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diff --git a/15147-8.txt b/15147-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..926862c --- /dev/null +++ b/15147-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14364 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Beeton's Book of Needlework + +Author: Isabella Beeton + +Release Date: February 22, 2005 [EBook #15147] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEETON'S BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK *** + + + + +Produced by Julie Barkley and the PG Online Distributed Proofreading +Team. + + + + + + + BEETON'S BOOK + + OF + + NEEDLEWORK. + + + + + CONSISTING OF + + DESCRIPTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS, + + ILLUSTRATED BY + + SIX HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS, + + OF TATTING PATTERNS. + + CROCHET PATTERNS. + + KNITTING PATTERNS. + + NETTING PATTERNS. + + EMBROIDERY PATTERNS. + + POINT LACE PATTERNS. + + GUIPURE D'ART. + + BERLIN WORK. + + MONOGRAMS. + + INITIALS AND NAMES. + + PILLOW LACE, AND LACE STITCHES. + + + + +_Every Pattern and Stitch Described and Engraved with the utmost +Accuracy, and the Exact Quantity of Material requisite for each Pattern +stated._ + + + +CHANCELLOR PRESS + + + +_Beeton's Book of Needlework_ was originally published in Great Britain +in 1870 by Ward, Lock and Tyler. + + + + + +This facsimile edition published in Great + +Britain in 1986 by + +Chancellor Press + +59 Grosvenor Street London W 1 + + + + + +Printed in Czechoslovakia 50617 + + + + + +SAMUEL BUTLER'S PREFACE + + +The Art of Needlework dates from the earliest record of the world's +history, and has, also, from time immemorial been the support, comfort, +or employment of women of every rank and age. Day by day, it increases +its votaries, who enlarge and develop its various branches, so that any +addition and assistance in teaching or learning Needlework will be +welcomed by the Daughters of England, "wise of heart," who work +diligently with their hands. + +The recent introduction of Point Lace has brought a finer, and, +apparently, more difficult class of fancy work into general favour. +Ladies may now, however, confidently commence, with our patterns before +them, to reproduce Antique laces; for care and patience, with a +knowledge of Point Lace stitches, are alone required to perfect the +beautiful work, which, as shown in existing specimens of exquisite Old +Lace, constitute the chief glory of women's refined industry in past +centuries. + +INSTRUCTIONS in TATTING, in EMBROIDERY, in CROCHET, in KNITTING and +NETTING, in BERLIN WOOL WORK, in POINT LACE, and GUIPURE D'ART are +prefixed to the pages devoted to these separate branches of needlework. +The whole work is interspersed with coloured and other Patterns in Point +Lace, Guipure d'Art, Tatting, Embroidery, and Designs for Monograms and +Initials for marking handkerchiefs and table-linen. The quantity of +materials required for each class of work is also given with every +pattern. + +The idea of combining a series of minute and exact instructions in fancy +needlework with useful patterns was conceived some years ago by one +whose life was devoted to the inculcation of the practical duties of +woman's life, and to assisting her sex in their daily work of HOUSEHOLD +MANAGEMENT and REFINEMENT. + +Her great wish was that her BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK should be as valuable in +its way to her Countrywomen as her work upon Household Management was +useful in showing the best mode of providing for the diurnal wants of +families. Other hands have brought to a conclusion her original plans. +The best attainable workers have contributed to this volume. Only those +who knew the extent of the late Mrs. Beeton's design, will miss, in the +pages now before them, "the touch of a vanished hand." + +S.O.B. + +_Paternoster Row,_ 1870. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +TATTING INSTRUCTIONS + +TATTING PATTERNS + +EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS + +EMBROIDERY PATTERNS + +CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS + +CROCHET PATTERNS + +KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS + +NETTING INSTRUCTIONS + +KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS + +ALPHABETS FOR MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS + +MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS + +POINT LACE WORK + +POINT LACE INSTRUCTIONS + +POINT LACE PATTERNS + +INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS IN GUIPURE D'ART + +BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS + +TATTING. + + + + +TATTING + + +INSTRUCTIONS + +[Illustration: Tatting Shuttle.] + +The needlework called Tatting in England, _Frivolité_ in French, and +_Frivolitäten_ in German, is a work which seems, from all accounts, to +have been in favour several generations ago. Modern ingenuity has +discovered some ways of improving on the original plan of tatting, which +was, indeed, rather a primitive sort of business as first practised. To +Mrs. Mee, one of our most accomplished _artistes_ in all matters +connected with the work-table, belongs, we believe, the introduction of +the plan of working from the reel instead of the shuttle. By this +alteration the advantage of the shuttle being constantly kept filled +with cotton was gained, and the necessity also obviated for frequently +joining the thread; and to Mdlle. Riego, equally distinguished in all +details appertaining to the employment of the needle, ladies are +indebted for an arrangement by which the same thread used in the making +of the pattern is used for fastening the work. The old plan only +provided for the working of the different portions which constituted the +pattern, and then these portions had to be sewn together with a needle +and thread. The ingenious workers on the Continent have also given much +attention of late to the art of tatting, and our instructions now +printed comprise what we consider the best mode of learning and doing +this exceedingly interesting and fashionable work. + +[Illustration: Tatting Pin.] + +Tatting differs entirely from crochet, and is composed of stitches +forming _knots_. It is intended as an imitation of point lace, and is +especially used for trimming under-linen, on account of its strength. + +To make the stitches or knots a small instrument is used, called a +_shuttle_. This shuttle consists of two oval pieces, flat on one side +and convex on the other, and is made of wood or ivory. + +The two oval pieces are joined together by a strong cross-piece. The +illustration shows the construction of the shuttle. These shuttles are +made in ivory, pearl, tortoiseshell inlaid with pearl, and silver; they +are also manufactured in coloured bone, black, red, and white. The best +to work with are the pearl for a white shuttle, and the inlaid +tortoiseshell for a black shuttle; the prices vary from sixpence to one +shilling and two-and-sixpence each. In selecting a shuttle be careful to +see that the ends close, as if dropped it soon becomes unthreaded, which +is very inconvenient. The cotton intended for the work is wound round +this shuttle, and the thickness of the cotton varies according to the +style of work. It is better to use the proper tatting cotton, because it +is stronger than the ordinary kinds; this is manufactured by Messrs. +Walter Evans and Co. for the purpose. Their Boar's Head Cotton is also +frequently used, and answers very well. + + +_Shuttles._ + +These are made in 3 sizes:--Finest, No. 1; No. 2, useful medium size; +No. 3, the largest. + + +_The Way to Hold the Hands._ + +Take the shuttle in the right hand, between the thumb and second finger, +and allow the forefinger to remain at liberty, and rest the under part +of the shuttle _between_ the second and third and _on_ the middle +finger. Place the thread round the three middle fingers of the left +hand, so as to form a loop, keeping the second and third fingers a +little apart, and bring the cotton again between the thumb and +forefinger, letting the end fall within the palm of the hand, while the +end of cotton which holds on to the shuttle passes over the thumb-nail. + + +_To Make a Stitch._ + +Keep the hands in the position above described; pass the shuttle at the +back, through the loop--that is, between the second and third fingers. +Take the end of the shuttle which comes out from the loop between the +forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and strain the cotton very +tightly towards the right. When the cotton is drawn through the loop, +this cotton must not be impeded by the fourth finger; it should, on the +contrary, slide over it, and be drawn tight. It should divide the loop +into two parts. After this withdraw the second left-hand finger, which +is _above_ the cotton, and pass it again under that cotton, so as to +draw up the loop. A _half-stitch_ is thus formed, and must be tightened +by being drawn closely to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand. For +the remaining half of the stitch keep the hands in the same position, +but, instead of letting the cotton fall over the thumb, pass this cotton +over the back of the hand; then let the shuttle fall between the second +and third fingers of the left hand, in front, and take it out again at +the back, strain the cotton very tightly, withdraw the second finger +from the loop, letting the cotton which is behind the hand sweep over +the fingers. When this is done, guide with the unoccupied fingers of the +left hand this second half-stitch up to the other, thus completing _one +stitch_. + + +_The Way to Make a Loop in Tatting._ + +When a certain number of stitches are made, very tightly draw in the +loop by straining the cotton until the first stitch touches the last, +and thus a loop is formed. During this process the stitches should be +held tightly between the forefinger and thumb. + + +_The Way to Make a Purl._ + +A _purl_ is a small loop of cotton often used as an edging in tatting, +as, for instance, round the outer edge of the ovals in tatted insertion +No. 2. The following is the easiest method of making a purl:--The +stitches are not made quite closely together at the place where a purl +is to be made; about one-sixth of an inch is left between each. This +space is left free until the loop is made by uniting the stitches; then +the small piece of cotton in the space bulges out between the stitches, +and forms the purl. If several are required a small space is left +between every two or three stitches, according to the desired number. +Care must be taken in that case that the small pieces of cotton left be +all of the same length, so that the purl may be perfectly even. The purl +can also be made thus: At the same time with the end of thread take the +tatting-pin or a very large darning needle or knitting needle in the +left hand, so that the point may come out farther than the row of +stitches; if then you wish to make a purl, throw the cotton on the pin +before making the stitch; then fasten this stitch, and push it at once +close to the preceding; the pin with the cotton should come above the +stitches. Do not take out the pin before all the purl and all the +stitches are completed and joined together. + + +_Joining the Work._ + +Place the tatting-pin in the loop that is to be joined, and with the +hook draw the thread of the loop--that is, round the hand through +it--pass the shuttle through this loop, and draw it up tightly close to +the stitches. + +A "straight" or double thread is used to join various parts of the work, +and forms very beautiful patterns. Without the straight thread we +should be unable to imitate point lace patterns, or, indeed, to execute +any designs but those composed of circles, ovals, &c. To use this +straight thread 2 shuttles are required; they should be of different +colours. Sometimes one end of thread is left attached to the reel +instead of using the second shuttle. In commencing a loop the straight +thread is held between the second and third fingers of the left hand, +about 2 or 3 inches from the work; the other shuttle is held as usual in +the right hand, and the stitches and purls worked with it upon the +foundation of the straight thread of the second shuttle. + + * * * * * + + +TATTING. + + +1.--_Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting._ + +[Illustration: I.--Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting.] + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 80, or +tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3; a small shuttle. + +This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton as follows:--1st +circle: 2 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. + +2nd circle: 3 double, join it to the last purl of the 1st circle, 1 +double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton up. + +3rd circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 2nd circle, 1 +double, join it to the 7th purl of the 2nd circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 +times, 2 double, draw the cotton up. + +4th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 3rd circle, 3 double, +1 purl, 1 double 7 times, 1 double, draw the cotton up. + +5th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 4th circle, 2 double, +1 purl, 1 double 3 times, draw up the cotton. + +6th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 5th circle, 1 +double, join it to the 5th purl of the preceding circle, 1 double, 1 +purl 6 times, 1 double, join it to the first purl of the 1st circle, 2 +double, draw up the cotton. This completes the star pattern in centre of +pine. + +1st circle of pine: 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 8 times, 2 double, draw +up the cotton. + +2nd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 1st circle, 1 double, +join it to the 7th purl of 1st circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 +double, draw up the cotton and join it to the 3rd purl of centre star. + +3rd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 2nd circle, 1 double, 1 +purl 8 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it on to the centre +purl of 2nd circle in star. + +4th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 3rd circle, 1 double, 1 +purl 5 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it +to the 5th purl of 2nd centre circle in star. + +5th circle: 2 double, join the cotton to the last purl of 4th circle, 1 +double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton, repeat the 5th +circle twice more, then join the cotton to the centre purl of 4th circle +in star. + +8th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 7th circle, 1 purl,1 +double 5 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the centre +purl of 5th circle in star. + +9th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 8th circle, 1 double, 1 +purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. Repeat the 9th circle 3 +times. + +13th circle: 3 double, join the cotton to the last purl of the 12th +circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 4 double, draw up the cotton, turn the +work downwards, and work the + +14th circle: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, join it to the 1st purl of the +1st circle of pine, 1 double, join it to the 2nd purl of first pine +circle,1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. + +15th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 13th circle, 1 +double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton. + +16th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 15th circle, 1 +double, 1 purl 4 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, draw up the cotton. + +17th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 16th circle, 1 +double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. + +18th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 17th circle, 1 +double, 1 purl 8 times, 1 double, draw up the cotton, and repeat from +commencement until the collar is the required size. The upper part of +the pines is filled in with lace stitches, as clearly shown in our +illustration. + + * * * * * + +2.--_Tatted Insertion._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30, or +Boar's Head crochet cotton No. 12; tatting pin No. 2; large shuttle. + +[Illustration: 2.--Tatted Insertion.] + +This insertion should be worked with coarse cotton. 5 double *, 1 purl, +2 double, repeat from * 4 times, 1 purl, 5 double, draw up the cotton, +turn the pattern downward, and work another circle the same as that +above described, leaving one-sixth of an inch of cotton between each +circle. + + * * * * * + +3.--_Lace Edging in Tatting._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10, or +tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a finer +edging, No. 18. + +1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a +double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1 +purl, 10 double; draw up. + +Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left +hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double. + +[Illustration: 3.--Lace Edging in Tatting.] + +2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl in 1st oval, 10 double; draw up. + +The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that the +next oval be close to the last. + +Crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 7 chain, 1 double into +the purl in double thread. Repeat. + + * * * * * + +4.--_Lace Edging in Tatting._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10, or +tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a finer +edging, No. 18. + +[Illustration: 4.--Lace Edging in Tatting.] + +1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a +double thread is required, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1 +purl, 10 double stitches, draw up. + +2nd oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, 1 purl, 10 double; draw +up. + +Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left +hand, work 12 double, 1 purl, 4 double; then join the shuttle-thread to +the purl in 2nd oval, by drawing it through with a pin. Then do another +similar chain of stitches with the double thread, viz., 4 double, 1 +purl, 12 double. + +3rd oval: 10 double, join to the purl in 2nd oval--the same as that to +which the shuttle-thread has been fastened--10 double; draw up. + +4th oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, +10 double, draw up. + +The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that the +next oval be close to the last. Crochet a heading with the same cotton, +working 4 chain, 1 double into the purl of double thread, 6 chain, 1 +double into the next purl. Repeat. + + * * * * * + +5.--_Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or +crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2; a bone shuttle. + +[Illustration: 5.--Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging.] + +Work * 4 double stitches (that is, 4 times following 1 purled stitch and +1 plain), 1 purl, four times following 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 +double stitches, draw up the cotton so as to form an oval, and for the +smaller oval, work 9 double stitches, but leave, before beginning the +first double stitch, the space of one-sixth of an inch between this oval +and the preceding; repeat from *, leaving the same space between each +oval; join together the larger ovals by the purl. + +For the crochet edging, work the 1st row in the following manner:-- + +1 double (followed by 6 chain) in each of the smaller ovals. The 2nd and +3rd rows are composed of short treble stitches, placed one above the +other, and divided by one chain. While working the short treble stitches +of the 3rd row form the small purl thus:-- + +* 1 short treble in the first short treble of preceding row, let the +loop slip off from the crochet needle, insert the needle in the under +stitch, from which comes the loop now made into a purl, work 1 double in +the first short treble of preceding row, 1 chain, under which miss 1 +stitch, and repeat from *. + + * * * * * + +6.--_Border in Tatting with Crochet._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20, or +tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2. For a coarser size use Boar's +Head cotton No. 4, or tatting cotton No. 20. + +[Illustration: 6.--Border in Tatting with Crochet.] + +4 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 times following, 3 double stitches, 1 purl, +4 double stitches, draw up the oval, but not quite tight, leave a space +about one-sixth of an inch, leave a similar space between this oval and +the next, work 3 double stitches, fasten them to the nearest purl of +preceding oval, then work twice following 4 double stitches, 1 purl, +then 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 3 double stitches, and draw up the oval + + * * * * * + +7.--_Tatted Insertion._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head crochet cotton No. +18; tatting-pin No. 3. + +This strip of insertion is worked with crochet cotton, and consists of +a row of circles, two of which are always joined together, and edged on +either side with chain stitches. Work first * 2 double, 4 purl divided +by 1 double, 1 double, 1 long purl about one-fifth of an inch long, 10 +double divided by 1 purl, 1 long purl, 4 times alternately 1 double, 1 +purl, then 2 double; join the stitches into a circle; work close to this +a second circle, and knot the end of the cotton together with the cotton +with which the first circle has been begun; repeat from *, but +henceforward in the first of the two circles fasten the cotton on to the +middle purl of the preceding circle, instead of working the middle purl. +When the strip of insertion is sufficiently long, edge it on either side +with a row of chain stitches, by working 1 double in 1 long purl and 5 +chain between. + +[Illustration: 7.--Tatted Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +8.--_Rosette in Tatting._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +This rosette is worked with two cottons, viz., 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, +5 double, 1 purl, 10 double, 1 purl, 1 plain; turn the work downwards, +10 double, fastened on the last purl turned downwards; this forms one +loop turned upwards; turn work downwards, 10 double, 1 purl, 5 double, +fastened on first purl turned downwards; turn figure thus formed +downwards; 4 double, 1 single, repeat 4 times more from *, joining the +figures by means of the purl stitch; the ends of the cotton are knotted +together. + +[Illustration: 8.--Rosette in Tatting.] + + * * * * * + +9.--_Star in Tatting._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 9.--Star in Tatting.] + +Fill the shuttle, and commencing a loop, work 1 double, then 1 purl and +1 double 12 times, draw into a round; join the cotton to the 1st purl +loop. 1st oval.--Commence a loop close to the joining, work 7 double, +join to 1st purl of round, work 7 double and draw close; reverse the +work. Join the thread from reel, and holding it out for a straight +thread, commence the scallop:-- + +5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, reverse the work. The 2nd oval same as +first. Repeat oval and scallop alternately, until the star is completed. + + * * * * * + +10.--_Insertion worked in Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 10.--Insertion worked in Tatting.] + +This strip of insertion is worked with two cottons. Work with the cotton +in the left hand over that in the right hand. Both ends of cotton are +fastened together at the beginning by a knot. First work one half of the +insertion the long way in the following manner:--1 plain, 1 purl, 1 +plain (the purl must be very short); turn the purl downwards, 6 double, +1 purl, * 6 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, which must all be turned upwards; +then turn the work so that the upper edge is turned downwards; work 6 +double, fastened on to the last purl turned downwards (the fastening of +the stitches is made with the thread in the right hand); a loop turned +upwards is thus formed; turn the work downwards, draw the cotton in +right hand underneath that in left hand, and work 6 double, 1 purl, 6 +double, all turned upwards; fasten these stitches on 1st purl turned +downwards. In this pattern 1st of border pattern is thus completed; +turn it downwards, 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, turn +work downwards, 6 double, fastened on last purl of last pattern, turned +up. Repeat from *. When the insertion is of sufficient length, work the +other half in same manner, and fasten it on the 1st half by means of +purl stitches between the 8 double stitches twice repeated. + + * * * * * + +11.--_Tatted Insertion for Trimming Lingeries_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or +crochet cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 11.--Tatted Insertion.] + +This insertion consists of 2 rows of three-branched patterns which lie +opposite each other, and are joined by slanting rows of knots. A +coloured silk ribbon is drawn through these rows which join the +patterns. Each of the 3 branches of 1 pattern consists of 9 double, 1 +purl, 9 double, and must be worked close to another. When the 3rd branch +is completed, fasten another piece of cotton on to the middle branch. +Work 12 double over this 2nd piece of cotton, and then work without the +2nd piece of cotton a 2nd three-branched pattern like the 1st.* Fasten +the 2nd piece of cotton on to the middle branch of the just-finished +pattern, work 12 double over it, then again a three-branched pattern; +in this pattern as well as in the following ones, instead of working the +purl of the 1st branch, fasten it on to the purl of the 3rd branch of +the preceding three-branched pattern of the _same_ row, as can be seen +in illustration. Repeat till the strip of insertion is sufficiently +long. + + * * * * * + +12.--_Circle in Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 12.--Circle in Tatting.] + +Work first 8 ovals, each composed of 5 double stitches, 3 purl divided +one from the other by 4 double stitches, 5 double stitches; these ovals +are joined together by the purl at the sides, then the circle is +tightened as much as possible, and the cotton with which you are working +is twisted round the ends of cotton that have been cut: the cotton is +then fastened off nearly underneath. + +Begin a fresh small oval, composed of 12 double stitches, which should +be fastened to the preceding oval after 3 double stitches (to the purl +in the centre of the first oval), then fasten it again to the purl which +joins together the first and the second oval; leave a space of about +one-fourth of an inch, and work an oval composed of 4 double stitches, 5 +purl, followed each by 2 double stitches, 4 double stitches. A very +little farther off make a very small oval, composed of 8 double +stitches, which after the four first double stitches is joined to the +centre purl of the second oval, leaving the same space between as +before, make another oval of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, each followed by +2 double stitches, 4 double stitches; but the first purl is _missed_, +because at this place the oval is joined to the fifth purl of the +corresponding oval; once more leave a space of one-fourth of an inch, +and repeat. At the end of the round the two ends of cotton are tied +tightly together. + + * * * * * + +13.--_Tatted Border with Beads_. + +Materials: Black purse silk, or, for white trimming, Messrs. Walter +Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 2; tatting-pin No. 3; 3 hanks of +beads No. 4 to the yard of border. + +[Illustration: 13.--Tatted Border with Beads.] + +This border, edged with beads No. 4, is worked in middling-size purse +silk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk. Before +beginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take the place of +purl stitches, and which are slipped in between two double stitches. +When the row of stitches is of the length required, form the trefoil +leaves, and sew a few beads over the places where they are joined. These +trefoil leaves are made separately, and then sewn together. + + * * * * * + +14.--_Insertion in Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10; +tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18 or +20. + +[Illustration: 14.--Insertion in Tatting.] + +1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a +double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1 +purl, 10 double, draw up. + +Double thread: Putting the thread attached to +the reel round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double. + +2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up. +Repeat till the length required is worked, then cut off. + +For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the insertion, +the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence by working-- + +1st oval: 10 double, join to the purl which connects the first and +second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Double +thread: 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double. + +2nd oval: 10 double, join to the same purl as last--namely, the one +connecting the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 +double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two next ovals to the purl which +connects the two next in the piece already worked, and so on. + +Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl of +double thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only, this makes a +pretty wide edging. + + * * * * * + +15.--_Border in Tatting and Crochet_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, and +crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 15.--Border in Tatting and Crochet.] + +This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops and +treble stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as follows: Make a +circle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8 double. This circle is +repeated at a distance of about three-fourths of an inch, only instead +of the 1st purl each following circle must be fastened on to the last +purl of the preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which must +be finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double +stitches over the thread which joins the circles. The number of stitches +depends on the length and size of the cotton; work double stitches round +the circles at the place where both ends meet. The outer row consists of +treble stitches, which are worked with 1 chain stitch between, missing 1 +stitch under each chain. The scallops consist of the two following +rows:--1 double, with which the last and first purl of 2 circles are +joined, 4 chain; in each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2 +double stitches. + +2nd row: 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1 double, 3 long double, +1 double. + + * * * * * + +16 _and_ 17.--_Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting_. + +[Illustration: 16.--Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting.] + +This veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim of the +bonnet. It is tied at the back under the chignon. The veil is of black +silk net. The flowrets are tatted with black purse silk, and worked in +appliqué over the tulle. The veil is edged round with a tatted lace made +with the same silk. For the patterns and lace and instructions, see +Nos. 18 and 19. No. 16 shows the way in which the veil is worn upon the +bonnet, and No. 17 shows its shape when stretched out. + + * * * * * + +18 _and_ 19.--_Patterns in Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 120 for a +white veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin No. 2. + +[Illustration: 17.--Shape of Veil.] + +[Illustration: 18.--Tatting Pattern for Veil (16).] + +[Illustration: 19--Tatting Pattern for Veil (16).] + +The patterns Nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil No. 16. +They are sewn upon the net at regular distances. + +For working the pattern No. 18, make with black silk or white cotton 6 +times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl, then join the +stitch into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next purl. Then 1 spot +or Josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain stitches, carry the shuttle +downwards through the loop, and draw the stitches close together; repeat +3 times more from *. Fasten the silk on to the next purl, and work a +circle as follows:--8 times 2 double, divided by 1 purl; fasten the silk +on to the next purl, work again 1 spot, after which the silk is +fastened, then work 2 more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they are +fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1st +purl. Fasten off the silk after the last circle. + +For No. 19 work 25 double, divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a +circle, knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together, cut off +the ends at a short distance. Then work a smaller circle, consisting of +8 double, divided by 1 purl; at the place of the 1st purl fasten the +cotton at a short distance on to the 2nd purl of the large circle. The +ends of this circle are knotted together and cut off in the same way. +Then work a circle consisting of 11 double, fasten the silk on to the +20th purl of the large circle, work 5 double, and join the stitches into +a circle. Then take the ends of the 3 circles, and work close fine +stitches with silk round them, so as to form the stem. The completed +pattern is sewn upon the net. + + * * * * * + +20 _and_ 21.--_Diamond Pattern and Circle in Tatting, for Trimming Linen +Collars, Cuffs, &c_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No 30; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +20.--DIAMOND PATTERN.--Work, not far one from the other, four leaves, +each composed of 5 double stitches, 7 rather long purl divided one from +the other by 2 double stitches, 5 double stitches. Instead of making the +1st purl in each of the 3 next leaves, fasten the cotton to the last +leaf of preceding leaf. Fasten off and cut the cotton; begin a fresh +circle by 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more +double stitches; fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the four +leaves, and work a very small circle thus:--2 double stitches, fasten +the cotton to the last purl of the first circle, 3 double stitches, 1 +purl, 2 double stitches; fasten the cotton * to the 6th purl of the +leaf; work a larger circle thus:--2 double stitches fastened to the purl +of the small circle, 2 double stitches, 4 purl divided by 2 double +stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the +second purl of the second leaf; work another small circle similar to +that above-described; fasten the cotton to the third purl of the second +leaf, then to the fourth purl of the same leaf, and repeat from * three +times more, always fastening the first purl of the first circle you are +working (each time you repeat the pattern) to the purl of the last small +circle last worked; fasten off and cut the cotton. + +[Illustration: 20.--Diamond in Tatting.] + +[Illustration: 21.--Circle in Tatting.] + + * * * * * + +21.--CIRCLE.--Begin it in the centre by working a circle of 8 purl, +rather long, divided one from the other by 2 double stitches. After you +have fastened off and cut the cotton, work * one very small circle +composed of 3 double stitches, 1 long purl, 3 double stitches; fasten +the cotton not far off to the first purl of the circle, and repeat from +* 7 times more, at regular distances. Fasten off and cut the cotton, and +begin * a fresh circle of 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided each by 2 +double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl +of the very small circle, and work, not far off, a circle of 2 double +stitches, 2 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; +fasten the cotton to the purl of the next small circle, and repeat from +* 7 times more. Instead of making the first purl of the next large +circle, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the small circle. + + * * * * * + +22.--_Border in Tatting and Crochet_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 22.--Border in Tatting and Crochet.] + +Begin this border with one of the smaller circles consisting of * 3 +double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; work a large circle at a +short distance, 5 double, 4 times 1 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; +close to this circle another as follows:--5 double, fastened on to the +last purl of the preceding circle, 5 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 +purl, 5 double; a third circle as follows:--5 double fastened on to the +last purl of the preceding circle, 3 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, +1 purl, 5 double; the cotton is fastened a short distance further on to +the second purl of the first worked small circle, which must be turned +downwards; then turn the work so that the three circles which are joined +together are turned downwards. Work another small circle as follows at +the distance of two-fifths of an inch:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, +leave again an interval of about two-fifths of an inch, and repeat from +* till the lace is long enough; but in working the following figures, +consisting of three circles, the 1st circle must be fastened on to the +last purl of the 3rd circle at the place of the 1st purl. Complete the +tatting with the 2 following rows of crochet:--* 1 slip stitch in the +purl of one of the small circles turned upwards, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch +in the next purl, 4 chain; repeat from *. In the following row work 1 +double in every stitch. + + * * * * * + +23.--_Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 23.--Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch.] + +This insertion forms a very pretty standing-up collar when worked with +fine cotton and a coloured ribbon drawn through. It consists of 2 rows +of 3 branched figures turned opposite one another, which are worked +separately and then joined into a row. Work 9 times as follows:--2 +double, 1 purl, 2 double, * draw into a circle and * work at a short +distance a 2nd circle as follows:--2 double fastened on to the last purl +of the 1st circle, 8 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat once more +from *, knot together the two ends of the cotton, and fasten them on the +wrong side. One figure is thus completed; each following figure is +fastened on to the preceding one on the middle purl of a circle (see +illustration). When a sufficient number of such figures have been +worked, work a 2nd row of them in the same manner, and fasten from +illustration each middle circle of one figure on to the corresponding +circle of the 1st row. The circles filled with lace stitch are worked +when the 2 rows are completed from illustration in the empty places +between 4 patterns; work first 3 double, fasten them on to a purl on the +side of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double, fasten them on to a purl of +the next leaf, repeat 5 times more from *, work 3 double, join the +stitches into a circle, but not too close, so that the purls keep their +natural position; cut off the cotton, and fasten the two ends on the +wrong side. The lace stitch inside of these circles is worked with fine +crochet cotton; the pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel. + + * * * * * + +24.--_Insertion in Tatting._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +Begin by working separately a sufficient number of small rosettes, each +composed of six ovals of double stitches and purl. These ovals are +worked first in a straight row, then they are joined into a circle and +united in the centre by button-hole stitches. The rosettes are joined +together with fine cotton. The crochet border is then worked on either +side in chain stitches and treble crochet, as seen in illustration. + +[Illustration: 24.--Insertion in Tatting.] + + * * * * * + +25.--_Centre of a Tatted Couvrette_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20, or +crochet cotton No. 1; tatting-pin No. 2. + +This illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full size, +and measuring 12 inches across. Separate rosettes like the pattern may +be joined together with smaller ones, and form a very pretty couvrette. +The pattern is worked in rounds. Begin the rosette with a circle, +consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4 +double. Take up another shuttle, and work over the cotton on it, fasten +the end on the last double of the circle and work over it, beginning +close to the circle, 6 plain, 1 circle like the 1st worked with the 1st +shuttle, and which is fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at the +place of the 1st purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately till +you have 7 circles divided by 6 plain stitches. Draw up very tightly the +cotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette, which is +closed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of the first and +last circle. Both the ends of the cotton over which you have worked are +knotted together. For the 2nd round, fasten the cotton on one shuttle on +the middle purl of a circle, work a circle like those of the 1st round, +take up the 2nd shuttle, and work on exactly as in the 1st round, only +work 8 plain between the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. The +2nd round consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must be +fastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of the +preceding round. The 3rd and following rounds are worked in the same +manner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the couvrette +quite flat. In the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles. Fasten the +cotton well after each round. + +[Illustration: 25.--Centre of a Tatted Couvrette.] + + * * * * * + +26.--_Tatted Lace_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30; +tatting-pin No. 2. + + +[Illustration: 26.--Tatted Lace.] + +This very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they were +slightly gathered. It must be worked with tatting cotton. Each scallop +consists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5 purled +stitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the 1st and +last stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd similar +scallop at a short distance from the 1st. But in the following scallops +fasten each to the last purl of the preceding scallop instead of working +the 1st purl. + + * * * * * + +27.--_Tatted Lace_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 or 80; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 27.--Tatted Lace.] + +This pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. Work with 2 +threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in the +right hand. Work first the outer scallops of the lace + +Fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided by 1 +purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards, fasten the +cotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back over the same +row, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you work, 9 double +divided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which you work on the next +purl of the 1st row after every double stitch. This forms 1 scallop. * +Turn the work downwards (that is, the purl stitch must be turned +downwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1 purled stitch: this is the +straight row between 2 outer scallops of the lace. Then work a scallop +like the preceding one, fastening it from illustration after the first +row on the middle one of the 9 outer purl of the preceding scallop, with +the cotton over which you work; repeat from * till the lace is long +enough, and fasten the cotton. Knot both ends together again, fasten the +cotton over which you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make +9 double, 1 short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the row +is turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2 +middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing the +cotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as to form a +loop, draw the cotton over which you work through this loop and draw up +the latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on to +the short purl worked after 9 double, turn the work so that the outer +scallops of the lace are turned downwards, 10 double, fasten the cotton +over which you work on the first purl of the next scallop, repeat from +*, and fasten the cotton. After having fastened both ends together +again, turn the work the right side upwards and the outer scallops +upwards also, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl +which is under the first loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 +double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the purl under the +next loop, and repeat from * till the lace is completed. + + * * * * * + +28.--_Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; +tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s French embroidery +cotton No. 60; square netting. + +[Illustration: 28.--Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting] + +The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted grounding over a +mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The collar is ornamented +round the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work a straight strip of +netting for the grounding; begin with 2 stitches, work 18 rows backwards +and forwards, increasing 1 at the end of each row, so that the last row +has 19 holes; work 1 row without increasing; then continue to work with +the same number of stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and +decreasing 1 at the end of the other. When the strip is sufficiently +long, work 1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form +the side by making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each, +cast off the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on +the needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick +cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning is +completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6 +double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6 double, +draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving one-fifth of an inch +between the first and last stitch; work a second scallop at a short +distance from the first, and so on; every scallop is fastened on to the +preceding one after the first 3 double stitches. Work a row of double +overcast stitch between the darned netting and the tatted lace; work +this row over the cotton tracing, marking the outline of the collar on +the grounding and over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work also +a row of double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a +little if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close to the +row of overcast stitches. + + * * * * * + +29.--_Mignardise and Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; fine +mignardise braid. + +[Illustration: 29.--Mignardise and Tatting.] + +Patterns formed of mignardise and tatting are of quite new style, and +look very pretty. The insertion is easy to work by the following +process:--Make first a circle, as follows: 1 plain stitch, 2 double, 1 +purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 plain; fasten the cotton on to one +side of the mignardise, at the distance of about five-eighths of an +inch, by taking 2 loops of it together; work a second circle at a short +distance from the first, and so on. When the strip of insertion is +sufficiently long, work in the same manner on the other side of the +mignardise. This kind of work is destined to become very popular, and +nothing can be more light and graceful than the union of mignardise and +tatting. + + * * * * * + +30.--_Linen Bag for Cotton_. + +Materials: Fine linen, 6 inches square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +tatting cotton No. 40. + +[Illustration: 30.--Linen Bag for Cotton.] + +The bag seen in illustration No. 30 is meant to keep the cotton for +working a couvrette; it consists of a round piece, measuring 6 inches +across, which is hemmed all round, and trimmed with a tatted lace. It is +drawn together at top. + + * * * * * + +31.--_Tatting Insertion_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30. + +The insertion shown in illustration No. 31 is composed in two similar +halves. Begin the first in the following way:--10 double, 1 purl, 3 +double, 1 purl, 10 double, join the stitches into a circle, and work a +second similar circle at a distance of one-third of an inch; instead of +the 1st purl, draw the cotton through the 2nd purl of the first-worked +circle; leave an interval of one-eighth of an inch, and repeat the two +rounds till the insertion is sufficiently long. Then tat round the +pieces of cotton which join the two rounds, work round the longest 10 +double, and round the shortest 4 double, inserting the shuttle +alternately once upwards and once downwards, but for the rest proceeding +as in the common button-hole stitch. When the first half is completed, +work the second in the same way, and fasten it on to the first with the +purl. + +[Illustration: 31.--Tatting Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +32.--_Tatting Insertion_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30. + +[Illustration: 32.--Tatting Insertion.] + +The pretty effect of the insertion shown in illustration No. 32 is +obtained by means of longer and shorter purl. Work as follows:--Join 9 +double into a circle, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double *. +After an interval of five-eighths of an inch, begin the large figure of +the pattern: 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, draw the cotton through +the last purl of the small circle, 2 double, drawn through the 1st purl +of the same circle, 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, 1 long purl, 2 +double, 1 small purl, 2 double, repeat 6 times more from *, and draw up. +After an interval of five-eighths of an inch comes another small circle: +4 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the large figure, 3 +double, draw the cotton through the next long purl of the same figure, 2 +double, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double. Repeat the pattern +for the length of insertion required. The threads which join the small +circles are worked over with 7 double in the manner described above, +only the cotton at the principal figure must be left loose the width of +a straw, so as to imitate a long purl. Complete the insertion from +illustration by tatting round the small circles of 16 double on the +other side (but in the contrary direction), form no purl, but draw the +cotton through the long purl of the large figure; the threads which join +the 2 circles are likewise drawn through the middle long purl of the +large figure; this thread is then tatted over with 7 double, like the +opposite outer edge. + + * * * * * + +33.--_Tatted Square or Diamond_. + +Materials: If for couvrettes, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting +cotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 4; tatting-pin No. 3. For d'oyleys, +tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2. For headdresses, tatting +cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2. + +The square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked in 3 +rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with purl. Each +pattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and each branch +consists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4 branches of one +pattern are completed, cut off the cotton, and fasten both ends +together so as to form a small circle in the centre. Then work a second +pattern, which is fastened on to the first and second branches of the +first pattern, instead of working the purl stitch; work a third pattern, +which is fastened in the same manner on to the second pattern. Then work +2 more rows exactly the same as can be seen in illustration. + +[Illustration: 33.--Tatted Square.] + +*For the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first purl of +the first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, +draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton again on to the same purl +of the first pattern *, and work the following scallop at a short +distance:--4 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, +10 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitch, leaving an +interval of two-fifths of an inch between the first and the last; fasten +the cotton on to the next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twice +more from *, and continue to repeat from *. + + * * * * * + +34.--_Tatted Rosette_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or +crochet cotton No. 60. + +[Illustration: 34.--Tatted Rosette.] + +This rosette is very pretty for trimming _lingeries_; it is worked with +very fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the centre and work one +circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 1 purled stitch. +Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and work the 2nd round: 1 small +circle, consisting of 6 double divided by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton on +to the next purl of the middle circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round: +Fasten the cotton on the middle purl of the first circle of the +preceding round, * work at a short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl, +join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance +on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and +repeat in rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off. + + * * * * * + +35.--_Rosette in Tatting_. + +[Illustration: 35.--Rosette in Tatting.] + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8 times +alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle +and fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work over the cotton on +this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton together * and work 5 plain, +fasten the cotton over which you work on a purl of the circle which is +completed, and which must be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7 +times more from *, and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of the +shuttles the small circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a +purl of the second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1 +purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second +round, work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the +same distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton +neatly. + + * * * * * + +36.--_Diamond in Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; +tatting-pin No. 2. + +[Illustration: 36.--Diamond in Tatting.] + +This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &c., when worked +with fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns separately, as +follows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 6 double, join the +stitches into a circle, work close to this circle a second one +consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle, 4 +double, 2 purl divided by 4 double, 6 double; then a 3rd circle +consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding +circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3 double, 7 double. Take a second +shuttle, fasten the cotton on the end of the cotton of the 1st circle, +throw the cotton of the 1st shuttle over the fingers of the left hand, +and work with this cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the +right hand. Work 5 double, and then one circle as follows with the +cotton in the left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the +3rd of the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 +double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the cotton +on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double, 5 double, +then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 4 +double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on 1st purl of the +circle worked at the beginning, 8 double; then again with two shuttles 5 +double. Fasten the cotton on the piece of cotton before the 5 double +worked with two shuttles, so that the stitches worked over two shuttles +form a circle, and cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns have +been worked, work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4 +leaves touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3 +double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf is +fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl. Then work +first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with which the corner +patterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl of one corner +pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on the corresponding +purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1 purl, 7 double, join +the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton on to the same purl to +which the cotton has already been fastened, carry the latter on to the +next purl of the same corner pattern, fasten it, then work three more +circles like the first, which are fastened on to each preceding circle, +at the place of the first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl +of the centre pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side +of the same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite +direction are worked in the same manner. When the square is completed, +draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on to the other +side of the square along the cotton which joins the circles together. + + * * * * * + +37.--_Tatting for Cap Crown_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; +tatting-pin No. 1. + +[Illustration: 37.--Tatting for Cap Crown.] + +This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one +described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &c. The size +of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the pattern. The +pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It consists of +eight-branched rosettes joined together with small circles. Each rosette +is worked as follows: Work 8 loops or branches close to each other, +consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; fasten both ends of the +cotton together, and cut them off. Each of the small circles which joins +the rosettes together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double. +It is easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined +together by means of the purl stitches. + + * * * * * + +38 _and_ 39.--_Cap in Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100 +tatting-pin No. 1. + +[Illustration: 38.--Cap in Tatting.] + +This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged all +round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also. The cap +is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue velvet. A narrow +velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight open-work edge of the lace, +as can be seen in illustration. + +[Illustration: 39--Border for Cap No. 38.] + + * * * * * + +No. 39.--Border for Cap.--The upper part of the border consists of 4 +rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an inch from +each other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3 double, 3 purl +divided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3 rows each circle is +fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2 circles in the 1st row, instead +of working the middle purl, the cotton between 2 circles in the last row +must only be two-fifths of an inch long. Then work a certain number of +six-branched rosettes, each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 +double. Each rosette is fastened on to every other circle of the + +1st row, as can be seen in illustration. The border is completed as +follows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch +fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain, 6 +purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the lace +so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on to the +purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double, 7 purl +divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the purl of the +next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double; +fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat once more from *, work 1 +double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, and repeat from * to the +end of the lace. + + * * * * * + +40.--_Lace in Tatting and Crochet_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50; +tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60. + +[Illustration: 40.--Lace in Tatting and Crochet.] + +The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of the +tatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the circles must +be drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4 double, 8 purl +divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle a second one; 5 +double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 8 times 2 +double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl + +5 double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first, but +instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of the +preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and repeat from +* till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is worked in crochet. +Take the fine crochet cotton and work the straight row at the top to +join the patterns together. Crochet 1 double in the 3 first and last +purl of the first and last circle of one pattern, then a sufficient +number of double stitches under the piece of cotton which joins 2 +circles. At the place where the circles are drawn together, join the two +pieces of cotton (the beginning and the end) in such a manner that the +top of the lace forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd row +consists of 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. +Then work on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches +divided by chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of +the circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st +circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, +3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st treble only +so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd treble is +completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain, 5 treble +divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following purl, which are +cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2 treble divided by 3 +chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain, 1 long treble with which +you must join the last purl and the first one of the next pattern, 1 +chain; repeat from *. The next row consists of small scallops worked +round the chain stitch scallops of the preceding row; work in each 1 +double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1 double in the first and last chain stitch +of every pattern. + + * * * * * + +41.--_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet +cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2. + +[Illustration: 41.--Insertion in Tatting and Crochet.] + +Begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. Work with the cotton +on one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the following +manner:--Knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double divided +by a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st and 3rd purl +must be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one two-fifths of an inch; +4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1 purl two-fifths of an inch +long; repeat from * till the strip of insertion is sufficiently long. +Then work a similar row of tatting, and join the two rows before working +the 1 long purl, by fastening the cotton on the corresponding long purl +of the 1st row, so that the 2 rows are joined closely together, and the +purl stitches of either are turned outwards. At the top and bottom of +the tatting work the 3 following rows of crochet:--* 1 double in the +middle one of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3 +following long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd +row. 8 double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of the +preceding row under 3 chain. The 3rd row consists of treble stitches in +every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Lastly, the leaves are +worked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long purl of a +pattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross stitches +between the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine cotton. + + * * * * * + +42.--_Purse in Tatting and Beads_. + +Materials: Grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glacé silk; a steel +clasp with chain. + +This purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. The beads are +threaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over another piece of +the same. Begin each of the second halves of the purse with the circle +in the centre, which consists of 1 purled stitch, 1 purl (all the purl +of this circle are three-tenths of an inch long, and are covered with +six beads, which must be drawn up close together before working the +purl), 12 double divided by 1 purl. Join the stitches into a circle by +knotting together the two ends of the silk. + +2nd round: Begin again and work one of the small circles; * 2 double, +draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl without beads, 2 +double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten the silk on the purl of the +middle circle, so as to let it come between the 3rd and 4th bead of the +6 beads on that purl; 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short +purl, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, join the stitches into a +circle, draw up 2 beads; work a larger circle without fastening the silk +belonging to the smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 +purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl, +3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 +bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large circle +and repeat from *. Each following small circle must be fastened on the +next purl of the circle which forms the centre; they are also fastened +on to each other, instead of working the 1st purl, by fastening the +piece of silk over which you work on the preceding small circle; in the +larger circles, instead of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the piece +of silk must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, so +that it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. At the end of the round, +the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off. + +[Illustration: 42.--Purse in Tatting and Beads.] + +3rd round: * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 3 +double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the middle purl of the +1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 +double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; join +the stitches into a circle, and work at a short distance a 2nd circle; 3 +double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fastened on the last purl of the +just-finished circle of this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 +double fastened on the purl of the preceding round which is between 2 +circles; the loop must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead after +each; 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1 +double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *, then +fasten the ends. + +When two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet glacé +silk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew on the clasp. A +round of large circles edges the purse round the outside. The 1st of +these circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl +with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double. Work a 2nd circle +at a short distance from the 1st: * 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 +double fastened on the purl of the 1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1 +bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after +each, 1 double; leave a short interval, and repeat from * till a +sufficient number of circles have been made. The last purl is not worked +in the last circle. + + * * * * * + +43.--_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet +cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 43.--Insertion in Tatting and Crochet.] + +This pattern is composed of leaves and flowers. Each of the six leaves +forming a circle is composed of 4 double, 2 purl, separated by 2 double, +4 double (the first and last purl of each leaf must be joined in the +manner before explained), and the centre of each circle forms a wheel. +The flower has four leaves: each leaf consists of 6 double, II purl, +separated each by 1 double, and again 6 double; each leaf is filled up +with button-hole stitches in fine cotton. To form the circle in the +centre of this flower, turn several times the thread which joins the +leaves, and work button-hole stitches round it. Join the flowers and the +circles by knotting them together, or by making 1 purl longer than the +others, and by drawing the next figure through. The crochet border on +each side of the tatting consists of six rows, which are plainly seen in +the illustration. + + * * * * * + +44.--_Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20 and 40. + +[Illustration: 44.--Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch.] + +This mixture of tatting and lace stitch is a style of work not only +entirely new, but very pretty and effective when cotton of very +different sizes is used. The tatting is begun with a row of circles +two-thirds of an inch distant from each other; each circle consists of +13 stitches of plain tatting. Fasten a 2nd row to the 1st, and a 3rd to +the 2nd, by working a circle of 13 stitches of plain tatting at +one-third of an inch distance, * then at the same distance; fasten the +cotton on the next circle of the preceding row, work a circle at the +same distance again, and repeat from *. The cotton is fastened on the +circles by drawing it through the circle with a crochet-needle, so as to +form a loop, and then drawing it out of the loop. Take care to keep the +distance between 2 circles always the same. Between the circles of the +3rd row draw another piece of cotton, by fastening the cotton on each +circle of the 3rd row at distances of two-thirds of an inch. Then work +the lower edge of the border in the following way:--1 small spot called +a _Josephine knot_ (for which work 5 stitches of plain tatting, draw the +cotton downwards through the loop which fastens the stitches, and draw +up the whole), fasten the cotton between the next two circles of the 3rd +row, * and a little further make a spot consisting of 8 stitches of +single tatting, close to this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purl +divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plain +tatting, turn the 2 last spots so as to make their round sides come +opposite one another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 next +circles of the 3rd row. Then a little further off work 1 small spot (5 +stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double +fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl +divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plain +stitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of the +3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to the +corresponding purl of the preceding one. On the other long side, the +border is completed by 2 rows of crochet. The 1st row is formed by +working 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2 circles of the 1st +row, with 5 chain stitches between. + +2nd row: 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch after every +treble. The strip of insertion is then tacked on a piece of cardboard or +oil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked between the circles, as is +seen in illustration. + + * * * * * + +45.--_Tatted Rosette._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30 for +large rosette, No. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin No. 3. + +This rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie--cravats, caps, +handkerchiefs, &c. The raised pattern in the centre consists of 4 +rounds, consisting of 5 circles each, which are sewn together and then +fastened on the rosette. The 5 circles of each round must be worked +close to each other: after working the last circle of each round, knot +the beginning and end of the cotton together. Each circle of the +smallest round has 9 double, the circles of the next round each 15, the +circles of the following one 21, and the circles of the last and largest +round 27 double stitches. When these circles have been sewn on one to +another as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4 double, +1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1 double. The purls +of this circle are fastened on to the circles of the next round of the +rosette. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and +work a circle as follows:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double, +1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Repeat 9 times +more from *, but now, instead of working the 1st purl of every circle, +fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then fasten the +cotton. For the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds, +fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding +round, and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1 + +[Illustration: 45.--Tatted Rosette.] + +purl, then 4 double. Then fasten a second thread on to the same purl on +which the just completed circle has been fastened, and over which all +the scallops are to be worked. Work over it 5 double, fastened on to the +last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 +double. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle of +the preceding round, and repeat from * till the round is completed; but +in working these circles, instead of the first purl, fasten them on to +the last purl of the preceding scallop. Lastly, the raised pattern is +sewn on. + + * * * * * + +46.--_Linen Bag for Tatting, &c._ + +Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. +30 or 40; tatting-pin No. 2. + +[Illustration: 46.--Linen Bag for Tatting, &c.] + +This pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work from being +soiled before it is completed. The bag is drawn together round the top. +Its size depends upon what you wish to put into it. The original +pattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3 inches wide; it is hemmed round the +top, and trimmed with a narrow tatted lace, consisting of large and +small circles. + + * * * * * + +47.--_Tatted Border._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; +tatting-pin No. 2. + +[Illustration: 47.--Tatted Border.] + +Begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the following +manner:-- + +1st row: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double; +draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat the circle at a very +short distance, till the border is long enough; but instead of working +the first purl of each circle, you must join the circle to the preceding +one; the purl on the sides of the circle must therefore be longer than +that in the middle. + +For the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left side with +the cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the cotton in the +right hand, which is also to be held between the thumb and forefinger of +the left hand. Then work in the following way:--2 double, then 1 circle +consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; to form this circle, let the +cotton in the left-hand shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop round +the left hand with the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. Then +take up again the left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middle +purl of the 1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through the +purl like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand through +this loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle purl of +the next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1 circle joined on +the middle purl of the following circle; repeat from *. + +The upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in the +following manner:-- + +1st row: * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st circle of the 1st row +of tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *. + +2nd row: * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding row, 1 purl (3 +chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of the preceding row +under it; repeat from *. + + * * * * * + +48.--_Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting._ + +Materials for trimmings: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton +No. 20; tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3. For couvrettes, +crochet cotton No. 4. + +This rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty trimming +for articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes; if used for +the former, they must be worked with very fine cotton. The centre of the +rosette is formed of an embroidered raised pattern worked in _point de +minute_; round this centre there are small circles worked in button-hole +stitch; the embroidery is worked with knitting cotton, the circles with +crochet cotton. Before beginning the circles, make a circle consisting +of a foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten the +button-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain work +1 double, then fasten the cotton. In the 2nd round of these circles +fasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet circle. Work 1 +round of open-work treble stitch in the double stitch of the crochet +circle, work in tatting the border of the rosette as follows in 1 +round:--* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fastened on to 1 chain stitch +between 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1 purl, 2 double,; join these +stitches into a circle; turn the work so that the wrong side lies +upwards, and work a second larger circle at a short distance consisting +of 4 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeat +from *. The smaller circles must be fastened after every other treble +stitch; the larger and smaller circles must be fastened above one +another at the place of the 1st purl. + +[Illustration: 48.--Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting.] + + * * * * * + +49--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 60; +tatting-pin No. 2. + +[Illustration: 49.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.] + +The diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is commenced in +the centre. For each of the four centre leaves work 6 double stitches, 6 +purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, then 6 more +double stitches. Fasten off the cotton, cut it, and begin a fresh leaf +by working 2 double stitches, 10 purl divided one from the other by 2 +double stitches, then 2 more double stitches. (This small leaf forms one +of the corners of the diamond pattern.) Fasten the cotton to the fourth +purl of one of the four centre leaves, and work another leaf similar to +the preceding. Join this leaf by its two centre purl to the two last +purl of the corner leaf (see illustration). After two more similar +leaves, work one corner leaf, and continue the pattern in the same +manner until you come back to the first corner leaf, then fasten off, +and cut the cotton. Place the diamond pattern upon the point of the +collar, and cut away the material under it; fold back the edges, sew +them neatly, and cover them with the following crochet edging:--Make +alternately 2 chain, 1 purl (the latter composed of 3 chain joined +together by 1 slip stitch). It will be easy to work the circles in +tatting from our illustration; they form an elegant border round the +collar. We shall merely say that the centre circle is always worked +separately, and that the cotton is fastened on afresh to work the eight +outer leaves. The upper edge of this border is worked in crochet. It is +composed of two rows--one formed of chain stitches, and a few slip +stitches worked in the purl of the circles in tatting, the other worked +in open treble crochet. + + * * * * * + +50.--_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +This cravat consists of a strip of cambric muslin 1 yard long, 6 inches +wide, hemmed on both sides. The ends of the cravat are ornamented with +patterns in tatting, worked with tatting cotton No. 100. A rosette in +tatting is sewn on in the middle of the end of the cravat. The end of +the cravat is pointed, lined on the wrong side with a strip of the same +material as the cravat, and edged with a tatted lace. Begin the rosette +in the centre with a circle worked in the following manner:--1 double, 1 +purl, * twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, +twice 4 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, * 3 double, 1 purl; repeat +from * to * once more, 2 double. At the beginning of the 2nd round +fasten the cotton on the 1st purl of the 1st round, and + +[Illustration: 50.--Cravat in Muslin and Tatting.] + +work as follows:--* 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl, 2 double, +1 purl, 10 double; fasten the cotton on to the next purl, 1 circle like +the preceding one, fastened on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of +9 double, 1 purl, 9 double fastened on to the next purl, 2 circles +consisting each of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; between the 2 fasten the +cotton on to the next purl; 2 similar circles fastened also on to the +next purl, 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, fastened +on to the next circle; repeat once more from *, and fasten off the +cotton. Fasten on the cotton afresh for the 3rd round, worked in the +following manner:--* 1 circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, +1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl; 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 +double; fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 1st purl of the +2nd round, 1 circle worked as follows:--5 double fastened on to the last +purl of the preceding circle of this round, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 +double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on +to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the 2nd round; 6 similar circles, +between each of which the cotton is to be fastened on to the nearest +purl of a circle of the 2nd round; repeat once more from *, and knot the +beginning and the end of the cotton together. When completed, the +rosette is sewn on the material of the cravat with button-hole stitches, +taking up one purl with each stitch; the muslin is cut away underneath +the rosette; then work a round of knotted stitches underneath the +button-hole stitch. For the lace, make a row of circles one-fifth of an +inch distant from each other, consisting each of 6 double, 1 purl, 2 +double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 +purl, 6 double, which are fastened together by the purl of each circle, +and are sewn on the cravat over the cotton between the circles in +overcast stitch. + + * * * * * + +51--_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 51.--Cravat in Muslin and Tatting.] + +The end of this cravat is formed by a long rosette or _médaillon_ in +tatting. This rosette is likewise begun in the centre, and consists of 4 +rounds, the 2 first of which are worked like those of the rosette in +illustration 50, with this difference only, that in the 2nd round each +of the circles nearest to the top and to the bottom of the rosette +consists of 8 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 3rd round: * 1 +circle, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 +double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fastened +on to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the preceding round; 1 circle +as follows:--5 double, the last of which is fastened on to the last purl +of the preceding round, 4 double, 1 purl, twice 2 double divided by 1 +purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on the next purl of +the preceding round; 8 more similar circles, between each of which the +cotton is fastened on to the next purl of the preceding round; repeat +from * once more, fasten the two ends of the cotton together. 4th round: +* Fasten on the cotton afresh with a circle consisting of 7 double, 1 +purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 +double, 1 purl, 7 double, fastened on to the middle purl of the 1st +circle of the preceding round; a 2nd circle worked in the same way, only +instead of working the last purl, fasten the cotton on to the last purl +of the preceding circle, then on to the 1st circle of the preceding +round; 10 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is +fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, and +then on to the 2nd purl of the larger circle at the bottom of the +medallion; repeat once more from *. The pattern is sewn on the cravat +with button-hole stitches, as can be seen in the illustration. + + * * * * * + +52.--_Border in Crochet and Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 26. + +This border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves, which +are joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow + +[Illustration: 52.--Border in Crochet and Tatting.] + +border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the border +forms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles is begun in +the centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is formed by passing +the thread over the back of the hand, and then passing the shuttle +upwards between the forefinger and second finger, and drawing it up, +then work a stitch of plain tatting; this completes the double stitch, +and whenever so many double stitches are directed it means the 2 +stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9 times, join the stitch into a circle, work +at a small distance * a smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl, +divided each by 2 double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the +purl of the first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each +following circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle +after 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the thread +must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which forms the +centre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the thread are +knotted together. For the tatted border, make at short distances 1 loop +with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having worked a sufficient number +of such loops, wind another thread round the thread between the loops, +turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. Now begin the +crochet part with the leaves. Make for each of these a foundation chain +of 12 stitches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch +but one, 1 double in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following +7 chain, 2 treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2 +treble in the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on the +other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3 +double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leaf +with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double in each stitch +of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble stitch. In working this +last round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up the +purl stitch of the circle before casting off the corresponding double +stitch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles +and leaves with a row of chain stitches, on which a row of double is +worked. Then comes the border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of +chain stitches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of +treble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely +in chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the +loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3 +chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1 +under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must be fastened +on the border, as seen in illustration. + + * * * * * + +53.--_Diamond in Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10; +tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle. + +[Illustration: 53.--Diamond in Tatting.] + +1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a +double thread is required, and commence by working 5 double stitches, 1 +purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up. + +Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left +hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them tightly. + +2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1 +purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 12 single stitches tightly worked. + +3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join to +next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, draw +up. + +Double thread: 12 single stitches. + +4th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to +next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 12 single stitches. + +5th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to +next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 12 single stitches. + +6th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to +next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 7 single stitches. + +7th oval: 5 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 +purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 7 single stitches. + +8th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 +purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 12 single stitches. + +9th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to +next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 12 single stitches. + +10th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to +next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 12 single stitches. + +11th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to +next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 12 single stitches. + +12th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to +next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3 double, join to 1st purl +of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up. + +Double thread: 7 single stitches. + +Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at the +back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other. + +The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with lacework, +using fine sewing-cotton. + +Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty trimming for +the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed with single diamonds. + + * * * * * + +54.--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100, +tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord. + +This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very +effective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working for +each of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the +other by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches. When the third +leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton. Now take, instead of +the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of extremely fine cord, over +which work with the cotton from the reel the following row of +stitches:--1 double stitch, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one +of the three leaves, * 2 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the +other by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the +centre purl of the nearest leaf, 2 double stitches, 9 purl divided one +from the other by 3 double stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to the +same purl as before. Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut +the cord and the cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each +composed of 12 plain stitches placed quite close together (these form +one of the corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from +the other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is fastened +to one purl of the row of + +[Illustration: 54.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.] + +stitches worked over the cord (see illustration). Cut away from the +collar the piece of linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold +in the edges and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up the +space with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circle +composed of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2 +double stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more and +work over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle composed +of 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other by 2 double +stitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord again and work over +it 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double +stitches. Fasten the cotton to the third purl (reckoning from the last) +of the second circle worked without cord; 3 double stitches fastened to +the fourth purl of the row of stitches worked over the cord (see +illustration), 2 double stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double +stitches, 3 double stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3 +double stitches fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches, +3 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten the +cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the beginning), 4 +double stitches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of the border a +crochet edging similar to that round the diamond pattern of collar No. +49. For the point of the border, at the corner of the collar, see +illustration No. 54. + + * * * * * + +55.--_Tatted Collar_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; +tatting-pin No. 1. + +This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists of four +branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles, fastened on to +one another as seen in illustration. The four branched patterns are +worked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 +purl, then 3 double, and join the knots into a circle. Work 3 similar +leaves close to this 1st leaf, but instead of working the 1st purl, +fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding leaf; besides this, +instead of + +[Illustration: 55.--Tatted Collar.] + +working the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl +of the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed, knot +both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row of similar +patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a branch of the +preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle purl of the last +branch (see illustration). Two rows of similar patterns are joined by +the above-mentioned circles, consisting of 32 double stitches, by +fastening these circles from illustration between four branched +patterns. Begin each circle with 2 double stitches, fasten it on to the +corresponding purl of the four-branched pattern, work again 2 double, +fasten on to the next purl, and continue in the same manner till the +circle is sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lace +stitch. The collar is edged round the neck with close button-hole +stitches. + + * * * * * + +56.--_Tatted Collar_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +This collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton in the +following manner:--1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw the cotton +into a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1 purl, 3 double, +draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the first purl of the +first circle; work two more circles the same as last. 2nd oval: 2 +double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to the third purl of the +centre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 times, 2 double, +1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5 small circles, as follow:--3 +double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, * 1 purl, 3 double, joining each +circle to the purl of the 2nd oval. 3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times, +joining the 3rd purl to the 2nd purl of the centre circle of the +preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw +the cotton up, and work 7 small circles, similar to the small circles +described in 2nd oval. + +[Illustration: 56.--Tatted Collar.] + + * * * * * + +57.--_Circle in Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 50; +tatting-pin No. 2. + +[Illustration: 57.--Circle in Tatting.] + +This circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty for +ornamenting cravat-ends and different articles of lingerie. It is +commenced in the centre with 2 double, 1 purl, repeated 8 times, draw +the cotton into a ring, and work 8 small circles, as follow:--3 double, +* 1 purl, 1 double, repeat from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up the +cotton, and join it to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle. +Large circle: 3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3 +double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle. +The centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches. + + * * * * * + +58.--_Tatting Medallion for Trimming Lingeries, &c._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 for +cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for petticoats; +tatting-pin No. 2 or 3. + + +This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars, +pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &c., according to the size of the +cotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of circles which +incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the centre; begin with +the smallest circle, which is at the top of the pattern; it consists of +3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 3 double. Then +work at a short distance another circle like the preceding one, only +work 8 double instead of 7, and instead of working the first purl, +fasten the circle on to the last purl of the preceding circle; all the +other circles are fastened on to each other in the same manner. The next +circle, worked again at a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4 +double; fasten it on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9 +double, 1 purl, 4 double. The following four circles are worked like the +preceding one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead +of 9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece of +cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat longer +between the larger circles. Then work a circle + +[Illustration: 58.--Tatting Medallion.] + +as follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double, 1 +purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14 double +instead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten the cotton, +15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two following +circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double instead of 15. +Then comes the largest circle of the round, which consists of 6 double, +17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6 double. Work 11 circles more +like the 2nd to 12th of those just described (the 13th circle forms the +middle), only the order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round +closes with the smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cotton +together, so that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work round +this row of circles another round, the circles of which must be of +graduated sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on to +the middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work +one circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2 double, +1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the +next circle, &c. The remaining circles are worked in the same manner, +only they must be increased and decreased in size gradually like the +circles of the first round; this is done by increasing or decreasing the +number of purl, instead of working the first purl of every following +circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. When the +round is completed, fasten both ends of the cotton together. In the +centre of the oval pattern, fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated +size, which are worked in one piece. For the smallest of these patterns +work first three circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times +alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be +close to each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be +fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton is +then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the end of +the same, then work close to them two small circles, consisting of 6 +double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between the beginning and +the end of the third circle. The other five-branched patterns are worked +in the same manner at intervals of about three-tenths of an inch; but +the separate circles of each pattern must become gradually larger. In +the largest pattern the three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl, +8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles +consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other +patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins these +last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and thread, so as +to imitate double stitches. The five-branched patterns are then fastened +in the oval pattern; they must overlap each other to half way, as seen +in the illustration. + + * * * * * + +59.--_Tatted Diamond_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or 80 +if required finer; tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 59--Tatted Diamond.] + +This pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with fine +tatting cotton in the following manner:--Work a * circle consisting of 6 +double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards and work at a short +distance another circle consisting of 5 double, 4 purl divided by 2 +double, 5 double; at a similar distance a circle of 5 double fastened on +to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2 +double, 5 double; then again a circle consisting of 5 double fastened on +to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2 +double, 5 double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. Then turn +the work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave an +interval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three times +more from *, fastening the circles on to each other from illustration. +Knot together the beginning and end of the cotton, work button-hole +stitches round the cotton which joins the circles, as shown in +illustration. The purl stitches of the four middle circles of the +diamond are knotted together. + + * * * * * + +60.--_Tatted Cravat End_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50; +tatting-pin No. 3; 2 shuttles. + +This cravat end is given in full size. It is ornamented with a tatted +medallion, edged with lace. The tatting is worked with tatting fine +cotton and two shuttles. Make first the two rosettes which form the +centre of the medallion, then the insertion-like part which edges the +rosettes. The larger rosette is worked as follows:--Knot the cotton of +both shuttles together and work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting +of 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double; * close to +this circle, which is turned downwards, work over the cotton with the +other shuttle, 1 double, 1 purl, 8 double; this forms one of the +scallops joining two circles. Then turn the work again and work close to +the just completed scallop another circle like the first, but which is +joined to the first circle instead of working the purl. Repeat 4 times +more from *. Then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton on +to the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the place +where the scallop is joined to the first circle. The first round of the +rosette is thus completed. Work then the 2nd round over the cotton on +the 2nd shuttle, beginning to work where the two ends of cotton have +been fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl of +the next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double +fastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the + +[Illustration: 60.--Tatted Cravat End.] + +preceding round; repeat 5 times more from *. The larger rosette is now +completed. The smaller rosette is worked like the first, only without +the second round. The insertion-like border is worked in two halves as +follows:--The half which touches the edge of the medallion is worked as +follows:--Knot both ends of cotton together and *, work with 1 shuttle +only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, +8 double; turn the circle downwards and work close to it over the cotton +on the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop of +the border. Then turn the work again and work close to the scallop +another circle like the first, but which is fastened on to the first +circle instead of working the purl. Turn the work again, work a scallop +like the preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only the +scallops at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few double +stitches more, as can be seen in illustration. After working the last +scallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle; then cut +them off. The second inner half is worked like the first; only the +circles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened on to the +circles of the first half from illustration; the scallops of this half +are somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double. The +completed border is sewn on to the rosettes from illustration; the +different pieces must be first fastened on cardboard. The cotton must be +wound several times round the long threads, as seen in illustration. The +medallion is then sewn into the muslin at the top only; the remaining +border is edged, before joining it to the muslin, with a straight row of +knots to be worked over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop of +the border at regular intervals. The number of double stitches between +two purl is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. For the lace +knot both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circle +consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double; turn the work and make +another circle consisting of 2 double, 9 times alternately 1 purl, 2 +double; then fasten this circle on to the preceding one, where it has +been joined into a circle, so that both circles meet as seen in +illustration. After having turned the work again, work 9 double over the +cotton on the 2nd shuttle, which form a scallop between the circles, and +repeat from *. The lace is then sewn round the edge of the muslin. + + * * * * * + +61.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or No. +40 if desired in a larger size. + +[Illustration: 61. Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.] + +This rosette is suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. It is +worked in white embroidery and lace stitch, and edged all round with a +tatted lace. For the latter work with very fine cotton * 1 large circle, +consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, +then 5 double. At a short distance from this circle work a smaller one, +consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the large circle, +5 double. Leave again an interval as small as the last, and repeat from +* 11 times more. But in working the large circles, instead of working +the 1st purl, fasten them on the same purl of the large circle on which +the small circle has been fastened; besides this, in working the last +(12th) large circle, instead of working the last purl, fasten it on the +1st purl of the 1st circle; the last small circle is fastened on to the +same purl. The lace is thus joined into a circle, and is sewn round the +outside of the rosette with button-hole stitches. + + * * * * * + +62.--_Cravat End in Tatting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60; +tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 62.--Cravat End in Tatting.] + +The illustration shows the end of a tatted cravat. Work first the middle +row of the cravat at the same time with the row of circles on the left +side of the middle row in illustration; begin with the first circle of +the middle row. It consists of 7 times alternately 3 double, 1 small +purl, then 3 double. Work close to this circle, which must be turned +downwards, a Josephine knot, consisting of 5 plain stitches, then a +circle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 5 times +alternately 3 double, 1 small purl; 3 double, 1 long purl, 5 double. +*Turn this circle (which is the first of the side row) downwards, work +close to it a Josephine knot, then a circle consisting of 12 double, 1 +small purl, 12 double. Turn this circle downwards, work a Josephine +knot, and then again a circle like the first of the side row, but +instead of working the first long purl, fasten it on to the last purl of +the preceding circle of the same row. Then hold the work so that the +circles of the side row are turned downwards, work a Josephine knot, 1 +circle like the first circle of the middle row, turn the work, make 1 +Josephine knot, and then a circle like the second circle of the side +row. Repeat from * till the cravat is sufficiently long. The last circle +of the middle row must correspond to the first circle of the same row. +Then begin to work the lower edge at the same time with the last circle +of the middle row, * 1 Josephine knot, then a circle like the circles of +the side row, again 1 Josephine knot, fastened on to the next purl of +the last circle of the middle row; repeat 3 times more from *. Then +continue as before, and work on the right side of the middle row a row +of circles exactly like those which have been worked at the same time +with those of the middle row. + +The fastening on of the cotton between two Josephine knots is seen in +illustration. The circles at the other end of the cravat are fastened +like those of the first-described end. The cravat is edged all round +with a row of circles with Josephine knots worked exactly like those of +the preceding row, and the manner of fastening which is seen in the +illustration. + + * * * * * + +63.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or 40 +if required larger; tatting-pin No. 3. + +[Illustration: 63.--Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.] + +The centre of this rosette is worked in lace stitch on muslin, edged +round with button-hole stitch and trimmed with a tatted lace, which is +worked at the same time with the centre. Work first * a small circle +consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 3 double, fastened on to the button-hole +stitch edging of the rosette, then 3 double, 1 purl, 5 double. Then turn +the just-completed circle downwards, and afterwards work at a short +distance a large circle consisting of 7 double, 6 times alternately 1 +purl, 2 double, lastly 1 purl, 7 double, then 1 Josephine knot +consisting of 7 plain. Then turn the work again, so that the last large +circle is turned downwards, and repeat from * 12 times more; the large +and small circles must be fastened on to one another, as seen in +illustration. The fastening of the small circles on to the centre is +likewise done from the illustration. + +64.--_Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50; +tatting-pin No. 3; square of netting; fine Mecklenburg thread No. 80. + +[Illustration: 64.--Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting.] + +The end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned netting, +edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of the cravat. +But the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square (page 31) will look +very pretty with this border. The square is worked in diamond netting, +and has seven holes in length and breadth. They are darned in linen +stitch, darning stitch, and _point d'esprit_, with Mecklenburg thread. +The ground is worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inch +round. For each square one more row than is needed must be worked, and +the cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitches +of the other rows. The tatted border is worked with fine tatting cotton. +Fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a circle +consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2 double, 1 +purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch of the ground +where it was first fastened; #work a second circle like the +first, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on to the last +purl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again on to the same +stitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small circle, consisting +of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4 +double, 1 purl, 5 double. The cotton is fastened on to the same netted +stitch as before, and then on to the next stitch; repeat twice more from +#, and then repeat from * in all three times more, so that the +square is edged all round. It is sewn into the material from the +illustration. + + * * * * * + +65.--_Tatted Antimacassar. (See pages_ 574-5.) + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 30, or +tatting cotton No. 24, or for a larger size tatting cotton No. 20; +tatting-pin No. 1; large shuttle. + +The illustration shows the fourth of the antimacassar and the whole of +the rosette which forms the centre. Begin with the latter, with the +five-branched pattern in the centre, at the same time with the following +round of circles:--*Work first one circle of this round, consisting of 3 +double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double; then at +a short distance a circle like the one just made, in which, however, +instead of working the first purl, the cotton must be joined on to the +last purl of the preceding circle. Then work at a short distance the +first leaf of the five-branched pattern, which consists of 4 double, 1 +purl, 4 double. When this branch is completed, repeat at a short +distance 4 times more from *; but in working the branches of the +five-branched pattern, instead of working the purl, join it on to the +purl of the first branch of the five-branched pattern (this purl forms +the centre of the pattern). All the circles must also be joined one to +each other, as can be seen from illustration. Then work the scallops +round the border of the rosette, * fasten the cotton on to the purl +which joins the two next circles of the preceding round, and work one +scallop consisting of 11 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 2 +double. Repeat 9 times more from *. When the rosette is completed, work +eight rosettes in the same manner and join them into a circle from +illustration by means of small three-branched patterns, and then join +them on to the middle rosette. + +The strip of insertion which comes next is worked in two halves as +follows:--Work first, for the half turned towards the centre, two rows +of circles lying opposite each other; begin with one of the largest +circles, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 3 times alternately 2 double, 1 +purl, then 4 double; * at a short distance work a smaller circle of 4 +double, 1 purl, 4 double; after another short distance, a circle like +the first joined on to it; then again a smaller circle, which at the +place of the first purl is joined on to the purl of the preceding small +circle. A short distance from this work again one of the larger circles +just described, which is fastened on to the preceding similar circle; +then repeat from * till the double row has nine larger and eight smaller +circles. The first half of the strip of insertion is completed; the +second outer half is worked like the first, only the small circles must +here be worked without any purl, and two of them together must always be +fastened on to the two joined small circles of the first half, as was +done for the five-branched pattern of the rosette; besides this, each of +the large circles has 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 +purl, then 4 double. When eight similar patterns have been worked, join +them into a circle from illustration by means of small rosettes; this +circle is then joined to the already-finished part of the cover. The +small rosettes and remaining patterns of the antimacassar are easily +worked from illustration. The completed patterns are joined together in +the course of the work. + + * * * * * + +TATTING COTTON + +Is supplied by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, in all sizes from +20 to 120. Crochet Cotton, which is preferred by some Tatters, is sold +in all sizes from to 120. + +The following table will assist ladies in selecting the size of either +tatting or crochet cotton. All these cottons are on reels containing 100 +yards:-- + +|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------| +| | Tatting. | Crochet. | +|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------| +| Petticoat Edgings and | | | +| Insertions | 20 | 0 and 12 | +| Night Dress Trimmings | 40 | 60 | +| Lingerie Trimming | 50 | 70 | +| Collars and Cravats | 50 | 70 | +| Pocket Handkerchiefs | 100 | 120 | +| Parasol Covers | 100 | 120 | +| Antimacassars | 20, 30 | 0 and 20 | +| Pincushions | 60 | 80 | +| Caps | 100 | 120 | +| Lace | 60, 80, 100 | 80, 100, 120 | +| Insertions | 20, 40, 80 | 40, 80, 100 | +|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------| + +Ladies at a distance from town or on the Continent will be glad to have +some guide as to the quantity of cotton required to complete their work. +The quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used by an average worker is +found to be two yards to the square inch with a single shuttle; three +yards to the square inch with two shuttles. + + * * * * * + + + + +EMBROIDERY + + +INSTRUCTIONS. + + +The art of embroidering with cotton on linen, muslin, cambric, piqué, +&c., is very easy to learn by strictly attending to the following +instructions. + +The size of the thread and needle must correspond to that of the +material on which you embroider; the needle must not be too long, and +the cotton must be soft. Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery +cotton is the best. Skilful embroiderers never work over anything, +because when you tack the material on paper or cloth each stitch shows, +and if the material is very fine, leaves small holes; but for those that +are learning we should advise them to tack the material to be +embroidered upon a piece of _toile cirée_. If you work without this, +place the material straight over the forefinger of the left hand; the +material must never be held slantways. The three other fingers of the +left hand hold the work; the thumb remains free to give the right +position to each stitch. The work must always, if possible, lie so that +the outline of the pattern is turned towards the person who works. For +the sake of greater clearness one part of the following illustrations is +given in larger size than nature. Preparing the patterns is one of the +most important things in embroidery, for the shape of the patterns is +often spoiled merely because they have not been prepared with sufficient +care. + + +[Illustration: 66.--Scallop.] + +ILLUSTRATION 66 shows how to prepare a scallop. Take thicker cotton than +that with which you work; never commence with a knot, and do not take a +thread longer than sixteen or eighteen inches. The outlines of the +scallops are first traced with short straight stitches. In the corners +particularly the stitches must be short. The space between the outlines +is filled with chain stitches, as can be seen from illustration; they +must not be too long, otherwise the embroidery will look coarse. It is +in this way that every pattern to be worked in button-hole or satin +stitch is to be prepared. + + +[Illustration: 67.--Double Overcast Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 67 shows the double overcast stitch or button-hole stitch +in a straight line. After having traced the outline begin to work from +left to right; fasten the cotton with a few stitches, hold it with the +thumb of the left hand under the outline, insert the needle downwards +above the outline, draw it out under the same above the cotton which you +hold in the left hand, and draw it up. Repeat for all the stitches in +the same manner; they must be regular and lie close to one another. +Great care should be taken that the material on which you embroider is +not puckered. + + +[Illustration: 68.--Overcast Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 68 (_Overcast Stitch_).--The double overcast and the +button-hole stitches are worked from left to right, whilst back +stitches, knotted and satin stitches are worked from right to left. The +stitch is worked in the same way as the double overcast, only the needle +must never be drawn out _above_, but _below_, the cotton with which you +work, and which you keep down with the thumb of the left hand. + + +[Illustration: 69.--Slanting Overcast Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 69.--The slanting overcast stitch is worked without tracing +the outline, always inserting the needle downwards--that is, from top to +bottom. The needle must be inserted in the manner shown in +illustration--that is, not straight, but slanting; insert it a little +farther than the last stitch, and draw it out close to it. The wrong +side of the work must show back stitches. This sort of stitch is used +for the fine outlines in patterns or letter. + + +[Illustration: 70.--Back Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 70.--This shows the back stitch, the working of which is +well known; it is worked in several rows close to each other. + + +[Illustration: 71.--Point Croisé.] + +[Illustration: 72.--Point Croisé.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 71 & 72 show another kind of back stitch, called _point +croisé_, which is only used on very thin and transparent materials. This +stitch forms on the wrong side a sort of darned pattern, which is seen +by transparence on the right side, and gives the embroidered pattern a +thicker appearance, contrasting with the rest of the work (see the lower +leaves of the flower on illustration 110). For this stitch insert the +needle into the material as for the common back stitch, draw it out +underneath the needle on the opposite outline of the pattern, so as to +form on the wrong side a slanting line. Insert the needle again as for +common back stitch; draw it out slanting at the place marked for the +next stitch on the opposite outline, as shown in illustration 71. + + +[Illustration: 73--- Knotted Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 73 shows the knotted stitch; the simplest way of working it +is to work two back stitches at a short distance from each other over +the same thread. + + +The knotted stitch seen in ILLUSTRATION 74 is worked thus:--Take about +four threads of the material on the needle, draw the needle half out, +wind the cotton twice round the point of the needle, hold it tight with +the thumb, draw the needle out carefully and insert it at the place +where the stitch was begun, and draw it out at the place where the next +stitch is to be worked. + +[Illustration: 74.--Knotted Stitch.] + + +[Illustration: 75.--Knotted Stitch] + +The knotted stitch seen on ILLUSTRATION 75 is worked in nearly the same +manner as the preceding one. Before drawing the cotton out of the +material hold it tight with the left-hand thumb; leave the needle in the +same position, wind the cotton twice round it, turn the needle from left +to right, so (follow the direction of the arrow) that its point arrives +where the cotton was drawn out (marked by a cross in illustration), +insert the needle there, and draw it out at the place of the next +stitch. + + +ILLUSTRATIONS 76 & 77.--Raised satin stitch is principally used for +blossoms, flowers, leaves, letters, &c. After having traced the outlines +of the pattern, fill the space left between them with chain stitches in +a direction different from that in which the pattern is to be +embroidered; begin at the point of the leaf, working from right to left, +make short straight stitches, always + +[Illustration: 76.--Raised Satin Stitch.] + +inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it out below. +The leaves on the flowers, as well as on the branches, must be begun +from the point, because they thus acquire a better shape. If you wish to +work a leaf divided in the middle, as seen in illustration 77, you must +trace the veining before you fill it with chain stitches, then begin at +one point of the leaf and work first one half and then the other. + +[Illustration: 77.--Raised Satin Stitch.] + + +[Illustration: 78.--Point de Plume.] + +ILLUSTRATION 78 shows the so-called _point de plume_ on a scalloped +leaf. It is worked like the satin stitch, only the needle is drawn +through the material in a slanting direction. + + +[Illustration: 79.--Point de Minute.] + +ILLUSTRATION 79 (_Point de Minute_).--This stitch is often used instead +of satin stitch when the patterns must appear raised. Wind the cotton +several times round the point of the needle, which is inserted into the +material half its length (the number of times the cotton is to be wound +round the needle depends on the length of the pattern), hold fast the +windings with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle and the cotton +through the windings, insert the needle into the material at the same +place, and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to begin. + + +[Illustration: 80.--Ladder Stitch.] + +[Illustration: 81.--Ladder Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 80 & 81 show the _ladder stitch_, often used in ornamental +embroidery. Trace first the outlines as seen in illustrations; mark also +the cross stitches between the outlines, so that the first touch the +outlines only at both ends. The outlines are embroidered in overcast +stitch or double overcast; the material is cut away underneath the +ladder stitch between the outlines. + +We have now shown the different kinds of stitches used in embroidery; +the following illustrations show them used for different patterns. + + +[Illustration: 82.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.] + +[Illustration: 83.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.] + +[Illustration: 84.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.] + +[Illustration: 85.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 82 TO 85 (_Different Button-hole Stitch Scallops_).--These +scallops are prepared as above described. Take care to have the stitches +even and regular; the scallops must be wide in the centre and very fine +at both ends. + + +ILLUSTRATIONS 86 & 87 (_Button-holes and Eyelets_).--This kind of +embroidery is used only in round or long patterns. Trace first the +outline of the hole, cut away a small round piece of material, not too +close to the outlines (when the button-hole is very small merely insert +the point of the scissors or a stiletto into the material), fold the +edge of the material back with the needle, and work the hole in overcast +stitch, inserting the needle into the empty place in the centre and +drawing it out under the outline. Some button-holes are worked +separately; sometimes they are in a row; if so, take care to begin to +work each button-hole at the place where it touches the next. In the +following button-holes the outside must be traced double, so as to reach +as far as the next one, but each button-hole is finished at once. +Illustration 86 shows a button-hole worked round in button-hole stitch, +87 an eyelet-hole worked in overcast. + +[Illustration: 86.--Button and Eyelet Holes.] + +[Illustration: 87.--Button and Eyelet Holes.] + + +[Illustration: 88.--Shaded Button-hole.] + +[Illustration: 89.--Shaded Button-hole.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 88 & 89.--Shaded button-holes are worked like the others, +only they are prepared, as can be seen in illustration 89, so as to mark +the thickness. The stitches must gradually get narrower or wider, and be +worked very close to each other. + + +[Illustration: 90.--Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 90 & 91 (_Two Leaves in Raised Satin Stitch_).--In a leaf +like the one seen in 90 work first the outline and veining in overcast +stitch; work one half of the leaf in satin stitch, and the other half +between the overcast outline and veining in back stitch. The stem of a +leaf is always worked last. + +[Illustration: 91.--Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch.] + + +[Illustration: 92.--Raised Leaf.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 92 & 93 (_Two Leaves in Satin Stitch and Point de +Plume_).--For leaves like the one seen in 93 begin with the veinings, +then work the inner points, then the outer ones, and lastly the raised +spots in the centre. The leaf seen in 92 is worked, one half in _point +de plume_, the other half in back stitch or _point d'or_. + +[Illustration: 93.--Raised Leaf.] + + +[Illustration: 94.--Leaf.] + +ILLUSTRATION 94.--- The outline of this leaf is embroidered in overcast +stitch; the open-work veining consists of eyelets; one half of the leaf +is worked in back stitch, the other half in a kind of satin stitch +worked without chain stitches underneath; the stitches are worked +across the leaf, leaving between two stitches an interval as wide as the +stitch itself. The next row is then worked in these intervals, and each +stitch begins half-way up the one before and after it. + + +[Illustration: 95.--Leaf Raised.] + +[Illustration: 96.--Leaf Raised.] + +[Illustration: 97.--Raised Leaf.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 95 to 97 (_Leaf in Raised Embroidery).--This kind of +embroidery is particularly beautiful, as it is worked separately and +sewn on the material with an outline in very fine cotton, this produces +the shade seen in 95 (see also illustrations 98 to 113). For such leaves +work first one half in overcast and satin stitch (illustration 96); the +other half is worked on a separate piece of material (see illustration +97); cut away the material along the overcast outline, and fasten it on +the foundation material along the outline which forms the veining on +illustration 96. + + +[Illustration: 98.--Raised Embroidered Leaf.] + +[Illustration: 99.--Half of Leaf (98).] + +[Illustration: 100.--Centre of Leaf (98).] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 98 TO 100 show a similar leaf; both halves are worked +separately (see 99); the centre is worked in open lace stitch. The +latter (see No. 100) is traced, then make ladder stitches across, work +the outlines in overcast stitch, and cut away the material underneath +the ladder stitch. The cross stitches are then worked in darning stitch +with very fine cotton wherever two threads meet. + + +[Illustration: 101.--Blossom in Satin Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 101 (_Blossom in Satin Stitch_).--The eyelet is worked in +overcast stitch, then work the upper part of the blossom all in one +piece as far as the beginning of the veining, thence the blossom is +worked in two halves. + + +[Illustration: 102.--Blossom in Satin Stitch.] + +[Illustration: 103.--Bead partly covered.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 102 & 103 (_Blossom in Satin Stitch_).--The raised centre +of this flower is formed by a bead, over which the embroidery is worked. +When the leaves have been worked one after the other, place a bead in +the centre, left free in such a manner that one hole lies on the +material, and work over the bead by inserting the needle into its upper +hole, then underneath the material, drawing it out above the material +close to the bead, and so on (see 103). + + +[Illustration: 104.--Star in Satin Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 104 (_Star Pattern in Satin Stitch_).--The centre, which +forms a wheel, is worked first. Draw the threads across the circle +marked by an outline; in the centre they are wound round, always taking +one thread _on the needle_ and leaving the next thread _under the +needle_, as can be seen in 122 on the half-finished pattern. The +material underneath the wheel is only cut away when the rest of the +pattern has been embroidered. + + +[Illustration: 105.--Star in Point de Reprise.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 105 & 106 (_Patterns in Back, Satin, and Ladder +Stitches_).--The small star in the centre of No. 105 is worked in _point +de reprise_. + +[Illustration: 106.--Star.] + + +[Illustration: 107.--Flower in Satin Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 107 (_Flower in Satin Stitch_).--The fine veinings are +worked with fine black silk in _point russe_, which renders the effect +of the flower very beautiful. + + +[Illustration: 108--Rose in Satin Stitch.] + +[Illustration: 109.--Petal for Rose.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 108 & 109 (_Rose in Satin Stitch_).--No. 109 shows one +petal larger than full size. The outer circle only is prepared with +chain stitches underneath, so as to appear raised; the inner circles are +worked flat. The centre of the rose is embroidered in open work. + + +[Illustration: 110.--Heartsease.] + +ILLUSTRATION 110 (_Embroidered Heartsease_).--For the knotted stitch see +No. 75. for the _point croisé_ see 71 and 72. + + +[Illustration: 111.--Raised Flower] + +ILLUSTRATION 111 (_Flower in Raised Satin Stitch_). + + +[Illustration: 112.--Ear of Corn.] + +ILLUSTRATION 112 (_An Ear of Corn in Point de Minute_). + + +[Illustration: 113.--Bluebell.] + +[Illustration: 114.--Inner part of Bluebell.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 113, 114, & 116 (_Bluebell in Raised Satin Stitch_).--This +flower is worked partly in separate pieces, as has been described. +Illustration 116 shows the raised part stretched out flat. When it is +finished it is fastened down along the dotted line on No. 114, which +shows the inner part of the flower. + + +[Illustration: 115.--Flower.] + +ILLUSTRATION 115 (_Flower in Point de Minute_).--This stitch is here +worked over a thick foundation of chain stitches. For raised patterns it +looks very well. + +[Illustration: 115.--Outer part of Bluebell.] + + +[Illustration: 117.--Flower appliquéd on Net.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 116 & 117 (_Flower worked in Appliqué_).--To work in +appliqué, two materials, either similar or different, are needed. You +can work either in appliqué of muslin on muslin, or of muslin on net, or +of net on net. Muslin on Brussels net is the prettiest way of working in +appliqué; we will therefore describe it: the other materials are worked +in the same manner. Trace the pattern on the muslin, fasten the latter +on the net, and trace the outlines of the pattern with very small +stitches work them in overcast stitch with very fine cotton, taking care +not to pucker the material. The veinings are worked in overcast. When +the pattern has been embroidered cut away the muslin round the outlines +with sharp scissors, so that the net forms the grounding (see No. 117). +The greatest care is required in cutting out the muslin to avoid +touching the threads of the net. + + +[Illustration: 118.--Border.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 118 & 119 (_Narrow Borders_).--It will be easy to work +these borders from the above instructions. Observe only that on border +118 the outer row of scallops is worked first, then the button-hole +stitch row, and the rest afterwards. The spots are edged all round in +knotted stitch. The wheels in the centre of the eyelets of No. 119 are +worked with very fine cotton in loose button-hole stitch; they are wound +round with the cotton in a second row. + +[Illustration: 119.--Border.] + + +[Illustration: 120.--Insertion.] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 120 TO 122.--Three strips of insertion, which are worked +nearly like the ladder stitch. For No. 120, in tracing the outlines, +make two small knots at short distances by winding the cotton four times +round the needle, as can be seen in illustration; the windings are held +down with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle through, and a +knot is formed. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch only when +all the knots have been made, and then the material is cut away +underneath. + +Illustration 121 is a variety of the slanting ladder stitch. + +Illustration 122.--The cross threads are worked in two rows in the +common herring-bone stitch, as can be seen by the black lines on the +illustration. The straight lines at the top and at the bottom are worked +in double overcast; lastly, the wheels are worked in a row as described +for the star pattern, No. 104. + +[Illustration: 121.--Insertion.] + +[Illustration: 122.--Insertion.] + +[Illustration: 123. U] + +[Illustration: 124. C] + +[Illustration: 125. B] + +[Illustration: 126. O] + +ILLUSTRATIONS 123 To 129 (_Embroidered Initials_).--To learn to work +initials the Roman characters are the easiest to begin with. They must +be traced and prepared like other embroidery in satin stitch, only the +chain stitches underneath must not be too thick: it would take away the +shape of the letters. All depends on the fineness and regularity of the +stitches; they must be worked in overcast stitch. Work from left to +right, and the letter when completed must look rather like raised +printing than like embroidery. Gothic letters are much more difficult to +work on account of the many flourishes; it requires great practice in +needlework to embroider them well. Illustration 123.--The small black +dots are worked in black silk on the thick parts of the letter: the fine +strokes are covered with cross threads of black silk. Illustration +124.--The outlines of the letter and the fine strokes are worked in +black silk. Illustration 125.--This letter is embroidered in raised +satin stitch and _point de plume_. Illustration 126.--This letter is +worked in back stitches, over which are worked at regular distances +cross stitches of black silk. Illustration 127.--Letter in satin and +back stitch. Illustration 128 to be worked in overcast and double +overcast. + +Illustration 129.--Letter G in _point russe_ with black silk. + +[Illustration: 127.] + +[Illustration: 128.] + +[Illustration: 129.] + +[Illustration: 130.] + +ILLUSTRATION 130 (_Embroidered Figures_).--They are worked like the +letters in _point de plume_ and overcast; the dots are worked in knotted +stitch. + + * * * * * + + + + +EMBROIDERY. + +[In working the following Embroidery Patterns it will be found advisable +to trace the design clearly upon tracing-paper with a sharp-pointed lead +pencil. The pattern thus traced must be perforated with a fine needle in +a succession of tiny holes, at the rate of about twenty to the inch. +Those ladies who possess a sewing-machine will find no difficulty in +accomplishing this. Several thicknesses of paper can be perforated at +the same time, if required, by any ordinary machine. To transfer the +traced and perforated design to the fabric to be embroidered, it is only +necessary to rub a small quantity of powder blue through the holes.] + + +131.--_Insertion in Embroidery_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16. + +This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch and button-hole stitch. +The outlines must first be traced and the space filled up with chain +stitches. To work a leaf, begin at the point, working from right to +left, making short stitches, and always inserting the needle close above +the outline and drawing it out below. The holes left for the ribbon to +pass through are worked in plain button-hole stitch, the dots are worked +in raised satin stitch. + +[Illustration: 131.--Insertion in Embroidery.] + + * * * * * + +132.--_Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 10 and +16. + +The veinings of this pretty insertion must be worked in overcast stitch +(No. 68, _Embroidery Instructions_), the leaves and flowers in raised +satin stitch, the scallops in button-hole stitch, and the outer edge of +the leaves in back stitch (No. 70, _Embroidery Instructions_) with No. +10 cotton. + +[Illustration: 132.--Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching.] + + * * * * * + +133.--_Cravat End in Embroidery_. + +Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +embroidery cotton No. 24, or fine black China silk. + +This graceful design is worked in raised satin stitch (see Nos. 76 and +77, _Embroidery Instructions_) and back stitching, or point Russe. Black +silk may be introduced at will, and the delicate leaves may be stitched +in fine black silk, and the flowers embroidered in white, with the +stamens in black silk. + +[Illustration: 133.--Embroidered Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.] + + * * * * * + +134.--_Basket Embroidered in Chenille_. + +Materials: A basket of fine wicker-work; 1 skein of black chenille, and +3 of blue chenille. + +This small round basket measures seven inches across; it has a cover and +two handles. The wicker is very delicately plaited, and is ornamented +with a pattern in chenille which is very easy to work. Upon the cover, +work in point Russe one large star in blue chenille, with the centre and +outer circle in black. All round, work small stars in blue chenille, +with a black stitch in the centre. The position of these stars is shown +in our illustration. The basket requires no mounting; it is not even +lined. + +[Illustration: 134.--Basket Embroidered in Chenille.] + + * * * * * + +135.--_Pattern for Collars and Cuffs in Embroidery._ + +Materials: Muslin, cambric or lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +embroidery cotton perfectionné No. 40. + +Work the outer circle in long even scallops (see page 90 of _Embroidery +Instructions_) in raised button-hole stitch; the spray of flowers is +embroidered in raised satin stitch, the leaves in the same, and the +rosebud calyx in tiny eyelet-holes. The centres of the roses are +embroidered in open-work. + +[Illustration: 135.--Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.] + + * * * * * + +136.--_Cravat End in Embroidery_. + +Materials: Muslin, Brussels net; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +embroidery cotton No. 30. + +Tack the traced muslin over the net and work the scallop of the inner +edge; next the design in the centre must be worked in raised satin +stitch (see No. 77 in _Embroidery Instructions_). The raised dots are +also worked in satin stitch (see page 90 of _Embroidery Instructions_). +Lastly, work the outer edging of round scallops and the lines of raised +dots, and with a pair of embroidery scissors carefully cut away the +muslin from the outer edge and from the leaves of the centre pattern. + +[Illustration: 136.--Cravat End in Embroidery.] + + * * * * * + +137.--_Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c_. + +Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton perfectionné No. +40. + +This pretty star should be worked in fine overcast stitch (see No. 68 in +_Embroidery Instructions_). The centre is worked in raised satin stitch +leaves round a circle of button-hole stitch, in the middle of which a +wheel is worked thus:--Slip the cotton under the thick edge and fasten +it, then cross it over and back so as to make 8 bars, then twist the +cotton twice round 1 bar; this will bring it to the centre; work over +and under each of the bars until a thick dot is formed; fasten the +cotton beneath this, and twist it twice round the bar opposite to the +first one you worked, and finish off. + +[Illustration: 137.--Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.] + + * * * * * + +138.--_Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpane_. + +Materials: Cashmere, cambric muslin, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and +Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 4. + +[Illustration: 138.--Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpart.] + +This is an embroidery-pattern for a woollen or silk quilted counterpane. +Such counterpanes generally have a lining which is turned back on the +right side, and buttoned down at the point of each scallop. The pattern +is a quilted counterpane of scarlet cashmere; the lining is of fine +linen. Before embroidering it, make the points for the corners. The +embroidery is worked in button-hole stitch, overcast, satin, and ladder +stitch. It can also be worked on fine cambric or muslin, and then the +embroidered pattern sewn on the piece of linen which forms the cover on +the wrong side. Make the button-holes as seen on illustration, and sew +on mother-of-pearl or china buttons. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 139.--Embroidery Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.] + + * * * * * + +139.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Collars, Cuffs, &c_. + +Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +embroidery cotton No. 40. + +This pattern is worked in satin stitch, point Russe, and point d'or on +muslin, cambric, or linen; it is suitable for collars, or cravat ends, +or handkerchief corners. + + * * * * * + +140.--_Handkerchief in Embroidery_ + +Materials: French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery +cotton No. 50. + +[Illustration: 140.--Handkerchief in Embroidery.] + +Three rows of hem-stitching ornament this handkerchief; the pattern +forms an insertion within the outer rows, the flowers are worked in +raised satin stitch, with eyelet-hole centres (see No. 87 of _Embroidery +Instructions_); the tendrils are worked in overcast stitch; three rows +of raised dots, in groups of four, are worked on the inner side of the +last row of hem-stitching. This pattern looks very handsome on a +broad-hemmed handkerchief. + + * * * * * + +141.--_Convolvulus Leaf Insertion_. + +Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. +20. + +[Illustration: 141.--Convolvulus Leaf Insertion.] + +The convolvulus leaves are worked in raised satin stitch, the veinings +and stems in overcast stitch, the eyelet-holes in slanting overcast +stitch. (See No. 69 of _Embroidery Instructions_.) + + * * * * * + +142.--_Insertion_. + +Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. +20. + +This simple insertion is worked in raised satin stitch, the stems alone +excepted; these are embroidered in overcast stitch. + +[Illustration: 142.--Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +143 and 144.--_Two Patterns in Embroidery for Trimming Lingerie_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 20, and +Mecklenburg thread No. 50. + +[Illustration: 143 and 144.--Patterns for Trimming Lingerie.] + +These patterns are worked in point Russe and stitching; the spots in +satin and knotted stitch. Illustration 143 is ornamented in the centre +with lace stitches. + + * * * * * + +145 _and_ 146.--_Insertion_. + +Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. +16. + +The two insertions, Nos. 145 and 146, are worked partly in satin stitch, +partly in open-work embroidery, and are edged on either side with an +open-work hem. + +[Illustration: 145.--Insertion.] + +[Illustration: 146.--Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +147.--_Couvrette in Appliqué Embroidery_. + +Materials: Net, fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery +cotton No. 16. + +The pattern must be traced on the muslin, which should be tacked on the +net. The outline of the design must be traced with very small stitches, +and worked in overcast stitches, as are also the veinings; the dots are +worked in raised satin stitch; the border is embroidered with satin +stitch flowers and scallop button-hole stitch. To work appliqué on net, +see No. 117 of _Embroidery Instructions_. + +[Illustration: 147.--Couvrette in Appliqué Embroidery.] + + * * * * * + +148.--_Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat_. + +Materials for Pincushion: Jaconet muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +embroidery cotton No. 16. For toilet mat: White piqué; cotton No. 12. + +[Illustration: 148.--Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat.] + +The leaves and flowers are worked in satin stitch; the eyelet-holes and +stems in overcast stitch. + + * * * * * + +149.--_Corner for Handkerchief In Point Russe_. + +Materials: French cambric, fine China black sewing-silk, or filoselle. + +[Illustration: 149.--Corner for Handkerchief in Point Russe.] + +Point Russe stitch is made by a succession of back stitches. These +stitches carefully follow every line of the design, and are worked in +black China sewing-silk or filoselle. The pattern should be repeated at +each corner of the handkerchief. + + * * * * * + +150 _to_ 152.--_Borders and Insertions_.--_White Embroidery_. + +Materials: Lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. +30, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50; fine black sewing-silk. + +[Illustration: 150.--Embroidered Border.] + +For the border No. 150, trace first the outlines of the scallop, then +draw the threads which are to form the wheel in each scallop (take for +this fine Mecklenburg thread, for the rest embroidery cotton), fasten +them at the places where they cross each other, and work at these places +small and large spots in satin stitch. Then work the scallops in +button-hole stitch; edge each larger spot with button-hole stitch all +round, and make a row of button-hole stitches for the upper edge of the +border, and above this a row of herring-bone stitches. The material is +cut away underneath the wheels. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 151.--Corner in Embroidery.] + +[Illustration: 152.--Corner in Embroidery.] + +The corner borders, illustrations 151 and 152, are worked in point +Russe, chain and satin stitch, with fine black sewing silk. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 153--- Cravat End in Embroidery] + +153.--_Muslin Cravat_. + +Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. +50; No. 40 for the edges. + +This cravat is worked on fine muslin, embroidered upon both ends in +raised satin stitch; the scalloped edge is worked in button-hole stitch; +the bouquet in the centre is worked in appliqué satin stitch--that is, +the leaves of the rose and the foliage are worked separately on muslin; +they are then cut out and worked in appliqué (see Nos. 113 and 116, +_Embroidery Instructions_) upon the cravat, as seen in the illustration. + + * * * * * + +154.--_Sandwich Case_. + +Materials: Strip of grey kid; strip of oil silk; 1 skein black silk; 1 +skein red purse silk; 1 hank steel beads; steel button. + +This case will be found very useful on the occasion of a journey or +picnic, as it can be carried in the pocket without any inconvenience. + +The case is made of a strip of grey kid, scalloped out at the edges. The +words "Bon appetit," or "Good appetite," at will, are worked over it in +overcast with black purse silk and steel beads, the scroll pattern in +chain stitch with red silk. The back and front of the case are formed of +the same strip, which is lined with oilskin, and to which narrow +side-pieces are added to form the pocket. These pieces are lined and +scalloped out in the same way as the back and front, and then the +scallops of both sides are joined together, and worked round in +button-hole stitch with purse silk. + +The case is fastened down with a steel button. + +If another colour is preferred, the sandwich case can be made of brown +kid. The scroll pattern should then be worked in rich blue purse silk, +and gold beads used for the letters, which should be embroidered as +before in black silk. The edge may be worked in double overcast stitch +in blue or black silk. A gold button must replace the steel when this +alteration of colour is made. + +[Illustration: 154.--Sandwich Case.] + + * * * * * + +155.--_Insertion_. + +Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. +16. + +This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch between two rows of +hem-stitching; a small eyelet-hole is worked in the centre of each +flower. + +[Illustration: 155.--Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +156.--_Cravat End in Raised Embroidery_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s. embroidery cotton Nos. 50 and +16. + +This pattern is a muslin cravat 32 inches long. The greater part of the +embroidered ends is worked in satin stitch; the leaves in the bouquet of +the centre are worked in raised embroidery. (See Nos. 113 and 116, +_Embroidery Instructions_.) + +The dotted lines are raised by taking four threads of the muslin on the +needle, draw it half out, wind the cotton twice round the point, holding +it tightly under the thumb, draw the needle out and insert it at the +place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out where the next stitch +is to be worked. + +[Illustration: 156.--Cravat End in Raised Embroidery.] + + * * * * * + +157.--_Lady's Purse_. + +Materials: Russia leather; blue silk; black purse silk; blue silk +soutache; fine gold braid; and gold thread. + +[Illustration: 157.--Lady's Purse.] + +This purse is embroidered upon Russia leather; an oval-shaped medallion +is cut out in the centre; a piece of blue silk is gummed on under the +leather so as to show within the oval; both leather and silk are then +lined with calico and stretched upon a small embroidery frame. The front +and back of the purse are made all of one piece, the centre of which is +the bottom; after the embroidery is completed a piece of leather is +added on each side to give the necessary fullness. Four flowrets are +worked over the blue silk, with black purse silk, in raised satin +stitch, with a dot in gold thread for the centre. The stems are black +and the leaflets gold. The inner border round the oval medallion is +worked in gold braid, and the outer one in blue soutache. The network +upon the leather is formed of threads of black purse silk, fastened at +every crossing with a stitch of gold thread; the outer border round this +network is formed entirely of gold braid. On the opposite side of the +purse initials may be worked in black and gold, over the blue silk oval +medallion. + +The purse is lined with brown watered silk, and mounted with a clasp of +gilt steel. + + * * * * * + +158.--_Table-Napkin Ring_. + +Materials: Crimson cashmere; _toile cirée_; 1 reel each of white, black, +green, blue, and yellow Chinese silk. + +[Illustration: 158.--Table-Napkin Ring] + +Stretch a strip of cashmere of a bright shade of crimson over a piece of +_toile cirée_, and work the pattern over it in point Russe with fine +silk. The outer borders have white and black outlines, and leaflets of +green silk. The stars have black and blue outlines, a yellow cross and +dots. The figure between the stars is black and yellow. + + * * * * * + +159 _and_ 160.--_Knife Basket_. + +Materials: Grey American cloth; red cloth; black jet beads and bugles; +red worsted braid, three-quarters of an inch wide; some strong wire; a +cigar-box. + +[Illustration: 159.--Knife Basket.] + +This basket is meant for holding dessert knives. It consists of a common +cigar-box nine inches and two-fifths long, five inches and four-fifths +wide, and two inches and one-fifth high, covered inside and out with +grey American cloth, which is ornamented with embroidery worked in +appliqué. The seams are made in overcast stitch. The feet consist of +four pieces of strong wire three inches and two-fifths long. These +pieces of wire are first covered with wool, and then with jet beads; +they are then bent into loops, and fastened on at the bottom of the box +by means of holes bored into it for that purpose. The feet must be +fastened before covering the inside of the box. The inside of the basket +is ornamented with an embroidered pattern in appliqué, which must also +be worked before covering the box. The leaves are made of red cloth, the +stems and veinings of black bugles. No. 160 shows the pattern in full +size; the flowers and leaves are edged with light grey purse silk, over +which small stitches in black silk are fastened at regular intervals. +Inside the box fasten a deal board covered on both sides with American +cloth, so as to divide the basket into two compartments, and fasten on +to this board a handle consisting of a piece of wire seven inches long, +wound round with beads. The basket is ornamented with ruches of red +worsted braid; between two box pleats of the ruche a black bugle is +fastened. + +[Illustration: 160.--Knife Basket.] + + * * * * * + +161.--_Satin Stitch Embroidery_. + +Materials: Purse silk of two colours, in 4 shades of green and 4 shades +of red or magenta for the flowers, gold twist. + +[Illustration: 161.--Fuchsia Spray.] + +This branch is embroidered with purse silk of the natural colours of the +flowers and leaves, or in different shades of one colour, on silk +canvas. Fuchsia blossoms are here designed, and should be worked in +raised embroidery; the stamens to be worked in gold twist. + + * * * * * + +162.--_Acacia Spray in Raised Satin Stitch Embroidery_. + +Materials: Four shades of green purse silk for the leaves; 1 skein of +brown silk; 3 shades of white or gold silk for the flowers. + +[Illustration: 162.--Acacia Spray.] + +This spray of acacia is worked in raised satin stitch embroidery; the +flowers should be carefully shaded, and the veinings should be worked +before the leaves are embroidered. The flowers may be worked gold +colour, or imitate the white acacia blossom. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 163.--Tobacco Pouch.] + +[Illustration: 164.--Tobacco Pouch.] + +163 _and_ 164.--_Tobacco Pouch_. + +Materials: Fine crimson cloth; bits of coloured and white cloth for the +pattern; purse silk of various colours; white kid; brass rings; gimp +cord; and silk tassels. + +This pouch is cut in four pieces, two of which are given in full size; +the two others must be worked after the same patterns. These patterns +represent the attributes of a lover of tobacco; they are cut out of +cloth and worked in appliqué over crimson cloth. + +In No. 163 the outer chain stitch border is green. The knot from which +the different articles are suspended is black, the cigar-case yellow in +cloth appliqué, the cigars brown in satin stitch. The case is crossed by +two rows of chain stitch in blue silk, and edged all round with +button-hole stitch, also blue. The two pipes are of white cloth, edged +round with yellow silk; the shade is imitated by long stitches of grey +silk. The upper part of the pouch is of blue cloth, with a white silk +edging and yellow dots; the under part of brown cloth with a black +edging and a pattern worked in chain stitch with white; the three +tassels are embroidered with black and yellow silk. + +In No. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the small +pattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the pipes of +white cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. The bundle of cigars +is of brown cloth, shaded with black silk stitches, and fastened on with +double rows of chain stitch in yellow silk. The cigar-case is of light +green cloth, edged with white; the Grecian pattern and dots are +embroidered over it with white silk also. + +To make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them together by +seams, which are hidden under yellow soutache; cut out also and join +in the same way four pieces of white kid for the lining, and fasten it +on to the crimson cloth at the top only. Sew small brass rings round the +top, and pass a double piece of crimson silk cord through them. Add silk +tassels of various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each of +its four corners. + + * * * * * + +165.--_Insertion_ + +Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. +16. + +[Illustration: 165.--Insertion.] + +This strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat trimmings. It +is worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in overcast stitch; the +circles can be filled up with lace stitches or with wheels, or the +pattern may be worked upon Brussels net and the linen cut away. + + * * * * * + +166.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, Workbaskets, &c._ + +Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glacé silk; gold +beads. + +This pattern is worked in French embroidery and point Russe, with +coloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. The thimble, cotton, and ribbon +are worked in appliqué with glacé silk. The colours are chosen according +to personal taste. The thimble is ornamented with small gold beads. A +bead is placed in the centre of each pair of scissors to imitate the +screw. + +[Illustration: 166.--Pattern for Needlebook, &c.] + + * * * * * + +167.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, &c._ + +Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads. + +The shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers in +point Russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double overcast; the +interior is filled with a netting worked in chain stitch or dotted +stitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and beads; the ribbon is +embroidered in appliqué, with a contrasting shade of silk ribbon. + +[Illustration: 167.--Pattern for Needlebook, &c.] + + * * * * * + +168 _and_ 169.--_Travelling Bag_ + +Materials: 20 inches of Java canvas; single Berlin wool of 2 shades of a +pretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white; floss silk--white, +brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue, +and grey; steel beads; brown silk fancy braid. + +[Illustration: 168.--Travelling Bag.] + +This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it is very +prettily worked. Besides the engraving showing the bag when completed, +the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. This bouquet is also +worked upon the Java canvas. For each petal the white wool is passed +several times from one stitch of the canvas to another till the required +thickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is worked at the point with white +silk. The centres are filled up in point d'or with 2 shades of yellow +silk. The buds are made like the petals, but with 3 stitches of white +silk at the point instead of 1. The leaves are worked in 2 shades of +green wool with 1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems are +embroidered in overcast with light brown wool. The scroll-pattern border +round the bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steel +beads. + +[Illustration: 169.--Bouquet for Travelling Bag.] + +The remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured purse +silk. The 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk, by +inserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas. When you +have worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the other, work on +either side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines of yellow silk, +which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the Java canvas being +covered by each stitch. Next to the inner yellow outline comes a border +worked over two strips of the canvas, in slanting stitches; this border +is alternately blue in one square and grey in the other. A star is +embroidered in point Russe in the centre of each square; it is grey in +the blue squares and blue in the grey; a steel bead is placed in the +middle of each star. The small crosses between the squares are worked in +cerise. The outer border of the work is composed of a piece of black +soutache, edged with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. The front +and back pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. The side +pieces are made of plain Java canvas. The embroidered part measures 14 +inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined with +light brown silk, and made up with a steel clasp. + + * * * * * + +170.--_Embroidery Trimming for Muslin Bodices_. + +Materials: Fine muslin; fine black silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +embroidery cotton No. 24. + +This pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a trimming. +It is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked in button-hole +stitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered with loose +button-hole stitch in black silk. The feather-like branches are worked +likewise in black silk in herring-bone stitch. The white spots are worked +in raised embroidery. The large oval openings through which a narrow +ribbon velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches: + +[Illustration: 170.--Trimming for Bodices.] + + * * * * * + +171, 172, _and_ 173--_Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery_. + +This handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin; if +lined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. The patterns, +which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked in point d'or; +the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine double overcast. The +flower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear raised on illustration on +account of the dark shadows, are worked separately and sewn on at the +corresponding places. No. 172 shows the wing of a bird, No. 173 a +rose-leaf somewhat increased in size; the former is worked entirely in +button-hole stitch, or trimmed with a ruche of coloured ribbon. This +pattern may also be worked on glacé silk with purse silk. + +[Illustration: 171.--Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery.] + +[Illustration: 172.--Wing of Bird.] + +[Illustration: 173.--Rose Leaf.] + +[Illustration: 174.--Pattern for Glove Box.] + + * * * * * + +174 _and_ 175.--_Glove Box_. + +Materials: 15 inches of French blue cashmere; silks of various colours. +A shape in bamboo cane, painted brown and varnished. + +[Illustration: 175.--Glove Box.] + +The ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. It is +embroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. Part of the +embroidery pattern is given in full size. All the outlines are worked in +overcast, the stitches being made rather long and slanting, and the +small leaves are each composed of one stitch, as in point Russe. The +leaves are alternately red and yellow upon a green stem; the scalloped +outline which has no leaves is red. The pine patterns are worked in +satin stitch--the centre one is green, edged with red; the side ones are +pink, edged with red; the small wing-like figures are black, edged with +maize; the diamond, maize, edged with black, with an outer rim of maize. +In the round pattern the centre is pink; the edge red, with red and +yellow leaves; the 3 outer circles are successively white, green, and +red; at the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow, +the side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green. + +The strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk, slipped +through the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined together at the +side by a seam. The cover is lined with plain blue cashmere, upon which +initials might be embroidered at discretion. The four corners are +ornamented with pretty silk tassels, of colours to match with the +embroidery. To fasten the box, sew on a blue ribbon to the cover, and +one to the box. + + * * * * * + +176 _and_ 177.--_Hanging Letter Case_. + +Materials: Crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and fine +gold bouillon. + +No. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size, No. 177 +the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full size. + +The letter case is composed of two parts. The larger part is 11 inches +long, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with a pattern +in gold soutache, and the word LETTERS or LETTRES embroidered in gold +bouillon; underneath there is a pattern embroidered in oval white satin +beads, edged round with fine white chenille; the scroll pattern is +embroidered in gold bouillon. + +The second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and forms +the pocket which contains the letters. The centre flower is composed of +11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another white bead is +placed in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon. The other flowers +are also composed of white satin beads, edged with gold bouillon. + +[Illustration: 176.--Hanging Letter Case.] + +[Illustration: 177.--Pattern for Embroidered Letter Case.] + + * * * * * + +178.--_Embroidered Edging_. + +Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. +24 + +[Illustration: 178.--Embroidered Edging.] + +This edging is worked in broderie Anglaise or overcast stitch; the edge +in scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in raised satin +stitch. The stems are worked in slanting overcast stitch (No. 122, +_Embroidery Instructions_). + + * * * * * + +179.--_Border in Oriental Embroidery_. + +Materials: Purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright red, 2 +shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet. + + +[Illustration: 179.--Border in Oriental Embroidery.] + +The four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting colours. +These ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. The outer row of +the first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright red. Following the +same arrangement, the second oval is of two shades of green; the third +of two shades of blue; and the fourth of two shades of yellow. The +knotted stitch in the centre is violet. The dots outside the ovals are +worked in satin stitch, and are alternately red, yellow, violet, and +blue. The stems are long stitches of black silk. The arabesque patterns +between those formed of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silk +of two shades of brown. The colours of the ovals may be varied as much +as you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns should +remain the same for the whole of the border. + + * * * * * + +180 _and_ 181.--_Embroidery Stars_. + +Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton +No. 40. + +These stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen collars +and cuffs. No. 180 is worked in successive rows of back-stitching, round +an open wheel; ladder stitch (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_) is +worked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms the +edge. + +[Illustration: 180.--Embroidery Star.] + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 181.--Embroidery Star.] + +No. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the star is +filled with lace wheels. + + * * * * * + +182 _and_ 183.--_Key Bag_. + +Materials: Grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glacé silk; purse silk of +5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and silver-grey, scarlet, and +white; grey silk cord; grey glacé silk ribbon. + +This bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. The embroidery +imitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves, and stems, in the +upper part of which sits an owl, "the + +[Illustration: 182.--Key Bag.] + +[Illustration: 183.--Key Bag.] + +bird of night." The poppies are worked with blue-green purse silk in 5 +shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown silk of 4 shades in +satin stitch, the colours blending one into the other, as can be clearly +seen in illustration No. 182. The eyes of the owl are embroidered in +scarlet and white silk. Illustration No. 183 shows the other side of the +bag, which is ornamented with steel-coloured silk appliqué figures, in +the form of a Gothic lock. They are edged with fine grey silk cord. The +screws of the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery with +silver-grey silk. After having lined each part, join the two halves of +the bag with a border of grey glacé silk ribbon, which must, of course, +continue round the revers. The bag is fastened by means of a loop and +steel button. + + * * * * * + +184 _and_ 185--- _Embroidery Patterns for Trimming Cravats, Bodices, +Morning Caps, &c._ + +[Illustration: 184--Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.] + +Materials: Muslin or cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 24 for +lingerie, No. 12 for couvrettes. + +These patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for trimming +various articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares they make +pretty covers. They can also be embroidered with coloured silk, wool, or +thread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming couvrettes and toilet +pincushions. The patterns should be embroidered in satin stitch and +edged with chain stitch; they can also be worked in button-hole stitch. +When the pattern is worked on woollen material this material must be cut +away inside the leaves and spots. + +[Illustration: 185.--Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.] + + * * * * * + +186 _and_ 187.--_Pen-Wiper in Cloth Appliqué_. + +Materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small white, and 4 +red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of cloth; small black +beads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory handle or figure. + +This pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of cloth. No. +187 is one of these circles seen in full size. There are 4 white and 4 +red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. In the centre of each +red circle place a white, and in the centre of each white circle a red +star, and work a cross over it with small round black beads. The +border, in herring-bone stitch, is worked with gold-coloured purse silk +on the red, and with black on the white cloth. The centre of the +pen-wiper is covered with a circle of white cloth larger than the side +ones, worked in point Russe and point Mexico in black silk. When all the +circles are prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth, +placing alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, and +between each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the edge. +The work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined with black +glazed calico, and a + +[Illustration: 186.--Pen-wiper in Embroidery.] + +small handle of carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in the +centre. The circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens. + +[Illustration: 187.--Full-sized Circle for Pen-wiper.] + + * * * * * + +188.--_Insertion_. + +Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton +No. 30. + +[Illustration: 188.--Insertion.] + +The flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin stitch +round an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the stars are +worked in point Russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which surround each +flower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished with a row of +hem-stitching on each side. + + * * * * * + +189.--_Insertion_. + +Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton +No. 24. + +This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch; the dots +and stems should be worked first, and the leaves afterwards. It is edged +on both sides with a row of hem-stitching. + +[Illustration: 189.--Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +190.--_Cigar Case_. + +Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk; gold +thread. + +The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light brown +Russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in well-raised +satin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter outlines shown in +the illustration are worked in gold thread. The border to be worked in +fine silk cord of the same colour as the leather, with a network of +black purse silk, stitched with gold at all the crossings. On the +opposite side of the cigar case + +[Illustration: 190--Cigar Case.] + +initials may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fine +leather, and the mountings gilt or steel. + + * * * * * + +191.--_Wicker Waste Paper Basket_. + +Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth fringe; and +glazed calico. + +[Illustration: 191.--Waste Paper Basket.] + +The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern. It rests +upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can be made by +any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room. The trimming +consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed calico, and put on +round the edge; the lower part of the border is trimmed with a woollen +fringe. The shades selected should correspond with the prevailing +colour of the room. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 192.--Insertion.] + +192.--_Insertion_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16. + +The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole stitch, and +embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted line is worked in +raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers which compose the centre +wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in overcast stitch. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 193.--Embroidered Linen Collar.] + +193 _and_ 194.--_Embroidered Linen Collars_. + +Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery +cotton No. 40. + +These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. No. 194 is +worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see Nos. 81, 82, 76, +and 73 of _Embroidery Instructions_), and point d'or with white cotton, +and point Russe with black silk. No. 193 is worked entirely with white +cotton in button-hole, satin, knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (See +Nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and 68 of _Embroidery Instructions_.) + +[Illustration: 194.--Embroidered Linen Collar.] + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 195--What-not in the Shape of a Hammock.] + +195 _and_ 196.--_What-not_. + +Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades of green +floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of yellow floss silk; +green chenille; cord and tassels. + +[Illustration: 196.--Pattern for What-not (full size).] + +This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant to place +upon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when completed, No. 196 +one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size; it is worked upon fine +canvas. The violets are in floss silk of three shades of violet, with +a raised spot worked in yellow silk in the centre, the leaves are worked +in Berlin wool of various shades of green, and the stems in overcast of +a light green shade. The pattern is grounded in tent stitch with +sea-green silk. The hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece +cut out in cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined +and quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top with +green chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the hammock is +fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off with tassels. + + * * * * * + +197.--_Embroidered Handkerchief_. + +Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +embroidery cotton No. 40. + +This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a handkerchief, +which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn. The design is +simple, but effective, and very easy to work. If worked on fine French +cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly tacked upon _toile cirée_. +The rows of raised dots should be worked first, and then the graceful +branches of pointed leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots might +be worked in bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. To +produce a good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40 +will be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourning +wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or the +leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in filoselle. + +[Illustration: 197.--Handkerchief Border.] + + * * * * * + +198 _and_ 199.--_Two Medallions for a Purse in Embroidery_. + +Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk; +steel or gold clasp. + +These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may be +employed on a variety of articles. + +[Illustration: 198.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.] + +[Illustration: 199.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.] + +The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satin +stitch, the branched sprays in point Russe in scarlet and gold, the four +largest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk. +Medallion No. 199 is worked entirely in point Russe, and may be +embroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, +or scarlet and black. + + * * * * * + +200.--_Work-Bag_. + +Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours; +embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; red +cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather. + +[Illustration: 200.--Work Bag.] + +This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The outside +consists of drab cloth, trimmed with appliqué embroidery. The inside of +the bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted in +diamonds. The seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strap +completes the whole. Cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut the +satin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. After +having traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces of +coloured cloth in appliqué embroidery. The different figures are sewn +over the centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches, +with embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in +chain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a +pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge must be +bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. The ends +of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded and +lined with red satin; the outside worked in appliqué embroidery like the +rest of the bag. All the seams are covered with red silk cord. The +straps are fastened with a few stitches, as seen in the illustration. + + * * * * * + +201 _to_ 203.--_Pattern for Braces_. + +Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico. + +[Illustration: 201.--Pattern for Braces (full size).] + +These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico ornamented with +embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side with +loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes in red wool. +Illustration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. Work +first the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; work +loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the +cross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on +the tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter +are then edged with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. The +vandykes are worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole +stitch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next +button-hole stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole +stitch, repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red +button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No. 203 +shows another + +[Illustration: 102.--Embroidered Braces.] + +way of working these braces on fine ribbed piqué. Work any Berlin wool +work pattern in the common cross stitch over the ribs of the piqué. For +the vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double +divided by 3 chain stitches. + +[Illustration: 203.--Pattern for Braces (Full size).] + + * * * * * + +204.--_Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk_. + +Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silver +brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread. + +This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and gold +thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. The dark +patterns are worked in appliqué with black velvet, the two other shades +in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is worked in satin stitch +with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. The +border can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is not +intended to contrast with it. The pattern can also be worked entirely in +silk with satin stitch. The size of the border may, of course, be +increased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must, +in any case, form the centre of it. + +[Illustration: 204.--Embroidery Border for a Reading Desk.] + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 205.--Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.] + +205.--_Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 6 and +No. 12; net and muslin. + +The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked over +net. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the veinings are +sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cut +away all round the pattern. + + * * * * * + +206.--_Venetian Border._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 12 and +No. 16; net and muslin. + +[Illustration: 206.--Venetian Border.] + +This design is elegant and effective, without there being a great deal +of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening dresses or +handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over, +and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the ground +work. + +[Illustration: 207.--Lace Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +_207.--Lace Insertion._ + +Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net. + +This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the net; +the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked in +overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circle +previously outlined; the lace stitches in the centre are formed by +gently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewn +lightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace stitches +consisting of fine button-hole stitches, very evenly worked over the +entire space surrounding the open holes. + +To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. This +pattern may be worked in appliqué by placing muslin over net, sewing all +the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when finished, carefully +cutting away the muslin. + + * * * * * + +208 _and_ 209.--_Slipper on Java Canvas._ + +Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle and +purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; some +wadding; 2 cork soles. + +[Illustration: 208.--Slipper on Java Canvas.] + +This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of light +brown Java canvas, and embroidered in point Russe with green filoselle. +It is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. The soles are of +cork. The slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbon +three-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is +turned down inside. No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitch +nearly full size. + +[Illustration: 209.--Point Russe Stitch for Slipper (No. 208)] + + * * * * * + +210 _and_ 211.--_Medallions in Point Russe_. + +Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. + +These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers, +cushions, borders, &c. They are worked with coloured filoselle in point +Russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted stitch, on cloth, +velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of both medallions contrasts +with the colour of the ground, and must therefore be worked in appliqué +on the latter with herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border. +The wreath on No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which +imitate small blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is left +to the personal taste of the worker. + +[Illustration: 210.--Medallion in Point Russe.] + +[Illustration: 211.--Medallion in Point Russe.] + + * * * * * + +212.--_Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner_. + +Materials: French lawn or cambric; fine black silk. + +This butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in order +more closely to imitate etching. It is worked in point Russe and scallop +stitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in button-hole scallop +stitch, the stitches being taken very closely together, but not raised +by the usual method of placing chain stitches beneath the button-hole +stitches. The outlines and flowers are worked in point Russe, the dot in +knotted stitch (see No. 73, _Embroidery Instructions_.) + +[Illustration: 212.--Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner.] + +The initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch, and +should be worked with great regularity. + + * * * * * + +213 _to_ 215.--_Pattern for a Couvrette in Appliqué_. (_see pages +576-7_.) + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 24 and +30; cambric muslin; Brussels net; flesh-coloured silk; sewing silk of +the same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue silk; brown silk; gold +thread. + +This style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed covers. It is +worked in cambric muslin and silk, over Brussels net. + +The arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the outlines are +embroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away all round. The +medallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon them are cut out of +flesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon tissue-paper, then upon +the blue silk; the figures are further fastened upon the medallions in +overcast stitch with fine silk of a rather darker shade of flesh-colour. +The scarfs are cut out of bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver and +arrows and all the other attributes are worked in gold thread; the hair +in fine brown silk. The edge of the blue silk medallions is worked round +in button-hole stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when the +couvrette has to be cleaned. A border in open ladder stitch is worked +round them (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_). The openings in the +centre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches. + + * * * * * + + + + +CROCHET + + + +INSTRUCTIONS. + +[Illustration: A Crochet-Needle] + +Cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the materials +required for working crochet. The needle, whether it be steel or bone, +must be smoothly polished. The long wooden and bone crochet-needles are +used for wool; for cotton and silk work short steel needles screwed into +a bone handle are best. The beauty of the crochet-work depends upon the +regularity of the stitches, as is the case with every other style of +needlework. The stitches must be elastic, but if too loose they look as +bad as if too tight. The size of the needle and that of the cotton or +wool must correspond; work only with the point of the needle, and never +move the stitch up and down the needle. The cotton with which you work +must be of the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes, +imitation of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes, +counterpanes, covers, &c., use knitting-cotton. All crochet-work +patterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds of +foundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and the +purl foundation chain. + +The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches. + +[Illustration: 216.--Plain Foundation Chain.] + +ILLUSTRATION 216.--Form a loop with the cotton or other material with +which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for +knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. The +crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and +forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of +the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the +cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton +from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and +draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast +off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the +cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has +acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made, +take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left +hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of +the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the +needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop. + + +[Illustration: 217.--Double Foundation Chain.] + +ILLUSTRATION 217 (_The Double Foundation Chain_).--Crochet 2 chain +stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st +chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the +cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the +needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last +stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it +through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation +chain is long enough. + + +[Illustration: 218.--Purl Foundation Chain.] + +ILLUSTRATION 218 (_Purl Foundation Chain_).--* Crochet 4 chain stitch, +then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert +the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain +stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch, +wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the +cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding +the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle, +and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain +stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following +crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they +are all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make +a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216), +and take it on the needle. + + +[Illustration: 219.--Slip Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 219 (_Slip Stitch_).--Draw the needle through the back part +of a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through the +back part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round the +needle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. The +illustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is left +quite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to be +inserted for the next stitch. + + +[Illustration: 220.--Double Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 220 (_Double Stitch_).--These are worked nearly like the +preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of a +stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the two +loops on the needle. + + +[Illustration: 221.--Double Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like the +preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in the +following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch of +the preceding row. + + +[Illustration: 222.--Ribbed Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 222 (_The Ribbed Stitch_).--This stitch is worked backwards +and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together, +which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back part +of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is +not worked, however, in the following row. + + +[Illustration: 223.--Slanting Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 223 (_Slanting Stitch, double stitch_).--This stitch is +worked like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round the +needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in +the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as +a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch. + + +[Illustration: 224.--Cross Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 224 (_Cross Stitch_).--This stitch is worked like No. 223 +on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the two +upper sides of a stitch. + + +[Illustration 225:--Long Double Stitch.] + +Illustration 225 (_Long Double_).--For this stitch wind the cotton round +the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton +out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off +together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round +the needle. + + +[Illustration 226.--Treble Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 226 (_Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are worked as has +been described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treble +stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the +preceding row. + + +ILLUSTRATION 227 (_Long Treble_).--These are worked like treble +stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the double +long treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton three +times round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round the +needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The +two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the +cotton round the needle. + +[Illustration: 227.--Long Treble Stitch.] + +[Illustration: 228.--Double Long Treble Stitch.] + + +[Illustration: 229.--Cross Treble Stitch.] + +[Illustration: 230.--Cross Treble Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (_Cross Treble_).--Illustration 229 shows this +stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course of +the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble, +insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross +treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the +cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and +cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop +formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the +needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the +needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the +2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the +third stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2 +loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain +stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting, +work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of +foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown +by the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble +stitch. + +[Illustration: 231.--Cross Treble Stitch.] + + +[Illustration: 232.--Raised Spots.] + +ILLUSTRATION 232 (_Raised Spots_).--The grounding on which these spots +are worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows of +the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being +placed between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of double +stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as +follows:--1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of +the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only +completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble +stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed +as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there +remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see +illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton +once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot +the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at +intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row. + + +[Illustration: 233.--Hollow Spots.] + +ILLUSTRATION 233 (_Hollow Spots_).--The ground is worked in double +crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist of +5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5 +stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle +between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5 +treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1 +stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely +without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth +treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the +cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the +spot. + + +[Illustration: 234.--Open-work Spots.] + +ILLUSTRATION 234 (_Open-work Spots_).--These spots are treble stitches +divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they +are worked like the raised spots (illustration 232). + + +[Illustration: 235.--Raised Treble Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 235 (_Raised Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are long +treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown +across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on the +same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch +of the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a row +in ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the +treble stitches begin only in the 4th row. + + +[Illustration: 236.--Purl Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 236 (_Purl Stitch_).--These purl stitches imitate a lace +edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain +length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in +the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see +illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a +loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on. + + +[Illustration: 237.--Purl Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 237 (_Purl Stitch turned upwards_).--Work 1 treble, then 7 +chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch +downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see +illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton +through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3, +missing 3 stitches under it. + + +[Illustration: 238.--Purl Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 238 (_Purl Stitch turned downwards_).--The chain stitches +form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain +stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper +chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through +the loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needle +and cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purl +stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances. + + * * * * * + + + +CROCHET PATTERNS. + + +239.--_Small Crochet Basket_. + +Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of +pink and silver twine; a crochet needle. + +[Illustration: 239.--Small Crochet Basket.] + +For the bottom: Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3 +chain, and repeat three times more. + +2nd round: Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long +into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place, +make 3 chain, and repeat. + +3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last +round. + +4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by +working twice into it. + +5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat. + +For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long +stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine. + +2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1 +chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch +between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and +1 chain stitch alternately. + +3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into +each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way, +then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in +length, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted over +wire. + + * * * * * + +240 to 243.--_Couvrette in Crochet_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 10, and +steel crochet needle. + +This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles representing +dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242 shows one of these +large circles in full size, No. 241 one of the small circles placed in +the spaces between the larger ones, No. 243 part of the border, and No. +240 the couvrette when completed, but in reduced size. + +For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it into a +circle. + +1st round: 30 stitches of double crochet over the circle of chain +stitches. + +2nd round: 36 stitches of double crochet. + +3rd round: 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1. 4th round: + +[Illustration: 240.--Couvrette in Crochet.] + +The same as the preceding--the 1 double always on the 3rd chain. + +5th round: Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the centre stitch of +each loop. + +6th to 12th round: The same as the 5th, close double crochet, increasing +in the centre of each small scallop, which forms the 18 raised petals of +the dahlia. + +13th round: Here begins the open-work border round the dahlia. Work 1 +double between 2 petals, taking together the 2 centre stitches, 1 double +in the next, 5 chain. There will be 18 loops of 5 chain in the round. + +14th to 17th round: 1 double in centre of each loop, 5 chain between. +18th round: 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1 treble in next +loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3 double, with 3 chain +between each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same all round, and the large +circle is completed. Six of these are required. + +[Illustration: 241.--Showing one of the small Circles full size of No. +240.] + +For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it into a +round. + +1st round: 16 stitches of close double crochet. + +2nd round: 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times. + +3rd round: 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double between. This +completes 1 of the 6 small circles placed round the large ones in the +centre of the couvrette. The 6 that are placed between the 5 other large +circles have 1 more round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in the +centre of 1 scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3 +chain between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round. + +[Illustration: 242.--Showing one of the large Circles full size of No. +240.] + +When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen in +illustration 217, and work the border as follows:-- + +1st round: 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a small circle, 8 +chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble in 3rd trefoil, 8 +chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1 long treble in 1 +trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the 4 next trefoils of +the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain, 1 long treble in the +last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain. Repeat all round. + +2nd round: 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first stitch of last +round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain between next stitch. +Repeat from *. + +3rd and 4th rounds: The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble always in 1 chain. + +5th round: In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain between the 2nd and +3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all round. + +6th round: The same as the 5th. + +7th round: 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of the treble, 6 +chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the couvrette. + +[Illustration: 243.--Border for Couvrette.] + + * * * * * + +244.--_Star in Crochet_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 80, or with +No. 8 or 10 for couvrettes. + +A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty strips of +insertion. For this purpose they should be worked with fine cotton. They +may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and cravats, the material +being cut away underneath. If worked with crochet cotton No. 8 or 10, +they will make nice couvrettes, bed-quilts, &c. + +[Illustration: 244.--Star in Crochet.] + +The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70 stitches, and +join it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work 1 extra long +treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle under the chain, +then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2 extra long double, miss +4, and work 1 double, inserting the needle _under_ the 5th. Repeat 13 +times from * Fasten off, and for the centre of the star work as +follows:-- + +1st round: * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double in the next 7 +chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus forming 1 loop. Repeat +from * 5 times more. + +2nd round: 12 double on the first loop of chain of the first branch, 1 +double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip the stitch which is +upon the needle in one of the stitches of the foundation chain of the +outer circle, work 1 double in the first of the 2 chain last made, then +12 double in the remaining loop of chain of the branch, and 1 double at +the bottom of the branch. Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre star +must be joined on to the outer circle at regular distances. + + * * * * * + +245.--_Crochet Silk Bag over Rings_. + +Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse +twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and +strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left; +rings. + +Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten +off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ring +and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring, +and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work +over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the +rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in +the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in +the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab +with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate +colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to +the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join +the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the +second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring +to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one +opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the +other 5 in the same way. + +[Illustration: 245.--Crochet Silk Bag.] + +For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4 +long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the +centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work +4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single +crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into +the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2 +chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2 +chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the +diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12 +rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the +lower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of +double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st +round: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work +12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain +stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of +the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that +is remaining after working the crochet. + + * * * * * + +246.--_Crochet Sovereign Purse._ + +Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few +steel beads; and a steel clasp. + +The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised +rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel +beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where +necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in +coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the +beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when +required. + +[Illustration: 446.--Crochet Sovereign Purse.] + +The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little +raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the _upper_ +side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both +sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except +where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with +beads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without +the least difficulty from the illustration. + + * * * * * + +247.--_Stars in Crochet_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8 or 20. + +This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according +to the size of the cotton with which it is worked. + +Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1st +stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch, +repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8 +chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work +(without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the +centre. + +1st branch.--1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a +purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2 +stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18 +chain. + +2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between +over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double +over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2 +double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the +last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the +leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the +second branch. + +1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to form +a circle. + +[Illustration: 247.--Stars in Crochet.] + +2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitch +work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in each +of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st +round. + +3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work in +double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between, +then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. Before +beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of the +circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained; +cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of the +branches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:-- + +1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purl +under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet to +the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make a +slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 +slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five times +more. + +2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual--that +is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain. Now work 1 trefoil +(thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1 +double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4 +chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from +*. + +Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration. + + * * * * * + +248.--_Crochet Purse over Rings._ + +Materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of maize +coarse purse silk. + +Work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches; this is the +centre ring for the bottom of the purse. + +[Illustration: 248.--Crochet Purse over Rings.] + +Then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take another ring +and work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6 rings, then work round +the other half of each ring 19 stitches; and when the 6 are finished, +join the first to the last to make a circle; sew the maize ring into the +centre of it, then work over 12 rings with black in the same manner, and +place them outside the cerise circle. Then work over 16 rings with maize +colour, and join them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; they +are to stand up to form the sides of the purse. Work over 16 rings with +cerise, and these you can join one to each of the former rounds in +working the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. Work +over 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the cerise. +For the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of the ring a +stitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the stitch joining the +8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain, repeat. Then work 4 rounds +of single open crochet. + +6th round: * Work a stitch of double crochet and 1 chain alternately, +missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a long stitch, make 1 +chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another +long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a long stitch into +the next loop, repeat from *. + +7th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work +another long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch +of double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat from * 3 times +more, miss the next 1 chain, * work a stitch of double crochet into the +next 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from +the beginning. + +8th round: Join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 +chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 2 chain, work +another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a 4th long +stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double +crochet into the 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 2 +stitches of double crochet, * work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 +chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the +beginning. + +9th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work +another long stitch into the same place, repeat the stitches of double +crochet with 1 chain between, as in last round, then repeat from the +beginning. 10th and 11th rounds the same as the 9th. Add a tassel at the +bottom, and strings run into the last row of open crochet complete the +purse. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 249.--Crochet Brioche Cushion.] + +249.--_Crochet Brioche Cushion_. + +Materials: 10 skeins of 12-thread fleecy, of six shades of red (these +should be most of the darker shades); 2 skeins of white ditto; 1 skein +of white filoselle. + +Make a chain of 196 stitches with the darkest shade of red wool, and +join it into a circle. Work 1 round of raised spots thus:--Turn the wool +5 times round the needle, insert the needle in 1 chain, and draw it +through all the loops, then work 1 slip stitch, insert the needle in the +next stitch, work 1 double, and begin a fresh spot. Continue in the same +way all round. + +2nd round: Divide the round into 7 parts; work 12 spots with the 3rd +shade of red, always working 1 double between each spot, and taking care +to place them between those of preceding round: after 12 spots, work 1 +double, then 12 more, and so on. + +3rd round: 3rd shade of red, 11 spots, 1 double. + +4th round: 4th shade, 10 spots, 3 double. + +5th round: 5th shade, 9 spots, 5 double. + +6th round: Same shade, 8 spots, 7 double. + +7th round: 5th shade, 7 spots, 9 double. + +8th round: Same shade, 6 spots, 11 double. + +9th round: Same shade, 5 spots, 13 double. + +10th round: 6th shade, 4 spots, 15 double. + +11th round: Same shade, 3 spots, 17 double. + +12th round: Same shade, 2 spots, 19 double. + +13th round: Same shade, 1 spot, 21 double. The pattern of raised spots +being now completed, continue to work with the lightest shade of red in +double stitches, decreasing once above each pattern, so as to close up +the circle gradually. The white flowers are worked over the plain part +of the cushion with white wool, and silk for the petals, and a black dot +in the centre. The cushion is stuffed with horsehair and lined with +glazed calico. A round of thick pasteboard is stitched in at the bottom, +to make it stand firmer. + + * * * * * + +_250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette._ + +Materials: For a large couvrette, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's +Head cotton No. 8; for pincushion covers, mats, and such-like small +articles, Boar's Head cotton No. 16 or 20. + +A pattern of this description is most useful, as it can be converted to +so many purposes. Counterpanes, couvrettes of every description, mats, +pincushions, and a thousand other things can all be arranged from the +design. + +[Illustration: 250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette.] + +Each circle is made separately, and joined to the others, as the last +row is crocheted. Begin in the centre; make 8 chain, insert the needle +in the first, and make * a long treble stitch, then make 3 chain, +repeat 4 times from *, always inserting the needle in the 1st chain +stitch, join the last chain to the 5th of the 1st 8 chain to close the +round. + +2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, * 9 chain, turn, work a slip stitch in +each of the 9 chain; work round the stem thus made in close crochet, +working 3 stitches in 1 to turn at the point; miss 1 stitch of preceding +row, work 2 double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more, making 6 +petals in all. + +3rd round: Work at the back of the last row, behind the petals; make 1 +petal between each petal in last row, 1 double crochet at the back of +each, and cut the cotton at the end of the round. + +4th round: 2 double crochet at the point of each of the 12 petals, 5 +chain between each petal. + +5th round: 2 treble, 5 chain, repeat. + +6th and last round: 1 double crochet in the centre of the 1st 5 chain, * +5 chain, 1 treble in the centre of the next 5 chain, 5 chain, 1 slip +stitch in the top of the treble stitch, 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in the +same place, 5 chain, a 3rd slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, 1 +double crochet in the centre of the next 5 chain, repeat from * to the +end of the round. There should be 12 trefoil patterns in the round. + +For the couvrette join the circles together, as shown in illustration, +in working the last round. As many circles can be added as may be +required for the couvrette. + + * * * * * + +251.--_Crochet Lace_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40 or 60. + +This lace produces a very good effect when worked with fine cotton. Make +a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row entirely in +double stitch. + +2nd row: * 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, miss 1 stitch under +it; repeat from *. + +3rd row: 1 long treble in the 3rd stitch of the preceding row, * 3 purl +(each consisting of 5 chain, 1 double, in the 1st of the same), 1 long +treble in the same stitch of the preceding row, 1 purl, miss 3, 3 double +in the 3 following stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, 1 long treble in +the 4th stitch; repeat from *. + +[Illustration: 251.--Crochet Lace.] + +4th row: * 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of the preceding +row, 1 purl, 2 long treble divided by 3 purl in the middle of the 3 next +double in the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. + +5th row: * 2 long treble, divided by 3 purl in the middle of the next 3 +double of the preceding row, 1 purl, 3 double in the middle of the next +3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. Repeat the 4th and +5th rows alternately till the border is wide enough. + + * * * * * + +252.--_Crochet Border_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12, 16, 24, +or 40. + +[Illustration: 252.--Crochet Border.] + +This border is suitable for a great variety of purposes, according to +the size of the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it will make a +trimming for couvrettes and berceaunette covers; with fine cotton it can +be used for children's clothes, small curtains, &c. Make a sufficiently +long foundation chain, and work the 1st row: * 2 treble divided by 3 +chain in the 1st foundation chain stitch, miss 3; repeat from *. + +2nd row: * In the 1st scallop of the preceding row, 1 double, 5 treble, +1 double, then 1 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the +four), 1 chain, miss under these the next chain stitch scallop; repeat +from *. + +3rd row: 1 treble in the chain stitch on either side of the purl in the +preceding row, 5 chain. + +4th row: * 2 double divided by 7 chain in the two first treble of the +preceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper parts of the +stitch), 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these 10 stitches so as +to form a loop, 4 chain, repeat from *. + +5th row: * 1 slip in the middle stitch of the scallop formed by 7 chain +in the preceding row, 4 treble, 3 chain, 5 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble, +all these 13 stitches in the loop of the preceding row, so as to form a +clover-leaf pattern; repeat from *, but fasten the 4th treble with a +slip stitch on the 10th treble of the preceding figure. + +6th row: In the first and last stitch of the 5 middle treble of the +clover-leaf 1 double, 7 chain between, 7th row: * 1 double in the 2nd +chain stitch of the scallop which is above the 5 middle treble of the +clover-leaf, 2 chain, 1 purl (5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), 2 +chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch of the same scallop, 2 chain, 1 +purl, 2 chain, miss one chain of the scallop, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, +2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch, 3 chain. 1 double in the +middle stitch of the following scallop, 3 chain, repeat from *. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 253.--Crochet Border.] + +253--_Crochet Border_ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 24, 40, or +60, according to the article for which it is required. + +On a sufficiently long foundation chain work the 1st row: 1 double in +each chain stitch. + +2nd row: Alternately 1 double, 7 chain, miss under the latter 3 stitches +of the preceding row. + +3rd row: 1 treble in each double of the preceding row, 1 double in the +middle stitch of each scallop, 2 chain between. + +4th row: 1 double on each double of the preceding row, 1 treble on each +treble, 3 chain between. + +5th row: 1 double on each treble of the preceding row, 3 chain between. + +6th row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row. + +7th row: * 1 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, 4 chain, +miss 1, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, miss 3 stitches, 3 treble +in the following 3 stitches, 4 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, 3 chain, +miss 4; repeat from *. + +8th row: Repeat regularly 8 treble in the scallop formed of 4 chain in +the preceding row, 1 double in the middle of the following 3 chain. + +9th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 treble, 1 +long treble in next treble but 2, 2 long treble in each of the 2 +following treble, 1 long treble, 2 treble in the next treble, 1 double +in the next treble but 2, 3 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip), 3 chain +stitch; repeat from *. + +10th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1 +purl, 2 chain, miss 2 under them, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 +double in the next chain but 1 of the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 +chain, 1 double in the 2 chain stitch after the purl of the preceding +row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain; repeat from *. + +11th row: In each scallop of the preceding row 2 double (they must meet +on either side of the purl); they are divided alternately by 5 chain, +and by a scallop formed of 2 chain, 1 purl, and 2 chain, only in the +chain stitch scallops which join the two treble figures work no double, +but 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain. + + * * * * * + +_254 to 257.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet._ + +Material: Berlin wool in two colours. + +[Illustration: 254.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet.] + +The seat and back of this arm-chair are covered with two round +couvrettes, worked in crochet with Berlin wool of two colours. They are +fastened on the chair with woollen braid, finishing off with tassels of +the same colour. Begin each couvrette in the centre with a foundation +chain of 6 stitches, with the lightest wool; join them into a circle, +and work the 1st round in the following manner:--12 double. + +2nd round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next stitch of the 1st round, +inserting the needle in the upper part of the stitch; repeat from * 11 +times more; at the end of this round work 1 slip stitch in the 1st chain +of this round. We shall not repeat any more the repetitions from * to +the end of the round. + +3rd round: * 4 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding +round; at the end of the round 4 chain. + +4th round: 4 double in each scallop of the preceding round. + +5th round: Begin to work with the darker wool and crochet slip stitch, +inserting the needle in the front chain of the stitches of the 4th +round. + +The 6th round is worked once more with light wool, and consists entirely +of double stitch, worked by inserting the needle at the back of the +stitches of the 4th round, so that the slip stitches appear raised on +the right side of the work, and form a round of chain stitches. The +middle part of the couvrette is then finished. + +[Illustration: 255.--Pattern for Arm Chair Border.] + +[Illustration: 256.--Border for Arm Chair (254).] + +Illustration 257 shows it in full size. + +7th round: * 2 chain, missing 1 stitch of the preceding round under +them, 1 double. + +8th round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding +round. + +9th round: 3 double in each scallop. + +10th round, like the 5th; + +11th round, like the 6th; + +[Illustration: 257.--Couvrette for Arm Chair (254).] + +12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th rounds, like the 7th--11th; + +17th--19th rounds like the 7th--9th. + +20th round: Alternately 1 treble with the light wool, 1 treble with the +dark; but every treble stitch must be cast off with the wool of the +colour of the next stitch; that is, a light treble stitch with the dark +wool, and a dark treble stitch with the light wool. Now and then crochet +2 treble stitches in one stitch of the preceding round, so that the +couvrette remains perfectly flat. + +21st round: 1 double in every stitch. + +The 22nd--31st rounds consist of a double repetition of the 7th--11th +rounds. + +The 32nd and 33rd rounds are made in open work like the 7th and 8th +rounds. + +The 34th round is worked in treble stitches like the 20th round. Then +work the outer border. It consists of chain stitch scallops which are +worked alternately with dark and light wool. Illustration No. 256 shows +a part of the border with the treble round in full size. Work from it +with the light wool 1 double on 1 light treble stitch of the preceding +round, 5 chain, 1 double, on the next light treble, throw the wool off +the needle and let it hang over the right side of the work; crochet with +the dark wool 1 double on the treble stitch between the 2 double of this +round, leave the wool on the right side of the work; 5 chain, 1 double, +on the next dark treble. Take the needle again out of the loop, draw the +wool on to the right side, and work the next chain stitch scallop again +with the light wool. + +Instead of this border, pattern No. 255 may be worked. It consists of 3 +rounds to be worked after the 34th round of the couvrette. + +1st round of the border: With dark wool, * 1 double in 1 stitch, of the +34th round; 1 double, 3 treble, 1 double, in the next stitch; repeat +from *. + +2nd round: With the light wool, * 1 treble, inserting the needle in the +next treble stitch of the 34th round, thus working over the double +stitch between the spots of the preceding round; 1 chain. + +3rd round * 3 double in each chain stitch of the preceding round. To +work the 2nd of these 3 double, insert the needle at the same time in +the upper part of the middle treble of the 1st round. + +4th round: Dark wool, * 1 double in each double of the preceding round, +miss 1, and work 3 treble in the next stitch but one; the last of these +3 treble is cast off with light wool, miss 1, and continue to work with +the light wool 1 double in the next stitch but one, miss 1, 3 treble in +the next stitch, cast off the last with the dark wool, miss 1; repeat +from *. + + * * * * * + +_258 to 260.--Crochet Insertions._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30, 40, or +60. + +[Illustration: 258.--Crochet Insertion.] + +These insertions are worked with crochet cotton of sizes which depend +upon the use you wish to make of them. The insertion seen in +illustration 258 is worked the long way in 8 rows. Make a sufficiently +long foundation chain, and work the 1st row as follows:--1 slip stitch +in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 5 chain, miss 3, 1 double in the +next stitch but 3, repeat from *. + +2nd row: 1 slip stitch in the middle of the 1st 5 chain, * 3 chain, 1 +slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain, repeat from *. + +3rd row: 1 treble in the 1st stitch, * 1 leaf worked as follows: 6 +chain, then without noticing the loop left on the needle 1 long treble +in the 2nd and 1 in the 1st of the 6 chain; these stitches are not cast +off separately, but together with the loop left on the needle. Then 5 +chain, miss 7, 1 treble in the 8th stitch, repeat from *. + +4th row: 1 double in the 1st of the 5 chain, * 8 chain, 1 double in the +1st of the next 5 chain, repeat from *. + +5th row: * 1 leaf as in the 3rd row, 1 double in the double stitch of +the preceding row, 5 chain, repeat from *. + +6th row: 1 treble in the point of the 1st leaf, * 7 chain, 1 treble in +the point of the next leaf, repeat from *. + +7th and 8th rows: Like the 1st and 2nd. + + +[Illustration: 259.--Crochet Insertion.] + +The insertion seen in illustration 259 is worked in 6 rows, and is begun +in the centre on a foundation chain sufficiently long not to be worked +too tight. + +1st row: 4 double in the 1st 4 stitches, * 4 double divided in the same +way on the other side of the foundation chain, inserting the needle in +the 1st row into the 2 chain. Illustration 260 shows an insertion which +imitates darned netting; it is worked on a grounding imitating netting +with raised figures. The grounding consists of 9 rows. Work on a +sufficiently long foundation chain the 1st row as follows: 1 cross +treble in the 1st and 3rd stitch, * 2 chain, missing 2 stitches under +them, 1 cross treble in the 6th and 8th stitch, repeat from *. + +2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, miss 4 under them, 1 +double in the 5th stitch, repeat from *. + +3rd to 8th rows: 1 double in the middle stitch of every chain stitch +scallop, 4 chain between. 9th row: Like the 1st. Work from illustration +square patterns on this grounding, consisting each of 4 leaves; for +these leaves carry on the cotton taken double in double windings from 1 +double stitch to another, so as to have 4 threads lying close to each +other; darn these as can be seen in illustration, with single cotton. + +[Illustration: 260.--Crochet Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +261.--_Crochet Lace_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30. + +[Illustration: 261.--Crochet Lace.] + +A particular kind of purl makes this border look very like guipure lace. +Begin with a foundation chain worked in the following manner:--* 3 +chain, the last of them forms 1 purl; this is made by drawing out a long +loop on the needle, taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it in +the chain stitch before the last one, drawing the cotton through it, and +continuing to work so that the loop out of which the needle has been +drawn forms 1 purl. All the purl must be equally long; to do this more +easily the loop may be kept on the needle till a chain stitch has been +worked in that which comes just before the purl, continue the foundation +chain, and repeat from *. + +1st row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 1 chain, 1 +slip stitch in the nearest purl of the foundation chain; repeat from *. + +2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 1 stitch +under it; 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch of the preceding row; repeat +from *. + +3rd row: Like the 1st. + +4th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, +missing 5 stitches under them; 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. + +5th row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, * 1 +double in the middle of the next 5 chain of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 +chain, 1 purl, 1 chain; repeat from *. + +6th to 9th rows: Alternately like the 4th and 5th rows. + +10th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 6 chain, 1 double long treble +(throw the cotton 3 times round the needle) in the 1st of these chain +stitches; the stitch is only completed so far as still to leave 2 loops +on the needle; 1 double long treble in the same chain stitch. This +stitch is cast off so as to leave in all 3 loops, and the cotton over +the needle; these loops are cast off together by drawing the cotton once +through them. This forms 1 leaf, or one-half of the bell-shaped +patterns. 3 purl, 1 chain, 1 leaf like the preceding one, 1 slip stitch +in the 1st of the first 6 chain stitches; the other half of the pattern +is then completed; 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the +middle stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, +1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop +11th row: 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 +chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 +chain, 1 slip stitch in the following purl, 1 purl (the 3 purl which are +worked on the 3 purl of the bell-shaped pattern are made in this row and +in the following one as follows:--Crochet 1 chain after the slip stitch, +leave it for 1 purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip stitch), +1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the +following scallop, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. 12th row: 3 purl on +the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 3 chain between, 1 purl, 3 chain, +1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain +stitches, 1 bell-shaped pattern like those of the 10th row, 1 purl, 3 +chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. + + * * * * * + + + +CROCHET D'OYLEYS IN IMITATION OF POINT LACE. + + +262--_D'Oyley No_. 1. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20. + +Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, unite it. + +Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 9 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, 1 +double crochet, unite it to the 1st stitch. + +Round 2: 3 single crochet up the 3 1st of the chain in last row, *, 5 +long into the loop of 9 chain, 1 chain, repeat from *. + +Round 3: 1 long into the 1 chain in last round, 9 chain, repeat. + +Round 4: 11 double crochet into the 9 chain in last round, repeat. + +Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. + +Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, 5 chain, repeat. + +Round 7: The same as 6th. + + +No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 4 chain, repeat from * 5 times more. + +Round 2: Into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 4 long, and 1 double +crochet, repeat. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet over the double crochet in 1st round, 6 chain, +repeat. + +Round 4: Into the 6 chain in last round 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 +double crochet, repeat. + +Round 5: 1 double crochet over the one in 3rd round, 8 chain, repeat. + +Round 6: Into the 8 chain 1 double crochet, 8 long, 1 double crochet, +repeat. + +Round 7: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 5th round, 10 chain, repeat. + +Round 8: Into the 10 chain 1 double crochet, 10 long, 1 double crochet, +repeat. + +Round 9: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 7th round, 12 chain, repeat. + +Round 10: Into the 12 chain 1 double crochet, 12 long, 1 double crochet, +repeat. + +Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 9th round, 14 chain, repeat. + +Round 12: Into the 14 chain 1 double crochet, 14 long, 1 double crochet, +repeat. + +Round 13: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 11th round, 14 chain, repeat. +Work 3 patterns of No. 2 for this d'oyley. + + +No. 3.--Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it. Into the circle 1 +double crochet, *, 2 long, 3 chain, repeat from * twice more, 2 double +long, 4 chain, 2 double long, * 3 chain, 2 long, repeat from * twice +more, 1 double crochet, 7 chain. Repeat from the beginning. In working +the 2nd pattern, join it to the 1st with the 2nd 3 chain, work 3 leaves +in this manner, then make only 3 chain, and work a 4th leaf without +joining it to the 3rd, make 3 chain after 4th leaf, and work a stitch of +double crochet into last 7 chain, make 3 chain. Work a 5th leaf, and +join it to the 4th as before, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 7 +chain, 3 chain. Work a 6th leaf in the same way, and join it; but make +no chain stitch after the 6th leaf. Work 3 patterns of No. 3 for this +d'oyley. + + +No. 4.--The same as No. 3, only work 4 leaves instead of 6, 2 on each +side. Work 3 patterns of No. 4 for this d'oyley. + + +No. 5.--Work the 3 1st leaves of No. 3 This is not repeated in this +d'oyley. + +[Illustration: 262.--D'Oyley No. 1.] + + +No. 6.--Make a chain of 15 stitches, and unite it. Work into the circle +1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double, 6 long, 5 chain, 6 double long, 7 +long, 1 double crochet, 7 chain, joining the 7th long stitch to the +corresponding stitch in 1st leaf, 3 chain. Work the 3rd leaf the same as +the 1st without joining it to the 2nd, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into +the 7 chain, 3 chain, work a 4th leaf, and join it to the 3rd, 3 chain, +and join it to the 1st stitch of double crochet at the beginning of the +1st leaf. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 7.--Tie a round of cotton about this size O. + +Round 1: 20 double crochet into the round. + +Round 2: 2 double crochet into successive loops, work 2 into 3rd loop, +repeat. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet into every loop. + +Round 4: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. + +Round 5: Into the 5 chain in last round 2 long, 5 chain, 2 more long +stitches into the same place, 2 chain, repeat. + +Round 6: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, 5 +chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 8.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it. + +Round I: 28 double long into the circle. + +Round 2: 2 double crochet between each long in last round. + +Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. + +Round 4: 3 long into the 2 chain, 1 chain, repeat. + +Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, 5 chain, +repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 9.--1st row: Make a chain of 30 stitches, work 1 long stitch into +the 6th, *, 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat +from * to the end of the row. + +2nd row: 11 chain, *, 1 double crochet on the other side of the chain +into the centre one of the 3 between the long stitch, 1 chain, turn, and +work into the 11 chain 3 double crochet and 9 long, 11 chain, repeat +from * 7 times more, work into the chain stitches at the end 3 loops of +11 chain with the double crochet and long stitch as before, then work +the other half of the pattern to correspond. 3rd row: Into the space +between the long stitches 5 double crochet, 2 chain, repeat. This +pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 10.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: Into the circle 24 double long, with 1 chain between each. + +Round 2: 2 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat. + +Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. + +Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, 5 chain, +repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 11.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 20 long into the circle. + +Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet, 6 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. + +Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 6 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 5: 10 +double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat. + +Round 6: 1 long, 2 long into the next loop, repeat. + +Round 7: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. This pattern +is not repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 12.--Make a chain of 21 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 30 double +crochet into the circle. Round 2: *, 21 chain, join it to the 18th, work +into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 +long, 7 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long and 1 double +crochet, 1 single crochet into the 1st double crochet, 3 chain, 4 double +crochet into the 3 chain, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 +chain, 4 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3 chain, 4 double crochet into +the same place, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4 +double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the +stitches of double crochet at the end, 3 single crochet down the 3 for +the stem, 9 single crochet into successive loops round the circle, +repeat from * twice more. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 13.--*, make 9 chain stitches, turn, 1 double crochet into each +loop, repeat from * twice more, then work round both sides of these 3 +points 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop at the top of each +point, work twice into the same loop, then 5 chain, 1 double crochet +into each end, unite the 5th to the last of the centre point of 9. This +pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 14.--Round 1: * make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, repeat +from * 4 more times. + +Round 2: 1 double crochet into 6 successive loops, 3 stitches into the +7th, 1 into each of the next 6 loops, repeat. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre 1 +of the 3 in last, 7 chain, miss 6, repeat. + +Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. This pattern is +not repeated. + + +No. 15.--*, make a chain of 19 stitches, unite it, 3 long into +successive loops, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 +double crochet into the next loop, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the +same place, 5 chain, work into successive loops 1 double crochet, 2 +long, 3 double long, 3 long, unite the last to the first, 9 chain, +repeat from * once more, then 5 double crochet into the 5 1st of the 9 +chain, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each, and 1 into each of the 4 +remaining of the 9 chain. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 16.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, *, work into successive loops 2 +double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, 2 more double crochet into the +same loop as the last, repeat from * once, make a chain of 24 stitches, +unite to the 20th, work into the circle, *, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long, +repeat from * 12 times, work into the 3 chain 1 long, 3 chain, work +another long into the same place, repeat, join the last with 1 single +crochet to the last of the 24 chain, 2 double crochet over the 2 of the +leaf, 7 long into successive loops, 4 double long into successive loops, +4 long into the next loop, and 1 long into the next. This pattern is not +repeated. When all these pieces are done, join them as shown in the +engraving, sewing them firmly together with the same cotton, then work +an edging round in the following manner:--1st row: 1 double long into +the 4 chain at the point of the leaf of No. 4 pattern, 7 chain, 1 double +long into the 2nd 3 chain in the same leaf, 8 chain, 1 double long into +the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 15 chain, 1 long +into the 4 chain of No. 6 pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of +the next leaf in the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain +from the join of the 11th pattern, 6 chain, 1 single crochet into the +2nd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd +5 chain from the last, 6 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the +last, 12 chain, work into the 2nd 5 chain from the join of the 7th +pattern 1 long, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 5 chain, 9 +chain, 1 long into the next 5 chain, 8 chain, 1 double crochet in the +1st 3 chain from the join of 4th pattern, 11 chain, 1 double crochet +into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 6 chain, 1 +double crochet into the last 3 chain of the same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double +crochet into the 3 chain of No. 5 pattern, 6 chain, 1 long into the 7 +chain between the leaves of the same pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the +next 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of the 3rd leaf of +the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 of double +crochet from the join of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the +centre of the 2nd 5 double crochet from the last, 11 chain, 1 single +crochet into the 2nd 5 of double crochet from the last, 12 chain, 1 +double crochet into the 7 chain of 15th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double +crochet into the 6th long stitch of the same leaf, 11 chain, 1 double +crochet into the end of the stem of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double long +into the 1st 3 chain of the 4th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double long into the +last 3 chain of the same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3 +chain of the 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 3 chain of No. 16 +pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of the same pattern from +the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the +10th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 12 +chain, 1 double crochet into the centre of the 7 of double crochet in +12th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 5 double crochet of same +pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain in centre of same +leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 8th +pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, +10 chain, 1 double long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of single, +13 chain, and join it to the double long stitch at the beginning of the +row. 2nd row: *, 12 chain, and unite it, 1 chain to cross, and on the +other side into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3 +chain, 2 double long, 4 chain, then work down the other side to +correspond, 8 double crochet into successive loops of the foundation, +repeat from *, joining the leaves in the 1st 3 chain. + + * * * * * + +_263.--D'Oyley No. 2._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20. + +Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 +double crochet into each loop. + +Round 2: 2 double crochet into each loop. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet, 2 double crochet into the next loop, repeat. + +Round 4: 1 double crochet into each loop. + +Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. + +Round 6: 9 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat. + +Round 7: 9 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 5th of +the 9 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double +crochet, and repeat. + +Round 8: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 9 in last round, 11 +chain, repeat. Round 9: 15 double crochet into the 11 chain in last +round, repeat. Round 10: 15 double crochet into successive loops, +beginning on the 8th of the 15 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet +into the last double crochet, repeat. Round 11: 1 double crochet into +the centre one of the 15 in last round, 17 chain, repeat. Round 12: 21 +double crochet into the 17 chain in last round. + +[Illustration: 263.--D'Oyley No. 2.] + + +No. 2.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: *, 7 chain, 1 +double crochet into the circle, repeat from * twice more. + +Round 2: 12 long into the 7 chain, repeat. + +Round 3: 2 long into each loop. + +Round 4: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. + +Round 5: 2 long into the 2 chain in last round, 1 chain, repeat. + +Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 5 chain, repeat. + + +No. 3.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: Into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double long, 4 +chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet. + +Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop. + +Round 3: 2 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 long and repeat, 4 long at the point, +finish with a single stitch, 3 chain, and repeat this once more. + + +No. 4.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, chain of 15 and unite +it, chain of 13 and unite it, work 6 double crochet into successive +loops, beginning on the 1st of the 1st loop of 13, 3 into the next loop, +and 1 into each of the 6 next, 1 double crochet into each of the 1st 7 +of the loop of 15, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 7, 1 double +crochet into each of the 6 1st of the next loop of 13, 3 into the next, +1 into each of the next 6. + +2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. + + +No. 5.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: Into the circle 3 double crochet, 3 long, 3 double long, 5 +treble long, 3 double long, 3 long, 3 double crochet. + +Round 2: 1 double crochet into each of the 9 1st loops, 2 into each of +the 2 next, and 3 into the next, 2 into each of the 2 next, and 1 into +each of the 9 next. Round 3: 1 long, *, 3 chain, 1 long into the next +loop, repeat from * at the end, unite the last to the 1st stitch, 9 +chain, repeat from the beginning; in uniting the last stitch of the 2nd +leaf, take up the centre stitch of the 9 chain with it, make 5 chain, +and work a 3rd leaf in the same manner; in uniting the last stitch of +the 3rd leaf, take up the last of the 5 chain with it, make 9 chain, +turn, and work 1 double crochet into each, join the last to the last of +the 5 and 9 chain stitch. + + +No. 6.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 5 chain, repeat 5 times more. + +Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double crochet, +repeat. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet over the 1st double crochet in last round, 7 +chain, repeat. + +Round 4: Into the 7 chain in last round 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 +double crochet, and repeat. + +Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last round, 11 +chain, repeat. + +Round 6: Into the 11 chain in last round 3 double crochet, 9 long, 3 +more double crochet, repeat. + + +No. 7.--1st row: Make a chain of 20 stitches. 1 long into the 15th, *, 2 +chain, miss 2 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * to the end of +the row. + +2nd row: Turn, into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double +crochet, repeat this to the end, then into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, +2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, work the other side to +correspond. + +3rd row: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last row, 7 +chain, and repeat to the point, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the +double long, work the other side to correspond. 4th row: Into the 7 +chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single into the last double crochet, +4 more double crochet into the same place, repeat. + + +No. 8.--1st row: 1 chain of 7 stitches, 1 double crochet into each of +the 6 1st, 3 stitches into the 7th, work on the other side of the chain +to correspond. 2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. +3rd row: 5 double crochet into the 3 chain, repeat. + + +No. 9.--The same as No. 3 in the 1st d'oyley, only 5 leaves instead of +6, 2 on each side, and 1 at the end; 2 of these will be required for +this d'oyley. + + +No. 10.--Work the 2 1st leaves of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley; 3 of these +will be required for this d'oyley. + + +No. 11.--Work only 1 leaf of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley. This is not to be +repeated in this d'oyley. + + +No. 12.--The same as No. 4 in 1st d'oyley. + + +No. 13.--The same as No. 5. + + +No. 14.--The same as No. 8 in 1st d'oyley. + + +No. 15.--The same as No. 10. + + +No. 16.--The same as No. 11 in the 1st d'oyley. + + +No. 17.--The same as No. 2 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required. + + +No. 18.--The same as No 6 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required. +When all these pieces are done, sew them firmly together, and work the +edging round in the following manner:--1 double crochet into the 1st 4 +chain of 9th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of +same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, +10 chain, 1 double crochet in the 4 chain of same leaf, 8 chain, 1 long +into the 4th of the 5 chain, from the joining of 15th pattern, 4 chain, +1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 +chain from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the last 3 chain of 10th +pattern, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 9 +chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long +into the 1st double crochet from the join of No. 6 pattern, 9 chain, 1 +long into the next stitch of double crochet after the long stitch, 16 +chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of 14th pattern, 8 +chain, 1 double crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 +chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of double crochet, +9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double +crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into +the 4 chain of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 +chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from the join +of 17th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 14 chain of same +pattern, 14 chain, 1 long into the 4th 5 chain from the join of 16th +pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 6 +chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet +into the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the +last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 +chain of 2nd leaf, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of +2nd leaf, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 10th +pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of same pattern, 6 +chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 11 chain, 1 +double crochet into the 4 chain of 11th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double +crochet into the last 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the +centre 3 chain of 1st leaf of 12th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet +into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf same pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet +into the 4 chain of same leaf, 10 chain, 1 long into the 5th 3 chain +from the join of the 3rd pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd +3 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, +1 long into the 1st 14 chain from join of 17th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long +into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 10 chain, and unite. 2nd row: +The same edging as to 1st d'oyley. + + * * * * * + +264.--_D'Oyley No. 3._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20. + +Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 3 in same +d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 4 in same d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 5, +2 patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 7, 1 pattern +from No. 8; and 1 from No. 10 in same d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 11 in +1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3 +in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 9 in same d'oyley, and 2 from No. +10. + +Then 1 pattern in the following manner:--Round 1: Make a chain stitch of +12 stitches, 1 double crochet, 10 long into successive loops, 1 double +crochet, 1 double crochet at the point, and work down the other side to +correspond. + +Round 2: 2 long into each loop. + +Round 3: 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat. + +Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 3rd round, 5 chain, +repeat. + +Work 1 pattern in this way, 1 chain of 14, 1 double crochet into each, 5 +chain, 1 double crochet into the last double crochet, turn, 6 double +crochet into the circle, with 3 chain between each, into each 3 chain, 5 +long, turn, 1 double crochet between each of the 5 long, with 6 chain +between each double crochet, turn, into the 1st double crochet 1 long, 2 +chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 treble long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2 +chain, 1 long all into the same place, 1 double crochet into the 6 +chain. Repeat this 5 times more, then work down the 7 of 14, 7 long, and +7 of single crochet. The edging to be the same as in the former +d'oyleys. The 1st round of the edging takes up so much space to write, +that we think it better to leave it to the judgment of the worker. It +will be seen by the engraving when it is necessary to work a double long +or long stitch, or a stitch of single or double crochet, and the number +of chain stitches between must be just sufficient to make the circle +perfect. The best way is to cut a round of blue paper and place them on +it from the engraving, then sew them together, and tack them to the +paper, and work the 1st row of the edging before removing the paper. + +[Illustration: 264.--D'Oyley No. 3.] + + * * * * * + +265.--_D'Oyley No. 4._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20. + +Work 3 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 1 pattern +from No. 4, 1 pattern from No. 5 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 6, +and 1 from No. 8 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, +and 1 leaf from No. 3 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 11 in 2nd +d'oyley, and the following pattern. + + +No. 1.--Make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 29 double +crochet into successive loops, turn, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 2 double +long, 8 treble long into 4 loops, 8 double long, 9 long, 4 double +crochet, 3 chain, work down the other side to correspond, then 1 double +crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all round. + + +No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 2 double crochet +into successive loops, * 2 chain, miss two loops, 1 long into the next, +repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 3 double crochet into +successive loops, 1 double crochet into every loop on both sides. Next +round: * 5 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet, 3 long, miss 2 +loops of the foundation, 1 double crochet, repeat from * at the point, +miss only 1 loop, work 2 patterns of this number. + + +No. 3.--Make a chain of 36 stitches, turn, miss 2 loops, 2 long, *, 1 +chain, 3 long, repeat from * 3 times, 1 double crochet, turn, *, 4 +chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st chain stitch, repeat from * 3 +times, at the point make 5 chain instead of 4, work down the other side +to correspond, turn, and into each of the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 7 +long, and 1 double crochet, at the point 10 long instead of 7, 2 double +crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 28, turn, miss 12 loops, 1 single +crochet, then into the circle 20 long, turn, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, +miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain in last +row, 5 chain, repeat, turn, into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 7 chain, +repeat, turn, into the 7 chain 1 double crochet, 1 long, 7 double long, +1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem, 1 double crochet, +1 long, 4 double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 1 chain of 14, turn, +miss 3 loops, 10 long, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, turn, 1 +double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, into the 3 chain 1 +double crochet, 5 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem in +double crochet. + + +[Illustration: 165.--D'Oyley No. 4.] + +No. 4.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: Into the +circle 16 long. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop, 3 chain after +each. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, repeat. Round +4: 4 long into the 3 chain, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet, make 3 +chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. *, for the leaves, 1 chain of 22, turn, 4 +double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, 1 chain +to cross the stem, on the other side 1 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double +long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 2 double crochet at the point, work down +the other side to correspond, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1 chain of +8, repeat from *, 1 chain of 12, and unite it to the 3 chain of the +round, turn, 12 double crochet down the stem, work another leaf in the +same manner, then work a stem of 8, and make another leaf the same as +before, finish with a stem of 8. + + +No. 5.--Round 1: Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it, 1 double +crochet, miss 3 loops, 12 chain, repeat twice more. Round 2: Into the 12 +chain 2 double crochet, 13 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 2 +double crochet into successive loops, 13 long into successive loops, 2 +double crochet into successive loops, repeat. Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, +miss 3 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 2 double crochet, 5 +long, 2 double crochet, repeat. + + +No. 6.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 double +crochet into each loop. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop. Round +3: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. Round 4: 1 +long, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 3 double +crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 3 more +of double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. Round 6: 1 +long into the 4 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 7: Into the 7 chain 4 +double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, +4 more double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. When all +these pieces are done sew them together, as shown in the engraving, and +work the edging to correspond with the other d'oyleys. + + * * * * * + +266.--_D'Oyley No. 5._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and +1 skein of fine embroidery cotton, by the same makers. + +Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 5 times more. + +Round 2: Into the 7 chain 11 stitches of double crochet, repeat. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 11, 9 chain, miss 5 loops, +1 double crochet into the next, 9 chain, repeat. + +Round 4: Into the 9 chain 13 double crochet, repeat. + +Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 13, 7 chain, miss 3 loops, +repeat. + +Round 6: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, and repeat. + + +No. 2.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 7 times more. + +Round 2: 6 chain, miss the 1st, then work into successive loops 2 double +crochet and 3 long, 1 double crochet into the 1 double crochet in 1st +round, repeat. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 5 chain, and repeat. + +Round 4: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double +crochet, 3 long, 1 double long, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, +repeat. + +Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in the 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat. + +Round 6: Same as 4th. + +Round 7: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 5th round, 6 chain, repeat. + +Round 8: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double +crochet, 3 long, 2 double long. + +Round 9: Same as 7th. Round 10: Same as 8th. Two of these patterns will +be required for this d'oyley. + +[Illustration: 266.--D'Oyley No. 5.] + + +No. 3.--Make a chain of 16, and unite it. + +Round 1: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, +repeat. + +Round 2: 6 double crochet into successive loops, 5 chain, 1 single +crochet into the last double crochet, repeat. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3rd of the 6, 13 chain, repeat. + +Round 4: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat. + +Round 5: 1 long and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each. + +Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 1 chain, 1 double crochet +into the next chain, 5 chain, work another double crochet into the same +place, 1 chain, repeat. + + +No. 4.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 6 times more. + +Round 2: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat. + +Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double +crochet, 3 long, and 2 double long, 1 double crochet into the last of +the 5 double crochet, repeat. + +Round 4: 1 double crochet at the top of the point, 4 chain, miss 1 loop, +1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet +into the next, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1 in last round. Work +the other side of the point to correspond. Two of these patterns will be +required for this d'oyley. + + +No. 5.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop. + +Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. + +Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops, 5 double +crochet and 2 long, miss 1 of the last round, work 4 double crochet into +successive loops, repeat 3 times more, at the end of the round work 4 +more double crochet. + +Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all, round the 4 +points and 2 stitches beyond the 4th, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into +each of the 7, finish the round with 3 chain and 1 double crochet as +before. + + +No. 6.--Make a chain of 5 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 4 times more. + +Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, repeat till 5 +double crochet are done, repeat. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 7 chain, repeat. + +Round 4: Same as 2nd. + +Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 3rd round, 7 chain, repeat. + +Round 6: Same as 2nd. + +Round 7: Same as 5th. + +Round 8: Same as 2nd, only 4 chain instead of 3. + +Round 9: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 7th round, 8 chain, repeat. + +Round 10: The same as 8th, only making 5 chain instead of 4. Four of +these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. + + +No. 7.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat twice more. + +Round 2: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, +repeat. + +Round 3: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, 11 chain, work +2 more leaves in the same way, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 4 +chain, repeat round 2 sides of the leaf, 3 chain, repeat the stitch of +double crochet and 4 chain round 2 sides of each leaf, joining them with +3 chain. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. + + +No. 8.--1st row: Make a chain of 14 stitches, miss the 1st, and work +into successive loops 5 double crochet, 5 long, 3 double long, turn. 2nd +row: 2 double long into each of the 3, 9 long into successive loops, 5 +long into the double crochet at the point of the leaf, 9 long into +successive loops, 6 double long into the next 2 loops, 9 double long +into the end of the 1st row, unite the last to the first double long in +2nd row. 3rd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. No +loop to be missed at the point, then work with the embroidery cotton a +smaller leaf on it in satin stitch, raising it first with the cotton. + + +No. 9.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 20 long into the circle. + +Round 2: 1 double crochet, taking both sides of the loop, 9 chain, miss +1 loop, repeat. + +Round 3: Double crochet into the centre of the 9 chain, 7 chain, repeat. + +Round 4: Into the 7 chain of last row 1 double crochet, 1 long, 3 +double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, then work 2 patterns from +No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns with 3 leaves +from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns with 2 leaves, and 1 pattern with +1 leaf, work 3 patterns from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley. + +When all these patterns are done join them as shown in the engraving, +and work the edging as directed in the former d'oyleys. + + * * * * * + +267.--_D'Oyley No. 6_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20. + + +Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop. + +Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, and 1 into the next, repeat. + +Round 3: Increase to 30 double crochet. + +Round 4: 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, 5 double crochet, +and repeat 5 times more. + +Round 5: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 5 in last round, 11 +chain, repeat. + +Round 6: 1 double crochet into every loop. + +Round 7: 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st, 12 double crochet, and +repeat. + +Round 8: 1 double crochet into the 6th of the 12, 15 chain, repeat. + +Round 9: 1 double crochet into every loop. + +Round 10: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 1 double +crochet, 2 long, and 3 double long, miss 5 loops of the last round, work +1 double crochet, repeat. + +Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in last round, miss 1 loop, 1 +double crochet into the next, *, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat from * 4 +times more, repeat from the beginning of the row. + + +No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 30 double crochet into the circle. + +Round 2: 1 double crochet, 13 chain, miss 5 loops, repeat. + +Round 3: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat. + +Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd of the 5 chain, +miss 1 loop, repeat. Four patterns of this number will be required for +this d'oyley. + +[Illustration: 267.--D'Oyley No. 6.] + + +No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. + +Round 1: 1 double crochet, 11 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 3 times more. + +Round 2: Into the 11 chain, *, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single +crochet into the 1st chain, repeat from * twice more, 3 more double +crochet, repeat from the beginning of the row. + + +No. 4.--Make a chain of 6, and unite it. + +Round 1: 1 long, 4 chain, repeat 5 times more. + +Round 2: Into the 4 chain in last row 1 long, 4 chain, work another long +into the same place, 2 chain, repeat. + +Round 3: Into the 2 chain 3 double crochet, into the 4 chain 1 double +crochet, 11 chain, work another double crochet into the same place, +repeat. + +Round 4: Into the 11 chain 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet +into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 single crochet +into the 1st of the 7, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into +the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet into +the centre one of the 3 in last round, 2 chain, repeat; then work 2 +patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns +from No. 4, 3 from No. 6, and 1 each from Nos. 11, 13, and 14 in 1st +d'oyley, 1 pattern from each of Nos. 3 and 4 in 2nd d'oyley, 2 patterns +from No. 2 in 5th d'oyley, and 1 pattern each from Nos. 4 and 6 in the +5th d'oyley. Sew these pieces firmly together as shown in the engraving, +and add the edging as before. + + * * * * * + +268.--_D'Oyley No. 7._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and +1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton. + + +Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 16 stitches and unite it. + +1st round: 2 double crochet into each loop. + +2nd round: 1 double crochet into each loop. + +3rd round: 1 double crochet, 9 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. + +4th round: Into the 9 chain 11 double crochet. + +5th round: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. + +6th round: Into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet +into the one double crochet, work another double crochet into the 2 +chain, 2 double crochet into the next 2 chain, repeat. + +7th round: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 2 in last round, 13 +chain, repeat. + +8th round: Into the 13 chain 11 double crochet, repeat. + + +No. 2.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, +make a chain of 15 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make a +chain of 13 stitches, 1 double crochet into each. + +2nd row: 1 double crochet into the end of each of these points, then +work round _both_ sides of these points in double crochet, working twice +into the end of each point. + +3rd row: 3 double crochet over the 3 at the beginning of last row, *, 4 +chain, single crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, work a +long stitch into the next, repeat from * all round, at the beginning and +end of the 3rd point miss 2 loops instead of 1, then work a stitch of +double crochet into the 1st of the 3, 6 chain, miss the 1st, work into +successive loops 2 long and 3 double crochet, 1 double crochet into the +last of the 3. This completes the pattern. + + +No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: 2 double +crochet into each loop. + +2nd round: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 2 double crochet into the next, +repeat. + +3rd round: 2 double crochet into successive loops, 2 double crochet into +the next, repeat. + +4th round: 11 double crochet into successive loops, *, 9 chain, miss 2 +loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from *. + +5th round: 11 double crochet over the 11 in last round, work into the 9 +chain 5 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the +chain, 5 more double crochet into the same place, repeat. + +6th round: 13 double crochet over the 11 in last round, *, 15 chain, 1 +double crochet over the 1st of the 5 in last round, repeat from *. + +7th round: 13 double crochet over the 13 in last round, *, work into the +15 chain 8 double crochet, 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into +the 1st of the 5, 8 double crochet into the same place, repeat from *. +This completes the pattern. Then work a circle in satin stitch on the +plain part of the pattern with the Fine Embroidery Cotton. Two of these +patterns will be required for this d'oyley. + +[Illustration: 268.--D'Oyley No. 7.] + + +No. 4.--Make a chain of 16 stitches, and unite it. * make a chain of 10 +stitches, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 3 double crochet, +3 long, and 3 double long, unite the last double long to the 4th of the +16 chain in the circle, repeat from * 3 times more, *, work in single +crochet to the top of the point and down 6 stitches of the other side, +then make a chain of 8 stitches, miss the 1st, work into successive +loops 3 stitches of double crochet, 2 long, and 2 double long, unite the +last to the 3rd of the next point, and repeat from * 3 times more. Three +of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. Work 2 patterns +from No. 2 in the 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the same +d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 5, and 1 from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley, +work 2 patterns with 1 leaf from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 1 pattern +with 2 leaves, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the 5th d'oyley, and 1 +pattern from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, and 1 from No. 6, work 6 +patterns from No. 3 in the 6th d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in the +same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 6th d'oyley. Join these +pieces as before, and add the same edging. + + * * * * * + +269.--_D'Oyley No. 8_ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and +1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton. + + +Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 9 stitches, work a stitch of double +crochet into each of the 8 1st, work 2 into the 9th, work down the other +side of the chain to correspond, and unite it. + +2nd round: *, Work 1 long, make 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st +of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat from *. No loop to be missed at +the point. When this round is finished, make 10 chain, miss the 1st, and +work into successive loops 2 long, and 7 of double crochet, then make 15 +chain, unite to the 7th, and work into the circle 1 double crochet, make +5 chain, repeat 5 times more. + +2nd round: Work into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, and 1 of +double crochet, repeat. + +3rd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. +Three of these patterns are required for this d'oyley. + +[Illustration: 269.--D'Oyley No. 8.] + + +No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches. 1st round: Work 2 double crochet +into each loop. + +2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. + +3rd round: Work into the 9 chain 1 long, make 1 chain, work another 1 +long into the same place, make 1 chain, work a third 1 long into the +same place, make 7 chain, and repeat. + +4th round: Work into the centre of 3 long 2 long, make 5 chain, work 2 +more long into the same place, make 5 chain, work into the centre of the +7 chain 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, work another of double crochet +into the same place, make 5 chain, and repeat. Two of these patterns +will be required for this d'oyley. Work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st +d'oyley, work 1 pattern from Nos. 3, 4, and 6, work 1 pattern with 3 +leaves from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 with only 1 leaf, work 1 pattern +from each of Nos. 13 and 14 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from 2 in 5th +d'oyley, and 1 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. +6 in 5th d'oyley, work 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, and 2 from +No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 1 in 7th d'oyley, +work 2 patterns from No. 3, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in 7th d'oyley, +then sew them together as before. + + * * * * * + +270.--_D'Oyley No. 9_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20. + + +Pattern No. 1--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite ir. + +1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 11 times +more. + +2nd round: Work 1 double crochet into every loop. + +3rd round: *, Make 11 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work 10 double crochet +down the chain, miss 1 loop, work 7 double crochet and repeat from * 5 +times more. + +4th round: Work 1 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 10, make 5 +chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops, +work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 double crochet into the +point, work down the other side to correspond, make 2 chain, miss 3 +loops, work 1 double crochet, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, and repeat. + +5th round: Work into each of the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 5 long +stitches, and 1 double crochet. + + +No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it. + +1st round: Work a stitch of double crochet into 1 loop, work 2 double +crochet into the next, repeat. + +2nd round: * Work 3 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet +into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat from * 9 times more, work 2 double +crochet. + +3rd round: * Make 21 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in the centre +one of the 3, turn, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, make 5 +chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, work 7 double +crochet into the 21 chain, repeat from * 8 times more. + +4th round: Work 15 double crochet into each loop of 21 chain, above the +last 7 work 20 double crochet into the last loop of 21, make 5 chain, +turn, work 1 single crochet into the last of the 5 chain, 7 double +crochet, make 4 chain. + +5th round: Work 19 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 7 in the +1st loop of 21 chain, * make 6 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work into +successive loops a stitch of double, 3 long, 1 double long, then miss 4 +double crochet stitches, work 5 double crochet into successive loops, +make 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, +5 double crochet into successive loops, repeat from * 8 times more, then +work 12 double crochet. Two of these patterns will be required for this +d'oyley. + +[Illustration: 270.--D'Oyley No. 9.] + + +No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. + +1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 9 times +more. + +2nd round: Work into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, make 17 chain, work +another stitch of double crochet into the same place, make 1 chain, work +1 double crochet into the next 3 chain, make 1 chain, and repeat. + +3rd round: Work into the 17 chain 20 double crochet, work 1 double +crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into the +next 1 chain, and repeat. + +4th round: Work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last +round, * work 5 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the +1st of the 20, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the +5, repeat from * twice more, then work 5 double crochet into successive +loops, and repeat from the beginning of the round. Two of these patterns +will be required for this d'oyley. + + +No. 4.--Make 21 chain and unite it, make a chain of 27 and unite it, +make a chain of 21 and unite it. 1st round: Work in the 21 chain 25 +stitches of double crochet, work into the 27 chain 31 double crochet, +work into the 21 chain 25 double crochet. 2nd round: Work 3 stitches of +double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, work 1 single +crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat this 6 times more, then work +3 double crochet and repeat from the beginning in the centre loop, +repeat this 9 times instead of 7. Two of these are required for this +d'oyley. + + +No. 5.--Make a chain of 44 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, +turn, make 21 chain, work 1 double crochet into the 4th chain on the +other side, * make 21 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet into +the next, repeat from * 9 times more, work 1 single crochet into the end +loop, work 44 double crochet into successive loops, work 15 double into +the 1st loop of 21, work 4 double crochet into each loop of 21, and 15 +into the end one, then * work 2 double crochet, make 3 chain, work 1 +single crochet into the 1st of the 3, repeat from * all round. + +Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 from No. 3, 2 with 3 +leaves, and 2 with 2 leaves, from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from +No. 6 in same d'oyley, and 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, sew +them together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before. + + * * * * * + +271.--_D'Oyley No. 10_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20. + +Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 19 stitches, turn, miss 5 loops, work 10 +double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 long, make 3 chain +stitches, miss 3 loops, work 1 long stitch, make 3 chain stitches, work +a stitch of double crochet into the last loop, then work into the 1st 3 +chain on the other side, 1 double crochet, 5 long, work into the next 3 +chain 4 long stitches, work 4 long stitches into the next 3 chain +stitches, then work into the 5 chain at the point 8 long stitches, then +work down the other side to correspond, * make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, +work 1 long, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch into the same place, make +1 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, miss 1 loop, work +1 double crochet, repeat from * 7 times more, then work into the 1st 3 +chain 1 double crochet, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch, * make 1, work +1 double long stitch, repeat from * twice more, make 1 chain, work 1 +long; all these stitches are worked into the same 3 chain, then work 1 +double crochet into the chain stitch between the 2nd and 3rd long +stitches, repeat this 7 times more; this finishes the leaf; then make 16 +chain, and work a second leaf the same as 1st, then work 2 double +crochet down, then make 12 chain, and work a third leaf the same as 1st, +work 14 stitches down the stem, and work a 4th leaf the same as 1st, +work 8 double crochet down the stem, work a 5th leaf the same as 1st, +make a chain of 40 stitches, turn, and work back in double crochet. + +[Illustration: 271.--D'Oyley No. 10.] + + +No. 2.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it, *, work a stitch of +double crochet into the circle, make 13 chain, and repeat from * five +times more, then work 17 stitches into each of the 13 chain, then work 2 +stitches of double crochet, beginning on the second of the 13, *, make 5 +chain stitches, and work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st of the +5 chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, and repeat from * 5 +times more; for the stem make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, * work 5 +stitches of double crochet, make 5 chain, turn, and work a stitch of +single crochet into the 1st, repeat from * 4 times more, then work down +the other side to correspond; then work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st +d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 2 with only two leaves, and 2 from No. 6 in +the same d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, and 3 from +No. 3 in 6th d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 9th d'oyley, and 1 +from No. 3; work 3 patterns from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, sew the +pieces together as before, and work the edging. + + * * * * * + +272 _and_ 273.--_Work-Basket in Straw and Silk Crochet-Work_. + +Materials: Straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch wide; small +glass beads; a piece of bamboo cane. + +This basket has a cover formed of two pieces. It can be employed for +many things, and is formed entirely of crochet-work with brown silk +over straw. A ruche trimmed with beads and bows of brown silk ribbon +form the trimming of the basket. The straws over which you crochet must +be damp, so as not to be stiff. They should be of unequal length, and +when you join the two ends of two straws together, try to hide the +beginning with the other straws. Begin the basket in the centre of the +bottom part with 46 stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of this +first row, working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches, +the double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the last +round over wire. + +[Illustration: 273.--Bottom of Work Basket (272).] + +It is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep the work +flat. When you have finished the bottom begin the border of the basket, +which is worked of the same piece with it, and consists of 11 rounds. + +It is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds without +increasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9 rounds +increase 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the edge may be a +little wider in the upper part. In the last round add a piece of wire to +the straws. + +[Illustration: 272.--Work Basket in Straw and Crochet.] + +The cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. Begin in the middle +with 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half circle, +working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each row turn the +straws, and take care that the rows which are finished form a straight +line. Each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the last one is worked +over wire. The two halves are united at the straight sides by a brown +silk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is sewed on underneath, and which +forms a sort of hinge; sew on also a piece of wire covered with brown +silk, so as to make the hinge stronger. Form the handle with a piece of +bamboo cane 23 inches long, and covered with straws; work over it in +long stitches of brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of the +basket; then sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, which +forms the two parts. Trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats, +ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon. + + * * * * * + +274 _and_ 275.--_Two Crochet Borders_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton Nos. 30 and 80. + +No. 274.--Crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border (No. 30 +and No. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of stitches of the +length required. + +[Illustration: 274.--Crochet Border.] + +1st row: 1 double in each stitch of the chain. + +2nd row: Turn and work on the opposite side of the chain, * 1 double, 11 +chain, miss 7. Repeat from *. 3rd row: * 1 double on the 1st loop of +chain, 2 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are under +the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain. +Repeat from *. + +4th row: * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of chain, 3 chain, 1 +treble in the 1st, but before you complete the treble stitch make 1 +chain. Repeat from *. This row completes the upper half of the border. +The lower half is worked over the 1st row of plain double crochet. + +5th row: 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15 chain, miss 9, 1 +double, come back over the loop of chain and work 1 double in each +stitch, come back again and work 6 small points, each made thus: 5 +chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each of the 3 others, 1 +double over the round scallop. When you have worked the 6 small points +repeat from *, but always join the 1st point of one scallop to the last +point of the next scallop. The pattern inside the scallops is worked in +2 rows with fine cotton. (See illustration.) + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.] + +No. 275.--The border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled up with +lace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl (_i.e._, 5 chain +and 1 slip stitch in the 1st). When the chain is long enough, turn and +work the 1st row: Alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch +between the 2 purl. + +2nd row: Turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of 7 chain, 1 +chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre of next loop, and so on. + +The 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side of the +chain with purl. * In each of the 8 first stitches work 1 double, make +12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked, and work 1 double +in the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and work 7 small points +over it. For each point make 3 chain, work 1 double in the 2nd, 1 treble +in the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double upon the loop of chain. Repeat from +* 6 times more. + +In the following scallops always fasten the first point of one scallop +to the last point of the preceding scallop. When this row is completed +fill up the inner part of each scallop with a network of fine thread, +joining the threads at all the places where they cross each other by 2 +or 3 stitches with a sewing needle. + +[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.] + + * * * * * + +276.--_Crochet Antimacassar_. + +Materials: 18 reels of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton +No. 10. + +[Illustration: 276.--Crochet Antimacassar.] + +This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square one, and +is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a chain of 4 +stitches, and unite it. + +1st round: Work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain stitch, work +another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, repeat. + +2nd round: 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain stitches, miss 1 +loop, and repeat. + +3rd round: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, make 7 +chain, and repeat. + +4th round: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 2 +more double crochet, and repeat. + +5th round: 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in last round, make +9 chain, and repeat. 6th round: Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, * +make 4 chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5 +chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make 1 +chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round. 7th round: 1 +long stitch into the loop formed with the 5 chain, make 12 chain, and +repeat. 8th round: Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into successive +loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next +loops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double crochet, 5 long +stitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, work 2 +double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double +crochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain, and repeat. This +completes the circle. 120 circles sewn together like the engraving will +make a good-sized couvrette, 12 in the length, and 10 in the width. If a +round couvrette is wished, work 1 circle for the centre larger than the +others; this can be done by repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then sew 8 +circles round the centre one, and increase the number of circles in each +row till you have made it the size you wish. For the square one, tassels +are required for the end and sides; these are made by winding the cotton +over a cardboard 4 inches deep about 80 times, then twist 8 threads of +the cotton into a cord, cut the cotton wound on the cardboard at one +end, make 2 inches of the cord into a loop and tie it firmly with the +middle of the tassel, then turn it, tie a thread tightly round, about an +inch below the cord, and net over the head; 40 of these tassels will be +sufficient. + + * * * * * + +277.--_Crochet Insertion_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40. + +[Illustration: 277.--Crochet Insertion.] + +The patterns of this insertion are worked in a row, and always two +opposite circles at a time. Make a foundation chain of 16 stitches, join +them into a circle, then work a 2nd circle consisting again of 16 chain +stitches. Work round this circle 24 double stitches, and 24 double round +the 1st circle; after the last stitch begin again at the 2nd circle, and +work 10 chain scallops as follows:--3 double in the next 3 stitches, * 5 +chain, 2 double in the next 2 stitches, repeat 8 times more, 3 double in +the last 3 stitches; work in the same manner round the other circle. To +get to the next pattern, work 4 slip stitches between the 2 circles in +the middle of the just-completed pattern, leaving the cotton under the +work and drawing it through the stitch upwards through the loop on the +needle; 7 chain stitches, and then 2 circles like those just described, +and so on. + + * * * * * + +278 _and_ 279.--_Tobacco Pouch in Crochet Work_. + +Materials: Black purse silk; crimson ditto; gold thread. + +The pouch is begun at the bottom, in the centre of the star. + +With crimson silk make a chain of 3 stitches, and join it into a +circle. Work 4 rounds of double crochet, 2 stitches in each stitch. + +5th round: 2 crimson stitches, 1 gold stitch, and so on. + +6th round: All gold stitches. + +7th round: 2 crimson stitches, 2 gold, and so on. + +8th round: All crimson stitches. + +9th round: 3 crimson stitches, 2 gold, &c. + +10th round: Similar to the preceding. + +[Illustration: 278.--Star for Tobacco Pouch, No. 279.] + +11th round: 4 gold stitches, 3 crimson, &c. + +12th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches over the 2 centre gold +stitches of preceding round, &c. + +13th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c. + +14th round: 1 gold stitch, 6 black stitches, &c. + +15th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c. + +16th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches, &c. + +17th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 over the black stitches of preceding +round, and 1 on either side, 4 crimson stitches, &c. + +18th round: 2 gold stitches over the centre ones of preceding round, 7 +crimson stitches, &c. + +Now work 4 plain crimson rounds, and begin the pattern from No. 279. The +centre is crimson, and the pattern is black and gold. The border round +the top is of the same colours. + +[Illustration: 279.--Tobacco Pouch.] + +Complete the work by 2 rounds of open treble crochet, and 1 round of +gold scallops. + +In the open rounds pass a double cord of black silk, finished off with +small balls of black silk gimp and gold; and on either side of the pouch +fasten one of these same balls with two tassels, one crimson and one +black. The pouch is lined with white kid. + + * * * * * + +280 _and_ 281.--_Crochet Rosettes_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 4, 24, or +40. + +These rosettes are suitable for trimming cuffs, collars, and bodices, or +for making couvrettes, according to the size of the cotton with which +they are worked. + +[Illustration: 280.--Crochet Rosette.] + +280.--Make a foundation chain of 22 chain; join them into a circle and +work the 1st round; 44 double. + +2nd round: * 7 chain, missing 3 stitches of the preceding round under +them, 1 double; repeat 10 times more from *. + +3rd round: 1 slip stitch in the first 4 stitches of the next scallop, * +5 chain, miss the last and work back on the other 4, 1 double, 1 treble, +1 long treble, 1 double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the +needle), 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next scallop; repeat +10 times more from *. Work a wheel in the centre of the rosette, which +is ornamented with a circle of chain stitch, as can be seen in +illustration; take up one thread of the wheel with every other chain +stitch. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 281.--Crochet Rosette.] + +281.--Begin the rosette with a leaf-like pattern in the centre, and work +the 1st row: * 11 chain, miss the last, work back over the following 8 +stitches, 1 double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, 1 double long treble, 2 +long treble, 1 treble, 1 double in the upper part of the chain stitch +before the last, 1 slip stitch in the lower part of the same stitch. The +first leaf of the middle pattern is then completed; repeat 6 times more +from *. Join the first and last leaves together by working 1 slip stitch +in the 1st of the 11 chain stitch. 2nd round: (Fasten on the cotton +afresh), 1 slip stitch in the point of each leaf, 12 chain between. 3rd +round: 24 double in each scallop. The rosette is then completed. + + * * * * * + +282.--_Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in Appliqué, +and Velvet Ribbon_. + +[Illustration: 282.--Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked +in Appliqué and Velvet Ribbon.] + +This trimming consists of 2 strips of crochet insertion, ornamented with +embroidery patterns worked in appliqué, and velvet ribbon drawn through. +They are worked the long way with fine crochet cotton. Begin on a +sufficiently long foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by +20, and work the 1st row: 1 chain, * 5 double, on the first 5 stitches +of the foundation, 1 leaf, as follows:--10 chain, without reckoning the +loop left on the needle, 1 extra long treble (for which the cotton is +wound 5 times round the needle) in the second of the 10 chain, a similar +treble in the first, then cast off the 2 treble stitches together, wind +the cotton once round the needle, and cast off the last loop with the +loop left on the needle. Miss under the leaf 15 stitches of the +foundation, and repeat from *. + +2nd row: 5 double on the 5 double of the preceding row, inserting the +needle in the whole stitches, 15 chain stitches between. + +3rd row: * 5 double in the first 5 double of the preceding row, 7 chain, +1 slip stitch in every other stitch of the next scallop of the preceding +row, 7 chain between, 7 chain stitches; repeat from *. + +4th row: * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of the preceding row, +3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of each of the 8 scallops, +consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row, 3 chain between, 3 chain; +repeat from *. These 2 last rows (the third and fourth) are repeated on +the other side of the foundation chain. + +When the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together so that +2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the embroidery patterns +and velvet ribbon. + + * * * * * + +283.--_Crochet Insertion_. + +This pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers or +pillow-cases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. If the +insertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower border +on which the button-holes are made. Begin the insertion in the middle of +one of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain of 9 stitches; +join them into a circle by making 1 slip stitch, and crochet thus:--* +10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4 +chain, 1 slip stitch in the circle, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4 +slip stitches in the next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5 +double divided by 5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten the +thread after having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slip +stitch to the 1st double stitch of this round. This completes the +star-like figure. Work on one side of these figures the following +rows:-- + +1st row: * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four placed together, 3 +chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the last of +the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st scallop of the following 4 +placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1 +treble in the 3rd scallop, 3 chain. Repeat from *. + +2nd row: 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, * miss 3 +stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch. Repeat from *. + +3rd row: * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on the next 3 +stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from *. + +4th row: 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding row, * 4 chain, 1 +slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3 double on the next 3 +stitches of the preceding row. Repeat from *. After having worked these +four rows likewise on the other side of the star figures, work over the +last the following 5 rows for the button-holes:-- + +1st row: 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double in the next +purl. Repeat from *. + +2nd row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row. + +3rd row: Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which miss 7 stitches. +4th row: Like the 2nd row. + +5th row; * 3 double on the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl (4 +chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double stitch). Repeat from *. + +[Illustration: 283.--Crochet Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +284.--_Crochet Insertion_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30. + +This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton on a +double foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl stitches +as follows:--1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1 purl, consisting +of 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1 double in the next +stitch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work centre consists of 6 rows of +scallops; the 1st of these rows is worked on the other side of the +foundation chain; 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop, 5 +chain between, then 1 row of slip stitches, and finally a row of purl +stitches like the 1st row of the insertion. For the raised flowers, +which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make a +foundation chain of 10 stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from +illustration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the +1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of +the 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1 +long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then 1 +slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches under them, +1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. Each following row consists +of 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop of the preceding row, +9 chain between. Then work the 1st row of the border on the other side +of the insertion; 1 double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, +inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times +more from *, and the flower is completed. + +[Illustration: 284.--Crochet Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +285.--_Crochet Garter_. + +Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round white +elastic cord; a pearl button. + +This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord; +the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread. + +[Illustration: 285.--Crochet Garter.] + +Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool; take the +elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work over +it. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completed +in the course of the two first rounds; the button-hole is made at the +beginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 stitches, and, when you +come to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain. +Increase the number of stitches at either end of the garter, to round it +off. When the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then +a plain red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately +1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first, missing +1 stitch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl button to correspond with the +button-hole. The garter would be both more elegant and more elastic if +worked entirely in silk. + + * * * * * + +286.--_Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton, and a needle +to match. + +This pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of old +guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and sleeves, +and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size. Both strips of +rosettes join at that place, and one is continued for the part round the +bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the pattern there are 42 rosettes +round the bosom, and 14 round each sleeve. These rosettes are fastened +one to another in the course of the work. They are made in the following +manner:--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and join it into a ring. 1st round: +8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain, which forms a purl (the 3 first +chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5 +chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the +ring. Repeat 6 times from *. Instead of the last treble, work a slip +stitch to fasten the end of the round to the 3 chain of the beginning, +which thus form 1 treble. 2nd round: 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned +as 1 treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain. +Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the beginning. 3rd +round: On each scallop of preceding round work 2 double, 1 purl, 2 +double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This completes the rosette. +Each rosette is fastened to the last by joining the 2 middle purl of +both. In the illustration, which is full-size, the purl that are to be +joined to those of another rosette are marked by a cross. The joining +between the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same +manner. The space left between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star +formed of chain stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk. +For this star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms the +centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8 purl +that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch. Repeat 7 +times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them together 3 of +these stars are required for each shoulder. + +[Illustration: 286.--Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise.] + +For the Border.--It is worked at the same time both round the bosom and +sleeves. 1st round: * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st scallop of +the rosette, which we will call the _first rosette_; 5 chain, +1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd scallop of the same rosette, +4 chain; then work the kind of cross which comes between each rosette +(see illustration). To make this cross throw the cotton 3 times round +the needle, work 1 double treble in the last purl left free of the 1st +rosette, keep the last loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round +it, and work a double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd +rosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the +loop left on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last +double treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * at +each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1 slip +stitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come to the next +space, where a cross is to be made. 2nd round: Work alternately 1 +treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over +the 6 chain. The two rounds just explained are also worked round the +upper edge, and finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1 +double in one of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the +2nd of the 6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next +but one of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, +1 chain, 1 double in the next space. Repeat from *. On the upper edge of +the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1 round of +crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the needle, so that +the treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain between each cross. + + * * * * * + + + + +KNITTING. + + + +287.--KNITTING, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is by no +means so ancient as lacemaking. Knitting has never entirely quitted the +hands of English and German ladies; indeed, among all good housewives of +any civilised country, it is reckoned an indispensable accomplishment. +Knitting schools have been established of late years both in Ireland and +Scotland, and Her Majesty the Queen has herself set an example of this +industry, as well as largely patronised the industrial knitters of +Scotland. Of the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at present +ignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the following +instructions are offered. + +To knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread, cotton, +silk, or wool are required. + +Knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the size to be +used depends entirely upon the material employed, whether thread, +cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting. As the size of the +needles depends upon that of the cotton, a knitting gauge is used (see +No. 287). The gauge (page 290) is the exact size of Messrs. H. Walker +and Co.'s knitting gauge. Our readers will remark that English and +foreign gauges differ very essentially; the finest size of German +needles, for example, is No. 1, which is the size of the coarsest +English wooden or ivory needle. Straight knitting is usually done with +two needles only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &c., three, +four, and five needles are employed. + +[Illustration: 287.--Knitting Gauge.] + + * * * * * + +288.--_Casting On_. + +This term is used for placing the first row or round of knitting +stitches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two ways--by +"knitting on" the stitches, or as follows:-- + +Hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left hand, +throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a loop, and pass +the needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly round the needle, pass +it through the loop, and draw up the thread; this forms the first stitch +(see No. 288). + +[Illustration: 288.--Casting On.] + + +289.--_To Knit On_. + +[Illustration: 289.--Knitting On.] + +Take the needle on which the stitches are cast in the left hand, and +another needle in the right hand--observe the position of the hands (No. +289). Hold the left-hand needle between the thumb and third finger, +leaving the first finger free to move the points of the needles. (The +wonderful sense of touch in the first or index finger is so delicate, +that an experienced knitter can work without ever looking at her +fingers, by the help of this touch only--in fact, knitting becomes a +purely mechanical labour, and as such is most useful.) Insert the point +of the right-hand needle in the loop or stitch formed on the left-hand +needle, bring the thread once round, turning the point of the needle in +front under the stitch, bringing up the thread thrown over, which in +its turn becomes a stitch, and is placed on the left-hand needle. + + +290.--_Simple Knitting (plain)_. + +[Illustration: 290.--Plain Knitting.] + +Pass the right-hand needle into the 1st stitch of the left-hand needle, +at the back throw the thread forward, and with the first finger pass the +point of the needle under the stitch in forming a fresh stitch with the +thread already thrown over, as in "knitting on," only, instead of +placing the newly-formed stitch on the left-hand needle, leave it on the +right-hand needle, and let the stitch drop off the point of the +left-hand needle. Continue thus until all the stitches are taken from +the left to the right-hand needle, and the row is then complete. + + +291.--_To Purl, Pearl, or Seam_. + +Seaming or purling a stitch is done by taking up the stitch _in front_ +instead of at the back, throwing the thread over and knitting the stitch +as in plain knitting; but before beginning to purl, the thread must be +brought in front of the needle, and if a plain stitch follows, the +thread is passed back after the purl stitch is made (see No. 291). +[Illustration: 291.--Purling.] + + +292.--_To Increase_. + +Increasing or making a stitch is done by throwing the thread once round +the needle and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch. + +[Illustration: 292.--Increasing.] + + +293.--_To Decrease_. + +This is done in two ways: _firstly_, taking up two stitches and knitting +them together as one; _secondly_, by taking up a stitch without knitting +it, called slipping, then by knitting the following stitch in the usual +way, and then slipping the 1st (unknitted) over the 2nd (knitted) (see +No. 293). When it is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed +thus:--Slip one, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknitted +stitch over the two knitted together. + +[Illustration: 293.--Decreasing.] + + +294.--_Round Knitting_. + +To knit a round four or five needles are used; it is thus that +stockings, socks, cuffs, mittens, &c., are made. To knit with four +needles, cast on, say, 32 stitches upon one needle, insert a second +needle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on 30 stitches; proceed +in a similar way with a third needle, but casting on 28 only; when this +is done, knit the two extra stitches on the first needle on to the last; +this makes 30 stitches upon each needle, and completes the round. + + +295.--_Casting Off_. + +Knit two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slip the first stitch +over the second; continue this to the end of the row. _Note_.--The last +knitted row, before casting off, should be knitted loosely. + + +296.--_To Pick up a Stitch_. + +This is done by taking up the thread between two stitches and forming a +stitch with it. + + * * * * * + +The following Designs of New Stitches can be used for a variety of +work:-- + +297.--_Peacock's Tail Pattern_. + +Needles, wood or ivory; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton. + +[Illustration: 297.--Peacock's Tail Pattern.] + +Cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, as it takes nine +stitches for each pattern, and two for each border; the border, which +is in plain knitting, will not be mentioned after the first row. + +1_st Row_.--2 plain for border; 2 plain *, make 1, 1 plain, repeat this +four times from *, make 1, 2 plain; repeat from the beginning--then 2 +plain for border. + +2_nd Row_.--2 purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat. + +[Illustration: 298.--Spiral Stitch.] + +3_rd Row_.--Take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 together; repeat. + +4_th Row_.--Purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 together; repeat. + +5_th Row_.--Take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2 together. + +Begin from the 1st row. + +Thirteen stitches are large enough for a stripe for a sofa-cover. These +stripes should be sewn together after all are finished. + + * * * * * + +298.--_Spiral Stitch_. + +Materials: Needles, thick steel or bone; double wool. + +This stitch is far more effective worked in thick wool than in cotton. +It is done in stripes alternately wide and narrow. For wide stripes cast +on twenty-one stitches, for narrow fifteen; this without counting the +first and last stitch, the first being slipped, the last always plainly +knitted. + +1_st Row_.--Purl 3 together to end of row. + +2_nd Row_.--Make 1, * 1 plain, make 2, repeat from * end by making the +last stitch before the plain knitted one at end of row. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration 299.--Knotted Stitch.] + +299.--_Knotted Stitch_. + +Materials: Needles, wood or ivory; double wool. + +Cast on 11 stitches. + +1_st Row_.--All plain, throwing the wool twice round the needle before +each stitch. + +2_nd Row_.--Each stitch on the needle is now composed of 3 threads of +wool: knit the first plain, the second purl, the third plain; cast off +the second over the third, and the first over the second; this leaves +but one stitch; repeat from first row until a sufficient length is +obtained. This pattern makes very pretty borders. + + * * * * * + +300.--_Knitted Moss Borders_. + +Materials: Steel needles; moss wool of several shades of green. + +Cast on enough stitches for double the width required, say twenty, and +knit very tightly in plain knitting, row by row, until a sufficient +length has been obtained. Cut off and place the strip on a sieve over a +basin of boiling water, and cover it over. When it has absorbed the +steam, and while wet, iron it with a box-iron. Then cut the strip down +the centre, and unravel the wool on each side. The threads of wool all +curling, resemble moss. They are held firmly by the selvedge of the +knitting. + + * * * * * + +301.--_German Brioche Stitch_ + +Materials: Wood or ivory needles; wool. + +Cast on an even number of stitches. + +All the rows are knitted as follows:--Slip 1, taken as for purling, +make 1, take 2 together. In the following rows the made stitch must +always be slipped, the decreased stitch and the slipped stitch of the +previous row knitted together. + +[Illustration: 301.--German Brioche Stitch.] + +Ordinary Brioche Stitch is made by casting on an even number of +stitches, and working the rows as follows:-- + +Make 1, slip 1, take 2 together; repeat. _Note_.--The made stitch and +the slipped stitch of the previous row must always be knitted together, +and the decreased stitch of that row slipped. + + * * * * * + + + + +NETTING. + +302.--NETTING is one of the prettiest and one of the easiest +accomplishments of a lady. The materials are simple, while the effects +produced by good netting are most elegant and of great durability. One +great advantage of netting is that each stitch is finished and +independent of the next, so that if an accident happens to one stitch it +does not, as in crochet or knitting, spoil the whole work. + +Netting, so easy to do, is most difficult to describe. The materials +required are--a netting-needle and mesh (see illustration No. 302). +These are made of bone, of wood, of ivory, and most commonly of steel. +The wood, bone, and ivory are only used for netting wool, the steel for +silk, cotton, &c. + +The needle is filled by passing the end of the thread through the little +hole at the left-hand point, and tying it; then the thread is wound on +the needle as on a tatting shuttle. The needles are numbered from 12 to +24; these last are extremely fine. The meshes correspond to the sizes of +the needles, and are made of the same materials. The larger the size of +the stitch required the thicker the mesh must be selected; indeed, large +hat meshes are often used for some patterns. A stirrup to slip over the +foot to which the foundation is attached is required by those who do +not use a netting cushion, placed before them on the table and heavily +weighted; to this the foundation is fastened. + +The stirrup is made of a loop of ribbon, to which the foundation is +tied. Some ladies work a pretty stirrup of the exact shape of a +horseman's stirrup; a loop of ribbon is passed through this, and the +foundation fixed as before. + +[Illustration 302.--Needle and Mesh.] + +303.--_To Net_. + +Place the mesh under the thread, between the thumb and finger of the +left hand; it must rest on the middle of the finger and be held only by +the thumb (see illustration No. 303). Take the needle in the right hand, +pass the thread over the middle and ring finger and over the mesh, pass +the needle upwards and behind the mesh in the large loop which forms the +thread round the fingers, and at the same time through the first stitch +or loop of the foundation. Draw the needle out, retaining the loops on +the fingers and dropping them off, the little finger being the last to +release the thread. As the thread tightens and the knot is firm, the +loop on the little finger should be drawn up quickly and smartly. The +next stitches are precisely similar, and row upon row is formed in the +same manner. Having learnt the stitch, the next task is to make a +foundation. Tie a large loop of strong thread on the stirrup ribbon, and +net fifty stitches into this loop, then net four or five rows, and the +foundation is ready. + +[Illustration: 303.--Netting.] + +Simple netting as above explained forms diamonds or lozenges. When a +piece of netting is finished it is cut off the foundation, and the +little ends of thread that held the stitches are drawn out. + +304.--_Square Netting_. + +Is done precisely in the same manner as plain netting, only begin from +one stitch, then net two stitches into this first, and increase by +making two in the last loop of every row. As soon as the right number of +stitches is complete diminish exactly in the same way by netting two +stitches as one at the end of each row until one stitch alone remains. +These squares are used for guipure d'art and for darning on. + +305.--_Round Netting_ + +Is nearly similar to plain netting. A little difference exists in the +way of passing the needle through the stitch; this is shown in No. 305. +After having passed the needle through the stitch it is drawn out and +passed from above into the loop just made. This stitch is very effective +for purses. + +[Illustration: 305.--Round Netting.] + +306.--_Diamond Netting_ + +Is often called "pointed netting," and is made by netting from one +stitch, increasing one stitch at the end of each row, and decreasing in +the same way, as described at page 303. + +307.--_To Net Rounds_. + +To form a circle, as for a purse, the needle must pass through the first +stitch, keeping the last three or four on the mesh and removing this +when required by the work. + +308.--_"English" Netting_ + +Is made as follows:--Net a row of plain netting, begin the second row by +netting the second stitch, then net the first; repeat, always passing by +one stitch and taking it up. + +_3rd Row_.--Plain. + +_4th Row_.--Begin by a plain stitch, then continue as in the 2nd row. + +_5th Row_.--Plain. + +[Illustration: 308.--"English" Netting.] + +309.--_Lace Edging_. + +Begin by one stitch and net two in one at the end of each row until as +many stitches are required for the narrowest part of the edge. * +Increase one then in the two loops until the point of the edge or +scallop is reached; at the next row leave the squares which form the +point, and begin from *. + +310.--_Open Lace_. + +This kind of edging is made with two meshes of different sizes and +extremely fine crochet cotton. + +Tie the thread to the foundation, net 3 rows with the small mesh of the +required length. + +_4th Row_.--On the large mesh, one stitch in each stitch. + +_5th Row_.--On the small mesh take 3 stitches together to form 1 loop; +repeat to end of row. + +_6th Row_.--On the large mesh make 5 loops in each stitch; repeat to end +of row. + +[Illustration: 310.--Open Lace.] + +_7th Row_.--On the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4 first stitches, +pass over the 5th, repeat to end. + +_8th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first +stitches, pass over the 4th; repeat. + +_9th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first +stitches, pass over the 3rd; repeat. + +This lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim opera-caps, +children's hoods, &c. + +311.--_Shell Border_. + +This border is intended as an edging for square netting for +couvrettes, d'oyleys, &c. The mesh must be three times as +long as that employed for the square netting. + +Make 12 stitches in the first stitch of the edge, pass over 8, +make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. Then take the mesh used +for the square netting, and net one stitch in each stitch, take +a still smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row of +one stitch in each stitch. + +This border forms a very appropriate edging for all articles +in square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for trimming guipure +d'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging the +work; two sets of shells must be worked at the corners when +a little fulness is required. + +[Illustration: 311.--Shell Border.] + + * * * * * + + +KNITTING AND NETTING +PATTERNS + + +312.--_Knitted Sock for a Child._ + +Materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single Berlin wool; 1 yard of narrow +pink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins. + +This sock fits well, and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two pins, +backwards and forwards. Cast on 22 stitches and knit 22 rows, but +increase once at the end of every other row on the right side of the +work, so that there are 33 stitches in the 22nd row. Now cast off 28 +stitches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every other +row. Now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other +row; this forms the toe. Cast on 28 stitches on the same needle, and +knit 22 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row, and +cast off. Pick up the 68 stitches on the upper part of shoe, and knit 20 +rows, alternately 2 plain and 2 purl rows, decreasing 1 stitch on each +side of the 12 stitches in every other row, which forms the toe and +front of sock. Knit 14 rows of 2 plain, 2 purl stitches alternately, +then 3 open rows with 1 plain row between. The open rows are worked as +follows:--* Purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1 +open row, 1 plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewn together down the +back of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to form +the toe. + +[Illustration: 312.--Knitted Sock.] + + * * * * * + +313.--_Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers, +Couvrettes, Antimacassars, &c._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton; 5 steel +knitting-needles of a corresponding size. + +[Illustration: 313.--Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette +Covers, &c.] + +According to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful square +makes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes, &c. &c. If +worked with Evans's cotton No. 10, it will be suitable for the +first-mentioned purpose. Begin the square in the centre, cast on 8 +stitches, 2 on each needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the +1st round. 2nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1; repeat +3 times more from *. + +3rd round: Plain knitting. This knitted round is repeated after every +pattern round. We shall not mention this again, nor the repetition from +*. + +4th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton +forward, knit 1. + +6th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton +forward, knit 1. + +8th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton +forward, knit 1. + +The 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in every +other round the number of stitches between the 2 stitches formed by +throwing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in the 18th round 15 +stitches are knitted between. + +20th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton +forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted +stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit +1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +22nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton +forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw +the cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the +knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the +cotton forward, knit 1. + +24th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton +forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw +the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted +stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, draw the +slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw +the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, +knit 1. + +26th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the +cotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over +the last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, draw the +first over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, three times +alternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton +forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +28th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, four times +alternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped +over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit +1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; knit 1, knit 2 together, +knit 1, four times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, +knit 1. + +30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, six times +alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped +over the knitted stitch, knit 1 six times alternately, knit 2 together, +throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +32nd round: Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 6 times +alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped +over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches +together, 6 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +34th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times +alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped +over the knitted stitch, knit 1, 7 times alternately knit 2 together, +throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +36th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times +alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped +over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 stitches +together, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +38th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times +alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the, slipped +over the knitted stitch, 8 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the +cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +40th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times +alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped +over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches +together as 1 stitch, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit +2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, +knit 1. You now have 41 stitches on each needle; knit 1 round, and cast +off. When completed, the squares are joined together on the wrong side. + + * * * * * + +314.--_Knitted Sleeping Sock._ + +Materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces light +blue fleecy. + +[Illustration: 314.--Knitted Sleeping Sock.] + +These socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond pattern, +and in rounds like a stocking. Begin at the upper part of the sock; cast +on 103 stitches with blue wool on pretty thick steel knitting-needles, +and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as follows:-- + +1st round: Quite plain. + +2nd round: Purled; both these rounds are worked with blue wool. + +3rd to 6th rounds: Knitted plain with white wool. + +7th round: With blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through the next stitch +of the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out as a loop, keep it +on the needle, knit again 3 stitches, and so on. 8th round: With blue +wool; the loop which has been taken up on the preceding round is purled +off together with the preceding stitch. Repeat the 3rd and 8th rounds +twice more; the loop of one round must be placed between those of the +preceding one. Then knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2 +stitches knitted, 2 stitches purled, then work the foot in the diamond +pattern in the same way as usual for a stocking. The heel is formed by +leaving 23 stitches on each side the seam stitch, and knitted backwards +and forwards in the diamond pattern. At the toe decrease so that the +decreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. This is obtained by +knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches of the 1st needle together; on the 2nd +needle slip the 4th stitch before the last, knit the next stitch and +draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one; decrease in the same +manner on the other 2 needles of this round. Repeat these decreasings +exactly in the same direction and at the same places, so that there are +always 4 stitches between the 2 decreasings at the end and at the +beginning of 2 needles; they always take place after 3 or 2 plain +rounds, and at last after 1 plain round. The remaining stitches are +knitted off 2 and 2 together. To complete the sock, the outline of the +sole is marked by working slip stitches with blue wool in crochet all +round it; work also slip stitches on the selvedge stitch of the heel. +The stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops in +blue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide. + + * * * * * + +_315 and 316.--Netted Fichu or Cape._ + +Material: Fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle and +meshes. + +This fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk used three +or four times double. It may be worn as an evening wrap, either over a +cap or on the hair, or as a necktie. The ground in our pattern is white, +the border blue. The illustration of the ground and of the border, in +full size, will serve as a guide for the size of the meshes to be used. +For the ground cast on the first mesh, with white silk, 56 stitches; +work 2 rows on the 56 stitches. From the 3rd row, always miss the last +stitch, so that each row is decreased 1 stitch. Continue in this manner +till the 39th row, when there will be but 19 stitches left. From the +40th row, miss 2 stitches at the end of each row. The ground is +completed with the 46th row. The 1st row of the work is the _cross-way +side_; the last, the _point at the bottom_; fasten on the blue silk to +the 1st stitch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row round the +ground of the fichu, not forgetting that the stitch on the outer edge at +the sides must always be taken, and 2 stitches made in the 5th, 10th, +14th, [Illustration: 315.--Netted Fichu, or Cape, for Evening Dress.] +18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th stitches at the sides, as well as in each of +the 2 middle stitches of the last row; in each of the other stitches 1 +stitch should be made. On the corners of the sides increase _once_, on +the cross-way side, seven times in all. This forms the 1st round of the +edging or lace. + +[Illustration: 316.--Showing the Netting full size for Border of Fichu.] + +2nd round of the lace: In each stitch make 2 stitches--still on the +larger mesh. 3rd round: Always miss the small flat scallop formed in +last row, and work 2 stitches in the stitch which forms a tight loop. +Keep thus the same number of stitches, with which work 6 more rounds. +For the last round, work 1 stitch in each _tight_ loop. + + * * * * * + +_317.--Lady's Knitted Purse._ + +Materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet ditto; +black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a tassel of black beads; 5 +steel knitting-needles. + +[Illustration: 317.--Lady's Knitted Purse.] + +This purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and ornamented +with black beads and a black bead tassel. Begin the purse with the black +silk in the centre of the bottom part, and cast on for one part of it 7 +stitches. Knit 14 rows on these backwards and forwards, in such a manner +that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other. The 1st +stitch of every row is slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * On +that side where hangs the thread with which you work take the back chain +of the 7 selvedge stitches of the part you have just knitted on a +separate needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the +1st row of which is knitted. Repeat 10 times more from *. The stitches +of several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to be +hindered in working by too many needles. When the 12th part is +completed, take the selvedge stitches on the left hand on another +needle, cast them off together with the cast on stitches of the 1st +part, and fasten the silk thread. Then take the 7 right-hand selvedge +stitches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk on which the +beads have been strung and work 15 rows on these stitches, the 1st row +from the wrong side, and therefore purled; in the 1st, as well as in all +the other purled rows, the last stitch must be purled together with the +next stitch of the next black part. In the purled rows, moreover, +excepting in the first and last one, a bead must be worked in after +casting off the 2nd, 4th, and 6th stitches. The stitch must be worked by +inserting the needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk +which has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch so +that it is on the right side of the work. In the following knitted row, +the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the bead stitch. +When 12 such red parts have been completed, work again 12 black parts on +the selvedge stitch of the same, in which the beads are not knitted in, +but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is completed. Then work 3 times +more alternately 12 red and 12 black parts; when the last 12 black parts +have been completed cast off the stitches of the last black part +together with the selvedge stitches, the 1st on the wrong side; the +stitches of the 6th part are cast off in the same manner together with +the selvedge stitches of the 7th. The red parts which remain to be +worked on the black part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, +and the 7th, 8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. Then +gather all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the 10 parts on 2 +needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the stitches and +selvedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed on +the sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk, first on +the stitches of the one needle, and then on those of the other:--1 row +knitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch; then work 3 rows +backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches, which must be +knitted on the right side; then work 8 rows more in the same manner, +casting off the 2 first stitches of the 8 rows. Then cast off all the +remaining stitches, sew the beads on the black parts from illustration; +also the clasp and bead tassel. + + * * * * * + +318 to 320.--_Knitted Antimacassar or Berceaunelle Cover._ + +Materials: Grey and violot fleecy wool. + +[Illustration: 318.--Square for Antimacassar.] + +This antimacassar, part of which is seen on No. 320, smaller than full +size, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are knitted +separately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine knitting-needles. +In the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted circle of grey wool. The +edge of the antimacassar is ornamented with a grey woollen fringe. For +each rosette cast on 6 stitches with violet wool, and knit 12 rows +backwards and forwards in such a manner that the work is knitted on one +side and purled on the other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, the +first stitch of every row is slipped; * then take the first five +selvedge stitches of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the side +where the end of wool hangs down, leaving it unnoticed for the present), +inserting the needle into the back chain of the stitch (the selvedge +stitch which is next to the cast-on stitch remains, therefore, unworked +upon), and knit on these a new part, which must have 13 rows; the first +row is knitted, and in this row work 2 stitches in the first stitch, one +purled and one knitted, so that this new part is equally six stitches +wide. Repeat 8 times more from *. After having worked several parts, the +stitches can, of course, be taken on the same needle, so as not to +increase the number of needles. When the 10th part is com-* *pleted, +take the selvedge stitches of the left-hand side of the same on a +separate needle, cast them off with the cast-on stitches of the first +part, and fasten the wool. Then take the 6 selvedge stitches on the +right hand of one part on a separate needle; take the grey wool, and +work on these stitches 13 rows backwards and forwards; the first row is +knitted; it is worked on the right side of the work; in this, and in +every following _knitted_ row, knit the last stitch together with the +next stitch of the next violet part. When 10 such grey parts are +completed (each of the remaining 9 parts consists of 13 rows, and begins +with one knitted row), take all the stitches and the selvedge stitches +of these parts on four needles and knit with these stitches, also with +grey wool 1 row knitted, in which the 6 selvedge stitches must be +decreased to 3 by knitting always 2 stitches together as 1 stitch; each +of the other stitches is knitted as usual. Then purl 2 rows with violet +wool, and cast off. + +[Illustration: 319.--Rosette for Antimacassar.] + +[Illustration: 320.--Part of Antimacassar.] + +For the tatted circle in the centre of the rosette, work with grey wool +a circle consisting of 1 double, and 11 times alternately 1 purl 3-10ths +of an inch long, 2 double, then 1 purl and 1 double. The circle is sewn +on the rosette, from illustration, with grey wool. No. 319 shows such a +rosette full size. The small squares (_see_ No. 318) are worked with +grey wool; cast on 36 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and +purl 2 rows. To form the corners, knit together 4 times 2 stitches after +every 7 stitches in the first of these two rounds, in the second round +knit together 2 stitches after every 6 stitches; these decreasings and +those of the other rounds must always take place, at the same places as +in the preceding round. Then take the violet wool, and knit 7 rows; in +the first of these knit 4 times 2 stitches together after intervals of 5 +stitches; no decreasings take place in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows; in +the 3rd row knit together 4 times 3 stitches as 1 stitch, and in the 5th +and 7th rows 4 times 2 stitches as 1 stitch. After the 7th round, the +remaining stitches are cast off together as 1 stitch. Then fasten the +wool and cut it off. Lastly, sew the rosettes and squares together from +No. 320 for a cover, and edge it round the border with a fringe of grey +wool. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 321.--Knitted Border.] + +321.--_Knitted Border._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 10 or No. 50 knitting +cotton. + +If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for trimming +a quilt or berceaunette cover; if, on the contrary, fine cotton is used, +the pattern will form a very pretty collar for a little boy or girl. + +To make a collar, begin by a chain of 220 stitches, and work 6 rows +backwards and forwards alternately, knitting 4 stitches and purling 2. + +In the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows the 4 stitches are purled, and the 2 are +knitted. + +7th row: * Purl 2, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *. + +8th row: Alternately purl 5, knit 2. All the rows with _even_ numbers +are knitted like this, except that the number of the knitted stitches +are increased by 2 in each of them. We will not, therefore, henceforth +mention these rows. + +9th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from +*. + +11th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from +*. + +13th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from +*. The pattern is continued in the same manner. The small gores formed +between the ribs are increased by 2 stitches in every second row. Each +of these gores has 13 stitches in the 21st row, which is the last. Cast +off all the stitches after this row. + +Take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as that used for the +knitting work 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch of the +selvedge, then the 2 following rows for the edging. 1st row: Alternately +1 treble, 1 chain, under which miss 1. + +2nd row: Alternately 1 double over 1 treble of preceding row, 1 purl +(that is, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the first), under which miss 1. +Over the first row of the knitting work 1 row of close double crochet. +The border is now completed. + + * * * * * + +322.--_Knee-cap in Knitting._ + +Materials: For 1 pair, 4 oz. pink 4-thread fleecy wool, and a small +quantity of white ditto. + +Begin each knee-cap by casting on with pink wool 114 stitches, equally +divided upon 4 needles, and joining them into a circle. Upon this number +of stitches work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches. +In the 48th round begin the gore which covers the knee; it is worked +separately backward and forwards, always alternately knitting and +purling 2 stitches. + +[Illustration: 322.--Knee-cap in Knitting.] + +After 2 rows change the pattern, so as to form small squares Knit the +first row of this gore upon 26 stitches slipped off from the last row on +to a separate needle. At the end of each following row knit the nearest +stitch of the nearest needle, so as to increase 1 stitch in each row of +the gore. + +Continue in this way until only 42 stitches remain of the ribbed part. +After this work the remainder of the gore separately, decreasing once at +the beginning and end of each row till only 26 stitches remain; then +take up 23 stitches of the selvedge on each side of these 26 stitches, +and work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches. + +The edging at the top and bottom of the knee-cap is worked in crochet. +With white wool make a chain of 50 stitches; turn and work 1 row of +crochet _à tricoter_; then work a second row thus: the first part, as +usual, with white, but coming back, with pink make 4 chain between each +stitch, work in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain, +thus forming a small ruche, and sew it on to the edge of the knitting. + + * * * * * + +323.--_Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool._ + +Material: Black Shetland wool. + +This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern +(commencing at the corner). + +1st row: slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the +back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together. + +2nd row: Knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool +forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next +row the holes are alternated; the neckerchief must of course be +increased at the beginning and end of every other row. It measures at +the upper edge 1 yard 16 inches across from one corner to the other; the +lower corner is rounded off. The neckerchief is edged with a knitted +lace. + +[Illustration: 323.--Knitted Neckerchief in Shetland Wool.] + +The lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross way. Cast +on 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:--Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 +together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. + +2nd row: Slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the stitch formed in +the preceding row by throwing the wool forward. + +3rd row; Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the +wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, +knit 5. + +4th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed in +the preceding row by throwing the wool forward, purl 13. + +5th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the +wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, +throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4. + +6th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing +the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9. + +7th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the +wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2 together, knit 4. + +8th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing +the wool forward in the preceding row, purl 13. + +9th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times alternately; knit 2 +together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2. + +10th row: Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the +wool forward in preceding row, purl 5. + +11th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately knit 2 together, +throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. + +12th row: Slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool +forward in preceding row, purl 13. + +13th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, 5 +times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2. + +14th row: Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by +throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5. + +15th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 2 together, 4 +times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3. + +16th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by +throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13. + +17th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, 3 +times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4. + +18th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by +throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9. + +19th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit 2 together, twice +alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5. + +20th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by +throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13. + +21st row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit 2 together, +throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. + +22nd row: Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by +throwing the wool forward in preceding row. + +23rd row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit 2 together, +knit 7. + +24th row: Purled. Repeat from the 1st row till the lace is sufficiently +long. Then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace can be knitted +somewhat narrower for the upper edge. One of the ends of the neckerchief +is knotted, As seen in the illustration, and the other end is drawn +through the knot. + + * * * * * + +_324 and 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves._ + +Materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black silk +elastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons. + +This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple wool, so +that the raised ribs appear black on one side and purple on the other. +The bodice fits quite close. It is fastened in front with black bone +buttons and a steel buckle. Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at +the bottom. Begin at the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast +on 170 stitches. The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not +too loose. Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--Slip the 1st +stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were going +to purl it, and knit 1. In the next row knit together the stitch which +has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward, +slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool forward. In the +25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as before. + +[Illustration: 324.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Back).] + +[Illustration: 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Front).] + +Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with purple, but as +the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be alternately knitted +and purled. Work always 2 rows on the same side from right to left. The +following 26th row is worked with black wool in common brioche stitch, +only the slipped stitch of the preceding row is purled together with the +stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. 27th row: Turn the work, +with purple wool purled brioche stitch. 28th row: On the same side with +black wool knitted brioche stitch. After having worked 40 rows all in +the same manner, begin the front gore. Divide the stitches upon three +needles, 82 stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for +each front part on the two other needles. Then work the first 11 +stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that side of +the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted brioche stitch; +the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with the wool thrown +forward, therefore it is a purple rib. After this stitch begin the gore +with the following 13 stitches. The ribs are then worked so that a +purple one comes over a black one, and a black one over a purple one. Do +not work upon the following black stitch; knit the following stitch with +the one formed by throwing the wool forward. Throw the wool forward, and +then only slip the black stitch which had been left, so that it comes +behind the stitch which has just been knitted. This crossing of the +stitch is repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together +with the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool +forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single +black stitches. The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by throwing the +wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are then knitted +together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in opposite +directions. The three black stitches which are knitted off together as 1 +stitch in the next row form the middle line of the front gore, and are +continued in a straight line to the point of the gore. The crossing +takes place twice in this row, but now the black stitch is slipped +first. After the 24th stitch knit together the following stitch with the +stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. Then continue to work in +common brioche stitch to the other front part, where the gore begins +before the 24th stitch from the end. In the next row, which is worked in +purled brioche stitch with black wool, take up the black loop between +two purple ribs after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitch +which is missing at that place. The 3 slipped stitches in the preceding +row are purled together as one stitch with the stitch formed by throwing +the wool forward between the ribs. The loop is also taken up on the +other side of the front gore in the same manner, as well as on the other +front part. Then work 6 rows without increasing or decreasing. The +crossing of the stitch is repeated after every 7 rows, always on the +knitted brioche stitch side, with purple wool. In the 18th row of the +gore the 3 middle stitches are not knitted together, but separately, so +that the pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. In the back 30 stitches +only must be decreased, two in every 6th row. After the 60th row another +decreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for the +neck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch from the +front edge in every 3rd row. The 5 stitches which close to the neck are +cast off together with the 5 stitches on the shoulders. Then cast off +loosely the stitches of the back; take all the selvedge stitches of the +front on the needles, and knit 24 rows of brioche stitch with black +wool, making 9 button-holes on the right front part. On the wrong side +of this part sew on a strip of black silk, with slits worked round in +button-hole stitch, stitching at the same time into the knitting. The +following scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round the +armholes with black wool:--Take the selvedge stitches on the needles, +work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch purled, thread the +wool into a Berlin wool-work needle, * cast off 3 stitches together, +draw the wool through the needle, and take the 2 following stitches on +the wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from *. Sew on the buttons the +strips of silk elastic on either side of the black stripe at the bottom, +and fasten the ends of the latter with the steel buckle. + + +_326.--Baby's Boot._ + +Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin wool; +steel knitting-needles. + +This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a sock in +white wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the upper +scalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red wool, divide +them on four needles, and knit in rounds as follows:--1st and 2nd +rounds: With red wool, purled. + +3rd to 8th round: With white wool. + +3rd round: Knitted. + +4th round: * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1, throw the wool +forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times more from *. + +5th round: Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the wool forward are +knitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at the place where 3 +stitches were knitted together in the 4th round, so that the decreasing +of the preceding round forms the middle stitch of the 3 stitches to be +decreased in this round. + +6th and 7th rounds: Like the 5th. + +8th round: Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left. + +9th to 11th round: With red wool. 9th round: Knitted. + +10th and 11th rounds: Purled. + +12th to 30th round: With white wool. + +12th round: Knitted. + +13th round to 30th round: Alternately purl 1, knit 1, inserting the +needle in the back part of the stitch. + +31st to 33rd round: With red wool. + +31st round: Knitted. + +32nd round and 33rd round: Purled. + +34th and 35th rounds: With white wool. 34th round: Knitted. + +35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Each +stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch in +the next round. + +36th to 38th round: With red wool. + +36th round: Knitted. + +37th and 38th rounds: Purled. + +39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if +you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped +stitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped stitches. + +[Illustration 326.--Baby's Boot.] + +Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 stitches +untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool. 48th to 50th +row: With red wool. + +48th row: Knitted. + +49th row: Purled. + +50th row: Knitted. + +51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern described in the 39th +round. But as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit +and purl the stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end +of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th +row, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red +wool. + +86th row: Knitted. + +87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl +2, knit 1. + +Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th, +decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the whole number of +stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the gored part and dividing +them with the 30 other stitches on four needles. Knit once more in +rounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round +purled. In the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together in +the middle of the back part of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other +round decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9 +stitches between the two decreasings. The number of stitches between the +decreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form +slanting lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by +knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock part +is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red +stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4 +rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside; +then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-work +row in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels to +match. + + * * * * * + +327.--_Knitted Border for a Bedquilt_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 8 white knitting cotton; +thick steel pins. + +Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the border, +which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows: + +5th row: Alternately make 1, knit 2 together. + +Then 5 more plain rows. + +[Illustration 327.--Knitted Border for a Bedquilt.] + +Now begin the pattern:--1st row: * Make 1, knit 1 _slantways_ (to knit a +stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and from +right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4 times more +than from * to the end of the row. + +2nd row: Purled. + +3rd row: Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. +Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to the end of the row. + +4th row: The same as the second. + +The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our illustration. The +increasing caused by knitting the _made_ stitches is regularly repeated +in each second row, so that the stitches between the striped divisions +increase, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the other +hand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain +this result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows, +by purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so +that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In the +28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted slantways, so +that there will be only 6 stitches left for each division; these +stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. In the 31st +row they are knitted together, two and two. There remain in each +division three more stitches, which are knitted together in the 34th +row. Two rows entirely purled completethe upper edge of the border. + + * * * * * + +328.--_Knitted Quilt._ + +Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles. + +This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different colours, and in +that case each strip should contain 1 row of patterns; or the quilt may +be composed of wide strips with several rows of patterns, those of one +row being placed between those of the preceding. In the first case, that +is if you work narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide +strips are preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our pattern +was worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip is +knitted the short way. + +[Illustration: 318.--Knitted Quilt.] + +For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20 stitches. + +2nd row: Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make 1, purl 4. +Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2. + +3rd row: Slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled in the preceding +row, and purl all those that were made. + +4th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times +more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2. + +5th row: Slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest. + +6th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times +more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2. + +7th row: The same as the 5th. + +8th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and so on. + +9th row: The same as the 5th row. + +10th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over +the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from *. + +11th row: Knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest. + +12th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch +over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *. + +13th row: The same as the 11th. + +14th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch +over, purl 4, and repeat. + +15th row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat from * 3 times more; +knit 2 together, knit 2. + +The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are only 4 in +this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you purl 3 stitches +instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th made stitch, you purl 4 +more stitches. Repeat alternately these 2 rows of raised patterns, and +when you have a sufficient number of strips sew them together. Trim the +quilt all round with a knotted fringe. + + * * * * * + +329.--_Stitch in Knitting, for Couvrettes, Comforters, Opera Caps, +Carriage Shawls, Jackets, &c._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20, or +fine wool. + +Cast on an uneven number of stitches. + +1st row: Slip 1, * +make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. Repeat from *. + +2nd row: +Slip 1, * knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the row. +[Illustration: 329.--Stitch for Couvrettes, Comforters, &c.] + + * * * * * + +330 _and_ 331.--_Knitted Veil._ + +Material: Fine Shetland wool. + +[Illustration: 330.--Knitted Veil.] + +Illustration 330 represents a knitted veil in reduced size. The original +was worked with fine Shetland wool in an open pattern; it is edged with +a knitted lace. Its length is 24 inches, its width 18 inches. Work the +veil from a paper pattern of a shape corresponding to that of +illustration 330. Compare the paper shape often with the knitting in +the course of the work, and try to keep them alike. + +Knit the veil in the pattern of the original, or in the pattern of +illustration 331. For the former one begin at the lower edge of the +veil, cast on 45 stitches upon thick wooden needles, and work the 1st +row: * Knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, repeat +from *. + +2nd row: Purled. + +3rd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, * throw the +wool forward, knit 2 together twice, and repeat from *. + +4th row: Purled. + +5th row: Like the 2nd row. The pattern must be reversed. The pattern +figures increase with the increasings at the beginning and at the end +of each row. + +The pattern of illustration 331 consists of the 2 following rows:--1st +row: Slip 1, then alternately throw the wool forward, and knit 2 +together. + +2nd row: Entirely knitted; make 1 stitch of the wool thrown forward in +the last row. When the veil is finished, wet it, and stretch it over +paper or pasteboard; let it dry, and then edge it with the following +lace:--Cast on 10, knit the 1st. + +2nd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 9. + +3rd row: Knitted. + +4th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward, +knit 2 together twice, knit 4. + +5th row: Knitted. + +6th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward, +knit 2 together 3 times, knit 3. + +7th row: Cast off 3 stitches, knit 10. 8th row: Knitted. + +[Illustration: 331. Pattern of Veil.] + +[Illustration: 332.--Knitted Pattern with Embroidery.] + + * * * * * + +332.--_Knitted Pattern with Raised Embroidery_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8 or 20. + +This pattern is worked in rows going backwards and forwards with thick +or fine cotton according to the use you wish to make of it. The +star-like figures on the knitted squares are worked with soft cotton in +_point de poste_. Cast on a number of stitches long enough (19 stitches +are necessary for the two squares), work the 1st row: * Knit 11 +stitches, alternately 4 times knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward. +Repeat from *, The 2nd row is worked like the 1st, only purled, in this +row, as well as in the following ones, the stitch must be knitted with +the cotton thrown forward _after_ the stitch, the last stitch of a plain +square with the first cotton thrown forward of the open-work figure. The +number of stitches in the last must always be 8. The pattern consists +alternately of these two rows. Each pattern contains 12 rows, with the +13th the squares are reversed. The star figures are embroidered with +double cotton by working 5 chain stitch in the middle of each square; +draw the needle underneath the knitting to the next centre of a square. + + * * * * * + +333 _and_ 334.--_Knitted Table Cover, (see page 578.)_ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s coarse knitting cotton; thick +steel knitting-needles. + +[Illustration: 333.--Table-Cover Border.] + +This cover is suitable for either a large or a small table, as the +pattern may be increased as much as required. It is suitable for +antimacassars. Cast on 4 stitches, join them into a circle, and work the +1st round four times alternately. Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +2nd round: Entirely knitted. + +3rd round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. Repeat 7 times more from +*. After every pattern round knit 1 round plain. Until after the 21st +round, we shall not mention this any more. + +5th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. From the + +7th to the 12th round the knitted stitches in every other round increase +by 1 stitch, so that in the 12th round there are 7 stitches between +those formed by throwing the cotton forward. + +13th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 +together *. + +15th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together *. + +17th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together *. + +19th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, *. + +21st round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 *. + +22nd round: * Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3 +*. + +23rd round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton +forward, knit 3 *. + +24th round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5 *. + +25th round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw +the cotton forward, knit 4. + +26th round: Entirely knitted *. + +27th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton +forward, knit 1 *. + +28th round: Entirely knitted. + +29th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 *. + +30th round: Entirely knitted. + +31st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton +forward, knit 3 *. + +32nd round: Entirely knitted. + +33rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton +forward, knit 4 *. + +34th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5 +*. + +35th round: * Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton +forward, knit 5 *. + +36th round: * Knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 6 +*. + +37th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5 three times, throw the +cotton forward, knit 1 *. + +38th round: * Knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 8 +*. + +39th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton +forward, knit 3. throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 *. + +40th round: * Knit 9, knit 3 together, knit 10*. + +41st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 15, throw the +cotton forward, knit 3 *. + +42nd round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 4 +*. + +43rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 13, throw the +cotton forward, knit 4 *. + +44th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 5 +*. + +When the cover is completed, edge it all round, with the following +border worked the short way:--Cast on 5 stitches and knit the 1st row, +slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2. + +2nd row: Slip 1, knit the rest. Repeat this row after every pattern row. + +3rd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +5th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. + +7th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +9th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. + +11th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. + +13th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2. + +15th round: Cast off 8 stitches, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +16th round: Entirely knitted. Begin again at the 1st row, knit a +sufficient length of the border, and then trim the cover with it on the +outer edge. + +[Illustration: 335.--Looped Knitting.] + + * * * * * + +335.--_Looped Knitting._ + +Materials: 4-thread fleecy wool; 2 wooden knitting-needles; 1 flat +wooden mesh. + +Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, and knit the 1st row plain. + +2_nd Row_.--Slip the 1st stitch; insert the needle into the next stitch, +and throw the cotton forward as if you were going to knit the stitch; +place the mesh behind the needle in the right hand, and turn the wool +which is on this needle upwards, bring it back again on the needle so +that it is wound once round the mesh, and twice round the needle. Then +only the double stitch through the second stitch, knit it, and insert +the needle into the next stitch, and repeat what has been explained. +Knit the last stitch without a loop. + +3_rd Row_.--Before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and knit one +plain row. Every double stitch is knitted as one stitch, so as to attain +the same number of stitches as in the 1st row. + +4_th Row_.--Like the 2nd row. Repeat these rows as often as required. + +This knitting is chiefly used for borders of mats. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 336.--Pattern for Comforters.] + +336.--_Knitted Pattern for Comforters._ + +Materials: 4-thread fleecy; 2 wooden knitting-needles. + +Cast on a sufficient number of stitches. + +1st row: * 3 stitches in the first stitch, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit +3 stitches together, repeat from *. + +2nd row: Plain knitting. + +3rd row: Purled. + +4th row: Knitted. Repeat these four rows, only in the next row the 3 +stitches knitted together are worked on the 3 stitches worked in 1 +stitch, and the 3 stitches to be worked in 1 stitch are to be placed on +the one formed by knitting 3 stitches together. + + * * * * * + +337.--_Knitted D'Oyley. (See page 579.)_ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 36; glazed +embroidery cotton No. 10; steel knitting-needles. + +This pattern is knitted with very fine crochet cotton. The middle part +as well as the lace border are worked separately; the latter is sewn on +to the middle part. The spots in the thick parts are worked in +afterwards with coarser cotton. Commence the pattern in the centre, cast +on 6 stitches, join them into a circle, and knit 2 plain rounds. + +3rd round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward. + +4th and 5th rounds: Plain. + +6th round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward. + +7th round: Plain. Every other round is plain. We shall not mention these +plain rounds any more. + +8th round: Knit 2, * throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton +forward, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the round; lastly, throw +the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. + +10th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together. + +12th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together. + +14th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together. + +16th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together. The + +18th, 20th, 22nd, and 24th rounds are worked like the 16th round; only +the middle plain part of the pattern figures increases by 2 stitches in +every pattern round, so that there are 15 plain stitches in the 24th +round between the 2 stitches formed on either side of the same by +throwing the cotton forward. + +26th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw +the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 +together. + +28th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw +the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. + +30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, +throw the cotton forward knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit +6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward. + +32nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 13, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward. + +34th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward. + +36th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, +knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit +1, throw the cotton forward. + +38th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 7, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, +knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton +forward. + +40th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, +knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit +1, throw the cotton forward. + +42nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, +knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton +forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the +cotton forward. + +44th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the +cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit +3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, +throw the cotton forward. + +45th and 46th rounds: Plain, then cast off loosely. + +For the lace border, which is worked in the short way backwards and +forwards, cast on 22 stitches and knit as follows:--1st row: Slip 1, +knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, +knit 2 together. + +2nd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 11. + +3rd row: Slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit +2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton +forward, knit 1. + +4th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 9. + +5th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, +knit 2 together, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit +2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, +knit 1. + +6th row: Knit 2 together (knit together the stitch and the next stitch +formed by throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, +knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 10. + +7th row: Slip 1, knit 10, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together (stitch formed by +throwing the cotton forward and the next stitch). + +8th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 12. + +9th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, +knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit +2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, +knit 2 together. + +10th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit +14. + +11th row: Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, +knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the +cotton forward, knit 3 together. Then begin again on the 2nd row, and +work on till the border is long enough; sew the lace on to the centre, +slightly gathering the former. Lastly, work in the spots with glazed or +coarse embroidery cotton. + + * * * * * + +_338.--Knitted Braces_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8 or 12. + +These braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double; the +braces themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are knitted +plain. Begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a foundation chain +of 14 stitches, knit 5 rows plain backwards and forwards, then divide +the stitches into two halves to form the button-hole; knit 15 rows on +each of the halves consisting of 7 stitches; then take the 14 stitches +again on one needle and work 17 rows on them. Then work a second +button-hole like the first one; knit 6 more rows plain, increasing 1 at +the end of every row, so that the number of stitches at the end of the +lappet is 20. + +Then begin the pattern in brioche stitch; it is worked as follows:--Knit +first 1 row, then slip the first stitch of the first following pattern +row, * throw the cotton forward, slip the next stitch (slip the stitches +always as if you were going to purl them), knit 2 together; repeat 5 +times more from *; the last stitch is knitted. + +2nd row of the pattern: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 2; the stitch which +has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward is +slipped after the 2nd knitted stitch; repeat 5 times more from *; knit +the last stitch. + +3rd row: Slip the 1st stitch, * decrease 1 (here, and in all the +following rows, knit the next stitch together with the stitch before it, +which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton +forward), throw the cotton forward, slip 1; repeat from *; knit the last +stitch. + +4th row: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 1, slip the stitch which has been +formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward, knit 1, knit +the last stitch. Repeat these 4 rows till the braces are long enough. +The pattern is 19 inches long. Then knit 6 rows plain, decreasing 1 at +the end of every row, then work each lappet separately, dividing the +stitches so that each lappet is 7 stitches wide. Each lappet has 72 +rows; after the first 18 rows make a button-hole as described for the +preceding one. Work 18 rows between the 1st and 2nd button-hole. The +lappets are rounded off by decreasing after the 2nd button-hole. + +[Illustration: 338.--Knitted Braces.] + + * * * * * + +339.--_Pattern for Knitted Curtains, &c._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8. + +This pattern is suitable for knitting different articles, according to +the thickness of the cotton used. The number of stitches must be +divided by ten. The pattern is knitted backwards and forwards. + +[Illustration: 339.--Pattern for Knitted Curtains.] + +1st row: All plain. + +2nd row: * Knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over +the knitted one, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2. Repeat from *. + +3rd row: Purl the long stitch formed by making 2 in preceding row, * +make 2, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make 2, purl 3. Repeat +from *. (By _make_ 2 is meant twist the cotton twice round the needle, +which forms one long stitch, and is knitted or purled as such in next +row.) + +4th row: Knit 3, * make 2, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitch +over, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 5. Repeat from *. + +5th row: Purl 3, * make 2, purl 3 together, make 2, purl 7. Repeat +from*. + +6th row: Knit 3, * knit 2 together (1 stitch and 1 long stitch), make 2, +knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (the +knitted stitch is a _long stitch_), knit 5. Repeat from *. + +Continue the pattern by repeating always from the 2nd to the 5th row; +the 6th row is the repetition of the 2nd row, but it is begun (compare +the two rows) about the middle of the 2nd row, so as to change the +places of the thick diamonds in the following pattern. This will be +easily understood in the course of the work. + + * * * * * + +_340.--Knitted Insertion._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20 or 30. + +Cast on 14 stitches, and knit in rows, backwards and forwards, as +follows:--1st row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit +2, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw +cotton forward, knit 3. This row is repeated 18 times more; the stitch +formed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch. + +20th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; place next 3 stitches +upon another needle behind the cotton, and leave them alone; knit 1, +knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, now knit the first 2 of the 3 +stitches which have been left; knit the last of the 3 together with the +next stitch on the needle, throw cotton forward, knit 3. Repeat these 20 +rows till strip is long enough. + +[Illustration: 340.--Knitted Insertion.] + + * * * * * + +341 _and_ 342.--_Knitted Cover for Sofa Cushion._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 12; eight +ply fleecy wool. + +[Illustration: 341.--Stitch for Sofa Cover.] + +This cushion (15 inches wide, 12 inches high) is made of grey calico; it +is covered on one side with knitting, worked with grey crochet cotton. +The knitted cover has an open-work pattern, worked backwards and +forwards on a number of stitches which can be divided by 2, and which +must suit the width of the cushion, in the following manner:--1st row: +Alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. + +2nd row: Slip 1, knit the other stitches. The stitch formed by throwing +the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch. + +3rd row: Knit 1, * throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. Repeat +from *; after the last decreasing knit 1. + +4th row: Like the 2nd row. + +These four rows are repeated till the cover is sufficiently large. Draw +a narrow piece of red worsted braid through every other open-work row of +the pattern, as can be seen in illustration 341. When the cushion has +been covered with the knitting, it is edged all round with a border +knitted the long way, in the above-mentioned open-work pattern; it is 14 +rows wide, and also trimmed with worsted braid: a fringe of grey cotton +and red wool, 3 1/4 inches wide, is sewn on underneath the border at the +bottom of the cushion; to this is added a thick red worsted cord, by +which the cushion is hung on over the back of an arm-chair. The +cushion, on account of its simplicity, is especially suitable for garden +chairs. + +[Illustration: 342.--Sofa Cushion.] + + * * * * * + +343.--Netted Nightcap. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12. + +This cap is netted with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring +three-quarters of an inch round; work first a long square for the centre +of the crown, cast on 28 stitches, and work backwards and forwards 27 +rows with the same number of stitches. Then work 34 rounds round this +square, and fasten the cotton. Then count 43 stitches for the front +border, and 24 stitches for the back border, and leave them for the edge +of the cap. On the remaining stitches on each side work the strings in +95 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches; each +string is pointed off at the lower end by decreasing 1 stitch in every +row. Sew in a narrow piece of tape in the back border of the cap; the +remaining part of the border, as well as the strings, are trimmed with +crochet lace or with netted edging, No. 311. + +[Illustration: 343.--Netted Nightcap.] + + * * * * * + +344.--_Netted Nightcap_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton, 3-thread, No. +30. + +[Illustration: 344.--Netted Nightcap.] + +This nightcap is very simple and practical. It consists of two similar +three-cornered pieces, sewn together so as to form a double triangle; +the point of the triangle is turned back, as seen in illustration, and +fastened on the lower half of the same. The cap is edged with a lace; a +similar lace covers the seam between both parts of the cap. The pattern +is worked with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an +inch round. Begin each half in the corner; cast on 2 stitches, and work +backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row, +till the number of stitches is 60. Then sew both halves together, and +trim the cap and strings (the latter are worked as on the cap No. 343) +with the following lace: work 2 rows of open-work treble stitches--the +treble stitches are divided by 1 chain--then work 1 row of double, +always working 4 double round the chain stitches which divide 2 treble +in the preceding row, or with netted edging No. 311. + + * * * * * + +345.--_Knitted Pattern_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20 for +couvrettes, or Berlin wool for sofa quilts. + +This pattern can be worked either in wool or cotton, and is suitable for +many purposes. Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, divided by 18, +for the 1st row: Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw +the cotton forward knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6, repeat from *. + +2nd row: The stitches knitted in the 1st row are purled as well as the +stitches formed by throwing the cotton forward; the purled stitches are +knitted. This row is repeated alternately, therefore we shall not +mention it again. + +3rd row: * Knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the +cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2. + +5th row: Purl 4, * knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, +throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6. + +7th row: Knit 2, * purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. + +9th row: Knit 2, * purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4. + +11th row: * Knit 6, purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 +together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. + +13th row: Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, * knit 4, purl 6, +knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together. + +15th row: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton +forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2, knit 6. The knitting can now +be easily continued from illustration. + +[Illustration: 345.--Knitted Pattern.] + + * * * * * + +346 _to_ 348.--Knitted Shawl. + +Materials: Shetland wool, white and scarlet; steel needles. + +[Illustration: 346.--Pattern for Shawl (348).] + +[Illustration: 347.--Pattern for Shawl (348).] + +This shawl is knitted in the patterns given on Nos. 346 and 347. Both +illustrations show the patterns worked in coarse wool, so as to be +clearer. Begin the shawl, which is square, on one side, cast on a +sufficient number of stitches (on our pattern 290); the needles must not +be too fine, as the work should be loose and elastic. + +Knit first 2 rows plain, then 3 of the open-work row of pattern No. 346, +which is worked in the following manner:--1st row: Slip the first +stitch, * knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of +the stitch, slip 1, knit 2 together, throw the wool twice forward; +repeat from *. + +2nd row: Knit 1 and purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool +forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next +row the holes are alternated--that is, after the 1st slipped stitch knit +1, throw the wool forward, and then knit twice 2 together. + +When 3 such open-work rows are completed, knit 1 row plain, and then +work the pattern seen on No. 347, which forms the ground, and is worked +in the following way:--1st row: Slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw +the wool forward, and decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next, +and drawing the slip stitch over the knitted one. + +2nd row, entirely purled. + +When 6 such rows have been worked in this pattern, work again 9 rows of +the open-work pattern, but work on each side of the 2 stripes, each 6 +stitches wide, in the pattern of the ground (No. 347); each first stripe +is at a distance of 4 stitches from the edge, and each second stripe at +a distance of 20 stitches. After the 9th open-work row, work again 6 +rows in the pattern of the ground, then again 8 open-work rows, and then +begin the ground, only continue to work on both sides of the shawl the +narrow stripes of the ground pattern, the narrow outer and the two wide +inner stripes of the border in the open-work pattern. When the ground +(pattern No. 347) is square, finish the shawl at the top with two wide +and one narrow open-work row, as at the bottom, divided by stripes in +the ground pattern. Knot in, all round the shawl, a fringe of scarlet +wool; the fringe must be 3-1/2 inches deep. + +[Illustration: 348.--Knitted Shawl.] + + * * * * * + +TABLE OF SIZES OF MESSRS. WALTER EVANS & Co.'s +KNITTING COTTON, 3 THREADS. + +|------------------|-----------------------------| +| | No. | +|------------------|-----------------------------| +|Borders | 20, 80 | +|Couvrettes | 8 | +|D'Oyleys | 80, 100 | +|Edgings | 16, 30 | +|Insertions | 30, 50 | +|Nightcaps | 20 | +|Quilts | 4, 8, 12 | +|Socks | 20 | +|Table Covers | 16 | +|------------------------------------------------| + + + +MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS. + + + +ALPHABETS. + + * * * * * + +349.--_Alphabet_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +These letters are embroidered in overcast stitch and in satin stitch, +and are the capitals for the alphabet No. 350. Stars ornament this very +effective alphabet. + +[Illustration: 349.--Alphabet (Capitals).] + + +350.--_Alphabet (Small Letters)_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +This alphabet will be found useful for marking linen as well as +pocket-handkerchiefs. It is worked in satin stitch, the stars in fine +overcast; an eyelet-hole occupies the centre of each star. + +[Illustration: 350.--Alphabets (Small Letters)] + + + +351.--_Alphabet of Small Capitals_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 12 for +linen. No. 18 for handkerchiefs. + +These letters will be found useful for marking table-linen; they may be +worked either in green, red, or white cotton. The letters are worked in +raised satin stitch with raised dots and open eyelet-holes. + +[Illustration: 351.--Alphabet of Small Capitals.] + + +352.--_Alphabet_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 12. + +This pretty alphabet is worked in satin stitch, both raised and veined; +the design is composed of forget-me-not blossoms and leaves. Raised dots +worked in satin stitch form all the fine lines. + +[Illustration: 352.--Alphabet in Satin Stitch.] + +353.--Alphabet in Coral Stitch. + +Material: Coloured ingrain marking cotton, or black sewing silk, or +filoselle. + +The letters of this alphabet are particularly suitable for +pocket-handkerchiefs. The embroidery is worked either with marking +cotton, or coloured or black sewing silk; the long white lines are +worked in overcast stitch, the small white spots in satin stitch, the +remaining parts of the letters in coral stitch, as can be distinctly +seen in illustration. + +[Illustration: 353.--Alphabet in Coral Stitch.] + + +354--- Small Alphabet. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +This useful alphabet is worked in satin stitch, veined in parts and +ornamented with tendrils. As the alphabet of capitals (page 377, No. +351) and that of these small letters correspond, any name may be worked +from them. + +[Illustration: 354.--- Alphabet of Small Letters.] + + +355.--Alphabet (Capitals). + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and +20. + +This alphabet is worked in raised satin stitch, the outlines being +partly scalloped; for the fine lines, which should be worked in +overcast, embroidery cotton No. 20 should be employed. + +[Illustration: 355.--Alphabet in Satin Stitch.] + + +356. Alphabet (Capitals). + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +The alphabet here illustrated is in the florid style; the graceful +flowing lines are worked in raised satin stitch, as well as the +variously-sized dots which ornament the letters. + +[Illustration: 356.--Alphabet (Florid Capitals).] + + +357--Alphabet. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and +16. + +The letters are worked in point d'or, or dotted stitch, with an outline +in fine overcast, and large raised spots in satin stitch. The ornamental +wreaths round the first five letters can of course be worked round any +of the others. It is very fashionable to work one letter only upon +handkerchief corners. + +[Illustration: 357.--Alphabet in paint d'or.] + +358.--_Alphabet in White Embroidery_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16 + +This alphabet is worked in appliqué; the ears of corn only are worked in +overcast, satin, and knotted stitch. These letters look particularly +well on transparent materials. The ears may be omitted by beginners, +though they add much to the beauty of the alphabet. To this alphabet are +added the ten numerals, which will be found exceedingly useful. By means +of the whole alphabet and all these figures, any combination of initials +and numbers can be made. + +[Illustration: 358.--Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery.] + + +359.--_Alphabet (see page_ 402). + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20; very +fine black silk. + +The vine-leaves and grapes of this graceful and fanciful alphabet are +worked in veined and slightly raised satin stitch, the tendrils in point +russe; for these the fine black silk is employed. + + * * * * * + +360.--_Sampler (Frontispiece_). + +Materials: cambric muslin or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16, 18, and 20; red cotton and black silk. + +This illustration shows a sampler which will be found useful for +learning to embroider letters for marking linen. The material used is +cambric muslin or fine linen. Work the embroidery with white embroidery +cotton, red cotton, or black silk. The thick parts of the letters are +worked in slanting satin stitch and back stitch; the outlines of the +stitched parts are worked in overcast, as well as the fine outlines of +the letters and all the fine outlines of the patterns. The monograms and +crowns are worked in a similar manner. Work button-hole stitch round the +outside of the sampler. The letters and crowns may, of course, be +employed for other purposes. + + * * * * * + +361.--_Alphabet (Capitals)_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20 + +This effective alphabet is very easily worked, the stitches employed +being raised and veined satin stitch, and overcast. The raised dots are +worked in satin stitch, care being taken to preserve their position in +the _centre_ of each open space. + +[Illustration: 361.--Alphabet (Capitals).] + + * * * * * + + +MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS. + + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 362.--Alice.] + +362.--_Alice_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +The letters of this name, except the initial letter, are very simple, +being worked in plain satin stitch, while the initial letter is worked +in raised satin stitch, point de poste, and overcast. + + +363.--_Amalie_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and +20. + +[Illustration: 363.--Amalie.] + +The highly-ornate initial of this name is not difficult to work, +requiring only great regularity and evenness in embroidering the +tendrils and eyelet-holes. The veinings of the letter must be carefully +defined. The remainder of the name is executed in plain satin stitch, a +few eyelet-holes being introduced. + +"Amalie" can easily be altered into "Amelia" by changing the place of +the _a_ and _e_. In the centre of each letter a large eyelet-hole is +placed; smaller eyelet-holes of graduated sizes occupy parts of the +overcast scrolls, which should be worked with No. 20 cotton. The initial +letter is worked in raised satin stitch. + + +[Illustration: 364.--Amy.] + +364.--_Amy_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +This pretty name is worked in delicately raised satin stitch and point +de pois; the dots in dotted satin stitch, and the elegant little design +beneath is worked in point russe. + + +365.--_Annie_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +[Illustration: 365.--Annie.] + +The letter _A_ of this name is rather elaborate, and is worked in point +de pois or back stitching, the outlines in fine overcast, the letters in +satin stitch. The ornaments surrounding the word "Annie" are worked in +overcast. + + +366.--_A.M.K._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +This name is worked in satin stitch, with small dots of raised satin +stitch. The eyelet-holes in the middle letter to be worked in overcast. + +[Illustration: 366.--A.M.K.] + + +367.--_B.R._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +[Illustration: 367.--B.R.] + +These initials are worked in appliqué in the centre of a medallion in +satin stitch, overcast, and lace stitches. + + +368.--_Carrie_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +[Illustration: 368.--Carrie.] + +This name is very easy to work, being very clearly and simply +embroidered in overcast and satin stitch. The thick dots may be worked +without the eyelet-holes if preferred. + +[Illustration: 359.--Caroline.] + + +369.--_Caroline_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +This pretty name requires care in working; the leaves which adorn the +letters must be very well defined; they, as well as the letters, are +embroidered in satin stitch, the initial letter being veined, and the +ornaments worked in overcast and eyelet-holes. + + +370.--_Charlotte_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +[Illustration: 370.--Charlotte.] + +This name is worked in satin stitch and overcast, the small and elegant +dots in point de russe and graduated satin stitch; the large ones are +worked in raised satin stitch. + + +371.--_Cornelie_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +This word is worked in plain satin stitch, the ornamentation in overcast +stitch. + +[Illustration: 371.--Cornelie.] + + +372.--_C.M._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +This design is simple, is worked in graduated satin stitch, and is most +elegant. + +[Illustration: 372--C.M.] + + +[Illustration: 373.--Dora.] + +373.--_Dora_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30. + +This elaborate design should not be attempted by beginners in the art of +embroidery; it is worked in overcast stitch, raised and veined satin +stitch; the tendrils are entirely worked in graduated overcast; the name +is placed over a graceful spray of wild flowers worked in the +above-named stitches. This pattern, although originally designed to be +worked on net or fine muslin, is far more effective when worked on +cambric or fine lawn. + + +374.--_D.C._ + +[Illustration: 374.--D.C.] + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +These letters are worked in satin stitch and veined satin stitch; the +forget-me-nots are worked in raised satin stitch with a small +eyelet-hole in the middle worked in overcast stitch. + + +375.--_Emily_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This +name is worked in satin stitch, the dots in the middle in point de +poste, the rest of the letters in satin stitch and in dotted satin +stitch. + +[Illustration: 375.--Emily.] + + +376.--_Ernestine_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +This elegant design is most effective; the first letter very elaborate; +the rest of the letters simply worked in satin stitch. The small stars +are worked in overcast stitch, and the initial letter itself in veined +satin stitch. + +[Illustration: 376.--Ernestine.] + + +377.--_Etta_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 10. + +The letters which compose this name are formed entirely of leaves, +flowers, and tendrils, worked entirely in satin stitch and overcast; the +tendrils which surround the name are worked in overcast, and have a few +eyelet-holes placed among them. + +[Illustration: 377.--Etta.] + + +378.--_Eva_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and +20. + +This name is worked in satin stitch, the leaf in point de sable; the +veinings are worked in raised satin stitch. + +[Illustration: 378.--Eva.] + + +379.--_E.A._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s White and Red Embroidery Cotton +No. 30. + +This very pretty monogram is worked quite in a new style of embroidery. +The design represents the emblems of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The +outlines of the shield and cross are worked in overcast, the initials +"E.A.," the torch, and the anchor in satin stitch with white cotton, the +leaves partly in satin stitch with white and partly in point d'or with +red cotton, with only a fine outline in overcast. The cross and the +flames of the torch are embroidered in the same manner. + +[Illustration: 379--E.A.] + + +380.--_E.A.P._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +These pretty initials are worked in satin stitch, the middle +letter in point russe and point de poste. + +[Illustration: 380.--E.A.P.] + + +381.--_E.P._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +These elegant letters are worked in veined and raised satin +stitch. + +[Illustration: 381.--E.P.] + + +[Illustration: 382.--E.R.] + +382.--_E.R._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30. + +The ovals are worked in overcast and point de pois, the +letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch and +overcast. + + +[Illustration: 383.--E.A.] + +383.--_E.A._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +These initials are placed in a medallion; they are worked in +satin stitch and overcast, and in appliqué on muslin. For that +part of the pattern in which the name is to be embroidered the +material is taken double. + + +384.--_Elisabeth_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +This word is embroidered in satin stitch and overcast. A +few small eyelet-holes break the monotony of the outlines, and +give lightness to this name. + +[Illustration: 384.--Elisabeth.] + + +385.--_Elise_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and 16. + +The open part of these letters is ornamented by one or more +dots; the thick work is raised over chain stitches worked in +No. 12, a rather coarser cotton. + +[Illustration: 385.--Elise.] + + +386.--_Emma_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + + +This name is worked in satin stitch; the large dots may be worked with +the eyelet-holes in fine overcast, the smaller dots in satin stitch. The +remaining letters in raised satin stitch and point de sable. + +[Illustration: 386.--Emma.] + + +387.--_F.B._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +This elegant monogram is worked in raised satin stitch, the inside +embroidered with lace. The leaves and tendrils are worked in satin +stitch and point de sable. + +[Illustration: 387.--F.B.] + +388.--_F.S._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and +20. + +The initials "F.S." are placed in the pages of an open book, the +outlines of which are worked in overcast, the sides in point de pois. +The wreath of flowers which surrounds the book is embroidered in satin +stitch, the tendrils and veinings are in overcast. The initials are +worked in fine satin stitch. + +[Illustration: 388.--F.S.] + + +389.--_Fanny._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +This name is simply worked in satin stitch and overcast. + +[Illustration: 389.--Fanny.] + + +390.--_Francis._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +The initial letter of this elegant design is worked in fine +over-casting; the centre star in raised satin stitch with lace in the +middle; the leaves surrounding it in veined satin stitch; the other +letters are worked in plain satin stitch; and the dots of the line in +point de poste. + +[Illustration: 390.--Francis.] + + +391.--_E.C._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +The initials "E.C." are worked within a frame of overcast outlines and +satin stitch dots. Vine-leaves and grapes worked in point de pois and +eyelet-holes are placed as ornaments around the frame. + +[Illustration: 391.--E.C.] + + +392.--_Gordon_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +This pretty name being worked in raised satin stitch, is very suitable +for gentlemen's handkerchiefs. + +[Illustration: 391.--Gordon.] + + +393.--_Helene_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +We give the French version of this pretty name, it being easily changed +to English "Helen" by omitting the final _e_ in working. The name is +worked in plain satin stitch, slightly raised at the thickest parts of +the letters. + +[Illustration: 393.--Helene.] + + +394.--_H.D.G._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +This elegant design is worked in fine overcast and satin stitch, and +point de russe. + +[Illustration: 394--H.D.G.] + + +395--_Jessie._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +This design is very simple to work, the letters being so clear and well +defined. The thick satin stitch is scalloped in parts. + +[Illustration: 395.--Jessie.] + + +396.--_J.C._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 12. + +The letters "J.C." are worked in raised satin and overcast stitch, the +thickest part of each letter being worked in scallops. + +[Illustration: 396.--J.C.] + + +397.--_Lina_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +This name is worked in raised veined satin stitch; the small stars are +worked in point russe round eyelet-holes. + +[Illustration: 397. Lina.] + + +398.--_Lizzie_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +This name is worked partly in satin stitch, partly in raised dots and +fine overcast; the letters are in the Greek style, and have an excellent +effect if well worked. + +[Illustration: 398.--Lizzie.] + + +399.--_L.G.A._ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20, and +Linen Thread No. 16. + +Lace stitches are introduced in the medallion which incloses these +letters, the outlines being worked in overcast and point de pois, the +pens and initials in raised satin stitch, as also the flowers. The open +portion is filled in with Mechlin wheels, which are thus worked: A +number of single threads cross each other in the space to be filled up; +these are placed about a quarter of an inch from each other. All the +bars in one direction must now be worked in fine button-hole stitch, +then the opposite bars must be worked, and the button-hole stitch must +be continued about six inches past the point where the two lines cross. +The thread must be slipped loosely round the cross twice, running over +and under alternately, so as to form a circle; then work in button-hole +to the centre of a quarter of the circle; make a dot by inserting a pin +in the next button-hole and working three stitches in the loop thus +formed by the pin. These dots may be omitted from these wheels. + +[Illustration: 399.--L.G.A.] + + +400.--_L.C._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +The effect of this design when well worked is excellent, for, although +simple, the contrast between the letters and stars throws each into +relief. Veined and raised satin stitch, with very small eyelet-holes, +are the stitches used here. + +[Illustration: 400.--L.C.] + + +401.--_Marie_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 20 and +36. + +This name is embroidered in satin stitch; the veinings are well defined, +and the tendrils should be worked with No. 30 cotton, as they require +very fine work. Stars of overcast and eyelet-holes are the only +ornaments. [Illustration: 401--Marie.] + + +402.--_Maria_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30. + +The initial letter of this name is worked in overcast and point de pois, +the remaining letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch +and overcast. + +[Illustration: 402.--Maria.] + + +403.--_Maude_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +This name is worked in veined satin stitch; the small stars in raised +satin stitch, and the elegant tendrils are worked in overcast. This work +is peculiarly adapted for the marking of a trousseau. + +[Illustration: 403.--Maude.] + + +404.--_M._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +This elegant design can be worked in coloured silk if preferred, or the +coronet omitted at will. The letter "M" is worked in raised and veined +satin stitch; the centre stars are worked in fine overcast round an +eyelet-hole; the coronet is worked in very fine satin stitch and point +de pois, and stars to correspond with those worked in the letter and in +the wreath below, the leaves of which are worked in satin stitch and +overcast stitch. + +[Illustration: 404.--M.--Handkerchief Corner.] + + +405.--_M.B.D._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +These initials are worked in satin stitch and overcast, the open work in +fine overcast round eyelet-holes. + +[Illustration: 405.--M.B.D.] + +[Illustration: 406.--M.B.G.] + +406.--_M.B.G._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +These elegant letters are simply worked in graduated satin stitch and +fine overcast with eyelet-holes. + +[Illustration: 407.--M.H.E.] + + +407.--_M.H.E._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +This elegant design is worked in graduated satin stitch, the middle +letter is done in point croisé. This stitch is only worked on very thin +and transparent materials. Insert the needle into the material as for +the common back stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on the +opposite outline of the pattern so as to form on the wrong side a +slanting line. Insert the needle again as for common back stitch. + + +408.--_Natalie._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30. + +The initial letter of this word contains all those following, and is +surrounded by a wreath of roses and other flowers; these are worked in +satin stitch, the leaves in point de pois, the letters in raised satin +stitch. The dots which are represented on the groundwork of the initial +are worked in back stitching; these may be worked in scarlet ingrain +cotton if desired for morning handkerchiefs. + +[Illustration: 408.--Natalie.] + + +409.--_O.R._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +This monogram is worked in satin stitch, and the oval is worked in +eyelet-holes of graduated sizes. + +[Illustration: 409.--O.R.] + + +410.--_Phoebe_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +The first letter of this word is very elaborate; it is worked in satin +stitch, point de sable, and point de pois, the rest of the letters in +satin stitch. + +[Illustration: 410.--Phoebe.] + + +411.--_Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Perfectionné +No. 20. + +[Illustration: 411.--Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs] + +This monogram is worked partly in appliqué, partly in satin stitch. For +the middle part of the medallion sew on the pattern in appliqué of +cambric with button-hole stitch; the remaining part of the embroidery is +worked in satin stitch and point russe. + + +412.--_Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20, and +Linen Thread No. 20. + +This monogram is also worked in appliqué and satin stitch. The circle +all round the medallion is worked in appliqué; in the middle work lace +stitches from illustration. The edge of the medallion is worked round +with button-hole stitch. + +[Illustration: 412.--Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs.] + + +413.--_Rosa_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +Here the name is inclosed in a medallion of overcast and back stitching, +the lower part having a graceful wreath of leaves worked in satin +stitch. The letters which form the name are worked in raised and +scalloped satin stitch and point de pois. + +[Illustration: 413. Rosa.] + + +414.--_Rosina_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +The stars round this graceful initial letter are worked in raised satin +stitch round an eyelet-hole, the leaves in graduated satin stitch, the +stems overcast, the wreaths of flowers worked in satin stitch and open +eyelet-holes, the stems and veinings in overcast, and the stars on the +stems to correspond with those worked in the letter: the rest of the +letters in simple satin stitch rather thickly raised. + +[Illustration: 414.--Rosina.] + + +415.--_R.S._ + +Materials: Black china silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery +Cotton No. 16. + +These letters are worked in raised satin stitch with a design of point +russe worked in black silk. + +[Illustration: 415.--R.S.] + + +416.--_S.E.B._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. + +These letters are worked in graduated satin stitch, the centre star is +worked in raised satin stitch, and the four surrounding it as +eyelet-holes. + +[Illustration: 416.--S.E.B.] + + +417.--_L.E.P._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18. + +These initials are worked in plain satin stitch, and the elegant stars +are worked in point russe worked round an eyelet-hole. + +[Illustration: 417.--L.E.P.] + + +418.--_Victoria_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20. + +This name is most elaborately worked in satin stitch, over-casting and +eyelet-holes. The initial letter is worked in satin stitch, and the +stars in fine overcast round an eyelet-hole. + +[Illustration: 418.--Victoria.] + + * * * * * + + + + +POINT LACE WORK. + + + +Lace is of two kinds--pillow lace, which is made upon a cushion or +pillow, and point lace, which is made of stitches or _points_ worked in +patterns by hand, which are joined by various stitches forming a +groundwork, also the result of the needle above. + +Pillow lace is entirely worked on the pillow or cushion, the pattern and +ground being produced at the same time. Pillow lace is sometimes +correctly called bone or bobbin lace, but it appears that the +distinction has never been very nicely observed either by lace-workers +or lace-traders, many sorts which are really pillow lace being called +point, on account of some peculiarity in the stitch or pattern. + +The requisites for producing lace in perfection are the dexterity and +taste of the workers, and the goodness of the material. To produce many +beautiful fabrics a mechanical dexterity alone suffices, but in +lace-making the worker must have some artistic talent, even when +supplied with designs, for any one can perceive that deviations from the +design are easily made, and that the slightest alteration by a worker +wanting in taste will spoil the whole piece of workmanship. + +The following illustrations are specimens of ancient and modern laces +from Mrs. Bury Palliser's collection:-- + +[Illustration: 419.--Dalecarlian Lace.] + +[Illustration: 420.--Old Mechlin.] + +[Illustration: 421.--Mechlin Lace (Queen Charlotte's).] + +No. 419 shows Dalecarlian lace, made by the women of Dalecarlia. This is +a coarse kind of lace, and is sewn on caps, &c., and, although highly +starched, is never washed, for fear of destroying its coffee-coloured +tint, which, it appears, is as much prized now by the Swedish rustics as +it was by English ladies in the last century. + +[Illustration: 422.--Buckingham Point Trolly, 1851 (Black Lace).] + +Both these specimens of Mechlin belonged to Queen Charlotte, who much +admired this elegant lace. + +No. 423.--The Bedford plaited lace is an improvement on the old Maltese. + +Honiton guipure lace is distinguished by the groundwork being of various +stitches, in place of being sewn upon a net ground. The application of +Honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late years almost superseded +by this modern guipure. The sprigs, when made, are sewn upon a piece of +blue paper and united on the pillow with "cutworks" or "purlings," or +else joined with the needle by various stitches--lacet, point, réseau, +cutwork, button-hole, and purling. + +[Illustration: 423.--Bedford Plaited Lace (1851).] + +Those who wish to study lace and lace-making should read Mrs. Bury +Palliser's _History of Lace_ (Sampson Low and Marston). + +[Illustration: 424.--Honiton Guipure Lace.] + + + +POINT LACE. + + +The materials required for this elegant branch of needlework are neither +numerous nor expensive. TRACING CLOTH, LEATHER, or TOILE CIRÉE, various +BRAIDS and CORDS, LINEN THREAD and two or three sizes of needles, +scissors and thimble. TRACING CLOTH is required when ladies copy point +lace patterns, and is the most convenient mode of taking them, as the +design can be worked upon the tracing cloth, which, though transparent, +is very strong; the price is 1s. 6d. per yard. Fine LEATHER is the +material upon which bought patterns are usually traced, and is decidedly +more pleasant to work on than is any other material. In selecting +patterns ladies should choose those traced upon green leather in +preference to scarlet or buff, as green is better for the eyesight than +any other colour. + +[Illustration: 425.--Point Lace Scissors.] + +TOILE CIRÉE is only a substitute for leather, and is not as pleasant to +work upon in warm weather. + +The needles employed are usually Messrs. Walker's needles, Nos. 9 and +10. The scissors should be small, sharp, and pointed, as in illustration +No. 425. An ivory thimble may be safely employed in this light work. + +[Illustration: 426.--Linen Braid.] + +[Illustration: 427.--Linen Braid.] + +[Illustration: 428.--Linen Braid.] + +[Illustration: 429.--Linen Braid.] + +[Illustration: 430.--Linen Braid.] + +[Illustration: 431.--Linen Braid.] + +The BRAIDS are of various widths and kinds. None but pure linen braid +should be employed; those with machine-made edgings are eschewed by many +lace-workers, the plain, loose-woven linen braid of various widths and +qualities being alone acceptable to experienced hands. + +But all ladies do not care to be at the trouble of edging the braid, and +will find Nos. 426, 428, 430, and 431 very useful. No. 429 is a plain +linen braid with a vandyked edge, which works out very prettily. No. 431 +is an edged braid with open holes, in imitation of the point lace work +of the fifteenth century. + +Point lace cords resemble the satin stitch embroidery in their close, +regular smoothness; the price is 1s. per hank, and they are of various +thicknesses, from the size of a coarse crochet thread up to that of a +thick piping cord. These cords are used to ornament the braid, and are +closely sewn on the braid, following its every outline, and serve as +_beading_ to the edging, being always sewn on the outer edge alone. The +finer kinds of this cord are used in place of braid where very light +work is needed, as in the point lace alphabet which forms the +frontispiece of this work. Directions for laying on the cord when +employed as braid are given on page 500. When used as a finish only, and +to impart the raised appearance of Venice and Spanish lace, it is fixed +on the braid by plain, close sewing. The thread used should be +Mecklenburg linen thread; that of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. we +strongly recommend as being of pure linen, washing and wearing well; it +is pleasant to work with, from the regularity and evenness of the make. +The numbers run thus:--2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 30, 36, +and 40--and will be found adapted for every kind of lace stitch. No. 2 +is the coarsest, No. 40 the finest, size. + +In working point lace the following directions must be attended to: +Begin at the left hand, and work from left to right, when not otherwise +directed, as in reverse rows. Before cutting off the braid run a few +stitches across it to prevent it widening. Joins should be avoided, but +when a join is indispensable, stitch the braid together, open and turn +back the ends, and stitch each portion down separately. When passing the +thread from one part to another, run along the centre of the braid, +allowing the stitches to show as little as possible. In commencing, make +a few stitches, leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and +cutting it off afterwards. In fastening off, make a tight button-hole +stitch, run on three stitches, bring the needle out at the back, and cut +off. + +Having now completed our list of materials, we can proceed to lay on the +braid. + +[Illustration: 442.--Mode of Placing the Braid.] + +TO PLACE THE BRAID.--No. 442 shows the design traced upon paper or +tracing cloth, and lightly tacked to a foundation of leather or toile +cirée. Run on a straight line of braid for the lower edge, with fine +stitches, working as shown from left to right. Take another piece of +braid, or the other end of the same piece, and begin to lay the braid by +"running" stitches in its centre, keeping it as smooth and even as +possible. The outer edge presents no difficulty, but the inner edge will +not lie evenly without being drawn in by a needle and thread, as +follows:--Thread a No. 9 needle with No. 12 Mecklenburg thread about 20 +inches long, fasten the thread to one point, and insert the needle in +and out of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this thread +when drawn up will keep the braid in its place. Two or three fastening +off stitches should be worked when each circle, half circle, or rounded +curve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing or gathering thread +remains in the work, and forms an important, though unseen, part of its +structure. + +As much of the beauty of point lace depends upon the manner of placing +the braid, ladies cannot bestow too much pains upon this part of the +work, which is a little troublesome to beginners. Many fancy shops now +undertake this braid-placing for ladies, who can have their own pattern +braided and commenced or braided alone at trifling expense. Among these +may be mentioned the following houses:--Goubaud, 30, Henrietta-street, +Covent-garden. Boutillier, Oxford-street, W. + +The stitches used in point lace may be divided into-- + +STITCHES PROPER, or _points_. + +CONNECTING BARS. + +FINISHING EDGINGS. + +WHEELS, ROSETTES. + +The term point lace, or lace stitches (_points_), has of late been +applied to every stitch executed with Mecklenburg thread, and many +stitches are erroneously named by modern writers. As there are more than +one hundred stitches employed in this beautiful art, much study and +opportunity of seeing specimens of old point lace is required to give a +novice any idea of the various kinds of point lace; but by attention to +the following stitches the rudiments of the art may be easily acquired +and very beautiful lace produced. + +The first stitch is POINT DE BRUXELLES, or Brussels lace stitch. This +stitch, as may be clearly seen in illustration No. 433, is a simple +button-hole stitch worked loosely and with great regularity. The whole +beauty of Brussels lace depends upon the evenness of the stitches. This +stitch is sometimes employed as an edging, but is more often worked in +rows backwards and forwards, either as a groundwork or to fill spaces, +as in the point lace collar, No. 496. + +[Illustration: 433. Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace).] + +[Illustration: 434.--Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace Worked in Rows).] + +Brussels Point is the foundation of nearly all the lace stitches. + + +POINT DE VENISE (Venetian or Venice Point) is worked from left to right, +like Brussels point. Work one loose button-hole, and in this stitch +work four button-hole stitches tightly drawn up, then work another loose +button-hole stitch, then four more tight button-hole stitches in the +loose one, repeat to the end of the row, and fasten off. + +[Illustration: 435.--Point de Venise (Venice Point).] + + +[Illustration: 436.--Petit Point de Venise (Little Venice Point).] + +PETIT POINT DE VENISE (Little Venice Point) is worked in the same manner +as Point de Venise, but one tight stitch only is worked in each loose +button-hole stitch. This is a most useful stitch for filling small +spaces. + + +[Illustration: 437.--Point d'Espagne (Spanish Point).] + +No. 437.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Spanish Point) is worked from left to right +as follows:--Insert the needle in the edge of the braid, keeping the +thread turned to the right, bringing it out inside the loop formed by +the thread (see illustration No. 437); the needle must pass from the +back of the loop through it. Pass the needle under the stitch and bring +it out in front, thus twice twisting the thread, which produces the +cord-like appearance of this stitch. At the end of each row fasten to +the braid and return by sewing back, inserting the needle once in every +open stitch. + + +[Illustration: 438.--Close Point d'Espagne (Close Spanish Point).] + +No. 438.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Close) is worked in the same way as open +point d'Espagne, but so closely as to only allow the needle to pass +through in the next row. This stitch is also worked from left to right; +fasten to the braid at the end of each row, and sew back to the left +again. + + +No. 439.--TREBLE POINT D'ESPAGNE is worked in exactly the same way as +the open and close point d'Espagne, as may be seen in illustration No. +439. + +Three close stitches, one open, three close to the end of each row. Sew +back, and in the next row begin one open, three close, one open, then +close to the end; repeat the rows as far as necessary, taking care that +the close and open stitches follow in regular order. Diamonds, stars, +and various patterns may be formed with this stitch. + +[Illustration: 439.--Treble Point d'Espagne (Treble Spanish Point).] + + +No. 440.--POINT DE GRECQUE is begun from left to right, is worked +backwards and forwards, and is begun by one stitch in loose point de +Bruxelles and three of close point d'Espagne; then one Brussels, three +point d'Espagne to the end of the row; in returning work back in the +same manner. + +[Illustration: 440.--Point de Grecque (Grecian Point).] + + +No. 441. POINT DE VALENCIENNES (Valenciennes Stitch).--This stitch +appears complicated, but is really easy to work. Begin at the left hand +and work six point de Bruxelles stitches at unequal distance, every +alternate stitch being larger. 2nd row: Upon the first large or long +stitch work 9 close button-hole stitches, then 1 short point de +Bruxelles stitch under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so on +to the end of row (right to left). + +[Illustration: 441.--Point de Valenciennes (Valenciennes Stitch).] + +3rd row: 5 close button-hole in the 9 of previous row, 1 short point de +Bruxelles, 2 close in the Bruxelles stitch, 1 short point de Bruxelles, +5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, l short, 5 close, 1 short, +and repeat. 4th row: 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, 1 +short, 5 close, 1 short, 2 close, l short, and repeat. Continue the rows +until sufficient of the pattern is worked. + + +[Illustration: 442.--Point d'Alençon, with Twisted Stitch.] + +No. 442. POINT D'ALENÇON.--This stitch is used to fill up narrow spaces +where great lightness is required. Point d'Alençon is worked under and +over in alternate stitches, like hem stitch. Nos. 442 and 443 show point +d'Alençon. In No. 442 a twisted stitch is worked over the plain point +d'Alençon, which is clearly shown in No. 443; this twist is made by +passing the thread three times round each plain bar, and working the +knot shown in illustration No. 442 over _both_ strands of the bar. + +[Illustration: 443.--Point d'Alençon, with Button-hole Stitch.] + +The POINT D'ALENÇON No. 443 is a festoon of close button-hole stitch +worked over the plain bars. + + +[Illustration: 444.--Point d'Angleterre (Open English Lace).] + +No. 444.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE (Open English Lace).--Open English Lace is +thus worked:--Cover the space to be filled in with lines of thread about +one-eighth of an inch apart, then form cross lines, intersecting those +already made and passing alternately under and over them; work a rosette +on every spot where two lines cross, by working over and under the two +lines about 16 times round, then twist the thread twice round the +groundwork thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossing +threads. No. 445 shows this stitch much enlarged. + +[Illustration: 445.--Point d'Angleterre (Enlarged).] + + +No. 446,--POINT TURQUE (Turkish Stitch).--This easy and effective stitch +looks well for filling either large or small spaces; the thread employed +should be varied in thickness according to the size of the space to be +filled. 1st row: Work a loop, bringing the thread from right to left, +passing the needle through the twist and through the loop, draw up tight +and repeat. 2nd row: 1 straight thread from right to left. 3rd row: Work +the same as first using the straight thread in place of the braid, and +passing the needle through the loop of previous row, as shown in +illustration No. 446. + +[Illustration: 446.--Point Turque.] + + +No. 447.--CORDOVA STITCH is useful for varying other stitches. It +resembles the point de reprise of guipure d'art, and is worked in a +similar manner over and under the side of squares formed by straight and +parallel lines. (See No. 448.) + +[Illustration: 447.--Point de Cordova (Cordova Stitch).] + + +No. 448.--POINT DE REPRISE.--This stitch is worked by darning over and +under two threads, forming a triangle. The space is filled by parallel +and cross-way bars, placed at equal distances, and on the triangles thus +produced point de reprise is worked. + +[Illustration: 448.--Point de Reprise.] + + +No. 449.--POINT BRABANÇON (Brabançon Lace) is worked as follows:--Left +to right. 1st row: 1 long loose, 1 short loose, point de Bruxelles +alternately to end of row. 2nd row: 7 tight point de Bruxelles in the 1 +long loose stitch, 2 short loose point de Bruxelles in the short loose +stitch of previous row, repeat. 3rd row: Same as first. + +[Illustration: 449.--Point Brabançon (Brabançon Lace).] + + +[Illustration: 450.--Point de Fillet (Net Groundwork Stitch).] + +[Illustration: 451.--Point de Fillet and Point de Reprise.] + +No. 450 is used for groundwork where Brussels net is not imitated, and +is very effective. It is begun in the corner or crosswise of the space +to be filled. A loose point de Bruxelles stitch is first taken and +fastened to the braid, then passed twice through the braid as shown in +illustration, and worked in rows backwards and forwards as follows:--1 +point de Bruxelles stitch; before proceeding to the next stitch pass the +needle _under_ the knot, _over_ the thread, and again _under_ it, as +shown in illustration No. 450. This stitch is very quickly worked. No. +451 shows point de fillet applied in filling a space, with a few +stitches of point de reprise worked upon this pretty groundwork. + + +No. 452.--POINT DE TULLE.--This stitch is used as a groundwork for very +fine work, and is worked in rows backwards and forwards in the same +stitch as open point d'Espagne, page 457. When this is completed the +work is gone over a second time, by inserting the needle under one +twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at +, and bringing it out +again at the dot. This produces a close double twist which is very +effective. + +[Illustration: 452.--Point de Tulle.] + + +No. 453.--MECHLIN LACE (Mechlin Wheels).--This is one of the prettiest +stitches in point lace, but also one of the most difficult to work +correctly. It is thus worked:--Work a number of diagonal bars in +button-hole stitch on a single thread in one direction, then begin in +the opposite side the same way, and work 5 or 6 stitches past the spot +where the two lines cross, pass the thread round the cross twice under +and over the thread to form a circle. Work in button-hole stitch half +one quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead of +drawing the thread tight, and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop +held open by the pin, then take it out, and continue as before. +Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on the +wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal and +parallel lines of thread. + +[Illustration: 453.--Mechlin Lace Wheels.] + + +No. 454.--ESCALIER LACE.--This useful lace may be varied in pattern to +any extent by placing the open stitches in any desired order; it then +takes the name of diamond or Antwerp lace, according to the design. True +escalier lace is made by working nine button-hole stitches close +together; then miss 3--that is, work none in the space that 3 stitches +would occupy--work 9, miss 3 as before to the end of row, begin the 2nd +row 3 stitches from the end, to cause the open spaces to fall in +diagonal lines--a succession of steps or stairs (_escalier_), which +gives name to this stitch. + +[Illustration: 454.--Escalier Lace Worked in Diamonds.] + + +No. 455.--SPANISH POINT LACE is adorned with highly-raised scrolls, +flowers, &c. This is effected by working over an underlay of coarse +white thread or over fine white linen cords. The wheels are worked by +winding soft coarse linen thread round pencils or smooth knitting-pins +of various sizes, and working over the circle thus obtained a succession +of close button-hole stitches. These wheels are sewn on to the lace when +completed. The groundwork of Spanish lace is usually worked in what are +called Raleigh Bars (see page 477), but this lace has sometimes for +groundwork point de Venise. An easy mode of working this handsome lace +is to trace the design upon very fine good linen; raise the thick parts +as above directed, and embroider the whole in fine thick scalloped +button-hole stitch; fill the ground with Raleigh bars, or, as shown in +illustration No. 455, in treble point de Venise, and cut away the linen +from beneath the groundwork. + +[Illustration: 455.--Spanish Point Lace (Worked à l'Anglaise).] + + + +WHEELS AND ROSETTES. + + +Wheels or rosettes are used to fill up circles, or in combination to +form lace. The simplest is-- + +THE SORRENTO WHEEL.--Nos. 456 and 457.--This is worked by fastening the +thread in the pattern to be filled up by means of the letters. Fasten it +first at the place _a_, then at the place _b_, carrying it back to the +middle of the first formed bar by winding it round, fasten the cotton at +the place _c_, carrying it back again to the centre by winding it round +the bar, and so on; then work over and under the bars thus formed as in +English lace. See page 462, and illustrations Nos. 456 and 457. + +[Illustration: 456 and 457.--Sorrento Wheels.] + + +No. 458.--ENGLISH WHEEL.--This is worked in the same manner as the +Sorrento wheel, but instead of _winding_ the thread over and under the +bars, the needle is inserted under each bar and brought out again +between the thread and the last stitch; this gives a kind of button-hole +stitch, and gives the square, firm appearance possessed by this wheel. + +[Illustration: 458.--English Wheel.] + + +No. 459.--ROSETTE IN POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--This rosette is worked in a +somewhat similar manner to the wheel above described, the difference +being that after each stitch passed round and under the bars, the thread +is passed loosely round in the reverse direction, as shown in +illustration No. 459, before proceeding to make the next stitch. + +[Illustration: 459.--Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre.] + + +No. 460 is a rosette or star which is used to fill circles of braid, and +forms the centre of many modern point lace patterns. It is worked upon +a pattern traced and pricked in small holes at equal distances. Two +threads are employed, one coarse tracing thread, the other of finer +thread. The coarse thread is laid on thus:--Pass the needle containing +the fine thread, No. 12, through one of the pricked holes, over the +tracing thread and back through the same hole; repeat, following the +traced outline until the whole of the coarse thread is laid over the +outline, then work over in tight button-hole stitch with picots or +purls, as on the Raleigh bars (see page 477). This mode of laying on +tracing or outlining thread is also applied to fine braid and to point +lace cord, as in the alphabet No. 400 (see page 500). + +[Illustration: 460.--Rosette for centre of Point Lace Circles.] + + + +BARS. + + +The word _Bar_ is applied to the various stitches used to connect the +various parts of point lace work, and the beauty of the work depends +greatly upon the class of bar and its suitability to the lace stitches +used. The simplest bar is-- + +No. 461.--THE SORRENTO BAR.--It is worked from right to left, a straight +thread being carried across and fastened with a stitch. The return row +consists of a simple twist under and over the straight thread; three of +these bars are usually placed close together at equal distances between +each group. The thread is sewn over the braid in passing from one spot +to another. + +[Illustration: 461.--Sorrento Bars.] + +[Illustration: 462.--Sorrento Bars.] + +Sorrento bars are also applied as shown in illustration No. 462. + + +No. 463.--D ALENCON BARS are worked upon point de Bruxelles edging, and +are only applied to the inner part of a pattern, never being used as +groundwork bars. The thread is merely passed three times over and under +the point de Bruxelles stitches, the length of these bars being +regulated by the space to be filled; when the third bar is completed a +tight point de Bruxelles stitch is used to fasten off the bar, the +thread is passed through the next point de Bruxelles stitch, and a +second bar begun. + +[Illustration: 463.--D'Alençon Bars.] + + +[Illustration: 464.--Venetian Bar.] + +No. 464.--THE VENETIAN BAR is so simple that it hardly needs +description. It is worked over two straight threads in reverse +button-hole stitch. No. 465 shows the Venetian bar applied as the +"veining" of leaf, and worked upon Sorrento bars. + +[Illustration: 465.--Venetian Bar.] + + +No. 466.--VENETIAN BARS are worked so as to form squares, triangles, +&c., in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread. The arrow in the +illustration points to the direction for working the next. + +[Illustration: 466.--- Plain Venetian Bars.] + + +No. 467.--BARS OF POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--These bars may be worked singly +or to fill up a space, as in illustration. Work rosettes as in point +d'Angleterre, page 461; when each rosette is finished twist the thread +up the foundation thread to the top, fasten with one stitch, then pass +it under the parallel line running through the centre and over into the +opposite braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting the +threads as in illustration. + +[Illustration: 467.--Bars of Point d'Angleterre.] + + +No. 468.--POINT DE VENISE BARS (EDGED).--Begin at the right hand and +stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid, fastening it +with one tight stitch of point de Bruxelles. Upon this line work a +succession of tight point de Bruxelles stitches. In every third stitch +work one point de Venise stitch. + +[Illustration: 468.--Point de Venise Bars (Edged).] + + +No. 469.--We now come to the most important feature of BARS--the _dot, +picot_, or _purl_, for by all these names it is known. This dot is +worked in various ways upon different lace bars. Dotted point de Venise +bars are worked as follow:-- + +[Illustration: 469.--Dotted Point de Venise Bars.] + +Stretch the thread from right to left, on this work five tight stitches +of point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last stitch to hold it +open and loose, pass the needle under the loose stitch and over the +thread, as clearly shown in illustration No. 469, and in this loop work +three tight point de Bruxelles stitches. Then work five more stitches, +and repeat to end of row. + + +[Illustration: 470.--Picot or Dot on Sorrento Bar.] + +No. 470 shows a dot or picot upon a Sorrento bar worked between rows of +point de Bruxelles, three twisted stitches being worked into the loop +left by the twisted thread; this forms a picot resembling satin stitch +in appearance. + + +Nos. 471 and 472.--RALEIGH BARS are worked over a foundation or network +of coarse thread, twisted in places so as to more easily fall into the +desired form. + +[Illustration: 471.--Raleigh Bars.] + +[Illustration 472.--Network for Working Raleigh Bars.] + + +By following the numbering from No. 1 to 21, in No. 472, a square place +may be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement applied to form +groundwork of any shape desired. Upon this groundwork tight point de +Bruxelles stitches are worked, and the dot worked upon these in one of +the following ways:-- + +DOT or PICOT.--1st Mode: Five tight point de Bruxelles stitches, one +loose point de Bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and over the +thread, as shown in point de Venise bars No. 469, draw up, leaving a +small open loop as in tatting. Work five tight point de Bruxelles and +repeat. 2nd Mode: Proceed as above, but instead of continuing the tight +stitches work two or three tight stitches in the loop thus formed, and +repeat. 3rd Mode: Work four tight point de Bruxelles stitches, one +loose, through which pass the needle point, wind the thread three or +four times round the point, as shown in illustration No. 473, press the +thumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and thread through the +twists. This is a quick mode of making the picot, and imitates most +closely the real Spanish lace. + + +Illustration No. 473 also shows how this stitch may be applied as a +_regular_ groundwork, but the beauty of old point groundwork bars is the +variety of form. + +[Illustration: 473.--Third mode of making Picots or Dots.] + + + +EDGES AND PURL FINISH. + + +The correct edging of lace is a most important part of this art, and +care should be taken to work a proper edge for each kind of lace. +Sorrento edging should be worked upon Limoges lace. Spanish lace +requires a full rich edge, as shown in No. 478, &c. The simplest edge is +point de Bruxelles, which is worked somewhat like the stitch No. 433, +and is secured by a knot worked in the braid. Many lace-workers omit +this knot. + +[Illustration: 474.--Point de Bruxelles Edging.] + + +No. 475.--SORRENTO EDGING is worked with one short and one long stitch +alternately. + +[Illustration: 475.--Sorrento Edging.] + + +No. 476.--POINT DE VENISE is worked precisely like that stitch (see page +456), three and even four stitches being worked in the loop. + +[Illustration: 476.--Point de Venise Edging.] + + +No. 477.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE EDGING is worked in point de Bruxelles, the +thread being again drawn through the braid before proceeding to the next +stitch. This edging is strong and useful. + +[Illustration: 477.--Point d'Angleterre Edging.] + +No. 478.--POINT D'ESPAGNE EDGING.--This stitch is easily worked. Insert +the point of the needle through the braid and wind the thread round it +20 times, draw the needle through these windings and draw the picot +tight, sew over the braid the space of 3 stitches, and repeat. + +[Illustration: 478.--Point d'Espagne Edging.] + + +No. 479.--ANTWERP EDGE.--This edge is only a variety of point +d'Angleterre edging, and differs only in the mode of making the knot; +the thread is passed over, under, and through the loop formed by the +point de Bruxelles lace. + +[Illustration: 479.--Antwerp Edge.] + +NOTE.--It will be observed that the stitches here given are much +enlarged for the sake of clearness in showing details. + + + +PATTERNS. + + +No. 480.--_Star in Point Lace_. + +Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. +20. + +Trace the outline upon paper or leather, lay the braid on as directed. +Work the centre in Sorrento bars, and on these work a rosette in point +d'Angleterre, the edge in point d'Angleterre edging, and the wheels in +open English lace. + +[Illustration: 480.--Star in Point Lace.] + + * * * * * + +No. 481.--_Medallion in Point Lace_. + +Materials: Linen Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg +thread No. 14. + +This medallion is useful for cravat ends and for a number of purposes, +as trimming for sachets, dresses, &c. Having placed the braid as before +directed, work an English rosette in the centre, fill in the ground with +point de fillet or with point de Bruxelles. An edging of Spanish point +completes this pretty medallion. + +[Illustration: 481.--Medallion in Point Lace.] + + * * * * * + +No. 482.--_Point Lace Border_. + +Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. +12. + +This border represents the completed work shown on p. 454. A point +d'Angleterre rosette is worked in each circle. The plain braid is +edged by Sorrento edging. Venice bars are worked above the trimming, and +treble point de Venise edges the border. + +[Illustration: 482.--Point Lace Border.] + + * * * * * + +No. 483.--_Point Lace Border_. + +Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. +10. + +This border is both easily and quickly worked in Sorrento bars. The edge +is worked in two rows of point de Bruxelles. + +[Illustration: 483.--Point Lace Border.] + + * * * * * + +No. 484.--_Insertion in Limoges Lace_. + +Materials: Plain linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg +thread No. 14. + +This insertion will be found very useful, being so quickly worked. +Edge the braid with Sorrento edging, fill up with bars and plain point +d'Alençon and Sorrento wheels, No. 456. + +[Illustration: 484.--Insertion in Limoges Lace.] + + * * * * * + +No. 485--_Point Lace Border for Handkerchief._ + +Materials: Fine lace braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +Mecklenburg thread No. 24. + +This border is suited for a handkerchief or for trimming a square +bodice. The braid is not tacked on by stitches running through the +centre, as is usual in point lace braids, but sewn on by passing a +thread from underneath over the braid and out through the same hole, as +is done by lace-workers with a thick thread; this forms the design. The +stitches employed in this pattern are Raleigh bars, which connect the +work; Sorrento edging, which finishes the whole outline; English +rosettes filling the open spaces. Point lace cord may be used for this +in place of braid. + +[Illustration: 485. Point Lace Border for Handkerchief.] + + * * * * * + +No. 486.--_Star-Centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace_. + +Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. +16 and 12. + +[Illustration: 486.--Star-centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace.] + +This beautiful star will be found useful for other purposes than as a +toilette cushion cover, and is worked as follows:--English rosette in +centre; Sorrento wheels in the 4 ovals, worked with No. 12 thread; point +de Bruxelles ground, worked with No. 16; braid edged by dotted Venetian +edges. The eight spaces may be filled with 2 or 4 contrasting +stitches, taking care that they contrast well, and are placed +alternately, and worked in No. 12. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 487.--Cravat End in Point Lace.] + +487.--_Cravat End in Point Lace_. + +Materials: Fine braid: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread +No. 12. + +This cravat is worked in Sorrento wheels, point d'Alençon +bars, and Sorrento edging. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 488.--Point Lace Edging.] + +[Illustration: 489.--Point Lace Edging.] + +488 _and_ 489.--_Point Lace Edgings_. + +Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. +12 and 16. + +These edgings can be used as a finish to insertions and other trimmings +or for edging couvrettes. No. 488 is worked with Sorrento wheels; the +edge in two rows of point de Bruxelles, a straight thread being drawn +from the end to the beginning of each scallop over which the second row +is worked. No. 489 is worked with the same materials in treble point de +Venise, edged by the same, and finished off with a row of point de +Bruxelles, the upper edge being worked in the same way. + + * * * * * + +490.--_Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &c._ + +Materials: Linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg +thread Nos. 10 and 16. + +This design may be used for a variety of purposes, and is extremely +effective. The principal stitches required are given at the sides of the +pattern. _a_ is Valenciennes lace, _b_ Brussels net, _c_ Venetian +spotted, _d_ Sorrento edging, _e_ Mechlin wheel, _f_ English rosette, +_g_ Raleigh bars. + +[Illustration: 490.--Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &c.] + + * * * * * + +491.--_Oval for Cravats, &c._ + +Materials: Point lace cord; muslin; embroidery cotton; Messrs. Walter +Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 14 and 18. + +This beautiful oval is worked in point lace and embroidery. This is +begun from the centre on the muslin by over-casting the space filled by a +wheel. The eyelet-holes are then worked, and the satin stitch ornament +raised and prepared for working. The edge, of point lace cord, is then +laid on, and the under portion edged in tight and open point de +Bruxelles, the centre of the circles being worked in point de Bruxelles. +The light groundwork is worked entirely in Mechlin wheels, the satin +stitch being worked when these are completed. This pattern can be +enlarged and applied to many purposes. The muslin is cut away when the +whole work is finished. + +[Illustration: 491.--Oval Pattern for Ornamenting Cravats, &c.] + + * * * * * + +492.--_Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice_. + +Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. +12 or 20. + +We give two sizes of thread, as this design is capable of many uses, and +the size of the thread differs with these. The pattern is worked in +English rosettes and bars (see No. 467). No. 488 edging looks well with +this pattern. + +[Illustration: 492.--Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice.] + + * * * * * + +493--_Point Lace Collar._ + +Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +Mecklenburg thread No. 22. + +[Illustration: 493--Point Lace Collar.] + +Set on the braid or cord by passing a thread through a hole pricked +in the pattern over the braid and out again through the same hole. Edge +the braid with point de Bruxelles, the design being filled by Mechlin +wheels, Sorrento wheels, point de feston, and the mixed stitch shown in +No. 494, which is composed of d'Alençon and Sorrento bars, and is easily +worked. Those who cannot work Mechlin wheels easily, can substitute +close English, as shown in illustration No. 495. The bars are Sorrento. + +[Illustration: 494.--D'Alençon and Sorrento Bars.] + +[Illustration: 495.--Close English Wheels.] + + * * * * * +[Illustration: 496--Point Lace Collar.] + +496.--_Point Lace Collar._ + +Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +Mecklenburg thread No. 22. + +This collar is worked in the same way as No. 493, though the stitches +vary. The Grecian line is worked in point de reprise, the pattern in +close English wheels, point de reprise, point de Bruxelles, English +rosettes, and Raleigh bars. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 497.--Point Lace Lappet.] + +497.--_Point Lace Lappet._ + +Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. +16 or 24, according to the fineness required. + +This lappet is exceedingly pretty. It is composed of the following +stitches:--Point d'Alençon, point de tulle, English rosettes, Sorrento +bars, d'Alençon bars, dotted Venise bars, and the fancy stitch point +d'Anvers, which is not a true point lace stitch, but which is much +employed in modern point. + +[Illustration: 497.--Point Lace Lappet.] + +[Illustration: 498.--Point d'Anvers.] + +[Illustration: 499.--Point Grecque.] + +Point Grecque is another useful variety of fancy stitch, and so easily +worked as to be a favourite stitch with beginners. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 500.--Letter A in Point Lace.] + +[Illustration: 501.--Letter A Enlarged.] + +_500 to 502.--Alphabet in Point Lace. (See endpapers.)_ + +Materials: Point lace cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg +thread No. 36. + +This alphabet is useful for marking pocket-handkerchiefs, and for +initials for sachets, &c. The cord is laid upon the pattern and pricked +out by passing a thread up through a hole over the cord, and back +through the same hole; then pass on to the next hole, and repeat. The +holes should be about an eighth of an inch apart, or nearer when the +pattern is finely convoluted. The letters are worked in point de +Bruxelles, point d'Alençon, and dotted Sorrento bars. No. 501 shows the +letter A greatly enlarged, to show the mode of working. + + * * * * * + +TABLE OF THREADS SUITED TO VARIOUS +ARTICLES WORKED IN POINT LACE. + +|----------------------------------|-------------------| +|Caps | 36 " " | +|Collars | 30 " " | +|Couvrettes | 2 4 6 | +|Cravats | 18 30 " | +|D'Oyleys | 8 10 12 | +|Dress Trimmimgs | 22 30 " | +|Edgings | 14 30 " | +|Handkerchiefs | 30 36 40 | +|Insertions, coarse | 6 8 12 | +| " fine | 24 30 " | +|----------------------------------|-------------------| + +Point lace cord runs about twelve yards to the hank. + +Point lace edged braid runs thirty-six yards on cards. + +Plain linen twelve yards in each hank. + + * * * * * + + + + +GUIPURE D'ART. + + + +INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS + +IN + +GUIPURE D'ART. + + * * * * * + +Ancient Guipure was a lace made of thin vellum, covered with gold, +silver, or silk thread, and the word Guipure derives its name from the +silk when thus twisted round vellum being called by that name. In +process of time the use of vellum was discontinued, and a cotton +material replaced it. Guipure lace was called _intelle à cartisane_ in +England in the sixteenth century. Various modern laces are called +Guipure, but the word is misapplied, since Guipure lace is that kind +only where one thread is twisted round another thread or another +substance, as in the ancient Guipure d'Art. + +In every design where lace can be introduced, Guipure d'Art will be +found useful. It looks particularly well when mounted upon quilted silk +or satin. The squares, when worked finely, look well as toilet-cushions, +or, if worked in coarser thread, make admirable couvrettes, and as +covers for eider-down silk quilts are very elegant. Guipure squares +should be connected by guipure lace, crochet, or tatting, or they may be +edged with narrow guipure lace and joined at the corners only when +placed over coloured silk or satin; thus arranged, a sofa-cushion +appears in alternate squares of plain and lace-covered silk; a ruche of +ribbon and fall of lace to correspond completes this pretty mounting. + +Not one of the least important attractions of Guipure d'Art is the speed +with which it is worked, and the ease with which fresh patterns are +designed by skilful workers. + +GUIPURE D'ART is an imitation of the celebrated ancient Guipure Lace, +and is worked in raised and intersected patterns upon a square network +of linen thread, Mecklenburg thread of various sizes being used for this +purpose. The needles employed are blunt, and have large eyes, to admit +the linen thread. + +Materials required: One frame of wire covered with silk ribbon; one +square of Mecklenburg thread net (_fillet_), either coarse or fine; +Mecklenburg thread; netting-needles and meshes of various sizes. + +The netted foundation, or "_fillet_," upon which this elegant work is +embroidered, can be made by ladies very easily, and at much less cost +than when bought ready made. + +The square is worked by netting with coarse No. 2 or fine No.10 thread +over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch or more, in rows +backwards and forwards. Begin with 2 stitches, and increase 1 at the end +of every row till you have one more stitch than is required for the +number of holes. Thus, if a square of 26 holes is required, continue to +increase up to 27 stitches, then decrease 1 at the end of every row till +2 stitches only remain. The last 2 stitches are knotted together without +forming a fresh stitch. + +The completed foundation is laced upon the frame, taking the lacing +cotton through the double edge formed by the increased and decreased +stitches. If the four corners of the netting are tied at each corner of +the frame before beginning the lacing, that operation is greatly +facilitated. The netting should be laced as tightly as possible, it +being far easier to darn on than when loose. + +[Illustration: 503.--Frame for Guipure d'Art.] + +Ladies who wish to excel in working guipure d'art should practise each +of the stitches until they attain perfect regularity and quickness in +their execution. Two or three hours devoted to this in the first +instance will not be time wasted, as the most elaborate pattern will be +worked with ease as soon as the stitches are mastered. + +The Mecklenburg thread of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, will +be found a better colour than any other, as it closely resembles the +shade of the ancient guipure lace. + +It is sold only in spools of 200 yards each, and the numbers run as +follow; No. 2, 4, 6, 8, lo, 12, 16, 20; No. 2 being the coarsest, and +No. 20 the finest. + +The principal stitches used in guipure d'art are POINT D'ESPRIT, POINT +DE TOILE, POINT DE FESTON, POINT DE REPRISE, POINT DE BRUXELLES, and +WHEELS and STARS. POINT D'ESPRIT is worked with finer cotton than the +foundation, say No. 10 on a foundation of No. 6. It consists of a +succession of small loops, as will be seen clearly in the illustration. +The learner should begin from the mark * No. 503, and working a row of +loops the length required, turn the frame and work loops on the opposite +half of each square intersecting the first worked loops in the centre of +each intervening bar of netting. A careful examination of Nos. 503 and +506 will explain this more clearly than is possible in words. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 504.--Point d'Esprit.] + +POINT DE TOILE, or LINEN STITCH, is plain darning under and over each +thread; this forms a fine close groundwork, and is much used in guipure +d'art. Care should be taken to keep the same number of stitches in each +square, both along and across; the number of threads shown in +illustration No. 504 is 4 only, but 6 and even 8 are used in many netted +foundations in fine patterns. + +[Illustration: 505.--Point de Toile.] + + * * * * * + +POINT DE FESTON is worked by a series of overcast stitches, as seen by +illustration 506, which clearly shows the manner of working. The frame +is turned at each stitch, the stitches are taken across the squares, and +increase in length at the top of the square. + +[Illustration: 506.--Point de Feston.] + + * * * * * + +POINT DE REPRISE, or DARNING, is worked by stretching 2 or 3 threads +over 1, or 2, or more squares. The thread is darned over and under, and +the needle used to arrange the last stitch while passing through to form +the next. This stitch is very easily acquired. It is always worked with +coarser thread than the foundation; No. 2 thread should be employed for +a coarse groundwork. No. 510 shows this stitch used to form stars, +figures, &c. + +[Illustration: 507--Point de Reprise.] + +[Illustration: 508.--Leaf.] + + * * * * * + +POINT DE BRUXELLES, as shown on pages 506 and 507, is a kind of loose +button-hole stitch, and is used for forming various patterns and for +filling up squares. It also forms "leaves," when the number of stitches +is decreased each row until the leaf finishes off in a point. Nos. 509 +and 510 clearly show this stitch. + +[Illustration: 509.--Point de Bruxelles.] + +[Illustration: 510.--Point de Bruxelles.] + + * * * * * + +WHEELS are easy to work, and are begun in the centre. Four threads are +taken across, as shown in design No. 511; the thread is twisted in +bringing it back to the centre, and the wheel formed by passing the +thread under and over the netting and the crossing threads. It is +fastened off on the back of the several wheels. + +[Illustration: 511.--Wheel (commenced).] + +[Illustration: 512.--Wheel.] + +Wheel No. 513 is a square wheel, and is worked in the same manner, with +the addition of point d'esprit loops, through which, and under and over +the cross-twisted threads, 4 or 5 rows of thread are passed. + +[Illustration: 513.--Square Wheel.] + +[Illustration: 514.--Wheel larger than its real size.] + + * * * * * + +STARS are of various form, as shown in Nos. 516, 517, 518, 519, and 520. + +No. 516 is worked in point de feston (see page 507) round a single +square hole, which is filled in by a small wheel or rosette. + +No. 517 is worked in point de feston and point de Bruxelles, +alternately round a centre simply crossed by point d'esprit threads. + +[Illustration: 516.--Star.] + +No. 518 is more elaborate, and is worked thus:--Begin at the place +marked _a_; twist the linen thread 3 times round the nearest thread, +draw it on to the knot _b_; repeat this 3 times, following the order of +the letters; twist the linen thread also between the threads, as can be +seen from the illustration, and fasten it underneath the knot _a_; for +the wheel fasten on the cotton afresh and work the remaining pattern in +darning stitch (point de reprise). + +[Illustration: 517.--Star.] + +[Illustration: 518.--Star.] + +No. 520 consists of a double cross formed by twisted loops of linen +thread. Copy these loops exactly from illustration 520 One part of the +straight cross lies underneath, then comes the slanting cross, and +lastly, the other part of the straight cross. + +[Illustration: 519.--Detail of Star.] + +[Illustration: 520.--Star.] + +In the centre the loops of linen thread are fastened with two rounds of +stitches. (See illustration 520). + +OVERCAST STITCH is worked like embroidery overcast, and forms the stems +of the flowers and leaves of guipure d'art; it is worked over one or two +coarse threads. It is employed in No. 530, and forms the triangles in +the centre of the middle squares. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 521.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.] + +521.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art._ + +Materials: Guipure frame netting of 6 holes wide; Mecklenburg thread No. +8 or 10; needle No. 7. + +For the netted foundation, which is six holes wide, begin at one corner +with 2 stitches, work 5 rows, at the end of each of which increase 1 +stitch, continue to work the strip with the same number of stitches, +alternately decreasing 1 at the end of one row and increasing 1 at the +end of the next. For decreasing net 2 stitches together, for increasing +net 2 stitches in the same hole. When the strip is sufficiently long, +complete it by decreasing in the same proportion as the increasing at +the beginning. As the pattern is so clearly shown in the illustration, +it will be very easy to work from it. It is worked in point de feston +and star wheels; the border is in point d'esprit. The insertion is +finished on either side with a row of button-hole stitches. + + * * * * * + +522.--_Lace Border in Guipure D'Art_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 10. + +This border may be used for various purposes; it makes a pretty edging +for toilet cushions if worked in fine thread, and looks equally well for +trimming couvrettes, &c., in No. 2 thread. The netting is nine holes +wide, the stitches employed are point d'esprit and point de feston, the +edge is in button-hole stitch, the netted ground is cut away outside the +scallops. + +[Illustration: 522.--Lace Border in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +523.--_Square for D'Oyley_ + +Materials: Frame; 1 square of netting; Mecklenburg reel thread Nos. 8 +and 10; needle No. 6. + +[Illustration: 523.--Pattern of Square for D'Oyley.] + +This square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a d'oyley, or +pincushion. The three other corners of the square are worked exactly +like the one seen in illustration; the rosette in the centre is shown in +full size. The square is worked in point d'esprit, linen stitch, and +point de reprise. Each of the leaves of the foliage is worked in one +hole of the netting; they are worked by throwing the cotton three times +across the hole, and working darning stitch on them. The stem is worked +in overcast on the thread of the netting. The daisy in the centre is +worked like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of the +netting. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 524.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.] + +524 _and_ 525.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 for +couvrettes, No. 8 for pillow-cases, No. 16 for lace edgings. + +These corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small couvrettes; +the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch, darning stitch, +point de Bruxelles, and wheels. The edge is formed by button-hole +stitches. The netting is cut away after these are worked. + +[Illustration: 525.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +526.--_Strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art._ + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8. + +This strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in zigzag +lines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit and point de +toile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the triangle left by the +zigzag line. This pattern is so easy to work that it hardly needs +description, the only part requiring care being the squares of point de +feston; these are begun in the centre, and the thread should be drawn +rather tightly so as to form a good square. + +[Illustration: 526.--Pattern for a strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +527.--_Small Square_. + +Materials: Frame; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. +4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and No. 16 for the pattern. + +[Illustration: 527.--Small Square.] + +Work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of each +square, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in breadth. It +is embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit, and wheels. The +outer edge is worked round in button-hole stitch. Larger squares are +worked in the same manner, only a few rows larger in length and breadth. +The squares are fastened together with a few stitches, and sewn on the +pincushion or any article they are intended to ornament. + + * * * * * + +528.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8, or +16 for very fine work. + +This strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all kinds of +lingeries. The size of the material depends, of course, on the use to +be made of the insertion. The guipure pattern is worked in linen stitch +and point d'esprit, the raised leaves in darning stitch. The edges are +worked round with button-hole stitches. + +[Illustration: 528.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +529.--_Rosette in Guipure d'Art._ + +[Illustration: 529.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.] + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 6. + +This rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. A larger +wheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of overcast. + + * * * * * + +530.--_Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: One guipure frame; Mecklenburg thread Nos. 6 and 12; needle +No. 7. + +[Illustration: 530.--Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art.] + +This pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in guipure +d'art. The outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a border in +linen stitch. There are large stars in the corners; these stars are +worked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the netting at the +points of each brand; in the centre of the star there is a wheel (see +No. 515) edged with button-hole stitch. The pattern for the centre, one +quarter of which only is seen in the illustration, consists of 4 +branches forming small triangles in point de Bruxelles, 4 open-worked +stars or wheels worked over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branched +centre of point de feston with a wheel in the middle. + + * * * * * + +531 _and_ 532.--_Square Patterns in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s linen thread No. 2 for the +netting, and their Mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches No. 8. + +[Illustration: 531.--Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art.] + +No. 531. The outer border of this pretty square is worked in point +d'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a round of +small wheels or rosettes. + +For these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first square +stitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three other knots, +so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the centre point of the +cross, passing alternately under and over its branches, then twist the +cotton over the threads of the foundation until the next square is +reached, and begin another wheel. + +[Illustration: 532.--Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art.] + +The centre of No. 531 is composed of wheels and point de reprise; the +pattern round the centre is worked in point de feston, differing a +little from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the illustration +clearly shows the difference. + +No. 532 has similar borders to No. 531; the centre is occupied by a star +(see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels surround this; the +square stitches between are filled with small wheels and with groups of +long loops, fastened together in sheaves. Point d'esprit and point de +toile, worked one way only, complete this square. + + * * * * * + +533 _to_ 536.--_Four Patterns in Guipure d'Art_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 or 16, +according to the size of the work. + +These four patterns will be found useful for filling up small squares, +or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit. + +[Illustration: 533.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.] + +No. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half fill +each square of the netting. This pattern must be worked with great +regularity. + +[Illustration: 534.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.] + +No. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit. + +No. 535 is a thread twisted and taken _across_ each square, and +resembles lace stitches. + +[Illustration: 535.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.] + +No. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with point +d'esprit. This grounding is very effective. + +[Illustration: 536.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +537.--_Lace Border for Veils, &c_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 16; +strip of square netting of the required length; oblong frame. + +This simple border is easily and quickly worked. The edge is overcast, +the ground worked in point d'esprit, the border in point de toile, and +the pattern in point de reprise. When completed the netting is cut away +from the overcast edge. + +[Illustration: 537.--Lace Border for Veils, &c.] + + * * * * * + +538 _and_ 538_a_.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and +Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10 or 16, according to the fineness +required. + +[Illustration: 538.--Square in Guipure d'Art.] + +These squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or handkerchiefs. +They are worked on netting with very fine cotton in the usual manner, +beginning on two stitches in one corner The different stitches of the +guipure darning can be distinctly seen in illustration, and are point de +feston, point de reprise, point de toile, and point d'esprit on No. 538, +and the same stitches surround a wheel in No. 538_a_. + +[Illustration: 538_a_.--Square in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 539.--Guipure d'Art Insertion.] + +539.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 8 to +16; strip of netting length, required. + + +This insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in point +de feston. The ground in point d'esprit. + + * * * * * + +540 _and_ 541.--_Square in Guipure Point de Venise (Reticella)_ + +Materials: Coarse or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +Mecklenburg thread No. 4 or 12. + +[Illustration: 540.--Square in Point de Venise.] + +[Illustration: 541.--Quarter Square in Reticella Work (Enlarged).] + +This square is worked in the so-called point de Venise, together with +other squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions, &c. It is +worked on coarse or fine linen, according to the use you wish to make +of it. Prepare a square piece of linen, by drawing out long and cross +threads, so as to form perfect squares. In the pattern No. 540, which is +worked on fine linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long and +cross way; 8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threads +have been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form the +framework. Then fasten the piece of linen on cardboard, and work close +button-hole stitch round the inner edge Then work with darning stitch +over the long and cross threads of the ground. + +From No. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times larger +than full size, it is easy to see how the framework is darned. When the +latter is entirely darned, work the patterns in the different squares in +button-hole stitch. The circular and serpentine patterns consist of 3 +rows of button-hole stitch; the patterns which imitate whole rosettes +and half rosettes are worked in rows of button-hole stitch. For each row +the thread must be first drawn from one place to the other, as can be +seen in illustration, and fastened on the framework. The knots in the +last button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch when +completed, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through the +first completed knot. It is easy, however, to work all the patterns from +No. 541. The dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the direction of +the patterns which are wanting there. The square is edged all round with +an open-work hem, which can also be worked from No. 541. + + * * * * * + +542 _and_ 543.--_Corner Patterns in Guipure d'Art_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14. + +These patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs, &c. The +netted ground is to be worked from the corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and +work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of +every row. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, linen, and darning +stitch, as can be seen in illustration. + +[Illustration: 542 and 543--Corner Borders.] + + * * * * * + +544.--_Flower for Ornamenting Cravats and Caps in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Black or coloured silks, or Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +Mecklenburg thread No. 10. + +[Illustration: 544.--Flower in Guipure d'Art.] + +This pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse silk in +guipure d'art on netting. This pattern can also be worked with white +thread or black silk in point de reprise. + + * * * * * + +545.--_Work Basket with Covering of Darned Netting_. + +Materials: Bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting; Messrs. +Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 16. + +[Illustration: 545.--Work Basket Covered with Guipure d'Art.] + +This elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin, fastened on +cardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. The stand of varnished bamboo +is twelve inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and five and a half +inches high. The case inside is made of cardboard, covered on both sides +with blue satin, and the guipure d'art on the outside only. The stitches +used are point de toile, point de reprise, and point d'esprit. + + * * * * * + +546 _and_ 547.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12 or +20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness required. + +[Illustration: 546.--Square in Guipure d'Art.] + +Both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting lingerie, +cravats, collars, &c. Repeated at regular intervals on a larger centre, +they are likewise suitable for couvrettes, cushions, pillow-cases, &c.; +they are worked in darning and linen stitch. + +[Illustration: 547.--Square in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +548.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required length; +Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 12. + +This simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked at each +side of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of button-hole stitches being +worked between the rows. + +[Illustration: 549.--Guipure d'Art Insertion.] + + + * * * * * + +550 _and_ 551.--_Squares for Antimacassar_. + +Materials: Square of netting of 12 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's +Mecklenburg thread No. 8. + +[Illustration: 550.--Square for Antimacassar.] + +No. 550 is very quickly worked. The border and groundwork in point +d'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in point de +toile. Wheels fill in the four holes in the centre of the squares. + +No. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in point de +feston, the other stitches are point de toile. Wheels in part of star +pattern No. 518. + +[Illustration: 551.--Square for Antimacassar.] + + * * * * * + +552 _and_ 553.--_Borders in Guipure d'Art_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 16. + +These corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and, worked with +fine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. The netted ground of the borders +is to be worked in the size seen in illustration; for the border No. 553 +darn the ground in button-hole stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit, +and point de feston; the pattern No. 552 is worked in linen stitch and +point d'esprit; small wheels are also to be worked. Both borders are to +be worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut away +along the outside. + +[Illustration: 552.--Border in Guipure d'Art.] + +[Illustration: 553.--Border in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +554 _and_ 555.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20; +netted squares of 7 and 8 holes. + +[Illustration: 554.--Square in Guipure d'Art.] + +These two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats, lappets +for caps and lingeries. They are worked in darning and linen stitch. The +centre part of the square, No. 554, is a small wheel covered with raised +stitches. + +[Illustration: 555.--Square in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +556.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12. + +The centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well as the +border; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in the +centre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked. + +[Illustration: 556.--Square in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +557.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Strip of netting of 4 holes in width; Messrs. Walter Evans +and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12. + +The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit, square +wheels are worked in the centre of the strip. + +[Illustration: 557.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +558 _to_ 563.--_Different Strips of Insertion, Rosettes and Lace, in +Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg +thread Nos. 16 and 20. + +These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very suitable for +ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. The ground of insertion, Nos. 558 +and 560, is worked with fine white cotton over a fine steel +knitting-needle, in slanting netting, and darned with thread in the +manner seen in illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 rounds +wide, and worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned +patterns can be worked from illustration. + +[Illustration: 558.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.] + +[Illustration: 559.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 560.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.] + +For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine +knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st round +work 2 stitches in every stitch. In the 2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitches +in every increased stitch of the preceding round, and in every other +stitch 1 stitch. In the 6th round take a steel knitting-needle double +the size of the first, and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the +preceding round. Then work the 7th round over the fine needle as +follows:-- + +[Illustration: 561.--Border in Guipure d'Art.] + +Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first, and work +1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the first, and then +1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round work always 2 +stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed stitches, 1 stitch in all +the other stitches. Lastly, darn the rosette, from illustration, with +fine glazed cotton. + +For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563, cast on +6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then in the 1st +round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8 rounds 2 stitches +in every increased stitch, in all the other stitches 1 stitch. The last +(10th) round is worked without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, from +illustrations, with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point +d'esprit. The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole +stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These two +rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes. + +[Illustration: 562.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.] + +[Illustration: 563.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.] + +The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of straight +netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side, and worked +round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration. This ground is +darned, from No. 561, in darning stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch, +and ornamented with bars and wheels (See illustration). + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 564.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.] + +564 _and_ 565.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20 for +handkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes. + +These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes, &c., or +as strips of insertion for cushions or pillow-cases. They are worked with +more or less fine cotton, according to the use they are meant for. +They are edged round with button-hole stitch on the outside, and +finished off with a row of crochet purl. Work 1 double in every +button-hole stitch; after every other stitch draw out the loop on the +needle about one-tenth of an inch; take out the needle and leave the +loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last double stitch, and cast it off +with the next double stitch. + +[Illustration: 565.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +566.--_Jewel Case, forming Pincushion_. + +Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin and silk +cord; guipure netting. + +This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with satin, +and slightly quilted; it is also covered on the top with satin, and +ornamented all round with a satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide, +pleated in the manner seen in illustration. The top of the box is +stuffed so as to form a pincushion. It is then covered with guipure +d'art No. 567. Ornament all round with silk cords, and at the corners +with bows of satin ribbon. + +[Illustration: 566.--Jewel Case, with Pincushion.] + + * * * * * + +567.--_Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case_. + +Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +Mecklenburg thread No. 14. + +This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point +de reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced occasionally. + +[Illustration: 567.--Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case (No. 566).] + + * * * * * + +568.--_Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (Seepage 580.)_ + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20, and +cotton No. 80. + +For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our illustration +two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight strip of netting for +the foundation, which must count as many holes in width as are required +for the width of the covering. The size of the holes depends on the size +of the knitting-needle or mesh which you use. The pattern is worked with +cotton No. 80, over a steel knitting-needle which measures two-fifths of +an inch round. Begin the strip in one corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and +work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of +every row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holes +in width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same number +of stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the end of 1 row, +and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip is 250 stitches +long. The strip is finished off in a straight line at the bottom by +working a certain number of rows in which the last stitch remains +untouched. At the beginning of the row do not work 1 stitch ever the +mesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the preceding row, so that the +cotton is drawn on tight. When the strip is completed, trace from No. +568 the outlines for the pattern of each of the eight parts of the +parasol with double thread, in such a manner that two parts lie next to +each other, but reversed, that is, the point of one part must lie next +to the wide part of the next part. Then work in each part the pattern +seen in illustration, and afterwards each part round with button-hole +stitch, working over the double outline. Cut out the different parts, +and sew them together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 569.--Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art.] + +569.--_Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 18; +green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk cord. + +The size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. The netting must +be fastened in a frame, and darned with fine thread; the flowers are +worked in darning stitch, and the ground in point d'esprit. The cushion +is made of green satin, perfumed with poudre d'iris. When the netting +has been fastened on, it is edged all round with a green satin ruche, +and green silk cord, forming loops at every corner. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 570.--Square in Guipure d'Art.] + +570.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Netted square of 26 stitches; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s +Mecklenburg thread No. 12. + +This pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline of +point de reprise. This outline may be worked in close button-hole +stitch. Point de toile is used for the groundwork, upon which point de +reprise is worked. + + * * * * * + +571 _and_ 572.--_Work Case in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Blue satin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread +No. 16; blue silk cord. + +[Illustration: 571.--Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Back).] + +This little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five inches +and four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with a loop and +button. The back, front, side, and the flap are worked all in one piece. +The netting is worked with white thread No. 12, over a mesh measuring at +least two-fifths of an inch round. For the flap the netting must be +slanted off on both sides; this is done either by decreasings, or by +cutting off the corners of the work. The latter is then darned in linen +stitch, darning stitch, and point d'esprit, from No. 572, which shows +the front of the case, and from No. 571, which shows the back. The +netting is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sides +with button-hole stitches on the right side. The flap is edged with +button-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop to +correspond. The case is edged all round with blue silk cord. + +[Illustration: 572.--Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Front).] + + * * * * * + +573.--_Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread +No. 12; carved oak stand; glacé silk; cords; tassels. + +Banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from the +mantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration No. 573. The banner is +23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glacé silk, and +edged with a lace border of guipure d'art. The design for the banner is +given in page 554. Work the netting for the groundwork over a larger or +smaller mesh, according to the size you wish it to be. The pattern is +worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, and point de toile. When the + pattern is completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with a +gathered border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords and +tassels. The banner may be finished off in close button-hole stitch, +instead of adding the lace border. + +[Illustration: 573.--Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art.] + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 575.--Border in Guipure d'Art.] + +575.--_Border in Guipure d'Art_. + +Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8. + +This border is suited for couvrettes. It is worked in point d'esprit, +point de reprise, or plain darning stitch, edged by a row of +button-hole, and finished with a crochet edging. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 576.--Square in Guipure d'Art.] + +576.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_. + +Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12; +netted square of 20 holes. + +This pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de feston, +point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the centre as that +shown on page 514, omitting the alternate points; border of point +d'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars. + +Table of the right size of Mecklenburg thread to use in working:-- + +|----------------------------------|--------------| +| | No. | +|----------------------------------|--------------| +| Antimacassars | 2 | +| Borders | 4 | +| Handkerchiefs | 20 | +| Insertions | 8 | +| Lace edgings and insertions | 16 | +| Lamp shades | 16 | +| Parasol covers | 18 | +| Sachets | 12 | +| Sofa cushions | 8 | +| Toilet cushions | 10 | +| Toilet mats | 10 | +|----------------------------------|--------------| + + * * * * * + +FRAMES + +May be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares. + +Oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace edgings. + + * * * * * + + + + +BERLIN WORK + + +INSTRUCTIONS. + +Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon canvas with +wool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are common cross +stitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or velvet stitch, tent +stitch, and others. The materials and needle must always be carefully +chosen of a corresponding size. For common cross stitch and raised +stitch Penelope canvas must be used; for small articles, such as +slippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin wool is preferable; for larger +ones fleecy wool or double Berlin wool (the latter, however, is much +more expensive). For Gobelin stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas +(not Penelope) is required. Purse silk is often used for the latter; it +is more brilliant than floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generally +used for other stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas +better than purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle, +which is a much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Before +beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be hemmed or +sewn over with wool. Care must be taken not to crumple the canvas in +the course of the work. It is best to roll one end of the canvas upon a +round piece of deal while the other end is kept down upon the table with +a lead cushion. Handsome artistic patterns should always be worked in a +frame. When you undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre, +and complete one half before you commence the other. Always work the +stitches in the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very +essential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern. + +Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those colours +that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When the pattern is +finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be drawn too tightly, +otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If the wool is too coarse +for the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as far +as the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch, +cross back in the usual way. + +The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross stitch; +illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same. + +We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writing +and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used in +Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great in number nor too +simple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to become +Berlin workers. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 577.--Common Cross Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 577.--The common cross stitch is worked in rows backwards +and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of the +canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the +2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. Illustration +577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 578.--Long Cross Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like the +preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 579.--Long Cross Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like the +preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, and +in the next row the stitches are worked between those in the preceding +row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; each +stitch is completed before beginning the next. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 580.--Slanting Cross Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 580.--The long slanting cross stitch is worked like No. +578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd is +straight. The places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out are +marked on the illustration with a cross and dot. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 581.--Damask Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 581.--The damask stitch is worked in single rows from left +to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The stitches of one +row come between those of the next. The cross and dot shown in +illustration are where to insert and draw out the needle. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 582.--Rep Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the preceding. The +first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 in +width, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to left +over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completed +at once. The illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the first +half of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must be +inserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed +on illustration. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 583.--Leviathan Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 583.--The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1 +straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Each +stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half of the stitch +completed and the wool as it must be placed for working the first half +of the straight cross stitch. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 584.--Leviathan Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 584.--The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like the +preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in the +different rows, as may be seen from illustration. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 585.--Double Leviathan Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 585.--The double leviathan stitch is a variety of the +preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width. +Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long cross +stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. Illustration 585 +shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 586.--Tent Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 586.--Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1 stitch in +height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 587.--Slanting Gobelin Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 587.--The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on undivided +canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width, +divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 588.--Straight Gobelin Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 588.--The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threads +in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear more +raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool. + + * * * * * + +ILLUSTRATION 589.--The raised or velvet stitch is worked over small +round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2 similar meshes +and as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; make +first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common cross +stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the place +where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as to +form a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin to +work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in a +slanting direction underneath. On the wrong side of the work a regular +cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitch +completed and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on the +mesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the wool +upon the mesh. Observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are worked +upwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must not +be drawn out before the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open +if preferred. + +[Illustration: 589.--Raised or Velvet Stitch.] + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: 590.--Plaited Stitch.] + +ILLUSTRATION 590.--The plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bone +stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. +Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and the +place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is marked +by a dot. For the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threads +below the stitches of the preceding row. + + * * * * * + +ILLUSTRATION 591.--The plush stitch is also worked upwards. Begin to +work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvas +over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slanting +direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging down +about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitch +to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be worked over flat meshes. +Work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. When the work is +completed the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen from +illustration. + +[Illustration: 591.--Plush Stitch.] + + * * * * * + +ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.--Three Berlin wool work borders for trimming +baskets, &c. No. 592.--The 2 outer rows which edge the border are worked +in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre with +a back stitch. + +[Illustration: 592.--Berlin Work Border.] + +The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite each other, +which are formed of long straight stitches of different lengths. The +squares in the centre are formed in the same way, and are completed in +the middle with a knot. No. 593.--The ground is worked in cross stitch, +the raised patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there +is a cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2 +threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No. 594.--The +petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height and in width, +and consisting of 4 slanting stitches. + +[Illustration: 593--Berlin Work Border.] + +[Illustration: 594.--Berlin Work Border.] + +In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in cross +stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of scallops, +formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1 slanting stitch. +It is easy to work these stitches from illustration. The choice of +colours depends upon what use the border is intended for and upon +personal taste. + + * * * * * + + + + PLATES + + [Illustration: TATTED ANTIMACASSAR (see page 80).] + + [Illustration: 214--COUVRETTE IN APPLIQUÉ] + + [Illustration: 334--KNITTED TABLE COVER (_see page_ 347).] + + [Illustration: 337--KNITTED D'OYLEY (_see page_ 352).] + + [Illustration: 568.--PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART + (_see page 549_).] + + + + + INDEX. + + ACACIA SPRAY in embroidery, 162. + + Antimacassar, crochet, 276. + + Antimacassar in tatting, 65. + + Antimacassar, knitted, 318 to 320. + + Appliqué, pattern for a couvrette in, 213 to 215. + + Arm-chair, covered with crochet, 254. + + Arm-chair in crochet, patterns for, 255,256. + + + BABY'S BOOT, knitted, 326. + + Bag, crochet silk, over rings, 245. + + Banner screen in guipure d'art, 573, 574. + + BARS, POINT LACE. + + D'Alençon, 463. + + Point d'Angleterre, 467. + + Point de Venise, edged, 468. + + Point de Venise, dotted, 469. + + Raleigh, 471, 472. + + Sorrento, 461, 462. + + Sorrento, dotted, 469. + + Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466. + + Basket, small, crochet, 239. + + Basket, crochet, 272. + + Basket, crochet, 273. + + Basket, embroidered in chenille, 134. + + Bedford plaited lace (1851), 423. + + Bed-quilt, knitted border for, 327. + + BERLIN WOOL-WORK INSTRUCTIONS, p. 559. + Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594. + + BERLIN STITCHES. + + Common cross stitch, 577. + + Damask stitch, 581. + + Leviathan stitch, 583, 584. + + Leviathan double stitch, 585. + + Long cross stitch, 578, 579. + + Plaited stitch, 590. + + Plush stitch, 591. + + Raised or velvet stitch, 589. + + Rep stitch, 582. + + Slanting cross stitch, 580. + + Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587. + + Straight Gobelin stitch, 588. + + Tent stitch, 586. + + (Black lace) Buckingham point trolly (1851), 422. + + Bodice, knitted, 324, 325. + + Boot, baby's, knitted, 326 + + Borders, crochet, 252, 253 + + Border, embroidered, 150. + + Border for a reading-desk in embroidery, 204. + + Border for couvrettes, guipure d'art, 561. + + Borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art, 564, 565. + + Borders, guipure d'art, 552, 553, 557. + + Border, guipure d'art, 575. + + Border in crochet and tatting, 52. + + Border in Oriental embroidery, 179. + + Border in tatting and crochet, 6. + + Border in tatting and crochet, 15. + + Border in tatting and crochet, 22. + + Border in tatting and lace stitch, 44. + + Border in tatting, with beads, 13. + + Border in tatting, with crochet edging, 5. + + Border, knitted, 321. + + Border, tatting, 47. + + Borders, two crochet, 274, 275. + + Border, with beads, tatted, 13. + + Bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag, 169. + + Braces, embroidered, 202. + + Braces, knitted, 338. + + Brioche cushion in crochet, 249. + + Butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner, 212. + + + CAP, border for, in tatting, 38. + + Cap crown in tatting, 37. + + Cap in tatting, 38, 39. + + Chenille, basket embroidered in, 134. + + Cigar-case, embroidered, 190. + + Circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in tatting, 21. + + Circle in tatting, 12. + + Circle in tatting, 21. + + Circle in tatting, 57. + + Collar in tatting, 56. + + Collar in tatting and darned netting, 28. + + Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 49. + + Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 54. + + Collar, pine pattern, in tatting, 1. + + Collar, tatted, 55. + + Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 49. + + Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 54. + + Comforters, &c., knitting stitch for, 336. + + Convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery, 141. + + Corner borders in guipure d'art, 524, 525. + + Corner borders in guipure d'art, 542, 543. + + Corner borders in guipure d'art, 564, 565. + + Corner for handkerchief in point Russe embroidery, 149. + + Corner in embroidery, 151. + + Corner in embroidery, 152. + + Cotton, tatting, page 82. + + Couvrette, centre of a tatted, 25. + + Couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet, 250. + + Couvrette for arm-chair in crochet, 257. + + Couvrette in appliqué, embroidery, 147. + + Couvrette in crochet, 240 to 243. + + Couvrette in tatting, 25. + + Covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery, 138. + + Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 184. + + Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 185. + + Cravat in tatting, 50. + + Cravat end in embroidery, 136. + + Cravat end in embroidery, 153. + + Cravat end in raised embroidery, 156. + + Cravat end in tatting, 60. + + Cravat end in tatting, 62. + + Cravat end in tatting and darned netting, 64. + + Cravat end, oval, in tatting, 51. + + Cravat in muslin and tatting, 50. + + Cravat, muslin, embroidered, 153. + + Crochet, antimacassar in, 276. + + Crochet, arm-chair covered with, 254. + + Crochet, arm-chair, patterns for, 255, 256. + + Crochet bag, silk, over rings, 245. + + Crochet basket, small, 239. + + Crochet basket, 272. + + Crochet basket, 273. + + Crochet borders, 252, 253. + + Crochet borders, two, 274, 275. + + Crochet, brioche cushion, 249. + + Crochet, couvrette for arm-chair, 257. + + Crochet, couvrette in, 240 to 243. + + Crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in, 250. + + Crochet D'Oyleys in Imitation of Point Lace. + + No. 1, 262. + + No. 2, 263. + + No. 3, 264. + + No. 4, 265. + + No. 5, 266. + + No. 6, 267. + + No. 7, 268. + + No. 8, 269. + + No. 9, 270. + + No. 10, 271. + + Crochet garter, 285. + + Crochet, insertion, 258. + + Crochet, insertion, 259. + + Crochet, insertion, 260. + + Crochet, insertion, 277. + + Crochet, insertion, 283. + + Crochet, insertion, 284. + + CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS. + + Crochet hook, page 185. + + Foundation chain, double, 217. + + Foundation chain, plain, 216. + + Foundation chain, purl, 218. + + Spots, raised, 232. + + Spots, hollow, 233. + + Spots, open work, 234. + + Crochet, lace, 251. + + Crochet, lace, 261. + + Crochet, purse in, over rings, 248. + + Crochet rosettes, 280, 281. + + Crochet sovereign purse, 246. + + Crochet, star in, 244. + + Crochet, stars in, 247. + + CROCHET STITCHES. + + Cross stitch, 224. + + Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231. + + Double long treble stitch, 228. + + Double stitch, 220, 221. + + Long double stitch, 225. + + Long treble stitch, 227. + + Purl stitch, 236. + + Purl stitch, 237. + + Purl stitch, 238. + + Raised treble stitch, 235. + + Raised ribbed stitch, 222. + + Raised slanting stitch, 223. + + Slip stitch, 219. + + Treble stitch, 226. + + Crochet trimming for a lady's chemise, 286. + + Crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in + appliqué and velvet ribbon, 282. + + Crochet work, tobacco-pouch in, 278, 279. + + Crochet work, work-basket in straw and, 272, 273. + + Curtains, knitted pattern for, 339. + + + Daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette, 250. + + Dalecarlian lace, 419. + + Diamond in tatting, 20. + + Diamond in tatting, 36. + + Diamond in tatting, 53. + + Diamond in tatting, 59. + + Diamond netting, 306. + + Diamond tatting for collars, &c., 20. + + D'Oyleys, Crochet, in Imitation of Point Lace. + + No. 1, 262. + + No. 2, 263. + + No. 3, 264. + + No. 4, 265. + + No. 5, 266. + + No. 6, 267. + + No. 7, 268. + + No. 8, 269. + + No. 9, 270. + + No. 10, 271. + + D'Oyley, knitted, 337. + + + EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS, POINT LACE. + + Antwerp, 479. + + Point d'Angleterre, 477. + + Point de Bruxelles, 474, + + Point d'Espagne, 478. + + Point de Venise, 476. + + Sorrento, 475. + + Edging, embroidered, 178. + + Embroidered border, 204. + + Embroidered border, 150. + + Embroidered bouquet for travelling bag, 169. + + Embroidered braces, 202. + + Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 201. + + Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 203. + + Embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner, 212. + + Embroidered cigar-case, 190. + + Embroidered edging, 178. + + Embroidered handkerchief, 197. + + Embroidered hanging letter-case, 176. + + Embroidered in chenille, basket, 134. + + Embroidered key-bag, 182. + + Embroidered key-bag, 183. + + Embroidered knife-basket, 159. + + Embroidered knife-basket, 160. + + Embroidered lace insertion, 207. + + Embroidered lady's purse, 157. + + Embroidered letter-case, pattern for, 177. + + Embroidered linen collar, 193. + + Embroidered linen collar, 194. + + Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 166. + + Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 167. + + Embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for, 187. + + Embroidered slipper, on Java canvas, 208. + + Embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for, 209. + + Embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196. + + Embroidery, acacia spray in, 162. + + Embroidery and stitching, insertion in, 132. + + Embroidery, appliqué, couvrette in, 147. + + Embroidery border for a reading-desk, 204. + + Embroidery, border in Oriental, 179. + + Embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in, 141. + + Embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point Russe, 149. + + Embroidery, corner in, 151. + + Embroidery, corner in, 152. + + Embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in, 138. + + Embroidery, cravat end in, 136. + + Embroidery, cravat end in, 153. + + Embroidery, cravat end in raised, 156. + + Embroidery, fuchsia spray in, 161. + + Embroidery, glove-box in, 174. + + Embroidery, glove-box in, 175. + + Embroidery, handkerchief border in, 197. + + Embroidery, handkerchief in, 140. + + Embroidery, insertion in, 131. + + Embroidery, insertion in, 142. + + Embroidery, insertion in, 145. + + Embroidery, insertion in, 146. + + Embroidery, insertion in, 155. + + Embroidery, insertion in, 165. + + Embroidery, insertion in, 188. + + Embroidery, insertion in, 189. + + Embroidery, insertion in, 192. + + EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS, p. 83. + + Bead partly covered, 103. + + Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102. + + Bluebell, 113. + + Bluebell, inner part, 114. + + Bluebell, part of, 116. + + Borders, 118, 119. + + Ear of corn, 112. + + Flower, 115. + + Flower in satin stitch, 107. + + Flower appliquéd on net, 117, + + Heartsease, 110. + + Initials, 123 to 130. + + Insertions, 120 to 122. + + Leaf, 94. + + Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91. + + Leaf, raised, 92, 93. + + Leaf, raised, 95. + + Leaf, half of, 99. + + Leaf, centre of, 100. + + Raised embroidered leaf, 98. + + Raised flower, 111. + + Raised leaf, 96. + + Raised leaf, 97. + + Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91. + + Rose in satin stitch, 108. + + Rose, petal for, 109. + + Star, 106. + + Star in point de reprise, 105. + + Star in satin stitch, 104. + + STITCH, EMBROIDERY. + + Stitch, back, 70. + + Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 86, 87. + + Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85. + + Stitch, double overcast, 67. + + Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75. + + Stitch, ladder, 80, 81. + + Stitch, overcast, 68. + + Stitch, point croisé, 71, 72. + + Stitch, point de minute, 79. + + Stitch, point de plume, 78. + + STITCH, EMBROIDERY--_continued_. + + Stitch, satin, raised, 76, 77. + + Stitch, scallop, 66. + + Stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89. + + Stitch, slanting overcast, 89. + + Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 198. + + Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 199. + + Embroidery, medallion in point Russe, 210. + + Embroidery, medallion in point Russc, 211. + + EMBROIDERY, MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN. + + Embroidery, alphabet in coral stitch, 353. + + Embroidery, alphabet in floral, 361. + + Embroidery, alphabet in florid style, 356. + + Embroidery, alphabet in forget-me-nots, 352. + + Embroidery, alphabet, point d'or, 357. + + Embroidery, alphabet, raised satin stitch, 359. + + Embroidery, alphabet in satin stitch, 351. + + Embroidery, alphabet scalloped, 355. + + Embroidery, alphabet, small, 354. + + Embroidery, initials in, 366 to 417. + + Embroidery, monograms in, 366 to 417. + + Embroidery, names in, 362 to 418. + + Embroidery, sampler in, 360. + + Embroidery, star alphabet, capitals, 349. + + Embroidery, star alphabet, small, 350. + + Embroidery, white, alphabet in, 358. + + Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 135. + + Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 137. + + Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 184. + + Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 185. + + Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 133. + + Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 139. + + Embroidery, pattern for trimming lingeries in, 143, 144. + + Embroidery pattern for what-not (full size), 196. + + Embroidery, penwiper in, 186, 187. + + Embroidery, rose-leaf in, 173. + + Embroidery, sandwich-case in, 154. + + Embroidery stars, 137, 143, 144. + + Embroidery stars, 180, 181. + + Embroidery, table-napkin ring in, 158. + + Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 163. + + Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 164. + + Embroidery, travelling-bag in, 168. + + Embroidery, trimming in, for bodices, 170. + + Embroidery, Venetian border in, 206. + + Embroidery, Venetian, lappet or sash end in, 205. + + Embroidery, waste-paper basket in, 191. + + Embroidery, white, toilet-cushion cover in, 171, 172, 173. + + Embroidery, wing of bird, 172. + + Embroidery, work-bag in, 200. + + Embroidery, wreath in, for centre of pincushion or toilet-mat, 148. + + English netting, 308 + + + Fichu, netted, 315, 316. + + Flower in guipure d'art, 544. + + Frame for guipure d'art 503. + + Full-sized circle for embroidered pen-wiper, 187. + + Fuchsia spray in embroidery, 161. + + + Garter, crochet, 285. + + Glove-box in embroidery, 174. + + Glove-box in embroidery, 175. + + Gauge, knitting, 287. + + Guipure d'art. + + Guipure d'art, banner-screen in, 573, 574. + + Guipure d'art, border for couvrettes in, 561. + + Guipure d'art t, borders for handkerchief, corner, 564, 565. + + Guipure d'art, borders in, 552, 553, 557. + + Guipure d'art, border in, 575. + + Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 524, 525. + + Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 542, 543. + + Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 564, 565. + + Guipure d'art, flower in, 544. + + Guipure d'art, frame for, 503. + + Guipure d'art, insertion in, 521. + + Guipure d'art, insertion in, 526. + + Guipure d'art, insertion in, 528. + + Guipure d'art, insertion in, 539. + + Guipure d'art, insertion in, 548. + + Guipure d'art, insertion in, 558. + + Gaipure d'art, insertion in, 559. + + Guipure d'art, insertions, &c., in, 558 to 563. + + Guipure d'art, instructions in, p. 503. + + Guipure d'art jewel-case cover, 567. + + Guipure d'art, jewel-case covered in, 566. + + Guipure d'art, lace borders for veils in, 537. + + Guipure d'art, lace border in, 522. + + Guipure d'art, parasol-cover in, 568. + + Guipure d'art, quarter square in, 530. + + Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 529. + + Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 562, 563. + + Guipure d'art stitches. + + Grounding, 533 to 536. + + Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510. + + Point d'esprit, 504. + + Point de feston, 506. + + Point de reprise, 507, 508. + + Point de toile, 505. + + Stars, 516 to 520. + + Wheels, 511 to 515. + + Guipure d'art, scent-sachet in, 569. + + Guipure d'art, small squares, 527. + + Guipure d'art, squares for antimacassar, 550, 551. + + Guipure d'art, square for d'oyley in, 523. + + Guipure d'art, squares in, for dresses, 546, 547. + + Guipure d'art, square in, 531. + + Guipure d'art, square in, 532. + + Guipure d'art, square in, 556. + + Guipure d'art, squares in, 570, 576. + + Guipure d'art, squares in, 533 to 536. + + Guipure d'art, squares in, 538, 538a. + + Guipure d'art, squares in, 554, 555. + + (Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, 540. + + (Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, enlarged, 541. + + Guipure d'art, work-basket covered with, 545. + + Guipure d'art, work-case in, 571, 572. + + + Handkerchief border in embroidery, 197. + + Handkerchief in embroidery, 140. + + Hanging letter-case embroidered, 176. + + Honiton guipure lace, 424. + + + Insertion, crochet, 258. + + Insertion, crochet, 259. + + Insertion, crochet, 260. + + Insertion, crochet, 277. + + Insertion, crochet, 283. + + Insertion, crochet, 284. + + Insertion in embroidery, 131. + + Insertion in embroidery, 142. + + Insertion in embroidery, 145. + + Insertion in embroidery, 146. + + Insertion in embroidery, 155. + + Insertion in embroidery, 165. + + Insertion in embroidery, 188. + + Insertion in embroidery, 189. + + Insertion in embroidery, 192. + + Insertion in embroidery and stitching, 132. + + Insertion in guipure d art, 521. + + Insertion in guipure d'art, 526. + + Insertion in guipure d'art, 528. + + Insertion in guipure d'art, 539. + + Insertion in guipure d'art, 548. + + Insertion in guipure d'art, 558. + + Insertion in guipure d'art, 559. + + Insertions in guipure d'art, 558 to 563. + + Insertions in tatting, 2. + + Insertion in tatting, 7. + + Insertion in tatting, 11. + + Insertion in tatting, 14. + + Insertion in tatting, 24. + + Insertion in tatting, 31. + + Insertion in tatting, 32. + + Insertion in tatting and crochet, 41. + + Insertion in tatting and crochet, 43. + + Insertion in tatting and lace stitch, 23. + + Insertion in tatting for trimming lingeries, 11. + + Insertion, knitted, 340. + + Insertion, wide, tatting, 10. + + Insertion, wide, tatting, 14. + + Insertion, wide, tatting, 43. + + Insertion, worked in tatting, 10. + + INSTRUCTIONS IN BERLIN WOOL WORK, p. 559. + + Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594. + + Berlin stitches. + + Common cross stitch, 577. + + Damask stitch, 581. + + Leviathan stitch, 583, 584. + + Leviathan double stitch, 585. + + Long cross stitch, 578, 579. + + Plaited stitch, 590. + + Plush stitch, 591. + + Raised or velvet stitch, 589. + + Rep stitch, 582. + + Slanting cross stitch, 580. + + Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587. + + Straight Gobelin stitch, 588. + + Tent stitch, 586. + + INSTRUCTIONS IN CROCHET. + + Crochet hook, p. 185. + + Foundation chain, double, 217. + + Foundation chain, plain, 216. + + Foundation chain, purl, 218. + + Spots, raised, 232. + + Spots, hollow, 233. + + Spots, open work, 234. + + INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY. + + Bead partly covered, 103. + + Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102. + + Bluebell, 113. + + Bluebell, inner part, 114. + + Bluebell, part of, 116. + + Borders, 118, 119. + + Ear of corn, 112. + + Flower, 115. + + Flower in satin stitch, 107. + + Flower appliquéd on net, 117. + + Heartsease, 110. + + Initials, 123 to 130. + + Insertions, 120 to 122. + + Leaf, 94. + + Leaf, half of, 99. + + Leaf, centre of, 100. + + Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91. + + Leaf, raised, 92, 93. + + Leaf, raised, 95. + + Raised embroidered leaf, 98. + + Raised flower, 111. + + Raised leaf, 96. + + Raised leaf, 97. + + Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91. + + Rose in satin stitch, 108. + + Rose, petal for, 109. + + Star, 106. + + Star in point de reprise, 105. + + Star in satin stitch, 104. + + STITCH, EMBROIDERY. + + Stitch, back, 70. + + Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 85, 87. + + Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85. + + Stitch, double overcast, 67. + + Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75. + + Stitch, ladder, 80, 81. + + Stitch, overcast, 68. + + Stitch, point croisé, 71, 72. + + Stitch, point de minute, 79. + + Stitch, point de plume, 78. + + Stitch, satin raised, 76, 77. + + Stitch, scallop, 66. + + Stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89. + + Stitch, slanting overcast, 69. + + INSTRUCTIONS IN GUIPURE D'ART, p. 503. + + INSTRUCTIONS IN TATTING. + Joining the work, p. v. + Pin, tatting, p. ii. + Shuttles, tatting, pp. i, iii. + The way to hold the hands, p. iii. + The way to make a loop in tatting, p. iv. + The way to make a purl, p. v. + The way to make a stitch in tatting, p. iv. + + + JEWEL-CASE cover, guipure d'art, 567. + Jewel-case covered in guipure d'art, 566. + + + KEY-BAG, embroidered, 182. + + Key-bag, embroidered, 183. + + Knee-cap, knitted, 322. + + Knife-basket, embroidered, 159. + + Knife-basket, embroidered, 160. + + Knitted antimacassar, 318 to 320. + + Knitted baby's boot, 326. + + Knitted bodice, 324, 325. + + Knitted border, 321. + + Knitted border for bed-quilt, 327. + + Knitted braces, 338. + + Knitted comforters, pattern for, 336. + + Knitted counterpanes, pattern for, 313. + + Knitted cover for sofa-cushion, 341, 342. + + Knitted curtains, patterns for, 339. + + Knitted d'oyley, 337. + + Knitted insertion, 340. + + Knitted knee-cap, 322. + + Knitted neckerchief, 323. + + Knitted pattern, 345. + + Knitted pattern, with embroidery, 332. + + Knitted purse, lady's, 317. + + Knitted quilt, 328. + + Knitted shawl, 346 to 348. + + Knitted sleeping sock, 314. + + Knitted sock for a child, 312. + + Knitted table-cover, 333, 334. + + Knitted veil, 330, 331. + + Knitting cotton, table of sizes of, p. 368. + + Knitting gauge, 287. + + Knitting, looped, 335. + + Knitting, materials required for, 287. + + Knitting needles, 287. + + KNITTING ON, 287. + + Knitting, rosette for antimacassar in, 319. + + KNITTING STITCHES. + + Brioche stitch, 301. + + Casting off, 295. + + Casting on, 288. + + Decreasing, 293. + + Increasing, 292. + + Knitting on, 289. + + Knotted stitch, 299. + + Looped knitting, 335. + + Moss borders, 300. + + Peacock's tail pattern, 297. + + Picking up stitches, 296. + + Plain knitting, 290. + + Purling, 291. + + Round knitting, 294. + + Spiral stitch, 298. + + Knitting stitch for comforters, &c., 32. + + + LACE, Bedford plaited (1851), 423. + + (Lace, black), Buckingham point troll (1851), 422. + + Lace border for veils in guipure d'art 537. + + Lace border in guipure d'art, 522. + + Lace, crochet, 251. + + Lace, crochet, 261. + + Lace, Dalecarlian, 419. + + Lace, deep, in tatting, 27. + + Lace edging in tatting, 3. + + Lace edging in tatting, 4. + + Lace, Honiton guipure, 424. + + Lace insertion, embroidered, 207. + + Lace in tatting and crochet, 40. + + Lace, Mechlin (Queen Charlotte's), 4 + + Lace, netted, 309. + + Lace, netted, open, 310. + + Lace, old Mechlin, 420. + + LACE POINT. + + Braid, placing the, 442. + + Braids, 426 to 431. + + Cords, p. 453. + + Edgings, 474 to 479. + + General directions for working, pp. 453, 454. + + Materials required, p. 451. + + Modes of working dots and picots, 470, 473. + + Scissors for, 425. + + Threads, sizes of, p. 500. + + Lace, tatted, 26. + + Lace, tatted, 27. + + Lady's embroidered purse, 157. + + Lady's veil in net and tatting, 16, 17. + + Lappet or sash-end in. Venetian embroidery, 205. + + Linen collar embroidered, 193. + + Linen collar embroidered, 194. + + Linen tatting-bag, 46. + + Linen bag for tatting cotton, 30. + + Looped knitting, 335. + + + MATERIALS required fur knitting, 287. + + Materials required for netting. 302. + + Mechlin lace (Queen Charlotte's), 421. + + Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 198. + + Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 199. + + Medallion for trimming lingeries in tatting, 58. + + Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 210. + + Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 211. + + Medallion, tatting, 58. + + Mignardise and tatting, 29. + + MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN EMBROIDERY. + + Alphabet, coral stitch embroidery, 353. + + Alphabet, floral embroidery, 361. + + Alphabet, florid style of embroidery, 356. + + Alphabet, forget-me-nots (embroidered), 352. + + Alphabet, point d'or (embroidered), 357. + + Alphabet, raised satin stitch embroidery, 359. + + Alphabet, satin stitch (embroidered), 351. + + Alphabet, scalloped, in embroidery, 355. + + Alphabet, small, in embroidery, 354. + + Alphabet, star, capitals, in embroidery, 349. + + Alphabet, star, small, in embroidery, 350. + + Alphabet, white, embroidery, 358. + + Initials in embroidery, 366 to 417. + + Monograms in embroidery, 366 to 417. + + Names in embroidery, 362 to 418. + + Sampler in embroidery, 360. + + Muslin cravat, embroidered, 153. + + + Neckerchief, knitted, 323. + + Needle and mesh for netting, 302. + + Needles, knitting, 287. + + Netted fichu, 315, 316. + + Netted lace, 309. + + Netted nightcaps, 343, 344. + + Netted open lace, 310. + + Netted shell border, 311. + + Netting, 302. + + Netting, 303. + + NETTING STITCHES. + + Diamond, 306. + + English, 308. + + Bound, 305, 307. + + Square, 304. + + Netting, materials required for, 302. + + Netting needle and mesh, 302. + + Nightcaps, netted, 343, 344. + + + Old Mechlin lace, 420. + + ON KNITTING, 287. + + + Parasol-Cover in guipure d'art, 568. + + Patterns for arm-chair crochet borders, 255, 256. + + Pattern for a couvrette in appliqué, 213 to 215. + + Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 135. + + Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 137. + + Pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 184. + + Pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 185. + + Patterns, embroidery, for what-not (full size), 196. + + Pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 133. + + Pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 139. + + Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 201. + + Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 203. + + Pattern for embroidered letter-case, 177. + + Pattern for embroidered needle-book, 166. + Pattern for embroidered needle-book, 167. + + Pattern for knitted comforters, 336. + + Pattern for knitted counterpanes, 313. + + Pattern for trimming lingeries in embroidery, 143, 144. + + Patterns for veil in tatting, 18, 19. + + Pattern, knitted, 345. + + PATTERNS, POINT LACE. + + Alphabet, 502. + + Alphabet, description of, 500 to 502. + + Bars, d'Alençon and Sorrento, 494. + + Borders, 482, 483. + + Collars, 493, 496. + + Cravat end, 487. + + Design for point lace collar, lappets, &c., 490. + + Dress trimming, 492. + + Edgings, 488, 489. + + Handkerchief border, 485. + + Insertion (Limoges), 484. + + Lappet, 490. + + Lappet, 497. + + Letter __A in point lace, 500, 501. + + Medallion, 481. + + Oval for cravats, 491. + + Star, 480. + + Toilet cushion centre, 486. + + Wheels, close English, 495. + + Penwiper in embroidery, 186, 187. + + Point Lace. + + Braid, placing the, 442. + + Braids, 426 to 431. + + Cords, p. 453. + + Edgings, 474 to 479. + + General directions for working, 453, 454. + + Materials required, p. 451. + + Modes of working dots or picots, 470, 473. + + Scissors for, 425. + + Threads, sizes of, p. 500. + + Point Lace Bars. + + D'Alençon, 463. + + Point d'Angleterre, 467. + + Point de Venise, edged, 468. + + Point de Venise, dotted, 469. + + Raleigh, 471, 472. + + Sorrento, 461, 462. + + Sorrento, dotted, 469. + + Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466. + + Point lace edgings and purled edgings. + + Antwerp, 479. + + Point d'Angleterre, 477. + + Point do Bruxelles, 474. + + Point d'Espagne, 478. + + Point de Venise, 476. + + Sorrento, 475. + + Point lace patterns. + + Alphabet, 502. + + Alphabet, description of, 500, 502. + + Bars, d'Alençon and Sorrento, 494. + + Borders, 482, 483. + + Collars, 493, 496. + + Cravat end, 487. + + Design for point Lice collar, lappets, &c., 490. + + Dress trimming, 492. + + Edgings, 488, 489. + + Handkerchief border, 485. + + Insertion (Limoges), 484. + + Lappet, 490. + + Lappet, 497. + + Letter _A_ in point lace, 500, 501. + + Medallion, 481. + + Oval for cravats, 491. + + Star, 480. + + Toilet cushion centre, 486. + + Wheels, close English, 495. + + Point lace stitches. + + Brussels lace, 433, 434. + + Escalier lace, 454. + + Mechlin lace, 453. + + Point d'Angleterre, 444. + + Point d'Angleterre, enlarged, 445. + + Point d'Anvers, 498. + + Point d'Alençon, 442. + + Point d'Alençon, 443. + + Point Brabançon, 449. + + Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434. + + Point de Cordova, 447. + + Point d'Espagne, 437. + + Point d'Espagne; close, 438. + + Point d' Espagne, treble, 439. + + Point de fillet, 450. + + Point de fillet and point reprise, 451. + + Point de Grecque, 440, 499. + + Point de reprise. 448. + + Point de tulle, 452. + + Point Turque, 446. + + Point de Valenciennes, 441. + + Point de Venise, 435. + + Point de Venise, petit, 436. + + Spanish point, 455. + + Point lace wheel and rosettes. + + English, plain, 458. + + English, raised, 459. + + Mechlin, 453. + + Rosette for centres, 460. + + Sorrento, 456, 457. + + Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457. + + Point Russe stitch for embroidered slipper, 209. + + Purse, crochet sovereign, 246. + + Purse in crochet over rings, 248. + + Parse in tatting and beads, 42. + + Purse, knitted, 317. + + + Quarter-square in guipure d'art, 530. + + Quilt, knitted, 328. + + + Rose-leaf in embroidery, 173. + + Rosettes, crochet, 280, 281. + + Rosettes, embroidery and tatting, 48, 61, 63. + + Rosette for antimacassar in knitting, 319. + + Rosettes in guipure d'art, 529, 562, 563. + + Rosette in tatting, 8. + + Rosette in tatting, 34. + + Rosette in tatting, 35. + + Rosette in tatting, 45. + + Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 48. + + Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 61. + + Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 63. + + Round netting, 305, 307. + + + SANDWICH-CASE in embroidery, 154. + + Scent-sachet in guipure d'art, 569. + + Shawl, knitted, 346 to 348. + + Shell border, netted, 311. + + Sleeping sock, knitted, 314. + + Slipper, embroidered on Java canvas, 208. + + Sock, knitted, for a child, 312. + + Sofa-cushion, knitted cover for, 341, 342. + + Squares for antimacassar in guipure d'art, 550, 551. + + Square for d'oyley in guipure d art, 523. + + Square, guipure d'art, 531. + + Square, guipure d'art, 532. + + Square, guipure d'art, 556. + + Squares, guipure d'art, 570, 576. + + Squares in guipure d'art, 533 to 536. + + Squares in guipure d'art, 538, 538a. + + Squares in guipure d'art, 554, 555. + + Squares in guipure d'art for dresses, 546, 547. + + Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), 540. + + Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), enlarged, 541. + + Square in tatting for pincushion or couvrette, 33. + + Square netting, 304. + + Squares, small, in guipure d'art, 527. + + Star, crochet, 244. + + Stars in crochet, 247. + + Stars in embroidery, 137, 143, 144. + + Stars in embroidery, 180, 181. + + Star in tatting, 9. + + STITCHES, CROCHET. + + Cross stitch, 224. + + Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231. + + Double long treble stitch, 228. + + Double stitch, 220, 221. + + Long double stitch, 225. + + Long treble stitch, 227. + + Purl stitch, 236. + + Purl stitch, 237. + + Purl stitch, 238. + + Raised treble stitch, 235. + + Raised ribbed stitch, 222. + + Raised slanting stitch, 223. + + Slip stitch, 219. + + Treble stitch, 226. + + STITCHES, GUIPURE D'ART. + + Grounding, 533 to 536. + + Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510. + + Point d'esprit, 504. + + Point de feston, 506. + + Point de reprise, 507, 508. + + Point de toile, 505. + + Stars, 516 to 520. + + Wheels, 511 to 515. + + STITCHES, KNITTING. + + Brioche stitch, 301. + + Casting off, 295. + + Casting on, 288. + + Decreasing, 293. + + Increasing, 292. + + Knitting on, 289. + + Knotted stitch, 299. + + Looped knitting, 335. + + Moss borders, 300. + + Peacock-tail pattern, 297. + + Picking up stitches, 296. + + Plain, 290. + + Purling, 291. + + Round knitting, 294. + + Spiral stitch, 298. + + STITCHES, NETTING. + + Diamond, 306. + + English, 308. + + Round, 305, 307. + + Square, 304. + + STITCHES, POINT LACE. + + Brussels lace, 433, 434. + + Escalier lace, 454. + + Mechlin lace, 453. + + Point d'Alençon, 442. + + Point d'Alençon, 443. + + Point d'Angleterre, 444. + + Point d'Angleterre, enlarged, + + Point d'Anvers, 498. + + Point Brabançon, 449. + + Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434. + + Point de Cordova, 447. + + Point d'Espagne, 437. + + Point d'Espagne, close, 438. + + Point d'Espagne, treble, 439. + + Point de fillet, 450. + + Point de fillet and point reprise, 451. + + Point de Grecque, 440, 499. + + Point de reprise, 448. + + Point de tulle, 452. + + Point Turque, 446. + + Point de Valenciennes, 441, + + Point de Venise, 435. + + Point de Venise, petit, 436. + + Spanish point, 455. + + + TABLE-COVER, knitted, 333, 334. + + Table-napkin ring in embroidery, 153. + + Table of sizes of knitting cotton, p. 363. + + Tatting and beads, purse in, 42. + + Tatting and crochet, border in, 22. + + Tatting and crochet, border in, 52. + + Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 41. + + Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 43. + + Tatting and crochet, lace in, 40. + + Tatting and darned netting, collar in, 28. + + Tatting and darned netting, cravat-end in, 64. + + Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 48. + + Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 61. + + Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 63. + + Tatting and lace stitch, insertion in, 23. + + Tatting and mignardise, 29. + + Tatting and muslin, cravat in, 50. + + Tatting and net, lady's veil in, 16, 17. + + Tatting, antimacassar in, 65. + + Tatting-bag, linen, 46. + + Tatting, border, 47. + + Tatting, border for cap in. 6. + + Tatting, border in crochet and, 15. + + Tatting, border in crochet and, 22. + + Tatting, border in, with crochet edging, 5, 6. + + Tatting, border in lace stitch and, 44. + + Tatting, border, with beads, 13. + + Tatting, cap-crown in, 37. + + Tatting, cap in, 38, 39. + + Tatting, circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 21. + + Tatting, circle in, 12. + + Tatting, circle in, 21. + + Tatting, circle in, 57. + + Tatting, collar in, 55. + + Tatting, collar in, 56. + + Tatting, collar, pine pattern in, 1. + + Tatting-cotton, p. 82. + + Tatting-cotton, linen bag for, 30. + + Tatting, couvrette, centre of a, 25. + + Tatting, cravat-end in, 60. + + Tatting, cravat-end in, 62. + + Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51. + + Tatting, cravat in, 50. + + Tatting, deep border in crochet and, 52. + + Tatting, deep lace in, 27. + + Tatting, diamond in, 20. + + Tatting, diamond in. 36. + + Tatting, diamond in, 53. + + Tatting, diamond in, 59. + + Tatting, diamond, for collars, &c., 20. + + Tatting, insertion, 27. + + Tatting, insertion, 11. + + Tatting, insertion, 14. + + Tatting, insertion, 24. + + Tatting, insertion, 31. + + Tatting, insertion, 32. + + Tatting, insertion in, for trimming lingeries, 11. + + Tatting, insertion worked in, 10. + + TATTING INSTRUCTIONS. + + Joining the work, p. v. + + Pin, tatting, p. ii. + + Shuttles, tatting, pp. i, iii. + + The way to hold the hands, p. iii. + + The way to make aloop in tatting, p. iv. + + The way to make a purl, p. v. + + The way to make a stitch in tatting, p. iv. + + Tatting, lace, 26. + + Tatting, lace, 27. + + Tatting, lace edging in, 3. + + Tatting, lace edging in, 4. + + Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 49. + + Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 54. + + Tatting, medallion for trimming lingeries in, 58. + + Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51. + + Tatting, patterns for veils in, 18, 19. + + Tatting, rosette in, 8. + + Tatting, rosette in, 34. + + Tatting, rosette in, 35. + + Tatting, rosette in, 45. + + Tatting, square in, for pincushion or couvrette, 33. + + Tatting, star in, 9. + + Tatting, trimming for collar in, 49. + + Tatting, trimming for collar in, 54. + + Tatting, wide insertion in, 10. + + Tatting, wide insertion in, 14. + + Tatting, wide insertion in, 43. + + Tatting, with beads, border in, 13, + + Tobacco-pouch in crochet work, 278, 279. + + Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 163. + + Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 164. + + Toilet-cushion cover in white embroidery, 171, 172, 173. + + Travelling-bag in embroidery, 168. + + Trimming, crochet, with embroidered flowers + worked in appliqué and velvet ribbon, 282. + + Tramming for a lady's chemise, in crochet, 286. + + Trimming in embroidery for bodices, 170. + + + VEIL, knitted, 330, 331. + + Veil, lady's, in net and tatting, 16, 17. + + Veils, patterns for, in tatting, 19. + + Venetian border in embroidery, 206. + + + WASTE-PAPER basket in embroidery, 191. + + What-not, embroidered in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196. + + WHEELS AND ROSETTES, POINT LACE. + + English plain, 458. + + English raised, 459. + + Mechlin, 453. + + Rosette for centres, 460. + + Sorrento, 456, 457. + + Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457. + + Wing of bird in embroidery, 172. + + Work-bag in embroidery, 200. + + Work-basket covered with guipure d'art, 545. + + Work-basket in straw and silk crochet* work, 272, 273. + + Work-case in guipure d'art, 571, 572. + + Wreath in embroidery for centre of pin-cushion or toilet-mat, 148. + + * * * * * + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEETON'S BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK *** + +***** This file should be named 15147-8.txt or 15147-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various 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