. Within those +streets of peril the respectable never set foot; behind the swinging +doors of those saloons anything might be happening, crime was as common +here as drink, and much went on of which the law was blankly ignorant. + +Not far removed from this haunt of crime was the world-famous Chinatown, +a district six blocks long and two wide, and housing when at its fullest +some 30,000 Chinese. Old business houses at first, the new inmates added +to them, rebuilt them, ran out their own balconies and entrances, and +gave them that feeling of huddled irregularity which makes all Chinese +built dwellings fall naturally into pictures. Not only this, they +burrowed to a depth equal to three stories under the ground, and through +this ran passages in which the Chinese transacted their dark and devious +affairs--as the smuggling of opium, the traffic in slave girls and the +settlement of their difficulties, by murder if they saw fit. The law was +powerless to prevent or discover and convict the murderers. + +Chinatown is gone; the Barbary Coast is gone; the haunts of crime have +been swept by the devouring flames, and if the citizens can prevent +they will never be restored. The old San Francisco is dead. The gayest, +lightest-hearted, most pleasure-loving city of this continent, and +in many ways the most interesting and romantic, is a horde of huddled +refugees living among ruins. It may rebuild; it probably will; but those +who have known that peculiar city by the Golden Gate and have caught its +flavor of the Arabian Nights feel that it can never be the same. When it +rises out of its ashes it will probably doubtless resemble other modern +cities and have lost its old strange flavor. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Life in the Metropolis of the Pacific + + +Brought up in a bountiful country, where no one really has to work very +hard to live, nurtured on adventure, scion of a free and merry stock, +the real, native Californian is a distinctive type; as far from the +Easterner in psychology as the extreme Southern is from the Yankee. He +is easy going, witty, hospitable, lovable, inclined to be unmoral rather +than immoral in his personal habits, and above all easy to meet and to +know. + +Above all there is an art sense all through the populace which sets it +off from any other part of the country. This sense is almost Latin in +its strength, and the Californian owes it to the leaven of Latin blood. + + +THE 'FRISCO RESTAURANTS. + + +With such a people life was always gay. If they did not show it on the +streets, as do the people of Paris, it was because the winds made +open cafes disagreeable at all seasons of the year. The gayety went on +indoors or out on the hundreds of estates that fringed the city. It was +noted for its restaurants. Perhaps people who cared not how they spent +their money could get the best they wished, but for a dollar down to as +low as fifteen cents the restaurants furnished the best fare to be had +anywhere at the price. + +The country all about produced everything that a cook needs, and that +in abundance--the bay was an almost untapped fish-pond, the fruit +farms came up to the very edge of the town, and the surrounding country +produced in abundance fine meats, all cereals and all vegetables. + +But the chefs who came from France in the early days and liked this land +of plenty were the head and front of it. They passed their art to other +Frenchmen or to the clever Chinese. Most of the French chefs at the +biggest restaurants were born in Canton, China. Later the Italians, +learning of this country where good food is appreciated, came and +brought their own style. Householders always dined out one or two +nights of the week, and boarding houses were scarce, for the unattached +preferred the restaurants. The eating was usually better than the +surroundings. + + +THE FAMOUS POODLE DOG. + + +Meals that were marvels were served in tumbledown little hotels. Most +famous of all the restaurants was the Poodle Dog. There have been no +less than four restaurants of this name, beginning with a frame shanty +where, in the early days, a prince of French cooks used to exchange +recipes for gold dust. Each succeeding restaurant of the name has moved +farther downtown; and the recent Poodle Dog stands--or stood--on the +edge of the Tenderloin in a modern five-story building. And it typified +a certain spirit that there was in San Francisco. + +On the ground floor was a public restaurant where there was served the +best dollar dinner on earth. It ranked with the best and the others were +in San Francisco. Here, especially on Sunday night, almost everybody +went to vary the monotony of home cooking. Every one who was any one in +the town could be seen there off and on. It was perfectly respectable. A +man might take his wife and daughter there. + +On the second floor there were private dining rooms, and to dine there, +with one or more of the opposite sex, was risque but not especially +terrible. But the third floor--and the fourth floor--and the fifth! The +elevator man of the Poodle Dog, who had held the job for many years and +never spoke unless spoken to, wore diamonds and was a heavy investor in +real estate. + +There were others as famous in their way--Zinkaud's, where, at one time, +every one went after the theatre, and Tate's, which has lately bitten +into that trade; the Palace Grill, much like the grills of Eastern +hotels, except for the price; Delmonico's, which ran the Poodle Dog neck +and neck in its own line, and many others, humbler, but great at the +price. + + +THE BOHEMIAN CLUB. + + +To the visitor who came to see the city and who put himself in the hands +of one of its well-to-do citizens for the purpose, the few days that +followed were apt to be a whirl of mirth and sight-seeing, made up of +breakfasts, luncheons, dinners, drives, little trips across the bay, +dashes down the peninsula to the polo and country clubs, hours spent +in Bohemia, trips around the world among all the races of the habitable +globe, all of whom had their colonies in this most cosmopolitan of +American cities. + +In club life the Bohemian stood first and foremost, the famous club +whose meeting place, with all its art treasures, is now a heap of ashes, +but which was formerly 'Frisco's head-centre of mirth. Founded by Henry +George, the world-famous single tax advocate, when he was an impecunious +scribbler on the San Francisco Post, it grew to be the choicest place of +resort in the Pacific metropolis. + +Within its walls the possession of dollars was a bar rather than an +"open sesame," the master key to its circles being the knack of telling +a good story or the possession of quick and telling wit. Fun-making was +the rule there, and the only way to escape being made its victim was +the power to deliver a ready and witty retort. In this home of good +fellowship all the artists, actors, wits, literati, fiddlers, pianists +and bon vivants were members. Here an impoverished painter could square +his grill and buffet account by giving the club a daub to hang on its +walls. Here in days of old the Sheriff used to camp regularly once a +month until the members rustled up the money to replevin the furniture. +But these days of poverty passed away, and in later years the club came +to know prosperity beyond the dreams of the good fellows who founded it. + + +THE WICKEDEST AND GAYEST. + + +The Bohemian is gone, but the spirit that founded and made it still +exists, and we may look to see it rise, like the phoenix, from its +ashes. + +San Francisco was often called the wickedest city in America. It was +hardly that, it was simply the gayest. It was not the home of purity; +neither is any other city. What other cities do behind closed doors San +Francisco did not hesitate to do in the open. + +In Eastern cities the police have driven vice into tenements, lodging +houses and apartments. San Francisco did not do that. She had certain +quarters where, according to unwritten law, vice was allowed to abide, +and she did not try to hide the fact that it could be found there. She +was not secretly immoral; she was frankly unmoral. + +She did not believe in driving her vice from the open where it could be +recognized and controlled--prevented from doing any more harm than it +was possible to stop--into districts of the city where good people dwell +and purity would feel its contaminating influence. There were regions in +which the respectable never set foot, haunts of acknowledged vice which +for virtue to enter would be to lose caste. + +As for its gayety, San Francisco was proud of the reputation of being +the Paris of America. Its women were beautiful, and they knew it. They +liked to adorn their beauty with fine clothes and peacock along the +streets on matinee days. If you asked a San Francisco girl why she wore +such expensive clothes, she would say, frankly, "Because I like to have +the men admire me," and she would see no harm in saying it. There was +very little sham about the San Francisco women. Their men understood +them and worshiped them. They bore themselves with the freedom that +was theirs by right of their heritage of open-air living, the Bohemian +atmosphere they breathed, the unconventional character of their +surroundings. Their figures were strong and well moulded, their faces +bloomed with health like the roses in their gardens. They drew the wine +of laughter from their balmy California air. Sorrow and trouble sat +lightly on their shoulders. + +There was no end of enjoyments. After the theatre they would go to +Zinkaud's, Tate's, the Palace or some other of the many places of +resort, for a snack to eat and a spell under the music, which was to be +heard everywhere. + +Another part of the gay life of the city was for a private dance to keep +going all night in a fashionable residence, and at daylight, instead of +everybody going to bed, to jump into automobiles or carriages or take +the trolley cars and whizz off to the beach for a dip in the cold salt +water pool at Sutro's baths, and then, with ravenous appetites, sit down +on the Cliff House balcony to an open-air breakfast while watching the +ships sail in and out at the Golden Gate and hearing the seals barking +on the rocks. After that home and to rest. + + +AN ALL-NIGHT TOWN. + + +The city never went to sleep altogether. It was "an all-night" town. Few +of the restaurants ever closed, none of the saloons did. Always during +the whole twenty-four hours of the day there was "something doing" in +the Tenderloin. No hour of the night was ever free of revelry. It was +marvelous how they kept it up. The average San Franciscan could stay +awake all night at a card game, take a cold wash and a good breakfast +in the morning, and go straight downtown to business and feel none the +worse for it. + +It was a gay town, a captivating, piquant, audacious, but not especially +wicked city. A Frenchy, a risque city it might justly have been called, +but it was not wicked in the sense that sordid vice, vulgar crime and +wretched squalor constitute wickedness. + +It was a lovable place that everybody longed to get back to, once +having been there. A woman, leaving it for years, watched it from the +ferryboat, and, weeping, said, "San Francisco, oh, my San Francisco, I +am leaving thee." + +Will those who left it after the fire ever get back to their old +city again? We have already expressed our doubt of this. The old San +Francisco is probably gone, never to return. The new San Francisco will +be a cleaner, saner and safer city, destitute of its rookeries, its +tenements and its Chinatown. It will be a greater and more sightly +city than that of the past, but to those who knew and loved the old San +Francisco--San Francisco the captivating, the maddest, gayest, liveliest +and most rollicking in the country--there must be something impressibly +sad to its old inhabitants in the reflection that the new city of the +Golden Gate can never be quite the same as the haven of their early +affections. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Plans to Rebuild San Francisco. + + +Almost as soon as the terrible conflagration had been checked and gotten +under control by the heroic efforts of the soldiers and firemen, a +little group of the leading citizens of the desolated city had met +in the office of Mayor Eugene E. Schmitz and had begun to plan the +restoration of their municipality. It was an admirable courage, bred in +the stock of those men who in 1849 left comfortable homes in the East to +seek their fortune in the Golden State, that inspired the loyal leaders +of the present day citizens to provide with far-seeing eyes for +the rebuilding of their homes and business houses with more orderly +precision after the fire than had been possible during the hustle of +early days in a new city. + +The old San Francisco was no more, and never could be recalled save as +a memory. The local color, atmosphere, that which might be termed the +feeling of the old city, vanished with the clustered houses, as rich +in tradition as the ancient missions in whose cloisters worshiped the +Spanish padre "before the Gringo came." Heartrending as it was to the +citizens who loved their homes and haunts to see them disappear into +smoke, there was an attraction about the city of the Golden Gate which +endeared it to all Americans. + +One of San Francisco's charms was in its defiance of precedent. There +were hills to be conquered, and San Francisco' s expanding traffic +hurled itself at the face of them. It went up and up, with no thought +of finding a way around. So it happened that on some of the streets the +steepness was too great for horses. In the centre there are cable roads, +and on either side of the rails grass grows through the cobbles. The +earlier structures on the level were put together in haste. For the most +part they remained essentially unchanged until they fell with a +crash. True, they had become stained by time, unkempt, dwarfed by new +neighbors, but nobody desired to efface them. Away from the business +section houses appeared on the various hills, perched precariously near +the brink; houses reached by long flights and grown over with roses. The +bathing fogs touched them with gray. Moss grew on their roofs. In the +little, lofty yards calla lilies bloomed with the profusion of weeds. +The natural beauty of the site, the quaintness of the commercial and +social development of which it became the centre, attracted the poet +and the artist. It incited them to paint the attractions and to sing the +praises of their chosen home. + +But the loyal sons of those brave pioneers who founded the metropolis +were not in the least daunted by the problem of raising from its ruins +the whole vast number of dwellings and business houses. The leaders of +the people, the men who had been identified with San Francisco since +its early days, and whose great fortunes were almost swept away by the +cataclysm, lent courage to all the wearied thousands by firm statements +of their optimism. + +James D. Phelan, former Mayor of the city and one of its richest +capitalists, immediately announced his intention of rebuilding his +properties at Market and O'Farrell Streets, in the heart of the ruined +business district. William H. Crocker, one of the heaviest losers, a +nephew of Charles Crocker, who founded the Central Pacific Railroad with +Collis P. Huntington, Leland Stanford and others, stated emphatically +that he would put his shoulder to the wheel. On receiving the first news +of the disaster, and before he knew what his losses would amount to, he +said: + +"Mark my words, San Francisco will arise from these ashes a greater and +more beautiful city than ever. I don't take any stock in the belief of +some people that investors and residents will be panicky and afraid to +build up again. This calamity, terrible as it is, will mean nothing less +than a new and grander San Francisco. It is preposterous to suggest the +abandonment of the city. It is the natural metropolis of the Pacific +coast. God made it so. D. O. Mills, the Spreckels family, everybody I +know, have determined to rebuild and to invest more than ever before. +Burnham, the great Chicago architect, has been at work for a year or +more on plans to beautify San Francisco. Terrible as this destruction +has been, it serves to clear the way for the carrying out of these +plans. Why, even now we are figuring on rebuilding. More than that, I am +confident that, except for what fire has absolutely laid waste, it +will be found that the buildings are less injured than was supposed. +Plastering, ornamental work, glass and more or less loose material has +been shaken down, but the framework, I am sure, will be found intact in +many big buildings." + +D. Ogden Mills, of New York, who owned enormous properties in the +stricken city, was equally confident. + +"We will go ahead," said he, "and build the city, and build it so that +earthquakes will not shake it down and so fire will not destroy it, and +we will have a water system which will enable us to draw water from the +sea for fire extinguishing service and other municipal purposes. We will +thus have less to fear from the destruction of the land mains. The whole +point with all of us who own property down there is that we have to +build. To let it lie idle, piled with its ruins, would mean the throwing +away of money, and I am sure none of us intends to do that. The city +will go up like Baltimore did, and Galveston, and Charleston, and +Chicago, and there will be no lack of capital. California spirit and +California enterprise, which are always associated with the State of +California, will rise superior to this calamity." + +George Crocker, elder brother of William H. Crocker; Archer M. +Huntington, son of Collis P. Huntington; Mrs. Herman Oelrichs, Mrs. W. +K. Vanderbilt, Jr., members of the wealthy Spreckels family and others +all expressed, before the great conflagration had ceased burning, the +confident expectation that the city would rise, Phoenix-like, from its +ashes and become more beautiful and prosperous than it had ever been in +the past. + +So complete was the calamity that the Government of the United States +lent a hand in the earliest work of restoration. On April 20th, two days +after the earthquake, Congress took immediate steps to repair or replace +all the public buildings damaged or destroyed in San Francisco. The +willingness of Congress to assist those in need of work by immediately +beginning the reconstruction of the Federal buildings was indicated +when Senator Scott, chairman of the Committee on Public Buildings and +Grounds, introduced a resolution calling upon the Secretary of the +Treasury for full information as to the exact condition of the various +government buildings in San Francisco, and instructing him to submit an +estimate showing the aggregate sum needed to repair or rebuild them. +The resolution suggested that steel frames be used in any new buildings. +This resolution was adopted. It was soon learned that the new Post +Office, the Mint and the old Customs House were practically undamaged. +The branch of the United States Mint, on Fifth Street, and the new Post +Office at Seventh and Mission Streets, were striking examples of the +superiority of workmanship put into Federal buildings. The old Mint +building, surrounded by a wide space of pavement, was absolutely +unharmed. The Mint made preparations to resume business at once. +The Post Office building also was virtually undamaged by fire. The +earthquake shock did some damage to the different entrances to the +building, but the walls were left standing in good condition. President +Roosevelt also sent a message to Congress asking that $300,000 be at +once appropriated to finish the Mare Island Navy Yard, in order that +employment might be given to the many workmen who were in extreme need +of money for the necessities of life. + +It was a most fortunate circumstance that the property records in the +Hall of Records were unharmed either by earthquake or fire. Endless +disputes and litigation over the questions of ownerships would +undoubtedly have otherwise impeded the work of those sincerely +anxious to repair their shattered fortunes and opened the way for the +unscrupulous to take unfair advantage of the general chaos. + +But the temper of the people was such that only the boldest would have +dared to use trickery for his own ends. Every man stood at the side of +his neighbor working for himself and for the good of all. Before the +embers were cool the owners of some of the damaged skyscrapers gave +commands to proceed instantly with their reconstruction. The Spreckels +Building, the Hayward Building, the St. Francis Hotel, the Merchants' +Exchange and structures that permitted it were ordered rushed into shape +as quickly as possible. And already contracts had been drawn up +for other steel-frame buildings to be erected with all speed. Many +substantial business men and property owners of San Francisco were in +consultation with the architects within a few days. While the work of +clearing away the debris went forward, a corps of draughtsmen was busily +occupied preparing plans for the new buildings to adorn the city. + +Mayor Schmitz telegraphed to the Mayors of all leading cities, inquiring +how many architects or architectural draughtsmen could be induced to +leave for San Francisco at once, and hundreds of young men immediately +responded to the call. Experts of the several great contracting +companies hurried to the scene and were ready to deposit material and +labor on the ground for the work of restoration. Daniel H. Burnham, +a leading architect of Chicago, who had previously drawn plans for +beautifying the city, was summoned to superintend the work. + +All the horses, mules and wagons obtainable were immediately pressed +into service to remove the debris and clear the streets so that traffic +could be resumed. Within a week after the first earthquake shock trolley +cars were running in the principal streets, telephone communication had +been re-established in the most needed quarters, electric lights were +available and business had begun again on a limited scale. + +Yet, in spite of the indomitable courage of the citizens and the +efficient labor of the public officers and the utility companies, an +enormous amount of work remained. Virtually every bank in San Francisco +had to be rebuilt. Only the Market Street National Bank was left nearly +undamaged. An official list of the condition of the school buildings +throughout the city showed that twenty-nine school buildings were +destroyed and that forty-four were partially, at least, spared. Many +of the latter were so damaged that they had to be either pulled down or +thoroughly repaired, and arrangements were made to resume the short +term in tents erected in the parks, where thousands of the homeless had +already found temporary shelter. With these two vital classes of public +institutions prepared to care for the demands about to be made on them, +confidence was not lacking in other parts. Most of the foundries and +factories near the water front and south of Market Street immediately +called in all their employees and began to clear away the wreckage +and make ready for continuing business. Great credit is due to the +newspapers, nearly all of which continued their daily issues without +interruption, although their buildings, with offices and printing +plants, were entirely destroyed by the flames which followed the +earthquake. Those whose premises were early threatened with destruction +betook themselves to Oakland, seven miles distant across the bay, and +published their sheets from the establishments of the Oakland papers. A +thorough inspection shows that comparatively little damage was done in +the vicinity of the Cliff. The Cliff House, which was at first reported +to have been hurled into the sea, not only stood, but the damage +sustained by it from the earthquake was slight. The famous Sutro baths, +located near the Cliff House, with the hundreds of thousands of square +feet of glass roofing, also were practically unharmed. Only a few of +the windows in the Sutro baths and the Cliff House were broken, and +the lofty chimney of the pumping plant of the former establishment +was cracked only a trifle. When the situation was finally summed +up, however, nearly three-fourths of the city had to be rebuilt or +remodeled, and the cost of doing this was enough to appal the strongest +hearts. + +Financially the prospect was encouraging. Not a bank lost the contents +of its fireproof vaults and remained practically unharmed, so far as +credit was concerned. + +For a number of days it was impossible to open any strong boxes on +account of the great heat which the thick walls retained, and this +naturally caused some embarrassment and lack of ready money. Nearly all +of them, however, had strong connections in Eastern cities and large +balances to their credit in other banks of America and Europe. They +were also favored by the fact that the United States Mint and the +Sub-Treasury held between them some $245,000,000 in ready money. The +Secretary of the Treasury immediately deposited $10,000,000 to the +credit of the local banks, and financiers of the great business centres +of the country added to public confidence by prompt statements that they +would facilitate the reconstruction of the city by a liberal advancement +of funds. + +One prominent Eastern capitalist expressed the general conviction in the +following words: + +"No great city, unless it dried up entirely from lack of commercial life +blood, was ever annihilated by such a disaster as that of San Francisco. +Pompeii and Herculaneum were not great cities in the first place, and in +the second, they were completely covered, smothered as it were, with the +ashes and molten lava of the adjoining volcano, and nearly all of +their inhabitants perished. If it be admitted that three-fourths of the +superstructures, so to speak, of San Francisco, estimated according to +valuation, is destroyed, we have yet the fact remaining that the lives +of only about one four-hundredth of its population have been lost. + +"San Francisco was not merely land and the buildings erected upon +it, but it was people, and one of the most active, most hopeful, most +vivacious human communities on the face of the earth. You cannot long +discourage such a community, unless you wipe out three-fourths of +its members. Will San Francisco rise again? Most certainly it will. +Galveston and Baltimore, not to mention Charleston, Boston and Chicago, +showed the spirit of material resurrection in American communities, +sore-smitten by calamity. After Galveston had been made a desert of sand +and debris, there were predictions that it would never rise again. What +was the outcome? A finer Galveston than before, and finer than many +years of slow improvement in the natural course would have made it. +Baltimore is busier commercially than it was before the great fire. + +"San Francisco is exceedingly fortunate in the fact that its moneyed +institutions remain strong, with abundant supplies of funds. It is +true that many of them undoubtedly hold large numbers of real estate +mortgages as securities for loans, and that much of the property thus +represented is now in ashes. But with care and an accommodating spirit +practically all of those mortgaged can be so nursed that they will be +made absolutely good. The banks will be found to be only too eager to +afford new loans which will enable realty owners to rebuild. You will +see San Francisco rise a more splendid city than ever, and better +prepared to resist future earthquake shocks. Because it has had this +dreadful visitation is no reason for apprehension that another like it +will come within the life of the present generation, or two or three +after. The destruction of Lisbon in the middle of the eighteenth +century and its subsequent immunity from seismic damage is a reassuring +example." + +The municipality was in excellent financial condition to meet and rise +above the extraordinary needs of the situation. It had a bonded debt +of only $4,245,100, while its realty valuation was $402,127,261 and +its personalty $122,258,406. The question of issuing further amounts +of bonds was therefore one of the first measures considered by Mayor +Schmitz and his co-workers, and an appeal was made to the Federal +Government to guarantee the proposed loans, so that the most urgent work +which lay in the city's province could be undertaken at once and without +an excessive burden of interest. + +The vast insurance loss was divided among 107 companies, and, though +only a little more than half the damage was covered by policies, the +total swelled toward the colossal sum of $150,000,000. Several of the +largest companies were seriously crippled by the disaster and some were +forced into liquidation. To the great relief of the entire country, +nevertheless, the financial situation was not severely affected, and +there was every reason to believe that the great bulk of the insurance +would be paid. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +The Earthquake Wave Felt Round the Earth. + + +The outbreak of earth forces at San Francisco did not stand alone. There +were others elsewhere at nearly the same time, the whole seeming to +indicate a general disturbance in the interior of the earth's crust. +Some scientists, indeed, declared that no possible connection could +exist between the eruption of Mount Vesuvius and the earthquake at San +Francisco, but others were inclined to view certain facts in regard to +recent seismic and volcanic activity as, to say the least, suggestive. + +As to the actual cause of the California earthquake, the wisest +confession we can make is that of ignorance, there being almost as +little known as to the origin, period and coming of earthquakes as when +Pliny wrote 1,800 years ago. The Roman observer knew that the tremor +passed like a wave through the surface of the earth; he knew that it +had a given direction, and he knew that certain regions were rife with +seismic disturbance. More he could not say, and when this is said all +has been said that is known to-day. + +Setting aside these general considerations, let us return to the +question of the disaster at San Francisco on that fatal morning of April +18th. The shock did not come unexpectedly. A month previous there had +been a severe earthquake in the Island of Formosa, and many lives were +lost there, while an enormous amount of damage was done. Only a few days +before the event in San Francisco there was another earthquake in the +same island. Still greater havoc was caused by it than by the earthquake +in March, but fewer lives were lost, the reason being that the people +were warned in time. Early in April the eruption of Mount Vesuvius +reached its height and devastated the country around the volcano, +covering an enormous territory with ashes, and caused the loss of +hundreds of lives. + +On Tuesday night, April 17th, word was received from Piatigorsk, +Circassia, that there had been two severe earthquake shocks the previous +day in Northern Caucasia. The same night a telegram from Madrid said +that the newspapers there reported that the long-dormant volcano on +Palma, the largest of the Canary Islands, was showing signs of eruption, +columns of smoke issuing from the crater. + + +WIDESPREAD EARTH TREMORS. + + +While scientists as a rule doubt that there was any connection between +these volcanic phenomena and the earthquake at San Francisco, yet +reports from the Mount Weather observation station in Virginia, a few +miles from Washington, show that the eruptions of Vesuvius acted on +the magnetic instruments by electro-magnetic waves in such a way as +to disturb the electrical potentials at that place. Be this as it may, +there is one remarkable circumstance in regard to all this activity. All +the places mentioned--Formosa, Southern Italy, Caucasia, and the Canary +Islands--lie within a belt bounded by lines a little north of the +fortieth parallel and a little south of the thirtieth parallel. San +Francisco is just south of the fortieth parallel, while Naples is just +north of it. The latitude of Calabria, where the terrible earthquakes +occurred in 1905, is the same as that of the territory affected by the +recent earthquake in the United States. This may or may not have some +bearing on the question. + +Whatever be thought of all this, one thing is certain, the earthquake +which laid San Francisco in ruins was felt the world over, wherever +there were instruments in position to detect and record it. The +seismograph in the government observatory at Washington showed that +the first wave, on April 18th, came at 8.19--equivalent to 5.19 at San +Francisco; that at 8.25 there was a stronger wave motion, and that from +8.32 to 8.35 the recording pen was carried off the paper. The vibrations +did not entirely cease until 12.35 P. M., during this period there +having been nearly half an inch of to and fro motion in the surface of +the earth. + + +RECORDS OF FOREIGN OBSERVATIONS. + + +From far away New Zealand, on the same date, the government seismograph +at the capital, Wellington, recorded seismic waves that apparently +passed round the earth five times at intervals of about four hours each. + +Across the Atlantic, at Heidelberg, in Germany, the records showed +vibrations lasting one hour. At Sarayevo, in Bosnia, there was a sharp +shock at 11 A. M., undulating from west to east. At Funfkirchen, in +Hungary, at Laibach, in Austria, in the Isle of Wight, off the coast +of England, and all through Italy, from north to south, the shocks were +felt. + +At Hancock, Mich., a shock was felt on April 19th a mile below the +surface in the Quincy mine of such severity that one man was killed and +four injured by a fall of rock loosened by the trembling of the earth. +There is no evidence, however, that this had any connection with the +California disaster, the dates not coinciding. + +Turning to the Far East, across the Pacific, seismographs in the +Imperial University of Tokio showed that the earthquake was felt there +eleven minutes later than in San Francisco, and similar instruments in +Manila detected the arrival of the seismic waves twenty minutes after +the San Francisco shock. In this there was a slight difference in time +compared with Tokio, but, considering the distance, near enough to prove +that the disturbances came from the same source. + +Not until the day following was any noticeable disturbance felt in +Honolulu, but on April 19th shocks were plainly felt for six minutes and +the water in the harbor rose rapidly. Panic seemed imminent just before +the shocks subsided. While earthquakes are by no means infrequent in +these islands, this was more severe than any recorded in recent years, +causing buildings to sway to and fro and partly demolishing some of +frail construction. + +If, as the majority of men qualified to discuss earthquakes seem to +think, the San Francisco earthquake had no connection with volcanic +action, but was caused by what is technically known as a "fault" in the +formation of the crust of the earth, it seems easy enough to account +for these wave motions travelling round the earth. How widely this may +really have made itself felt it is not possible to say. Several of the +great earthquakes in Japan have been recorded in the seismographs of +the observatories on every continent and in Australia, showing that in +severe disturbances of this kind the whole surface strata quiver, alike +under the oceans and over the continents and islands. At the time of a +shock, of course, half of the world is in darkness and asleep. This is +taken to account for the fact that so far only a few observatories have +reported catching the San Francisco vibrations. + +The instruments invented for the recording of the motions of the +earth's crust are looked upon by scientists as the most delicate of all +machines. So highly sensitive are they, indeed, that the very slightest +vibratory motion is recorded perfectly. Even the tread of feet cannot +escape this instrument if sufficient to cause a vibration. + +There are three classes of instruments for the automatic recording +of earth tremors, each with its own particular function. First is the +seismoscope, which will merely detect and record the fact that there +has been such a tremor. Some of these are so equipped as to indicate the +time of the disturbance. + +Second, is the seismometer, the function of which is to measure the +maximum force of the shock, either with or without an indication of its +direction. The third instrument is the seismograph, which is so arranged +that it will accurately record the number, succession, direction, +amplitude and period of successive oscillations. This last instrument is +by far the most delicate of the three. + +In the construction of this earthquake recording machine the maker must +so suspend a heavy body that when its normal position is disturbed in +the most infinitesimal degree no reactionary force will be developed +tending to restore it to its original position. The inventor has never +been found who could accomplish this suspension of a body to perfection. +The seismograph of to-day, however, has reached a stage of perfection +where close approximations are obtained in the records made. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Vesuvius Devastates the Region of Naples. + + +We have in other chapters described the terrible work of Mount Vesuvius +in the past, from the far-off era of the destruction of Pompeii down to +the end of the last century. There comes before us now another frightful +eruption, one of the greatest in its history, that of 1906. For thirty +years before this outbreak the mighty volcano had been comparatively +quiet, rarely ceasing, indeed, to smoke and fume, but giving little +indication of the vast forces buried in its heart. It showed some +sympathy with Mont Pelee in 1902, and continued restless after that +time, but it was not until about the middle of February, 1906, that it +became threatening, lava beginning to overflow from the crater and make +its lurid way down the mountain's side. + +It was in the middle of the first week of April that these indications +rose to the danger point, the flow of lava suddenly swelling from a +rivulet to a river, pouring in a gleaming flood over the crater's rim, +and meeting the other streams that came streaming down the volcano's +rugged flank. While this went on the mountain remained comparatively +quiet, there being no explosions, though a huge cloud of volcanic ash +and cinders rose high in the air until it hung over the crater in the +shape of an enormous pine tree, while from it a shower of dust and sand, +soon to become terrible, began to descend upon the surrounding fields +and towns. + +Dangerous as is Vesuvius at any time, the people of the vicinity dare +its perils for the allurement of its fertile soil. A ring of populous +villages encircles it, flourishing vineyards and olive groves extend +on all sides, and the hand of industry does not hesitate to attack its +threatening flanks. The intervals between its death-dealing throes are +so long that the peasants are always ready to dare destruction for the +hope of winning the means of life from its soil. + + +THE RIVERS OF LAVA. + + +All this locality was now a field of terror and death. Down on the +vineyards and villages poured the smothering ashes in an ever increasing +rain; toward them slowly and threateningly crawled the fiery serpents +of the lava streams; and from their homes fled thousands of the +terror-stricken people, frantic with horror and dismay. A number of +populous villages were threatened by the lurid lava streams, the most +endangered being Bosco Trecase, with its 10,000 inhabitants. Toward this +devoted town poured steadily the irresistible flood of molten rock. The +soldiers who had been hurried to the front sought to divert its flow by +digging a wide ditch across its course and throwing up a high bank of +earth, but they worked in vain. The demon of destruction was not to be +robbed of its prey. The liquid stream advanced like a colossal serpent +of fire, turning its head like a crawling snake to the right and left, +but keeping steadily on toward the fated town. The ditch was filled; the +bank gave way; the first house was reached and burst into flames; the +creeping stream of fire pushed on to the next houses in its way; only +then did the despairing people desert their homes and flee for their +lives, carrying with them the little they could snatch of their +treasured possessions. + +F. Marion Crawford, the novelist, who was present at this scene, thus +describes the flight of the terrified people: + +"I saw men, women and children and infants, whose mothers carried them +at the breast or in their aprons, fleeing in an endless procession. +Dogs, too, and cats were on the carts, and sometimes even chickens, tied +together by the legs, and piles of mattresses and pillows and shapeless +bundles of clothes. All were white with dust. Under the lurid glare I +saw one old woman lying on her back across a cart, ghastly white and, +if not dead already of fear and heat and suffocation, certainly almost +gone. We ourselves could hardly breathe." + +It was on Saturday, the 7th, that Bosco Trecase became the prey of the +river of molten rock. During that night and the following day the crisis +of the eruption came. The observatory on the mountain side was occupied +by Professor Matteucci, his assistant, Professor Perret, of New York, +and two domestics, all others having been sent away. Their description +of the scene in which they found themselves is vividly picturesque. At +midnight the situation in the observatory was terrible. The forces +of the earthquake were let loose and the ground rocked so that it +was almost impossible to stand. The roaring of the main crater was +deafening, while the volcano poured forth its contents like a fountain, +and the electric display was terrifying, constant claps of thunder +following the lurid flashes of lightning, which gave the sky a blood-red +hue. + +Shortly after three o'clock in the morning the explosive energy of the +mighty mass culminated. The whole cone burst open with a tremendous +earthquake shock, from the heart of the recently silent mountain came a +deafening roar, and red-hot rocks, like the balls from nature's mighty +artillery, were hurled a half mile into the air, while a dense mass of +ashes and sand was flung to three or four times this height. All the +next day the terrible detonation kept up, and a hail of bullet-like +stones poured downward from the skies. Rarely has a more terrible Sunday +been seen. It was as if the demons of earth and air were let loose and +were seeking to destroy man and his puny works. + + +THE CRISIS OF THE ERUPTION. + + +This frightful explosion of the 8th of April was the worst of the +dreadful display of volcanic forces, but the work kept up with +diminishing intensity much of the following week. The ashes and cinders +continued to pour down in suffocating showers, covering the ground to +a depth of four or five feet in the vicinity of the volcano and to a +considerable depth at Naples, ten miles away. The sun disappeared +behind the thick cloud that filled the air, and the scene resembled that +described by Pliny more than eighteen hundred years before. + +Of Bosco Trecase nothing was left but the large stone church and a few +houses. Another river of lava reached the outskirts of Torre del Greco, +and a third stopped at the cemetery of Torre Annunziata. Those towns +escaped, but thousands of acres of fertile cultivated land, with farm +houses and stock, were destroyed. The peninsular railway up the mountain +was ruined and the large hotel burned. One writer tells the following +tale of what he saw on that fatal Saturday and Sunday: + +"On the road I met hundreds of families in flight, carrying their few +miserable possessions. The spectacle of collapsing carts and fainting +women was frequently seen. When one reached the lava stream a stupefying +spectacle presented itself. From a point on the mountain between the +towns I saw four rivers of molten fire, one of which, 200 feet wide +and over 40 deep, was moving slowly and majestically onward, devouring +vineyards and olive groves. I witnessed the destruction of a farm house +enveloped on three sides by lava. Immediately overhead the great crater +was belching incandescent rock and scoria for an incredible distance. +The whole scene was wreathed with flames, and a perpetual roar was +heard. Ever and anon the cone of the volcano was encircled with vivid +electric phenomena, amid which a downpour of liquid fire on all sides of +the crater was revealed in magnificent awfulness. In the evening there +was a frightful shock of earthquake, which was repeated at two o'clock +on Sunday morning. Simultaneously the lava streams redoubled their +onrush, and men, women and children fled precipitately toward the sea. +The lava had invaded the road behind them." + + +A REIGN OF TERROR. + + +The great loss of life was due to the vast fall of ashes, which crushed +in hundreds of roofs and buried the occupants within the ruins of their +homes. In all the neighboring towns buildings were destroyed in great +numbers, an early estimate being that fully 5,000 houses had been partly +crushed or utterly destroyed. On the Ottajano side of the mountain, +where the ashes fell in greatest profusion, all the houses of the +villages were damaged, and Ottajano itself was left a wreck, several +hundred dead bodies being taken from its ruins. In Naples the ash fall +was so incessant that those who could afford it wore automobile coats, +caps and goggles, while the people generally sought to save their +eyes and faces by the aid of paper masks and umbrellas. The drivers of +trolley cars were obliged to wear masks of some transparent material +under the vizors of their caps. + + +DISASTERS AT SAN GIUSEPPE AND NAPLES. + + +There were two special disasters attended by serious loss of life. On +the 9th, while a congregation of two hundred or more were attending mass +in the church at San Giuseppe, the roof crushed in from the weight of +ashes upon it and fell upon the worshippers below, few or none of whom +escaped unhurt. Fifty-four dead bodies were taken from the ruins and a +large number were severely injured. The Mayor of the town was dismissed +from his office for leaving his post of duty in the face of danger. + +The second disaster, one of the same character, took place at Naples. +This was on Tuesday, April 10th. Just previous to it the people had been +marching in religious processions through the streets, to render thanks +for the apparent cessation of the activity of Vesuvius. Motley but +picturesque processions were these, headed by boys carrying candles, +which burned simply in the full sunshine and bearing aloft images of the +Madonna or saints, clad in gorgeous robes of cheap blue or yellow +satin. Their joy was suddenly changed to grief by tidings of a frightful +disaster. The roof of the Monte Oliveto market, fronting on the Toledo, +the main thoroughfare, had suddenly crushed in, burying more than 200 +people beneath its heavy fall. + +The market had been crowded with buyers and their children, and it was +the busiest hours of the day in the great roofed courtyard, covering a +space 600 feet square, when, with scarcely a tremor of warning, there +came a frightful crash and a dense cloud of dust covered the scene, from +out of which came heartrending screams of agony. The volcanic ash which, +unnoticed, had gathered thickly on the roof, had broken it in by its +weight. + +The news set the people frantic with grief and indignation. They +insisted that the authorities knew that the roof was unsafe and had +neglected their duty. Cursing and screaming in their intense excitement, +they surrounded the market, endeavoring with frantic haste to remove the +heavy beams from beneath which came the appealing calls for help, many +of the rescuers sobbing aloud as they worked. It required a large force +of police and soldiers to keep them back and permit the firemen and +other trained workers to carry on more systematically the work of +relief. Twelve persons proved to have been killed, two fatally injured, +twenty-four seriously hurt and over a hundred badly bruised and cut. +Among these were many children, whose parents had sent them to do the +marketing without a dream of danger, and the grief of the parents was +intense. The Duke of Aosta, Prefect of Naples, directed the work of +rescue, while his wife assisted in the care of the injured. As the +Duchess bent in the hospital to give a cooling drink to a badly bruised +little girl she felt a kiss upon her hand. Looking down, she saw a woman +kneeling at her feet, who gratefully said: "Your Excellency, she is all +I have. I am a widow. May God reward you." + +While this scene of horror was taking place in Naples the fate of the +town and villages grouped around the foot of the volcano seemed as +hopeless as ever. Early on the 10th the showers of ashes and streams +of lava diminished and almost ceased, but later the same day they began +again, and the terrified inhabitants feared that a catastrophe like that +which buried Pompeii and Herculaneum was about to visit them. The lava +which reached the cemetery of Torre Annunziata turned in the direction +of Pompeii as if to freshly entomb that exhumed city of the past. A +violent storm of sulphurous rain fell at San Giuseppe, Vesuviana and +Sariano, and on all sides the fall of sand and ashes came on again in +full strength. Even with the sun shining high in the heavens the light +was a dim yellow, in the midst of which the few persons who still +haunted the stricken towns moved about in the awful stillness of +desolation like gray ghosts, their clothing, hair and beards covered +with ashes. + + +THE ERUPTION RESUMED. + + +A typical case was that of Torre del Greco. Though for thirty hours +the place had been deserted, a few ghostly figures could be seen +at intervals when the vivid flashes of lightning illuminated the +gloom-covered scene, wandering desolately about, hungry and thirsty, +their throats parched by smoke and dust, yet unable to tear themselves +away from the ruins of their late comfortable homes. + +So deep was the ash fall that railway or tramway travel to the inner +circle of towns was impossible, and the great depth of fallen dust +choked the roads so as to render travel by carriage or on foot very +difficult. A party of officials made a tour of inspection by automobile, +visiting a number of the town, but were prevented by the state of the +roads from reaching others. Ottajano was thus cut off from travel, and +a heavy fall of ashes followed the officials in their retreat. At Bosco +Trecase the lava had gathered into a lake, already growing solid on top, +but a mass of liquid rock beneath. + +The lava carried vast masses of burnt stone and sulphur on its surface, +like dross on melted lead, and nothing was visible toward Bosco +Trecase but endless acres of dark scoriae, broken here and there by the +greenish, curling smoke of sulphur. At one point a great cone pine tree, +torn up by its roots and turned to black charcoal, stuck out of the mass +at a sharp angle. The air was almost unbearable, the heat intense, and +few could long bear the dangers and discomfort of the situation. + + +SCENES OF HORROR. + + +The greatest depth of ashes encountered was in the vicinity of Ottajano. +Here large areas were buried to a depth of several feet. Soldiers had +been sent there with military carts, carrying provisions and surgical +appliances, with orders to lend their aid in the work of relief. They +found it almost impossible to make their way through the deep fine dust, +and the tales of horror and heroism they had to tell resembled those +that must of old have been borne to Rome by the fleeing inhabitants of +Pompeii. + +Efforts were made to remove the children and old persons in the carts, +but when these had gone a few hundred feet it was found that, although +there were four horses harnessed to each vehicle, they could not pull +their loads through the ashes. This caused a panic among the children, +who expected to be buried in the incessant fall from the volcano, and +they fled in all directions in the darkness and blinding rain. Searching +parties went after them, but in spite of continuous shouting and calling +no trace was found of the little ones, and numbers of the children were +undoubtedly smothered by the ashes and sand. + +Many of the inhabitants had been buried in the ruins of their houses, +and the scenes when the victims were unearthed were often piteous and +terrible. The positions of the bodies showed that the victims had died +while in a state of great terror, the faces being convulsed with fear. +Three bodies were found in a confessional of one of the fallen churches. +One body was that of an old woman who was sitting with her right arm +raised as though to ward off the advancing danger. The second was that +of a child about eight years old. It was found dead in a position, which +would indicate that the child had fallen with a little dog close to it +and had died with one arm raised across its face, to protect itself +and pet from the crumbling ruins. The third body, that of a woman, was +reduced to an unrecognizable mass. These three victims were reverently +laid side by side while a procession of friends and relatives offered up +prayers beside them. + +One soldier rode his horse through the ashes reaching up to its flanks, +calling out, "Who wants help?" He was rewarded by hearing a woman's +voice reply in weak tones and, springing from his horse, he floundered +through the ashes to the ruined walls of a house from which the voice +seemed to come. As he made his way through the soft, treacherous +layer of scoriae which surrounded the destroyed habitation, and with +difficulty worked his way toward the building the soldier shouted +words of encouragement and, climbing over a heap of ruins and braving a +toppling wall, entered the building. In the cellar he found the bodies +of three children. Near them was a woman, barely alive, who by almost +superhuman efforts for hours had succeeded in freeing herself from a +mass of debris which had fallen upon her. The soldier picked the woman +up in his arms and carried her to a place of safety. It was found that +both legs were broken and that she had been badly crushed about the +body. + +Some extraordinary escapes from death took place. A man and his +four children were rescued after having been lost in the ash-covered +wilderness for fifty-six hours. They were terribly exhausted, and were +reduced almost to skeletons. + +Robert Underwood Johnson, one of the editors of the "Century Magazine", +who happened to be in Rome at the time of the eruption, made one of a +party who ventured as near the scene of destruction as they could safely +approach. From his graphic story of his experiences we copy some of the +most interesting details. + + +AN AMERICAN OBSERVER. + + +"We caught a train for Torre Annunziata, three miles this side of +Pompeii and two miles from the southern end of the wedge of lava which +destroyed Bosco Trecase. We had a magnificent view of the eruption, +eight miles away. Rising at an angle of fifty degrees, the vast mass of +tumult roundness was beautifully accentuated by the full moon, shifting +momentarily into new forms and drifting south in low, black clouds of +ashes and cinders reaching to Capri. At Torre del Greco we ran under +this terrifying pall, apparently a hundred feet above, the solidity of +which was soon revealed in the moonlight. The torches of the railway +guards added to the effect, but greatly relieved the sulphurous +darkness. + +"We reached Torre Annunziata at three in the morning. There was little +suggestion of a disaster as we trudged through the sleeping town to the +lava, two miles away. The brilliant moon gave us a superb view of the +volcano, a gray-brown mass rising, expanding and curling in with a +profile like a monstrous cyclopean face. But nothing in mythology gives +a suggestion of the fascination of this awful force, presenting the +sublime beauty above, but in its descent filled with the mysterious +malignance of God's underworld. + +"We reached the lava at a picturesque cypress-planted cemetery on +the northern boundary of Torre Annunziata. It was as if the dead had +effectually cried out to arrest the crushing river of flames which +pitilessly engulfed the statue of St. Anne with which the people of +Bosco Reale tried to stay it, as at Catania the veil of St. Agathe is +said to have stayed a similar stream from Mount Etna. + +"We climbed on the lava. It was cool above but still alive with fire +below. We could see dimly the extent of the destruction beyond the +barrier of brown which had enclosed the streets, torn down the houses, +invaded the vineyards and broken Cook's railways. A better idea of the +surroundings was obtained at dawn from the railway. We saw north what +was left of Bosco Trecase--a great, square stone church and a few houses +inland in a sea of dull, brown lava. North and east rose a thousand +patches of blue smoke like swamp miasma. All was dull and desolate slag, +with nowhere the familiar serpentine forms of the old lava streams. In +terrible contrast with the volcanic evidences were strong cypresses and +blooming camelias in a neighboring cemetery. + +"We ate a hasty luncheon before sunrise, when the great beauty of the +scene was revealed. The column now seemed higher and more massive, +rising to three times the height of Vesuvius. Each portion had a +concentric motion and new aspects. The south edges floating toward the +sea showed exquisite curved surfaces, due to the upper moving current. +It was like the decoration of the side of a great sarcophagus. As a +yellow dust hangs over Naples and hides the volcano, I count myself +fortunate to have seen all day from leeward this spectacle of changing, +undiminishing beauty. + +"The wedge of cultivated land ruined east of the volcano extended at +least ten miles, with a width of twenty or thirty miles. Fancy a rich +and thickly populated country of vineyards lying under three to six +inches of ashes and cinders of the color of chocolate with milk, while +above, to the west, the volcano in full activity is distributing to the +outer edges of the circle the same fate, and you will get an idea of the +desolate impression of the scene, a tragedy colossal and heartrending. +Like that of Calabria, it enlists the sympathy of the civilized world. +It takes time for such a calamity to be realized. + +"Two miles below San Giuseppe we struck cinders which the soldiers +were shoveling, making a narrow road for the refugees. Our wagon driver +begged off from completing his contract to take us to San Giuseppe. We +had not the heart to insist, so the rest of the journey to the railway +at Palma, eight miles, was made laboriously on foot for three hours +through sliding cinders. + +"In many places temporary shelters had been built by the roadside, +like children's playhouses. Here women were huddled with their bedding, +awaiting the coming of supplies which the army had begun to distribute. +The men were largely occupied with shoveling cinders from the stronger +roofs and floors into heaps three to six feet deep along the roadside. +Many two-wheeled carts loaded with salvage, drawn by donkeys or pushed +by peasants, were making their way along, the women with bundles on +their heads or carrying poultry. + +"In the square of San Giuseppe was an encampment of soldiers, with low +tents. Near a destroyed church, in coarse yellow linen shrouds, were the +bodies of thirty-three of the persons who there lost their lives. The +peasants were sad, but uncomplaining; in fact, for so excitable a people +they were wonderfully calm. As evidence of the thrift and self-respect +of these, we were not once asked for alms during the afternoon." + + +THE KING AT THE FRONT. + + +The Italian Government did all it could at the moment to alleviate the +horrors of the situation, sending money to be expended in relief +work and dispatching high officials of the government to give aid and +encouragement by their presence. The King, Victor Emmanuel, and Queen +Helene reached the scene of destruction as early as possible and lent +their personal assistance to the work of rescue. + +Obliged to leave his automobile, which could not move over the +cinder-choked road, the King went forward with difficulty on horseback, +the animal floundering through four feet of ashes, stumbling into holes, +and half blinded by the fall of dust and cinders. + +"How did you escape?" he asked a priest whom he met in his journey. + +"I put myself in safety," was the reply. + +"What do you mean?" asked the King. + +"Realizing the danger, I left Nola." + +"What!" cried the King, with a flush of anger. "You, a minister of God, +were not here to share the danger of your people and administer the last +sacraments? You did very wrong and forgot your duty." + +Reaching Ottejano, the King did what he could to expedite the work +of rescue at that central point of disaster, more than a hundred dead +bodies being taken from the ruins in his presence. He stood with set +pale face watching the removal of the victims and directing the movement +of the workers. During his visit at the front he inspected the temporary +camp hospitals, in which the soldiers were caring for the injured and +suffering, speaking to the poor victims, giving them what comfort he +could, and asking what he could do to relieve their distress. Every +request or desire was received with sympathy and orders given to have it +fulfilled. + +A pitiful scene took place when the King bent over a poor man, whose +right leg had been amputated, and asked what he could do to comfort and +aid him in his affliction. + +"Send me my son, who is serving as a soldier," said the maimed peasant. + +The King, visibly affected, clasped the old man's hand and exclaimed: + +"My poor fellow! I can do much, but to grant your request would mean +breaking the laws, which I must be the first to respect. I would give +anything I have were it possible by so doing to send your son to you, +but I cannot do so." + +While the King was thus engaged at the scenes of desolation, Queen +Helene visited the charitable institutions at Naples and inspected the +places where the refugees were housed, doing what she could to improve +conditions and add to the comfort of the sufferers. The Princess of +Schleswig-Holstein, who was in Naples, made an automobile visit to the +afflicted towns, but the motor broke down, and she was forced to return +on foot, walking a distance of twelve miles through the ashes and +displaying a power of endurance that surprised the natives. + + +THE CANOPY OF DUST. + + +By Friday, April 13th, the eruption was practically at an end. Vesuvius +had spent itself in the enormous convulsion of the 7th and 8th and +the subsequent minor explosions and had returned to its normal state, +ceasing to give any signs of life, except the cloud of smoke which still +rose from its crater and spread like a thick curtain over and around the +mountain. Looked at from Naples, there was none of the familiar aspects +of the volcano, with its output of smoke and ashes by day and fiery +gleam by night. Now it lay buried in darkness and obscurity, clothed +in a dense pall of smoke. At Rome there was sunshine, but twenty miles +south hung a misty veil, and twenty-five miles above Naples a zone of +semi-obscurity began, blotting out the sun, whose light trickled through +with a sickly glare. Everything was whitened with powdery dust; pretty +white villas were daubed and dripping with mud, and people were busy +shoveling the ashes from their roofs. + +The crowds at the stations resembled millers, their clothes flour +covered; the Campania presented the appearance of a Dakota prairie after +a blizzard of snow, though everything was gray instead of white. The +ashes lay in drifts knee deep. As the volcano was approached semi-night +replaced the day, the gloom being so deep that telegraph poles twenty +feet away could not be seen. Breathing was difficult, and the smoke made +the eyes water. At Naples, however, a favorable wind had cleared the air +of smoke, the sun shone brightly, and the versatile people were happy +once more. The goggles and eye-screens had disappeared, but the streets +were anything but comfortable, for some six thousand men were at work +clearing the ashes from the roofs and main streets and piling them in +the middle of the narrow streets, making the passage of vehicles very +difficult and the sidewalks far from comfortable for foot passengers. + +But while brightness and joy reigned at Naples, there were gruesome +scenes within the volcanic zone. At Bosco Trecase soldiers carried on +the work of exhumation, being able to work only an hour at a time on +account of the advanced stage of decomposition of the bodies. Many of +these were shapeless, unrecognizable masses of flesh and bones, while +others were little disfigured. To lessen the danger of an epidemic the +bodies were buried as quickly as possible in quicklime. + +On Sunday, the 15th, the searchers at Ottejano were surprised at finding +two aged women still alive, after six days' entombment in the ruins. +They were among those who had been buried by the falling walls a week +before. The rafters of the house had protected them, and a few morsels +of food in their pockets aided to keep them alive. At some points there +the ashes were ten feet deep. At San Giuseppe bodies of women were found +in whose hands were coins and jewels, and one woman held a jewelled +rosary. This recalls the results of exploration at Herculaneum and +Pompeii, where were similar instances of death overtaking the victims of +the volcano while fleeing with their jewels in their hands. + +It is interesting to learn that two men stood heroically to their post +of duty during the whole scene of the explosion, Professor Matteucci, +Director of the Royal Observatory, and his American assistant, Professor +Frank A. Perret, of New York. Though the building occupied by them +was exposed to the full force of the rain of stones from the burning +mountain, they remained undauntedly at their post through that week of +terror. On the 14th some of that venturesome fraternity, the newspaper +correspondents, reached their eyrie on the highest habitable point on +Vesuvius and heard the story of their experiences. + + +THE HEROES OF THE OBSERVATORY. + + +For several days Professors Matteucci and Perret and their two servants +had been cut off from the outside world and bombarded by the volcano, +their rations consisting of bread, cheese and dried onions, until on +Friday a hardy guide was induced to push through to them with +some provisions. During the eruption the Professor had kept at his +instruments, taking observations day and night and making calculations +in the midst of the inferno. Roughly dressed, he looked like a Western +cowboy after a hard ride in a dust storm. The portico where he stood was +knee deep in ashes, and from the observatory terrace narrow paths had +been cut through the ashes, but as far as the eye could reach an ocean +of ashes and twisted rivers were alone visible, with Vesuvius rising +grimly in the midst. The great monster was enveloped in a cloak of +white, as if buried under a snowstorm, its surface being here and there +slit with gulches in which lava ran. At the bottom of one of those +gulches lay the wrecked remnants of the peninsular railway, a portion +of its twisted cable protruding through the ashes. As the correspondents +ascended the mountain they were surprised by the apparition of +natives, men wrinkled with age, who emerged from dugouts just below +the observatory and offered them milk and eggs, just as if they were +ordinary visitors to the volcano. As they descended they heard the +sound of a mandolin from one of these dugouts. Evidently Vesuvius had no +terrors for these case-hardened veterans. + +We have already told the story gleaned by the correspondents from the +daring scientists. Matteucci completed his record of boldness on Friday, +the 13th, by climbing to a point far above the observatory, at the +imminent risk of his life, to observe the conditions then existing. From +what he says he believed the end of the disturbance near, though he did +not venture to predict. As for the ashes, which a light wind was then +blowing in a direction away from Naples, he said: "The ill wind is now +blowing good to other places, for ashes are the best fertilizer it is +possible to use. It is merely a question just now of having too much of +a good thing." + +This is a fact so far as the volcanic ash is concerned. An examination +of the ashes a few days ago shows that they will prove an active and +valuable fertilizer. The fertile slopes of Vesuvius have ever been an +allurement to the vine-grower, four crops a year being a temptation no +possible danger could drive him from, and as soon as the mountain grows +surely peaceful after this eruption, we shall find its farmers risking +again the chance of its uncertain temper. But this is not the case with +the land covered with lava and cinders. Time for their disintegration +is necessary before they can be brought under cultivation, and this is +a matter of years. After the great eruption of 1871-72 the land covered +with cinders did not bear crops for seven years, and there is no reason +that they will do so sooner on the present occasion. So for years to +come much of the volcanic soil must remain a barren and desert void. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +The Great Lisbon and Calabrian Earthquakes. + + +To our account of the great earth convulsions of San Francisco it is in +place to append a description of some similar events of older date. It +is due to the same causes, whatever these causes may be, the imprisoned +forces within the earth acting over great distances during the +earthquake, while they are concentrated within some limited space when +the volcano begins its work. The earthquake is the most terrible to +mankind of all the natural agencies of destruction. While the volcano +usually has a greater permanent effect upon surface conditions, it is, +as a rule, much less destructive to human life, the earthquake often +shaking down cities and burying all their inhabitants in one common +grave. Violent earthquakes are also of far more frequent occurrence than +destructive volcanic eruptions, many hundreds of them having taken place +during the historic period. + +While the earthquake is only indirectly connected with the subject of +our work, it seems desirable to make some mention of it here, at least +so far as relates to those terrible convulsions whose destructiveness +has given them special prominence in the history of great disasters. +Ancient notable examples are those which threw down the famous Colossus +of Rhodes and the Pharos of Alexandria. The city of Antioch was a +terrible sufferer from this affliction, it having been devastated some +time before the Christian era, while in the year 859 more than 15,000 +of its houses were destroyed. Of countries subject to earthquakes, Japan +has been an especial sufferer, in some cases mountains or islands being +elevated in association with shocks; in others, great tracts of land +being swallowed up by the sea. The number of deaths in some of these +instances was enormous. + +Numerous thrilling examples of the destructive work of the earthquake +at various periods are on record. Of these we have given elsewhere a +tabular list of the more important, and shall confine ourselves to a +few striking examples of its destructive action. In the record of great +earthquakes, one of the most famous is that which in 1755 visited the +city of Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, and left that populous, place +in ruin and dire distress. It may be well to recall the details of this +dire event to the memories of our readers. + + +THE GREAT LISBON EARTHQUAKE + + +On the night of the 31st of October, 1755, the citizens of the fair city +of Lisbon lay down to sleep, in merciful ignorance of what was awaiting +them on the morrow. The morning of the 1st of November dawned, and gave +no sign of approaching calamity. The sun rose in its brightness, the +warmth was genial, the breezes gentle, the sky serene. It was All +Saints' Day--a high festival of the Church of Rome. The sacred edifices +were thronged with eager crowds, and the ceremonies were in full +progress, when the assembled throngs were suddenly startled from their +devotions. From the ground beneath came fearful sounds that drowned +the peal of the organ and the voices of the choirs. These underground +thunders having rolled away, an awful silence ensued. The panic-stricken +multitudes were paralyzed with terror. Immediately after the ground +began to heave with a long and gentle swell, producing giddiness and +faintness among the people. The tall piles swayed to and fro, like +willows in the wind. Shrieks of horror rose from the terrified assembly. +Again the earth heaved, and this time with a longer and higher wave. +Down came the ponderous arches, the stately columns, the massive walls, +the lofty spires, tumbling upon the heads of priests and people. The +graven images, the deified wafers, and they who had knelt in adoration +before them--the worshipped and the worshippers alike--were in a moment +buried under one undistinguishable mass of horrible ruins. Only a few, +who were near the doors, escaped to tell the tale. + +It fared no better with those who had remained in their dwellings. The +terrible earth-wave overthrew the larger number of the private houses in +the city, burying their inhabitants under the crumbling walls. Those who +were in the streets more generally escaped, though some there, too, were +killed by falling walls. + +The sudden overthrow of so many buildings raised vast volumes of fine +dust, which filled the atmosphere and obscured the sun, producing a +dense gloom. The air was full of doleful sounds--the groans of agony +from the wounded and the dying, screams of despair from the horrified +survivors, wails of lamentation from the suddenly bereaved, dismal +howlings of dogs, and terrified cries of other animals. + +In two or three minutes the clouds of dust fell to the ground, and +disclosed the scene of desolation which a few seconds had wrought. The +ruin, though general, was not universal. A considerable number of houses +were left standing--fortunately tenantless--for a third great earth-wave +traversed the city, and most of the buildings which had withstood the +previous shocks, already severely shaken, were entirely overthrown. + + +WATER ADDS TO THE DESTRUCTION + + +The last disaster filled the surviving citizens with the impulse of +flight. The more fortunate of them ran in the direction of the open +country, and succeeded in saving their lives; but a great multitude +rushed down to the harbor, thinking to escape by sea. Here, however, +they were met by a new and unexpected peril. The tide, after first +retreating for a little, came rolling in with an immense wave, about +fifty feet in height, carrying with it ships, barges and boats, and +dashing them in dire confusion upon the crowded shore. Overwhelmed +by this huge wave, great numbers were, on its retreat, swept into the +seething waters and drowned. A vast throng took refuge on a fine new +marble quay, but recently completed, which had cost much labor and +expense. This the sea-wave had spared, sweeping harmless by. But, alas! +it was only for a moment. The vast structure itself, with the whole of +its living burden, sank instantaneously into an awful chasm which opened +underneath. The mole and all who were on it, the boats and barges moored +to its sides, all of them filled with people, were in a moment ingulfed. +Not a single corpse, not a shred of raiment, not a plank nor a splinter +floated to the surface, and a hundred fathoms of water covered the +spot. To the first great sea-wave several others succeeded, and the bay +continued for a long time in a state of tumultuous agitation. + +About two hours after the first overthrow of the buildings, a new +element of destruction came into play. The fires in the ruined houses +kindled the timbers, and a mighty conflagration, urged by a violent +wind, soon raged among the ruins, consuming everything combustible, and +completing the wreck of the city. This fire, which lasted four days, was +not altogether a misfortune. It consumed the thousands of corpses which +would otherwise have tainted the air, adding pestilence to the other +misfortunes of the survivors. Yet they were threatened with an enemy not +less appalling, for famine stared them in the face. Almost everything +eatable within the precincts of the city had been consumed. A set +of wretches, morever, who had escaped from the ruins of the prisons, +prowled among the rubbish of the houses in search of plunder, so that +whatever remained in the shape of provisions fell into their hands and +was speedily devoured. They also broke into the houses that remained +standing, and rifled them of their contents. It is said that many of +those who had been only injured by the ruins, and might have escaped by +being extricated, were ruthlessly murdered by those merciless villains. + +The total loss of life by this terrible catastrophe is estimated at +60,000 persons, of whom about 40,000 perished at once, and the remainder +died afterwards of the injuries and privations they sustained. Twelve +hundred were buried in the ruins of the general hospital, eight hundred +in those of the civil prison, and several thousands in those of the +convents. The loss of property amounted to many millions sterling. + + +WIDE-SPREAD DESTRUCTION + + +Although the earth-wave traversed the whole city, the shock was felt +more severely in some quarters than in others. All the older part of the +town, called the Moorish quarter, was entirely overthrown; and of the +newer part, about seventy of the principal streets were ruined. +Some buildings that withstood the shocks were destroyed by fire. The +cathedral, eighteen parish churches, almost all the convents, the halls +of the inquisition, the royal residence, and several other fine palaces +of the nobility and mansions of the wealthy, the custom-houses, the +warehouses filled with merchandise, the public granaries filled with +corn, and large timber yards, with their stores of lumber, were either +overthrown or burned. + +The king and court were not in Lisbon at the time of this great +disaster, but were living in the neighborhood at the castle of Belem, +which escaped injury. The royal family, however, were so alarmed by the +shocks, that they passed the following night in carriages out of +doors. None of the officers of state were with them at the time. On +the following morning the king hastened to the ruined city, to see what +could be done toward restoring order, aiding the wounded, and providing +food for the hungry. + +The royal family and the members of the court exerted themselves to the +uttermost, the ladies devoting themselves to the preparation of lint and +bandages, and to nursing the wounded, the sick, and the dying, of whom +the numbers were overwhelming. Among the sufferers were men of quality +and once opulent citizens, who had been reduced in a moment to absolute +penury. The kitchens of the royal palace, which fortunately remained +standing, were used for the purpose of preparing food for the starving +multitudes. It is said that during the first two or three days a pound +of bread was worth an ounce of gold. One of the first measures of the +government was to buy up all the corn that could be obtained in the +neighborhood of Lisbon, and to sell it again at a moderate price, to +those who could afford to buy, distributing it gratis to those who had +nothing to pay. + +For about a month afterward earthquake shocks continued, some of them +severe. It was several months before any of the citizens could summon +courage to begin rebuilding the city. But by degrees their confidence +returned. The earth had relapsed into repose, and they set about the +task of rebuilding with so much energy, that in ten years Lisbon again +became one of the most beautiful capitals of Europe. + + +CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LISBON EARTHQUAKE + + +The most distinguishing peculiarities of this earthquake were the +swallowing up of the mole, and the vast extent of the earth's surface +over which the shocks were felt. Several of the highest mountains in +Portugal were violently shaken, and rent at their summits; huge masses +falling from them into the neighboring valleys. These great fractures +gave rise to immense volumes of dust, which at a distance were mistaken +for smoke by those who beheld them. Flames were also said to have been +observed: but if there were any such, they were probably electrical +flashes produced by the sudden rupture of the rocks. + +The portion of the earth's surface convulsed by this earthquake is +estimated by Humboldt to have been four times greater than the whole +extent of Europe. The shocks were felt not only over the Spanish +peninsula, but in Morocco and Algeria they were nearly as violent. At a +place about twenty-four miles from the city of Morocco, there is said +to have occurred a catastrophe much resembling what took place at the +Lisbon mole. A great fissure opened in the earth, and an entire village, +with all its inhabitants, upwards of 8,000 in number, were precipitated +into the gulf, which immediately closed over its prey. + + +EARTHQUAKES IN CALABRIA + + +Of the numerous other examples of destructive earthquakes which might +be chosen from Old World annals, it will not be amiss to append a brief +account of those which took place in Calabria, Italy, in 1783. These, +while less wide-spread in their influence, were much longer in duration +than the Lisbon cataclysm, since they continued, at intervals, from the +5th of February until the end of the year. The shocks were felt all over +Sicily and as far north as Naples, but the area of severe convulsion was +comparatively limited, not exceeding five hundred square miles. + +The centre of disturbance seems to have been under the town of Oppido in +the farther Calabria, and it extended in every direction from that +spot to a distance of about twenty-two miles, with such violence as to +overthrow every city, town and village lying within that circle. This +ruin was accomplished by the first shock on the 5th of February. The +second, of equal violence, on the 28th of March, was less destructive, +only because little or nothing had been left for it to overthrow. + +At Oppido the motion was in the nature of a vertical upheaval of the +ground, which was accompanied by the opening of numerous large chasms, +into some of which many houses were ingulfed, the chasms closing over +them again almost immediately. The town itself was situated on the +summit of a hill, flanked by five steep and difficult slopes; it was +so completely overthrown by the first shock that scarcely a fragment of +wall was left standing. The hill itself was not thrown down, but a fort +which commanded the approach to the place was hurled into the gorge +below. It was on the flats immediately surrounding the site of the town +and on the rising grounds beyond them that the great fissures and chasms +were opened. On the slope of one of the hills opposite the town there +appeared a vast chasm, in which a large quantity of soil covered with +vines and olive-trees was engulfed. This chasm remained open after the +shock, and was somewhat in the form of an amphitheatre, 500 feet long +and 200 feet in depth. + + +MOST CALAMITOUS OF THE LANDSLIPS + + +The most calamitous of the landslips occurred on the sea-coast of the +Straits of Messina, near the celebrated rock of Scilla, where huge +masses fell from the tall cliffs, overwhelming many villas and gardens. +At Gian Greco a continuous line of precipitous rocks, nearly a mile in +length, tumbled down. The aged Prince of Scilla, after the first great +shock on the 5th of February, persuaded many of his vassals to quit +the dangerous shore, and take refuge in the fishing boats--he himself +showing the example. That same night, however, while many of the people +were asleep in the boats, and others on a flat plain a little above the +sea-level, another powerful shock threw down from the neighboring Mount +Jaci a great mass, which fell with a dreadful crash, partly into the +sea, and partly upon the plain beneath. Immediately the sea rose to a +height of twenty feet above the level ground on which the people were +stationed, and rolling over it, swept away the whole multitude. This +immense wave then retired, but returned with still greater violence, +bringing with it the bodies of the men and animals it had previously +swept away, dashing to pieces the whole of the boats, drowning all that +were in them, and wafting the fragments far inland. The prince with +1,430 of his people perished by this disaster. + +It was on the north-eastern shore of Sicily, however, that the greatest +amount of damage was done. The first severe shock, on the 5th of +February, overthrew nearly the whole of the beautiful city of Messina, +with great loss of life. The shore for a considerable distance along the +coast was rent, and the ground along the port, which was before quite +level, became afterwards inclined towards the sea, the depth of the +water having, at the same time, increased in several parts, through the +displacement of portions of the bottom. The quay also subsided about +fourteen inches below the level of the sea, and the houses near it +were much rent. But it was in the city itself that the most terrible +desolation was wrought--a complication of disasters having followed +the shock, more especially a fierce conflagration, whose intensity was +augmented by the large stores of oil kept in the place. + + +IMMENSE DESTRUCTION + + +According to official reports made soon after the events, the +destruction caused by the earthquakes of the 5th of February and 28th +of March throughout the two Calabrias was immense. About 320 towns +and villages were entirely reduced to ruins, and about fifty others +seriously damaged. The loss of life was appalling--40,000 having +perished by the earthquakes, and 20,000 more having subsequently died +from privation and exposure, or from epidemic diseases bred by the +stagnant pools and the decaying carcases of men and animals. The greater +number were buried amid the ruins of the houses, while others perished +in the fires that were kindled in most of the towns, particularly in +Oppido, where the flames were fed by great magazines of oil. Not a few, +especially among the peasantry dwelling in the country, were suddenly +engulfed in fissures. Many who were only half buried in the ruins, and +who might have been saved had there been help at hand, were left to +die a lingering death from cold and hunger. Four Augustine monks at +Terranuova perished thus miserably. Having taken refuge in a vaulted +sacristy, they were entombed in it alive by the masses of rubbish, +and lingered for four days, during which their cries for help could be +heard, till death put an end to their sufferings. + +Of still more thrilling interest was the case of the Marchioness +Spastara. Having fainted at the moment of the first great shock, she was +lifted by her husband, who, bearing her in his arms, hurried with her to +the harbor. Here, on recovering her senses, she observed that her infant +boy had been left behind. Taking advantage of a moment when her husband +was too much occupied to notice her, she darted off and, running back +to the house, which was still standing, she snatched her babe from its +cradle. Rushing with him in her arms towards the staircase, she +found the stair had fallen--cutting off all further progress in that +direction. She fled from room to room, pursued by the falling materials, +and at length reached a balcony as her last refuge. Holding up her +infant, she implored the few passers-by for help; but they all, intent +on securing their own safety, turned a deaf ear to her cries. Meanwhile +the mansion had caught fire, and before long the balcony, with the +devoted lady still grasping her darling, was hurled into the devouring +flames. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +The Charleston and Other Earthquakes of the United States. + + +The twin continents of America have rivalled the record of the Old World +in their experience of earthquakes since their discovery in 1492. The +first of these made note of was in Venezuela in 1530, but they have been +numerous and often disastrous since. Among them was the great shock at +Lima in 1746, by which 18,000 were killed, and those at Guatemala in +1773, with 33,000, and at Riobamba in 1797, with 41,000 victims. It +will, however, doubtless prove of more interest to our readers if we +pass over these ruinous disasters and confine ourselves to the less +destructive earthquakes which have taken place within our own country. + +The United States, large a section of North America as it occupies, is +fortunate in being in a great measure destitute of volcanic phenomena, +while destructive earthquakes have been very rare in its history. This, +it is true, does not apply to the United States as it is, but as it was. +It has annexed the volcano and the earthquake with its new accessions of +territory. Alaska has its volcanoes, the Philippines are subject to +both forms of convulsion, and in Hawaii we possess the most spectacular +volcano of the earth, while the earthquake is its common attendant. +But in the older United States the volcano contents itself with an +occasional puff of smoke, and eruptive phenomena are confined to the +minor form of the geyser. + +We are by no means so free from the earthquake. Slight movements of the +earth's surface are much more common than many of us imagine, and in +the history of our land there have been a number of earth shocks +of considerable violence. Prior to that of San Francisco, the most +destructive to life and property was that of Charleston in 1886, though +the 1812 convulsion in the Mississippi Valley might have proved a +much greater calamity but for the fact that civilized man had not then +largely invaded its centre of action. + +As regards the number of earth movements in this country, we are told +that in New England alone 231 were recorded in two hundred and fifty +years, while doubtless many slighter ones were left unrecorded. Taking +the whole United States, there were 364 recorded in the twelve years +from 1872 to 1883, and in 1885 fifty-nine were recorded, more than +two-thirds of them being on the Pacific slope. Most of these, however, +were very slight, some of them barely perceptible. + +Confining ourselves to those of the past important in their effects, we +shall first speak of the shocks which took place in New England in 1755, +in the year and month of the great earthquake at Lisbon. On the 18th of +November of that year, while the shocks at Lisbon still continued, +New England was violently shaken, loud underground explosive noises +accompanying the shocks. In the harbors along the Atlantic coast there +was much agitation of the waters and many dead fish were thrown up on +the shores. The shock, indeed, was felt far from the coast, by the +crew of a ship more than two hundred miles out at sea from Cape Ann, +Massachusetts. + +This event, however, was of minor importance, being much inferior to +that of 1812, in which year California and the Mississippi Valley alike +were affected by violent movements of the earth's crust. The California +convulsions took place in the spring and summer of that year, extending +from the beginning of May until September. Throughout May the southern +portion of that region was violently agitated, the shocks being so +frequent and severe that people abandoned their houses and slept on the +open ground. The most destructive shocks came in September, when two +Mission houses were destroyed and many of their inmates killed. At Santa +Barbara a tidal wave invaded the coast and flowed some distance into the +interior. + +It may be said here that California has proved more subject to severe +shocks than any other section of our country. In 1865 sharp tremors +shook the whole region about the Bay of San Francisco, many buildings +being thrown down. Hardly any of brick or stone escaped injury, though +few lives were lost. In 1872 a disturbance was felt farther west, the +whole range of the Sierra Nevada mountains being violently shaken and +the earth tremblings extending into the State of Nevada. The centre of +activity was along the crest of the range, and immense quantities of +rock were thrown down from the mountain pinnacles. A tremendous fissure +opened along the eastern base of the mountain range for forty miles, +the land to the west of the opening rising and that to the east sinking +several feet. One small settlement, that of Lone Pine, in Owen's Valley, +on the east base of the mountains, was completely demolished, from +twenty to thirty lives being lost. Luckily, the region affected had very +few inhabitants, or the calamity might have been great. + +The earthquakes of 1812 in the Mississippi Valley began in December, +1811, and continued at intervals until 1813. As a rule they were more +distinguished by frequency than violence, though on several occasions +they were severe and had marked effects. They extended through +the valleys of the Mississippi, Arkansas and Ohio, and their long +continuance was remarkable in view of the territory affected being far +from any volcanic region. + +The surface of the valley of the Mississippi was a good deal altered +by these convulsions--several new lakes being formed, while others were +drained. Several new islands were also raised in the river, and during +one of the shocks the ground a little below New Madrid was for a short +time lifted so high as to stop the current of the Mississippi, and cause +it to flow backward. The ground on which this town is built, and the +bank of the river for fifteen miles above it, subsided permanently about +eight feet, and the cemetery of the town fell into the river. In the +neighboring forest the trees were thrown into inclined positions in +every direction, and many of their trunks and branches were broken. It +is affirmed that in some places the ground swelled into great waves, +which burst at their summits and poured forth jets of water, along with +sand and pieces of coal, which were tossed as high as the tops of trees. +On the subsidence of these waves, there were left several hundreds +of hollow depressions from ten to thirty yards in diameter, and about +twenty feet in depth, which remained visible for many years afterward. +Some of the shocks were vertical, and others horizontal, the latter +being the most mischievous. These earthquakes resulted in the general +subsidence of a large tract of country, between seventy and eighty miles +in length from north to south, and about thirty miles in breadth from +east to west. Lakes now mark many of the localities affected by the +earthquake movements. It is only to the fact that this country was then +very thinly settled that a great loss of life was avoided. + +New Madrid, Missouri, was a central point of this earthquake, the +shocks there being repeated with great frequency for several months. +The disturbance of the earth, however, was not confined to the United +States, but affected nearly half of the western hemisphere, ending +in the upheaval of Sabrina in the Azores, already described. The +destruction of Caracas, Venezuela, with many thousands of its +inhabitants, and the eruption of La Soufriere volcano of St. Vincent +Island were incidents of this convulsion. Dr. J. W. Foster tells us that +on the night of the disaster at Caracas the earthquake grew intense at +New Madrid, fissures being opened six hundred feet long by twenty broad, +from which water and sand were flung to the height of forty feet. + +The most destructive of earthquakes in our former history was that which +visited Charleston, South Carolina, in 1886, the injury caused by it +being largely due to the fact that it passed through a populous city. +As it occurred after many of the people had retired, the confusion and +terror due to it were greatly augmented, people fleeing in panic fear +from the tumbling and cracking houses to seek refuge in the widest +streets and open spaces. + +South Carolina had been affected by the wide-spread earthquakes of 1812. +These in some cases altered the level of the land, as is related in +Lyell's "Principles of Geology." But the effect then was much less than +in 1886. Several slight tremors occurred in the early summer of that +year, but did not excite much attention. More distinct shocks were felt +on August 27th and 28th, but the climax was deferred till the evening of +August 31st. The atmosphere that afternoon had been unusually sultry and +quiet, the breeze from the ocean, which generally accompanies the rising +tide, was almost entirely absent, and the setting sun caused a little +glow in the sky. + +"As the hour of 9.50 was reached," we are told, "there was suddenly +heard a rushing, roaring sound, compared by some to a train of cars +at no great distance, by others to a clatter produced by two or more +omnibuses moving at a rapid rate over a paved street, by others again, +to an escape of steam from a boiler. It was followed immediately by a +thumping and beating of the earth beneath the houses, which rocked +and swayed to and fro. Furniture was violently moved and dashed to the +floor; pictures were swung from the walls, and in some cases turned +with their backs to the front, and every movable thing was thrown +into extraordinary convulsions. The greatest intensity of the shock is +considered to have been during the first half, and it was probably +then, during the period of its greatest sway, that so many chimneys +were broken off at the junction of the roof. The duration of this severe +shock is thought to have been from thirty-five to forty seconds. The +impression produced on many was that it could be subdivided into three +distinct movements, while others were of the opinion that it was +one continuous movement, or succession of waves, with the greatest +intensity, as already stated, during the first half of its duration." + +Twenty-seven persons were killed outright, and more than that number +died soon after of their hurts or from exposure; many others were less +seriously injured. Among the buildings, the havoc, though much less +disastrous than has been recorded in some other earthquakes in either +hemisphere, was very great. "There was not a building in the city which +had escaped serious injury. The extent of the damage varied greatly, +ranging from total demolition down to the loss of chimney tops and the +dislodgment of more or less plastering. The number of buildings which +were completely demolished and levelled to the ground was not great; but +there were several hundreds which lost a large portion of their +walls. There were very many also which remained standing, but so badly +shattered that public safety required that they should be pulled down +altogether. There was not, so far as at present is known, a brick or +stone building which was not more or less cracked, and in most of them +the cracks were a permanent disfigurement and a source of danger +and inconvenience." In some places the railway track was curiously +distorted. "It was often displaced laterally, and sometimes alternately +depressed and elevated. Occasionally several lateral flexures of double +curvature and of great amount were exhibited. Many hundred yards of +track had been shoved bodily to the south eastward." + +The ground was fissured at some places in the city to a depth of many +feet, and numerous "craterlets" were formed, from which sand was ejected +in considerable quantities. These are not uncommon phenomena, and were +due, no doubt, to the squirting of water out of saturated sandy layers +not far below the surface; these being squeezed between two less +pervious beds in the passage of the earthquake wave. The ejected +material in the Charleston earthquake was ordinary sand, such as +might exist in many districts which had been quite undisturbed by any +concussions of the earth. + +Captain Dutton made a careful study of the observations collected +by himself and others concerning this earthquake, and came to the +conclusion that the Charleston wave traveled with unusual speed, for +its mean velocity was about 17,000 feet a second. The focus of the +disturbance was also ascertained. Apparently it was a double one, the +two centres being about thirteen miles apart, and the line joining +them running nearly the same distance to the west of Charleston. The +approximate depth of the principal focus is given as twelve miles, +with a possible error of less than two miles; that of the minor one as +roughly eight miles. + +The Charleston earthquake was felt as a tremor of more or less force +through a wide area, embracing 900,000 square miles, and affecting +nearly the whole country east of the Mississippi. It is said that the +yield of the Pennsylvania natural gas wells decreased, and that a geyser +in the Yellowstone valley burst into action after four years of rest. +The movement of the earth-wave was in general north and south, deflected +to east and west, and the snake-like fashion in which rails on the +railroad were bent indicated both a vertical and a lateral force. + +This earthquake has been attributed to various causes, but geological +experts think that it was due to a slip in the crust along the +Appalachian Mountain chain. There is a line of weakness along the +eastern slope of this chain, characterized by fissures and faults, and +it was thought that a strain had been gradually brought to bear upon +this through the removal of earth from the land by rains and rivers and +its deposition in thick strata on the sea-bottom. It is supposed that +this variation in weight in time caused a yielding of the strata and a +slip seaward of the great coastal plain. Professor Mendenhall, however, +thinks it was due to a readjustment of the earth's crust to its +gradually sinking nucleus. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +The Volcano and the Earthquake, Earth's Demons of Destruction. + + +To most of us, dwellers upon the face of the earth, this terrestrial +sphere is quite a comfortable place of residence. The forces of Nature +everywhere and at all times surround us, forces capable, if loosened +from their bonds, of bringing death and destruction to man and the work +of his hands. But usually they are mild and beneficent in their action, +not agents of destruction and lords of elemental misrule. The air, +without whose presence we could not survive a minute, is usually a +pleasant companion, now resting about us in soft calm, now passing by in +mild breezes. The alternation of summer and winter is to us generally an +agreeable relief from the monotony of a uniform climate. The variation +from sunlight to cloud, from dry weather to rainfall, is equally viewed +as a pleasant escape from the weariness of too great fixity of natural +conditions. The change from day to night, from hours of activity to +hours of slumber, are other agreeable variations in the events of our +daily life. In short, a great pendulum seems to be swinging above us, +held in Nature's kindly hand, and adapting its movements to our best +good and highest enjoyment. + +But has Nature,--if we are justified in personifying the laws and forces +of the universe,--has mother Nature really our pleasure and benefit in +mind, or does she merely suffer us to enjoy life like so many summer +insects, until she is in the mood to sweep us like leaves from her +path? It must seem the latter to many of the inhabitants of the earth, +especially to the dwellers in certain ill-conditioned regions. For all +the beneficent powers above named may at a moment's notice change to +destructive ones. + + +THE WIND IS A DEMON IN CHAINS + + +The wind, for instance, is a demon in chains. At times it breaks its +fetters and rushes on in mad fury, rending and destroying, and sweeping +such trifles as cities and those who dwell therein to common ruin. +Sunshine and rain are subject to like wild caprices. The sun may pour +down burning rays for weeks and months together, scorching the fertile +fields, drying up the life-giving streams, bringing famine and misery +to lands of plenty and comfort, almost making the blood to boil in our +veins. Its antithesis, the rainstorm, is at times a still more terrible +visitant. From the dense clouds pour frightful floods, rushing down +the lofty hills, sweeping over fertile plains, overflowing broad river +valleys, and, wherever they go, leaving terror and death in their path. +We may say the same of the alternation of the seasons. Summer, while +looked forward to with joyous anticipation, may bring us only +suffering by its too ardent grasp; and winter, often welcomed with like +pleasurable anticipations, may prove a period of terror from cold and +destitution. + +Such is the make-up of the world in which we live, such the vagaries of +the forces which surround us. But those enumerated are not the whole. +Can we say, with a stamp of the foot upon the solid earth, "Here at +least I have something I can trust; let the winds blow and the rains +descend, let the summer scorch and the winter chill, the good earth +still stands firm beneath me, and of it at least I am sure?" + +Who says so speaks hastily and heedlessly, for the earth can show itself +as unstable as the air, and our solid footing become as insecure as the +deck of a ship laboring in a storm at sea. The powers of the atmosphere, +great as they are and mighty for destruction as they may become, are at +times surpassed by those which abide within the earth, deep laid in the +so-called everlasting rocks, slumbering often through generations, but +at any time likely to awaken in wrath, to lift the earth into quaking +billows like those of the sea, or pour forth torrents of liquid fire +that flow in glowing and burning rivers over leagues of ruined land. +Such is the earth with which we have to deal, such the ruthless powers +of nature that spread around us and lurk beneath us, such the terrific +forces which only bide their time to break forth and sweep too-confident +man from the earth's smiling face. + + +THE SUBTERRANEAN POWERS + + +The subterranean powers here spoken of, those we had denominated earth's +demons of destruction, are the volcano and the earthquake, the great +moulding forces of the earth, tearing down to rebuild, rending to +reconstitute, and in this elemental work often bringing ruin to man's +boasted fanes and palaces. + +No one who has ever seen a volcano or "burning mountain" casting forth +steam, huge red-hot stones, smoke, cinders and lava, can possibly forget +the grandeur of the spectacle. At night it is doubly terrible, when +the darkness shows the red-hot lava rolling in glowing streams down +the mountain's side. At times, indeed, the volcano is quiet, and only +a little smoke curls from its top. Even this may cease, and the once +burning summit may be covered over with trees and grass, like any other +hill. But deep down in the earth the gases and pent-up steam, are ever +preparing to force their way upward through the mountain, and to carry +with them dissolved rocks, and the stones which block their passage. +Sometimes, while all is calm and beautiful on the mountains, suddenly +deep-sounding noises are heard, the ground shakes, and a vast torrent +tears its way through the bowels of the volcano, and is flung hundreds +of feet high in the air, and, falling again to the earth, destroys every +living thing for miles around. + +It is the same with the earthquake as with the volcano. The surface of +the earth is never quite still. Tremors are constantly passing onward +which can be distinguished by delicate instruments, but only rarely are +these of sufficient force to become noticeable, except by instrumental +means. At intervals, however, the power beneath the surface raises +the ground in long, billow-like motions, before which, when of violent +character, no edifice or human habitation can for a moment stand. The +earth is frequently rent asunder, great fissures and cavities being +formed. The course of rivers is changed and the waters are swallowed up +by fissures rent in the surface, while ruin impends in a thousand +forms. The cities become death pits and the cultivated fields are buried +beneath floods of liquid mud. Fortunately these convulsions, alike of +the earthquake and volcano, are comparative rarities and are confined +to limited regions of the earth's surface. What do we know of those +deep-lying powers, those vast buried forces dwelling in uneasy isolation +beneath our feet? With all our science we are but a step beyond the +ancients, to whom these were the Titans, great rebel giants whom Jupiter +overthrew and bound under the burning mountains, and whose throes of +agony shook the earth in quaking convulsions. To us the volcanic crater +is the mouth from which comes the fiery breath of demon powers which +dwell far down in the earth's crust. The Titans themselves were dwarfs +beside these mighty agents of destruction whose domain extends for +thousands of miles beneath the earth's surface and which in their +convulsions shake whole continents at once. Such was the case in 1812, +when the eruption of Mont Soufriere on St. Vincent, as told in a later +chapter, formed merely the closing event in a series of earthquakes +which had made themselves felt under thousands of miles of land. + + +ANCIENT AWE OF VOLCANOES + + +In olden times volcanoes were regarded with superstitious awe, and it +would have been considered highly impious to make any investigation of +their actions. We are told by Virgil that Mt. Etna marks the spot where +the gods in their anger buried Enceladus, one of the rebellious giants. +To our myth-making ancestors one of the volcanoes of the Mediterranean, +set on a small island of the Lipari group, was the workshop of Vulcan, +the god of fire, within whose depths he forged the thunderbolts of the +gods. From below came sounds as of a mighty hammer on a vast anvil. +Through the mountain vent came the black smoke and lurid glow from +the fires of Vulcan's forge. This old myth is in many respects more +consonant with the facts of nature than myths usually are. In agreement +with the theory of its internal forces, the mountain in question was +given the name of Volcano. To-day it is scarcely known at all, but its +name clings to all the fire-breathing mountains of the earth. + +As before said, at the present day we are little in advance of the +ancients in actual knowledge of what is going on so far beneath our +feet. We speak of forces where they spoke of fettered giants, but can +only form theories where they formed myths. Is the earth's centre made +up of liquid fire? Does its rock crust resemble the thick ice crust on +the Arctic Seas, or is the earth, as later scientists believe, solid to +the core? Is it heated so fiercely, miles below our feet, that at every +release of pressure the solid rock bursts into molten lava? Is the steam +from the contact of underground rivers and deep-lying fires the origin +of the terrible rending powers of the volcano's depths? Truly we can +answer none of these questions with assurance, and can only guess +and conjecture from the few facts open to us what lies concealed far +beneath. + + +RARITY OF ANCIENT ACCOUNTS + + +In the history of earthquakes nothing is more remarkable than the +extreme fewness of those recorded before the beginning of the Christian +era, in comparison with those that have been registered since that time. +It is to be borne in mind, however, that before the birth of Christ only +a small portion of the globe was inhabited by those likely to make a +record of natural events. The vast apparent increase in the number +of earthquakes in recent times is owing to a greater knowledge of +the earth's surface and to the spread of civilization over lands once +inhabited by savages. The same is to be said of volcanic eruptions, +which also have apparently increased greatly since the beginning of the +Christian era. There may possibly have been a natural increase in these +phenomena, but this is hardly probable, the change being more likely due +to the increase in the number of observers. + +The structure of a volcano is very different from that of other +mountains, really consisting of layers of lava and volcanic ashes, +alternating with each other and all sloping away from the center. These +elevations, in fact, are formed in a different manner from ordinary +mountains. The latter have been uplifted by the influence of pressure in +the interior of the earth, but the volcano is an immediate result of the +explosive force of which we have spoken, the mountain being gradually +built up by the lava and other materials which it has flung up from +below. In this way mountains of immense height and remarkable regularity +have been formed. Mount Orizabo, near the City of Mexico, for instance, +is a remarkably regular cone, undoubtedly formed in this way, and the +same may be said of Mount Mayon, on the Island of Luzon. + +In many cases the irregularity of the volcano is due to subsequent +action of its forces, which may blow the mountain itself to pieces. +In the case of Krakatoa, in the East Indies, for instance, the whole +mountain was rent into fragments, which were flung as dust miles high +into the air. The main point we wish to indicate is that volcanoes are +never formed by ordinary elevating forces and that they differ in this +way from all other mountains. On the contrary, they have been piled up +like rubbish heaps, resembling the small mountains of coal dust near the +mouths of anthracite mines. + +It is to the burning heat of the earth's crust and the influence of +pressure, and more largely to the influx of water to the molten rocks +which lie miles below the surface, that these convulsions of nature are +due. Water, on reaching these overheated strata, explodes into volumes +of steam, and if there is no free vent to the surface, it is apt to rend +the very mountain asunder in its efforts to escape. Such is supposed +to have been the case in the eruption of Krakatoa, and was probably the +case also in the recent case of Mt. Pelee. + + +GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ERUPTIONS + + +If we should seek to give a general description of volcanic eruptions, +it would be in some such words as follows: An eruption is usually +preceded by earthquakes which affect the whole surrounding country, +and associated with which are underground explosions that seem like +the sound of distant artillery. The mountain quivers with internal +convulsions, due to the efforts of its confined forces to find an +opening. The drying up of wells and disappearance of springs are apt to +take place, the water sinking downward through cracks newly made in the +rocks. Finally the fierce unchained energy rends an opening through the +crater and an eruption begins. It comes usually with a terrible burst +that shakes the mountain to its foundation; explosions following rapidly +and with increasing violence, while steam issues and mounts upward in +a lofty column. The steam and escaping gases in their fierce outbreaks +hurl up into the air great quantities of solid rock torn from the sides +of the opening. The huge blocks, meeting each other in their rise and +fall, are gradually broken and ground into minute fragments, forming +dust or so-called ashes, often of extreme fineness, and in such +quantities as frequently to blot out the light of the sun. There is +another way in which a great deal of volcanic dust is made; the lava is +full of steam, which in its expansion tears the molten rock into atoms, +often converting it into the finest dust. + +The eruption of Mt. Skaptar, in Iceland, in 1783, sent up such volumes +of dust that the atmosphere was loaded with it for months, and it +was carried to the northern part of Scotland, 600 miles away, in such +quantities as to destroy the crops. During the eruption of Tomboro, in +the East Indies, in 1815, so great was the quantity of dust thrown up +that it caused darkness at midday in Java 300 miles away and covered the +ground to a depth of several inches. Floating pumice formed a layer +on the ocean surface two and a half feet in thickness, through which +vessels had difficulty in forcing their way. + +The steam which rises in large volumes into the air may become suddenly +condensed with the chill of the upper atmosphere and fall as rain, +torrents of which often follow an eruption. The rain, falling through +the clouds of volcanic dust, brings it to the earth as liquid mud, which +pours in thick streams down the sides of the mountain. The torrents of +flowing mud are sometimes on such a great scale that large towns, as in +the instance of the great city of Herculaneum, may be completely buried +beneath them. Over this city the mud accumulated to the depth of over 70 +feet. In addition to these phenomena, molten lava often flows from the +lip of the crater, occasionally in vast quantities. In the Icelandic +eruption of 1783 the lava streams were so great in quantity as to fill +river gorges 600 ft. deep and 200 ft. wide, and to extend over an open +plain to a distance of 12 to 15 miles, forming lakes of lava 100 feet +deep. The volcanoes of Hawaii often send forth streams of lava which +cover an area of over 100 square miles to a great depth. + + +GREAT OUTFLOWS OF LAVA + + +In the course of ages lava outflows of this kind have built up in Hawaii +a volcanic mountain estimated to contain enough material to cover the +whole of the United States with a layer of rock 50 feet deep. These +great outflows of lava are not confined to mountains, but take place now +and then from openings in the ground, or from long cracks in the surface +rocks. Occasionally great eruptions have taken place beneath the +ocean's surface, throwing up material in sufficient quantity to form new +islands. + +The formation of mud is not confined to the method given, but great +quantities of this plastic material flow at times from volcanic craters. +In the year 1691 Imbaburu, one of the peaks of the Andes, sent out +floods of mud which contained dead fish in such abundance that their +decay caused a fever in the vicinity. The volcanoes of Java have often +buried large tracts of fertile country under volcanic mud. + +An observation of volcanoes shows us that they have three well marked +phases of action. The first of these is the state of permanent eruption, +as in case of the volcano of Stromboli in the Mediterranean. This state +is not a dangerous one, since the steam, escaping continually, acts as +a safety valve. The second stage is one of milder activity with an +occasional somewhat violent eruption; this is apt to be dangerous, +though not often very greatly so. The safety valve is partly out of +order. The third phase is one in which long periods of repose, sometimes +lasting for centuries, are followed by eruptions of intense energy. +These are often of extreme violence and cause widespread destruction. In +this case the safety valve has failed to work and the boiler bursts. + + +OFTEN REST FOR LONG TERMS OF YEARS + + +Such are the general features of action in the vast powers which +dwell deep beneath the surface, harmless in most parts of the earth, +frightfully perilous in others. Yet even here they often rest for long +terms of years in seeming apathy, until men gather above their lurking +places in multitudes, heedless or ignorant of the sleeping demons that +bide their time below. Their time is sure to come, after years, perhaps +after centuries. Suddenly the solid earth begins to tremble and quake; +roars as of one of the buried giants of old strike all men with dread; +then, with a fierce convulsion, a mountain is rent in twain and vast +torrents of steam, burning rock, and blinding dust are hurled far upward +into the air, to fall again and bury cities, perhaps, with all their +inhabitants in indiscriminate ruin and death. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Theories of Volcanic and Earthquake Action. + + +Though the first formation of a volcano (Italian, vulcano, from Vulcan, +the Roman god of fire) has seldom been witnessed, it would seem that it +is marked by earthquake movements followed by the opening of a rent or +fissure; but with no such tilting up of the rocks as was once supposed +to take place. From this fissure large volumes of steam issue, +accompanied by hydrogen, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, hydrochloric +acid, and sulphur dioxide. The hydrogen, apparently derived from the +dissociation of water at a high temperature, flashes explosively into +union with atmospheric oxygen, and, having exerted its explosive force, +the steam condenses into cloud, heavy masses of which overhang the +volcano, pouring down copious rains. This naturally disturbs the +electrical condition of the atmosphere, so that thunder and lightning +are frequent accompaniments of an eruption. The hydrochloric acid +probably points to the agency of sea-water. Besides the gases just +mentioned, sulphuretted hydrogen, ammonia and common salt occur; but +mainly as secondary products, formed by the union of the vapors issuing +from the volcano, and commonly found also in the vapors rising from +cooling lava streams or dormant volcanic districts. It is important to +notice that the vapors issue from the volcano spasmodically, explosions +succeeding each other with great rapidity and noise. + +All substances thrown out by the volcano, whether gaseous, liquid or +solid, are conveniently united under the term ejectamenta (Latin, things +thrown out), and all of them are in an intensely heated, if not an +incandescent state. Most of the gases are incombustible, but the +hydrogen and those containing sulphur burn with a true flame, perhaps +rendered more visible by the presence of solid particles. Much of the +so-called flame, however, in popular descriptions of eruptions is +an error of observation due to the red-hot solid particles and the +reflection of the glowing orifice on the over-hanging clouds. + + +ENORMOUS FORCE DISPLAYED + + +Solid bodies are thrown into the air with enormous force and to +proportionally great heights, those not projected vertically falling in +consequence at considerable distances from the volcano. A block weighing +200 tons is said to have been thrown nine miles by Cotopaxi; masses +of rock weighing as much as twenty tons to have been ejected by +Mount Ararat in 1840; and stones to have been hurled to a distance +of thirty-six miles in other cases. The solid matter thrown out by +volcanoes consists of lapilli, scoriae, dust and bombs. + +Though on the first formation of the volcano, masses of non-volcanic +rock may be torn from the chimney or pipe of the mountain, only slightly +fused externally owing to the bad conducting power of most rocks, +and hurled to a distance; and though at the beginning of a subsequent +eruption the solid plug of rock which has cooled at the bottom of the +crater, or, in fact, any part of the volcano, may be similarly blown up, +the bulk of the solid particles of which the volcano itself is composed +is derived from the lake of lava or molten rock which seethes at the +orifice. Solid pieces rent from this fused mass and cast up by the +explosive force of the steam with which the lava is saturated are known +as lapilli. Cooling rapidly so as to be glassy in texture externally, +these often have time to become perfectly crystalline within. + +Gases and steam escaping from other similar masses may leave them +hollow, when they are termed bombs, or may pit their surfaces with +irregular bubble-cavities, when they are called scoriae or scoriaceous. +Such masses whirling through the air in a plastic state often become +more or less oblately spheroidal in form; but, as often, the explosive +force of their contained vapors shatters them into fragments, producing +quantities of the finest volcanic dust or sand. This fine dust darkens +the clouds overhanging the mountain, mixes with the condensed steam to +fall as a black mud-rain, or lava di aqua (Italian, water lava), or +is carried up to enormous heights, and then slowly diffused by upper +currents of the atmosphere. In the eruption of Vesuvius of A.D. 79, the +air was dark as midnight for twelve or fifteen miles round; the city of +Pompeii was buried beneath a deposit of dry scoriae, or ashes and dust, +and Herculaneum beneath a layer of the mud-like lava di aqua, which on +drying sets into a compact rock. Rocks formed from these fragmentary +volcanic materials are known as tuff. + + +VOLCANIC CONES HAVE SIMILAR CURVATURES + + +It is entirely of these cindery fragments heaped up with marvellous +rapidity round the orifice that the volcano itself is first formed. It +may, as in the case of Jorullo in Mexico in 1759, form a cone several +hundred feet high in less than a day. Such a cone may have a slope as +steep as 30 or 40 degrees, its incline in all cases depending simply on +the angle of repose of its materials; the inclination, that is, at which +they stop rolling. The great volcanoes of the Andes, which are formed +mainly of ash, are very steep. Owing to a general similarity in their +materials, volcanic cones in all parts of the world have very similar +curvatures; but older volcanic mountains, in which lava-streams have +broken through the cone, secondary cones have arisen, or portions +have been blown up, are more irregular in outline and more gradual in +inclination. + +In size, volcanoes vary from mere mounds a few yards in diameter, such +as the salses or mud volcanoes near the Caspian, to Etna, 10,800 feet +high, with a base 30 miles in diameter; Cotopaxi, in the Andes, 18,887 +feet high; or Mauna Loa, in the Sandwich Isles, 13,700 feet high; with +a base 70 miles in diameter, and two craters, one of which, Kilauea, the +largest active crater on our earth, is seven miles in circuit. Larger +extinct craters occur in Japan; but all our terrestrial volcanic +mountains are dwarfed by those observed on the surface of the moon, +which, owing to its smaller size, has cooled more rapidly than our +earth. It is, of course, the explosive force from below which keeps +the crater clear, as a cup-shaped hollow, truncating the cone; and all +stones falling into it would be only thrown out again. It may at the +close of an eruption cool down so completely that a lake can form within +it, such as Lake Averno, near Naples; or it may long remain a seething +sea of lava, such as Kilauea; or the lava may find one or more outlets +from it, either by welling over its rim, which it will then generally +break down, as in many of the small extinct volcanoes ("puys") of +Auvergne, or more usually by bursting through the sides of the cone. + + +LAVA VARIES VERY MUCH IN LIQUIDITY + + +It is not generally until the volcano has exhausted its first explosive +force that lava begins to issue. Several streams may issue in different +directions. Their dimensions are sometimes enormous. Lava varies very +much in liquidity and in the rate at which it flows. This much depends, +however, upon the slope it has to traverse. A lava stream at Vesuvius +ran three miles in four minutes, but took three hours to flow the next +three miles, while a stream from Mauna Loa ran eighteen miles in two +hours. Glowing at first as a white-hot liquid, the lava soon cools at +the surface to red and then to black; cinder-like scoriaceous masses +form on its surface and in front of the slowly-advancing mass; clouds of +steam and other vapor rise from it, and little cones are thrown up +from its surface; but many years may elapse before the mass is cooled +through. Thus, while the surface is glassy, the interior becomes +crystalline. + +As to what are the causes of the great convulsions of nature known as +the volcano and the earthquake we know very little. Various theories +have been advanced, but nothing by any means sure has been discovered, +and considerable difference of opinion exists. In truth we know so +little concerning the conditions existing in the earth's interior +that any views concerning the forces at work there must necessarily be +largely conjectural. + +Sir Robert S. Ball says, in this connection: "Let us take, for instance, +that primary question in terrestrial physics, as to whether the interior +of the earth is liquid or solid. If we were to judge merely from the +temperatures reasonably believed to exist at a depth of some twenty +miles, and if we might overlook the question of pressure, we should +certainly say that the earth's interior must be in a fluid state. It +seems at least certain that the temperatures to be found at depths of +two score miles, and still more at greater depths, must be so high that +the most refractory solids, whether metals or minerals, would at once +yield if we could subject them to such temperatures in our laboratories. +But none of our laboratory experiments can tell us whether, under the +pressure of thousands of tons on the square inch, the application of +any heat whatever would be adequate to transform solids into liquids. +It may, indeed, be reasonably doubted whether the terms solid and +liquid are applicable, in the sense in which we understand them, to the +materials forming the interior of the earth. + +"A principle, already well known in the arts, is that many, if not all, +solids may be made to flow like liquids if only adequate pressure be +applied. The making of lead tubes is a well-known practical illustration +of this principle, for these tubes are formed simply by forcing solid +lead by the hydraulic press through a mould which imparts the desired +shape. + +"If then a solid can be made to behave like a liquid, even with such +pressures as are within our control, how are we to suppose that the +solids would behave with such pressures as those to which they are +subjected in the interior of the earth? The fact is that the terms solid +and liquid, at least as we understand them, appear to have no physical +meaning with regard to bodies subjected to these stupendous pressures, +and this must be carefully borne in mind when we are discussing the +nature of the interior of the earth." + + +THE VOLCANO A SAFETY VALVE + + +Whatever be the state of affairs in the depths of the earth's crust, we +may look upon the volcano as a sort of safety-valve, opening a passage +for the pent-up forces to the surface, and thus relieving the earth from +the terrible effects of the earthquake, through which these imprisoned +powers so often make themselves felt. Without the volcanic vent there +might be no safety for man on the earth's unquiet face. + +Professor J. C. Russell, of Michigan University, presents the following +views concerning the status and action of volcanoes:-- + +"When reduced to its simplest terms, a volcano may be defined as a +tube, or conduit, in the earth's crust, through which the molten rock is +forced to the surface. The conduit penetrates the cool and rigid rocks +forming the superficial portion of the earth, and reaches its highly +heated interior. + +"The length of volcanic conduits can only be conjectured, but, judging +from the approximately known rate of increase of heat with depth (on an +average one degree Fahrenheit for each sixty feet), and the temperature +at which volcanic rocks melt (from 2,300 to 2,700 degrees Fahrenheit, +when not under pressure), they must seemingly have a depth of at least +twenty miles. There are other factors to be considered, but in general +terms it is safe to assume that the conduits of volcanoes are irregular +openings, many miles in depth, which furnish passageways for molten +rock (lava) from the highly-heated sub-crust portion of the earth to its +surface. . . ." + + +ERUPTIONS OF QUIET TYPE + + +"During eruptions of the quiet type, the lava comes to the surface in a +highly liquid condition--that is, it is thoroughly fused, and flows with +almost the freedom of water. It spreads widely, even on a nearly level +plain, and may form a comparatively thin sheet several hundred square +miles in area, as has been observed in Iceland and Hawaii. On the Snake +River plains, in Southern Idaho, there are sheets of once molten rock +which were poured out in the manner just stated, some four hundred +square miles in area and not over seventy-five feet in average +thickness. When an eruption of highly liquid lava occurs in a +mountainous region, the molten rock may cascade down deep slopes and +flow through narrow valleys for fifty miles or more before becoming +chilled sufficiently to arrest its progress. Instances are abundant +where quiet eruptions have occurred in the midst of a plain, and +built up 'lava cones,' or low mounds, with immensely expanded bases. +Illustrations are furnished in Southern Idaho, in which the cones formed +are only three hundred or four hundred feet high, but have a breadth at +the base of eight or ten miles. In the class of eruption illustrated +by these examples, there is an absence of fragmental material, such as +explosive volcanoes hurl into the air, and a person may stand within +a few yards of a rushing stream of molten rock, or examine closely the +opening from which it is being poured out, without danger or serious +inconvenience. + +"The quiet volcanic eruptions are attended by the escape of steam or +gases from the molten rock, but the lava being in a highly liquid +state, the steam and gases dissolved in it escape quietly and without +explosions. If, however, the molten rock is less completely fluid, or +in a viscous condition, the vapors and gases contained in it find +difficulty in escaping, and may be retained until, becoming concentrated +in large volume, they break their way to the surface, producing violent +explosions. Volcanoes in which the lava extruded is viscous, and the +escape of steam and gases is retarded until the pent-up energy bursts +all bounds, are of the explosive, type. One characteristic example is +Vesuvius. + +"When steam escapes from the summit of a volcanic conduit--which, in +plain terms, is a tall vessel filled with intensely hot and more or less +viscous liquid--masses of the liquid rock are blown into the air, and on +falling build up a rim or crater about the place of discharge. Commonly +the lava in the summit portion of a conduit becomes chilled and perhaps +hardened, and when a steam explosion occurs this crust is shattered and +the fragments hurled into the air and contributed to the building of the +walls of the inclosing crater. + +"The solid rock blown out by volcanoes consists usually of highly +vesicular material which hardened on the surface of the column of lava +within a conduit and was shattered by explosions beneath it. These +fragments vary in size from dust particles up to masses several feet in +diameter, and during violent eruptions are hurled miles high. The larger +fragments commonly fall near their place of origin, and usually furnish +the principal part of the material of which craters are built, but the +gravel-like kernels, lapilli, may be carried laterally several miles +if a wind is blowing, while the dust is frequently showered down on +thousands of square miles of land and sea. The solid and usually angular +fragments manufactured in this manner vary in temperature, and may still +be red hot on falling. + +"Volcanoes of the explosive type not uncommonly discharge streams of +lava, which may flow many miles. In certain instances these outwellings +of liquid rock occur after severe earthquakes and violent explosions, +and may have all the characteristics of quiet eruptions. There is +thus no fundamental difference between the two types into which it is +convenient to divide volcanoes." + + +MOUNTAINS BLOW THEIR HEADS OFF + + +"In extreme examples of explosive volcanoes, the summit portion of a +crater, perhaps several miles in circumference and several thousand feet +high, is blown away. Such an occurrence is recorded in the case of +the volcano Coseguina, Nicaragua, in 1835. Or, an entire mountain may +disappear, being reduced to lapilli and dust and blown into the air, as +in the case of Krakatoa, in the Straits of Sunda, in 1883. + +"The essential feature of a volcano, as stated above, is a tube or +conduit, leading from the highly heated sub-crust portion of the earth +to the crater and through which molten rock is forced upward to the +surface. The most marked variations in the process depend on the +quantity of molten rock extruded, and on the freedom of escape of the +steam and gases contained in the lava. + +"The cause of the rise of the molten rock in a volcano is still a matter +for discussion. Certain geologists contend that steam is the sole motive +power; while others consider that the lava is forced to the surface +owing to pressure on the reservoir from which it comes. The view perhaps +most favorably entertained at present, in reference to the general +nature of volcanic eruptions, is that the rigid outer portion of the +earth becomes fractured, owing principally to movements resulting from +the shrinking of the cooling inner mass, and that the intensely hot +material reached by the fissures, previously solid owing to pressure, +becomes liquid when pressure is relieved, and is forced to the surface. +As the molten material rises it invades the water-charged rocks near +the surface and acquires steam, or the gases resulting from the +decomposition of water, and a new force is added which produces the +most conspicuous and at times the most terrible phenomena accompanying +eruptions." + +The active agency of water is strongly maintained by many geologists, +and certainly gains support from the vast clouds of steam given off by +volcanoes in eruption and the steady and quiet emission of steam from +many in a state of rest. The quantities of water in the liquid state, +to which is due the frequent enormous outflows of mud, leads to the +same conclusion. Many scientists, indeed, while admitting the agency of +water, look upon this as the aqueous material originally pent up +within the rocks. For instance Professor Shaler, dean of the Lawrence +Scientific School, says: + +"Volcanic outbreaks are merely the explosion of steam under high +pressure, steam which is bound in rocks buried underneath the surface +of the earth and there subjected to such tremendous heat that when the +conditions are right its pent-up energy breaks forth and it shatters +its stone prison walls into dust. The process by which the water becomes +buried in this manner is a long one. Some contend that it leaks down +from the surface of the earth through fissures in the outer crust, but +this theory is not generally accepted. The common belief is that water +enters the rocks during the crystalization period, and that these rocks +through the natural action of rivers and streams become deposited in the +bottom of the ocean. Here they lie for many ages, becoming buried deeper +and deeper under masses of like sediment, which are constantly being +washed down upon them from above. This process is called the blanketing +process. + +"Each additional layer of sediment, while not raising the level of the +sea bottom, buries the first layers just so much the deeper and adds to +their temperature just as does the laying of extra blankets on a bed. +When the first layer has reached a depth of a few thousand feet the +rocks which contain the water of crystalization are subjected to a +terrific heat. This heat generates steam, which is held in a state of +frightful tension in its rocky prison. Wrinklings in the outer crust of +the earth's surface occur, caused by the constant shrinking of the earth +itself and by the contraction of the outer surface as it settles on the +plastic centers underneath. Fissures are caused by these foldings, and +as these fissures reach down into the earth the pressure is removed from +the rocks and the compressed steam in them, being released, explodes +with tremendous force." + +This view is, very probably, applicable to many cases, and the +exceedingly fine dust which so often rises from volcanoes has, +doubtless, for one of its causes the sudden and explosive conversion of +water into steam in the interior of ejected lava, thus rending it into +innumerable fragments. But that this is the sole mode of action of water +in volcanic eruptions is very questionable. It certainly does not agree +with the immense volumes at times thrown out, while explosions of +such extreme intensity as that of Krakatoa very strongly lead to the +conclusion that a great mass of water has made its way through newly +opened fissures to the level of molten rock, and exploded into steam +with a suddenness which gave it the rending force of dynamite or the +other powerful chemical explosives. + +As the earthquake is so intimately associated with the volcano the +causes of the latter are in great measure the causes of the former, and +the forces at work frequently produce a more or less violent quaking of +the earth's surface before they succeed in opening a channel of escape +through the mountain's heart. One agency of great potency, and one whose +work never ceases, has doubtless much to do with earthquake action. +In the description of this we cannot do better than to quote from "The +Earth's Beginning" of Sir Robert S. Ball. + + +CAUSE OF EARTHQUAKES + + +"As to the immediate cause of earthquakes there is no doubt considerable +difference of opinion. But I think it will not be doubted that an +earthquake is one of the consequences, though perhaps a remote one, of +the gradual loss of internal heat from the earth. As this terrestrial +heat is gradually declining, it follows from the law that we have +already so often had occasion to use that the bulk of the earth must be +shrinking. No doubt the diminution in the earth's diameter due to the +loss of heat must be exceedingly small, even in a long period of time. +The cause, however, is continually in operation, and, accordingly, the +crust of the earth has from time to time to be accommodated to the fact +that the whole globe is lessening. The circumference of our earth at +the equator must be gradually declining; a certain length in that +circumference is lost each year. We may admit that loss to be a quantity +far too small to be measured by any observations as yet obtainable, but, +nevertheless, it is productive of phenomena so important that it cannot +be overlooked. + +"It follows from these considerations that the rocks which form the +earth's crust over the surface of the continents and the islands, or +beneath the bed of the ocean, must have a lessening acreage year +by year. These rocks must therefore submit to compression, either +continuously or from time to time, and the necessary yielding of the +rocks will in general take place in those regions where the materials +of the earth's crust happen to have comparatively small powers of +resistance. The acts of compression will often, and perhaps generally, +not proceed with uniformity, but rather with small successive shifts, +and even though the displacements of the rocks in these shifts be +actually very small, yet the pressures to which the rocks are subjected +are so vast that a very small shift may correspond to a very great +terrestrial disturbance. + +"Suppose, for instance, that there is a slight shift in the rocks on +each side of a crack, or fault, at a depth of ten miles. It must be +remembered that the pressure ten miles down would be about thirty-five +tons to the square inch. Even a slight displacement of one extensive +surface over another, the sides being pressed together with a force of +thirty-five tons on the square inch, would be an operation necessarily +accompanied by violence greatly exceeding that which we might expect +from so small a displacement if the forces concerned had been of more +ordinary magnitude. On account of this great multiplication of the +intensity of the phenomenon, merely a small rearrangement of the +rocks in the crust of the earth, in pursuance of the necessary work of +accommodating its volume to the perpetual shrinkage, might produce an +excessively violent shock, extending far and wide. The effect of such a +shock would be propagated in the form of waves through the globe, just +as a violent blow given at one end of a bar of iron by a hammer is +propagated through the bar in the form of waves. When the effect of this +internal adjustment reaches the earth's surface it will sometimes be +great enough to be perceptible in the shaking it gives that surface. The +shaking may be so violent that buildings may not be able to withstand +it. Such is the phenomenon of an earthquake. + +"When the earth is shaken by one of those occasional adjustments of the +crust which I have described, the wave that spreads like a pulsation +from the centre of agitation extends all over our globe and is +transmitted right through it. At the surface lying immediately over the +centre of disturbance there will be a violent shock. In the surrounding +country, and often over great distances, the earthquake may also be +powerful enough to produce destructive effects. The convulsion may also +be manifested over a far larger area of country in a way which makes the +shock to be felt, though the damage wrought may not be appreciable. +But beyond a limited distance from the centre of the agitation the +earthquake will produce no destructive effects upon buildings, and +will not even cause vibrations that would be appreciable to ordinary +observation." + + +THE RADIUS OF DISTURBANCE. + + +"In each locality in which earthquakes are chronic it would seem as if +there must be a particularly weak spot in the earth some miles below +the surface. A shrinkage of the earth, in the course of the incessant +adjustment between the interior and the exterior, will take place by +occasional little jumps at this particular centre. The fact that there +is this weak spot at which small adjustments are possible may provide, +as it were, a safety-valve for other places in the same part of +the world. Instead of a general shrinking, the materials would be +sufficiently elastic and flexible to allow the shrinking for a very +large area to be done at this particular locality. In this way we may +explain the fact that immense tracts on the earth are practically free +from earthquakes of a serious character, while in the less fortunate +regions the earthquakes are more or less perennial. + +"Now, suppose an earthquake takes place in Japan, it originates a series +of vibrations through our globe. We must here distinguish between the +rocks--I might almost say the comparatively pliant rocks--which form +the earth's crust, and those which form the intensely rigid core of the +interior of our globe. The vibrations which carry the tidings of the +earthquake spread through the rocks on the surface, from the centre of +the disturbance, in gradually enlarging circles. We may liken the spread +of these vibrations to the ripples in a pool of water which diverge from +the spot where a raindrop has fallen. The vibrations transmitted by +the rocks on the surface, or on the floor of the ocean, will carry the +message all over the earth. As these rocks are flexible, at all +events by comparison with the earth's interior, the vibrations will be +correspondingly large, and will travel with vigor over land and under +sea. In due time they reach, say the Isle of Wight, where they set the +pencil of the seismometer at work. But there are different ways round +the earth from Japan to the Isle of Wight, the most direct route being +across Asia and Europe; the other route across the Pacific, America, and +the Atlantic. The vibrations will travel by both routes, and the former +is the shorter of the two." + + +TRANSMISSIONS OF VIBRATIONS + + +Some brief repetition may not here be amiss as to the products of +volcanic action, of which so much has been said in the preceding +pages, especially as many of the terms are to some extent technical in +character. The most abundant of these substances is steam or water-gas, +which, as we have seen, issues in prodigious quantities during every +eruption. But with the steam a great number of other volatile materials +frequently make their appearance. Though we have named a number of these +at the beginning of this chapter, it will not be out of order to +repeat them here. The chief among these are the acid gases known as +hydrochloric acid, sulphurous acid, sulphuretted hydrogen, carbonic +acid, and boracic acid; and with these acid gases there issue hydrogen, +nitrogen ammonia, the volatile metals arsenic, antimony, and mercury, +and some other substances. These volatile substances react upon one +another, and many new compounds are thus formed. By the action of +sulphurous acid and sulphuretted hydrogen on each other, the sulphur +so common in volcanic districts is separated and deposited. The +hydrochloric acid acts very energetically on the rocks around the vents, +uniting with the iron in them to form the yellow ferric-chloride, which +often coats the rocks round the vent and is usually mistaken by casual +observers for sulphur. + +Some of the substances emitted by volcanic vents, such as hydrogen and +sulphuretted hydrogen, are inflammable, and when they issue at a high +temperature these gases burst into flame the moment that they come +into contact with the air. Hence, when volcanic fissures are watched at +night, faint lambent flames are frequently seen playing over them, and +sometimes these flames are brilliantly colored, through the presence +of small quantities of certain metallic oxides. Such volcanic flames, +however, are scarcely ever strongly luminous, and the red, glowing light +which is observed over volcanic mountains in eruption is due to quite +another cause. What is usually taken for flame during a volcanic +eruption is simply, as we have before stated, the glowing light of the +surface of a mass of red-hot lava reflected from the cloud of vapor and +dust in the air, much as the lights of a city are reflected from the +water vapor of the atmosphere during a night of fog. + +Besides the volatile substances which issue from volcanic vents, +mingling with the atmosphere or condensing upon their sides, there +are many solid materials ejected, and these may accumulate around the +orifice's till they build up mountains of vast dimensions, like Etna, +Teneriffe, and Chimborazo. Some of these solid materials are evidently +fragments of the rock-masses, through which the volcanic fissure has +been rent; these fragments have been carried upwards by the force of +the steam-blast and scattered over the sides of the volcano. But the +principal portion of the solid materials ejected from volcanic orifices +consists of matter which has been extruded from sources far beneath the +surface, in highly-heated and fluid or semi-fluid condition. + +It is to these materials that the name of "lavas" is properly applied. +Lavas present a general resemblance to the slags and clinkers which +are formed in our furnaces and brick-kilns, and consist, like them, of +various stony substances which have been more or less perfectly fused. +When we come to study the chemical composition and the microscopical +structure of lavas, however, we shall find that there are many respects +in which they differ entirely from these artificial products, they +consisting chiefly of felspar, or of this substance in association with +augite or hornblende. In texture they may be stony, glassy, resin-like, +vesicular or cellular and light in weight, as in the case of pumice or +scoria. + + +FLOATING PUMICE + + +The steam and other gases rising through liquid lava are apt to produce +bubbles, yielding a surface froth or foam. This froth varies greatly +in character according to the nature of the material from which it is +formed. In the majority of cases the lavas consist of a mass of crystals +floating in a liquid magma, and the distension of such a mass by the +escape of steam from its midst gives rise to the formation of the rough +cindery-looking material to which the name of "scoria" is applied. But +when the lava contains no ready-formed crystals, but consists entirely +of a glassy substance in a more or less perfect state of fusion, +the liberation of steam gives rise to the formation of the beautiful +material known as "pumice." Pumice consists of a mass of minute glass +bubbles; these bubbles do not usually, however, retain their globular +form, but are elongated in one direction through the movement of +the mass while it is still in a plastic state. The quantity of this +substance ejected is often enormous. We have seen to what a vast extent +it was thrown out from the crater of Krakatoa. During the year 1878, +masses of floating pumice were reported as existing in the vicinity of +the Solomon Isles, and covering the surface of the sea to such extent +that it took ships three days to force their way through them. Sometimes +this substance accumulates in such quantities along coasts that it is +difficult to determine the position of the shore within a mile or two, +as we may land and walk about on the great floating raft of pumice. +Recent deep-sea soundings, carried on in the Challenger and other +vessels, have shown that the bottom of the deepest portion of the ocean, +far away from the land, is covered with volcanic materials which have +been carried through the air or have floated on the surface of the +ocean. + +Fragments of scoria or pumice may be thrown hundreds or thousands of +feet into the atmosphere, those that fall into the crater and are flung +up again being gradually reduced in size by friction. Thus it is related +by Mr. Poulett Scrope, who watched the Vesuvian eruption of 1822, +which lasted for nearly a month, that during the earlier stages of the +outburst fragments of enormous size were thrown out of the crater, but +by constant re-ejection these were gradually reduced in size, till +at last only the most impalpable dust issued from the vent. This dust +filled the atmosphere, producing in the city of Naples "a darkness that +might be felt." So excessively finely divided was it, that it penetrated +into all drawers, boxes, and the most closely fastened receptacles, +filling them completely. The fragmentary materials ejected from +volcanoes are often given the name of cinders or ashes. These, however, +are terms of convenience only, and do not properly describe the volcanic +material. + +Sometimes the passages of steam through a mass of molten glass produces +large quantities of a material resembling spun glass. Small particles of +this glass are carried into the air and leave behind them thin, glassy +filaments like a tail. At the volcano of Kilauea in Hawaii, this +substance, as previously stated, is abundantly produced, and is known +as 'Pele's Hair'--Pele being the name of the goddess of the mountain. +Birds' nests are sometimes found composed of this beautiful material. +In recent years an artificial substance similar to this Pele's hair +has been extensively manufactured by passing jets of steam through the +molten slag of iron-furnaces; it resembles cotton-wool, but is made up +of fine threads of glass, and is employed for the packing of boilers and +other purposes. + +The lava itself, as left in huge deposits upon the surface, assumes +various forms, some crystalline, others glassy. The latter is usually +found in the condition known as obsidian, ordinarily black in color, +and containing few or no crystals. It is brittle, and splits into +sharp-edged or pointed fragments, which were used by primitive peoples +for arrow-heads, knives and other cutting implements. The ancient +Mexicans used bits of it for shaving purposes, it having an edge of +razor-like sharpness. They also used it as the cutting part of their +weapons of war. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +The Active Volcanoes of the Earth. + + +It is not by any means an easy task to frame an estimate of the number +of volcanoes in the world. Volcanoes vary greatly in their dimensions, +from vast mountain masses, rising to a height of nearly 25,000 feet +above sea-level, to mere molehills. They likewise exhibit every possible +stage of development and decay: while some are in a state of chronic +active eruption, others are reduced to the condition of solfataras, or +vents emitting acid vapors, and others again have fallen into a more or +less complete state of ruin through the action of denuding forces. + + +NUMBER OF ACTIVE VOLCANOES + + +Even if we confine our attention to the larger volcanoes, which merit +the name of mountains, and such of these as we have reason to believe to +be in a still active condition, our difficulties will be diminished, but +not by any means removed. Volcanoes may sink into a dormant condition +that at times endures for hundreds or even thousands of years, and +then burst forth into a state of renewed activity; and it is quite +impossible, in many cases, to distinguish between the conditions of +dormancy and extinction. + +We shall, however, probably be within the limits of truth in stating +that the number of great habitual volcanic vents upon the globe which +we have reason to believe are still in active condition, is somewhere +between 300 and 350. Most of these are marked by more or less +considerable mountains, composed of the materials ejected from them. +But if we include mountains which exhibit the external conical form, +crater-like hollows, and other features of volcanoes, yet concerning the +activity of which we have no record or tradition, the number will fall +little, if anything, short of 1,000. + +The mountains composed of volcanic materials, but which have lost +through denudation the external form of volcanoes, are still more +numerous, and the smaller temporary openings which are usually +subordinate to the habitual vents that have been active during the +periods covered by history and tradition, must be numbered by thousands. +There are still feebler manifestations of the volcanic forces--such as +steam-jets, geysers, thermal and mineral waters, spouting saline and +muddy springs, and mud volcanoes--that may be reckoned by millions. +It is not improbable that these less powerful manifestations of the +volcanic forces to a great extent make up in number what they want in +individual energy; and the relief which they afford to the imprisoned +activities within the earth's crust may be almost equal to that which +results from the occasional outbursts at the great habitual volcanic +vents. + +In taking a general survey of the volcanic phenomena of the globe, +no facts come out more strikingly than that of the very unequal +distribution, both of the great volcanoes, and of the minor exhibitions +of subterranean energy. + +Thus, on the whole of the continent of Europe, there is but one habitual +volcanic vent--that of Vesuvius--and this is situated upon the shores of +the Mediterranean. In the islands of that sea, however there are no +less than six volcanoes: namely, Stromboli, and Vulcano, in the Lipari +Islands; Etna, in Sicily; Graham's Isle, a submarine volcano, off the +Sicilian coast; and Santorin and Nisyros, in the Aegean Sea. + +The African continent is at present known to contain about ten active +volcanoes--four on the west coast, and six on the east coast, while +about ten other active volcanoes occur on islands close to the African +coasts. On the continent of Asia, more than twenty active volcanoes +are known or believed to exist, but no less than twelve of these are +situated in the peninsula of Kamchatka. No volcanoes are known to exist +in the Australian continent. + +The American continent contains a greater number of volcanoes than +the continents of the Old World. There are twenty in North America, +twenty-five in Central America, and thirty-seven in South America. Thus, +taken altogether, there are about one hundred and seventeen volcanoes +situated on the great continental lands of the globe, while nearly twice +as many occur upon the islands scattered over the various oceans. + + +ASIATIC INLAND VOLCANOES + + +Upon examining further into the distribution of the continental +volcanoes, another very interesting fact presents itself. The volcanoes +are in almost every instance situated either close to the coasts of the +continent, or at no great distance from them. There are, indeed, only +two exceptions to this rule. In the great and almost wholly unexplored +table-land lying between Siberia and Tibet four volcanoes are said to +exist, and in the Chinese province of Manchuria several others. More +reliable information is, however, needed concerning these volcanoes. + +It is a remarkable circumstance that all the oceanic islands which +are not coral-reefs are composed of volcanic rocks; and many of +these oceanic islands, as well as others lying near the shores of the +continents, contain active volcanoes. + +Through the midst of the Atlantic Ocean runs a ridge, which, by the +soundings of the various exploring vessels sent out in recent years, has +been shown to divide the ocean longitudinally into two basins. Upon this +great ridge, and the spurs proceeding from it, rise numerous mountainous +masses, which constitute the well-known Atlantic islands and groups +of islands. All of these are of volcanic origin, and among them are +numerous active volcanoes. The Island of Jan Mayen contains an active +volcano, and Iceland contains thirteen, and not improbably more; the +Azores have six active volcanoes, the Canaries three; while about eight +volcanoes lie off the west coast of Africa. In the West Indies there are +six active volcanoes; and three submarine volcanoes have been recorded +within the limits of the Atlantic Ocean. Altogether, no less than forty +active volcanoes are situated upon the great submarine ridges which +traverse the Atlantic longitudinally. + +But along the same line the number of extinct volcanoes is far greater, +and there are not wanting proofs that the volcanoes which are still +active are approaching the condition of extinction. + + +VOLCANOES OF THE PACIFIC + + +If the great medial chain of the Atlantic presents us with an example of +a chain of volcanic mountains verging on extinction, we have in the +line of islands separating the Pacific and Indian Oceans an example of a +similar range of volcanic vents which are in a condition of the +greatest activity. In the peninsula of Kamchatka there are twelve active +volcanoes, in the Aleutian Islands thirty-one, and in the peninsula +of Alaska three. The chain of the Kuriles contains at least ten active +volcanoes; the Japanese Islands and the islands to the south of Japan +twenty-five. The great group of islands lying to the south-east of the +Asiatic continent is at the present time the grandest focus of volcanic +activity upon the globe. No less than fifty active volcanoes occur here. + +Farther south, the same chain is probably continued by the four active +volcanoes of New Guinea, one or more submarine volcanoes, and several +vents in New Britain, the Solomon Isles, and the New Hebrides, the three +active volcanoes of New Zealand, and possibly by Mount Erebus and Mount +Terror in the Antarctic region. Altogether, no less than 150 active +volcanoes exist in the chain of islands which stretch from Behring's +Straits down to the Antarctic circle; and if we include the volcanoes +on Indian and Pacific Islands which appear to be situated on lines +branching from this particular band, we shall not be wrong in the +assertion that this great system of volcanic mountains includes at least +one half of the habitually active vents of the globe. In addition to +the active vents, there are here several hundred very perfect volcanic +cones, many of which appear to have recently become extinct, though some +of them may be merely dormant, biding their time. + +A third series of volcanoes starts from the neighborhood of Behring's +Straits, and stretches along the whole western coast of the American +continent. This is much less continuous, but nevertheless very +important, and contains, with its branches, nearly a hundred active +volcanoes. On the north this great band is almost united with the one +we have already described by the chain of the Aleutian and Alaska +volcanoes. In British Columbia about the parallel of 60 degrees N. there +exist a number of volcanic mountains, one of which, Mount St. Elias, is +believed to be 18,000 feet in height. Farther south, in the territory of +the United States, a number of grand volcanic mountains exist, some of +which are probably still active, for geysers and other manifestations of +volcanic activity abound. From the southern extremity of the peninsula +of California an almost continuous chain of volcanoes stretches through +Mexico and Guatemala, and from this part of the volcanic band a branch +is given off which passes through the West Indies, and contains the +volcanoes which have so recently given evidence of their vital activity. + +In South America the line is continued by the active volcanoes of +Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile, but at many intermediate points in the chain +of the Andes extinct volcanoes occur, which to a great extent fill up +the gaps in the series. A small offshoot to the westward passes through +the Galapagos Islands. The great band of volcanoes which stretches +through the American continent is second only in importance, and in the +activity of its vents, to the band which divides the Pacific from the +Indian Ocean. + +The third volcanic band of the globe is that, already spoken of, +which traverses the Atlantic Ocean from north to south. This series of +volcanic mountains is much more broken and interrupted than the other +two, and a greater proportion of its vents are extinct. It attained its +condition of maximum activity during the distant period of the Miocene, +and now appears to be passing into a state of gradual extinction. + +Beginning in the north with the volcanic rocks of Greenland and Bear +Island, we pass southwards, by way of Jan Mayen, Iceland and the Faroe +Islands, to the Hebrides and the north of Ireland. Thence, by way of +the Azores, the Canaries and the Cape de Verde Islands, with some active +vents, we pass to the ruined volcanoes of St. Paul, Fernando de Noronha, +Ascension, St. Helena, Trinidad and Tristan da Cunha. From this great +Atlantic band two branches proceed to the eastward, one through Central +Europe, where all the vents are now extinct, and the other through the +Mediterranean to Asia Minor, the great majority of the volcanoes along +the latter line being now extinct, though a few are still active. The +volcanoes on the eastern coast of Africa may be regarded as situated on +another branch from this Atlantic volcanic band. The number of active +volcanoes on this Atlantic band and its branches, exclusive of those in +the West Indies, does not exceed fifty. + + +THIAN SHAN AND HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES + + +From what has been said, it will be seen that the volcanoes of the globe +not only usually assume a linear arrangement, but nearly the whole of +them can be shown to be thrown up along three well-marked bands and the +branches proceeding from them. The first and most important of these +bands is nearly 10,000 miles in length, and with its branches contains +more than 150 active volcanoes; the second is 8,000 miles in length, and +includes about 100 active volcanoes; the third is much more broken and +interrupted, extends to a length of nearly 1,000 miles, and contains +about 50 active vents. The volcanoes of the eastern coast of Africa, +with Mauritius, Bourbon, Rodriguez, and the vents along the line of the +Red Sea, may be regarded as forming a fourth and subordinate band. + +Thus we see that the surface of the globe is covered by a network of +volcanic bands, all of which traverse it in sinuous lines with a general +north-and-south direction, giving off branches which often run for +hundreds of miles, and sometimes appear to form a connection between the +great bands. + +To this rule of the linear arrangement of the volcanic vents of the +globe, and their accumulation along certain well-marked bands, there are +two very striking exceptions, which we must now proceed to notice. + +In the very centre of the continent formed by Europe and Asia, the +largest unbroken land-mass of the globe, there rises from the great +central plateau the remarkable volcanoes of the Thian Shan Range. The +existence of these volcanoes, of which only obscure traditional accounts +had reached Europe before the year 1858, appears to be completely +established by the researches of recent Russian and Swedish travelers. +Three volcanic vents appear to exist in this region, and other volcanic +phenomena have been stated to occur in the great plateau of Central +Asia, but the existence of the latter appears to rest on very doubtful +evidence. The only accounts which we have of the eruptions of these +Thian Shan volcanoes are contained in Chinese histories and treatises on +geography. + +The second exceptionally situated volcanic group is that of the Hawaiian +Islands. While the Thian Shan volcanoes rise in the centre of the +largest unbroken land-mass, and stand on the edge of the loftiest and +greatest plateau in the world, the volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands +rise in the northern centre of the largest ocean and from almost the +greatest depths in that ocean. All round the Hawaiian Islands the +sea has a depth of from 2,000 to 3,000 fathoms, and the island-group +culminates in several volcanic cones, which rise to the height of nearly +14,000 feet above the sea-level. The volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands +are unsurpassed in height and bulk by those of any other part of the +globe. + +With the exception of the two isolated groups of the Thian Shan and +the Hawaiian Islands, nearly all the active volcanoes of the globe are +situated near the limits which separate the great land-and-water-masses +of the globe--that is to say, they occur either on the parts of +continents not far removed from their coast-lines, or on islands in +the ocean not very far distant from the shores. The fact of the general +proximity of volcanoes to the sea is one which has frequently been +pointed out by geographers, and may now be regarded as being thoroughly +established. + + +VOLCANOES PARALLEL TO MOUNTAIN CHAINS + + +Many of the grandest mountain-chains have bands of volcanoes +lying parallel to them. This is strikingly exhibited by the great +mountain-masses which lie on the western side of the American continent. +The Rocky Mountains and the Andes consist of folded and crumpled masses +of altered strata which, by the action of denuding forces, have been +carved into series of ridges and summits. At many points, however, along +the sides of these great chains we find that fissures have been opened +and lines of volcanoes formed, from which enormous quantities of lava +have flowed and covered great tracts of country. + +This is especially marked in the Snake River plain of Idaho, in the +western United States. In this, and the adjoining regions of Oregon and +Washington, an enormous tract of country has been overflowed by lava in +a late geological period, the surface covered being estimated to have a +larger area than France and Great Britain combined. The Snake River cuts +through it in a series of picturesque gorges and rapids, enabling us to +estimate its thickness, which is considered to average 4000 feet. Looked +at from any point on its surface, one of these lava-plains appears as a +vast level surface, like that of a lake bottom. This uniformity has been +produced either by the lava rolling over a plain or lake bottom, or by +the complete effacement of an original, undulating contour of the ground +under hundreds or thousands of feet of lava in successive sheets. +The lava, rolling up to the base of the mountains, has followed +the sinuosities of their margin, as the waters of a lake follow its +promontories and bays. Similar conditions exist along the Sierra Nevada +range of California, and to some extent placer mining has gone on under +immense beds of lava, by a process of tunneling beneath the volcanic +rock. + +In some localities the volcanoes are of such height and dimensions as +to overlook and dwarf the mountain-ranges by the side of which they lie. +Some of the volcanoes lying parallel to the great American axis appear +to be quite extinct, while others are in full activity. In the Eastern +continent we find still more striking examples of parallelism between +great mountain-chains and the lands along which volcanic activity is +exhibited--volcanoes, active or extinct, following the line of the great +east and west chains which extend through southern Europe and Asia. +There are some other volcanic bands which exhibit a similar parallelism +with mountain chains; but, on the other hand, there are volcanoes +between which and the nearest mountain-axis no such connection can be +traced. + + +AREAS OF UPHEAVAL AND SUBSIDENCE + + +There is one other fact concerning the mode of distribution of volcanoes +upon the surface of the globe, to which we must allude. By a study +of the evidences presented by coral-reefs, raised beaches, submerged +forests, and other phenomena of a similar kind, it can be shown that +certain wide areas of the land and of the ocean-floor are at the present +time in a state of subsidence, while other equally large areas are +being upheaved. And the observations of the geologist prove that similar +upward and downward movements of portions of the earth's crust have been +going on through all geological times. + +Now, as Mr. Darwin has so well shown in his work on "Coral Reefs," if we +trace upon a map the areas of the earth's surface which are undergoing +upheaval and subsidence respectively, we shall find that nearly all the +active volcanoes of the globe are situated upon rising areas and that +volcanic phenomena are conspicuously absent from those parts of the +earth's crust which can be proved at the present day to be undergoing +depression. + +The remarkable linear arrangement of volcanic vents has a significance +that is well worthy of fuller consideration. There are facts known which +point to the cause of this state of affairs. It is not uncommon for +small cones of scoriae to be seen following lines on the flanks or at +the base of a great volcanic mountain. These are undoubtedly lines of +fissure, caused by the subterranean forces. In fact, such fissures have +been seen opening on the sides of Mount Etna, in whose bottom could +be seen the glowing lava. Along these fissures, in a few days, scoriae +cones appeared; on one occasion no less than thirty-six in number. + +It is believed by geologists that the linear systems of volcanoes are +ranged along similar lines of fissure in the earth's crust--enormous +breaks, extending for thousands of miles, and the result of internal +energies acting through vast periods of time. Along these immense +fissures in the earth's rock-crust there appear, in place of small +scoriae cones, great volcanoes, built up through the ages by a series of +powerful eruptions, and only ceasing to spout fire themselves when the +portion of the great crack upon which they lie is closed. The greatest +of these fissures is that along the vast sinuous band of volcanoes +extending from near the Arctic circle at Behring's Straits to the +Antarctic circle at South Victoria Land, not far from half round the +earth. It doubtless marks the line of mighty forces which have been +active for millions of years. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +The Famous Vesuvius and the Destruction of Pompeii. + + +The famous volcano of southern Italy named Vesuvius, which is now so +constantly in eruption, was described by the ancients as a cone-shaped +mountain with a flat top, on which was a deep circular valley filled +with vines and grass, and surrounded by high precipices. A large +population lived on the sides of the mountain, which was covered with +beautiful woods, and there were fine flourishing cities at its foot. So +little was the terrible nature of the valley on the top understood, that +in A. D. 72, Spartacus, a rebellious Roman gladiator, encamped there +with some thousands of fighting men, and the Roman soldiers were let +down the precipices in order to surprise and capture them. + +There had been earthquakes around the mountain, and one of the cities +had been nearly destroyed; but no one was prepared for what occurred +seven years after the defeat of Spartacus. Suddenly, in the year 79 +A. D., a terrific rush of smoke, steam, and fire belched from the +mountain's summit; one side of the valley in which Spartacus had +encamped was blown off, and its rocks, with vast quantities of ashes, +burning stones, and sand, were ejected far into the sky. They then +spread out like a vast pall, and fell far and wide. For eight days +and nights this went on, and the enormous quantity of steam sent up, +together with the deluge of rain that fell, produced torrents on the +mountain-side, which, carrying onward the fallen ashes, overwhelmed +everything in their way. Sulphurous vapors filled the air and violent +tremblings of the earth were constant. + +A city six miles off was speedily rendered uninhabitable, and was +destroyed by the falling stones; but two others--Herculaneum and +Pompeii--which already had suffered from the down-pour of ashes, were +gradually filled with a flood of water, sand, and ashes, which came down +the side of the volcano, and covering them entirely. + + +BURIED CITIES EXCAVATED. + + +The difference in ease of excavation is due to the following +circumstance. Herculaneum being several miles nearer the crater, +was buried in a far more consistent substance, seemingly composed of +volcanic ashes cemented by mud; Pompeii, on the contrary, was +buried only in ashes and loose stones. The casts of statues found in +Herculaneum show the plastic character of the material that fell there, +which time has hardened to rock-like consistency. + +These statues represented Hercules and Cleopatra, and the theatre proved +to be that of the long-lost city of Herculaneum. The site of Pompeii was +not discovered until forty years afterward, but work there proved far +easier than at Herculaneum, and more progress was made in bringing it +back to the light of day. + +The less solid covering of Pompeii has greatly facilitated the work of +excavation, and a great part of the city has been laid bare. Many of its +public buildings and private residences are now visible, and some whole +streets have been cleared, while a multitude of interesting relics have +been found. Among those are casts of many of the inhabitants, obtained +by pouring liquid plaster into the ash moulds that remained of them. +We see them to-day in the attitude and with the expression of agony and +horror with which death met them more than eighteen centuries ago. + +In succeeding eruptions much lava was poured out; and in A. D. 472, +ashes were cast over a great part of Europe, so that much fear was +caused at Constantinople. The buried cities were more and more covered +up, and it was not until about A. D. 1700 that, as above stated, the +city of Herculaneum was discovered, the peasants of the vicinity being +in the habit of extracting marble from its ruins. They had also, in the +course of years, found many statues. In consequence, an excavation was +ordered by Charles III, the earliest result being the discovery of the +theatre, with the statues above named. The work of excavation, +however, has not progressed far in this city, on account of its extreme +difficulty, though various excellent specimens of art-work have been +discovered, including the finest examples of mural painting extant from +antiquity. The library was also discovered, 1803 papyri being found. +Though these had been charred to cinder, and were very difficult to +unroll and decipher, over 300 of them have been read. + + +PLINY'S CELEBRATED DESCRIPTION + + +Pliny the Younger, to whom we are indebted for the only contemporary +account of the great eruption under consideration, was at the time of +its occurrence resident with his mother at Misenum, where the Roman +fleet lay, under the command of his uncle, the great author of the +"Historia Naturalis". His account, contained in two letters to Tacitus +(lib. vi. 16, 20), is not so much a narrative of the eruption, as a +record of his uncle's singular death, yet it is of great interest as +yielding the impressions of an observer. The translation which follows +is adopted from the very free version of Melmoth, except in one or two +places, where it differs much from the ordinary text. The letters are +given entire, though some parts are rather specimens of style than good +examples of description. + +"Your request that I should send an account of my uncle's death, in +order to transmit a more exact relation of it to posterity, deserves my +acknowledgments; for if this accident shall be celebrated by your pen, +the glory of it, I am assured, will be rendered forever illustrious. +And, notwithstanding he perished by a misfortune which, as it involved +at the same time a most beautiful country in ruins, and destroyed so +many populous cities, seems to promise him an everlasting remembrance; +notwithstanding he has himself composed many and lasting works; yet I +am persuaded the mention of him in your immortal works will greatly +contribute to eternize his name. Happy I esteem those to be, whom +Providence has distinguished with the abilities either of doing such +actions as are worthy of being related, or of relating them in a manner +worthy of being read; but doubly happy are they who are blessed with +both these talents; in the number of which my uncle, as his own writings +and your history will prove, may justly be ranked. It is with extreme +willingness, therefore, that I execute your commands; and should, +indeed, have claimed the task if you had not enjoined it. + +"He was at that time with the fleet under his command at Misenum. On +the 24th of August, about one in the afternoon, my mother desired him to +observe a cloud which appeared of a very unusual size and shape. He had +just returned from taking the benefit of the sun, and, after bathing +himself in cold water, and taking a slight repast, had retired to his +study. He immediately arose, and went out upon an eminence, from whence +he might more distinctly view this very uncommon appearance. It was not +at that distance discernible from what mountain the cloud issued, but it +was found afterward to ascend from Mount Vesuvius. I cannot give a more +exact description of its figure than by comparing it to that of a pine +tree, for it shot up to a great height in the form of a trunk, which +extended itself at the top into a sort of branches; occasioned, I +imagine, either by a sudden gust of air that impelled it, the force +of which decreased as it advanced upwards, or the cloud itself being +pressed back again by its own weight, and expanding in this manner: it +appeared sometimes bright, and sometimes dark and spotted, as it was +more or less impregnated with earth and cinders. + +"This extraordinary phenomenon excited my uncle's philosophical +curiosity to take a nearer view of it. He ordered a light vessel to be +got ready, and gave me the liberty, if I thought proper, to attend him. +I rather chose to continue my studies, for, as it happened, he had given +me an employment of that kind. As he was passing out of the house he +received dispatches: the marines at Retina, terrified at the imminent +peril (for the place lay beneath the mountain, and there was no retreat +but by ships), entreated his aid in this extremity. He accordingly +changed his first design, and what he began with a philosophical he +pursued with an heroical turn of mind." + + +THE VOYAGE TO STABIAE + + +"He ordered the galleys to put to sea, and went himself on board with +an intention of assisting not only Retina but many other places, for the +population is thick on that beautiful coast. When hastening to the place +from whence others fled with the utmost terror, he steered a direct +course to the point of danger, and with so much calmness and presence of +mind, as to be able to make and dictate his observations upon the motion +and figure of that dreadful scene. He was now so nigh the mountain that +the cinders, which grew thicker and hotter the nearer he approached, +fell into the ships, together with pumice-stones, and black pieces of +burning rock; they were in danger of not only being left aground by the +sudden retreat of the sea, but also from the vast fragments which rolled +down from the mountain, and obstructed all the shore. + +"Here he stopped to consider whether he should return back again; to +which the pilot advised him. 'Fortune,' said he, 'favors the brave; +carry me to Pomponianus.' Pomponianus was then at Stabiae, separated by +a gulf, which the sea, after several insensible windings, forms upon +the shore. He (Pomponianus) had already sent his baggage on board; for +though he was not at that time in actual danger, yet being within view +of it, and indeed extremely near, if it should in the least increase, he +was determined to put to sea as soon as the wind should change. It was +favorable, however, for carrying my uncle to Pomponianus, whom he +found in the greatest consternation. He embraced him with tenderness, +encouraging and exhorting him to keep up his spirits; and the more to +dissipate his fears he ordered, with an air of unconcern, the baths +to be got ready; when, after having bathed, he sat down to supper with +great cheerfulness, or at least (what is equally heroic) with all the +appearance of it. + +"In the meantime, the eruption from Mount Vesuvius flamed out in several +places with much violence, which the darkness of the night contributed +to render still more visible and dreadful. But my uncle, in order to +soothe the apprehensions of his friend, assured him it was only the +burning of the villages, which the country people had abandoned to the +flames; after this he retired to rest, and it was most certain he was so +little discomposed as to fall into a deep sleep; for, being pretty fat, +and breathing hard, those who attended without actually heard him snore. +The court which led to his apartment being now almost filled with stones +and ashes, if he had continued there any longer it would have been +impossible for him to have made his way out; it was thought proper, +therefore, to awaken him. He got up and went to Pomponianus and the rest +of his company, who were not unconcerned enough to think of going to +bed. They consulted together whether it would be most prudent to trust +to the houses, which now shook from side to side with frequent and +violent concussions; or to fly to the open fields, where the calcined +stone and cinders, though light indeed, yet fell in large showers and +threatened destruction. In this distress they resolved for the fields as +the less dangerous situation of the two--a resolution which, while +the rest of the company were hurried into it by their fears, my uncle +embraced upon cool and deliberate consideration. + + +DEATH OF PLINY THE ELDER + + +"They went out, then, having pillows tied upon their heads with napkins; +and this was their whole defence against the storm of stones that fell +around them. It was now day everywhere else, but there a deeper darkness +prevailed than in the most obscure night; which, however, was in some +degree dissipated by torches and other lights of various kinds. They +thought proper to go down further upon the shore, to observe if they +might safely put out to sea; but they found that the waves still ran +extremely high and boisterous. There my uncle, having drunk a draught or +two of cold water, threw himself down upon a cloth which was spread for +him, when immediately the flames, and a strong smell of sulphur which +was the forerunner of them, dispersed the rest of the company, and +obliged him to rise. He raised himself up with the assistance of two of +his servants, and instantly fell down dead, suffocated, as I conjecture, +by some gross and noxious vapor, having always had weak lungs, and being +frequently subject to a difficulty of breathing. + +"As soon as it was light again, which was not till the third day after +this melancholy accident, his body was found entire, and without any +marks of violence upon it, exactly in the same posture as that in which +he fell, and looking more like a man asleep than dead. During all this +time my mother and I were at Misenum. But this has no connection with +your history, as your inquiry went no farther than concerning my uncle's +death; with that, therefore, I will put an end to my letter. Suffer me +only to add, that I have faithfully related to you what I was either +an eye-witness of myself, or received immediately after the accident +happened, and before there was any time to vary the truth. You will +choose out of this narrative such circumstances as shall be most +suitable to your purpose; for there is a great difference between what +is proper for a letter and a history: between writing to a friend and +writing to the public. Farewell." + +In this account, which was drawn up some years after the event, from +the recollections of a student eighteen years old, we recognize the +continual earthquakes; the agitated sea with its uplifted bed; the +flames and vapors of an ordinary eruption, probably attended by lava as +well as ashes. But it seems likely that the author's memory, or rather +the information communicated to him regarding the closing scene of +Pliny's life, was defective. Flames and sulphurous vapors could hardly +be actually present at Stabiae, ten miles from the centre of the +eruption. + +That lava flowed at all from Vesuvius on this occasion has been usually +denied; chiefly because at Pompeii and Herculaneum the causes of +destruction were different--ashes overwhelmed the former, mud concreted +over the latter. We observe, indeed, phenomena on the shore near Torre +del Greco which seem to require the belief that currents of lava had +been solidified there at some period before the construction of certain +walls and floors, and other works of Roman date. In the Oxford Museum, +among the specimens of lava to which the dates are assigned, is one +referred to A. D. 79, but there is no mode of proving it to have +belonged to the eruption of that date. + + +PLINY'S SECOND LETTER + + +A second letter from Pliny to Tacitus (Epist. 20) was required to +satisfy the curiosity of that historian; especially as regards the +events which happened under the eyes of his friend. Here it is according +to Melmoth: + +"The letter which, in compliance with your request, I wrote to you +concerning the death of my uncle, has raised, it seems, your curiosity +to know what terrors and danger attended me while I continued at +Misenum: for there, I think, the account in my former letter broke off. + +'Though my shocked soul recoils, my tongue shall tell.' + +"My uncle having left us, I pursued the studies which prevented my going +with him till it was time to bathe. After which I went to supper, and +from thence to bed, where my sleep was greatly broken and disturbed. +There had been, for many days before, some shocks of an earthquake, +which the less surprised us as they are extremely frequent in Campania; +but they were so particularly violent that night, that they not only +shook everything about us, but seemed, indeed, to threaten total +destruction. My mother flew to my chamber, where she found me rising +in order to awaken her. We went out into a small court belonging to the +house, which separated the sea from the buildings. As I was at that time +but eighteen years of age, I know not whether I should call my behavior, +in this dangerous juncture, courage or rashness; but I took up Livy, and +amused myself with turning over that author, and even making extracts +from him, as if all about me had been in full security. While we were +in this posture, a friend of my uncle's, who was just come from Spain to +pay him a visit, joined us; and observing me sitting with my mother with +a book in my hand, greatly condemned her calmness at the same time that +he reproved me for my careless security. Nevertheless, I still went on +with my author. + +"Though it was now morning, the light was exceedingly faint and languid; +the buildings all around us tottered; and, though we stood upon open +ground, yet as the place was narrow and confined, there was no remaining +there without certain and great danger: we therefore resolved to quit +the town. The people followed us in the utmost consternation, and, as to +a mind distracted with terror every suggestion seems more prudent than +its own, pressed in great crowds about us in our way out. + +"Being got to a convenient distance from the houses, we stood still, in +the midst of a most dangerous and dreadful scene. The chariots which +we had ordered to be drawn out were so agitated backwards and forwards, +though upon the most level ground, that we could not keep them steady, +even by supporting them with large stones. The sea seemed to roll back +upon itself, and to be driven from its banks by the convulsive motion +of the earth; it is certain at least that the shore was considerably +enlarged, and many sea animals were left upon it. On the other side a +black and dreadful cloud, bursting with an igneous serpentine vapor, +darted out a long train of fire, resembling flashes of lightning, but +much larger. + + +FEAR VERSUS COMPOSURE + + +"Upon this the Spanish friend whom I have mentioned, addressed himself +to my mother and me with great warmth and earnestness; 'If your brother +and your uncle,' said he, 'is safe, he certainly wishes you to be so +too; but if he has perished, it was his desire, no doubt, that you might +both survive him: why therefore do you delay your escape a moment?' We +could never think of our own safety, we said, while we were uncertain +of his. Hereupon our friend left us, and withdrew with the utmost +precipitation. Soon afterward, the cloud seemed to descend, and cover +the whole ocean; as it certainly did the island of Capreae, and the +promontory of Misenum. My mother strongly conjured me to make my escape +at any rate, which, as I was young, I might easily do; as for herself, +she said, her age and corpulency rendered all attempts of that sort +impossible. However, she would willingly meet death, if she could have +the satisfaction of seeing that she was not the occasion of mine. But I +absolutely refused to leave her, and taking her by the hand, I led her +on; she complied with great reluctance, and not without many reproaches +to herself for retarding my flight. + +"The ashes now began to fall upon us, though in no great quantity. I +turned my head and observed behind us a thick smoke, which came rolling +after us like a torrent. I proposed, while we yet had any light, to turn +out of the high road lest she should be pressed to death in the dark by +the crowd that followed us. We had scarce stepped out of the path when +darkness overspread us, not like that of a cloudy night, or when there +is no moon, but of a room when it is all shut up and all the lights +are extinct. Nothing then was to be heard but the shrieks of women, +the screams of children and the cries of men; some calling for their +children, others for their parents, others for their husbands, and only +distinguishing each other by their voices; one lamenting his own fate, +another that of his family; some wishing to die from the very fear +of dying; some lifting their hands to the gods; but the greater part +imagining that the last and eternal night was come, which was to destroy +the gods and the world together. Among them were some who augmented the +real terrors by imaginary ones, and made the frighted multitude believe +that Misenum was actually in flames. + +"At length a glimmering light appeared, which we imagined to be rather +the forerunner of an approaching burst of flames, as in truth it was, +than the return of day. However, the fire fell at distance from us; then +again we were immersed in thick darkness, and a heavy shower of ashes +rained upon us, which we were obliged every now and then to shake off, +otherwise we should have been crushed and buried in the heap. + +"I might boast that, during all this scene of horror, not a sigh or +expression of fear escaped me, had not my support been founded in that +miserable, though strong, consolation that all mankind were involved in +the same calamity, and that I imagined I was perishing with the world +itself! At last this dreadful darkness was dissipated by degrees, like a +cloud of smoke; the real day returned, and soon the sun appeared, though +very faintly, and as when an eclipse is coming on. Every object that +presented itself to our eyes (which were extremely weakened) seemed +changed, being covered over with white ashes, as with a deep snow. We +returned to Misenum, where we refreshed ourselves as well as we could, +and passed an anxious night between hope and fear, for the earthquake +still continued, while several greatly excited people ran up and +down, heightening their own and their friends' calamities by terrible +predictions. However, my mother and I, notwithstanding the danger we had +passed and that which still threatened us, had no thoughts of leaving +the place till we should receive some account from my uncle. + +"And now you will read this narrative without any view of inserting it +in your history, of which it is by no means worthy; and, indeed, you +must impute it to your own request if it shall not even deserve the +trouble of a letter. Farewell!" + + +DION CASSIUS ON THE ERUPTION + + +The story told by Pliny is the only one upon which we can rely. Dion +Cassius, the historian, who wrote more than a century later, does not +hesitate to use his imagination, telling us that Pompeii was buried +under showers of ashes "while all the people were sitting in the +theatre." This statement has been effectively made use of by Bulwer, in +his "Last Days of Pompeii." In this he pictures for us a gladiatorial +combat in the arena, with thousands of deeply interested spectators +occupying the surrounding seats. The novelist works his story up to a +thrilling climax in which the volcano plays a leading part. + +This is all very well as a vivid piece of fiction, but it does not +accord with fact, since Dion Cassius was undoubtedly incorrect in his +statement. We now know from the evidence furnished by the excavations +that none of the people were destroyed in the theatres, and, indeed, +that there were very few who did not escape from both cities. It is +very likely that many of them returned and dug down for the most valued +treasures in their buried habitations. Dion Cassius may have obtained +the material for his accounts from the traditions of the descendants of +survivors, and if so he shows how terrible must have been the impression +made upon their minds. He assures us that during the eruption a +multitude of men of superhuman nature appeared, sometimes on the +mountain and sometimes in the environs, that stones and smoke were +thrown out, the sun was hidden, and then the giants seemed to rise +again, while the sounds of trumpets were heard. + + +LAKE AVERNUS + + +Not far from Vesuvius lay the famous Lake Avernus, whose name was long +a popular synonym for the infernal regions. The lake is harmless to-day, +but its reputation indicates that it was not always so. There is every +reason to believe that it hides the outlet of an extinct volcano, and +that long after the volcano ceased to be active it emitted gases as +fatal to animal life as those suffocating vapors which annihilated all +the cattle on the Island of Lancerote, in the Canaries, in the year +1730. Its name signifies "birdless," indicating that its ascending +vapors were fatal to all birds that attempted to fly above its surface. + +In the superstition of the Middle Ages Vesuvius assumed the character +which had before been given to Avernus, and was regarded as the mouth of +hell. Cardinal Damiano, in a letter to Pope Nicholas II., written about +the year 1060 tells the story of how a priest, who had left his mother +ill at Beneventum, went on his homeward way to Naples past the crater of +Vesuvius, and heard issuing therefrom the voice of his mother in great +agony. He afterward found that her death coincided exactly with the time +at which he had heard her voice. + +A trip to the summit of Vesuvius is one of the principal attractions +for strangers who are visiting Naples. There is a fascination about that +awful slayer of cities which few can resist, and no less attractive +is the city of Pompeii, now largely laid bare after being buried for +eighteen centuries. We are indebted to Henry Haynie for the following +interesting description: "Once seen, it will never be forgotten. It is +full of suggestions. It kindles emotions that are worth the kindling, +and brings on dreams that are worth the dreaming. Of the three places +overwhelmed, Herculaneum, Pompeii and Stabiae, the last scarcely repays +excavation in one sense, and the first in another; but to watch the +diggers at Pompeii is fascinating, even when there is no reasonable +expectation of a find. Herculaneum was buried with lava, or rather with +tufa, and it is so very hard that the expense of uncovering of only a +small part of that city has been very great. + + +HOW POMPEII IMPRESSES ITS VISITORS + + +"Pompeii was smothered in ashes, however, and most of it is uncovered +now. But while there is much that is fascinating, and all of it is +instructive, there is nothing grand or awe-inspiring in the ruins of +Pompeii. No visitor stands breathless as in the great hall of Karnak or +in the once dreadful Coliseum at Rome, or dreams with sensuous delight +as before the Jasmine Court at Agra. + +"The weirdness of the scene possesses us as a haunted chamber might. We +have before us the narrow lanes, paved with tufa, in which Roman wagon +wheels have worn deep ruts. We cross streets on stepping-stones which +sandaled feet ages ago polished. We see the wine shops with empty jars, +counters stained with liquor, stone mills where the wheat was ground, +and the very ovens in which bread was baked more than eighteen centuries +ago. 'Welcome' is offered us at one silent, broken doorway; at another +we are warned to 'Beware of the dog!' The painted figures,--some of +them so artistic and rich in colors that pictures of them are +disbelieved,--the mosaic pavements, the empty fountains, the altars and +household gods, the marble pillars and the small gardens are there just +as the owners left them. Some of the walls are scribbled over by the +small boys of Pompeii in strange characters which mock modern erudition. +In places we read the advertisements of gladiatorial shows, never to +come off, the names of candidates for legislative office who were never +to sit. There is nothing like this elsewhere. + +"The value of Pompeii to those classic students who would understand, +not the speech only, but the life and the every-day habits, of the +ancient world, is too high for reckoning. Its inestimable evidence may +be seen in the fact that any high-school boy can draw the plan of a +Roman house, while ripest scholars hesitate on the very threshold of +a Greek dwelling. This is because no Hellenic Pompeii has yet been +discovered, but thanks to the silent city close to the beautiful Bay of +Naples, the Latin house is known from ostium to porticus, from the front +door to the back garden wall. + + +STREETS AND HOUSES OF POMPEII + + +"The streets of Pompeii must have had a charm unapproached by those +of any city now in existence. The stores, indeed, were wretched little +dens. Two or three of them commonly occupied the front of a house on +either side of the entrance, the ostium; but when the door lay open, as +was usually the case, a passerby could look into the atrium, prettily +decorated and hung with rich stuffs. The sunshine entered through an +aperture in the roof, and shone on the waters of the impluvium, the +mosaic floor, the altar of the household gods and the flowers around the +fountain. + +"As the life of the Pompeiians was all outdoors, their pretty homes +stood open always. There was indeed a curtain betwixt the atrium and the +peristyle, but it was drawn only when the master gave a banquet. Thus a +wayfarer in the street could see, beyond the hall described and its +busy servants, the white columns of the peristyle, with creepers trained +about them, flowers all around, and jets of water playing through pipes +which are still in place. In many cases the garden itself could be +observed between the pillars of the further gallery, and rich paintings +on the wall beyond that. + +"But how far removed those little palaces of Pompeii were from our +notion of well-being is scarcely to be understood by one who has not +seen them. It is a question strange in all points of view where the +family slept in the houses, nearly all of which had no second story. In +the most graceful villas the three to five sleeping chambers round the +atrium and four round the peristyle were rather ornamental cupboards +than aught else. One did not differ from another, and if these were +devoted to the household the slaves, male and female, must have slept +on the floor outside. The master, his family and his guest used these +small, dark rooms, which were apparently without such common luxuries +as we expect in the humblest home. All their furniture could hardly have +been more than a bed and a footstool; but it should be remembered +that the public bath was a daily amusement. The kitchen of each villa +certainly was not furnished with such ingenuity, expense or thought as +the stories of Roman gormandising would have led us to expect. In the +house of the Aedile--so called from the fact that 'Pansam Aed.' is +inscribed in red characters by the doorway--the cook seems to have been +employed in frying eggs at the moment when increasing danger put him to +flight. His range, four partitions of brick, was very small; a knife, +a strainer, a pan lay by the fire just as they fell from the slave's +hand." + + +VALUE OF THE DISCOVERY OF POMPEII + + +This description strongly presents to us the principal value of the +discovery of Pompeii. Interesting as are the numerous works of art found +in its habitations, and important as is their bearing upon some branches +of the art of the ancient world, this cannot compare in interest with +the flood of light which is here thrown on ancient life in all its +details, enabling us to picture to ourselves the manners and habits of +life of a cultivated and flourishing population at the beginning of the +Christian era, to an extent which no amount of study of ancient history +could yield. + +Looking upon the work of the volcano as essentially destructive, as +we naturally do, we have here a valuable example of its power as a +preservative agent; and it is certainly singular that it is to a +volcano we owe much of what we know concerning the cities, dwellings and +domestic life of the people of the Roman Empire. + +It would be very fortunate for students of antiquity if similar +disasters had happened to cities in other ancient civilized lands, +however unfortunate it might have been to their inhabitants. But +doubtless we are better off without knowledge gained from ruins thus +produced. + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Eruptions of Vesuvius, Etna and Stromboli. + + +Mount Vesuvius is of especial interest as being the only active volcano +on the continent of Europe--all others of that region being on the +islands of the Mediterranean--and for the famous ancient eruption +described in the last chapter. Before this it had borne the reputation +of being extinct, but since then it has frequently shown that its fires +have not burned out, and has on several occasions given a vigorous +display of its powers. + +During the fifteen hundred years succeeding the destructive event +described eruptions were of occasional occurrence, though of no great +magnitude. But throughout the long intervals when Vesuvius was at rest +it was noted that Etna and Ischia were more or less disturbed. + + +THE BIRTH OF MONTE NUOVO + + +In 1538 a startling evidence was given that there was no decline of +energy in the volcanic system of Southern Italy. This was the sudden +birth of the mountain still known as Monte Nuovo, or New Mountain, +which was thrown up in the Campania near Avernus, on the spot formerly +occupied by the Lucrine Lake. + +For about two years prior to this event the district had been disturbed +by earthquakes, which on September 27 and 28, 1538, became almost +continuous. The low shore was slightly elevated, so that the sea +retreated, leaving bare a strip about two hundred feet in width. The +surface cracked, steam escaped, and at last, early on the morning of the +29th, a greater rent was made, from which were vomited furiously "smoke, +fire, stones and mud composed of ashes, making at the time of its +opening a noise like the loudest thunder." + +The ejected material in less than twelve hours built the hill which has +lasted substantially in the same form to our day. It is a noteworthy +fact that since the formation of Monte Nuovo there has been no volcanic +disturbance in any part of the Neapolitan district except in Vesuvius, +which for five centuries previous had remained largely at rest. + + +LAVA FROM VESUVIUS + + +The first recognised appearance of lava in the eruptions of Vesuvius was +in the violent eruption of 1036. This was succeeded at intervals by five +other outbreaks, none of them of great energy. After 1500 the crater +became completely quiet, the whole mountain in time being grown over +with luxuriant vegetation, while by the next century the interior of the +crater became green with shrubbery, indicating that no injurious gases +were escaping. + +This was sleep, not death. In 1631 the awakening came in an eruption of +terrible violence. Almost in a moment the green mantle of woodland and +shrubbery was torn away and death and destruction left where peace and +safety had seemed assured. + +Seven streams of lava poured from the crater and swept rapidly down the +mountain side, leaving ruin along their paths. Resina, Granasello and +Torre del Greco, three villages that had grown up during the period +of quiescence, were more or less overwhelmed by the molten lava. Great +torrents of hot water also poured out, adding to the work of desolation. +It was estimated that eighteen thousand of the inhabitants were killed. + +What made the horror all the greater was a frightful error of judgment, +similar to that of the Governor of Martinique at St. Pierre. The +Governor of Torre del Greco had refused to be warned in time, and +prevented the people from making their escape until it was too late. +Not until the lava had actually reached the walls was the order for +departure given. Before the order could be acted upon the molten streams +burst through the walls into the crowded streets, and overwhelmed the +vast majority of the inhabitants. + +In this violent paroxysm the whole top of the mountain is said to have +been swept away, the new crater which took the place of the old one +being greatly lowered. From that date Vesuvius has never been at rest +for any long interval, and eruptions of some degree of violence +have been rarely more than a few years apart. Of its various later +manifestations of energy we select for description that of 1767, of +which an interesting account by a careful observer is extant. + + +GREAT ERUPTION OF 1767 + + +From the 10th of December, 1766, to March, 1767, Vesuvius was quiet; +then it began to throw up stones from time to time. In April the throws +were more frequent, and at night the red glare grew stronger on the +cloudy columns which hung over the crater. These repeated throws of +cinders, ashes and pumice-stones so much increased the small cone of +eruption which had been left in the centre of the flat crateral space +that its top became visible at a distance. + +On the 7th of August there issued a small stream of lava from a breach +in the side of a small cone; the lava gradually filled the space between +the cone and the crateral edge; on the 12th of September it overflowed +the crater, and ran down the mountain. Stones were ejected which took +ten seconds in their fall, from which it may be computed that the height +which the stones reached was 1,600 feet. Padre Torre, a great observer +of Vesuvius, says they went up above a thousand feet. The lava ceased +on the 18th of October, but at 8 A. M. on the 19th it rushed out at a +different place, after volleys of stones had been thrown to an immense +height, and the huge traditional pine-tree of smoke reappeared. On this +occasion that vast phantom extended its menacing shadow over Capri, at a +distance of twenty-eight miles from Vesuvius. + +The lava at first came out of a mouth about one hundred yards below the +crater, on the side toward Monte Somma. While occupied in viewing this +current, the observer heard a violent noise within the mountain; saw it +split open at the distance of a quarter of a mile, and saw from the new +mouth a mountain of liquid fire shoot up many feet, and then, like a +torrent, roll on toward him. The earth shook; stones fell thick around +him; dense clouds of ashes darkened the air; loud thunders came from the +mountain top, and he took to precipitate flight. The Padre's account is +too lively and instructive for his own words to be omitted. + + +PADRE TORRE'S NARRATIVE + + +"I was making my observations upon the lava, which had already, from the +spot where it first broke out, reached the valley, when, on a sudden, +about noon, I heard a violent noise within the mountain, and at a spot +about a quarter of a mile off the place where I stood the mountain +split; and with much noise, from this new mouth, a fountain of liquid +fire shot up many feet high, and then like a torrent rolled on directly +towards us. The earth shook at the same time that a volley of stones +fell thick upon us; in an instant clouds of black smoke and ashes caused +almost a total darkness; the explosions from the top of the mountain +were much louder than any thunder I ever heard, and the smell of the +sulphur was very offensive. My guide, alarmed, took to his heels; and +I must confess that I was not at my ease. I followed close, and we ran +near three miles without stopping; as the earth continued to shake under +our feet, I was apprehensive of the opening of a fresh mouth which might +have cut off our retreat. + +"I also feared that the violent explosions would detach some of the +rocks off the mountain of Somma, under which we were obliged to pass; +besides, the pumice-stones, falling upon us like hail, were of such a +size as to cause a disagreeable sensation in the part upon which they +fell. After having taken breath, as the earth trembled greatly I thought +it most prudent to leave the mountain and return to my villa, where I +found my family in great alarm at the continual and violent explosions +of the volcano, which shook our house to its very foundation, the doors +and windows swinging upon their hinges. + +"About two of the clock in the afternoon (19th) another lava stream +forced its way out of the same place from whence came the lava of last +year, so that the conflagration was soon as great on this side of the +mountain as on the other which I had just left. I observed on my way to +Naples, which was in less than two hours after I had left the mountain, +that the lava had actually covered three miles of the very road through +which we had retreated. This river of lava in the Atrio del Cavallo was +sixty or seventy feet deep, and in some places nearly two miles broad. +Besides the explosions, which were frequent, there was a continued +subterranean and violent rumbling noise, which lasted five hours in +the night,--supposed to arise from contact of the lava with rain-water +lodged in cavities within. The whole neighborhood was shaken violently; +Portici and Naples were in the extremity of alarm; the churches were +filled; the streets were thronged with processions of saints, and +various ceremonies were performed to quell the fury of the mountain. + +"In the night of the 20th, the occasion being critical, the prisoners in +the public jail attempted to escape, and the mob set fire to the gates +of the residence of the Cardinal Archbishop because he refused to bring +out the relics of St. Januarius. The 21st was a quieter day, but the +whole violence of the eruption returned on the 22d, at 10 A. M., with +the same thundering noise, but more violent and alarming. Ashes fell in +abundance in the streets of Naples, covering the housetops and balconies +an inch deep. Ships at sea, twenty leagues from Naples, were covered +with them. + +"In the midst of these horrors, the mob, growing tumultuous and +impatient, obliged the Cardinal to bring out the head of St. Januarius, +at the extremity of Naples, toward Vesuvius; and it is well attested +here that the eruption ceased the moment the saint came in sight of +the mountain. It is true the noise ceased about that time after having +lasted five hours, as it had done the preceding days. + +"On the 23d the lava still ran, but on the 24th it ceased; but smoke +continued. On the 25th there rose a vast column of black smoke, giving +out much forked lightning with thunder, in a sky quite clear except for +the smoke of the volcano. On the 26th smoke continued, but on the 27th +the eruption came to an end." + +This eruption was also described by Sir William Hamilton, who continued +to keep a close watch on the movements of the volcano for many years. +The next outbreak of especial violence took place in 1779, when what +seemed to the eye a column of fire ascended two miles high, while cinder +fragments fell far and wide, destroying the hopes of harvest throughout +a wide district. They fell in abundance thirty miles distant, and the +dust of the explosion was carried a hundred miles away. + +In 1793 the crater became active again, and in 1794 after a period of +short tranquillity or comparative inaction, the mountain again became +agitated, and one of the most formidable eruptions known in the history +of Vesuvius began. It was in some respects unlike many others, being +somewhat peculiar as to the place of its outburst, the temperature of +the lava, and the course of the current. Breislak, an Italian geologist, +observed the characteristic phenomena with the eye of science, and his +account supplies many interesting facts. + + +BREISLAK ON THE ERUPTION OF 1794 + + +Breislak remarked certain changes in the character of the earth's +motions during this six hours' eruption, which led him to some +particular conjecture of the cause. At the beginning the trembling was +continual, and accompanied by a hollow noise, similar to that occasioned +by a river falling into a subterranean cavern. The lava, at the time +of its being disgorged, from the impetuous and uninterrupted manner in +which it was ejected, causing it to strike violently against the walls +of the vent, occasioned a continual oscillation of the mountain. Toward +the middle of the night this vibratory motion ceased, and was succeeded +by distant shocks. The fluid mass, diminished in quantity, now pressed +less violently against the walls of the aperture, and no longer issued +in a continual and gushing stream, but only at intervals, when the +interior fermentation elevated the boiling matter above the mouth. About +4 A. M. the shocks began to be less numerous, and the intervals between +them rendered their force and duration more perceptible. + +During this tremendous eruption at the base of the Vesuvian cone, and +the fearful earthquakes which accompanied it, the summit was tranquil. +The sky was serene, the stars were brilliant, and only over Vesuvius +hung a thick, dark smoke-cloud, lighted up into an auroral arch by the +glare of a stream of fire more than two miles long, and more than a +quarter of a mile broad. The sea was calm, and reflected the red glare; +while from the source of the lava came continual jets of uprushing +incandescent stones. Nearer to view, Torre del Greco in flames, and +clouds of black smoke, with falling houses, presented a dark and +tragical foreground, heightened by the subterranean thunder of the +mountain, and the groans and lamentations of fifteen thousand ruined +men, women and children. + +The heavy clouds of ashes which were thrown out on this occasion +gathered in the early morning into a mighty shadow over Naples and the +neighborhood; the sun rose pale and obscure, and a long, dim twilight +reigned afterward. + +Such were the phenomena on the western side of Vesuvius. They were +matched by others on the eastern aspect, not visible at Naples, except +by reflection of their light in the atmosphere. The lava on this side +flowed eastward, along a route often traversed by lava, by the broken +crest of the Cognolo and the valley of Sorienta. The extreme length to +which this current reached was not less than an Italian mile. The cubic +content was estimated to be half that already assigned to the western +currents. Taken together they amounted to 20,744,445 cubic metres, or +2,804,440 cubic fathoms; the constitution of the lava being the same in +each, both springing from one deep-seated reservoir of fluid rock. + +The eruption of lava ceased on the 16th, and then followed heavy +discharges of ashes, violent shocks of earthquakes, thunder and +lightning in the columns of vapors and ashes, and finally heavy rains, +lasting till the 3d of July. The barometer during all the eruption was +steady. + +Breislak made an approximate calculation of the quantity of ashes which +fell on Vesuvius during this great eruption, and states the result as +equal to what would cover a circular area 6 kilometres (about 3 1/2 +English miles) in radius, and 39 centimetres (about 15 inches) in depth. + + +STRANGE EFFECTS + + +Among the notable things which attended this eruption, it is recorded +that in Torre del Greco metallic and other substances exposed to +the current were variously affected. Silver was melted, glass became +porcelain, iron swelled to four times its volume and lost its texture. +Brass was decomposed, and its constituent copper crystallized in +cubic and octahedral forms aggregated in beautiful branches. Zinc was +sometimes turned to blende. During the eruption, the lip of the crater +toward Bosco Tre Case on the south east, fell in, or was thrown off, and +the height of that part was reduced 426 feet. + +On the 17th, the sea was found in a boiling state 100 yards off the new +promontory made by the lava of Torre del Greco, and no boat could remain +near it on account of the melting of the pitch in her bottom. For nearly +a month after the eruption vast quantities of fine white ashes, mixed +with volumes of steam, were thrown out from the crater; the clouds +thus generated were condensed into heavy rain, and large tracts of the +Vesuvian slopes were deluged with volcanic mud. It filled ravines, such +as Fosso Grande, and concreted and hardened there into pumiceous tufa--a +very instructive phenomenon. + +Immense injury was done to the rich territory of Somma, Ottajano and +Bosco by heavy rains, which swept along cinders, broke up the road and +bridges, and overturned trees and houses for the space of fifteen days. + +There were few years during the nineteenth century in which Vesuvius did +not show symptoms of its internal fires, and at intervals it manifested +much activity, though not equaling the terrible eruptions of its past +history. The severest eruptions in that century were those of 1871 and +1876. In the first a sudden emission of lava killed twenty spectators at +the mouth of the crater, and only spent its fury after San Sebastian and +Massa had been well nigh annihilated. Fragments of rock were thrown up +to the height of 4,000 feet, and the explosions were so violent that +the whole countryside fled panic stricken to Naples. The activity of +the volcano, accompanied by distinct shocks of earthquake, lasted for a +week. + +In 1876, for three weeks together, lava streamed down the side of +Vesuvius, sweeping away the village of Cercolo and running nearly to the +sea at Ponte Maddaloni. There were then formed ten small craters within +the greater one. But these were united by a later eruption in 1888, and +pressure from beneath formed a vast cone where they had been. + + +HARDIHOOD OF THE PEOPLE + + +It may seem strange that so dangerous a neighborhood should be +inhabited. But so it is. Though Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae lie +buried beneath the mud and ashes belched out of the mouth of Vesuvius, +the villages of Portici and Revina, Torre del Greco and Torre del +Annunziata have taken their place, and a large population, cheerful +and prosperous, flourishes around the disturbed mountain and over the +district of which it is the somewhat untrustworthy safety-valve. + +It is thus that man, in his eagerness to cultivate all available parts +of the earth, dares the most frightful perils and ventures into the most +threatening situations, seeking to snatch the means of life from +the very jaws of death. The danger is soon forgotten, the need of +cultivation of the ground is ever pressing, and no threats of peril seem +capable of restraining the activity of man for many years. Though the +proposition of abandoning the Island of Martinique has been seriously +considered, the chances are that, before many years have passed, a +cheerful and busy population will be at work again on the flanks of Mont +Pelee. + + +MOUNT ETNA + + +On the eastern coast of the Island of Sicily, and not far from the +sea, rises in solitary grandeur Mount Etna, the largest and highest of +European volcanoes. Its height above the level of the sea is a little +over 10,870 feet, considerably above the limit of perpetual snow. +It accordingly presents the striking phenomenon of volcanic vapors +ascending from a snow-clad summit. The base of the mountain is +eighty-seven miles in circumference, and nearly circular; but there is +a wide additional extent all around overspread by its lava. The lower +portions of the mountain are exceedingly fertile, and richly adorned +with corn-fields, vineyards, olive-groves and orchards. Above this +region are extensive forests, chiefly of oak, chestnut, and pine, with +here and there clumps of cork-trees and beech. In this forest region are +grassy glades, which afford rich pasture to numerous flocks. Above the +forest lies a volcanic desert, covered with black lava and slag. Out of +this region, which is comparatively flat rises the principal cone, about +1,100 feet in height, having on its summit the crater, whence sulphurous +vapors are continually evolved. + +The great height of Etna has exerted a remarkable influence on its +general conformation: for the volcanic forces have rarely been of +sufficient energy to throw the lava quite up to the crater at the +summit. The consequence has been, that numerous subsidiary craters and +cones have been formed all around the flanks of the mountain, so that it +has become rather a cluster of volcanoes than a single volcanic cone. + +The eruptions of this mountain have been numerous, records of them +extending back to several centuries before the Christian era, while +unrecorded ones doubtless took place much further back. After the +beginning of the Christian era, and more especially after the breaking +forth of Vesuvius in 79 A. D., Etna enjoyed longer intervals of repose. +Its eruptions since that time have nevertheless been numerous--more +especially during the intervals when Vesuvius was inactive--there being +a sort of alternation between the periods of great activity of the two +mountains; although there are not a few instances of their having been +both in action at the same time. + + +SIMILARITY IN ETNA'S ERUPTIONS + + +There is a great similarity in the character of the eruptions of Etna. +Earthquakes presage the outburst, loud explosions follow, rifts and +bocche del fuoco open in the sides of the mountain; smoke, sand, ashes +and scoriae are discharged, the action localizes itself in one or more +craters, cinders are thrown up and accumulate around the crater and +cone, ultimately lava rises and frequently breaks down one side of the +cone where the resistance is least; then the eruption is at an end. + +Smyth says: "The symptoms which precede an eruption are generally +irregular clouds of smoke, ferilli or volcanic lightnings, hollow +intonations and local earthquakes that often alarm the surrounding +country as far as Messina, and have given the whole province the name +of Val Demone, as being the abode of infernal spirits. These agitations +increase until the vast cauldron becomes surcharged with the fused +minerals, when, if the convulsion is not sufficiently powerful to force +them from the great crater (which, from its great altitude and the +weight of the candent matter, requires an uncommon effort), they explode +through that part of the side which offers the least resistance with a +grand and terrific effect, throwing red-hot stones and flakes of fire to +an incredible height, and spreading ignited cinders and ashes in every +direction." + +After the eruption of ashes, lava frequently follows, sometimes rising +to the top of the cone of cinders, at others disrupting it on the least +resisting side. When the lava has reached the base of the cone it begins +to flow down the mountain, and, being then in a very fluid state, it +moves with great velocity. As it cools, the sides and surface begin to +harden, its velocity decreases, and after several days it moves only +a few yards an hour. The internal portions, however, part slowly with +their heat, and months after the eruption clouds of steam arise from the +black and externally cold lava-beds after rain; which, having penetrated +through the cracks, has found its way to the heated mass within. + + +THE ERUPTION OF 1669 + + +The most memorable of the eruptions of Etna was that which elevated the +double cone of Monte Rossi and destroyed a large part of the city +of Catania. It happened in the year 1669, and was preceded by an +earthquake, which overthrew the town of Nicolosi, situated ten miles +inland from Catania, and about twenty miles from the top of Etna. The +eruption began with the sudden opening of an enormous fissure, extending +from a little way above Nicolosi to within about a mile of the top of +the principal cone, its length being twelve miles, its average breadth +six feet, its depth unknown. + +We have a more detailed account of this eruption than of any preceding +one, as it was observed by men of science from various countries. The +account from which we select is that of Alfonso Borelli, Professor of +Mathematics in Catania. + +From the fissure above mentioned, he says, there came a bright light. +Six mouths opened in a line with it and emitted vast columns of smoke, +accompanied by loud bellowings which could be heard forty miles off. +Towards the close of the day a crater opened about a mile below the +others, which ejected red-hot stones to a considerable distance, and +afterward sand and ashes which covered the country for a distance of +sixty miles. The new crater soon vomited forth a torrent of lava which +presented a front of two miles; it encircled Monpilieri, and afterward +flowed towards Belpasso, a town of 8,000 inhabitants, which was speedily +destroyed. Seven mouths of fire opened around the new crater, and +in three days united with it, forming one large crater 800 feet in +diameter. All this time the torrent of lava continued to descend, it +destroying the town of Mascalucia on the 23d of March. On the same day +the crater cast up great quantities of sand, ashes and scoriae, and +formed above itself the great double-coned hill now called Monte Rossi, +from the red color of the ashes of which it is mainly composed. + + +VILLAGES AND CITIES BURIED + + +On the 25th very violent earthquakes occurred, and the cone above the +great central crater was shaken down into the crater for the fifth time +since the first century A. D. The original current of lava divided +into three streams, one of which destroyed San Pietro, the second +Camporotondo, and the third the lands about Mascalucia and afterward the +village of Misterbianco. Fourteen villages were altogether destroyed, +and the lava flowed toward Catania. At Albanelli, two miles from the +city, it undermined a hill covered with cornfields and carried it +forward a considerable distance. A vineyard was also seen to be floating +on its fiery surface. When the lava reached the walls of Catania, it +accumulated without progression until it rose to the top of the wall, 60 +feet in height, and it then fell over in a fiery cascade and overwhelmed +a part of the city. Another portion of the same stream threw down 120 +feet of the wall and flowed into the city. + +On the 23d of April the lava reached the sea, which it entered as a +stream 600 yards broad and 40 feet deep. The stream had moved at the +rate of thirteen miles in twenty days, but as it cooled it moved +less quickly, and during the last twenty-three days of its course, it +advanced only two miles. On reaching the sea the water, of course, +began to boil violently, and clouds of steam arose, carrying with them +particles of scoriae. Towards the end of April the stream on the west +side of Catania, which had appeared to be consolidated, again burst +forth, and flowed into the garden of the Benedictine Monastery of San +Niccola, and then branched off into the city. Attempts were made to +build walls to arrest its progress. + +An attempt of another kind was made by a gentleman of Catania, named +Pappalardo, who took fifty men with him, having previously provided them +with skins for protection from the intense heat and with crowbars to +effect an opening in the lava. They pierced the solid outer crust of +solidified lava, and a rivulet of the molten interior immediately gushed +out and flowed in the direction of Paterno, whereupon 500 men of that +town, alarmed for its safety, took up arms and caused Pappalardo and his +men to desist. The lava did not altogether stop for four months, and two +years after it had ceased to flow it was found to be red hot beneath the +surface. Even eight years after the eruption quantities of steam escaped +from the lava after a shower of rain. + + +THE STONES EJECTED + + +The stones which were ejected from the crater during this eruption +were often of considerable magnitude, and Borelli calculated that the +diameter of one which he saw was 50 feet; it was thrown to a distance +of a mile, and as it fell it penetrated the earth to a depth of 23 feet. +The volume of lava emitted during the eruption amounted to many millions +of cubic feet. Ferara considers that the length of the stream was at +least fifteen miles, while its average width was between two and three +miles, so that it covered at least forty square miles of surface. + +Among the towns overflowed by this great eruption was Mompilieri. +Thirty-five years afterward, in 1704, an excavation was made on the site +of the principal church of this place, and at the depth of thirty-five +feet the workmen came upon the gate, which was adorned with three +statues. From under an arch which had been formed by the lava, one +of these statues, with a bell and some coins, were extracted in good +preservation. This fact is remarkable; for in a subsequent eruption, +which happened in 1766, a hill about fifty feet in height, being +surrounded on either side by two streams of lava, was in a quarter of +an hour swept along by the current. The latter event may be explained by +supposing that the hill in question was cavernous in its structure, +and that the lava, penetrating into the cavities, forced asunder their +walls, and so detached the superincumbent mass from its supports. + +It is not by its streams of fire alone that Etna ravages the valleys and +plains at its base. It sometimes also deluges them with great floods of +water. On the 2d of March, 1755, two streams of lava, issuing from the +highest crater, were at once precipitated on an enormous mass of very +deep snow, which then clothed the summit. These fiery currents ran +through the snow to a distance of three miles, melting it as they +flowed. The consequence was, that a tremendous torrent of water rushed +down the sides of the mountain, carrying with it vast quantities of +sand, volcanic cinders and blocks of lava, with which it overspread the +flanks of the mountain and the plains beneath, which it devastated in +its course. + +The volume of water was estimated at 16,000,000 cubic feet, it forming +a channel two miles broad and in some places thirty-four feet deep, +and flowing at the rate of two-thirds of a mile in a minute. All the +winter's snow on the mountain could not have yielded such a flood, +and Lyell considered that it melted older layers of ice which had been +preserved under a covering of volcanic dust. + + +ETNA IN 1819 + + +Another great eruption took place in 1819, which presented some +peculiarities. Near the point whence the highest stream of lava +issued in 1811, there were opened three large mouths, which, with loud +explosions, threw up hot cinders and sand, illuminated by a strong glare +from beneath. Shortly afterwards there was opened, a little lower down, +another mouth, from which a similar eruption took place; and still +farther down there soon appeared a fifth, whence there flowed a torrent +of lava which rapidly spread itself over the Val del Bove. During the +first forty-eight hours it flowed nearly four miles, when it received a +great accession. The three original mouths became united into one large +crater, from which, as well as from the other two mouths below, there +poured forth a vastly augmented torrent of lava, which rushed with great +impetuosity down the same valley. + +During its progress over this gentle slope, it acquired the usual crust +of hardened slag. It directed its course towards that point at which Val +del Bove opens into the narrow ravine beneath it--there being between +the two a deep and almost perpendicular precipice. Arrived at this +point, the lava-torrent leaped over the precipice in a vast cascade, and +with a thundering noise, arising chiefly from the crashing and breaking +up of the solid crust, which was in a great measure pounded to atoms by +the fall; it throwing up such vast clouds of dust as to awaken an alarm +that a fresh eruption had begun at this place, which is within the +wooded region. + +A very violent eruption, which lasted more than nine months, commenced +on the 21st of August, 1852. It was first witnessed by a party of +English tourists, who were ascending the mountain from Nicolosi in order +to see the sunrise from the summit. As they approached the Casa Inglesi +the crater commenced to give forth ashes and flames of fire. In a narrow +defile they were met by a violent hurricane, which overthrew both the +mules and their riders, and urged them toward the precipices of the Val +del Bove. They sheltered themselves beneath some masses of lava, when +suddenly an earthquake shook the mountain, and their mules in terror +fled away. As day approached they returned on foot to Nicolosi, +fortunately without having sustained injury. In the course of the night +many bocche del fuoco (small lava vents) opened in that part of the Val +del Bove called the Bazo di Trifoglietto, a great fissure opened at the +base of the Giannicola Grande, and a crater was thrown up from which for +seventeen days showers of sand and scoriae were ejected. + + +EFFECT OF THE ERUPTION + + +During the next day a quantity of lava flowed down the Val del +Bove, branching off so that one stream advanced to the foot of Monte +Finocchio, and the other to Monte Calanna. Afterwards it flowed towards +Zaffarana, and devastated a large tract of wooded region. Four days +later a second crater was formed near the first, from which lava was +emitted, together with sand and scoriae, which caused cones to arise +around the craters. The lava moved but slowly, and towards the end of +August it came to a stand, only a quarter of a mile from Zaffarana. + +On the second of September, Gemellaro ascended Monte Finocchio in the +Val del Bove in order to witness the outburst. He states that the hill +was violently agitated, like a ship at sea. The surface of the Val +del Bove appeared like a molten lake; scoriae were thrown up from the +craters to a great height, and loud explosions were heard at frequent +intervals. The eruption continued to increase in violence. On October +6 two new mouths opened in the Val del Bove, emitting lava which flowed +towards the valley of Calanna, and fell over the Salto della Giumenta, +a precipice nearly 200 feet deep. The noise which it produced was like +that of a clash of metallic masses. The eruption continued with abated +violence during the early months of 1853, and it did not finally cease +till May 27. The entire mass of lava ejected is estimated to have been +equal to an area six miles long by two miles broad, with an average +depth of about twelve feet. + +This eruption was one of the grandest of all the known eruptions of +Etna. During its outflow more than 2,000,000,000 cubic feet of molten +lava was spread out over a space of three square miles. There have been +several eruptions since its date, but none of marked prominence, though +the mountain is rarely quiescent for any lengthened period. + + +THE LIPARI VOLCANOES + + +South-eastward of Ischia, between Calabria and Sicily, the Lipari +Islands arrest attention for the volcanic phenomena they present. On +one of these is Mount Vulcano, or Volcano, from which all this class of +mountains is named. At present the best known of the Lipari volcanoes +is Stromboli, which consists of a single mountain, having a very obtuse +conical form. It has on one side of it several small craters, of which +only one is at present in a state of activity. + +The total height of the mountain is about 2000 feet, and the principal +crater is situated at about two-thirds of the height. Stromboli is one +of the most active volcanoes in the world. It is mentioned as being in +a state of activity by several writers before the Christian era, and the +commencement of its operations extends into the past beyond the limits +of tradition. Since history began its action has never wholly ceased, +although it may have varied in intensity from time to time. + +It has been observed that the violence of its eruptive force has a +certain dependence on the weather--being always most intense when the +barometer is lowest. From the position of the crater, it is possible to +ascend the mountain and look down upon it from above. Even when viewed +in this manner, it presents a very striking appearance. While there is +an uninterrupted continuance of small explosions, there is a frequent +succession of more violent eruptions, at intervals varying in length +from seven to fifteen minutes. + + +HOFFMAN AT STROMBOLI + + +Several eminent observers have approached quite close to the crater, +and examined it narrowly. One of these was M. Hoffman, who visited it in +1828. + +This eminent geologist, while having his legs held by his companions, +stretched his head over the precipice, and, looking right down into the +mouth of one of the vents of the crater immediately under him, watched +the play of liquid lava within it. Its surface resembled molten silver, +and was constantly rising and falling at regular intervals. A bubble of +white vapor rose and escaped, with a decrepitating noise, at each ascent +of the lava--tossing up red-hot fragments of scoria, which continued +dancing up and down with a sort of rhythmic play upon the surface. +At intervals of fifteen minutes or so, there was a pause in these +movements. Then followed a loud report, while the ground trembled, and +there rose to the surface of the lava an immense bubble of vapor. This, +bursting with a crackling noise, threw out to the height of about 1200 +feet large quantities of red-hot stones and scoriae, which, describing +parabolic curves, fell in a fiery, shower all around. After another +brief repose, the more moderate action was resumed as before. + +Lipari, a neighboring volcano, was formerly more active than Stromboli, +though for centuries past it has been in a state of complete quiescence. +The Island of Volcano lies south of Lipari. Its crater was active before +the Christian era, and still emits sulphurous and other vapors. At +present its main office is to serve as a sulphur mine. Thus the peak +which gives title to all fire-breathing mountains has become a servant +to man. So are the mighty fallen! + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +Skaptar Jokull and Hecla, the Great Icelandic Volcanoes. + + +The far-northern island of Iceland, on the verge of the frozen Arctic +realm, is one of the most volcanic countries in the world, whether we +regard the number of volcanoes concentrated in so small a space, or the +extraordinary violence of their eruptions. Of volcanic mountains there +are no less than twenty which have been active during historical times. +Skaptar in the north, and Hecla in the south, being much the best known. +In all, twenty-three eruptions are on record. + +Iceland's volcanoes rival Mount Aetna in height and magnitude, their +action has been more continuous and intense, and the range of volcanic +products is far greater than in Sicily. The latter island, indeed, is +not one-tenth of volcanic origin, while the whole of Iceland is due +to the work of subterranean forces. It is entirely made up of volcanic +rocks, and has seemingly been built up during the ages from the depths +of the seas. It is reported, indeed, that a new island, the work +of volcanic forces, appeared opposite Mount Hecla in 1563; but this +statement is open to doubt. + + +VOLCANOES IN ICELAND + + +The eruptions of the volcanoes in Iceland have been amongst the most +terrible of those carefully recorded. The cold climate of the island +and the height of the mountains produce vast quantities of snow and ice, +which cover the volcanoes and fill up the cracks and valleys in their +sides. When, therefore, an eruption commences, the intense heat of the +boiling lava, and of the steam which rushes forth from the crater, makes +the whole mountain hot, and vast masses of ice, great fields of snow, +and deluges of water roll down the hill-sides into the plains. The lava +pours from the top and from cracks in the side of the mountain, or is +ejected hundreds of feet, to fall amongst the ice and snow; and the +great masses of red-hot stone cast forth, accompanied by cinders and +fine ashes, splash into the roaring torrent, which tears up rocks in its +course and devastates the surrounding country for miles. + + +DREADFUL FLOODS + + +An eruption of Kotlugja, in 1860, was accompanied by dreadful floods. It +began with a number of earthquakes, which shook the surrounding country. +Then a dark columnar cloud of vapor was seen to rise by day from the +mountain, and by night balls of fire (volcanic bombs) and red-hot +cinders to the height of 24,000 feet (nearly five miles), which were +seen at a distance of 180 miles. Deluges of water rushed from the +heights, bearing along whole fields of ice and rocky fragments of every +size, some vomited from the volcano, but in great part torn from the +flanks of the mountain itself and carried to the sea, there to add +considerably to the coastline after devastating the intervening country. +The fountain of volcanic bombs consisted of masses of lava, containing +gases which exploded and produced a loud sound, which was said to have +been heard at a distance of 100 miles. The size of the bombs, and the +height to which they must have reached, were very great. But the most +remarkable of the historical eruptions in Iceland were those of Skaptar +Jokull in 1783, and of Hecla in 1845. Of these an extended description +is worthy of being given. + +Of these two memorable eruptions, that of Skaptar Jokull began on the +11th of June, 1783. It was preceded by a long series of earthquakes, +which had become exceedingly violent immediately before the eruption. On +the 8th, volcanic vapors were emitted from the summit of the mountain, +and on the 11th immense torrents of lava began to be poured forth from +numerous mouths. These torrents united to form a large stream, which, +flowing down into the river Skapta, not only dried it up, but completely +filled the vast gorge through which the river had held its course. This +gorge, 200 feet in breadth, and from 400 to 600 feet in depth, the lava +filled so entirely as to overflow to a considerable extent the fields +on either side. On issuing from this ravine, the lava flowed into a deep +lake which lay in the course of the river. Here it was arrested for a +while; but it ultimately filled the bed of the lake altogether--either +drying up its waters, or chasing them before it into the lower part of +the river's course. Still forced onward by the accumulation of molten +lava from behind, the stream resumed its advance, till it reached +some ancient volcanic rocks which were full of caverns. Into these it +entered, and where it could not eat its way by melting the old rock, +it forced a passage by shivering the solid mass and throwing its broken +fragments into the air to a height of 150 feet. + + +A TORRENT OF LAVA + + +On the 18th of June there opened above the first mouth a second of large +dimensions, whence poured another immense torrent of lava, which flowed +with great rapidity over the solidified surface of the first stream, and +ultimately combined with it to form a more formidable main current. When +this fresh stream reached the fiery lake, which had filled the lower +portion of the valley of the Skapta, a portion of it was forced up the +channel of that river towards the foot of the hill whence it takes its +rise. After pursuing its course for several days, the main body of this +stream reached the edge of a great waterfall called Stapafoss, which +plunged into a deep abyss. Displacing the water, the lava here leaped +over the precipice, and formed a great cataract of fire. After this, it +filled the channel of the river, though extending itself in breadth far +beyond it, and followed it until it reached the sea. + + +ENORMOUS QUANTITY OF LAVA + + +The 3rd of August brought fresh accessions to the flood of lava still +pouring from the mountain. There being no room in the channel, now +filled by the former lurid stream, which had pursued a northwesterly +course, the fresh lava was forced to take a new direction towards the +southeast, where it entered the bed of another river with a barbaric +name. Here it pursued a course similar to that which flowed through the +channel of the Skapta, filling up the deep gorges, and then spreading +itself out into great fiery lakes over the plains. + +The eruptions of lava from the mountain continued, with some short +intervals, for two years, and so enormous was the quantity poured forth +during this period that, according to a careful estimate which has been +made, the whole together would form a mass equal to that of Mont Blanc. +Of the two streams, the greater was fifty, the less forty, miles in +length. The Skapta branch attained on the plains a breadth varying from +twelve to fifteen miles--that of the other was only about half as much. +Each of the currents had an average depth of 100 feet, but in the +deep gorges it was no less than 600 feet. Even as late as 1794 vapors +continued to rise from these great streams, and the water contained in +the numerous fissures formed in their crust was hot. + +The devastation directly wrought by the lava currents themselves was +not the whole of the evils they brought upon unfortunate Iceland and +its inhabitants. Partly owing to the sudden melting of the snows and +glaciers of the mountain, partly owing to the stoppage of the +river courses, immense floods of water deluged the country in +the neighborhood, destroying many villages and a large amount of +agricultural and other property. Twenty villages were overwhelmed by the +lava currents, while the ashes thrown out during the eruption covered +the whole island and the surface of the sea for miles around its +shores. On several occasions the ashes were drifted by the winds over +considerable parts of the European continent, obscuring the sun and +giving the sky a gray and gloomy aspect. In certain respects they +reproduced the phenomena of the explosion of Mount Krakatoa, which, +singularly, occurred just a century later, in 1883. The strange red +sunset phenomena of the latter were reproduced by this Icelandic event +of the eighteenth century. + +Out of the 50,000 persons who then inhabited Iceland, 9,336 perished, +together with 11,460 head of cattle, 190,480 sheep and 28,000 horses. +This dreadful destruction of life was caused partly by the direct action +of the lava currents, partly by the noxious vapors they emitted, partly +by the floods of water, partly by the destruction of the herbage by the +falling ashes, and lastly in consequence of the desertion of the coasts +by the fish, which formed a large portion of the food of the people. + + +ERUPTION OF MOUNT HECLA + + +After this frightful eruption, no serious volcanic disturbance took +place in Iceland until 1845, when Mount Hecla again became disastrously +active. Mount Hecla has been the most frequent in its eruptions of any +of the Icelandic volcanoes. Previous to 1845 there had been twenty-two +recorded eruptions of this mountain, since the discovery of Iceland +in the ninth century; while from all the other volcanoes in the island +there had been only twenty during the same period. Hecla has more than +once remained in activity for six years at a time--a circumstance that +has rendered it the best known of the volcanoes of this region. + + +LATER OUTBREAKS + + +After enjoying a long rest of seventy-nine years, this volcano burst +again into violent activity in the beginning of September, 1845. The +first inkling of this eruption was conveyed to the British Islands by +a fall of volcanic ashes in the Orkneys, which occurred on the night +of September 2nd during a violent storm. This palpable hint was +soon confirmed by direct intelligence from Copenhagen. On the 1st +of September a severe earthquake, followed the same night by fearful +subterranean noises, alarmed the inhabitants and gave warning of what +was to come. About noon the next day, with a dreadful crash, there +opened in the sides of the volcano two new mouths, whence two great +streams of glowing lava poured forth. They fortunately flowed down the +northern and northwestern sides of the mountain, where the low grounds +are mere barren heaths, affording a scanty pasture for a few sheep. +These were driven before the fiery stream, but several of them were +burnt before they could escape. The whole mountain was enveloped in +clouds of volcanic ashes and vapors. The rivers near the lava currents +became so hot as to kill the fish, and to be impassable even on +horseback. + +About a fortnight later there was a fresh eruption, of greater violence, +which lasted twenty-two hours, and was accompanied by detonations so +loud as to be heard over the whole island. Two new craters were formed, +one on the southern, the other on the eastern slope of the cone. The +lava issuing from these craters flowed to a distance of more than +twenty-two miles. At about two miles from its source the fiery stream +was a mile wide, and from 40 to 50 feet deep. It destroyed a large +extent of fine pasture and many cattle. Nearly a month later, on the +15th of October, a fresh flood of lava burst from the southern crater, +and soon heaped up a mass at the foot of the mountain from 40 to 60 feet +in height, three great columns of vapor, dust and ashes rising at +the same time from the three new craters of the volcano. The mountain +continued in a state of greater or less activity during most of the +next year; and even as late as the month of October, 1846, after a brief +pause, it began again with renewed vehemence. The volumes of dust, ashes +and vapor, thrown up from the craters, and brightly illuminated by the +glowing lava beneath, assumed the appearance of flames, and ascended to +an immense height. + + +ELECTRIC PHENOMENA + + +Among the stones tossed out of the craters was one large mass of pumice +weighing nearly half a ton, which was carried to a distance of between +four and five miles. The rivers were flooded by the melting of ice +and snow which had accumulated on the mountain. The greatest mischief +wrought by these successive eruptions was the destruction of the +pasturages, which were for the most part covered with volcanic ashes. +Even where left exposed, the herbage acquired a poisonous taint which +proved fatal to the cattle, inducing among them a peculiar murrain. +Fortunately, owing to the nature of the district through which the lava +passed, there was on this occasion no loss of human life. + +The Icelandic volcanoes are remarkable for the electric phenomena which +they produce in the atmosphere. Violent thunder-storms, with showers +of rain and hail, are frequent accompaniments of volcanic eruptions +everywhere; but owing to the coldness and dryness of the air into which +the vapors from the Icelandic volcanoes ascend, their condensation is so +sudden and violent that great quantities of electricity are developed. +Thunder-storms accompanied by the most vivid lightnings are the result. +Humboldt mentions in his "Cosmos" that, during an eruption of Kotlugja, +one of the southern Icelandic volcanoes, the lightning from the cloud of +volcanic vapor killed eleven horses and two men (Cosmos i. 223). Great +displays of the aurora borealis usually accompany the volcanic eruptions +of this island--doubtless resulting from the quantity of electricity +imparted to the higher atmosphere by the condensation of the ascending +vapors. On the 18th of August, 1783, while the great eruption of Skaptar +Jokull was in progress, an immense fire-ball passed over England and the +European continent as far as Rome. This ball which was estimated to +have had a diameter exceeding half a mile, is supposed to have been of +electrical origin, and due to the high state of electric tension in the +atmosphere over Iceland at that time. + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +Volcanoes of the Philippines and Other Pacific Islands. + + +We cannot do better than open this chapter with an account of the work +of volcanoes in the mountain-girdled East Indian island of Java. This +large and fertile tropical island has a large native population, and +many European settlers are employed in cultivating spices, coffee and +woods. The island is rather more than 600 miles long, and it is not 150 +miles broad in any part; and this narrow shape is produced by a chain of +volcanoes which runs along it. There is scarcely any other region in +the world where volcanoes are so numerous, even in the East, where the +volcano is a very common product of nature. Some of the volcanoes of +Java are constantly in eruption, while others are inactive. + +One of their number, Galung Gung, was previous to 1822 covered from top +to bottom with a dense forest; around it were populous villages. The +mountain was high; there was a slight hollow on its top--a basin-like +valley, carpeted with the softest sward; brooks rippled down the +hillside through the forests, and, joining their silvery streams, flowed +on through beautiful valleys into the distant sea. In the month of July, +1822, there were signs of an approaching disturbance; this tranquil +peacefulness was at an end; one of the rivers became muddy, and its +waters grew hot. + +In October, without any warning, a most terrific eruption occurred. A +loud explosion was heard; the earth shook, and immense columns of hot +water, boiling mud mixed with burning brimstone, ashes and stones, were +hurled upwards from the mountain top like a waterspout, and with such +wonderful force that large quantities fell at a distance of forty miles. +Every valley near the mountain became filled with burning torrents; +the rivers, swollen with hot water and mud, overflowed their banks, +and swept away the escaping villagers; and the bodies of cattle, wild +beasts, and birds were carried down the flooded stream. + + +ERUPTION OF GALUNG GUNG + + +A space of twenty-four miles between the mountain and a river forty +miles distant was covered to such a depth with blue mud, that people +were buried in their houses, and not a trace of the numerous villages +and plantations was visible. The boiling mud and cinders were cast forth +with such violence from the crater, that while many distant villages +were utterly destroyed and buried, others much nearer the volcano were +scarcely injured; and all this was done in five short hours. + +Four days afterwards a second eruption occurred more violent than the +first, and hot water and mud were cast forth with masses of slag like +the rock called basalt some of which fell seven miles off. A violent +earthquake shook the whole district, and the top of the mountain fell +in, and so did one of its sides, leaving a gaping chasm. Hills appeared +where there had been level land before, and the rivers changed their +courses, drowning in one night 2,000 people. At some distance from the +mountain a river runs through a large town, and the first intimation the +inhabitants had of all this horrible destruction was the news that the +bodies of men and the carcases of stags, rhinoceroses, tigers, and other +animals, were rushing along to the sea. No less than 114 villages +were destroyed, and above 4,000 persons were killed by this terrible +catastrophe. + +Fifty years before this eruption, Mount Papandayang, one of the highest +burning mountains of Java, was constantly throwing out steam and smoke, +but as no harm was done, the natives continued to live on its sides. +Suddenly this enormous mountain fell in, and left a gap fifteen miles +long and six broad. Forty villages were destroyed, some being carried +down and others overwhelmed by mud and burning lava. No less than 2,957 +people perished, with vast numbers of cattle; moreover, most of the +coffee plantations in the neighboring districts were destroyed. + +Even more terrible was the eruption of Mount Salek, another of the +volcanoes of Java. The burning of the mountain was seen 100 miles away, +while the thunders of its convulsions and the tremblings of the +earth reached the same distance. Seven hills, at whose base ran +a river--crowded with dead buffaloes, deer, apes, tigers, and +crocodiles--slipped down and became a level plain. River-courses were +changed, forests were burnt up, and the whole face of the country was +completely altered. + +Later volcanic eruptions in Java include that of 1843, when Mount Guntur +flung out sand and ashes estimated at the vast total of thirty million +tons, and those of 1849 and 1872 when Mount Merapi, a very active +volcano, covered a great extent of country with stones and ashes, and +ruined the coffee plantations of the neighboring districts. + +We have said nothing concerning the most terrible explosion of all, that +of the volcanic island of Krakatoa, off the Javan coast. This event was +so phenomenal as to deserve a chapter of its own, for which we reserve +it. + +The United States, as one result of its recent acquisition of island +dominions, has added largely to its wealth in volcanic mountains. The +famous Hawaiian craters, far the greatest in the world, now belong to +our national estate, and the Philippine Islands contain various others, +of less importance, yet some of which have proved very destructive. A +description of those of the Island of Luzon, which are the most active +in the archipelago, is here sub-joined. + + +THE LUZON VOLCANOES. + + +Volcanoes have played an important part in the formation of the +Philippine Islands and have left traces of their former activity in all +directions. Most of them, however, have long been dead and silent, only +a few of the once numerous group being now active. Of these there are +three of importance in the southern region of Luzon--Taal, Bulusan and +Mayon or Albay. + +The last named of these is the largest and most active of the existing +volcanoes. In form it is of marvellous grace and beauty, forming a +perfect cone, about fifty miles in circuit at base and rising to a +height of 8,900 feet. It is one of the most prominent landmarks to +navigators in the island. From its crater streams upward a constant +smoke, accompanied at times by flame, while from its depths issue +subterranean sounds, often heard at a distance of many leagues. The +whole surrounding country is marked by evidences of old eruptions. + +This mountain, in 1767, sent up a cone of flame of forty feet in +diameter at base, for ten days, and for two months a wide stream of lava +poured from its crater. A month later there gushed forth great floods of +water, which filled the rivers to overflow, doing widespread damage +to the neighboring plantations. But its greatest and most destructive +eruption took place in 1812, the year of the great eruption of the St. +Vincent volcano. On this fatal occasion several towns were destroyed and +no less than 12,000 people lost their lives. The debris flung forth +from the crater were so abundant that deposits deep enough to bury the +tallest trees were formed near the mountain. In 1867 another disastrous +explosion took place, and still another in 1888. A disaster different +in kind and cause occurred in 1876, when a terrible tropical storm burst +upon the mountain. The floods of rain swept from its sides the loose +volcanic material, and brought destruction to the neighboring country, +more than six thousand houses being ruined by the rushing flood. + + +BULUSAN AND TAAL + + +Bulusan, a volcano on the southern extremity of the island, resembles +Vesuvius in shape. For many years it remained dormant, but in 1852 smoke +began to issue from its crater. In some respects the most interesting +of these three volcanoes is that of Taal, which lies almost due south +of Manila and about forty-five miles distant, on a small island in +the middle of a large lake, known as Bombom or Bongbong. A remarkable +feature of this volcanic mountain is that it is probably the lowest in +the world, its height being only 850 feet above sea level. There are +doubtful traditions that Lake Bombom, a hundred square miles in extent, +was formed by a terrible eruption in 1700, by which a lofty mountain +8000 or 9000 feet high, was destroyed. The vast deposits of porous +tufa in the surrounding country are certainly evidences of former great +eruptions from Mount Taal. + +The crater of this volcano is an immense, cup-shaped depression, a mile +or more in diameter and about 800 feet deep. When recently visited by +Professor Worcester, during his travels in these islands, he found it to +contain three boiling lakelets of strangely-colored water, one being of +a dirty brown hue, a second intensely yellow in tint, and the third of a +brilliant emerald green. The mountain still steams and fumes, as if too +actively at work below to be at rest above. In past times it has shown +the forces at play in its depths by breaking at times into frightful +activity. Of the various explosions on record, the three most violent +were those of 1716, 1749, and 1754. In the last-named year the earth for +miles round quaked with the convulsive throes of the deeply disturbed +mountain, and vast quantities of volcanic dust were hurled high into the +air, sufficient to make it dark at midday for many leagues around. +The roofs of distant Manila were covered with volcanic dust and ashes. +Molten lava also poured from the crater and flowed into the lake, which +boiled with the intense heat, while great showers of stones and ashes +fell into its waters. + + +VOLCANOES IN THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS + + +Extinct volcanoes are numerous in Luzon, and there are smoking cones +in the north, and also in the Babuyanes Islands still farther north. +Volcanoes also exist in several of the other islands. On Negros is the +active peak of Malaspina, and on Camiguin, an island about ninety miles +to the southeast, a new volcano broke out in 1876. The large island of +Mindanao has three volcanoes, of which Cottabato was in eruption in +1856 and is still active at intervals. Apo, the largest of the three, +estimated to be 10,312 feet high, has three summits, within which lies +the great crater, now extinct and filled with water. + +In evidence of former volcanic activity are the abundant deposits of +sulphur on the island of Leyte, the hot springs in various localities, +and the earthquakes which occasionally bring death and destruction. Of +the many of these on record, the most destructive was in 1863, when 400 +people were killed and 2,000 injured, while many buildings were wrecked. +Another in 1880 wrought great destruction in Manila and elsewhere, +though without loss of life. An earthquake in Mindanao in 1675 opened a +passage to the sea, and a vast plain emerged. These convulsions of the +earth affect the form and elevation of buildings, which are rarely more +than two stories high and lightly built, while translucent sea-shells +replace glass in their windows. + +While Java is the most prolific in volcanoes of the islands of the +Malayan Archipelago, other islands of the group possess active cones, +including Sumatra, Bali, Amboyna, Banda and others. In Sanguir, an +island north of Celebes, is a volcanic mountain from which there was +a destructive eruption in 1856. The country was devastated with lava, +stones and volcanic ashes, ruining a wide district and killing nearly +3,000 of the inhabitants. Mount Madrian in one of the Spice Islands, was +rent in twain by a fierce eruption in 1646, and since then has remained +two distinct mountains. It became active again in 1862, after two +centuries of repose, and caused great loss of life and property. +Sorea, a small island of the same group, forming but a single volcanic +mountain, had an eruption in 1693, the cone crumbling gradually till +a vast crater was formed, filled with liquid lava and occupying nearly +half the island. This lake of fire increased in size by the same process +till in the end it took possession of the island and forced all the +inhabitants to flee to more hospitable shores. + + +THE GREAT ERUPTION OF TOMBORO + + +But of the East Indian Islands Sumbawa, lying east of Java, contains +the most formidable volcano--one indeed scarcely without a rival in the +world. This is named Tomboro. Of its various eruptions the most furious +on record was that of 1815. This, as we are told by Sir Stamford +Raffles, far exceeded in force and duration any of the known outbreaks +of Etna or Vesuvius. The ground trembled and the echoes of its roar +were heard through an area of 1,000 miles around the volcano, and to a +distance of 300 miles its effects were astounding. + +In Java, 300 miles away, ashes filled the air so thickly that the solar +rays could not penetrate them, and fell to the depth of several inches. +The detonations were so similar to the reports of artillery as to be +mistaken for them. The Rajah of Sang'ir, who was an eye-witness of the +eruption, thus described it to Sir Stamford: + +"About 7 P. M. on the 10th of April, three distinct columns of flame +burst forth near the top of the Tomboro mountain (all of them apparently +within the verge of the crater), and, after ascending separately to a +very great height, their tops united in the air in a troubled, confused +manner. In short time the whole mountain next Sang'ir appeared like a +body of liquid fire, extending itself in every direction. The fire +and columns of flame continued to rage with unabated fury, until the +darkness caused by the quantity of falling matter obscured them, at +about 8 P. M. Stones at this time fell very thick at Sang'ir--some +of them as large as two fists, but generally not larger than walnuts. +Between 9 and 10 P. M. ashes began to fall, and soon after a violent +whirlwind ensued, which blew down nearly every house in the village of +Sang'ir--carrying the roofs and light parts away with it. In the port of +Sang'ir, adjoining Tomboro, its effects were much more violent--tearing +up by the roots the largest trees, and carrying them into the air, +together with men, horses, cattle, and whatever else came within its +influence. This will account for the immense number of floating trees +seen at sea. The sea rose nearly twelve feet higher than it had ever +been known to do before, and completely spoiled the only spots of +rice-land in Sang'ir--sweeping away houses and everything within its +reach. The whirlwind lasted about an hour. No explosions were heard +till the whirlwind had ceased, at about 11 P.M. From midnight till the +evening of the 11th, they continued without intermission. After that +time their violence moderated, and they were heard only at intervals; +but the explosions did not cease entirely until the 15th of July. Of all +the villages of Tomboro, Tempo, containing about forty inhabitants, +is the only one remaining. In Pekate no vestige of a house is left; +twenty-six of the people, who were at Sumbawa at the time, are the whole +of the population who have escaped. From the most particular inquiries +I have been able to make, there were certainly no fewer than 12,000 +individuals in Tomboro and Pekate at the time of the eruption, of whom +only five or six survive. The trees and herbage of every description, +along the whole of the north and west sides of the peninsula, have been +completely destroyed, with the exception of those on a high point of +land, near the spot where the village of Tomboro stood." + +Tomboro village was not only invaded by the sea on this occasion, but +its site permanently subsided; so that there is now eighteen feet of +water where there was formerly dry land. + + +THE VOLCANOES OF JAPAN + + +The Japanese archipelago, as stated in an earlier chapter, is abundantly +supplied with volcanoes, a number of them being active. Of these the +best known to travelers is Asamayama, a mountain 8,500 feet high, of +which there are several recorded eruptions. The first of these was in +1650; after which the volcano remained feebly active till 1783, when it +broke out in a very severe eruption. In 1870 there was another of some +severity, accompanied by violent shocks of earthquake felt at Yokohama. +The crater is very deep, with irregular rocky walls of a sulphurous +character. + +Far the most famous of all the Japanese mountains, however, is that +named Fuji-san, but commonly termed in English Fujiyama or Fusiyama. It +is in the vicinity of the capital, and is the most prominent object in +the landscape for many miles around. The apex is shaped somewhat like an +eight-petaled lotus flower, and offers to view from different directions +from three to five peaks. + +Though now apparently extinct, it was formerly an active volcano, and is +credited in history with several very disastrous eruptions. The last +of these was in 1707, at which time the whole summit burst into flames. +Rocks were split and shattered by the heat, and stones fell to the depth +of several inches in Yeddo (now Tokyo), sixty miles away. At present +there are in its crater, which has a depth of 700 or 800 feet, neither +sulphurous exhalations nor steam. According to Japanese tradition this +great peak was upheaved in a single night from the bottom of the sea, +more than twenty-one hundred years ago. + +Nothing can be more majestic than this volcano, extinct though it be, +rising in an immense cone from the plain to the height of over twelve +thousand feet, truncated at the top, and with its peak almost always +snow-covered. Its ascent is not difficult to an expert climber, and has +frequently been made. From its summit is unfolded a panorama beyond +the power of words to describe, and probably the most remarkable on the +globe. Mountains, valleys, lakes, forests and the villages of thirteen +counties may be seen. As we gaze upon its beautifully shaped and lofty +mass, visible even from Yokohama and a hundred miles at sea, one does +not wonder that it should be regarded as a holy mountain, and that it +should form a conspicuous object in every Japanese work of art. It is +to the natives of Japan as Mont Blanc is to Europeans, the "monarch of +mountains." + +In summer pilgrimages are made around the base of the summit elevation, +and there are on the upward path a number of Buddhist temples and +shrines, made of blocks of stone, for devotion, shelter and the storage +of food for pilgrims. Hakone Lake is three thousand feet above the sea, +and probably lies in the crater of an extinct volcano. Its waters are +very deep; it is several miles long and wide, and is surrounded by high +hills which abound in fine scenery, solfataras and mineral springs. + + +HOT SPRINGS NEAR HAKONE LAKE + + +At this place the mountain seems to be smouldering, as sulphur fumes +and steam issue at many points, and the ground is covered with a friable +white alkaline substance. In many a hollow the water bubbles with clouds +of vapor and sulphuretted hydrogen; here the soil is hot and evidently +underlaid by active fires. It is not safe to go very near, as the crust +is thin and crumbling. The water running down the hills has a refreshing +sound and a tempting clearness, but the thirsty tongue at once detects +it to be a very strong solution of alum. The whole aspect of the place +is infernal, and naturally suggests the name given its principal geyser, +O-gigoko (Big Hell). + +Fujiyama is almost a perfect cone, with, as above said, a truncated top, +in which is the crater. It is, however, less steep than Mayon. Its upper +part is comparatively steep, even to thirty-five degrees, but below this +portion the inclination gradually lessens, till its elegant outlines are +lost in the plain from which it rises. The curves of the sides depend +partly on the nature, size and shape of the ejected material, the fine +uniform pieces remaining on comparatively steep slopes, while the larger +and rounder ones roll farther down, resting on the inclination that +afterward becomes curved from the subsidence of the central mass. + +The most recent and one of the most destructive of volcanic eruptions +recorded in Japan was that of Bandaisan or Baldaisan. For ages this +mountain had been peaceful, and there was scarcely an indication of +its volcanic character or of the terrific forces which lay dormant deep +within its heart. On its flanks lay some small deposits of scoriae, +indications of far-past eruptions, and there were some hot springs at +its base, while steam arose from a fissure. Yet there was nothing to +warn the people of the vicinity that deadly peril lay under their feet. + + +BANDAISAN'S WORK OF TERROR + + +This sense of security was fatally dissipated on a day in July, 1888, +when the mountain suddenly broke into eruption and flung 1,600 million +cubic yards of its summit material so high into the air that many of the +falling fragments, in their fall, struck the ground with such velocity +as to be buried far out of sight. The steam and dust were driven to a +height of 13,000 feet, where they spread into a canopy of much greater +elevation, causing pitchy darkness beneath. There were from fifteen to +twenty violent explosions, and a great landslide devastated about thirty +square miles and buried many villages in the Nagase Valley. + +Mr. Norman, a traveler who visited the spot shortly afterward, thus +describes the scene of ruin. After a journey through the forests which +clothed the slopes of the volcanic mountain and prevented any distant +view, the travelers at last found themselves "standing upon the ragged +edge of what was left of the mountain of Bandaisan, after two-thirds of +it, including, of course, the summit, had been literally blown away and +spread over the face of the country. + +"The original cone of the mountain," he continues, "had been truncated +at an acute angle to its axis. From our very feet a precipitous mud +slope falls away for half a mile or more till it reaches the level. At +our right, still below us, rises a mud wall a mile long, also sloping +down to the level, and behind it is evidently the crater; but before us, +for five miles in a straight line, and on each side nearly as far, is +a sea of congealed mud, broken up into ripples and waves and great +billows, and bearing upon its bosom a thousand huge boulders, weighing +hundreds of tons apiece." + +On reaching the crater he found it to resemble a gigantic cauldron, +fully a mile in width, and enclosed with precipitous walls of indurated +mud. From several orifices volumes of steam rose into the air, and when +the vapor cleared away for a moment glimpses of a mass of boiling mud +were obtained. Before the eruption the mountain top had terminated in +three peaks. Of these the highest had an elevation of about 5,800 feet. +The peak destroyed was the middle one, which was rather smaller than the +other two. + +"The explosion was caused by steam; there was neither fire nor lava of +any kind. It was, in fact, nothing more nor less than a gigantic boiler +explosion. The whole top and one side of Sho-Bandai-san had been blown +into the air in a lateral direction, and the earth of the mountain was +converted by the escaping steam, at the moment of the explosion, into +boiling mud, part of which was projected into the air to fall at a long +distance, and then take the form of an overflowing river, which rushed +with vast rapidity and covered the country to a depth of from 20 to 150 +feet. Thirty square miles of country were thus devastated." + +In the devastated lowlands and buried villages below and on the slopes +of the mountain many lives were lost. From the survivors Mr. Norman +gathered some information, enabling him to describe the main features of +the catastrophe. We append a brief outline of his narrative: + + +MR. NORMAN'S NARRATIVE + + +"At a few minutes past 8 o'clock in the morning a frightful noise was +heard by the inhabitants of a village ten miles distant from the crater. +Some of them instinctively took to flight, but before they could run +much more than a hundred yards the light of day was suddenly changed +into a darkness more intense than that of midnight; a shower of blinding +hot ashes and sand poured down upon them; the ground was shaken with +earthquakes, and explosion followed explosion, the last being the most +violent of all. Many fugitives, as well as people in the houses, were +overwhelmed by the deluge of mud, none of the fugitives, when overtaken +by death, being more than two hundred yards from the village." From the +statements made by those fortunate enough to escape with their lives, +and from a personal examination of the ground, Mr. Norman inferred that +the mud must have been flung fully six miles through the air and then +have poured in a torrent along the ground for four miles further. All +this was done in less than five minutes, so that "millions of tons of +boiling mud were hurled over the country at the rate of two miles a +minute." + +The velocity of the mud torrent may perhaps be overestimated, but in its +awful suddenness this catastrophe was evidently one with few equals. The +cone destroyed may have been largely composed of rather fine ashes and +scoriae, which was almost instantaneously converted into mud by the +condensing steam and the boiling water ejected. The quantity of water +thus discharged must have been enormous. + +Of the remaining volcanic regions of the Pacific, the New Zealand +islands present some of the most striking examples of activity. All +the central parts, indeed, of the northern island of the group are of a +highly volcanic character. There is here a mountain named Tongariro, on +whose snow-clad summit is a deep crater, from which volcanic vapors are +seen to issue, and which exhibits other indications of having been in a +state of greater activity at a not very remote period of time. There +is also, at no great distance from this mountain, a region containing +numerous funnel-shaped chasms, emitting hot water, or steam, or +sulphurous vapors, or boiling mud. The earthquakes in New Zealand had +probably their origin in this volcanic focus. + + +THE NEW ZEALAND VOLCANOES + + +Tongariro has a height of about 6,500 feet, while Egmont, 8,270 feet in +height, is a perfect cone with a perpetual cap of snow. There are many +other volcanic mountains, and also great numbers of mud volcanoes, hot +springs and geysers. It is for the latter that the island is best known +to geologists. Their waters are at or near the boiling point and contain +silica in abundance. + +At a place called Rotomahana, in the vicinity of Mount Tarawera, there +was formerly a lake of about one hundred and twenty acres in area, +which was in its way one of the most remarkable bodies of water upon the +earth. Formerly, we say, for this lake no longer exists, it having been +destroyed by the very forces to which it owed its fame. Its waters were +maintained nearly at the boiling point by the continual accession of +boiling water from numerous springs. The most abundant of those sources +was situated at the height of about 100 feet above the level of the +lake. It kept continually filled an oval basin about 250 feet in +circumference--the margins of which were fringed all round with +beautiful pure white stalactites, formed by deposits of silica, with +which the hot water was strongly impregnated. At various stages below +the principal spring were several others, that contributed to feed the +lake at the bottom, in the centre of which was a small island. Minute +bubbles continually escaped from the surface of the water with a hissing +sound, and the sand all round the lake was at a high temperature. If a +stick was thrust into it, very hot vapors would ascend from the hole. +Not far from this lake were several small basins filled with tepid +water, which was very clear, and of a blue color. + +The conditions here were of a kind with those to which are due the great +geysers of Iceland and the Yellowstone Park, but different in the fact +that instead of being intermittent and throwing up jets at intervals, +the springs allowed the water to flow from them in a continuous stream. + + +THE PINK AND WHITE TERRACES + + +The silicious incrustations left by the overflow from the large pool had +made a series of terraces, two to six feet high, with the appearance of +being hewn from white or pink marble; each of the basins containing +a similar azure water. These terraces covered an area of about three +acres, and looked like a series of cataracts changed into stone, each +edge being fringed with a festoon of delicate stalactites. The water +contained about eighty-five per cent. of silica, with one or two per +cent of iron alumina, and a little alkali. + +There were no more beautiful products of nature upon the earth than +those "pink and white terraces," as they were called. The hot springs of +the Yellowstone have produced formations resembling them, but not +their equal in fairy-like charm. One series of these terraced pools and +cascades was of the purest white tint, the other of the most delicate +pink, the waters topping over the edge of each pool and falling in a +miniature cascade to the one next below, thus keeping the edges built +up by a continual renewal of the silicious incrustation. But all their +beauty could not save them from utter and irremediable destruction by +the forces below the earth's surface. + +On June 9, 1886, a great volcanic disturbance began in the Auckland Lake +region with a tremendous earthquake, followed during the night by many +others. At seven the next morning a lead-covered cloud of pumice sand, +advancing from the south, burst and discharged showers of fine dust. +The range of Mount Tarawera seemed to be in full volcanic activity, +including some craters supposed to be extinct, and embracing an area of +one hundred and twenty miles by twenty. + +The showers of dust were so thick as to turn day into night for nearly +two days. Some lives were lost, and several villages were destroyed, +these being covered ten feet deep with ashes, dust and clayey mud. The +volcanic phenomena were of the most violent character, and the whole +island appears to have been more or less convulsed. Mount Tarawera is +said to be five hundred feet higher than before the eruption; glowing +masses were thrown up into the air, and tongues of fiery hue, gases or +illuminated vapors, five hundred feet wide, towered up one thousand feet +high. The mountain was 2,700 feet in height. + + +TARAWERA IN ERUPTION + + +This eruption presented a spectacle of rarely-equalled grandeur. +To travelers and strangers the greatest resultant loss will be the +destruction of those world-famous curiosities, the white and pink +terraces, in the vicinity of Lake Rotomahana and the region of the +famous geysers. The natives have a superstition that the eruption of the +extinct Tarawera was caused by the profanation of foreign footsteps. It +was to them a sacred place, and its crater a repository for their dead. +The first earthquake occurred in this region. One side of the mountain +fell in, and then the eruption began. The basin of the lake was broken +up and disappeared, but again reappeared as a boiling mud cauldron; +craters burst out in various places, and the beautiful terraces were no +more. After the first day the violence gradually diminished, and in a +week had ceased. Very possibly another lake will be formed, and in time +other terraces; but it is hardly within the range of probability that +the beauty of the lost terraces will ever be paralleled. + +In this eruption, as usual, we find the earthquake preceding the +volcanic outburst. New Zealand, like the Philippines, Java and the +Japanese Islands, is situated over a great earth-fissure or line of +weakness. Subsidence or dislocation from tensile strain of the crust +took place, and the influx of water to new regions of heated strata +may have developed the explosive force. The earthquake and the volcano +worked together here, as they frequently do, unfortunately in this case +destroying one of the most beautiful scenes on the surface of the globe. + + +THE ANTARCTIC VOLCANOES + + +Much further south, on the frozen shore of Victoria Land in the +Antarctic regions, Sir James Ross, in 1841, sailing in his discovery +ships the Erebus and Terror, discovered two great volcanic mountains, +which he named after those two vessels. Mount Erebus is continually +covered, from top to bottom, with snow and glaciers. The mountain is +about 12,000 feet high, and although the snow reaches to the very edge +of the crater, there rise continually from the summit immense volumes of +volcanic fumes, illuminated by the glare of glowing lava beneath them. +The vapors ascend to an estimated height of 2,200 feet above the top of +the mountain. + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +The Wonderful Hawaiian Craters and Kilauea's Lake of Fire. + + +In the central region of the North Pacific Ocean lies the archipelago +formerly known as the Sandwich Islands, now collectively designated as +Hawaii. The people of the United States should be specially interested +in this island group, for it has become one of our possessions, an +outlying Territory of our growing Republic, and in making it part of +our national domain we have not alone extended our dominion far over the +seas, but have added to the many marvels of nature within our land one +of the chief wonders of the world, the stupendous Hawaiian +volcanoes, before whose grandeur many of more ancient fame sink into +insignificance. + + +THE ISLAND OF HAWAII + + +The Island of Hawaii, the principal island of the group, we may safely +say contains the most enormous volcano of the earth. Indeed, the whole +island, which is 4000 square miles in extent, may be regarded as of +volcanic origin. It contains four volcanic mountains--Kohola, Hualalia, +Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. The two last named are the chief, the former +being 13,800 feet, the latter 13,600 feet, above the sea-level. Although +their height is so vast, the ascent to their summits is so gradual that +their circumference at the base is enormous. The bulk of each of them is +reckoned to be equal to two and a half times that of Etna. Some of the +streams of lava which have emanated from them are twenty-six miles in +length by two miles in breadth. + +On the adjoining island of Maui is a still larger volcano, the mighty +Haleakala, long since extinct, but memorable as possessing the most +stupendous crater on the face of the earth. The mountain itself is +over 10,000 feet high, and forms a great dome-like mass of 90 miles +circumference at base. The crater on its summit has a length of 7 1/2 +and a width of 2 1/4 miles, with a total area of about sixteen square +miles. The only approach in dimensions to this enormous opening exists +in the still living crater of Kilauea, on the flank of Mauna Loa. + + +A VOLCANIC ISLAND GROUP + + +The peaks named are the most apparent remnants of a world-rending +volcanic activity in the remote past, by whose force this whole Hawaiian +island group was lifted up from the depths of the ocean, here descending +some three and a half miles below the surface level. The coral reefs +which abound around the islands are of comparatively recent formation, +and rest upon a substratum of lava probably ages older, which forms the +base of the archipelago. The islands are volcanic peaks and ridges that +have been pushed up above the surrounding seas by the profound action of +the interior forces of the earth. + +It must not be supposed that this action was a violent perpendicular +thrust upward over a very limited locality, for the mountains continue +to slope at about the same angle under the sea and for great distances +on every side, so that the islands are really the crests of an extensive +elevation, estimated to cover an area of about 2000 miles in one +direction by 150 or 200 miles in the other. The process was probably +a gradual one of up-building, by means of which the sea receded as the +land steadily rose. Some idea of the mighty forces that have been at +work beneath the sea and above it can be gained by considering the +enormous mass of material now above the sea-level. Thus, the bulk of the +island of Hawaii, the largest of the group, has been estimated by the +Hawaiian Surveyor General as containing 3,600 cubic miles of lava rock +above sea-level. Taking the area of England at 50,000 square miles, this +mass of volcanic matter would cover that entire country to a depth of +274 feet. We must remember, however, that what is above sea-level is +only a small fraction of the total amount, since it sweeps down below +the waves hundreds of miles on every side. + + +CRATER OF HALEAKALA + + +Of the lava openings on these islands, the extinct one of Haleakala, +as stated, with its twenty-seven miles circumference, is far the most +stupendous. It is easy of access, the mountain sides leading to it +presenting a gentle slope; while the walls of the crater, in places +perpendicular, in others are so sloping that man and horse can descend +them. The pit varies from 1500 to 2000 feet in depth, its bottom being +very irregular from the old lava flows and the many cinder cones, these +still looking as fresh as though their fires had just gone out. Some +of these cones are over 500 feet high. There is a tradition among the +natives that the vast lava streams which in the past flowed from the +crater to the sea continued to do so in the period of their remote +ancestors. They still, indeed, appear as if recent, though there are +to-day no signs of volcanic activity anywhere on this island. + +In fact, the only volcano now active in the Hawaiian Islands is Mauna +Loa, in the southern section of the Island of Hawaii. A striking feature +of this is that it has two distinct and widely disconnected craters, one +on its summit, the other on its flank, at a much lower level. The latter +is the vast crater of Kilauea, the largest active crater known on the +face of the globe. + + +MISS BIRD IN THE CRATER OF KILAUEA + + +We cannot offer a better description of the aspect of this lava abyss +than to give Miss Bird's eloquent description of her adventurous descent +into it: + +"The abyss, which really is at a height of four thousand feet on the +flank of Mauna Loa, has the appearance of a pit on a rolling plain. But +such a pit! It is quite nine miles in circumference, and at its lowest +area--which not long ago fell about three hundred feet, just as the ice +on a pond falls when the water below is withdrawn--covers six square +miles. The depth of the crater varies from eight hundred to one thousand +feet, according as the molten sea below is at flood or ebb. Signs of +volcanic activity are present more or less throughout its whole depth +and for some distance along its margin, in the form of steam-cracks, +jets of sulphurous vapor, blowing cones, accumulating deposits of +acicular crystals of sulphur, etc., and the pit itself is constantly +rent and shaken by earthquakes. Great eruptions occur with circumstances +of indescribable terror and dignity; but Kilauea does not limit its +activity to these outbursts, but has exhibited its marvellous phenomena +through all known time in a lake or lakes on the southern part of the +crater three miles from this side. + +"This lake--the Hale-mau-mau, or 'House of everlasting Fire', of +the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess Pele--is +approachable with safety, except during an eruption. The spectacle, +however, varies almost daily; and at times the level of the lava in the +pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating gases are evolved in +such enormous quantities, that travellers are unable to see anything. + +"At the time of our visit there had been no news from it for a week; and +as nothing was to be seen but a very faint bluish vapor hanging round +its margin, the prospect was not encouraging. After more than an hour +of very difficult climbing, we reached the lowest level of the crater, +pretty nearly a mile across, presenting from above the appearance of a +sea at rest; but on crossing it, we found it to be an expanse of waves +and convolutions of ashy-colored lava, with huge cracks filled up with +black iridescent rolls of lava only a few weeks old. Parts of it are +very rough and ridgy, jammed together like field-ice, or compacted by +rolls of lava, which may have swelled up from beneath; but the largest +part of the area presents the appearance of huge coiled hawsers, the +ropy formation of the lava rendering the illusion almost perfect. These +are riven by deep cracks, which emit hot sulphurous vapors. + +"As we ascended, the flow became hotter under our feet, as well as more +porous and glistening. It was so hot that a shower of rain hissed as it +fell upon it. The crust became increasingly insecure, and necessitated +our walking in single file with the guide in front, to test the security +of the footing. I fell through several times, and always into holes full +of sulphurous steam so malignantly acid that my strong dogskin gloves +were burned through as I raised myself on my hands. + +"We had followed the lava-flow for thirty miles up to the crater's +brink, and now we had toiled over recent lava for three hours, and, by +all calculations, were close to the pit; yet there was no smoke or sign +of fire, and I felt sure that the volcano had died out for once for my +special disappointment. + +"Suddenly, just above and in front of us, gory drops were tossed in +the air, and springing forwards, we stood on the brink of Hale-mau-mau, +which was about thirty-five feet below us. I think we all screamed. I +know we all wept; but we were speechless, for a new glory and terror had +been added to the earth. It is the most unutterable of wonderful things. +The words of common speech are quite useless. It is unimaginable, +indescribable; a sight to remember forever; a sight which at once took +possession of every faculty of sense and soul, removing one altogether +out of the range of ordinary life. Here was the real 'bottomless pit', +'the fire which is not quenched', 'the place of Hell', 'the lake which +burneth with fire and brimstone', 'the everlasting burnings', 'the fiery +sea whose waves are never weary'. Perhaps those Scripture phrases +were suggested by the sight of some volcano in eruption. There were +groanings, rumblings, and detonations; rushings, hissings, splashings, +and the crashing sound of breakers on the coast; but it was the surging +of fiery waves upon a fiery shore. But what can I write? Such words as +jets, fountains, waves, spray, convey some idea of order and regularity, +but here there are none. + +"The inner lake, while we stood there, formed a sort of crater within +itself; the whole lava sea rose about three feet; a blowing cone about +eight feet high was formed; it was never the same two minutes together. +And what we saw had no existence a month before, and probably will be +changed in every essential feature a month from hence. The prominent +object was fire in motion; but the surface of the double lake was +continually skimming over for a second or two with a cool crust of +lustrous grey-white, like frost-silver, broken by jagged cracks of a +bright rose-color. The movement was nearly always from the sides to the +centre; but the movement of the centre itself appeared independent, and +always took a southerly direction. Before each outburst of agitation +there was much hissing and throbbing, with internal roaring as of +imprisoned gases. Now it seemed furious, demoniacal, as if no power +on earth could bind it, then playful and sportive; then for a second +languid, but only because it was accumulating fresh force. Sometimes the +whole lake took the form of mighty waves, and, surging heavily against +the partial barrier with a sound like the Pacific surf, lashed, tore, +covered it, and threw itself over it in clots of living fire. It was all +confusion, commotion, forces, terror, glory, majesty, mystery, and even +beauty. And the color, 'eye hath not seen' it! Molten metal hath not +that crimson gleam, nor blood that living light." + +To this description we may add that of Mr. Ellis, a former missionary to +these islands, and one of the number who have descended to the shores of +Kilauea's abyss of fire. He says, after describing his difficult descent +and progress over the lava-strewn pit: + + +MR. ELLIS VISITS THE LAKE OF LAVA + + +"Immediately before us yawned an immense gulf, in the form of a +crescent, about two miles in length, from northeast to southwest; nearly +a mile in width, and apparently 800 feet deep. The bottom was covered +with lava, and the southwestern and northern parts of it were one vast +flood of burning matter in a state of terrific ebullition, rolling +to and fro its 'fiery surges' and flaming billows. Fifty-one conical +islands, of varied form and size, containing as many craters, rose +either round the edge or from the surface of the burning lake; +twenty-two constantly emitted columns of gray smoke or pyramids of +brilliant flame, and several of these at the same time vomited from +their ignited mouths streams of lava, which rolled in blazing torrents +down their black indented sides into the boiling mass below. + +"The existence of these conical craters led us to conclude that the +boiling cauldron of lava before us did not form the focus of the +volcano; that this mass of melted lava was comparatively shallow, and +that the basin in which it was contained was separated by a stratum of +solid matter from the great volcanic abyss, which constantly poured +out its melted contents through these numerous craters into this +upper reservoir. The sides of the gulf before us, although composed of +different strata of ancient lava, were perpendicular for about 400 feet, +and rose from a wide horizontal ledge of solid black lava of irregular +breadth, but extending completely round. Beneath this ledge the sides +sloped gradually towards the burning lake, which was, as nearly as we +could judge, 300 or 400 feet lower. + +"It was evident that the large crater had been recently filled with +liquid lava up to this black ledge, and had, by some subterraneous +canal, emptied itself into the sea or spread under the low land on the +shore. The gray and in some places apparently calcined sides of the +great crater before us, the fissures which intersected the surface of +the plain on which we were standing, the long banks of sulphur on the +opposite side of the abyss, the vigorous action of the numerous small +craters on its borders, the dense columns of vapor and smoke that rose +at the north and west end of the plain, together with the ridge of steep +rocks by which it was surrounded, rising probably in some places 300 +or 400 feet in perpendicular height, presented an immense volcanic +panorama, the effect of which was greatly augmented by the constant +roaring of the vast furnaces below." + + +MAUNA LOA IN ERUPTION + + +Of the two great craters of Mauna Loa, the summit one has frequently +in modern times overflowed its crest and poured its molten streams in +glowing rivers over the land. This has rarely been the case with the +lower and incessantly active crater of Kilauea, whose lava, when in +excess, appears to escape by subterranean channels to the sea. We append +descriptions of some of the more recent examples of Mauna Loa's eruptive +energy. The lava from this crater does not alone flow over the crater's +lip, but at times makes its way through fissures far below, the immense +pressure causing it to spout in great flashing fountains high into the +air. In 1852 the fiery fountains reached a height of 500 feet. In some +later eruptions they have leaped 1,000 feet high. The lava is white hot +as it ascends, but it assumes a blood-red tint in its fall, and strikes +the ground with a frightful noise. + +The quantities of lava ejected in some of the recent eruptions have been +enormous. The river-like flow of 1855 was remarkable for its extent, +being from two to eight miles wide, with a depth of from three to three +hundred feet, and extending in a winding course for a distance of sixty +miles. The Apostle of Hawaiian volcanoes, the Rev. Titus Coan, who +ventured to the source of this flow while it was in supreme action, thus +describes it:-- + +"We ascended our rugged pathway amidst steam and smoke and heat which +almost blinded and scathed us. We came to open orifices down which we +looked into the fiery river which rushed madly under our feet. These +fiery vents were frequent, some of them measuring ten, twenty, fifty +or one hundred feet in diameter. In one place we saw the river of lava +uncovered for thirty rods and rushing down a declivity of from ten to +twenty-five degrees. The scene was awful, the momentum incredible, the +fusion perfect (white heat), and the velocity forty miles an hour. The +banks on each side of the stream were red-hot, jagged and overhanging. +As we viewed it rushing out from under its ebon counterpane, and in the +twinkling of an eye diving again into its fiery den, it seemed to say, +'Stand off! Scan me not! I am God's messenger. A work to do. Away!'" + +Later he wrote again:--"The great summit fountain is still playing with +fearful energy, and the devouring stream rushes madly down toward us. It +is now about ten miles distant, and heading directly for our bay. In +a few days we may be called to announce the painful fact that our +beauteous Hilo is no more,--that our lovely, our inimitable landscape, +our emerald bowers, our crescent strand and our silver bay are blotted +out. A fiery sword hangs over us. A flood of burning ruin approaches us. +Devouring fires are near us. With sure and solemn progress the glowing +fusion advances through the dark forest and the dense jungle in our +rear, cutting down ancient trees of enormous growth and sweeping away +all vegetable life. For months the great summit furnace on Mauna Loa has +been in awful blast. Floods of burning destruction have swept wildly +and widely over the top and down the sides of the mountain. The wrathful +stream has overcome every obstacle, winding its fiery way from its high +source to the bases of the everlasting hills, spreading in a molten sea +over the plains, penetrating the ancient forests, driving the bellowing +herds, the wild goats and the affrighted birds before its lurid glare, +leaving nothing but ebon blackness and smoldering ruin in its track." + +His anticipation of the burial of Hilo under the mighty flow was happily +not realized. It came to an abrupt halt while seven miles distant, the +checked stream standing in a threatening and rugged ridge, with rigid, +beetling front. + + +THE ERUPTIONS OF 1859 AND 1865 + + +In January, 1859, Mauna Loa was again at its fire-play, throwing up +lava fountains from 800 to 1,000 feet in height. From this great fiery +fountain the lava flowed down in numerous streams, spreading over a +width of five or six miles. One stream, probably formed by the junction +of several smaller, attained a height of from twenty to twenty-five +feet, and a breadth of about an eighth of a mile. Great stones were +thrown up along with the jet of lava, and the volume of seeming smoke, +composed probably of fine volcanic dust, is said to have risen to the +height of 10,000 feet. + +An eruption of still greater violence took place in 1865, characterized +by similar phenomena, particularly the throwing up of jets of lava. This +fiery fountain continued to play without intermission for twenty days +and nights, varying only as respects the height to which the jet arose, +which is said to have ranged between 100 and 1,000 feet, the mean +diameter of the jet being about 100 feet. This eruption was accompanied +by explosions so loud as to have been heard at a distance of forty +miles. + +A cone of about 300 feet in height, and about a mile in circumference, +was accumulated round the orifice whence the jet ascended. It was +composed of solid matters ejected with the lava, and it continued +to glow like a furnace, notwithstanding its exposure to the air. The +current of lava on this occasion flowed to a distance of thirty-five +miles, burning its way through the forests, and filling the air with +smoke and flames from the ignited timber. The glare from the glowing +lava and the burning trees together was discernible by night at a +distance of 200 miles from the island. + + +THE LAVA FLOW OF 1880 + + +A succeeding great lava flow was that which began on November 6, 1880. +Mr. David Hitchcock, who was camping on Mauna Kea at the time of this +outbreak, saw a spectacle that few human eyes have ever beheld. "We +stood," writes he, "on the very edge of that flowing river of rock. Oh, +what a sight it was! Not twenty feet from us was this immense bed of +rock slowly moving forward with irresistible force, bearing on its +surface huge rocks and immense boulders of tons' weight as water would +carry a toy-boat. The whole front edge was one bright red mass of solid +rock incessantly breaking off from the towering mass and rolling down +to the foot of it, to be again covered by another avalanche of white-hot +rocks and sand. The whole mass at its front edge was from twelve to +thirty feet in height. Along the entire line of its advance it was +one crash of rolling, sliding, tumbling red-hot rock. We could hear no +explosions while we were near the flow, only a tremendous roaring like +ten thousand blast furnaces all at work at once." + +This was the most extensive flow of recent years, and its progress from +the interior plain through the dense forests above Hilo and out on to +the open levels close to the town was startling and menacing enough. +Through the woods especially it was a turbulent, seething mass that +hurled down mammoth trees, and licked up streams of water, and day and +night kept up an unintermitting cannonade of explosions. The steam +and imprisoned gases would burst the congealing surface with loud +detonations that could be heard for many miles. It was not an infrequent +thing for parties to camp out close to the flow over night. Ordinarily a +lava-flow moves sluggishly and congeals rapidly, so that what seems +like hardihood in the narrating is in reality calm judgment, for it is +perfectly safe to be in the close vicinity of a lava-stream, and even to +walk on its surface as soon as one would be inclined to walk on cooling +iron in a foundry. This notable flow finally ceased within half a mile +of Hilo, where its black form is a perpetual reminder of a marvellous +deliverance from destruction. + + +KILAUEA IN 1840 + + +Kilauea seems never, in historic times, to have filled and overflowed +its vast crater. To do so would need an almost inconceivable volume of +liquid rock material. But it approached this culmination in 1840, when +it became, through its whole extent, a raging sea of fire. The boiling +lava rose in the mighty mountain-cup to a height of from 500 to +600 feet. Then it forced a passage through a subterranean cavity +twenty-seven miles long, and reached the sea forty miles distant, in two +days. The stream where it fell into the sea was half a mile wide, and +the flow kept up for three weeks, heating the ocean twenty miles from +land. An eye-witness of this extraordinary flow thus describes it: + +"When the torrent of fire precipitated itself into the ocean, the +scene assumed a character of terrific and indescribable grandeur. The +magnificence of destruction was never more perceptibly displayed than +when these antagonistic elements met in deadly strife. The mightiest of +earth's magazines of fire poured forth its burning billows to meet the +mightiest of oceans. For two score miles it came rolling, tumbling, +swelling forward, an awful agent of death. Rocks melted like wax in its +path; forests crackled and blazed before its fervent heat; the works of +man were to it but as a scroll in the flames. Imagine Niagara's stream, +above the brink of the Falls, with its dashing, whirling, madly-raging +waters hurrying on to their plunge, instantaneously converted into fire; +a gory-hued river of fused minerals; volumes of hissing steam arising; +some curling upward from ten thousand vents, which give utterance to +as many deep-toned mutterings, and sullen, confined clamorings; gases +detonating and shrieking as they burst from their hot prison-house; +the heavens lurid with flame; the atmosphere dark and oppressive; the +horizon murky with vapors and gleaming with the reflected contest! + +"Such was the scene as the fiery cataract, leaping a precipice of fifty +feet, poured its flood upon the ocean. The old line of coast, a mass +of compact, indurated lava, whitened, cracked and fell. The waters +recoiled, and sent forth a tempest of spray; they foamed and dashed +around and over the melted rock, they boiled with the heat, and the roar +of the conflicting agencies grew fiercer and louder. The reports of the +exploding gases were distinctly heard twenty-five miles distant, and +were likened to a whole broadside of heavy artillery. Streaks of the +intensest light glanced like lightning in all directions; the outskirts +of the burning lava as it fell, cooled by the shock, were shivered into +millions of fragments, and scattered by the strong wind in sparkling +showers far into the country. For three successive weeks the volcano +disgorged an uninterrupted burning tide, with scarcely any diminution, +into the ocean. On either side, for twenty miles, the sea became heated, +with such rapidity that, on the second day of the junction of the lava +with the ocean, fishes came ashore dead in great numbers, at a point +fifteen miles distant. Six weeks later, at the base of the hills, the +water continued scalding hot, and sent forth steam at every wash of the +waves." + + +THE SINKING OF KILAUEA'S FIRE-LAKE + + +In 1866 the great crater of Kilauea presented a new and unlooked-for +spectacle in the sinking and vanishing of its great lava lake. In March +of that year the fires in the ancient cauldron totally disappeared, and +the surrounding lava rock sank to a depth of nearly 600 feet. Mr. Thrum, +in a pamphlet on "The Suspended Activity of Kilauea," says of it: + +"Distant rumbling noises were heard, accompanied by a series of +earthquakes, forty-three in number. With the fourth shock the brilliancy +of New Lake disappeared, and towards 3 A. M. the fires in Halemaumau +disappeared also, leaving the whole crater in darkness. + +"With the dawn the shocks and noises ceased, and revealed the +changes which Kilauea had undergone in the night. All the high cliffs +surrounding Halemaumau and New Lake, which had become a prominent +feature in the crater, had vanished entirely, and the molten lava of +both lakes had disappeared by some subterranean passage from the bottom +of Halemaumau. There was no material change in the sunken portion of the +crater except a continual falling in of rocks and debris from its +banks as the contraction from its former intense heat loosened their +compactness and sent them hurling some 200 or 300 feet below, giving +forth at times a boom as of distant thunder, followed by clouds +of cinders and ashes shooting up into the air 100 to 300 feet, +proportionate, doubtless, to the size of the newly fallen mass. + +"This remarkable recession of the liquid lava in Halemaumau was probably +due to the opening of some deep subterranean passage through which the +lake of lava made its way unseen to the ocean's depths. The Rev. Mr. +Baker, probably the most adventuresome explorer of Hawaiian volcanoes, +actually descended into that crumbling pit to a point within what he +judged to be fifty feet of the bottom. But Halemaumau had only taken +an intermission, for in two short months signs of returning life became +frequent and unmistakable, and, in June, culminated in the sudden +outbreak of a lake that has since then steadily increased in activity." + + +THE GODDESS PELE + + +We cannot close this chapter without some reference to the Goddess Pele, +to whom the Hawaiians long imputed the wonder-work of their volcanic +mountains. When there is unusual commotion in Kilauea myriads of +thread-like filaments float in the air and fall upon the cliffs, making +deposits much resembling matted hair. A single filament over fifteen +inches long was picked up on a Hilo veranda, having sailed in the air +a distance of fifty miles. This is the famous Pele's Hair, being the +glass-like product of volcanic fires. It resembles Prince Rupert's +Drops, and the tradition is that whenever the volcano becomes active +it is because Pele, the Goddess of the crater, emerges from her fiery +furnace and shakes her vitreous locks in anger. + +This fabled being, according to Emerson, in a paper on "The Lesser +Hawaiian Gods," "could at times assume the appearance of a handsome +young woman, as when Kamapauaa, to his cost, was smitten with her charms +when first he saw her with her sisters at Kilauea." Kamapauaa was a +gigantic hog, who "could appear as a handsome young man, a hog, a fish +or a tree." "At other times the innate character of the fury showed +itself, and Pele appeared in her usual form as an ugly and hateful old +hag, with tattered and fire-burnt garments, scarcely concealing the +filth and nakedness of her person. Her bloodshot eyes and fiendish +countenance paralyzed the beholder, and her touch turned him to stone. +She was a jealous and vindictive monster, delighting in cruelty, and at +the slightest provocation overwhelming the unoffending victims of her +rage in widespread ruin." + +The superstition regarding the Goddess Pele was thought to have received +a death blow in 1825, when Kapiolani, an Hawaiian princess and a +Christian convert, ascended, with numerous attendants, to the crater of +Kilauea, where she publicly defied the power and wrath of the goddess. +No response came to her defiance, she descended in safety, and faith in +Pele's power was widely shaken. + +Yet as late as 1887 the old superstition revived and claimed an exalted +victim, for in that year the Princess Like Like, the youngest sister of +the king, starved herself to death to appease the anger of the Goddess +Pele, supposed to be manifested in Mauna Loa's eruption of that year, +and to be quieted only by the sacrifice of a victim of royal blood. Thus +slowly do the old superstitions die away. + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +Popocatapetl and Other Volcanoes of Mexico and Central America. + + +Mexico is very largely a vast table-land, rising through much of its +extent to an elevation of from 7,000 to 8,000 feet above sea-level, and +bounded east and west by wide strips of torrid lowlands adjoining the +oceans. It is crossed at about 19 degrees north latitude by a range of +volcanic mountains, running in almost a straight line east and west, +upon which are several extinct volcanic cones, and five active or +quiescent volcanoes. The highest of these is Popocatapetl, south of the +city of Mexico and nearly midway between the Atlantic and Pacific. + +East of this mountain lies Orizabo, little below it in height, and San +Martin or Tuxtla, 9,700 feet high, on the coast south of Vera Cruz. +West of it is Jorullo, 4,000 feet, and Colima, 12,800, near the Pacific +coast. The volcanic energy continues southward toward the Isthmus, +but decreases north of this volcanic range. These mountains have shown +little signs of activity in recent times. Popocatapetl emits smoke, but +there is no record of an eruption since 1540. Orizabo has been quiet +since 1566. Tuxtla had a violent eruption in 1793, but since then has +remained quiescent. Colima is the only one now active. For ten years +past it has been emitting ashes and smoke. The most remarkable of these +volcanoes is Jorullo, which closely resembled Monte Nuovo, described in +Chapter XIII., in its mode of origin. + +Popocatapetl, the hill that smokes, in the Mexican language, the huge +mountain clothed in eternal snows, and regarded by the idolaters of old +as a god, towers up nearly 18,000 feet above the level of the sea, and +in the days of the conquest of Mexico was a volcano in a state of fierce +activity. It was looked upon by the natives with a strange dread, and +they told the white strangers with awe that no man could attempt to +ascend its slopes and yet live; but, from a feeling of vanity, or the +love of adventure, the Spaniards laughed at these fears, and accordingly +a party of ten of the followers of Cortes commenced the ascent, +accompanied by a few Indians. But these latter, after ascending about +13,000 feet to where the last remains of stunted vegetation existed, +became alarmed at the subterranean bellowings of the volcano, and +returned, while the Spaniards still painfully toiled on through +the rarefied atmosphere, their feet crushing over the scoriae and +black-glazed volcanic sand, until they stood in the region of perpetual +snow, amidst the glittering, treacherous glaciers and crevasses, with +vast slippery-pathed precipices yawning round. + +Still they toiled on in this wild and wondrous region. A few hours +before they were in a land of perpetual summer; here all was snow. They +suffered the usual distress awarded to those who dare to ascend to these +solitudes of nature but it was not given to them to achieve the summit, +for suddenly, at a higher elevation, after listening to various ominous +threatenings from the interior of the volcano, they encountered so +fierce a storm of smoke, cinders, and sparks, that they were driven back +half suffocated to the lower portions of the mountain. + +Some time after another attempt was made; and upon this occasion with +a definite object. The invaders had nearly exhausted their stock of +gunpowder, and Cortes organized a party to ascend to the crater of the +volcano, to seek and bring down sulphur for the manufacture of this +necessary of warfare. This time the party numbered but five, led by +one Francisco Montano; and they experienced no very great difficulty in +winning their way upwards. The region of verdure gave place to the wild, +lava-strewn slope, which was succeeded in its turn by the treacherous +glaciers; and at last the gallant little band stood at the very edge +of the crater, a vast depression of over a league in circumference, and +1,000 feet in depth. + + +SULPHUR FROM THE CRATER + + +Flame was issuing from the hideous abysses, and the stoutest man's heart +must have quailed as he peered down into the dim, mysterious cavity to +where the sloping sides were crusted with bright yellow sulphur, and +listened to the mutterings which warned him of the pent-up wrath and +power of the mighty volcano. They knew that at any moment flame and +stifling sulphurous vapor might be belched forth, but now no cowardice +was shown. They had come provided with ropes and baskets, and it only +remained to see who should descend. Lots were therefore drawn, and +it fell to Montano, who was accordingly lowered by his followers in a +basket 400 feet into the treacherous region of eternal fires. + +The basket swayed and the rope quivered and vibrated, but the brave +cavalier sturdily held to his task, disdaining to show fear before his +humble companions. The lurid light from beneath flashed upon his tanned +features, and a sulphurous steam rose slowly and condensed upon the +sides; but, whatever were his thoughts, the Spaniard collected as +much sulphur as he could take up with him, breaking off the bright +incrustations, and even dallying with his task as if in contempt of +the danger, till he had leisurely filed his basket, when the signal was +given and he was drawn up. The basket was emptied, and then he once more +descended into the lurid crater, collected another store and was again +drawn up; but far from shrinking from his task, he descended again +several times, till a sufficiency had been obtained, with which the +party descended to the plain. + + +THE VOLCANO JORULLO + + +No further back than the middle of the eighteenth century the site of +Jorullo was a level plain, including several highly-cultivated fields, +which formed the farm of Don Pedro di Jorullo. The plain was watered +by two small rivers, called Cuitimba and San Pedro, and was bounded by +mountains composed of basalt--the only indications of former volcanic +action. These fields were well irrigated, and among the most fertile in +the country, producing abundant crops of sugar-cane and indigo. + +In the month of June, 1759, the cultivators of the farm began to +be disturbed by strange subterranean noises of an alarming kind, +accompanied by frequent shocks of earthquake, which continued for nearly +a couple of months; but they afterward entirely ceased, so that the +inhabitants of the place were lulled into security. On the night between +the 28th and 29th of September, however, the subterranean noises +were renewed with greater loudness than before, and the ground shook +severely. The Indian servants living on the place started from their +beds in terror, and fled to the neighboring mountains. Thence gazing +upon their master's farm they beheld it, along with a tract of ground +measuring between three and four square miles, in the midst of which it +stood, rise up bodily, as if it had been inflated from beneath like a +bladder. At the edges this tract was uplifted only about 39 feet above +the original surface, but so great was its convexity that toward the +middle it attained a height of no less than 524 feet. + +The Indians who beheld this strange phenomenon declared that they saw +flames issuing from several parts of this elevated tract, that the +entire surface became agitated like a stormy sea, that great clouds +of ashes, illuminated by volcanic fires glowing beneath them, rose at +several points, and that white-hot stones were thrown to an immense +height. Vast chasms were at the same time opened in the ground, and +into these the two small rivers above mentioned plunged. Their waters, +instead of extinguishing the subterranean conflagration, seemed only +to add to its intensity. Quantities of mud, enveloping balls of basalt, +were then thrown up, and the surface of the elevated ground became +studded with small cones, from which volumes of dense vapor, chiefly +steam, were emitted, some of the jets rising from 20 to 30 feet in +height. + +These cones the Indians called ovens, and in many of them was long heard +a subterranean noise resembling that of water briskly boiling. Out of a +great chasm in the midst of those ovens there were thrown up six larger +elevations, the highest being 1,640 feet above the level of the plain, +4,315 above sea level, and now constituting the principal volcano of +Jorullo. The smallest of the six was 300 feet in height; the others of +intermediate elevation. The highest of these hills had on its summit +a regular volcanic crater, whence there have been thrown up great +quantities of dross and lava, containing fragments of older rocks. The +ashes were transported to immense distances, some of them having fallen +on the houses at Queretaro, more than forty-eight leagues from Jorullo. +The volcano continued in this energetic state of activity for about four +months; in the following years its eruptions became less frequent, but +it still continues to emit volumes of vapor from the principal crater, +as well as from many of the ovens in the upheaved ground. + + +EFFECT ON THE RIVERS + + +The two rivers, which disappeared on the first night of this great +eruption, now pursue an underground course for about a mile and a +quarter, and then reappear as hot springs, with a temperature of 126 +degrees F. + +This wonderful volcanic upheaval is all the more remarkable, from the +inland situation of the plain on which it occurred, it being no less +than 120 miles distant from the nearest ocean, while there is no other +volcano nearer to it than 80 miles. The activity of the ovens has now +ceased, and portions of the upheaved plain on which they are situated +have again been brought under cultivation, and the volcano is in a state +of quiescence. + +The crater of Popocatapetl, which towers to a height of 17,000 feet, is +a vast circular basin, whose nearly vertical walls are in some parts +of a pale rose tint, in others quite black. The bottom contains several +small fuming cones, whence arise vapors of changeable color, being +successively red, yellow and white. All round them are large deposits of +sulphur, which are worked for mercantile purposes. + +Orizaba has a little less lofty snow-clad peak. This mountain was in +brisk volcanic activity from 1545 to 1560, but has since then relapsed +into a prolonged repose. It was climbed, in 1856, by Baron Muller, to +whose mind the crater appeared like the entrance to a lower world of +horrible darkness. He was struck with astonishment on contemplating the +tremendous forces required to elevate and rend such enormous masses--to +melt them, and then pile them up like towers, until by cooling they +became consolidated into their present forms. The internal walls of the +crater are in many places coated with sulphur, and at the bottom are +several small volcanic craters. At the time of his visit the summit +was wholly covered with snow, but the Indians affirmed that hot vapors +occasionally ascend from fissures in the rocks. Since then others have +reached its summit, among them Angelo Heilprin, the first to gaze into +the crater of Mont Pelee after its eruption. + + +ERUPTIONS IN NICARAGUA + + +On the 14th of November, 1867, there commenced an eruption from a +mountain about eight leagues to the eastward of the city of Leon, +in Nicaragua. This mountain does not appear to have been previously +recognized as an active volcano, but it is situated in a very volcanic +country. The outburst had probably some connection with the earthquake +at St. Thomas, which took place on the 18th of November following. The +mountain continued in a state of activity for about sixteen days. There +was thrown out an immense quantity of black sand, which was carried as +far as to the coast of the Pacific, fifty miles distant. Glowing stones +were projected from the crater to an estimated height of three thousand +feet. + +Central America is more prolific of volcanoes than Mexico, and the +State of Guatemala in particular. One authority credits this State with +fifteen or sixteen and another with more than thirty volcanic cones. +Of these at least five are decidedly active. Tajumalco, which was in +eruption at the time of the great earthquake of 1863, yields great +quantities of sulphur, as also does Quesaltenango. The most famous is +the Volcan de Agua (Water Volcano), so called from its overwhelming the +old city of Guatemala with a torrent of water in 1541. + +Nicaragua is also rich in volcanoes, being traversed its entire length +by a remarkable chain of isolated volcanic cones, several of which are +to some extent active. We have already told the story of the tremendous +eruption of Coseguina in 1835, one of the most violent of modern times. +The latest important eruption here was that of Ometepec, a volcanic +mount on an island of the same name in Lake Nicaragua. This broke a long +period of repose on June 19, 1883, with a severe eruption, in which +the lava, pouring from a new crater, in seven days overflowed the whole +island and drove off its population. Incessant rumblings and earthquake +shocks accompanied the eruption, and mud, ashes, stones and lava covered +the mountain slopes, which had been cultivated for many centuries. +These were the most recent strong displays of volcanic energy in Central +America, though former great outflows of lava are indicated by great +fields of barren rock, which extend for miles. + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +The Terrible Eruption of Krakatoa. + + +The most destructive volcanic explosion of recent times, one perhaps +unequalled in violence in all times, was that of the small mountain +island of Krakatoa, in the East Indian Archipelago, in 1883. This made +its effects felt round the entire globe, and excited such wide attention +that we feel called upon to give it a chapter of its own. + +The island of Krakatoa lies in the Straits of Sunda, between Java and +Sumatra. In size it is insignificant, and had been silent so long that +its volcanic character was almost lost sight of. Of its early history we +know nothing. At some remote time in the past it may have appeared as a +large cone, of some twenty-five miles in circumference at base and not +less than 10,000 feet high. Then, still in unknown times, its cone was +blown away by internal forces, leaving only a shattered and irregular +crater ring. This crater was two or three miles in diameter, while the +highest part of its walls rose only a few hundred feet above the sea. +Later volcanic work built up a number of small cones within the crater, +and still later a new cone, called Rakata, rose on the edge of the old +one to a height of 2,623 feet. + +The first known event in the history of the island volcano was an +eruption in the year 1680. After that it lay in repose, forming a group +of islands, one much larger than the others. Some of the smaller islands +indicated the rim of the old crater, much of which was buried under the +sea. Its state of quiescence continued for two centuries, a tropical +vegetation richly mantled the island, and to all appearance it had sunk +permanently to rest. + +Indications of a coming change appeared in 1880, in the form of +earthquakes, which shook all the region around. These continued at +intervals for more that two years. Then, on May 20, 1883, there were +heard at Batavia, a hundred miles away, "booming sounds like the firing +of artillery." Next day the captain of a vessel passing through the +Straits saw that Krakatoa was in eruption, sending up clouds of smoke +and showers of dust and pumice. The smoke was estimated to reach a +height of seven miles, while the volcanic dust drifted to localities 300 +miles away. + + +AWFUL PREMONITIONS + + +The mountain continued to play for about fourteen weeks with varying +activity, several parties meanwhile visiting it and making observations. +Such an eruption, in ordinary cases, would have ultimately died away, +with no marked change other than perhaps the ejection of a stream of +lava. But such was not now the case. The sequel was at once unexpected +and terrible. As the island was uninhabited, no one actually saw what +took place, those nearest to the scene of the eruption having enough +to do to save their own lives, while the dense clouds of vapor and dust +baffled observation. + +The phase of greatest violence set in on Sunday, August 26th. Soon after +midday sailors on passing ships saw that the island had vanished behind +a dense cloud of black vapor, the height of which was estimated at not +less than seventeen miles. At intervals frightful detonations resounded, +and after a time a rain of pumice began to fall at places ten miles +distant. For miles round fierce flashes of lightning rent the vapor, +and at a distance of fully forty miles ghostly corposants gleamed on the +rigging of a vessel. + +These phenomena grew more and more alarming until August 27th, when four +explosions of fearful intensity shook earth and sea and air, the third +being "far the most violent and productive of the most widespread +results." It was, in fact, perhaps the most tremendous volcanic +outburst, in its intensity, known in human history. It seemed to +overcome the obstruction to the energy of the internal forces, for the +eruption now declined, and in a day or two practically died away, though +one or two comparatively insignificant outbursts took place later. + + +FAR-REACHING DESTRUCTION + + +The eruption spread ruin and death over many surrounding leagues. At +Krakotoa itself, when men once more reached its shores, everything was +found to be changed. About two-thirds of the main island were blown +completely away. The marginal cone was cut nearly in half vertically, +the new cliff falling precipitously toward the centre of the crater. +Where land had been before now sea existed, in some places more than +one hundred feet deep. But the part of the island that remained had been +somewhat increased in size by ejected materials. + +Of the other islands and islets some had disappeared; some were +partially destroyed; some were enlarged by fallen debris, while many +changes had taken place in the depth of the neighboring sea-bed. Two +new islands, Steers and Calmeyer, were formed. The ejected pumice, so +cavernous in structure as to float upon the water, at places formed +great floating islands which covered the sea for miles, and sometimes +rose from four to seven feet above it, proving a serious obstacle +to navigation. On vessels near by dust fell to the depth of eighteen +inches. The enormous clouds of volcanic dust which had been flung high +into the air darkened the sky for a great area around. At Batavia, about +a hundred miles from the volcano, it produced an effect not unlike that +of a London fog. This began about seven in the morning of August 27th. +Soon after ten the light had become lurid and yellow, and lamps were +required in the houses; then came a downfall of rain, mingled with dust, +and by about half-past eleven the town was in complete darkness. It +soon after began to lighten, and the rain to diminish, and about three +o'clock it had ceased. + +At Buitenzorg, twenty miles further away, the conditions were similar, +but lasted for a shorter time. In places much farther away the upper sky +presented a strangely murky aspect, and the sun assumed a green color. +Phenomena of this kind were traced over a broad area of the globe, even +as far as the Hawaiian Islands, while over a yet wider area the sky +after sunset was lit up by after-glows of extraordinary beauty. The +height to which the dust was projected has been calculated from various +data, with the result that 121,500 feet, or nearly 25 miles, is thought +to be a probable maximum estimate, though it may be that occasional +fragments of larger size were shot up to a still greater height. + + +A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF THE ERUPTION + + +Another effect, of a distressing character, followed the eruption. A +succession of enormous waves, emanating from Krakatoa, traversed the +sea, and swept the coast bordering the Straits of Sunda with such force +as to destroy many villages on the low-lying shores in Java, Sumatra and +other islands. Some buildings at a height of fifty feet above sea-level +were washed away, and in some places the water rose higher, in one place +reaching the height of 115 feet. At Telok Betong, in Sumatra, a ship was +carried inland a distance of nearly two miles, and left stranded at a +height of thirty feet above the sea. + +The eruption of Krakatoa seems to have been due to some deep-lying +causes of extraordinary violence, this appearing not only in the +terrible explosion which tore the island to fragments and sent its +remnants as floating dust many miles high into the air, but also from an +internal convulsion that affected many of the volcanoes of Java, which +almost simultaneously broke into violent eruption. We extract from +Dr. Robert Bonney's "Our Earth and its Story" a description of these +closely-related events. + +"The disturbances originated on the island of Krakatoa, with eruptions +of red hot stones and ashes, and by noon next day Semeru, the largest of +the Javanese volcanoes, was reported to be belching forth flames at +an alarming rate. The eruption soon spread to Gunung Guntur and other +mountains, until more than a third of the forty-five craters of Java +were either in activity or seriously threatening it. + +"Just before dusk a great cloud hung over Gunung Guntur, and the crater +of the volcano began to emit enormous streams of white sulphurous +mud and lava, which were rapidly succeeded by explosions, followed by +tremendous showers of cinders and enormous fragments of rock, which were +hurled high into the air and scattered in all directions, carrying death +and destruction with them. The overhanging clouds were, moreover, so +charged with electricity that water-spouts added to the horror of the +scene. The eruption continued all Saturday night, and next day a dense +cloud, shot with lurid red, gathered over the Kedang range, intimating +that an eruption had broken out there. + +"This proved to be the case, for soon after streams of lava poured down +the mountain sides into the valleys, sweeping everything before them. +About two o'clock on Monday morning--we are drawing on the account of +an eye-witness--the great cloud suddenly broke into small sections and +vanished. When light came it was seen that an enormous tract of land, +extending from Point Capucin on the south, and Negery Passoerang on the +north and west, to the lowest point, covering about fifty square miles, +had been temporarily submerged by the 'tidal wave.' Here were situated +the villages of Negery and Negery Babawang. Few of the inhabitants of +these places escaped death. This section of the island was less +densely populated than the other portions, and the loss of life was +comparatively small, although it must have aggregated several thousands. +The waters of Welcome Bay in the Sunda Straits, Pepper Bay on the east, +and the Indian Ocean on the south, had rushed in and formed a sea of +turbulent waves. + + +DETONATIONS HEARD FOR MANY MILES AWAY + + +"On Monday night the volcano of Papandayang was in an active state of +paroxysmal eruption, accompanied by detonations which are said to have +been heard for many miles away. In Sumatra three distinct columns of +flame were seen to rise from a mountain to a vast height, and its whole +surface was soon covered with fiery lava streams, which spread to +great distances on all sides. Stones fell for miles around, and black +fragmentary matter carried into the air caused total darkness. A +whirlwind accompanied the eruption, by which house-roofs, trees, men, +and horses were swept into the air. The quantity of matter ejected was +such as to cover the ground and the roofs of the houses at Denamo to +the depth of several inches. Suddenly the scene changed. At first it was +reported that Papandayang had been split into seven distinct peaks. This +proved untrue; but in the open seams formed could be seen great balls of +molten matter. From the fissures poured forth clouds of steam and black +lava, which, flowing in steady streams, ran slowly down the mountain +sides, forming beds 200 or 300 feet in extent. At the entrance to +Batavia was a large group of houses extending along the shore, and +occupied by Chinamen. This portion of the city was entirely destroyed, +and not many of the Chinese who lived on the swampy plains managed to +save their lives. They stuck to their homes till the waves came and +washed them away, fearing torrents of flame and lava more than torrents +of water. + +"Of the 3,500 Europeans and Americans in Batavia--which for several +hours was in darkness, owing to the fall of ashes--800 perished at +Anjer. The European and American quarter was first overwhelmed by rocks, +mud and lava from the crater, and then the waters came up and swallowed +the ruins, leaving nothing to mark the site, and causing the loss of +about 200 lives of the inhabitants and those who sought refuge there." + +The loss of life above mentioned was but a small fraction of the total +loss. All along the coasts of the adjoining large islands towns and +villages were swept away and their inhabitants drowned, till the total +loss was, as nearly as could be estimated, 36,000 souls. Krakatoa thus +surpassed Mont Pelee in its tale of destruction. These two, indeed, have +been the most destructive to life of known volcanic explosions, since +the volcano usually falls far short of the earthquake in its murderous +results. + +The distant effects of this explosion were as remarkable as the near +ones. The concussion of the air reached to an unprecedented distance +and the clouds of floating dust encircled the earth, producing striking +phenomena of which an account is given at the end of this chapter. + +The rapidity with which the effects of the Krakatoa eruption made +themselves evident in all parts of the earth is perhaps the most +remarkable outcome of this extraordinary event. The floating pumice +reached the harbor of St. Paul on the 22nd of March, 1884, after having +made a voyage of some two hundred and sixty days at a rate of +six-tenths of a mile an hour. Immense quantities of pumice of a similar +description, and believed to have been derived from the same source, +reached Tamatave in Madagascar five months later, and no doubt much of +it long continued to float round the world. + + +SERIES OF ATMOSPHERIC WAVES + + +Another result of the eruption was the series of atmospheric waves, +caused by the disturbance in the atmosphere, which affected the +barometer over the entire world. The velocity with which these waves +traveled has been variously estimated at from 912.09 feet to 1066.29 +feet per second. This speed is, of course, very much inferior to that at +which sound travels through the air. Yet, in three distinct cases, the +noise of the Krakatoa explosions was plainly heard at a distance of at +least 2,200 miles, and in one instance--that recorded from Rodriguez--of +nearly 3,000. The sound travelled to Ceylon, Burmah, Manila, New Guinea +and Western Australia, places, however, within a radius of about 2,000 +miles; out Diego Garcia lies outside that area, and Rodriguez a thousand +miles beyond it. Six days subsequent to the explosion, after the +atmospheric waves had traveled four times round the globe, the barometer +was still affected by them. + +Another result, similar in kind, was the extraordinary dissemination of +the great ocean wave, which in a like manner seems to have encircled the +earth, since high waves, without evident cause, appeared not only in +the Pacific, but at many places on the Atlantic coast within a few days +after the event. They were observed alike in England and at New York. +The writer happened to be at Atlantic City, on the New Jersey coast, +at this time. It was a period of calm, the winds being at rest, but, +unheralded, there came in an ocean wave of such height as to sweep away +the ocean-front boardwalk and do much other damage. He ascribed this +strange wave at the time to the Krakatoa explosion, and is of the same +opinion still. + +In addition to the account given of this extraordinary volcanic event, +it seems desirable to give Sir Robert S. Ball's description of it in his +recent work, "The Earth's Beginnings." While repeating to some +extent what we have already said, it is worthy, from its freshness of +description and general readability, of a place here. + + +SIR ROBERT S. BALL'S DESCRIPTION + + +"Until the year 1883 few had ever heard of Krakatoa. It was unknown +to fame, as are hundreds of other gems of glorious vegetation set +in tropical waters. It was not inhabited, but the natives from the +surrounding shores of Sumatra and Java used occasionally to draw their +canoes up on its beach, while they roamed through the jungle in search +of the wild fruits that there abounded. It was known to the mariner who +navigated the Straits of Sunda, for it was marked on his charts as one +of the perils of the intricate navigation in those waters. It was no +doubt recorded that the locality had been once, or more than once, +the seat of an active volcano. In fact, the island seemed to owe its +existence to some frightful eruption of by-gone days; but for a couple +of centuries there had been no fresh outbreak. It almost seemed as if +Krakatoa might be regarded as a volcano that had become extinct. In this +respect it would only be like many other similar objects all over the +globe, or like the countless extinct volcanoes all over the moon. + +"As the summer of 1883 advanced the vigor of Krakatoa, which had sprung +into notoriety at the beginning of the year, steadily increased and the +noises became more and more vehement; these were presently audible on +shores ten miles distant, and then twenty miles distant; and still those +noises waxed louder and louder, until the great thunders of the volcano, +now so rapidly developing, astonished the inhabitants that dwelt over an +area at least as large as Great Britain. And there were other symptoms +of the approaching catastrophe. With each successive convulsion a +quantity of fine dust was projected aloft into the clouds. The wind +could not carry this dust away as rapidly as it was hurled upward by +Krakatoa, and accordingly the atmosphere became heavily charged with +suspended particles. + +"A pall of darkness thus hung over the adjoining seas and islands. Such +was the thickness and density of these atmospheric volumes of Krakatoa +dust that, for a hundred miles around, the darkness of midnight +prevailed at midday. Then the awful tragedy of Krakatoa took place. +Many thousands of the unfortunate inhabitants of the adjacent shores of +Sumatra and Java were destined never to behold the sun again. They were +presently swept away to destruction in an invasion of the shore by the +tremendous waves with which the seas surrounding Krakatoa were agitated. + +"As the days of August passed by the spasms of Krakatoa waxed more and +more vehement. By the middle of that month the panic was widespread, for +the supreme catastrophe was at hand. On the night of Sunday, August 26, +1883, the blackness of the dust-clouds, now much thicker than ever in +the Straits of Sunda and adjacent parts of Sumatra and Java, was only +occasionally illumined by lurid flashes from the volcano. + +"At the town of Batavia, a hundred miles distant, there was no quiet +that night. The houses trembled with subterranean violence, and the +windows rattled as if heavy artillery were being discharged in the +streets. And still these efforts seemed to be only rehearsing for the +supreme display. By ten o'clock on the morning of Monday, August 27, +1883, the rehearsals were over, and the performance began. An overture, +consisting of two or three introductory explosions, was succeeded by +a frightful convulsion which tore away a large part of the island of +Krakatoa and scattered it to the winds of heaven. In that final outburst +all records of previous explosions on this earth were completely broken. + + +AN EXTRAORDINARY NOISE + + +"This supreme effort it was which produced the mightiest noise that, so +far as we can ascertain, has ever been heard on this globe. It must have +been indeed a loud noise which could travel from Krakatoa to Batavia and +preserve its vehemence over so great a distance; but we should form a +very inadequate conception of the energy of the eruption of Krakatoa if +we thought that its sounds were heard by those merely a hundred miles +off. This would be little indeed compared with what is recorded on +testimony which it is impossible to doubt. + +"Westward from Krakatoa stretches the wide expanse of the Indian Ocean. +On the opposite side from the Straits of Sunda lies the island of +Rodriguez, the distance from Krakatoa being almost three thousand miles. +It has been proved by evidence which cannot be doubted that the +thunders of the great volcano attracted the attention of an intelligent +coast-guard on Rodriguez, who carefully noted the character of the +sounds and the time of their occurrence. He had heard them just four +hours after the actual explosion, for this is the time the sound +occupied on its journey. + + +A CONSTANT WIND + + +"This mighty incident at Krakatoa has taught us other lessons on the +constitution of our atmosphere. We previously knew little, or I might +say almost nothing, as to the conditions prevailing above the height +of ten miles overhead. It was Krakatoa which first gave us a little +information which was greatly wanted. How could we learn what winds were +blowing at a height four times as great as the loftiest mountain on the +earth, and twice as great as the loftiest altitude to which a balloon +has ever soared? No doubt a straw will show which way the wind blows, +but there are no straws up there. There was nothing to render the winds +perceptible until Krakatoa came to our aid. Krakatoa drove into those +winds prodigious quantities of dust. Hundreds of cubic miles of air were +thus deprived of that invisibility which they had hitherto maintained. + +"With eyes full of astonishment men watched those vast volumes of +Krakatoa dust on a tremendous journey. Of course, every one knows the +so-called trade-winds on our earth's surface, which blow steadily in +fixed directions, and which are of such service to the mariner. But +there is yet another constant wind. It was first disclosed by Krakatoa. +Before the occurrence of that eruption, no one had the slightest +suspicion that far up aloft, twenty miles over our heads, a mighty +tempest is incessantly hurrying, with a speed much greater than that of +the awful hurricane which once laid so large a part of Calcutta on the +ground and slew so many of its inhabitants. Fortunately for humanity, +this new trade-wind does not come within less than twenty miles of the +earth's surface. We are thus preserved from the fearful destruction that +its unintermittent blasts would produce, blasts against which no tree +could stand and which would, in ten minutes, do as much damage to a city +as would the most violent earthquake. When this great wind had become +charged with the dust of Krakatoa, then, for the first, and, I may add, +for the only time, it stood revealed to human vision. Then it was seen +that this wind circled round the earth in the vicinity of the equator, +and completed its circuit in about thirteen days. + + +A VAST CLOUD Of DUST + + +"The dust manufactured by the supreme convulsion was whirled round +the earth in the mighty atmospheric current into which the volcano +discharged it. As the dust-cloud was swept along by this incomparable +hurricane it showed its presence in the most glorious manner by decking +the sun and the moon in hues of unaccustomed splendor and beauty. The +blue color in the sky under ordinary circumstances is due to particles +in the air, and when the ordinary motes of the sunbeam were reinforced +by the introduction of the myriads of motes produced by Krakatoa even +the sun itself sometimes showed a blue tint. Thus the progress of the +great dust-cloud was traced out by the extraordinary sky effects it +produced, and from the progress of the dust-cloud we inferred the +movements of the invisible air current which carried it along. Nor need +it be thought that the quantity of material projected from Krakatoa +should have been inadequate to produce effects of this world-wide +description. Imagine that the material which was blown to the winds of +heaven by the supreme convulsion of Krakatoa could be all recovered and +swept into one vast heap. Imagine that the heap were to have its bulk +measured by a vessel consisting of a cube one mile long, one mile broad +and one mile deep; it has been estimated that even this prodigious +vessel would have to be filled to the brim at least ten times before all +the products of Krakatoa had been measured." + +It is not specially to the quantity of material ejected from Krakatoa +that it owes its reputation. Great as it was, it has been much +surpassed. Professor Judd says that the great eruptions of +Papapandayang, in Java, in 1772, of Skaptur Jokull, in Iceland, in 1783, +and of Tamboro, in Sumbawa, in 1815, were marked by the extrusion of +much larger quantities of material. The special feature of the Krakatoa +eruption was its extreme violence, which flung volcanic dust to a height +probably never before attained, and produced sea and air waves of an +intensity unparalleled in the records of volcanic action. Judd thinks +this was due to the situation of the crater, and the possible inflow +through fissures of a great volume of sea water to the interior lava, +the result being the sudden production of an enormous volume of steam. + + +EXTRAORDINARY RED SUNSETS + + +The red sunsets spoken of above were so extraordinary in character +that a fuller description of them seems advisable. A remarkable fact +concerning them is the great rapidity with which they were disseminated +to distant regions of the earth. They appeared around the entire +equatorial zone in a few days after the eruption, this doubtless being +due to the great rapidity with which the volcanic dust was carried by +the upper air current. They were seen at Rodriguez, 3,000 miles away, on +August 28, and within a week in every part of the torrid zone. From +this zone they spread north and south with less rapidity. Their first +appearance in Australia was on September 15th, and at the Cape of Good +Hope on the 20th. On the latter day they were observed in California and +the Southern United States. They were first seen in England on November +9th. Elsewhere in Europe and the United States they appeared from +November 20th to 30th. + +The effect lasted in some instances as long as an hour and +three-quarters after sunset. In India the sun and skies assumed a +greenish hue, and there was much curiosity regarding the cause of the +"green sun." Another remarkable phenomenon of this period was the great +prevalence of rain during the succeeding winter. This probably was due +to the same cause; that is, to the fact of the air being so filled with +dust; the prevailing theory in regard to rain being that the existence +of dust in the air is necessary to its fall. The vapor of the air +concentrates into drops around such minute particles, the result being +that where dust is absent rain cannot fall. + +As regards the sunsets spoken of, there are three similar instances on +record. The first of these was in the year 526, when a dry fog covered +the Roman Empire with a red haze. Nothing further is known concerning +it. The other instances were in the years 1783 and 1831. The former of +these has been traced to the great eruption of Skaptur Jokull in that +year. It lasted for several months as a pale blue haze, and occasioned +so much obscurity that the sun was only visible when twelve degrees +above the horizon, and then it had a blood-red appearance. Violent +thunderstorms were associated with it, thus assimilating it with that of +1883. Alike in 1783 and 1831 there was a pearly, phosphorescent gleam in +the atmosphere, by which small print could be read at midnight. We know +nothing regarding the meteorological conditions of 1831. + +The red sunsets of 1883 were remarkable for their long persistence. +They were observed in the autumn of 1884 with almost their original +brilliancy, and they were still visible in 1885, being seen at +intervals, as if the dust was then distributed in patches, and driven +about by the winds. In fact, similar sunsets were occasionally visible +for several years afterwards. These may well have been due to the same +cause, when we consider with what extreme slowness very fine dust makes +its way through the air, and how much it may be affected by the winds. + + +THE RED SUNSETS DESCRIBED + + +One writer describes the appearance of these sunsets in the following +terms: "Immediately after sunset a patch of white light appeared ten +or fifteen degrees above the horizon, and shone for ten minutes with a +pearly lustre. Beneath it a layer of bright red rested on the horizon, +melting upward into orange, and this passed into yellow light, which +spread around the lucid spot. Next the white light grew of a rosy tint, +and soon became an intense rose hue. A vivid golden oriole yellow strip +divided it from the red fringe below and the rose red above." This +description, although exaggerated, represents the general conditions of +the phenomenon. + +On October 20th, 1884, the author observed the sunset effect as follows: +"Immediately after the sun had set, a broad cone of silvery lustre +rested upon a horizon of smoky pink. After fifteen minutes the white +became rose color above and yellowish below, deepening to lemon color, +and finally into reddish tint, while the rose faded out. The whole cone +gradually sank and died away in the brownish red flush on the horizon, +more than an hour after sunset." The time of duration varied, since, +on the succeeding evening, it lasted only a half-hour. These sunset +effects, if we can justly attribute them all to the Krakatoa eruption, +were extraordinary not alone for their intensity and beauty but for +their extended duration, the influence of this remarkable volcanic +outbreak being visible for several years after the event. + +Though no doubt is entertained concerning the cause of the red sunset +effects of 1783 and 1883, that of 1831 is not so readily explained, +there having been no known volcanic explosion of great intensity in that +year. But in view of the fact that volcanoes exist in unvisited parts +of the earth, some of which may have been at work unknown to scientific +man, this difficulty is not insuperable. Possibly Mounts Erebus or +Terror, the burning mountains of the Antarctic zone, may, unseen by +man, have prepared for civilized lands this grand spectacular effect of +Nature's doings. + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +Mount Pelee and its Harvest of Death. + + +St. Pierre, the principal city of the French island of Martinique, in +the West Indies, lies for the length of about a mile along the island +coast, with high cliffs hemming it in, its houses climbing the slope, +tier upon tier. At one place where a river breaks through the cliffs, +the city creeps further up towards the mountains. As seen from the bay, +its appearance is picturesque and charming, with the soft tints of its +tiles, the grey of its walls, the clumps of verdure in its midst, +and the wall of green in the rear. Seen from its streets this beauty +disappears, and the chief attraction of the town is gone. + +Back from the three miles of hills which sweep in an arc round the town, +is the noble Montagne Pelee lying several miles to the north of the +city, a mass of dark rock some four thousand feet high, with jagged +outline, and cleft with gorges and ravines, down which flow numerous +streams, gushing from the crater lake of the great volcano. + +Though known to be a volcano, it was looked upon as practically extinct, +though as late as August, 1856, it had been in eruption. No lava at that +time came from its crater, but it hurled out great quantities of ashes +and mud, with strong sulphurous odor. Then it went to rest again, and +slept till 1902. + +The people had long ceased to fear it. No one expected that grand old +Mount Pelee, the slumbering (so it was thought) tranquil old hill, would +ever spurt forth fire and death. This was entirely unlooked for. Mont +Pelee was regarded by the natives as a sort of protector; they had an +almost superstitious affection for it. From the outskirts of the city it +rose gradually, its sides grown thick with rich grass, and dotted here +and there with spreading shrubbery and drooping trees. There was +no pleasanter outing for an afternoon than a journey up the green, +velvet-like sides of the towering mountain and a view of the quaint, +picturesque city slumbering at its base. + + +A PEACEFUL SCENE + + +There were no rocky cliffs, no crags, no protruding boulders. The +mountain was peace itself. It seemed to promise perpetual protection. +The poetic natives relied upon it to keep back storms from the land and +frighten, with its stern brow, the tempests from the sea. They pointed +to it with profoundest pride as one of the most beautiful mountains in +the world. + +Children played in its bowers and arbors; families picnicked there day +after day during the balmy weather; hundreds of tourists ascended to +the summit and looked with pleasure at the beautiful crystal lake +which sparkled and glinted in the sunshine. Mont Pelee was the place +of enjoyment of the people of St. Pierre. I can hear the placid natives +say: "Old Father Pelee is our protector--not our destroyer." + +Not until two weeks before the eruption did the slumbering mountain +show signs of waking to death and disaster. On the 23d of April it first +displayed symptoms of internal disquiet. A great column of smoke began +to rise from it, and was accompanied from time to time by showers of +ashes and cinders. + +Despite these signals, there was nothing until Monday, May 5th, to +indicate actual danger. On that day a stream of smoking mud and lava +burst through the top of the crater and plunged into the valley of +the River Blanche, overwhelming the Guerin sugar works and killing +twenty-three workmen and the son of the proprietor. Mr. Guerin's was +one of the largest sugar works on the island; its destruction entailed +a heavy loss. The mud which overwhelmed it followed the beds of streams +towards the north of the island. + +The alarm in the city was great, but it was somewhat allayed by the +report of an expert commission appointed by the Governor, which decided +that the eruption was normal and that the city was in no peril. To +further allay the excitement, the Governor, with several scientists, +took up his residence in St. Pierre. He could not restrain the people +by force, but the moral effect of his presence and the decision of the +scientists had a similar disastrous result. + + +A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION BY A SUFFERER. + + +The existing state of affairs during these few waiting days is so +graphically given in a letter from Mrs. Thomas T. Prentis, wife of the +United States Consul at St. Pierre, to her sister in Melrose, a suburban +city of Boston, that we quote it here: + +"My Dear Sister: This morning the whole population of the city is on the +alert and every eye is directed toward Mont Pelee, an extinct volcano. +Everybody is afraid that the volcano has taken into its heart to burst +forth and destroy the whole island. + +"Fifty years ago Mont Pelee burst forth with terrific force and +destroyed everything within a radius of several miles. For several days +the mountain has been bursting forth in flame and immense quantities of +lava are flowing down its sides. + +"All the inhabitants are going up to see it. There is not a horse to +be had on the island, those belonging to the natives being kept in +readiness to leave at a moment's notice. + +"Last Wednesday, which was April 23d, I was in my room with little +Christine, and we heard three distinct shocks. They were so great that +we supposed at first that there was some one at the door, and Christine +went and found no one there. The first report was very loud, and the +second and third were so great that dishes were thrown from the shelves +and the house was rocked. + +"We can see Mont Pelee from the rear windows of our house, and although +it is fully four miles away, we can hear the roar of the fire and lava +issuing from it. + +"The city is covered with ashes and clouds of smoke have been over our +heads for the last five days. The smell of sulphur is so strong that +horses on the streets stop and snort, and some of them are obliged to +give up, drop in their harness and die from suffocation. Many of the +people are obliged to wear wet handkerchiefs over their faces to protect +them from the fumes of sulphur. + +"My husband assures me that there is no immediate danger, and when there +is the least particle of danger we will leave the place. There is an +American schooner, the R. F. Morse, in the harbor, and she will remain +here for at least two weeks. If the volcano becomes very bad we shall +embark at once and go out to sea. The papers in this city are asking +if we are going to experience another earthquake similar to that which +struck here some fifty years ago." + + +THE FATEFUL EIGHTH OF MAY + + +The writer of this letter and her husband, Consul Prentis, trusted Mont +Pelee too long. They perished, with all the inhabitants of the city, in +a deadly flood of fire and ashes that descended on the devoted place +on the fateful morning of Thursday, May 8th. Only for the few who were +rescued from the ships in the harbor there would be scarcely a living +soul to tell that dread story of ruin and death. The most graphic +accounts are those given by rescued officers of the Roraima, one of the +fleet of the Quebec Steamship Co., trading with the West Indies. This +vessel had left the Island of Dominica for Martinique at midnight of +Wednesday, and reached St. Pierre about 7 o'clock Thursday morning. The +greatest difficulty was experienced in getting into port, the air being +thick with falling ashes and the darkness intense. The ship had to +grope its way to the anchorage. Appalling sounds were issuing from the +mountain behind the town, which was shrouded in darkness. The ashes were +falling thickly on the steamer's deck, where the passengers and others +were gazing at the town, some being engaged in photographing the scene. + +The best way in which we can describe a scene of which few lived to tell +the story, is to give the narratives of a number of the survivors. +From their several stories a coherent idea of the terrible scene can +be formed. From the various accounts given of the terrible explosion +by officers of the Roraima, we select as a first example the following +description by Assistant Purser Thompson: + + +A TALE OF SUDDEN RUIN + + +"I saw St. Pierre destroyed. It was blotted out by one great flash of +fire. Nearly 40,000 persons were all killed at once. Out of eighteen +vessels lying in the roads only one, the British steamship Roddam, +escaped, and she, I hear, lost more than half on board. It was a dying +crew that took her out. + +"Our boat, the Roraima, of the Quebec Line, arrived at St. Pierre early +Thursday morning. For hours before we entered the roadstead we could see +flames and smoke rising from Mont Pelee. No one on board had any idea +of danger. Captain G. T. Muggah was on the bridge, and all hands got on +deck to see the show. + +"The spectacle was magnificent. As we approached St. Pierre we could +distinguish the rolling and leaping of the red flames that belched from +the mountain in huge volumes and gushed high in to the sky. Enormous +clouds of black smoke hung over the volcano. + +"When we anchored at St. Pierre I noticed the cable steamship Grappler, +the Roddam, three or four American schooners and a number of Italian and +Norwegian barks. The flames were then spurting straight up in the air, +now and then waving to one side or the other for a moment and again +leaping suddenly higher up. + +"There was a constant muffled roar. It was like the biggest oil refinery +in the world burning up on the mountain top. There was a tremendous +explosion about 7.45 o'clock, soon after we got in. The mountain was +blown to pieces. There was no warning. The side of the volcano was +ripped out, and there was hurled straight toward us a solid wall of +flame. It sounded like thousands of cannon. + +"The wave of fire was on us and over us like a lightning flash. It was +like a hurricane of fire. I saw it strike the cable steamship Grappler +broadside on and capsize her. From end to end she burst into flames and +then sank. The fire rolled in mass straight down upon St. Pierre and the +shipping. The town vanished before our eyes and the air grew stifling +hot, and we were in the thick of it. + +"Wherever the mass of fire struck the sea the water boiled and sent +up vast clouds of steam. The sea was torn into huge whirlpools that +careened toward the open sea. + +"One of these horrible hot whirlpools swung under the Roraima and pulled +her down on her beam ends with the suction. She careened way over to +port, and then the fire hurricane from the volcano smashed her, and over +she went on the opposite side. The fire wave swept off the masts and +smokestack as if they were cut with a knife. + + +HEAT CAUSED EXPLOSIONS + + +"Captain Muggah was the only one on deck not killed outright. He was +caught by the fire wave and terribly burned. He yelled to get up the +anchor, but, before two fathoms were heaved in the Roraima was almost +upset by the boiling whirlpool, and the fire wave had thrown her down on +her beam ends to starboard. Captain Muggah was overcome by the flames. +He fell unconscious from the bridge and toppled overboard. + +"The blast of fire from the volcano lasted only a few minutes. It +shriveled and set fire to everything it touched. Thousands of casks of +rum were stored in St. Pierre, and these were exploded by the terrific +heat. The burning rum ran in streams down every street and out to the +sea. This blazing rum set fire to the Roraima several times. Before the +volcano burst the landings of St. Pierre were crowded with people. After +the explosion not one living being was seen on land. Only twenty-five of +those on the Roraima out of sixty-eight were left after the first flash. + +"The French cruiser Suchet came in and took us off at 2 P. M. She +remained nearby, helping all she could, until 5 o'clock, then went to +Fort de France with all the people she had rescued. At that time it +looked as if the entire north end of the island was on fire." + +C. C. Evans, of Montreal, and John G. Morris, of New York, who were +among those rescued, say the vessel arrived at 6 o'clock. As eight bells +were struck a frightful explosion was heard up the mountain. A cloud of +fire, toppling and roaring, swept with lightning speed down the mountain +side and over the town and bay. The Roraima was nearly sunk, and caught +fire at once. + +"I can never forget the horrid, fiery, choking whirlwind which enveloped +me," said Mr. Evans. "Mr. Morris and I rushed below. We are not very +badly burned, not so bad as most of them. When the fire came we were +going to our posts (we are engineers) to weigh anchor and get out. When +we came up we found the ship afire aft, and fought it forward until 3 +o'clock, when the Suchet came to our rescue. We were then building a +raft." + +"Ben" Benson, the carpenter of the Roraima, said: "I was on deck, +amidships, when I heard an explosion. The captain ordered me to up +anchor. I got to the windlass, but when the fire came I went into the +forecastle and got my 'duds.' When I came out I talked with Captain +Muggah, Mr. Scott, the first officer and others. They had been on the +bridge. The captain was horribly burned. He had inhaled flames and +wanted to jump into the sea. I tried to make him take a life-preserver. +The captain, who was undressed, jumped overboard and hung on to a line +for a while. Then he disappeared." + + +THE COOPER'S STORY. + + +James Taylor, a cooper employed on the Roraima, gives the following +account of his experience of the disaster: + +"Hearing a tremendous report and seeing the ashes falling thicker, I +dived into a room, dragging with me Samuel Thomas, a gangway man and +fellow countryman, shutting the door tightly. Shortly after I heard a +voice, which I recognized as that of the chief mate, Mr. Scott. Opening +the door with great caution, I drew him in. The nose of Thomas was +burned by the intense heat. + +"We three and Thompson, the assistant purser, out of sixty-eight souls +on board, were the only persons who escaped practically uninjured. The +heat being unbearable, I emerged in a few moments, and the scene that +presented itself to my eyes baffles description. All around on the deck +were the dead and dying covered with boiling mud. There they lay, men, +women and little children, and the appeals of the latter for water were +heart-rending. When water was given them they could not swallow it, +owing to their throats being filled with ashes or burnt with the heated +air. + +"The ship was burning aft, and I jumped overboard, the sea being +intensely hot. I was at once swept seaward by a tidal wave, but, the sea +receding a considerable distance, the return wave washed me against an +upturned sloop to which I clung. I was joined by a man so dreadfully +burned and disfigured as to be unrecognizable. Afterwards I found he was +the captain of the Roraima, Captain Muggah. He was in dreadful agony, +begging piteously to be put on board his ship. + +"Picking up some wreckage which contained bedding and a tool chest, I, +with the help of five others who had joined me on the wreck, constructed +a rude raft, on which we placed the captain. Then, seeing an upturned +boat, I asked one of the five, a native of Martinique, to swim and fetch +it. Instead of returning to us, he picked up two of his countrymen and +went away in the direction of Fort de France. Seeing the Roddam, which +arrived in port shortly after we anchored, making for the Roraima, I +said good-bye to the captain and swam back to the Roraima. + +"The Roddam, however, burst into flames and put to sea. I reached the +Roraima at about half-past 2, and was afterwards taken off by a boat +from the French warship Suchet. Twenty-four others with myself were +taken on to Fort de France. Three of these died before reaching port. A +number of others have since died." + +Samuel Thomas, the gangway man, whose life was saved by the forethought +of Taylor, says that the scene on the burning ship was awful. The groans +and cries of the dying, for whom nothing could be done, were horrible. +He describes a woman as being burned to death with a living babe in her +arms. He says that it seemed as if the whole world was afire. + + +CONSUL AYME'S STATEMENT + + +The inflammable material in the forepart of the ship that would have +ignited that part of the vessel was thrown overboard by him and the +other two uninjured men. The Grappler, the telegraph company's ship, +was seen opposite the Usine Guerin, and disappeared as if blown up by a +submarine explosion. The captain's body was subsequently found by a boat +from the Suchet. + +Consul Ayme, of Guadeloupe, who, as already stated, had hastened to +Fort de France on hearing of the terrible event, tells the story of the +disaster in the following words: + +"Thursday morning the inhabitants of the city awoke to find heavy clouds +shrouding Mont Pelee crater. All day Wednesday horrid detonations had +been heard. These were echoed from St. Thomas on the north to Barbados +on the south. The cannonading ceased on Wednesday night, and fine ashes +fell like rain on St. Pierre. The inhabitants were alarmed, but +Governor Mouttet, who had arrived at St. Pierre the evening before, did +everything possible to allay the panic. + +"The British steamer Roraima reached St. Pierre on Thursday with ten +passengers, among whom were Mrs. Stokes and her three children, and Mrs. +H. J. Ince. They were watching the rain of ashes, when, with a frightful +roar and terrific electric discharges, a cyclone of fire, mud and steam +swept down from the crater over the town and bay, sweeping all before it +and destroying the fleet of vessels at anchor off the shore. There the +accounts of the catastrophe so far obtainable cease. Thirty thousand +corpses are strewn about, buried in the ruins of St. Pierre, or else +floating, gnawed by sharks, in the surrounding seas. Twenty-eight +charred, half-dead human beings were brought here. Sixteen of them +are already dead, and only four of the whole number are expected to +recover." + + +A WOMAN'S EXPERIENCE ON THE "RORAIMA" + + +Margaret Stokes, the 9 year old daughter of the late Clement Stokes, +of New York, who, with her mother, a brother aged 4 and a sister aged 3 +years, was on the ill-fated steamer Roraima, was saved from that vessel, +but is not expected to live. Her nurse, Clara King, tells the following +story of her experience: + +She says she was in her stateroom, when the steward of the Roraima +called out to her: + +"Look at Mont Pelee." + +She went on deck and saw a vast mass of black cloud coming down from the +volcano. The steward ordered her to return to the saloon, saying, "It is +coming." + +Miss King then rushed to the saloon. She says she experienced a feeling +of suffocation, which was followed by intense heat. The afterpart of the +Roraima broke out in flames. Ben Benson, the carpenter of the Roraima, +severely burned, assisted Miss King and Margaret Stokes to escape. With +the help of Mr. Scott, the first mate of the Roraima, he constructed +a raft, with life preservers. Upon this Miss King and Margaret were +placed. + +While this was being done Margaret's little brother died. Mate Scott +brought the child water at great personal danger, but it was unavailing. +Shortly after the death of the little boy Mrs. Stokes succumbed. +Margaret and Miss King eventually got away on the raft, and were picked +up by the steamer Korona. Mate Scott also escaped. Miss King did not +sustain serious injuries. She covered the face of Margaret with her +dress, but still the child was probably fatally burned. + +The only woman known at that time to have survived the disaster at St. +Pierre was a negress named Fillotte. She was found in a cellar Saturday +afternoon, where she had been for three days. She was still alive, but +fearfully burned from head to toes. She died afterward in the hospital. + + +CAPTAIN FREEMAN'S THRILLING ACCOUNT + + +Of the vessels in the harbor of St. Pierre on the fateful morning, only +one, the British steamer Roddam, escaped, and that with a crew of whom +few reached the open sea alive. Those who did escape were terribly +injured. Captain Freeman, of this vessel, tells what he experienced in +the following thrilling language: + +"St. Lucia, British West Indies, May 11.--The steamer Roddam, of which I +am captain, left St. Lucia at midnight of May 7, and was off St. Pierre, +Martinique, at 6 o'clock on the morning of the 8th. I noticed that the +volcano, Mont Pelee, was smoking, and crept slowly in toward the bay, +finding there among others the steamer Roraima, the telegraph repairing +steamer Grappler and four sailing vessels. I went to anchorage between 7 +and 8 and had hardly moored when the side of the volcano opened out with +a terrible explosion. A wall of fire swept over the town and the bay. +The Roddam was struck broadside by the burning mass. The shock to the +ship was terrible, nearly capsizing her. + + +AWFUL RESULTS + + +"Hearing the awful report of the explosion and seeing the great wall of +flames approaching the steamer, those on deck sought shelter wherever it +was possible, jumping into the cabin, the forecastle and even into the +hold. I was in the chart room, but the burning embers were borne by so +swift a movement of the air that they were swept in through the door and +port holes, suffocating and scorching me badly. I was terribly burned +by these embers about the face and hands, but managed to reach the +deck. Then, as soon as it was possible, I mustered the few survivors +who seemed able to move, ordered them to slip the anchor, leaped for +the bridge and ran the engine for full speed astern. The second and the +third engineer and a fireman were on watch below and so escaped injury. +They did their part in the attempt to escape, but the men on deck could +not work the steering gear because it was jammed by the debris from the +volcano. We accordingly went ahead and astern until the gear was free, +but in this running backward and forward it was two hours after the +first shock before we were clear of the bay. + +"One of the most terrifying conditions was that, the atmosphere +being charged with ashes, it was totally dark. The sun was completely +obscured, and the air was only illuminated by the flames from the +volcano and those of the burning town and shipping. It seems small to +say that the scene was terrifying in the extreme. As we backed out we +passed close to the Roraima, which was one mass of blaze. The steam was +rushing from the engine room, and the screams of those on board were +terrible to hear. The cries for help were all in vain, for I could +do nothing but save my own ship. When I last saw the Roraima she was +settling down by the stern. That was about 10 o'clock in the morning. + +"When the Roddam was safely out of the harbor of St. Pierre, with its +desolations and horrors, I made for St. Lucia. Arriving there, and when +the ship was safe, I mustered the survivors as well as I was able and +searched for the dead and injured. Some I found in the saloon where they +had vainly sought for safety, but the cabins were full of burning embers +that had blown in through the port holes. Through these the fire swept +as through funnels and burned the victims where they lay or stood, +leaving a circular imprint of scorched and burned flesh. I brought +ten on deck who were thus burned; two of them were dead, the others +survived, although in a dreadful state of torture from their burns. +Their screams of agony were heartrending. Out of a total of twenty-three +on board the Roddam, which includes the captain and the crew, ten are +dead and several are in the hospital. My first and second mates, my +chief engineer and my supercargo, Campbell by name, were killed. The +ship was covered from stem to stern with tons of powdered lava, which +retained its heat for hours after it had fallen. In many cases it was +practically incandescent, and to move about the deck in this burning +mass was not only difficult but absolutely perilous. I am only now able +to begin thoroughly to clear and search the ship for any damage done +by this volcanic rain, and to see if there are any corpses in +out-of-the-way places. For instance, this morning, I found one body in +the peak of the forecastle. The body was horribly burned and the sailor +had evidently crept in there in his agony to die. + +"On the arrival of the Roddam at St. Lucia the ship presented an +appalling appearance. Dead and calcined bodies lay about the deck, which +was also crowded with injured helpless and suffering people. Prompt +assistance was rendered to the injured by the authorities here and my +poor, tortured men were taken to the hospital. The dead were buried. +I have omitted to mention that out of twenty-one black laborers that I +brought from Grenada to help in stevedoring, only six survived. Most +of the others threw themselves overboard to escape a dreadful fate, but +they met a worse one, for it is an actual fact that the water around +the ship was literally at a boiling heat. The escape of my vessel +was miraculous. The woodwork of the cabins and bridge and everything +inflammable on deck were constantly igniting, and it was with great +difficulty that we few survivors managed to keep the flames down. My +ropes, awnings, tarpaulins were completely burned up. + +"I witnessed the entire destruction of St. Pierre. The flames enveloped +the town in every quarter with such rapidity that it was impossible that +any person could be saved. As I have said, the day was suddenly turned +to night, but I could distinguish by the light of the burning town +people distractedly running about on the beach. The burning buildings +stood out from the surrounding darkness like black shadows. All this +time the mountain was roaring and shaking, and in the intervals between +these terrifying sounds I could hear the cries of despair and agony from +the thousands who were perishing. These cries added to the terror of +the scene, but it is impossible to describe its horror or the dreadful +sensations it produced. It was like witnessing the end of the world. + +"Let me add that, after the first shock was over, the survivors of +the crew rendered willing help to navigate the ship to this port. Mr. +Plissoneau, our agent in Martinique, happening to be on board, was +saved, and I really believe that he is the only survivor of St. Pierre. +As it is, he is seriously burned on the hands and face. + +"FREEMAN, + +"Master British Steamship Roddam." + + +THE "ETONA" PASSES ST. PIERRE + + +The British steamer Etona, of the Norton Line, stopped at St. Lucia to +coal on May 10th. Captain Cantell there visited the Roddam and had an +interview with Captain Freeman. On the 11th the Elona put to sea again, +passing St. Pierre in the afternoon. We subjoin her captain's story: + +"The weather was clear and we had a fine view, but the old outlines of +St. Pierre were not recognizable. Everything was a mass of blue lava, +and the formation of the land itself seemed to have changed. When we +were about eight miles off the northern end of the island Mount Pelee +began to belch a second time. Clouds of smoke and lava shot into the +air and spread over all the sea, darkening the sun. Our decks in a +few minutes were covered with a substance that looked like sand dyed a +bluish tint, and which smelled like phosphorus. For all that the day was +clear, there was little to be seen satisfactorily. Over the island there +hung a blue haze. It seemed to me that the formation, the topography, of +the island was altered. + +"Everything seemed to be covered with a blue dust, such as had fallen +aboard us every day since we had been within the affected region. It +was blue lava dust. For more than an hour we scanned the coast with our +glasses, now and then discovering something that looked like a ruined +hamlet or collection of buildings. There was no life visible. Suddenly +we realized that we might have to fight for our lives as the Roddam's +people had done. + +"We were about four miles off the northern end of the island when +suddenly there shot up in the air to a tremendous height a column of +smoke. The sky darkened and the smoke seemed to swirl down upon us. In +fact, it spread all around, darkening the atmosphere as far as we could +see. I called Chief Engineer Farrish to the deck. + +"'Do you see that over there?' I asked, pointing to the eruption, for +it was the second eruption of Mont Pelee. He saw it all right. Captain +Freeman's story was fresh in my mind. + +"'Well, Farrish, rush your engines as they have never been rushed +before,' I said to him. He went below, and soon we began to burn coal +and pile up the feathers in our forefoot. + +"I was on watch with Second Officer Gibbs. At once we began to furl +awnings and make secure against fire. The crew were all showing an +anxious spirit, and everybody on board, including the four passengers, +were serious and apprehensive. + +"We began to cut through the water at almost twelve knots. Ordinarily we +make ten knots. We could see no more of the land contour, but everything +seemed to be enveloped in a great cloud. There was no fire visible, but +the lava dust rained down upon us steadily. In less than an hour there +were two inches of it upon our deck. + +"The air smelled like phosphorus. No one dared to look up to try to +locate the sun, because one's eyes would fill with lava dust. Some of +the blue lava dust is sticking to our mast yet, although we have swabbed +decks and rigging again and again to be clear of it. + +"After a little more than an hour's fast running we saw daylight ahead +and began to breathe easier. If I had not talked with Captain Freeman +and heard from him just how the black swirl of wind and fire rolled down +upon him, I would not have been so apprehensive, but would have thought +that the darkness and cloud that came down upon us meant just an +unusually heavy squall." + + +CHIEF ENGINEER FARRISH'S STORY + + +"The Etona's run from Montevideo was a fast one--I think a record +breaker. We were 22 days and 21 hours from port to port. Off Martinique +I stared at the coast for about an hour, and then went below. The blue +lava that covered everything faded into the haze that hung over the +island so that nothing was distinctly visible. Through my glass I +discovered a stream of lava, though. It stretched down the mountain +side, and seemed to be flowing into the sea. It was not clearly and +distinctly visible, however. + +"About 3 o'clock I went below to take forty winks. I had been in my +berth only a few minutes when the steward told me the captain wanted me +on the bridge. + +"'Do you see that, Farrish?' he asked, pointing at the land. An outburst +of smoke seemed to be sweeping down upon us. It made me think of the +Roddam's experience. Smoke and dust closed in about us, shutting out the +sunlight, and precipitating a fall of lava on our decks. + +"'Go below and drive her,' said the captain, and I didn't lose any time, +I can tell you. We burned coal as though it didn't cost a cent. The +safety valve was jumping every second, even though we were making twelve +knots an hour. For two hours we kept up the pace, and then, running into +clear daylight, let the engines slow down and we all cheered up a bit." + + +CAPTAIN CANTELL VISITS THE "RODDAM" + + +Captain Cantell went on board the Roddam, whose frightful condition he +thus describes: + +"At St. Lucia, on May 11th, I went on board the British steamship +Roddam, which had escaped from the terrible volcanic eruption at +Martinique two days before. The state of the ship was enough to show +that those on board must have undergone an awful experience. + +"The Roddam was covered with a mass of fine bluish gray dust or ashes of +cement-like appearance. In some parts it lay two feet deep on the decks. +This matter had fallen in a red-hot state all over the steamer, setting +fire to everything it struck that was burnable, and, when it fell on +the men on board, burning off limbs and large pieces of flesh. This was +shown by finding portions of human flesh when the decks were cleared of +the debris. The rigging, ropes, tarpaulins, sails, awnings, etc., were +charred or burned, and most of the upper stanchions and spars were swept +overboard or destroyed by fire. Skylights were smashed and cabins were +filled with volcanic dust. The scene of ruin was deplorable. + +"The captain, though suffering the greatest agony, succeeded in +navigating his vessel safely to the port of Castries, St. Lucia, with +eighteen dead bodies on the deck and human limbs scattered about. A +sailor stood by constantly wiping the captain's injured eyes. + +"I think the performance of the Roddam's captain was most wonderful, and +the more so when I saw his pitiful condition. I do not understand how +he kept up, yet when the steamer arrived at St. Lucia and medical +assistance was procured, this brave man asked the doctors to attend to +the others first and refused to be treated until this was done. + +"My interview with the captain brought out this account. I left him in +good spirits and receiving every comfort. The sight of his face would +frighten anyone not prepared to see it." + + +THE VIVID ACCOUNT OF M. ALBERT + + +To the accounts given by the survivors of the Roraima and the officers +of the Etona, it will be well to add the following graphic story told by +M. Albert, a planter of the island, the owner of an estate situated only +a mile to the northeast of the burning crater of Mont Pelee. His escape +from death had in it something of the marvellous. He says: + +"Mont Pelee had given warning of the destruction that was to come, but +we, who had looked upon the volcano as harmless, did not believe that +it would do more than spout fire and steam, as it had done on other +occasions. It was a little before eight o'clock on the morning of May +8 that the end came. I was in one of the fields of my estate when the +ground trembled under my feet, not as it does when the earth quakes, but +as though a terrible struggle was going on within the mountain. A terror +came upon me, but I could not explain my fear. + +"As I stood still Mont Pelee seemed to shudder, and a moaning sound +issued from its crater. It was quite dark, the sun being obscured by +ashes and fine volcanic dust. The air was dead about me, so dead that +the floating dust seemingly was not disturbed. Then there was a rending, +crashing, grinding noise, which I can only describe as sounding as +though every bit of machinery in the world had suddenly broken down. It +was deafening, and the flash of light that accompanied it was blinding, +more so than any lightning I have ever seen. + +"It was like a terrible hurricane, and where a fraction of a second +before there had been a perfect calm, I felt myself drawn into a vortex +and I had to brace myself firmly. It was like a great express train +rushing by, and I was drawn by its force. The mysterious force levelled +a row of strong trees, tearing them up by the roots and leaving bare a +space of ground fifteen yards wide and more than one hundred yards long. +Transfixed I stood, not knowing in what direction to flee. I looked +toward Mont Pelee, and above its apex there appeared a great black cloud +which reached high in the air. It literally fell upon the city of St. +Pierre. It moved with a rapidity that made it impossible for anything to +escape it. From the cloud came explosions that sounded as though all of +the navies of the world were in titanic combat. Lightning played in and +out in broad forks, the result being that intense darkness was followed +by light that seemed to be of magnifying power. + +"That St. Pierre was doomed I knew, but I was prevented from seeing the +destruction by a spur of the hill that shut off the view of the city. It +is impossible for me to tell how long I stood there inert. Probably it +was only a few seconds, but so vivid were my impressions that it +now seems as though I stood as a spectator for many minutes. When I +recovered possession of my senses I ran to my house and collected the +members of the family, all of whom were panic stricken. I hurried them +to the seashore, where we boarded a small steamship, in which we made +the trip in safety to Fort de France. + +"I know that there was no flame in the first wave that was sent down +upon St. Pierre. It was a heavy gas, like firedamp, and it must have +asphyxiated the inhabitants before they were touched by the fire, which +quickly followed. As we drew out to sea in the small steamship, Mont +Pelee was in the throes of a terrible convulsion. New craters seemed to +be opening all about the summit and lava was flowing in broad streams +in every direction. My estate was ruined while we were still in sight +of it. Many women who lived in St. Pierre escaped only to know that they +were left widowed and childless. This is because many of the wealthier +men sent their wives away, while they remained in St. Pierre to attend +to their business affairs." + + +WHAT HAPPENED ON THE "HORACE" + + +The British steamer Horace experienced the effect of the explosion when +farther from land. After touching at Barbados, she reached the vicinity +of Martinique on May 9th, her decks being covered with several inches +of dust when she was a hundred and twenty-five miles distant. We quote +engineer Anderson's story: + +"On the afternoon of May 8 (Thursday) we noticed a peculiar haze in +the direction of Martinique. The air seemed heavy and oppressive. The +weather conditions were not at all unlike those which precede the great +West Indian hurricanes, but, knowing it was not the season of the year +for them, we all remarked in the engine room that there must be a heavy +storm approaching. + +"Several of the sailors, experienced deep water seamen, laughed at our +prognostications, and informed us there would be no storm within +the next sixty hours, and insisted that, according to all fo'cas'le +indications, a dead calm was in sight. + +"So unusually peculiar were the weather conditions that we talked +of nothing else during the evening. That night, in the direction of +Martinique, there was a very black sky, an unusual thing at this season +of the year, and a storm was apparently brewing in a direction from +which storms do not come at this season. + + +GREAT FLASHES OF LIGHT + + +"As the night wore on those on watch noticed what appeared to be great +flashes of lightning in the direction of Martinique. It seemed as though +the ordinary conditions were reversed, and even the fo'cas'le prophets +were unable to offer explanations. + +"Occasionally, over the pounding of the engines and the rush of water, +we thought we could hear long, deep roars, not unlike the ending of a +deep peal of thunder. Several times we heard the rumble or roar, but at +the time we were not certain as to exactly what it was, or even whether +we really heard it. + +"There would suddenly come great flashes of light from the dark bank +toward Martinique. Some of them seemed to spread over a great area, +while others appeared to spout skyward, funnel shaped. All night this +continued, and it was not until day came that the flashes disappeared. +The dark bank that covered the horizon toward Martinique, however, did +not fade away with the breaking of day, and at eight in the morning of +the 9th (Friday) the whole section of the sky in that direction seemed +dark and troubled. + +"About nine o'clock Friday morning I was sitting on one of the +hatches aft with some of the other engineers and officers of the ship, +discussing the peculiar weather phenomena. I noticed a sort of grit that +got into my mouth from the end of the cigar I was smoking. + +"I attributed it to some rather bad coal which we had shipped aboard, +and, turning to Chief Engineer Evans, I remarked that 'that coal was +mighty dirty,' and he said that it was covering the ship with a sort of +grit. Then I noticed that grit was getting on my clothes, and finally +some one suggested that we go forward of the funnels, so we would not +get dirt on us. As we went forward we met one or two of the sailors from +the forecastle, who wanted to know about the dust that was falling on +the ship. Then we found that the grayish-looking ash was sifting all +over the ship, both forward and aft. + + +ASHES RAINED ON THE SHIP + + +"Every moment the ashes rained down all over the ship, and at the same +time grew thicker. A few moments later, the lookout called down that we +were running into a fog-bank dead ahead. Fog banks in that section are +unheard of at nine o'clock in the morning at this season, and we were +more than a hundred miles from land, and what could fog and sand be +doing there. + +"Before we knew it, we went into the fog, which proved to be a big +dense bank of this same sand, and it rained down on us from every side. +Ventilators were quickly brought to their places, and later even the +hatches were battened down. The dust became suffocating, and the men at +times had all they could do to keep from choking. What the stuff was we +could not at first conjecture, or rather, we didn't have much time to +speculate on it, for we had to get our ship in shape to withstand we +hardly knew what. + +"At first we thought that the sand must have been blown from shore. Then +we decided that if the Captain's figures were right we wouldn't be near +enough to shore to have sand blow on us, and as we had just cleared +Barbados, we knew that the Captain's figures had to be right. + +"Just as the storm of sand was at its height, Fourth Engineer Wild was +nearly suffocated by it, but was easily revived. About this time it +became so dark that we found it necessary to start up the electric +lights, and it was not until after we got clear from the fog that +we turned the current off. In the meantime they had burned from nine +o'clock in the morning until after two in the afternoon. + + +THE ENGINE BECAME CHOKED + + +"Then there was another anxious moment shortly after nine o'clock. Third +Engineer Rennie had been running the donkey engine, when suddenly it +choked, and when he finally got it clear from the sand or ashes, he +found the valves were all cut out, and then it was we discovered that +it was not sand, but some sort of a composition that seemed to cut steel +like emery. Then came the danger that it would get into the valves of +the engine and cut them out, and for several moments all hands scurried +about and helped make the engine room tight, and even then the ash +drifted in and kept all the engine room force wiping the engines clear +of it. + +"Toward three o'clock in the afternoon of Friday we were practically +clear of the sand, but at eleven o'clock that night we ran into a second +bank of it, though not as bad as the first. We made some experiments, +and found the stuff was superior to emery dust. It cut deeper and +quicker, and only about half as much was required to do the work. We +made up our minds we would keep what came on board, as it was better +than the emery dust and much cheaper, so we gathered it up. + +"That night there were more of the same electric phenomena toward +Martinique, but it was not until we got into St. Lucia, where we saw the +Roddam, that we learned of the terrible disaster at St. Pierre, and then +we knew that our sand was lava dust." + +The volcanic ash which fell on the decks of the Horace was ground as +fine as rifle powder, and was much finer than that which covered the +decks of the Etona. + +Returning to the stories told by officers of the Roraima, of which a +number have been given, it seems desirable to add here the narrative of +Ellery S. Scott, the mate of the ruined ship, since it gives a vivid and +striking account of his personal experience of the frightful disaster, +with many details of interest not related by others. + + +MATE SCOTT'S GRAPHIC STORY + + +"We got to St. Pierre in the Roraima," began Mr. Scott, "at 6.30 o'clock +on Thursday morning. That's the morning the mountain and the town and +the ships were all sent to hell in a minute. + +"All hands had had breakfast. I was standing on the fo'c's'l head trying +to make out the marks on the pipes of a ship 'way out and heading for +St. Lucia. I wasn't looking at the mountain at all. But I guess the +captain was, for he was on the bridge, and the last time I heard him +speak was when he shouted, 'Heave up, Mr. Scott; heave up.' I gave the +order to the men, and I think some of them did jump to get the anchor +up, but nobody knows what really happened for the next fifteen minutes. +I turned around toward the captain and then I saw the mountain. + +"Did you ever see the tide come into the Bay of Fundy. It doesn't sneak +in a little at a time as it does 'round here. It rolls in in waves. +That's the way the cloud of fire and mud and white-hot stones rolled +down from that volcano over the town and over the ships. It was on us +in almost no time, but I saw it and in the same glance I saw our captain +bracing himself to meet it on the bridge. He was facing the fire cloud +with both hands gripped hard to the bridge rail, his legs apart and his +knees braced back stiff. I've seen him brace himself that same way many +a time in a tough sea with the spray going mast-head high and green +water pouring along the decks. + +"I saw the captain, I say, at the same instant I saw that ruin coming +down on us. I don't know why, but that last glimpse of poor Muggah on +his bridge will stay with me just as long as I remember St. Pierre and +that will be long enough. + +"In another instant it was all over for him. As I was looking at him he +was all ablaze. He reeled and fell on the bridge with his face toward +me. His mustache and eyebrows were gone in a jiffy. His hat had gone, +and his hair was aflame, and so were his clothes from head to foot. +I knew he was conscious when he fell, by the look in his eyes, but he +didn't make a sound. + +"That all happened a long way inside of half a minute; then something +new happened. When the wave of fire was going over us, a tidal wave of +the sea came out from the shore and did the rest. That wall of rushing +water was so high and so solid that it seemed to rise up and join the +smoke and flame above. For an instant we could see nothing but the water +and the flame. + +"That tidal wave picked the ship up like a canoe and then smashed her. +After one list to starboard the ship righted, but the masts, the bridge, +the funnel and all the upper works had gone overboard. + +"I had saved myself from fire by jamming a metal ventilator cover over +my head and jumping from the fo'c's'l head. Two St. Kitts negroes saved +me from the water by grabbing me by the legs and pulling me down into +the fo'c's'l after them. Before I could get up three men tumbled in on +top of me. Two of them were dead. + +"Captain Muggah went overboard, still clinging to the fragments of his +wrecked bridge. Daniel Taylor, the ship's cooper, and a Kitts native +jumped overboard to save him. Taylor managed to push the captain on to +a hatch that had floated off from us and then they swam back to the ship +for more assistance, but nothing could be done for the captain. Taylor +wasn't sure he was alive. The last we saw of him or his dead body it was +drifting shoreward on that hatch. + +"Well, after staying in the fo'c's'l about twenty minutes I went out on +deck. There were just four of us left aboard who could do anything. +The four were Thompson, Dan Taylor, Quashee, and myself. It was still +raining fire and hot rocks and you could hardly see a ship's length for +dust and ashes, but we could stand that. There were burning men and some +women and two or three children lying around the deck. Not just burned, +but burning, then, when we got to them. More than half the ship's +company had been killed in that first rush of flame. Some had rolled +overboard when the tidal wave came and we never saw so much as their +bodies. The cook was burned to death in his galley. He had been paring +potatoes for dinner and what was left of his right hand held the shank +of his potato knife. The wooden handle was in ashes. All that happened +to a man in less than a minute. The donkey engineman was killed on deck +sitting in front of his boiler. We found parts of some bodies--a hand, +or an arm or a leg. Below decks there were some twenty alive. + +"The ship was on fire, of course, what was left of it. The stumps of +both masts were blazing. Aft she was like a furnace, but forward the +flames had not got below deck, so we four carried those who were still +alive on deck into the fo'c's'l. All of them were burned and most of +them were half strangled. + +"One boy, a passenger and just a little shaver [the four-year-old son of +the late Clement Stokes, above spoken of] was picked up naked. His hair +and all his clothing had been burned off, but he was alive. We rolled +him in a blanket and put him in a sailor's bunk. A few minutes later we +looked at him and he was dead. + +"My own son's gone, too. It had been his trick at lookout ahead during +the dog watch that morning, when we were making for St. Pierre, so I +supposed at first when the fire struck us that he was asleep in his bunk +and safe. But he wasn't. Nobody could tell me where he was. I don't know +whether he was burned to death or rolled overboard and drowned. He was +a likely boy. He had been several voyages with me and would have been a +master some day. He used to say he'd make me mate. + +"After getting all hands that had any life left in them below and +'tended to the best we could, the four of us that were left half way +ship-shape started in to fight the fire. We had case oil stowed forward. +Thanks to that tidal wave that cleared our decks there wasn't much left +to burn, so we got the fire down so's we could live on board with it for +several hours more and then the four turned to to knock a raft together +out of what timber and truck we could find below. Our boats had gone +overboard with the masts and funnel. + + +PREPARED TO TRUST TO LUCK + + +"We made that raft for something over thirty that were alive. We put +provisions on for two days and rigged up a make-shift mast and sail, +for we intended to go to sea. We were only three boats' length from the +shore, but the shore was hell itself. We intended to put straight out +and trust to luck that the Korona, that was about due at St. Pierre, +would pick us up. But we did not have to risk the raft, for about 3 +o'clock in the afternoon, when we were almost ready to put the raft +overboard, the Suchet came along and took us all off. We thought for a +minute just after we were wrecked that we were to get help from a ship +that passed us. We burned blue lights, but she kept on. We learned +afterward that she was the Roddam." + +Soundings made off Martinique after the explosion showed that earthquake +effects of much importance had taken place under the sea bottom, which +had been lifted in some places and had sunk in others. While deep +crevices had been formed on the land, a still greater effect had +seemingly been produced beneath the water. During the explosion the sea +withdrew several hundred feet from its shore line, and then came back +steaming with fury; this indicating a lift and fall of the ocean bed off +the isle. Soundings made subsequently near the island found in one place +a depth of 4,000 feet where before it had been only 600 feet deep. The +French Cable Company, which was at work trying to repair the cables +broken by the eruption, found the bottom of the Caribbean Sea so changed +as to render the old charts useless. + +New charts will need to be made for future navigation. The changes +in sea levels were not confined to the immediate centre of volcanic +activity, but extended as far north as Porto Rico, and it was believed +that the seismic wave would be found to have altered the ocean bed round +Jamaica. Vessels plying between St. Thomas, Martinique, St. Lucia and +other islands found it necessary to heave the lead while many miles at +sea. + +It is estimated that the sea had encroached from ten feet to two miles +along the coast of St. Vincent near Georgetown, and that a section on +the north of the island had dropped into the sea. Soundings showed +seven fathoms where before the eruption there were thirty-six fathoms of +water. Vessels that endeavored to approach St. Vincent toward the north +reported that it was impossible to get nearer than eight miles to +the scene of the catastrophe, and that at that distance the ocean was +seriously perturbed as from a submarine volcano, boiling and hissing +continually. + +In this connection the remarkable experience reported by the officers +of the Danish steamship Nordby, on the day preceding the eruption, is of +much interest, as seeming to show great convulsions of the sea bottom +at a point several hundred miles from Martinique. The following is the +story told by Captain Eric Lillien-skjold: + + +THE STRANGE EXPERIENCE OF THE "NORDBY" + + +"On May 5th," the captain said, "we touched at St. Michael's for water. +We had had an easy voyage from Girgenti, in Sicily, and we wanted to +finish an easy run here. We left St. Michael's on the same day. Nothing +worth while talking about occurred until two days afterward--Wednesday, +May 7th. + +"We were plodding along slowly that day. About noon I took the bridge +to make an observation. It seemed to be hotter than ordinary. I shed my +coat and vest and got into what little shade there was. As I worked it +grew hotter and hotter. I didn't know what to make of it. Along about +2 o'clock in the afternoon it was so hot that all hands got to talking +about it. We reckoned that something queer was coming off, but none of +us could explain what it was. You could almost see the pitch softening +in the seams. + +"Then, as quick as you could toss a biscuit over its rail, the Nordby +dropped--regularly dropped--three or four feet down into the sea. No +sooner did it do this than big waves, that looked like they were coming +from all directions at once, began to smash against our sides. This was +queerer yet, because the water a minute before was as smooth as I ever +saw it. I had all hands piped on deck and we battened down everything +loose to make ready for a storm. And we got it all right--the strangest +storm you ever heard tell of. + +"There was something wrong with the sun that afternoon. It grew red and +then dark red and then, about a quarter after 2, it went out of sight +altogether. The day got so dark that you couldn't see half a ship's +length ahead of you. We got our lamps going, and put on our oilskins, +ready for a hurricane. All of a sudden there came a sheet of lightning +that showed up the whole tumbling sea for miles and miles. We sort of +ducked, expecting an awful crash of thunder, but it didn't come. There +was no sound except the big waves pounding against our sides. There +wasn't a breath of wind. + +"Well, sir, at that minute there began the most exciting time I've ever +been through, and I've been on every sea on the map for twenty-five +years. Every second there'd be waves 15 or 20 feet high, belting us +head-on, stern-on and broadside, all at once. We could see them coming, +for without any stop at all flash after flash of lightning was blazing +all about us. + +"Something else we could see, too. Sharks! There were hundreds of them +on all sides, jumping up and down in the water. Some of them jumped +clear out of it. And sea birds! A flock of them, squawking and crying, +made for our rigging and perched there. They seemed like they were +scared to death. But the queerest part of it all was the water itself. +It was hot--not so hot that our feet could not stand it when it washed +over the deck, but hot enough to make us think that it had been heated +by some kind of a fire. + +"Well that sort of thing went on hour after hour. The waves, the +lightning, the hot water and the sharks, and all the rest of the odd +things happening, frightened the crew out of their wits. Some of them +prayed out loud--I guess the first time they ever did in their lives. +Some Frenchmen aboard kept running around and yelling, 'Cest le dernier +jour!' (This is the last day.) We were all worried. Even the officers +began to think that the world was coming to an end. Mighty strange +things happen on the sea, but this topped them all. + +"I kept to the bridge all night. When the first hour of morning came +the storm was still going on. We were all pretty much tired out by that +time, but there was no such thing as trying to sleep. The waves still +were batting us around and we didn't know whether we were one mile or +a thousand miles from shore. At 2 o'clock in the morning all the queer +goings on stopped just the way they began--all of a sudden. We lay to +until daylight; then we took our reckonings and started off again. We +were about 700 miles off Cape Henlopen. + +"No, sir; you couldn't get me through a thing like that again for +$10,000. None of us was hurt, and the old Nordby herself pulled through +all right, but I'd sooner stay ashore than see waves without wind and +lightning without thunder." + + +FIERY STREAM CONTAINED POISONOUS GASES + + +Careful inspection showed that the fiery stream which so completely +destroyed St. Pierre must have been composed of poisonous gases, which +instantly suffocated every one who inhaled them, and of other gases +burning furiously, for nearly all the victims had their hands covering +their mouths, or were in some other attitude showing that they had +perished from suffocation. + +It is believed that Mont Pelee threw off a great gasp of some +exceedingly heavy and noxious gas, something akin to firedamp, which +settled upon the city and rendered the inhabitants insensible. This was +followed by the sheet of flame that swept down the side of the mountain. +This theory is sustained by the experience of the survivors who were +taken from the ships in the harbor, as they say that their first +experience was one of faintness. + +The dumb animals were wiser than man, and early took warning of the +storm of fire which Mont Pelee was storing up to hurl upon the island. +Even before the mountain began to rumble, late in April, live stock +became uneasy, and at times were almost uncontrollable. Cattle lowed in +the night. Dogs howled and sought the company of their masters, and when +driven forth they gave every evidence of fear. + +Wild animals disappeared from the vicinity of Mont Pelee. Even the +snakes, which at ordinary times are found in great numbers near the +volcano, crawled away. Birds ceased singing and left the trees that +shaded the sides of Pelee. A great fear seemed to be upon the island, +and though it was shared by the human inhabitants, they alone neglected +to protect themselves. + +Of the villages in the vicinity of St. Pierre only one escaped, the +others suffering the fate of the city. The fortunate one was Le Carbet, +on the south, which escaped uninjured, the flood of lava stopping when +within two hundred feet of the town. Morne Rouge, a beautiful summer +resort, frequented by the people of the island during the hot season as +a place of recreation, also escaped. In the height of the season several +thousand people gathered there, though at the time of the explosion +there were but a few hundred. Though located on an elevation between the +city and the crater, it was by great good fortune saved. + +The Governor of Martinique, Mr. Mouttet, whose precautions to prevent +the people fleeing from the city aided to make the work of death +complete, was himself among the victims of the burning mountain. With +him in this fate was Colonel Dain, commander of the troops who formed a +cordon round the doomed city. + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +St. Vincent Island and Mont Soufriere in 1812. + + +Among all the islands of the Caribbees St. Vincent is unique in natural +wonders and beauties. Situated about ninety-five miles west of Barbados, +it has a length of eighteen and a width of eleven miles, the whole mass +being largely composed of a single peak which rises from the ocean's +bed. From north to south volcanic hills traverse its length, their +ridges intersected by fertile and beautiful valleys. + +A ridge of mountains crosses the island, dividing it into eastern and +western parts. Kingstown, the capital, a town of 8,000 inhabitants, is +on the southward side and extends along the shores of a beautiful +bay, with mountains gradually rising behind it in the form of a vast +amphitheatre. Three streets, broad and lined with good houses, run +parallel to the water-front. There are many other intersecting highways, +some of which lead back to the foothills, from which good roads ascend +the mountains. + +The majority of the houses have red tile roofing and a goodly number of +them are of stone, one story high, with thick walls after the Spanish +style--the same types of houses that were in St. Pierre and which +are not unlike the old Roman houses which in all stages of ruin and +semi-preservation are found in Pompeii to this day. + +Behind the general group of the houses of the town loom the Governor's +residence and the buildings of the botanical gardens which overlook the +town. + +Kingstown is the trading centre and the town of importance in the +island. It contains the churches and chapels of five Protestant +denominations and a number of excellent schools. Away from Kingstown, +and the smaller settlement of Georgetown, the population is almost +wholly rural, occupying scattered villages which consist of negro huts +clustering around a few substantial buildings or of cabins grouped about +old plantation buildings somewhat after the ante-bellum fashion in our +own Southern States. + +One of the tragedies of the West Indies was the sinking of old Port +Royal, the resort of buccaneers, in 1692. The harbor of Kingstown is +commonly supposed to cover the site of the old settlement. There is +a tradition that a buoy for many years was attached to the spire of a +sunken church in order to warn mariners. Three thousand persons perished +in the disaster. + + +DESCENDANTS OF ORIGINAL INDIAN POPULATION + + +The northern portion of the island, that desolated by the recent +volcanic eruption, was inhabited by people living in the manner +just described, the great majority of them being negroes. The total +population of the island is about 45,000, of whom 30,000 are Africans +and about 3,000 Europeans, the remainder being nearly all Asiatics. +There are, or rather were, a number of Caribs, the descendants of the +original warlike Indian population of these islands. Many of these live +in St. Vincent, though there are others in Dominico. As their residence +was in the northern section of the island, the volcano seems to have +completed the work for the Caribs of this island which the Spaniard long +ago began. These Caribs were really half-breds, having amalgamated with +the negroes. Many of the blacks own land of their own, raising arrow +root, which, since the decay of the sugar industry, is the chief export. + +In an island only eighteen miles long by eleven broad there is not room +for any distinctly marked mountain range. The whole of St. Vincent, in +fact, is a fantastic tumble of hills, culminating in the volcanic ridge +which runs lengthwise of the oval-shaped island. The culminating peak of +the great volcanic mass, for St. Vincent is nothing more, is Mont Garou, +of which La Soufriere is a sort of lofty excrescence in the northwest, +4,048 feet high, and flanking the main peak at some distance away. + +It may be said that all the volcanic mountains in this part of the West +Indies have what the people call a "soufriere"--a "sulphur pit," or +"sulphur crater"--the name coming, as in the case of past disturbances +of Mont Pelee, from the strong stench of sulphuretted hydrogen which +issues from them when the volcano becomes agitated. + +In 1812 it was La Soufriere adjacent to Mont Garou which broke loose on +the island of St. Vincent, and it is the same Soufriere which again has +devastated the island and has bombarded Kingstown with rocks, lava and +ashes. + +The old crater of Mont Garou has long been extinct, and, like the old +crater of Mont Pelee, near St. Pierre, it had far down in its depths, +surrounded by sheer cliffs from 500 to 800 feet high, a lake. Glimpses +of the lake of Mont Garou are difficult to get, owing to the thick +verdure growing about the dangerous edges of the precipices, but those +who have seen it describe it as a beautiful sheet of deep blue water. + + +THE APPEARANCE OF THE SOUFRIERE + + +Previous to the eruption of 1812 the appearance of the Soufriere was +most interesting. The crater was half a mile in diameter and five +hundred feet in depth. In its centre was a conical hill, fringed with +shrubs and vines; at whose base were two small lakes, one sulphurous, +the other pure and tasteless. This lovely and beautiful spot was +rendered more interesting by the singularly melodious notes of a bird, +an inhabitant of these upper solitudes, and altogether unknown to the +other parts of the island--hence called, or supposed to be, "invisible," +as it had never been seen. (It is of interest to state that Frederick +A. Ober, in a visit to the island some twenty years ago, succeeded in +obtaining specimens of this previously unknown bird.) From the fissures +of the cone a thin white smoke exuded, occasionally tinged with a light +blue flame. Evergreens, flowers and aromatic shrubs clothed the steep +sides of the crater, which made, as the first indication of the eruption +on April 27, 1812, a tremulous noise in the air. A severe concussion of +the earth followed, and then a column of thick black smoke burst from +the crater. + + +THE ERUPTION OF 1812 + + +The eruption which followed these premonitory symptoms was one of the +most terrific which had occurred in the West Indies up to that time. It +was the culminating event which seemed to relieve a pressure within the +earth's crust which extended from the Mississippi Valley to Caracas, +Venezuela, producing terrible effects in the latter place. Here, +thirty-five days before the volcanic explosion, the ground was rent and +shaken by a frightful earthquake which hurled the city in ruins to the +ground and killed ten thousand of its inhabitants in a moment of time. + +La Soufriere made the first historic display of its hidden powers in +1718, when lava poured from its crater. A far more violent demonstration +of its destructive forces was that above mentioned. On this occasion the +eruption lasted for three days, ruining a number of the estates in the +vicinity and destroying many lives. Myriads of tons of ashes, cinders, +pumice and scoriae, hurled from the crater, fell in every section of +the island. Volumes of sand darkened the air, and woods, ridges and cane +fields were covered with light gray ashes, which speedily destroyed all +vegetation. The sun for three days seemed to be in a total eclipse, +the sea was discolored and the ground bore a wintry appearance from the +white crust of fallen ashes. + +Carib natives who lived at Morne Rond fled from their houses to +Kingstown. As the third day drew to a close flames sprang pyramidically +from the crater, accompanied by loud thunder and electric flashes, +which rent the column of smoke hanging over the volcano. Eruptive matter +pouring from the northwest side plunged over the cliff, carrying down +rocks and woods in its course. The island was shaken by an earthquake +and bombarded with showers of cinders and stones, which set houses on +fire and killed many of the natives. + + +THE TERRIBLE EARTHQUAKE AT CARACAS + + +For nearly two years before this explosion earthquakes had been common, +and sea and land had been agitated from the valley of the Mississippi to +the coasts of Venezuela and the mountains of New Grenada, and from the +Azores to the West Indies. On March 26, 1812, these culminated in the +terrible tragedy, spoken of above, of which Humboldt gives us a vivid +account. + +On that day the people of the Venezuelan city of Caracas were assembled +in the churches, beneath a still and blazing sky, when the earth +suddenly heaved and shook, like a great monster waking from slumber, +and in a single minute 10,000 people were buried beneath the walls of +churches and houses, which tumbled in hideous ruin upon their heads. The +same earthquake made itself felt along the whole line of the Northern +Cordilleras, working terrible destruction, and shook the earth as far +as Santa Fe de Bogota and Honda, 180 leagues from Caracas. This was a +preliminary symptom of the internal disorder of the earth. + +While the wretched inhabitants of Caracas who had escaped the earthquake +were dying of fever and starvation, and seeking among villages and +farms places of safety from the renewed earthquake shocks, the almost +forgotten volcano of St. Vincent was muttering in suppressed wrath. For +twelve months it had given warning, by frequent shocks of the earth, +that it was making ready to play its part in the great subterranean +battle. On the 27th of April its deep-hidden powers broke their bonds, +and the conflict between rock and fire began. + + +THE MOUNTAIN STONES A HERD-BOY + + +The first intimation of the outbreak was rather amusing than alarming. +A negro boy was herding cattle on the mountain side. A stone fell near +him. Another followed. He fancied that some other boys were pelting him +from the cliff above, and began throwing stones upward at his fancied +concealed tormentors. But the stones fell thicker, among them some too +large to be thrown by any human hand. Only then did the little fellow +awake to the fact that it was not a boy like himself, but the mighty +mountain, that was flinging these stones at him. He looked up and saw +that the black column which was rising from the crater's mouth was no +longer harmless vapor, but dust, ashes and stones. Leaving the cattle to +their fate, he fled for his life, while the mighty cannon of the Titans +roared behind him as he ran. For three days and nights this continued; +then, on the 30th, a stream of lava poured over the crater's rim and +rushed downward, reaching the sea in four hours, and the great eruption +was at an end. + +On the same day, says Humboldt, at a distance of more than 200 leagues, +"the inhabitants not only of Caracas, but of Calabozo, situated in +the midst of the Lianos, over a space of 4,000 square leagues, were +terrified by a subterranean noise which resembled frequent discharges of +the heaviest cannon. It was accompanied by no shock, and, what is very +remarkable, was as loud on the coast as at eighty leagues' distance +inland, and at Caracas, as well as at Calabozo, preparations were made +to put the place in defence against an enemy who seemed to be advancing +with heavy artillery." + +It was no enemy that man could deal with. Fortunately, it confined its +assault to deep noises, and desisted from earthquake shocks. Similar +noises were heard in Martinique and Guadeloupe, and here also without +shocks. The internal thunder was the signal of what was taking place on +St. Vincent. With this last warning sound the trouble, which had lasted +so long, was at an end. The earthquakes which for two years had shaken +a sheet of the earth's surface larger than half Europe, were stilled by +the eruption of St. Vincent's volcanic peak. + + +BARBADOS COVERED WITH ASHES + + +Northeast of the original crater of the Soufriere a new one was formed +which was a half mile in diameter and five hundred feet deep. The old +crater was in time transformed into a beautiful blue lake, as above +stated, walled in by ragged cliffs to a height of eight hundred feet. + +It was looked upon as a remarkable circumstance that although the air +was perfectly calm during the eruption, Barbados, which is ninety-five +miles to the windward, was covered inches deep with ashes. The +inhabitants there and on other neighboring islands were terrified by the +darkness, which continued for four hours and a half. Troops were called +under arms, the supposition from the continued noise being that hostile +fleets were in an engagement. + +The movement of the ashes to windward, as just stated, was viewed as a +remarkable phenomenon, and is cited by Elise Reclus, in "The Ocean," to +show the force of different aerial currents; "On the first day of May, +1812, when the northeast trade-wind was in all its force, enormous +quantities of ashes obscured the atmosphere above the Island of +Barbados, and covered the ground with a thick layer. One would have +supposed that they came from the volcanoes of the Azores, which were +to the northeast; nevertheless they were cast up by the crater in St. +Vincent, one hundred miles to the west. It is therefore certain that the +debris had been hurled, by the force of the eruption, above the moving +sheet of the trade-winds into an aerial river proceeding in a contrary +direction." For this it must have been hurled miles high into the air, +till caught by the current of the anti-trade winds. + + +KINGSLEY'S VISIT TO SAINT VINCENT + + +From Charles Kingsley's "At Last" we extract, from the account of the +visit of the author to St. Vincent, some interesting matter concerning +the 1812 eruption and its effect on the mountain; also its influence +upon distant Barbados, as just stated. + +"The strangest fact about this eruption was, that the mountain did not +make use of its old crater. The original vent must have become so jammed +and consolidated, in the few years between 1785 and 1812, that it could +not be reopened, even by a steam force the vastness of which may be +guessed at from the vastness of the area which it had shaken for +two years. So, when the eruption was over, it was found that the old +crater-lake, incredible as it may seem, remained undisturbed, so far +as has been ascertained; but close to it, and separated only by a +knife-edge of rock some 700 feet in height, and so narrow that, as I +was assured by one who had seen it, it is dangerous to crawl along it, +a second crater, nearly as large as the first, had been blasted out, the +bottom of which, in like manner, was afterward filled with water. + +"I regretted much that I could not visit it. Three points I longed +to ascertain carefully--the relative heights of the water in the two +craters; the height and nature of the spot where the lava stream issued; +and, lastly, if possible, the actual causes of the locally famous +Rabacca, or 'Dry River,' one of the largest streams in the island, +which was swallowed up during the eruption, at a short distance from its +source, leaving its bed an arid gully to this day. But it could not be, +and I owe what little I know of the summit of the soufriere principally +to a most intelligent and gentleman-like young Wesleyan minister, whose +name has escaped me. He described vividly, as we stood together on the +deck, looking up at the volcano, the awful beauty of the twin lakes, and +of the clouds which, for months together, whirl in and out of the cups +in fantastic shapes before the eddies of the trade wind. + + +BLACK SUNDAY AT BARBADOS + + +"The day after the explosion, 'Black Sunday,' gave a proof of, though no +measure of, the enormous force which had been exerted. Eighty miles to +windward lies Barbados. All Saturday a heavy cannonading had been heard +to the eastward. The English and French fleets were surely engaged. The +soldiers were called out; the batteries manned; but the cannonade died +away, and all went to bed in wonder. On the 1st of May the clocks struck +six, but the sun did not, as usual in the tropics, answer to the call. +The darkness was still intense, and grew more intense as the morning +wore on. A slow and silent rain of impalpable dust was falling over the +whole island. The negroes rushed shrieking into the streets. Surely the +last day was come. The white folk caught (and little blame to them) the +panic, and some began to pray who had not prayed for years. The pious +and the educated (and there were plenty of both in Barbados) were not +proof against the infection. Old letters describe the scene in the +churches that morning as hideous--prayers, sobs, and cries, in Stygian +darkness, from trembling crowds. And still the darkness continued and +the dust fell. + + +INCIDENTS AT BARBADOS + + +"I have a letter written by one long since dead, who had at least powers +of description of no common order, telling how, when he tried to go out +of his house upon the east coast, he could not find the trees on his own +lawn save by feeling for their stems. He stood amazed not only in utter +darkness, but in utter silence; for the trade-wind had fallen dead, +the everlasting roar of the surf was gone, and the only noise was the +crashing of branches, snapped by the weight of the clammy dust. He went +in again, and waited. About one o'clock the veil began to lift; a +lurid sunlight stared in from the horizon, but all was black overhead. +Gradually the dust drifted away; the island saw the sun once more, and +saw itself inches deep in black, and in this case fertilizing, dust. The +trade-wind blew suddenly once more out of the clear east, and the surf +roared again along the shore. + +"Meanwhile a heavy earthquake-wave had struck part at least of the +shores of Barbados. The gentleman on the east coast, going out, found +traces of the sea, and boats and logs washed up some ten to twenty feet +above high-tide mark; a convulsion which seemed to have gone unmarked +during the general dismay. + +"One man at least, an old friend of John Hunter, Sir Joseph Banks and +others their compeers, was above the dismay, and the superstitious panic +which accompanied it. Finding it still dark when he rose to dress, he +opened (so the story used to run) his window; found it stick, and felt +upon the sill a coat of soft powder. 'The volcano in St. Vincent has +broken out at last,' said the wise man, 'and this is the dust of it.' So +he quieted his household and his negroes, lighted his candles, and went +to his scientific books, in that delight, mingled with an awe not the +less deep, because it is rational and self-possessed, with which he, +like the other men of science, looked at the wonders of this wondrous +world." + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +Submarine Volcanoes and their Work of Island Building. + + +In November, 1867, a volcano suddenly began to show signs of activity +beneath the deep sea of the Pacific Ocean. There are some islands nearly +two thousands miles to the east of Australia called the Navigator's +Group, in which there had been no history of an eruption, nor had such +an event been handed down by tradition. Most of the islands in the +Pacific Ocean are old volcanoes, or are made up of rocks cast forth from +extinct burning mountains. They rise up like peaks through the +great depths of the ocean, and the top, which just appears above the +sea-level, is generally encircled by a growth of coral. Hence they are +termed coral islands. These islands every now and then rise higher than +the sea-level, owing to some deep upheaving force, and then the coral is +lifted up above the water, and become a solid rock. But occasionally the +reverse of this takes place, and the islands begin to sink into the +sea, owing to a force which causes the base of the submarine mountain +to become depressed. Sometimes they disappear. All this shows that some +great disturbing forces are in action at the bottom of the sea, and just +within the earth's crust, and that they are of a volcanic nature. + +For some time before the eruption in question, earthquakes shook the +surrounding islands of the Navigator's Group, and caused great alarm, +and when the trembling of the earth was very great, the sea began to be +agitated near one of the islands, and vast circles of disturbed water +were formed. Soon the water began to be forced upwards, and dead fish +were seen floating about. After a while, steam rushed forth, and jets of +mud and volcanic sand. Moreover, when the steam began to rush up out of +the water, the violence of the general agitation of the land and of the +surface of the sea increased. + + +AN ERUPTION DESCRIBED + + +When the eruption was at its height vast columns of mud and masses of +stone rushed into the air to a height of 2,000 feet, and the fearful +crash of masses of rock hurled upwards and coming in collision with +others which were falling attested the great volume of ejected matter +which accumulated in the bed of the ocean, although no trace of a +volcano could be seen above the surface of the sea. Similar submarine +volcanic action has been observed in the Atlantic Ocean, and crews of +ships have reported that they have seen in different places sulphurous +smoke, flame, jets of water, and steam, rising up from the sea, or they +have observed the waters greatly discolored and in a state of violent +agitation, as if boiling in large circles. + +New shoals have also been encountered, or a reef of rocks just emerging +above the surface, where previously there was always supposed to have +been deep water. On some few occasions, the gradual building up of an +island by submarine volcanoes has been observed, as that of Sabrina in +1181, off St. Michael's, in the Azores. The throwing up of ashes in this +case, and the formation of a conical hill 300 feet high, with a crater +out of which spouted lava and steam, took place very rapidly. But the +waves had the best of it, and finally washed Sabrina into the depths of +the ocean. Previous eruptions in the same part of the sea were recorded +as having happened in 1691 and 1720. + +In 1831, a submarine volcanic eruption occurred in the Mediterranean +Sea, between Sicily and that part of the African coast where Carthage +formerly stood. A few years before, Captain Smyth had sounded the +spot in a survey of the sea ordered by Government, and he found the +sea-bottom to be under 500 feet of water. On June 28, about a fortnight +before the eruption was visible, Sir Pulteney Malcom, in passing over +the spot in his ship, felt the shock of an earthquake as if he had +struck on a sandbank, and the same shocks were felt on the west coast of +Sicily, in a direction from south-west to north-east. + + +BUILDING UP OF AN ISLAND BY SUBMARINE VOLCANOES + + +About July 10, the captain of a Sicilian vessel reported that as he +passed near the place he saw a column of water like a waterspout, sixty +feet high, and 800 yards in circumference, rising from the sea, and soon +after a dense rush of steam in its place, which ascended to the height +of 1,800 feet. The same captain, on his return eighteen days after, +found a small island twelve feet high, with a crater in its centre, +throwing forth volcanic matter and immense columns of vapor, the sea +around being covered with floating cinders and dead fish. The eruption +continued with great violence to the end of the same month. By the end +of the month the island grew to ninety feet in height, and measured +three-quarters of a mile round. By August 4th it became 200 feet high +and three miles in circumference; after which it began to diminish in +size by the action of the waves. Towards the end of October the island +was levelled nearly to the surface of the sea. + +Naval officers and foreign ministers alike took an absorbing interest +in this new island. The strong national thirst for territory manifested +itself and eager mariners waited only till the new land should be cool +enough to set foot on to strive who should be first to plant there +his country's flag. Names in abundance were given it by successive +observers,--Nerita, Sciacca, Fernandina, Julia, Hotham, Corrao, and +Graham. The last holds good in English speech, and as Graham's Island +it is known in books to-day, though the sea took back what it had given, +leaving but a shoal of cinders and sand. + +The Bay of Santorin, in the island of that name, which lies immediately +to the north of Crete, has long been noted for its submarine volcanoes. +According to one account, indeed, the whole island was at a remote +period raised from the bottom of the sea; but this is questionable. It +is, with more reason, supposed that the bay is the site of an ancient +crater, which was situated on the summit of a volcanic cone that +subsequently fell in. Certain it is that islands have from time to time +been thrown up by volcanic forces from the bottom of the sea within this +bay, and that some of them have remained, while others have sunk again. + + +HOW AN ISLAND GREW + + +Of the existing islands, some were thrown up shortly before the +beginning of the Christian era; in particular, one called the Great +Cammeni, which, however, received a considerable accession to its size +by a fresh eruption in A. D. 726. The islet nearest Santorin was raised +in 1573, and was named the Little Cammeni; and in 1707 there was added, +between the other two, a third, which is now called the Black Island. +This made its appearance above water on the 23rd of May, 1707, and was +first mistaken for a wreck; but some sailors, who landed on it, found +it to be a mass of rock; consisting of a very white soft stone, to which +were adhering quantities of fresh oysters. While they were collecting +these, a violent shaking of the ground scared them away. + +During several weeks the island gradually increased in volume; but in +July, at a distance of about sixty paces from the new islet, there was +thrown up a chain of black calcined rocks, followed by volumes of thick +black smoke, having a sulphurous smell. A few days thereafter the water +all around the spot became hot, and many dead fishes were thrown up. +Then, with loud subterraneous noises, flames arose, and fresh quantities +of stones and other substances were ejected, until the chain of black +rocks became united to the first islet that had appeared. This eruption +continued for a long time, there being thrown out quantities of ashes +and pumice, which covered the island of Santorin and the surface of the +sea--some being drifted to the coasts of Asia Minor and the Dardanelles. +The activity of this miniature volcano was prolonged, with greater or +less energy, for about ten years. + +In 1866 similar phenomena took place in the Bay of Santorin, beginning +with underground sounds and slight shocks of earthquake, which were +followed by the appearance of flames on the surface of the sea. Soon +after there arose, out of a dense smoke, a small islet, which gradually +increased until in a week's time it was 60 feet high, 200 long and 90 +wide. The people of Santorin named it "George," in honor of the King of +Greece. In another week it joined and became continuous with the Little +Cammeni. The detonations increased in loudness, and large quantities of +incandescent stones were thrown up from the crater. + +About the same time, at the distance of nearly 150 feet from the coast, +to the westward of a point called Cape Phlego, there rose from the sea +another island, to which was given the name of Aphroessa. It sank and +reappeared several times before it established itself above water. The +detonations and ejection of incandescent lava and stones continued at +intervals during three weeks. From the crater of the islet George, which +attained a height of 150 feet, some stones several cubic yards in bulk +were projected to a great distance. One of them falling on board of a +merchant vessel, killed the captain and set fire to the ship. + +By the 10th of March the eruptions had partially subsided, but were then +renewed, and a third island, which was named Reka, rose alongside of +Aphroessa. They were at first separated by a channel sixty feet deep; +but in three days this was filled up, and the two islets became united. + +Reference may properly be made here to Monte Nuovo and Jorullo, not that +they appertain to the present subject, but that they form examples of +the action of similar forces, in the one instance exerted on a lake +bottom, in the other on dry land, each yielding permanent volcanic +elevations in every respect analogous to those which rise as islands +from the bottom of the sea. + + +IN THE ICELANDIC SEAS + + +Off the coast of Iceland islands have appeared during several of +the volcanic eruptions which that remote dependency of Denmark has +manifested, and at various periods in Iceland's history the sea has been +covered with pumice and other debris, which tell their own tale of what +has been going on, without being in sufficient quantity to reach the +surface in the form of an island mass. The sea off Reykjanes--Smoky +Cape, as the name means--has been a frequent scene of these submarine +eruptions. In 1240, during what the Icelandic historians describe as +the eighth outburst, a number of islets were formed, though most of them +subsequently disappeared, only to have their places occupied by others +born at a later date. In 1422 high rocks of considerable circumference +appeared. In 1783, about a month before the eruption of Skaptar Jokull, +a volcanic island named Nyoe, from which fire and smoke issued, was +built up. But in time it vanished under the waves, all that remains +of it to-day being a reef from five to thirty-five fathoms below the +sea-level. In 1830, after several long-continued eruptions of the usual +character, another isle arose; while at the same time the skerries known +as the Geirfuglaska disappeared, and with them vanished the great auks, +or gare-fowls--birds now extinct--which up to that time had bred on +them. At all events, though the auks could not well have been drowned, +no traces of them were seen after the date mentioned. In July, 1884, an +island again appeared about ten miles off Reykjanes; but it is already +beginning to diminish in size, and may soon disappear. + + +OFF THE COAST OF ALASKA + + +Elsewhere in the region of the northern seas there are other instances +of the influence of the submarine forces in raising up and lowering +land. The coast of Alaska is a region of intense volcanic action. In +1795, during a period of volcanic activity in the craters of Makushina, +on Unalaska, and in others on Umnak Island, a volume of smoke was seen +to rise out of the sea about 42 miles to the north of Unalaska, and +the next year it was followed by a heap of cindery material, from which +arose flame and volcanic matter, the glow being visible over a radius +of ten miles. In four years the island grew into a large cone, 3000 feet +above the sea-level, and two or three miles in circumference. Two years +later it was still so hot that when some hunters landed on it they found +the soil too warm for walking. It was named Ionna Bogoslova (St. John +the Theologian), by the Russians, Agashagok by the Aleuts, and is now +known to the whites of that region as Bogosloff. Mr. Dall believes +that it occupies the site of some rocks that existed there as long as +tradition extends. + +There were additions to the cone up to the year 1823, when it became so +quiescent as to be the favorite haunt of seals and sea-fowls, and, +when the weather was favorable, was visited by native egg-hunters +from Unalaska. During the summer of 1883 Bogosloff was again seen +in eruption, as it was thought. However, on closely examining the +neighborhood, it was found that the old island was undisturbed, but that +there had been a fresh eruption, which had resulted in the extension of +Bogosloff by the appearance of a cone and crater (Hague Volcano), 357 +feet high, connected with the parent island by a low sand-spit, and +situated in a spot where, the year before, the lead showed 800 fathoms +of water. At the same time Augustin and two other previously quiet +islands on the peninsula of Alaska began simultaneously to emit smoke, +dust and ashes, while a reef running westward and formerly submerged +became elevated to the sea surface. Other islands, of origin exactly +similar to Bogosloff and those mentioned, are to be found in this +region, notably Koniugi and Kasatochi, in the western Aleutians, +and Pinnacle Island, near St. Matthew Island. Indeed, the volcano of +Kliutchevsk, which rises to a height of over 15,000 feet, is really a +volcanic island. + +A permanent addition was made to the Aleutian group of Islands by the +action of a submarine volcano in 1806. This new island has the form of +a volcanic peak, with several subsidiary cones. It is four geographical +miles in circumference. In 1814 another arose out of the sea in the same +archipelago, the cone of which attained a height of 3,000 feet; but at +the end of a year it lost a portion of this elevation. + +In 1856, in the sea in the same neighborhood, Captain Newell, of the +whaling bark Alice Fraser, witnessed a submarine eruption, which was +also seen by the crews of several other vessels. There was no island +formed on this occasion, but large jets of water were thrown up, and the +sea was greatly agitated all around. Then followed volcanic smoke, and +quantities of stones, ashes, and pumice; the two latter being scattered +over the surface of the sea to a great distance. Loud thundering reports +accompanied this eruption, and all the ships in the neighborhood felt +concussions like those produced by an earthquake. These phenomena seem +to have ended in the formation of some great submarine chasm, into which +the waters rushed with extreme violence and a terrific roar. + +Occurrences similar to this last have been several times observed in +a tract of open sea in the Atlantic, about half a degree south of the +equator, and between 20 and 22 degrees of west longitude. Although +quantities of volcanic dross have been from time to time thrown up to +the surface in this region, no island has yet made its appearance above +water. + +The events here described repeat on a far smaller scale similar ones +which have occurred in remote ages in many parts of the ocean and left +great island masses as the permanent effects of their work. We may +instance the Hawaiian group, which is wholly of volcanic origin, with +the exception of its minor coral additions, and represents a stupendous +activity of underground agencies beneath the domain of Father Neptune. + +In part, as we have said elsewhere in this work, all oceanic islands, +remote from those in the shoal bordering waters of the continents, have +been of volcanic or coral formation, or more often a combination of the +two. No sooner does an island mass appear above or near the surface of +tropical waters than the minute coral animals--effective only by their +myriads--begin their labors, building fringes of coral rock around +the cindery heaps lifted from the ocean floor. The atolls of the +Pacific--circular or oval rings of coral with lagunes of sea-water +within--have long been thought to be built on the rims of submarine +volcanoes, rising to within a few hundred feet of the surface, much +as coral reefs around actual islands. If the volcanic mass should +subsequently subside, as it is likely to do, the minute ocean builders +will continue their work--unless the subsidence be too rapid for their +powers of production--and in this way ring-like islands of coral may +in time rise from great depths of sea, their basis being the volcanic +island which has sunk from near the surface far toward old ocean's +primal floor. + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +Mud Volcanoes, Geysers, and Hot Springs. + + +Our usual impression of a volcano is indicated in the title of "burning +mountain," so often employed, a great fire-spouting cone of volcanic +debris, from which steam, lava, rock-masses, cinder-like fragments, and +dust, often of extreme fineness, are flung high into the air or flow +in river-like torrents of molten rock. This, no doubt, applies in the +majority of cases, but the volcanic forces do not confine themselves to +these magnificent displays of energy, nor are their products limited to +those above specified. We have seen that mud is a not uncommon product, +due to the mingling of water with volcanic dust, while water alone is +occasionally emitted, of which we have a marked instance in the Volcan +de Agua, of Guatemala, already mentioned. As regards mud flows, we may +specially instance the first outflow from Mont Pelee, that by which the +Guerin sugar works were overwhelmed. + +The imprisoned forces of the earth have still other modes of +manifestation. A very frequent one of these, and the most destructive to +human life of them all, is the earthquake. + +Minor manifestations of volcanic action may be seen in the geyser and +the hot spring, the latter the most widely disseminated of all the +resultant effects of the heated condition of the earth's interior. It +is these displays of subterranean energy, differing from those usually +termed volcanic, yet due to the same general causes, that we have next +to consider. And it may be premised that their manifestations, while, +except in the case of the earthquake, less violent, are no less +interesting, especially as the minor displays are free from that peril +to human life which renders the major ones so terrible. + +While the largest volcanoes at times pour out rivers of liquid mud, +there are volcanoes from which nothing is ever ejected but mud and +water, the latter being generally salt. From this circumstance they +are sometimes called salses, but they are more generally termed +mud-volcanoes. Some varieties of them throw out little else than gases +of different sorts, and these are called air-volcanoes. + + +THE GREAT MUD VOLCANO OF SICILY + + +One of the best known mud-volcanoes is at Macaluba, near Girgenti, in +Sicily. It consists of several conical mounds, varying from time to time +in their form and height, which ranges from eight to thirty feet. From +orifices on the tops of these mounds there are thrown out sometimes jets +of warmish water and mud mixed with bitumen, sometimes bubbles of +gas, chiefly carbonic acid and carburetted hydrogen, occasionally pure +nitrogen. The mud ejected has often a strong sulphurous smell. The jets +in general ascend only to a moderate height; but occasionally they are +thrown up with great violence, attaining a height of about 200 feet. +In 1777 there was ejected an immense column, consisting of mud strongly +impregnated with sulphur and mixed with naphtha and stones, accompanied +also by quantities of sulphurous vapors. This mud-volcano is known to +have been in action for fifteen centuries. + +Very recently a small mud-volcano has been formed on the flanks of Mount +Etna. It began with the throwing up of jets of boiling water, mixed with +petroleum and mud, great quantities of gas bubbling up at the same time. +In several of the valleys of Iceland there are similar phenomena, the +boiling water and mud being thrown up in jets to the height of fifteen +feet and upwards, the mud accumulating around the orifices whence the +jets arise. + +A mud-volcano named Korabetoff, in the Crimea, presents phenomena more +akin to those of the igneous volcanoes of South America. There was an +eruption from this mountain on the 6th of August, 1853. It began by +throwing up from the summit a column of fire and smoke, which ascended +to a great height. This continued for five or six minutes, and was +followed at short intervals by two similar eruptions. There was then +ejected with a hissing noise a quantity of black fetid mud, which was so +hot as to scorch the grass on the edges of the stream. The mud continued +to pour out for three hours, covering a wide space at the mountain's +base. The mud-volcanoes on the coast of Beloochistan are very numerous, +and extend over an area of nearly a thousand square miles. Their action +resembles that at Macaluba. + + +THE MUD VOLCANO OF JAVA + + +There is a mud volcano in Java which is of interest as somewhat +resembling the geyser in its mode of operation and apparently due to +similar agencies. It is thus described by Dr. Horsfield:-- + +"On approaching it from a distance, it is first discovered by a large +volume of smoke, rising and disappearing at intervals of a few seconds, +resembling the vapors rising from a violent surf. A loud noise is heard, +like that of distant thunder. Having advanced so near that the vision +was no longer impeded by the smoke, a large hemispherical mass was +observed, consisting of black earth mixed with water, about sixteen +feet in diameter, rising to the height of twenty or thirty feet in +a perfectly regular manner, and as if it were pushed up by a force +beneath, which suddenly exploded with a loud noise, and scattered about +a volume of black mud in every direction. After an interval of two or +three, or sometimes four or five seconds, the hemispherical body of mud +rose and exploded again. In the manner stated this volcanic ebullition +goes on without interruption, throwing up a globular body of mud, and +dispersing it with violence through the neighboring plain. The spot +where the ebullition occurs is nearly circular, and perfectly level. It +is covered only with the earthy particles, impregnated with salt water, +which are thrown up from below. The circumference may be estimated at +about half an English mile. In order to conduct the salt water to the +circumference, small passages or gutters are made in the loose muddy +earth, which lead to the borders, where it is collected in holes dug in +the ground for the purpose of evaporation." + +The mud has a strong, pungent, sulphurous smell, resembling that of +mineral oil, and is hotter than the surrounding atmosphere. During the +rainy season the explosions increase in violence. + +There are submarine mud volcanoes as well as those of igneous kind. In +1814 one of this character broke out in the Sea of Azof, beginning with +flame and black smoke, accompanied by earth and stones, which were flung +to a great height. Ten of these explosions occurred, and, after a period +of rest, others were heard during the night. The next morning there +was visible above the water an island of mud some ten feet high. A very +similar occurrence took place in 1827, near Baku, in the Caspian sea. +This began with a flaming display and the ejection of great fragments of +rock. An eruption of mud succeeded. A set of small volcanoes discovered +by Humboldt in Turbaco, in South America, confined their emissions +almost wholly to gases, chiefly nitrogen. + +There is a close connection in character between mud volcanoes and +those intermittent boiling springs named geysers. A good many of the mud +volcanoes throw out jets of boiling water along with the mud; but in +the case of the geysers, the boiling water is ejected alone, without +any visible impregnation, though some mineral in solution, as silica, +carbonate of lime, or sulphur, is usually present. + + +THE GEYSER IS A WATER VOLCANO + + +The phenomenon of the geyser serves in a measure to support the theory +that steam is an important agent in volcanic action. A geyser, in fact, +may be designated as a water volcano, since it throws up water only. It +comprises a cone or mound, usually only a few feet high. In the middle +of this is a crater-like opening with a passage leading down into the +earth. As in the case of the volcano, the geyser cone is built up by its +own action. In the boiling water which is ejected there is dissolved a +certain amount of silica. As the water falls and cools this mineral is +deposited, gradually building up a cup-like elevation. The basin of the +geyser is generally full of clear water, with a little steam rising +from its surface; but at intervals an eruption takes place, sometimes at +regular periods, but more often at irregular intervals. + +Among the largest and best known geysers in the world are those of +Iceland, chief among them being the Great Geyser. Silica is the +mineral with which the waters of this fountain are impregnated, and +the substance which they deposit, as they slowly evaporate, is named +siliceous sinter. Of this material is composed the mound, six or seven +feet high, on which the spring is situated. On the top of the mound is +a large oval basin, about three feet in depth, measuring in its larger +diameter about fifty-six, and in its shorter about forty-six feet. The +centre of this basin is occupied by a circular well about ten feet in +diameter, and between seventy and eighty feet deep. + +Out of the central well springs a jet of boiling water, at intervals of +six or seven hours. When the fountain is at rest, both the basin and the +well appear quite empty, and no steam is seen. But on the approach of +the moment for action, the water rises in the well, till it flows over +into the basin. Then loud subterranean explosions are heard, and the +ground all round is violently shaken. + +Instantly, and with immense force, a steaming jet of boiling water, of +the full width of the well, springs up and ascends to a great height +in the air. The top of this large column of water is enveloped in vast +clouds of steam, which diffuse themselves through the air, rendering it +misty. These jets succeed each other with great rapidity to the number +of sixteen or eighteen, the period of action of the fountain being about +five minutes. The last of the jets generally ascends to the greatest +height, usually to about 100, but sometimes to 150 feet; on one occasion +it rose to the great height of 212 feet. Having ejected this great +column of water, the action ceases, and the water that had filled the +basin sinks down into the well. There it remains till the time for the +next eruption, when the same phenomena are repeated. It has been found +that, by throwing large stones into the well, the period of the eruption +may be hastened, while the loudness of the explosions and the violence +of the fountain effect are increased, the stones being at the same time +ejected with great force. + + +ERUPTION CAN BE INDUCED BY ARTIFICIAL MEANS + + +Geysers are found all over the island, presenting various peculiarities. +In the case of one of the smaller ones, which is called Strokr, or the +Churn, an eruption can be induced by artificial means. A barrow-load of +sods is thrown into the crater of the geyser, with the effect of causing +an eruption. The sensitiveness of Strokr is due to its peculiar form. +An observer states that, "The bore is eight feet in diameter at the +top, and forty-four feet deep. Below twenty-seven feet it contracts to +nineteen inches, so that the turf thrown in completely chokes it. Steam +collects below; a foaming scum covers the surface of the water, and in +a quarter of an hour it surges up the pipe. The fountain then begins +playing, sending its bundles of jets rather higher than those of +the Great Geyser, flinging up the clods of turf which have been its +obstruction like a number of rockets. This magnificent display continues +for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. The erupted water flows +back into the pipe from the curved sides of the bowl. This occasions a +succession of bursts, the last expiring effort, very generally, being +the most magnificent. Strokr gives no warning thumps, like the Great +Geyser, and there is not the same roaring of steam accompanying the +outbreak of the water." + +The same author thus describes an eruption of the Great Geyser, which +occurred about two o'clock in the morning: "A violent concussion of the +ground brought me and my companions to our feet. We rushed out of the +tent in every condition of dishabille and were in time to see Geyser put +forth his full strength. Five strokes underground were the signal, then +an overflow, wetting every side of the mound. Presently a dome of +water rose in the centre of the basin and fell again, immediately to +be followed by a fresh bell, which sprang into the air fully forty feet +high, accompanied by a roaring burst of steam. Instantly the fountain +began to play with the utmost violence, a column rushing up to the +height of ninety or one hundred feet against the gray night sky, with +mighty volumes of white steam cloud rolling after it and swept off by +the breeze to fall in torrents of hot rain. Jets and lines of water tore +their way through the clouds, or leaped high above its domed mass. The +earth trembled and throbbed during the explosion, then the column sank, +started up again, dropped once more, and seemed to be sucked back into +the earth. We ran to the basin, which was left dry, and looked down the +bore at the water, which was bubbling at the depth of six feet." + +In the case of Strokr, the cause of this eruption is not difficult to +understand. The narrow part of the channel is choked up by the turf and +the steam, and prevented from escaping. Finally it gains such force as +to drive out the obstacle with a violent explosion, just as a bottle +of fermenting liquor may blow out the cork and discharge some of its +contents. + +Geysers are somewhat abundant phenomena, existing in many parts of the +earth, while striking examples of them are found in the widely separated +regions of Iceland, New Zealand, Japan and the western United States. +In the volcanic region of New Zealand geysers and their associated hot +springs are abundant. It was to their action that we owed the famous +white and pink terraces and the warm lake of Rotomahana which were +ruined by the destructive eruption of Mount Tarawera, already described. + + +GEYSERS OF THE UNITED STATES + + +The United States is abundantly supplied with hot springs, but geysers, +outside of the Yellowstone region, are found only in California and +Nevada. Those of California exist chiefly in Napa Valley, north of San +Francisco, in a canon or defile. Their waters are impregnated not with +silica, but with sulphur, and they thus approach more nearly in their +character to mud-volcanoes, whose ejections are, in like manner, much +impregnated with that substance. They are also, like them, collected in +groups, there being no less than one hundred openings within a space of +flat ground a mile square. Owing to their number and proximity, their +individual energy is nothing like so violent as that of the geysers of +Iceland. Their jets seldom rise higher than 20 or 30 feet; but so great +a number playing within so confined a space produces an imposing effect. +The jets of boiling water issue with a loud noise from little conical +mounds, around which the ground is merely a crust of sulphur. When this +crust is penetrated, the boiling water may be seen underneath. The rocks +in the neighborhood of these fountains are all corroded by the action of +the sulphurous vapors. Nevertheless, within a distance of not more than +50 feet from them, trees grow without injury to their health. + +Few of these fountains, however, are regular geysers, most of them +discharging only steam. From the Steamboat Geyser this ascends to a +height of from 50 to 100 feet, with a roar like that of the escape +from a steamboat boiler. Associated with the geysers are numerous hot +springs, some clear, some turbid, and variously impregnated with +iron, sulphur or alum. In Nevada the Steamboat Springs, as they are +designated, exist in Washoe Valley, east of the Virginian range. They +come nearer in character to the Yellowstone geysers, their waters +depositing true geyserite, or silicious concretions. The Volcano +Springs, in Lauder County, are also true geysers, though of small +importance. The ground here is so thickly perforated by holes from which +steam escapes that it looks like a cullender. + + +THE YELLOWSTONE GEYSERS + + +The most remarkable geyser country in the world, alike for the size and +the number of its spouting fountains, is the Yellowstone region in the +northwest part of the Territory of Wyoming, in the United States, which, +by a special act of Congress, has been reserved as the Yellowstone +National Park, exempt from settlement, purchase or preemption. Here +nearly every form of geyser and unintermittent hot spring occurs, +with deposits of various kinds, silicious, calcareous, etc. Of the +hot springs, Dr. Peale enumerates 2,195, and considers that within the +limits of the park--which is about 54 miles by 62 miles, and includes +3,312 square miles--as many as 3,000 actually exist. The same geologist +notes the existence of 71 geysers in the area mentioned, though some +of the number are only inferred to be spouting springs from the form of +their basins and the character of the surrounding deposits. Of this +vast collection of still and eruptive springs, between which there seems +every gradation, those which do not send water into the air are, owing +to the magnificent cascades which they form, often quite as remarkable +as those which take the shape of geysers. The more striking of the +latter may, however, be briefly mentioned. + +In the Gibbon Basin is a geyser of late origin. In 1878 this consisted +of two steam holes, roaring on the side of a hill, that looked as if +they had recently burst through the surface; and the gully leading +towards the ravine was at that date filled with sand, which appeared to +have been poured out during an eruption. Dead trees stood on the line of +this sand floor, and others, with their bark still remaining, and +even with their foliage not lost, were uprooted hard by, everything +indicating that the "steamboat vent," as it was called, was of recent +formation. In 1875 it had no existence, but in 1879 the spouting +spring--which first opened, it is believed, on the 11th of August in the +preceding year--had "settled down to business as a very powerful flowing +geyser," with a double period; one eruption occurring every half +hour, and projecting water to the height of 30 feet; the main eruption +occurring every six or seven days, with long continued action, and a +column of nearly 100 feet. + +The New Geyser in the same basin is also of quite recent origin. +It consists of two fissures in the rock, in which the water boils +vigorously. But there is no mound, and the rocks of the fissure are just +beginning to get a coating of the silicious geyserite deposited from the +water, so that it cannot long have been spouting. Again, in the Grotto +Geyser--in the Upper Geyser Basin of Fire Hole River--the main or +larger crater is hollowed into fantastic arches, beneath which are +the grotto-like cavities from which it is named, which act as lateral +orifices for the escape of water during an eruption. It plays several +times in the course of the twenty-four hours, and sends a column of +water sixty feet high, the eruption lasting an hour. As yet, however, +the force of the water has not been sufficient, or of sufficiently long +duration, to break through the arches covering the basin or crater. +The Excelsior--claimed to be the largest of its order, which sent water +nearly 300 feet into the air at intervals of about five hours, and of +such volume as to wash away bridges over small streams below--was not, +until comparatively recent years, known as a specially powerful geyser. +But if it had for a time waned in importance, its immense crater, 330 +feet in length and 200 feet at the widest part, shows that at a still +earlier date it was a gigantic fountain. In this deep pit, when the +breeze wafted aside the clouds of steam constantly arising from its +surface, the water could be seen seething 15 or 20 feet below the +surrounding level. Yet into the cauldron of boiling water a little +stream of cold water, from the melting snow of the uplands, ran +unceasingly. Since 1888 this great geyser has been inactive. + +The Castle Geyser is so named on account of the fancied resemblance +which its mound of white and grey deposit presents to the ruins of a +feudal keep, the crater itself being placed on a cone or turret, which +has a somewhat imposing appearance compared with the other geysers in +the neighborhood. It throws a column usually about fifty or sixty feet +high, at intervals of two or three hours, but sometimes the discharge +shoots up much higher. + +The Giant, in the Upper Geyser Basin, has a peculiar crater, which +has been likened to the stump of a hollow sycamore tree of gigantic +proportions, whose top has been wrenched off by a storm. This curious +cup is broken down at one side, as though it had been torn away during +an eruption of more than ordinary violence, and on this side the visitor +is able to look into the crater, if he can contrive to avoid the jets +which are constantly spouted from it. The periods of rest which it takes +are varied, an eruption often not occurring for several days at a time; +yet when it breaks out it continues playing for more than three hours, +with a volume of water reaching a height of from 130 to 140 feet. In the +interval little spouts are constantly in progress. Mr. Stanley saw one +eruption which he calculated to have shot a column of water to the +height of more than 200 feet. At first it seemed as though the geyser +was only making a feint, the discharge which preceded the great one +being merely repeated several times, followed by a cessation both of +the rumbling noises and of the ejection of water. But soon, after a +premonitory cloud of steam, the geyser began to work in earnest, +the column discharged rising higher and higher, until it reached the +altitude mentioned. + +"At first it appeared to labor in raising the immense volume, which +seemed loath to start on its heavenward tour; but it was with perfect +ease that the stupendous column was held to its place, the water +breaking into jets and returning in glittering showers to the basin. +The steam ascended in dense volumes for thousands of feet, when it +was freighted on the wings of the winds and borne away in clouds. The +fearful rumble and confusion attending it were as the sound of distant +artillery, the rushing of many horses to battle, or the roar of a +fearful tornado. It commenced to act at 2 P. M., and continued for an +hour and a half, the latter part of which it emitted little else than +steam, rushing upward from its chambers below, of which, if controlled, +there was enough to run an engine of wonderful power. The waving to and +fro of such a gigantic fountain, when the column is at its height, + +'Tinselled o'er in robes of varying hues,' + +and glistening in the bright sunlight, which adorns it with the glowing +colors of many a gorgeous rainbow, affords a spectacle so wonderful +and grandly magnificent, so overwhelming to the mind, that the ablest +attempt at description gives the reader who has never witnessed such a +display but a feeble idea of its glory." + + +A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEYSER AT WORK + + +The only other geysers in this remarkable geyserland which we can spare +room to notice are those known as the Giantess, the Beehive, and the +Grand. The Giantess sends a column of water to the height of 250 feet. +An eruption is usually divided into three periods--two preliminary +efforts and a final one, divided from each other by intervals of between +one and two hours, while the intervals of discharge are very long. +Sometimes it does not play for several weeks. The Beehive, which is 400 +feet from the Giantess, gets its name from the peculiar beehive-like +cone which it has formed. The eruption is also almost unique. It is +heralded by a slight escape of steam, which is followed by a column of +steam and water, shooting to the height of over 200 feet. The column +is somewhat fan-shaped, but it does not fall in rain, the spray being +evaporated and carried off as steam--if, indeed, there is not more steam +than water in the column. The duration of the discharge is between four +and five minutes, and the interval between two eruptions from twenty-one +to twenty-five hours. + +The Grand is one of the most important in the Upper Geyser basin. Yet, +unlike the Grotto, the Giant, or the Old Faithful,--so called from its +frequent and regular eruptions--it has no raised cone or crater, and a +much less cavernous bowl than the Giantess and other geysers. The column +discharged ascends to the height of from eighty to two hundred feet, and +the eruptions last from fifteen minutes to three-quarters of an hour, +with intervals on an average of from seven to twenty hours. This +fountain is apparently very irregular in its action, though it is just +possible that when the Yellowstone geysers have been more consecutively +studied, it will be found that these seeming irregularities depend on +the varying supplies of water at different times of the year. + + +THE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS + + +The marvellous phenomena of the Yellowstone region are not confined +to geyser action, hot springs of steady flow being, as above stated, +exceedingly numerous. Of these the most striking are those known as the +Mammoth Hot Springs, whose waters find their way through underground +passages, finally flowing from an opening as the "Boiling River," which +empties into the Gardiner River. + +These springs are marvels of beauty. Their terraced bowls, adorned with +delicate fret-work, are among the finest specimens of Nature's handiwork +in the world, and the colored waters themselves are startling in their +brilliancy. Red, pink, black, canary, green, saffron, blue, chocolate, +and all their intermediate gradations are found here in exquisite +harmony. The springs rise in terraces of various heights and widths, +having intermingled with their delicate shades chalk-like cliffs, soft +and crumbly, these latter being the remains of springs from which the +life and beauty have departed. The great spring is the largest in the +country, the water flowing through three openings into a basin forty +feet long by twenty-five feet wide. From this the hot mineral waters +drip over into lower basins, of gracefully curved and scalloped outline, +the minerals deposited on the lips of the basin forming stalagmites of +variegated hue, yielding a brilliant and beautiful effect. The terraced +basins bear a close resemblance to the former New Zealand pink and white +terraces, and since the annihilation of the latter are the most charming +examples in existence of this rare form of Nature's artistic handiwork. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The San Francisco Calamity, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY *** + +***** This file should be named 1560.txt or 1560.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/6/1560/ + +Produced by Donald Lainson + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.04.29.93*END* + + + + +This etext was prepared by Donald Lainson, charlie@idirect.com. + + + + + +THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + + +A Complete and Accurate Account of the Fearful Disaster which +Visited the Great City and the Pacific Coast, the Reign of Panic +and Lawlessness, the Plight of 300,000 Homeless People and the +World-wide Rush to the Rescue. + +TOLD BY EYE WITNESSES + +INCLUDING GRAPHIC AND RELIABLE ACCOUNTS OF ALL GREAT EARTHQUAKES +AND VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS IN THE WORLD'S HISTORY, AND SCIENTIFIC +EXPLANATIONS OF THEIR CAUSES. + +EDITED BY + +CHARLES MORRIS, LL. D. + + + + +PREFACE + + +Earthquake and famine, fire and sudden death--these are the +destroyers that men fear when they come singly; but upon the +unhappy people of California they came together, a hideous +quartette, to slay human beings, to blot from existence the wealth +that represented prolonged and strenuous effort, to bring hunger +and speechless misery to three hundred thousand homeless and +terror-stricken people. + +The full measure of the catastrophe can probably never be taken. +The summary cannot be made amid the panic, the confusion, the +removal of ancient landmarks, the complete subversion of the +ordinary machinery of society. When chaos comes, as it did in San +Francisco, and all the channels of familiar life are closed, and +human anguish grows to be intolerable, compilation of statistics is +impossible, even if it were not repugnant to the feelings. And +when order is once more restored, after the lapse of many weeks, +months and perhaps years, the details of the calamity have merged +into one undecipherable mass of misery which defies the analyst and +the historian. It is the purpose of this book faithfully to record +the story of these awful days when years were lived in a moment and +to preserve an accurate chronicle of them, not only for the people +whose hearts yearn in sympathy to-day, but for their posterity. + +Other frightful catastrophes the world has known. The earthquake +which dropped Lisbon into the sea in 1755, and in a moment +swallowed up twenty-five thousand people, was perhaps more awful +than the convulsion which has brought woe to San Francisco. When +Krakatoa Mountain, in the Straits of Sunda, in 1883, split asunder +and poured across the land a mighty wave, in which thirty-six +thousand human beings perished, the results also were more +terrible. + +The whirlwind of fire which consumed St. Pierre, in the Island of +Martinique, and the devastation wrought by Vesuvius a few days +previous to that at San Francisco, need not be used for comparison +with the latter tragedy, but they may be referred to, that we may +recall the fact that this land of ours is not the only one which +has suffered. + +But since the western hemisphere was discovered there has been in +this quarter of the globe no violence of natural forces at all +comparable in destructive fury with that which was manifested upon +the Pacific coast. The only other calamity at all equalling it, or +surpassing it, was the Civil War, and that was the work of the evil +passions of man inciting him to slay his brother, while Nature +would have had him live in peace. + +The earthquake in San Francisco, which crumbled strong buildings as +if they were made of paper, would have been terrible enough; but +afterward came the horror of fire and of imprisoned men and women +burned alive, and now to it was added the suffering of multitudes +from hunger and exposure. + +Public attention is fixed on the great city; but smaller cities had +their days and nights of destruction, horror and misery. Some were +almost destroyed. Others were partly ruined, and beyond their +borders, over a wide area, the trembling of the earth toppled +houses, annihilated property and transformed riches into poverty. +The cost in life can be reckoned. The money loss will never be +computed, for the appraised value of the wrecked property conveys +no notion of the consequences of the almost complete paralysis, for +a time, of the commercial operations by means of which men and +women earn their bread. + +When the weakness and the folly and the sin of men bring woe upon +other men, there are plenty of texts for the preacher and no +scarcity of earnest preachers. But here is a vast and awful +catastrophe that befell from an act of Nature apparently no more +extraordinary than the shrinkage of hot metal in the process of +cooling. The consequences are terrifying in this case because they +involve the habitations of half a million people; but, no doubt, +the process goes on somewhere within the earth almost continuously, +and it no more involves the theory of malignant Nature than that of +an angry God. + +If we contemplate it, possibly we may be helped to a profitable +estimate of our own relative insignificance. We think, with some +notion of our importance, of the thousand million men who live upon +the earth; but they are a mere handful of animate atoms in +comparison with the surface, to say nothing of the solid contents, +of the globe itself. + +We are fond of boasting in this latter day of man's marvelous +success in subduing the forces of Nature; and, while we are in the +midst of exultation over our victories, Nature tumbles the rocks +about somewhere within the bowels of the earth, and we have to +learn the old lesson that our triumphs have not penetrated farther +than to the very outermost rim of the realms of Nature. + +A few weak, almost helpless, creatures, we millions of men stand +upon the deck of a great ship, which goes rolling through space +that is itself incomprehensible, and usually we are so busy with +our paltry ambitions, our transgressions, our righteous labors, our +prides and hopes and entanglements that we forget where we are and +what is our destiny. A direct interposition from a Superior Power, +even if it be hurtful to the body, might be required to persuade us +to stop and consider and take anew our bearings, so that we may +comprehend in some larger degree our precise relations to things. +The wisest men have been the most ready to recognize the +beneficence of the discipline of affliction. If there were no +sorrow, we should be likely to find the school of life +unprofitable. + +For one thing, the school wherein sorrow is a part of the +discipline is that in which is developed human sympathy, one of the +finest and most ennobling manifestations of the Love which is, in +its essence, divine. In human life there is much that is ignoble, +and the race has almost contemptible weakness and insignificance in +comparison with the physical forces of the universe. + +But man is superior to all these forces in his possession of the +power of affection; and in almost the lowest and basest of the race +this power, if latent and half lost, may be found and evoked by the +spectacle of the suffering of a fellow-creature. + +The human family looks on with pity while the homeless and hungry +and impoverished Californians endure pangs. Wherever the news +went, by the swift processes of electricity, there men and women, +some of them, perhaps, hardly knowing where California is, were +sorry and willing and eager to help. There are quarrels within the +family sometimes, when nation wars with nation, and all love seems +to have vanished; but the world is, in truth, akin. "God hath made +of one blood all the nations of the earth," and the blood "tells" +when suffering comes. + +THE PUBLISHERS. + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I. + +SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS TERRIFIC EARTHQUAKE + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE DEMON OF FIRE INVADES THE STRICKEN CITY + + +CHAPTER III. + +FIGHTING FLAMES WITH DYNAMITE + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE REIGN OF DESTRUCTION AND DEVASTATION + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE PANIC FLIGHT OF A HOMELESS HOST + + +CHAPTER VI. + +FACING FAMINE AND PRAYING FOR RELIEF + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE FRIGHTFUL LOSS OF LIFE AND WEALTH + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +WONDERFUL RECORD OF THRILLING ESCAPES + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DISASTER SPREADS OVER THE GOLDEN STATE + + +CHAPTER X. + +ALL AMERICA AND CANADA TO THE RESCUE + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE SAN FRANCISCO OF THE PAST + + +CHAPTER XII. + +LIFE IN THE METROPOLIS OF THE PACIFIC + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +PLANS TO REBUILD SAN FRANCISCO + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +THE EARTHQUAKE WAVE FELT AROUND THE WORLD + + +CHAPTER XV. + +VESUVIUS DEVASTATES THE REGION OF NAPLES + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +THE GREAT LISBON AND CALABRIAN EARTHQUAKES + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE CHARLESTON AND OTHER EARTHQUAKES OF THE UNITED STATES + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE VOLCANO AND THE EARTHQUAKE, EARTH'S DEMONS OF DESTRUCTION + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE THEORIES OF VOLCANIC AND EARTHQUAKE ACTION + + +CHAPTER XX. + +THE ACTIVE VOLCANOES OF THE EARTH + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +THE FAMOUS VESUVIUS AND THE DESTRUCTION OF POMPEII + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +ERUPTIONS OF VESUVIUS, ETNA AND STROMBOLI + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +SKAPTER JOKULL AND HECLA, THE GREAT ICELANDIC VOLCANOES + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +VOLCANOES OF THE PHILIPPINES AND OTHER PACIFIC ISLANDS + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +THE WONDERFUL HAWAIIAN CRATERS AND KILAUEA'S LAKE OF FIRE + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +POPOCATEPETL AND OTHER VOLCANOES OF MEXICO AND CENTRAL AMERICA + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +THE TERRIBLE ERUPTION OF KRAKATOA + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +MONT PELEE AND ITS HARVEST OF DEATH IN 1902 + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +ST. VINCENT ISLAND AND MONT SOUFRIERE IN 1812 + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +SUBMARINE VOLCANOES AND THEIR WORK OF ISLAND-BUILDING + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +MUD VOLCANOES, GEYSERS AND HOT SPRINGS + + + +THE SAN FRANCISCO CALAMITY BY EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE + + +CHAPTER I. + +San Francisco and Its Terrific Earthquake. + + +On the splendid Bay of San Francisco, one of the noblest harbors on +the whole vast range of the Pacific Ocean, long has stood, like a +Queen of the West on its seven hills, the beautiful city of San +Francisco, the youngest and in its own way one of the most +beautiful and attractive of the large cities of the United States. +Born less than sixty years ago, it has grown with the healthy +rapidity of a young giant, outvieing many cities of much earlier +origin, until it has won rank as the eighth city of the United +States, and as the unquestioned metropolis of our far Western +States. + +It is on this great and rich city that the dark demon of +destruction has now descended, as it fell on the next younger of +our cities, Chicago, in 1872. It was the rage of the fire-fiend +that desolated the metropolis of the lakes. Upon the Queen City of +the West the twin terrors of earthquake and conflagration have +descended at once, careening through its thronged streets, its +marts of trade, and its abodes alike of poverty and wealth, and +with the red hand of devastation sweeping one of the noblest +centres of human industry and enterprise from the face of the +earth. It is this story of almost irremediable ruin which it is +our unwelcome duty to chronicle. But before entering upon this +sorrowful task some description of the city that has fallen a prey +to two of the earth's chief agents of destruction must be given. + +San Francisco is built on the end of a peninsula or tongue of land +lying between the Pacific Ocean and the broad San Francisco Bay, a +noble body of inland water extending southward for about forty +miles and with a width varying from six to twelve miles. Northward +this splendid body of water is connected with San Pablo Bay, ten +miles long, and the latter with Suisun Bay, eight miles long, the +whole forming a grand range of navigable waters only surpassed by +the great northern inlet of Puget Sound. The Golden Gate, a +channel five miles long, connects this great harbor with the sea, +the whole giving San Francisco the greatest commercial advantages +to be found on the Pacific coast. + + +THE EARLY DAYS OF SAN FRANCISCO. + + +The original site of the city was a grant made by the King of Spain +of four square leagues of land. Congress afterwards confirmed this +grant. It was an uninviting region, with its two lofty hills and +its various lower ones, a barren expanse of shifting sand dunes +extending from their feet. The population in 1830 was about 200 +souls, about equal to that of Chicago at the same date. It was not +much larger in 1848, when California fell into American hands and +the discovery of gold set in train the famous rush of treasure +seekers to that far land. When 1849 dawned the town contained +about 2,000 people. They had increased to 20,000 before the year +ended. The place, with its steep and barren hills and its sandy +stretches, was not inviting, but its ease of access to the sea and +its sheltered harbor were important features, and people settled +there, making it a depot of mining supplies and a point of +departure for the mines. + +The place grew rapidly and has continued to grow. At first a city +of flimsy frame buildings, it became early a prey to the flames, +fire sweeping through it three times in 1850 and taking toll of the +young city to the value of $7,500,000. These conflagrations swept +away most of the wooden houses, and business men began to build +more substantially of brick, stone and iron. Yet to-day, for +climatic reasons, most of the residences continue to be built of +wood. But the slow-burning redwood of the California hillsides is +used instead of the inflammable pine, the result being that since +1850 the loss by fire in the residence section of the city has been +remarkably small. In 1900 the city contained 50,494 frame and only +3,881 stone and brick buildings, though the tendency to use more +durable materials was then growing rapidly. + +Before describing the terrible calamity which fell upon this +beautiful city on that dread morning of April 18, 1906, some +account of the character of the place is very desirable, that +readers may know what San Francisco was before the rage of +earthquake and fire reduced it to what it is to-day. + + +THE CHARACTER OF THE CITY. + + +The site of the city of San Francisco is very uneven, embracing a +series of hills, of which the highest ones, known as the Twin +Peaks, reach to an elevation of 925 feet, and form the crown of an +amphitheatre of lower altitudes. Several of the latter are covered +with handsome residences, and afford a magnificent view of the +surrounding country, with its bordering bay and ocean, and the +noble Golden Gate channel, a river-like passage from ocean to bay +of five miles in length and one in width. This waterway is very +deep except on the bar at its mouth, where the depth of water is +thirty feet. + +Since its early days the growth of the city has been very rapid. +In 1900 it held 342,782 people, and the census estimate made from +figures of the city directory in 1904 gave it then a population of +485,000, probably a considerable exaggeration. In it are mingled +inhabitants from most of the nations of the earth, and it may claim +the unenviable honor of possessing the largest population of +Chinese outside of China itself, the colony numbering over 20,000. + +Of the pioneer San Francisco few traces remain, the old buildings +having nearly all disappeared. Large and costly business houses +and splendid residences have taken their place in the central +portion of the city, marble, granite, terra-cotta, iron and steel +being largely used as building material. The great prevalence of +frame buildings in the residence sections is largely due to the +popular belief that they are safer in a locality subject to +earthquakes, while the frequent occurrence of earth tremors long +restrained the inclination to erect lofty buildings. Not until +1890 was a high structure built, and few skyscrapers had invaded +the city up to its day of ruin. They will probably be introduced +more frequently in the future, recent experience having +demonstrated that they are in considerable measure earthquake +proof. + +The city before the fire contained numerous handsome structures, +including the famous old Palace Hotel, built at a cost of +$3,000,000 and with accommodations for 1,200 guests; the nearly +finished and splendid Fairmount Hotel; the City Hall, with its +lofty dome, on which $7,000,000 is said to have been spent, much of +it, doubtless, political plunder; a costly United States Mint and +Post Office, an Academy of Science, and many churches, colleges, +libraries and other public edifices. The city had 220 miles of +paved streets, 180 miles of electric and 77 of cable railway, 62 +hotels, 16 theatres, 4 large libraries, 5 daily newspapers, etc., +together with 28 public parks. + +Sitting, like Rome of old, on its seven hills, San Francisco has +long been noted for its beautiful site, clasped in, as it is, +between the Pacific Ocean and its own splendid bay, on a peninsula +of some five miles in width. Where this juts into the bay at its +northernmost point rises a great promontory known as Telegraph +Hill, from whose height homeless thousands have recently gazed on +the smoke rising from their ruined homes. In the early days of +golden promise a watchman was stationed on this hill to look out +for coming ships entering the Golden Gate from their long voyage +around the Horn and signal the welcome news to the town below. +From this came its name. + +Cliffs rise on either side of the Golden Gate, and on one is +perched the Cliff House, long a famous hostelry. This stands so +low that in storms the surf is flung over its lower porticos, +though its force is broken by the Seal Rocks. A chief attraction +to this house was to see the seals play on these rocks, their +favorite place of resort. The Cliff House was at first said to +have been swept bodily by the earthquake into the sea, but it +proved to be very little injured, and stands erect in its old +picturesque location. + +In the vicinity of Telegraph Hill are Russian and Nob Hills, the +latter getting its peculiar title from the fact that the wealthy +"nobs," or mining magnates, of bonanza days built their homes on +its summit level. Farther to the east are Mount Olympus and +Strawberry Hill, and beyond these the Twin Peaks, which really +embrace three hills, the third being named Bernal Heights. Farther +to the south and east is Rincan Hill, the last in the half moon +crescent of hills, within which is a spread of flat ground +extending to the bay. Behind the hills on the Pacific side +stretches a vast sweep of sand, at some places level, but often +gathered into great round dunes. Part of this has been transformed +into the beautiful Golden Gate Park, a splendid expanse of green +verdure which has long been one of San Francisco's chief +attractions. + +Beneath the whole of San Francisco is a rock formation, but +everywhere on top of this extends the sand, the gift of the winds. +This is of such a character that a hole dug in the street anywhere, +even if only to the depth of a few feet, must be shored up with +planking or it will fill as fast as it is excavated, the sand +running as dry as the contents of an hour glass. When there is an +earthquake--or a "temblor," to use the Spanish name--it is the rock +foundation that is disturbed, not the sand, which, indeed, serves +to lessen the effect of the earth tremor. + + +THE FOUNDATIONS OF THE CITY. + + +Leaving the region of the hills and descending from their crescent- +shaped expanse, we find a broad extent of low ground, sloping +gently toward the bay. On this low-lying flat was built all of San +Francisco's business houses, all its principal hotels and a large +part of its tenements and poorer dwellings. It was here that the +earthquake was felt most severely and that the fire started which +laid waste the city. + +Rarely has a city been built on such doubtful foundations. The +greater part of the low ground was a bay in 1849, but it has since +been filled in by the drifting sands blown from the ocean side by +the prevailing west winds and by earth dumped into it. Much of +this land was "made ground." Forty-niners still alive say that +when they first saw San Francisco the waters of the bay came up to +Montgomery Street. The Palace Hotel was in Montgomery Street, and +from there to the ferry docks--a long walk for any man--the water +had been driven back by a "filling-in" process. + +This is the district that especially suffered, that south of Market +and east of Montgomery Streets. Nearly all the large buildings in +this section are either built on piles driven into the sand and mud +or were raised upon wooden foundations. It is on such ground as +this that the costly Post Office building was erected, despite the +protests of nearly the entire community, who asserted that the +ground was nothing but a filled-in bog. + +In none of the earthquakes that San Francisco has had was any +serious damage except to houses in this filled-in territory, and to +houses built along the line of some of the many streams which ran +from the hills down to the bay, and which were filled in as the +town grew--for instance, the Grand Opera House was built over the +bed of St. Anne's Creek. A bog, slough and marsh, known as the +Pipeville Slough, was the ground on which the City Hall was built, +and which was originally a burying ground. Sand from the western +shore had blown over and drifted into the marsh and hardened its +surface. + +When the final grading scheme of the city was adopted in 1853, and +work went on, the water front of the city was where Clay Street now +is, between Montgomery and Sansome Streets. The present level area +of San Francisco of about three thousand acres is an average of +nine feet above or below the natural surface of the ground and the +changes made necessitated the transfer of 21,000,000 cubic yards +from hills to hollows. Houses to the number of thousands were +raised or lowered, street floors became subcellars or third stories +and the whole natural face of the ground was altered. + +Through this infirm material all the pipes of the water and sewer +system of San Francisco in its business districts and in most of +the region south of Market street were laid. When the earthquake +came, the filled-in ground shook like the jelly it is. The only +firm and rigid material in its millions of cubic yards of surface +area and depth were the iron pipes. Naturally they broke, as they +would not bend, and San Francisco's water system was therefore +instantly disabled, with the result that the fire became complete +master of the situation and raged uncontrolled for three days and +nights. + +Although the earthquake wrecked the business and residential +portions of the city alike, on the hills the land did not sink. +All "made ground" sank in consequence of the quaking, but on the +high ground the upper parts of the buildings were about the only +portions of the structures wrecked. Most of the damage on the +hills was done by falling chimneys. On Montgomery Street, half a +block from the main office of the Western Union Company, the middle +of the street was cracked and blown up, but during the shocks which +struck the Western Union building only the top stories were +cracked. Similar phenomena were experienced in other localities, +and the bulk of the disaster, so far as the earthquake was +concerned, was confined to the low-lying region above described. + + +THE BANE OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +From the origin of San Francisco the earthquake has been its bane. +During the past fifty years fully 250 shocks have been recorded, +while all California has been subject to them. But frequency +rather than violence of shocks has been the characteristic of the +seismic history of the State, there having been few shocks that +caused serious damage, and none since 1872 that led to loss of +life. + +There was a violent shock in 1856, when the city was only a mining +town of small frame buildings. Several shanties were overthrown +and a few persons killed by falling walls and chimneys. There was +a severe shock also in 1865, in which many buildings were +shattered. Next in violence was the shock of 1872, which cracked +the walls of some of the public buildings and caused a panic. +There was no great loss of life. In April, 1898, just before +midnight, there was a lively shakeup which caused the tall +buildings to shake like the snapping of a whip and drove the +tourists out of the hotels into the streets in their nightclothes. +Three or four old houses fell, and the Benicia Navy Yard, which is +on made ground across the bay, was damaged to the extent of about +$100,000. The last severe shock was in January, 1900, when the St. +Nicholas Hotel was badly damaged. + +These were the heaviest shocks. On the other hand, light shocks, +as above said, have been frequent. Probably the sensible quakes +have averaged three or four a year. These are usually tremblings +lasting from ten seconds to a minute and just heavy enough to wake +light sleepers or to shake dishes about on the shelves. Tourists +and newcomers are generally alarmed by these phenomena, but old +Californians have learned to take them philosophically. To one is +not afraid of them, the sensation of one of these little tremblers +is rather pleasant than otherwise, and the inhabitants grew so +accustomed to them as rarely to let them disturb their equanimity. + +After 1900 the forces beneath the earth seemed to fall asleep. As +it proved, they were only biding their time. The era was at hand +when they were to declare themselves in all their mighty power and +fall upon the devoted city with ruin in their grasp. But all this +lay hidden in the secret casket of time, and the city kept up to +its record as one of the liveliest and in many respects the most +reckless and pleasure-loving on the continent, its people +squandering their money with thoughtless improvidence and enjoying +to the full all the good that life held out to them. + +On the 17th of April, 1906, the city was, as usual, gay, careless, +busy, its people attending to business or pleasure with their +ordinary vim as inclination led them, and not a soul dreaming of +the horrors that lay in wait. They were as heedless of coming +peril and death as the inhabitants of Sodom and Gomorrah before the +rain of fire from heaven descended upon their devoted heads. This +is not to say that they were doomed by God to destruction like +these "cities of the plains." We should more wisely say that the +forces of ruin within the earth take no heed of persons or places. +They come and go as the conditions of nature demand, and if man has +built one of his cities across their destined track, its doom comes +from its situation, not from the moral state of its inhabitants. + + +THE GREAT DISASTER OF 1906. + + +That night the people went, with their wonted equanimity, to their +beds, rich and poor, sick and well alike. Did any of them dream of +disaster in the air? It may be so, for often, as the poet tells +us, "Coming events cast their shadows before." But, forewarned by +dreams or not, doubtless not a soul in the great city was prepared +for the terrible event so near at hand, when, at thirteen minutes +past five o'clock on the dread morning of the 18th, they felt their +beds lifted beneath them as if by a Titan hand, heard the crash of +falling walls and ceilings, and saw everything in their rooms +tossed madly about, while through their windows came the roar of an +awful disaster from the city without. + +It was a matter not of minutes, but of seconds, yet on all that +coast, long the prey of the earthquake, no shock like it had ever +been felt, no such sudden terror awakened, no such terrible loss +occasioned as in those few fearful seconds. Again and again the +trembling of the earth passed by, three quickly repeated shocks, +and the work of the demon of ruin was done. People woke with a +start to find themselves flung from their beds to the floor, many +of them covered with the fragments of broken ceilings, many lost +among the ruins of falling floors and walls, many pinned in +agonizing suffering under the ruins of their houses, which had been +utterly wrecked in those fatal seconds. Many there were, indeed, +who had been flung to quick if not to instant death under their +ruined homes. + +Those seconds of the reign of the elemental forces had turned the +gayest, most careless city on the continent into a wreck which no +words can fitly describe. Those able to move stumbled in wild +panic across the floors of their heaving houses, regardless of +clothing, of treasures, of everything but the mad instinct for +safety, and rushed headlong into the streets, to find that the +earth itself had yielded to the energy of its frightful interior +forces and had in places been torn and rent like the houses +themselves. New terrors assailed the fugitives as fresh tremors +shook the solid ground, some of them strong enough to bring down +shattered walls and chimneys, and bring back much of the mad terror +of the first fearful quake. The heaviest of these came at eight +o'clock. While less forcible than that which had caused the work +of destruction, it added immensely to the panic and dread of the +people and put many of the wanderers to flight, some toward the +ferry, the great mass in the direction of the sand dunes and Golden +Gate Park. + +The spectacle of the entire population of a great city thus roused +suddenly from slumber by a fierce earthquake shock and sent flying +into the streets in utter panic, where not buried under falling +walls or tumbling debris, is one that can scarcely be pictured in +words, and can be given in any approach to exact realization only +in the narratives of those who passed through its horrors and +experienced the sensations to which it gave rise. Some of the more +vivid of these personal accounts will be presented later, but at +present we must confine ourselves to a general statement of the +succession of events. + +The earthquake proved but the beginning and much the least +destructive part of the disaster. In many of the buildings there +were fires, banked for the night, but ready to kindle the +inflammable material hurled down upon them by the shock. In others +were live electric wires which the shock brought in contact with +woodwork. The terror-stricken fugitives saw, here and there, in +all directions around them, the alarming vision of red flames +curling upward and outward, in gleaming contrast to the white light +of dawn just showing in the eastern sky. Those lurid gleams +climbed upward in devouring haste, and before the sun had fairly +risen a dozen or more conflagrations were visible in all sections +of the business part of the city, and in places great buildings +broke with startling suddenness into flame, which shot hotly high +into the air. + +While the mass of the people were stunned by the awful suddenness +of the disaster and stood rooted to the ground or wandered +helplessly about in blank dismay, there were many alert and self- +possessed among them who roused themselves quickly from their +dismay and put their energies to useful work. Some of these gave +themselves to the work of rescue, seeking to save the injured from +their perilous situation and draw the bodies of the dead from the +ruins under which they lay. Those base wretches to whom plunder is +always the first thought were as quickly engaged in seeking for +spoil in edifices laid open to their plundering hands by the shock. +Meanwhile the glare of the flames brought the fire-fighters out in +hot haste with their engines, and up from the military station at +the Presidio, on the Golden Gate side of the city, came at double +quick a force of soldiers, under the efficient command of General +Funston, of Cuban and Philippine fame. These trained troops were +at once put on guard over the city, with directions to keep the +best order possible, and with strict command to shoot all looters +at sight. Funston recognized at the start the necessity of keeping +the lawless element under control in such an exigency as that which +he had to face. Later in the day the First Regiment of California +National Guards was called out and put on duty, with similar +orders. + + +RESCUERS AND FIRE-FIGHTERS. + + +The work of fighting the fire was the first and greatest duty to be +performed, but from the start it proved a very difficult, almost a +hopeless, task. With fierce fires burning at once in a dozen or +more separate places, the fire department of the city would have +been inadequate to cope with the demon of flame even under the best +of circumstances. As it was, they found themselves handicapped at +the start by a nearly total lack of water. The earthquake had +disarranged and broken the water mains and there was scarcely a +drop of water to be had, so that the engines proved next to +useless. Water might be drawn from the bay, but the centre of the +conflagration was a mile or more away, and this great body of water +was rendered useless in the stringent exigency. + +The only hope that remained to the authorities was to endeavor to +check the progress of the flames by the use of dynamite, blowing up +buildings in the line of progress of the conflagration. This was +put in practice without loss of time, and soon the thunder-like +roar of the explosions began, blasts being heard every few minutes, +each signifying that some building had been blown to atoms. But +over the gaps thus made the flames leaped, and though the brave +fellows worked with a desperation and energy of the most heroic +type, it seemed as if all their labors were to be without avail, +the terrible fire marching on as steadily as if a colony of ants +had sought to stay its devastating progress. + + +THE HORROR OF THE PEOPLE. + + +It was with grief and horror that the mass of the people gazed on +this steady march of the army of ruin. They were seemingly half +dazed by the magnitude of the disaster, strangely passive in the +face of the ruin that surrounded them, as if stunned by despair and +not yet awakened to a realization of the horrors of the situation. +Among these was the possibility of famine. No city at any time +carries more than a few days' supply of provisions, and with the +wholesale districts and warehouse regions invaded by the flames the +shortage of food made itself apparent from the start. Water was +even more difficult to obtain, the supply being nearly all cut off. +Those who possessed supplies of food and liquids of any kind in +many cases took advantage of the opportunity to advance their +prices. Thus an Associated Press man was obliged to pay twenty- +five cents for a small glass of mineral water, the only kind of +drink that at first was to be had, while food went up at the same +rate, bakers frequently charging as much as a dollar for a loaf. +As for the expressmen and cabmen, their charges were often +practically prohibitory, as much as fifty dollars being asked for +the conveyance of a passenger to the ferry. Policemen were early +stationed at some of the retail shops, regulating the sale and the +price of food, and permitting only a small portion to be sold to +each purchaser, so as to prevent a few persons from exhausting the +supply. + +The fire, the swaying and tottering walls, the frequent dynamite +explosions, each followed by a crashing shower of stones and +bricks, rendered the streets very unsafe for pedestrians, and all +day long the flight of residents from the city went on, growing +quickly to the dimensions of a panic. The ferryboats were crowded +with those who wished to leave the city, and a constant stream of +the homeless, carrying such articles as they had rescued from their +homes, was kept up all day long, seeking the sand dunes, the parks +and every place uninvaded by the flames. Before night Golden Gate +Park and the unbuilt districts adjoining on the ocean side +presented the appearance of a tented city, shelter of many kinds +being improvised from bedding and blankets, and the people settling +into such sparse comfort as these inadequate means provided. + +A strange feature of the disaster was a rush to the banks by people +who wished to get their money and flee from the seemingly doomed +city. The fire front was yet distant from these institutions, +which were destined to fall a prey to the flames, and all that +morning lines of dishevelled and half-frantic men stood before the +banks on Montgomery and Sansome Streets, braving in their thirst +for money the smoke and falling embers and beating in wild anxiety +upon the doors. Their effort was vain; the doors remained closed; +finally the police drove these people away, and the banks went on +with the work of saving their valuables. As for the people who +wildly fled toward the ferries, in spite of the fact that ten +blocks of fire, as the day went on, stopped all egress in that +direction, it became necessary for them to be driven back by the +police and the troops, and they were finally forced to seek safety +in the sands. And thus, with incident manifold, went on that fatal +Wednesday, the first day of the dread disaster. + + +OFFICIAL RECORD OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +It is important here to give the official record of the earthquake +shocks, as given by the scientists. Professor George Davidson, of +the University of California, says of them: + +"The earthquake came from north to south, and the only description +I am able to give of its effect is that it seemed like a terrier +shaking a rat. I was in bed, but was awakened by the first shock. +I began to count the seconds as I went towards the table where my +watch was, being able through much practice closely to approximate +the time in that manner. The shock came at 5.12 o'clock. The +first sixty seconds were the most severe. From that time on it +decreased gradually for about thirty seconds. There was then the +slightest perceptible lull. Then the shock continued for sixty +seconds longer, being slighter in degree in this minute than in any +part of the preceding minute and a half. There were two slight +shocks afterwards which I did not time. At 8.14 o'clock I recorded +a shock of five seconds' duration, and one at 4.15 of two seconds. +There were slight shocks which I did not record at 5.17 and at +5.27. At 6.50 P. M. there was a sharp shock of several seconds." + +Professor A. O. Louschner, of the students' observatory of the +University of California, thus records his observations: + +"The principal part of the earthquake came in two sections, the +first series of vibrations lasting about forty seconds. The +vibrations diminished gradually during the following ten seconds, +and then occurred with renewed vigor for about twenty-five seconds +more. But even at noon the disturbance had not subsided, as slight +shocks are recorded at frequent intervals on the seismograph. The +motion was from south-southeast to north-northwest. + +"The remarkable feature of this earthquake, aside from its +intensity, was its rotary motion. As seen from the print, the sum +total of all displacements represents a very regular ellipse, and +some of the lines representing the earth's motion can be traced +along the whole circumference. The result of observation indicates +that our heaviest shocks are in the direction south-southeast to +north-northwest. In that respect the records of the three heaviest +earthquakes agree entirely. But they have several other features +in common. One of these is that while the displacements are very +large the vibration period is comparatively slow, amounting to +about one second in the last two big earthquakes." + +If we seek to discover the actual damage done by the earthquake, +the fact stands out that the fire followed so close upon it that +the traces of its ravages were in many cases obliterated. So many +buildings in the territory of the severest shock fell a prey to the +flames or to dynamite that the actual work of the earth forces was +made difficult and in many places impossible to discover. This +fact is likely to lead to considerable dispute and delay when the +question of insurance adjustment comes up, many of the insurance +companies confining their risk to fire damage and claiming +exemption from liability in the case of damage due to earthquake. + +Among the chief victims of the earth-shake was the costly and showy +City Hall, with its picturesque dome standing loftily above the +structure. This dome was left still erect, but only as a skeleton +might stand, with its flesh gone and its bare ribs exposed to the +searching air. Its roof, its smaller towers came tumbling down in +frightful disarray, and the once proud edifice is to-day a +miserable wreck, fire having aided earthquake in its ruin. The new +Post Office, a handsome government building, also suffered severely +from the shock, its walls being badly cracked and injury done by +earthquake and fire that it is estimated will need half a million +dollars to repair. + + +FREAKS OF THE EARTHQUAKE. + + +One observer states that the earthquake appeared to be very +irregular in its course. He tells us that "there are gas +reservoirs with frames all twisted and big factories thrown to the +ground, while a few yards away are miserable shanties with not a +board out of place. Wooden, steel and brick structures hardly felt +the earthquake in some parts of the city, while in other places all +were wrecked. + +"Skirting the shore northwest from the big ferry building--which +was so seriously injured that it will have to be rebuilt--the first +thing observed was the extraordinary irregularity of the +earthquake's course. Pier No. 5, for instance, is nothing but a +mass of ruins, while Pier No. 3, on one side of it and Pier No. 7, +on the other side, similar in size and construction, are undamaged. +Farther on, the Kosmos Line pier is a complete wreck." + +The big forts at the entrance to the Golden Gate also suffered +seriously from the great shake-up, and the emplacements of the big +guns were cracked and damaged. The same is the case with the +fortifications back of Old Fort Point, the great guns in these +being for the present rendered useless. It will take much time and +labor to restore their delicate adjustment upon their carriages. + +The buildings that collapsed in the city were all flimsy wooden +buildings and old brick structures, the steel frame buildings, even +the score or more in course of construction, escaping injury from +the earthquake shock. Of the former, one of the most complete +wrecks was the Valencia Hotel, a four-story wooden building, which +collapsed into a heap of ruins, pinning many persons under its +splintered timbers. + + +SKYSCRAPERS EARTHQUAKE PROOF. + + +In fact, as the reports of damage wrought by the earthquake came +in, the conviction grew that one of the safest places during the +earthquake shock was on one of the upper floors of the skyscraper +office buildings or hotels. As a matter of fact, not a single +person, so far as can be learned, lost his or her life or was +seriously injured in any of the tall, steel frame structures in the +city, although they rocked during the quake like a ship in a gale. + +The loss of life was caused in almost every case by the collapse of +frame structures, which the native San Franciscan believed was the +safest of all in an earthquake, or by the shaking down of portions +of brick or stone buildings which did not possess an iron +framework. The manner in which the tall steel structures withstood +the shock is a complete vindication of the strongest claims yet +made for them, and it is made doubly interesting from the fact that +this is the first occasion on which the effect of an earthquake of +any proportions on a tall steel structure could be studied. + +The St. Francis Hotel, a sixteen-story structure, can be repaired +at an expenditure of about $400,000, its damage being almost wholly +by fire. The steel shell and the floors are intact. Although the +building rocked like a ship in a gale while the quake lasted, its +foundations are undamaged. Other steel buildings which are so +little damaged as to admit of repairs more or less extensive are +the James Flood, the Union Trust, the CALL building, the Mutual +Savings Bank, the Crocker-Woolworth building and the Postal +building. All of these are modern buildings of steel construction, +from sixteen to twenty stories. + +A peculiar feature of the effect of the earthquake on structures of +this kind is reported in the case of the Fairmount Hotel, a +fourteen-story structure. The first two stories of the Fairmount +are found to be so seriously damaged that they will have to be +rebuilt, while the other twelve stories are uninjured. + +Various explanations are being made of the surprising resistance +shown by the skyscrapers. The great strength and binding power of +the steel frame, combined with a deep-seated foundation and great +lightness as compared with buildings of stone, are the main reasons +given. The iron, it is said, unlike stone, responded to the +vibratory force and passed it along to be expended in other +directions, while brick or stone offered a solid and impenetrable +front, with the result that the seismic force tended to expend +itself by shaking the building to pieces. + +Whether there is any scientific basis for the latter theory or not, +it seems reasonable enough, in view of the descriptions given us of +the manner in which the steel buildings received the shock. All +things considered, the modern steel building has afforded in the +San Francisco earthquake the most convincing evidence of its +strength. + +From Golden Gate Park came news of the total destruction of the +large building covering a portion of the children's playground. +The walls were shattered beyond repair, the roof fell in, and the +destruction was complete. The pillars of the new stone gates at +the park entrance were twisted and torn from their foundations, +some of them, weighing nearly four tons, being shifted as though +they were made of cork. It is a little singular that the monuments +and statues in the city escaped without damage except in the case +of the imposing Dewey Monument, in Union Square Park, which +suffered what appears to be a minor injury. + +In this connection an incident of extraordinary character is +narrated. Among the statues on the buildings of the Leland +Stanford, Jr., University, all of which were overthrown, was a +marble statue of Carrara in a niche on the building devoted to +zoology and physiology. This in falling broke through a hard +cement pavement and buried itself in the ground below, from which +it was dug. The singular fact is that when recovered it proved to +be without a crack or scratch. This university seemed to be a +central point in the disturbance, the destruction of its buildings +being almost total, though they had been built with the especial +design of resisting earthquake shocks. + +Such was the general character of the earthquake at San Francisco +and in its vicinity. It may be said farther that all, or very +nearly all, the deaths and injuries were due to it directly or +indirectly, even those who perished by fire owing their deaths to +the fact of their being pinned in buildings ruined by the +earthquake shock, while others were killed by falling walls +weakened by the same cause. + +On the night of April 23d the earth tremor returned with a slight +shock, only sufficient to cause a temporary alarm. On the +afternoon of the 25th came another and severer one, strong enough +to shake down some tottering walls and add another to the list of +victims. This was a woman named Annie Whitaker, who was at work in +the kitchen of her home at the time. The chimney, which had been +weakened by the great shock, now fell, crashing through the roof +and fracturing her skull. Thus the earth powers claimed a final +human sacrifice before their dread visitation ended. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +The Demon of Fire Invades the Stricken City. + + +The terrors of the earthquake are momentary. One fierce, levelling +shock and usually all is over. The torment within the earth has +passed on and the awakened forces of the earth's crust sink into +rest again, after having shaken the surface for many leagues. +Rarely does the dread agent of ruin leave behind it such a terrible +follower to complete its work as was the case in the doomed city of +San Francisco. All seemed to lead towards such a carnival of ruin +as the earth has rarely seen. The demon of fire followed close +upon the heels of the unseen fiend of the earth's hidden caverns, +and ran red-handed through the metropolis of the West, kindling a +thousand unhurt buildings, while the horror-stricken people stood +aghast in terror, as helpless to combat this new enemy as they were +to check the ravages of the earthquake itself. + +Why not quench the fire at its start with water? Alas! there was +no water, and this expedient was a hopeless one. The iron mains +which carried the precious fluid under the city streets were broken +or injured so that no quenching streams were to be had. In some +cases the engine houses had been so damaged that the fire-fighting +apparatus could not be taken out, though even if it had it would +have been useless. A sweeping conflagration and not an ounce of +water to throw upon it! The situation of the people was a +maddening one. They were forced helplessly and hopelessly to gaze +upon the destruction of their all, and it is no marvel if many of +them grew frantic and lost their reason at the sight. Thousands +gathered and looked on in blank and pitiful misery, their strong +hands, their iron wills of no avail, while the red-lipped fire +devoured the hopes of their lives. + +In a dozen, a hundred, places the flames shot up redly. Huge, +strong buildings which the earthquake had spared fell an +unresisting prey to the flames. The great, iron-bound, towering +Spreckles building, a steeple-like structure, of eighteen stories +in height, the tallest skyscraper in the city, had resisted the +earthquake and remained proudly erect. But now the flames gathered +round and assailed it. From both sides came their attack. A broad +district near by, containing many large hotels and lodging houses, +was being fiercely burnt out, and soon the windows of the lofty +building cracked and splintered, the flames shot triumphantly +within, and almost in an instant the vast interior was a seething +furnace, the wild flames rushing and leaping within until only the +blackened walls remained. + + +THE RESISTLESS MARCH OF THE FLAMES. + + +This was the region of the newspaper offices, and they quickly +succumbed. The Examiner, standing across Third Street from +Spreckles, collapsed from the earthquake shock. A flimsy edifice, +it had long been looked upon as dangerous. Another building in the +rear of this alone resisted both flames and smoke. Across Market +Street from the Examiner stood the Chronicle building, a dozen +stories high. Firmly built, it had borne the earthquake assault +unharmed, but the flames were an enemy against which it had no +defense, and it was quickly added to the victims of the fire-fiend. + +Farther down Market Street, the chief business thoroughfare of the +city, stood that great caravansary, the Palace Hotel, which for +thirty years had been a favorite hostelry, housing the bulk of the +visitors to the Californian metropolis. Its time had come. Doom +hovered over it. Its guests had fled in good season, as they saw +the irresistible approach of the conquering flames. Soon it was +ablaze; quickly from every window of its broad front the tongues of +flame curled hotly in the air; it became a thrice-heated furnace, +like so many of the neighboring structures, adding its quota to the +vast cloud of smoke that hung over the burning city, and rapidly +sinking in red ruin to the earth. + +All day Wednesday the fire spread unchecked, all efforts to stay +its devouring fury proving futile. In the business section of the +city everything was in ruins. Not a business house was left +standing. Theatres crumbled into smouldering heaps. Factories and +commission houses sank to red ruin before the devouring flames. +The scene was like that of ancient Babylon in its fall, or old Rome +when set on fire by Nero's command, as tradition tells. In modern +times there has been nothing to equal it except the conflagration +at Chicago, when the flames swept to ruin that queen city of the +Great Lakes. + +When night fell and the sun withdrew his beams the spectacle was +one at once magnificent and awe-inspiring. The city resembled one +vast blazing furnace. Looking over it from a high hill in the +western section, the flames could be seen ascending skyward for +miles upon miles, while in the midst of the red spirals of flame +could be seen at intervals the black skeletons and falling towers +of doomed buildings. Above all this hung a dense pall of smoke, +showing lurid where the flames were reflected from its dark and +threatening surface. To those nearer the scene presented many +pathetic and distressing features, the fire glare throwing weird +shadows over the worn and panic-stricken faces of the woe-begone +fugitives, driven from their homes and wandering the streets in +helpless misery. Many of them lay sleeping on piles of blankets +and clothing which they had brought with them, or on the hard +sidewalks, or the grass of the open parks. + + +THE CARE OF THE WOUNDED. + + +Through all the streets ambulances and express wagons were +hurrying, carrying dead and injured to morgues and hospitals. But +these refuges for the wounded or receptacles for the dead were no +safer than the remainder of the city. In the morgue at the Hall of +Justice fifty bodies lay, but the approach of the flames rendered +it necessary to remove to Jackson Square these mutilated remnants +of what had once been men. Hospitals were also abandoned at +intervals, doctors and nurses being forced to remove their patients +in haste from the approaching flames. + +There is an open park opposite City Hall. Here the Board of +Supervisors met, and, with fifty substantial citizens who joined +them, formed a Committee of Safety, to take in hand the direction +of affairs and to seek safe quarters for the dying and the dead. +Strangely enough, Mechanics' Pavilion, opposite City Hall, had +escaped injury from the earthquake, though it was only a wooden +building. It had the largest floor in San Francisco, and was +pressed into service at once. The police and the troops, working +in harmony together, passed the word that the dead and injured +should be brought there, the hospitals and morgue having become +choked, and the order was quickly obeyed, until about 400 of the +hurt, many of them terribly mangled, were laid in improvised cots, +attended by all the physicians and trained nurses who could be +obtained. + +The corpses were much fewer, the workers being too busy in fighting +the fire and caring for the wounded to give time and attention as +yet to the dead. But one of the first wagons to arrive brought a +whole family--father, mother and three children--all dead except +the baby, which had a broken arm and a terrible cut across the +forehead. They had been dragged from the ruins of their house on +the water front. A large consignment of bodies, mostly of +workingmen, came from a small hotel on Eddy Street, through the +roof of which the upper part of a tall building next door had +fallen, crushing all below. + + +FIRE ATTACKS THE MINT. + + +To return to the story of the conflagration, the escape of the +United States Mint was one of the most remarkable incidents. +Within the vaults of this fine structure was the vast sum of +$300,000,000 in gold and silver coin and a value of $8,000,000 in +bullion, and toward this mighty sum of wealth the flames swept on +all sides, as if eager to add the reservoir of the precious metals +to their spoils. The Mint building passed through the earthquake +with little damage, though its big smokestacks were badly shaken. +The fire seemed bent on making it its prey, every building around +it being burned to the ground, and it remaining the only building +for blocks that escaped destruction. + +Its safety was due to the energy and activity of its employees. +Superintendent Leach reached it shortly after the shock and found a +number of men already there, whom he stationed at points of vantage +from roof to basement. The fire apparatus of the Mint was brought +into service and help given by the fire department, and after a +period of strenuous labor the flames were driven back. The peril +for a time was critical, the windows on Mint Avenue taking fire and +also those on the rear three stories, and the flames for a time +pouring in and driving back the workers. The roof also caught +fire, but the men within fought like Titans, and efficient aid was +given by a squad of soldiers sent to them. In the end the fire +fiend was vanquished, though considerable damage was done to the +adjusting rooms and the refinery, while the heavy stone cornice on +that side of the building was destroyed. The total loss to the +Mint was later estimated at $15,000. + +Late on Wednesday evening the fire front crept close up to +Mechanics' Pavilion, where a corps of fifty physicians and numerous +nurses were active in the work of relief to the wounded. +Ambulances and automobiles were busy unloading new patients rescued +from the ruins when word came that the building would have to be +vacated in haste. Every available vehicle was at once pressed into +service and the patients removed as rapidly as possible, being +taken to hospitals and private houses in the safer parts of the +city. Hardly had the last of the injured been carried through the +door when the roof was seen to be in a blaze, and shortly afterward +the whole building burst into a whirlwind of flame. + +At midnight the fire was raging and roaring with unslacked rage, +and at dawn of Thursday its fury was undiminished. The work of +destruction was already immense. In much of the Hayes Valley +district, south of McAllister and north of Market Street, the +destruction was complete. From the Mechanics' Pavilion and St. +Nicholas Hotel opposite down to Oakland Ferry the journey was +heartrending, the scene appalling. On each side was ruin, nothing +but ruin, and hillocks of masonry and heaps of rubbish of every +description filled to its middle the city's greatest thoroughfare. + +Across an alley from the Post Office stood the Grant Building, one +of the headquarters of the army. Of this only the smoke-darkened +walls were left. On Market Street opposite this building the +beautiful front of the Hibernian Savings Bank, the favorite +institution of the middle and poorer classes, presented a hideous +aspect of ruin. At eleven o'clock of Wednesday night the north +side of Market Street stood untouched, and hopes were entertained +that the great Flood, Crocker, Phelan and other buildings would be +spared, but the hunger of the fire fiend was not yet satiated, and +the following day these proud structures had only their blackened +ruins to show. On both sides of Market Street, down to the ferry, +the tale was the same. The handsome and gigantic St. Francis +Hotel, on Powell Street, fronting on Union Square, was left a +ruined shell. This was one of the lofty steel structures that bore +unharmed the earthquake shock, but quickly succumbed to the flames. +Among the other skyscrapers north of Market Street that perished +were the fourteen-story Merchants' Exchange, and the great Mills +Building, occupying almost an entire block. + +One section of the city that went without pity, as it had long +stood with reprobation, was that group of disreputable buildings +known as Chinatown, the place of residence of many thousands of +Celestials. The flames made their way unchecked in this direction, +and by noon on Thursday the whole section was a raging furnace, the +denizens escaping with what they could carry of their simple +possessions. On the farther western side the flames cut a wide +swath to Van Ness Avenue, a wide thoroughfare, at which it was +hoped the march of the fire in this direction might be checked, +especially as the water mains here furnished a weak supply. + +In the Missouri district, to the south of Market Street, the zone +of ruin extended westward toward the extreme southern portion, but +was checked at Fourteenth and Missouri Streets by the wholesale use +of dynamite. At this point were located the Southern Pacific +Hospital, the St. Francis Hospital and the College of Physicians +and Surgeons. In order to save these institutions, buildings were +blown up all around them, and by noon the danger was averted. It +later became necessary to destroy the Southern Pacific Hospital +with dynamite, the patients having been removed to places of +safety. + + +THE PALACES ON NOB'S HILL. + + +In the centre of San Francisco rises the aristocratic elevation +known as Nob's Hill, on which the early millionaires built their +homes, and on which stood the city's most palatial residences. It +ascends so abruptly from Kearney Street that it is inaccessible to +any kind of vehicle, the slope being at any angle little short of +forty-five degrees. It is as steep on the south side, and the only +approach by carriage is from the north. To this hill is due the +pioneer cable railway, built in the early '70's. + +Here the "big four" of the railroad magnates--Stanford, Hopkins, +Huntington and Crocker--had put millions in their mansions, the +Mark Hopkins residence being said to have cost $2,500,000. These +men are all dead, and the last named edifice has been converted +into the Hopkins Art Institute, and at the time of the fire was +well filled with costly art treasures. The Stanford Museum, which +also contains valuable objects of art, is now the property of the +Leland Stanford University. The Flood mansion, which cost more +than $1,000,000, was one of the showy residences on this hill, west +of it being the Huntington home and farther west the Crocker +residence, with its broad lawns and magnificent stables. Many +other beautiful and costly houses stood on this hill, and opposite +the Stanford and Hopkins edifices the great Fairmount Hotel had for +two years past been in process of construction and was practically +completed. On the northeastern slope of this hill stood the famous +Chinatown, through which it was necessary to pass to ascend Nob's +Hill from the principal section of the wholesale district. + +This region of palaces was the next to fall a prey to the +insatiable flames. Early Thursday morning a change in the wind +sent the fire westward, eating its way from the water front north +of Market Street toward Nob's Hill. Steadily but surely it climbed +the slope, and the Stanford and Hopkins edifices fell victims to +its fury. Others of the palaces of millionairedom followed. Huge +clouds of smoke enveloped the beautiful white stone Fairmount +Hotel, and there was a general feeling of horror when this +magnificent structure seemed doomed. To it the Committe of Safety +had retreated, but the flames from the burning buildings opposite +reached it, and the committee once more migrated in search of safe +quarters. Fortunately, it escaped with little damage, its walls +remaining intact and much of the interior being left in a state of +preservation, warranting its managers to offer space within it to +the committees whose aim it was to help the homeless or to store +supplies. Some of the woodwork of the building was destroyed by +the fire, but the structure was in such good condition that work on +it was quickly resumed, with the statement that its completion +would not be delayed more than three months beyond the date set, +which was November, 19O6. + +In the district extending northwestwardly from Kearney Street and +Montgomery Avenue, untouched during the first day, the fire spread +freely on the second. This district embraces the Latin quarter, +peopled by various nationalities, the houses being of the flimsiest +construction. Once it had gained a foothold there, the fire swept +onward as though making its way through a forest in the driest +summer season. + +An apochryphal incident is told of the fire in this quarter, which +may be repeated as one example of the fables set afloat. It is +stated that water to fight the fire here was sadly lacking, the +only available supply being from an old well. At a critical moment +the pump sucked dry, the water in the well being exhausted. The +residents were not yet conquered. Some of them threw open their +cellar doors and, calling for assistance, began to roll out barrels +of red wine. Barrel after barrel appeared, until fully five +hundred gallons were ready for use. Then the barrel heads were +smashed in and the bucket brigade turned from water to wine. Sacks +were dipped in the wine and used for fighting the fire. Beds were +stripped of their blankets and these soaked in the wine and hung +over exposed portions of the cottages, while men on the roofs +drenched the shingles and sides of the houses with wine. The +postscript to this queer story is that the wine won and the +firefighters saved their homes. The story is worth retelling, +though it may be added that wine, if it contained much alcohol, +would serve as a feeder rather than as an extinguisher of flame. + +A striking description of the aspect of the city on that terrible +Wednesday is told by Jerome B. Clark, whose home was in Berkeley, +but who did business in San Francisco. He left for the city early +Wednesday morning, after a minor shake-up at home, which he thus +describes: + + +A VIVID FIRE PICTURE. + + +"I was asleep and was awakened by the house rocking. With the +exception of water in vases, and milk in pans being spilled, and +one of our chimneys badly cracked, we escaped with nothing but a +bad scare, but I can assure you it was a terrific and terrifying +experience to feel that old house rocking, jolting and jumping +under us, with the most terrible roar, dull, deep and nerve- +racking. It calmed down after that and we went back to bed, only +to get up at six o'clock to find that neighbors had suffered by +having vases knocked from tables, bric-a-brac knocked around, tiles +knocked out of grates and scarcely a chimney left standing. We +thought that we had had the worst of it, so I started over to the +city as usual, reaching there about eight o'clock, and it is just +impossible to describe the scenes that met my eyes. + +"In every direction from the ferry building flames were seething, +and as I stood there, a five-story building half a block away fell +with a crash, and the flames swept clear across Market Street and +caught a new fireproof building recently erected. The streets in +places had sunk three or four feet, in others great humps had +appeared four or five feet high. The street car tracks were bent +and twisted out of shape. Electric wires lay in every direction. +Streets on all sides were filled with brick and mortar, buildings +either completely collapsed or brick fronts had just dropped +completely off. Wagons with horses hitched to them, drivers and +all, lying on the streets, all dead, struck and killed by the +falling bricks, these mostly the wagons of the produce dealers, who +do the greater part of their work at that hour of the morning. +Warehouses and large wholesale houses of all descriptions either +down, or walls bulging, or else twisted, buildings moved bodily two +or three feet out of a line and still standing with walls all +cracked. + +"The Call building, a twelve-story skyscraper, stood, and looked +all right at first glance, but had moved at the base two feet at +one end out into the sidewalk, and the elevators refused to work, +all the interior being just twisted out of shape. It afterward +burned as I watched it. I worked my way in from the ferry, +climbing over piles of brick and mortar and keeping to the centre +of the street and avoiding live wires that lay around on every +side, trying to get to my office. I got within two blocks of it +and was stopped by the police on account of falling walls. I saw +that the block in which I was located was on fire, and seemed +doomed, so turned back and went up into the city. + +"Not knowing San Francisco, you would not know the various +buildings, but fires were blazing in all directions, and all of the +finest and best of the office and business buildings were either +burning or surrounded. They pumped water from the bay, but the +fire was soon too far away from the water front to make any efforts +in this direction of much avail. The water mains had been broken +by the earthquake, and so there was no supply for the fire engines +and they were helpless. The only way out of it was to dynamite, +and I saw some of the finest and most beautiful buildings in the +city, new modern palaces, blown to atoms. First they blew up one +or two buildings at a time. Finding that of no avail, they took +half a block; that was no use; then they took a block; but in spite +of them all the fire kept on spreading. + +"The City Hall, which, while old, was quite a magnificent building, +occupying a large square block of land, was completely wrecked by +the earthquake, and to look upon reminded one of the pictures of +ancient ruins of Rome or Athens. The Palace Hotel stood for a long +time after everything near it had gone, but finally went up in +smoke as the rest. You could not look in any direction in the city +but what mass after mass of flame stared you in the face. To get +about one had to dodge from one street to another, back and forth +in zigzag fashion, and half an hour after going through a street, +it would be impassable. One after another of the magnificent +business blocks went down. The newer buildings seemed to have +withstood the shock better than any others, except well-built frame +buildings. The former lost some of the outside shell, but the +frame stood all right, and in some cases after fire had eaten them +all to pieces, the steel skeleton, although badly twisted and +warped, still stood. + +"When I finally left the city, it was all in flames as far as +Eighth Street, which is about a mile and a quarter or half from the +water front. I had to walk at least two miles around in order to +get to the ferry building, and when I got there you could see no +buildings standing in any direction. Nearly all the docks caved in +or sheds were knocked down, and all the streets along the water +front were a mass of seams, upheavals and depressions, car tracks +twisted in all shapes. Cars that had stood on sidings were all in +ashes and still burning." + +Wednesday's conflagration continued unabated throughout Thursday, +and it was not until late on Friday that the fire-fighters got it +safely under control. They worked like heroes, struggling almost +without rest, keeping up the nearly hopeless conflict until they +fairly fell in their tracks from fatigue. Handicapped by the lack +of water, they in one case brought it from the bay through lines of +hose well on to a mile in length. Yet despite all they could do +block after block of San Francisco's greatest buildings succumbed +to the flames and sank in red ruin before their eyes. + + +THE LANDMARKS CONSUMED. + + +On all sides famous landmarks yielded to the fury of the flames. +For three miles along the water front the ground was swept clean of +buildings, the blackened beams and great skeletons of factories, +warehouses and business edifices standing silhouetted against a +background of flames, while the whole commercial and office quarter +of Market Street suffered a similar fate. We may briefly instance +some of these victims of the flames. + +Among them were the Occidental Hotel, on Montgomery Street, for +years the headquarters for army officers; the old Lick House, built +by James Lick, the philanthropist; the California Hotel and +Theatre, on Bush Street; and of theatres, the Orpheum, the Alcazar, +the Majestic, the Columbia, the Magic, the Central, Fisher's and +the Grand Opera House, on Missouri Street, where the Conried Opera +Company had just opened for a two weeks' opera season. + +The banks that fell were numerous, including the Nevada National +Bank, the California, the Canadian Bank of Commerce, the First +National, the London and San Francisco, the London, Paris and +American, the Bank of British North America, the German-American +Savings Bank and the Crocker-Woolworth Bank building. A large +number of splendid apartment houses were also destroyed, and the +tide of destruction swept away a host of noble buildings far too +numerous to mention. + +At Post Street and Grant Avenue stood the Bohemian Club, one of the +widest known social organizations in the world. Its membership +included many men famous in art, literature and commerce. Its +rooms were decorated with the works of members, many of whose names +are known wherever paintings are discussed and many of them +priceless in their associations. Most of these were saved. There +were on special exhibition in the "Jinks" room of the Bohemian Club +a dozen paintings by old masters, including a Rembrandt, a Diaz, a +Murillo and others, probably worth $100,000. These paintings were +lost with the building, which went down in the flames. + +One of the great losses was that of St. Ignatius' Church and +College, at Van Ness Avenue and Hayes Street, the greatest +Jesuitical institution in the west, which cost a couple of millions +of dollars. The Merchants' Exchange building, a twelve-story +structure, eleven of whose floors were occupied as offices by the +Southern Pacific Railroad Company, was added to the sum of losses. + + +THE FIRE UNDER CONTROL. + + +For three long days the terrible fire fiend kept up his work, and +the fight went on until late on Friday, when the sweep of the +flames was at length checked and the fire brought under control. +The principal agent in this victory was dynamite, which was freely +used. To its work a separate chapter will be devoted. When at +length the area of the conflagration was limited the wealthiest +part of the city lay in embers and ashes, one of the principal +localities to escape being Pacific Heights, a mile west from Nob's +Hill, on which stood many costly homes of recent construction. + +On Friday night the fire that had worked its way from Nob's Hill to +North Beach Street, sweeping that quarter clean of buildings, +veered before a fierce wind and made its way southerly to the great +sea wall, with its docks and grain warehouses. The flames reached +the tanks of the San Francisco Gas Company, which had previously +been pumped out, and on Saturday morning the grain sheds on the +water front, about half a mile north of the ferry station, were +fiercely burning. But the fire here was confined to a small area, +and, with the work of fireboats in the bay and of the firemen on +shore, who used salt water pumped into their engines, it was +prevented from reaching the ferry building and the docks in that +vicinity. + +The buildings on a high slope between Van Ness and Polk Streets, +Union and Filbert Streets, were blazing fiercely, fanned by a high +wind, but the blocks here were so thinly settled that the fire had +little chance of spreading widely from this point. In fact, it was +at length practically under control, and the entire western +addition of the city west of Van Ness Avenue was safe from the +flames. The great struggle was fairly at an end, and the brave +force of workers were at length given some respite from their +strenuous labors. + +During the height of the struggle and the days of exhaustion and +depression that followed, exaggerated accounts of the losses and of +the area swept by the flames were current, some estimate making the +extent of the fire fifteen square miles out of the total of twenty- +five square miles of the city's area. It was not until Friday, the +27th, that an official survey of the burned district, made by City +Surveyor Woodward, was completed, and the total area burned over +found to be 2,500 acres, a trifle less than four square miles. +This, however, embraced the heart of the business section and many +of the principal residence streets, much of the saved area being +occupied by the dwellings of the poorer people, so that the money +loss was immensely greater than the percentage of ground burned +over would indicate. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Fighting the Flames With Dynamite. + + +Shaken by earthquake, swept by flames, the water supply cut off by +the breaking of the mains, the authorities of the doomed city for a +time stood appalled. What could be done to stay the fierce march +of the flames which were sweeping resistlessly over palace and +hovel alike, over stately hall and miserable hut? Water was not to +be had; what was to take its place? Nothing remained but to meet +ruin with ruin, to make a desert in the path of the fire and thus +seek to stop its march. They had dynamite, gunpowder and other +explosives, and in the frightful exigency there was nothing else to +be used. Only for a brief interval did the authorities yield to +the general feeling of helplessness. Then they aroused themselves +to the demands of the occasion and prepared to do all in the power +of man in the effort to arrest the conflagration. + +While the soldiers under General Funston took military charge of +the city, squads of cavalry and troops of infantry patrolling the +streets and guarding the sections that had not yet been touched by +the flames, Mayor Schmitz and Chief of Police Dinan sprang into the +breach and prepared to make a desperate charge against the platoons +of the fire. This was not all that was needed to be done. From +the "Barbary Coast," as the resort of the vicious and criminal +classes was called, hordes of wretches poured out as soon as night +fell, seeking to slip through the guards and loot stores and rob +the dead in the burning section. Orders were given to the soldiers +to kill all who were engaged in such work, and these orders were +carried out. An associated Press reporter saw three of these +thieves shot and fatally wounded, and doubtless others of them were +similarly dealt with elsewhere. + +A band of fire-fighters was quickly organized by the Mayor and +Chief of Police, and the devoted firemen put themselves in the face +of the flames, determined to do their utmost to stay them in their +course. Cut off from the use of their accustomed engines and water +streams, which might have been effective if brought into play at +the beginning of the struggle, there was nothing to work with but +the dynamite cartridge and the gunpowder mine, and they set bravely +to work to do what they could with these. On every side the roar +of explosions could be heard, and the crash of falling walls came +to the ear, while people were forced to leave buildings which still +stood, but which it was decided must be felled. Frequently a crash +of stone and brick, followed by a cloud of dust, gave warning to +pedestrians that destruction was going on in the forefront of the +flames, and that travel in such localities was unsafe. + + +FIGHTING THE FLAMES. + + +All through the night of Wednesday and the morning of Thursday this +work went on, hopelessly but resolutely. During the following day +blasts could be heard in different sections at intervals of a few +minutes, and buildings not destroyed by fire were blown to atoms, +but over the gaps jumped the live flames, and the disheartened +fire-fighters were driven back step by step; but they continued the +work with little regard for their own safety and with unflinching +desperation. + +One instance of the peril they ran may be given. Lieutenant +Charles O. Pulis, commanding the Twenty-fourth Company of Light +Artillery, had placed a heavy charge of dynamite in a building at +Sixth and Jesse Streets. For some reason it did not explode, and +he returned to relight the fuse, thinking it had become +extinguished. While he was in the building the explosion took +place, and he received injuries that seemed likely to prove fatal, +his skull being fractured and several bones broken, while he was +injured internally. In the early morning, when the fire reached +the municipal building on Portsmouth Square, the nurses, with the +aid of soldiers, got out fifty bodies which were in the temporary +morgue and a number of patients from the receiving hospital. Just +after they reached the street with their gruesome charge a building +was blown up, and the flying bricks and splinters came falling upon +them. The nurses fortunately escaped harm, but several of the +soldiers were hurt, and had to be taken with the other patients to +the out-of-doors Presidio hospital. + +The Southern Pacific Hospital, at Fourteenth and Missouri Streets, +was among the buildings destroyed by dynamite, the patients having +been removed to places of safety, and the Linda Vista and the +Pleasanton, two large family hotels on Jones Street, in the better +part of the city, were also among those blown up to stay the +progress of the conflagration. + + +THE STRUGGLE AGAINST THE FIRE. + + +The fire had continued to creep onward and upward until it reached +the summit of Nob Hill, a district of splendid residences, and +threatened the handsome Fairmount Hotel, then the headquarters of +the Municipal Council, acting as a Committee of Public Safety. As +day broke the flames seized upon this beautiful structure, and the +Council was forced to retreat to new quarters. They finally met in +the North End Police Station, on Sacramento Street, and there +entered actively upon their duties of seeking to check the progress +of the flames, maintain order in the city and control and direct +the host of fugitives, many of whom, still in a state of semi- +panic, were moving helplessly to and fro and sadly needed wise +counsels and a helping hand. + +The fire-fighters meanwhile kept up their indefatigable work under +the direction of the Mayor and the chief of their department. The +engines almost from the start had proved useless from lack of +water, and were either abandoned or moved to the outlying +districts, in the vain hope that the water mains might be repaired +in time to permit of a final stand against the whirlwind march of +the flames. The cloud of despair grew darker still as the report +spread that the city's supply of dynamite had given out. + +"No more dynamite! No more dynamite!" screamed a fireman as he ran +up Ellis Street past the doomed Flood building at two o'clock on +Friday morning, tears standing in his smoke-smirched eyes. + +"No more dynamite! O God! no more dynamite! We are lost!" moaned +the throng that heard his despairing words. + + +A NEW SUPPLY OF EXPLOSIVES. + + +So, at that hour, the supply of the explosive exhausted, and not a +dozen streams of water being thrown in the entire fire zone, the +stunned firemen and the stupefied people stood helpless with their +eyes fixed in despair upon the swiftly creeping flames. + +Had all been like these the entire city would have been doomed, but +there were those at the head of affairs who never for a moment gave +up their resolution. Dynamite and giant powder were to be had in +the Presidio military reservation, and a requisition upon the army +authorities was made. The louder reverberations as the day +advanced and night came on showed that a fresh supply had been +obtained, and that a new and determined campaign against the +conflagration had been entered upon. Hitherto much of the work had +been ignorantly and carelessly done, and by the hasty and premature +use of explosives more harm than good had been occasioned. + +As the fire continued to spread in spite of the heroic work of the +fighting corps, the Committee of Safety called a meeting at noon on +Friday and decided to blow up all the residences on the east side +of Van Ness Avenue, between Golden Gate and Pacific Avenues, a +distance of one mile. Van Ness Avenue is one of the most +fashionable streets of the city and has a width of 125 feet, a fact +which led to the idea that a safety line might be made here too +broad for the flames to cross. + +The firemen, therefore, although exhausted from over twenty-four +hours' work and lack of food, determined to make a desperate stand +at this point. They declared that should the fire cross Van Ness +Avenue and the wind continue its earlier direction toward the west, +the destruction of San Francisco would be virtually complete. The +district west of Van Ness Avenue and north of McAllister +constitutes the finest part of the metropolis. Here are located +all of the finer homes of the well-to-do and wealthier classes, and +the resolution to destroy them was the last resort of desperation. + +Hundreds of police, regiments of soldiers and scores of volunteers +were sent into the doomed district to warn the people to flee. +They heroically responded to the demand of law and went bravely on +their way, leaving their loved homes and trudging painfully over +the pavements with the little they could carry away of their +treasured possessions. + +The reply of a grizzled fire engineer standing at O'Farrell Street +and Van Ness Avenue, beside a blackened engine, may not have been +as terse as that of Hugo's guardsman at Waterloo, but the pathos of +it must have been as great. In answer to the question of what they +proposed to do, he said: + +"We are waiting for it to come. When it gets here we will make one +more stand. If it crosses Van Ness Avenue the city is gone." + + +THE SAVERS OF THE CITY. + + +Yet the work now to be done was much too important to be left to +the hands of untrained volunteers. Skilled engineers were needed, +men used to the scientific handling of explosives, and it was men +of this kind who finally saved what is left to-day of the city. +Three men saved San Francisco, so far as any San Francisco existed +after the fire had worked its will, these three constituting the +dynamite squad who faced and defied the demon at Van Ness Avenue. + +When the burning city seemed doomed and the flames lit the sky +farther and farther to the west, Admiral McCalla sent a trio of his +most trusted men from Mare Island with orders to check the +conflagration at any cost of property. With them they brought a +ton and a half of guncotton. The terrific power of the explosive +was equal to the maniac determination of the fire. Captain +MacBride was in charge of the squad, Chief Gunner Adamson placed +the charges and the third gunner set them off. + +Stationing themselves on Van Ness Avenue, which the conflagration +was approaching with leaps and bounds from the burning business +section of the city, they went systematically to work, and when +they had ended a broad open space, occupied only by the dismantled +ruins of buildings, remained of what had been a long row of +handsome and costly residences, which, with all their treasures of +furniture and articles of decoration, had been consigned to hideous +ruin. + +The thunderous detonations, to which the terrified city listened +all that dreadful Friday night, meant much to those whose ears were +deafened by them. A million dollars' worth of property, noble +residences and worthless shacks alike, were blown to drifting dust, +but that destruction broke the fire and sent the raging flames back +over their own charred path. The whole east side of Van Ness +Avenue, from the Golden Gate to Greenwich, a distance of twenty-two +blocks, or a mile and a half, was dynamited a block deep, though +most of the structures as yet had stood untouched by spark or +cinder. Not one charge failed. Not one building stood upon its +foundation. + +Unless some second malicious miracle of nature should reverse the +direction of the west wind, by nine o'clock it was felt that the +populous district to the west, blocked with fleeing refugees and +unilluminated except by the disastrous glare on the water front, +was safe. Every pound of guncotton did its work, and though the +ruins burned, it was but feebly. From Golden Gate Avenue north the +fire crossed the wide street in but one place. That was at the +Claus Spreckels place, on the corner of California Street. + +There the flames were writhing up the walls before the dynamiters +could reach the spot. Yet they made their way to the foundations, +carrying their explosives, despite the furnace-like heat. The +charge had to be placed so swiftly and the fuse lit in such a hurry +that the explosion was not quite successful from the trained +viewpoint of the gunners. But though the walls still stood, it was +only an empty victory for the fire, as bare brick and smoking ruins +are poor food for flames. + +Captain MacBride's dynamiting squad had realized that a stand was +hopeless except on Van Ness Avenue, their decision thus coinciding +with that of the authorities. They could have forced their +explosives farther in the burning section, but not a pound of +guncotton could be or was wasted. The ruined blocks of the wide +thoroughfare formed a trench through the clustered structures that +the conflagration, wild as it was, could not leap. Engines pumping +brine through Fort Mason from the bay completed the little work +that the guncotton had left, but for three days the haggard-eyed +firemen guarded the flickering ruins. + +The desolate waste straight through the heart of the city remained +a mute witness to the most heroic and effective work of the whole +calamity. Three men did this, and when their work was over and +what stood of the city rested quietly for the first time, they +departed as modestly as they had come. They were ordered to save +San Francisco, and they obeyed orders, and Captain MacBride and his +two gunners made history on that dreadful night. + +They stayed the march of the conflagration at that critical point, +leaving it no channel to spread except along the wharf region, in +which its final force was spent. One side of Van Ness Avenue was +gone; the other remained, the fire leaping the broad open space +only feebly in a few places, where it was easily extinguished. + +In this connection it is well to put on record an interesting +circumstance. This is that there is one place within pistol shot +of San Francisco that the earthquake did not touch, that did not +lose a chimney or feel a tremor. That spot is Alcatraz Island. +Despite the fact that the island is covered with brick buildings, +brick forts and brick chimneys, not a brick was loosened nor a +crack made nor a quiver felt. When the scientist comes to write he +will have his hands full explaining why Alcatraz did not have any +physical knowledge of the event. It was as if New York were to be +shaken to its foundation, and Governor's Island, quietly pursuing +its military routine, should escape without a qualm. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Reign of Destruction and Devastation + + +Rarely, in the whole history of mankind, has a great city been +overwhelmed by destruction so suddenly and awfully as was San +Francisco. One minute its inhabitants slept in seeming safety and +security. Another minute passed and the whole great city seemed +tumbling around them, while sights of terror met the eyes of the +awakened multitude and sounds of horror came to their ears. The +roar of destruction filled the air as the solid crust of the earth +lifted and fell and the rocks rose and sank in billowing waves like +those of the open sea. + +Not all, it is true, were asleep. There was the corps of night +workers, whose duties keep them abroad till day dawns. There were +those whose work calls them from their homes in the early morn. +People of this kind were in the streets and saw the advent of the +reign of devastation in its full extent. From the story of one of +these, P. Barrett, an editor on the Examiner, we select a thrilling +account of his experience on that morning of awe. + + +AN EDITOR'S NARRATIVE. + + +"I have seen this whole, great horror. I stood with two other +members of the Examiner staff on the corner of Market Street, +waiting for a car. Newspaper duties had kept us working until five +o'clock in the morning. Sunlight was coming out of the early +morning mist. It spread its brightness on the roofs of the +skyscrapers, on the domes and spires of churches, and blazed along +up the wide street with its countless banks and stores, its +restaurants and cafes. In the early morning the city was almost +noiseless. Occasionally a newspaper wagon clattered up the street +or a milk wagon rumbled along. One of my companions had told a +funny story. We were laughing at it. We stopped--the laugh +unfinished on our lips. + +"Of a sudden we had found ourselves staggering and reeling. It was +as if the earth was slipping gently from under our feet. Then came +a sickening swaying of the earth that threw us flat upon our faces. +We struggled in the street. We could not get on our feet. + +"I looked in a dazed fashion around me. I saw for an instant the +big buildings in what looked like a crazy dance. Then it seemed as +though my head were split with the roar that crashed into my ears. +Big buildings were crumbling as one might crush a biscuit in one's +hand. Great gray clouds of dust shot up with flying timbers, and +storms of masonry rained into the street. Wild, high jangles of +smashing glass cut a sharp note into the frightful roaring. Ahead +of me a great cornice crushed a man as if he were a maggot--a +laborer in overalls on his way to the Union Iron Works, with a +dinner pail on his arm. + +"Everywhere men were on all fours in the street, like crawling +bugs. Still the sickening, dreadful swaying of the earth +continued. It seemed a quarter of an hour before it stopped. As a +matter of fact, it lasted about three minutes. Footing grew firm +again, but hardly were we on our feet before we were sent reeling +again by repeated shocks, but they were milder. Clinging to +something, one could stand. + +"The dust clouds were gone. It was quite dark, like twilight. But +I saw trolley tracks uprooted, twisted fantastically. I saw wide +wounds in the street. Water flooded out of one. A deadly odor of +gas from a broken main swept out of the other. Telegraph poles +were rocked like matches. A wild tangle of wires was in the +street. Some of the wires wriggled and shot blue sparks. + +"From the south of us, faint, but all too clear, came a horrible +chorus of human cries of agony. Down there in a ramshackle section +of the city the wretched houses had fallen in upon the sleeping +families. Down there throughout the day a fire burned the great +part of whose fuel it is too gruesome a thing to contemplate. + +"That was what came next--the fire. It shot up everywhere. The +fierce wave of destruction had carried a flaming torch with it-- +agony, death and a flaming torch. It was just as if some fire +demon was rushing from place to place with such a torch." + + +WRECK AND RUIN. + + +The magnitude of the calamity became fully apparent after the sun +had risen and began to shine warmly and brightly from the east over +the ruined city. Old Sol, who had risen and looked down upon this +city for thousands of times, had never before seen such a spectacle +as that of this fateful morning. Where once rose noble buildings +were now to be seen cracked and tottering walls, fallen chimneys, +here and there fallen heaps of brick and mortar, and out of and +above all the red light of the mounting flames. From the middle of +the city's greatest thoroughfare ruin, only ruin, was to be seen on +all sides. To the south, in hundreds of blocks, hardly a building +had escaped unscathed. The cracked walls of the new Post Office +showed the rending power of the earthquake. A part of the splendid +and costly City Hall collapsed, the roof falling to the courtyard +and the smaller towers tumbling down. Some of the wharves, laden +with goods of every sort, slid into the bay. With them went +thousands of tons of coal. On the harbor front the earth sank from +six to eight inches, and great cracks opened in the streets. + +San Francisco's famous Chinatown, the greatest settlement of the +Celestials on this continent, went down like a house of cards. +When the earthquake had passed this den of squalor and infamy was +no more. The Chinese theatres and joss-houses tumbled into ruins, +rookery after rookery collapsed, and hundreds of their inhabitants +were buried alive. Panic reigned supreme among the fugitives, who +filled the streets in frightened multitudes, dragging from the +wreck whatever they could save of their treasured possessions. +Much the same was the case with the Japanese quarter, which fire +quickly invaded, the people fleeing in terror, carrying on their +backs what few of their household effects they were able to rescue. + +As for the people of Chinatown, however, no one knows or will ever +know the extent of the dread fate that overcame them, for no one +knows the secrets of that dark abode of infamy and crime, whose +inhabitants burrowed underground like so many ants; and hid their +secrets deep in the earth. + + +THE RUIN OF CHINATOWN. + + +W. W. Overton, of Los Angeles, thus describes the Chinatown dens +and the revelations made by the earthquake and the flames: + +"Strange is the scene where San Francisco's Chinatown stood. No +heap of smoking ruins marks the site of the wooden warrens where +the Orientals dwelt in thousands. Only a cavern remains, pitted +with deep holes and lined with dark passageways, from whose depths +come smoke wreaths. White men never knew the depth of Chinatown's +underground city. Many had gone beneath the street level two and +three stories, but now that the place had been unmasked, men may +see where its inner secrets lay. In places one can see passages a +hundred feet deep. + +"The fire swept this Mongolian quarter clean. It left no shred of +the painted wooden fabric. It ate down to the bare ground, and +this lies stark, for the breezes have taken away the light ashes. +Joss houses and mission schools, groceries and opium dens, gambling +resorts and theatres, all of them went. These buildings blazed up +like tissue paper. + +"From this place I saw hundreds of crazed yellow men flee. In +their arms they bore opium pipes, money bags, silks and children. +Beside them ran the trousered women and some hobbled painfully. +These were the men and women of the surface. Far beneath the +street levels in those cellars and passageways were other lives. +Women, who never saw the day from their darkened prisons, and their +blinking jailors were caught and eaten by the flames." + +Devastation spread widely on all sides, ruining the homes of the +rich as well as of the poor, of Americans as well as of Europeans +and Asiatics, the marts of trade, the haunts of pleasure, the +realms of science and art, the resorts of thousands of the gay +population of the Golden State metropolis. To attempt to tell the +whole story of destruction and ruin would be to describe all for +which San Francisco stood. Science suffered in the loss of the San +Francisco Academy of Sciences, which was destroyed with its +invaluable contents. This building, erected fifteen years ago at a +cost of $500,000, was a seven-story building with a rich collection +of objects of science. Much of the academy's contents can never be +replaced. It represented the work of many years. There was a rare +collection of Pacific Sea birds which was the most valuable of its +kind in the world. In fact, the entire collection of birds ranked +very high, was visited by ornithologists from every country, and +was the pride of the city. The academy was founded in 1850, James +Lick, the same man who endowed the Lick Observatory, giving it +$1,000,000, so it was on a prosperous footing. It will take many +years of active labor to replace the losses of an hour or two of +the reign of fire in this institution, while much that it held is +gone beyond restoration. + + +LOSS TO ART AND SCIENCE. + + +Art suffered as severely as science, the valuable collections in +private and public buildings being nearly all destroyed. We have +spoken of the rare paintings burned in the Bohemian Club building. +The collections on Nob's Hill suffered as severely. When the +mansions here, the Fairmount Hotel and Mark Hopkins Institute were +approached by the flames, many attempts were made to remove some of +the priceless works of art from the buildings. A crowd of soldiers +was sent to the Flood and the Huntington mansions and the Hopkins +Institute to rescue the paintings. From the Huntington home and +the Flood mansion canvases were cut from the framework with knives. +The collections in the three buildings, valued in the hundreds of +thousands, in great part were destroyed, few being saved from the +ravages of the fire. + +The destruction of the libraries, with their valuable collections +of books, was also a very serious loss to the city and its people. +Of these there were nine of some prominence, the Sutro Library +containing many rare books among its 200,000 volumes, while that of +the Mechanics Institute possessed property valued at $2,000,000. +The Public Library occupied a part of the City Hall, the new +building proposed by the city, with aid to the extent of $750,000 +by Andrew Carnegie, being fortunately still in embryo. + +In the burning of the banks the losses were limited to the +buildings, their money and other valuables being securely locked in +fireproof vaults. But these became so heated by the flames that it +was necessary to leave them to a gradual cooling for days, during +which their treasures were unavailable, and those with deposits, +small or large, were obliged to depend on the benevolence of the +nation for food, such wealth as was left to them being locked up +beyond their reach. It was the same with the United States Sub- +Treasury, which was entirely destroyed by fire, its vaults, which +contained all the cash on hand, being alone preserved. Guards were +put over these to protect their contents against possible loss by +theft. + +One serious effect of the conflagration was the general +disorganization of the telegraph system. News items were sent over +the wires, but private messages inquiring about missing friends for +days failed to reach the parties concerned or to bring any return. + +That the world received news of the San Francisco disaster during +the dread day after the earthquake is due in part to the courage of +the telegraph operators, who stuck to their posts and, continued to +send news and other messages in spite of great personal danger. + +The operators and officials of the Postal Telegraph Company +remained in the main office of the company, at the corner of Market +and Montgomery Streets, opposite the Palace Hotel, until they were +ordered out of it because of the danger of the dynamite explosions +in the immediate vicinity. The men proceeded to Oakland, across +the bay, and took possession of the office there. That night the +company operated seven wires from Oakland, all messages from the +city being taken across the bay in boats. As the days passed on +the service gradually improved, but a week or more passed away +before the general service of the company became satisfactory. + + +THE DANGER FROM THIRST. + + +Such news as came from the city was full of tales of horror. For a +number of days one of the chief sources of trouble was from thirst. +Although the earthquake shocks had broken water mains in probably +hundreds of places, strange to say, no water, or very little at +least, appeared on the surface of the ground. Public fountains on +Market Street gave out no relief to the thirsty thousands. At +Powell and Market Streets a small stream of water spurted up +through the cobblestones and formed a muddy pool, at which the +thirsty were glad enough to drink. The soldiers, disregarding the +order not to let people move about, permitted bucket brigades to go +forth and bring back water to relieve the women and the crying +children. To reach the water it was necessary sometimes to go a +mile to one of the four reservoirs which top the hills. + +Here is a story told by one observer of incidents in the city +during the fire: + +"I talked to one man who slept in Alta Plaza. The fire was going +on in the district south of them, and at intervals all night +exhausted fire-fighters made their way to the plaza and dropped, +with the breath out of them, among the huddled people and the +bundles of household goods. The soldiers, who are administering +affairs with all the justice of judges and all the devotion of +heroes, kept three or four buckets of water, even from the women, +for these men, who kept coming all night long. There was a little +food, also kept by the soldiers for these emergencies, and the +sergeant had in his charge one precious bottle of whisky, from +which he doled out drinks to those who were utterly exhausted. + +"Over in a corner of the plaza a band of men and women were +praying, and one fanatic, driven crazy by horror, was crying out at +the top of his voice: + +"'The Lord sent it, the Lord!' + +"His hysterical crying got in the nerves of the soldiers and bade +fair to start a panic among the women and children, so the sergeant +went over and stopped it by force. All night they huddled together +in this hell, with the fire making it bright as day on all sides; +and in the morning the soldiers, using their sense again, +commandeered a supply of bread from a bakery, sent out another +water squad, and fed the refugees with a semblance of breakfast. + +"There was one woman in the crowd who had been separated from her +husband in a rush of the smoke and did not know whether he was +living. The women attended to her all night and in the morning the +soldiers passed her through the lines in her search. A few Chinese +made their way into the crowd. They were trembling, pitifully +scared and willing to stop wherever the soldiers placed them. This +is only a glimpse of the horrible night in the parks and open +places. + +"We learn here that many of the well-to-do people in the upper +residence district have gathered in the strangers from the highways +and byways and given them shelter and comfort for the night in +their living rooms and drawing rooms. Shelter seems to have come +more easily than food. Not an ounce of supplies, of course, has +come in for two days, and most of the permanent stores are in the +hands of the soldiers, who dole them out to all comers alike. But +the hungry cannot always find the military stores and the news has +not gotten about, since there are no newspapers and no regular +means of communication. + +"An Italian tells me that he was taken in by a family living in a +three-story house in the fashionable Pacific Avenue. There were +twenty refugees who passed the night in the drawing room of that +house, whose mistress took down hangings to make them comfortable. +In the morning all the food that was left over in that home of +wealth was enough flour and baking powder to shake together a +breakfast for the refugees. They were hardly ready to leave that +house when the fire came their way, and the people of the house, +together with the refugees, who included two Chinese, made their +way to the open ground of the Presidio. With them streamed a +procession of folks carrying valuables in bundles. + +"There came out, too, tales of both heroism and crime. The firemen +had been at it for thirty-six hours under such conditions as +firemen never before faced, and they do little more than give +directions, while the volunteers, thousands of young Western men +who have remained to see it through, do the work. The troops have +all that they can do to handle the crowds in the streets and +prevent panics. The work of dynamiting, tearing down and rescuing +is in the hands of the volunteers. + +"This morning an eddy of flame from the edge of the burning +wholesale district ran up the slope of Russian Hill, the highest +eminence in the city. All along the edge of that hill and up the +slopes are little frame houses which hold Italians and Mexicans. A +corps of volunteer aides ran along the edge of the fire, warning +people out of the houses. But the flames ran too fast and three +women were caught in the upper story of an old frame house. A +young man tore a rail from a fence, managed to climb it, and +reached the window. He bundled one woman out and slid her down the +rail; then the roof caught fire. He seized another woman and +managed to drop her on the rail, down which she slid without +hurting herself a great deal. But the roof fell while he was +struggling with another woman and they fell together into the +flames. There must have been hundreds of such heroisms and dozens +of such catastrophes. We are so drunken and dulled by horror that +we take such stories calmly now. We are saturated." + + +HOW LOOTING WAS HINDERED. + + +One thing to be strictly guarded against in those days of +destruction was the outbreak of lawlessness. A city as large as +San Francisco is sure to hold a large number of the brigands of +civilization, a horde who need to be kept under strict discipline +at all times, and especially when calamity lets down for the time +being the bars of the law, at which time many of the usually law- +abiding would join their ranks if any license were allowed. The +authorities made haste to guard against this and certain other +dangers, Mayor Schmitz issuing on Wednesday the following +proclamation: + +"The Federal troops, the members of the regular police force and +special police officers have been authorized to kill any and all +persons engaged in looting or in the commission of any other crime. + +"I have directed all the gas and electric lighting companies not to +turn on gas or electricity until I order them to do so. You may, +therefore, expect the city to remain in darkness for an indefinite +time. + +"I request all citizens to remain at home from darkness until +daylight every night until order is restored. + +"I warn all citizens of the danger of fire from damaged or +destroyed chimneys, broken or leaking gas pipes or fixtures or any +like causes." + +He also ordered that no lights should be used in the houses and no +fires built in the houses until the chimneys had been inspected and +repaired. + +There was need of vigilance in this direction, for the vandals were +quickly at work. Routed out from their dens along the wharves, the +rats of the waterfront, the drifters on the back eddy of +civilization, crawled out intent on plunder. Early in the day a +policeman caught one of these men creeping through the window of a +small bank on Montgomery Street and shot him dead. But the police +were kept too busy at other necessary duties to devote much time to +these wretches, and for a time many of them plundered at will, +though some of them met with quick and sure retribution. + + +STORIES BY SIGHTSEERS. + + +One onlooker says: "Were it not for the fact that the soldiers in +charge of the city do not hesitate in shooting down the ghouls the +lawless element would predominate. Not alone do the soldiers +execute the law. On Wednesday afternoon, in front of the Palace +Hotel, a crowd of workers in the mines discovered a miscreant in +the act of robbing a corpse of its jewels. Without delay he was +seized, a rope obtained, and he was strung up to a beam that was +left standing in the ruined entrance of the hotel. No sooner had +he been hoisted up and a hitch taken in the rope than one of his +fellow-criminals was captured. Stopping only to obtain a few yards +of hemp, a knot was quickly tied, and the wretch was soon adorning +the hotel entrance by the side of the other dastard. + +"These are the only two instances I saw, but I heard of many that +were seen by others. The soldiers do all they can, and while the +unspeakable crime of robbing the dead is undoubtedly being +practiced, it would be many times as prevalent were it not for the +constant vigilance on all sides, as well as the summary justice." + +Another observer tells of an instance of this summary justice that +came under his eyes: + +"At the corner of Market and Third Streets on Wednesday I saw a man +attempting to cut the fingers from the hand of a dead woman in +order to secure the rings which adorned the stiffened fingers. +Three soldiers witnessed the deed at the same time and ordered the +man to throw up his hands. Instead of obeying the command he drew +a revolver from his pocket and began to fire at his pursuer without +warning. The three soldiers, reinforced by half a dozen uniformed +patrolmen, raised their rifles to their shoulders and fired. With +the first shots the man fell, and when the soldiers went to the +body to dump it into an alley nine bullets were found to have +entered it." + +The warning this severity gave was accentuated in one instance in a +most effective manner. On a pile of bricks, stones and rubbish was +thrown the body of a man shot through the heart, and on his chest +was pinned this placard: + +"Take warning!" + +Those of the ghouls who saw this were likely to desist from their +detestable work, unless they valued spoils more than life. + +Willis Ames, a Salt Lake City man, tells of the kind of justice +done to thieves, as it came under his observation: + +"I saw man after man shot down by the troops. Most of these were +ghouls. One man made the trooper believe that one of the dead +bodies lying on a pile of rocks was his mother, and he was +permitted to go up to the body. Apparently overcome by grief, he +threw himself across the corpse. In another instant the soldiers +discovered that he was chewing the diamond earrings from the ears +of the dead woman. 'Here is where you get what is coming to you,' +said one of the soldiers, and with that he put a bullet through the +ghoul. The diamonds were found in the man's mouth afterward." + +Others were shot to save them from the horror of being burned +alive. Max Fast, a garment worker, tells of such an instance. He +says: + +"When the fire caught the Windsor Hotel at Fifth and Market Streets +there were three men on the roof, and it was impossible to get them +down. Rather than see the crazed men fall in with the roof and be +roasted alive the military officer directed his men to shoot them, +which they did in the presence of 5,000 people." + +He further states: "At Jefferson Square I saw a fatal clash between +the military and the police. A policeman ordered a soldier to take +up a dead body to put it in the wagon, and the soldier ordered the +policeman to do it. Words followed, and the soldier shot the +policeman dead." + +Among the many stories of this character on record is that of a +concerted effort to break into and rob the Mint, which led to the +death of fourteen men, who were shot down by the guard in charge. +They had disregarded the command of the officer in charge to +desist. They disobeyed, and the death of nearly the whole of them +followed. + + +DEATH FOR SLIGHT OFFENSE. + + +As may well be imagined, the privilege given to fire at will was +very likely to lead to examples of unjustifiable haste in the use +of the rifle. Such haste is not charged against the United States +troops, but the militia and volunteer guards showed less judgment +in the use of their weapons. Thus we are told that one man was +shot for the minor offense of washing his hands in drinking water +which had been brought with great trouble for the thirsty people +gathered in Columbia Park. It is also said that a bank clerk, +searching the ruins of his bank under orders, was killed by a +soldier who thought he was looting. More than one seems to have +been shot as looters for entering their own homes. + +Among the reports there is one that two men were shot through the +windows of their houses because they disobeyed the general orders +and lit candles, and one woman because she lighted a fire in her +cook stove. Yet, if such unwarranted acts existed, there were +others better deserved. It is said that three men were lined up +and shot before ten thousand people. One was caught taking the +rings from a woman who had fainted, another had stolen a piece of +bread from a hungry child, and the third, little more than a boy, +was found in the act of robbing tents. One thief who escaped the +bullet richly deserved it. He came upon a Miss Logan when lying +unconscious on the floor of the St. Francis Hotel after the +earthquake, and, rather than take the time to wrench some valuable +rings from her hand, cut off the finger bearing them, and left her +to the horrors of the coming fire. + +The climax in the too free use of the rifle came on the 23d, when +Major H. C. Tilden, a prominent member of the General Relief +Committee, was shot and killed in his automobile by members of the +citizens' patrol. Two others in the car were struck by bullets. +The automobile had been used as an ambulance and the Red Cross flag +was displayed on it. The excuse of the shooters was that they did +not see the flag and that the car did not stop when challenged. +This act led to an order forbidding the carrying of firearms by the +citizens' committees and to stricter regulation of the soldiers in +the use of their weapons. + +Later on looting took a new form different from that at first shown +and was practiced by a different class of people. These were the +sightseers, many of them people of prominence, who entered upon a +crusade of relic hunting in Chinatown, gathering and carrying off +from the ashes of this quarter valuable pieces of chinaware, bronze +ornaments, etc. It became necessary to put a stop to this, and on +April 30th four militiamen were arrested while digging in the ruins +of the Chinese bazaars, and others were frightened away by shots +fired over their heads. A strong military line was then drawn +around the district, and this last resource of the looter came to +an end. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +The Panic Flight of a Homeless Host. + + +The scene that was visible in the streets of San Francisco on that +dread Wednesday morning was one to make the strongest shudder with +horror. Those three minutes of devastating earth tremors were +moments never to be forgotten. In such a time it is the human +instinct to get into the open air, and the people stumbled from +their heaving and quivering houses to find even the solid earth was +swaying and rising and falling, so that here and there great rents +opened in the streets. To the panic-stricken people the minutes +that followed seemed years of terror. Doubtless some among them +died of sheer fright and more went mad with terror. There was a +roar in the air like a burst of thunder, and from all directions +came the crash of falling walls. They would run forward, then +stop, as another shock seemed to take the earth from under their +feet, and many of them flung themselves face downward on the ground +in an agony of fear. + +Two or three minutes seemed to pass before the fugitives found +their voices. Then the screams of women and the wild cries of men +rent the air, and with one impulse the terror-stricken host fled +toward the parks, to get themselves as far as possible from the +tottering and falling walls. These speedily became packed with +people, most of them in the night clothes in which they had leaped +or been flung from their beds, screaming and moaning at the little +shocks that at intervals followed the great one. The dawn was just +breaking. The gas and electric mains were gone and the street +lamps were all out. The sky was growing white in the east, but +before the sun could fling his early rays from the horizon there +came another light, a lurid and threatening one, that of the flames +that had begun to rise in the warehouse district. + +The braver men and those without families to watch over set out for +this endangered region, half dressed as they were. In the early +morning light they could see the business district below them, many +of the buildings in ruins and the flames showing redly in five or +six places. Through the streets came the fire engines, called from +the outlying districts by a general alarm. The firemen were not +aware as yet that no water was to be had. + + +THE PANIC IN THE SLUMS. + + +On Portsmouth Square the panic was indescribable. This old tree +plaza, about which the early city was built, is now in the centre +of Chinatown, of the Italian district and of the "Barbary Coast," +the "Tenderloin" of the Western metropolis. It is the chief slum +district of the city. The tremor here ran up the Chinatown hill +and shook down part of the crazy buildings on its southern edge. +It brought ruin also to some of the Italian tenements. Portsmouth +Square became the refuge of the terrified inhabitants. Out from +their underground burrows like so many rats fled the Chinese, +trembling in terror into the square, and seeking by beating gongs +and other noise-making instruments to scare off the underground +demons. Into the square from the other side came the Italian +refugees. The panic became a madness, knives were drawn in the +insanity of the moment, and two Chinamen were taken to the morgue, +stabbed to death for no other reason than pure madness. Here on +one side dwelt 20,000 Chinese, and on the other thousands of +Italians, Spaniards and Mexicans, while close at hand lived the +riff-raff of the "Barbary Coast." + +Seemingly the whole of these rushed for that one square of open +ground, the two streams meeting in the centre of the square and +heaping up on its edges. There they squabbled and fought in the +madness of panic and despair, as so many mad wolves might have +fought when caught in the red whirl of a prairie fire, until the +soldiers broke in and at the bayonet's point brought some semblance +of order out of the confusion of panic terror. + +This scene in Portsmouth Square but illustrated the madness of fear +everywhere prevailing. On every side thousands were fleeing from +the roaring furnace that minute by minute seemed to extend its +boundaries. + + +THE FLIGHT FOR SAFETY. + + +In the awful scramble for safety the half-crazed survivors +disregarded everything but the thought of themselves and their +property. In every excavation and hole throughout the north beach +householders buried household effects, throwing them into ditches +and covering the holes. Attempts were made to mark the graves of +the property so that it could be recovered after the flames were +appeased. + +The streets were filled with struggling people, some crying and +weeping and calling for missing loved ones. Crowding the sidewalks +were thousands of householders attempting to drag some of their +effects to places of safety. In some instances men with ropes were +dragging trunks, tandem style, while others had sewing machines +strapped to the trunks. Again, women were rushing for the hills, +carrying on their arms only the family cat or a bird cage. + +There were two ideas in the minds of the fugitives, and in many +cases these two only. One of these was to escape to the open +ground of Golden Gate Park and the Presidio reservation; the other +was to reach the ferry and make their way out of the seemingly +doomed city. + +At the ferry building a crowd numbering thousands gathered, begging +for food and transportation across the bay. Hundreds had not even +the ten cents fare to Oakland. Most of the refugees at this point +were Chinamen and Italians, who had fled from their burned +tenements with little or no personal property. + +Residents of the hillsides in the central portion of the city +seemingly were safe from the inferno of flames that was consuming +the business section. They watched the towering mounds of flames, +and speculated as to the extent of the territory that was doomed. +Suddenly there was whispered alarm up and down the long line of +watchers, and they hurried away to drag clothing, cooking utensils +and scant provisions through the streets. From Grant Avenue the +procession moved westward. Men and women dragged trunks, packed +huge bundles of blankets, boxes of provisions--everything. Wagons +could not be hired except by paying the most extortionate rates. + +"Thank Heaven for the open space of the Presidio and for Golden +Gate Park!" was the unspoken thank-offering of many hearts. The +great park, with its thousand and more acres of area, extending +from the thinly populated part of the city across the sand dunes to +the Pacific, seemed in that awful hour a God-given place of refuge. +Near it and extending to the Golden Gate channel is the Presidio +military reservation, containing 1,480 acres, and with only a few +houses on its broad extent. Here also was a place of safety, +provided that the forests which form a part of its area did not +burn. + + +THE EXODUS FROM THE BURNING CITY. + + +To these open spaces, to the suburbs, in every available direction, +the fugitives streamed, in thousands, in tens of thousands, finally +in hundreds of thousands, safety from those towering flames, from +the tottering walls of their dwellings, from a possible return of +the earthquake, their one overmastering thought. There were many +persons with scanty clothing, women in underskirts and thin waists +and men in shirt sleeves. Many women carried children, while +others wheeled baby carriages. It was a strange and weird +procession, that kept up unceasingly all that dreadful day and +through the night that followed, as the all-conquering flames +spread the area of terror. + +At intervals news came of what was doing behind the smoke cloud. +The area of the flames spread all night. People who had decided +that their houses were outside of the dangerous area and had +decided to pass the night, even after the terrible experience of +the shake-up, under their roofs, hourly gave up the idea and +struggled to the parks. There they lay in blankets, their choicest +valuables by their sides, and the soldiers kept watch and order. +Many lay on the bare grass of the park, with nothing between them +and the chill night air. Fortunately, the weather was clear and +mild, but among those who lay under the open sky were men and women +who were delicately reared, accustomed all their lives to luxurious +surroundings, and these must have suffered severely during that +night of terror. + +The fire was going on in the district south of them, and at +intervals all night exhausted fire-fighters made their way to the +plaza and dropped, with the breath out of them, among the huddled +people and the bundles of household goods. The soldiers, who were +administering affairs with all the justice of judges and all the +devotion of heroes, kept three or four buckets of water, even from +the women, for these men, who continued to come all the night long. +There was a little food, also kept by the soldiers for these +emergencies, and the sergeant had in his charge one precious bottle +of whisky, from which he doled out drinks to those who were utterly +exhausted. + +But there was no panic. The people were calm, stunned. They did +not seem to realize the extent of the calamity. They heard that +the city was being destroyed; they told each other in the most +natural tone that their residences were destroyed by the flames, +but there was no hysteria, no outcry, no criticism. + +The trip to the hills and to the water front was one of terrible +hardship. Famishing women and children and exhausted men were +compelled to walk seven miles around the north shore in order to +avoid the flames and reach the ferries. Many dropped to the street +under the weight of their loads, and willing fathers and husbands, +their strength almost gone, strove to pick up and urge them forward +again. + +In the panic many mad things were done. Even soldiers were obliged +in many instances to prevent men and women, made insane from the +misfortune that had engulfed them, from rushing into doomed +buildings in the hope of saving valuables from the ruins. In +nearly every instance such action resulted in death to those who +tried it. At Larkin and Sutter Streets, two men and a woman broke +from the police and rushed into a burning apartment house, never to +reappear. + +The rush to the parks and the dunes was followed in the days that +followed by as wild a rush to the ferries, due to the mad desire to +escape anywhere, in any way, from the burning city. + + +THE WILD RUSH TO THE FERRIES. + + +At the ferry station on Wednesday night there was much confusion. +Mingled in an inextricable mass were people of every race and class +on earth. A common misfortune and hunger obliterated all +distinctions. Chinese, lying on pallets of rags, slept near +exhausted white women with babies in their arms. Bedding, +household furniture of every description, pet animals and trinkets, +luggage and packages of every sort packed almost every foot of +space near the ferry building. Men spread bedding on the pavement +and calmly slept the sleep of exhaustion, while all around a bedlam +of confusion reigned. + +Many of those who sought the ferry on that fatal Wednesday met a +solid wall of flames extending for squares in length and utterly +impassable. In their half insane eagerness to escape some of them +would have rushed into fatal danger but for the soldiers, who +guarded the fire line and forced them back. Only those reached the +ferry who had come in precedence of the flames, or who made a long +detour to reach that avenue of flight. When the news came to the +camps of refugees that it was safe to cross the burned area a +procession began from the Golden Gate Park across the city and down +Market Street, the thoroughfare which had long been the pride of +the citizens, and a second from the Presidio, along the curving +shore line of the north bay, thence southward along the water +front. Throughout these routes, eight miles long, a continuous +flow of humanity dragged its weary way all day and far into the +night amidst hundreds of vehicles, from the clumsy garbage cart to +the modern automobile. Almost every person and every vehicle +carried luggage. Drivers of vehicles were disregardful of these +exhausted, hungry refugees and drove straight through the crowd. +So dazed and deadened to all feeling were some of them that they +were bumped aside by carriage wheels or bumped out of the way by +persons. + + +SCENES OF HUMOR AND PATHOS. + + +As already stated, the scene had its humorous as well as its +pathetic side, and various amusing stories are told by those who +were in a frame of mind to notice ludicrous incidents in the +horrors of the situation. Two race track men met in the drive. + +"Hello, Bill; where are you living now?" asked one. + +"You see that tree over there--that big one?" said Bill. "Well, +you climb that. My room is on the third branch to the left," and +they went away laughing. + +Another observer tells these incidents of the flight: "I saw one +big fat man calmly walking up Market Street, carrying a huge bird +cage, and the cage was empty. He seemed to enjoy looking at the +wrecked buildings. Another man was leading a huge Newfoundland dog +and carrying a kitten in his arms. He kept talking to the kitten. +On Fell Street I noticed an old woman, half dressed, pushing a +sewing machine up the hill. A drawer fell out, and she stopped to +gather the fallen spools. Poor little seamstress, it was now her +all." + +A more amusing instance of the spirit of saving is that told by +another narrator, who says that he saw a lone woman patiently +pushing an upright piano along the pavement a few inches at a time. +Evidently in this case, too, it was the poor soul's one great +treasure on earth. + +He also tells of a guest berating the proprietor of a hotel, a few +minutes after the shock, because he had not obeyed orders to call +him at five o'clock. He vowed he would never stop at that house +again, a vow he might well keep, as the house is no more. + +In one room where two girls were dressing the floor gave way and +one of them disappeared. + +"Where are you, Mary?" screamed her companion. + +"Oh, I'm in the parlor," said Mary calmly, as she wriggled out of +the mass of plaster and mortar below. + +At the handsome residence of Rudolph Spreckels, the wealthy +financier, the lawn was riven from end to end in great gashes, +while the ornamental Italian rail leading to the imposing entrance +was a battered heap. But the family, with a philosophy notable for +the occasion, calmly set up housekeeping on the sidewalk, the women +seated in armchairs taken from the mansion and wrapped in rugs and +coverlets, the silver breakfast service was laid out on the stone +coping and their morning meal spread out on the sidewalk. This, +scene was repeated at other houses of the wealthy, the families too +fearful of another shock to venture within doors. + +Another story of much interest in this connection is told. On +Friday afternoon, two days and some hours after the scene just +narrated, Mrs. Rudolph Spreckels presented her husband with an heir +on the lawn in front of their mansion, while the family were +awaiting the coming of the dynamite squad to blow up their +magnificent residence. An Irish woman who had been called in to +play the part of midwife at a birth elsewhere on Saturday, made a +pertinent comment after the wee one's eyes were opened to the walls +of its tent home. + +"God sends earthquakes and babies," she said, "but He might, in His +mercy, cut out sending them both together." + +There were many pathetic incidents. Families had been sadly +separated in the confusion of the flight. Husbands had lost their +wives--wives had lost their husbands, and anxious mothers sought +some word of their children--the stories were very much the same. +One pretty looking woman in an expensive tailor-made costume badly +torn, had lost her little girl. + +"I don't think anything has happened to her," said she, hopefully. +"She is almost eleven years old, and some one will be sure to take +her in and care for her; I only want to know where she is. That is +all I care about now." + +A well-known young lady of good social position, when asked where +she had spent the night, replied: "On a grave." + +"I thank God, I thank Uncle Sam and the people of this nation," +said a woman, clad in a red woolen wrapper, seated in front of a +tent at the Presidio nursing one child and feeding three others +from a board propped on two bricks. "We have lost our home and all +we had, but we have never been hungry nor without shelter." + +The spirit of '49 was vital in many of the refugees. One man +wanted to know whether the fire had reached his home. He was +informed that there was not a house standing in that section of the +city. He shrugged his shoulders and whistled. + +"There's lots of others in the same boat," as he turned away. + +"Going to build?" repeated one man, who had lost family and home +inside of two hours. "Of course, I am. They tell me that the +money in the banks is still all right, and I have some insurance. +Fifteen years ago I began with these," showing his hands, "and I +guess I'm game to do it over again. Build again, well I wonder." + +Among the many pathetic incidents of the disaster was that of a +woman who sat at the foot of Van Ness Avenue on the hot sands on +the hillside overlooking the bay east of Fort Mason, with four +little children, the youngest a girl of three, the eldest a boy of +ten years. They were destitute of water, food and money. + +The woman had fled, with her children, from a home in flames in the +Mission Street district, and tramped to the bay in the hope of +sighting the ship which she said was about due, of which her +husband was the captain. + +"He would know me anywhere," she said. And she would not move, +although a young fellow gallantly offered his tent, back on a +vacant lot, in which to shelter her children. + + +THE GOLDEN GATE CAMP. + + +In the Golden Gate Park there was the most woefully grotesque camp +of sufferers imaginable. There was no caste, no distinction of +rich and poor, social lines had been obliterated by the common +misfortune, and the late owners of property and wealth were glad to +camp by the side of the day laborer. As for shelter, there were a +few army tents and some others which afforded a fair degree of +comfort, but nine out of ten are the poorest suggestions of tents +made out of bedclothes, rugs, raincoats and in some cases of lace +curtains. None of the tents or huts has a floor, and it is +impossible to see how a large number of women and children can +escape the most disastrous physical effects. + +The unspeakable chaos that prevailed was apparent in no way more +than in the system, or lack of system, of registration and +location. At the entrance to Golden Gate Park stands a billboard, +twenty feet high and a hundred feet long. Originally it bore the +praises of somebody's beer. Covering this billboard, to a height +of ten or twelve feet, were slips of paper, business cards, letter +heads and other notices, addressed to "Those interested," "Friends +and relatives," or to some individual, telling of the whereabouts +of refugees. + +One notice read: "Mrs. Rogers will find her husband in Isidora +Park, Oakland. W. H. Rogers." Another style was this: "Sue, Harry +and Will Sollenberger all safe. Call at No. 250 Twenty-seventh +Avenue." + +There were thousands of these dramatic notices on this billboard, +and one larger than the others read: "Death notices can be left +here; get as many as possible." + +Another method of finding friends and relatives was by printing +notices on vehicles. On the side curtains of a buggy being driven +to Golden Gate Park was the following sign: "I am looking for I. E. +Hall." + +That searchers for lost ones might have the least trouble, all the +tents, here known as camps, were tagged with the names or numbers. +For instance, one tent of bed quilts carried this sign: "No. 40 +Bush Street camp." + +Most of the tents were merely named for the family name of the +occupants, the former streets number usually being given. But +these tent tags told a wonderful story of human nature. A small +army tent bore the name, "Camp Thankful," the one next to it was +placarded "Camp Glory" and a few feet farther on an Irishman had +posted the sign "Camp Hell." + +The cooking was all done on a dozen bricks for a stove, with such +utensils as may usually be picked up in the ordinary residential +alley. But in all of the camps the badge of the eternal feminine +was to be found in the form of small pieces of broken mirrors, or +hand mirrors fastened to trees or tent walls, in some cases the +polished bottom of a tomato can serving the purposes of the +feminine toilet. + +One woman, in whose improvised tent screeched a parrot, sat +ministering to the wounds of the other family pet, a badly singed +cat. The number of canaries, parrots, dogs and cats was one of the +amusing features of the disaster. + +Among the interesting and thrilling incidents of the disaster is +that connected with the telegraph service. For many hours +virtually all the news from San Francisco came over the wires of +the Postal Telegraph Company. The Postal has about fifteen wires +running into San Francisco. They go under the bay in cables from +Oakland, and thence run underground for several blocks down Market +Street to the Postal building. About forty operators are employed +to handle the business, but evidently there was only about one on +duty when the earthquake began. + +What became of him nobody knows. But he seems to have sent the +first word of the disaster. It came over the Postal wires about +nine o'clock, just when the day's business had started in the East. +It will long be preserved in the records of the company. This was +the dispatch: + +"There was an earthquake hit us at 5.13 this morning, wrecking +several buildings and wrecking our offices. They are carting dead +from the fallen buildings. Fire all over town. There is no water +and we lost our power. I'm going to get out of office, as we have +had a little shake every few minutes, and it's me for the simple +life." + +"R., San Francisco, 5.50 A. M." + +"Mr. R." evidently got out, for there was nothing doing for a brief +interval after that. The operator in the East pounded and pounded +at his key, but San Francisco was silent. The Postal people were +wondering if it was all the dream of some crazy operator or a +calamity, when the wire woke up again. It was the superintendent +of the San Francisco force this time. + +"We're on the job, and are going to try and stick," was the way the +first message came from him. + +This was what came over the wire a little later: + +"Terrific earthquake occurred here at 5.13 this morning. A number +of people were killed in the city. None of the Postal people were +killed. They are now carting the dead from the fallen buildings. +There are many fires, with no one to fight them. Postal building +roof wrecked, but not entire building." + +The fire got nearer and nearer to the Postal building. All of the +water mains had been destroyed around the building, the operators +said, and there was no hope if the fire came on. They also said +that they could hear the sound of dynamite blowing up buildings. +All this time the operators were sticking to their posts and +sending and receiving all the business the wires could stand. At +12.45 the wire began to click again with a message for the little +group of waiting officials. + +This message came in jerks: "Fire still coming up Market Street. +It's one block from the Post Office now; back of the Palace Hotel +is a furnace. I am afraid that the Grand Hotel and the Palace +Hotel will get it soon. The Southern Pacific offices on California +Street are safe, so far, but can't tell what will happen. +California Street is on fire. Almost everything east of Montgomery +Street and north of Market Street is on fire now." + +There was a pause, then: "We are beginning to pack up our +instruments." + +"Instruments are all packed up, and we are ready to run," was +another message. It was evident that just one instrument had been +left connected with the world outside. In about ten minutes it +began to click. Those who knew the telegraphers' language caught +the word "Good-bye," and then the ticks stopped. + +At the end of an hour the instrument in the office began to click +again. It was from an electrician by the name of Swain. + +"I'm back in the building, but they are dynamiting the building +next door, and I've got to get out," was the way his message was +translated. Dynamite ended the story, and the Postal's domicile in +San Francisco ceased to exist. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Facing Famine and Praying for Relief. + + +Frightful was the emergency of the vast host of fugitives who fled +in terror from the blazing city of San Francisco to the open gates +of Golden Gate Park and the military reservation of the Presidio. +Food was wanting, scarcely any water was to be had, death by hunger +and thirst threatened more than a quarter million of souls thus +driven without warning from their comfortable and happy homes and +left without food or shelter. Provisions, shelter tents, means of +relief of various kinds were being hurried forward in all haste, +but for several days the host of fugitives had no beds but the bare +ground, no shelter but the open heavens, scarcely a crumb of bread +to eat, scarcely a gill of water to drink. Those first days that +followed the disaster were days of horror and dread. Rich and poor +were mingled together, the delicately reared with the rough sons of +toil to whom privation was no new experience. + +Those who had food to sell sought to take advantage of the +necessities of the suffering by charging famine prices for their +supplies, but the soldiers put a quick stop to this. When Thursday +morning broke, lines of buyers formed before the stores whose +supplies had not been commandeered. In one of these, the first man +was charged 75 cents for a loaf of bread. The corporal in charge +at that point brought his gun down with a slam. + +"Bread is 10 cents a loaf in this shop," he said. + +It went. The soldier fixed the schedule of prices a little higher +than in ordinary times, and to make up for that he forced the +storekeeper to give free food to several hungry people in line who +had no money to pay. In several other places the soldiers used the +same brand of horse sense. + +A man with a loaf of bread in his hand ran up to a policeman on +Washington Street. "Here," he said, "this man is trying to charge +me a dollar for this loaf of bread. Is that fair?" + +"Give it to me," said the policeman. He broke off one end of it +and stuck it in his mouth. "I am hungry myself," he said when he +had his mouth clear. "Take the rest of it. It's appropriated." + +As an example of the prices charged for food and service by the +unscrupulous, we may quote the experience of a Los Angeles +millionaire named John Singleton, who had been staying a day or two +at the Palace Hotel. On Wednesday he had to pay $25 for an express +wagon to carry himself, his wife and her sister to the Casino, near +Golden Gate Park, and on Thursday was charged a dollar apiece for +eggs and a dollar for a loaf of bread. Others tell of having to +pay $50 for a ride to the ferry. + +One of the refugees on the shores of Lake Herced Thursday morning +spied a flock of ducks and swans which the city maintained there +for the decoration of the lake. He plunged into the lake, swam out +to them and captured a fat drake. Other men and boys saw the point +and followed. The municipal ducks were all cooking in five +minutes. + +The soldiers were prompt to take charge of the famine situation, +acting on their own responsibility in clearing out the supplies of +the little grocery stores left standing and distributing them among +the people in need. The principal food of those who remained in +the city was composed of canned goods and crackers. The refugees +who succeeded in getting out of San Francisco were met as soon as +they entered the neighboring towns by representatives of bakers who +had made large supplies of bread, and who immediately dealt them +out to the hungry people. + + +THE FOOD QUESTION URGENT. + + +But the needs of the three hundred thousand homeless and hungry +people in the city could not be met in this way, and immediate +supplies in large quantities were necessary to prevent a reign of +famine from succeeding the ravages of the fire. Danger from thirst +was still more insistent than that from hunger. There was some +food to be had, bakeries were quickly built within the military +reservation there, and General Funston announced that rations would +soon reach the city and the people would be supplied from the +Presidio. But there was scarcely any water to relieve the thirst +of the suffering. Water became the incessant cry of firemen and +people alike, the one wanting it to fight the fire, the other to +drink, but even for the latter the supply was very scant. There +was water in plenty in the reservoirs, but they were distant and +difficult to reach, and all night of the day succeeding the earth +shock wagons mounted with barrels and guarded by soldiers drove +through the park doling out water. There was a steady crush around +these wagons, but only one drink was allowed to a person. + +Toward midnight a black, staggering body of men began to weave +through the entrance. They were volunteer fire-fighters, looking +for a place to throw themselves down and sleep. These men dropped +out all along the line, and were rolled out of the driveways by the +troops. There was much splendid unselfishness here. Women gave up +their blankets and sat up or walked about all night to cover the +exhausted men who had fought fire until there was no more fight in +them. + +The common destitution and suffering had, as we have said, wiped +out all social, financial and racial distinctions. The man who +last Tuesday was a prosperous merchant was obliged to occupy with +his family a little plot of ground that adjoined the open-air home +of a laborer. The white man of California forgot his antipathy to +the Asiatic race, and maintained friendly relations with his new +Chinese and Japanese neighbors. The society belle who Tuesday +night was a butterfly of fashion at the grand opera performance now +assisted some factory girl in the preparation of humble daily +meals. Money had little value. The family that had had foresight +to lay in the largest stock of foodstuffs on the first day of +disaster was rated highest in the scale of wealth. + +A few of the families that could secure wagons were possessors of +cook stoves, but over 95 per cent. of the refugees did their +cooking on little campfires made of brick or stone. Battered +kitchen utensils that the week before would have been regarded as +useless had become articles of high value. In fact, man had come +back to nature and all lines of caste had been obliterated, while +the very thought of luxury had disappeared. It was, in the +exigency of the moment, considered good fortune to have a scant +supply of the barest necessaries of life. + +As for clothing, it was in many cases of the scantiest, while +numbers of the people had brought comfortable clothing and bedding. +Many others had fled in their night garbs, and comparatively few of +these had had the self-possession to return and don their daytime +clothes. As a result there had been much improvisation of garments +suitable for life in the open air, and as the days went on many of +the women arrayed themselves in home-made bloomer costumes, a +sensible innovation under the circumstances and in view of the +active outdoor work they were obliged to perform. + +The grave question to be faced at this early stage was: How soon +would an adequate supply of food arrive from outside points to +avert famine? Little remained in San Francisco beyond the area +swept by the fire, and the available supply could not last more +than a few days. Fresh meat disappeared early on Wednesday and +only canned foods and breadstuffs were left. All the foodstuffs +coming in on the cars were at once seized by order of the Mayor and +added to the scanty supply, the names of the consignees being taken +that this material might eventually be paid for. The bakers agreed +to work their plants to their utmost capacity and to send all their +surplus output to the relief committee. By working night and day +thousands of loaves could be provided daily. A big bakery in the +saved district started its ovens and arranged to bake 50,000 loaves +before night. The provisions were taken charge of by a committee +and sent to the various depots from which the people were being +fed. Instructions were issued by Mayor Schmitz on Thursday to +break open every store containing provisions and to distribute them +to the thousands under police supervision. A policeman reported +that two grocery stores in the neighborhood were closed, although +the clerks were present. "Smash the stores open," ordered the +Mayor, "and guard them." In towns across the bay the master bakers +have met and fixed the price of bread at 5 cents the loaf, with the +understanding that they will refuse to sell to retailers who +attempt to charge famine prices. The committee of citizens in +charge of the situation in the stricken city proposed to use every +effort to keep food down to the ordinary price and check the +efforts of speculators, who in one instance charged as much as +$3.50 for two loaves of bread and a can of sardines. Orders were +issued by the War Department to army officers to purchase at Los +Angeles immediately 200,000 rations and at Seattle 300,000 rations +and hurry them to San Francisco. The department was informed that +there were 120,000 rations at the Presidio, that thousands of +refugees were being sheltered there and that the army was feeding +them. One million rations already had been started to San +Francisco by the department. But in view of the fact that there +were 300,000 fugitives to be fed the supply available was likely to +be soon exhausted. + + +FOOD FOR THE HUNGRY. + + +Such was the state of affairs at the end of the second day of the +great disaster. But meanwhile the entire country had been aroused +by the tidings of the awful calamity, the sympathetic instinct of +Americans everywhere was awakened, and it was quickly made evident +that the people of the stricken city would not be allowed to suffer +for the necessaries of life. On all sides money was contributed in +large sums, the United States Government setting the example by an +immediate appropriation of $1,000,000, and in the briefest possible +interval relief trains were speeding toward the stricken city from +all quarters, carrying supplies of food, shelter tents and other +necessaries of a kind that could not await deliberate action. + +Shelter was needed almost as badly as food, for a host of the +refugees had nothing but their thin clothing to cover them, and, +though the weather at first was fine and mild, a storm might come +at any time. In fact, a rain did come, a severe one, early in the +week after the disaster, pouring nearly all night long on the +shivering campers in the parks, wetting them to the skin and +soaking through the rudely improvised shelters which many of the +refugees had put up. A few days afterward came a second shower, +rendering still more evident the need of haste in providing +suitable shelter. + +All this was foreseen by those in charge, and the most strenuous +efforts were made to provide the absolute necessities of life. +Huge quantities of supplies were poured into the city. From all +parts of California trainloads of food were rushed there in all +haste. A steamer from the Orient laden with food reached the city +in its hour of need; another was dispatched in all haste from +Tacoma bearing $25,000 worth of food and medical supplies, ordered +by Mayor Weaver, of Philadelphia, as a first installment of that +city's contribution. Money was telegraphed from all quarters to +the Governor of California, to be expended for food and other +supplies, and so prompt was the response to the insistent demand +that by Saturday all danger of famine was at an end; the people +were being fed. + + +WATER FOR THE THIRSTY. + + +The broken waterpipes were also repaired with all possible haste, +the Spring Valley Water Company putting about one thousand men at +work upon their shattered mains, and in a very brief time water +began to flow freely in many parts of the residence section and the +great difficulty of obtaining food and water was practically at an +end. Never in the history of the country has there been a more +rapid and complete demonstration of the resourcefulness of +Americans than in the way this frightful disaster was met. + +Food, water and shelter were not the only urgent needs. At first +there was absolutely no sanitary provision, and the danger of an +epidemic was great. This was a peril which the Board of Health +addressed itself vigorously to meet, and steps for improving the +sanitary conditions were hastily taken. Quick provision for +sheltering the unfortunates was also made. Eight temporary +structures, 150 feet in length by 28 feet wide and 13 feet high, +were erected in Golden Gate Park, and in these sheds thousands +found reasonably comfortable quarters. This was but a beginning. +More of these buildings were rapidly erected, and by their aid the +question of shelter was in part solved. The buildings were divided +into compartments large enough to house a family, each compartment +having an entrance from the outside. This work was done under the +control of the engineering department of the United States army, +which had taken steps to obtain a full supply of lumber and had put +135 carpenters to work. Those of the refugees who were without +tents were the first to be provided for in these temporary +buildings. + + +THE CAMPS IN THE PARKS. + + +To those who made an inspection of the situation a few days after +the earthquake, the hills and beaches of San Francisco looked like +an immense tented city. For miles through the park and along the +beaches from Ingleside to the sea wall at North Beach the homeless +were camped in tents--makeshifts rigged up from a few sticks of +wood and a blanket or sheet. Some few of the more fortunate +secured vehicles on which they loaded regulation tents and were, +therefore, more comfortably housed than the great majority. Golden +Gate Park and the Panhandle looked like one vast campaign ground. +It is said that fully 100,000 persons, rich and poor alike, sought +refuge in Golden Gate Park alone, and 200,000 more homeless ones +located at the other places of refuge. + +At the Presidio military reservation, where probably 50,000 persons +were camped, affairs were conducted with military precision. Water +was plentiful and rations were dealt out all day long. The +refugees stood patiently in line and there was not a murmur. This +characteristic was observable all over the city. The people were +brave and patient, and the wonderful order preserved by them proved +of great assistance. In Golden Gate Park a huge supply station had +been established and provisions were dealt out. + +Six hundred men from the Ocean Shore Railway arrived on Saturday +night with wagons and implements to work on the sewer system. +Inspectors were kept going from house to house, examining chimneys +and issuing permits to build fires. In fact, activity manifested +itself in all quarters in the attempt to bring order out of +confusion, and in an astonishingly short time the tented city was +converted from a scene of wretched disorder into one of order and +system. + +At Jefferson Park were camped thousands of people of every class in +life. On the western edge of this park is the old Scott house, +where Mrs. McKinley lay sick for two weeks in 1901. Three times a +day the people all gathered in line before the provision wagons for +their little handouts. "Yesterday," says an observer, "I saw, in +order before the wagons, a Lascar sailor in his turban, about as +low a Chinatown bum as I ever set eyes on, a woman of refined +appearance, a barefooted child, two Chinamen, and a pretty girl. +They were squeezed up together by the line, which extended for a +quarter of a mile. It is civilization in the bare bones. + +"The great and rich are on a level with the poor in the struggle +for bare existence, and over them all is the perfect, unbroken +discipline of the soldiery. They came into the city and took +charge on an hour's notice, they saved the city from itself in the +three days of hell, and but for them the city, even with enough +provisions to feed them in the stores and warehouses, must have +gone hungry for lack of distributive organization." + + +COMEDY AND PATHOS IN THE BREAD LINE. + + +At one of the parks on Tuesday morning a handsomely dressed woman +with two children at her skirts stood in a line of many hundreds +where supplies were being given out. She took some uncooked bacon, +and as she reached for it jewels sparkled on her fingers. One of +the tots took a can of condensed milk, the other a bag of cakes. + +"I have money," she said, "'if I could get it and use it. I have +property, if I could realize on it. I have friends, if I could get +to them. Meantime I am going to cook this piece of bacon on bricks +and be happy." + +She was only one of thousands like her. + +In a walk through the city this note of cheerfulness of the people +in the face of an almost incredible week of horror was to a +correspondent the mitigating element to the awfulness of disaster. + +In the streets of the residential district in the western addition, +which the fire did not reach, women of the houses were cooking +meals on the pavement. In most cases they had moved out the family +ranges, and were preparing the food which they had secured from the +Relief Committee. + +Out on Broderick street, near the Panhandle, a piano sounded. It +was nigh ten o'clock and the stars were shining after the rain. +Fires gleamed up and down through the shrubbery and the refugees +sat huddled together about the flames, with their blankets about +their heads, Apache-like, in an effort to dry out after the wetting +of the afternoon. The piano, dripping with moisture, stood on the +curb, near the front of a cottage which had been wrecked by the +earthquake. + +A youth with a shock of red hair sat on a cracker box and pecked at +the ivories. "Home Ain't Nothing Like This" was thrummed from the +rusting wires with true vaudeville dash and syncopation. "Bill +Bailey," "Good Old Summer Time," "Dixie" and "In Toyland" followed. +Three young men with handkerchiefs wrapped about their throats in +lieu of collars stood near the pianist and with him lifted up their +voices in melody. The harmony was execrable, the time without +excuse, but the songs ran through the trees of the Panhandle, and +the crows, forgetting their misery for a time, joined the strange +chorus. + +The people had their tales of comedy, one being that on the morning +of the fire a richly dressed woman who lived in one of the +aristocratic Sutter Street apartments came hurrying down the +street, faultlessly gowned as to silks and sables, save that one +dainty foot was shod with a high-heeled French slipper and the +other was incased in a laborer's brogan. They say that as she +walked she careened like a bark-rigged ship before a typhoon. + +An hour spent behind the counter of the food supply depot in the +park tennis court yielded rich reward to the seeker after the +outlandish. The tennis court was piled high with the plunder of +several grocery stores and the cargoes of many relief cars. A +square cut in the wire screen permitted of the insertion of a +counter, behind which stood members of the militia acting as food +dispensers. Before the improvised window passed the line of +refugees, a line which stretched back fully 300 yards to Speedway +track. + +"I want a can of condensed cream, so I can feed my baby and my +dog," said a large, florid-faced woman in a gaudy kimono, "and I +don't care for crackers, but you can throw in some potted chicken +if you have it." + +"What's in that bottle over there?" queried the next applicant. +"Tomato ketchup? Well, of all the luck! Say, young man, just give +me three." + +A little gray-haired woman in an India shawl peered timorously +through the window. "Just a little bit of anything you may have +handy, please," she whispered, and she cast a careful eye about to +see of any of her neighbors had recognized her standing there in +the "bread line." + +"Yesterday, at the Western Union office," says one writer, "I saw a +woman drive up in a large motor car and beg that the telegram on +which a boy had asked a delivery fee of twenty-five cents be handed +to her. She said she had not a penny and did not know when she +would have any money, but that as soon as she had any she would pay +for the message. It was given to her, and the manager told me that +there were hundreds of similar cases." + +Many weddings resulted from the disaster. Women driven out of +their homes and left destitute, appealed to the men to whom they +were engaged, and immediate marriages took place. After the first +day of the disaster an increase in the marriage licenses issued was +noticed by County Clerk Cook. This increase grew until seven +marriage licenses were issued in an hour. + +"I don't live anywhere," was the answer given in many cases when +the applicant for a license was asked the locality of his +residence. "I used to live in San Francisco." + +Births seem to have been about as common as marriages, in one night +five children being born in Golden Gate Park. In Buena Vista Park +eight births were recorded and others elsewhere, the population +being thus increased at a rate hardly in accordance with the +exigencies of the situation. + + +THE EXODUS FROM SAN FRANCISCO. + + +We have spoken only of the camps of refugees within the municipal +limits of San Francisco. But in addition to these was the +multitude of fugitives who made all haste to escape from that city. +This was with the full consent of the authorities, who felt that +every one gone lessened the immediate weight upon themselves, and +who issued a strict edict that those who went must stay, that there +could be no return until a counter edict should be made public. + +From the start this was one of the features of the situation. Down +Market Street, once San Francisco's pride, now leading through +piles of tottering walls, piles of still hot bricks and twisted +iron and heaps of smouldering debris, poured a huge stream of +pedestrians. Men bending under the weight of great bundles pushed +baby carriages loaded with bric-a-brac and children. Women toiled +along with their arms full, but a large proportion were able to +ride, for the relief corps had been thoroughly organized and wagons +were being pressed into service from all sides. + +In constant procession they moved toward the ferry, whence the +Southern Pacific was transporting them with baggage free wherever +they wished to go. Automobiles meanwhile shot in all directions, +carrying the Red Cross flag and usually with a soldier carrying a +rifle in the front seat. They had the right of way everywhere, +carrying messages and transporting the ill to temporary hospitals +and bearing succor to those in distress. + +Oakland, the nearest place of resort, on the bay shore opposite San +Francisco, soon became a great city of refuge, fugitives gathering +there until 50,000 or more were sheltered within its charitable +limits. Having suffered very slightly from the earthquake that had +wrecked the great city across the bay, it was in condition to offer +shelter to the unfortunate. All day Wednesday and Thursday a +stream of humanity poured from the ferries, every one carrying +personal baggage and articles saved from the conflagration. +Hundreds of Chinese men, women and children, all carrying baggage +to the limit of their strength, made their way into the limited +Chinatown of Oakland. + +Multitudes of persons besieged the telegraph offices, and the crush +became so great that soldiers were stationed at the doors to keep +them in line and allow as many as possible to find standing room at +the counters. Messages were stacked yards high in the offices +waiting to be sent throughout the world. Every boat from San +Francisco brought hundreds of refugees, carrying luggage and +bedding in large quantities. Many women were bareheaded and all +showed fatigue as the result of sleeplessness and exposure to the +chill air. Hundreds of these persons lined the streets of Oakland, +waiting for some one to provide them with shelter, for which the +utmost possible provision was quickly made. No one was allowed to +go hungry in Oakland and few lacked shelter. At the Oakland First +Presbyterian Church 1,800 were fed and 1,000 people were provided +with sleeping accommodations. Pews were turned into beds. Cots +stood in the aisles, in the gallery and in the Sunday school room. +Every available inch of space was occupied by some substitute for a +bed. + +As the days wore on the number of refugees somewhat decreased. +Although they still came in large numbers, many left on every train +for different points. Requests for free transportation were +investigated as closely as possible and all the deserving were sent +away. Women and children and married men who wished to join their +families in different parts of the State were given preference. +The transportation bureau was on a street corner, where a man stood +on a box and called the names of those entitled to passes. + +Along the principal streets of Oakland there was a picturesque +pilgrimage of former householders, who dragged or carried the +meagre effects they had been able to save. The refugees who could +not be cared for in Oakland made an exodus to Berkeley and other +surrounding cities, where relief committees were actively at work. +Utter despair was pictured on many faces, which showed the effects +of sleepless days and nights, and the want of proper food. + +Oakland was only one of the outside camps of refuge. At Berkeley +over 6,000 refugees sought quarters, the big gymnasium of the State +University being turned into a lodging house, while hundreds were +provided with blankets to sleep in the open air under the +University oaks. The students and professors of the University did +all they could for their relief, and the Citizens' Relief Committee +supplied them with food. + +The same benevolent sympathy was manifested at all the places near +the ruined city which had escaped disaster, this aid materially +reducing that needed within San Francisco itself. + + +WORSHIP IN THE OPEN AIR. + + +Sunday dawned in San Francisco; Sunday in the camp of the refugees. +On a green knoll in Golden Gate Park, between the conservatory and +the tennis courts, a white-haired minister of the Gospel gathered +his flock. It was the Sabbath day and in the turmoil and confusion +the minister did not forget his duty. Two upright stakes and a +cross-piece gave him a rude pulpit, and beside him stood a young +man with a battered brass cornet. Far over the park stole a melody +that drew hundreds of men and women from their tents. Of all +denominations and all creeds, they gathered on that green knoll, +and the men uncovered while the solemn voice repeated the words of +a grand old hymn, known wherever men and women meet to worship the +Lord: + + +"Other refuge have I none, hangs my helpless soul on Thee; +Leave, oh, leave me not alone, still support and comfort me!" + + +A moment before there had been shouting and confusion in the +driveway where some red-striped artillerymen were herding a squad +of gesticulating Chinamen as men herd sheep. The shouting died +away as the minister's voice rose and fell and out of the stillness +came the sobs of women. One little woman in blue was making no +sound, but the tears were streaming down her cheeks. Her husband, +a sturdy young fellow in his shirt sleeves, put his arm about her +shoulders and tried to comfort her as the reading went on. + + +"All my trust on Thee is stayed; all my help from Thee I bring; +Cover my defenseless head with the shadow of Thy wing." + + +Then the cornet took up the air again and those helpless persons +followed it in quivering tones, the white-haired man of God leading +them with closed eyes. When the last verse was over, the minister +raised his hands. + +"Let us pray," said he, and his congregation sank down in the grass +before him. It was a simple prayer, such a prayer as might be +offered by a man without a home or a shelter over his head--and +nothing left to him but an unshaken faith in his Creator. + +"Oh, Lord, Thy ways are past finding out, but we still have faith +in Thee. We know not why Thou hast visited these people and left +them homeless. Thou knowest the reason of this desolation and of +our utter helplessness. We call on Thee for help in the hour of +our great need. Bless the people of this city, the sorrowing ones, +the bereaved, gather them under Thy mighty wing and soothe aching +hearts this day." + +The women were crying again, and one big man dug his knuckles into +his eyes without shame. The man who could have listened to such a +prayer unmoved was not in Golden Gate Park that day. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +The Frightful Loss of Life and Wealth. + + +While multitudes escaped from toppling buildings and crashing walls +in the dread disaster of that fatal Wednesday morning of April 18th +in San Francisco, hundreds of the less fortunate met their death in +the ruins, and horrifying scenes were witnessed by the survivors. +Many of those who escaped had tales of terror to tell. Mr. J. P. +Anthony, as he fled from the Ramona Hotel, saw a score or more of +people crushed to death, and as he walked the streets at a later +hour saw bodies of the dead being carried in garbage wagons and all +kinds of vehicles to the improvised morgues, while hospitals and +storerooms were already filled with the injured. Mr. G. A. +Raymond, of Tomales, Cal., gives evidence to the same effect. As +he rushed into the street, he says that the air was filled with +falling stones and people around him were crushed to death on all +sides. + +Others gave testimony to the same effect. Samuel Wolf, of Salt +Lake City, tells us that he saved one woman from death in the +hotel. She was rushing blindly toward an open window, from which +she would have fallen fifty feet to the stone pavement below. "On +my way down Market Street," he says, "the whole side of a building +fell out and came so near me that I was covered and blinded by the +dust. Then I saw the first dead come by. They were piled up in an +automobile like carcasses in a butcher's wagon, all bloody, with +crushed skulls, broken limbs and bloody faces." + +These are frightful stories, exaggerated probably from the nervous +excitement of those terrible moments, as are also the following +statements, which form part of the early accounts of the disaster. +Thus we are told that "from a three-story lodging house at Fifth +and Minna Streets, which collapsed Wednesday morning, more than +seventy-five bodies were taken to-day. There are fifty other +bodies in sight in the ruins. This building was one of the first +to take fire on Fifth Street. At least 100 persons are said to +have been killed in the Cosmopolitan, on Fourth Street. More than +150 persons are reported dead in the Brunswick Hotel, at Seventh +and Mission Streets." + +Another statement is to the effect that "at Seventh and Howard +Streets a great lodging house took fire after the first shock, +before the guests had escaped. There were few exits and nearly all +the lodgers perished. Mrs. J. J. Munson, one of those in the +building, leaped with her child in her arms from the second floor +to the pavement below and escaped unhurt. She says she was the +only one who escaped from the house. Such horrors as this were +repeated at many points. B. Baker was killed while trying to get a +body from the ruins. Other rescuers heard the pitiful wail of a +little child, but were unable to get near the point from which the +cry issued. Soon the onrushing fire ended the cry and the men +turned to other tasks." + + +ESTIMATES OF THE DEATH LIST. + + +The questionable point in those statements is that the numbers of +dead spoken of in these few instances exceed the whole number given +in the official records issued two weeks after the disaster. Yet +they go to illustrate the actual horrors of the case, and are of +importance for this reason. As regards the whole number killed, in +fact, there is not, and probably never will be, a full and accurate +statement. While about 350 bodies had been recovered at the end of +the second week, it was impossible to estimate how many lay buried +under the ruins, to be discovered only as the work of excavation +went on, and how many more had been utterly consumed by the flames, +leaving no trace of their existence. The estimates of the probable +loss of life ran up to 1,500 and more, while the injured were very +numerous. + +The shock of the earthquake, the pulse of deep horror to which it +gave rise, the first wild impulse to flee for life, gave way in the +minds of many to a feeling of intense sympathy as agonized cries +came from those pinned down to the ruins of buildings or felled by +falling bricks or stones, and as the sight of dead bodies +incrimsoned with blood met the eyes of the survivors in the +streets. From wandering aimlessly about, many of these went +earnestly to work to rescue the wounded and recover the bodies of +the slain. In this merciful work the police and the soldiers lent +their aid, and soon there was a large corps of rescuers actively +engaged. + + +BURYING THE DEAD. + + +Soon numbers were taken, alive or dead, from the ruins, passing +vehicles were pressed into the service, and the labor of mercy went +on rapidly, several buildings being quickly converted into +temporary hospitals, while the dead were conveyed to the Mechanics' +Pavilion and other available places. Portsmouth Square became for +a time a public morgue. Between twenty and thirty corpses were +laid side by side upon the trodden grass in the absence of more +suitable accommodations. It is said that when the flames +threatened to reach the square, the dead, mostly unknown, were +removed to Columbia Square, where they were buried when danger +threatened that quarter. Others were taken to the Presidio, and +here the soldiers pressed into service all men who came near and +forced them to labor at burying the dead, a temporary cemetery +being opened there. So thick were the corpses piled up that they +were becoming a menace, and early in the day the order was issued +to bury them at any cost. The soldiers were needed for other work, +so, at the point of rifles, the citizens were compelled to take to +the work of burying. Some objected at first, but the troops stood +no trifling, and every man who came within reach was forced to +work. Rich men, unused to physical exertion, labored by the side +of the workingmen digging trenches in which to bury the dead. The +able-bodied being engaged in fighting the flames, General Funston +ordered that the old men and the weaklings should take the work in +hand. They did it willingly enough, but had they refused the +troops on guard would have forced them. It was ruled that every +man physically capable of handling a spade or a pick should dig for +an hour. When the first shallow graves were ready the men, under +the direction of the troops, lowered the bodies, several in a +grave, and a strange burial began. The women gathered about +crying. Many of them knelt while a Catholic priest read the burial +service and pronounced absolution. All Thursday afternoon this +went on. + +In this connection the following stories are told: + +Dr. George V. Schramm, a young medical graduate, said: + +"As I was passing down Market Street with a new-found friend, an +automobile came rushing along with two soldiers in it. My doctor's +badge protected me, but the soldiers invited my companion, a husky +six-footer, to get into the automobile. He said: + +"'I don't want to ride, and have plenty of business to attend to.' + +"Once more they invited him, and he refused. One of the soldiers +pointed a gun at him and said: + +"'We need such men as you to save women and children and to help +fight the fire.' + +"The man was on his way to find his sister, but he yielded to the +inevitable. He worked all day with the soldiers, and when released +to get lunch he felt that he could conscientiously desert to go and +find his own loved ones." + +"Half a block down the street the soldiers were stopping all +pedestrians without the official pass which showed that they were +on relief business, and putting them to work heaving bricks off the +pavement. Two dapper men with canes, the only clean people I saw, +were caught at the corner by a sergeant, who showed great joy as he +said: + +"'I give you time to git off those kid gloves, and then hustle, +damn you, hustle!' The soldiers took delight in picking out the +best dressed men and keeping them at the brick piles for long +terms. I passed them in the shelter of a provision wagon, afraid +that even my pass would not save me. Two men are reported shot +because they refused to turn in and help." + +Many of the dead, of course, will never be identified, though the +names were taken of all who were known and descriptions written of +the others. A story comes to us of one young girl who had followed +for two days the body of her father, her only relative. It had +been taken from a house on Mission Street to an undertaker's shop +just after the quake. The fire drove her out with her charge, and +it was placed in Mechanics' Pavilion. That went, and the body +rested for a day at the Presidio, waiting burial. With many +others, she wept on the border of the burned area, while the women +cared for her. + + +VICTIMS TAKEN FROM THE RUINS. + + +On Friday eleven postal clerks, all alive, were taken from the +debris of the Post Office. All at first were thought to be dead, +but it was found that, although they were buried under the stone +and timber, every one was alive. They had been for three days +without food or water. + +Two theatrical people were in a hotel in Santa Rosa when the shock +came. The room was on the fourth floor. The roof collapsed. One +of them was thrown from the bed and both were caught by the +descending timbers and pinned helplessly beneath the debris. They +could speak to each other and could touch one another's hands, but +the weight was so great that they could do nothing to liberate +themselves. After three hours rescuers came, cut a hole in the +roof and both were released uninjured. + +Even the docks were converted into hospitals in the stringent +exigency of the occasion, about 100 patients being stretched on +Folsom street dock at one time. In the evening tugs conveyed them +to Goat Island, where they were lodged in the hospital. The docks +from Howard Street to Folsom Street had been saved, the fire at +this point not being permitted to creep farther east than Main +Street. Another series of fatalities occurred, caused by the +stampeding of a herd of cattle at Sixth and Folsom Streets. Three +hundred of the panic-stricken animals ran amuck when they saw and +felt the flames and charged wildly down the street, trampling under +foot all who were in the way. One man was gored through and +through by a maddened bull. At least a dozen persons', it is said, +were killed, though probably this is an overestimate. One observer +tells us that "the first sight I saw was a man with blood streaming +from his wounds, carrying a dead woman in his arms. He placed the +body on the floor of the court at the Palace Hotel, and then told +me he was the janitor of a big building. The first he knew of the +catastrophe he found himself in the basement, his dead wife beside +him. The building had simply split in two, and thrown them down." + +In the camps of refuge the deaths came frequently. Physicians were +everywhere in evidence, but, without medicine or instruments, were +fearfully handicapped. Men staggered in from their herculean +efforts at the fire lines, only to fall gasping on the grass. +There was nothing to be done. Injured lay groaning. Tender hands +were willing, but of water there was none. "Water, water, for +God's sake get me some water," was the cry that struck into +thousands of souls of San Francisco. + +The list of dead was not confined to San Francisco, but extended +to many of the neighboring towns, especially to Santa Rosa, where +sixty were reported dead and a large number missing, and to the +insane asylum in its vicinity, from the ruins of which a hundred +or more of dead bodies were taken. + + +THE FREE USE OF RIFLES. + + +A citizen tells us that "in the early part of the evening, and +while the twilight lasts, there is a good deal of trafficking up +and down the sidewalks. Having finished their dinners of government +provisions, cooked on the street or in the parks, the people +promenade for half an hour or so. By half-past eight the town +is closed tight. A rat scurrying in the street will bring a +soldier's rifle to his shoulder. Any one not wearing a uniform +or a Red Cross badge is a suspicious character and may be shot +unless he halts at command. Even the men in uniform do well to +stop still, for it is hard to tell a uniform in the half light +thrown up by the burning town and the great shadows. + +"Last night two of us ventured out on Van Ness Avenue a little late. +There came up the noise of some kind of a shooting scrape far down +the street. We hurried in that direction to see what was doing. +An eighteen-year-old boy in a uniform barred the way, levelled his +rifle and said in a peremptory way: + +"'Go home.' + +"We took a course down the block, where an older soldier, more +communicative but equally peremptory, informed us that we were +trifling with our lives, news or no news. + +"'We've shot about 300 people for one thing or another,' he said. +'Now, dodge trouble. Git!' That ended the expedition." + + +THE LOSS IN WEALTH. + + +If we pass now from the record of the loss of lives to that of the +destruction of wealth, the estimates exceed by far any fire losses +recorded in history. + +The truth is that when flames eat out the heart of a great city, +devour its vast business establishments, storehouses and +warehouses, sweep through its centres of opulence, destroy its +wharves with their accumulation of goods, spread ruin and havoc +everywhere, it is impossible at first to estimate the loss. Only +gradually, as time goes on, is the true loss discovered, and never +perhaps very + +accurately, since the owners and the records of riches often +disappear with the wealth itself. In regard to San Francisco, the +early estimate was that three-fourths of the city, valued at +$500,000,000, was destroyed. + +But early estimates are apt to be exaggerated, and on Friday, two +days after the disaster, we find this estimate reduced to +$250,000,000. A few more days passed and these figures shrunk +still further, though it was still largely conjectural, the means +of making a trustworthy estimate being very restricted. Later on +the pendulum + +swung upward again, and two weeks after the fire the closest +estimates that could be made fixed the property loss at close to +$350,000,000, or double that of the Chicago fire. But as the +actual loss in the latter case proved considerably below the early +estimates, the same may prove to be the case with San Francisco. + +Special personal losses were in many cases great. Thus the Palace +Hotel was built at a cost of $6,000,000, and the St. Francis, which +originally cost $4,000,000, was being enlarged at great expense. +Several of the great mansions on Nob's Hill cost a million or more, +the City Hall was built at a cost of $7,000,000, the new Post +Office was injured to the extent of half a million, while a large +number of other buildings might be named whose value, with their +contents, was measured in the millions. + +It was not until May 3d that news came over the wires of another +serious item of loss. The merchants had waited until then for +their fire-proof safes and vaults to cool off before attempting to +open them. When this was at length done the results proved +disheartening. Out of 576 vaults and safes opened in the district +east of Powell and north of Market Street, where the flames had +raged with the greatest fury, it was found that fully forty per +cent. had not performed their duty. When opened they were found to +contain nothing but heaps of ashes. The valuable account books, +papers and in some cases large sums of money had vanished, the loss +of the accounts being a severe calamity in a business sense. As +all the banks were equipped with the best fire-proof vaults, no +fear was felt for the safety of their contents. + + +LOOTERS IN CHINATOWN. + + +Chinatown suffered severely, the merchants of that locality +possessing large stocks of valuable goods, many of which were +looted by seemingly respectable sightseers after the ruins had +cooled off, bronze, porcelain and other valuable goods being taken +from the ruins. One example consisted in a mass of gold and silver +valued at $2,500, which had been melted by the fire in the store of +Tai Sing, a Chinese merchant. This was found by the police on May +3d in a place where it had been hidden by looters. + +But with all its losses San Francisco does not despair. The spirit +of its citizens is heroic, and there are some hopeful signs in the +air. The insurances due are estimated to approximate $175,000,000, +and there are other moneys likely to be spent on building during +the coming year, making a total of over $200,000,000. Eastern +capitalists also talk of investing $100,000,000 of new capital in +the rebuilding of the city, while the San Francisco authorities +have a project of issuing $200,000,000 of municipal bonds, the +payment to be guaranteed by the United States Government. Thus, +two weeks after the earthquake, daylight was already showing +strongly ahead and hope was fast beginning to replace despair. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Wonderful Record of Thrilling Escapes. + + +Shuddering under the memories of what seems more like a nightmare +than actual reality to the survivors of this frightful calamity, +they have tried to picture in words far from adequate the days of +terror and the nights of horror that fell to the lot of the people +of the Golden Gate city and their guests. + +They recount the roar of falling structures and the groans and +pitiful cries of those pinned beneath the timbers of collapsing +buildings. They speak of their climbing over dead bodies heaped in +the streets, and of following tortuous ways to find the only avenue +of escape--the ferry, where men and women fought like infuriated +animals, bent on escape from a fiery furnace. + +These refugees tell of the great caravan composed of homeless +persons in its wild flight to the hills for safety, and in that +great procession women, harnessed to vehicles, trudging along and +tugging at the shafts, hauling all that was left of their earthly +belongings, and a little food that foresight told them would be +necessary to stay the pangs of hunger in the hours of misery that +must follow. + +We give below an especially accurate picture from the description +of the well-known writer, Jane Tingley, who, an eye-witness of it +all, did so much to help the sufferers, and who, with all the +unselfishness of true American womanhood, sacrificed her own +comfort and needs for those of others. + +"May God be merciful to the women and children in this land of +desolation and despair!" she wrote on April 21st. + +"Men have done, are doing such deeds of sublime self-sacrifice, of +magnificent heroism, that deserve to make the title of American +manhood immortal in the pages of history. The rest lies with the +Almighty. + +"I spent all of last night and to-day in that horror city across +the bay. I went from this unharmed city of plenty, blooming with +abounding health, thronged with happy mothers and joyous children, +and spent hours among the blackened ruins and out on the windswept +slopes of the sand hills by the sea, and I heard the voice of +Rachel weeping for her children in the wilderness and mourning +because she found them not. + +"I climbed to the top of Strawberry Hill, in Golden Gate Park, and +saw a woman, half naked, almost starving, her hair dishevelled and +an unnatural lustre in her eyes, her gaze fixed upon the waters in +the distance, and her voice repeating over and over again: 'Here I +am, my pretties; come here, come here.' + +"I took her by the hand and led her down to the grass at the foot +of the hill. A man--her husband--received her from me and wept as +he said: 'She is calling our three little children. She thinks the +sounds of the ocean waves are the voices of our lost darlings.' + +"Ever since they became separated from their children in that first +terrific onrush of the multitude when the fire swept along Mission +Street these two had been tramping over the hills and parks without +food or rest, searching for their little ones. To all whom they +have met they have addressed the same pitiful question: 'Have you +seen anything of our lost babies?' They will not know what has +become of them until order has been brought out of chaos; until the +registration headquarters of the military authorities has secured +the names of all who are among the straggling wanderers around the +camps of the homeless. Perhaps then it will be found that these +children are in a trench among the corpses of the weaklings who +have succumbed to the frightful rigors of the last three days. + +"Last night a soldier seized me by the arm and cried: 'If you are a +woman with a woman's heart, go in there and do whatever you can.' + +"'In there' meant behind a barricade of brush, covered with a +blanket that had been hastily thrown together to form a rude +shelter. I went in and saw one of my own sex lying on the bare +grass naked, her clothing torn to shreds; scattered over the green +beside her. She was moaning pitifully, and it needed no words to +tell a woman what the matter was, I bade my man escort to find a +doctor, or at least send more women at once. He ran off and soon +two sympathetic ladies hastened into the shelter. In an hour my +escort returned with a young medical student. Under the best +ministrations we could find, a new life was ushered into this hell, +which, a few hours before, was the fairest among cities. + +"'There have been many such cases,' said the medical student. +"Many of the mothers have died--few of the babies have lived. I, +personally, know of nine babies that have been born in the park to- +day. There must have been many others here, among the sand hills, +and at the Presidio." + +"Think of it, you happy women who have become mothers in +comfortable homes, attended with every care that loving hands can +bestow. Think of the dreadful plight of these poor members of your +sex. The very thought of it is enough to make the hearts of women +burst with pity. + +"To-day I walked among the people crowded on the Panhandle. +Opposite the Lyon Street entrance, on the north side, I saw a young +woman sitting tailor-fashion in the roadway, which, in happier +days, was the carriage boulevard. She held a dishpan and was +looking at her reflection in the polished bottom, while another +girl was arranging her hair. I recognized a young wife, whose +marriage to a prominent young lawyer eight months ago was a gala +event among that little handful of people who clung to the old-time +fashionable district of Valencia Street, like the Phelan and Dent +families, and refused to move from that aristocratic section when +the new-made, millionaires began to build their palaces on Nob Hill +and Pacific Heights. I spoke to the young woman about the +disadvantages of making her toilet under such untoward +circumstances. + +"'Ah, Julia, dear, you must stay to luncheon,' she said, extending +her fingers just as though she stood in her own drawing-room. + + +MISERY DRIVES SOME INSANE. + + +"I looked at the maid in astonishment, for I had never met the +young society woman before. The maid shook her head and whispered +when she got the chance: + +"'My mistress is not in her right mind.' + +"'Where is her husband?' I asked. + +"'He has gone to try to get some food,' said the girl. 'She +imagines that she is in her own home, before her dressing table, +and is having me do up her hair against some of her friends +dropping in.' + +"'She must have suffered,' I said, 'to cause such a mental +derangement.' + +"The girl's eyes filled with tears. She told me that her mistress +had seen her brother killed by falling timbers while they were +hurrying to a place of safety. A little farther on I saw two women +concealed as best they might be behind a tuft of sand brush, one +lying face down on the ground, while the other vigorously massaged +her bare back. I asked if I might help, and learned that the +ministering angel was the unmarried daughter of one of the city's +richest merchants, and that the girl whom she succored had been +employed as a servant in her father's household. The girl's back +had been injured by a fall, and her mistress' fair hands were +trying to make her well again. + +"Thus has this overwhelming common woe levelled all barriers of +caste and placed the suffering multitude on a basis of democracy. +On a rock behind a manzanita bush near the edge of Stow Lake I saw +a Chinaman making a pile of broken twigs in the early morning. The +man felt inside his blouse and swore a gibbering, unintelligible +Asiatic oath as his hand came forth empty. Observing my escort, +the Chinaman approached and said: + +"'Bosse, alle same, catchee match?' + +"My escort gave him the desired article, and the Chinaman made a +fire of his pile of twigs. 'Why are you making a fire, John?' I +asked. + +"'Bleakfast,' he replied laconically. + +"I asked him where his food might be, and he gave us a quick glance +of suspicion as he said briefly, 'No sabbe.' + +"We stood watching him, evidently to his great distress, and +finally he made bold to say, 'You no stand lound, bosse. You go +'way.' + +"We left him, but after making the tour around the lake came back +to the same place. There sat four people on the ground eating +fried pork, potatoes and Chinese cakes. In a young woman of the +group I recognized one whom I had seen dancing at one of Mr. +Greenway's Friday Night Cotillion balls in the Palace Hotel's maple +room during the winter. They offered to share their meal with us, +but we told them that we had just come from breakfast in Oakland. +I told them about the strange conduct of their Chinaman, who was +traveling back and forth from his fire to the 'table' with the food +as it became ready to serve. + +"The father of the family laughed. + + +SOCIETY FOLKS COMPELLED TO CAMP. + + +'Yes,' he said, 'that is Charlie's way. He has been with us many +years, and when our home was destroyed he came out here with us in +preference to seeking refuge among his countrymen in Chinatown. +Yesterday we were without food, and Charlie disappeared. I thought +he had deserted us, but toward dark he came back with a bamboo pole +over his shoulder and a Chinese market gardener's basket suspended +from either end. In one of the baskets he had a pile of blankets +and a lot of canvas. In the other was an assortment of pork, +flour, Chinese cakes and vegetables, besides a half-dozen chickens +and a couple of bagfuls of rice. + +"'Charlie had been foraging in Chinatown for us before the fire +reached that quarter. He made a tent and improvised beds for us, +and he has the food concealed somewhere in the vicinity, but where +he will not tell us, for fear that we will give some of it to +others and reduce our own supply. Charlie boils rice for himself. +He will not touch the other food. Without him we should have been +starving.'" + +G. A. Raymond, who was in the Palace Hotel when the earthquake +occurred, says: + +"I had $600 in gold under my pillow. I awoke as I was thrown out +of bed. Attempting to walk, the floor shook so that I fell. I +grabbed my clothing and rushed down into the office, where dozens +were already congregated. Suddenly the lights went out, and every +one rushed for the door. + +"Outside I witnessed a sight I never want to see again. It was +dawn and light. I looked up. The air was filled with falling +stones. People around me were crushed to death on all sides. All +around the huge buildings were shaking and waving. Every moment +there were reports like 100 cannon going off at one time. Then +streams of fire would shoot out, and other reports followed. + +"I asked a man standing by me what had happened. Before he could +answer a thousand bricks fell on him and he was killed. A woman +threw her arms around my neck. I pushed her away and fled. All +around me buildings were rocking and flames shooting. As I ran +people on all sides were crying, praying and calling for help. I +thought the end of the world had come. + +"I met a Catholic priest, and he said: 'We must get to the ferry.' +He knew the way, and we rushed down Market Street. Men, women and +children were crawling from the debris. Hundreds were rushing down +the street, and every minute people were felled by falling debris. + +"At places the streets had cracked and opened. Chasms extended in +all directions. I saw a drove of cattle, wild with fright, rushing +up Market Street. I crouched beside a swaying building. As they +came nearer they disappeared, seeming to drop into the earth. When +the last had gone I went nearer and found they had indeed been +precipitated into the earth, a wide fissure having swallowed them. +I worked my way around them and ran out to the ferry. I was crazy +with fear and the horrible sights. + +"How I reached the ferry I cannot say. It was bedlam, pandemonium +and hell rolled into one. There must have been 10,000 people +trying to get on that boat. Men and women fought like wild cats to +push their way aboard. Clothes were torn from the backs of men and +women and children indiscriminately. Women fainted, and there was +no water at hand with which to revive them. Men lost their reason +at those awful moments. One big, strong man, beat his head against +one of the iron pillars on the dock, and cried out in a loud voice: +'This fire must be put out! The city must be saved!' It was +awful. + + +TERRIBLE SCENE AT THE FERRY. + + +"When the gates were opened the mad rush began. All were swept +aboard in an irresistible tide. We were jammed on the deck like +sardines in a box. No one cared. At last the boat pulled out. +Men and women were still jumping for it, only to fall into the +water and probably drown." + +The members of the Metropolitan Opera Company, of New York, were in +San Francisco at this time, and nearly all of these famous singers, +known all over the world, suffered from the great disaster. + +All of the splendid scenery, stage fittings, costumes and musical +instruments were lost in the fire, which destroyed the Grand Opera +House, where the season had just opened to splendid audiences. + +Many of the operatic stars have given very interesting accounts of +their experiences. Signor Caruso, the famous tenor and one of the +principals of the company, had one of the most thrilling +experiences. He and Signor Rossi, a favorite basso, and his +inseparable companion, had a suite on the seventh floor and were +awakened by the terrific shaking of the building. The shock nearly +threw Caruso out of bed. He said: + +"I threw open the window, and I think I let out the grandest notes +I ever hit in all my life. I do not know why I did this. I +presume I was too excited to do anything else. + + +GREAT SINGERS ESCAPE. + + +"Looking out of the window, I saw buildings all around rocking like +the devil had hold of them. I wondered what was going on. Then I +heard Rossi come scampering into my room. 'My God, it's an +earthquake!' he yelled. 'Get your things and run!' I grabbed what +I could lay my hands on and raced like a madman for the office. On +the way down I shouted as loud as I could so the others would wake +up. + +"When I got to the office I thought of my costumes and sent my +valet, Martino, back after them. He packed things up and carried +the trunks down on his back. I helped him take them to Union +Square." + +It is said that ten minutes later he was seen seated on his valise +in the middle of the street. But to continue his story: + +"I walked a few feet away to see how to get out, and when I came +back four Chinamen were lugging my trunks away. I grabbed one of +them by the ears, and the others jumped on me. I took out my +revolver and pointed it at them. They spit at me. I was mad, but +I hated to kill them, so I found a soldier, and he made them give +up the trunks. + +"Ah, that soldier was a fine fellow. He went up to the Chinamen +and slapped them upon the face, once, twice, three times. They all +howled like the devil and ran away. I put my revolver back into my +pocket, and then I thanked the soldier. He said: "'Don't mention +it. Them Chinks would steal the money off a dead man's eyes.'" + +They say that Rossi, though almost in tears, was heard trying his +voice at a corner near the Palace Hotel. + + +TEDDY'S PICTURE PROVES "OPEN SESAME." + + +"I went to Lafayette Square and slept on the grass. When I tried +to get into the square the soldiers pushed me back. I pleaded with +them, but they would not listen. I had under my arm a large +photograph of Theodore Roosevelt, upon which was written: 'With +kindest regards from Theodore Roosevelt.' I showed them this, and +one of them said: 'If you are a friend of Teddy, come in and make +yourself at home.' + +"I put my trunks in the cellar of the Hotel St. Francis and thought +they would be safe. The hotel caught fire, and my trunks were all +burned up. To think I took so much trouble to save them!" + +In spite of the news of all the woe and suffering which we hear, it +is cheering to learn also of the many thousands of heroic deeds by +brave men during the terrible scenes enacted through the four days +passing since the eventful morning when the earth began to demolish +splendid buildings of business and residence and fire sprang up to +complete the city's destruction. The Mayor and his forces of +police, the troops under command of General Funston, volunteer aids +to all these, and the husbands of terrified wives, and the sons, +brothers and other relatives who toiled for many consecutive hours +through smoke and falling walls and an inferno of flames and +explosions and traps of danger of all kinds, often without food or +water--toiling as men never toiled before to save life and relieve +distress of all kinds--all these were examples of heroism and +devotion to duty seldom witnessed in any scenes of terror in all +time. There are brave, unselfish men and heroic women yet in the +world, and all of the best of human nature has been exhibited in +large dimensions in the terrible disaster at San Francisco. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Disaster Spreads Over the Golden State + + +The first news that the world received of the earthquake came +direct from San Francisco and was confined largely to descriptions +of the disaster which had overwhelmed that city. It was so sudden, +so appalling, so tragic in its nature, that for the time being it +quite overshadowed the havoc and misery wrought in a number of +other California towns of lesser note. + +As the truth, however, became gradually sifted out of the tangle of +rumors, the horror, instead of being diminished, was vastly +increased. It became evident that instead of this being a local +catastrophe, the full force of the seismic waves had travelled from +Ukiah in the north to Monterey in the south, a distance of about +180 miles, and had made itself felt for a considerable distance +from the Pacific westward, wrecking the larger buildings of every +town in its path, rending and ruining as it went, and doing +millions of dollars worth of damage. + + +THE DESTRUCTION OF SANTA ROSA. + + +In Santa Rosa, sixty miles to the north of San Francisco, and one +of the most beautiful towns of California, practically every +building was destroyed or badly damaged. The brick and stone +business blocks, together with the public buildings, were thrown +down. The Court House, Hall of Records, the Occidental and Santa +Rosa Hotels, the Athenaeum Theatre, the new Masonic Temple, Odd +Fellows' Block, all the banks, everything went, and in all the city +not one brick or stone building was left standing, except the +California Northwestern Depot. + +In the residential portion of the city the foundations receded from +under the houses, badly wrecking about twenty of the largest and +damaging every one more or less; and here, as in San Francisco, +flames followed the earthquake, breaking out in a dozen different +places at once and completing the work of devastation. From the +ruins of the fallen houses fifty-eight bodies were taken out and +interred during the first few days, and the total of dead and +injured was close to a hundred. The money loss at this small city +is estimated at $3,000,000. + +The destruction of Santa Rosa gave rise to general sorrow among the +residents of the interior of the State. It was one of the show +towns of California, and not only one of the most prosperous cities +in the fine county of Sonoma, but one of the most picturesque in +the State. Surrounding it there were miles of orchards, vineyards +and corn fields. The beautiful drives of the city were adorned +with bowers of roses, which everywhere were seen growing about the +homes of the people. In its vicinity are the famous gardens of +Luther Burbank, the "California wizard," but these fortunately +escaped injury. + +At San Jose, another very beautiful city of over 20,000 population, +not a single brick or stone building of two stories or over was +left standing. Among those wrecked were the Hall of justice, just +completed at a cost of $300,000; the new High School, the +Presbyterian Church and St. Patrick's Cathedral. Numbers of people +were caught in the ruins and maimed or killed. The death list +appears to have been small, but the property damage was not less +than $5,000,000. The Agnew State Insane Asylum, in the vicinity of +San Jose, was entirely destroyed, more than half the inmates being +killed or injured. + + +THE STANFORD UNIVERSITY. + + +The Leland Stanford, Jr., University, at Palo Alto (about thirty +miles south of San Francisco), felt the full force of the +earthquake and was badly wrecked. Only two lives were lost as a +result of the earthquake, one of a student, the other of a fireman, +but eight students were injured more or less seriously. The damage +to the buildings is estimated by President Jordan to amount to +about $4,000,000. + +The memorial church, with its twelve marble figures of the +apostles, each weighing two tons, was badly injured by the fall of +its Gothic spire, which crashed through the roof and demolished +much of the interior; the great entrance archway was split in twain +and wrecked; so, too, were the library, the gymnasium and the power +house. A number of other buildings in the outer quadrangle and +some of the small workshops were seriously damaged. + +Encina Hall and the inner quadrangle were practically uninjured, +and the bulk of the books, collections and apparatus escaped +damage. + +Sacramento, together with all the smaller cities and towns that dot +the great Sacramento Valley for a distance fifty miles south and +150 miles north of the capital, escaped without injury, not a +single pane of glass being broken or a brick displaced in +Sacramento and no injury done in the other places, they lying +eastward of the seat of serious earthquake activity. + +Los Angeles and Santa Barbara escaped with a slight trembling; +Stockton, 103 miles north of San Francisco, felt a severe shock and +the Santa Fe bridge over the San Joaquin River at this point +settled several inches. The only place in Southern California that +suffered was Brawley, a small town lying 120 miles south of Los +Angeles, about 100 buildings in the town and the surrounding valley +being injured, though none of them were destroyed. + + +THE EARTHQUAKE AT OTHER CITIES. + + +At Alameda, on the bay opposite San Francisco, a score of chimneys +were shaken down and other injuries done. Railroad tracks were +twisted, and over 600 feet of track of the Oakland Transit +Company's railway sank four feet. The total damage done amounted +to probably $200,000, but no lives were lost. Tomales, a place of +350 inhabitants, was left a pile of ruins. + +At Los Panos several buildings were wrecked, causing damage to the +extent of $75,000, but no lives were lost. + +At Loma Prieta the earthquake caused a mine house to slip down the +side of a mountain, ten men being buried in the ruins. + +Fort Bragg, one of the principal lumbering towns in Mendocino +County, was practically wiped out by fire following the earthquake, +but out of a population of 5,000 only one was killed, though scores +were injured. + +The town of Berkeley, across the bay from San Francisco, suffered +considerable damage from twisted structures, fallen walls and +broken chimneys, the greatest injury being in the collapse of the +town hall and the ruin of the deaf and dumb asylum. The University +of California, situated here, was fortunate in escaping injury, it +being reported that not a building was harmed in the slightest +degree. Another public edifice of importance and interest, in a +different section of the State, the famous Lick Astronomical +Observatory, was equally fortunate, no damage being done to the +buildings or the instruments. + + +AT THE STATE UNIVERSITY. + + +Salinas, a town down the coast near Monterey, suffered severely, +the place being to a large extent destroyed, with an estimated loss +of over $1,000,000. The Spreckels' sugar factory and a score of +other buildings were reported ruined and a number of lives lost. +During the succeeding week several other shocks of some strength +were reported from this town. + +Thus the ruinous work of the earthquake stretched over a broad +track of prosperous, peaceful and happy country, embracing one of +the best sections of California, laying waste not only the towns in +its path, but doing much damage to ranch houses and country +residences. Strange manifestations of nature were reported from +the interior, where the ground was opened in many places like a +ploughed field. Great rents in the earth were reported, and for +many miles north from Los Angeles miniature geysers are said to +have spouted volcano-like streams of hot mud. + +Railroad tracks in some localities were badly injured, sinking or +lifting, and being put out of service until repaired. In fact, the +ruinous effects of the earthquake immensely exceeded those of any +similar catastrophe ever before known in the United States, and +when the destruction done by the succeeding conflagration in San +Francisco is taken into account the California earthquake of 1906 +takes rank with the most destructive of those recorded in history. + + + +CHAPTER X. + +All America and Canada to the Rescue + + +During the first three days after the terrible news had been +flashed over the world the relief fund from the nation had leaped +beyond the $5,000,000 mark. New York took the lead in the most +generous giving that the world has ever seen. From every town and +country village the people hastened to the Town Halls, the +newspaper offices and wherever help was to be found most quickly, +to add their savings and to sacrifice all but necessities for their +stricken fellow-countrymen. Never has there been such a practical +illustration of brotherly love. A perfect shower of gold and food +was poured out to the sufferers to give them immediate assistance +and to help them to a new start in life. All relief records were +broken within two days of the disaster, but still the purses of the +rich and poor alike continued to add to the huge contributions. +Though the relief records were broken, every succeeding dispatch +from the West told too plainly the terrible fact that all records +of necessity were also broken. + +Over the entire globe Americans wherever they were hastened to +cable or telegraph their bankers to add their share to the great +work. A large fund was at once started in London, and with +contributions of from $2,000 to $12,000 the sum was soon raised to +hundreds of thousands of dollars. + +Individual contributions of $100,000 were common. In addition to +John D. Rockefeller's gift of this sum, his company, the Standard +Oil, gave another $100,000. The Steel Corporation and Andrew +Carnegie each gave $100,000. From London William Waldorf Astor +cabled his American representative, Charles A. Peabody, to place +$100,000 at once at the disposal of Mayor Schmitz, of San +Francisco, which was done. The Dominion Government of Canada made +a special appropriation of $100,000 and the Canadian Bank of +Commerce, at Toronto, gave $10,000. And two of the great steamship +companies owned in Germany sent $25,000 each. + + +RIGHT OF WAY FOR FOOD TRAINS. + + +On nearly a dozen roads, two days before the fire was over, great +trains of freight cars loaded with foodstuffs were hastening at +express speed to San Francisco. They had the right of way on every +line. E. H. Harriman, in addition to giving $200,000 for the Union +Pacific, Southern Pacific and other Harriman roads, issued orders +that all relief trains bound for the desolated city should have +Precedence over all other business of the roads. + +Advices from many points indicated that at least 150 freight cars +loaded with the necessaries so eagerly awaited in San Francisco +were speeding there as fast as steam could drive them. In +addition, several steamers from other Pacific coast points, all +food-laden, were rushing toward the stricken city. + +The rapidity with which the various relief funds in every city grew +was almost magical. + +From corporations, firms, labor unions, religious societies, +individuals, rich and poor, money flowed. Even the children in the +schools gave their pennies. Every grade of society, every branch +of trade and commerce seemed inspired by a spirit of emulation in +giving. + +The United States Government at once voted a contribution of +$1,000,000, and government supplies were rushed from every post in +the West. + +The $1,000,000 government gift, which formed the nucleus of the +relief fund, was doubled on Saturday by a resolution appropriating +another, and a vote was taken on Monday to increase this sum to +$1,500,000, making a total government contribution of $2,500,000. +This was largely expended in supplies of absolute necessaries, +furnished from the stores of the War Department, and those first +sent being five carloads of army medical supplies from St. Louis. +A cargo of evaporated cream was also sent to use in the care of +little children, while the Red Cross Society shipped a carload of +eggs from Chicago. Dr. Edward Devine, special Red Cross agent in +San Francisco, was appointed to distribute these supplies. + + +CARGOES OF SUPPLIES. + + +Trainloads of other supplies were dispatched in all haste from +various points in the West and East, carrying provisions of all +kinds, tents, cots, clothing, bedding and a great variety of other +articles. A special train of twenty-six cars was dispatched from +Portland, Oregon, on Thursday night, conveying ten doctors, twenty +trained nurses and 800,000 pounds of provisions. Chicago sent +meat. Minneapolis sent flour, and, in fact, every part of the +country moved in the greatest haste for the relief of the stricken +city. + +There was urgent need of haste. On Friday, while the flames were +still making their way onward, General Funston telegraphed: "Famine +seems inevitable." The people of the country took a more hopeful +view of it, and by Saturday night the spectre of famine was +definitely driven from the field and food for all the fugitives was +within reach. + + +THE SYMPATHY OF THE PEOPLE AWAKES. + + +On all sides the people were awake and doing. In all the great +cities agencies to receive contributions were opened, and many of +the newspapers undertook the task of collecting and forwarding +supplies. The smaller towns were equally alert in furnishing their +quota to the good work, and from countryside and village +contributions were forwarded until the fund accumulated to an +unprecedented amount. Collections were made in factories, in +stores, in offices, in the public schools; cash boxes or globes +stood in all frequented places and were rapidly filled with bank +notes; theatrical and musical entertainments were given for the +benefit of the earthquake sufferers; never had there been such an +awakening. As an instance of the spirit displayed, one man came +running into a banking house and threw a thousand dollar bill on +the counter. + +"For San Francisco," he said, as he turned toward the door. + +"What name?" asked the teller. + +"Put it down to 'cash,'" he answered, as he vanished. + +Rapidly the fund accumulated. A few days brought it up to + +the $5,000,000 mark. Then it grew to $10,000,000. Within ten +days' time the relief fund was estimated at $18,000,000, and the +good work was still going on--in less profusion, it is true, but +still the spirit was alive. + + +FOREIGN OFFERS OF AID. + + +The generous impulse was not confined to the United States. From +all countries came offers of aid. Canada was promptly in the +field, and the chief nations of Europe were quick to follow, while +Japan made a generous offer, and in far Australia funds were +started at the various cities for the sufferers. No doubt a large +sum from foreign lands would have been available had not President +Roosevelt declined to accept contributions from abroad, as not +needed in view of America's abundant response. To the Hamburg-Line +which offered $25,000, the following letter was sent: + +"The President deeply appreciates your message of sympathy, and +desires me to thank you heartily for the kind offer of outside aid. +Although declining, the President earnestly wishes you to +understand how much he appreciates your cordial and generous +sympathy." + +All other offerings from abroad were in the same thankful spirit +declined, even those from our immediate neighbors, Canada and +Mexico. Some feeling was aroused by this, especially in the relief +committee at San Francisco, which felt that the need of that city +was so great and urgent that no offer of relief should have been +declined. In response the President explained that he only spoke +for the government, in his official capacity, and that San +Francisco was in no sense debarred from accepting any contributions +made directly to it. + +It may justly be said for the people of this country that their +spontaneous generosity in the presence of a great calamity, either +at home or abroad, is always magnificent. It never waits for +solicitation. It does not delay even until the necessity is +demonstrated, but it assumes that where there is great destruction +of property and homes are swept away there must be distress which +calls for immediate relief. + +There is one ray of light in the gloom caused by the calamity at +San Francisco. A truly splendid display of brotherly love and +sympathy has been shown by the people of this country, and a +similar display was ready to be shown by the people of the +civilized world had it been felt that the occasion demanded it and +that the exigency surpassed the power of our people to meet it. + + +ENTERPRISE IN SAN FRANCISCO. + + +In the face of an appalling and death-dealing disaster, rendering +an entire community dependent for the bare necessities of life and +putting it in imminent danger of greater horrors, the nation has +been stirred as it has rarely been before, and there have been +awakened those deeper feelings of brotherhood which are referred to +in the oft-quoted passage that "one touch of nature makes the whole +world akin." + +The nature indicated in this instance is human nature in its +highest manifestation, the sympathetic sentiment that stirs deeply +in all our hearts and needs but the occasion to make itself warmly +manifested. There is something incomparably splendid in the +spectacle of an entire nation straining every nerve to send succor +to the helpless and the suffering, and this spectacle has warmed +the hearts of our people to the uttermost and inspired them to make +the most strenuous efforts to drive away the gaunt wolf of famine +from the ruined homes of our far Pacific brethren. + +It may be said that San Francisco will be willing to accept this +relief only so long as stern necessity demands it. At this writing +only two weeks have passed since the dread calamity, and already +active steps are being taken to provide for themselves. As an +example of their enterprise, it may be said that their newspapers +hardly suspended at all, the Evening Post alone suspending +publication for a time from being unable to acquire a plant in the +vicinity of the city. When the conflagration made it apparent that +all plants would be destroyed, the Bulletin put at work a force in +its composing rooms, a hand-bill was set and some hundreds of +copies run off on the proof-press, giving the salient features of +the day's news. + +The morning papers, the Call, Chronicle and Examiner, retired to +Oakland, on the other side of the bay, and there, on Thursday +morning, issued a joint paper from the office of the Oakland +Tribune. On Friday morning they split forces again, the Examiner +retaining the use of the Tribune plant and the Call and Chronicle +issuing from the office of the Oakland Herald. Two days later the +Call secured the service of the Oakland Enquirer plant. Meantime, +on Friday, the Bulletin, after a suspension of one day, made +arrangements for the use in the afternoon of the Oakland Herald +equipment, and from these sources and under such circumstances the +San Francisco papers have been issuing. + +Offices were hurriedly opened on Fillmore Street, which today is +the main thoroughfare of San Francisco, and from these headquarters +the news of the day as it is gathered is transmitted by means of +automobiles and ferry service to the Oakland shore. + +There also were accepted such advertisements as had been offered. +The number of these was, perhaps, the best visual sign of the +resurrection of the new city. It was noted that in a fourteen-page +paper printed within two weeks after the fire by the Examiner there +were over nine pages of advertisements, and in a sixteen-page paper +published by the Chronicle at least fifty per cent. of its space +was devoted to the same end. + +Many of the larger factories left unharmed were also quick to start +work. At the Union Iron Works 2,300 men were promptly employed, +and the management expected within a fortnight to have the full +complement of its force, nearly 4,000 men, engaged. No damage was +done to the three new warships being built at these works for the +government, the cruisers California and Milwaukee and the +battleship South Dakota. The steamer City of Puebla, which was +sunk in the bay, has been raised and is being repaired. Workmen +are also engaged fixing the steamship Columbia, which was turned on +her side. The hulls of the new Hawaiian-American Steamship +Company's liners were pitched about four feet to the south, but +were uninjured and only need to be replaced in position. + +As for the working people at large, those without funds for their +own support, abundant employment will quickly be provided for them +in the necessary work of clearing away the debris, thus opening the +way to a resumption of business and reducing the number requiring +relief. The ukase has already been issued that all able-bodied men +needing aid must go to work or leave the city. + +This dictum of Chief of Police Dinan's will be strictly enforced. +The relief work and distribution of food and clothing are +attracting a certain element to the city which does not desire to +labor, while some already here prefer to live on the generosity of +others. Chief Dinan has determined that those who apply for relief +and refuse work when it is offered them shall leave the city or be +arrested for vagrancy. The police judges have suggested +establishing a chain gang and putting all vagrants and petty +offenders at work clearing up the ruins. + +Perhaps never in the history of the city has there been so little +crime in San Francisco. With the saloons closed, Chinatown, the +Barbary Coast, and other haunts of criminals wiped out, and +soldiers and marines on almost every block in the residence +districts, there have been few crimes of any kind. It is the +opinion of the police that most of the criminal element has left +the city. The saloons, in all probability will remain closed for +two more months. + + +THE PROBLEM OF THE CHINESE. + + +In conclusion of this chapter it is advisable to refer to the +situation of one of the elements of San Francisco's population, the +people of Chinatown. One of the problems facing the relief +committees on both sides of the bay is the sheltering of the +Chinese. Many of them are destitute. It has long been a question +in San Francisco what should be done with Chinatown, and moving the +Chinese in the direction of Colma has been agitated. Now they are +without homes and without prospects of procuring any. They can get +no land. The limits of Oakland's Chinatown have already been +extended, and the strictest police regulations are in force to +prevent further enlargement. On this side of the bay they are +camping in open lots. Unless the government undertakes their +relief, they are in grave danger. Those who have money cannot +purchase property, as no one will sell to them. Few, however, even +of the wealthiest merchants in Chinatown, saved anything of value, +for their wealth was invested in the Oriental village which had +sprung up in the heart of the area burned. + +Yet it is the desire of the municipality not to harass this portion +of its foreign population, and the vexatious problem of placing the +new Chinatown will probably be settled to the satisfaction of the +Chinese colony. This colony diverts an important part of the trade +of San Francisco to that city, and if its members are dealt with +unjustly there is danger of losing this trade. The question is one +that must be left for the future to decide, but no doubt care will +be taken that a new Chinatown with the unsavory conditions of the +old shall not arise. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +San Francisco of the Past + + +The story of San Francisco's history and tragedy appeal with +extraordinary force to the imagination of all civilized men. For +several generations the city was looked upon as an Arabian Night's +dream--a place where gold lay in the streets and joy and happiness +were unlimited. Its settlement, or, rather, its real rise as a +city, was as by magic. It was first a city of tents, of shanties, +of "shacks," lying on the rim of a great, spacious bay. Ships of +all sizes and rigs brought gold-seekers and provisions from the +East, all the way round Cape Horn, after voyages of weary months, +and at San Francisco their crews deserted and hundreds of these +craft were left at their moorings to rot. Ashore was a riot of +money, prodigious extravagance, mean, shabby appointments, sudden +riches, great disappointment, revelry, improvidence and suicide. + +The streets that now lay squares from the water were then at the +water's edge and batteaus brought cargoes ashore. Long wharves-- +one was for years called the Long Wharf even after there were +others built much longer--led out over the shallow water. These +shallows were later filled and streets built upon them, and upon +them arose warehouses, hotels, factories, lodging houses and +business places. + +The city grew rapidly in the direction away from the bay. But in +its early days it was a city with no confidence in its own +stability, and its buildings were accordingly unstable. A few +minor earthquakes shook some of these down years ago and +established in the minds of the people a horror of earthquakes. +Frame houses became the rule. + +In its ensuing life San Francisco developed the attributes of a +city of gayety tempered by business. The population, for the most +part, affected light-hearted scorn of money, or, rather, of saving +money. It made mirth of life, habituated itself to expect +windfalls such as miners and prospectors dream of, developed a +moderate amount of business, and enjoyed the day while there was +sunlight and the night when there was artificial light. The +windfalls grew less frequent, mining became a costly and scientific +process, and agriculture succeeded it. But, though it was only +necessary to tickle the land with a hoe and pour water upon the +tickled spot, to have it laugh with two, three or even four +harvests a year, agriculturists continued scarce. The Chinese +truck farms, some of which lay within the city's lines, supplied +the small fruits and vegetables. Across the bay white men farmed, +and grapes, fruits, vegetables and flowers of prodigious variety +and monstrous dimensions were grown. But Eastern men came to do +the farming. The Californian who himself was an "Argonaut," or +whose father was an Argonaut, found no attractions in the steady +labor of farming. + +There followed a period of depression, ascribed by many to the +influx of the Chinese and their effect upon the labor market, +though the army of the unemployed were as a rule unwilling to do +the work their Celestial rivals engaged in, that of truck farming, +fruit raising, manual household labor, wood cutting and the like. +A heavy weight settled on the city; business grew slack; the army +of the unemployed, of ruined speculators and moneyless newcomers +grew steadily greater, and for an era San Francisco saw its dark +side. + +But this was not a long duration. There was fast developing a new +and important business, resulting from the development of the real +resources of the State--the fruits, particularly the citrous fruits +that grew abundantly in the warm valley. Fortunes were made in +oranges, lemons, limes, grapes, almonds and pears. Raisins, whose +size defied anything heretofore known, were made from the huge +grapes that grew in the San Joaquin Valley. Sonoma sent its grapes +to be made into wine. Capital flowed in from every side. Eastern +men in search of health, others in search of wealth, came to the +Golden State. No matter who came, where they came from, or where +they were going, they spent a few days, or many, and some money, or +much, in "'Frisco." The enterprise of the second edition pioneers +quickly transformed the State and city. + + +AGRICULTURE BRINGS NEW WEALTH. + + +Luxury was startling. San Francisco's mercantile community equaled +the best, the stores and shops were as beautiful as anywhere in the +world and proportionately as well patronized. Theatres, music +halls, restaurants, hotel bars and the like were ablaze with lights +at night, and patronized by a gay throng. Sutro's bath, near the +Cliff House, was a species of entertainment unequaled anywhere. +The Presidio, as the army post is still known, as in the Spanish +nomenclature, gave its drills, regarded as free exhibitions for the +people. Golden Gate Park was an endless daily picnic ground. + +The crowds in the streets of San Francisco were noticeably well +dressed and usually gay, without that fixed, drawn, saturnine look +noticeable among the people of the East. It is doubtful whether, +upon the whole, the earnings of the San Francisco man equaled those +of his Eastern brother, but his holidays were frequent and his joys +greater. The grind of life was not yet steady--men had not become +mere machines. + +The climate of California is peculiar; it is hard to give an +impression of it. In the first place, all the forces of nature +work on laws of their own in that part of California. There is no +thunder or lightning; there is no snow, except a flurry once in +five or six years; there are perhaps half a dozen nights in the +winter when the thermometer drops low enough so that there is a +little film of ice on exposed water in the morning. Neither is +there any hot weather. Yet most Easterners remaining in San +Francisco for a few days remember that they were always chilly. + + +A PECULIAR YET DELIGHTFUL CLIMATE. + + +For the Gate is a big funnel, drawing in the winds and the mists +which cool off the great, hot interior valley of San Joaquin and +Sacramento. So the west wind blows steadily ten months of the year +and almost all the mornings are foggy. This keeps the temperature +steady at about 55 degrees--a little cool for comfort of an +unacclimated person, especially indoors. Californians, used to it, +hardly ever think of making fires in their houses except in the few +exceptional days of the winter season, and then they rely mainly +upon fireplaces. This is like the custom of the Venetians and the +Florentines. + +But give an Easterner six months of it, and he, too, learns to +exist without a chill in a steady temperature a little lower than +that to which he is accustomed at home. After that one goes about +with perfect indifference to the temperature. Summer and winter +San Francisco women wear light tailor-made clothes, and men wear +the same fall-weight suits all the year around. + +Except for the modern buildings, the fruit of the last ten years, +the town presented at first sight to the newcomer a disreputable +appearance. Most of the buildings were low and of wood. In the +middle period of the 70's, when a great part of San Francisco was +building, there was some atrocious architecture perpetrated. In +that time, too, every one put bow windows on his house, to catch +all of the morning sunlight that was coming through the fog, and +those little houses, with bow windows and fancy work all down their +fronts, were characteristic of the middle class residence +districts. + +Then the Italians, who tumbled over Telegraph Hill, had built as +they listed and with little regard for streets, and their houses +hung crazily on a side hill which was little less than a precipice. +For the most part the Chinese, although they occupied an abandoned +business district, had remade the houses Chinese fashion, and the +Mexicans and Spaniards had added to their houses those little +balconies without which life is not life to a Spaniard. + +The hills are steep beyond conception. Where Vallejo Street ran up +Russian Hill it progressed for four blocks by regular steps like a +flight of stairs. + +With these hills, with the strangeness of the architecture, and +with the green gray tinge over everything, the city fell always +into vistas and pictures, a setting for the romance which hung over +everything, which has always hung over life in San Francisco since +the padres came and gathered the Indians about Mission Dolores. + +And it was a city of romance and a gateway to adventure. It opened +out on the mysterious Pacific, the untamed ocean, and most of +China, Japan, the South Sea Islands, Lower California, the west +coast of Central America, Australia that came to this country +passed in through the Golden Gate. There was a sprinkling, too, of +Alaska and Siberia. From his windows on Russian Hill one saw +always something strange and suggestive creeping through the mists +of the bay. It would be a South Sea Island brig, bringing in +copra, to take out cottons and idols; a Chinese junk with fan-like +sails, back from an expedition after sharks' livers; an old whaler, +which seemed to drip oil, back from a year of cruising in the +Arctic. Even, the tramp windjammers were deep-chested craft, +capable of rounding the Horn or of circumnavigating the globe; and +they came in streaked and picturesque from their long voyaging. + + +A MIXTURE OF RACES. + + +In the orange colored dawn which always comes through the mists of +that bay, the fishing fleet would crawl in under triangular lateen +sails, for the fishermen of San Francisco Bay are all Neapolitans, +who have brought their costumes and sail with lateen rigs shaped +like the ear of a horse when the wind fills them and stained an +orange brown. + +The "smelting pot of the races" Stevenson called the region along +the water front, for here the people of all these craft met, +Italians, Greeks, Russians, Lascars, Kanakas, Alaska Indians, black +Gilbert Islanders, Spanish-Americans, wanderers and sailors from +all the world, who came in and out from among the queer craft to +lose themselves in the disreputable shanties and saloons. The +Barbary Coast was a veritable bit of Satan's realm. The place was +made up of three solid blocks of dance halls, for the delectation +of the sailors of the world. Within those streets of peril the +respectable never set foot; behind the swinging doors of those +saloons anything might be happening, crime was as common here as +drink, and much went on of which the law was blankly ignorant. + +Not far removed from this haunt of crime was the world-famous +Chinatown, a district six blocks long and two wide, and housing +when at its fullest some 30,000 Chinese. Old business houses at +first, the new inmates added to them, rebuilt them, ran out their +own balconies and entrances, and gave them that feeling of huddled +irregularity which makes all Chinese built dwellings fall naturally +into pictures. Not only this, they burrowed to a depth equal to +three stories under the ground, and through this ran passages in +which the Chinese transacted their dark and devious affairs--as the +smuggling of opium, the traffic in slave girls and the settlement +of their difficulties, by murder if they saw fit. The law was +powerless to prevent or discover and convict the murderers. + +Chinatown is gone; the Barbary Coast is gone; the haunts of crime +have been swept by the devouring flames, and if the citizens can +prevent they will never be restored. The old San Francisco is +dead. The gayest, lightest-hearted, most pleasure-loving city of +this continent, and in many ways the most interesting and romantic, +is a horde of huddled refugees living among ruins. It may rebuild; +it probably will; but those who have known that peculiar city by +the Golden Gate and have caught its flavor of the Arabian Nights +feel that it can never be the same. When it rises out of its ashes +it will probably doubtless resemble other modern cities and have +lost its old strange flavor. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Life in the Metropolis of the Pacific + + +Brought up in a bountiful country, where no one really has to work +very hard to live, nurtured on adventure, scion of a free and merry +stock, the real, native Californian is a distinctive type; as far +from the Easterner in psychology as the extreme Southern is from +the Yankee. He is easy going, witty, hospitable, lovable, inclined +to be unmoral rather than immoral in his personal habits, and above +all easy to meet and to know. + +Above all there is an art sense all through the populace which sets +it off from any other part of the country. This sense is almost +Latin in its strength, and the Californian owes it to the leaven of +Latin blood. + + +THE 'FRISCO RESTAURANTS. + + +With such a people life was always gay. If they did not show it on +the streets, as do the people of Paris, it was because the winds +made open cafes disagreeable at all seasons of the year. The +gayety went on indoors or out on the hundreds of estates that +fringed the city. It was noted for its restaurants. Perhaps +people who cared not how they spent their money could get the best +they wished, but for a dollar down to as low as fifteen cents the +restaurants furnished the best fare to be had anywhere at the +price. + +The country all about produced everything that a cook needs, and +that in abundance--the bay was an almost untapped fish-pond, the +fruit farms came up to the very edge of the town, and the +surrounding country produced in abundance fine meats, all cereals +and all vegetables. + +But the chefs who came from France in the early days and liked this +land of plenty were the head and front of it. They passed their +art to other Frenchmen or to the clever Chinese. Most of the +French chefs at the biggest restaurants were born in Canton, China. +Later the Italians, learning of this country where good food is +appreciated, came and brought their own style. Householders always +dined out one or two nights of the week, and boarding houses were +scarce, for the unattached preferred the restaurants. The eating +was usually better than the surroundings. + + +THE FAMOUS POODLE DOG. + + +Meals that were marvels were served in tumbledown little hotels. +Most famous of all the restaurants was the Poodle Dog. There have +been no less than four restaurants of this name, beginning with a +frame shanty where, in the early days, a prince of French cooks +used to exchange recipes for gold dust. Each succeeding restaurant +of the name has moved farther downtown; and the recent Poodle Dog +stands--or stood--on the edge of the Tenderloin in a modern five- +story building. And it typified a certain spirit that there was in +San Francisco. + +On the ground floor was a public restaurant where there was served +the best dollar dinner on earth. It ranked with the best and the +others were in San Francisco. Here, especially on Sunday night, +almost everybody went to vary the monotony of home cooking. Every +one who was any one in the town could be seen there off and on. It +was perfectly respectable. A man might take his wife and daughter +there. + +On the second floor there were private dining rooms, and to dine +there, with one or more of the opposite sex, was risque but not +especially terrible. But the third floor--and the fourth floor-- +and the fifth! The elevator man of the Poodle Dog, who had held +the job for many years and never spoke unless spoken to, wore +diamonds and was a heavy investor in real estate. + +There were others as famous in their way--Zinkaud's, where, at one +time, every one went after the theatre, and Tate's, which has +lately bitten into that trade; the Palace Grill, much like the +grills of Eastern hotels, except for the price; Delmonico's, which +ran the Poodle Dog neck and neck in its own line, and many others, +humbler, but great at the price. + + +THE BOHEMIAN CLUB. + + +To the visitor who came to see the city and who put himself in the +hands of one of its well-to-do citizens for the purpose, the few +days that followed were apt to be a whirl of mirth and sight- +seeing, made up of breakfasts, luncheons, dinners, drives, little +trips across the bay, dashes down the peninsula to the polo and +country clubs, hours spent in Bohemia, trips around the world among +all the races of the habitable globe, all of whom had their +colonies in this most cosmopolitan of American cities. + +In club life the Bohemian stood first and foremost, the famous club +whose meeting place, with all its art treasures, is now a heap of +ashes, but which was formerly 'Frisco's head-centre of mirth. +Founded by Henry George, the world-famous single tax advocate, when +he was an impecunious scribbler on the San Francisco Post, it grew +to be the choicest place of resort in the Pacific metropolis. + +Within its walls the possession of dollars was a bar rather than an +"open sesame," the master key to its circles being the knack of +telling a good story or the possession of quick and telling wit. +Fun-making was the rule there, and the only way to escape being +made its victim was the power to deliver a ready and witty retort. +In this home of good fellowship all the artists, actors, wits, +literati, fiddlers, pianists and bon vivants were members. Here an +impoverished painter could square his grill and buffet account by +giving the club a daub to hang on its walls. Here in days of old +the Sheriff used to camp regularly once a month until the members +rustled up the money to replevin the furniture. But these days of +poverty passed away, and in later years the club came to know +prosperity beyond the dreams of the good fellows who founded it. + + +THE WICKEDEST AND GAYEST. + + +The Bohemian is gone, but the spirit that founded and made it still +exists, and we may look to see it rise, like the phoenix, from its +ashes. + +San Francisco was often called the wickedest city in America. It +was hardly that, it was simply the gayest. It was not the home of +purity; neither is any other city. What other cities do behind +closed doors San Francisco did not hesitate to do in the open. + +In Eastern cities the police have driven vice into tenements, +lodging houses and apartments. San Francisco did not do that. She +had certain quarters where, according to unwritten law, vice was +allowed to abide, and she did not try to hide the fact that it +could be found there. She was not secretly immoral; she was +frankly unmoral. + +She did not believe in driving her vice from the open where it +could be recognized and controlled--prevented from doing any more +harm than it was possible to stop--into districts of the city where +good people dwell and purity would feel its contaminating +influence. There were regions in which the respectable never set +foot, haunts of acknowledged vice which for virtue to enter would +be to lose caste. + +As for its gayety, San Francisco was proud of the reputation of +being the Paris of America. Its women were beautiful, and they +knew it. They liked to adorn their beauty with fine clothes and +peacock along the streets on matinee days. If you asked a San +Francisco girl why she wore such expensive clothes, she would say, +frankly, "Because I like to have the men admire me," and she would +see no harm in saying it. There was very little sham about the San +Francisco women. Their men understood them and worshiped them. +They bore themselves with the freedom that was theirs by right of +their heritage of open-air living, the Bohemian atmosphere they +breathed, the unconventional character of their surroundings. +Their figures were strong and well moulded, their faces bloomed +with health like the roses in their gardens. They drew the wine of +laughter from their balmy California air. Sorrow and trouble sat +lightly on their shoulders. + +There was no end of enjoyments. After the theatre they would go to +Zinkaud's, Tate's, the Palace or some other of the many places of +resort, for a snack to eat and a spell under the music, which was +to be heard everywhere. + +Another part of the gay life of the city was for a private dance to +keep going all night in a fashionable residence, and at daylight, +instead of everybody going to bed, to jump into automobiles or +carriages or take the trolley cars and whizz off to the beach for a +dip in the cold salt water pool at Sutro's baths, and then, with +ravenous appetites, sit down on the Cliff House balcony to an open- +air breakfast while watching the ships sail in and out at the +Golden Gate and hearing the seals barking on the rocks. After that +home and to rest. + + +AN ALL-NIGHT TOWN. + + +The city never went to sleep altogether. It was "an all-night" +town. Few of the restaurants ever closed, none of the saloons did. +Always during the whole twenty-four hours of the day there was +"something doing" in the Tenderloin. No hour of the night was ever +free of revelry. It was marvelous how they kept it up. The +average San Franciscon could stay awake all night at a card game, +take a cold wash and a good breakfast in the morning, and go +straight downtown to business and feel none the worse for it. + +It was a gay town, a captivating, piquant, audacious, but not +especially wicked city. A Frenchy, a risque city it might justly +have been called, but it was not wicked in the sense that sordid +vice, vulgar crime and wretched squalor constitute wickedness. + +It was a lovable place that everybody longed to get back to, once +having been there. A woman, leaving it for years, watched it from +the ferryboat, and, weeping, said, "San Francisco, oh, my San +Francisco, I am leaving thee." + +Will those who left it after the fire ever get back to their old +city again? We have already expressed our doubt of this. The old +San Francisco is probably gone, never to return. The new San +Francisco will be a cleaner, saner and safer city, destitute of its +rookeries, its tenements and its Chinatown. It will be a greater +and more sightly city than that of the past, but to those who knew +and loved the old San Francisco--San Francisco the captivating, the +maddest, gayest, liveliest and most rollicking in the country-- +there must be something impressibly sad to its old inhabitants in +the reflection that the new city of the Golden Gate can never be +quite the same as the haven of their early affections. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Plans to Rebuild San Francisco. + + +Almost as soon as the terrible conflagration had been checked and +gotten under control by the heroic efforts of the soldiers and +firemen, a little group of the leading citizens of the desolated +city had met in the office of Mayor Eugene E. Schmitz and had begun +to plan the restoration of their municipality. It was an admirable +courage, bred in the stock of those men who in 1849 left +comfortable homes in the East to seek their fortune in the Golden +State, that inspired the loyal leaders of the present day citizens +to provide with far-seeing eyes for the rebuilding of their homes +and business houses with more orderly precision after the fire than +had been possible during the hustle of early days in a new city. + +The old San Francisco was no more, and never could be recalled save +as a memory. The local color, atmosphere, that which might be +termed the feeling of the old city, vanished with the clustered +houses, as rich in tradition as the ancient missions in whose +cloisters worshiped the Spanish padre "before the Gringo came." +Heartrending as it was to the citizens who loved their homes and +haunts to see them disappear into smoke, there was an attraction +about the city of the Golden Gate which endeared it to all +Americans. + +One of San Francisco's charms was in its defiance of precedent. +There were hills to be conquered, and San Francisco' s expanding +traffic hurled itself at the face of them. It went up and up, with +no thought of finding a way around. So it happened that on some of +the streets the steepness was too great for horses. In the centre +there are cable roads, and on either side of the rails grass grows +through the cobbles. The earlier structures on the level were put +together in haste. For the most part they remained essentially +unchanged until they fell with a crash. True, they had become +stained by time, unkempt, dwarfed by new neighbors, but nobody +desired to efface them. Away from the business section houses +appeared on the various hills, perched precariously near the brink; +houses reached by long flights and grown over with roses. The +bathing fogs touched them with gray. Moss grew on their roofs. In +the little, lofty yards calla lilies bloomed with the profusion of +weeds. The natural beauty of the site, the quaintness of the +commercial and social development of which it became the centre, +attracted the poet and the artist. It incited them to paint the +attractions and to sing the praises of their chosen home. + +But the loyal sons of those brave pioneers who founded the +metropolis were not in the least daunted by the problem of raising +from its ruins the whole vast number of dwellings and business +houses. The leaders of the people, the men who had been identified +with San Francisco since its early days, and whose great fortunes +were almost swept away by the cataclysm, lent courage to all the +wearied thousands by firm statements of their optimism. + +James D. Phelan, former Mayor of the city and one of its richest +capitalists, immediately announced his intention of rebuilding his +properties at Market and O'Farrell Streets, in the heart of the +ruined business district. William H. Crocker, one of the heaviest +losers, a nephew of Charles Crocker, who founded the Central +Pacific Railroad with Collis P. Huntington, Leland Stanford and +others, stated emphatically that he would put his shoulder to the +wheel. On receiving the first news of the disaster, and before he +knew what his losses would amount to, he said: + +"Mark my words, San Francisco will arise from these ashes a greater +and more beautiful city than ever. I don't take any stock in the +belief of some people that investors and residents will be panicky +and afraid to build up again. This calamity, terrible as it is, +will mean nothing less than a new and grander San Francisco. It is +preposterous to suggest the abandonment of the city. It is the +natural metropolis of the Pacific coast. God made it so. D. O. +Mills, the Spreckels family, everybody I know, have determined to +rebuild and to invest more than ever before. Burnham, the great +Chicago architect, has been at work for a year or more on plans to +beautify San Francisco. Terrible as this destruction has been, it +serves to clear the way for the carrying out of these plans. Why, +even now we are figuring on rebuilding. More than that, I am +confident that, except for what fire has absolutely laid waste, it +will be found that the buildings are less injured than was +supposed. Plastering, ornamental work, glass and more or less +loose material has been shaken down, but the framework, I am sure, +will be found intact in many big buildings." + +D. Ogden Mills, of New York, who owned enormous properties in the +stricken city, was equally confident. + +"We will go ahead," said he, "and build the city, and build it so +that earthquakes will not shake it down and so fire will not +destroy it, and we will have a water system which will enable us to +draw water from the sea for fire extinguishing service and other +municipal purposes. We will thus have less to fear from the +destruction of the land mains. The whole point with all of us who +own property down there is that we have to build. To let it lie +idle, piled with its ruins, would mean the throwing away of money, +and I am sure none of us intends to do that. The city will go up +like Baltimore did, and Galveston, and Charleston, and Chicago, and +there will be no lack of capital. California spirit and California +enterprise, which are always associated with the State of +California, will rise superior to this calamity." + +George Crocker, elder brother of William H. Crocker; Archer M. +Huntington, son of Collis P. Huntington; Mrs. Herman Oelrichs, Mrs. +W. K. Vanderbilt, Jr., members of the wealthy Spreckels family and +others all expressed, before the great conflagration had ceased +burning, the confident expectation that the city would rise, +Phoenix-like, from its ashes and become more beautiful and +prosperous than it had ever been in the past. + +So complete was the calamity that the Government of the United +States lent a hand in the earliest work of restoration. On April +20th, two days after the earthquake, Congress took immediate steps +to repair or replace all the public buildings damaged or destroyed +in San Francisco. The willingness of Congress to assist those in +need of work by immediately beginning the reconstruction of the +Federal buildings was indicated when Senator Scott, chairman of the +Committee on Public Buildings and Grounds, introduced a resolution +calling upon the Secretary of the Treasury for full information as +to the exact condition of the various government buildings in San +Francisco, and instructing him to submit an estimate showing the +aggregate sum needed to repair or rebuild them. The resolution +suggested that steel frames be used in any new buildings. This +resolution was adopted. It was soon learned that the new Post +Office, the Mint and the old Customs House were practically +undamaged. The branch of the United States Mint, on Fifth Street, +and the new Post Office at Seventh and Mission Streets, were +striking examples of the superiority of workmanship put into +Federal buildings. The old Mint building, surrounded by a wide +space of pavement, was absolutely unharmed. The Mint made +preparations to resume business at once. The Post Office building +also was virtually undamaged by fire. The earthquake shock did +some damage to the different entrances to the building, but the +walls were left standing in good condition. President Roosevelt +also sent a message to Congress asking that $300,000 be at once +appropriated to finish the Mare Island Navy Yard, in order that +employment might be given to the many workmen who were in extreme +need of money for the necessities of life. + +It was a most fortunate circumstance that the property records in +the Hall of Records were unharmed either by earthquake or fire. +Endless disputes and litigation over the questions of ownerships +would undoubtedly have otherwise impeded the work of those +sincerely anxious to repair their shattered fortunes and opened the +way for the unscrupulous to take unfair advantage of the general +chaos. + +But the temper of the people was such that only the boldest would +have dared to use trickery for his own ends. Every man stood at +the side of his neighbor working for himself and for the good of +all. Before the embers were cool the owners of some of the damaged +skyscrapers gave commands to proceed instantly with their +reconstruction. The Spreckels Building, the Hayward Building, the +St. Francis Hotel, the Merchants' Exchange and structures that +permitted it were ordered rushed into shape as quickly as possible. +And already contracts had been drawn up for other steel-frame +buildings to be erected with all speed. Many substantial business +men and property owners of San Francisco were in consultation with +the architects within a few days. While the work of clearing away +the debris went forward, a corps of draughtsmen was busily occupied +preparing plans for the new buildings to adorn the city. + +Mayor Schmitz telegraphed to the Mayors of all leading cities, +inquiring how many architects or architectural draughtsmen could be +induced to leave for San Francisco at once, and hundreds of young +men immediately responded to the call. Experts of the several +great contracting companies hurried to the scene and were ready to +deposit material and labor on the ground for the work of +restoration. Daniel H. Burnham, a leading architect of Chicago, +who had previously drawn plans for beautifying the city, was +summoned to superintend the work. + +All the horses, mules and wagons obtainable were immediately +pressed into service to remove the debris and clear the streets so +that traffic could be resumed. Within a week after the first +earthquake shock trolley cars were running in the principal +streets, telephone communication had been re-established in the +most needed quarters, electric lights were available and business +had begun again on a limited scale. + +Yet, in spite of the indomitable courage of the citizens and the +efficient labor of the public officers and the utility companies, +an enormous amount of work remained. Virtually every bank in San +Francisco had to be rebuilt. Only the Market Street National Bank +was left nearly undamaged. An official list of the condition of +the school buildings throughout the city showed that twenty-nine +school buildings were destroyed and that forty-four were partially, +at least, spared. Many of the latter were so damaged that they had +to be either pulled down or thoroughly repaired, and arrangements +were made to resume the short term in tents erected in the parks, +where thousands of the homeless had already found temporary +shelter. With these two vital classes of public institutions +prepared to care for the demands about to be made on them, +confidence was not lacking in other parts. Most of the foundries +and factories near the water front and south of Market Street +immediately called in all their employees and began to clear away +the wreckage and make ready for continuing business. Great credit +is due to the newspapers, nearly all of which continued their daily +issues without interruption, although their buildings, with offices +and printing plants, were entirely destroyed by the flames which +followed the earthquake. Those whose premises were early +threatened with destruction betook themselves to Oakland, seven +miles distant across the bay, and published their sheets from the +establishments of the Oakland papers. A thorough inspection shows +that comparatively little damage was done in the vicinity of the +Cliff. The Cliff House, which was at first reported to have been +hurled into the sea, not only stood, but the damage sustained by it +from the earthquake was slight. The famous Sutro baths, located +near the Cliff House, with the hundreds of thousands of square feet +of glass roofing, also were practically unharmed. Only a few of +the windows in the Sutro baths and the Cliff House were broken, and +the lofty chimney of the pumping plant of the former establishment +was cracked only a trifle. When the situation was finally summed +up, however, nearly three-fourths of the city had to be rebuilt or +remodeled, and the cost of doing this was enough to appal the +strongest hearts. + +Financially the prospect was encouraging. Not a bank lost the +contents of its fireproof vaults and remained practically unharmed, +so far as credit was concerned. + +For a number of days it was impossible to open any strong boxes on +account of the great heat which the thick walls retained, and this +naturally caused some embarrassment and lack of ready money. +Nearly all of them, however, had strong connections in Eastern +cities and large balances to their credit in other banks of America +and Europe. They were also favored by the fact that the United +States Mint and the Sub-Treasury held between them some +$245,000,000 in ready money. The Secretary of the Treasury +immediately deposited $10,000,000 to the credit of the local banks, +and financiers of the great business centres of the country added +to public confidence by prompt statements that they would +facilitate the reconstruction of the city by a liberal advancement +of funds. + +One prominent Eastern capitalist expressed the general conviction +in the following words: + +"No great city, unless it dried up entirely from lack of commercial +life blood, was ever annihilated by such a disaster as that of San +Francisco. Pompeii and Herculaneum were not great cities in the +first place, and in the second, they were completely covered, +smothered as it were, with the ashes and molten lava of the +adjoining volcano, and nearly all of their inhabitants perished. +If it be admitted that three-fourths of the superstructures, so to +speak, of San Francisco, estimated according to valuation, is +destroyed, we have yet the fact remaining that the lives of only +about one four-hundredth of its population have been lost. + +"San Francisco was not merely land and the buildings erected upon +it, but it was people, and one of the most active, most hopeful, +most vivacious human communities on the face of the earth. You +cannot long discourage such a community, unless you wipe out three- +fourths of its members. Will San Francisco rise again? Most +certainly it will. Galveston and Baltimore, not to mention +Charleston, Boston and Chicago, showed the spirit of material +resurrection in American communities, sore-smitten by calamity. +After Galveston had been made a desert of sand and debris, there +were predictions that it would never rise again. What was the +outcome? A finer Galveston than before, and finer than many years +of slow improvement in the natural course would have made it. +Baltimore is busier commercially than it was before the great fire. + +"San Francisco is exceedingly fortunate in the fact that its +moneyed institutions remain strong, with abundant supplies of +funds. It is true that many of them undoubtedly hold large numbers +of real estate mortgages as securities for loans, and that much of +the property thus represented is now in ashes. But with care and +an accommodating spirit practically all of those mortgaged can be +so nursed that they will be made absolutely good. The banks will +be found to be only too eager to afford new loans which will enable +realty owners to rebuild. You will see San Francisco rise a more +splendid city than ever, and better prepared to resist future +earthquake shocks. Because it has had this dreadful visitation is +no reason for apprehension that another like it will come within +the life of the present generation, or two or three after. The +destruction of Lisbon in the middle of the eighteenth century and +its subsequent immunity from seismic damage is a reassuring +example." + +The municipality was in excellent financial condition to meet and +rise above the extraordinary needs of the situation. It had a +bonded debt of only $4,245,100, while its realty valuation was +$402,127,261 and its personalty $122,258,406. The question of +issuing further amounts of bonds was therefore one of the first +measures considered by Mayor Schmitz and his co-workers, and an +appeal was made to the Federal Government to guarantee the proposed +loans, so that the most urgent work which lay in the city's +province could be undertaken at once and without an excessive +burden of interest. + +The vast insurance loss was divided among 107 companies, and, +though only a little more than half the damage was covered by +policies, the total swelled toward the colossal sum of +$150,000,000. Several of the largest companies were seriously +crippled by the disaster and some were forced into liquidation. To +the great relief of the entire country, nevertheless, the financial +situation was not severely affected, and there was every reason to +believe that the great bulk of the insurance would be paid. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +The Earthquake Wave Felt Round the Earth. + + +The outbreak of earth forces at San Francisco did not stand alone. +There were others elsewhere at nearly the same time, the whole +seeming to indicate a general disturbance in the interior of the +earth's crust. Some scientists, indeed, declared that no possible +connection could exist between the eruption of Mount Vesuvius and +the earthquake at San Francisco, but others were inclined to view +certain facts in regard to recent seismic and volcanic activity as, +to say the least, suggestive. + +As to the actual cause of the California earthquake, the wisest +confession we can make is that of ignorance, there being almost as +little known as to the origin, period and coming of earthquakes as +when Pliny wrote 1,800 years ago. The Roman observer knew that the +tremor passed like a wave through the surface of the earth; he knew +that it had a given direction, and he knew that certain regions +were rife with seismic disturbance. More he could not say, and +when this is said all has been said that is known to-day. + +Setting aside these general considerations, let us return to the +question of the disaster at San Francisco on that fatal morning of +April 18th. The shock did not come unexpectedly. A month previous +there had been a severe earthquake in the Island of Formosa, and +many lives were lost there, while an enormous amount of damage was +done. Only a few days before the event in San Francisco there was +another earthquake in the same island. Still greater havoc was +caused by it than by the earthquake in March, but fewer lives were +lost, the reason being that the people were warned in time. Early +in April the eruption of Mount Vesuvius reached its height and +devastated the country around the volcano, covering an enormous +territory with ashes, and caused the loss of hundreds of lives. + +On Tuesday night, April 17th, word was received from Piatigorsk, +Circassia, that there had been two severe earthquake shocks the +previous day in Northern Caucasia. The same night a telegram from +Madrid said that the newspapers there reported that the long- +dormant volcano on Palma, the largest of the Canary Islands, was +showing signs of eruption, columns of smoke issuing from the +crater. + + +WIDESPREAD EARTH TREMORS. + + +While scientists as a rule doubt that there was any connection +between these volcanic phenomena and the earthquake at San +Francisco, yet reports from the Mount Weather observation station +in Virginia, a few miles from Washington, show that the eruptions +of Vesuvius acted on the magnetic instruments by electro-magnetic +waves in such a way as to disturb the electrical potentials at that +place. Be this as it may, there is one remarkable circumstance in +regard to all this activity. All the places mentioned--Formosa, +Southern Italy, Caucasia, and the Canary Islands--lie within a belt +bounded by lines a little north of the fortieth parallel and a +little south of the thirtieth parallel. San Francisco is just +south of the fortieth parallel, while Naples is just north of it. +The latitude of Calabria, where the terrible earthquakes occurred +in 1905, is the same as that of the territory affected by the +recent earthquake in the United States. This may or may not have +some bearing on the question. + +Whatever be thought of all this, one thing is certain, the +earthquake which laid San Francisco in ruins was felt the world +over, wherever there were instruments in position to detect and +record it. The seismograph in the government observatory at +Washington showed that the first wave, on April 18th, came at 8.19- +-equivalent to 5.19 at San Francisco; that at 8.25 there was a +stronger wave motion, and that from 8.32 to 8.35 the recording pen +was carried off the paper. The vibrations did not entirely cease +until 12.35 P. M., during this period there having been nearly half +an inch of to and fro motion in the surface of the earth. + + +RECORDS OF FOREIGN OBSERVATIONS. + + +From far away New Zealand, on the same date, the government +seismograph at the capital, Wellington, recorded seismic waves that +apparently passed round the earth five times at intervals of about +four hours each. + +Across the Atlantic, at Heidelberg, in Germany, the records showed +vibrations lasting one hour. At Sarayevo, in Bosnia, there was a +sharp shock at 11 A. M., undulating from west to east. At +Funfkirchen, in Hungary, at Laibach, in Austria, in the Isle of +Wight, off the coast of England, and all through Italy, from north +to south, the shocks were felt. + +At Hancock, Mich., a shock was felt on April 19th a mile below the +surface in the Quincy mine of such severity that one man was killed +and four injured by a fall of rock loosened by the trembling of the +earth. There is no evidence, however, that this had any connection +with the California disaster, the dates not coinciding. + +Turning to the Far East, across the Pacific, seismographs in the +Imperial University of Tokio showed that the earthquake was felt +there eleven minutes later than in San Francisco, and similar +instruments in Manila detected the arrival of the seismic waves +twenty minutes after the San Francisco shock. In this there was a +slight difference in time compared with Tokio, but, considering the +distance, near enough to prove that the disturbances came from the +same source. + +Not until the day following was any noticeable disturbance felt in +Honolulu, but on April 19th shocks were plainly felt for six +minutes and the water in the harbor rose rapidly. Panic seemed +imminent just before the shocks subsided. While earthquakes are by +no means infrequent in these islands, this was more severe than any +recorded in recent years, causing buildings to sway to and fro and +partly demolishing some of frail construction. + +If, as the majority of men qualified to discuss earthquakes seem to +think, the San Francisco earthquake had no connection with volcanic +action, but was caused by what is technically known as a "fault" in +the formation of the crust of the earth, it seems easy enough to +account for these wave motions travelling round the earth. How +widely this may really have made itself felt it is not possible to +say. Several of the great earthquakes in Japan have been recorded +in the seismographs of the observatories on every continent and in +Australia, showing that in severe disturbances of this kind the +whole surface strata quiver, alike under the oceans and over the +continents and islands. At the time of a shock, of course, half of +the world is in darkness and asleep. This is taken to account for +the fact that so far only a few observatories have reported +catching the San Francisco vibrations. + +The instruments invented for the recording of the motions of the +earth's crust are looked upon by scientists as the most delicate of +all machines. So highly sensitive are they, indeed, that the very +slightest vibratory motion is recorded perfectly. Even the tread +of feet cannot escape this instrument if sufficient to cause a +vibration. + +There are three classes of instruments for the automatic recording +of earth tremors, each with its own particular function. First is +the seismoscope, which will merely detect and record the fact that +there has been such a tremor. Some of these are so equipped as to +indicate the time of the disturbance. + +Second, is the seismometer, the function of which is to measure the +maximum force of the shock, either with or without an indication of +its direction. The third instrument is the seismograph, which is +so arranged that it will accurately record the number, succession, +direction, amplitude and period of successive oscillations. This +last instrument is by far the most delicate of the three. + +In the construction of this earthquake recording machine the maker +must so suspend a heavy body that when its normal position is +disturbed in the most infinitesimal degree no reactionary force +will be developed tending to restore it to its original position. +The inventor has never been found who could accomplish this +suspension of a body to perfection. The seismograph of to-day, +however, has reached a stage of perfection where close +approximations are obtained in the records made. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +Vesuvius Devastates the Region of Naples. + + +We have in other chapters described the terrible work of Mount +Vesuvius in the past, from the far-off era of the destruction of +Pompeii down to the end of the last century. There comes before us +now another frightful eruption, one of the greatest in its history, +that of 1906. For thirty years before this outbreak the mighty +volcano had been comparatively quiet, rarely ceasing, indeed, to +smoke and fume, but giving little indication of the vast forces +buried in its heart. It showed some sympathy with Mont Pelee in +1902, and continued restless after that time, but it was not until +about the middle of February, 1906, that it became threatening, +lava beginning to overflow from the crater and make its lurid way +down the mountain's side. + +It was in the middle of the first week of April that these +indications rose to the danger point, the flow of lava suddenly +swelling from a rivulet to a river, pouring in a gleaming flood +over the crater's rim, and meeting the other streams that came +streaming down the volcano's rugged flank. While this went on the +mountain remained comparatively quiet, there being no explosions, +though a huge cloud of volcanic ash and cinders rose high in the +air until it hung over the crater in the shape of an enormous pine +tree, while from it a shower of dust and sand, soon to become +terrible, began to descend upon the surrounding fields and towns. + +Dangerous as is Vesuvius at any time, the people of the vicinity +dare its perils for the allurement of its fertile soil. A ring of +populous villages encircles it, flourishing vineyards and olive +groves extend on all sides, and the hand of industry does not +hesitate to attack its threatening flanks. The intervals between +its death-dealing throes are so long that the peasants are always +ready to dare destruction for the hope of winning the means of life +from its soil. + + +THE RIVERS OF LAVA. + + +All this locality was now a field of terror and death. Down on the +vineyards and villages poured the smothering ashes in an ever +increasing rain; toward them slowly and threateningly crawled the +fiery serpents of the lava streams; and from their homes fled +thousands of the terror-stricken people, frantic with horror and +dismay. A number of populous villages were threatened by the lurid +lava streams, the most endangered being Bosco Trecase, with its +10,000 inhabitants. Toward this devoted town poured steadily the +irresistible flood of molten rock. The soldiers who had been +hurried to the front sought to divert its flow by digging a wide +ditch across its course and throwing up a high bank of earth, but +they worked in vain. The demon of destruction was not to be robbed +of its prey. The liquid stream advanced like a colossal serpent of +fire, turning its head like a crawling snake to the right and left, +but keeping steadily on toward the fated town. The ditch was +filled; the bank gave way; the first house was reached and burst +into flames; the creeping stream of fire pushed on to the next +houses in its way; only then did the despairing people desert their +homes and flee for their lives, carrying with them the little they +could snatch of their treasured possessions. + +F. Marion Crawford, the novelist, who was present at this scene, +thus describes the flight of the terrified people: + +"I saw men, women and children and infants, whose mothers carried +them at the breast or in their aprons, fleeing in an endless +procession. Dogs, too, and cats were on the carts, and sometimes +even chickens, tied together by the legs, and piles of mattresses +and pillows and shapeless bundles of clothes. All were white with +dust. Under the lurid glare I saw one old woman lying on her back +across a cart, ghastly white and, if not dead already of fear and +heat and suffocation, certainly almost gone. We ourselves could +hardly breathe." + +It was on Saturday, the 7th, that Bosco Trecase became the prey of +the river of molten rock. During that night and the following day +the crisis of the eruption came. The observatory on the mountain +side was occupied by Professor Matteucci, his assistant, Professor +Perret, of New York, and two domestics, all others having been sent +away. Their description of the scene in which they found +themselves is vividly picturesque. At midnight the situation in +the observatory was terrible. The forces of the earthquake were +let loose and the ground rocked so that it was almost impossible to +stand. The roaring of the main crater was deafening, while the +volcano poured forth its contents like a fountain, and the electric +display was terrifying, constant claps of thunder following the +lurid flashes of lightning, which gave the sky a blood-red hue. + +Shortly after three o'clock in the morning the explosive energy of +the mighty mass culminated. The whole cone burst open with a +tremendous earthquake shock, from the heart of the recently silent +mountain came a deafening roar, and red-hot rocks, like the balls +from nature's mighty artillery, were hurled a half mile into the +air, while a dense mass of ashes and sand was flung to three or +four times this height. All the next day the terrible detonation +kept up, and a hail of bullet-like stones poured downward from the +skies. Rarely has a more terrible Sunday been seen. It was as if +the demons of earth and air were let loose and were seeking to +destroy man and his puny works. + + +THE CRISIS OF THE ERUPTION. + + +This frightful explosion of the 8th of April was the worst of the +dreadful display of volcanic forces, but the work kept up with +diminishing intensity much of the following week. The ashes and +cinders continued to pour down in suffocating showers, covering the +ground to a depth of four or five feet in the vicinity of the +volcano and to a considerable depth at Naples, ten miles away. The +sun disappeared behind the thick cloud that filled the air, and the +scene resembled that described by Pliny more than eighteen hundred +years before. + +Of Bosco Trecase nothing was left but the large stone church and a +few houses. Another river of lava reached the outskirts of Torre +del Greco, and a third stopped at the cemetery of Torre Annunziata. +Those towns escaped, but thousands of acres of fertile cultivated +land, with farm houses and stock, were destroyed. The peninsular +railway up the mountain was ruined and the large hotel burned. One +writer tells the following tale of what he saw on that fatal +Saturday and Sunday: + +"On the road I met hundreds of families in flight, carrying their +few miserable possessions. The spectacle of collapsing carts and +fainting women was frequently seen. When one reached the lava +stream a stupefying spectacle presented itself. From a point on +the mountain between the towns I saw four rivers of molten fire, +one of which, 200 feet wide and over 40 deep, was moving slowly and +majestically onward, devouring vineyards and olive groves. I +witnessed the destruction of a farm house enveloped on three sides +by lava. Immediately overhead the great crater was belching +incandescent rock and scoria for an incredible distance. The whole +scene was wreathed with flames, and a perpetual roar was heard. +Ever and anon the cone of the volcano was encircled with vivid +electric phenomena, amid which a downpour of liquid fire on all +sides of the crater was revealed in magnificent awfulness. In the +evening there was a frightful shock of earthquake, which was +repeated at two o'clock on Sunday morning. Simultaneously the lava +streams redoubled their onrush, and men, women and children fled +precipitately toward the sea. The lava had invaded the road behind +them." + + +A REIGN OF TERROR. + + +The great loss of life was due to the vast fall of ashes, which +crushed in hundreds of roofs and buried the occupants within the +ruins of their homes. In all the neighboring towns buildings were +destroyed in great numbers, an early estimate being that fully +5,000 houses had been partly crushed or utterly destroyed. On the +Ottajano side of the mountain, where the ashes fell in greatest +profusion, all the houses of the villages were damaged, and +Ottajano itself was left a wreck, several hundred dead bodies being +taken from its ruins. In Naples the ash fall was so incessant that +those who could afford it wore automobile coats, caps and goggles, +while the people generally sought to save their eyes and faces by +the aid of paper masks and umbrellas. The drivers of trolley cars +were obliged to wear masks of some transparent material under the +vizors of their caps. + + +DISASTERS AT SAN GIUSEPPE AND NAPLES. + + +There were two special disasters attended by serious loss of life. +On the 9th, while a congregation of two hundred or more were +attending mass in the church at San Giuseppe, the roof crushed in +from the weight of ashes upon it and fell upon the worshippers +below, few or none of whom escaped unhurt. Fifty-four dead bodies +were taken from the ruins and a large number were severely injured. +The Mayor of the town was dismissed from his office for leaving his +post of duty in the face of danger. + +The second disaster, one of the same character, took place at +Naples. This was on Tuesday, April 10th. Just previous to it the +people had been marching in religious processions through the +streets, to render thanks for the apparent cessation of the +activity of Vesuvius. Motley but picturesque processions were +these, headed by boys carrying candles, which burned simply in the +full sunshine and bearing aloft images of the Madonna or saints, +clad in gorgeous robes of cheap blue or yellow satin. Their joy +was suddenly changed to grief by tidings of a frightful disaster. +The roof of the Monte Oliveto market, fronting on the Toledo, the +main thoroughfare, had suddenly crushed in, burying more than 200 +people beneath its heavy fall. + +The market had been crowded with buyers and their children, and it +was the busiest hours of the day in the great roofed courtyard, +covering a space 600 feet square, when, with scarcely a tremor of +warning, there came a frightful crash and a dense cloud of dust +covered the scene, from out of which came heartrending screams of +agony. The volcanic ash which, unnoticed, had gathered thickly on +the roof, had broken it in by its weight. + +The news set the people frantic with grief and indignation. They +insisted that the authorities knew that the roof was unsafe and had +neglected their duty. Cursing and screaming in their intense +excitement, they surrounded the market, endeavoring with frantic +haste to remove the heavy beams from beneath which came the +appealing calls for help, many of the rescuers sobbing aloud as +they worked. It required a large force of police and soldiers to +keep them back and permit the firemen and other trained workers to +carry on more systematically the work of relief. Twelve persons +proved to have been killed, two fatally injured, twenty-four +seriously hurt and over a hundred badly bruised and cut. Among +these were many children, whose parents had sent them to do the +marketing without a dream of danger, and the grief of the parents +was intense. The Duke of Aosta, Prefect of Naples, directed the +work of rescue, while his wife assisted in the care of the injured. +As the Duchess bent in the hospital to give a cooling drink to a +badly bruised little girl she felt a kiss upon her hand. Looking +down, she saw a woman kneeling at her feet, who gratefully said: +"Your Excellency, she is all I have. I am a widow. May God reward +you." + +While this scene of horror was taking place in Naples the fate of +the town and villages grouped around the foot of the volcano seemed +as hopeless as ever. Early on the 10th the showers of ashes and +streams of lava diminished and almost ceased, but later the same +day they began again, and the terrified inhabitants feared that a +catastrophe like that which buried Pompeii and Herculaneum was +about to visit them. The lava which reached the cemetery of Torre +Annunziata turned in the direction of Pompeii as if to freshly +entomb that exhumed city of the past. A violent storm of +sulphurous rain fell at San Giuseppe, Vesuviana and Sariano, and on +all sides the fall of sand and ashes came on again in full +strength. Even with the sun shining high in the heavens the light +was a dim yellow, in the midst of which the few persons who still +haunted the stricken towns moved about in the awful stillness of +desolation like gray ghosts, their clothing, hair and beards +covered with ashes. + + +THE ERUPTION RESUMED. + + +A typical case was that of Torre del Greco. Though for thirty +hours the place had been deserted, a few ghostly figures could be +seen at intervals when the vivid flashes of lightning illuminated +the gloom-covered scene, wandering desolately about, hungry and +thirsty, their throats parched by smoke and dust, yet unable to +tear themselves away from the ruins of their late comfortable +homes. + +So deep was the ash fall that railway or tramway travel to the +inner circle of towns was impossible, and the great depth of fallen +dust choked the roads so as to render travel by carriage or on foot +very difficult. A party of officials made a tour of inspection by +automobile, visiting a number of the town, but were prevented by +the state of the roads from reaching others. Ottajano was thus cut +off from travel, and a heavy fall of ashes followed the officials +in their retreat. At Bosco Trecase the lava had gathered into a +lake, already growing solid on top, but a mass of liquid rock +beneath. + +The lava carried vast masses of burnt stone and sulphur on its +surface, like dross on melted lead, and nothing was visible toward +Bosco Trecase but endless acres of dark scoriae, broken here and +there by the greenish, curling smoke of sulphur. At one point a +great cone pine tree, torn up by its roots and turned to black +charcoal, stuck out of the mass at a sharp angle. The air was +almost unbearable, the heat intense, and few could long bear the +dangers and discomfort of the situation. + + +SCENES OF HORROR. + + +The greatest depth of ashes encountered was in the vicinity of +Ottajano. Here large areas were buried to a depth of several feet. +Soldiers had been sent there with military carts, carrying +provisions and surgical appliances, with orders to lend their aid +in the work of relief. They found it almost impossible to make +their way through the deep fine dust, and the tales of horror and +heroism they had to tell resembled those that must of old have been +borne to Rome by the fleeing inhabitants of Pompeii. + +Efforts were made to remove the children and old persons in the +carts, but when these had gone a few hundred feet it was found +that, although there were four horses harnessed to each vehicle, +they could not pull their loads through the ashes. This caused a +panic among the children, who expected to be buried in the +incessant fall from the volcano, and they fled in all directions in +the darkness and blinding rain. Searching parties went after them, +but in spite of continuous shouting and calling no trace was found +of the little ones, and numbers of the children were undoubtedly +smothered by the ashes and sand. + +Many of the inhabitants had been buried in the ruins of their +houses, and the scenes when the victims were unearthed were often +piteous and terrible. The positions of the bodies showed that the +victims had died while in a state of great terror, the faces being +convulsed with fear. Three bodies were found in a confessional of +one of the fallen churches. One body was that of an old woman who +was sitting with her right arm raised as though to ward off the +advancing danger. The second was that of a child about eight years +old. It was found dead in a position, which would indicate that +the child had fallen with a little dog close to it and had died +with one arm raised across its face, to protect itself and pet from +the crumbling ruins. The third body, that of a woman, was reduced +to an unrecognizable mass. These three victims were reverently +laid side by side while a procession of friends and relatives +offered up prayers beside them. + +One soldier rode his horse through the ashes reaching up to its +flanks, calling out, "Who wants help?" He was rewarded by hearing +a woman's voice reply in weak tones and, springing from his horse, +he floundered through the ashes to the ruined walls of a house from +which the voice seemed to come. As he made his way through the +soft, treacherous layer of scoriae which surrounded the destroyed +habitation, and with difficulty worked his way toward the building +the soldier shouted words of encouragement and, climbing over a +heap of ruins and braving a toppling wall, entered the building. +In the cellar he found the bodies of three children. Near them was +a woman, barely alive, who by almost superhuman efforts for hours +had succeeded in freeing herself from a mass of debris which had +fallen upon her. The soldier picked the woman up in his arms and +carried her to a place of safety. It was found that both legs were +broken and that she had been badly crushed about the body. + +Some extraordinary escapes from death took place. A man and his +four children were rescued after having been lost in the ash- +covered wilderness for fifty-six hours. They were terribly +exhausted, and were reduced almost to skeletons. + +Robert Underwood Johnson, one of the editors of the "Century +Magazine, who happened to be in Rome at the time of the eruption, +made one of a party who ventured as near the scene of destruction +as they could safely approach. From his graphic story of his +experiences we copy some of the most interesting details. + + +AN AMERICAN OBSERVER. + + +"We caught a train for Torre Annunziata, three miles this side of +Pompeii and two miles from the southern end of the wedge of lava +which destroyed Bosco Trecase. We had a magnificent view of the +eruption, eight miles away. Rising at an angle of fifty degrees, +the vast mass of tumult roundness was beautifully accentuated by +the full moon, shifting momentarily into new forms and drifting +south in low, black clouds of ashes and cinders reaching to Capri. +At Torre del Greco we ran under this terrifying pall, apparently a +hundred feet above, the solidity of which was soon revealed in the +moonlight. The torches of the railway guards added to the effect, +but greatly relieved the sulphurous darkness. + +"We reached Torre Annunziata at three in the morning. There was +little suggestion of a disaster as we trudged through the sleeping +town to the lava, two miles away. The brilliant moon gave us a +superb view of the volcano, a gray-brown mass rising, expanding and +curling in with a profile like a monstrous cyclopean face. But +nothing in mythology gives a suggestion of the fascination of this +awful force, presenting the sublime beauty above, but in its +descent filled with the mysterious malignance of God's underworld. + +"We reached the lava at a picturesque cypress-planted cemetery on +the northern boundary of Torre Annunziata. It was as if the dead +had effectually cried out to arrest the crushing river of flames +which pitilessly engulfed the statue of St. Anne with which the +people of Bosco Reale tried to stay it, as at Catania the veil of +St. Agathe is said to have stayed a similar stream from Mount Etna. + +"We climbed on the lava. It was cool above but still alive with +fire below. We could see dimly the extent of the destruction +beyond the barrier of brown which had enclosed the streets, torn +down the houses, invaded the vineyards and broken Cook's railways. +A better idea of the surroundings was obtained at dawn from the +railway. We saw north what was left of Bosco Trecase--a great, +square stone church and a few houses inland in a sea of dull, brown +lava. North and east rose a thousand patches of blue smoke like +swamp miasma. All was dull and desolate slag, with nowhere the +familiar serpentine forms of the old lava streams. In terrible +contrast with the volcanic evidences were strong cypresses and +blooming camelias in a neighboring cemetery. + +"We ate a hasty luncheon before sunrise, when the great beauty of +the scene was revealed. The column now seemed higher and more +massive, rising to three times the height of Vesuvius. Each +portion had a concentric motion and new aspects. The south edges +floating toward the sea showed exquisite curved surfaces, due to +the upper moving current. It was like the decoration of the side +of a great sarcophagus. As a yellow dust hangs over Naples and +hides the volcano, I count myself fortunate to have seen all day +from leeward this spectacle of changing, undiminishing beauty. + +"The wedge of cultivated land ruined east of the volcano extended +at least ten miles, with a width of twenty or thirty miles. Fancy +a rich and thickly populated country of vineyards lying under three +to six inches of ashes and cinders of the color of chocolate with +milk, while above, to the west, the volcano in full activity is +distributing to the outer edges of the circle the same fate, and +you will get an idea of the desolate impression of the scene, a +tragedy colossal and heartrending. Like that of Calabria, it +enlists the sympathy of the civilized world. It takes time for +such a calamity to be realized. + +"Two miles below San Giuseppe we struck cinders which the soldiers +were shoveling, making a narrow road for the refugees. Our wagon +driver begged off from completing his contract to take us to San +Giuseppe. We had not the heart to insist, so the rest of the +journey to the railway at Palma, eight miles, was made laboriously +on foot for three hours through sliding cinders. + +"In many places temporary shelters had been built by the roadside, +like children's playhouses. Here women were huddled with their +bedding, awaiting the coming of supplies which the army had begun +to distribute. The men were largely occupied with shoveling +cinders from the stronger roofs and floors into heaps three to six +feet deep along the roadside. Many two-wheeled carts loaded with +salvage, drawn by donkeys or pushed by peasants, were making their +way along, the women with bundles on their heads or carrying +poultry. + +"In the square of San Giuseppe was an encampment of soldiers, with +low tents. Near a destroyed church, in coarse yellow linen +shrouds, were the bodies of thirty-three of the persons who there +lost their lives. The peasants were sad, but uncomplaining; in +fact, for so excitable a people they were wonderfully calm. As +evidence of the thrift and self-respect of these, we were not once +asked for alms during the afternoon." + + +THE KING AT THE FRONT. + + +The Italian Government did all it could at the moment to alleviate +the horrors of the situation, sending money to be expended in +relief work and dispatching high officials of the government to +give aid and encouragement by their presence. The King, Victor +Emmanuel, and Queen Helene reached the scene of destruction as +early as possible and lent their personal assistance to the work of +rescue. + +Obliged to leave his automobile, which could not move over the +cinder-choked road, the King went forward with difficulty on +horseback, the animal floundering through four feet of ashes, +stumbling into holes, and half blinded by the fall of dust and +cinders. + +"How did you escape?" he asked a priest whom he met in his journey. + +"I put myself in safety," was the reply. + +"What do you mean?" asked the King. + +"Realizing the danger, I left Nola." + +"What!" cried the King, with a flush of anger. "You, a minister of +God, were not here to share the danger of your people and +administer the last sacraments? You did very wrong and forgot your +duty." + +Reaching Ottejano, the King did what he could to expedite the work +of rescue at that central point of disaster, more than a hundred +dead bodies being taken from the ruins in his presence. He stood +with set pale face watching the removal of the victims and +directing the movement of the workers. During his visit at the +front he inspected the temporary camp hospitals, in which the +soldiers were caring for the injured and suffering, speaking to the +poor victims, giving them what comfort he could, and asking what he +could do to relieve their distress. Every request or desire was +received with sympathy and orders given to have it fulfilled. + +A pitiful scene took place when the King bent over a poor man, +whose right leg had been amputated, and asked what he could do to +comfort and aid him in his affliction. + +"Send me my son, who is serving as a soldier," said the maimed +peasant. + +The King, visibly affected, clasped the old man's hand and +exclaimed: + +"My poor fellow! I can do much, but to grant your request would +mean breaking the laws, which I must be the first to respect. I +would give anything I have were it possible by so doing to send +your son to you, but I cannot do so." + +While the King was thus engaged at the scenes of desolation, Queen +Helene visited the charitable institutions at Naples and inspected +the places where the refugees were housed, doing what she could to +improve conditions and add to the comfort of the sufferers. The +Princess of Schleswig-Holstein, who was in Naples, made an +automobile visit to the afflicted towns, but the motor broke down, +and she was forced to return on foot, walking a distance of twelve +miles through the ashes and displaying a power of endurance that +surprised the natives. + + +THE CANOPY OF DUST. + + +By Friday, April 13th, the eruption was practically at an end. +Vesuvius had spent itself in the enormous convulsion of the 7th and +8th and the subsequent minor explosions and had returned to its +normal state, ceasing to give any signs of life, except the cloud +of smoke which still rose from its crater and spread like a thick +curtain over and around the mountain. Looked at from Naples, there +was none of the familiar aspects of the volcano, with its output of +smoke and ashes by day and fiery gleam by night. Now it lay buried +in darkness and obscurity, clothed in a dense pall of smoke. At +Rome there was sunshine, but twenty miles south hung a misty veil, +and twenty-five miles above Naples a zone of semi-obscurity began, +blotting out the sun, whose light trickled through with a sickly +glare. Everything was whitened with powdery dust; pretty white +villas were daubed and dripping with mud, and people were busy +shoveling the ashes from their roofs. + +The crowds at the stations resembled millers, their clothes flour +covered; the Campania presented the appearance of a Dakota prairie +after a blizzard of snow, though everything was gray instead of +white. The ashes lay in drifts knee deep. As the volcano was +approached semi-night replaced the day, the gloom being so deep +that telegraph poles twenty feet away could not be seen. Breathing +was difficult, and the smoke made the eyes water. At Naples, +however, a favorable wind had cleared the air of smoke, the sun +shone brightly, and the versatile people were happy once more. The +goggles and eye-screens had disappeared, but the streets were +anything but comfortable, for some six thousand men were at work +clearing the ashes from the roofs and main streets and piling them +in the middle of the narrow streets, making the passage of vehicles +very difficult and the sidewalks far from comfortable for foot +passengers. + +But while brightness and joy reigned at Naples, there were gruesome +scenes within the volcanic zone. At Bosco Trecase soldiers carried +on the work of exhumation, being able to work only an hour at a +time on account of the advanced stage of decomposition of the +bodies. Many of these were shapeless, unrecognizable masses of +flesh and bones, while others were little disfigured. To lessen +the danger of an epidemic the bodies were buried as quickly as +possible in quicklime. + +On Sunday, the 15th, the searchers at Ottejano were surprised at +finding two aged women still alive, after six days' entombment in +the ruins. They were among those who had been buried by the +falling walls a week before. The rafters of the house had +protected them, and a few morsels of food in their pockets aided to +keep them alive. At some points there the ashes were ten feet +deep. At San Giuseppe bodies of women were found in whose hands +were coins and jewels, and one woman held a jewelled rosary. This +recalls the results of exploration at Herculaneum and Pompeii, +where were similar instances of death overtaking the victims of the +volcano while fleeing with their jewels in their hands. + +It is interesting to learn that two men stood heroically to their +post of duty during the whole scene of the explosion, Professor +Matteucci, Director of the Royal Observatory, and his American +assistant, Professor Frank A. Perret, of New York. Though the +building occupied by them was exposed to the full force of the rain +of stones from the burning mountain, they remained undauntedly at +their post through that week of terror. On the 14th some of that +venturesome fraternity, the newspaper correspondents, reached their +eyrie on the highest habitable point on Vesuvius and heard the +story of their experiences. + + +THE HEROES OF THE OBSERVATORY. + + +For several days Professors Matteucci and Perret and their two +servants had been cut off from the outside world and bombarded by +the volcano, their rations consisting of bread, cheese and dried +onions, until on Friday a hardy guide was induced to push through +to them with some provisions. During the eruption the Professor +had kept at his instruments, taking observations day and night and +making calculations in the midst of the inferno. Roughly dressed, +he looked like a Western cowboy after a hard ride in a dust storm. +The portico where he stood was knee deep in ashes, and from the +observatory terrace narrow paths had been cut through the ashes, +but as far as the eye could reach an ocean of ashes and twisted +rivers were alone visible, with Vesuvius rising grimly in the +midst. The great monster was enveloped in a cloak of white, as if +buried under a snowstorm, its surface being here and there slit +with gulches in which lava ran. At the bottom of one of those +gulches lay the wrecked remnants of the peninsular railway, a +portion of its twisted cable protruding through the ashes. As the +correspondents ascended the mountain they were surprised by the +apparition of natives, men wrinkled with age, who emerged from +dugouts just below the observatory and offered them milk and eggs, +just as if they were ordinary visitors to the volcano. As they +descended they heard the sound of a mandolin from one of these +dugouts. Evidently Vesuvius had no terrors for these case-hardened +veterans. + +We have already told the story gleaned by the correspondents from +the daring scientists. Matteucci completed his record of boldness +on Friday, the 13th, by climbing to a point far above the +observatory, at the imminent risk of his life, to observe the +conditions then existing. From what he says he believed the end of +the disturbance near, though he did not venture to predict. As for +the ashes, which a light wind was then blowing in a direction away +from Naples, he said: "The ill wind is now blowing good to other +places, for ashes are the best fertilizer it is possible to use. +It is merely a question just now of having too much of a good +thing." + +This is a fact so far as the volcanic ash is concerned. An +examination of the ashes a few days ago shows that they will prove +an active and valuable fertilizer. The fertile slopes of Vesuvius +have ever been an allurement to the vine-grower, four crops a year +being a temptation no possible danger could drive him from, and as +soon as the mountain grows surely peaceful after this eruption, we +shall find its farmers risking again the chance of its uncertain +temper. But this is not the case with the land covered with lava +and cinders. Time for their disintegration is necessary before +they can be brought under cultivation, and this is a matter of +years. After the great eruption of 1871-72 the land covered with +cinders did not bear crops for seven years, and there is no reason +that they will do so sooner on the present occasion. So for years +to come much of the volcanic soil must remain a barren and desert +void. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +The Great Lisbon and Calabrian Earthquakes. + + +To our account of the great earth convulsions of San Francisco it +is in place to append a description of some similar events of older +date. It is due to the same causes, whatever these causes may be, +the imprisoned forces within the earth acting over great distances +during the earthquake, while they are concentrated within some +limited space when the volcano begins its work. The earthquake is +the most terrible to mankind of all the natural agencies of +destruction. While the volcano usually has a greater permanent +effect upon surface conditions, it is, as a rule, much less +destructive to human life, the earthquake often shaking down cities +and burying all their inhabitants in one common grave. Violent +earthquakes are also of far more frequent occurrence than +destructive volcanic eruptions, many hundreds of them having taken +place during the historic period. + +While the earthquake is only indirectly connected with the subject +of our work, it seems desirable to make some mention of it here, at +least so far as relates to those terrible convulsions whose +destructiveness has given them special prominence in the history of +great disasters. Ancient notable examples are those which threw +down the famous Colossus of Rhodes and the Pharos of Alexandria. +The city of Antioch was a terrible sufferer from this affliction, +it having been devastated some time before the Christian era, while +in the year 859 more than 15,000 of its houses were destroyed. Of +countries subject to earthquakes, Japan has been an especial +sufferer, in some cases mountains or islands being elevated in +association with shocks; in others, great tracts of land being +swallowed up by the sea. The number of deaths in some of these +instances was enormous. + +Numerous thrilling examples of the destructive work of the +earthquake at various periods are on record. Of these we have +given elsewhere a tabular list of the more important, and shall +confine ourselves to a few striking examples of its destructive +action. In the record of great earthquakes, one of the most famous +is that which in 1755 visited the city of Lisbon, the capital of +Portugal, and left that populous, place in ruin and dire distress. +It may be well to recall the details of this dire event to the +memories of our readers. + + +THE GREAT LISBON EARTHQUAKE + + +On the night of the 31st of October, 1755, the citizens of the fair +city of Lisbon lay down to sleep, in merciful ignorance of what was +awaiting them on the morrow. The morning of the 1st of November +dawned, and gave no sign of approaching calamity. The sun rose in +its brightness, the warmth was genial, the breezes gentle, the sky +serene. It was All Saints' Day--a high festival of the Church of +Rome. The sacred edifices were thronged with eager crowds, and the +ceremonies were in full progress, when the assembled throngs were +suddenly startled from their devotions. From the ground beneath +came fearful sounds that drowned the peal of the organ and the +voices of the choirs. These underground thunders having rolled +away, an awful silence ensued. The panic-stricken multitudes were +paralyzed with terror. Immediately after the ground began to heave +with a long and gentle swell, producing giddiness and faintness +among the people. The tall piles swayed to and fro, like willows +in the wind. Shrieks of horror rose from the terrified assembly. +Again the earth heaved, and this time with a longer and higher +wave. Down came the ponderous arches, the stately columns, the +massive walls, the lofty spires, tumbling upon the heads of priests +and people. The graven images, the deified wafers, and they who +had knelt in adoration before them--the worshipped and the +worshippers alike--were in a moment buried under one +undistinguishable mass of horrible ruins. Only a few, who were +near the doors, escaped to tell the tale. + +It fared no better with those who had remained in their dwellings. +The terrible earth-wave overthrew the larger number of the private +houses in the city, burying their inhabitants under the crumbling +walls. Those who were in the streets more generally escaped, +though some there, too, were killed by falling walls. + +The sudden overthrow of so many buildings raised vast volumes of +fine dust, which filled the atmosphere and obscured the sun, +producing a dense gloom. The air was full of doleful sounds--the +groans of agony from the wounded and the dying, screams of despair +from the horrified survivors, wails of lamentation from the +suddenly bereaved, dismal howlings of dogs, and terrified cries of +other animals. + +In two or three minutes the clouds of dust fell to the ground, and +disclosed the scene of desolation which a few seconds had wrought. +The ruin, though general, was not universal. A considerable number +of houses were left standing--fortunately tenantless--for a third +great earth-wave traversed the city, and most of the buildings +which had withstood the previous shocks, already severely shaken, +were entirely overthrown. + + +WATER ADDS TO THE DESTRUCTION + + +The last disaster filled the surviving citizens with the impulse of +flight. The more fortunate of them ran in the direction of the +open country, and succeeded in saving their lives; but a great +multitude rushed down to the harbor, thinking to escape by sea. +Here, however, they were met by a new and unexpected peril. The +tide, after first retreating for a little, came rolling in with an +immense wave, about fifty feet in height, carrying with it ships, +barges and boats, and dashing them in dire confusion upon the +crowded shore. Overwhelmed by this huge wave, great numbers were, +on its retreat, swept into the seething waters and drowned. A vast +throng took refuge on a fine new marble quay, but recently +completed, which had cost much labor and expense. This the sea- +wave had spared, sweeping harmless by. But, alas! it was only for +a moment. The vast structure itself, with the whole of its living +burden, sank instantaneously into an awful chasm which opened +underneath. The mole and all who were on it, the boats and barges +moored to its sides, all of them filled with people, were in a +moment ingulfed. Not a single corpse, not a shred of raiment, not +a plank nor a splinter floated to the surface, and a hundred +fathoms of water covered the spot. To the first great sea-wave +several others succeeded, and the bay continued for a long time in +a state of tumultuous agitation. + +About two hours after the first overthrow of the buildings, a new +element of destruction came into play. The fires in the ruined +houses kindled the timbers, and a mighty conflagration, urged by a +violent wind, soon raged among the ruins, consuming everything +combustible, and completing the wreck of the city. This fire, +which lasted four days, was not altogether a misfortune. It +consumed the thousands of corpses which would otherwise have +tainted the air, adding pestilence to the other misfortunes of the +survivors. Yet they were threatened with an enemy not less +appalling, for famine stared them in the face. Almost everything +eatable within the precincts of the city had been consumed. A set +of wretches, morever, who had escaped from the ruins of the +prisons, prowled among the rubbish of the houses in search of +plunder, so that whatever remained in the shape of provisions fell +into their hands and was speedily devoured. They also broke into +the houses that remained standing, and rifled them of their +contents. It is said that many of those who had been only injured +by the ruins, and might have escaped by being extricated, were +ruthlessly murdered by those merciless villains. + +The total loss of life by this terrible catastrophe is estimated at +60,000 persons, of whom about 40,000 perished at once, and the +remainder died afterwards of the injuries and privations they +sustained. Twelve hundred were buried in the ruins of the general +hospital, eight hundred in those of the civil prison, and several +thousands in those of the convents. The loss of property amounted +to many millions sterling. + + +WIDE-SPREAD DESTRUCTION + + +Although the earth-wave traversed the whole city, the shock was +felt more severely in some quarters than in others. All the older +part of the town, called the Moorish quarter, was entirely +overthrown; and of the newer part, about seventy of the principal +streets were ruined. Some buildings that withstood the shocks were +destroyed by fire. The cathedral, eighteen parish churches, almost +all the convents, the halls of the inquisition, the royal +residence, and several other fine palaces of the nobility and +mansions of the wealthy, the custom-houses, the warehouses filled +with merchandise, the public granaries filled with corn, and large +timber yards, with their stores of lumber, were either overthrown +or burned. + +The king and court were not in Lisbon at the time of this great +disaster, but were living in the neighborhood at the castle of +Belem, which escaped injury. The royal family, however, were so +alarmed by the shocks, that they passed the following night in +carriages out of doors. None of the officers of state were with +them at the time. On the following morning the king hastened to +the ruined city, to see what could be done toward restoring order, +aiding the wounded, and providing food for the hungry. + +The royal family and the members of the court exerted themselves to +the uttermost, the ladies devoting themselves to the preparation of +lint and bandages, and to nursing the wounded, the sick, and the +dying, of whom the numbers were overwhelming. Among the sufferers +were men of quality and once opulent citizens, who had been reduced +in a moment to absolute penury. The kitchens of the royal palace, +which fortunately remained standing, were used for the purpose of +preparing food for the starving multitudes. It is said that during +the first two or three days a pound of bread was worth an ounce of +gold. One of the first measures of the government was to buy up +all the corn that could be obtained in the neighborhood of Lisbon, +and to sell it again at a moderate price, to those who could afford +to buy, distributing it gratis to those who had nothing to pay. + +For about a month afterward earthquake shocks continued, some of +them severe. It was several months before any of the citizens +could summon courage to begin rebuilding the city. But by degrees +their confidence returned. The earth had relapsed into repose, and +they set about the task of rebuilding with so much energy, that in +ten years Lisbon again became one of the most beautiful capitals of +Europe. + + +CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LISBON EARTHQUAKE + + +The most distinguishing peculiarities of this earthquake were the +swallowing up of the mole, and the vast extent of the earth's +surface over which the shocks were felt. Several of the highest +mountains in Portugal were violently shaken, and rent at their +summits; huge masses falling from them into the neighboring +valleys. These great fractures gave rise to immense volumes of +dust, which at a distance were mistaken for smoke by those who +beheld them. Flames were also said to have been observed: but if +there were any such, they were probably electrical flashes produced +by the sudden rupture of the rocks. + +The portion of the earth's surface convulsed by this earthquake is +estimated by Humboldt to have been four times greater than the +whole extent of Europe. The shocks were felt not only over the +Spanish peninsula, but in Morocco and Algeria they were nearly as +violent. At a place about twenty-four miles from the city of +Morocco, there is said to have occurred a catastrophe much +resembling what took place at the Lisbon mole. A great fissure +opened in the earth, and an entire village, with all its +inhabitants, upwards of 8,000 in number, were precipitated into the +gulf, which immediately closed over its prey. + + +EARTHQUAKES IN CALABRIA + + +Of the numerous other examples of destructive earthquakes which +might be chosen from Old World annals, it will not be amiss to +append a brief account of those which took place in Calabria, +Italy, in 1783. These, while less wide-spread in their influence, +were much longer in duration than the Lisbon cataclysm, since they +continued, at intervals, from the 5th of February until the end of +the year. The shocks were felt all over Sicily and as far north as +Naples, but the area of severe convulsion was comparatively +limited, not exceeding five hundred square miles. + +The centre of disturbance seems to have been under the town of +Oppido in the farther Calabria, and it extended in every direction +from that spot to a distance of about twenty-two miles, with such +violence as to overthrow every city, town and village lying within +that circle. This ruin was accomplished by the first shock on the +5th of February. The second, of equal violence, on the 28th of +March, was less destructive, only because little or nothing had +been left for it to overthrow. + +At Oppido the motion was in the nature of a vertical upheaval of +the ground, which was accompanied by the opening of numerous large +chasms, into some of which many houses were ingulfed, the chasms +closing over them again almost immediately. The town itself was +situated on the summit of a hill, flanked by five steep and +difficult slopes; it was so completely overthrown by the first +shock that scarcely a fragment of wall was left standing. The hill +itself was not thrown down, but a fort which commanded the approach +to the place was hurled into the gorge below. It was on the flats +immediately surrounding the site of the town and on the rising +grounds beyond them that the great fissures and chasms were opened. +On the slope of one of the hills opposite the town there appeared a +vast chasm, in which a large quantity of soil covered with vines +and olive-trees was engulfed. This chasm remained open after the +shock, and was somewhat in the form of an amphitheatre, 500 feet +long and 200 feet in depth. + + +MOST CALAMITOUS OF THE LANDSLIPS + + +The most calamitous of the landslips occurred on the sea-coast of +the Straits of Messina, near the celebrated rock of Scilla, where +huge masses fell from the tall cliffs, overwhelming many villas and +gardens. At Gian Greco a continuous line of precipitous rocks, +nearly a mile in length, tumbled down. The aged Prince of Scilla, +after the first great shock on the 5th of February, persuaded many +of his vassals to quit the dangerous shore, and take refuge in the +fishing boats--he himself showing the example. That same night, +however, while many of the people were asleep in the boats, and +others on a flat plain a little above the sea-level, another +powerful shock threw down from the neighboring Mount Jaci a great +mass, which fell with a dreadful crash, partly into the sea, and +partly upon the plain beneath. Immediately the sea rose to a +height of twenty feet above the level ground on which the people +were stationed, and rolling over it, swept away the whole +multitude. This immense wave then retired, but returned with still +greater violence, bringing with it the bodies of the men and +animals it had previously swept away, dashing to pieces the whole +of the boats, drowning all that were in them, and wafting the +fragments far inland. The prince with 1,430 of his people perished +by this disaster. + +It was on the north-eastern shore of Sicily, however, that the +greatest amount of damage was done. The first severe shock, on the +5th of February, overthrew nearly the whole of the beautiful city +of Messina, with great loss of life. The shore for a considerable +distance along the coast was rent, and the ground along the port, +which was before quite level, became afterwards inclined towards +the sea, the depth of the water having, at the same time, increased +in several parts, through the displacement of portions of the +bottom. The quay also subsided about fourteen inches below the +level of the sea, and the houses near it were much rent. But it +was in the city itself that the most terrible desolation was +wrought--a complication of disasters having followed the shock, +more especially a fierce conflagration, whose intensity was +augmented by the large stores of oil kept in the place. + + +IMMENSE DESTRUCTION + + +According to official reports made soon after the events, the +destruction caused by the earthquakes of the 5th of February and +28th of March throughout the two Calabrias was immense. About 320 +towns and villages were entirely reduced to ruins, and about fifty +others seriously damaged. The loss of life was appalling--40,000 +having perished by the earthquakes, and 20,000 more having +subsequently died from privation and exposure, or from epidemic +diseases bred by the stagnant pools and the decaying carcases of +men and animals. The greater number were buried amid the ruins of +the houses, while others perished in the fires that were kindled in +most of the towns, particularly in Oppido, where the flames were +fed by great magazines of oil. Not a few, especially among the +peasantry dwelling in the country, were suddenly engulfed in +fissures. Many who were only half buried in the ruins, and who +might have been saved had there been help at hand, were left to die +a lingering death from cold and hunger. Four Augustine monks at +Terranuova perished thus miserably. Having taken refuge in a +vaulted sacristy, they were entombed in it alive by the masses of +rubbish, and lingered for four days, during which their cries for +help could be heard, till death put an end to their sufferings. + +Of still more thrilling interest was the case of the Marchioness +Spastara. Having fainted at the moment of the first great shock, +she was lifted by her husband, who, bearing her in his arms, +hurried with her to the harbor. Here, on recovering her senses, +she observed that her infant boy had been left behind. Taking +advantage of a moment when her husband was too much occupied to +notice her, she darted off and, running back to the house, which +was still standing, she snatched her babe from its cradle. Rushing +with him in her arms towards the staircase, she found the stair had +fallen--cutting off all further progress in that direction. She +fled from room to room, pursued by the falling materials, and at +length reached a balcony as her last refuge. Holding up her +infant, she implored the few passers-by for help; but they all, +intent on securing their own safety, turned a deaf ear to her +cries. Meanwhile the mansion had caught fire, and before long the +balcony, with the devoted lady still grasping her darling, was +hurled into the devouring flames. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +The Charleston and Other Earthquakes of the United States. + + +The twin continents of America have rivalled the record of the Old +World in their experience of earthquakes since their discovery in +1492. The first of these made note of was in Venezuela in 1530, +but they have been numerous and often disastrous since. Among them +was the great shock at Lima in 1746, by which 18,000 were killed, +and those at Guatemala in 1773, with 33,000, and at Riobamba in +1797, with 41,000 victims. It will, however, doubtless prove of +more interest to our readers if we pass over these ruinous +disasters and confine ourselves to the less destructive earthquakes +which have taken place within our own country. + +The United States, large a section of North America as it occupies, +is fortunate in being in a great measure destitute of volcanic +phenomena, while destructive earthquakes have been very rare in its +history. This, it is true, does not apply to the United States as +it is, but as it was. It has annexed the volcano and the +earthquake with its new accessions of territory. Alaska has its +volcanoes, the Philippines are subject to both forms of convulsion, +and in Hawaii we possess the most spectacular volcano of the earth, +while the earthquake is its common attendant. But in the older +United States the volcano contents itself with an occasional puff +of smoke, and eruptive phenomena are confined to the minor form of +the geyser. + +We are by no means so free from the earthquake. Slight movements +of the earth's surface are much more common than many of us +imagine, and in the history of our land there have been a number of +earth shocks of considerable violence. Prior to that of San +Francisco, the most destructive to life and property was that of +Charleston in 1886, though the 1812 convulsion in the Mississippi +Valley might have proved a much greater calamity but for the fact +that civilized man had not then largely invaded its centre of +action. + +As regards the number of earth movements in this country, we are +told that in New England alone 231 were recorded in two hundred and +fifty years, while doubtless many slighter ones were left +unrecorded. Taking the whole United States, there were 364 +recorded in the twelve years from 1872 to 1883, and in 1885 fifty- +nine were recorded, more than two-thirds of them being on the +Pacific slope. Most of these, however, were very slight, some of +them barely perceptible. + +Confining ourselves to those of the past important in their +effects, we shall first speak of the shocks which took place in New +England in 1755, in the year and month of the great earthquake at +Lisbon. On the 18th of November of that year, while the shocks at +Lisbon still continued, New England was violently shaken, loud +underground explosive noises accompanying the shocks. In the +harbors along the Atlantic coast there was much agitation of the +waters and many dead fish were thrown up on the shores. The shock, +indeed, was felt far from the coast, by the crew of a ship more +than two hundred miles out at sea from Cape Ann, Massachusetts. + +This event, however, was of minor importance, being much inferior +to that of 1812, in which year California and the Mississippi +Valley alike were affected by violent movements of the earth's +crust. The California convulsions took place in the spring and +summer of that year, extending from the beginning of May until +September. Throughout May the southern portion of that region was +violently agitated, the shocks being so frequent and severe that +people abandoned their houses and slept on the open ground. The +most destructive shocks came in September, when two Mission houses +were destroyed and many of their inmates killed. At Santa Barbara +a tidal wave invaded the coast and flowed some distance into the +interior. + +It may be said here that California has proved more subject to +severe shocks than any other section of our country. In 1865 sharp +tremors shook the whole region about the Bay of San Francisco, many +buildings being thrown down. Hardly any of brick or stone escaped +injury, though few lives were lost. In 1872 a disturbance was felt +farther west, the whole range of the Sierra Nevada mountains being +violently shaken and the earth tremblings extending into the State +of Nevada. The centre of activity was along the crest of the +range, and immense quantities of rock were thrown down from the +mountain pinnacles. A tremendous fissure opened along the eastern +base of the mountain range for forty miles, the land to the west of +the opening rising and that to the east sinking several feet. One +small settlement, that of Lone Pine, in Owen's Valley, on the east +base of the mountains, was completely demolished, from twenty to +thirty lives being lost. Luckily, the region affected had very few +inhabitants, or the calamity might have been great. + +The earthquakes of 1812 in the Mississippi Valley began in +December, 1811, and continued at intervals until 1813. As a rule +they were more distinguished by frequency than violence, though on +several occasions they were severe and had marked effects. They +extended through the valleys of the Mississippi, Arkansas and Ohio, +and their long continuance was remarkable in view of the territory +affected being far from any volcanic region. + +The surface of the valley of the Mississippi was a good deal +altered by these convulsions--several new lakes being formed, while +others were drained. Several new islands were also raised in the +river, and during one of the shocks the ground a little below New +Madrid was for a short time lifted so high as to stop the current +of the Mississippi, and cause it to flow backward. The ground on +which this town is built, and the bank of the river for fifteen +miles above it, subsided permanently about eight feet, and the +cemetery of the town fell into the river. In the neighboring +forest the trees were thrown into inclined positions in every +direction, and many of their trunks and branches were broken. It +is affirmed that in some places the ground swelled into great +waves, which burst at their summits and poured forth jets of water, +along with sand and pieces of coal, which were tossed as high as +the tops of trees. On the subsidence of these waves, there were +left several hundreds of hollow depressions from ten to thirty +yards in diameter, and about twenty feet in depth, which remained +visible for many years afterward. Some of the shocks were +vertical, and others horizontal, the latter being the most +mischievous. These earthquakes resulted in the general subsidence +of a large tract of country, between seventy and eighty miles in +length from north to south, and about thirty miles in breadth from +east to west. Lakes now mark many of the localities affected by +the earthquake movements. It is only to the fact that this country +was then very thinly settled that a great loss of life was avoided. + +New Madrid, Missouri, was a central point of this earthquake, the +shocks there being repeated with great frequency for several +months. The disturbance of the earth, however, was not confined to +the United States, but affected nearly half of the western +hemisphere, ending in the upheaval of Sabrina in the Azores, +already described. The destruction of Caracas, Venezuela, with +many thousands of its inhabitants, and the eruption of La Soufriere +volcano of St. Vincent Island were incidents of this convulsion. +Dr. J. W. Foster tells us that on the night of the disaster at +Caracas the earthquake grew intense at New Madrid, fissures being +opened six hundred feet long by twenty broad, from which water and +sand were flung to the height of forty feet. + +The most destructive of earthquakes in our former history was that +which visited Charleston, South Carolina, in 1886, the injury +caused by it being largely due to the fact that it passed through a +populous city. As it occurred after many of the people had +retired, the confusion and terror due to it were greatly augmented, +people fleeing in panic fear from the tumbling and cracking houses +to seek refuge in the widest streets and open spaces. + +South Carolina had been affected by the wide-spread earthquakes of +1812. These in some cases altered the level of the land, as is +related in Lyell's "Principles of Geology." But the effect then +was much less than in 1886. Several slight tremors occurred in the +early summer of that year, but did not excite much attention. More +distinct shocks were felt on August 27th and 28th, but the climax +was deferred till the evening of August 31st. The atmosphere that +afternoon had been unusually sultry and quiet, the breeze from the +ocean, which generally accompanies the rising tide, was almost +entirely absent, and the setting sun caused a little glow in the +sky. + +"As the hour of 9.50 was reached," we are told, "there was suddenly +heard a rushing, roaring sound, compared by some to a train of cars +at no great distance, by others to a clatter produced by two or +more omnibuses moving at a rapid rate over a paved street, by +others again, to an escape of steam from a boiler. It was followed +immediately by a thumping and beating of the earth beneath the +houses, which rocked and swayed to and fro. Furniture was +violently moved and dashed to the floor; pictures were swung from +the walls, and in some cases turned with their backs to the front, +and every movable thing was thrown into extraordinary convulsions. +The greatest intensity of the shock is considered to have been +during the first half, and it was probably then, during the period +of its greatest sway, that so many chimneys were broken off at the +junction of the roof. The duration of this severe shock is thought +to have been from thirty-five to forty seconds. The impression +produced on many was that it could be subdivided into three +distinct movements, while others were of the opinion that it was +one continuous movement, or succession of waves, with the greatest +intensity, as already stated, during the first half of its +duration." + +Twenty-seven persons were killed outright, and more than that +number died soon after of their hurts or from exposure; many others +were less seriously injured. Among the buildings, the havoc, +though much less disastrous than has been recorded in some other +earthquakes in either hemisphere, was very great. "There was not a +building in the city which had escaped serious injury. The extent +of the damage varied greatly, ranging from total demolition down to +the loss of chimney tops and the dislodgment of more or less +plastering. The number of buildings which were completely +demolished and levelled to the ground was not great; but there were +several hundreds which lost a large portion of their walls. There +were very many also which remained standing, but so badly shattered +that public safety required that they should be pulled down +altogether. There was not, so far as at present is known, a brick +or stone building which was not more or less cracked, and in most +of them the cracks were a permanent disfigurement and a source of +danger and inconvenience." In some places the railway track was +curiously distorted. "It was often displaced laterally, and +sometimes alternately depressed and elevated. Occasionally several +lateral flexures of double curvature and of great amount were +exhibited. Many hundred yards of track had been shoved bodily to +the south eastward." + +The ground was fissured at some places in the city to a depth of +many feet, and numerous "craterlets" were formed, from which sand +was ejected in considerable quantities. These are not uncommon +phenomena, and were due, no doubt, to the squirting of water out of +saturated sandy layers not far below the surface; these being +squeezed between two less pervious beds in the passage of the +earthquake wave. The ejected material in the Charleston earthquake +was ordinary sand, such as might exist in many districts which had +been quite undisturbed by any concussions of the earth. + +Captain Dutton made a careful study of the observations collected +by himself and others concerning this earthquake, and came to the +conclusion that the Charleston wave traveled with unusual speed, +for its mean velocity was about 17,000 feet a second. The focus of +the disturbance was also ascertained. Apparently it was a double +one, the two centres being about thirteen miles apart, and the line +joining them running nearly the same distance to the west of +Charleston. The approximate depth of the principal focus is given +as twelve miles, with a possible error of less than two miles; that +of the minor one as roughly eight miles. + +The Charleston earthquake was felt as a tremor of more or less +force through a wide area, embracing 900,000 square miles, and +affecting nearly the whole country east of the Mississippi. It is +said that the yield of the Pennsylvania natural gas wells +decreased, and that a geyser in the Yellowstone valley burst into +action after four years of rest. The movement of the earth-wave +was in general north and south, deflected to east and west, and the +snake-like fashion in which rails on the railroad were bent +indicated both a vertical and a lateral force. + +This earthquake has been attributed to various causes, but +geological experts think that it was due to a slip in the crust +along the Appalachian Mountain chain. There is a line of weakness +along the eastern slope of this chain, characterized by fissures +and faults, and it was thought that a strain had been gradually +brought to bear upon this through the removal of earth from the +land by rains and rivers and its deposition in thick strata on the +sea-bottom. It is supposed that this variation in weight in time +caused a yielding of the strata and a slip seaward of the great +coastal plain. Professor Mendenhall, however, thinks it was due to +a readjustment of the earth's crust to its gradually sinking +nucleus. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +The Volcano and the Earthquake, Earth's Demons of Destruction. + + +To most of us, dwellers upon the face of the earth, this +terrestrial sphere is quite a comfortable place of residence. The +forces of Nature everywhere and at all times surround us, forces +capable, if loosened from their bonds, of bringing death and +destruction to man and the work of his hands. But usually they are +mild and beneficent in their action, not agents of destruction and +lords of elemental misrule. The air, without whose presence we +could not survive a minute, is usually a pleasant companion, now +resting about us in soft calm, now passing by in mild breezes. The +alternation of summer and winter is to us generally an agreeable +relief from the monotony of a uniform climate. The variation from +sunlight to cloud, from dry weather to rainfall, is equally viewed +as a pleasant escape from the weariness of too great fixity of +natural conditions. The change from day to night, from hours of +activity to hours of slumber, are other agreeable variations in the +events of our daily life. In short, a great pendulum seems to be +swinging above us, held in Nature's kindly hand, and adapting its +movements to our best good and highest enjoyment. + +But has Nature,--if we are justified in personifying the laws and +forces of the universe,--has mother Nature really our pleasure and +benefit in mind, or does she merely suffer us to enjoy life like so +many summer insects, until she is in the mood to sweep us like +leaves from her path? It must seem the latter to many of the +inhabitants of the earth, especially to the dwellers in certain +ill-conditioned regions. For all the beneficent powers above named +may at a moment's notice change to destructive ones. + + +THE WIND IS A DEMON IN CHAINS + + +The wind, for instance, is a demon in chains. At times it breaks +its fetters and rushes on in mad fury, rending and destroying, and +sweeping such trifles as cities and those who dwell therein to +common ruin. Sunshine and rain are subject to like wild caprices. +The sun may pour down burning rays for weeks and months together, +scorching the fertile fields, drying up the life-giving streams, +bringing famine and misery to lands of plenty and comfort, almost +making the blood to boil in our veins. Its antithesis, the +rainstorm, is at times a still more terrible visitant. From the +dense clouds pour frightful floods, rushing down the lofty hills, +sweeping over fertile plains, overflowing broad river valleys, and, +wherever they go, leaving terror and death in their path. We may +say the same of the alternation of the seasons. Summer, while +looked forward to with joyous anticipation, may bring us only +suffering by its too ardent grasp; and winter, often welcomed with +like pleasurable anticipations, may prove a period of terror from +cold and destitution. + +Such is the make-up of the world in which we live, such the +vagaries of the forces which surround us. But those enumerated are +not the whole. Can we say, with a stamp of the foot upon the solid +earth, "Here at least I have something I can trust; let the winds +blow and the rains descend, let the summer scorch and the winter +chill, the good earth still stands firm beneath me, and of it at +least I am sure?" + +Who says so speaks hastily and heedlessly, for the earth can show +itself as unstable as the air, and our solid footing become as +insecure as the deck of a ship laboring in a storm at sea. The +powers of the atmosphere, great as they are and mighty for +destruction as they may become, are at times surpassed by those +which abide within the earth, deep laid in the so-called +everlasting rocks, slumbering often through generations, but at any +time likely to awaken in wrath, to lift the earth into quaking +billows like those of the sea, or pour forth torrents of liquid +fire that flow in glowing and burning rivers over leagues of ruined +land. Such is the earth with which we have to deal, such the +ruthless powers of nature that spread around us and lurk beneath +us, such the terrific forces which only bide their time to break +forth and sweep too-confident man from the earth's smiling face. + + +THE SUBTERRANEAN POWERS + + +The subterranean powers here spoken of, those we had denominated +earth's demons of destruction, are the volcano and the earthquake, +the great moulding forces of the earth, tearing down to rebuild, +rending to reconstitute, and in this elemental work often bringing +ruin to man's boasted fanes and palaces. + +No one who has ever seen a volcano or "burning mountain" casting +forth steam, huge red-hot stones, smoke, cinders and lava, can +possibly forget the grandeur of the spectacle. At night it is +doubly terrible, when the darkness shows the red-hot lava rolling +in glowing streams down the mountain's side. At times, indeed, the +volcano is quiet, and only a little smoke curls from its top. Even +this may cease, and the once burning summit may be covered over +with trees and grass, like any other hill. But deep down in the +earth the gases and pent-up steam, are ever preparing to force +their way upward through the mountain, and to carry with them +dissolved rocks, and the stones which block their passage. +Sometimes, while all is calm and beautiful on the mountains, +suddenly deep-sounding noises are heard, the ground shakes, and a +vast torrent tears its way through the bowels of the volcano, and +is flung hundreds of feet high in the air, and, falling again to +the earth, destroys every living thing for miles around. + +It is the same with the earthquake as with the volcano. The +surface of the earth is never quite still. Tremors are constantly +passing onward which can be distinguished by delicate instruments, +but only rarely are these of sufficient force to become noticeable, +except by instrumental means. At intervals, however, the power +beneath the surface raises the ground in long, billow-like motions, +before which, when of violent character, no edifice or human +habitation can for a moment stand. The earth is frequently rent +asunder, great fissures and cavities being formed. The course of +rivers is changed and the waters are swallowed up by fissures rent +in the surface, while ruin impends in a thousand forms. The cities +become death pits and the cultivated fields are buried beneath +floods of liquid mud. Fortunately these convulsions, alike of the +earthquake and volcano, are comparative rarities and are confined +to limited regions of the earth's surface. What do we know of +those deep-lying powers, those vast buried forces dwelling in +uneasy isolation beneath our feet? With all our science we are but +a step beyond the ancients, to whom these were the Titans, great +rebel giants whom Jupiter overthrew and bound under the burning +mountains, and whose throes of agony shook the earth in quaking +convulsions. To us the volcanic crater is the mouth from which +comes the fiery breath of demon powers which dwell far down in the +earth's crust. The Titans themselves were dwarfs beside these +mighty agents of destruction whose domain extends for thousands of +miles beneath the earth's surface and which in their convulsions +shake whole continents at once. Such was the case in 1812, when +the eruption of Mont Soufriere on St. Vincent, as told in a later +chapter, formed merely the closing event in a series of earthquakes +which had made themselves felt under thousands of miles of land. + + +ANCIENT AWE OF VOLCANOES + + +In olden times volcanoes were regarded with superstitious awe, and +it would have been considered highly impious to make any +investigation of their actions. We are told by Virgil that Mt. +Etna marks the spot where the gods in their anger buried Enceladus, +one of the rebellious giants. To our myth-making ancestors one of +the volcanoes of the Mediterranean, set on a small island of the +Lipari group, was the workshop of Vulcan, the god of fire, within +whose depths he forged the thunderbolts of the gods. From below +came sounds as of a mighty hammer on a vast anvil. Through the +mountain vent came the black smoke and lurid glow from the fires of +Vulcan's forge. This old myth is in many respects more consonant +with the facts of nature than myths usually are. In agreement with +the theory of its internal forces, the mountain in question was +given the name of Volcano. To-day it is scarcely known at all, but +its name clings to all the fire-breathing mountains of the earth. + +As before said, at the present day we are little in advance of the +ancients in actual knowledge of what is going on so far beneath our +feet. We speak of forces where they spoke of fettered giants, but +can only form theories where they formed myths. Is the earth's +centre made up of liquid fire? Does its rock crust resemble the +thick ice crust on the Arctic Seas, or is the earth, as later +scientists believe, solid to the core? Is it heated so fiercely, +miles below our feet, that at every release of pressure the solid +rock bursts into molten lava? Is the steam from the contact of +underground rivers and deep-lying fires the origin of the terrible +rending powers of the volcano's depths? Truly we can answer none +of these questions with assurance, and can only guess and +conjecture from the few facts open to us what lies concealed far +beneath. + + +RARITY OF ANCIENT ACCOUNTS + + +In the history of earthquakes nothing is more remarkable than the +extreme fewness of those recorded before the beginning of the +Christian era, in comparison with those that have been registered +since that time. It is to be borne in mind, however, that before +the birth of Christ only a small portion of the globe was inhabited +by those likely to make a record of natural events. The vast +apparent increase in the number of earthquakes in recent times is +owing to a greater knowledge of the earth's surface and to the +spread of civilization over lands once inhabited by savages. The +same is to be said of volcanic eruptions, which also have +apparently increased greatly since the beginning of the Christian +era. There may possibly have been a natural increase in these +phenomena, but this is hardly probable, the change being more +likely due to the increase in the number of observers. + +The structure of a volcano is very different from that of other +mountains, really consisting of layers of lava and volcanic ashes, +alternating with each other and all sloping away from the center. +These elevations, in fact, are formed in a different manner from +ordinary mountains. The latter have been uplifted by the influence +of pressure in the interior of the earth, but the volcano is an +immediate result of the explosive force of which we have spoken, +the mountain being gradually built up by the lava and other +materials which it has flung up from below. In this way mountains +of immense height and remarkable regularity have been formed. +Mount Orizabo, near the City of Mexico, for instance, is a +remarkably regular cone, undoubtedly formed in this way, and the +same may be said of Mount Mayon, on the Island of Luzon. + +In many cases the irregularity of the volcano is due to subsequent +action of its forces, which may blow the mountain itself to pieces. +In the case of Krakatoa, in the East Indies, for instance, the +whole mountain was rent into fragments, which were flung as dust +miles high into the air. The main point we wish to indicate is +that volcanoes are never formed by ordinary elevating forces and +that they differ in this way from all other mountains. On the +contrary, they have been piled up like rubbish heaps, resembling +the small mountains of coal dust near the mouths of anthracite +mines. + +It is to the burning heat of the earth's crust and the influence of +pressure, and more largely to the influx of water to the molten +rocks which lie miles below the surface, that these convulsions of +nature are due. Water, on reaching these overheated strata, +explodes into volumes of steam, and if there is no free vent to the +surface, it is apt to rend the very mountain asunder in its efforts +to escape. Such is supposed to have been the case in the eruption +of Krakatoa, and was probably the case also in the recent case of +Mt. Pelee. + + +GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ERUPTIONS + + +If we should seek to give a general description of volcanic +eruptions, it would be in some such words as follows: An eruption +is usually preceded by earthquakes which affect the whole +surrounding country, and associated with which are underground +explosions that seem like the sound of distant artillery. The +mountain quivers with internal convulsions, due to the efforts of +its confined forces to find an opening. The drying up of wells and +disappearance of springs are apt to take place, the water sinking +downward through cracks newly made in the rocks. Finally the +fierce unchained energy rends an opening through the crater and an +eruption begins. It comes usually with a terrible burst that +shakes the mountain to its foundation; explosions following rapidly +and with increasing violence, while steam issues and mounts upward +in a lofty column. The steam and escaping gases in their fierce +outbreaks hurl up into the air great quantities of solid rock torn +from the sides of the opening. The huge blocks, meeting each other +in their rise and fall, are gradually broken and ground into minute +fragments, forming dust or so-called ashes, often of extreme +fineness, and in such quantities as frequently to blot out the +light of the sun. There is another way in which a great deal of +volcanic dust is made; the lava is full of steam, which in its +expansion tears the molten rock into atoms, often converting it +into the finest dust. + +The eruption of Mt. Skaptar, in Iceland, in 1783, sent up such +volumes of dust that the atmosphere was loaded with it for months, +and it was carried to the northern part of Scotland, 600 miles +away, in such quantities as to destroy the crops. During the +eruption of Tomboro, in the East Indies, in 1815, so great was the +quantity of dust thrown up that it caused darkness at midday in +Java 300 miles away and covered the ground to a depth of several +inches. Floating pumice formed a layer on the ocean surface two +and a half feet in thickness, through which vessels had difficulty +in forcing their way. + +The steam which rises in large volumes into the air may become +suddenly condensed with the chill of the upper atmosphere and fall +as rain, torrents of which often follow an eruption. The rain, +falling through the clouds of volcanic dust, brings it to the earth +as liquid mud, which pours in thick streams down the sides of the +mountain. The torrents of flowing mud are sometimes on such a +great scale that large towns, as in the instance of the great city +of Herculaneum, may be completely buried beneath them. Over this +city the mud accumulated to the depth of over 70 feet. In addition +to these phenomena, molten lava often flows from the lip of the +crater, occasionally in vast quantities. In the Icelandic eruption +of 1783 the lava streams were so great in quantity as to fill river +gorges 600 ft. deep and 200 ft. wide, and to extend over an open +plain to a distance of 12 to 15 miles, forming lakes of lava 100 +feet deep. The volcanoes of Hawaii often send forth streams of +lava which cover an area of over 100 square miles to a great depth. + + +GREAT OUTFLOWS OF LAVA + + +In the course of ages lava outflows of this kind have built up in +Hawaii a volcanic mountain estimated to contain enough material to +cover the whole of the United States with a layer of rock 50 feet +deep. These great outflows of lava are not confined to mountains, +but take place now and then from openings in the ground, or from +long cracks in the surface rocks. Occasionally great eruptions +have taken place beneath the ocean's surface, throwing up material +in sufficient quantity to form new islands. + +The formation of mud is not confined to the method given, but great +quantities of this plastic material flow at times from volcanic +craters. In the year 1691 Imbaburu, one of the peaks of the Andes, +sent out floods of mud which contained dead fish in such abundance +that their decay caused a fever in the vicinity. The volcanoes of +Java have often buried large tracts of fertile country under +volcanic mud. + +An observation of volcanoes shows us that they have three well +marked phases of action. The first of these is the state of +permanent eruption, as in case of the volcano of Stromboli in the +Mediterranean. This state is not a dangerous one, since the steam, +escaping continually, acts as a safety valve. The second stage is +one of milder activity with an occasional somewhat violent +eruption; this is apt to be dangerous, though not often very +greatly so. The safety valve is partly out of order. The third +phase is one in which long periods of repose, sometimes lasting for +centuries, are followed by eruptions of intense energy. These are +often of extreme violence and cause widespread destruction. In +this case the safety valve has failed to work and the boiler +bursts. + + +OFTEN REST FOR LONG TERMS OF YEARS + + +Such are the general features of action in the vast powers which +dwell deep beneath the surface, harmless in most parts of the +earth, frightfully perilous in others. Yet even here they often +rest for long terms of years in seeming apathy, until men gather +above their lurking places in multitudes, heedless or ignorant of +the sleeping demons that bide their time below. Their time is sure +to come, after years, perhaps after centuries. Suddenly the solid +earth begins to tremble and quake; roars as of one of the buried +giants of old strike all men with dread; then, with a fierce +convulsion, a mountain is rent in twain and vast torrents of steam, +burning rock, and blinding dust are hurled far upward into the air, +to fall again and bury cities, perhaps, with all their inhabitants +in indiscriminate ruin and death. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Theories of Volcanic and Earthquake Action. + + +Though the first formation of a volcano (Italian, vulcano, from +Vulcan, the Roman god of fire) has seldom been witnessed, it would +seem that it is marked by earthquake movements followed by the +opening of a rent or fissure; but with no such tilting up of the +rocks as was once supposed to take place. From this fissure large +volumes of steam issue, accompanied by hydrogen, nitrogen, carbon +dioxide, hydrochloric acid, and sulphur dioxide. The hydrogen, +apparently derived from the dissociation of water at a high +temperature, flashes explosively into union with atmospheric +oxygen, and, having exerted its explosive force, the steam +condenses into cloud, heavy masses of which overhang the volcano, +pouring down copious rains. This naturally disturbs the electrical +condition of the atmosphere, so that thunder and lightning are +frequent accompaniments of an eruption. The hydrochloric acid +probably points to the agency of sea-water. Besides the gases just +mentioned, sulphuretted hydrogen, ammonia and common salt occur; +but mainly as secondary products, formed by the union of the vapors +issuing from the volcano, and commonly found also in the vapors +rising from cooling lava streams or dormant volcanic districts. It +is important to notice that the vapors issue from the volcano +spasmodically, explosions succeeding each other with great rapidity +and noise. + +All substances thrown out by the volcano, whether gaseous, liquid +or solid, are conveniently united under the term ejectamenta +(Latin, things thrown out), and all of them are in an intensely +heated, if not an incandescent state. Most of the gases are +incombustible, but the hydrogen and those containing sulphur burn +with a true flame, perhaps rendered more visible by the presence of +solid particles. Much of the so-called flame, however, in popular +descriptions of eruptions is an error of observation due to the +red-hot solid particles and the reflection of the glowing orifice +on the over-hanging clouds. + + +ENORMOUS FORCE DISPLAYED + + +Solid bodies are thrown into the air with enormous force and to +proportionally great heights, those not projected vertically +falling in consequence at considerable distances from the volcano. +A block weighing 200 tons is said to have been thrown nine miles by +Cotopaxi; masses of rock weighing as much as twenty tons to have +been ejected by Mount Ararat in 1840; and stones to have been +hurled to a distance of thirty-six miles in other cases. The solid +matter thrown out by volcanoes consists of lapilli, scoriae, dust +and bombs. + +Though on the first formation of the volcano, masses of non- +volcanic rock may be torn from the chimney or pipe of the mountain, +only slightly fused externally owing to the bad conducting power of +most rocks, and hurled to a distance; and though at the beginning +of a subsequent eruption the solid plug of rock which has cooled at +the bottom of the crater, or, in fact, any part of the volcano, may +be similarly blown up, the bulk of the solid particles of which the +volcano itself is composed is derived from the lake of lava or +molten rock which seethes at the orifice. Solid pieces rent from +this fused mass and cast up by the explosive force of the steam +with which the lava is saturated are known as lapilli. Cooling +rapidly so as to be glassy in texture externally, these often have +time to become perfectly crystalline within. + +Gases and steam escaping from other similar masses may leave them +hollow, when they are termed bombs, or may pit their surfaces with +irregular bubble-cavities, when they are called scoriae or +scoriaceous. Such masses whirling through the air in a plastic +state often become more or less oblately spheroidal in form; but, +as often, the explosive force of their contained vapors shatters +them into fragments, producing quantities of the finest volcanic +dust or sand. This fine dust darkens the clouds overhanging the +mountain, mixes with the condensed steam to fall as a black mud- +rain, or lava di aqua (Italian, water lava), or is carried up to +enormous heights, and then slowly diffused by upper currents of the +atmosphere. In the eruption of Vesuvius of A.D. 79, the air was +dark as midnight for twelve or fifteen miles round; the city of +Pompeii was buried beneath a deposit of dry scoriae, or ashes and +dust, and Herculaneum beneath a layer of the mud-like lava di aqua, +which on drying sets into a compact rock. Rocks formed from these +fragmentary volcanic materials are known as tuff. + + +VOLCANIC CONES HAVE SIMILAR CURVATURES + + +It is entirely of these cindery fragments heaped up with marvellous +rapidity round the orifice that the volcano itself is first formed. +It may, as in the case of Jorullo in Mexico in 1759, form a cone +several hundred feet high in less than a day. Such a cone may have +a slope as steep as 30 or 40 degrees, its incline in all cases +depending simply on the angle of repose of its materials; the +inclination, that is, at which they stop rolling. The great +volcanoes of the Andes, which are formed mainly of ash, are very +steep. Owing to a general similarity in their materials, volcanic +cones in all parts of the world have very similar curvatures; but +older volcanic mountains, in which lava-streams have broken through +the cone, secondary cones have arisen, or portions have been blown +up, are more irregular in outline and more gradual in inclination. + +In size, volcanoes vary from mere mounds a few yards in diameter, +such as the salses or mud volcanoes near the Caspian, to Etna, +10,800 feet high, with a base 30 miles in diameter; Cotopaxi, in +the Andes, 18,887 feet high; or Mauna Loa, in the Sandwich Isles, +13,700 feet high; with a base 70 miles in diameter, and two +craters, one of which, Kilauea, the largest active crater on our +earth, is seven miles in circuit. Larger extinct craters occur in +Japan; but all our terrestrial volcanic mountains are dwarfed by +those observed on the surface of the moon, which, owing to its +smaller size, has cooled more rapidly than our earth. It is, of +course, the explosive force from below which keeps the crater +clear, as a cup-shaped hollow, truncating the cone; and all stones +falling into it would be only thrown out again. It may at the +close of an eruption cool down so completely that a lake can form +within it, such as Lake Averno, near Naples; or it may long remain +a seething sea of lava, such as Kilauea; or the lava may find one +or more outlets from it, either by welling over its rim, which it +will then generally break down, as in many of the small extinct +volcanoes ("puys") of Auvergne, or more usually by bursting through +the sides of the cone. + + +LAVA VARIES VERY MUCH IN LIQUIDITY + + +It is not generally until the volcano has exhausted its first +explosive force that lava begins to issue. Several streams may +issue in different directions. Their dimensions are sometimes +enormous. Lava varies very much in liquidity and in the rate at +which it flows. This much depends, however, upon the slope it has +to traverse. A lava stream at Vesuvius ran three miles in four +minutes, but took three hours to flow the next three miles, while a +stream from Mauna Loa ran eighteen miles in two hours. Glowing at +first as a white-hot liquid, the lava soon cools at the surface to +red and then to black; cinder-like scoriaceous masses form on its +surface and in front of the slowly-advancing mass; clouds of steam +and other vapor rise from it, and little cones are thrown up from +its surface; but many years may elapse before the mass is cooled +through. Thus, while the surface is glassy, the interior becomes +crystalline. + +As to what are the causes of the great convulsions of nature known +as the volcano and the earthquake we know very little. Various +theories have been advanced, but nothing by any means sure has been +discovered, and considerable difference of opinion exists. In +truth we know so little concerning the conditions existing in the +earth's interior that any views concerning the forces at work there +must necessarily be largely conjectural. + +Sir Robert S. Ball says, in this connection: "Let us take, for +instance, that primary question in terrestrial physics, as to +whether the interior of the earth is liquid or solid. If we were +to judge merely from the temperatures reasonably believed to exist +at a depth of some twenty miles, and if we might overlook the +question of pressure, we should certainly say that the earth's +interior must be in a fluid state. It seems at least certain that +the temperatures to be found at depths of two score miles, and +still more at greater depths, must be so high that the most +refractory solids, whether metals or minerals, would at once yield +if we could subject them to such temperatures in our laboratories. +But none of our laboratory experiments can tell us whether, under +the pressure of thousands of tons on the square inch, the +application of any heat whatever would be adequate to transform +solids into liquids. It may, indeed, be reasonably doubted whether +the terms solid and liquid are applicable, in the sense in which we +understand them, to the materials forming the interior of the +earth. + +"A principle, already well known in the arts, is that many, if not +all, solids may be made to flow like liquids if only adequate +pressure be applied. The making of lead tubes is a well-known +practical illustration of this principle, for these tubes are +formed simply by forcing solid lead by the hydraulic press through +a mould which imparts the desired shape. + +"If then a solid can be made to behave like a liquid, even with +such pressures as are within our control, how are we to suppose +that the solids would behave with such pressures as those to which +they are subjected in the interior of the earth? The fact is that +the terms solid and liquid, at least as we understand them, appear +to have no physical meaning with regard to bodies subjected to +these stupendous pressures, and this must be carefully borne in +mind when we are discussing the nature of the interior of the +earth." + + +THE VOLCANO A SAFETY VALVE + + +Whatever be the state of affairs in the depths of the earth's +crust, we may look upon the volcano as a sort of safety-valve, +opening a passage for the pent-up forces to the surface, and thus +relieving the earth from the terrible effects of the earthquake, +through which these imprisoned powers so often make themselves +felt. Without the volcanic vent there might be no safety for man +on the earth's unquiet face. + +Professor J. C. Russell, of Michigan University, presents the +following views concerning the status and action of volcanoes:-- + +"When reduced to its simplest terms, a volcano may be defined as a +tube, or conduit, in the earth's crust, through which the molten +rock is forced to the surface. The conduit penetrates the cool and +rigid rocks forming the superficial portion of the earth, and +reaches its highly heated interior. + +"The length of volcanic conduits can only be conjectured, but, +judging from the approximately known rate of increase of heat with +depth (on an average one degree Fahrenheit for each sixty feet), +and the temperature at which volcanic rocks melt (from 2,300 to +2,700 degrees Fahrenheit, when not under pressure), they must +seemingly have a depth of at least twenty miles. There are other +factors to be considered, but in general terms it is safe to assume +that the conduits of volcanoes are irregular openings, many miles +in depth, which furnish passageways for molten rock (lava) from the +highly-heated sub-crust portion of the earth to its surface. . . . + + +ERUPTIONS OF QUIET TYPE + + +"During eruptions of the quiet type, the lava comes to the surface +in a highly liquid condition--that is, it is thoroughly fused, and +flows with almost the freedom of water. It spreads widely, even on +a nearly level plain, and may form a comparatively thin sheet +several hundred square miles in area, as has been observed in +Iceland and Hawaii. On the Snake River plains, in Southern Idaho, +there are sheets of once molten rock which were poured out in the +manner just stated, some four hundred square miles in area and not +over seventy-five feet in average thickness. When an eruption of +highly liquid lava occurs in a mountainous region, the molten rock +may cascade down deep slopes and flow through narrow valleys for +fifty miles or more before becoming chilled sufficiently to arrest +its progress. Instances are abundant where quiet eruptions have +occurred in the midst of a plain, and built up 'lava cones,' or low +mounds, with immensely expanded bases. Illustrations are furnished +in Southern Idaho, in which the cones formed are only three hundred +or four hundred feet high, but have a breadth at the base of eight +or ten miles. In the class of eruption illustrated by these +examples, there is an absence of fragmental material, such as +explosive volcanoes hurl into the air, and a person may stand +within a few yards of a rushing stream of molten rock, or examine +closely the opening from which it is being poured out, without +danger or serious inconvenience. + +"The quiet volcanic eruptions are attended by the escape of steam +or gases from the molten rock, but the lava being in a highly +liquid state, the steam and gases dissolved in it escape quietly +and without explosions. If, however, the molten rock is less +completely fluid, or in a viscous condition, the vapors and gases +contained in it find difficulty in escaping, and may be retained +until, becoming concentrated in large volume, they break their way +to the surface, producing violent explosions. Volcanoes in which +the lava extruded is viscous, and the escape of steam and gases is +retarded until the pent-up energy bursts all bounds, are of the +explosive, type. One characteristic example is Vesuvius. + +"When steam escapes from the summit of a volcanic conduit--which, +in plain terms, is a tall vessel filled with intensely hot and more +or less viscous liquid--masses of the liquid rock are blown into +the air, and on falling build up a rim or crater about the place of +discharge. Commonly the lava in the summit portion of a conduit +becomes chilled and perhaps hardened, and when a steam explosion +occurs this crust is shattered and the fragments hurled into the +air and contributed to the building of the walls of the inclosing +crater. + +"The solid rock blown out by volcanoes consists usually of highly +vesicular material which hardened on the surface of the column of +lava within a conduit and was shattered by explosions beneath it. +These fragments vary in size from dust particles up to masses +several feet in diameter, and during violent eruptions are hurled +miles high. The larger fragments commonly fall near their place of +origin, and usually furnish the principal part of the material of +which craters are built, but the gravel-like kernels, lapilli, may +be carried laterally several miles if a wind is blowing, while the +dust is frequently showered down on thousands of square miles of +land and sea. The solid and usually angular fragments manufactured +in this manner vary in temperature, and may still be red hot on +falling. + +"Volcanoes of the explosive type not uncommonly discharge streams +of lava, which may flow many miles. In certain instances these +outwellings of liquid rock occur after severe earthquakes and +violent explosions, and may have all the characteristics of quiet +eruptions. There is thus no fundamental difference between the two +types into which it is convenient to divide volcanoes. + + +MOUNTAINS BLOW THEIR HEADS OFF + + +"In extreme examples of explosive volcanoes, the summit portion of +a crater, perhaps several miles in circumference and several +thousand feet high, is blown away. Such an occurrence is recorded +in the case of the volcano Coseguina, Nicaragua, in 1835. Or, an +entire mountain may disappear, being reduced to lapilli and dust +and blown into the air, as in the case of Krakatoa, in the Straits +of Sunda, in 1883. + +"The essential feature of a volcano, as stated above, is a tube or +conduit, leading from the highly heated sub-crust portion of the +earth to the crater and through which molten rock is forced upward +to the surface. The most marked variations in the process depend +on the quantity of molten rock extruded, and on the freedom of +escape of the steam and gases contained in the lava. + +"The cause of the rise of the molten rock in a volcano is still a +matter for discussion. Certain geologists contend that steam is +the sole motive power; while others consider that the lava is +forced to the surface owing to pressure on the reservoir from which +it comes. The view perhaps most favorably entertained at present, +in reference to the general nature of volcanic eruptions, is that +the rigid outer portion of the earth becomes fractured, owing +principally to movements resulting from the shrinking of the +cooling inner mass, and that the intensely hot material reached by +the fissures, previously solid owing to pressure, becomes liquid +when pressure is relieved, and is forced to the surface. As the +molten material rises it invades the water-charged rocks near the +surface and acquires steam, or the gases resulting from the +decomposition of water, and a new force is added which produces the +most conspicuous and at times the most terrible phenomena +accompanying eruptions." + +The active agency of water is strongly maintained by many +geologists, and certainly gains support from the vast clouds of +steam given off by volcanoes in eruption and the steady and quiet +emission of steam from many in a state of rest. The quantities of +water in the liquid state, to which is due the frequent enormous +outflows of mud, leads to the same conclusion. Many scientists, +indeed, while admitting the agency of water, look upon this as the +aqueous material originally pent up within the rocks. For instance +Professor Shaler, dean of the Lawrence Scientific School, says: + +"Volcanic outbreaks are merely the explosion of steam under high +pressure, steam which is bound in rocks buried underneath the +surface of the earth and there subjected to such tremendous heat +that when the conditions are right its pent-up energy breaks forth +and it shatters its stone prison walls into dust. The process by +which the water becomes buried in this manner is a long one. Some +contend that it leaks down from the surface of the earth through +fissures in the outer crust, but this theory is not generally +accepted. The common belief is that water enters the rocks during +the crystalization period, and that these rocks through the natural +action of rivers and streams become deposited in the bottom of the +ocean. Here they lie for many ages, becoming buried deeper and +deeper under masses of like sediment, which are constantly being +washed down upon them from above. This process is called the +blanketing process. + +"Each additional layer of sediment, while not raising the level of +the sea bottom, buries the first layers just so much the deeper and +adds to their temperature just as does the laying of extra blankets +on a bed. When the first layer has reached a depth of a few +thousand feet the rocks which contain the water of crystalization +are subjected to a terrific heat. This heat generates steam, which +is held in a state of frightful tension in its rocky prison. +Wrinklings in the outer crust of the earth's surface occur, caused +by the constant shrinking of the earth itself and by the +contraction of the outer surface as it settles on the plastic +centers underneath. Fissures are caused by these foldings, and as +these fissures reach down into the earth the pressure is removed +from the rocks and the compressed steam in them, being released, +explodes with tremendous force." + +This view is, very probably, applicable to many cases, and the +exceedingly fine dust which so often rises from volcanoes has, +doubtless, for one of its causes the sudden and explosive +conversion of water into steam in the interior of ejected lava, +thus rending it into innumerable fragments. But that this is the +sole mode of action of water in volcanic eruptions is very +questionable. It certainly does not agree with the immense volumes +at times thrown out, while explosions of such extreme intensity as +that of Krakatoa very strongly lead to the conclusion that a great +mass of water has made its way through newly opened fissures to the +level of molten rock, and exploded into steam with a suddenness +which gave it the rending force of dynamite or the other powerful +chemical explosives. + +As the earthquake is so intimately associated with the volcano the +causes of the latter are in great measure the causes of the former, +and the forces at work frequently produce a more or less violent +quaking of the earth's surface before they succeed in opening a +channel of escape through the mountain's heart. One agency of +great potency, and one whose work never ceases, has doubtless much +to do with earthquake action. In the description of this we cannot +do better than to quote from "The Earth's Beginning" of Sir Robert +S. Ball. + + +CAUSE OF EARTHQUAKES + + +"As to the immediate cause of earthquakes there is no doubt +considerable difference of opinion. But I think it will not be +doubted that an earthquake is one of the consequences, though +perhaps a remote one, of the gradual loss of internal heat from the +earth. As this terrestrial heat is gradually declining, it follows +from the law that we have already so often had occasion to use that +the bulk of the earth must be shrinking. No doubt the diminution +in the earth's diameter due to the loss of heat must be exceedingly +small, even in a long period of time. The cause, however, is +continually in operation, and, accordingly, the crust of the earth +has from time to time to be accommodated to the fact that the whole +globe is lessening. The circumference of our earth at the equator +must be gradually declining; a certain length in that circumference +is lost each year. We may admit that loss to be a quantity far too +small to be measured by any observations as yet obtainable, but, +nevertheless, it is productive of phenomena so important that it +cannot be overlooked. + +"It follows from these considerations that the rocks which form the +earth's crust over the surface of the continents and the islands, +or beneath the bed of the ocean, must have a lessening acreage year +by year. These rocks must therefore submit to compression, either +continuously or from time to time, and the necessary yielding of +the rocks will in general take place in those regions where the +materials of the earth's crust happen to have comparatively small +powers of resistance. The acts of compression will often, and +perhaps generally, not proceed with uniformity, but rather with +small successive shifts, and even though the displacements of the +rocks in these shifts be actually very small, yet the pressures to +which the rocks are subjected are so vast that a very small shift +may correspond to a very great terrestrial disturbance. + +"Suppose, for instance, that there is a slight shift in the rocks +on each side of a crack, or fault, at a depth of ten miles. It +must be remembered that the pressure ten miles down would be about +thirty-five tons to the square inch. Even a slight displacement of +one extensive surface over another, the sides being pressed +together with a force of thirty-five tons on the square inch, would +be an operation necessarily accompanied by violence greatly +exceeding that which we might expect from so small a displacement +if the forces concerned had been of more ordinary magnitude. On +account of this great multiplication of the intensity of the +phenomenon, merely a small rearrangement of the rocks in the crust +of the earth, in pursuance of the necessary work of accommodating +its volume to the perpetual shrinkage, might produce an excessively +violent shock, extending far and wide. The effect of such a shock +would be propagated in the form of waves through the globe, just as +a violent blow given at one end of a bar of iron by a hammer is +propagated through the bar in the form of waves. When the effect +of this internal adjustment reaches the earth's surface it will +sometimes be great enough to be perceptible in the shaking it gives +that surface. The shaking may be so violent that buildings may not +be able to withstand it. Such is the phenomenon of an earthquake. + +"When the earth is shaken by one of those occasional adjustments of +the crust which I have described, the wave that spreads like a +pulsation from the centre of agitation extends all over our globe +and is transmitted right through it. At the surface lying +immediately over the centre of disturbance there will be a violent +shock. In the surrounding country, and often over great distances, +the earthquake may also be powerful enough to produce destructive +effects. The convulsion may also be manifested over a far larger +area of country in a way which makes the shock to be felt, though +the damage wrought may not be appreciable. But beyond a limited +distance from the centre of the agitation the earthquake will +produce no destructive effects upon buildings, and will not even +cause vibrations that would be appreciable to ordinary observation. + + +THE RADIUS OF DISTURBANCE. + + +"In each locality in which earthquakes are chronic it would seem as +if there must be a particularly weak spot in the earth some miles +below the surface. A shrinkage of the earth, in the course of the +incessant adjustment between the interior and the exterior, will +take place by occasional little jumps at this particular centre. +The fact that there is this weak spot at which small adjustments +are possible may provide, as it were, a safety-valve for other +places in the same part of the world. Instead of a general +shrinking, the materials would be sufficiently elastic and flexible +to allow the shrinking for a very large area to be done at this +particular locality. In this way we may explain the fact that +immense tracts on the earth are practically free from earthquakes +of a serious character, while in the less fortunate regions the +earthquakes are more or less perennial. + +"Now, suppose an earthquake takes place in Japan, it originates a +series of vibrations through our globe. We must here distinguish +between the rocks--I might almost say the comparatively pliant +rocks--which form the earth's crust, and those which form the +intensely rigid core of the interior of our globe. The vibrations +which carry the tidings of the earthquake spread through the rocks +on the surface, from the centre of the disturbance, in gradually +enlarging circles. We may liken the spread of these vibrations to +the ripples in a pool of water which diverge from the spot where a +raindrop has fallen. The vibrations transmitted by the rocks on +the surface, or on the floor of the ocean, will carry the message +all over the earth. As these rocks are flexible, at all events by +comparison with the earth's interior, the vibrations will be +correspondingly large, and will travel with vigor over land and +under sea. In due time they reach, say the Isle of Wight, where +they set the pencil of the seismometer at work. But there are +different ways round the earth from Japan to the Isle of Wight, the +most direct route being across Asia and Europe; the other route +across the Pacific, America, and the Atlantic. The vibrations will +travel by both routes, and the former is the shorter of the two." + + +TRANSMISSIONS OF VIBRATIONS + + +Some brief repetition may not here be amiss as to the products of +volcanic action, of which so much has been said in the preceding +pages, especially as many of the terms are to some extent technical +in character. The most abundant of these substances is steam or +water-gas, which, as we have seen, issues in prodigious quantities +during every eruption. But with the steam a great number of other +volatile materials frequently make their appearance. Though we +have named a number of these at the beginning of this chapter, it +will not be out of order to repeat them here. The chief among +these are the acid gases known as hydrochloric acid, sulphurous +acid, sulphuretted hydrogen, carbonic acid, and boracic acid; and +with these acid gases there issue hydrogen, nitrogen ammonia, the +volatile metals arsenic, antimony, and mercury, and some other +substances. These volatile substances react upon one another, and +many new compounds are thus formed. By the action of sulphurous +acid and sulphuretted hydrogen on each other, the sulphur so common +in volcanic districts is separated and deposited. The hydrochloric +acid acts very energetically on the rocks around the vents, uniting +with the iron in them to form the yellow ferric-chloride, which +often coats the rocks round the vent and is usually mistaken by +casual observers for sulphur. + +Some of the substances emitted by volcanic vents, such as hydrogen +and sulphuretted hydrogen, are inflammable, and when they issue at +a high temperature these gases burst into flame the moment that +they come into contact with the air. Hence, when volcanic fissures +are watched at night, faint lambent flames are frequently seen +playing over them, and sometimes these flames are brilliantly +colored, through the presence of small quantities of certain +metallic oxides. Such volcanic flames, however, are scarcely ever +strongly luminous, and the red, glowing light which is observed +over volcanic mountains in eruption is due to quite another cause. +What is usually taken for flame during a volcanic eruption is +simply, as we have before stated, the glowing light of the surface +of a mass of red-hot lava reflected from the cloud of vapor and +dust in the air, much as the lights of a city are reflected from +the water vapor of the atmosphere during a night of fog. + +Besides the volatile substances which issue from volcanic vents, +mingling with the atmosphere or condensing upon their sides, there +are many solid materials ejected, and these may accumulate around +the orifice's till they build up mountains of vast dimensions, like +Etna, Teneriffe, and Chimborazo. Some of these solid materials are +evidently fragments of the rock-masses, through which the volcanic +fissure has been rent; these fragments have been carried upwards by +the force of the steam-blast and scattered over the sides of the +volcano. But the principal portion of the solid materials ejected +from volcanic orifices consists of matter which has been extruded +from sources far beneath the surface, in highly-heated and fluid or +semi-fluid condition. + +It is to these materials that the name of "lavas" is properly +applied. Lavas present a general resemblance to the slags and +clinkers which are formed in our furnaces and brick-kilns, and +consist, like them, of various stony substances which have been +more or less perfectly fused. When we come to study the chemical +composition and the microscopical structure of lavas, however, we +shall find that there are many respects in which they differ +entirely from these artificial products, they consisting chiefly of +felspar, or of this substance in association with augite or +hornblende. In texture they may be stony, glassy, resin-like, +vesicular or cellular and light in weight, as in the case of pumice +or scoria. + + +FLOATING PUMICE + + +The steam and other gases rising through liquid lava are apt to +produce bubbles, yielding a surface froth or foam. This froth +varies greatly in character according to the nature of the material +from which it is formed. In the majority of cases the lavas +consist of a mass of crystals floating in a liquid magma, and the +distension of such a mass by the escape of steam from its midst +gives rise to the formation of the rough cindery-looking material +to which the name of "scoria" is applied. But when the lava +contains no ready-formed crystals, but consists entirely of a +glassy substance in a more or less perfect state of fusion, the +liberation of steam gives rise to the formation of the beautiful +material known as "pumice." Pumice consists of a mass of minute +glass bubbles; these bubbles do not usually, however, retain their +globular form, but are elongated in one direction through the +movement of the mass while it is still in a plastic state. The +quantity of this substance ejected is often enormous. We have seen +to what a vast extent it was thrown out from the crater of +Krakatoa. During the year 1878, masses of floating pumice were +reported as existing in the vicinity of the Solomon Isles, and +covering the surface of the sea to such extent that it took ships +three days to force their way through them. Sometimes this +substance accumulates in such quantities along coasts that it is +difficult to determine the position of the shore within a mile or +two, as we may land and walk about on the great floating raft of +pumice. Recent deep-sea soundings, carried on in the Challenger +and other vessels, have shown that the bottom of the deepest +portion of the ocean, far away from the land, is covered with +volcanic materials which have been carried through the air or have +floated on the surface of the ocean. + +Fragments of scoria or pumice may be thrown hundreds or thousands +of feet into the atmosphere, those that fall into the crater and +are flung up again being gradually reduced in size by friction. +Thus it is related by Mr. Poulett Scrope, who watched the Vesuvian +eruption of 1822, which lasted for nearly a month, that during the +earlier stages of the outburst fragments of enormous size were +thrown out of the crater, but by constant re-ejection these were +gradually reduced in size, till at last only the most impalpable +dust issued from the vent. This dust filled the atmosphere, +producing in the city of Naples "a darkness that might be felt." +So excessively finely divided was it, that it penetrated into all +drawers, boxes, and the most closely fastened receptacles, filling +them completely. The fragmentary materials ejected from volcanoes +are often given the name of cinders or ashes. These, however, are +terms of convenience only, and do not properly describe the +volcanic material. + +Sometimes the passages of steam through a mass of molten glass +produces large quantities of a material resembling spun glass. +Small particles of this glass are carried into the air and leave +behind them thin, glassy filaments like a tail. At the volcano of +Kilauea in Hawaii, this substance, as previously stated, is +abundantly produced, and is known as 'Pele's Hair'--Pele being the +name of the goddess of the mountain. Birds' nests are sometimes +found composed of this beautiful material. In recent years an +artificial substance similar to this Pele's hair has been +extensively manufactured by passing jets of steam through the +molten slag of iron-furnaces; it resembles cotton-wool, but is made +up of fine threads of glass, and is employed for the packing of +boilers and other purposes. + +The lava itself, as left in huge deposits upon the surface, assumes +various forms, some crystalline, others glassy. The latter is +usually found in the condition known as obsidian, ordinarily black +in color, and containing few or no crystals. It is brittle, and +splits into sharp-edged or pointed fragments, which were used by +primitive peoples for arrow-heads, knives and other cutting +implements. The ancient Mexicans used bits of it for shaving +purposes, it having an edge of razor-like sharpness. They also +used it as the cutting part of their weapons of war. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +The Active Volcanoes of the Earth. + + +It is not by any means an easy task to frame an estimate of the +number of volcanoes in the world. Volcanoes vary greatly in their +dimensions, from vast mountain masses, rising to a height of nearly +25,000 feet above sea-level, to mere molehills. They likewise +exhibit every possible stage of development and decay: while some +are in a state of chronic active eruption, others are reduced to +the condition of solfataras, or vents emitting acid vapors, and +others again have fallen into a more or less complete state of ruin +through the action of denuding forces. + + +NUMBER OF ACTIVE VOLCANOES + + +Even if we confine our attention to the larger volcanoes, which +merit the name of mountains, and such of these as we have reason to +believe to be in a still active condition, our difficulties will be +diminished, but not by any means removed. Volcanoes may sink into +a dormant condition that at times endures for hundreds or even +thousands of years, and then burst forth into a state of renewed +activity; and it is quite impossible, in many cases, to distinguish +between the conditions of dormancy and extinction. + +We shall, however, probably be within the limits of truth in +stating that the number of great habitual volcanic vents upon the +globe which we have reason to believe are still in active +condition, is somewhere between 300 and 350. Most of these are +marked by more or less considerable mountains, composed of the +materials ejected from them. But if we include mountains which +exhibit the external conical form, crater-like hollows, and other +features of volcanoes, yet concerning the activity of which we have +no record or tradition, the number will fall little, if anything, +short of 1,000. + +The mountains composed of volcanic materials, but which have lost +through denudation the external form of volcanoes, are still more +numerous, and the smaller temporary openings which are usually +subordinate to the habitual vents that have been active during the +periods covered by history and tradition, must be numbered by +thousands. There are still feebler manifestations of the volcanic +forces--such as steam-jets, geysers, thermal and mineral waters, +spouting saline and muddy springs, and mud volcanoes--that may be +reckoned by millions. It is not improbable that these less +powerful manifestations of the volcanic forces to a great extent +make up in number what they want in individual energy; and the +relief which they afford to the imprisoned activities within the +earth's crust may be almost equal to that which results from the +occasional outbursts at the great habitual volcanic vents. + +In taking a general survey of the volcanic phenomena of the globe, +no facts come out more strikingly than that of the very unequal +distribution, both of the great volcanoes, and of the minor +exhibitions of subterranean energy. + +Thus, on the whole of the continent of Europe, there is but one +habitual volcanic vent--that of Vesuvius--and this is situated upon +the shores of the Mediterranean. In the islands of that sea, +however there are no less than six volcanoes: namely, Stromboli, +and Vulcano, in the Lipari Islands; Etna, in Sicily; Graham's Isle, +a submarine volcano, off the Sicilian coast; and Santorin and +Nisyros, in the Aegean Sea. + +The African continent is at present known to contain about ten +active volcanoes--four on the west coast, and six on the east +coast, while about ten other active volcanoes occur on islands +close to the African coasts. On the continent of Asia, more than +twenty active volcanoes are known or believed to exist, but no less +than twelve of these are situated in the peninsula of Kamchatka. +No volcanoes are known to exist in the Australian continent. + +The American continent contains a greater number of volcanoes than +the continents of the Old World. There are twenty in North +America, twenty-five in Central America, and thirty-seven in South +America. Thus, taken altogether, there are about one hundred and +seventeen volcanoes situated on the great continental lands of the +globe, while nearly twice as many occur upon the islands scattered +over the various oceans. + + +ASIATIC INLAND VOLCANOES + + +Upon examining further into the distribution of the continental +volcanoes, another very interesting fact presents itself. The +volcanoes are in almost every instance situated either close to the +coasts of the continent, or at no great distance from them. There +are, indeed, only two exceptions to this rule. In the great and +almost wholly unexplored table-land lying between Siberia and Tibet +four volcanoes are said to exist, and in the Chinese province of +Manchuria several others. More reliable information is, however, +needed concerning these volcanoes. + +It is a remarkable circumstance that all the oceanic islands which +are not coral-reefs are composed of volcanic rocks; and many of +these oceanic islands, as well as others lying near the shores of +the continents, contain active volcanoes. + +Through the midst of the Atlantic Ocean runs a ridge, which, by the +soundings of the various exploring vessels sent out in recent +years, has been shown to divide the ocean longitudinally into two +basins. Upon this great ridge, and the spurs proceeding from it, +rise numerous mountainous masses, which constitute the well-known +Atlantic islands and groups of islands. All of these are of +volcanic origin, and among them are numerous active volcanoes. The +Island of Jan Mayen contains an active volcano, and Iceland +contains thirteen, and not improbably more; the Azores have six +active volcanoes, the Canaries three; while about eight volcanoes +lie off the west coast of Africa. In the West Indies there are six +active volcanoes; and three submarine volcanoes have been recorded +within the limits of the Atlantic Ocean. Altogether, no less than +forty active volcanoes are situated upon the great submarine ridges +which traverse the Atlantic longitudinally. + +But along the same line the number of extinct volcanoes is far +greater, and there are not wanting proofs that the volcanoes which +are still active are approaching the condition of extinction. + + +VOLCANOES OF THE PACIFIC + + +If the great medial chain of the Atlantic presents us with an +example of a chain of volcanic mountains verging on extinction, we +have in the line of islands separating the Pacific and Indian +Oceans an example of a similar range of volcanic vents which are in +a condition of the greatest activity. In the peninsula of +Kamchatka there are twelve active volcanoes, in the Aleutian +Islands thirty-one, and in the peninsula of Alaska three. The +chain of the Kuriles contains at least ten active volcanoes; the +Japanese Islands and the islands to the south of Japan twenty-five. +The great group of islands lying to the south-east of the Asiatic +continent is at the present time the grandest focus of volcanic +activity upon the globe. No less than fifty active volcanoes occur +here. + +Farther south, the same chain is probably continued by the four +active volcanoes of New Guinea, one or more submarine volcanoes, +and several vents in New Britain, the Solomon Isles, and the New +Hebrides, the three active volcanoes of New Zealand, and possibly +by Mount Erebus and Mount Terror in the Antarctic region. +Altogether, no less than 150 active volcanoes exist in the chain of +islands which stretch from Behring's Straits down to the Antarctic +circle; and if we include the volcanoes on Indian and Pacific +Islands which appear to be situated on lines branching from this +particular band, we shall not be wrong in the assertion that this +great system of volcanic mountains includes at least one half of +the habitually active vents of the globe. In addition to the +active vents, there are here several hundred very perfect volcanic +cones, many of which appear to have recently become extinct, though +some of them may be merely dormant, biding their time. + +A third series of volcanoes starts from the neighborhood of +Behring's Straits, and stretches along the whole western coast of +the American continent. This is much less continuous, but +nevertheless very important, and contains, with its branches, +nearly a hundred active volcanoes. On the north this great band is +almost united with the one we have already described by the chain +of the Aleutian and Alaska volcanoes. In British Columbia about +the parallel of 60 degrees N. there exist a number of volcanic +mountains, one of which, Mount St. Elias, is believed to be 18,000 +feet in height. Farther south, in the territory of the United +States, a number of grand volcanic mountains exist, some of which +are probably still active, for geysers and other manifestations of +volcanic activity abound. From the southern extremity of the +peninsula of California an almost continuous chain of volcanoes +stretches through Mexico and Guatemala, and from this part of the +volcanic band a branch is given off which passes through the West +Indies, and contains the volcanoes which have so recently given +evidence of their vital activity. + +In South America the line is continued by the active volcanoes of +Ecuador, Bolivia and Chile, but at many intermediate points in the +chain of the Andes extinct volcanoes occur, which to a great extent +fill up the gaps in the series. A small offshoot to the westward +passes through the Galapagos Islands. The great band of volcanoes +which stretches through the American continent is second only in +importance, and in the activity of its vents, to the band which +divides the Pacific from the Indian Ocean. + +The third volcanic band of the globe is that, already spoken of, +which traverses the Atlantic Ocean from north to south. This +series of volcanic mountains is much more broken and interrupted +than the other two, and a greater proportion of its vents are +extinct. It attained its condition of maximum activity during the +distant period of the Miocene, and now appears to be passing into a +state of gradual extinction. + +Beginning in the north with the volcanic rocks of Greenland and +Bear Island, we pass southwards, by way of Jan Mayen, Iceland and +the Faroe Islands, to the Hebrides and the north of Ireland. +Thence, by way of the Azores, the Canaries and the Cape de Verde +Islands, with some active vents, we pass to the ruined volcanoes of +St. Paul, Fernando de Noronha, Ascension, St. Helena, Trinidad and +Tristan da Cunha. From this great Atlantic band two branches +proceed to the eastward, one through Central Europe, where all the +vents are now extinct, and the other through the Mediterranean to +Asia Minor, the great majority of the volcanoes along the latter +line being now extinct, though a few are still active. The +volcanoes on the eastern coast of Africa may be regarded as +situated on another branch from this Atlantic volcanic band. The +number of active volcanoes on this Atlantic band and its branches, +exclusive of those in the West Indies, does not exceed fifty. + + +THIAN SHAN AND HAWAIIAN VOLCANOES + + +From what has been said, it will be seen that the volcanoes of the +globe not only usually assume a linear arrangement, but nearly the +whole of them can be shown to be thrown up along three well-marked +bands and the branches proceeding from them. The first and most +important of these bands is nearly 10,000 miles in length, and with +its branches contains more than 150 active volcanoes; the second is +8,000 miles in length, and includes about 100 active volcanoes; the +third is much more broken and interrupted, extends to a length of +nearly 1,000 miles, and contains about 50 active vents. The +volcanoes of the eastern coast of Africa, with Mauritius, Bourbon, +Rodriguez, and the vents along the line of the Red Sea, may be +regarded as forming a fourth and subordinate band. + +Thus we see that the surface of the globe is covered by a network +of volcanic bands, all of which traverse it in sinuous lines with a +general north-and-south direction, giving off branches which often +run for hundreds of miles, and sometimes appear to form a +connection between the great bands. + +To this rule of the linear arrangement of the volcanic vents of the +globe, and their accumulation along certain well-marked bands, +there are two very striking exceptions, which we must now proceed +to notice. + +In the very centre of the continent formed by Europe and Asia, the +largest unbroken land-mass of the globe, there rises from the great +central plateau the remarkable volcanoes of the Thian Shan Range. +The existence of these volcanoes, of which only obscure traditional +accounts had reached Europe before the year 1858, appears to be +completely established by the researches of recent Russian and +Swedish travelers. Three volcanic vents appear to exist in this +region, and other volcanic phenomena have been stated to occur in +the great plateau of Central Asia, but the existence of the latter +appears to rest on very doubtful evidence. The only accounts which +we have of the eruptions of these Thian Shan volcanoes are +contained in Chinese histories and treatises on geography. + +The second exceptionally situated volcanic group is that of the +Hawaiian Islands. While the Thian Shan volcanoes rise in the +centre of the largest unbroken land-mass, and stand on the edge of +the loftiest and greatest plateau in the world, the volcanoes of +the Hawaiian Islands rise in the northern centre of the largest +ocean and from almost the greatest depths in that ocean. All round +the Hawaiian Islands the sea has a depth of from 2,000 to 3,000 +fathoms, and the island-group culminates in several volcanic cones, +which rise to the height of nearly 14,000 feet above the sea-level. +The volcanoes of the Hawaiian Islands are unsurpassed in height and +bulk by those of any other part of the globe. + +With the exception of the two isolated groups of the Thian Shan and +the Hawaiian Islands, nearly all the active volcanoes of the globe +are situated near the limits which separate the great land-and- +water-masses of the globe--that is to say, they occur either on the +parts of continents not far removed from their coast-lines, or on +islands in the ocean not very far distant from the shores. The +fact of the general proximity of volcanoes to the sea is one which +has frequently been pointed out by geographers, and may now be +regarded as being thoroughly established. + + +VOLCANOES PARALLEL TO MOUNTAIN CHAINS + + +Many of the grandest mountain-chains have bands of volcanoes lying +parallel to them. This is strikingly exhibited by the great +mountain-masses which lie on the western side of the American +continent. The Rocky Mountains and the Andes consist of folded and +crumpled masses of altered strata which, by the action of denuding +forces, have been carved into series of ridges and summits. At +many points, however, along the sides of these great chains we find +that fissures have been opened and lines of volcanoes formed, from +which enormous quantities of lava have flowed and covered great +tracts of country. + +This is especially marked in the Snake River plain of Idaho, in the +western United States. In this, and the adjoining regions of +Oregon and Washington, an enormous tract of country has been +overflowed by lava in a late geological period, the surface covered +being estimated to have a larger area than France and Great Britain +combined. The Snake River cuts through it in a series of +picturesque gorges and rapids, enabling us to estimate its +thickness, which is considered to average 4000 feet. Looked at +from any point on its surface, one of these lava-plains appears as +a vast level surface, like that of a lake bottom. This uniformity +has been produced either by the lava rolling over a plain or lake +bottom, or by the complete effacement of an original, undulating +contour of the ground under hundreds or thousands of feet of lava +in successive sheets. The lava, rolling up to the base of the +mountains, has followed the sinuosities of their margin, as the +waters of a lake follow its promontories and bays. Similar +conditions exist along the Sierra Nevada range of California, and +to some extent placer mining has gone on under immense beds of +lava, by a process of tunneling beneath the volcanic rock. + +In some localities the volcanoes are of such height and dimensions +as to overlook and dwarf the mountain-ranges by the side of which +they lie. Some of the volcanoes lying parallel to the great +American axis appear to be quite extinct, while others are in full +activity. In the Eastern continent we find still more striking +examples of parallelism between great mountain-chains and the lands +along which volcanic activity is exhibited--volcanoes, active or +extinct, following the line of the great east and west chains which +extend through southern Europe and Asia. There are some other +volcanic bands which exhibit a similar parallelism with mountain +chains; but, on the other hand, there are volcanoes between which +and the nearest mountain-axis no such connection can be traced. + + +AREAS OF UPHEAVAL AND SUBSIDENCE + + +There is one other fact concerning the mode of distribution of +volcanoes upon the surface of the globe, to which we must allude. +By a study of the evidences presented by coral-reefs, raised +beaches, submerged forests, and other phenomena of a similar kind, +it can be shown that certain wide areas of the land and of the +ocean-floor are at the present time in a state of subsidence, while +other equally large areas are being upheaved. And the observations +of the geologist prove that similar upward and downward movements +of portions of the earth's crust have been going on through all +geological times. + +Now, as Mr. Darwin has so well shown in his work on "Coral Reefs," +if we trace upon a map the areas of the earth's surface which are +undergoing upheaval and subsidence respectively, we shall find that +nearly all the active volcanoes of the globe are situated upon +rising areas and that volcanic phenomena are conspicuously absent +from those parts of the earth's crust which can be proved at the +present day to be undergoing depression. + +The remarkable linear arrangement of volcanic vents has a +significance that is well worthy of fuller consideration. There +are facts known which point to the cause of this state of affairs. +It is not uncommon for small cones of scoriae to be seen following +lines on the flanks or at the base of a great volcanic mountain. +These are undoubtedly lines of fissure, caused by the subterranean +forces. In fact, such fissures have been seen opening on the sides +of Mount Etna, in whose bottom could be seen the glowing lava. +Along these fissures, in a few days, scoriae cones appeared; on one +occasion no less than thirty-six in number. + +It is believed by geologists that the linear systems of volcanoes +are ranged along similar lines of fissure in the earth's crust-- +enormous breaks, extending for thousands of miles, and the result +of internal energies acting through vast periods of time. Along +these immense fissures in the earth's rock-crust there appear, in +place of small scoriae cones, great volcanoes, built up through the +ages by a series of powerful eruptions, and only ceasing to spout +fire themselves when the portion of the great crack upon which they +lie is closed. The greatest of these fissures is that along the +vast sinuous band of volcanoes extending from near the Arctic +circle at Behring's Straits to the Antarctic circle at South +Victoria Land, not far from half round the earth. It doubtless +marks the line of mighty forces which have been active for millions +of years. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +The Famous Vesuvius and the Destruction of Pompeii. + + +The famous volcano of southern Italy named Vesuvius, which is now +so constantly in eruption, was described by the ancients as a cone- +shaped mountain with a flat top, on which was a deep circular +valley filled with vines and grass, and surrounded by high +precipices. A large population lived on the sides of the mountain, +which was covered with beautiful woods, and there were fine +flourishing cities at its foot. So little was the terrible nature +of the valley on the top understood, that in A. D. 72, Spartacus, a +rebellious Roman gladiator, encamped there with some thousands of +fighting men, and the Roman soldiers were let down the precipices +in order to surprise and capture them. + +There had been earthquakes around the mountain, and one of the +cities had been nearly destroyed; but no one was prepared for what +occurred seven years after the defeat of Spartacus. Suddenly, in +the year 79 A. D., a terrific rush of smoke, steam, and fire +belched from the mountain's summit; one side of the valley in which +Spartacus had encamped was blown off, and its rocks, with vast +quantities of ashes, burning stones, and sand, were ejected far +into the sky. They then spread out like a vast pall, and fell far +and wide. For eight days and nights this went on, and the enormous +quantity of steam sent up, together with the deluge of rain that +fell, produced torrents on the mountain-side, which, carrying +onward the fallen ashes, overwhelmed everything in their way. +Sulphurous vapors filled the air and violent tremblings of the +earth were constant. + +A city six miles off was speedily rendered uninhabitable, and was +destroyed by the falling stones; but two others--Herculaneum and +Pompeii--which already had suffered from the down-pour of ashes, +were gradually filled with a flood of water, sand, and ashes, which +came down the side of the volcano, and covering them entirely. + + +BURIED CITIES EXCAVATED. + + +The difference in ease of excavation is due to the following +circumstance. Herculaneum being several miles nearer the crater, +was buried in a far more consistent substance, seemingly composed +of volcanic ashes cemented by mud; Pompeii, on the contrary, was +buried only in ashes and loose stones. The casts of statues found +in Herculaneum show the plastic character of the material that fell +there, which time has hardened to rock-like consistency. + +These statues represented Hercules and Cleopatra, and the theatre +proved to be that of the long-lost city of Herculaneum. The site +of Pompeii was not discovered until forty years afterward, but work +there proved far easier than at Herculaneum, and more progress was +made in bringing it back to the light of day. + +The less solid covering of Pompeii has greatly facilitated the work +of excavation, and a great part of the city has been laid bare. +Many of its public buildings and private residences are now +visible, and some whole streets have been cleared, while a +multitude of interesting relics have been found. Among those are +casts of many of the inhabitants, obtained by pouring liquid +plaster into the ash moulds that remained of them. We see them to- +day in the attitude and with the expression of agony and horror +with which death met them more than eighteen centuries ago. + +In succeeding eruptions much lava was poured out; and in A. D. 472, +ashes were cast over a great part of Europe, so that much fear was +caused at Constantinople. The buried cities were more and more +covered up, and it was not until about A. D. 1700 that, as above +stated, the city of Herculaneum was discovered, the peasants of the +vicinity being in the habit of extracting marble from its ruins. +They had also, in the course of years, found many statues. In +consequence, an excavation was ordered by Charles III, the earliest +result being the discovery of the theatre, with the statues above +named. The work of excavation, however, has not progressed far in +this city, on account of its extreme difficulty, though various +excellent specimens of art-work have been discovered, including the +finest examples of mural painting extant from antiquity. The +library was also discovered, 1803 papyri being found. Though these +had been charred to cinder, and were very difficult to unroll and +decipher, over 300 of them have been read. + + +PLINY'S CELEBRATED DESCRIPTION + + +Pliny the Younger, to whom we are indebted for the only +contemporary account of the great eruption under consideration, was +at the time of its occurrence resident with his mother at Misenum, +where the Roman fleet lay, under the command of his uncle, the +great author of the "Historia Naturalis". His account, contained +in two letters to Tacitus (lib. vi. 16, 20), is not so much a +narrative of the eruption, as a record of his uncle's singular +death, yet it is of great interest as yielding the impressions of +an observer. The translation which follows is adopted from the +very free version of Melmoth, except in one or two places, where it +differs much from the ordinary text. The letters are given entire, +though some parts are rather specimens of style than good examples +of description. + +"Your request that I should send an account of my uncle's death, in +order to transmit a more exact relation of it to posterity, +deserves my acknowledgments; for if this accident shall be +celebrated by your pen, the glory of it, I am assured, will be +rendered forever illustrious. And, notwithstanding he perished by +a misfortune which, as it involved at the same time a most +beautiful country in ruins, and destroyed so many populous cities, +seems to promise him an everlasting remembrance; notwithstanding he +has himself composed many and lasting works; yet I am persuaded the +mention of him in your immortal works will greatly contribute to +eternize his name. Happy I esteem those to be, whom Providence has +distinguished with the abilities either of doing such actions as +are worthy of being related, or of relating them in a manner worthy +of being read; but doubly happy are they who are blessed with both +these talents; in the number of which my uncle, as his own writings +and your history will prove, may justly be ranked. It is with +extreme willingness, therefore, that I execute your commands; and +should, indeed, have claimed the task if you had not enjoined it. + +"He was at that time with the fleet under his command at Misenum. +On the 24th of August, about one in the afternoon, my mother +desired him to observe a cloud which appeared of a very unusual +size and shape. He had just returned from taking the benefit of +the sun, and, after bathing himself in cold water, and taking a +slight repast, had retired to his study. He immediately arose, and +went out upon an eminence, from whence he might more distinctly +view this very uncommon appearance. It was not at that distance +discernible from what mountain the cloud issued, but it was found +afterward to ascend from Mount Vesuvius. I cannot give a more +exact description of its figure than by comparing it to that of a +pine tree, for it shot up to a great height in the form of a trunk, +which extended itself at the top into a sort of branches; +occasioned, I imagine, either by a sudden gust of air that impelled +it, the force of which decreased as it advanced upwards, or the +cloud itself being pressed back again by its own weight, and +expanding in this manner: it appeared sometimes bright, and +sometimes dark and spotted, as it was more or less impregnated with +earth and cinders. + +"This extraordinary phenomenon excited my uncle's philosophical +curiosity to take a nearer view of it. He ordered a light vessel +to be got ready, and gave me the liberty, if I thought proper, to +attend him. I rather chose to continue my studies, for, as it +happened, he had given me an employment of that kind. As he was +passing out of the house he received dispatches: the marines at +Retina, terrified at the imminent peril (for the place lay beneath +the mountain, and there was no retreat but by ships), entreated his +aid in this extremity. He accordingly changed his first design, +and what he began with a philosophical he pursued with an heroical +turn of mind. + + +THE VOYAGE TO STABIAE + + +"He ordered the galleys to put to sea, and went himself on board +with an intention of assisting not only Retina but many other +places, for the population is thick on that beautiful coast. When +hastening to the place from whence others fled with the utmost +terror, he steered a direct course to the point of danger, and with +so much calmness and presence of mind, as to be able to make and +dictate his observations upon the motion and figure of that +dreadful scene. He was now so nigh the mountain that the cinders, +which grew thicker and hotter the nearer he approached, fell into +the ships, together with pumice-stones, and black pieces of burning +rock; they were in danger of not only being left aground by the +sudden retreat of the sea, but also from the vast fragments which +rolled down from the mountain, and obstructed all the shore. + +"Here he stopped to consider whether he should return back again; +to which the pilot advised him. 'Fortune,' said he, 'favors the +brave; carry me to Pomponianus.' Pomponianus was then at Stabiae, +separated by a gulf, which the sea, after several insensible +windings, forms upon the shore. He (Pomponianus) had already sent +his baggage on board; for though he was not at that time in actual +danger, yet being within view of it, and indeed extremely near, if +it should in the least increase, he was determined to put to sea as +soon as the wind should change. It was favorable, however, for +carrying my uncle to Pomponianus, whom he found in the greatest +consternation. He embraced him with tenderness, encouraging and +exhorting him to keep up his spirits; and the more to dissipate his +fears he ordered, with an air of unconcern, the baths to be got +ready; when, after having bathed, he sat down to supper with great +cheerfulness, or at least (what is equally heroic) with all the +appearance of it. + +"In the meantime, the eruption from Mount Vesuvius flamed out in +several places with much violence, which the darkness of the night +contributed to render still more visible and dreadful. But my +uncle, in order to soothe the apprehensions of his friend, assured +him it was only the burning of the villages, which the country +people had abandoned to the flames; after this he retired to rest, +and it was most certain he was so little discomposed as to fall +into a deep sleep; for, being pretty fat, and breathing hard, those +who attended without actually heard him snore. The court which led +to his apartment being now almost filled with stones and ashes, if +he had continued there any longer it would have been impossible for +him to have made his way out; it was thought proper, therefore, to +awaken him. He got up and went to Pomponianus and the rest of his +company, who were not unconcerned enough to think of going to bed. +They consulted together whether it would be most prudent to trust +to the houses, which now shook from side to side with frequent and +violent concussions; or to fly to the open fields, where the +calcined stone and cinders, though light indeed, yet fell in large +showers and threatened destruction. In this distress they resolved +for the fields as the less dangerous situation of the two--a +resolution which, while the rest of the company were hurried into +it by their fears, my uncle embraced upon cool and deliberate +consideration. + + +DEATH OF PLINY THE ELDER + + +"They went out, then, having pillows tied upon their heads with +napkins; and this was their whole defence against the storm of +stones that fell around them. It was now day everywhere else, but +there a deeper darkness prevailed than in the most obscure night; +which, however, was in some degree dissipated by torches and other +lights of various kinds. They thought proper to go down further +upon the shore, to observe if they might safely put out to sea; but +they found that the waves still ran extremely high and boisterous. +There my uncle, having drunk a draught or two of cold water, threw +himself down upon a cloth which was spread for him, when +immediately the flames, and a strong smell of sulphur which was the +forerunner of them, dispersed the rest of the company, and obliged +him to rise. He raised himself up with the assistance of two of +his servants, and instantly fell down dead, suffocated, as I +conjecture, by some gross and noxious vapor, having always had weak +lungs, and being frequently subject to a difficulty of breathing. + +"As soon as it was light again, which was not till the third day +after this melancholy accident, his body was found entire, and +without any marks of violence upon it, exactly in the same posture +as that in which he fell, and looking more like a man asleep than +dead. During all this time my mother and I were at Misenum. But +this has no connection with your history, as your inquiry went no +farther than concerning my uncle's death; with that, therefore, I +will put an end to my letter. Suffer me only to add, that I have +faithfully related to you what I was either an eye-witness of +myself, or received immediately after the accident happened, and +before there was any time to vary the truth. You will choose out +of this narrative such circumstances as shall be most suitable to +your purpose; for there is a great difference between what is +proper for a letter and a history: between writing to a friend and +writing to the public. Farewell." + +In this account, which was drawn up some years after the event, +from the recollections of a student eighteen years old, we +recognize the continual earthquakes; the agitated sea with its +uplifted bed; the flames and vapors of an ordinary eruption, +probably attended by lava as well as ashes. But it seems likely +that the author's memory, or rather the information communicated to +him regarding the closing scene of Pliny's life, was defective. +Flames and sulphurous vapors could hardly be actually present at +Stabiae, ten miles from the centre of the eruption. + +That lava flowed at all from Vesuvius on this occasion has been +usually denied; chiefly because at Pompeii and Herculaneum the +causes of destruction were different--ashes overwhelmed the former, +mud concreted over the latter. We observe, indeed, phenomena on +the shore near Torre del Greco which seem to require the belief +that currents of lava had been solidified there at some period +before the construction of certain walls and floors, and other +works of Roman date. In the Oxford Museum, among the specimens of +lava to which the dates are assigned, is one referred to A. D. 79, +but there is no mode of proving it to have belonged to the eruption +of that date. + + +PLINY'S SECOND LETTER + + +A second letter from Pliny to Tacitus (Epist. 20) was required to +satisfy the curiosity of that historian; especially as regards the +events which happened under the eyes of his friend. Here it is +according to Melmoth: + +"The letter which, in compliance with your request, I wrote to you +concerning the death of my uncle, has raised, it seems, your +curiosity to know what terrors and danger attended me while I +continued at Misenum: for there, I think, the account in my former +letter broke off. + +'Though my shocked soul recoils, my tongue shall tell.' + +"My uncle having left us, I pursued the studies which prevented my +going with him till it was time to bathe. After which I went to +supper, and from thence to bed, where my sleep was greatly broken +and disturbed. There had been, for many days before, some shocks +of an earthquake, which the less surprised us as they are extremely +frequent in Campania; but they were so particularly violent that +night, that they not only shook everything about us, but seemed, +indeed, to threaten total destruction. My mother flew to my +chamber, where she found me rising in order to awaken her. We went +out into a small court belonging to the house, which separated the +sea from the buildings. As I was at that time but eighteen years +of age, I know not whether I should call my behavior, in this +dangerous juncture, courage or rashness; but I took up Livy, and +amused myself with turning over that author, and even making +extracts from him, as if all about me had been in full security. +While we were in this posture, a friend of my uncle's, who was just +come from Spain to pay him a visit, joined us; and observing me +sitting with my mother with a book in my hand, greatly condemned +her calmness at the same time that he reproved me for my careless +security. Nevertheless, I still went on with my author. + +"Though it was now morning, the light was exceedingly faint and +languid; the buildings all around us tottered; and, though we stood +upon open ground, yet as the place was narrow and confined, there +was no remaining there without certain and great danger: we +therefore resolved to quit the town. The people followed us in the +utmost consternation, and, as to a mind distracted with terror +every suggestion seems more prudent than its own, pressed in great +crowds about us in our way out. + +"Being got to a convenient distance from the houses, we stood +still, in the midst of a most dangerous and dreadful scene. The +chariots which we had ordered to be drawn out were so agitated +backwards and forwards, though upon the most level ground, that we +could not keep them steady, even by supporting them with large +stones. The sea seemed to roll back upon itself, and to be driven +from its banks by the convulsive motion of the earth; it is certain +at least that the shore was considerably enlarged, and many sea +animals were left upon it. On the other side a black and dreadful +cloud, bursting with an igneous serpentine vapor, darted out a long +train of fire, resembling flashes of lightning, but much larger. + + +FEAR VERSUS COMPOSURE + + +"Upon this the Spanish friend whom I have mentioned, addressed +himself to my mother and me with great warmth and earnestness; 'If +your brother and your uncle,' said he, 'is safe, he certainly +wishes you to be so too; but if he has perished, it was his desire, +no doubt, that you might both survive him: why therefore do you +delay your escape a moment?' We could never think of our own +safety, we said, while we were uncertain of his. Hereupon our +friend left us, and withdrew with the utmost precipitation. Soon +afterward, the cloud seemed to descend, and cover the whole ocean; +as it certainly did the island of Capreae, and the promontory of +Misenum. My mother strongly conjured me to make my escape at any +rate, which, as I was young, I might easily do; as for herself, she +said, her age and corpulency rendered all attempts of that sort +impossible. However, she would willingly meet death, if she could +have the satisfaction of seeing that she was not the occasion of +mine. But I absolutely refused to leave her, and taking her by the +hand, I led her on; she complied with great reluctance, and not +without many reproaches to herself for retarding my flight. + +"The ashes now began to fall upon us, though in no great quantity. +I turned my head and observed behind us a thick smoke, which came +rolling after us like a torrent. I proposed, while we yet had any +light, to turn out of the high road lest she should be pressed to +death in the dark by the crowd that followed us. We had scarce +stepped out of the path when darkness overspread us, not like that +of a cloudy night, or when there is no moon, but of a room when it +is all shut up and all the lights are extinct. Nothing then was to +be heard but the shrieks of women, the screams of children and the +cries of men; some calling for their children, others for their +parents, others for their husbands, and only distinguishing each +other by their voices; one lamenting his own fate, another that of +his family; some wishing to die from the very fear of dying; some +lifting their hands to the gods; but the greater part imagining +that the last and eternal night was come, which was to destroy the +gods and the world together. Among them were some who augmented +the real terrors by imaginary ones, and made the frighted multitude +believe that Misenum was actually in flames. + +"At length a glimmering light appeared, which we imagined to be +rather the forerunner of an approaching burst of flames, as in +truth it was, than the return of day. However, the fire fell at +distance from us; then again we were immersed in thick darkness, +and a heavy shower of ashes rained upon us, which we were obliged +every now and then to shake off, otherwise we should have been +crushed and buried in the heap. + +"I might boast that, during all this scene of horror, not a sigh or +expression of fear escaped me, had not my support been founded in +that miserable, though strong, consolation that all mankind were +involved in the same calamity, and that I imagined I was perishing +with the world itself! At last this dreadful darkness was +dissipated by degrees, like a cloud of smoke; the real day +returned, and soon the sun appeared, though very faintly, and as +when an eclipse is coming on. Every object that presented itself +to our eyes (which were extremely weakened) seemed changed, being +covered over with white ashes, as with a deep snow. We returned to +Misenum, where we refreshed ourselves as well as we could, and +passed an anxious night between hope and fear, for the earthquake +still continued, while several greatly excited people ran up and +down, heightening their own and their friends' calamities by +terrible predictions. However, my mother and I, notwithstanding +the danger we had passed and that which still threatened us, had no +thoughts of leaving the place till we should receive some account +from my uncle. + +"And now you will read this narrative without any view of inserting +it in your history, of which it is by no means worthy; and, indeed, +you must impute it to your own request if it shall not even deserve +the trouble of a letter. Farewell!" + + +DION CASSIUS ON THE ERUPTION + + +The story told by Pliny is the only one upon which we can rely. +Dion Cassius, the historian, who wrote more than a century later, +does not hesitate to use his imagination, telling us that Pompeii +was buried under showers of ashes "while all the people were +sitting in the theatre." This statement has been effectively made +use of by Bulwer, in his "Last Days of Pompeii." In this he +pictures for us a gladiatorial combat in the arena, with thousands +of deeply interested spectators occupying the surrounding seats. +The novelist works his story up to a thrilling climax in which the +volcano plays a leading part. + +This is all very well as a vivid piece of fiction, but it does not +accord with fact, since Dion Cassius was undoubtedly incorrect in +his statement. We now know from the evidence furnished by the +excavations that none of the people were destroyed in the theatres, +and, indeed, that there were very few who did not escape from both +cities. It is very likely that many of them returned and dug down +for the most valued treasures in their buried habitations. Dion +Cassius may have obtained the material for his accounts from the +traditions of the descendants of survivors, and if so he shows how +terrible must have been the impression made upon their minds. He +assures us that during the eruption a multitude of men of +superhuman nature appeared, sometimes on the mountain and sometimes +in the environs, that stones and smoke were thrown out, the sun was +hidden, and then the giants seemed to rise again, while the sounds +of trumpets were heard. + + +LAKE AVERNUS + + +Not far from Vesuvius lay the famous Lake Avernus, whose name was +long a popular synonym for the infernal regions. The lake is +harmless to-day, but its reputation indicates that it was not +always so. There is every reason to believe that it hides the +outlet of an extinct volcano, and that long after the volcano +ceased to be active it emitted gases as fatal to animal life as +those suffocating vapors which annihilated all the cattle on the +Island of Lancerote, in the Canaries, in the year 1730. Its name +signifies "birdless," indicating that its ascending vapors were +fatal to all birds that attempted to fly above its surface. + +In the superstition of the Middle Ages Vesuvius assumed the +character which had before been given to Avernus, and was regarded +as the mouth of hell. Cardinal Damiano, in a letter to Pope +Nicholas II., written about the year 1060 tells the story of how a +priest, who had left his mother ill at Beneventum, went on his +homeward way to Naples past the crater of Vesuvius, and heard +issuing therefrom the voice of his mother in great agony. He +afterward found that her death coincided exactly with the time at +which he had heard her voice. + +A trip to the summit of Vesuvius is one of the principal +attractions for strangers who are visiting Naples. There is a +fascination about that awful slayer of cities which few can resist, +and no less attractive is the city of Pompeii, now largely laid +bare after being buried for eighteen centuries. We are indebted to +Henry Haynie for the following interesting description: "Once seen, +it will never be forgotten. It is full of suggestions. It kindles +emotions that are worth the kindling, and brings on dreams that are +worth the dreaming. Of the three places overwhelmed, Herculaneum, +Pompeii and Stabiae, the last scarcely repays excavation in one +sense, and the first in another; but to watch the diggers at +Pompeii is fascinating, even when there is no reasonable +expectation of a find. Herculaneum was buried with lava, or rather +with tufa, and it is so very hard that the expense of uncovering of +only a small part of that city has been very great. + + +HOW POMPEII IMPRESSES ITS VISITORS + + +"Pompeii was smothered in ashes, however, and most of it is +uncovered now. But while there is much that is fascinating, and +all of it is instructive, there is nothing grand or awe-inspiring +in the ruins of Pompeii. No visitor stands breathless as in the +great hall of Karnak or in the once dreadful Coliseum at Rome, or +dreams with sensuous delight as before the Jasmine Court at Agra. + +"The weirdness of the scene possesses us as a haunted chamber +might. We have before us the narrow lanes, paved with tufa, in +which Roman wagon wheels have worn deep ruts. We cross streets on +stepping-stones which sandaled feet ages ago polished. We see the +wine shops with empty jars, counters stained with liquor, stone +mills where the wheat was ground, and the very ovens in which bread +was baked more than eighteen centuries ago. 'Welcome' is offered +us at one silent, broken doorway; at another we are warned to +'Beware of the dog!' The painted figures,--some of them so +artistic and rich in colors that pictures of them are disbelieved,-- +the mosaic pavements, the empty fountains, the altars and +household gods, the marble pillars and the small gardens are there +just as the owners left them. Some of the walls are scribbled over +by the small boys of Pompeii in strange characters which mock +modern erudition. In places we read the advertisements of +gladiatorial shows, never to come off, the names of candidates for +legislative office who were never to sit. There is nothing like +this elsewhere. + +"The value of Pompeii to those classic students who would +understand, not the speech only, but the life and the every-day +habits, of the ancient world, is too high for reckoning. Its +inestimable evidence may be seen in the fact that any high-school +boy can draw the plan of a Roman house, while ripest scholars +hesitate on the very threshold of a Greek dwelling. This is +because no Hellenic Pompeii has yet been discovered, but thanks to +the silent city close to the beautiful Bay of Naples, the Latin +house is known from ostium to porticus, from the front door to the +back garden wall. + + +STREETS AND HOUSES OF POMPEII + + +"The streets of Pompeii must have had a charm unapproached by those +of any city now in existence. The stores, indeed, were wretched +little dens. Two or three of them commonly occupied the front of a +house on either side of the entrance, the ostium; but when the door +lay open, as was usually the case, a passerby could look into the +atrium, prettily decorated and hung with rich stuffs. The sunshine +entered through an aperture in the roof, and shone on the waters of +the impluvium, the mosaic floor, the altar of the household gods +and the flowers around the fountain. + +"As the life of the Pompeiians was all outdoors, their pretty homes +stood open always. There was indeed a curtain betwixt the atrium +and the peristyle, but it was drawn only when the master gave a +banquet. Thus a wayfarer in the street could see, beyond the hall +described and its busy servants, the white columns of the +peristyle, with creepers trained about them, flowers all around, +and jets of water playing through pipes which are still in place. +In many cases the garden itself could be observed between the +pillars of the further gallery, and rich paintings on the wall +beyond that. + +"But how far removed those little palaces of Pompeii were from our +notion of well-being is scarcely to be understood by one who has +not seen them. It is a question strange in all points of view +where the family slept in the houses, nearly all of which had no +second story. In the most graceful villas the three to five +sleeping chambers round the atrium and four round the peristyle +were rather ornamental cupboards than aught else. One did not +differ from another, and if these were devoted to the household the +slaves, male and female, must have slept on the floor outside. The +master, his family and his guest used these small, dark rooms, +which were apparently without such common luxuries as we expect in +the humblest home. All their furniture could hardly have been more +than a bed and a footstool; but it should be remembered that the +public bath was a daily amusement. The kitchen of each villa +certainly was not furnished with such ingenuity, expense or thought +as the stories of Roman gormandising would have led us to expect. +In the house of the Aedile--so called from the fact that 'Pansam +Aed.' is inscribed in red characters by the doorway--the cook seems +to have been employed in frying eggs at the moment when increasing +danger put him to flight. His range, four partitions of brick, was +very small; a knife, a strainer, a pan lay by the fire just as they +fell from the slave's hand." + + +VALUE OF THE DISCOVERY OF POMPEII + + +This description strongly presents to us the principal value of the +discovery of Pompeii. Interesting as are the numerous works of art +found in its habitations, and important as is their bearing upon +some branches of the art of the ancient world, this cannot compare +in interest with the flood of light which is here thrown on ancient +life in all its details, enabling us to picture to ourselves the +manners and habits of life of a cultivated and flourishing +population at the beginning of the Christian era, to an extent +which no amount of study of ancient history could yield. + +Looking upon the work of the volcano as essentially destructive, as +we naturally do, we have here a valuable example of its power as a +preservative agent; and it is certainly singular that it is to a +volcano we owe much of what we know concerning the cities, +dwellings and domestic life of the people of the Roman Empire. + +It would be very fortunate for students of antiquity if similar +disasters had happened to cities in other ancient civilized lands, +however unfortunate it might have been to their inhabitants. But +doubtless we are better off without knowledge gained from ruins +thus produced. + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +Eruptions of Vesuvius, Etna and Stromboli. + + +Mount Vesuvius is of especial interest as being the only active +volcano on the continent of Europe--all others of that region being +on the islands of the Mediterranean--and for the famous ancient +eruption described in the last chapter. Before this it had borne +the reputation of being extinct, but since then it has frequently +shown that its fires have not burned out, and has on several +occasions given a vigorous display of its powers. + +During the fifteen hundred years succeeding the destructive event +described eruptions were of occasional occurrence, though of no +great magnitude. But throughout the long intervals when Vesuvius +was at rest it was noted that Etna and Ischia were more or less +disturbed. + + +THE BIRTH OF MONTE NUOVO + + +In 1538 a startling evidence was given that there was no decline of +energy in the volcanic system of Southern Italy. This was the +sudden birth of the mountain still known as Monte Nuovo, or New +Mountain, which was thrown up in the Campania near Avernus, on the +spot formerly occupied by the Lucrine Lake. + +For about two years prior to this event the district had been +disturbed by earthquakes, which on September 27 and 28, 1538, +became almost continuous. The low shore was slightly elevated, so +that the sea retreated, leaving bare a strip about two hundred feet +in width. The surface cracked, steam escaped, and at last, early +on the morning of the 29th, a greater rent was made, from which +were vomited furiously "smoke, fire, stones and mud composed of +ashes, making at the time of its opening a noise like the loudest +thunder." + +The ejected material in less than twelve hours built the hill which +has lasted substantially in the same form to our day. It is a +noteworthy fact that since the formation of Monte Nuovo there has +been no volcanic disturbance in any part of the Neapolitan district +except in Vesuvius, which for five centuries previous had remained +largely at rest. + + +LAVA FROM VESUVIUS + + +The first recognised appearance of lava in the eruptions of +Vesuvius was in the violent eruption of 1036. This was succeeded +at intervals by five other outbreaks, none of them of great energy. +After 1500 the crater became completely quiet, the whole mountain +in time being grown over with luxuriant vegetation, while by the +next century the interior of the crater became green with +shrubbery, indicating that no injurious gases were escaping. + +This was sleep, not death. In 1631 the awakening came in an +eruption of terrible violence. Almost in a moment the green mantle +of woodland and shrubbery was torn away and death and destruction +left where peace and safety had seemed assured. + +Seven streams of lava poured from the crater and swept rapidly down +the mountain side, leaving ruin along their paths. Resina, +Granasello and Torre del Greco, three villages that had grown up +during the period of quiescence, were more or less overwhelmed by +the molten lava. Great torrents of hot water also poured out, +adding to the work of desolation. It was estimated that eighteen +thousand of the inhabitants were killed. + +What made the horror all the greater was a frightful error of +judgment, similar to that of the Governor of Martinique at St. +Pierre. The Governor of Torre del Greco had refused to be warned +in time, and prevented the people from making their escape until it +was too late. Not until the lava had actually reached the walls +was the order for departure given. Before the order could be acted +upon the molten streams burst through the walls into the crowded +streets, and overwhelmed the vast majority of the inhabitants. + +In this violent paroxysm the whole top of the mountain is said to +have been swept away, the new crater which took the place of the +old one being greatly lowered. From that date Vesuvius has never +been at rest for any long interval, and eruptions of some degree of +violence have been rarely more than a few years apart. Of its +various later manifestations of energy we select for description +that of 1767, of which an interesting account by a careful observer +is extant. + + +GREAT ERUPTION OF 1767 + + +From the 10th of December, 1766, to March, 1767, Vesuvius was +quiet; then it began to throw up stones from time to time. In +April the throws were more frequent, and at night the red glare +grew stronger on the cloudy columns which hung over the crater. +These repeated throws of cinders, ashes and pumice-stones so much +increased the small cone of eruption which had been left in the +centre of the flat crateral space that its top became visible at a +distance. + +On the 7th of August there issued a small stream of lava from a +breach in the side of a small cone; the lava gradually filled the +space between the cone and the crateral edge; on the 12th of +September it overflowed the crater, and ran down the mountain. +Stones were ejected which took ten seconds in their fall, from +which it may be computed that the height which the stones reached +was 1,600 feet. Padre Torre, a great observer of Vesuvius, says +they went up above a thousand feet. The lava ceased on the 18th of +October, but at 8 A. M. on the 19th it rushed out at a different +place, after volleys of stones had been thrown to an immense +height, and the huge traditional pine-tree of smoke reappeared. On +this occasion that vast phantom extended its menacing shadow over +Capri, at a distance of twenty-eight miles from Vesuvius. + +The lava at first came out of a mouth about one hundred yards below +the crater, on the side toward Monte Somma. While occupied in +viewing this current, the observer heard a violent noise within the +mountain; saw it split open at the distance of a quarter of a mile, +and saw from the new mouth a mountain of liquid fire shoot up many +feet, and then, like a torrent, roll on toward him. The earth +shook; stones fell thick around him; dense clouds of ashes darkened +the air; loud thunders came from the mountain top, and he took to +precipitate flight. The Padre's account is too lively and +instructive for his own words to be omitted. + + +PADRE TORRE'S NARRATIVE + + +"I was making my observations upon the lava, which had already, +from the spot where it first broke out, reached the valley, when, +on a sudden, about noon, I heard a violent noise within the +mountain, and at a spot about a quarter of a mile off the place +where I stood the mountain split; and with much noise, from this +new mouth, a fountain of liquid fire shot up many feet high, and +then like a torrent rolled on directly towards us. The earth shook +at the same time that a volley of stones fell thick upon us; in an +instant clouds of black smoke and ashes caused almost a total +darkness; the explosions from the top of the mountain were much +louder than any thunder I ever heard, and the smell of the sulphur +was very offensive. My guide, alarmed, took to his heels; and I +must confess that I was not at my ease. I followed close, and we +ran near three miles without stopping; as the earth continued to +shake under our feet, I was apprehensive of the opening of a fresh +mouth which might have cut off our retreat. + +"I also feared that the violent explosions would detach some of the +rocks off the mountain of Somma, under which we were obliged to +pass; besides, the pumice-stones, falling upon us like hail, were +of such a size as to cause a disagreeable sensation in the part +upon which they fell. After having taken breath, as the earth +trembled greatly I thought it most prudent to leave the mountain +and return to my villa, where I found my family in great alarm at +the continual and violent explosions of the volcano, which shook +our house to its very foundation, the doors and windows swinging +upon their hinges. + +"About two of the clock in the afternoon (19th) another lava stream +forced its way out of the same place from whence came the lava of +last year, so that the conflagration was soon as great on this side +of the mountain as on the other which I had just left. I observed +on my way to Naples, which was in less than two hours after I had +left the mountain, that the lava had actually covered three miles +of the very road through which we had retreated. This river of +lava in the Atrio del Cavallo was sixty or seventy feet deep, and +in some places nearly two miles broad. Besides the explosions, +which were frequent, there was a continued subterranean and violent +rumbling noise, which lasted five hours in the night,--supposed to +arise from contact of the lava with rain-water lodged in cavities +within. The whole neighborhood was shaken violently; Portici and +Naples were in the extremity of alarm; the churches were filled; +the streets were thronged with processions of saints, and various +ceremonies were performed to quell the fury of the mountain. + +"In the night of the 20th, the occasion being critical, the +prisoners in the public jail attempted to escape, and the mob set +fire to the gates of the residence of the Cardinal Archbishop +because he refused to bring out the relics of St. Januarius. The +21st was a quieter day, but the whole violence of the eruption +returned on the 22d, at 10 A. M., with the same thundering noise, +but more violent and alarming. Ashes fell in abundance in the +streets of Naples, covering the housetops and balconies an inch +deep. Ships at sea, twenty leagues from Naples, were covered with +them. + +"In the midst of these horrors, the mob, growing tumultuous and +impatient, obliged the Cardinal to bring out the head of St. +Januarius, at the extremity of Naples, toward Vesuvius; and it is +well attested here that the eruption ceased the moment the saint +came in sight of the mountain. It is true the noise ceased about +that time after having lasted five hours, as it had done the +preceding days. + +"On the 23d the lava still ran, but on the 24th it ceased; but +smoke continued. On the 25th there rose a vast column of black +smoke, giving out much forked lightning with thunder, in a sky +quite clear except for the smoke of the volcano. On the 26th smoke +continued, but on the 27th the eruption came to an end." + +This eruption was also described by Sir William Hamilton, who +continued to keep a close watch on the movements of the volcano for +many years. The next outbreak of especial violence took place in +1779, when what seemed to the eye a column of fire ascended two +miles high, while cinder fragments fell far and wide, destroying +the hopes of harvest throughout a wide district. They fell in +abundance thirty miles distant, and the dust of the explosion was +carried a hundred miles away. + +In 1793 the crater became active again, and in 1794 after a period +of short tranquillity or comparative inaction, the mountain again +became agitated, and one of the most formidable eruptions known in +the history of Vesuvius began. It was in some respects unlike many +others, being somewhat peculiar as to the place of its outburst, +the temperature of the lava, and the course of the current. +Breislak, an Italian geologist, observed the characteristic +phenomena with the eye of science, and his account supplies many +interesting facts. + + +BREISLAK ON THE ERUPTION OF 1794 + + +Breislak remarked certain changes in the character of the earth's +motions during this six hours' eruption, which led him to some +particular conjecture of the cause. At the beginning the trembling +was continual, and accompanied by a hollow noise, similar to that +occasioned by a river falling into a subterranean cavern. The +lava, at the time of its being disgorged, from the impetuous and +uninterrupted manner in which it was ejected, causing it to strike +violently against the walls of the vent, occasioned a continual +oscillation of the mountain. Toward the middle of the night this +vibratory motion ceased, and was succeeded by distant shocks. The +fluid mass, diminished in quantity, now pressed less violently +against the walls of the aperture, and no longer issued in a +continual and gushing stream, but only at intervals, when the +interior fermentation elevated the boiling matter above the mouth. +About 4 A. M. the shocks began to be less numerous, and the +intervals between them rendered their force and duration more +perceptible. + +During this tremendous eruption at the base of the Vesuvian cone, +and the fearful earthquakes which accompanied it, the summit was +tranquil. The sky was serene, the stars were brilliant, and only +over Vesuvius hung a thick, dark smoke-cloud, lighted up into an +auroral arch by the glare of a stream of fire more than two miles +long, and more than a quarter of a mile broad. The sea was calm, +and reflected the red glare; while from the source of the lava came +continual jets of uprushing incandescent stones. Nearer to view, +Torre del Greco in flames, and clouds of black smoke, with falling +houses, presented a dark and tragical foreground, heightened by the +subterranean thunder of the mountain, and the groans and +lamentations of fifteen thousand ruined men, women and children. + +The heavy clouds of ashes which were thrown out on this occasion +gathered in the early morning into a mighty shadow over Naples and +the neighborhood; the sun rose pale and obscure, and a long, dim +twilight reigned afterward. + +Such were the phenomena on the western side of Vesuvius. They were +matched by others on the eastern aspect, not visible at Naples, +except by reflection of their light in the atmosphere. The lava on +this side flowed eastward, along a route often traversed by lava, +by the broken crest of the Cognolo and the valley of Sorienta. The +extreme length to which this current reached was not less than an +Italian mile. The cubic content was estimated to be half that +already assigned to the western currents. Taken together they +amounted to 20,744,445 cubic metres, or 2,804,440 cubic fathoms; +the constitution of the lava being the same in each, both springing +from one deep-seated reservoir of fluid rock. + +The eruption of lava ceased on the 16th, and then followed heavy +discharges of ashes, violent shocks of earthquakes, thunder and +lightning in the columns of vapors and ashes, and finally heavy +rains, lasting till the 3d of July. The barometer during all the +eruption was steady. + +Breislak made an approximate calculation of the quantity of ashes +which fell on Vesuvius during this great eruption, and states the +result as equal to what would cover a circular area 6 kilometres +(about 3 1/2 English miles) in radius, and 39 centimetres (about 15 +inches) in depth. + + +STRANGE EFFECTS + + +Among the notable things which attended this eruption, it is +recorded that in Torre del Greco metallic and other substances +exposed to the current were variously affected. Silver was melted, +glass became porcelain, iron swelled to four times its volume and +lost its texture. Brass was decomposed, and its constituent copper +crystallized in cubic and octahedral forms aggregated in beautiful +branches. Zinc was sometimes turned to blende. During the +eruption, the lip of the crater toward Bosco Tre Case on the south +east, fell in, or was thrown off, and the height of that part was +reduced 426 feet. + +On the 17th, the sea was found in a boiling state 100 yards off the +new promontory made by the lava of Torre del Greco, and no boat +could remain near it on account of the melting of the pitch in her +bottom. For nearly a month after the eruption vast quantities of +fine white ashes, mixed with volumes of steam, were thrown out from +the crater; the clouds thus generated were condensed into heavy +rain, and large tracts of the Vesuvian slopes were deluged with +volcanic mud. It filled ravines, such as Fosso Grande, and +concreted and hardened there into pumiceous tufa--a very +instructive phenomenon. + +Immense injury was done to the rich territory of Somma, Ottajano +and Bosco by heavy rains, which swept along cinders, broke up the +road and bridges, and overturned trees and houses for the space of +fifteen days. + +There were few years during the nineteenth century in which +Vesuvius did not show symptoms of its internal fires, and at +intervals it manifested much activity, though not equaling the +terrible eruptions of its past history. The severest eruptions in +that century were those of 1871 and 1876. In the first a sudden +emission of lava killed twenty spectators at the mouth of the +crater, and only spent its fury after San Sebastian and Massa had +been well nigh annihilated. Fragments of rock were thrown up to +the height of 4,000 feet, and the explosions were so violent that +the whole countryside fled panic stricken to Naples. The activity +of the volcano, accompanied by distinct shocks of earthquake, +lasted for a week. + +In 1876, for three weeks together, lava streamed down the side of +Vesuvius, sweeping away the village of Cercolo and running nearly +to the sea at Ponte Maddaloni. There were then formed ten small +craters within the greater one. But these were united by a later +eruption in 1888, and pressure from beneath formed a vast cone +where they had been. + + +HARDIHOOD OF THE PEOPLE + + +It may seem strange that so dangerous a neighborhood should be +inhabited. But so it is. Though Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae +lie buried beneath the mud and ashes belched out of the mouth of +Vesuvius, the villages of Portici and Revina, Torre del Greco and +Torre del Annunziata have taken their place, and a large +population, cheerful and prosperous, flourishes around the +disturbed mountain and over the district of which it is the +somewhat untrustworthy safety-valve. + +It is thus that man, in his eagerness to cultivate all available +parts of the earth, dares the most frightful perils and ventures +into the most threatening situations, seeking to snatch the means +of life from the very jaws of death. The danger is soon forgotten, +the need of cultivation of the ground is ever pressing, and no +threats of peril seem capable of restraining the activity of man +for many years. Though the proposition of abandoning the Island of +Martinique has been seriously considered, the chances are that, +before many years have passed, a cheerful and busy population will +be at work again on the flanks of Mont Pelee. + + +MOUNT ETNA + + +On the eastern coast of the Island of Sicily, and not far from the +sea, rises in solitary grandeur Mount Etna, the largest and highest +of European volcanoes. Its height above the level of the sea is a +little over 10,870 feet, considerably above the limit of perpetual +snow. It accordingly presents the striking phenomenon of volcanic +vapors ascending from a snow-clad summit. The base of the mountain +is eighty-seven miles in circumference, and nearly circular; but +there is a wide additional extent all around overspread by its +lava. The lower portions of the mountain are exceedingly fertile, +and richly adorned with corn-fields, vineyards, olive-groves and +orchards. Above this region are extensive forests, chiefly of oak, +chestnut, and pine, with here and there clumps of cork-trees and +beech. In this forest region are grassy glades, which afford rich +pasture to numerous flocks. Above the forest lies a volcanic +desert, covered with black lava and slag. Out of this region, +which is comparatively flat rises the principal cone, about 1,100 +feet in height, having on its summit the crater, whence sulphurous +vapors are continually evolved. + +The great height of Etna has exerted a remarkable influence on its +general conformation: for the volcanic forces have rarely been of +sufficient energy to throw the lava quite up to the crater at the +summit. The consequence has been, that numerous subsidiary craters +and cones have been formed all around the flanks of the mountain, +so that it has become rather a cluster of volcanoes than a single +volcanic cone. + +The eruptions of this mountain have been numerous, records of them +extending back to several centuries before the Christian era, while +unrecorded ones doubtless took place much further back. After the +beginning of the Christian era, and more especially after the +breaking forth of Vesuvius in 79 A. D., Etna enjoyed longer +intervals of repose. Its eruptions since that time have +nevertheless been numerous--more especially during the intervals +when Vesuvius was inactive--there being a sort of alternation +between the periods of great activity of the two mountains; +although there are not a few instances of their having been both in +action at the same time. + + +SIMILARITY IN ETNA'S ERUPTIONS + + +There is a great similarity in the character of the eruptions of +Etna. Earthquakes presage the outburst, loud explosions follow, +rifts and bocche del fuoco open in the sides of the mountain; +smoke, sand, ashes and scoriae are discharged, the action localizes +itself in one or more craters, cinders are thrown up and accumulate +around the crater and cone, ultimately lava rises and frequently +breaks down one side of the cone where the resistance is least; +then the eruption is at an end. + +Smyth says: "The symptoms which precede an eruption are generally +irregular clouds of smoke, ferilli or volcanic lightnings, hollow +intonations and local earthquakes that often alarm the surrounding +country as far as Messina, and have given the whole province the +name of Val Demone, as being the abode of infernal spirits. These +agitations increase until the vast cauldron becomes surcharged with +the fused minerals, when, if the convulsion is not sufficiently +powerful to force them from the great crater (which, from its great +altitude and the weight of the candent matter, requires an uncommon +effort), they explode through that part of the side which offers +the least resistance with a grand and terrific effect, throwing +red-hot stones and flakes of fire to an incredible height, and +spreading ignited cinders and ashes in every direction." + +After the eruption of ashes, lava frequently follows, sometimes +rising to the top of the cone of cinders, at others disrupting it +on the least resisting side. When the lava has reached the base of +the cone it begins to flow down the mountain, and, being then in a +very fluid state, it moves with great velocity. As it cools, the +sides and surface begin to harden, its velocity decreases, and +after several days it moves only a few yards an hour. The internal +portions, however, part slowly with their heat, and months after +the eruption clouds of steam arise from the black and externally +cold lava-beds after rain; which, having penetrated through the +cracks, has found its way to the heated mass within. + + +THE ERUPTION OF 1669 + + +The most memorable of the eruptions of Etna was that which elevated +the double cone of Monte Rossi and destroyed a large part of the +city of Catania. It happened in the year 1669, and was preceded by +an earthquake, which overthrew the town of Nicolosi, situated ten +miles inland from Catania, and about twenty miles from the top of +Etna. The eruption began with the sudden opening of an enormous +fissure, extending from a little way above Nicolosi to within about +a mile of the top of the principal cone, its length being twelve +miles, its average breadth six feet, its depth unknown. + +We have a more detailed account of this eruption than of any +preceding one, as it was observed by men of science from various +countries. The account from which we select is that of Alfonso +Borelli, Professor of Mathematics in Catania. + +From the fissure above mentioned, he says, there came a bright +light. Six mouths opened in a line with it and emitted vast +columns of smoke, accompanied by loud bellowings which could be +heard forty miles off. Towards the close of the day a crater +opened about a mile below the others, which ejected red-hot stones +to a considerable distance, and afterward sand and ashes which +covered the country for a distance of sixty miles. The new crater +soon vomited forth a torrent of lava which presented a front of two +miles; it encircled Monpilieri, and afterward flowed towards +Belpasso, a town of 8,000 inhabitants, which was speedily +destroyed. Seven mouths of fire opened around the new crater, and +in three days united with it, forming one large crater 800 feet in +diameter. All this time the torrent of lava continued to descend, +it destroying the town of Mascalucia on the 23d of March. On the +same day the crater cast up great quantities of sand, ashes and +scoriae, and formed above itself the great double-coned hill now +called Monte Rossi, from the red color of the ashes of which it is +mainly composed. + + +VILLAGES AND CITIES BURIED + + +On the 25th very violent earthquakes occurred, and the cone above +the great central crater was shaken down into the crater for the +fifth time since the first century A. D. The original current of +lava divided into three streams, one of which destroyed San Pietro, +the second Camporotondo, and the third the lands about Mascalucia +and afterward the village of Misterbianco. Fourteen villages were +altogether destroyed, and the lava flowed toward Catania. At +Albanelli, two miles from the city, it undermined a hill covered +with cornfields and carried it forward a considerable distance. A +vineyard was also seen to be floating on its fiery surface. When +the lava reached the walls of Catania, it accumulated without +progression until it rose to the top of the wall, 60 feet in +height, and it then fell over in a fiery cascade and overwhelmed a +part of the city. Another portion of the same stream threw down +120 feet of the wall and flowed into the city. + +On the 23d of April the lava reached the sea, which it entered as a +stream 600 yards broad and 40 feet deep. The stream had moved at +the rate of thirteen miles in twenty days, but as it cooled it +moved less quickly, and during the last twenty-three days of its +course, it advanced only two miles. On reaching the sea the water, +of course, began to boil violently, and clouds of steam arose, +carrying with them particles of scoriae. Towards the end of April +the stream on the west side of Catania, which had appeared to be +consolidated, again burst forth, and flowed into the garden of the +Benedictine Monastery of San Niccola, and then branched off into +the city. Attempts were made to build walls to arrest its +progress. + +An attempt of another kind was made by a gentleman of Catania, +named Pappalardo, who took fifty men with him, having previously +provided them with skins for protection from the intense heat and +with crowbars to effect an opening in the lava. They pierced the +solid outer crust of solidified lava, and a rivulet of the molten +interior immediately gushed out and flowed in the direction of +Paterno, whereupon 500 men of that town, alarmed for its safety, +took up arms and caused Pappalardo and his men to desist. The lava +did not altogether stop for four months, and two years after it had +ceased to flow it was found to be red hot beneath the surface. +Even eight years after the eruption quantities of steam escaped +from the lava after a shower of rain. + + +THE STONES EJECTED + + +The stones which were ejected from the crater during this eruption +were often of considerable magnitude, and Borelli calculated that +the diameter of one which he saw was 50 feet; it was thrown to a +distance of a mile, and as it fell it penetrated the earth to a +depth of 23 feet. The volume of lava emitted during the eruption +amounted to many millions of cubic feet. Ferara considers that the +length of the stream was at least fifteen miles, while its average +width was between two and three miles, so that it covered at least +forty square miles of surface. + +Among the towns overflowed by this great eruption was Mompilieri. +Thirty-five years afterward, in 1704, an excavation was made on the +site of the principal church of this place, and at the depth of +thirty-five feet the workmen came upon the gate, which was adorned +with three statues. From under an arch which had been formed by +the lava, one of these statues, with a bell and some coins, were +extracted in good preservation. This fact is remarkable; for in a +subsequent eruption, which happened in 1766, a hill about fifty +feet in height, being surrounded on either side by two streams of +lava, was in a quarter of an hour swept along by the current. The +latter event may be explained by supposing that the hill in +question was cavernous in its structure, and that the lava, +penetrating into the cavities, forced asunder their walls, and so +detached the superincumbent mass from its supports. + +It is not by its streams of fire alone that Etna ravages the +valleys and plains at its base. It sometimes also deluges them +with great floods of water. On the 2d of March, 1755, two streams +of lava, issuing from the highest crater, were at once precipitated +on an enormous mass of very deep snow, which then clothed the +summit. These fiery currents ran through the snow to a distance of +three miles, melting it as they flowed. The consequence was, that +a tremendous torrent of water rushed down the sides of the +mountain, carrying with it vast quantities of sand, volcanic +cinders and blocks of lava, with which it overspread the flanks of +the mountain and the plains beneath, which it devastated in its +course. + +The volume of water was estimated at 16,000,000 cubic feet, it +forming a channel two miles broad and in some places thirty-four +feet deep, and flowing at the rate of two-thirds of a mile in a +minute. All the winter's snow on the mountain could not have +yielded such a flood, and Lyell considered that it melted older +layers of ice which had been preserved under a covering of volcanic +dust. + + +ETNA IN 1819 + + +Another great eruption took place in 1819, which presented some +peculiarities. Near the point whence the highest stream of lava +issued in 1811, there were opened three large mouths, which, with +loud explosions, threw up hot cinders and sand, illuminated by a +strong glare from beneath. Shortly afterwards there was opened, a +little lower down, another mouth, from which a similar eruption +took place; and still farther down there soon appeared a fifth, +whence there flowed a torrent of lava which rapidly spread itself +over the Val del Bove. During the first forty-eight hours it +flowed nearly four miles, when it received a great accession. The +three original mouths became united into one large crater, from +which, as well as from the other two mouths below, there poured +forth a vastly augmented torrent of lava, which rushed with great +impetuosity down the same valley. + +During its progress over this gentle slope, it acquired the usual +crust of hardened slag. It directed its course towards that point +at which Val del Bove opens into the narrow ravine beneath it-- +there being between the two a deep and almost perpendicular +precipice. Arrived at this point, the lava-torrent leaped over the +precipice in a vast cascade, and with a thundering noise, arising +chiefly from the crashing and breaking up of the solid crust, which +was in a great measure pounded to atoms by the fall; it throwing up +such vast clouds of dust as to awaken an alarm that a fresh +eruption had begun at this place, which is within the wooded +region. + +A very violent eruption, which lasted more than nine months, +commenced on the 21st of August, 1852. It was first witnessed by a +party of English tourists, who were ascending the mountain from +Nicolosi in order to see the sunrise from the summit. As they +approached the Casa Inglesi the crater commenced to give forth +ashes and flames of fire. In a narrow defile they were met by a +violent hurricane, which overthrew both the mules and their riders, +and urged them toward the precipices of the Val del Bove. They +sheltered themselves beneath some masses of lava, when suddenly an +earthquake shook the mountain, and their mules in terror fled away. +As day approached they returned on foot to Nicolosi, fortunately +without having sustained injury. In the course of the night many +bocche del fuoco (small lava vents) opened in that part of the Val +del Bove called the Bazo di Trifoglietto, a great fissure opened at +the base of the Giannicola Grande, and a crater was thrown up from +which for seventeen days showers of sand and scoriae were ejected. + + +EFFECT OF THE ERUPTION + + +During the next day a quantity of lava flowed down the Val del +Bove, branching off so that one stream advanced to the foot of +Monte Finocchio, and the other to Monte Calanna. Afterwards it +flowed towards Zaffarana, and devastated a large tract of wooded +region. Four days later a second crater was formed near the first, +from which lava was emitted, together with sand and scoriae, which +caused cones to arise around the craters. The lava moved but +slowly, and towards the end of August it came to a stand, only a +quarter of a mile from Zaffarana. + +On the second of September, Gemellaro ascended Monte Finocchio in +the Val del Bove in order to witness the outburst. He states that +the hill was violently agitated, like a ship at sea. The surface +of the Val del Bove appeared like a molten lake; scoriae were +thrown up from the craters to a great height, and loud explosions +were heard at frequent intervals. The eruption continued to +increase in violence. On October 6 two new mouths opened in the +Val del Bove, emitting lava which flowed towards the valley of +Calanna, and fell over the Salto della Giumenta, a precipice nearly +200 feet deep. The noise which it produced was like that of a +clash of metallic masses. The eruption continued with abated +violence during the early months of 1853, and it did not finally +cease till May 27. The entire mass of lava ejected is estimated to +have been equal to an area six miles long by two miles broad, with +an average depth of about twelve feet. + +This eruption was one of the grandest of all the known eruptions of +Etna. During its outflow more than 2,000,000,000 cubic feet of +molten lava was spread out over a space of three square miles. +There have been several eruptions since its date, but none of +marked prominence, though the mountain is rarely quiescent for any +lengthened period. + + +THE LIPARI VOLCANOES + + +South-eastward of Ischia, between Calabria and Sicily, the Lipari +Islands arrest attention for the volcanic phenomena they present. +On one of these is Mount Vulcano, or Volcano, from which all this +class of mountains is named. At present the best known of the +Lipari volcanoes is Stromboli, which consists of a single mountain, +having a very obtuse conical form. It has on one side of it +several small craters, of which only one is at present in a state +of activity. + +The total height of the mountain is about 2000 feet, and the +principal crater is situated at about two-thirds of the height. +Stromboli is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. It is +mentioned as being in a state of activity by several writers before +the Christian era, and the commencement of its operations extends +into the past beyond the limits of tradition. Since history began +its action has never wholly ceased, although it may have varied in +intensity from time to time. + +It has been observed that the violence of its eruptive force has a +certain dependence on the weather--being always most intense when +the barometer is lowest. From the position of the crater, it is +possible to ascend the mountain and look down upon it from above. +Even when viewed in this manner, it presents a very striking +appearance. While there is an uninterrupted continuance of small +explosions, there is a frequent succession of more violent +eruptions, at intervals varying in length from seven to fifteen +minutes. + + +HOFFMAN AT STROMBOLI + + +Several eminent observers have approached quite close to the +crater, and examined it narrowly. One of these was M. Hoffman, who +visited it in 1828. + +This eminent geologist, while having his legs held by his +companions, stretched his head over the precipice, and, looking +right down into the mouth of one of the vents of the crater +immediately under him, watched the play of liquid lava within it. +Its surface resembled molten silver, and was constantly rising and +falling at regular intervals. A bubble of white vapor rose and +escaped, with a decrepitating noise, at each ascent of the lava-- +tossing up red-hot fragments of scoria, which continued dancing up +and down with a sort of rhythmic play upon the surface. At +intervals of fifteen minutes or so, there was a pause in these +movements. Then followed a loud report, while the ground trembled, +and there rose to the surface of the lava an immense bubble of +vapor. This, bursting with a crackling noise, threw out to the +height of about 1200 feet large quantities of red-hot stones and +scoriae, which, describing parabolic curves, fell in a fiery, +shower all around. After another brief repose, the more moderate +action was resumed as before. + +Lipari, a neighboring volcano, was formerly more active than +Stromboli, though for centuries past it has been in a state of +complete quiescence. The Island of Volcano lies south of Lipari. +Its crater was active before the Christian era, and still emits +sulphurous and other vapors. At present its main office is to +serve as a sulphur mine. Thus the peak which gives title to all +fire-breathing mountains has become a servant to man. So are the +mighty fallen! + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +Skaptar Jokull and Hecla, the Great Icelandic Volcanoes. + + +The far-northern island of Iceland, on the verge of the frozen +Arctic realm, is one of the most volcanic countries in the world, +whether we regard the number of volcanoes concentrated in so small +a space, or the extraordinary violence of their eruptions. Of +volcanic mountains there are no less than twenty which have been +active during historical times. Skaptar in the north, and Hecla in +the south, being much the best known. In all, twenty-three +eruptions are on record. + +Iceland's volcanoes rival Mount Aetna in height and magnitude, +their action has been more continuous and intense, and the range of +volcanic products is far greater than in Sicily. The latter +island, indeed, is not one-tenth of volcanic origin, while the +whole of Iceland is due to the work of subterranean forces. It is +entirely made up of volcanic rocks, and has seemingly been built up +during the ages from the depths of the seas. It is reported, +indeed, that a new island, the work of volcanic forces, appeared +opposite Mount Hecla in 1563; but this statement is open to doubt. + + +VOLCANOES IN ICELAND + + +The eruptions of the volcanoes in Iceland have been amongst the +most terrible of those carefully recorded. The cold climate of the +island and the height of the mountains produce vast quantities of +snow and ice, which cover the volcanoes and fill up the cracks and +valleys in their sides. When, therefore, an eruption commences, +the intense heat of the boiling lava, and of the steam which rushes +forth from the crater, makes the whole mountain hot, and vast +masses of ice, great fields of snow, and deluges of water roll down +the hill-sides into the plains. The lava pours from the top and +from cracks in the side of the mountain, or is ejected hundreds of +feet, to fall amongst the ice and snow; and the great masses of +red-hot stone cast forth, accompanied by cinders and fine ashes, +splash into the roaring torrent, which tears up rocks in its course +and devastates the surrounding country for miles. + + +DREADFUL FLOODS + + +An eruption of Kotlugja, in 1860, was accompanied by dreadful +floods. It began with a number of earthquakes, which shook the +surrounding country. Then a dark columnar cloud of vapor was seen +to rise by day from the mountain, and by night balls of fire +(volcanic bombs) and red-hot cinders to the height of 24,000 feet +(nearly five miles), which were seen at a distance of 180 miles. +Deluges of water rushed from the heights, bearing along whole +fields of ice and rocky fragments of every size, some vomited from +the volcano, but in great part torn from the flanks of the mountain +itself and carried to the sea, there to add considerably to the +coastline after devastating the intervening country. The fountain +of volcanic bombs consisted of masses of lava, containing gases +which exploded and produced a loud sound, which was said to have +been heard at a distance of 100 miles. The size of the bombs, and +the height to which they must have reached, were very great. But +the most remarkable of the historical eruptions in Iceland were +those of Skaptar Jokull in 1783, and of Hecla in 1845. Of these an +extended description is worthy of being given. + +Of these two memorable eruptions, that of Skaptar Jokull began on +the 11th of June, 1783. It was preceded by a long series of +earthquakes, which had become exceedingly violent immediately +before the eruption. On the 8th, volcanic vapors were emitted from +the summit of the mountain, and on the 11th immense torrents of +lava began to be poured forth from numerous mouths. These torrents +united to form a large stream, which, flowing down into the river +Skapta, not only dried it up, but completely filled the vast gorge +through which the river had held its course. This gorge, 200 feet +in breadth, and from 400 to 600 feet in depth, the lava filled so +entirely as to overflow to a considerable extent the fields on +either side. On issuing from this ravine, the lava flowed into a +deep lake which lay in the course of the river. Here it was +arrested for a while; but it ultimately filled the bed of the lake +altogether--either drying up its waters, or chasing them before it +into the lower part of the river's course. Still forced onward by +the accumulation of molten lava from behind, the stream resumed its +advance, till it reached some ancient volcanic rocks which were +full of caverns. Into these it entered, and where it could not eat +its way by melting the old rock, it forced a passage by shivering +the solid mass and throwing its broken fragments into the air to a +height of 150 feet. + + +A TORRENT OF LAVA + + +On the 18th of June there opened above the first mouth a second of +large dimensions, whence poured another immense torrent of lava, +which flowed with great rapidity over the solidified surface of the +first stream, and ultimately combined with it to form a more +formidable main current. When this fresh stream reached the fiery +lake, which had filled the lower portion of the valley of the +Skapta, a portion of it was forced up the channel of that river +towards the foot of the hill whence it takes its rise. After +pursuing its course for several days, the main body of this stream +reached the edge of a great waterfall called Stapafoss, which +plunged into a deep abyss. Displacing the water, the lava here +leaped over the precipice, and formed a great cataract of fire. +After this, it filled the channel of the river, though extending +itself in breadth far beyond it, and followed it until it reached +the sea. + + +ENORMOUS QUANTITY OF LAVA + + +The 3rd of August brought fresh accessions to the flood of lava +still pouring from the mountain. There being no room in the +channel, now filled by the former lurid stream, which had pursued a +northwesterly course, the fresh lava was forced to take a new +direction towards the southeast, where it entered the bed of +another river with a barbaric name. Here it pursued a course +similar to that which flowed through the channel of the Skapta, +filling up the deep gorges, and then spreading itself out into +great fiery lakes over the plains. + +The eruptions of lava from the mountain continued, with some short +intervals, for two years, and so enormous was the quantity poured +forth during this period that, according to a careful estimate +which has been made, the whole together would form a mass equal to +that of Mont Blanc. Of the two streams, the greater was fifty, the +less forty, miles in length. The Skapta branch attained on the +plains a breadth varying from twelve to fifteen miles--that of the +other was only about half as much. Each of the currents had an +average depth of 100 feet, but in the deep gorges it was no less +than 600 feet. Even as late as 1794 vapors continued to rise from +these great streams, and the water contained in the numerous +fissures formed in their crust was hot. + +The devastation directly wrought by the lava currents themselves +was not the whole of the evils they brought upon unfortunate +Iceland and its inhabitants. Partly owing to the sudden melting of +the snows and glaciers of the mountain, partly owing to the +stoppage of the river courses, immense floods of water deluged the +country in the neighborhood, destroying many villages and a large +amount of agricultural and other property. Twenty villages were +overwhelmed by the lava currents, while the ashes thrown out during +the eruption covered the whole island and the surface of the sea +for miles around its shores. On several occasions the ashes were +drifted by the winds over considerable parts of the European +continent, obscuring the sun and giving the sky a gray and gloomy +aspect. In certain respects they reproduced the phenomena of the +explosion of Mount Krakatoa, which, singularly, occurred just a +century later, in 1883. The strange red sunset phenomena of the +latter were reproduced by this Icelandic event of the eighteenth +century. + +Out of the 50,000 persons who then inhabited Iceland, 9,336 +perished, together with 11,460 head of cattle, 190,480 sheep and +28,000 horses. This dreadful destruction of life was caused partly +by the direct action of the lava currents, partly by the noxious +vapors they emitted, partly by the floods of water, partly by the +destruction of the herbage by the falling ashes, and lastly in +consequence of the desertion of the coasts by the fish, which +formed a large portion of the food of the people. + + +ERUPTION OF MOUNT HECLA + + +After this frightful eruption, no serious volcanic disturbance took +place in Iceland until 1845, when Mount Hecla again became +disastrously active. Mount Hecla has been the most frequent in its +eruptions of any of the Icelandic volcanoes. Previous to 1845 +there had been twenty-two recorded eruptions of this mountain, +since the discovery of Iceland in the ninth century; while from all +the other volcanoes in the island there had been only twenty during +the same period. Hecla has more than once remained in activity for +six years at a time--a circumstance that has rendered it the best +known of the volcanoes of this region. + + +LATER OUTBREAKS + + +After enjoying a long rest of seventy-nine years, this volcano +burst again into violent activity in the beginning of September, +1845. The first inkling of this eruption was conveyed to the +British Islands by a fall of volcanic ashes in the Orkneys, which +occurred on the night of September 2nd during a violent storm. +This palpable hint was soon confirmed by direct intelligence from +Copenhagen. On the 1st of September a severe earthquake, followed +the same night by fearful subterranean noises, alarmed the +inhabitants and gave warning of what was to come. About noon the +next day, with a dreadful crash, there opened in the sides of the +volcano two new mouths, whence two great streams of glowing lava +poured forth. They fortunately flowed down the northern and +northwestern sides of the mountain, where the low grounds are mere +barren heaths, affording a scanty pasture for a few sheep. These +were driven before the fiery stream, but several of them were burnt +before they could escape. The whole mountain was enveloped in +clouds of volcanic ashes and vapors. The rivers near the lava +currents became so hot as to kill the fish, and to be impassable +even on horseback. + +About a fortnight later there was a fresh eruption, of greater +violence, which lasted twenty-two hours, and was accompanied by +detonations so loud as to be heard over the whole island. Two new +craters were formed, one on the southern, the other on the eastern +slope of the cone. The lava issuing from these craters flowed to a +distance of more than twenty-two miles. At about two miles from +its source the fiery stream was a mile wide, and from 40 to 50 feet +deep. It destroyed a large extent of fine pasture and many cattle. +Nearly a month later, on the 15th of October, a fresh flood of lava +burst from the southern crater, and soon heaped up a mass at the +foot of the mountain from 40 to 60 feet in height, three great +columns of vapor, dust and ashes rising at the same time from the +three new craters of the volcano. The mountain continued in a +state of greater or less activity during most of the next year; and +even as late as the month of October, 1846, after a brief pause, it +began again with renewed vehemence. The volumes of dust, ashes and +vapor, thrown up from the craters, and brightly illuminated by the +glowing lava beneath, assumed the appearance of flames, and +ascended to an immense height. + + +ELECTRIC PHENOMENA + + +Among the stones tossed out of the craters was one large mass of +pumice weighing nearly half a ton, which was carried to a distance +of between four and five miles. The rivers were flooded by the +melting of ice and snow which had accumulated on the mountain. The +greatest mischief wrought by these successive eruptions was the +destruction of the pasturages, which were for the most part covered +with volcanic ashes. Even where left exposed, the herbage acquired +a poisonous taint which proved fatal to the cattle, inducing among +them a peculiar murrain. Fortunately, owing to the nature of the +district through which the lava passed, there was on this occasion +no loss of human life. + +The Icelandic volcanoes are remarkable for the electric phenomena +which they produce in the atmosphere. Violent thunder-storms, with +showers of rain and hail, are frequent accompaniments of volcanic +eruptions everywhere; but owing to the coldness and dryness of the +air into which the vapors from the Icelandic volcanoes ascend, +their condensation is so sudden and violent that great quantities +of electricity are developed. Thunder-storms accompanied by the +most vivid lightnings are the result. Humboldt mentions in his +"Cosmos" that, during an eruption of Kotlugja, one of the southern +Icelandic volcanoes, the lightning from the cloud of volcanic vapor +killed eleven horses and two men (Cosmos i. 223). Great displays +of the aurora borealis usually accompany the volcanic eruptions of +this island--doubtless resulting from the quantity of electricity +imparted to the higher atmosphere by the condensation of the +ascending vapors. On the 18th of August, 1783, while the great +eruption of Skaptar Jokull was in progress, an immense fire-ball +passed over England and the European continent as far as Rome. +This ball which was estimated to have had a diameter exceeding half +a mile, is supposed to have been of electrical origin, and due to +the high state of electric tension in the atmosphere over Iceland +at that time. + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +Volcanoes of the Philippines and Other Pacific Islands. + + +We cannot do better than open this chapter with an account of the +work of volcanoes in the mountain-girdled East Indian island of +Java. This large and fertile tropical island has a large native +population, and many European settlers are employed in cultivating +spices, coffee and woods. The island is rather more than 600 miles +long, and it is not 150 miles broad in any part; and this narrow +shape is produced by a chain of volcanoes which runs along it. +There is scarcely any other region in the world where volcanoes are +so numerous, even in the East, where the volcano is a very common +product of nature. Some of the volcanoes of Java are constantly in +eruption, while others are inactive. + +One of their number, Galung Gung, was previous to 1822 covered from +top to bottom with a dense forest; around it were populous +villages. The mountain was high; there was a slight hollow on its +top--a basin-like valley, carpeted with the softest sward; brooks +rippled down the hillside through the forests, and, joining their +silvery streams, flowed on through beautiful valleys into the +distant sea. In the month of July, 1822, there were signs of an +approaching disturbance; this tranquil peacefulness was at an end; +one of the rivers became muddy, and its waters grew hot. + +In October, without any warning, a most terrific eruption occurred. +A loud explosion was heard; the earth shook, and immense columns of +hot water, boiling mud mixed with burning brimstone, ashes and +stones, were hurled upwards from the mountain top like a +waterspout, and with such wonderful force that large quantities +fell at a distance of forty miles. Every valley near the mountain +became filled with burning torrents; the rivers, swollen with hot +water and mud, overflowed their banks, and swept away the escaping +villagers; and the bodies of cattle, wild beasts, and birds were +carried down the flooded stream. + + +ERUPTION OF GALUNG GUNG + + +A space of twenty-four miles between the mountain and a river forty +miles distant was covered to such a depth with blue mud, that +people were buried in their houses, and not a trace of the numerous +villages and plantations was visible. The boiling mud and cinders +were cast forth with such violence from the crater, that while many +distant villages were utterly destroyed and buried, others much +nearer the volcano were scarcely injured; and all this was done in +five short hours. + +Four days afterwards a second eruption occurred more violent than +the first, and hot water and mud were cast forth with masses of +slag like the rock called basalt some of which fell seven miles +off. A violent earthquake shook the whole district, and the top of +the mountain fell in, and so did one of its sides, leaving a gaping +chasm. Hills appeared where there had been level land before, and +the rivers changed their courses, drowning in one night 2,000 +people. At some distance from the mountain a river runs through a +large town, and the first intimation the inhabitants had of all +this horrible destruction was the news that the bodies of men and +the carcases of stags, rhinoceroses, tigers, and other animals, +were rushing along to the sea. No less than 114 villages were +destroyed, and above 4,000 persons were killed by this terrible +catastrophe. + +Fifty years before this eruption, Mount Papandayang, one of the +highest burning mountains of Java, was constantly throwing out +steam and smoke, but as no harm was done, the natives continued to +live on its sides. Suddenly this enormous mountain fell in, and +left a gap fifteen miles long and six broad. Forty villages were +destroyed, some being carried down and others overwhelmed by mud +and burning lava. No less than 2,957 people perished, with vast +numbers of cattle; moreover, most of the coffee plantations in the +neighboring districts were destroyed. + +Even more terrible was the eruption of Mount Salek, another of the +volcanoes of Java. The burning of the mountain was seen 100 miles +away, while the thunders of its convulsions and the tremblings of +the earth reached the same distance. Seven hills, at whose base +ran a river--crowded with dead buffaloes, deer, apes, tigers, and +crocodiles--slipped down and became a level plain. River-courses +were changed, forests were burnt up, and the whole face of the +country was completely altered. + +Later volcanic eruptions in Java include that of 1843, when Mount +Guntur flung out sand and ashes estimated at the vast total of +thirty million tons, and those of 1849 and 1872 when Mount Merapi, +a very active volcano, covered a great extent of country with +stones and ashes, and ruined the coffee plantations of the +neighboring districts. + +We have said nothing concerning the most terrible explosion of all, +that of the volcanic island of Krakatoa, off the Javan coast. This +event was so phenomenal as to deserve a chapter of its own, for +which we reserve it. + +The United States, as one result of its recent acquisition of +island dominions, has added largely to its wealth in volcanic +mountains. The famous Hawaiian craters, far the greatest in the +world, now belong to our national estate, and the Philippine +Islands contain various others, of less importance, yet some of +which have proved very destructive. A description of those of the +Island of Luzon, which are the most active in the archipelago, is +here sub-joined. + + +THE LUZON VOLCANOES. + + +Volcanoes have played an important part in the formation of the +Philippine Islands and have left traces of their former activity in +all directions. Most of them, however, have long been dead and +silent, only a few of the once numerous group being now active. Of +these there are three of importance in the southern region of +Luzon--Taal, Bulusan and Mayon or Albay. + +The last named of these is the largest and most active of the +existing volcanoes. In form it is of marvellous grace and beauty, +forming a perfect cone, about fifty miles in circuit at base and +rising to a height of 8,900 feet. It is one of the most prominent +landmarks to navigators in the island. From its crater streams +upward a constant smoke, accompanied at times by flame, while from +its depths issue subterranean sounds, often heard at a distance of +many leagues. The whole surrounding country is marked by evidences +of old eruptions. + +This mountain, in 1767, sent up a cone of flame of forty feet in +diameter at base, for ten days, and for two months a wide stream of +lava poured from its crater. A month later there gushed forth +great floods of water, which filled the rivers to overflow, doing +widespread damage to the neighboring plantations. But its greatest +and most destructive eruption took place in 1812, the year of the +great eruption of the St. Vincent volcano. On this fatal occasion +several towns were destroyed and no less than 12,000 people lost +their lives. The debris flung forth from the crater were so +abundant that deposits deep enough to bury the tallest trees were +formed near the mountain. In 1867 another disastrous explosion +took place, and still another in 1888. A disaster different in +kind and cause occurred in 1876, when a terrible tropical storm +burst upon the mountain. The floods of rain swept from its sides +the loose volcanic material, and brought destruction to the +neighboring country, more than six thousand houses being ruined by +the rushing flood. + + +BULUSAN AND TAAL + + +Bulusan, a volcano on the southern extremity of the island, +resembles Vesuvius in shape. For many years it remained dormant, +but in 1852 smoke began to issue from its crater. In some respects +the most interesting of these three volcanoes is that of Taal, +which lies almost due south of Manila and about forty-five miles +distant, on a small island in the middle of a large lake, known as +Bombom or Bongbong. A remarkable feature of this volcanic mountain +is that it is probably the lowest in the world, its height being +only 850 feet above sea level. There are doubtful traditions that +Lake Bombom, a hundred square miles in extent, was formed by a +terrible eruption in 1700, by which a lofty mountain 8000 or 9000 +feet high, was destroyed. The vast deposits of porous tufa in the +surrounding country are certainly evidences of former great +eruptions from Mount Taal. + +The crater of this volcano is an immense, cup-shaped depression, a +mile or more in diameter and about 800 feet deep. When recently +visited by Professor Worcester, during his travels in these +islands, he found it to contain three boiling lakelets of +strangely-colored water, one being of a dirty brown hue, a second +intensely yellow in tint, and the third of a brilliant emerald +green. The mountain still steams and fumes, as if too actively at +work below to be at rest above. In past times it has shown the +forces at play in its depths by breaking at times into frightful +activity. Of the various explosions on record, the three most +violent were those of 1716, 1749, and 1754. In the last-named year +the earth for miles round quaked with the convulsive throes of the +deeply disturbed mountain, and vast quantities of volcanic dust +were hurled high into the air, sufficient to make it dark at midday +for many leagues around. The roofs of distant Manila were covered +with volcanic dust and ashes. Molten lava also poured from the +crater and flowed into the lake, which boiled with the intense +heat, while great showers of stones and ashes fell into its waters. + + +VOLCANOES IN THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS + + +Extinct volcanoes are numerous in Luzon, and there are smoking +cones in the north, and also in the Babuyanes Islands still farther +north. Volcanoes also exist in several of the other islands. On +Negros is the active peak of Malaspina, and on Camiguin, an island +about ninety miles to the southeast, a new volcano broke out in +1876. The large island of Mindanao has three volcanoes, of which +Cottabato was in eruption in 1856 and is still active at intervals. +Apo, the largest of the three, estimated to be 10,312 feet high, +has three summits, within which lies the great crater, now extinct +and filled with water. + +In evidence of former volcanic activity are the abundant deposits +of sulphur on the island of Leyte, the hot springs in various +localities, and the earthquakes which occasionally bring death and +destruction. Of the many of these on record, the most destructive +was in 1863, when 400 people were killed and 2,000 injured, while +many buildings were wrecked. Another in 1880 wrought great +destruction in Manila and elsewhere, though without loss of life. +An earthquake in Mindanao in 1675 opened a passage to the sea, and +a vast plain emerged. These convulsions of the earth affect the +form and elevation of buildings, which are rarely more than two +stories high and lightly built, while translucent sea-shells +replace glass in their windows. + +While Java is the most prolific in volcanoes of the islands of the +Malayan Archipelago, other islands of the group possess active +cones, including Sumatra, Bali, Amboyna, Banda and others. In +Sanguir, an island north of Celebes, is a volcanic mountain from +which there was a destructive eruption in 1856. The country was +devastated with lava, stones and volcanic ashes, ruining a wide +district and killing nearly 3,000 of the inhabitants. Mount +Madrian in one of the Spice Islands, was rent in twain by a fierce +eruption in 1646, and since then has remained two distinct +mountains. It became active again in 1862, after two centuries of +repose, and caused great loss of life and property. Sorea, a small +island of the same group, forming but a single volcanic mountain, +had an eruption in 1693, the cone crumbling gradually till a vast +crater was formed, filled with liquid lava and occupying nearly +half the island. This lake of fire increased in size by the same +process till in the end it took possession of the island and forced +all the inhabitants to flee to more hospitable shores. + + +THE GREAT ERUPTION OF TOMBORO + + +But of the East Indian Islands Sumbawa, lying east of Java, +contains the most formidable volcano--one indeed scarcely without a +rival in the world. This is named Tomboro. Of its various +eruptions the most furious on record was that of 1815. This, as we +are told by Sir Stamford Raffles, far exceeded in force and +duration any of the known outbreaks of Etna or Vesuvius. The +ground trembled and the echoes of its roar were heard through an +area of 1,000 miles around the volcano, and to a distance of 300 +miles its effects were astounding. + +In Java, 300 miles away, ashes filled the air so thickly that the +solar rays could not penetrate them, and fell to the depth of +several inches. The detonations were so similar to the reports of +artillery as to be mistaken for them. The Rajah of Sang'ir, who +was an eye-witness of the eruption, thus described it to Sir +Stamford: + +"About 7 P. M. on the 10th of April, three distinct columns of +flame burst forth near the top of the Tomboro mountain (all of them +apparently within the verge of the crater), and, after ascending +separately to a very great height, their tops united in the air in +a troubled, confused manner. In short time the whole mountain next +Sang'ir appeared like a body of liquid fire, extending itself in +every direction. The fire and columns of flame continued to rage +with unabated fury, until the darkness caused by the quantity of +falling matter obscured them, at about 8 P. M. Stones at this time +fell very thick at Sang'ir--some of them as large as two fists, but +generally not larger than walnuts. Between 9 and 10 P. M. ashes +began to fall, and soon after a violent whirlwind ensued, which +blew down nearly every house in the village of Sang'ir--carrying +the roofs and light parts away with it. In the port of Sang'ir, +adjoining Tomboro, its effects were much more violent--tearing up +by the roots the largest trees, and carrying them into the air, +together with men, horses, cattle, and whatever else came within +its influence. This will account for the immense number of +floating trees seen at sea. The sea rose nearly twelve feet higher +than it had ever been known to do before, and completely spoiled +the only spots of rice-land in Sang'ir--sweeping away houses and +everything within its reach. The whirlwind lasted about an hour. +No explosions were heard till the whirlwind had ceased, at about 11 +P.M. From midnight till the evening of the 11th, they continued +without intermission. After that time their violence moderated, +and they were heard only at intervals; but the explosions did not +cease entirely until the 15th of July. Of all the villages of +Tomboro, Tempo, containing about forty inhabitants, is the only one +remaining. In Pekate no vestige of a house is left; twenty-six of +the people, who were at Sumbawa at the time, are the whole of the +population who have escaped. From the most particular inquiries I +have been able to make, there were certainly no fewer than 12,000 +individuals in Tomboro and Pekate at the time of the eruption, of +whom only five or six survive. The trees and herbage of every +description, along the whole of the north and west sides of the +peninsula, have been completely destroyed, with the exception of +those on a high point of land, near the spot where the village of +Tomboro stood." + +Tomboro village was not only invaded by the sea on this occasion, +but its site permanently subsided; so that there is now eighteen +feet of water where there was formerly dry land. + + +THE VOLCANOES OF JAPAN + + +The Japanese archipelago, as stated in an earlier chapter, is +abundantly supplied with volcanoes, a number of them being active. +Of these the best known to travelers is Asamayama, a mountain 8,500 +feet high, of which there are several recorded eruptions. The +first of these was in 1650; after which the volcano remained feebly +active till 1783, when it broke out in a very severe eruption. In +1870 there was another of some severity, accompanied by violent +shocks of earthquake felt at Yokohama. The crater is very deep, +with irregular rocky walls of a sulphurous character. + +Far the most famous of all the Japanese mountains, however, is that +named Fuji-san, but commonly termed in English Fujiyama or +Fusiyama. It is in the vicinity of the capital, and is the most +prominent object in the landscape for many miles around. The apex +is shaped somewhat like an eight-petaled lotus flower, and offers +to view from different directions from three to five peaks. + +Though now apparently extinct, it was formerly an active volcano, +and is credited in history with several very disastrous eruptions. +The last of these was in 1707, at which time the whole summit burst +into flames. Rocks were split and shattered by the heat, and +stones fell to the depth of several inches in Yeddo (now Tokyo), +sixty miles away. At present there are in its crater, which has a +depth of 700 or 800 feet, neither sulphurous exhalations nor steam. +According to Japanese tradition this great peak was upheaved in a +single night from the bottom of the sea, more than twenty-one +hundred years ago. + +Nothing can be more majestic than this volcano, extinct though it +be, rising in an immense cone from the plain to the height of over +twelve thousand feet, truncated at the top, and with its peak +almost always snow-covered. Its ascent is not difficult to an +expert climber, and has frequently been made. From its summit is +unfolded a panorama beyond the power of words to describe, and +probably the most remarkable on the globe. Mountains, valleys, +lakes, forests and the villages of thirteen counties may be seen. +As we gaze upon its beautifully shaped and lofty mass, visible even +from Yokohama and a hundred miles at sea, one does not wonder that +it should be regarded as a holy mountain, and that it should form a +conspicuous object in every Japanese work of art. It is to the +natives of Japan as Mont Blanc is to Europeans, the "monarch of +mountains." + +In summer pilgrimages are made around the base of the summit +elevation, and there are on the upward path a number of Buddhist +temples and shrines, made of blocks of stone, for devotion, shelter +and the storage of food for pilgrims. Hakone Lake is three +thousand feet above the sea, and probably lies in the crater of an +extinct volcano. Its waters are very deep; it is several miles +long and wide, and is surrounded by high hills which abound in fine +scenery, solfataras and mineral springs. + + +HOT SPRINGS NEAR HAKONE LAKE + + +At this place the mountain seems to be smouldering, as sulphur +fumes and steam issue at many points, and the ground is covered +with a friable white alkaline substance. In many a hollow the +water bubbles with clouds of vapor and sulphuretted hydrogen; here +the soil is hot and evidently underlaid by active fires. It is not +safe to go very near, as the crust is thin and crumbling. The +water running down the hills has a refreshing sound and a tempting +clearness, but the thirsty tongue at once detects it to be a very +strong solution of alum. The whole aspect of the place is +infernal, and naturally suggests the name given its principal +geyser, O-gigoko (Big Hell). + +Fujiyama is almost a perfect cone, with, as above said, a truncated +top, in which is the crater. It is, however, less steep than +Mayon. Its upper part is comparatively steep, even to thirty-five +degrees, but below this portion the inclination gradually lessens, +till its elegant outlines are lost in the plain from which it +rises. The curves of the sides depend partly on the nature, size +and shape of the ejected material, the fine uniform pieces +remaining on comparatively steep slopes, while the larger and +rounder ones roll farther down, resting on the inclination that +afterward becomes curved from the subsidence of the central mass. + +The most recent and one of the most destructive of volcanic +eruptions recorded in Japan was that of Bandaisan or Baldaisan. +For ages this mountain had been peaceful, and there was scarcely an +indication of its volcanic character or of the terrific forces +which lay dormant deep within its heart. On its flanks lay some +small deposits of scoriae, indications of far-past eruptions, and +there were some hot springs at its base, while steam arose from a +fissure. Yet there was nothing to warn the people of the vicinity +that deadly peril lay under their feet. + + +BANDAISAN'S WORK OF TERROR + + +This sense of security was fatally dissipated on a day in July, +1888, when the mountain suddenly broke into eruption and flung +1,600 million cubic yards of its summit material so high into the +air that many of the falling fragments, in their fall, struck the +ground with such velocity as to be buried far out of sight. The +steam and dust were driven to a height of 13,000 feet, where they +spread into a canopy of much greater elevation, causing pitchy +darkness beneath. There were from fifteen to twenty violent +explosions, and a great landslide devastated about thirty square +miles and buried many villages in the Nagase Valley. + +Mr. Norman, a traveler who visited the spot shortly afterward, thus +describes the scene of ruin. After a journey through the forests +which clothed the slopes of the volcanic mountain and prevented any +distant view, the travelers at last found themselves "standing upon +the ragged edge of what was left of the mountain of Bandaisan, +after two-thirds of it, including, of course, the summit, had been +literally blown away and spread over the face of the country. + +"The original cone of the mountain," he continues, "had been +truncated at an acute angle to its axis. From our very feet a +precipitous mud slope falls away for half a mile or more till it +reaches the level. At our right, still below us, rises a mud wall +a mile long, also sloping down to the level, and behind it is +evidently the crater; but before us, for five miles in a straight +line, and on each side nearly as far, is a sea of congealed mud, +broken up into ripples and waves and great billows, and bearing +upon its bosom a thousand huge boulders, weighing hundreds of tons +apiece." + +On reaching the crater he found it to resemble a gigantic cauldron, +fully a mile in width, and enclosed with precipitous walls of +indurated mud. From several orifices volumes of steam rose into +the air, and when the vapor cleared away for a moment glimpses of a +mass of boiling mud were obtained. Before the eruption the +mountain top had terminated in three peaks. Of these the highest +had an elevation of about 5,800 feet. The peak destroyed was the +middle one, which was rather smaller than the other two. + +"The explosion was caused by steam; there was neither fire nor lava +of any kind. It was, in fact, nothing more nor less than a +gigantic boiler explosion. The whole top and one side of Sho- +Bandai-san had been blown into the air in a lateral direction, and +the earth of the mountain was converted by the escaping steam, at +the moment of the explosion, into boiling mud, part of which was +projected into the air to fall at a long distance, and then take +the form of an overflowing river, which rushed with vast rapidity +and covered the country to a depth of from 20 to 150 feet. Thirty +square miles of country were thus devastated." + +In the devastated lowlands and buried villages below and on the +slopes of the mountain many lives were lost. From the survivors +Mr. Norman gathered some information, enabling him to describe the +main features of the catastrophe. We append a brief outline of his +narrative: + + +MR. NORMAN'S NARRATIVE + + +"At a few minutes past 8 o'clock in the morning a frightful noise +was heard by the inhabitants of a village ten miles distant from +the crater. Some of them instinctively took to flight, but before +they could run much more than a hundred yards the light of day was +suddenly changed into a darkness more intense than that of +midnight; a shower of blinding hot ashes and sand poured down upon +them; the ground was shaken with earthquakes, and explosion +followed explosion, the last being the most violent of all. Many +fugitives, as well as people in the houses, were overwhelmed by the +deluge of mud, none of the fugitives, when overtaken by death, +being more than two hundred yards from the village." From the +statements made by those fortunate enough to escape with their +lives, and from a personal examination of the ground, Mr. Norman +inferred that the mud must have been flung fully six miles through +the air and then have poured in a torrent along the ground for four +miles further. All this was done in less than five minutes, so +that "millions of tons of boiling mud were hurled over the country +at the rate of two miles a minute." + +The velocity of the mud torrent may perhaps be overestimated, but +in its awful suddenness this catastrophe was evidently one with few +equals. The cone destroyed may have been largely composed of +rather fine ashes and scoriae, which was almost instantaneously +converted into mud by the condensing steam and the boiling water +ejected. The quantity of water thus discharged must have been +enormous. + +Of the remaining volcanic regions of the Pacific, the New Zealand +islands present some of the most striking examples of activity. +All the central parts, indeed, of the northern island of the group +are of a highly volcanic character. There is here a mountain named +Tongariro, on whose snow-clad summit is a deep crater, from which +volcanic vapors are seen to issue, and which exhibits other +indications of having been in a state of greater activity at a not +very remote period of time. There is also, at no great distance +from this mountain, a region containing numerous funnel-shaped +chasms, emitting hot water, or steam, or sulphurous vapors, or +boiling mud. The earthquakes in New Zealand had probably their +origin in this volcanic focus. + + +THE NEW ZEALAND VOLCANOES + + +Tongariro has a height of about 6,500 feet, while Egmont, 8,270 +feet in height, is a perfect cone with a perpetual cap of snow. +There are many other volcanic mountains, and also great numbers of +mud volcanoes, hot springs and geysers. It is for the latter that +the island is best known to geologists. Their waters are at or +near the boiling point and contain silica in abundance. + +At a place called Rotomahana, in the vicinity of Mount Tarawera, +there was formerly a lake of about one hundred and twenty acres in +area, which was in its way one of the most remarkable bodies of +water upon the earth. Formerly, we say, for this lake no longer +exists, it having been destroyed by the very forces to which it +owed its fame. Its waters were maintained nearly at the boiling +point by the continual accession of boiling water from numerous +springs. The most abundant of those sources was situated at the +height of about 100 feet above the level of the lake. It kept +continually filled an oval basin about 250 feet in circumference-- +the margins of which were fringed all round with beautiful pure +white stalactites, formed by deposits of silica, with which the hot +water was strongly impregnated. At various stages below the +principal spring were several others, that contributed to feed the +lake at the bottom, in the centre of which was a small island. +Minute bubbles continually escaped from the surface of the water +with a hissing sound, and the sand all round the lake was at a high +temperature. If a stick was thrust into it, very hot vapors would +ascend from the hole. Not far from this lake were several small +basins filled with tepid water, which was very clear, and of a blue +color. + +The conditions here were of a kind with those to which are due the +great geysers of Iceland and the Yellowstone Park, but different in +the fact that instead of being intermittent and throwing up jets at +intervals, the springs allowed the water to flow from them in a +continuous stream. + + +THE PINK AND WHITE TERRACES + + +The silicious incrustations left by the overflow from the large +pool had made a series of terraces, two to six feet high, with the +appearance of being hewn from white or pink marble; each of the +basins containing a similar azure water. These terraces covered an +area of about three acres, and looked like a series of cataracts +changed into stone, each edge being fringed with a festoon of +delicate stalactites. The water contained about eighty-five per +cent. of silica, with one or two per cent of iron alumina, and a +little alkali. + +There were no more beautiful products of nature upon the earth than +those "pink and white terraces," as they were called. The hot +springs of the Yellowstone have produced formations resembling +them, but not their equal in fairy-like charm. One series of these +terraced pools and cascades was of the purest white tint, the other +of the most delicate pink, the waters topping over the edge of each +pool and falling in a miniature cascade to the one next below, thus +keeping the edges built up by a continual renewal of the silicious +incrustation. But all their beauty could not save them from utter +and irremediable destruction by the forces below the earth's +surface. + +On June 9, 1886, a great volcanic disturbance began in the Auckland +Lake region with a tremendous earthquake, followed during the night +by many others. At seven the next morning a lead-covered cloud of +pumice sand, advancing from the south, burst and discharged showers +of fine dust. The range of Mount Tarawera seemed to be in full +volcanic activity, including some craters supposed to be extinct, +and embracing an area of one hundred and twenty miles by twenty. + +The showers of dust were so thick as to turn day into night for +nearly two days. Some lives were lost, and several villages were +destroyed, these being covered ten feet deep with ashes, dust and +clayey mud. The volcanic phenomena were of the most violent +character, and the whole island appears to have been more or less +convulsed. Mount Tarawera is said to be five hundred feet higher +than before the eruption; glowing masses were thrown up into the +air, and tongues of fiery hue, gases or illuminated vapors, five +hundred feet wide, towered up one thousand feet high. The mountain +was 2,700 feet in height. + + +TARAWERA IN ERUPTION + + +This eruption presented a spectacle of rarely-equalled grandeur. +To travelers and strangers the greatest resultant loss will be the +destruction of those world-famous curiosities, the white and pink +terraces, in the vicinity of Lake Rotomahana and the region of the +famous geysers. The natives have a superstition that the eruption +of the extinct Tarawera was caused by the profanation of foreign +footsteps. It was to them a sacred place, and its crater a +repository for their dead. The first earthquake occurred in this +region. One side of the mountain fell in, and then the eruption +began. The basin of the lake was broken up and disappeared, but +again reappeared as a boiling mud cauldron; craters burst out in +various places, and the beautiful terraces were no more. After the +first day the violence gradually diminished, and in a week had +ceased. Very possibly another lake will be formed, and in time +other terraces; but it is hardly within the range of probability +that the beauty of the lost terraces will ever be paralleled. + +In this eruption, as usual, we find the earthquake preceding the +volcanic outburst. New Zealand, like the Philippines, Java and the +Japanese Islands, is situated over a great earth-fissure or line of +weakness. Subsidence or dislocation from tensile strain of the +crust took place, and the influx of water to new regions of heated +strata may have developed the explosive force. The earthquake and +the volcano worked together here, as they frequently do, +unfortunately in this case destroying one of the most beautiful +scenes on the surface of the globe. + + +THE ANTARCTIC VOLCANOES + + +Much further south, on the frozen shore of Victoria Land in the +Antarctic regions, Sir James Ross, in 1841, sailing in his +discovery ships the Erebus and Terror, discovered two great +volcanic mountains, which he named after those two vessels. Mount +Erebus is continually covered, from top to bottom, with snow and +glaciers. The mountain is about 12,000 feet high, and although the +snow reaches to the very edge of the crater, there rise continually +from the summit immense volumes of volcanic fumes, illuminated by +the glare of glowing lava beneath them. The vapors ascend to an +estimated height of 2,200 feet above the top of the mountain. + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +The Wonderful Hawaiian Craters and Kilauea's Lake of Fire. + + +In the central region of the North Pacific Ocean lies the +archipelago formerly known as the Sandwich Islands, now +collectively designated as Hawaii. The people of the United States +should be specially interested in this island group, for it has +become one of our possessions, an outlying Territory of our growing +Republic, and in making it part of our national domain we have not +alone extended our dominion far over the seas, but have added to +the many marvels of nature within our land one of the chief wonders +of the world, the stupendous Hawaiian volcanoes, before whose +grandeur many of more ancient fame sink into insignificance. + + +THE ISLAND OF HAWAII + + +The Island of Hawaii, the principal island of the group, we may +safely say contains the most enormous volcano of the earth. +Indeed, the whole island, which is 4000 square miles in extent, may +be regarded as of volcanic origin. It contains four volcanic +mountains--Kohola, Hualalia, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. The two last +named are the chief, the former being 13,800 feet, the latter +13,600 feet, above the sea-level. Although their height is so +vast, the ascent to their summits is so gradual that their +circumference at the base is enormous. The bulk of each of them is +reckoned to be equal to two and a half times that of Etna. Some of +the streams of lava which have emanated from them are twenty-six +miles in length by two miles in breadth. + +On the adjoining island of Maui is a still larger volcano, the +mighty Haleakala, long since extinct, but memorable as possessing +the most stupendous crater on the face of the earth. The mountain +itself is over 10,000 feet high, and forms a great dome-like mass +of 90 miles circumference at base. The crater on its summit has a +length of 7 1/2 and a width of 2 1/4 miles, with a total area of +about sixteen square miles. The only approach in dimensions to +this enormous opening exists in the still living crater of Kilauea, +on the flank of Mauna Loa. + + +A VOLCANIC ISLAND GROUP + + +The peaks named are the most apparent remnants of a world-rending +volcanic activity in the remote past, by whose force this whole +Hawaiian island group was lifted up from the depths of the ocean, +here descending some three and a half miles below the surface +level. The coral reefs which abound around the islands are of +comparatively recent formation, and rest upon a substratum of lava +probably ages older, which forms the base of the archipelago. The +islands are volcanic peaks and ridges that have been pushed up +above the surrounding seas by the profound action of the interior +forces of the earth. + +It must not be supposed that this action was a violent +perpendicular thrust upward over a very limited locality, for the +mountains continue to slope at about the same angle under the sea +and for great distances on every side, so that the islands are +really the crests of an extensive elevation, estimated to cover an +area of about 2000 miles in one direction by 150 or 200 miles in +the other. The process was probably a gradual one of up-building, +by means of which the sea receded as the land steadily rose. Some +idea of the mighty forces that have been at work beneath the sea +and above it can be gained by considering the enormous mass of +material now above the sea-level. Thus, the bulk of the island of +Hawaii, the largest of the group, has been estimated by the +Hawaiian Surveyor General as containing 3,600 cubic miles of lava +rock above sea-level. Taking the area of England at 50,000 square +miles, this mass of volcanic matter would cover that entire country +to a depth of 274 feet. We must remember, however, that what is +above sea-level is only a small fraction of the total amount, since +it sweeps down below the waves hundreds of miles on every side. + + +CRATER OF HALEAKALA + + +Of the lava openings on these islands, the extinct one of +Haleakala, as stated, with its twenty-seven miles circumference, is +far the most stupendous. It is easy of access, the mountain sides +leading to it presenting a gentle slope; while the walls of the +crater, in places perpendicular, in others are so sloping that man +and horse can descend them. The pit varies from 1500 to 2000 feet +in depth, its bottom being very irregular from the old lava flows +and the many cinder cones, these still looking as fresh as though +their fires had just gone out. Some of these cones are over 500 +feet high. There is a tradition among the natives that the vast +lava streams which in the past flowed from the crater to the sea +continued to do so in the period of their remote ancestors. They +still, indeed, appear as if recent, though there are to-day no +signs of volcanic activity anywhere on this island. + +In fact, the only volcano now active in the Hawaiian Islands is +Mauna Loa, in the southern section of the Island of Hawaii. A +striking feature of this is that it has two distinct and widely +disconnected craters, one on its summit, the other on its flank, at +a much lower level. The latter is the vast crater of Kilauea, the +largest active crater known on the face of the globe. + + +MISS BIRD IN THE CRATER OF KILAUEA + + +We cannot offer a better description of the aspect of this lava +abyss than to give Miss Bird's eloquent description of her +adventurous descent into it: + +"The abyss, which really is at a height of four thousand feet on +the flank of Mauna Loa, has the appearance of a pit on a rolling +plain. But such a pit! It is quite nine miles in circumference, +and at its lowest area--which not long ago fell about three hundred +feet, just as the ice on a pond falls when the water below is +withdrawn--covers six square miles. The depth of the crater varies +from eight hundred to one thousand feet, according as the molten +sea below is at flood or ebb. Signs of volcanic activity are +present more or less throughout its whole depth and for some +distance along its margin, in the form of steam-cracks, jets of +sulphurous vapor, blowing cones, accumulating deposits of acicular +crystals of sulphur, etc., and the pit itself is constantly rent +and shaken by earthquakes. Great eruptions occur with +circumstances of indescribable terror and dignity; but Kilauea does +not limit its activity to these outbursts, but has exhibited its +marvellous phenomena through all known time in a lake or lakes on +the southern part of the crater three miles from this side. + +"This lake--the Hale-mau-mau, or "House of everlasting Fire", of +the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess Pele--is +approachable with safety, except during an eruption. The +spectacle, however, varies almost daily; and at times the level of +the lava in the pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating +gases are evolved in such enormous quantities, that travellers are +unable to see anything. + +"At the time of our visit there had been no news from it for a +week; and as nothing was to be seen but a very faint bluish vapor +hanging round its margin, the prospect was not encouraging. After +more than an hour of very difficult climbing, we reached the lowest +level of the crater, pretty nearly a mile across, presenting from +above the appearance of a sea at rest; but on crossing it, we found +it to be an expanse of waves and convolutions of ashy-colored lava, +with huge cracks filled up with black iridescent rolls of lava only +a few weeks old. Parts of it are very rough and ridgy, jammed +together like field-ice, or compacted by rolls of lava, which may +have swelled up from beneath; but the largest part of the area +presents the appearance of huge coiled hawsers, the ropy formation +of the lava rendering the illusion almost perfect. These are riven +by deep cracks, which emit hot sulphurous vapors. + +"As we ascended, the flow became hotter under our feet, as well as +more porous and glistening. It was so hot that a shower of rain +hissed as it fell upon it. The crust became increasingly insecure, +and necessitated our walking in single file with the guide in +front, to test the security of the footing. I fell through several +times, and always into holes full of sulphurous steam so +malignantly acid that my strong dogskin gloves were burned through +as I raised myself on my hands. + +"We had followed the lava-flow for thirty miles up to the crater's +brink, and now we had toiled over recent lava for three hours, and, +by all calculations, were close to the pit; yet there was no smoke +or sign of fire, and I felt sure that the volcano had died out for +once for my special disappointment. + +"Suddenly, just above and in front of us, gory drops were tossed in +the air, and springing forwards, we stood on the brink of Hale-mau- +mau, which was about thirty-five feet below us. I think we all +screamed. I know we all wept; but we were speechless, for a new +glory and terror had been added to the earth. It is the most +unutterable of wonderful things. The words of common speech are +quite useless. It is unimaginable, indescribable; a sight to +remember forever; a sight which at once took possession of every +faculty of sense and soul, removing one altogether out of the range +of ordinary life. Here was the real 'bottomless pit', 'the fire +which is not quenched', 'the place of Hell', 'the lake which +burneth with fire and brimstone', 'the everlasting burnings', 'the +fiery sea whose waves are never weary'. Perhaps those Scripture +phrases were suggested by the sight of some volcano in eruption. +There were groanings, rumblings, and detonations; rushings, +hissings, splashings, and the crashing sound of breakers on the +coast; but it was the surging of fiery waves upon a fiery shore. +But what can I write? Such words as jets, fountains, waves, spray, +convey some idea of order and regularity, but here there are none. + +"The inner lake, while we stood there, formed a sort of crater +within itself; the whole lava sea rose about three feet; a blowing +cone about eight feet high was formed; it was never the same two +minutes together. And what we saw had no existence a month before, +and probably will be changed in every essential feature a month +from hence. The prominent object was fire in motion; but the +surface of the double lake was continually skimming over for a +second or two with a cool crust of lustrous grey-white, like frost- +silver, broken by jagged cracks of a bright rose-color. The +movement was nearly always from the sides to the centre; but the +movement of the centre itself appeared independent, and always took +a southerly direction. Before each outburst of agitation there was +much hissing and throbbing, with internal roaring as of imprisoned +gases. Now it seemed furious, demoniacal, as if no power on earth +could bind it, then playful and sportive; then for a second +languid, but only because it was accumulating fresh force. +Sometimes the whole lake took the form of mighty waves, and, +surging heavily against the partial barrier with a sound like the +Pacific surf, lashed, tore, covered it, and threw itself over it in +clots of living fire. It was all confusion, commotion, forces, +terror, glory, majesty, mystery, and even beauty. And the color, +'eye hath not seen' it! Molten metal hath not that crimson gleam, +nor blood that living light." + +To this description we may add that of Mr. Ellis, a former +missionary to these islands, and one of the number who have +descended to the shores of Kilauea's abyss of fire. He says, after +describing his difficult descent and progress over the lava-strewn +pit: + + +MR. ELLIS VISITS THE LAKE OF LAVA + + +"Immediately before us yawned an immense gulf, in the form of a +crescent, about two miles in length, from northeast to southwest; +nearly a mile in width, and apparently 800 feet deep. The bottom +was covered with lava, and the southwestern and northern parts of +it were one vast flood of burning matter in a state of terrific +ebullition, rolling to and fro its 'fiery surges' and flaming +billows. Fifty-one conical islands, of varied form and size, +containing as many craters, rose either round the edge or from the +surface of the burning lake; twenty-two constantly emitted columns +of gray smoke or pyramids of brilliant flame, and several of these +at the same time vomited from their ignited mouths streams of lava, +which rolled in blazing torrents down their black indented sides +into the boiling mass below. + +"The existence of these conical craters led us to conclude that the +boiling cauldron of lava before us did not form the focus of the +volcano; that this mass of melted lava was comparatively shallow, +and that the basin in which it was contained was separated by a +stratum of solid matter from the great volcanic abyss, which +constantly poured out its melted contents through these numerous +craters into this upper reservoir. The sides of the gulf before +us, although composed of different strata of ancient lava, were +perpendicular for about 400 feet, and rose from a wide horizontal +ledge of solid black lava of irregular breadth, but extending +completely round. Beneath this ledge the sides sloped gradually +towards the burning lake, which was, as nearly as we could judge, +300 or 400 feet lower. + +"It was evident that the large crater had been recently filled with +liquid lava up to this black ledge, and had, by some subterraneous +canal, emptied itself into the sea or spread under the low land on +the shore. The gray and in some places apparently calcined sides +of the great crater before us, the fissures which intersected the +surface of the plain on which we were standing, the long banks of +sulphur on the opposite side of the abyss, the vigorous action of +the numerous small craters on its borders, the dense columns of +vapor and smoke that rose at the north and west end of the plain, +together with the ridge of steep rocks by which it was surrounded, +rising probably in some places 300 or 400 feet in perpendicular +height, presented an immense volcanic panorama, the effect of which +was greatly augmented by the constant roaring of the vast furnaces +below." + + +MAUNA LOA IN ERUPTION + + +Of the two great craters of Mauna Loa, the summit one has +frequently in modern times overflowed its crest and poured its +molten streams in glowing rivers over the land. This has rarely +been the case with the lower and incessantly active crater of +Kilauea, whose lava, when in excess, appears to escape by +subterranean channels to the sea. We append descriptions of some +of the more recent examples of Mauna Loa's eruptive energy. The +lava from this crater does not alone flow over the crater's lip, +but at times makes its way through fissures far below, the immense +pressure causing it to spout in great flashing fountains high into +the air. In 1852 the fiery fountains reached a height of 500 feet. +In some later eruptions they have leaped 1,000 feet high. The lava +is white hot as it ascends, but it assumes a blood-red tint in its +fall, and strikes the ground with a frightful noise. + +The quantities of lava ejected in some of the recent eruptions have +been enormous. The river-like flow of 1855 was remarkable for its +extent, being from two to eight miles wide, with a depth of from +three to three hundred feet, and extending in a winding course for +a distance of sixty miles. The Apostle of Hawaiian volcanoes, the +Rev. Titus Coan, who ventured to the source of this flow while it +was in supreme action, thus describes it:-- + +"We ascended our rugged pathway amidst steam and smoke and heat +which almost blinded and scathed us. We came to open orifices down +which we looked into the fiery river which rushed madly under our +feet. These fiery vents were frequent, some of them measuring ten, +twenty, fifty or one hundred feet in diameter. In one place we saw +the river of lava uncovered for thirty rods and rushing down a +declivity of from ten to twenty-five degrees. The scene was awful, +the momentum incredible, the fusion perfect (white heat), and the +velocity forty miles an hour. The banks on each side of the stream +were red-hot, jagged and overhanging. As we viewed it rushing out +from under its ebon counterpane, and in the twinkling of an eye +diving again into its fiery den, it seemed to say, 'Stand off! +Scan me not! I am God's messenger. A work to do. Away!'" + +Later he wrote again:--"The great summit fountain is still playing +with fearful energy, and the devouring stream rushes madly down +toward us. It is now about ten miles distant, and heading directly +for our bay. In a few days we may be called to announce the +painful fact that our beauteous Hilo is no more,--that our lovely, +our inimitable landscape, our emerald bowers, our crescent strand +and our silver bay are blotted out. A fiery sword hangs over us. +A flood of burning ruin approaches us. Devouring fires are near +us. With sure and solemn progress the glowing fusion advances +through the dark forest and the dense jungle in our rear, cutting +down ancient trees of enormous growth and sweeping away all +vegetable life. For months the great summit furnace on Mauna Loa +has been in awful blast. Floods of burning destruction have swept +wildly and widely over the top and down the sides of the mountain. +The wrathful stream has overcome every obstacle, winding its fiery +way from its high source to the bases of the everlasting hills, +spreading in a molten sea over the plains, penetrating the ancient +forests, driving the bellowing herds, the wild goats and the +affrighted birds before its lurid glare, leaving nothing but ebon +blackness and smoldering ruin in its track." + +His anticipation of the burial of Hilo under the mighty flow was +happily not realized. It came to an abrupt halt while seven miles +distant, the checked stream standing in a threatening and rugged +ridge, with rigid, beetling front. + + +THE ERUPTIONS OF 1859 AND 1865 + + +In January, 1859, Mauna Loa was again at its fire-play, throwing up +lava fountains from 800 to 1,000 feet in height. From this great +fiery fountain the lava flowed down in numerous streams, spreading +over a width of five or six miles. One stream, probably formed by +the junction of several smaller, attained a height of from twenty +to twenty-five feet, and a breadth of about an eighth of a mile. +Great stones were thrown up along with the jet of lava, and the +volume of seeming smoke, composed probably of fine volcanic dust, +is said to have risen to the height of 10,000 feet. + +An eruption of still greater violence took place in 1865, +characterized by similar phenomena, particularly the throwing up of +jets of lava. This fiery fountain continued to play without +intermission for twenty days and nights, varying only as respects +the height to which the jet arose, which is said to have ranged +between 100 and 1,000 feet, the mean diameter of the jet being +about 100 feet. This eruption was accompanied by explosions so +loud as to have been heard at a distance of forty miles. + +A cone of about 300 feet in height, and about a mile in +circumference, was accumulated round the orifice whence the jet +ascended. It was composed of solid matters ejected with the lava, +and it continued to glow like a furnace, notwithstanding its +exposure to the air. The current of lava on this occasion flowed +to a distance of thirty-five miles, burning its way through the +forests, and filling the air with smoke and flames from the ignited +timber. The glare from the glowing lava and the burning trees +together was discernible by night at a distance of 200 miles from +the island. + + +THE LAVA FLOW OF 1880 + + +A succeeding great lava flow was that which began on November 6, +1880. Mr. David Hitchcock, who was camping on Mauna Kea at the +time of this outbreak, saw a spectacle that few human eyes have +ever beheld. "We stood," writes he, "on the very edge of that +flowing river of rock. Oh, what a sight it was! Not twenty feet +from us was this immense bed of rock slowly moving forward with +irresistible force, bearing on its surface huge rocks and immense +boulders of tons' weight as water would carry a toy-boat. The +whole front edge was one bright red mass of solid rock incessantly +breaking off from the towering mass and rolling down to the foot of +it, to be again covered by another avalanche of white-hot rocks and +sand. The whole mass at its front edge was from twelve to thirty +feet in height. Along the entire line of its advance it was one +crash of rolling, sliding, tumbling red-hot rock. We could hear no +explosions while we were near the flow, only a tremendous roaring +like ten thousand blast furnaces all at work at once." + +This was the most extensive flow of recent years, and its progress +from the interior plain through the dense forests above Hilo and +out on to the open levels close to the town was startling and +menacing enough. Through the woods especially it was a turbulent, +seething mass that hurled down mammoth trees, and licked up streams +of water, and day and night kept up an unintermitting cannonade of +explosions. The steam and imprisoned gases would burst the +congealing surface with loud detonations that could be heard for +many miles. It was not an infrequent thing for parties to camp out +close to the flow over night. Ordinarily a lava-flow moves +sluggishly and congeals rapidly, so that what seems like hardihood +in the narrating is in reality calm judgment, for it is perfectly +safe to be in the close vicinity of a lava-stream, and even to walk +on its surface as soon as one would be inclined to walk on cooling +iron in a foundry. This notable flow finally ceased within half a +mile of Hilo, where its black form is a perpetual reminder of a +marvellous deliverance from destruction. + + +KILAUEA IN 1840 + + +Kilauea seems never, in historic times, to have filled and +overflowed its vast crater. To do so would need an almost +inconceivable volume of liquid rock material. But it approached +this culmination in 1840, when it became, through its whole extent, +a raging sea of fire. The boiling lava rose in the mighty +mountain-cup to a height of from 500 to 600 feet. Then it forced a +passage through a subterranean cavity twenty-seven miles long, and +reached the sea forty miles distant, in two days. The stream where +it fell into the sea was half a mile wide, and the flow kept up for +three weeks, heating the ocean twenty miles from land. An eye- +witness of this extraordinary flow thus describes it: + +"When the torrent of fire precipitated itself into the ocean, the +scene assumed a character of terrific and indescribable grandeur. +The magnificence of destruction was never more perceptibly +displayed than when these antagonistic elements met in deadly +strife. The mightiest of earth's magazines of fire poured forth +its burning billows to meet the mightiest of oceans. For two score +miles it came rolling, tumbling, swelling forward, an awful agent +of death. Rocks melted like wax in its path; forests crackled and +blazed before its fervent heat; the works of man were to it but as +a scroll in the flames. Imagine Niagara's stream, above the brink +of the Falls, with its dashing, whirling, madly-raging waters +hurrying on to their plunge, instantaneously converted into fire; a +gory-hued river of fused minerals; volumes of hissing steam +arising; some curling upward from ten thousand vents, which give +utterance to as many deep-toned mutterings, and sullen, confined +clamorings; gases detonating and shrieking as they burst from their +hot prison-house; the heavens lurid with flame; the atmosphere dark +and oppressive; the horizon murky with vapors and gleaming with the +reflected contest! + +"Such was the scene as the fiery cataract, leaping a precipice of +fifty feet, poured its flood upon the ocean. The old line of +coast, a mass of compact, indurated lava, whitened, cracked and +fell. The waters recoiled, and sent forth a tempest of spray; they +foamed and dashed around and over the melted rock, they boiled with +the heat, and the roar of the conflicting agencies grew fiercer and +louder. The reports of the exploding gases were distinctly heard +twenty-five miles distant, and were likened to a whole broadside of +heavy artillery. Streaks of the intensest light glanced like +lightning in all directions; the outskirts of the burning lava as +it fell, cooled by the shock, were shivered into millions of +fragments, and scattered by the strong wind in sparkling showers +far into the country. For three successive weeks the volcano +disgorged an uninterrupted burning tide, with scarcely any +diminution, into the ocean. On either side, for twenty miles, the +sea became heated, with such rapidity that, on the second day of +the junction of the lava with the ocean, fishes came ashore dead in +great numbers, at a point fifteen miles distant. Six weeks later, +at the base of the hills, the water continued scalding hot, and +sent forth steam at every wash of the waves." + + +THE SINKING OF KILAUEA'S FIRE-LAKE + + +In 1866 the great crater of Kilauea presented a new and unlooked- +for spectacle in the sinking and vanishing of its great lava lake. +In March of that year the fires in the ancient cauldron totally +disappeared, and the surrounding lava rock sank to a depth of +nearly 600 feet. Mr. Thrum, in a pamphlet on "The Suspended +Activity of Kilauea," says of it: + +"Distant rumbling noises were heard, accompanied by a series of +earthquakes, forty-three in number. With the fourth shock the +brilliancy of New Lake disappeared, and towards 3 A. M. the fires +in Halemaumau disappeared also, leaving the whole crater in +darkness. + +"With the dawn the shocks and noises ceased, and revealed the +changes which Kilauea had undergone in the night. All the high +cliffs surrounding Halemaumau and New Lake, which had become a +prominent feature in the crater, had vanished entirely, and the +molten lava of both lakes had disappeared by some subterranean +passage from the bottom of Halemaumau. There was no material +change in the sunken portion of the crater except a continual +falling in of rocks and debris from its banks as the contraction +from its former intense heat loosened their compactness and sent +them hurling some 200 or 300 feet below, giving forth at times a +boom as of distant thunder, followed by clouds of cinders and ashes +shooting up into the air 100 to 300 feet, proportionate, doubtless, +to the size of the newly fallen mass. + +This remarkable recession of the liquid lava in Halemaumau was +probably due to the opening of some deep subterranean passage +through which the lake of lava made its way unseen to the ocean's +depths. The Rev. Mr. Baker, probably the most adventuresome +explorer of Hawaiian volcanoes, actually descended into that +crumbling pit to a point within what he judged to be fifty feet of +the bottom. But Halemaumau had only taken an intermission, for in +two short months signs of returning life became frequent and +unmistakable, and, in June, culminated in the sudden outbreak of a +lake that has since then steadily increased in activity. + + +THE GODDESS PELE + + +We cannot close this chapter without some reference to the Goddess +Pele, to whom the Hawaiians long imputed the wonder-work of their +volcanic mountains. When there is unusual commotion in Kilauea +myriads of thread-like filaments float in the air and fall upon the +cliffs, making deposits much resembling matted hair. A single +filament over fifteen inches long was picked up on a Hilo veranda, +having sailed in the air a distance of fifty miles. This is the +famous Pele's Hair, being the glass-like product of volcanic fires. +It resembles Prince Rupert's Drops, and the tradition is that +whenever the volcano becomes active it is because Pele, the Goddess +of the crater, emerges from her fiery furnace and shakes her +vitreous locks in anger. + +This fabled being, according to Emerson, in a paper on "The Lesser +Hawaiian Gods," "could at times assume the appearance of a handsome +young woman, as when Kamapauaa, to his cost, was smitten with her +charms when first he saw her with her sisters at Kilauea." +Kamapauaa was a gigantic hog, who "could appear as a handsome young +man, a hog, a fish or a tree." "At other times the innate +character of the fury showed itself, and Pele appeared in her usual +form as an ugly and hateful old hag, with tattered and fire-burnt +garments, scarcely concealing the filth and nakedness of her +person. Her bloodshot eyes and fiendish countenance paralized the +beholder, and her touch turned him to stone. She was a jealous and +vindictive monster, delighting in cruelty, and at the slightest +provocation overwhelming the unoffending victims of her rage in +widespread ruin." + +The superstition regarding the Goddess Pele was thought to have +received a death blow in 1825, when Kapiolani, an Hawaiian princess +and a Christian convert, ascended, with numerous attendants, to the +crater of Kilauea, where she publicly defied the power and wrath of +the goddess. No response came to her defiance, she descended in +safety, and faith in Pele's power was widely shaken. + +Yet as late as 1887 the old superstition revived and claimed an +exalted victim, for in that year the Princess Like Like, the +youngest sister of the king, starved herself to death to appease +the anger of the Goddess Pele, supposed to be manifested in Mauna +Loa's eruption of that year, and to be quieted only by the +sacrifice of a victim of royal blood. Thus slowly do the old +superstitions die away. + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +Popocatapetl and Other Volcanoes of Mexico and Central America. + + +Mexico is very largely a vast table-land, rising through much of +its extent to an elevation of from 7,000 to 8,000 feet above sea- +level, and bounded east and west by wide strips of torrid lowlands +adjoining the oceans. It is crossed at about 19 degrees north +latitude by a range of volcanic mountains, running in almost a +straight line east and west, upon which are several extinct +volcanic cones, and five active or quiescent volcanoes. The +highest of these is Popocatapetl, south of the city of Mexico and +nearly midway between the Atlantic and Pacific. + +East of this mountain lies Orizabo, little below it in height, and +San Martin or Tuxtla, 9,700 feet high, on the coast south of Vera +Cruz. West of it is Jorullo, 4,000 feet, and Colima, 12,800, near +the Pacific coast. The volcanic energy continues southward toward +the Isthmus, but decreases north of this volcanic range. These +mountains have shown little signs of activity in recent times. +Popocatapetl emits smoke, but there is no record of an eruption +since 1540. Orizabo has been quiet since 1566. Tuxtla had a +violent eruption in 1793, but since then has remained quiescent. +Colima is the only one now active. For ten years past it has been +emitting ashes and smoke. The most remarkable of these volcanoes +is Jorullo, which closely resembled Monte Nuovo, described in +Chapter XIII., in its mode of origin. + +Popocatapetl, the hill that smokes, in the Mexican language, the +huge mountain clothed in eternal snows, and regarded by the +idolaters of old as a god, towers up nearly 18,000 feet above the +level of the sea, and in the days of the conquest of Mexico was a +volcano in a state of fierce activity. It was looked upon by the +natives with a strange dread, and they told the white strangers +with awe that no man could attempt to ascend its slopes and yet +live; but, from a feeling of vanity, or the love of adventure, the +Spaniards laughed at these fears, and accordingly a party of ten of +the followers of Cortes commenced the ascent, accompanied by a few +Indians. But these latter, after ascending about 13,000 feet to +where the last remains of stunted vegetation existed, became +alarmed at the subterranean bellowings of the volcano, and +returned, while the Spaniards still painfully toiled on through the +rarefied atmosphere, their feet crushing over the scoriae and +black-glazed volcanic sand, until they stood in the region of +perpetual snow, amidst the glittering, treacherous glaciers and +crevasses, with vast slippery-pathed precipices yawning round. + +Still they toiled on in this wild and wondrous region. A few hours +before they were in a land of perpetual summer; here all was snow. +They suffered the usual distress awarded to those who dare to +ascend to these solitudes of nature but it was not given to them to +achieve the summit, for suddenly, at a higher elevation, after +listening to various ominous threatenings from the interior of the +volcano, they encountered so fierce a storm of smoke, cinders, and +sparks, that they were driven back half suffocated to the lower +portions of the mountain. + +Some time after another attempt was made; and upon this occasion +with a definite object. The invaders had nearly exhausted their +stock of gunpowder, and Cortes organized a party to ascend to the +crater of the volcano, to seek and bring down sulphur for the +manufacture of this necessary of warfare. This time the party +numbered but five, led by one Francisco Montano; and they +experienced no very great difficulty in winning their way upwards. +The region of verdure gave place to the wild, lava-strewn slope, +which was succeeded in its turn by the treacherous glaciers; and at +last the gallant little band stood at the very edge of the crater, +a vast depression of over a league in circumference, and 1,000 feet +in depth. + + +SULPHUR FROM THE CRATER + + +Flame was issuing from the hideous abysses, and the stoutest man's +heart must have quailed as he peered down into the dim, mysterious +cavity to where the sloping sides were crusted with bright yellow +sulphur, and listened to the mutterings which warned him of the +pent-up wrath and power of the mighty volcano. They knew that at +any moment flame and stifling sulphurous vapor might be belched +forth, but now no cowardice was shown. They had come provided with +ropes and baskets, and it only remained to see who should descend. +Lots were therefore drawn, and it fell to Montano, who was +accordingly lowered by his followers in a basket 400 feet into the +treacherous region of eternal fires. + +The basket swayed and the rope quivered and vibrated, but the brave +cavalier sturdily held to his task, disdaining to show fear before +his humble companions. The lurid light from beneath flashed upon +his tanned features, and a sulphurous steam rose slowly and +condensed upon the sides; but, whatever were his thoughts, the +Spaniard collected as much sulphur as he could take up with him, +breaking off the bright incrustations, and even dallying with his +task as if in contempt of the danger, till he had leisurely filed +his basket, when the signal was given and he was drawn up. The +basket was emptied, and then he once more descended into the lurid +crater, collected another store and was again drawn up; but far +from shrinking from his task, he descended again several times, +till a sufficiency had been obtained, with which the party +descended to the plain. + + +THE VOLCANO JORULLO + + +No further back than the middle of the eighteenth century the site +of Jorullo was a level plain, including several highly-cultivated +fields, which formed the farm of Don Pedro di Jorullo. The plain +was watered by two small rivers, called Cuitimba and San Pedro, and +was bounded by mountains composed of basalt--the only indications +of former volcanic action. These fields were well irrigated, and +among the most fertile in the country, producing abundant crops of +sugar-cane and indigo. + +In the month of June, 1759, the cultivators of the farm began to be +disturbed by strange subterranean noises of an alarming kind, +accompanied by frequent shocks of earthquake, which continued for +nearly a couple of months; but they afterward entirely ceased, so +that the inhabitants of the place were lulled into security. On +the night between the 28th and 29th of September, however, the +subterranean noises were renewed with greater loudness than before, +and the ground shook severely. The Indian servants living on the +place started from their beds in terror, and fled to the +neighboring mountains. Thence gazing upon their master's farm they +beheld it, along with a tract of ground measuring between three and +four square miles, in the midst of which it stood, rise up bodily, +as if it had been inflated from beneath like a bladder. At the +edges this tract was uplifted only about 39 feet above the original +surface, but so great was its convexity that toward the middle it +attained a height of no less than 524 feet. + +The Indians who beheld this strange phenomenon declared that they +saw flames issuing from several parts of this elevated tract, that +the entire surface became agitated like a stormy sea, that great +clouds of ashes, illuminated by volcanic fires glowing beneath +them, rose at several points, and that white-hot stones were thrown +to an immense height. Vast chasms were at the same time opened in +the ground, and into these the two small rivers above mentioned +plunged. Their waters, instead of extinguishing the subterranean +conflagration, seemed only to add to its intensity. Quantities of +mud, enveloping balls of basalt, were then thrown up, and the +surface of the elevated ground became studded with small cones, +from which volumes of dense vapor, chiefly steam, were emitted, +some of the jets rising from 20 to 30 feet in height. + +These cones the Indians called ovens, and in many of them was long +heard a subterranean noise resembling that of water briskly +boiling. Out of a great chasm in the midst of those ovens there +were thrown up six larger elevations, the highest being 1,640 feet +above the level of the plain, 4,315 above sea level, and now +constituting the principal volcano of Jorullo. The smallest of the +six was 300 feet in height; the others of intermediate elevation. +The highest of these hills had on its summit a regular volcanic +crater, whence there have been thrown up great quantities of dross +and lava, containing fragments of older rocks. The ashes were +transported to immense distances, some of them having fallen on the +houses at Queretaro, more than forty-eight leagues from Jorullo. +The volcano continued in this energetic state of activity for about +four months; in the following years its eruptions became less +frequent, but it still continues to emit volumes of vapor from the +principal crater, as well as from many of the ovens in the upheaved +ground. + + +EFFECT ON THE RIVERS + + +The two rivers, which disappeared on the first night of this great +eruption, now pursue an underground course for about a mile and a +quarter, and then reappear as hot springs, with a temperature of +126 degrees F. + +This wonderful volcanic upheaval is all the more remarkable, from +the inland situation of the plain on which it occurred, it being no +less than 120 miles distant from the nearest ocean, while there is +no other volcano nearer to it than 80 miles. The activity of the +ovens has now ceased, and portions of the upheaved plain on which +they are situated have again been brought under cultivation, and +the volcano is in a state of quiescence. + +The crater of Popocatapetl, which towers to a height of 17,000 +feet, is a vast circular basin, whose nearly vertical walls are in +some parts of a pale rose tint, in others quite black. The bottom +contains several small fuming cones, whence arise vapors of +changeable color, being successively red, yellow and white. All +round them are large deposits of sulphur, which are worked for +mercantile purposes. + +Orizaba has a little less lofty snow-clad peak. This mountain was +in brisk volcanic activity from 1545 to 1560, but has since then +relapsed into a prolonged repose. It was climbed, in 1856, by +Baron Muller, to whose mind the crater appeared like the entrance +to a lower world of horrible darkness. He was struck with +astonishment on contemplating the tremendous forces required to +elevate and rend such enormous masses--to melt them, and then pile +them up like towers, until by cooling they became consolidated into +their present forms. The internal walls of the crater are in many +places coated with sulphur, and at the bottom are several small +volcanic craters. At the time of his visit the summit was wholly +covered with snow, but the Indians affirmed that hot vapors +occasionally ascend from fissures in the rocks. Since then others +have reached its summit, among them Angelo Heilprin, the first to +gaze into the crater of Mont Pelee after its eruption. + + +ERUPTIONS IN NICARAGUA + + +On the 14th of November, 1867, there commenced an eruption from a +mountain about eight leagues to the eastward of the city of Leon, +in Nicaragua. This mountain does not appear to have been +previously recognized as an active volcano, but it is situated in a +very volcanic country. The outburst had probably some connection +with the earthquake at St. Thomas, which took place on the 18th of +November following. The mountain continued in a state of activity +for about sixteen days. There was thrown out an immense quantity +of black sand, which was carried as far as to the coast of the +Pacific, fifty miles distant. Glowing stones were projected from +the crater to an estimated height of three thousand feet. + +Central America is more prolific of volcanoes than Mexico, and the +State of Guatemala in particular. One authority credits this State +with fifteen or sixteen and another with more than thirty volcanic +cones. Of these at least five are decidedly active. Tajumalco, +which was in eruption at the time of the great earthquake of 1863, +yields great quantities of sulphur, as also does Quesaltenango. +The most famous is the Volcan de Agua (Water Volcano), so called +from its overwhelming the old city of Guatemala with a torrent of +water in 1541. + +Nicaragua is also rich in volcanoes, being traversed its entire +length by a remarkable chain of isolated volcanic cones, several of +which are to some extent active. We have already told the story of +the tremendous eruption of Coseguina in 1835, one of the most +violent of modern times. The latest important eruption here was +that of Ometepec, a volcanic mount on an island of the same name in +Lake Nicaragua. This broke a long period of repose on June 19, +1883, with a severe eruption, in which the lava, pouring from a new +crater, in seven days overflowed the whole island and drove off its +population. Incessant rumblings and earthquake shocks accompanied +the eruption, and mud, ashes, stones and lava covered the mountain +slopes, which had been cultivated for many centuries. These were +the most recent strong displays of volcanic energy in Central +America, though former great outflows of lava are indicated by +great fields of barren rock, which extend for miles. + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +The Terrible Eruption of Krakatoa. + + +The most destructive volcanic explosion of recent times, one +perhaps unequalled in violence in all times, was that of the small +mountain island of Krakatoa, in the East Indian Archipelago, in +1883. This made its effects felt round the entire globe, and +excited such wide attention that we feel called upon to give it a +chapter of its own. + +The island of Krakatoa lies in the Straits of Sunda, between Java +and Sumatra. In size it is insignificant, and had been silent so +long that its volcanic character was almost lost sight of. Of its +early history we know nothing. At some remote time in the past it +may have appeared as a large cone, of some twenty-five miles in +circumference at base and not less than 10,000 feet high. Then, +still in unknown times, its cone was blown away by internal forces, +leaving only a shattered and irregular crater ring. This crater +was two or three miles in diameter, while the highest part of its +walls rose only a few hundred feet above the sea. Later volcanic +work built up a number of small cones within the crater, and still +later a new cone, called Rakata, rose on the edge of the old one to +a height of 2,623 feet. + +The first known event in the history of the island volcano was an +eruption in the year 1680. After that it lay in repose, forming a +group of islands, one much larger than the others. Some of the +smaller islands indicated the rim of the old crater, much of which +was buried under the sea. Its state of quiescence continued for +two centuries, a tropical vegetation richly mantled the island, and +to all appearance it had sunk permanently to rest. + +Indications of a coming change appeared in 1880, in the form of +earthquakes, which shook all the region around. These continued at +intervals for more that two years. Then, on May 20, 1883, there +were heard at Batavia, a hundred miles away, "booming sounds like +the firing of artillery." Next day the captain of a vessel passing +through the Straits saw that Krakatoa was in eruption, sending up +clouds of smoke and showers of dust and pumice. The smoke was +estimated to reach a height of seven miles, while the volcanic dust +drifted to localities 300 miles away. + + +AWFUL PREMONITIONS + + +The mountain continued to play for about fourteen weeks with +varying activity, several parties meanwhile visiting it and making +observations. Such an eruption, in ordinary cases, would have +ultimately died away, with no marked change other than perhaps the +ejection of a stream of lava. But such was not now the case. The +sequel was at once unexpected and terrible. As the island was +uninhabited, no one actually saw what took place, those nearest to +the scene of the eruption having enough to do to save their own +lives, while the dense clouds of vapor and dust baffled +observation. + +The phase of greatest violence set in on Sunday, August 26th. Soon +after midday sailors on passing ships saw that the island had +vanished behind a dense cloud of black vapor, the height of which +was estimated at not less than seventeen miles. At intervals +frightful detonations resounded, and after a time a rain of pumice +began to fall at places ten miles distant. For miles round fierce +flashes of lightning rent the vapor, and at a distance of fully +forty miles ghostly corposants gleamed on the rigging of a vessel. + +These phenomena grew more and more alarming until August 27th, when +four explosions of fearful intensity shook earth and sea and air, +the third being "far the most violent and productive of the most +widespread results." It was, in fact, perhaps the most tremendous +volcanic outburst, in its intensity, known in human history. It +seemed to overcome the obstruction to the energy of the internal +forces, for the eruption now declined, and in a day or two +practically died away, though one or two comparatively +insignificant outbursts took place later. + + +FAR-REACHING DESTRUCTION + + +The eruption spread ruin and death over many surrounding leagues. +At Krakotoa itself, when men once more reached its shores, +everything was found to be changed. About two-thirds of the main +island were blown completely away. The marginal cone was cut +nearly in half vertically, the new cliff falling precipitously +toward the centre of the crater. Where land had been before now +sea existed, in some places more than one hundred feet deep. But +the part of the island that remained had been somewhat increased in +size by ejected materials. + +Of the other islands and islets some had disappeared; some were +partially destroyed; some were enlarged by fallen debris, while +many changes had taken place in the depth of the neighboring sea- +bed. Two new islands, Steers and Calmeyer, were formed. The +ejected pumice, so cavernous in structure as to float upon the +water, at places formed great floating islands which covered the +sea for miles, and sometimes rose from four to seven feet above it, +proving a serious obstacle to navigation. On vessels near by dust +fell to the depth of eighteen inches. The enormous clouds of +volcanic dust which had been flung high into the air darkened the +sky for a great area around. At Batavia, about a hundred miles +from the volcano, it produced an effect not unlike that of a London +fog. This began about seven in the morning of August 27th. Soon +after ten the light had become lurid and yellow, and lamps were +required in the houses; then came a downfall of rain, mingled with +dust, and by about half-past eleven the town was in complete +darkness. It soon after began to lighten, and the rain to +diminish, and about three o'clock it had ceased. + +At Buitenzorg, twenty miles further away, the conditions were +similar, but lasted for a shorter time. In places much farther +away the upper sky presented a strangely murky aspect, and the sun +assumed a green color. Phenomena of this kind were traced over a +broad area of the globe, even as far as the Hawaiian Islands, while +over a yet wider area the sky after sunset was lit up by after- +glows of extraordinary beauty. The height to which the dust was +projected has been calculated from various data, with the result +that 121,500 feet, or nearly 25 miles, is thought to be a probable +maximum estimate, though it may be that occasional fragments of +larger size were shot up to a still greater height. + + +A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION OF THE ERUPTION + + +Another effect, of a distressing character, followed the eruption. +A succession of enormous waves, emanating from Krakatoa, traversed +the sea, and swept the coast bordering the Straits of Sunda with +such force as to destroy many villages on the low-lying shores in +Java, Sumatra and other islands. Some buildings at a height of +fifty feet above sea-level were washed away, and in some places the +water rose higher, in one place reaching the height of 115 feet. +At Telok Betong, in Sumatra, a ship was carried inland a distance +of nearly two miles, and left stranded at a height of thirty feet +above the sea. + +The eruption of Krakatoa seems to have been due to some deep-lying +causes of extraordinary violence, this appearing not only in the +terrible explosion which tore the island to fragments and sent its +remnants as floating dust many miles high into the air, but also +from an internal convulsion that affected many of the volcanoes of +Java, which almost simultaneously broke into violent eruption. We +extract from Dr. Robert Bonney's "Our Earth and its Story" a +description of these closely-related events. + +"The disturbances originated on the island of Krakatoa, with +eruptions of red hot stones and ashes, and by noon next day Semeru, +the largest of the Javanese volcanoes, was reported to be belching +forth flames at an alarming rate. The eruption soon spread to +Gunung Guntur and other mountains, until more than a third of the +forty-five craters of Java were either in activity or seriously +threatening it. + +"Just before dusk a great cloud hung over Gunung Guntur, and the +crater of the volcano began to emit enormous streams of white +sulphurous mud and lava, which were rapidly succeeded by +explosions, followed by tremendous showers of cinders and enormous +fragments of rock, which were hurled high into the air and +scattered in all directions, carrying death and destruction with +them. The overhanging clouds were, moreover, so charged with +electricity that water-spouts added to the horror of the scene. +The eruption continued all Saturday night, and next day a dense +cloud, shot with lurid red, gathered over the Kedang range, +intimating that an eruption had broken out there. + +"This proved to be the case, for soon after streams of lava poured +down the mountain sides into the valleys, sweeping everything +before them. About two o'clock on Monday morning--we are drawing +on the account of an eye-witness--the great cloud suddenly broke +into small sections and vanished. When light came it was seen that +an enormous tract of land, extending from Point Capucin on the +south, and Negery Passoerang on the north and west, to the lowest +point, covering about fifty square miles, had been temporarily +submerged by the 'tidal wave.' Here were situated the villages of +Negery and Negery Babawang. Few of the inhabitants of these places +escaped death. This section of the island was less densely +populated than the other portions, and the loss of life was +comparatively small, although it must have aggregated several +thousands. The waters of Welcome Bay in the Sunda Straits, Pepper +Bay on the east, and the Indian Ocean on the south, had rushed in +and formed a sea of turbulent waves. + + +DETONATIONS HEARD FOR MANY MILES AWAY + + +"On Monday night the volcano of Papandayang was in an active state +of paroxysmal eruption, accompanied by detonations which are said +to have been heard for many miles away. In Sumatra three distinct +columns of flame were seen to rise from a mountain to a vast +height, and its whole surface was soon covered with fiery lava +streams, which spread to great distances on all sides. Stones fell +for miles around, and black fragmentary matter carried into the air +caused total darkness. A whirlwind accompanied the eruption, by +which house-roofs, trees, men, and horses were swept into the air. +The quantity of matter ejected was such as to cover the ground and +the roofs of the houses at Denamo to the depth of several inches. +Suddenly the scene changed. At first it was reported that +Papandayang had been split into seven distinct peaks. This proved +untrue; but in the open seams formed could be seen great balls of +molten matter. From the fissures poured forth clouds of steam and +black lava, which, flowing in steady streams, ran slowly down the +mountain sides, forming beds 200 or 300 feet in extent. At the +entrance to Batavia was a large group of houses extending along the +shore, and occupied by Chinamen. This portion of the city was +entirely destroyed, and not many of the Chinese who lived on the +swampy plains managed to save their lives. They stuck to their +homes till the waves came and washed them away, fearing torrents of +flame and lava more than torrents of water. + +"Of the 3,500 Europeans and Americans in Batavia--which for several +hours was in darkness, owing to the fall of ashes--800 perished at +Anjer. The European and American quarter was first overwhelmed by +rocks, mud and lava from the crater, and then the waters came up +and swallowed the ruins, leaving nothing to mark the site, and +causing the loss of about 200 lives of the inhabitants and those +who sought refuge there." + +The loss of life above mentioned was but a small fraction of the +total loss. All along the coasts of the adjoining large islands +towns and villages were swept away and their inhabitants drowned, +till the total loss was, as nearly as could be estimated, 36,000 +souls. Krakatoa thus surpassed Mont Pelee in its tale of +destruction. These two, indeed, have been the most destructive to +life of known volcanic explosions, since the volcano usually falls +far short of the earthquake in its murderous results. + +The distant effects of this explosion were as remarkable as the +near ones. The concussion of the air reached to an unprecedented +distance and the clouds of floating dust encircled the earth, +producing striking phenomena of which an account is given at the +end of this chapter. + +The rapidity with which the effects of the Krakatoa eruption made +themselves evident in all parts of the earth is perhaps the most +remarkable outcome of this extraordinary event. The floating +pumice reached the harbor of St. Paul on the 22nd of March, 1884, +after having made a voyage of some two hundred and sixty days at a +rate of six-tenths of a mile an hour. Immense quantities of pumice +of a similar description, and believed to have been derived from +the same source, reached Tamatave in Madagascar five months later, +and no doubt much of it long continued to float round the world. + + +SERIES OF ATMOSPHERIC WAVES + + +Another result of the eruption was the series of atmospheric waves, +caused by the disturbance in the atmosphere, which affected the +barometer over the entire world. The velocity with which these +waves traveled has been variously estimated at from 912.09 feet to +1066.29 feet per second. This speed is, of course, very much +inferior to that at which sound travels through the air. Yet, in +three distinct cases, the noise of the Krakatoa explosions was +plainly heard at a distance of at least 2,200 miles, and in one +instance--that recorded from Rodriguez--of nearly 3,000. The sound +travelled to Ceylon, Burmah, Manila, New Guinea and Western +Australia, places, however, within a radius of about 2,000 miles; +out Diego Garcia lies outside that area, and Rodriguez a thousand +miles beyond it. Six days subsequent to the explosion, after the +atmospheric waves had traveled four times round the globe, the +barometer was still affected by them. + +Another result, similar in kind, was the extraordinary +dissemination of the great ocean wave, which in a like manner seems +to have encircled the earth, since high waves, without evident +cause, appeared not only in the Pacific, but at many places on the +Atlantic coast within a few days after the event. They were +observed alike in England and at New York. The writer happened to +be at Atlantic City, on the New Jersey coast, at this time. It was +a period of calm, the winds being at rest, but, unheralded, there +came in an ocean wave of such height as to sweep away the ocean- +front boardwalk and do much other damage. He ascribed this strange +wave at the time to the Krakatoa explosion, and is of the same +opinion still. + +In addition to the account given of this extraordinary volcanic +event, it seems desirable to give Sir Robert S. Ball's description +of it in his recent work, "The Earth's Beginnings." While +repeating to some extent what we have already said, it is worthy, +from its freshness of description and general readability, of a +place here. + + +SIR ROBERT S. BALL'S DESCRIPTION + + +"Until the year 1883 few had ever heard of Krakatoa. It was +unknown to fame, as are hundreds of other gems of glorious +vegetation set in tropical waters. It was not inhabited, but the +natives from the surrounding shores of Sumatra and Java used +occasionally to draw their canoes up on its beach, while they +roamed through the jungle in search of the wild fruits that there +abounded. It was known to the mariner who navigated the Straits of +Sunda, for it was marked on his charts as one of the perils of the +intricate navigation in those waters. It was no doubt recorded +that the locality had been once, or more than once, the seat of an +active volcano. In fact, the island seemed to owe its existence to +some frightful eruption of by-gone days; but for a couple of +centuries there had been no fresh outbreak. It almost seemed as if +Krakatoa might be regarded as a volcano that had become extinct. +In this respect it would only be like many other similar objects +all over the globe, or like the countless extinct volcanoes all +over the moon. + +"As the summer of 1883 advanced the vigor of Krakatoa, which had +sprung into notoriety at the beginning of the year, steadily +increased and the noises became more and more vehement; these were +presently audible on shores ten miles distant, and then twenty +miles distant; and still those noises waxed louder and louder, +until the great thunders of the volcano, now so rapidly developing, +astonished the inhabitants that dwelt over an area at least as +large as Great Britain. And there were other symptoms of the +approaching catastrophe. With each successive convulsion a +quantity of fine dust was projected aloft into the clouds. The +wind could not carry this dust away as rapidly as it was hurled +upward by Krakatoa, and accordingly the atmosphere became heavily +charged with suspended particles. + +"A pall of darkness thus hung over the adjoining seas and islands. +Such was the thickness and density of these atmospheric volumes of +Krakatoa dust that, for a hundred miles around, the darkness of +midnight prevailed at midday. Then the awful tragedy of Krakatoa +took place. Many thousands of the unfortunate inhabitants of the +adjacent shores of Sumatra and Java were destined never to behold +the sun again. They were presently swept away to destruction in an +invasion of the shore by the tremendous waves with which the seas +surrounding Krakatoa were agitated. + +"As the days of August passed by the spasms of Krakatoa waxed more +and more vehement. By the middle of that month the panic was +widespread, for the supreme catastrophe was at hand. On the night +of Sunday, August 26, 1883, the blackness of the dust-clouds, now +much thicker than ever in the Straits of Sunda and adjacent parts +of Sumatra and Java, was only occasionally illumined by lurid +flashes from the volcano. + +"At the town of Batavia, a hundred miles distant, there was no +quiet that night. The houses trembled with subterranean violence, +and the windows rattled as if heavy artillery were being discharged +in the streets. And still these efforts seemed to be only +rehearsing for the supreme display. By ten o'clock on the morning +of Monday, August 27, 1883, the rehearsals were over, and the +performance began. An overture, consisting of two or three +introductory explosions, was succeeded by a frightful convulsion +which tore away a large part of the island of Krakatoa and +scattered it to the winds of heaven. In that final outburst all +records of previous explosions on this earth were completely +broken. + + +AN EXTRAORDINARY NOISE + + +"This supreme effort it was which produced the mightiest noise +that, so far as we can ascertain, has ever been heard on this +globe. It must have been indeed a loud noise which could travel +from Krakatoa to Batavia and preserve its vehemence over so great a +distance; but we should form a very inadequate conception of the +energy of the eruption of Krakatoa if we thought that its sounds +were heard by those merely a hundred miles off. This would be +little indeed compared with what is recorded on testimony which it +is impossible to doubt. + +"Westward from Krakatoa stretches the wide expanse of the Indian +Ocean. On the opposite side from the Straits of Sunda lies the +island of Rodriguez, the distance from Krakatoa being almost three +thousand miles. It has been proved by evidence which cannot be +doubted that the thunders of the great volcano attracted the +attention of an intelligent coast-guard on Rodriguez, who carefully +noted the character of the sounds and the time of their occurrence. +He had heard them just four hours after the actual explosion, for +this is the time the sound occupied on its journey. + + +A CONSTANT WIND + + +"This mighty incident at Krakatoa has taught us other lessons on +the constitution of our atmosphere. We previously knew little, or +I might say almost nothing, as to the conditions prevailing above +the height of ten miles overhead. It was Krakatoa which first gave +us a little information which was greatly wanted. How could we +learn what winds were blowing at a height four times as great as +the loftiest mountain on the earth, and twice as great as the +loftiest altitude to which a balloon has ever soared? No doubt a +straw will show which way the wind blows, but there are no straws +up there. There was nothing to render the winds perceptible until +Krakatoa came to our aid. Krakatoa drove into those winds +prodigious quantities of dust. Hundreds of cubic miles of air were +thus deprived of that invisibility which they had hitherto +maintained. + +"With eyes full of astonishment men watched those vast volumes of +Krakatoa dust on a tremendous journey. Of course, every one knows +the so-called trade-winds on our earth's surface, which blow +steadily in fixed directions, and which are of such service to the +mariner. But there is yet another constant wind. It was first +disclosed by Krakatoa. Before the occurrence of that eruption, no +one had the slightest suspicion that far up aloft, twenty miles +over our heads, a mighty tempest is incessantly hurrying, with a +speed much greater than that of the awful hurricane which once laid +so large a part of Calcutta on the ground and slew so many of its +inhabitants. Fortunately for humanity, this new trade-wind does +not come within less than twenty miles of the earth's surface. We +are thus preserved from the fearful destruction that its +unintermittent blasts would produce, blasts against which no tree +could stand and which would, in ten minutes, do as much damage to a +city as would the most violent earthquake. When this great wind +had become charged with the dust of Krakatoa, then, for the first, +and, I may add, for the only time, it stood revealed to human +vision. Then it was seen that this wind circled round the earth in +the vicinity of the equator, and completed its circuit in about +thirteen days. + + +A VAST CLOUD Of DUST + + +"The dust manufactured by the supreme convulsion was whirled round +the earth in the mighty atmospheric current into which the volcano +discharged it. As the dust-cloud was swept along by this +incomparable hurricane it showed its presence in the most glorious +manner by decking the sun and the moon in hues of unaccustomed +splendor and beauty. The blue color in the sky under ordinary +circumstances is due to particles in the air, and when the ordinary +motes of the sunbeam were reinforced by the introduction of the +myriads of motes produced by Krakatoa even the sun itself sometimes +showed a blue tint. Thus the progress of the great dust-cloud was +traced out by the extraordinary sky effects it produced, and from +the progress of the dust-cloud we inferred the movements of the +invisible air current which carried it along. Nor need it be +thought that the quantity of material projected from Krakatoa +should have been inadequate to produce effects of this world-wide +description. Imagine that the material which was blown to the +winds of heaven by the supreme convulsion of Krakatoa could be all +recovered and swept into one vast heap. Imagine that the heap were +to have its bulk measured by a vessel consisting of a cube one mile +long, one mile broad and one mile deep; it has been estimated that +even this prodigious vessel would have to be filled to the brim at +least ten times before all the products of Krakatoa had been +measured." + +It is not specially to the quantity of material ejected from +Krakatoa that it owes its reputation. Great as it was, it has been +much surpassed. Professor Judd says that the great eruptions of +Papapandayang, in Java, in 1772, of Skaptur Jokull, in Iceland, in +1783, and of Tamboro, in Sumbawa, in 1815, were marked by the +extrusion of much larger quantities of material. The special +feature of the Krakatoa eruption was its extreme violence, which +flung volcanic dust to a height probably never before attained, and +produced sea and air waves of an intensity unparalleled in the +records of volcanic action. Judd thinks this was due to the +situation of the crater, and the possible inflow through fissures +of a great volume of sea water to the interior lava, the result +being the sudden production of an enormous volume of steam. + + +EXTRAORDINARY RED SUNSETS + + +The red sunsets spoken of above were so extraordinary in character +that a fuller description of them seems advisable. A remarkable +fact concerning them is the great rapidity with which they were +disseminated to distant regions of the earth. They appeared around +the entire equatorial zone in a few days after the eruption, this +doubtless being due to the great rapidity with which the volcanic +dust was carried by the upper air current. They were seen at +Rodriguez, 3,000 miles away, on August 28, and within a week in +every part of the torrid zone. From this zone they spread north +and south with less rapidity. Their first appearance in Australia +was on September 15th, and at the Cape of Good Hope on the 20th. +On the latter day they were observed in California and the Southern +United States. They were first seen in England on November 9th. +Elsewhere in Europe and the United States they appeared from +November 20th to 30th. + +The effect lasted in some instances as long as an hour and three- +quarters after sunset. In India the sun and skies assumed a +greenish hue, and there was much curiosity regarding the cause of +the "green sun." Another remarkable phenomenon of this period was +the great prevalence of rain during the succeeding winter. This +probably was due to the same cause; that is, to the fact of the air +being so filled with dust; the prevailing theory in regard to rain +being that the existence of dust in the air is necessary to its +fall. The vapor of the air concentrates into drops around such +minute particles, the result being that where dust is absent rain +cannot fall. + +As regards the sunsets spoken of, there are three similar instances +on record. The first of these was in the year 526, when a dry fog +covered the Roman Empire with a red haze. Nothing further is known +concerning it. The other instances were in the years 1783 and +1831. The former of these has been traced to the great eruption of +Skaptur Jokull in that year. It lasted for several months as a +pale blue haze, and occasioned so much obscurity that the sun was +only visible when twelve degrees above the horizon, and then it had +a blood-red appearance. Violent thunderstorms were associated with +it, thus assimilating it with that of 1883. Alike in 1783 and 1831 +there was a pearly, phosphorescent gleam in the atmosphere, by +which small print could be read at midnight. We know nothing +regarding the meteorological conditions of 1831. + +The red sunsets of 1883 were remarkable for their long persistence. +They were observed in the autumn of 1884 with almost their original +brilliancy, and they were still visible in 1885, being seen at +intervals, as if the dust was then distributed in patches, and +driven about by the winds. In fact, similar sunsets were +occasionally visible for several years afterwards. These may well +have been due to the same cause, when we consider with what extreme +slowness very fine dust makes its way through the air, and how much +it may be affected by the winds. + + +THE RED SUNSETS DESCRIBED + + +One writer describes the appearance of these sunsets in the +following terms: "Immediately after sunset a patch of white light +appeared ten or fifteen degrees above the horizon, and shone for +ten minutes with a pearly lustre. Beneath it a layer of bright red +rested on the horizon, melting upward into orange, and this passed +into yellow light, which spread around the lucid spot. Next the +white light grew of a rosy tint, and soon became an intense rose +hue. A vivid golden oriole yellow strip divided it from the red +fringe below and the rose red above." This description, although +exaggerated, represents the general conditions of the phenomenon. + +On October 20th, 1884, the author observed the sunset effect as +follows: "Immediately after the sun had set, a broad cone of +silvery lustre rested upon a horizon of smoky pink. After fifteen +minutes the white became rose color above and yellowish below, +deepening to lemon color, and finally into reddish tint, while the +rose faded out. The whole cone gradually sank and died away in the +brownish red flush on the horizon, more than an hour after sunset." +The time of duration varied, since, on the succeeding evening, it +lasted only a half-hour. These sunset effects, if we can justly +attribute them all to the Krakatoa eruption, were extraordinary not +alone for their intensity and beauty but for their extended +duration, the influence of this remarkable volcanic outbreak being +visible for several years after the event. + +Though no doubt is entertained concerning the cause of the red +sunset effects of 1783 and 1883, that of 1831 is not so readily +explained, there having been no known volcanic explosion of great +intensity in that year. But in view of the fact that volcanoes +exist in unvisited parts of the earth, some of which may have been +at work unknown to scientific man, this difficulty is not +insuperable. Possibly Mounts Erebus or Terror, the burning +mountains of the Antarctic zone, may, unseen by man, have prepared +for civilized lands this grand spectacular effect of Nature's +doings. + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +Mount Pelee and its Harvest of Death. + + +St. Pierre, the principal city of the French island of Martinique, +in the West Indies, lies for the length of about a mile along the +island coast, with high cliffs hemming it in, its houses climbing +the slope, tier upon tier. At one place where a river breaks +through the cliffs, the city creeps further up towards the +mountains. As seen from the bay, its appearance is picturesque and +charming, with the soft tints of its tiles, the grey of its walls, +the clumps of verdure in its midst, and the wall of green in the +rear. Seen from its streets this beauty disappears, and the chief +attraction of the town is gone. + +Back from the three miles of hills which sweep in an arc round the +town, is the noble Montagne Pelee lying several miles to the north +of the city, a mass of dark rock some four thousand feet high, with +jagged outline, and cleft with gorges and ravines, down which flow +numerous streams, gushing from the crater lake of the great +volcano. + +Though known to be a volcano, it was looked upon as practically +extinct, though as late as August, 1856, it had been in eruption. +No lava at that time came from its crater, but it hurled out great +quantities of ashes and mud, with strong sulphurous odor. Then it +went to rest again, and slept till 1902. + +The people had long ceased to fear it. No one expected that grand +old Mount Pelee, the slumbering (so it was thought) tranquil old +hill, would ever spurt forth fire and death. This was entirely +unlooked for. Mont Pelee was regarded by the natives as a sort of +protector; they had an almost superstitious affection for it. From +the outskirts of the city it rose gradually, its sides grown thick +with rich grass, and dotted here and there with spreading shrubbery +and drooping trees. There was no pleasanter outing for an +afternoon than a journey up the green, velvet-like sides of the +towering mountain and a view of the quaint, picturesque city +slumbering at its base. + + +A PEACEFUL SCENE + + +There were no rocky cliffs, no crags, no protruding boulders. The +mountain was peace itself. It seemed to promise perpetual +protection. The poetic natives relied upon it to keep back storms +from the land and frighten, with its stern brow, the tempests from +the sea. They pointed to it with profoundest pride as one of the +most beautiful mountains in the world. + +Children played in its bowers and arbors; families picnicked there +day after day during the balmy weather; hundreds of tourists +ascended to the summit and looked with pleasure at the beautiful +crystal lake which sparkled and glinted in the sunshine. Mont +Pelee was the place of enjoyment of the people of St. Pierre. I +can hear the placid natives say: "Old Father Pelee is our +protector--not our destroyer." + +Not until two weeks before the eruption did the slumbering mountain +show signs of waking to death and disaster. On the 23d of April it +first displayed symptoms of internal disquiet. A great column of +smoke began to rise from it, and was accompanied from time to time +by showers of ashes and cinders. + +Despite these signals, there was nothing until Monday, May 5th, to +indicate actual danger. On that day a stream of smoking mud and +lava burst through the top of the crater and plunged into the +valley of the River Blanche, overwhelming the Guerin sugar works +and killing twenty-three workmen and the son of the proprietor. +Mr. Guerin's was one of the largest sugar works on the island; its +destruction entailed a heavy loss. The mud which overwhelmed it +followed the beds of streams towards the north of the island. + +The alarm in the city was great, but it was somewhat allayed by the +report of an expert commission appointed by the Governor, which +decided that the eruption was normal and that the city was in no +peril. To further allay the excitement, the Governor, with several +scientists, took up his residence in St. Pierre. He could not +restrain the people by force, but the moral effect of his presence +and the decision of the scientists had a similar disastrous result. + + +A GRAPHIC DESCRIPTION BY A SUFFERER. + + +The existing state of affairs during these few waiting days is so +graphically given in a letter from Mrs. Thomas T. Prentis, wife of +the United States Consul at St. Pierre, to her sister in Melrose, a +suburban city of Boston, that we quote it here: + +"My Dear Sister: This morning the whole population of the city is +on the alert and every eye is directed toward Mont Pelee, an +extinct volcano. Everybody is afraid that the volcano has taken +into its heart to burst forth and destroy the whole island. + +"Fifty years ago Mont Pelee burst forth with terrific force and +destroyed everything within a radius of several miles. For several +days the mountain has been bursting forth in flame and immense +quantities of lava are flowing down its sides. + +"All the inhabitants are going up to see it. There is not a horse +to be had on the island, those belonging to the natives being kept +in readiness to leave at a moment's notice. + +"Last Wednesday, which was April 23d, I was in my room with little +Christine, and we heard three distinct shocks. They were so great +that we supposed at first that there was some one at the door, and +Christine went and found no one there. The first report was very +loud, and the second and third were so great that dishes were +thrown from the shelves and the house was rocked. + +"We can see Mont Pelee from the rear windows of our house, and +although it is fully four miles away, we can hear the roar of the +fire and lava issuing from it. + +"The city is covered with ashes and clouds of smoke have been over +our heads for the last five days. The smell of sulphur is so +strong that horses on the streets stop and snort, and some of them +are obliged to give up, drop in their harness and die from +suffocation. Many of the people are obliged to wear wet +handkerchiefs over their faces to protect them from the fumes of +sulphur. + +"My husband assures me that there is no immediate danger, and when +there is the least particle of danger we will leave the place. +There is an American schooner, the R. F. Morse, in the harbor, and +she will remain here for at least two weeks. If the volcano +becomes very bad we shall embark at once and go out to sea. The +papers in this city are asking if we are going to experience +another earthquake similar to that which struck here some fifty +years ago." + + +THE FATEFUL EIGHTH OF MAY + + +The writer of this letter and her husband, Consul Prentis, trusted +Mont Pelee too long. They perished, with all the inhabitants of +the city, in a deadly flood of fire and ashes that descended on the +devoted place on the fateful morning of Thursday, May 8th. Only +for the few who were rescued from the ships in the harbor there +would be scarcely a living soul to tell that dread story of ruin +and death. The most graphic accounts are those given by rescued +officers of the Roraima, one of the fleet of the Quebec Steamship +Co., trading with the West Indies. This vessel had left the Island +of Dominica for Martinique at midnight of Wednesday, and reached +St. Pierre about 7 o'clock Thursday morning. The greatest +difficulty was experienced in getting into port, the air being +thick with falling ashes and the darkness intense. The ship had to +grope its way to the anchorage. Appalling sounds were issuing from +the mountain behind the town, which was shrouded in darkness. The +ashes were falling thickly on the steamer's deck, where the +passengers and others were gazing at the town, some being engaged +in photographing the scene. + +The best way in which we can describe a scene of which few lived to +tell the story, is to give the narratives of a number of the +survivors. From their several stories a coherent idea of the +terrible scene can be formed. From the various accounts given of +the terrible explosion by officers of the Roraima, we select as a +first example the following description by Assistant Purser +Thompson: + + +A TALE OF SUDDEN RUIN + + +"I saw St. Pierre destroyed. It was blotted out by one great flash +of fire. Nearly 40,000 persons were all killed at once. Out of +eighteen vessels lying in the roads only one, the British steamship +Roddam, escaped, and she, I hear, lost more than half on board. It +was a dying crew that took her out. + +"Our boat, the Roraima, of the Quebec Line, arrived at St. Pierre +early Thursday morning. For hours before we entered the roadstead +we could see flames and smoke rising from Mont Pelee. No one on +board had any idea of danger. Captain G. T. Muggah was on the +bridge, and all hands got on deck to see the show. + +"The spectacle was magnificent. As we approached St. Pierre we +could distinguish the rolling and leaping of the red flames that +belched from the mountain in huge volumes and gushed high in to the +sky. Enormous clouds of black smoke hung over the volcano. + +"When we anchored at St. Pierre I noticed the cable steamship +Grappler, the Roddam, three or four American schooners and a number +of Italian and Norwegian barks. The flames were then spurting +straight up in the air, now and then waving to one side or the +other for a moment and again leaping suddenly higher up. + +"There was a constant muffled roar. It was like the biggest oil +refinery in the world burning up on the mountain top. There was a +tremendous explosion about 7.45 o'clock, soon after we got in. The +mountain was blown to pieces. There was no warning. The side of +the volcano was ripped out, and there was hurled straight toward us +a solid wall of flame. It sounded like thousands of cannon. + +"The wave of fire was on us and over us like a lightning flash. It +was like a hurricane of fire. I saw it strike the cable steamship +Grappler broadside on and capsize her. From end to end she burst +into flames and then sank. The fire rolled in mass straight down +upon St. Pierre and the shipping. The town vanished before our +eyes and the air grew stifling hot, and we were in the thick of it. + +"Wherever the mass of fire struck the sea the water boiled and sent +up vast clouds of steam. The sea was torn into huge whirlpools +that careened toward the open sea. + +"One of these horrible hot whirlpools swung under the Roraima and +pulled her down on her beam ends with the suction. She careened +way over to port, and then the fire hurricane from the volcano +smashed her, and over she went on the opposite side. The fire wave +swept off the masts and smokestack as if they were cut with a +knife. + + +HEAT CAUSED EXPLOSIONS + + +"Captain Muggah was the only one on deck not killed outright. He +was caught by the fire wave and terribly burned. He yelled to get +up the anchor, but, before two fathoms were heaved in the Roraima +was almost upset by the boiling whirlpool, and the fire wave had +thrown her down on her beam ends to starboard. Captain Muggah was +overcome by the flames. He fell unconscious from the bridge and +toppled overboard. + +"The blast of fire from the volcano lasted only a few minutes. It +shriveled and set fire to everything it touched. Thousands of +casks of rum were stored in St. Pierre, and these were exploded by +the terrific heat. The burning rum ran in streams down every +street and out to the sea. This blazing rum set fire to the +Roraima several times. Before the volcano burst the landings of +St. Pierre were crowded with people. After the explosion not one +living being was seen on land. Only twenty-five of those on the +Roraima out of sixty-eight were left after the first flash. + +"The French cruiser Suchet came in and took us off at 2 P. M. She +remained nearby, helping all she could, until 5 o'clock, then went +to Fort de France with all the people she had rescued. At that +time it looked as if the entire north end of the island was on +fire." + +C. C. Evans, of Montreal, and John G. Morris, of New York, who were +among those rescued, say the vessel arrived at 6 o'clock. As eight +bells were struck a frightful explosion was heard up the mountain. +A cloud of fire, toppling and roaring, swept with lightning speed +down the mountain side and over the town and bay. The Roraima was +nearly sunk, and caught fire at once. + +"I can never forget the horrid, fiery, choking whirlwind which +enveloped me," said Mr. Evans. "Mr. Morris and I rushed below. We +are not very badly burned, not so bad as most of them. When the +fire came we were going to our posts (we are engineers) to weigh +anchor and get out. When we came up we found the ship afire aft, +and fought it forward until 3 o'clock, when the Suchet came to our +rescue. We were then building a raft." + +"Ben" Benson, the carpenter of the Roraima, said: "I was on deck, +amidships, when I heard an explosion. The captain ordered me to up +anchor. I got to the windlass, but when the fire came I went into +the forecastle and got my 'duds.' When I came out I talked with +Captain Muggah, Mr. Scott, the first officer and others. They had +been on the bridge. The captain was horribly burned. He had +inhaled flames and wanted to jump into the sea. I tried to make +him take a life-preserver. The captain, who was undressed, jumped +overboard and hung on to a line for a while. Then he disappeared." + + +THE COOPER'S STORY. + + +James Taylor, a cooper employed on the Roraima, gives the following +account of his experience of the disaster: + +"Hearing a tremendous report and seeing the ashes falling thicker, +I dived into a room, dragging with me Samuel Thomas, a gangway man +and fellow countryman, shutting the door tightly. Shortly after I +heard a voice, which I recognized as that of the chief mate, Mr. +Scott. Opening the door with great caution, I drew him in. The +nose of Thomas was burned by the intense heat. + +"We three and Thompson, the assistant purser, out of sixty-eight +souls on board, were the only persons who escaped practically +uninjured. The heat being unbearable, I emerged in a few moments, +and the scene that presented itself to my eyes baffles description. +All around on the deck were the dead and dying covered with boiling +mud. There they lay, men, women and little children, and the +appeals of the latter for water were heart-rending. When water was +given them they could not swallow it, owing to their throats being +filled with ashes or burnt with the heated air. + +"The ship was burning aft, and I jumped overboard, the sea being +intensely hot. I was at once swept seaward by a tidal wave, but, +the sea receding a considerable distance, the return wave washed me +against an upturned sloop to which I clung. I was joined by a man +so dreadfully burned and disfigured as to be unrecognizable. +Afterwards I found he was the captain of the Roraima, Captain +Muggah. He was in dreadful agony, begging piteously to be put on +board his ship. + +"Picking up some wreckage which contained bedding and a tool chest, +I, with the help of five others who had joined me on the wreck, +constructed a rude raft, on which we placed the captain. Then, +seeing an upturned boat, I asked one of the five, a native of +Martinique, to swim and fetch it. Instead of returning to us, he +picked up two of his countrymen and went away in the direction of +Fort de France. Seeing the Roddam, which arrived in port shortly +after we anchored, making for the Roraima, I said good-bye to the +captain and swam back to the Roraima. + +"The Roddam, however, burst into flames and put to sea. I reached +the Roraima at about half-past 2, and was afterwards taken off by a +boat from the French warship Suchet. Twenty-four others with +myself were taken on to Fort de France. Three of these died before +reaching port. A number of others have since died." + +Samuel Thomas, the gangway man, whose life was saved by the +forethought of Taylor, says that the scene on the burning ship was +awful. The groans and cries of the dying, for whom nothing could +be done, were horrible. He describes a woman as being burned to +death with a living babe in her arms. He says that it seemed as if +the whole world was afire. + + +CONSUL AYME'S STATEMENT + + +The inflammable material in the forepart of the ship that would +have ignited that part of the vessel was thrown overboard by him +and the other two uninjured men. The Grappler, the telegraph +company's ship, was seen opposite the Usine Guerin, and disappeared +as if blown up by a submarine explosion. The captain's body was +subsequently found by a boat from the Suchet. + +Consul Ayme, of Guadeloupe, who, as already stated, had hastened to +Fort de France on hearing of the terrible event, tells the story of +the disaster in the following words: + +"Thursday morning the inhabitants of the city awoke to find heavy +clouds shrouding Mont Pelee crater. All day Wednesday horrid +detonations had been heard. These were echoed from St. Thomas on +the north to Barbados on the south. The cannonading ceased on +Wednesday night, and fine ashes fell like rain on St. Pierre. The +inhabitants were alarmed, but Governor Mouttet, who had arrived at +St. Pierre the evening before, did everything possible to allay the +panic. + +"The British steamer Roraima reached St. Pierre on Thursday with +ten passengers, among whom were Mrs. Stokes and her three children, +and Mrs. H. J. Ince. They were watching the rain of ashes, when, +with a frightful roar and terrific electric discharges, a cyclone +of fire, mud and steam swept down from the crater over the town and +bay, sweeping all before it and destroying the fleet of vessels at +anchor off the shore. There the accounts of the catastrophe so far +obtainable cease. Thirty thousand corpses are strewn about, buried +in the ruins of St. Pierre, or else floating, gnawed by sharks, in +the surrounding seas. Twenty-eight charred, half-dead human beings +were brought here. Sixteen of them are already dead, and only four +of the whole number are expected to recover." + + +A WOMAN'S EXPERIENCE ON THE "RORAIMA" + + +Margaret Stokes, the 9 year old daughter of the late Clement +Stokes, of New York, who, with her mother, a brother aged 4 and a +sister aged 3 years, was on the ill-fated steamer Roraima, was +saved from that vessel, but is not expected to live. Her nurse, +Clara King, tells the following story of her experience: + +She says she was in her stateroom, when the steward of the Roraima +called out to her: + +"Look at Mont Pelee." + +She went on deck and saw a vast mass of black cloud coming down +from the volcano. The steward ordered her to return to the saloon, +saying, "It is coming." + +Miss King then rushed to the saloon. She says she experienced a +feeling of suffocation, which was followed by intense heat. The +afterpart of the Roraima broke out in flames. Ben Benson, the +carpenter of the Roraima, severely burned, assisted Miss King and +Margaret Stokes to escape. With the help of Mr. Scott, the first +mate of the Roraima, he constructed a raft, with life preservers. +Upon this Miss King and Margaret were placed. + +While this was being done Margaret's little brother died. Mate +Scott brought the child water at great personal danger, but it was +unavailing. Shortly after the death of the little boy Mrs. Stokes +succumbed. Margaret and Miss King eventually got away on the raft, +and were picked up by the steamer Korona. Mate Scott also escaped. +Miss King did not sustain serious injuries. She covered the face +of Margaret with her dress, but still the child was probably +fatally burned. + +The only woman known at that time to have survived the disaster at +St. Pierre was a negress named Fillotte. She was found in a cellar +Saturday afternoon, where she had been for three days. She was +still alive, but fearfully burned from head to toes. She died +afterward in the hospital. + + +CAPTAIN FREEMAN'S THRILLING ACCOUNT + + +Of the vessels in the harbor of St. Pierre on the fateful morning, +only one, the British steamer Roddam, escaped, and that with a crew +of whom few reached the open sea alive. Those who did escape were +terribly injured. Captain Freeman, of this vessel, tells what he +experienced in the following thrilling language: + +"St. Lucia, British West Indies, May 11.--The steamer Roddam, of +which I am captain, left St. Lucia at midnight of May 7, and was +off St. Pierre, Martinique, at 6 o'clock on the morning of the 8th. +I noticed that the volcano, Mont Pelee, was smoking, and crept +slowly in toward the bay, finding there among others the steamer +Roraima, the telegraph repairing steamer Grappler and four sailing +vessels. I went to anchorage between 7 and 8 and had hardly moored +when the side of the volcano opened out with a terrible explosion. +A wall of fire swept over the town and the bay. The Roddam was +struck broadside by the burning mass. The shock to the ship was +terrible, nearly capsizing her. + + +AWFUL RESULTS + + +"Hearing the awful report of the explosion and seeing the great +wall of flames approaching the steamer, those on deck sought +shelter wherever it was possible, jumping into the cabin, the +forecastle and even into the hold. I was in the chart room, but +the burning embers were borne by so swift a movement of the air +that they were swept in through the door and port holes, +suffocating and scorching me badly. I was terribly burned by these +embers about the face and hands, but managed to reach the deck. +Then, as soon as it was possible, I mustered the few survivors who +seemed able to move, ordered them to slip the anchor, leaped for +the bridge and ran the engine for full speed astern. The second +and the third engineer and a fireman were on watch below and so +escaped injury. They did their part in the attempt to escape, but +the men on deck could not work the steering gear because it was +jammed by the debris from the volcano. We accordingly went ahead +and astern until the gear was free, but in this running backward +and forward it was two hours after the first shock before we were +clear of the bay. + +"One of the most terrifying conditions was that, the atmosphere +being charged with ashes, it was totally dark. The sun was +completely obscured, and the air was only illuminated by the flames +from the volcano and those of the burning town and shipping. It +seems small to say that the scene was terrifying in the extreme. +As we backed out we passed close to the Roraima, which was one mass +of blaze. The steam was rushing from the engine room, and the +screams of those on board were terrible to hear. The cries for +help were all in vain, for I could do nothing but save my own ship. +When I last saw the Roraima she was settling down by the stern. +That was about 10 o'clock in the morning. + +"When the Roddam was safely out of the harbor of St. Pierre, with +its desolations and horrors, I made for St. Lucia. Arriving there, +and when the ship was safe, I mustered the survivors as well as I +was able and searched for the dead and injured. Some I found in +the saloon where they had vainly sought for safety, but the cabins +were full of burning embers that had blown in through the port +holes. Through these the fire swept as through funnels and burned +the victims where they lay or stood, leaving a circular imprint of +scorched and burned flesh. I brought ten on deck who were thus +burned; two of them were dead, the others survived, although in a +dreadful state of torture from their burns. Their screams of agony +were heartrending. Out of a total of twenty-three on board the +Roddam, which includes the captain and the crew, ten are dead and +several are in the hospital. My first and second mates, my chief +engineer and my supercargo, Campbell by name, were killed. The +ship was covered from stem to stern with tons of powdered lava, +which retained its heat for hours after it had fallen. In many +cases it was practically incandescent, and to move about the deck +in this burning mass was not only difficult but absolutely +perilous. I am only now able to begin thoroughly to clear and +search the ship for any damage done by this volcanic rain, and to +see if there are any corpses in out-of-the-way places. For +instance, this morning, I found one body in the peak of the +forecastle. The body was horribly burned and the sailor had +evidently crept in there in his agony to die. + +"On the arrival of the Roddam at St. Lucia the ship presented an +appalling appearance. Dead and calcined bodies lay about the deck, +which was also crowded with injured helpless and suffering people. +Prompt assistance was rendered to the injured by the authorities +here and my poor, tortured men were taken to the hospital. The +dead were buried. I have omitted to mention that out of twenty-one +black laborers that I brought from Grenada to help in stevedoring, +only six survived. Most of the others threw themselves overboard +to escape a dreadful fate, but they met a worse one, for it is an +actual fact that the water around the ship was literally at a +boiling heat. The escape of my vessel was miraculous. The +woodwork of the cabins and bridge and everything inflammable on +deck were constantly igniting, and it was with great difficulty +that we few survivors managed to keep the flames down. My ropes, +awnings, tarpaulins were completely burned up. + +"I witnessed the entire destruction of St. Pierre. The flames +enveloped the town in every quarter with such rapidity that it was +impossible that any person could be saved. As I have said, the day +was suddenly turned to night, but I could distinguish by the light +of the burning town people distractedly running about on the beach. +The burning buildings stood out from the surrounding darkness like +black shadows. All this time the mountain was roaring and shaking, +and in the intervals between these terrifying sounds I could hear +the cries of despair and agony from the thousands who were +perishing. These cries added to the terror of the scene, but it is +impossible to describe its horror or the dreadful sensations it +produced. It was like witnessing the end of the world. + +"Let me add that, after the first shock was over, the survivors of +the crew rendered willing help to navigate the ship to this port. +Mr. Plissoneau, our agent in Martinique, happening to be on board, +was saved, and I really believe that he is the only survivor of St. +Pierre. As it is, he is seriously burned on the hands and face. + +"FREEMAN, + +"Master British Steamship Roddam." + + +THE "ETONA" PASSES ST. PIERRE + + +The British steamer Etona, of the Norton Line, stopped at St. Lucia +to coal on May 10th. Captain Cantell there visited the Roddam and +had an interview with Captain Freeman. On the 11th the Elona put +to sea again, passing St. Pierre in the afternoon. We subjoin her +captain's story: + +"The weather was clear and we had a fine view, but the old outlines +of St. Pierre were not recognizable. Everything was a mass of blue +lava, and the formation of the land itself seemed to have changed. +When we were about eight miles off the northern end of the island +Mount Pelee began to belch a second time. Clouds of smoke and lava +shot into the air and spread over all the sea, darkening the sun. +Our decks in a few minutes were covered with a substance that +looked like sand dyed a bluish tint, and which smelled like +phosphorus. For all that the day was clear, there was little to be +seen satisfactorily. Over the island there hung a blue haze. It +seemed to me that the formation, the topography, of the island was +altered. + +"Everything seemed to be covered with a blue dust, such as had +fallen aboard us every day since we had been within the affected +region. It was blue lava dust. For more than an hour we scanned +the coast with our glasses, now and then discovering something that +looked like a ruined hamlet or collection of buildings. There was +no life visible. Suddenly we realized that we might have to fight +for our lives as the Roddam's people had done. + +"We were about four miles off the northern end of the island when +suddenly there shot up in the air to a tremendous height a column +of smoke. The sky darkened and the smoke seemed to swirl down upon +us. In fact, it spread all around, darkening the atmosphere as far +as we could see. I called Chief Engineer Farrish to the deck. + +"'Do you see that over there?' I asked, pointing to the eruption, +for it was the second eruption of Mont Pelee. He saw it all right. +Captain Freeman's story was fresh in my mind. + +"'Well, Farrish, rush your engines as they have never been rushed +before,' I said to him. He went below, and soon we began to burn +coal and pile up the feathers in our forefoot. + +"I was on watch with Second Officer Gibbs. At once we began to +furl awnings and make secure against fire. The crew were all +showing an anxious spirit, and everybody on board, including the +four passengers, were serious and apprehensive. + +"We began to cut through the water at almost twelve knots. +Ordinarily we make ten knots. We could see no more of the land +contour, but everything seemed to be enveloped in a great cloud. +There was no fire visible, but the lava dust rained down upon us +steadily. In less than an hour there were two inches of it upon +our deck. + +"The air smelled like phosphorus. No one dared to look up to try +to locate the sun, because one's eyes would fill with lava dust. +Some of the blue lava dust is sticking to our mast yet, although we +have swabbed decks and rigging again and again to be clear of it. + +"After a little more than an hour's fast running we saw daylight +ahead and began to breathe easier. If I had not talked with +Captain Freeman and heard from him just how the black swirl of wind +and fire rolled down upon him, I would not have been so +apprehensive, but would have thought that the darkness and cloud +that came down upon us meant just an unusually heavy squall." + + +CHIEF ENGINEER FARRISH'S STORY + + +"The Etona's run from Montevideo was a fast one--I think a record +breaker. We were 22 days and 21 hours from port to port. Off +Martinique I stared at the coast for about an hour, and then went +below. The blue lava that covered everything faded into the haze +that hung over the island so that nothing was distinctly visible. +Through my glass I discovered a stream of lava, though. It +stretched down the mountain side, and seemed to be flowing into the +sea. It was not clearly and distinctly visible, however. + +"About 3 o'clock I went below to take forty winks. I had been in +my berth only a few minutes when the steward told me the captain +wanted me on the bridge. + +"'Do you see that, Farrish?' he asked, pointing at the land. An +outburst of smoke seemed to be sweeping down upon us. It made me +think of the Roddam's experience. Smoke and dust closed in about +us, shutting out the sunlight, and precipitating a fall of lava on +our decks. + +"'Go below and drive her,' said the captain, and I didn't lose any +time, I can tell you. We burned coal as though it didn't cost a +cent. The safety valve was jumping every second, even though we +were making twelve knots an hour. For two hours we kept up the +pace, and then, running into clear daylight, let the engines slow +down and we all cheered up a bit." + + +CAPTAIN CANTELL VISITS THE "RODDAM" + + +Captain Cantell went on board the Roddam, whose frightful condition +he thus describes: + +"At St. Lucia, on May 11th, I went on board the British steamship +Roddam, which had escaped from the terrible volcanic eruption at +Martinique two days before. The state of the ship was enough to +show that those on board must have undergone an awful experience. + +"The Roddam was covered with a mass of fine bluish gray dust or +ashes of cement-like appearance. In some parts it lay two feet +deep on the decks. This matter had fallen in a red-hot state all +over the steamer, setting fire to everything it struck that was +burnable, and, when it fell on the men on board, burning off limbs +and large pieces of flesh. This was shown by finding portions of +human flesh when the decks were cleared of the debris. The +rigging, ropes, tarpaulins, sails, awnings, etc., were charred or +burned, and most of the upper stanchions and spars were swept +overboard or destroyed by fire. Skylights were smashed and cabins +were filled with volcanic dust. The scene of ruin was deplorable. + +"The captain, though suffering the greatest agony, succeeded in +navigating his vessel safely to the port of Castries, St. Lucia, +with eighteen dead bodies on the deck and human limbs scattered +about. A sailor stood by constantly wiping the captain's injured +eyes. + +"I think the performance of the Roddam's captain was most +wonderful, and the more so when I saw his pitiful condition. I do +not understand how he kept up, yet when the steamer arrived at St. +Lucia and medical assistance was procured, this brave man asked the +doctors to attend to the others first and refused to be treated +until this was done. + +"My interview with the captain brought out this account. I left +him in good spirits and receiving every comfort. The sight of his +face would frighten anyone not prepared to see it." + + +THE VIVID ACCOUNT OF M. ALBERT + + +To the accounts given by the survivors of the Roraima and the +officers of the Etona, it will be well to add the following graphic +story told by M. Albert, a planter of the island, the owner of an +estate situated only a mile to the northeast of the burning crater +of Mont Pelee. His escape from death had in it something of the +marvellous. He says: + +"Mont Pelee had given warning of the destruction that was to come, +but we, who had looked upon the volcano as harmless, did not +believe that it would do more than spout fire and steam, as it had +done on other occasions. It was a little before eight o'clock on +the morning of May 8 that the end came. I was in one of the fields +of my estate when the ground trembled under my feet, not as it does +when the earth quakes, but as though a terrible struggle was going +on within the mountain. A terror came upon me, but I could not +explain my fear. + +"As I stood still Mont Pelee seemed to shudder, and a moaning sound +issued from its crater. It was quite dark, the sun being obscured +by ashes and fine volcanic dust. The air was dead about me, so +dead that the floating dust seemingly was not disturbed. Then +there was a rending, crashing, grinding noise, which I can only +describe as sounding as though every bit of machinery in the world +had suddenly broken down. It was deafening, and the flash of light +that accompanied it was blinding, more so than any lightning I have +ever seen. + +"It was like a terrible hurricane, and where a fraction of a second +before there had been a perfect calm, I felt myself drawn into a +vortex and I had to brace myself firmly. It was like a great +express train rushing by, and I was drawn by its force. The +mysterious force levelled a row of strong trees, tearing them up by +the roots and leaving bare a space of ground fifteen yards wide and +more than one hundred yards long. Transfixed I stood, not knowing +in what direction to flee. I looked toward Mont Pelee, and above +its apex there appeared a great black cloud which reached high in +the air. It literally fell upon the city of St. Pierre. It moved +with a rapidity that made it impossible for anything to escape it. +From the cloud came explosions that sounded as though all of the +navies of the world were in titanic combat. Lightning played in +and out in broad forks, the result being that intense darkness was +followed by light that seemed to be of magnifying power. + +"That St. Pierre was doomed I knew, but I was prevented from seeing +the destruction by a spur of the hill that shut off the view of the +city. It is impossible for me to tell how long I stood there +inert. Probably it was only a few seconds, but so vivid were my +impressions that it now seems as though I stood as a spectator for +many minutes. When I recovered possession of my senses I ran to my +house and collected the members of the family, all of whom were +panic stricken. I hurried them to the seashore, where we boarded a +small steamship, in which we made the trip in safety to Fort de +France. + +"I know that there was no flame in the first wave that was sent +down upon St. Pierre. It was a heavy gas, like firedamp, and it +must have asphyxiated the inhabitants before they were touched by +the fire, which quickly followed. As we drew out to sea in the +small steamship, Mont Pelee was in the throes of a terrible +convulsion. New craters seemed to be opening all about the summit +and lava was flowing in broad streams in every direction. My +estate was ruined while we were still in sight of it. Many women +who lived in St. Pierre escaped only to know that they were left +widowed and childless. This is because many of the wealthier men +sent their wives away, while they remained in St. Pierre to attend +to their business affairs." + + +WHAT HAPPENED ON THE "HORACE" + + +The British steamer Horace experienced the effect of the explosion +when farther from land. After touching at Barbados, she reached +the vicinity of Martinique on May 9th, her decks being covered with +several inches of dust when she was a hundred and twenty-five miles +distant. We quote engineer Anderson's story: + +"On the afternoon of May 8 (Thursday) we noticed a peculiar haze in +the direction of Martinique. The air seemed heavy and oppressive. +The weather conditions were not at all unlike those which precede +the great West Indian hurricanes, but, knowing it was not the +season of the year for them, we all remarked in the engine room +that there must be a heavy storm approaching. + +"Several of the sailors, experienced deep water seamen, laughed at +our prognostications, and informed us there would be no storm +within the next sixty hours, and insisted that, according to all +fo'cas'le indications, a dead calm was in sight. + +"So unusually peculiar were the weather conditions that we talked +of nothing else during the evening. That night, in the direction +of Martinique, there was a very black sky, an unusual thing at this +season of the year, and a storm was apparently brewing in a +direction from which storms do not come at this season. + + +GREAT FLASHES OF LIGHT + + +"As the night wore on those on watch noticed what appeared to be +great flashes of lightning in the direction of Martinique. It +seemed as though the ordinary conditions were reversed, and even +the fo'cas'le prophets were unable to offer explanations. + +"Occasionally, over the pounding of the engines and the rush of +water, we thought we could hear long, deep roars, not unlike the +ending of a deep peal of thunder. Several times we heard the +rumble or roar, but at the time we were not certain as to exactly +what it was, or even whether we really heard it. + +"There would suddenly come great flashes of light from the dark +bank toward Martinique. Some of them seemed to spread over a great +area, while others appeared to spout skyward, funnel shaped. All +night this continued, and it was not until day came that the +flashes disappeared. The dark bank that covered the horizon toward +Martinique, however, did not fade away with the breaking of day, +and at eight in the morning of the 9th (Friday) the whole section +of the sky in that direction seemed dark and troubled. + +"About nine o'clock Friday morning I was sitting on one of the +hatches aft with some of the other engineers and officers of the +ship, discussing the peculiar weather phenomena. I noticed a sort +of grit that got into my mouth from the end of the cigar I was +smoking. + +"I attributed it to some rather bad coal which we had shipped +aboard, and, turning to Chief Engineer Evans, I remarked that 'that +coal was mighty dirty,' and he said that it was covering the ship +with a sort of grit. Then I noticed that grit was getting on my +clothes, and finally some one suggested that we go forward of the +funnels, so we would not get dirt on us. As we went forward we met +one or two of the sailors from the forecastle, who wanted to know +about the dust that was falling on the ship. Then we found that +the grayish-looking ash was sifting all over the ship, both forward +and aft. + + +ASHES RAINED ON THE SHIP + + +"Every moment the ashes rained down all over the ship, and at the +same time grew thicker. A few moments later, the lookout called +down that we were running into a fog-bank dead ahead. Fog banks in +that section are unheard of at nine o'clock in the morning at this +season, and we were more than a hundred miles from land, and what +could fog and sand be doing there. + +"Before we knew it, we went into the fog, which proved to be a big +dense bank of this same sand, and it rained down on us from every +side. Ventilators were quickly brought to their places, and later +even the hatches were battened down. The dust became suffocating, +and the men at times had all they could do to keep from choking. +What the stuff was we could not at first conjecture, or rather, we +didn't have much time to speculate on it, for we had to get our +ship in shape to withstand we hardly knew what. + +"At first we thought that the sand must have been blown from shore. +Then we decided that if the Captain's figures were right we +wouldn't be near enough to shore to have sand blow on us, and as we +had just cleared Barbados, we knew that the Captain's figures had +to be right. + +"Just as the storm of sand was at its height, Fourth Engineer Wild +was nearly suffocated by it, but was easily revived. About this +time it became so dark that we found it necessary to start up the +electric lights, and it was not until after we got clear from the +fog that we turned the current off. In the meantime they had +burned from nine o'clock in the morning until after two in the +afternoon. + + +THE ENGINE BECAME CHOKED + + +"Then there was another anxious moment shortly after nine o'clock. +Third Engineer Rennie had been running the donkey engine, when +suddenly it choked, and when he finally got it clear from the sand +or ashes, he found the valves were all cut out, and then it was we +discovered that it was not sand, but some sort of a composition +that seemed to cut steel like emery. Then came the danger that it +would get into the valves of the engine and cut them out, and for +several moments all hands scurried about and helped make the engine +room tight, and even then the ash drifted in and kept all the +engine room force wiping the engines clear of it. + +"Toward three o'clock in the afternoon of Friday we were +practically clear of the sand, but at eleven o'clock that night we +ran into a second bank of it, though not as bad as the first. We +made some experiments, and found the stuff was superior to emery +dust. It cut deeper and quicker, and only about half as much was +required to do the work. We made up our minds we would keep what +came on board, as it was better than the emery dust and much +cheaper, so we gathered it up. + +"That night there were more of the same electric phenomena toward +Martinique, but it was not until we got into St. Lucia, where we +saw the Roddam, that we learned of the terrible disaster at St. +Pierre, and then we knew that our sand was lava dust." + +The volcanic ash which fell on the decks of the Horace was ground +as fine as rifle powder, and was much finer than that which covered +the decks of the Etona. + +Returning to the stories told by officers of the Roraima, of which +a number have been given, it seems desirable to add here the +narrative of Ellery S. Scott, the mate of the ruined ship, since it +gives a vivid and striking account of his personal experience of +the frightful disaster, with many details of interest not related +by others. + + +MATE SCOTT'S GRAPHIC STORY + + +"We got to St. Pierre in the Roraima," began Mr. Scott, "at 6.30 +o'clock on Thursday morning. That's the morning the mountain and +the town and the ships were all sent to hell in a minute. + +"All hands had had breakfast. I was standing on the fo'c's'l head +trying to make out the marks on the pipes of a ship 'way out and +heading for St. Lucia. I wasn't looking at the mountain at all. +But I guess the captain was, for he was on the bridge, and the last +time I heard him speak was when he shouted, 'Heave up, Mr. Scott; +heave up.' I gave the order to the men, and I think some of them +did jump to get the anchor up, but nobody knows what really +happened for the next fifteen minutes. I turned around toward the +captain and then I saw the mountain. + +"Did you ever see the tide come into the Bay of Fundy. It doesn't +sneak in a little at a time as it does 'round here. It rolls in in +waves. That's the way the cloud of fire and mud and white-hot +stones rolled down from that volcano over the town and over the +ships. It was on us in almost no time, but I saw it and in the +same glance I saw our captain bracing himself to meet it on the +bridge. He was facing the fire cloud with both hands gripped hard +to the bridge rail, his legs apart and his knees braced back stiff. +I've seen him brace himself that same way many a time in a tough +sea with the spray going mast-head high and green water pouring +along the decks. + +"I saw the captain, I say, at the same instant I saw that ruin +coming down on us. I don't know why, but that last glimpse of poor +Muggah on his bridge will stay with me just as long as I remember +St. Pierre and that will be long enough. + +"In another instant it was all over for him. As I was looking at +him he was all ablaze. He reeled and fell on the bridge with his +face toward me. His mustache and eyebrows were gone in a jiffy. +His hat had gone, and his hair was aflame, and so were his clothes +from head to foot. I knew he was conscious when he fell, by the +look in his eyes, but he didn't make a sound. + +"That all happened a long way inside of half a minute; then +something new happened. When the wave of fire was going over us, a +tidal wave of the sea came out from the shore and did the rest. +That wall of rushing water was so high and so solid that it seemed +to rise up and join the smoke and flame above. For an instant we +could see nothing but the water and the flame. + +"That tidal wave picked the ship up like a canoe and then smashed +her. After one list to starboard the ship righted, but the masts, +the bridge, the funnel and all the upper works had gone overboard. + +"I had saved myself from fire by jamming a metal ventilator cover +over my head and jumping from the fo'c's'l head. Two St. Kitts +negroes saved me from the water by grabbing me by the legs and +pulling me down into the fo'c's'l after them. Before I could get +up three men tumbled in on top of me. Two of them were dead. + +"Captain Muggah went overboard, still clinging to the fragments of +his wrecked bridge. Daniel Taylor, the ship's cooper, and a Kitts +native jumped overboard to save him. Taylor managed to push the +captain on to a hatch that had floated off from us and then they +swam back to the ship for more assistance, but nothing could be +done for the captain. Taylor wasn't sure he was alive. The last +we saw of him or his dead body it was drifting shoreward on that +hatch. + +"Well, after staying in the fo'c's'l about twenty minutes I went +out on deck. There were just four of us left aboard who could do +anything. The four were Thompson, Dan Taylor, Quashee, and myself. +It was still raining fire and hot rocks and you could hardly see a +ship's length for dust and ashes, but we could stand that. There +were burning men and some women and two or three children lying +around the deck. Not just burned, but burning, then, when we got +to them. More than half the ship's company had been killed in that +first rush of flame. Some had rolled overboard when the tidal wave +came and we never saw so much as their bodies. The cook was burned +to death in his galley. He had been paring potatoes for dinner and +what was left of his right hand held the shank of his potato knife. +The wooden handle was in ashes. All that happened to a man in less +than a minute. The donkey engineman was killed on deck sitting in +front of his boiler. We found parts of some bodies--a hand, or an +arm or a leg. Below decks there were some twenty alive. + +"The ship was on fire, of course, what was left of it. The stumps +of both masts were blazing. Aft she was like a furnace, but +forward the flames had not got below deck, so we four carried those +who were still alive on deck into the fo'c's'l. All of them were +burned and most of them were half strangled. + +"One boy, a passenger and just a little shaver [the four-year-old +son of the late Clement Stokes, above spoken of] was picked up +naked. His hair and all his clothing had been burned off, but he +was alive. We rolled him in a blanket and put him in a sailor's +bunk. A few minutes later we looked at him and he was dead. + +"My own son's gone, too. It had been his trick at lookout ahead +during the dog watch that morning, when we were making for St. +Pierre, so I supposed at first when the fire struck us that he was +asleep in his bunk and safe. But he wasn't. Nobody could tell me +where he was. I don't know whether he was burned to death or +rolled overboard and drowned. He was a likely boy. He had been +several voyages with me and would have been a master some day. He +used to say he'd make me mate. + +"After getting all hands that had any life left in them below and +'tended to the best we could, the four of us that were left half +way ship-shape started in to fight the fire. We had case oil +stowed forward. Thanks to that tidal wave that cleared our decks +there wasn't much left to burn, so we got the fire down so's we +could live on board with it for several hours more and then the +four turned to to knock a raft together out of what timber and +truck we could find below. Our boats had gone overboard with the +masts and funnel. + + +PREPARED TO TRUST TO LUCK + + +"We made that raft for something over thirty that were alive. We +put provisions on for two days and rigged up a make-shift mast and +sail, for we intended to go to sea. We were only three boats' +length from the shore, but the shore was hell itself. We intended +to put straight out and trust to luck that the Korona, that was +about due at St. Pierre, would pick us up. But we did not have to +risk the raft, for about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when we were +almost ready to put the raft overboard, the Suchet came along and +took us all off. We thought for a minute just after we were +wrecked that we were to get help from a ship that passed us. We +burned blue lights, but she kept on. We learned afterward that she +was the Roddam." + +Soundings made off Martinique after the explosion showed that +earthquake effects of much importance had taken place under the sea +bottom, which had been lifted in some places and had sunk in +others. While deep crevices had been formed on the land, a still +greater effect had seemingly been produced beneath the water. +During the explosion the sea withdrew several hundred feet from its +shore line, and then came back steaming with fury; this indicating +a lift and fall of the ocean bed off the isle. Soundings made +subsequently near the island found in one place a depth of 4,000 +feet where before it had been only 600 feet deep. The French Cable +Company, which was at work trying to repair the cables broken by +the eruption, found the bottom of the Caribbean Sea so changed as +to render the old charts useless. + +New charts will need to be made for future navigation. The changes +in sea levels were not confined to the immediate centre of volcanic +activity, but extended as far north as Porto Rico, and it was +believed that the seismic wave would be found to have altered the +ocean bed round Jamaica. Vessels plying between St. Thomas, +Martinique, St. Lucia and other islands found it necessary to heave +the lead while many miles at sea. + +It is estimated that the sea had encroached from ten feet to two +miles along the coast of St. Vincent near Georgetown, and that a +section on the north of the island had dropped into the sea. +Soundings showed seven fathoms where before the eruption there were +thirty-six fathoms of water. Vessels that endeavored to approach +St. Vincent toward the north reported that it was impossible to get +nearer than eight miles to the scene of the catastrophe, and that +at that distance the ocean was seriously perturbed as from a +submarine volcano, boiling and hissing continually. + +In this connection the remarkable experience reported by the +officers of the Danish steamship Nordby, on the day preceding the +eruption, is of much interest, as seeming to show great convulsions +of the sea bottom at a point several hundred miles from Martinique. +The following is the story told by Captain Eric Lillien-skjold: + + +THE STRANGE EXPERIENCE OF THE "NORDBY" + + +"On May 5th," the captain said, "we touched at St. Michael's for +water. We had had an easy voyage from Girgenti, in Sicily, and we +wanted to finish an easy run here. We left St. Michael's on the +same day. Nothing worth while talking about occurred until two +days afterward--Wednesday, May 7th. + +"We were plodding along slowly that day. About noon I took the +bridge to make an observation. It seemed to be hotter than +ordinary. I shed my coat and vest and got into what little shade +there was. As I worked it grew hotter and hotter. I didn't know +what to make of it. Along about 2 o'clock in the afternoon it was +so hot that all hands got to talking about it. We reckoned that +something queer was coming off, but none of us could explain what +it was. You could almost see the pitch softening in the seams. + +"Then, as quick as you could toss a biscuit over its rail, the +Nordby dropped--regularly dropped--three or four feet down into the +sea. No sooner did it do this than big waves, that looked like +they were coming from all directions at once, began to smash +against our sides. This was queerer yet, because the water a +minute before was as smooth as I ever saw it. I had all hands +piped on deck and we battened down everything loose to make ready +for a storm. And we got it all right--the strangest storm you ever +heard tell of. + +"There was something wrong with the sun that afternoon. It grew +red and then dark red and then, about a quarter after 2, it went +out of sight altogether. The day got so dark that you couldn't see +half a ship's length ahead of you. We got our lamps going, and put +on our oilskins, ready for a hurricane. All of a sudden there came +a sheet of lightning that showed up the whole tumbling sea for +miles and miles. We sort of ducked, expecting an awful crash of +thunder, but it didn't come. There was no sound except the big +waves pounding against our sides. There wasn't a breath of wind. + +"Well, sir, at that minute there began the most exciting time I've +ever been through, and I've been on every sea on the map for +twenty-five years. Every second there'd be waves 15 or 20 feet +high, belting us head-on, stern-on and broadside, all at once. We +could see them coming, for without any stop at all flash after +flash of lightning was blazing all about us. + +"Something else we could see, too. Sharks! There were hundreds of +them on all sides, jumping up and down in the water. Some of them +jumped clear out of it. And sea birds! A flock of them, squawking +and crying, made for our rigging and perched there. They seemed +like they were scared to death. But the queerest part of it all +was the water itself. It was hot--not so hot that our feet could +not stand it when it washed over the deck, but hot enough to make +us think that it had been heated by some kind of a fire. + +"Well that sort of thing went on hour after hour. The waves, the +lightning, the hot water and the sharks, and all the rest of the +odd things happening, frightened the crew out of their wits. Some +of them prayed out loud--I guess the first time they ever did in +their lives. Some Frenchmen aboard kept running around and +yelling, 'Cest le dernier jour!' (This is the last day.) We were +all worried. Even the officers began to think that the world was +coming to an end. Mighty strange things happen on the sea, but +this topped them all. + +"I kept to the bridge all night. When the first hour of morning +came the storm was still going on. We were all pretty much tired +out by that time, but there was no such thing as trying to sleep. +The waves still were batting us around and we didn't know whether +we were one mile or a thousand miles from shore. At 2 o'clock in +the morning all the queer goings on stopped just the way they +began--all of a sudden. We lay to until daylight; then we took our +reckonings and started off again. We were about 700 miles off Cape +Henlopen. + +"No, sir; you couldn't get me through a thing like that again for +$10,000. None of us was hurt, and the old Nordby herself pulled +through all right, but I'd sooner stay ashore than see waves +without wind and lightning without thunder." + + +FIERY STREAM CONTAINED POISONOUS GASES + + +Careful inspection showed that the fiery stream which so completely +destroyed St. Pierre must have been composed of poisonous gases, +which instantly suffocated every one who inhaled them, and of other +gases burning furiously, for nearly all the victims had their hands +covering their mouths, or were in some other attitude showing that +they had perished from suffocation. + +It is believed that Mont Pelee threw off a great gasp of some +exceedingly heavy and noxious gas, something akin to firedamp, +which settled upon the city and rendered the inhabitants +insensible. This was followed by the sheet of flame that swept +down the side of the mountain. This theory is sustained by the +experience of the survivors who were taken from the ships in the +harbor, as they say that their first experience was one of +faintness. + +The dumb animals were wiser than man, and early took warning of the +storm of fire which Mont Pelee was storing up to hurl upon the +island. Even before the mountain began to rumble, late in April, +live stock became uneasy, and at times were almost uncontrollable. +Cattle lowed in the night. Dogs howled and sought the company of +their masters, and when driven forth they gave every evidence of +fear. + +Wild animals disappeared from the vicinity of Mont Pelee. Even the +snakes, which at ordinary times are found in great numbers near the +volcano, crawled away. Birds ceased singing and left the trees +that shaded the sides of Pelee. A great fear seemed to be upon the +island, and though it was shared by the human inhabitants, they +alone neglected to protect themselves. + +Of the villages in the vicinity of St. Pierre only one escaped, the +others suffering the fate of the city. The fortunate one was Le +Carbet, on the south, which escaped uninjured, the flood of lava +stopping when within two hundred feet of the town. Morne Rouge, a +beautiful summer resort, frequented by the people of the island +during the hot season as a place of recreation, also escaped. In +the height of the season several thousand people gathered there, +though at the time of the explosion there were but a few hundred. +Though located on an elevation between the city and the crater, it +was by great good fortune saved. + +The Governor of Martinique, Mr. Mouttet, whose precautions to +prevent the people fleeing from the city aided to make the work of +death complete, was himself among the victims of the burning +mountain. With him in this fate was Colonel Dain, commander of the +troops who formed a cordon round the doomed city. + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +St. Vincent Island and Mont Soufriere in 1812. + + +Among all the islands of the Caribbees St. Vincent is unique in +natural wonders and beauties. Situated about ninety-five miles +west of Barbados, it has a length of eighteen and a width of eleven +miles, the whole mass being largely composed of a single peak which +rises from the ocean's bed. From north to south volcanic hills +traverse its length, their ridges intersected by fertile and +beautiful valleys. + +A ridge of mountains crosses the island, dividing it into eastern +and western parts. Kingstown, the capital, a town of 8,000 +inhabitants, is on the southward side and extends along the shores +of a beautiful bay, with mountains gradually rising behind it in +the form of a vast amphitheatre. Three streets, broad and lined +with good houses, run parallel to the water-front. There are many +other intersecting highways, some of which lead back to the +foothills, from which good roads ascend the mountains. + +The majority of the houses have red tile roofing and a goodly +number of them are of stone, one story high, with thick walls after +the Spanish style--the same types of houses that were in St. Pierre +and which are not unlike the old Roman houses which in all stages +of ruin and semi-preservation are found in Pompeii to this day. + +Behind the general group of the houses of the town loom the +Governor's residence and the buildings of the botanical gardens +which overlook the town. + +Kingstown is the trading centre and the town of importance in the +island. It contains the churches and chapels of five Protestant +denominations and a number of excellent schools. Away from +Kingstown, and the smaller settlement of Georgetown, the population +is almost wholly rural, occupying scattered villages which consist +of negro huts clustering around a few substantial buildings or of +cabins grouped about old plantation buildings somewhat after the +ante-bellum fashion in our own Southern States. + +One of the tragedies of the West Indies was the sinking of old Port +Royal, the resort of buccaneers, in 1692. The harbor of Kingstown +is commonly supposed to cover the site of the old settlement. +There is a tradition that a buoy for many years was attached to the +spire of a sunken church in order to warn mariners. Three thousand +persons perished in the disaster. + + +DESCENDANTS OF ORIGINAL INDIAN POPULATION + + +The northern portion of the island, that desolated by the recent +volcanic eruption, was inhabited by people living in the manner +just described, the great majority of them being negroes. The +total population of the island is about 45,000, of whom 30,000 are +Africans and about 3,000 Europeans, the remainder being nearly all +Asiatics. There are, or rather were, a number of Caribs, the +descendants of the original warlike Indian population of these +islands. Many of these live in St. Vincent, though there are +others in Dominico. As their residence was in the northern section +of the island, the volcano seems to have completed the work for the +Caribs of this island which the Spaniard long ago began. These +Caribs were really half-breds, having amalgamated with the negroes. +Many of the blacks own land of their own, raising arrow root, +which, since the decay of the sugar industry, is the chief export. + +In an island only eighteen miles long by eleven broad there is not +room for any distinctly marked mountain range. The whole of St. +Vincent, in fact, is a fantastic tumble of hills, culminating in +the volcanic ridge which runs lengthwise of the oval-shaped island. +The culminating peak of the great volcanic mass, for St. Vincent is +nothing more, is Mont Garou, of which La Soufriere is a sort of +lofty excrescence in the northwest, 4,048 feet high, and flanking +the main peak at some distance away. + +It may be said that all the volcanic mountains in this part of the +West Indies have what the people call a "soufriere"--a "sulphur +pit," or "sulphur crater"--the name coming, as in the case of past +disturbances of Mont Pelee, from the strong stench of sulphuretted +hydrogen which issues from them when the volcano becomes agitated. + +In 1812 it was La Soufriere adjacent to Mont Garou which broke +loose on the island of St. Vincent, and it is the same Soufriere +which again has devastated the island and has bombarded Kingstown +with rocks, lava and ashes. + +The old crater of Mont Garou has long been extinct, and, like the +old crater of Mont Pelee, near St. Pierre, it had far down in its +depths, surrounded by sheer cliffs from 500 to 800 feet high, a +lake. Glimpses of the lake of Mont Garou are difficult to get, +owing to the thick verdure growing about the dangerous edges of the +precipices, but those who have seen it describe it as a beautiful +sheet of deep blue water. + + +THE APPEARANCE OF THE SOUFRIERE + + +Previous to the eruption of 1812 the appearance of the Soufriere +was most interesting. The crater was half a mile in diameter and +five hundred feet in depth. In its centre was a conical hill, +fringed with shrubs and vines; at whose base were two small lakes, +one sulphurous, the other pure and tasteless. This lovely and +beautiful spot was rendered more interesting by the singularly +melodious notes of a bird, an inhabitant of these upper solitudes, +and altogether unknown to the other parts of the island--hence +called, or supposed to be, "invisible," as it had never been seen. +(It is of interest to state that Frederick A. Ober, in a visit to +the island some twenty years ago, succeeded in obtaining specimens +of this previously unknown bird.) From the fissures of the cone a +thin white smoke exuded, occasionally tinged with a light blue +flame. Evergreens, flowers and aromatic shrubs clothed the steep +sides of the crater, which made, as the first indication of the +eruption on April 27, 1812, a tremulous noise in the air. A severe +concussion of the earth followed, and then a column of thick black +smoke burst from the crater. + + +THE ERUPTION OF 1812 + + +The eruption which followed these premonitory symptoms was one of +the most terrific which had occurred in the West Indies up to that +time. It was the culminating event which seemed to relieve a +pressure within the earth's crust which extended from the +Mississippi Valley to Caracas, Venezuela, producing terrible +effects in the latter place. Here, thirty-five days before the +volcanic explosion, the ground was rent and shaken by a frightful +earthquake which hurled the city in ruins to the ground and killed +ten thousand of its inhabitants in a moment of time. + +La Soufriere made the first historic display of its hidden powers +in 1718, when lava poured from its crater. A far more violent +demonstration of its destructive forces was that above mentioned. +On this occasion the eruption lasted for three days, ruining a +number of the estates in the vicinity and destroying many lives. +Myriads of tons of ashes, cinders, pumice and scoriae, hurled from +the crater, fell in every section of the island. Volumes of sand +darkened the air, and woods, ridges and cane fields were covered +with light gray ashes, which speedily destroyed all vegetation. +The sun for three days seemed to be in a total eclipse, the sea was +discolored and the ground bore a wintry appearance from the white +crust of fallen ashes. + +Carib natives who lived at Morne Rond fled from their houses to +Kingstown. As the third day drew to a close flames sprang +pyramidically from the crater, accompanied by loud thunder and +electric flashes, which rent the column of smoke hanging over the +volcano. Eruptive matter pouring from the northwest side plunged +over the cliff, carrying down rocks and woods in its course. The +island was shaken by an earthquake and bombarded with showers of +cinders and stones, which set houses on fire and killed many of the +natives. + + +THE TERRIBLE EARTHQUAKE AT CARACAS + + +For nearly two years before this explosion earthquakes had been +common, and sea and land had been agitated from the valley of the +Mississippi to the coasts of Venezuela and the mountains of New +Grenada, and from the Azores to the West Indies. On March 26, +1812, these culminated in the terrible tragedy, spoken of above, of +which Humboldt gives us a vivid account. + +On that day the people of the Venezuelan city of Caracas were +assembled in the churches, beneath a still and blazing sky, when +the earth suddenly heaved and shook, like a great monster waking +from slumber, and in a single minute 10,000 people were buried +beneath the walls of churches and houses, which tumbled in hideous +ruin upon their heads. The same earthquake made itself felt along +the whole line of the Northern Cordilleras, working terrible +destruction, and shook the earth as far as Santa Fe de Bogota and +Honda, 180 leagues from Caracas. This was a preliminary symptom of +the internal disorder of the earth. + +While the wretched inhabitants of Caracas who had escaped the +earthquake were dying of fever and starvation, and seeking among +villages and farms places of safety from the renewed earthquake +shocks, the almost forgotten volcano of St. Vincent was muttering +in suppressed wrath. For twelve months it had given warning, by +frequent shocks of the earth, that it was making ready to play its +part in the great subterranean battle. On the 27th of April its +deep-hidden powers broke their bonds, and the conflict between rock +and fire began. + + +THE MOUNTAIN STONES A HERD-BOY + + +The first intimation of the outbreak was rather amusing than +alarming. A negro boy was herding cattle on the mountain side. A +stone fell near him. Another followed. He fancied that some other +boys were pelting him from the cliff above, and began throwing +stones upward at his fancied concealed tormentors. But the stones +fell thicker, among them some too large to be thrown by any human +hand. Only then did the little fellow awake to the fact that it +was not a boy like himself, but the mighty mountain, that was +flinging these stones at him. He looked up and saw that the black +column which was rising from the crater's mouth was no longer +harmless vapor, but dust, ashes and stones. Leaving the cattle to +their fate, he fled for his life, while the mighty cannon of the +Titans roared behind him as he ran. For three days and nights this +continued; then, on the 30th, a stream of lava poured over the +crater's rim and rushed downward, reaching the sea in four hours, +and the great eruption was at an end. + +On the same day, says Humboldt, at a distance of more than 200 +leagues, "the inhabitants not only of Caracas, but of Calabozo, +situated in the midst of the Lianos, over a space of 4,000 square +leagues, were terrified by a subterranean noise which resembled +frequent discharges of the heaviest cannon. It was accompanied by +no shock, and, what is very remarkable, was as loud on the coast as +at eighty leagues' distance inland, and at Caracas, as well as at +Calabozo, preparations were made to put the place in defence +against an enemy who seemed to be advancing with heavy artillery." + +It was no enemy that man could deal with. Fortunately, it confined +its assault to deep noises, and desisted from earthquake shocks. +Similar noises were heard in Martinique and Guadeloupe, and here +also without shocks. The internal thunder was the signal of what +was taking place on St. Vincent. With this last warning sound the +trouble, which had lasted so long, was at an end. The earthquakes +which for two years had shaken a sheet of the earth's surface +larger than half Europe, were stilled by the eruption of St. +Vincent's volcanic peak. + + +BARBADOS COVERED WITH ASHES + + +Northeast of the original crater of the Soufriere a new one was +formed which was a half mile in diameter and five hundred feet +deep. The old crater was in time transformed into a beautiful blue +lake, as above stated, walled in by ragged cliffs to a height of +eight hundred feet. + +It was looked upon as a remarkable circumstance that although the +air was perfectly calm during the eruption, Barbados, which is +ninety-five miles to the windward, was covered inches deep with +ashes. The inhabitants there and on other neighboring islands were +terrified by the darkness, which continued for four hours and a +half. Troops were called under arms, the supposition from the +continued noise being that hostile fleets were in an engagement. + +The movement of the ashes to windward, as just stated, was viewed +as a remarkable phenomenon, and is cited by Elise Reclus, in "The +Ocean," to show the force of different aerial currents; "On the +first day of May, 1812, when the northeast trade-wind was in all +its force, enormous quantities of ashes obscured the atmosphere +above the Island of Barbados, and covered the ground with a thick +layer. One would have supposed that they came from the volcanoes +of the Azores, which were to the northeast; nevertheless they were +cast up by the crater in St. Vincent, one hundred miles to the +west. It is therefore certain that the debris had been hurled, by +the force of the eruption, above the moving sheet of the trade- +winds into an aerial river proceeding in a contrary direction." +For this it must have been hurled miles high into the air, till +caught by the current of the anti-trade winds. + + +KINGSLEY'S VISIT TO SAINT VINCENT + + +From Charles Kingsley's "At Last" we extract, from the account of +the visit of the author to St. Vincent, some interesting matter +concerning the 1812 eruption and its effect on the mountain; also +its influence upon distant Barbados, as just stated. + +"The strangest fact about this eruption was, that the mountain did +not make use of its old crater. The original vent must have become +so jammed and consolidated, in the few years between 1785 and 1812, +that it could not be reopened, even by a steam force the vastness +of which may be guessed at from the vastness of the area which it +had shaken for two years. So, when the eruption was over, it was +found that the old crater-lake, incredible as it may seem, remained +undisturbed, so far as has been ascertained; but close to it, and +separated only by a knife-edge of rock some 700 feet in height, and +so narrow that, as I was assured by one who had seen it, it is +dangerous to crawl along it, a second crater, nearly as large as +the first, had been blasted out, the bottom of which, in like +manner, was afterward filled with water. + +"I regretted much that I could not visit it. Three points I longed +to ascertain carefully--the relative heights of the water in the +two craters; the height and nature of the spot where the lava +stream issued; and, lastly, if possible, the actual causes of the +locally famous Rabacca, or 'Dry River,' one of the largest streams +in the island, which was swallowed up during the eruption, at a +short distance from its source, leaving its bed an arid gully to +this day. But it could not be, and I owe what little I know of the +summit of the soufriere principally to a most intelligent and +gentleman-like young Wesleyan minister, whose name has escaped me. +He described vividly, as we stood together on the deck, looking up +at the volcano, the awful beauty of the twin lakes, and of the +clouds which, for months together, whirl in and out of the cups in +fantastic shapes before the eddies of the trade wind. + + +BLACK SUNDAY AT BARBADOS + + +"The day after the explosion, 'Black Sunday,' gave a proof of, +though no measure of, the enormous force which had been exerted. +Eighty miles to windward lies Barbados. All Saturday a heavy +cannonading had been heard to the eastward. The English and French +fleets were surely engaged. The soldiers were called out; the +batteries manned; but the cannonade died away, and all went to bed +in wonder. On the 1st of May the clocks struck six, but the sun +did not, as usual in the tropics, answer to the call. The darkness +was still intense, and grew more intense as the morning wore on. A +slow and silent rain of impalpable dust was falling over the whole +island. The negroes rushed shrieking into the streets. Surely the +last day was come. The white folk caught (and little blame to +them) the panic, and some began to pray who had not prayed for +years. The pious and the educated (and there were plenty of both +in Barbados) were not proof against the infection. Old letters +describe the scene in the churches that morning as hideous-- +prayers, sobs, and cries, in Stygian darkness, from trembling +crowds. And still the darkness continued and the dust fell. + + +INCIDENTS AT BARBADOS + + +"I have a letter written by one long since dead, who had at least +powers of description of no common order, telling how, when he +tried to go out of his house upon the east coast, he could not find +the trees on his own lawn save by feeling for their stems. He +stood amazed not only in utter darkness, but in utter silence; for +the trade-wind had fallen dead, the everlasting roar of the surf +was gone, and the only noise was the crashing of branches, snapped +by the weight of the clammy dust. He went in again, and waited. +About one o'clock the veil began to lift; a lurid sunlight stared +in from the horizon, but all was black overhead. Gradually the +dust drifted away; the island saw the sun once more, and saw itself +inches deep in black, and in this case fertilizing, dust. The +trade-wind blew suddenly once more out of the clear east, and the +surf roared again along the shore. + +"Meanwhile a heavy earthquake-wave had struck part at least of the +shores of Barbados. The gentleman on the east coast, going out, +found traces of the sea, and boats and logs washed up some ten to +twenty feet above high-tide mark; a convulsion which seemed to have +gone unmarked during the general dismay. + +"One man at least, an old friend of John Hunter, Sir Joseph Banks +and others their compeers, was above the dismay, and the +superstitious panic which accompanied it. Finding it still dark +when he rose to dress, he opened (so the story used to run) his +window; found it stick, and felt upon the sill a coat of soft +powder. "The volcano in St. Vincent has broken out at last,' said +the wise man, 'and this is the dust of it.' So he quieted his +household and his negroes, lighted his candles, and went to his +scientific books, in that delight, mingled with an awe not the less +deep, because it is rational and self-possessed, with which he, +like the other men of science, looked at the wonders of this +wondrous world." + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +Submarine Volcanoes and their Work of Island Building. + + +In November, 1867, a volcano suddenly began to show signs of +activity beneath the deep sea of the Pacific Ocean. There are some +islands nearly two thousands miles to the east of Australia called +the Navigator's Group, in which there had been no history of an +eruption, nor had such an event been handed down by tradition. +Most of the islands in the Pacific Ocean are old volcanoes, or are +made up of rocks cast forth from extinct burning mountains. They +rise up like peaks through the great depths of the ocean, and the +top, which just appears above the sea-level, is generally encircled +by a growth of coral. Hence they are termed coral islands. These +islands every now and then rise higher than the sea-level, owing to +some deep upheaving force, and then the coral is lifted up above +the water, and become a solid rock. But occasionally the reverse +of this takes place, and the islands begin to sink into the sea, +owing to a force which causes the base of the submarine mountain to +become depressed. Sometimes they disappear. All this shows that +some great disturbing forces are in action at the bottom of the +sea, and just within the earth's crust, and that they are of a +volcanic nature. + +For some time before the eruption in question, earthquakes shook +the surrounding islands of the Navigator's Group, and caused great +alarm, and when the trembling of the earth was very great, the sea +began to be agitated near one of the islands, and vast circles of +disturbed water were formed. Soon the water began to be forced +upwards, and dead fish were seen floating about. After a while, +steam rushed forth, and jets of mud and volcanic sand. Moreover, +when the steam began to rush up out of the water, the violence of +the general agitation of the land and of the surface of the sea +increased. + + +AN ERUPTION DESCRIBED + + +When the eruption was at its height vast columns of mud and masses +of stone rushed into the air to a height of 2,000 feet, and the +fearful crash of masses of rock hurled upwards and coming in +collision with others which were falling attested the great volume +of ejected matter which accumulated in the bed of the ocean, +although no trace of a volcano could be seen above the surface of +the sea. Similar submarine volcanic action has been observed in +the Atlantic Ocean, and crews of ships have reported that they have +seen in different places sulphurous smoke, flame, jets of water, +and steam, rising up from the sea, or they have observed the waters +greatly discolored and in a state of violent agitation, as if +boiling in large circles. + +New shoals have also been encountered, or a reef of rocks just +emerging above the surface, where previously there was always +supposed to have been deep water. On some few occasions, the +gradual building up of an island by submarine volcanoes has been +observed, as that of Sabrina in 1181, off St. Michael's, in the +Azores. The throwing up of ashes in this case, and the formation +of a conical hill 300 feet high, with a crater out of which spouted +lava and steam, took place very rapidly. But the waves had the +best of it, and finally washed Sabrina into the depths of the +ocean. Previous eruptions in the same part of the sea were +recorded as having happened in 1691 and 1720. + +In 1831, a submarine volcanic eruption occurred in the +Mediterranean Sea, between Sicily and that part of the African +coast where Carthage formerly stood. A few years before, Captain +Smyth had sounded the spot in a survey of the sea ordered by +Government, and he found the sea-bottom to be under 500 feet of +water. On June 28, about a fortnight before the eruption was +visible, Sir Pulteney Malcom, in passing over the spot in his ship, +felt the shock of an earthquake as if he had struck on a sandbank, +and the same shocks were felt on the west coast of Sicily, in a +direction from south-west to north-east. + + +BUILDING UP OF AN ISLAND BY SUBMARINE VOLCANOES + + +About July 10, the captain of a Sicilian vessel reported that as he +passed near the place he saw a column of water like a waterspout, +sixty feet high, and 800 yards in circumference, rising from the +sea, and soon after a dense rush of steam in its place, which +ascended to the height of 1,800 feet. The same captain, on his +return eighteen days after, found a small island twelve feet high, +with a crater in its centre, throwing forth volcanic matter and +immense columns of vapor, the sea around being covered with +floating cinders and dead fish. The eruption continued with great +violence to the end of the same month. By the end of the month the +island grew to ninety feet in height, and measured three-quarters +of a mile round. By August 4th it became 200 feet high and three +miles in circumference; after which it began to diminish in size by +the action of the waves. Towards the end of October the island was +levelled nearly to the surface of the sea. + +Naval officers and foreign ministers alike took an absorbing +interest in this new island. The strong national thirst for +territory manifested itself and eager mariners waited only till the +new land should be cool enough to set foot on to strive who should +be first to plant there his country's flag. Names in abundance +were given it by successive observers,--Nerita, Sciacca, +Fernandina, Julia, Hotham, Corrao, and Graham. The last holds good +in English speech, and as Graham's Island it is known in books to- +day, though the sea took back what it had given, leaving but a +shoal of cinders and sand. + +The Bay of Santorin, in the island of that name, which lies +immediately to the north of Crete, has long been noted for its +submarine volcanoes. According to one account, indeed, the whole +island was at a remote period raised from the bottom of the sea; +but this is questionable. It is, with more reason, supposed that +the bay is the site of an ancient crater, which was situated on the +summit of a volcanic cone that subsequently fell in. Certain it is +that islands have from time to time been thrown up by volcanic +forces from the bottom of the sea within this bay, and that some of +them have remained, while others have sunk again. + + +HOW AN ISLAND GREW + + +Of the existing islands, some were thrown up shortly before the +beginning of the Christian era; in particular, one called the Great +Cammeni, which, however, received a considerable accession to its +size by a fresh eruption in A. D. 726. The islet nearest Santorin +was raised in 1573, and was named the Little Cammeni; and in 1707 +there was added, between the other two, a third, which is now +called the Black Island. This made its appearance above water on +the 23rd of May, 1707, and was first mistaken for a wreck; but some +sailors, who landed on it, found it to be a mass of rock; +consisting of a very white soft stone, to which were adhering +quantities of fresh oysters. While they were collecting these, a +violent shaking of the ground scared them away. + +During several weeks the island gradually increased in volume; but +in July, at a distance of about sixty paces from the new islet, +there was thrown up a chain of black calcined rocks, followed by +volumes of thick black smoke, having a sulphurous smell. A few +days thereafter the water all around the spot became hot, and many +dead fishes were thrown up. Then, with loud subterraneous noises, +flames arose, and fresh quantities of stones and other substances +were ejected, until the chain of black rocks became united to the +first islet that had appeared. This eruption continued for a long +time, there being thrown out quantities of ashes and pumice, which +covered the island of Santorin and the surface of the sea--some +being drifted to the coasts of Asia Minor and the Dardanelles. The +activity of this miniature volcano was prolonged, with greater or +less energy, for about ten years. + +In 1866 similar phenomena took place in the Bay of Santorin, +beginning with underground sounds and slight shocks of earthquake, +which were followed by the appearance of flames on the surface of +the sea. Soon after there arose, out of a dense smoke, a small +islet, which gradually increased until in a week's time it was 60 +feet high, 200 long and 90 wide. The people of Santorin named it +"George," in honor of the King of Greece. In another week it +joined and became continuous with the Little Cammeni. The +detonations increased in loudness, and large quantities of +incandescent stones were thrown up from the crater. + +About the same time, at the distance of nearly 150 feet from the +coast, to the westward of a point called Cape Phlego, there rose +from the sea another island, to which was given the name of +Aphroessa. It sank and reappeared several times before it +established itself above water. The detonations and ejection of +incandescent lava and stones continued at intervals during three +weeks. From the crater of the islet George, which attained a +height of 150 feet, some stones several cubic yards in bulk were +projected to a great distance. One of them falling on board of a +merchant vessel, killed the captain and set fire to the ship. + +By the 10th of March the eruptions had partially subsided, but were +then renewed, and a third island, which was named Reka, rose +alongside of Aphroessa. They were at first separated by a channel +sixty feet deep; but in three days this was filled up, and the two +islets became united. + +Reference may properly be made here to Monte Nuovo and Jorullo, not +that they appertain to the present subject, but that they form +examples of the action of similar forces, in the one instance +exerted on a lake bottom, in the other on dry land, each yielding +permanent volcanic elevations in every respect analogous to those +which rise as islands from the bottom of the sea. + + +IN THE ICELANDIC SEAS + + +Off the coast of Iceland islands have appeared during several of +the volcanic eruptions which that remote dependency of Denmark has +manifested, and at various periods in Iceland's history the sea has +been covered with pumice and other debris, which tell their own +tale of what has been going on, without being in sufficient +quantity to reach the surface in the form of an island mass. The +sea off Reykjanes--Smoky Cape, as the name means--has been a +frequent scene of these submarine eruptions. In 1240, during what +the Icelandic historians describe as the eighth outburst, a number +of islets were formed, though most of them subsequently +disappeared, only to have their places occupied by others born at a +later date. In 1422 high rocks of considerable circumference +appeared. In 1783, about a month before the eruption of Skaptar +Jokull, a volcanic island named Nyoe, from which fire and smoke +issued, was built up. But in time it vanished under the waves, all +that remains of it to-day being a reef from five to thirty-five +fathoms below the sea-level. In 1830, after several long-continued +eruptions of the usual character, another isle arose; while at the +same time the skerries known as the Geirfuglaska disappeared, and +with them vanished the great auks, or gare-fowls--birds now +extinct--which up to that time had bred on them. At all events, +though the auks could not well have been drowned, no traces of them +were seen after the date mentioned. In July, 1884, an island again +appeared about ten miles off Reykjanes; but it is already beginning +to diminish in size, and may soon disappear. + + +OFF THE COAST OF ALASKA + + +Elsewhere in the region of the northern seas there are other +instances of the influence of the submarine forces in raising up +and lowering land. The coast of Alaska is a region of intense +volcanic action. In 1795, during a period of volcanic activity in +the craters of Makushina, on Unalaska, and in others on Umnak +Island, a volume of smoke was seen to rise out of the sea about 42 +miles to the north of Unalaska, and the next year it was followed +by a heap of cindery material, from which arose flame and volcanic +matter, the glow being visible over a radius of ten miles. In four +years the island grew into a large cone, 3000 feet above the sea- +level, and two or three miles in circumference. Two years later it +was still so hot that when some hunters landed on it they found the +soil too warm for walking. It was named Ionna Bogoslova (St. John +the Theologian), by the Russians, Agashagok by the Aleuts, and is +now known to the whites of that region as Bogosloff. Mr. Dall +believes that it occupies the site of some rocks that existed there +as long as tradition extends. + +There were additions to the cone up to the year 1823, when it +became so quiescent as to be the favorite haunt of seals and sea- +fowls, and, when the weather was favorable, was visited by native +egg-hunters from Unalaska. During the summer of 1883 Bogosloff was +again seen in eruption, as it was thought. However, on closely +examining the neighborhood, it was found that the old island was +undisturbed, but that there had been a fresh eruption, which had +resulted in the extension of Bogosloff by the appearance of a cone +and crater (Hague Volcano), 357 feet high, connected with the +parent island by a low sand-spit, and situated in a spot where, the +year before, the lead showed 800 fathoms of water. At the same +time Augustin and two other previously quiet islands on the +peninsula of Alaska began simultaneously to emit smoke, dust and +ashes, while a reef running westward and formerly submerged became +elevated to the sea surface. Other islands, of origin exactly +similar to Bogosloff and those mentioned, are to be found in this +region, notably Koniugi and Kasatochi, in the western Aleutians, +and Pinnacle Island, near St. Matthew Island. Indeed, the volcano +of Kliutchevsk, which rises to a height of over 15,000 feet, is +really a volcanic island. + +A permanent addition was made to the Aleutian group of Islands by +the action of a submarine volcano in 1806. This new island has the +form of a volcanic peak, with several subsidiary cones. It is four +geographical miles in circumference. In 1814 another arose out of +the sea in the same archipelago, the cone of which attained a +height of 3,000 feet; but at the end of a year it lost a portion of +this elevation. + +In 1856, in the sea in the same neighborhood, Captain Newell, of +the whaling bark Alice Fraser, witnessed a submarine eruption, +which was also seen by the crews of several other vessels. There +was no island formed on this occasion, but large jets of water were +thrown up, and the sea was greatly agitated all around. Then +followed volcanic smoke, and quantities of stones, ashes, and +pumice; the two latter being scattered over the surface of the sea +to a great distance. Loud thundering reports accompanied this +eruption, and all the ships in the neighborhood felt concussions +like those produced by an earthquake. These phenomena seem to have +ended in the formation of some great submarine chasm, into which +the waters rushed with extreme violence and a terrific roar. + +Occurrences similar to this last have been several times observed +in a tract of open sea in the Atlantic, about half a degree south +of the equator, and between 20 and 22 degrees of west longitude. +Although quantities of volcanic dross have been from time to time +thrown up to the surface in this region, no island has yet made its +appearance above water. + +The events here described repeat on a far smaller scale similar +ones which have occurred in remote ages in many parts of the ocean +and left great island masses as the permanent effects of their +work. We may instance the Hawaiian group, which is wholly of +volcanic origin, with the exception of its minor coral additions, +and represents a stupendous activity of underground agencies +beneath the domain of Father Neptune. + +In part, as we have said elsewhere in this work, all oceanic +islands, remote from those in the shoal bordering waters of the +continents, have been of volcanic or coral formation, or more often +a combination of the two. No sooner does an island mass appear +above or near the surface of tropical waters than the minute coral +animals--effective only by their myriads--begin their labors, +building fringes of coral rock around the cindery heaps lifted from +the ocean floor. The atolls of the Pacific--circular or oval rings +of coral with lagunes of sea-water within--have long been thought +to be built on the rims of submarine volcanoes, rising to within a +few hundred feet of the surface, much as coral reefs around actual +islands. If the volcanic mass should subsequently subside, as it +is likely to do, the minute ocean builders will continue their +work--unless the subsidence be too rapid for their powers of +production--and in this way ring-like islands of coral may in time +rise from great depths of sea, their basis being the volcanic +island which has sunk from near the surface far toward old ocean's +primal floor. + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +Mud Volcanoes, Geysers, and Hot Springs. + + +Our usual impression of a volcano is indicated in the title of +"burning mountain," so often employed, a great fire-spouting cone +of volcanic debris, from which steam, lava, rock-masses, cinder- +like fragments, and dust, often of extreme fineness, are flung high +into the air or flow in river-like torrents of molten rock. This, +no doubt, applies in the majority of cases, but the volcanic forces +do not confine themselves to these magnificent displays of energy, +nor are their products limited to those above specified. We have +seen that mud is a not uncommon product, due to the mingling of +water with volcanic dust, while water alone is occasionally +emitted, of which we have a marked instance in the Volcan de Agua, +of Guatemala, already mentioned. As regards mud flows, we may +specially instance the first outflow from Mont Pelee, that by which +the Guerin sugar works were overwhelmed. + +The imprisoned forces of the earth have still other modes of +manifestation. A very frequent one of these, and the most +destructive to human life of them all, is the earthquake. + +Minor manifestations of volcanic action may be seen in the geyser +and the hot spring, the latter the most widely disseminated of all +the resultant effects of the heated condition of the earth's +interior. It is these displays of subterranean energy, differing +from those usually termed volcanic, yet due to the same general +causes, that we have next to consider. And it may be premised that +their manifestations, while, except in the case of the earthquake, +less violent, are no less interesting, especially as the minor +displays are free from that peril to human life which renders the +major ones so terrible. + +While the largest volcanoes at times pour out rivers of liquid mud, +there are volcanoes from which nothing is ever ejected but mud and +water, the latter being generally salt. From this circumstance +they are sometimes called salses, but they are more generally +termed mud-volcanoes. Some varieties of them throw out little else +than gases of different sorts, and these are called air-volcanoes. + + +THE GREAT MUD VOLCANO OF SICILY + + +One of the best known mud-volcanoes is at Macaluba, near Girgenti, +in Sicily. It consists of several conical mounds, varying from +time to time in their form and height, which ranges from eight to +thirty feet. From orifices on the tops of these mounds there are +thrown out sometimes jets of warmish water and mud mixed with +bitumen, sometimes bubbles of gas, chiefly carbonic acid and +carburetted hydrogen, occasionally pure nitrogen. The mud ejected +has often a strong sulphurous smell. The jets in general ascend +only to a moderate height; but occasionally they are thrown up with +great violence, attaining a height of about 200 feet. In 1777 +there was ejected an immense column, consisting of mud strongly +impregnated with sulphur and mixed with naphtha and stones, +accompanied also by quantities of sulphurous vapors. This mud- +volcano is known to have been in action for fifteen centuries. + +Very recently a small mud-volcano has been formed on the flanks of +Mount Etna. It began with the throwing up of jets of boiling +water, mixed with petroleum and mud, great quantities of gas +bubbling up at the same time. In several of the valleys of Iceland +there are similar phenomena, the boiling water and mud being thrown +up in jets to the height of fifteen feet and upwards, the mud +accumulating around the orifices whence the jets arise. + +A mud-volcano named Korabetoff, in the Crimea, presents phenomena +more akin to those of the igneous volcanoes of South America. +There was an eruption from this mountain on the 6th of August, +1853. It began by throwing up from the summit a column of fire and +smoke, which ascended to a great height. This continued for five +or six minutes, and was followed at short intervals by two similar +eruptions. There was then ejected with a hissing noise a quantity +of black fetid mud, which was so hot as to scorch the grass on the +edges of the stream. The mud continued to pour out for three +hours, covering a wide space at the mountain's base. The mud- +volcanoes on the coast of Beloochistan are very numerous, and +extend over an area of nearly a thousand square miles. Their +action resembles that at Macaluba. + + +THE MUD VOLCANO OF JAVA + + +There is a mud volcano in Java which is of interest as somewhat +resembling the geyser in its mode of operation and apparently due +to similar agencies. It is thus described by Dr. Horsfield:-- + +"On approaching it from a distance, it is first discovered by a +large volume of smoke, rising and disappearing at intervals of a +few seconds, resembling the vapors rising from a violent surf. A +loud noise is heard, like that of distant thunder. Having advanced +so near that the vision was no longer impeded by the smoke, a large +hemispherical mass was observed, consisting of black earth mixed +with water, about sixteen feet in diameter, rising to the height of +twenty or thirty feet in a perfectly regular manner, and as if it +were pushed up by a force beneath, which suddenly exploded with a +loud noise, and scattered about a volume of black mud in every +direction. After an interval of two or three, or sometimes four or +five seconds, the hemispherical body of mud rose and exploded +again. In the manner stated this volcanic ebullition goes on +without interruption, throwing up a globular body of mud, and +dispersing it with violence through the neighboring plain. The +spot where the ebullition occurs is nearly circular, and perfectly +level. It is covered only with the earthy particles, impregnated +with salt water, which are thrown up from below. The circumference +may be estimated at about half an English mile. In order to +conduct the salt water to the circumference, small passages or +gutters are made in the loose muddy earth, which lead to the +borders, where it is collected in holes dug in the ground for the +purpose of evaporation." + +The mud has a strong, pungent, sulphurous smell, resembling that of +mineral oil, and is hotter than the surrounding atmosphere. During +the rainy season the explosions increase in violence. + +There are submarine mud volcanoes as well as those of igneous kind. +In 1814 one of this character broke out in the Sea of Azof, +beginning with flame and black smoke, accompanied by earth and +stones, which were flung to a great height. Ten of these +explosions occurred, and, after a period of rest, others were heard +during the night. The next morning there was visible above the +water an island of mud some ten feet high. A very similar +occurrence took place in 1827, near Baku, in the Caspian sea. This +began with a flaming display and the ejection of great fragments of +rock. An eruption of mud succeeded. A set of small volcanoes +discovered by Humboldt in Turbaco, in South America, confined their +emissions almost wholly to gases, chiefly nitrogen. + +There is a close connection in character between mud volcanoes and +those intermittent boiling springs named geysers. A good many of +the mud volcanoes throw out jets of boiling water along with the +mud; but in the case of the geysers, the boiling water is ejected +alone, without any visible impregnation, though some mineral in +solution, as silica, carbonate of lime, or sulphur, is usually +present. + + +THE GEYSER IS A WATER VOLCANO + + +The phenomenon of the geyser serves in a measure to support the +theory that steam is an important agent in volcanic action. A +geyser, in fact, may be designated as a water volcano, since it +throws up water only. It comprises a cone or mound, usually only a +few feet high. In the middle of this is a crater-like opening with +a passage leading down into the earth. As in the case of the +volcano, the geyser cone is built up by its own action. In the +boiling water which is ejected there is dissolved a certain amount +of silica. As the water falls and cools this mineral is deposited, +gradually building up a cup-like elevation. The basin of the +geyser is generally full of clear water, with a little steam rising +from its surface; but at intervals an eruption takes place, +sometimes at regular periods, but more often at irregular +intervals. + +Among the largest and best known geysers in the world are those of +Iceland, chief among them being the Great Geyser. Silica is the +mineral with which the waters of this fountain are impregnated, and +the substance which they deposit, as they slowly evaporate, is +named siliceous sinter. Of this material is composed the mound, +six or seven feet high, on which the spring is situated. On the +top of the mound is a large oval basin, about three feet in depth, +measuring in its larger diameter about fifty-six, and in its +shorter about forty-six feet. The centre of this basin is occupied +by a circular well about ten feet in diameter, and between seventy +and eighty feet deep. + +Out of the central well springs a jet of boiling water, at +intervals of six or seven hours. When the fountain is at rest, +both the basin and the well appear quite empty, and no steam is +seen. But on the approach of the moment for action, the water +rises in the well, till it flows over into the basin. Then loud +subterranean explosions are heard, and the ground all round is +violently shaken. + +Instantly, and with immense force, a steaming jet of boiling water, +of the full width of the well, springs up and ascends to a great +height in the air. The top of this large column of water is +enveloped in vast clouds of steam, which diffuse themselves through +the air, rendering it misty. These jets succeed each other with +great rapidity to the number of sixteen or eighteen, the period of +action of the fountain being about five minutes. The last of the +jets generally ascends to the greatest height, usually to about +100, but sometimes to 150 feet; on one occasion it rose to the +great height of 212 feet. Having ejected this great column of +water, the action ceases, and the water that had filled the basin +sinks down into the well. There it remains till the time for the +next eruption, when the same phenomena are repeated. It has been +found that, by throwing large stones into the well, the period of +the eruption may be hastened, while the loudness of the explosions +and the violence of the fountain effect are increased, the stones +being at the same time ejected with great force. + + +ERUPTION CAN BE INDUCED BY ARTIFICIAL MEANS + + +Geysers are found all over the island, presenting various +peculiarities. In the case of one of the smaller ones, which is +called Strokr, or the Churn, an eruption can be induced by +artificial means. A barrow-load of sods is thrown into the crater +of the geyser, with the effect of causing an eruption. The +sensitiveness of Strokr is due to its peculiar form. An observer +states that, "The bore is eight feet in diameter at the top, and +forty-four feet deep. Below twenty-seven feet it contracts to +nineteen inches, so that the turf thrown in completely chokes it. +Steam collects below; a foaming scum covers the surface of the +water, and in a quarter of an hour it surges up the pipe. The +fountain then begins playing, sending its bundles of jets rather +higher than those of the Great Geyser, flinging up the clods of +turf which have been its obstruction like a number of rockets. +This magnificent display continues for a quarter of an hour or +twenty minutes. The erupted water flows back into the pipe from +the curved sides of the bowl. This occasions a succession of +bursts, the last expiring effort, very generally, being the most +magnificent. Strokr gives no warning thumps, like the Great +Geyser, and there is not the same roaring of steam accompanying the +outbreak of the water." + +The same author thus describes an eruption of the Great Geyser, +which occurred about two o'clock in the morning: "A violent +concussion of the ground brought me and my companions to our feet. +We rushed out of the tent in every condition of dishabille and were +in time to see Geyser put forth his full strength. Five strokes +underground were the signal, then an overflow, wetting every side +of the mound. Presently a dome of water rose in the centre of the +basin and fell again, immediately to be followed by a fresh bell, +which sprang into the air fully forty feet high, accompanied by a +roaring burst of steam. Instantly the fountain began to play with +the utmost violence, a column rushing up to the height of ninety or +one hundred feet against the gray night sky, with mighty volumes of +white steam cloud rolling after it and swept off by the breeze to +fall in torrents of hot rain. Jets and lines of water tore their +way through the clouds, or leaped high above its domed mass. The +earth trembled and throbbed during the explosion, then the column +sank, started up again, dropped once more, and seemed to be sucked +back into the earth. We ran to the basin, which was left dry, and +looked down the bore at the water, which was bubbling at the depth +of six feet." + +In the case of Strokr, the cause of this eruption is not difficult +to understand. The narrow part of the channel is choked up by the +turf and the steam, and prevented from escaping. Finally it gains +such force as to drive out the obstacle with a violent explosion, +just as a bottle of fermenting liquor may blow out the cork and +discharge some of its contents. + +Geysers are somewhat abundant phenomena, existing in many parts of +the earth, while striking examples of them are found in the widely +separated regions of Iceland, New Zealand, Japan and the western +United States. In the volcanic region of New Zealand geysers and +their associated hot springs are abundant. It was to their action +that we owed the famous white and pink terraces and the warm lake +of Rotomahana which were ruined by the destructive eruption of +Mount Tarawera, already described. + + +GEYSERS OF THE UNITED STATES + + +The United States is abundantly supplied with hot springs, but +geysers, outside of the Yellowstone region, are found only in +California and Nevada. Those of California exist chiefly in Napa +Valley, north of San Francisco, in a canon or defile. Their waters +are impregnated not with silica, but with sulphur, and they thus +approach more nearly in their character to mud-volcanoes, whose +ejections are, in like manner, much impregnated with that +substance. They are also, like them, collected in groups, there +being no less than one hundred openings within a space of flat +ground a mile square. Owing to their number and proximity, their +individual energy is nothing like so violent as that of the geysers +of Iceland. Their jets seldom rise higher than 20 or 30 feet; but +so great a number playing within so confined a space produces an +imposing effect. The jets of boiling water issue with a loud noise +from little conical mounds, around which the ground is merely a +crust of sulphur. When this crust is penetrated, the boiling water +may be seen underneath. The rocks in the neighborhood of these +fountains are all corroded by the action of the sulphurous vapors. +Nevertheless, within a distance of not more than 50 feet from them, +trees grow without injury to their health. + +Few of these fountains, however, are regular geysers, most of them +discharging only steam. From the Steamboat Geyser this ascends to +a height of from 50 to 100 feet, with a roar like that of the +escape from a steamboat boiler. Associated with the geysers are +numerous hot springs, some clear, some turbid, and variously +impregnated with iron, sulphur or alum. In Nevada the Steamboat +Springs, as they are designated, exist in Washoe Valley, east of +the Virginian range. They come nearer in character to the +Yellowstone geysers, their waters depositing true geyserite, or +silicious concretions. The Volcano Springs, in Lauder County, are +also true geysers, though of small importance. The ground here is +so thickly perforated by holes from which steam escapes that it +looks like a cullender. + + +THE YELLOWSTONE GEYSERS + + +The most remarkable geyser country in the world, alike for the size +and the number of its spouting fountains, is the Yellowstone region +in the northwest part of the Territory of Wyoming, in the United +States, which, by a special act of Congress, has been reserved as +the Yellowstone National Park, exempt from settlement, purchase or +pre-emption. Here nearly every form of geyser and unintermittent +hot spring occurs, with deposits of various kinds, silicious, +calcareous, etc. Of the hot springs, Dr. Peale enumerates 2,195, +and considers that within the limits of the park--which is about 54 +miles by 62 miles, and includes 3,312 square miles--as many as +3,000 actually exist. The same geologist notes the existence of 71 +geysers in the area mentioned, though some of the number are only +inferred to be spouting springs from the form of their basins and +the character of the surrounding deposits. Of this vast collection +of still and eruptive springs, between which there seems every +gradation, those which do not send water into the air are, owing to +the magnificent cascades which they form, often quite as remarkable +as those which take the shape of geysers. The more striking of the +latter may, however, be briefly mentioned. + +In the Gibbon Basin is a geyser of late origin. In 1878 this +consisted of two steam holes, roaring on the side of a hill, that +looked as if they had recently burst through the surface; and the +gully leading towards the ravine was at that date filled with sand, +which appeared to have been poured out during an eruption. Dead +trees stood on the line of this sand floor, and others, with their +bark still remaining, and even with their foliage not lost, were +uprooted hard by, everything indicating that the "steamboat vent," +as it was called, was of recent formation. In 1875 it had no +existence, but in 1879 the spouting spring--which first opened, it +is believed, on the 11th of August in the preceding year--had +"settled down to business as a very powerful flowing geyser," with +a double period; one eruption occurring every half hour, and +projecting water to the height of 30 feet; the main eruption +occurring every six or seven days, with long continued action, and +a column of nearly 100 feet. + +The New Geyser in the same basin is also of quite recent origin. +It consists of two fissures in the rock, in which the water boils +vigorously. But there is no mound, and the rocks of the fissure +are just beginning to get a coating of the silicious geyserite +deposited from the water, so that it cannot long have been +spouting. Again, in the Grotto Geyser--in the Upper Geyser Basin +of Fire Hole River--the main or larger crater is hollowed into +fantastic arches, beneath which are the grotto-like cavities from +which it is named, which act as lateral orifices for the escape of +water during an eruption. It plays several times in the course of +the twenty-four hours, and sends a column of water sixty feet high, +the eruption lasting an hour. As yet, however, the force of the +water has not been sufficient, or of sufficiently long duration, to +break through the arches covering the basin or crater. The +Excelsior--claimed to be the largest of its order, which sent water +nearly 300 feet into the air at intervals of about five hours, and +of such volume as to wash away bridges over small streams below-- +was not, until comparatively recent years, known as a specially +powerful geyser. But if it had for a time waned in importance, its +immense crater, 330 feet in length and 200 feet at the widest part, +shows that at a still earlier date it was a gigantic fountain. In +this deep pit, when the breeze wafted aside the clouds of steam +constantly arising from its surface, the water could be seen +seething 15 or 20 feet below the surrounding level. Yet into the +cauldron of boiling water a little stream of cold water, from the +melting snow of the uplands, ran unceasingly. Since 1888 this +great geyser has been inactive. + +The Castle Geyser is so named on account of the fancied resemblance +which its mound of white and grey deposit presents to the ruins of +a feudal keep, the crater itself being placed on a cone or turret, +which has a somewhat imposing appearance compared with the other +geysers in the neighborhood. It throws a column usually about +fifty or sixty feet high, at intervals of two or three hours, but +sometimes the discharge shoots up much higher. + +The Giant, in the Upper Geyser Basin, has a peculiar crater, which +has been likened to the stump of a hollow sycamore tree of gigantic +proportions, whose top has been wrenched off by a storm. This +curious cup is broken down at one side, as though it had been torn +away during an eruption of more than ordinary violence, and on this +side the visitor is able to look into the crater, if he can +contrive to avoid the jets which are constantly spouted from it. +The periods of rest which it takes are varied, an eruption often +not occurring for several days at a time; yet when it breaks out it +continues playing for more than three hours, with a volume of water +reaching a height of from 130 to 140 feet. In the interval little +spouts are constantly in progess. Mr. Stanley saw one eruption +which he calculated to have shot a column of water to the height of +more than 200 feet. At first it seemed as though the geyser was +only making a feint, the discharge which preceded the great one +being merely repeated several times, followed by a cessation both +of the rumbling noises and of the ejection of water. But soon, +after a premonitory cloud of steam, the geyser began to work in +earnest, the column discharged rising higher and higher, until it +reached the altitude mentioned. + +"At first it appeared to labor in raising the immense volume, which +seemed loath to start on its heavenward tour; but it was with +perfect ease that the stupendous column was held to its place, the +water breaking into jets and returning in glittering showers to the +basin. The steam ascended in dense volumes for thousands of feet, +when it was freighted on the wings of the winds and borne away in +clouds. The fearful rumble and confusion attending it were as the +sound of distant artillery, the rushing of many horses to battle, +or the roar of a fearful tornado. It commenced to act at 2 P. M., +and continued for an hour and a half, the latter part of which it +emitted little else than steam, rushing upward from its chambers +below, of which, if controlled, there was enough to run an engine +of wonderful power. The waving to and fro of such a gigantic +fountain, when the column is at its height, + + + 'Tinselled o'er in robes of varying hues,' + + +and glistening in the bright sunlight, which adorns it with the +glowing colors of many a gorgeous rainbow, affords a spectacle so +wonderful and grandly magnificent, so overwhelming to the mind, +that the ablest attempt at description gives the reader who has +never witnessed such a display but a feeble idea of its glory." + + +A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEYSER AT WORK + + +The only other geysers in this remarkable geyserland which we can +spare room to notice are those known as the Giantess, the Beehive, +and the Grand. The Giantess sends a column of water to the height +of 250 feet. An eruption is usually divided into three periods-- +two preliminary efforts and a final one, divided from each other by +intervals of between one and two hours, while the intervals of +discharge are very long. Sometimes it does not play for several +weeks. The Beehive, which is 400 feet from the Giantess, gets its +name from the peculiar beehive-like cone which it has formed. The +eruption is also almost unique. It is heralded by a slight escape +of steam, which is followed by a column of steam and water, +shooting to the height of over 200 feet. The column is somewhat +fan-shaped, but it does not fall in rain, the spray being +evaporated and carried off as steam--if, indeed, there is not more +steam than water in the column. The duration of the discharge is +between four and five minutes, and the interval between two +eruptions from twenty-one to twenty-five hours. + +The Grand is one of the most important in the Upper Geyser basin. +Yet, unlike the Grotto, the Giant, or the Old Faithful,--so called +from its frequent and regular eruptions--it has no raised cone or +crater, and a much less cavernous bowl than the Giantess and other +geysers. The column discharged ascends to the height of from +eighty to two hundred feet, and the eruptions last from fifteen +minutes to three-quarters of an hour, with intervals on an average +of from seven to twenty hours. This fountain is apparently very +irregular in its action, though it is just possible that when the +Yellowstone geysers have been more consecutively studied, it will +be found that these seeming irregularities depend on the varying +supplies of water at different times of the year. + + +THE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS + + +The marvellous phenomena of the Yellowstone region are not confined +to geyser action, hot springs of steady flow being, as above +stated, exceedingly numerous. Of these the most striking are those +known as the Mammoth Hot Springs, whose waters find their way +through underground passages, finally flowing from an opening as +the "Boiling River," which empties into the Gardiner River. + +These springs are marvels of beauty. Their terraced bowls, adorned +with delicate fret-work, are among the finest specimens of Nature's +handiwork in the world, and the colored waters themselves are +startling in their brilliancy. Red, pink, black, canary, green, +saffron, blue, chocolate, and all their intermediate gradations are +found here in exquisite harmony. The springs rise in terraces of +various heights and widths, having intermingled with their delicate +shades chalk-like cliffs, soft and crumbly, these latter being the +remains of springs from which the life and beauty have departed. +The great spring is the largest in the country, the water flowing +through three openings into a basin forty feet long by twenty-five +feet wide. From this the hot mineral waters drip over into lower +basins, of gracefully curved and scalloped outline, the minerals +deposited on the lips of the basin forming stalagmites of +variegated hue, yielding a brilliant and beautiful effect. The +terraced basins bear a close resemblance to the former New Zealand +pink and white terraces, and since the annihilation of the latter +are the most charming examples in existence of this rare form of +Nature's artistic handiwork. + + + + + +End of The Project Gutenberg Etext of The San Francisco Calamity + diff --git a/old/sfclm10.zip b/old/sfclm10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a6ee6c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/sfclm10.zip |
