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+Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Beeton's Book of Needlework
+
+Author: Isabella Beeton
+
+Release Date: February 22, 2005 [EBook #15147]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEETON'S BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julie Barkley and the PG Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  BEETON'S BOOK
+
+  OF
+
+  NEEDLEWORK.
+
+
+
+
+  CONSISTING OF
+
+  DESCRIPTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS,
+
+  ILLUSTRATED BY
+
+  SIX HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS,
+
+  OF TATTING PATTERNS.
+
+  CROCHET PATTERNS.
+
+  KNITTING PATTERNS.
+
+  NETTING PATTERNS.
+
+  EMBROIDERY PATTERNS.
+
+  POINT LACE PATTERNS.
+
+  GUIPURE D'ART.
+
+  BERLIN WORK.
+
+  MONOGRAMS.
+
+  INITIALS AND NAMES.
+
+  PILLOW LACE, AND LACE STITCHES.
+
+
+
+
+_Every Pattern and Stitch Described and Engraved with the utmost
+Accuracy, and the Exact Quantity of Material requisite for each Pattern
+stated._
+
+
+
+CHANCELLOR PRESS
+
+
+
+_Beeton's Book of Needlework_ was originally published in Great Britain
+in 1870 by Ward, Lock and Tyler.
+
+
+
+
+
+This facsimile edition published in Great
+
+Britain in 1986 by
+
+Chancellor Press
+
+59 Grosvenor Street London W 1
+
+
+
+
+
+Printed in Czechoslovakia 50617
+
+
+
+
+
+SAMUEL BUTLER'S PREFACE
+
+
+The Art of Needlework dates from the earliest record of the world's
+history, and has, also, from time immemorial been the support, comfort,
+or employment of women of every rank and age. Day by day, it increases
+its votaries, who enlarge and develop its various branches, so that any
+addition and assistance in teaching or learning Needlework will be
+welcomed by the Daughters of England, "wise of heart," who work
+diligently with their hands.
+
+The recent introduction of Point Lace has brought a finer, and,
+apparently, more difficult class of fancy work into general favour.
+Ladies may now, however, confidently commence, with our patterns before
+them, to reproduce Antique laces; for care and patience, with a
+knowledge of Point Lace stitches, are alone required to perfect the
+beautiful work, which, as shown in existing specimens of exquisite Old
+Lace, constitute the chief glory of women's refined industry in past
+centuries.
+
+INSTRUCTIONS in TATTING, in EMBROIDERY, in CROCHET, in KNITTING and
+NETTING, in BERLIN WOOL WORK, in POINT LACE, and GUIPURE D'ART are
+prefixed to the pages devoted to these separate branches of needlework.
+The whole work is interspersed with coloured and other Patterns in Point
+Lace, Guipure d'Art, Tatting, Embroidery, and Designs for Monograms and
+Initials for marking handkerchiefs and table-linen. The quantity of
+materials required for each class of work is also given with every
+pattern.
+
+The idea of combining a series of minute and exact instructions in fancy
+needlework with useful patterns was conceived some years ago by one
+whose life was devoted to the inculcation of the practical duties of
+woman's life, and to assisting her sex in their daily work of HOUSEHOLD
+MANAGEMENT and REFINEMENT.
+
+Her great wish was that her BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK should be as valuable in
+its way to her Countrywomen as her work upon Household Management was
+useful in showing the best mode of providing for the diurnal wants of
+families. Other hands have brought to a conclusion her original plans.
+The best attainable workers have contributed to this volume. Only those
+who knew the extent of the late Mrs. Beeton's design, will miss, in the
+pages now before them, "the touch of a vanished hand."
+
+S.O.B.
+
+_Paternoster Row,_ 1870.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+TATTING INSTRUCTIONS
+
+TATTING PATTERNS
+
+EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS
+
+EMBROIDERY PATTERNS
+
+CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS
+
+CROCHET PATTERNS
+
+KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS
+
+NETTING INSTRUCTIONS
+
+KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS
+
+ALPHABETS FOR MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS
+
+MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS
+
+POINT LACE WORK
+
+POINT LACE INSTRUCTIONS
+
+POINT LACE PATTERNS
+
+INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS IN GUIPURE D'ART
+
+BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS
+
+TATTING.
+
+
+
+
+TATTING
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS
+
+[Illustration: Tatting Shuttle.]
+
+The needlework called Tatting in England, _Frivolité_ in French, and
+_Frivolitäten_ in German, is a work which seems, from all accounts, to
+have been in favour several generations ago. Modern ingenuity has
+discovered some ways of improving on the original plan of tatting, which
+was, indeed, rather a primitive sort of business as first practised. To
+Mrs. Mee, one of our most accomplished _artistes_ in all matters
+connected with the work-table, belongs, we believe, the introduction of
+the plan of working from the reel instead of the shuttle. By this
+alteration the advantage of the shuttle being constantly kept filled
+with cotton was gained, and the necessity also obviated for frequently
+joining the thread; and to Mdlle. Riego, equally distinguished in all
+details appertaining to the employment of the needle, ladies are
+indebted for an arrangement by which the same thread used in the making
+of the pattern is used for fastening the work. The old plan only
+provided for the working of the different portions which constituted the
+pattern, and then these portions had to be sewn together with a needle
+and thread. The ingenious workers on the Continent have also given much
+attention of late to the art of tatting, and our instructions now
+printed comprise what we consider the best mode of learning and doing
+this exceedingly interesting and fashionable work.
+
+[Illustration: Tatting Pin.]
+
+Tatting differs entirely from crochet, and is composed of stitches
+forming _knots_. It is intended as an imitation of point lace, and is
+especially used for trimming under-linen, on account of its strength.
+
+To make the stitches or knots a small instrument is used, called a
+_shuttle_. This shuttle consists of two oval pieces, flat on one side
+and convex on the other, and is made of wood or ivory.
+
+The two oval pieces are joined together by a strong cross-piece. The
+illustration shows the construction of the shuttle. These shuttles are
+made in ivory, pearl, tortoiseshell inlaid with pearl, and silver; they
+are also manufactured in coloured bone, black, red, and white. The best
+to work with are the pearl for a white shuttle, and the inlaid
+tortoiseshell for a black shuttle; the prices vary from sixpence to one
+shilling and two-and-sixpence each. In selecting a shuttle be careful to
+see that the ends close, as if dropped it soon becomes unthreaded, which
+is very inconvenient. The cotton intended for the work is wound round
+this shuttle, and the thickness of the cotton varies according to the
+style of work. It is better to use the proper tatting cotton, because it
+is stronger than the ordinary kinds; this is manufactured by Messrs.
+Walter Evans and Co. for the purpose. Their Boar's Head Cotton is also
+frequently used, and answers very well.
+
+
+_Shuttles._
+
+These are made in 3 sizes:--Finest, No. 1; No. 2, useful medium size;
+No. 3, the largest.
+
+
+_The Way to Hold the Hands._
+
+Take the shuttle in the right hand, between the thumb and second finger,
+and allow the forefinger to remain at liberty, and rest the under part
+of the shuttle _between_ the second and third and _on_ the middle
+finger. Place the thread round the three middle fingers of the left
+hand, so as to form a loop, keeping the second and third fingers a
+little apart, and bring the cotton again between the thumb and
+forefinger, letting the end fall within the palm of the hand, while the
+end of cotton which holds on to the shuttle passes over the thumb-nail.
+
+
+_To Make a Stitch._
+
+Keep the hands in the position above described; pass the shuttle at the
+back, through the loop--that is, between the second and third fingers.
+Take the end of the shuttle which comes out from the loop between the
+forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and strain the cotton very
+tightly towards the right. When the cotton is drawn through the loop,
+this cotton must not be impeded by the fourth finger; it should, on the
+contrary, slide over it, and be drawn tight. It should divide the loop
+into two parts. After this withdraw the second left-hand finger, which
+is _above_ the cotton, and pass it again under that cotton, so as to
+draw up the loop. A _half-stitch_ is thus formed, and must be tightened
+by being drawn closely to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand. For
+the remaining half of the stitch keep the hands in the same position,
+but, instead of letting the cotton fall over the thumb, pass this cotton
+over the back of the hand; then let the shuttle fall between the second
+and third fingers of the left hand, in front, and take it out again at
+the back, strain the cotton very tightly, withdraw the second finger
+from the loop, letting the cotton which is behind the hand sweep over
+the fingers. When this is done, guide with the unoccupied fingers of the
+left hand this second half-stitch up to the other, thus completing _one
+stitch_.
+
+
+_The Way to Make a Loop in Tatting._
+
+When a certain number of stitches are made, very tightly draw in the
+loop by straining the cotton until the first stitch touches the last,
+and thus a loop is formed. During this process the stitches should be
+held tightly between the forefinger and thumb.
+
+
+_The Way to Make a Purl._
+
+A _purl_ is a small loop of cotton often used as an edging in tatting,
+as, for instance, round the outer edge of the ovals in tatted insertion
+No. 2. The following is the easiest method of making a purl:--The
+stitches are not made quite closely together at the place where a purl
+is to be made; about one-sixth of an inch is left between each. This
+space is left free until the loop is made by uniting the stitches; then
+the small piece of cotton in the space bulges out between the stitches,
+and forms the purl. If several are required a small space is left
+between every two or three stitches, according to the desired number.
+Care must be taken in that case that the small pieces of cotton left be
+all of the same length, so that the purl may be perfectly even. The purl
+can also be made thus: At the same time with the end of thread take the
+tatting-pin or a very large darning needle or knitting needle in the
+left hand, so that the point may come out farther than the row of
+stitches; if then you wish to make a purl, throw the cotton on the pin
+before making the stitch; then fasten this stitch, and push it at once
+close to the preceding; the pin with the cotton should come above the
+stitches. Do not take out the pin before all the purl and all the
+stitches are completed and joined together.
+
+
+_Joining the Work._
+
+Place the tatting-pin in the loop that is to be joined, and with the
+hook draw the thread of the loop--that is, round the hand through
+it--pass the shuttle through this loop, and draw it up tightly close to
+the stitches.
+
+A "straight" or double thread is used to join various parts of the work,
+and forms very beautiful patterns. Without the straight thread we
+should be unable to imitate point lace patterns, or, indeed, to execute
+any designs but those composed of circles, ovals, &c. To use this
+straight thread 2 shuttles are required; they should be of different
+colours. Sometimes one end of thread is left attached to the reel
+instead of using the second shuttle. In commencing a loop the straight
+thread is held between the second and third fingers of the left hand,
+about 2 or 3 inches from the work; the other shuttle is held as usual in
+the right hand, and the stitches and purls worked with it upon the
+foundation of the straight thread of the second shuttle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+TATTING.
+
+
+1.--_Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting._
+
+[Illustration: I.--Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting.]
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 80, or
+tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3; a small shuttle.
+
+This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton as follows:--1st
+circle: 2 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+2nd circle: 3 double, join it to the last purl of the 1st circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton up.
+
+3rd circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 2nd circle, 1
+double, join it to the 7th purl of the 2nd circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8
+times, 2 double, draw the cotton up.
+
+4th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 3rd circle, 3 double,
+1 purl, 1 double 7 times, 1 double, draw the cotton up.
+
+5th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 4th circle, 2 double,
+1 purl, 1 double 3 times, draw up the cotton.
+
+6th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 5th circle, 1
+double, join it to the 5th purl of the preceding circle, 1 double, 1
+purl 6 times, 1 double, join it to the first purl of the 1st circle, 2
+double, draw up the cotton. This completes the star pattern in centre of
+pine.
+
+1st circle of pine: 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 8 times, 2 double, draw
+up the cotton.
+
+2nd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 1st circle, 1 double,
+join it to the 7th purl of 1st circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 3
+double, draw up the cotton and join it to the 3rd purl of centre star.
+
+3rd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 2nd circle, 1 double, 1
+purl 8 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it on to the centre
+purl of 2nd circle in star.
+
+4th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 3rd circle, 1 double, 1
+purl 5 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it
+to the 5th purl of 2nd centre circle in star.
+
+5th circle: 2 double, join the cotton to the last purl of 4th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton, repeat the 5th
+circle twice more, then join the cotton to the centre purl of 4th circle
+in star.
+
+8th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 7th circle, 1 purl,1
+double 5 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the centre
+purl of 5th circle in star.
+
+9th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 8th circle, 1 double, 1
+purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. Repeat the 9th circle 3
+times.
+
+13th circle: 3 double, join the cotton to the last purl of the 12th
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 4 double, draw up the cotton, turn the
+work downwards, and work the
+
+14th circle: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, join it to the 1st purl of the
+1st circle of pine, 1 double, join it to the 2nd purl of first pine
+circle,1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+15th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 13th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+16th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 15th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 4 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+17th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 16th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+18th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 17th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 8 times, 1 double, draw up the cotton, and repeat from
+commencement until the collar is the required size. The upper part of
+the pines is filled in with lace stitches, as clearly shown in our
+illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+2.--_Tatted Insertion._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30, or
+Boar's Head crochet cotton No. 12; tatting pin No. 2; large shuttle.
+
+[Illustration: 2.--Tatted Insertion.]
+
+This insertion should be worked with coarse cotton. 5 double *, 1 purl,
+2 double, repeat from * 4 times, 1 purl, 5 double, draw up the cotton,
+turn the pattern downward, and work another circle the same as that
+above described, leaving one-sixth of an inch of cotton between each
+circle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+3.--_Lace Edging in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10, or
+tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a finer
+edging, No. 18.
+
+1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
+double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1
+purl, 10 double; draw up.
+
+Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
+hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
+
+[Illustration: 3.--Lace Edging in Tatting.]
+
+2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl in 1st oval, 10 double; draw up.
+
+The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that the
+next oval be close to the last.
+
+Crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 7 chain, 1 double into
+the purl in double thread. Repeat.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+4.--_Lace Edging in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10, or
+tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a finer
+edging, No. 18.
+
+[Illustration: 4.--Lace Edging in Tatting.]
+
+1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
+double thread is required, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1
+purl, 10 double stitches, draw up.
+
+2nd oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, 1 purl, 10 double; draw
+up.
+
+Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
+hand, work 12 double, 1 purl, 4 double; then join the shuttle-thread to
+the purl in 2nd oval, by drawing it through with a pin. Then do another
+similar chain of stitches with the double thread, viz., 4 double, 1
+purl, 12 double.
+
+3rd oval: 10 double, join to the purl in 2nd oval--the same as that to
+which the shuttle-thread has been fastened--10 double; draw up.
+
+4th oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval,
+10 double, draw up.
+
+The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that the
+next oval be close to the last. Crochet a heading with the same cotton,
+working 4 chain, 1 double into the purl of double thread, 6 chain, 1
+double into the next purl. Repeat.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+5.--_Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or
+crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2; a bone shuttle.
+
+[Illustration: 5.--Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging.]
+
+Work * 4 double stitches (that is, 4 times following 1 purled stitch and
+1 plain), 1 purl, four times following 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 4
+double stitches, draw up the cotton so as to form an oval, and for the
+smaller oval, work 9 double stitches, but leave, before beginning the
+first double stitch, the space of one-sixth of an inch between this oval
+and the preceding; repeat from *, leaving the same space between each
+oval; join together the larger ovals by the purl.
+
+For the crochet edging, work the 1st row in the following manner:--
+
+1 double (followed by 6 chain) in each of the smaller ovals. The 2nd and
+3rd rows are composed of short treble stitches, placed one above the
+other, and divided by one chain. While working the short treble stitches
+of the 3rd row form the small purl thus:--
+
+* 1 short treble in the first short treble of preceding row, let the
+loop slip off from the crochet needle, insert the needle in the under
+stitch, from which comes the loop now made into a purl, work 1 double in
+the first short treble of preceding row, 1 chain, under which miss 1
+stitch, and repeat from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+6.--_Border in Tatting with Crochet._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20, or
+tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2. For a coarser size use Boar's
+Head cotton No. 4, or tatting cotton No. 20.
+
+[Illustration: 6.--Border in Tatting with Crochet.]
+
+4 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 times following, 3 double stitches, 1 purl,
+4 double stitches, draw up the oval, but not quite tight, leave a space
+about one-sixth of an inch, leave a similar space between this oval and
+the next, work 3 double stitches, fasten them to the nearest purl of
+preceding oval, then work twice following 4 double stitches, 1 purl,
+then 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 3 double stitches, and draw up the oval
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+7.--_Tatted Insertion._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head crochet cotton No.
+18; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This strip of insertion is worked with crochet cotton, and consists of
+a row of circles, two of which are always joined together, and edged on
+either side with chain stitches. Work first * 2 double, 4 purl divided
+by 1 double, 1 double, 1 long purl about one-fifth of an inch long, 10
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 long purl, 4 times alternately 1 double, 1
+purl, then 2 double; join the stitches into a circle; work close to this
+a second circle, and knot the end of the cotton together with the cotton
+with which the first circle has been begun; repeat from *, but
+henceforward in the first of the two circles fasten the cotton on to the
+middle purl of the preceding circle, instead of working the middle purl.
+When the strip of insertion is sufficiently long, edge it on either side
+with a row of chain stitches, by working 1 double in 1 long purl and 5
+chain between.
+
+[Illustration: 7.--Tatted Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+8.--_Rosette in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This rosette is worked with two cottons, viz., 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain,
+5 double, 1 purl, 10 double, 1 purl, 1 plain; turn the work downwards,
+10 double, fastened on the last purl turned downwards; this forms one
+loop turned upwards; turn work downwards, 10 double, 1 purl, 5 double,
+fastened on first purl turned downwards; turn figure thus formed
+downwards; 4 double, 1 single, repeat 4 times more from *, joining the
+figures by means of the purl stitch; the ends of the cotton are knotted
+together.
+
+[Illustration: 8.--Rosette in Tatting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+9.--_Star in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 9.--Star in Tatting.]
+
+Fill the shuttle, and commencing a loop, work 1 double, then 1 purl and
+1 double 12 times, draw into a round; join the cotton to the 1st purl
+loop. 1st oval.--Commence a loop close to the joining, work 7 double,
+join to 1st purl of round, work 7 double and draw close; reverse the
+work. Join the thread from reel, and holding it out for a straight
+thread, commence the scallop:--
+
+5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, reverse the work. The 2nd oval same as
+first. Repeat oval and scallop alternately, until the star is completed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+10.--_Insertion worked in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 10.--Insertion worked in Tatting.]
+
+This strip of insertion is worked with two cottons. Work with the cotton
+in the left hand over that in the right hand. Both ends of cotton are
+fastened together at the beginning by a knot. First work one half of the
+insertion the long way in the following manner:--1 plain, 1 purl, 1
+plain (the purl must be very short); turn the purl downwards, 6 double,
+1 purl, * 6 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, which must all be turned upwards;
+then turn the work so that the upper edge is turned downwards; work 6
+double, fastened on to the last purl turned downwards (the fastening of
+the stitches is made with the thread in the right hand); a loop turned
+upwards is thus formed; turn the work downwards, draw the cotton in
+right hand underneath that in left hand, and work 6 double, 1 purl, 6
+double, all turned upwards; fasten these stitches on 1st purl turned
+downwards. In this pattern 1st of border pattern is thus completed;
+turn it downwards, 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, turn
+work downwards, 6 double, fastened on last purl of last pattern, turned
+up. Repeat from *. When the insertion is of sufficient length, work the
+other half in same manner, and fasten it on the 1st half by means of
+purl stitches between the 8 double stitches twice repeated.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+11.--_Tatted Insertion for Trimming Lingeries_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or
+crochet cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 11.--Tatted Insertion.]
+
+This insertion consists of 2 rows of three-branched patterns which lie
+opposite each other, and are joined by slanting rows of knots. A
+coloured silk ribbon is drawn through these rows which join the
+patterns. Each of the 3 branches of 1 pattern consists of 9 double, 1
+purl, 9 double, and must be worked close to another. When the 3rd branch
+is completed, fasten another piece of cotton on to the middle branch.
+Work 12 double over this 2nd piece of cotton, and then work without the
+2nd piece of cotton a 2nd three-branched pattern like the 1st.* Fasten
+the 2nd piece of cotton on to the middle branch of the just-finished
+pattern, work 12 double over it, then again a three-branched pattern;
+in this pattern as well as in the following ones, instead of working the
+purl of the 1st branch, fasten it on to the purl of the 3rd branch of
+the preceding three-branched pattern of the _same_ row, as can be seen
+in illustration. Repeat till the strip of insertion is sufficiently
+long.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+12.--_Circle in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 12.--Circle in Tatting.]
+
+Work first 8 ovals, each composed of 5 double stitches, 3 purl divided
+one from the other by 4 double stitches, 5 double stitches; these ovals
+are joined together by the purl at the sides, then the circle is
+tightened as much as possible, and the cotton with which you are working
+is twisted round the ends of cotton that have been cut: the cotton is
+then fastened off nearly underneath.
+
+Begin a fresh small oval, composed of 12 double stitches, which should
+be fastened to the preceding oval after 3 double stitches (to the purl
+in the centre of the first oval), then fasten it again to the purl which
+joins together the first and the second oval; leave a space of about
+one-fourth of an inch, and work an oval composed of 4 double stitches, 5
+purl, followed each by 2 double stitches, 4 double stitches. A very
+little farther off make a very small oval, composed of 8 double
+stitches, which after the four first double stitches is joined to the
+centre purl of the second oval, leaving the same space between as
+before, make another oval of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, each followed by
+2 double stitches, 4 double stitches; but the first purl is _missed_,
+because at this place the oval is joined to the fifth purl of the
+corresponding oval; once more leave a space of one-fourth of an inch,
+and repeat. At the end of the round the two ends of cotton are tied
+tightly together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+13.--_Tatted Border with Beads_.
+
+Materials: Black purse silk, or, for white trimming, Messrs. Walter
+Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 2; tatting-pin No. 3; 3 hanks of
+beads No. 4 to the yard of border.
+
+[Illustration: 13.--Tatted Border with Beads.]
+
+This border, edged with beads No. 4, is worked in middling-size purse
+silk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk. Before
+beginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take the place of
+purl stitches, and which are slipped in between two double stitches.
+When the row of stitches is of the length required, form the trefoil
+leaves, and sew a few beads over the places where they are joined. These
+trefoil leaves are made separately, and then sewn together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+14.--_Insertion in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
+tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18 or
+20.
+
+[Illustration: 14.--Insertion in Tatting.]
+
+1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
+double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1
+purl, 10 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: Putting the thread attached to
+the reel round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
+
+2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up.
+Repeat till the length required is worked, then cut off.
+
+For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the insertion,
+the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence by working--
+
+1st oval: 10 double, join to the purl which connects the first and
+second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Double
+thread: 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
+
+2nd oval: 10 double, join to the same purl as last--namely, the one
+connecting the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10
+double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two next ovals to the purl which
+connects the two next in the piece already worked, and so on.
+
+Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl of
+double thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only, this makes a
+pretty wide edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+15.--_Border in Tatting and Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, and
+crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 15.--Border in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops and
+treble stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as follows: Make a
+circle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8 double. This circle is
+repeated at a distance of about three-fourths of an inch, only instead
+of the 1st purl each following circle must be fastened on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which must
+be finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double
+stitches over the thread which joins the circles. The number of stitches
+depends on the length and size of the cotton; work double stitches round
+the circles at the place where both ends meet. The outer row consists of
+treble stitches, which are worked with 1 chain stitch between, missing 1
+stitch under each chain. The scallops consist of the two following
+rows:--1 double, with which the last and first purl of 2 circles are
+joined, 4 chain; in each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2
+double stitches.
+
+2nd row: 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1 double, 3 long double,
+1 double.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+16 _and_ 17.--_Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting_.
+
+[Illustration: 16.--Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting.]
+
+This veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim of the
+bonnet. It is tied at the back under the chignon. The veil is of black
+silk net. The flowrets are tatted with black purse silk, and worked in
+appliqué over the tulle. The veil is edged round with a tatted lace made
+with the same silk. For the patterns and lace and instructions, see
+Nos. 18 and 19. No. 16 shows the way in which the veil is worn upon the
+bonnet, and No. 17 shows its shape when stretched out.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+18 _and_ 19.--_Patterns in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 120 for a
+white veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 17.--Shape of Veil.]
+
+[Illustration: 18.--Tatting Pattern for Veil (16).]
+
+[Illustration: 19--Tatting Pattern for Veil (16).]
+
+The patterns Nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil No. 16.
+They are sewn upon the net at regular distances.
+
+For working the pattern No. 18, make with black silk or white cotton 6
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl, then join the
+stitch into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next purl. Then 1 spot
+or Josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain stitches, carry the shuttle
+downwards through the loop, and draw the stitches close together; repeat
+3 times more from *. Fasten the silk on to the next purl, and work a
+circle as follows:--8 times 2 double, divided by 1 purl; fasten the silk
+on to the next purl, work again 1 spot, after which the silk is
+fastened, then work 2 more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they are
+fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1st
+purl. Fasten off the silk after the last circle.
+
+For No. 19 work 25 double, divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a
+circle, knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together, cut off
+the ends at a short distance. Then work a smaller circle, consisting of
+8 double, divided by 1 purl; at the place of the 1st purl fasten the
+cotton at a short distance on to the 2nd purl of the large circle. The
+ends of this circle are knotted together and cut off in the same way.
+Then work a circle consisting of 11 double, fasten the silk on to the
+20th purl of the large circle, work 5 double, and join the stitches into
+a circle. Then take the ends of the 3 circles, and work close fine
+stitches with silk round them, so as to form the stem. The completed
+pattern is sewn upon the net.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+20 _and_ 21.--_Diamond Pattern and Circle in Tatting, for Trimming Linen
+Collars, Cuffs, &c_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No 30;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+20.--DIAMOND PATTERN.--Work, not far one from the other, four leaves,
+each composed of 5 double stitches, 7 rather long purl divided one from
+the other by 2 double stitches, 5 double stitches. Instead of making the
+1st purl in each of the 3 next leaves, fasten the cotton to the last
+leaf of preceding leaf. Fasten off and cut the cotton; begin a fresh
+circle by 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more
+double stitches; fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the four
+leaves, and work a very small circle thus:--2 double stitches, fasten
+the cotton to the last purl of the first circle, 3 double stitches, 1
+purl, 2 double stitches; fasten the cotton * to the 6th purl of the
+leaf; work a larger circle thus:--2 double stitches fastened to the purl
+of the small circle, 2 double stitches, 4 purl divided by 2 double
+stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the
+second purl of the second leaf; work another small circle similar to
+that above-described; fasten the cotton to the third purl of the second
+leaf, then to the fourth purl of the same leaf, and repeat from * three
+times more, always fastening the first purl of the first circle you are
+working (each time you repeat the pattern) to the purl of the last small
+circle last worked; fasten off and cut the cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 20.--Diamond in Tatting.]
+
+[Illustration: 21.--Circle in Tatting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+21.--CIRCLE.--Begin it in the centre by working a circle of 8 purl,
+rather long, divided one from the other by 2 double stitches. After you
+have fastened off and cut the cotton, work * one very small circle
+composed of 3 double stitches, 1 long purl, 3 double stitches; fasten
+the cotton not far off to the first purl of the circle, and repeat from
+* 7 times more, at regular distances. Fasten off and cut the cotton, and
+begin * a fresh circle of 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided each by 2
+double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl
+of the very small circle, and work, not far off, a circle of 2 double
+stitches, 2 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches;
+fasten the cotton to the purl of the next small circle, and repeat from
+* 7 times more. Instead of making the first purl of the next large
+circle, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the small circle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+22.--_Border in Tatting and Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 22.--Border in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+Begin this border with one of the smaller circles consisting of * 3
+double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; work a large circle at a
+short distance, 5 double, 4 times 1 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double;
+close to this circle another as follows:--5 double, fastened on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 5 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1
+purl, 5 double; a third circle as follows:--5 double fastened on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 3 times 2 double divided by 1 purl,
+1 purl, 5 double; the cotton is fastened a short distance further on to
+the second purl of the first worked small circle, which must be turned
+downwards; then turn the work so that the three circles which are joined
+together are turned downwards. Work another small circle as follows at
+the distance of two-fifths of an inch:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double,
+leave again an interval of about two-fifths of an inch, and repeat from
+* till the lace is long enough; but in working the following figures,
+consisting of three circles, the 1st circle must be fastened on to the
+last purl of the 3rd circle at the place of the 1st purl. Complete the
+tatting with the 2 following rows of crochet:--* 1 slip stitch in the
+purl of one of the small circles turned upwards, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch
+in the next purl, 4 chain; repeat from *. In the following row work 1
+double in every stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+23.--_Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 23.--Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch.]
+
+This insertion forms a very pretty standing-up collar when worked with
+fine cotton and a coloured ribbon drawn through. It consists of 2 rows
+of 3 branched figures turned opposite one another, which are worked
+separately and then joined into a row. Work 9 times as follows:--2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, * draw into a circle and * work at a short
+distance a 2nd circle as follows:--2 double fastened on to the last purl
+of the 1st circle, 8 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat once more
+from *, knot together the two ends of the cotton, and fasten them on the
+wrong side. One figure is thus completed; each following figure is
+fastened on to the preceding one on the middle purl of a circle (see
+illustration). When a sufficient number of such figures have been
+worked, work a 2nd row of them in the same manner, and fasten from
+illustration each middle circle of one figure on to the corresponding
+circle of the 1st row. The circles filled with lace stitch are worked
+when the 2 rows are completed from illustration in the empty places
+between 4 patterns; work first 3 double, fasten them on to a purl on the
+side of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double, fasten them on to a purl of
+the next leaf, repeat 5 times more from *, work 3 double, join the
+stitches into a circle, but not too close, so that the purls keep their
+natural position; cut off the cotton, and fasten the two ends on the
+wrong side. The lace stitch inside of these circles is worked with fine
+crochet cotton; the pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+24.--_Insertion in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+Begin by working separately a sufficient number of small rosettes, each
+composed of six ovals of double stitches and purl. These ovals are
+worked first in a straight row, then they are joined into a circle and
+united in the centre by button-hole stitches. The rosettes are joined
+together with fine cotton. The crochet border is then worked on either
+side in chain stitches and treble crochet, as seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 24.--Insertion in Tatting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+25.--_Centre of a Tatted Couvrette_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20, or
+crochet cotton No. 1; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+This illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full size,
+and measuring 12 inches across. Separate rosettes like the pattern may
+be joined together with smaller ones, and form a very pretty couvrette.
+The pattern is worked in rounds. Begin the rosette with a circle,
+consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4
+double. Take up another shuttle, and work over the cotton on it, fasten
+the end on the last double of the circle and work over it, beginning
+close to the circle, 6 plain, 1 circle like the 1st worked with the 1st
+shuttle, and which is fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at the
+place of the 1st purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately till
+you have 7 circles divided by 6 plain stitches. Draw up very tightly the
+cotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette, which is
+closed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of the first and
+last circle. Both the ends of the cotton over which you have worked are
+knotted together. For the 2nd round, fasten the cotton on one shuttle on
+the middle purl of a circle, work a circle like those of the 1st round,
+take up the 2nd shuttle, and work on exactly as in the 1st round, only
+work 8 plain between the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. The
+2nd round consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must be
+fastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of the
+preceding round. The 3rd and following rounds are worked in the same
+manner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the couvrette
+quite flat. In the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles. Fasten the
+cotton well after each round.
+
+[Illustration: 25.--Centre of a Tatted Couvrette.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+26.--_Tatted Lace_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+
+[Illustration: 26.--Tatted Lace.]
+
+This very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they were
+slightly gathered. It must be worked with tatting cotton. Each scallop
+consists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5 purled
+stitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the 1st and
+last stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd similar
+scallop at a short distance from the 1st. But in the following scallops
+fasten each to the last purl of the preceding scallop instead of working
+the 1st purl.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+27.--_Tatted Lace_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 or 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 27.--Tatted Lace.]
+
+This pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. Work with 2
+threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in the
+right hand. Work first the outer scallops of the lace
+
+Fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided by 1
+purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards, fasten the
+cotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back over the same
+row, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you work, 9 double
+divided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which you work on the next
+purl of the 1st row after every double stitch. This forms 1 scallop. *
+Turn the work downwards (that is, the purl stitch must be turned
+downwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1 purled stitch: this is the
+straight row between 2 outer scallops of the lace. Then work a scallop
+like the preceding one, fastening it from illustration after the first
+row on the middle one of the 9 outer purl of the preceding scallop, with
+the cotton over which you work; repeat from * till the lace is long
+enough, and fasten the cotton. Knot both ends together again, fasten the
+cotton over which you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make
+9 double, 1 short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the row
+is turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2
+middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing the
+cotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as to form a
+loop, draw the cotton over which you work through this loop and draw up
+the latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on to
+the short purl worked after 9 double, turn the work so that the outer
+scallops of the lace are turned downwards, 10 double, fasten the cotton
+over which you work on the first purl of the next scallop, repeat from
+*, and fasten the cotton. After having fastened both ends together
+again, turn the work the right side upwards and the outer scallops
+upwards also, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl
+which is under the first loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2
+double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the purl under the
+next loop, and repeat from * till the lace is completed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+28.--_Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s French embroidery
+cotton No. 60; square netting.
+
+[Illustration: 28.--Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting]
+
+The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted grounding over a
+mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The collar is ornamented
+round the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work a straight strip of
+netting for the grounding; begin with 2 stitches, work 18 rows backwards
+and forwards, increasing 1 at the end of each row, so that the last row
+has 19 holes; work 1 row without increasing; then continue to work with
+the same number of stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and
+decreasing 1 at the end of the other. When the strip is sufficiently
+long, work 1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form
+the side by making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each,
+cast off the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on
+the needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick
+cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning is
+completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6
+double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6 double,
+draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving one-fifth of an inch
+between the first and last stitch; work a second scallop at a short
+distance from the first, and so on; every scallop is fastened on to the
+preceding one after the first 3 double stitches. Work a row of double
+overcast stitch between the darned netting and the tatted lace; work
+this row over the cotton tracing, marking the outline of the collar on
+the grounding and over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work also
+a row of double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a
+little if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close to the
+row of overcast stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+29.--_Mignardise and Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; fine
+mignardise braid.
+
+[Illustration: 29.--Mignardise and Tatting.]
+
+Patterns formed of mignardise and tatting are of quite new style, and
+look very pretty. The insertion is easy to work by the following
+process:--Make first a circle, as follows: 1 plain stitch, 2 double, 1
+purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 plain; fasten the cotton on to one
+side of the mignardise, at the distance of about five-eighths of an
+inch, by taking 2 loops of it together; work a second circle at a short
+distance from the first, and so on. When the strip of insertion is
+sufficiently long, work in the same manner on the other side of the
+mignardise. This kind of work is destined to become very popular, and
+nothing can be more light and graceful than the union of mignardise and
+tatting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+30.--_Linen Bag for Cotton_.
+
+Materials: Fine linen, 6 inches square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+tatting cotton No. 40.
+
+[Illustration: 30.--Linen Bag for Cotton.]
+
+The bag seen in illustration No. 30 is meant to keep the cotton for
+working a couvrette; it consists of a round piece, measuring 6 inches
+across, which is hemmed all round, and trimmed with a tatted lace. It is
+drawn together at top.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+31.--_Tatting Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.
+
+The insertion shown in illustration No. 31 is composed in two similar
+halves. Begin the first in the following way:--10 double, 1 purl, 3
+double, 1 purl, 10 double, join the stitches into a circle, and work a
+second similar circle at a distance of one-third of an inch; instead of
+the 1st purl, draw the cotton through the 2nd purl of the first-worked
+circle; leave an interval of one-eighth of an inch, and repeat the two
+rounds till the insertion is sufficiently long. Then tat round the
+pieces of cotton which join the two rounds, work round the longest 10
+double, and round the shortest 4 double, inserting the shuttle
+alternately once upwards and once downwards, but for the rest proceeding
+as in the common button-hole stitch. When the first half is completed,
+work the second in the same way, and fasten it on to the first with the
+purl.
+
+[Illustration: 31.--Tatting Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+32.--_Tatting Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.
+
+[Illustration: 32.--Tatting Insertion.]
+
+The pretty effect of the insertion shown in illustration No. 32 is
+obtained by means of longer and shorter purl. Work as follows:--Join 9
+double into a circle, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double *.
+After an interval of five-eighths of an inch, begin the large figure of
+the pattern: 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, draw the cotton through
+the last purl of the small circle, 2 double, drawn through the 1st purl
+of the same circle, 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, 1 long purl, 2
+double, 1 small purl, 2 double, repeat 6 times more from *, and draw up.
+After an interval of five-eighths of an inch comes another small circle:
+4 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the large figure, 3
+double, draw the cotton through the next long purl of the same figure, 2
+double, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double. Repeat the pattern
+for the length of insertion required. The threads which join the small
+circles are worked over with 7 double in the manner described above,
+only the cotton at the principal figure must be left loose the width of
+a straw, so as to imitate a long purl. Complete the insertion from
+illustration by tatting round the small circles of 16 double on the
+other side (but in the contrary direction), form no purl, but draw the
+cotton through the long purl of the large figure; the threads which join
+the 2 circles are likewise drawn through the middle long purl of the
+large figure; this thread is then tatted over with 7 double, like the
+opposite outer edge.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+33.--_Tatted Square or Diamond_.
+
+Materials: If for couvrettes, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting
+cotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 4; tatting-pin No. 3. For d'oyleys,
+tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2. For headdresses, tatting
+cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+The square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked in 3
+rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with purl. Each
+pattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and each branch
+consists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4 branches of one
+pattern are completed, cut off the cotton, and fasten both ends
+together so as to form a small circle in the centre. Then work a second
+pattern, which is fastened on to the first and second branches of the
+first pattern, instead of working the purl stitch; work a third pattern,
+which is fastened in the same manner on to the second pattern. Then work
+2 more rows exactly the same as can be seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 33.--Tatted Square.]
+
+*For the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first purl of
+the first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double,
+draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton again on to the same purl
+of the first pattern *, and work the following scallop at a short
+distance:--4 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle,
+10 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitch, leaving an
+interval of two-fifths of an inch between the first and the last; fasten
+the cotton on to the next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twice
+more from *, and continue to repeat from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+34.--_Tatted Rosette_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or
+crochet cotton No. 60.
+
+[Illustration: 34.--Tatted Rosette.]
+
+This rosette is very pretty for trimming _lingeries_; it is worked with
+very fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the centre and work one
+circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 1 purled stitch.
+Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and work the 2nd round: 1 small
+circle, consisting of 6 double divided by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton on
+to the next purl of the middle circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round:
+Fasten the cotton on the middle purl of the first circle of the
+preceding round, * work at a short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl,
+join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance
+on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and
+repeat in rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+35.--_Rosette in Tatting_.
+
+[Illustration: 35.--Rosette in Tatting.]
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8 times
+alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle
+and fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work over the cotton on
+this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton together * and work 5 plain,
+fasten the cotton over which you work on a purl of the circle which is
+completed, and which must be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7
+times more from *, and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of the
+shuttles the small circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a
+purl of the second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1
+purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second
+round, work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the
+same distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton
+neatly.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+36.--_Diamond in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 36.--Diamond in Tatting.]
+
+This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &c., when worked
+with fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns separately, as
+follows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 6 double, join the
+stitches into a circle, work close to this circle a second one
+consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle, 4
+double, 2 purl divided by 4 double, 6 double; then a 3rd circle
+consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding
+circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3 double, 7 double. Take a second
+shuttle, fasten the cotton on the end of the cotton of the 1st circle,
+throw the cotton of the 1st shuttle over the fingers of the left hand,
+and work with this cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the
+right hand. Work 5 double, and then one circle as follows with the
+cotton in the left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the
+3rd of the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5
+double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the cotton
+on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double, 5 double,
+then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 4
+double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on 1st purl of the
+circle worked at the beginning, 8 double; then again with two shuttles 5
+double. Fasten the cotton on the piece of cotton before the 5 double
+worked with two shuttles, so that the stitches worked over two shuttles
+form a circle, and cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns have
+been worked, work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4
+leaves touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3
+double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf is
+fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl. Then work
+first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with which the corner
+patterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl of one corner
+pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on the corresponding
+purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1 purl, 7 double, join
+the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton on to the same purl to
+which the cotton has already been fastened, carry the latter on to the
+next purl of the same corner pattern, fasten it, then work three more
+circles like the first, which are fastened on to each preceding circle,
+at the place of the first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl
+of the centre pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side
+of the same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite
+direction are worked in the same manner. When the square is completed,
+draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on to the other
+side of the square along the cotton which joins the circles together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+37.--_Tatting for Cap Crown_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
+tatting-pin No. 1.
+
+[Illustration: 37.--Tatting for Cap Crown.]
+
+This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one
+described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &c. The size
+of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the pattern. The
+pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It consists of
+eight-branched rosettes joined together with small circles. Each rosette
+is worked as follows: Work 8 loops or branches close to each other,
+consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; fasten both ends of the
+cotton together, and cut them off. Each of the small circles which joins
+the rosettes together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double.
+It is easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined
+together by means of the purl stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+38 _and_ 39.--_Cap in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100
+tatting-pin No. 1.
+
+[Illustration: 38.--Cap in Tatting.]
+
+This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged all
+round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also. The cap
+is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue velvet. A narrow
+velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight open-work edge of the lace,
+as can be seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 39--Border for Cap No. 38.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 39.--Border for Cap.--The upper part of the border consists of 4
+rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an inch from
+each other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3 double, 3 purl
+divided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3 rows each circle is
+fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2 circles in the 1st row, instead
+of working the middle purl, the cotton between 2 circles in the last row
+must only be two-fifths of an inch long. Then work a certain number of
+six-branched rosettes, each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9
+double. Each rosette is fastened on to every other circle of the
+
+1st row, as can be seen in illustration. The border is completed as
+follows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch
+fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain, 6
+purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the lace
+so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on to the
+purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double, 7 purl
+divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the purl of the
+next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double;
+fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat once more from *, work 1
+double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, and repeat from * to the
+end of the lace.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+40.--_Lace in Tatting and Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60.
+
+[Illustration: 40.--Lace in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of the
+tatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the circles must
+be drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4 double, 8 purl
+divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle a second one; 5
+double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 8 times 2
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl
+
+5 double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first, but
+instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of the
+preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and repeat from
+* till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is worked in crochet.
+Take the fine crochet cotton and work the straight row at the top to
+join the patterns together. Crochet 1 double in the 3 first and last
+purl of the first and last circle of one pattern, then a sufficient
+number of double stitches under the piece of cotton which joins 2
+circles. At the place where the circles are drawn together, join the two
+pieces of cotton (the beginning and the end) in such a manner that the
+top of the lace forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd row
+consists of 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble.
+Then work on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches
+divided by chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of
+the circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st
+circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble,
+3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st treble only
+so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd treble is
+completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain, 5 treble
+divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following purl, which are
+cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2 treble divided by 3
+chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain, 1 long treble with which
+you must join the last purl and the first one of the next pattern, 1
+chain; repeat from *. The next row consists of small scallops worked
+round the chain stitch scallops of the preceding row; work in each 1
+double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1 double in the first and last chain stitch
+of every pattern.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+41.--_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet
+cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 41.--Insertion in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+Begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. Work with the cotton
+on one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the following
+manner:--Knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double divided
+by a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st and 3rd purl
+must be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one two-fifths of an inch;
+4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1 purl two-fifths of an inch
+long; repeat from * till the strip of insertion is sufficiently long.
+Then work a similar row of tatting, and join the two rows before working
+the 1 long purl, by fastening the cotton on the corresponding long purl
+of the 1st row, so that the 2 rows are joined closely together, and the
+purl stitches of either are turned outwards. At the top and bottom of
+the tatting work the 3 following rows of crochet:--* 1 double in the
+middle one of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3
+following long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd
+row. 8 double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of the
+preceding row under 3 chain. The 3rd row consists of treble stitches in
+every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Lastly, the leaves are
+worked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long purl of a
+pattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross stitches
+between the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine cotton.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+42.--_Purse in Tatting and Beads_.
+
+Materials: Grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glacé silk; a steel
+clasp with chain.
+
+This purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. The beads are
+threaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over another piece of
+the same. Begin each of the second halves of the purse with the circle
+in the centre, which consists of 1 purled stitch, 1 purl (all the purl
+of this circle are three-tenths of an inch long, and are covered with
+six beads, which must be drawn up close together before working the
+purl), 12 double divided by 1 purl. Join the stitches into a circle by
+knotting together the two ends of the silk.
+
+2nd round: Begin again and work one of the small circles; * 2 double,
+draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl without beads, 2
+double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten the silk on the purl of the
+middle circle, so as to let it come between the 3rd and 4th bead of the
+6 beads on that purl; 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short
+purl, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, join the stitches into a
+circle, draw up 2 beads; work a larger circle without fastening the silk
+belonging to the smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1
+purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl,
+3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1
+bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large circle
+and repeat from *. Each following small circle must be fastened on the
+next purl of the circle which forms the centre; they are also fastened
+on to each other, instead of working the 1st purl, by fastening the
+piece of silk over which you work on the preceding small circle; in the
+larger circles, instead of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the piece
+of silk must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, so
+that it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. At the end of the round,
+the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off.
+
+[Illustration: 42.--Purse in Tatting and Beads.]
+
+3rd round: * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 3
+double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the middle purl of the
+1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1
+double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; join
+the stitches into a circle, and work at a short distance a 2nd circle; 3
+double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fastened on the last purl of the
+just-finished circle of this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1
+double fastened on the purl of the preceding round which is between 2
+circles; the loop must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead after
+each; 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1
+double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *, then
+fasten the ends.
+
+When two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet glacé
+silk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew on the clasp. A
+round of large circles edges the purse round the outside. The 1st of
+these circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl
+with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double. Work a 2nd circle
+at a short distance from the 1st: * 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1
+double fastened on the purl of the 1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1
+bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after
+each, 1 double; leave a short interval, and repeat from * till a
+sufficient number of circles have been made. The last purl is not worked
+in the last circle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+43.--_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet
+cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 43.--Insertion in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+This pattern is composed of leaves and flowers. Each of the six leaves
+forming a circle is composed of 4 double, 2 purl, separated by 2 double,
+4 double (the first and last purl of each leaf must be joined in the
+manner before explained), and the centre of each circle forms a wheel.
+The flower has four leaves: each leaf consists of 6 double, II purl,
+separated each by 1 double, and again 6 double; each leaf is filled up
+with button-hole stitches in fine cotton. To form the circle in the
+centre of this flower, turn several times the thread which joins the
+leaves, and work button-hole stitches round it. Join the flowers and the
+circles by knotting them together, or by making 1 purl longer than the
+others, and by drawing the next figure through. The crochet border on
+each side of the tatting consists of six rows, which are plainly seen in
+the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+44.--_Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20 and 40.
+
+[Illustration: 44.--Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch.]
+
+This mixture of tatting and lace stitch is a style of work not only
+entirely new, but very pretty and effective when cotton of very
+different sizes is used. The tatting is begun with a row of circles
+two-thirds of an inch distant from each other; each circle consists of
+13 stitches of plain tatting. Fasten a 2nd row to the 1st, and a 3rd to
+the 2nd, by working a circle of 13 stitches of plain tatting at
+one-third of an inch distance, * then at the same distance; fasten the
+cotton on the next circle of the preceding row, work a circle at the
+same distance again, and repeat from *. The cotton is fastened on the
+circles by drawing it through the circle with a crochet-needle, so as to
+form a loop, and then drawing it out of the loop. Take care to keep the
+distance between 2 circles always the same. Between the circles of the
+3rd row draw another piece of cotton, by fastening the cotton on each
+circle of the 3rd row at distances of two-thirds of an inch. Then work
+the lower edge of the border in the following way:--1 small spot called
+a _Josephine knot_ (for which work 5 stitches of plain tatting, draw the
+cotton downwards through the loop which fastens the stitches, and draw
+up the whole), fasten the cotton between the next two circles of the 3rd
+row, * and a little further make a spot consisting of 8 stitches of
+single tatting, close to this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purl
+divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plain
+tatting, turn the 2 last spots so as to make their round sides come
+opposite one another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 next
+circles of the 3rd row. Then a little further off work 1 small spot (5
+stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double
+fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl
+divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plain
+stitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of the
+3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to the
+corresponding purl of the preceding one. On the other long side, the
+border is completed by 2 rows of crochet. The 1st row is formed by
+working 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2 circles of the 1st
+row, with 5 chain stitches between.
+
+2nd row: 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch after every
+treble. The strip of insertion is then tacked on a piece of cardboard or
+oil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked between the circles, as is
+seen in illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+45.--_Tatted Rosette._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30 for
+large rosette, No. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie--cravats, caps,
+handkerchiefs, &c. The raised pattern in the centre consists of 4
+rounds, consisting of 5 circles each, which are sewn together and then
+fastened on the rosette. The 5 circles of each round must be worked
+close to each other: after working the last circle of each round, knot
+the beginning and end of the cotton together. Each circle of the
+smallest round has 9 double, the circles of the next round each 15, the
+circles of the following one 21, and the circles of the last and largest
+round 27 double stitches. When these circles have been sewn on one to
+another as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4 double,
+1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1 double. The purls
+of this circle are fastened on to the circles of the next round of the
+rosette. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and
+work a circle as follows:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double,
+1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Repeat 9 times
+more from *, but now, instead of working the 1st purl of every circle,
+fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then fasten the
+cotton. For the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds,
+fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding
+round, and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1
+
+[Illustration: 45.--Tatted Rosette.]
+
+purl, then 4 double. Then fasten a second thread on to the same purl on
+which the just completed circle has been fastened, and over which all
+the scallops are to be worked. Work over it 5 double, fastened on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5
+double. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle of
+the preceding round, and repeat from * till the round is completed; but
+in working these circles, instead of the first purl, fasten them on to
+the last purl of the preceding scallop. Lastly, the raised pattern is
+sewn on.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+46.--_Linen Bag for Tatting, &c._
+
+Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+30 or 40; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 46.--Linen Bag for Tatting, &c.]
+
+This pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work from being
+soiled before it is completed. The bag is drawn together round the top.
+Its size depends upon what you wish to put into it. The original
+pattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3 inches wide; it is hemmed round the
+top, and trimmed with a narrow tatted lace, consisting of large and
+small circles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+47.--_Tatted Border._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 47.--Tatted Border.]
+
+Begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the following
+manner:--
+
+1st row: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double;
+draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat the circle at a very
+short distance, till the border is long enough; but instead of working
+the first purl of each circle, you must join the circle to the preceding
+one; the purl on the sides of the circle must therefore be longer than
+that in the middle.
+
+For the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left side with
+the cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the cotton in the
+right hand, which is also to be held between the thumb and forefinger of
+the left hand. Then work in the following way:--2 double, then 1 circle
+consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; to form this circle, let the
+cotton in the left-hand shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop round
+the left hand with the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. Then
+take up again the left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middle
+purl of the 1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through the
+purl like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand through
+this loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle purl of
+the next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1 circle joined on
+the middle purl of the following circle; repeat from *.
+
+The upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in the
+following manner:--
+
+1st row: * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st circle of the 1st row
+of tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding row, 1 purl (3
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of the preceding row
+under it; repeat from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+48.--_Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting._
+
+Materials for trimmings: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton
+No. 20; tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3. For couvrettes,
+crochet cotton No. 4.
+
+This rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty trimming
+for articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes; if used for
+the former, they must be worked with very fine cotton. The centre of the
+rosette is formed of an embroidered raised pattern worked in _point de
+minute_; round this centre there are small circles worked in button-hole
+stitch; the embroidery is worked with knitting cotton, the circles with
+crochet cotton. Before beginning the circles, make a circle consisting
+of a foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten the
+button-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain work
+1 double, then fasten the cotton. In the 2nd round of these circles
+fasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet circle. Work 1
+round of open-work treble stitch in the double stitch of the crochet
+circle, work in tatting the border of the rosette as follows in 1
+round:--* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fastened on to 1 chain stitch
+between 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1 purl, 2 double,; join these
+stitches into a circle; turn the work so that the wrong side lies
+upwards, and work a second larger circle at a short distance consisting
+of 4 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeat
+from *. The smaller circles must be fastened after every other treble
+stitch; the larger and smaller circles must be fastened above one
+another at the place of the 1st purl.
+
+[Illustration: 48.--Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+49--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 49.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.]
+
+The diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is commenced in
+the centre. For each of the four centre leaves work 6 double stitches, 6
+purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, then 6 more
+double stitches. Fasten off the cotton, cut it, and begin a fresh leaf
+by working 2 double stitches, 10 purl divided one from the other by 2
+double stitches, then 2 more double stitches. (This small leaf forms one
+of the corners of the diamond pattern.) Fasten the cotton to the fourth
+purl of one of the four centre leaves, and work another leaf similar to
+the preceding. Join this leaf by its two centre purl to the two last
+purl of the corner leaf (see illustration). After two more similar
+leaves, work one corner leaf, and continue the pattern in the same
+manner until you come back to the first corner leaf, then fasten off,
+and cut the cotton. Place the diamond pattern upon the point of the
+collar, and cut away the material under it; fold back the edges, sew
+them neatly, and cover them with the following crochet edging:--Make
+alternately 2 chain, 1 purl (the latter composed of 3 chain joined
+together by 1 slip stitch). It will be easy to work the circles in
+tatting from our illustration; they form an elegant border round the
+collar. We shall merely say that the centre circle is always worked
+separately, and that the cotton is fastened on afresh to work the eight
+outer leaves. The upper edge of this border is worked in crochet. It is
+composed of two rows--one formed of chain stitches, and a few slip
+stitches worked in the purl of the circles in tatting, the other worked
+in open treble crochet.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+50.--_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This cravat consists of a strip of cambric muslin 1 yard long, 6 inches
+wide, hemmed on both sides. The ends of the cravat are ornamented with
+patterns in tatting, worked with tatting cotton No. 100. A rosette in
+tatting is sewn on in the middle of the end of the cravat. The end of
+the cravat is pointed, lined on the wrong side with a strip of the same
+material as the cravat, and edged with a tatted lace. Begin the rosette
+in the centre with a circle worked in the following manner:--1 double, 1
+purl, * twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl,
+twice 4 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, * 3 double, 1 purl; repeat
+from * to * once more, 2 double. At the beginning of the 2nd round
+fasten the cotton on the 1st purl of the 1st round, and
+
+[Illustration: 50.--Cravat in Muslin and Tatting.]
+
+work as follows:--* 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl, 2 double,
+1 purl, 10 double; fasten the cotton on to the next purl, 1 circle like
+the preceding one, fastened on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of
+9 double, 1 purl, 9 double fastened on to the next purl, 2 circles
+consisting each of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; between the 2 fasten the
+cotton on to the next purl; 2 similar circles fastened also on to the
+next purl, 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, fastened
+on to the next circle; repeat once more from *, and fasten off the
+cotton. Fasten on the cotton afresh for the 3rd round, worked in the
+following manner:--* 1 circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double,
+1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl; 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6
+double; fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 1st purl of the
+2nd round, 1 circle worked as follows:--5 double fastened on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle of this round, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on
+to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the 2nd round; 6 similar circles,
+between each of which the cotton is to be fastened on to the nearest
+purl of a circle of the 2nd round; repeat once more from *, and knot the
+beginning and the end of the cotton together. When completed, the
+rosette is sewn on the material of the cravat with button-hole stitches,
+taking up one purl with each stitch; the muslin is cut away underneath
+the rosette; then work a round of knotted stitches underneath the
+button-hole stitch. For the lace, make a row of circles one-fifth of an
+inch distant from each other, consisting each of 6 double, 1 purl, 2
+double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 2 double, 1
+purl, 6 double, which are fastened together by the purl of each circle,
+and are sewn on the cravat over the cotton between the circles in
+overcast stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+51--_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 51.--Cravat in Muslin and Tatting.]
+
+The end of this cravat is formed by a long rosette or _médaillon_ in
+tatting. This rosette is likewise begun in the centre, and consists of 4
+rounds, the 2 first of which are worked like those of the rosette in
+illustration 50, with this difference only, that in the 2nd round each
+of the circles nearest to the top and to the bottom of the rosette
+consists of 8 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 3rd round: * 1
+circle, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fastened
+on to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the preceding round; 1 circle
+as follows:--5 double, the last of which is fastened on to the last purl
+of the preceding round, 4 double, 1 purl, twice 2 double divided by 1
+purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on the next purl of
+the preceding round; 8 more similar circles, between each of which the
+cotton is fastened on to the next purl of the preceding round; repeat
+from * once more, fasten the two ends of the cotton together. 4th round:
+* Fasten on the cotton afresh with a circle consisting of 7 double, 1
+purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4
+double, 1 purl, 7 double, fastened on to the middle purl of the 1st
+circle of the preceding round; a 2nd circle worked in the same way, only
+instead of working the last purl, fasten the cotton on to the last purl
+of the preceding circle, then on to the 1st circle of the preceding
+round; 10 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is
+fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, and
+then on to the 2nd purl of the larger circle at the bottom of the
+medallion; repeat once more from *. The pattern is sewn on the cravat
+with button-hole stitches, as can be seen in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+52.--_Border in Crochet and Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 26.
+
+This border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves, which
+are joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow
+
+[Illustration: 52.--Border in Crochet and Tatting.]
+
+border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the border
+forms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles is begun in
+the centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is formed by passing
+the thread over the back of the hand, and then passing the shuttle
+upwards between the forefinger and second finger, and drawing it up,
+then work a stitch of plain tatting; this completes the double stitch,
+and whenever so many double stitches are directed it means the 2
+stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9 times, join the stitch into a circle, work
+at a small distance * a smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl,
+divided each by 2 double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the
+purl of the first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each
+following circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle
+after 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the thread
+must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which forms the
+centre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the thread are
+knotted together. For the tatted border, make at short distances 1 loop
+with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having worked a sufficient number
+of such loops, wind another thread round the thread between the loops,
+turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. Now begin the
+crochet part with the leaves. Make for each of these a foundation chain
+of 12 stitches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch
+but one, 1 double in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following
+7 chain, 2 treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2
+treble in the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on the
+other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3
+double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leaf
+with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double in each stitch
+of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble stitch. In working this
+last round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up the
+purl stitch of the circle before casting off the corresponding double
+stitch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles
+and leaves with a row of chain stitches, on which a row of double is
+worked. Then comes the border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of
+chain stitches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of
+treble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely
+in chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the
+loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3
+chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1
+under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must be fastened
+on the border, as seen in illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+53.--_Diamond in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
+tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle.
+
+[Illustration: 53.--Diamond in Tatting.]
+
+1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
+double thread is required, and commence by working 5 double stitches, 1
+purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
+hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them tightly.
+
+2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1
+purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches tightly worked.
+
+3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, draw
+up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+4th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+5th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+6th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 7 single stitches.
+
+7th oval: 5 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1
+purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 7 single stitches.
+
+8th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1
+purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+9th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+10th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+11th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+12th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3 double, join to 1st purl
+of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 7 single stitches.
+
+Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at the
+back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other.
+
+The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with lacework,
+using fine sewing-cotton.
+
+Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty trimming for
+the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed with single diamonds.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+54.--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100,
+tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord.
+
+This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very
+effective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working for
+each of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the
+other by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches. When the third
+leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton. Now take, instead of
+the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of extremely fine cord, over
+which work with the cotton from the reel the following row of
+stitches:--1 double stitch, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one
+of the three leaves, * 2 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the
+other by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the
+centre purl of the nearest leaf, 2 double stitches, 9 purl divided one
+from the other by 3 double stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to the
+same purl as before. Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut
+the cord and the cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each
+composed of 12 plain stitches placed quite close together (these form
+one of the corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from
+the other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is fastened
+to one purl of the row of
+
+[Illustration: 54.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.]
+
+stitches worked over the cord (see illustration). Cut away from the
+collar the piece of linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold
+in the edges and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up the
+space with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circle
+composed of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2
+double stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more and
+work over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle composed
+of 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other by 2 double
+stitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord again and work over
+it 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double
+stitches. Fasten the cotton to the third purl (reckoning from the last)
+of the second circle worked without cord; 3 double stitches fastened to
+the fourth purl of the row of stitches worked over the cord (see
+illustration), 2 double stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double
+stitches, 3 double stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3
+double stitches fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches,
+3 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten the
+cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the beginning), 4
+double stitches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of the border a
+crochet edging similar to that round the diamond pattern of collar No.
+49. For the point of the border, at the corner of the collar, see
+illustration No. 54.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+55.--_Tatted Collar_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
+tatting-pin No. 1.
+
+This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists of four
+branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles, fastened on to
+one another as seen in illustration. The four branched patterns are
+worked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, then 3 double, and join the knots into a circle. Work 3 similar
+leaves close to this 1st leaf, but instead of working the 1st purl,
+fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding leaf; besides this,
+instead of
+
+[Illustration: 55.--Tatted Collar.]
+
+working the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl
+of the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed, knot
+both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row of similar
+patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a branch of the
+preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle purl of the last
+branch (see illustration). Two rows of similar patterns are joined by
+the above-mentioned circles, consisting of 32 double stitches, by
+fastening these circles from illustration between four branched
+patterns. Begin each circle with 2 double stitches, fasten it on to the
+corresponding purl of the four-branched pattern, work again 2 double,
+fasten on to the next purl, and continue in the same manner till the
+circle is sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lace
+stitch. The collar is edged round the neck with close button-hole
+stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+56.--_Tatted Collar_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton in the
+following manner:--1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw the cotton
+into a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1 purl, 3 double,
+draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the first purl of the
+first circle; work two more circles the same as last. 2nd oval: 2
+double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to the third purl of the
+centre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 times, 2 double,
+1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5 small circles, as follow:--3
+double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, * 1 purl, 3 double, joining each
+circle to the purl of the 2nd oval. 3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times,
+joining the 3rd purl to the 2nd purl of the centre circle of the
+preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw
+the cotton up, and work 7 small circles, similar to the small circles
+described in 2nd oval.
+
+[Illustration: 56.--Tatted Collar.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+57.--_Circle in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 57.--Circle in Tatting.]
+
+This circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty for
+ornamenting cravat-ends and different articles of lingerie. It is
+commenced in the centre with 2 double, 1 purl, repeated 8 times, draw
+the cotton into a ring, and work 8 small circles, as follow:--3 double,
+* 1 purl, 1 double, repeat from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up the
+cotton, and join it to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle.
+Large circle: 3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3
+double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle.
+The centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+58.--_Tatting Medallion for Trimming Lingeries, &c._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 for
+cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for petticoats;
+tatting-pin No. 2 or 3.
+
+
+This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars,
+pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &c., according to the size of the
+cotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of circles which
+incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the centre; begin with
+the smallest circle, which is at the top of the pattern; it consists of
+3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 3 double. Then
+work at a short distance another circle like the preceding one, only
+work 8 double instead of 7, and instead of working the first purl,
+fasten the circle on to the last purl of the preceding circle; all the
+other circles are fastened on to each other in the same manner. The next
+circle, worked again at a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4
+double; fasten it on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9
+double, 1 purl, 4 double. The following four circles are worked like the
+preceding one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead
+of 9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece of
+cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat longer
+between the larger circles. Then work a circle
+
+[Illustration: 58.--Tatting Medallion.]
+
+as follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double, 1
+purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14 double
+instead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten the cotton,
+15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two following
+circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double instead of 15.
+Then comes the largest circle of the round, which consists of 6 double,
+17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6 double. Work 11 circles more
+like the 2nd to 12th of those just described (the 13th circle forms the
+middle), only the order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round
+closes with the smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cotton
+together, so that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work round
+this row of circles another round, the circles of which must be of
+graduated sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on to
+the middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work
+one circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2 double,
+1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the
+next circle, &c. The remaining circles are worked in the same manner,
+only they must be increased and decreased in size gradually like the
+circles of the first round; this is done by increasing or decreasing the
+number of purl, instead of working the first purl of every following
+circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. When the
+round is completed, fasten both ends of the cotton together. In the
+centre of the oval pattern, fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated
+size, which are worked in one piece. For the smallest of these patterns
+work first three circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times
+alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be
+close to each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be
+fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton is
+then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the end of
+the same, then work close to them two small circles, consisting of 6
+double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between the beginning and
+the end of the third circle. The other five-branched patterns are worked
+in the same manner at intervals of about three-tenths of an inch; but
+the separate circles of each pattern must become gradually larger. In
+the largest pattern the three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl,
+8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles
+consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other
+patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins these
+last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and thread, so as
+to imitate double stitches. The five-branched patterns are then fastened
+in the oval pattern; they must overlap each other to half way, as seen
+in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+59.--_Tatted Diamond_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or 80
+if required finer; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 59--Tatted Diamond.]
+
+This pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with fine
+tatting cotton in the following manner:--Work a * circle consisting of 6
+double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards and work at a short
+distance another circle consisting of 5 double, 4 purl divided by 2
+double, 5 double; at a similar distance a circle of 5 double fastened on
+to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2
+double, 5 double; then again a circle consisting of 5 double fastened on
+to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2
+double, 5 double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. Then turn
+the work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave an
+interval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three times
+more from *, fastening the circles on to each other from illustration.
+Knot together the beginning and end of the cotton, work button-hole
+stitches round the cotton which joins the circles, as shown in
+illustration. The purl stitches of the four middle circles of the
+diamond are knotted together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+60.--_Tatted Cravat End_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3; 2 shuttles.
+
+This cravat end is given in full size. It is ornamented with a tatted
+medallion, edged with lace. The tatting is worked with tatting fine
+cotton and two shuttles. Make first the two rosettes which form the
+centre of the medallion, then the insertion-like part which edges the
+rosettes. The larger rosette is worked as follows:--Knot the cotton of
+both shuttles together and work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting
+of 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double; * close to
+this circle, which is turned downwards, work over the cotton with the
+other shuttle, 1 double, 1 purl, 8 double; this forms one of the
+scallops joining two circles. Then turn the work again and work close to
+the just completed scallop another circle like the first, but which is
+joined to the first circle instead of working the purl. Repeat 4 times
+more from *. Then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton on
+to the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the place
+where the scallop is joined to the first circle. The first round of the
+rosette is thus completed. Work then the 2nd round over the cotton on
+the 2nd shuttle, beginning to work where the two ends of cotton have
+been fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl of
+the next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double
+fastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the
+
+[Illustration: 60.--Tatted Cravat End.]
+
+preceding round; repeat 5 times more from *. The larger rosette is now
+completed. The smaller rosette is worked like the first, only without
+the second round. The insertion-like border is worked in two halves as
+follows:--The half which touches the edge of the medallion is worked as
+follows:--Knot both ends of cotton together and *, work with 1 shuttle
+only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long,
+8 double; turn the circle downwards and work close to it over the cotton
+on the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop of
+the border. Then turn the work again and work close to the scallop
+another circle like the first, but which is fastened on to the first
+circle instead of working the purl. Turn the work again, work a scallop
+like the preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only the
+scallops at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few double
+stitches more, as can be seen in illustration. After working the last
+scallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle; then cut
+them off. The second inner half is worked like the first; only the
+circles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened on to the
+circles of the first half from illustration; the scallops of this half
+are somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double. The
+completed border is sewn on to the rosettes from illustration; the
+different pieces must be first fastened on cardboard. The cotton must be
+wound several times round the long threads, as seen in illustration. The
+medallion is then sewn into the muslin at the top only; the remaining
+border is edged, before joining it to the muslin, with a straight row of
+knots to be worked over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop of
+the border at regular intervals. The number of double stitches between
+two purl is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. For the lace
+knot both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circle
+consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double; turn the work and make
+another circle consisting of 2 double, 9 times alternately 1 purl, 2
+double; then fasten this circle on to the preceding one, where it has
+been joined into a circle, so that both circles meet as seen in
+illustration. After having turned the work again, work 9 double over the
+cotton on the 2nd shuttle, which form a scallop between the circles, and
+repeat from *. The lace is then sewn round the edge of the muslin.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+61.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or No.
+40 if desired in a larger size.
+
+[Illustration: 61. Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.]
+
+This rosette is suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. It is
+worked in white embroidery and lace stitch, and edged all round with a
+tatted lace. For the latter work with very fine cotton * 1 large circle,
+consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl,
+then 5 double. At a short distance from this circle work a smaller one,
+consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the large circle,
+5 double. Leave again an interval as small as the last, and repeat from
+* 11 times more. But in working the large circles, instead of working
+the 1st purl, fasten them on the same purl of the large circle on which
+the small circle has been fastened; besides this, in working the last
+(12th) large circle, instead of working the last purl, fasten it on the
+1st purl of the 1st circle; the last small circle is fastened on to the
+same purl. The lace is thus joined into a circle, and is sewn round the
+outside of the rosette with button-hole stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+62.--_Cravat End in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 62.--Cravat End in Tatting.]
+
+The illustration shows the end of a tatted cravat. Work first the middle
+row of the cravat at the same time with the row of circles on the left
+side of the middle row in illustration; begin with the first circle of
+the middle row. It consists of 7 times alternately 3 double, 1 small
+purl, then 3 double. Work close to this circle, which must be turned
+downwards, a Josephine knot, consisting of 5 plain stitches, then a
+circle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 5 times
+alternately 3 double, 1 small purl; 3 double, 1 long purl, 5 double.
+*Turn this circle (which is the first of the side row) downwards, work
+close to it a Josephine knot, then a circle consisting of 12 double, 1
+small purl, 12 double. Turn this circle downwards, work a Josephine
+knot, and then again a circle like the first of the side row, but
+instead of working the first long purl, fasten it on to the last purl of
+the preceding circle of the same row. Then hold the work so that the
+circles of the side row are turned downwards, work a Josephine knot, 1
+circle like the first circle of the middle row, turn the work, make 1
+Josephine knot, and then a circle like the second circle of the side
+row. Repeat from * till the cravat is sufficiently long. The last circle
+of the middle row must correspond to the first circle of the same row.
+Then begin to work the lower edge at the same time with the last circle
+of the middle row, * 1 Josephine knot, then a circle like the circles of
+the side row, again 1 Josephine knot, fastened on to the next purl of
+the last circle of the middle row; repeat 3 times more from *. Then
+continue as before, and work on the right side of the middle row a row
+of circles exactly like those which have been worked at the same time
+with those of the middle row.
+
+The fastening on of the cotton between two Josephine knots is seen in
+illustration. The circles at the other end of the cravat are fastened
+like those of the first-described end. The cravat is edged all round
+with a row of circles with Josephine knots worked exactly like those of
+the preceding row, and the manner of fastening which is seen in the
+illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+63.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or 40
+if required larger; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 63.--Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.]
+
+The centre of this rosette is worked in lace stitch on muslin, edged
+round with button-hole stitch and trimmed with a tatted lace, which is
+worked at the same time with the centre. Work first * a small circle
+consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 3 double, fastened on to the button-hole
+stitch edging of the rosette, then 3 double, 1 purl, 5 double. Then turn
+the just-completed circle downwards, and afterwards work at a short
+distance a large circle consisting of 7 double, 6 times alternately 1
+purl, 2 double, lastly 1 purl, 7 double, then 1 Josephine knot
+consisting of 7 plain. Then turn the work again, so that the last large
+circle is turned downwards, and repeat from * 12 times more; the large
+and small circles must be fastened on to one another, as seen in
+illustration. The fastening of the small circles on to the centre is
+likewise done from the illustration.
+
+64.--_Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3; square of netting; fine Mecklenburg thread No. 80.
+
+[Illustration: 64.--Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting.]
+
+The end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned netting,
+edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of the cravat.
+But the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square (page 31) will look
+very pretty with this border. The square is worked in diamond netting,
+and has seven holes in length and breadth. They are darned in linen
+stitch, darning stitch, and _point d'esprit_, with Mecklenburg thread.
+The ground is worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inch
+round. For each square one more row than is needed must be worked, and
+the cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitches
+of the other rows. The tatted border is worked with fine tatting cotton.
+Fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a circle
+consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch of the ground
+where it was first fastened; #work a second circle like the
+first, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again on to the same
+stitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small circle, consisting
+of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4
+double, 1 purl, 5 double. The cotton is fastened on to the same netted
+stitch as before, and then on to the next stitch; repeat twice more from
+#, and then repeat from * in all three times more, so that the
+square is edged all round. It is sewn into the material from the
+illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+65.--_Tatted Antimacassar. (See pages_ 574-5.)
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 30, or
+tatting cotton No. 24, or for a larger size tatting cotton No. 20;
+tatting-pin No. 1; large shuttle.
+
+The illustration shows the fourth of the antimacassar and the whole of
+the rosette which forms the centre. Begin with the latter, with the
+five-branched pattern in the centre, at the same time with the following
+round of circles:--*Work first one circle of this round, consisting of 3
+double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double; then at
+a short distance a circle like the one just made, in which, however,
+instead of working the first purl, the cotton must be joined on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle. Then work at a short distance the
+first leaf of the five-branched pattern, which consists of 4 double, 1
+purl, 4 double. When this branch is completed, repeat at a short
+distance 4 times more from *; but in working the branches of the
+five-branched pattern, instead of working the purl, join it on to the
+purl of the first branch of the five-branched pattern (this purl forms
+the centre of the pattern). All the circles must also be joined one to
+each other, as can be seen from illustration. Then work the scallops
+round the border of the rosette, * fasten the cotton on to the purl
+which joins the two next circles of the preceding round, and work one
+scallop consisting of 11 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 2
+double. Repeat 9 times more from *. When the rosette is completed, work
+eight rosettes in the same manner and join them into a circle from
+illustration by means of small three-branched patterns, and then join
+them on to the middle rosette.
+
+The strip of insertion which comes next is worked in two halves as
+follows:--Work first, for the half turned towards the centre, two rows
+of circles lying opposite each other; begin with one of the largest
+circles, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 3 times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, then 4 double; * at a short distance work a smaller circle of 4
+double, 1 purl, 4 double; after another short distance, a circle like
+the first joined on to it; then again a smaller circle, which at the
+place of the first purl is joined on to the purl of the preceding small
+circle. A short distance from this work again one of the larger circles
+just described, which is fastened on to the preceding similar circle;
+then repeat from * till the double row has nine larger and eight smaller
+circles. The first half of the strip of insertion is completed; the
+second outer half is worked like the first, only the small circles must
+here be worked without any purl, and two of them together must always be
+fastened on to the two joined small circles of the first half, as was
+done for the five-branched pattern of the rosette; besides this, each of
+the large circles has 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, then 4 double. When eight similar patterns have been worked, join
+them into a circle from illustration by means of small rosettes; this
+circle is then joined to the already-finished part of the cover. The
+small rosettes and remaining patterns of the antimacassar are easily
+worked from illustration. The completed patterns are joined together in
+the course of the work.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TATTING COTTON
+
+Is supplied by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, in all sizes from
+20 to 120. Crochet Cotton, which is preferred by some Tatters, is sold
+in all sizes from to 120.
+
+The following table will assist ladies in selecting the size of either
+tatting or crochet cotton. All these cottons are on reels containing 100
+yards:--
+
+|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|
+|                                |     Tatting.    |    Crochet.   |
+|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|
+| Petticoat Edgings and          |                 |               |
+|    Insertions                  |     20          | 0 and 12      |
+|  Night Dress Trimmings         |     40          |       60      |
+| Lingerie Trimming              |     50          |       70      |
+|  Collars and Cravats           |     50          |       70      |
+|  Pocket Handkerchiefs          |    100          |      120      |
+|  Parasol Covers                |    100          |      120      |
+|  Antimacassars                 |    20, 30       |    0 and 20   |
+|  Pincushions                   |     60          |       80      |
+|  Caps                          |    100          |      120      |
+|  Lace                          |  60, 80, 100    | 80, 100, 120  |
+|  Insertions                    |  20, 40, 80     | 40, 80, 100   |
+|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|
+
+Ladies at a distance from town or on the Continent will be glad to have
+some guide as to the quantity of cotton required to complete their work.
+The quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used by an average worker is
+found to be two yards to the square inch with a single shuttle; three
+yards to the square inch with two shuttles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+EMBROIDERY
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+
+The art of embroidering with cotton on linen, muslin, cambric, piqué,
+&c., is very easy to learn by strictly attending to the following
+instructions.
+
+The size of the thread and needle must correspond to that of the
+material on which you embroider; the needle must not be too long, and
+the cotton must be soft. Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton is the best. Skilful embroiderers never work over anything,
+because when you tack the material on paper or cloth each stitch shows,
+and if the material is very fine, leaves small holes; but for those that
+are learning we should advise them to tack the material to be
+embroidered upon a piece of _toile cirée_. If you work without this,
+place the material straight over the forefinger of the left hand; the
+material must never be held slantways. The three other fingers of the
+left hand hold the work; the thumb remains free to give the right
+position to each stitch. The work must always, if possible, lie so that
+the outline of the pattern is turned towards the person who works. For
+the sake of greater clearness one part of the following illustrations is
+given in larger size than nature. Preparing the patterns is one of the
+most important things in embroidery, for the shape of the patterns is
+often spoiled merely because they have not been prepared with sufficient
+care.
+
+
+[Illustration: 66.--Scallop.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 66 shows how to prepare a scallop. Take thicker cotton than
+that with which you work; never commence with a knot, and do not take a
+thread longer than sixteen or eighteen inches. The outlines of the
+scallops are first traced with short straight stitches. In the corners
+particularly the stitches must be short. The space between the outlines
+is filled with chain stitches, as can be seen from illustration; they
+must not be too long, otherwise the embroidery will look coarse. It is
+in this way that every pattern to be worked in button-hole or satin
+stitch is to be prepared.
+
+
+[Illustration: 67.--Double Overcast Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 67 shows the double overcast stitch or button-hole stitch
+in a straight line. After having traced the outline begin to work from
+left to right; fasten the cotton with a few stitches, hold it with the
+thumb of the left hand under the outline, insert the needle downwards
+above the outline, draw it out under the same above the cotton which you
+hold in the left hand, and draw it up. Repeat for all the stitches in
+the same manner; they must be regular and lie close to one another.
+Great care should be taken that the material on which you embroider is
+not puckered.
+
+
+[Illustration: 68.--Overcast Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 68 (_Overcast Stitch_).--The double overcast and the
+button-hole stitches are worked from left to right, whilst back
+stitches, knotted and satin stitches are worked from right to left. The
+stitch is worked in the same way as the double overcast, only the needle
+must never be drawn out _above_, but _below_, the cotton with which you
+work, and which you keep down with the thumb of the left hand.
+
+
+[Illustration: 69.--Slanting Overcast Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 69.--The slanting overcast stitch is worked without tracing
+the outline, always inserting the needle downwards--that is, from top to
+bottom. The needle must be inserted in the manner shown in
+illustration--that is, not straight, but slanting; insert it a little
+farther than the last stitch, and draw it out close to it. The wrong
+side of the work must show back stitches. This sort of stitch is used
+for the fine outlines in patterns or letter.
+
+
+[Illustration: 70.--Back Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 70.--This shows the back stitch, the working of which is
+well known; it is worked in several rows close to each other.
+
+
+[Illustration: 71.--Point Croisé.]
+
+[Illustration: 72.--Point Croisé.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 71 & 72 show another kind of back stitch, called _point
+croisé_, which is only used on very thin and transparent materials. This
+stitch forms on the wrong side a sort of darned pattern, which is seen
+by transparence on the right side, and gives the embroidered pattern a
+thicker appearance, contrasting with the rest of the work (see the lower
+leaves of the flower on illustration 110). For this stitch insert the
+needle into the material as for the common back stitch, draw it out
+underneath the needle on the opposite outline of the pattern, so as to
+form on the wrong side a slanting line. Insert the needle again as for
+common back stitch; draw it out slanting at the place marked for the
+next stitch on the opposite outline, as shown in illustration 71.
+
+
+[Illustration: 73--- Knotted Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 73 shows the knotted stitch; the simplest way of working it
+is to work two back stitches at a short distance from each other over
+the same thread.
+
+
+The knotted stitch seen in ILLUSTRATION 74 is worked thus:--Take about
+four threads of the material on the needle, draw the needle half out,
+wind the cotton twice round the point of the needle, hold it tight with
+the thumb, draw the needle out carefully and insert it at the place
+where the stitch was begun, and draw it out at the place where the next
+stitch is to be worked.
+
+[Illustration: 74.--Knotted Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 75.--Knotted Stitch]
+
+The knotted stitch seen on ILLUSTRATION 75 is worked in nearly the same
+manner as the preceding one. Before drawing the cotton out of the
+material hold it tight with the left-hand thumb; leave the needle in the
+same position, wind the cotton twice round it, turn the needle from left
+to right, so (follow the direction of the arrow) that its point arrives
+where the cotton was drawn out (marked by a cross in illustration),
+insert the needle there, and draw it out at the place of the next
+stitch.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 76 & 77.--Raised satin stitch is principally used for
+blossoms, flowers, leaves, letters, &c. After having traced the outlines
+of the pattern, fill the space left between them with chain stitches in
+a direction different from that in which the pattern is to be
+embroidered; begin at the point of the leaf, working from right to left,
+make short straight stitches, always
+
+[Illustration: 76.--Raised Satin Stitch.]
+
+inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it out below.
+The leaves on the flowers, as well as on the branches, must be begun
+from the point, because they thus acquire a better shape. If you wish to
+work a leaf divided in the middle, as seen in illustration 77, you must
+trace the veining before you fill it with chain stitches, then begin at
+one point of the leaf and work first one half and then the other.
+
+[Illustration: 77.--Raised Satin Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 78.--Point de Plume.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 78 shows the so-called _point de plume_ on a scalloped
+leaf. It is worked like the satin stitch, only the needle is drawn
+through the material in a slanting direction.
+
+
+[Illustration: 79.--Point de Minute.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 79 (_Point de Minute_).--This stitch is often used instead
+of satin stitch when the patterns must appear raised. Wind the cotton
+several times round the point of the needle, which is inserted into the
+material half its length (the number of times the cotton is to be wound
+round the needle depends on the length of the pattern), hold fast the
+windings with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle and the cotton
+through the windings, insert the needle into the material at the same
+place, and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to begin.
+
+
+[Illustration: 80.--Ladder Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 81.--Ladder Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 80 & 81 show the _ladder stitch_, often used in ornamental
+embroidery. Trace first the outlines as seen in illustrations; mark also
+the cross stitches between the outlines, so that the first touch the
+outlines only at both ends. The outlines are embroidered in overcast
+stitch or double overcast; the material is cut away underneath the
+ladder stitch between the outlines.
+
+We have now shown the different kinds of stitches used in embroidery;
+the following illustrations show them used for different patterns.
+
+
+[Illustration: 82.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.]
+
+[Illustration: 83.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.]
+
+[Illustration: 84.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.]
+
+[Illustration: 85.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 82 TO 85 (_Different Button-hole Stitch Scallops_).--These
+scallops are prepared as above described. Take care to have the stitches
+even and regular; the scallops must be wide in the centre and very fine
+at both ends.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 86 & 87 (_Button-holes and Eyelets_).--This kind of
+embroidery is used only in round or long patterns. Trace first the
+outline of the hole, cut away a small round piece of material, not too
+close to the outlines (when the button-hole is very small merely insert
+the point of the scissors or a stiletto into the material), fold the
+edge of the material back with the needle, and work the hole in overcast
+stitch, inserting the needle into the empty place in the centre and
+drawing it out under the outline. Some button-holes are worked
+separately; sometimes they are in a row; if so, take care to begin to
+work each button-hole at the place where it touches the next. In the
+following button-holes the outside must be traced double, so as to reach
+as far as the next one, but each button-hole is finished at once.
+Illustration 86 shows a button-hole worked round in button-hole stitch,
+87 an eyelet-hole worked in overcast.
+
+[Illustration: 86.--Button and Eyelet Holes.]
+
+[Illustration: 87.--Button and Eyelet Holes.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 88.--Shaded Button-hole.]
+
+[Illustration: 89.--Shaded Button-hole.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 88 & 89.--Shaded button-holes are worked like the others,
+only they are prepared, as can be seen in illustration 89, so as to mark
+the thickness. The stitches must gradually get narrower or wider, and be
+worked very close to each other.
+
+
+[Illustration: 90.--Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 90 & 91 (_Two Leaves in Raised Satin Stitch_).--In a leaf
+like the one seen in 90 work first the outline and veining in overcast
+stitch; work one half of the leaf in satin stitch, and the other half
+between the overcast outline and veining in back stitch. The stem of a
+leaf is always worked last.
+
+[Illustration: 91.--Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 92.--Raised Leaf.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 92 & 93 (_Two Leaves in Satin Stitch and Point de
+Plume_).--For leaves like the one seen in 93 begin with the veinings,
+then work the inner points, then the outer ones, and lastly the raised
+spots in the centre. The leaf seen in 92 is worked, one half in _point
+de plume_, the other half in back stitch or _point d'or_.
+
+[Illustration: 93.--Raised Leaf.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 94.--Leaf.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 94.--- The outline of this leaf is embroidered in overcast
+stitch; the open-work veining consists of eyelets; one half of the leaf
+is worked in back stitch, the other half in a kind of satin stitch
+worked without chain stitches underneath; the stitches are worked
+across the leaf, leaving between two stitches an interval as wide as the
+stitch itself. The next row is then worked in these intervals, and each
+stitch begins half-way up the one before and after it.
+
+
+[Illustration: 95.--Leaf Raised.]
+
+[Illustration: 96.--Leaf Raised.]
+
+[Illustration: 97.--Raised Leaf.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 95 to 97 (_Leaf in Raised Embroidery).--This kind of
+embroidery is particularly beautiful, as it is worked separately and
+sewn on the material with an outline in very fine cotton, this produces
+the shade seen in 95 (see also illustrations 98 to 113). For such leaves
+work first one half in overcast and satin stitch (illustration 96); the
+other half is worked on a separate piece of material (see illustration
+97); cut away the material along the overcast outline, and fasten it on
+the foundation material along the outline which forms the veining on
+illustration 96.
+
+
+[Illustration: 98.--Raised Embroidered Leaf.]
+
+[Illustration: 99.--Half of Leaf (98).]
+
+[Illustration: 100.--Centre of Leaf (98).]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 98 TO 100 show a similar leaf; both halves are worked
+separately (see 99); the centre is worked in open lace stitch. The
+latter (see No. 100) is traced, then make ladder stitches across, work
+the outlines in overcast stitch, and cut away the material underneath
+the ladder stitch. The cross stitches are then worked in darning stitch
+with very fine cotton wherever two threads meet.
+
+
+[Illustration: 101.--Blossom in Satin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 101 (_Blossom in Satin Stitch_).--The eyelet is worked in
+overcast stitch, then work the upper part of the blossom all in one
+piece as far as the beginning of the veining, thence the blossom is
+worked in two halves.
+
+
+[Illustration: 102.--Blossom in Satin Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 103.--Bead partly covered.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 102 & 103 (_Blossom in Satin Stitch_).--The raised centre
+of this flower is formed by a bead, over which the embroidery is worked.
+When the leaves have been worked one after the other, place a bead in
+the centre, left free in such a manner that one hole lies on the
+material, and work over the bead by inserting the needle into its upper
+hole, then underneath the material, drawing it out above the material
+close to the bead, and so on (see 103).
+
+
+[Illustration: 104.--Star in Satin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 104 (_Star Pattern in Satin Stitch_).--The centre, which
+forms a wheel, is worked first. Draw the threads across the circle
+marked by an outline; in the centre they are wound round, always taking
+one thread _on the needle_ and leaving the next thread _under the
+needle_, as can be seen in 122 on the half-finished pattern. The
+material underneath the wheel is only cut away when the rest of the
+pattern has been embroidered.
+
+
+[Illustration: 105.--Star in Point de Reprise.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 105 & 106 (_Patterns in Back, Satin, and Ladder
+Stitches_).--The small star in the centre of No. 105 is worked in _point
+de reprise_.
+
+[Illustration: 106.--Star.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 107.--Flower in Satin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 107 (_Flower in Satin Stitch_).--The fine veinings are
+worked with fine black silk in _point russe_, which renders the effect
+of the flower very beautiful.
+
+
+[Illustration: 108--Rose in Satin Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 109.--Petal for Rose.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 108 & 109 (_Rose in Satin Stitch_).--No. 109 shows one
+petal larger than full size. The outer circle only is prepared with
+chain stitches underneath, so as to appear raised; the inner circles are
+worked flat. The centre of the rose is embroidered in open work.
+
+
+[Illustration: 110.--Heartsease.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 110 (_Embroidered Heartsease_).--For the knotted stitch see
+No. 75. for the _point croisé_ see 71 and 72.
+
+
+[Illustration: 111.--Raised Flower]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 111 (_Flower in Raised Satin Stitch_).
+
+
+[Illustration: 112.--Ear of Corn.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 112 (_An Ear of Corn in Point de Minute_).
+
+
+[Illustration: 113.--Bluebell.]
+
+[Illustration: 114.--Inner part of Bluebell.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 113, 114, & 116 (_Bluebell in Raised Satin Stitch_).--This
+flower is worked partly in separate pieces, as has been described.
+Illustration 116 shows the raised part stretched out flat. When it is
+finished it is fastened down along the dotted line on No. 114, which
+shows the inner part of the flower.
+
+
+[Illustration: 115.--Flower.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 115 (_Flower in Point de Minute_).--This stitch is here
+worked over a thick foundation of chain stitches. For raised patterns it
+looks very well.
+
+[Illustration: 115.--Outer part of Bluebell.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 117.--Flower appliquéd on Net.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 116 & 117 (_Flower worked in Appliqué_).--To work in
+appliqué, two materials, either similar or different, are needed. You
+can work either in appliqué of muslin on muslin, or of muslin on net, or
+of net on net. Muslin on Brussels net is the prettiest way of working in
+appliqué; we will therefore describe it: the other materials are worked
+in the same manner. Trace the pattern on the muslin, fasten the latter
+on the net, and trace the outlines of the pattern with very small
+stitches work them in overcast stitch with very fine cotton, taking care
+not to pucker the material. The veinings are worked in overcast. When
+the pattern has been embroidered cut away the muslin round the outlines
+with sharp scissors, so that the net forms the grounding (see No. 117).
+The greatest care is required in cutting out the muslin to avoid
+touching the threads of the net.
+
+
+[Illustration: 118.--Border.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 118 & 119 (_Narrow Borders_).--It will be easy to work
+these borders from the above instructions. Observe only that on border
+118 the outer row of scallops is worked first, then the button-hole
+stitch row, and the rest afterwards. The spots are edged all round in
+knotted stitch. The wheels in the centre of the eyelets of No. 119 are
+worked with very fine cotton in loose button-hole stitch; they are wound
+round with the cotton in a second row.
+
+[Illustration: 119.--Border.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 120.--Insertion.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 120 TO 122.--Three strips of insertion, which are worked
+nearly like the ladder stitch. For No. 120, in tracing the outlines,
+make two small knots at short distances by winding the cotton four times
+round the needle, as can be seen in illustration; the windings are held
+down with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle through, and a
+knot is formed. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch only when
+all the knots have been made, and then the material is cut away
+underneath.
+
+Illustration 121 is a variety of the slanting ladder stitch.
+
+Illustration 122.--The cross threads are worked in two rows in the
+common herring-bone stitch, as can be seen by the black lines on the
+illustration. The straight lines at the top and at the bottom are worked
+in double overcast; lastly, the wheels are worked in a row as described
+for the star pattern, No. 104.
+
+[Illustration: 121.--Insertion.]
+
+[Illustration: 122.--Insertion.]
+
+[Illustration: 123. U]
+
+[Illustration: 124. C]
+
+[Illustration: 125. B]
+
+[Illustration: 126. O]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 123 To 129 (_Embroidered Initials_).--To learn to work
+initials the Roman characters are the easiest to begin with. They must
+be traced and prepared like other embroidery in satin stitch, only the
+chain stitches underneath must not be too thick: it would take away the
+shape of the letters. All depends on the fineness and regularity of the
+stitches; they must be worked in overcast stitch. Work from left to
+right, and the letter when completed must look rather like raised
+printing than like embroidery. Gothic letters are much more difficult to
+work on account of the many flourishes; it requires great practice in
+needlework to embroider them well. Illustration 123.--The small black
+dots are worked in black silk on the thick parts of the letter: the fine
+strokes are covered with cross threads of black silk. Illustration
+124.--The outlines of the letter and the fine strokes are worked in
+black silk. Illustration 125.--This letter is embroidered in raised
+satin stitch and _point de plume_. Illustration 126.--This letter is
+worked in back stitches, over which are worked at regular distances
+cross stitches of black silk. Illustration 127.--Letter in satin and
+back stitch. Illustration 128 to be worked in overcast and double
+overcast.
+
+Illustration 129.--Letter G in _point russe_ with black silk.
+
+[Illustration: 127.]
+
+[Illustration: 128.]
+
+[Illustration: 129.]
+
+[Illustration: 130.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 130 (_Embroidered Figures_).--They are worked like the
+letters in _point de plume_ and overcast; the dots are worked in knotted
+stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+EMBROIDERY.
+
+[In working the following Embroidery Patterns it will be found advisable
+to trace the design clearly upon tracing-paper with a sharp-pointed lead
+pencil. The pattern thus traced must be perforated with a fine needle in
+a succession of tiny holes, at the rate of about twenty to the inch.
+Those ladies who possess a sewing-machine will find no difficulty in
+accomplishing this. Several thicknesses of paper can be perforated at
+the same time, if required, by any ordinary machine. To transfer the
+traced and perforated design to the fabric to be embroidered, it is only
+necessary to rub a small quantity of powder blue through the holes.]
+
+
+131.--_Insertion in Embroidery_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.
+
+This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch and button-hole stitch.
+The outlines must first be traced and the space filled up with chain
+stitches. To work a leaf, begin at the point, working from right to
+left, making short stitches, and always inserting the needle close above
+the outline and drawing it out below. The holes left for the ribbon to
+pass through are worked in plain button-hole stitch, the dots are worked
+in raised satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 131.--Insertion in Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+132.--_Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 10 and
+16.
+
+The veinings of this pretty insertion must be worked in overcast stitch
+(No. 68, _Embroidery Instructions_), the leaves and flowers in raised
+satin stitch, the scallops in button-hole stitch, and the outer edge of
+the leaves in back stitch (No. 70, _Embroidery Instructions_) with No.
+10 cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 132.--Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+133.--_Cravat End in Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 24, or fine black China silk.
+
+This graceful design is worked in raised satin stitch (see Nos. 76 and
+77, _Embroidery Instructions_) and back stitching, or point Russe. Black
+silk may be introduced at will, and the delicate leaves may be stitched
+in fine black silk, and the flowers embroidered in white, with the
+stamens in black silk.
+
+[Illustration: 133.--Embroidered Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+134.--_Basket Embroidered in Chenille_.
+
+Materials: A basket of fine wicker-work; 1 skein of black chenille, and
+3 of blue chenille.
+
+This small round basket measures seven inches across; it has a cover and
+two handles. The wicker is very delicately plaited, and is ornamented
+with a pattern in chenille which is very easy to work. Upon the cover,
+work in point Russe one large star in blue chenille, with the centre and
+outer circle in black. All round, work small stars in blue chenille,
+with a black stitch in the centre. The position of these stars is shown
+in our illustration. The basket requires no mounting; it is not even
+lined.
+
+[Illustration: 134.--Basket Embroidered in Chenille.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+135.--_Pattern for Collars and Cuffs in Embroidery._
+
+Materials: Muslin, cambric or lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton perfectionné No. 40.
+
+Work the outer circle in long even scallops (see page 90 of _Embroidery
+Instructions_) in raised button-hole stitch; the spray of flowers is
+embroidered in raised satin stitch, the leaves in the same, and the
+rosebud calyx in tiny eyelet-holes. The centres of the roses are
+embroidered in open-work.
+
+[Illustration: 135.--Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+136.--_Cravat End in Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Muslin, Brussels net; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 30.
+
+Tack the traced muslin over the net and work the scallop of the inner
+edge; next the design in the centre must be worked in raised satin
+stitch (see No. 77 in _Embroidery Instructions_). The raised dots are
+also worked in satin stitch (see page 90 of _Embroidery Instructions_).
+Lastly, work the outer edging of round scallops and the lines of raised
+dots, and with a pair of embroidery scissors carefully cut away the
+muslin from the outer edge and from the leaves of the centre pattern.
+
+[Illustration: 136.--Cravat End in Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+137.--_Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c_.
+
+Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton perfectionné No.
+40.
+
+This pretty star should be worked in fine overcast stitch (see No. 68 in
+_Embroidery Instructions_). The centre is worked in raised satin stitch
+leaves round a circle of button-hole stitch, in the middle of which a
+wheel is worked thus:--Slip the cotton under the thick edge and fasten
+it, then cross it over and back so as to make 8 bars, then twist the
+cotton twice round 1 bar; this will bring it to the centre; work over
+and under each of the bars until a thick dot is formed; fasten the
+cotton beneath this, and twist it twice round the bar opposite to the
+first one you worked, and finish off.
+
+[Illustration: 137.--Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+138.--_Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpane_.
+
+Materials: Cashmere, cambric muslin, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 4.
+
+[Illustration: 138.--Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpart.]
+
+This is an embroidery-pattern for a woollen or silk quilted counterpane.
+Such counterpanes generally have a lining which is turned back on the
+right side, and buttoned down at the point of each scallop. The pattern
+is a quilted counterpane of scarlet cashmere; the lining is of fine
+linen. Before embroidering it, make the points for the corners. The
+embroidery is worked in button-hole stitch, overcast, satin, and ladder
+stitch. It can also be worked on fine cambric or muslin, and then the
+embroidered pattern sewn on the piece of linen which forms the cover on
+the wrong side. Make the button-holes as seen on illustration, and sew
+on mother-of-pearl or china buttons.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 139.--Embroidery Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+139.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Collars, Cuffs, &c_.
+
+Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 40.
+
+This pattern is worked in satin stitch, point Russe, and point d'or on
+muslin, cambric, or linen; it is suitable for collars, or cravat ends,
+or handkerchief corners.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+140.--_Handkerchief in Embroidery_
+
+Materials: French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 50.
+
+[Illustration: 140.--Handkerchief in Embroidery.]
+
+Three rows of hem-stitching ornament this handkerchief; the pattern
+forms an insertion within the outer rows, the flowers are worked in
+raised satin stitch, with eyelet-hole centres (see No. 87 of _Embroidery
+Instructions_); the tendrils are worked in overcast stitch; three rows
+of raised dots, in groups of four, are worked on the inner side of the
+last row of hem-stitching. This pattern looks very handsome on a
+broad-hemmed handkerchief.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+141.--_Convolvulus Leaf Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+20.
+
+[Illustration: 141.--Convolvulus Leaf Insertion.]
+
+The convolvulus leaves are worked in raised satin stitch, the veinings
+and stems in overcast stitch, the eyelet-holes in slanting overcast
+stitch. (See No. 69 of _Embroidery Instructions_.)
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+142.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+20.
+
+This simple insertion is worked in raised satin stitch, the stems alone
+excepted; these are embroidered in overcast stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 142.--Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+143 and 144.--_Two Patterns in Embroidery for Trimming Lingerie_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 20, and
+Mecklenburg thread No. 50.
+
+[Illustration: 143 and 144.--Patterns for Trimming Lingerie.]
+
+These patterns are worked in point Russe and stitching; the spots in
+satin and knotted stitch. Illustration 143 is ornamented in the centre
+with lace stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+145 _and_ 146.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.
+
+The two insertions, Nos. 145 and 146, are worked partly in satin stitch,
+partly in open-work embroidery, and are edged on either side with an
+open-work hem.
+
+[Illustration: 145.--Insertion.]
+
+[Illustration: 146.--Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+147.--_Couvrette in Appliqué Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Net, fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 16.
+
+The pattern must be traced on the muslin, which should be tacked on the
+net. The outline of the design must be traced with very small stitches,
+and worked in overcast stitches, as are also the veinings; the dots are
+worked in raised satin stitch; the border is embroidered with satin
+stitch flowers and scallop button-hole stitch. To work appliqué on net,
+see No. 117 of _Embroidery Instructions_.
+
+[Illustration: 147.--Couvrette in Appliqué Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+148.--_Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat_.
+
+Materials for Pincushion: Jaconet muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 16. For toilet mat: White piqué; cotton No. 12.
+
+[Illustration: 148.--Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat.]
+
+The leaves and flowers are worked in satin stitch; the eyelet-holes and
+stems in overcast stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+149.--_Corner for Handkerchief In Point Russe_.
+
+Materials: French cambric, fine China black sewing-silk, or filoselle.
+
+[Illustration: 149.--Corner for Handkerchief in Point Russe.]
+
+Point Russe stitch is made by a succession of back stitches. These
+stitches carefully follow every line of the design, and are worked in
+black China sewing-silk or filoselle. The pattern should be repeated at
+each corner of the handkerchief.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+150 _to_ 152.--_Borders and Insertions_.--_White Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+30, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50; fine black sewing-silk.
+
+[Illustration: 150.--Embroidered Border.]
+
+For the border No. 150, trace first the outlines of the scallop, then
+draw the threads which are to form the wheel in each scallop (take for
+this fine Mecklenburg thread, for the rest embroidery cotton), fasten
+them at the places where they cross each other, and work at these places
+small and large spots in satin stitch. Then work the scallops in
+button-hole stitch; edge each larger spot with button-hole stitch all
+round, and make a row of button-hole stitches for the upper edge of the
+border, and above this a row of herring-bone stitches. The material is
+cut away underneath the wheels.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 151.--Corner in Embroidery.]
+
+[Illustration: 152.--Corner in Embroidery.]
+
+The corner borders, illustrations 151 and 152, are worked in point
+Russe, chain and satin stitch, with fine black sewing silk.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 153--- Cravat End in Embroidery]
+
+153.--_Muslin Cravat_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+50; No. 40 for the edges.
+
+This cravat is worked on fine muslin, embroidered upon both ends in
+raised satin stitch; the scalloped edge is worked in button-hole stitch;
+the bouquet in the centre is worked in appliqué satin stitch--that is,
+the leaves of the rose and the foliage are worked separately on muslin;
+they are then cut out and worked in appliqué (see Nos. 113 and 116,
+_Embroidery Instructions_) upon the cravat, as seen in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+154.--_Sandwich Case_.
+
+Materials: Strip of grey kid; strip of oil silk; 1 skein black silk; 1
+skein red purse silk; 1 hank steel beads; steel button.
+
+This case will be found very useful on the occasion of a journey or
+picnic, as it can be carried in the pocket without any inconvenience.
+
+The case is made of a strip of grey kid, scalloped out at the edges. The
+words "Bon appetit," or "Good appetite," at will, are worked over it in
+overcast with black purse silk and steel beads, the scroll pattern in
+chain stitch with red silk. The back and front of the case are formed of
+the same strip, which is lined with oilskin, and to which narrow
+side-pieces are added to form the pocket. These pieces are lined and
+scalloped out in the same way as the back and front, and then the
+scallops of both sides are joined together, and worked round in
+button-hole stitch with purse silk.
+
+The case is fastened down with a steel button.
+
+If another colour is preferred, the sandwich case can be made of brown
+kid. The scroll pattern should then be worked in rich blue purse silk,
+and gold beads used for the letters, which should be embroidered as
+before in black silk. The edge may be worked in double overcast stitch
+in blue or black silk. A gold button must replace the steel when this
+alteration of colour is made.
+
+[Illustration: 154.--Sandwich Case.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+155.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.
+
+This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch between two rows of
+hem-stitching; a small eyelet-hole is worked in the centre of each
+flower.
+
+[Illustration: 155.--Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+156.--_Cravat End in Raised Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s. embroidery cotton Nos. 50 and
+16.
+
+This pattern is a muslin cravat 32 inches long. The greater part of the
+embroidered ends is worked in satin stitch; the leaves in the bouquet of
+the centre are worked in raised embroidery. (See Nos. 113 and 116,
+_Embroidery Instructions_.)
+
+The dotted lines are raised by taking four threads of the muslin on the
+needle, draw it half out, wind the cotton twice round the point, holding
+it tightly under the thumb, draw the needle out and insert it at the
+place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out where the next stitch
+is to be worked.
+
+[Illustration: 156.--Cravat End in Raised Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+157.--_Lady's Purse_.
+
+Materials: Russia leather; blue silk; black purse silk; blue silk
+soutache; fine gold braid; and gold thread.
+
+[Illustration: 157.--Lady's Purse.]
+
+This purse is embroidered upon Russia leather; an oval-shaped medallion
+is cut out in the centre; a piece of blue silk is gummed on under the
+leather so as to show within the oval; both leather and silk are then
+lined with calico and stretched upon a small embroidery frame. The front
+and back of the purse are made all of one piece, the centre of which is
+the bottom; after the embroidery is completed a piece of leather is
+added on each side to give the necessary fullness. Four flowrets are
+worked over the blue silk, with black purse silk, in raised satin
+stitch, with a dot in gold thread for the centre. The stems are black
+and the leaflets gold. The inner border round the oval medallion is
+worked in gold braid, and the outer one in blue soutache. The network
+upon the leather is formed of threads of black purse silk, fastened at
+every crossing with a stitch of gold thread; the outer border round this
+network is formed entirely of gold braid. On the opposite side of the
+purse initials may be worked in black and gold, over the blue silk oval
+medallion.
+
+The purse is lined with brown watered silk, and mounted with a clasp of
+gilt steel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+158.--_Table-Napkin Ring_.
+
+Materials: Crimson cashmere; _toile cirée_; 1 reel each of white, black,
+green, blue, and yellow Chinese silk.
+
+[Illustration: 158.--Table-Napkin Ring]
+
+Stretch a strip of cashmere of a bright shade of crimson over a piece of
+_toile cirée_, and work the pattern over it in point Russe with fine
+silk. The outer borders have white and black outlines, and leaflets of
+green silk. The stars have black and blue outlines, a yellow cross and
+dots. The figure between the stars is black and yellow.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+159 _and_ 160.--_Knife Basket_.
+
+Materials: Grey American cloth; red cloth; black jet beads and bugles;
+red worsted braid, three-quarters of an inch wide; some strong wire; a
+cigar-box.
+
+[Illustration: 159.--Knife Basket.]
+
+This basket is meant for holding dessert knives. It consists of a common
+cigar-box nine inches and two-fifths long, five inches and four-fifths
+wide, and two inches and one-fifth high, covered inside and out with
+grey American cloth, which is ornamented with embroidery worked in
+appliqué. The seams are made in overcast stitch. The feet consist of
+four pieces of strong wire three inches and two-fifths long. These
+pieces of wire are first covered with wool, and then with jet beads;
+they are then bent into loops, and fastened on at the bottom of the box
+by means of holes bored into it for that purpose. The feet must be
+fastened before covering the inside of the box. The inside of the basket
+is ornamented with an embroidered pattern in appliqué, which must also
+be worked before covering the box. The leaves are made of red cloth, the
+stems and veinings of black bugles. No. 160 shows the pattern in full
+size; the flowers and leaves are edged with light grey purse silk, over
+which small stitches in black silk are fastened at regular intervals.
+Inside the box fasten a deal board covered on both sides with American
+cloth, so as to divide the basket into two compartments, and fasten on
+to this board a handle consisting of a piece of wire seven inches long,
+wound round with beads. The basket is ornamented with ruches of red
+worsted braid; between two box pleats of the ruche a black bugle is
+fastened.
+
+[Illustration: 160.--Knife Basket.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+161.--_Satin Stitch Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Purse silk of two colours, in 4 shades of green and 4 shades
+of red or magenta for the flowers, gold twist.
+
+[Illustration: 161.--Fuchsia Spray.]
+
+This branch is embroidered with purse silk of the natural colours of the
+flowers and leaves, or in different shades of one colour, on silk
+canvas. Fuchsia blossoms are here designed, and should be worked in
+raised embroidery; the stamens to be worked in gold twist.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+162.--_Acacia Spray in Raised Satin Stitch Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Four shades of green purse silk for the leaves; 1 skein of
+brown silk; 3 shades of white or gold silk for the flowers.
+
+[Illustration: 162.--Acacia Spray.]
+
+This spray of acacia is worked in raised satin stitch embroidery; the
+flowers should be carefully shaded, and the veinings should be worked
+before the leaves are embroidered. The flowers may be worked gold
+colour, or imitate the white acacia blossom.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 163.--Tobacco Pouch.]
+
+[Illustration: 164.--Tobacco Pouch.]
+
+163 _and_ 164.--_Tobacco Pouch_.
+
+Materials: Fine crimson cloth; bits of coloured and white cloth for the
+pattern; purse silk of various colours; white kid; brass rings; gimp
+cord; and silk tassels.
+
+This pouch is cut in four pieces, two of which are given in full size;
+the two others must be worked after the same patterns. These patterns
+represent the attributes of a lover of tobacco; they are cut out of
+cloth and worked in appliqué over crimson cloth.
+
+In No. 163 the outer chain stitch border is green. The knot from which
+the different articles are suspended is black, the cigar-case yellow in
+cloth appliqué, the cigars brown in satin stitch. The case is crossed by
+two rows of chain stitch in blue silk, and edged all round with
+button-hole stitch, also blue. The two pipes are of white cloth, edged
+round with yellow silk; the shade is imitated by long stitches of grey
+silk. The upper part of the pouch is of blue cloth, with a white silk
+edging and yellow dots; the under part of brown cloth with a black
+edging and a pattern worked in chain stitch with white; the three
+tassels are embroidered with black and yellow silk.
+
+In No. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the small
+pattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the pipes of
+white cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. The bundle of cigars
+is of brown cloth, shaded with black silk stitches, and fastened on with
+double rows of chain stitch in yellow silk. The cigar-case is of light
+green cloth, edged with white; the Grecian pattern and dots are
+embroidered over it with white silk also.
+
+To make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them together by
+seams, which are hidden under yellow soutache; cut out also and join
+in the same way four pieces of white kid for the lining, and fasten it
+on to the crimson cloth at the top only. Sew small brass rings round the
+top, and pass a double piece of crimson silk cord through them. Add silk
+tassels of various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each of
+its four corners.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+165.--_Insertion_
+
+Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.
+
+[Illustration: 165.--Insertion.]
+
+This strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat trimmings. It
+is worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in overcast stitch; the
+circles can be filled up with lace stitches or with wheels, or the
+pattern may be worked upon Brussels net and the linen cut away.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+166.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, Workbaskets, &c._
+
+Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glacé silk; gold
+beads.
+
+This pattern is worked in French embroidery and point Russe, with
+coloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. The thimble, cotton, and ribbon
+are worked in appliqué with glacé silk. The colours are chosen according
+to personal taste. The thimble is ornamented with small gold beads. A
+bead is placed in the centre of each pair of scissors to imitate the
+screw.
+
+[Illustration: 166.--Pattern for Needlebook, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+167.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, &c._
+
+Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads.
+
+The shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers in
+point Russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double overcast; the
+interior is filled with a netting worked in chain stitch or dotted
+stitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and beads; the ribbon is
+embroidered in appliqué, with a contrasting shade of silk ribbon.
+
+[Illustration: 167.--Pattern for Needlebook, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+168 _and_ 169.--_Travelling Bag_
+
+Materials: 20 inches of Java canvas; single Berlin wool of 2 shades of a
+pretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white; floss silk--white,
+brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue,
+and grey; steel beads; brown silk fancy braid.
+
+[Illustration: 168.--Travelling Bag.]
+
+This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it is very
+prettily worked. Besides the engraving showing the bag when completed,
+the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. This bouquet is also
+worked upon the Java canvas. For each petal the white wool is passed
+several times from one stitch of the canvas to another till the required
+thickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is worked at the point with white
+silk. The centres are filled up in point d'or with 2 shades of yellow
+silk. The buds are made like the petals, but with 3 stitches of white
+silk at the point instead of 1. The leaves are worked in 2 shades of
+green wool with 1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems are
+embroidered in overcast with light brown wool. The scroll-pattern border
+round the bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steel
+beads.
+
+[Illustration: 169.--Bouquet for Travelling Bag.]
+
+The remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured purse
+silk. The 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk, by
+inserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas. When you
+have worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the other, work on
+either side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines of yellow silk,
+which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the Java canvas being
+covered by each stitch. Next to the inner yellow outline comes a border
+worked over two strips of the canvas, in slanting stitches; this border
+is alternately blue in one square and grey in the other. A star is
+embroidered in point Russe in the centre of each square; it is grey in
+the blue squares and blue in the grey; a steel bead is placed in the
+middle of each star. The small crosses between the squares are worked in
+cerise. The outer border of the work is composed of a piece of black
+soutache, edged with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. The front
+and back pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. The side
+pieces are made of plain Java canvas. The embroidered part measures 14
+inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined with
+light brown silk, and made up with a steel clasp.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+170.--_Embroidery Trimming for Muslin Bodices_.
+
+Materials: Fine muslin; fine black silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 24.
+
+This pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a trimming.
+It is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked in button-hole
+stitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered with loose
+button-hole stitch in black silk. The feather-like branches are worked
+likewise in black silk in herring-bone stitch. The white spots are worked
+in raised embroidery. The large oval openings through which a narrow
+ribbon velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches:
+
+[Illustration: 170.--Trimming for Bodices.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+171, 172, _and_ 173--_Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery_.
+
+This handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin; if
+lined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. The patterns,
+which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked in point d'or;
+the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine double overcast. The
+flower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear raised on illustration on
+account of the dark shadows, are worked separately and sewn on at the
+corresponding places. No. 172 shows the wing of a bird, No. 173 a
+rose-leaf somewhat increased in size; the former is worked entirely in
+button-hole stitch, or trimmed with a ruche of coloured ribbon. This
+pattern may also be worked on glacé silk with purse silk.
+
+[Illustration: 171.--Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery.]
+
+[Illustration: 172.--Wing of Bird.]
+
+[Illustration: 173.--Rose Leaf.]
+
+[Illustration: 174.--Pattern for Glove Box.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+174 _and_ 175.--_Glove Box_.
+
+Materials: 15 inches of French blue cashmere; silks of various colours.
+A shape in bamboo cane, painted brown and varnished.
+
+[Illustration: 175.--Glove Box.]
+
+The ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. It is
+embroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. Part of the
+embroidery pattern is given in full size. All the outlines are worked in
+overcast, the stitches being made rather long and slanting, and the
+small leaves are each composed of one stitch, as in point Russe. The
+leaves are alternately red and yellow upon a green stem; the scalloped
+outline which has no leaves is red. The pine patterns are worked in
+satin stitch--the centre one is green, edged with red; the side ones are
+pink, edged with red; the small wing-like figures are black, edged with
+maize; the diamond, maize, edged with black, with an outer rim of maize.
+In the round pattern the centre is pink; the edge red, with red and
+yellow leaves; the 3 outer circles are successively white, green, and
+red; at the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow,
+the side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green.
+
+The strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk, slipped
+through the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined together at the
+side by a seam. The cover is lined with plain blue cashmere, upon which
+initials might be embroidered at discretion. The four corners are
+ornamented with pretty silk tassels, of colours to match with the
+embroidery. To fasten the box, sew on a blue ribbon to the cover, and
+one to the box.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+176 _and_ 177.--_Hanging Letter Case_.
+
+Materials: Crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and fine
+gold bouillon.
+
+No. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size, No. 177
+the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full size.
+
+The letter case is composed of two parts. The larger part is 11 inches
+long, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with a pattern
+in gold soutache, and the word LETTERS or LETTRES embroidered in gold
+bouillon; underneath there is a pattern embroidered in oval white satin
+beads, edged round with fine white chenille; the scroll pattern is
+embroidered in gold bouillon.
+
+The second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and forms
+the pocket which contains the letters. The centre flower is composed of
+11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another white bead is
+placed in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon. The other flowers
+are also composed of white satin beads, edged with gold bouillon.
+
+[Illustration: 176.--Hanging Letter Case.]
+
+[Illustration: 177.--Pattern for Embroidered Letter Case.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+178.--_Embroidered Edging_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+24
+
+[Illustration: 178.--Embroidered Edging.]
+
+This edging is worked in broderie Anglaise or overcast stitch; the edge
+in scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in raised satin
+stitch. The stems are worked in slanting overcast stitch (No. 122,
+_Embroidery Instructions_).
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+179.--_Border in Oriental Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright red, 2
+shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet.
+
+
+[Illustration: 179.--Border in Oriental Embroidery.]
+
+The four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting colours.
+These ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. The outer row of
+the first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright red. Following the
+same arrangement, the second oval is of two shades of green; the third
+of two shades of blue; and the fourth of two shades of yellow. The
+knotted stitch in the centre is violet. The dots outside the ovals are
+worked in satin stitch, and are alternately red, yellow, violet, and
+blue. The stems are long stitches of black silk. The arabesque patterns
+between those formed of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silk
+of two shades of brown. The colours of the ovals may be varied as much
+as you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns should
+remain the same for the whole of the border.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+180 _and_ 181.--_Embroidery Stars_.
+
+Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton
+No. 40.
+
+These stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen collars
+and cuffs. No. 180 is worked in successive rows of back-stitching, round
+an open wheel; ladder stitch (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_) is
+worked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms the
+edge.
+
+[Illustration: 180.--Embroidery Star.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 181.--Embroidery Star.]
+
+No. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the star is
+filled with lace wheels.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+182 _and_ 183.--_Key Bag_.
+
+Materials: Grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glacé silk; purse silk of
+5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and silver-grey, scarlet, and
+white; grey silk cord; grey glacé silk ribbon.
+
+This bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. The embroidery
+imitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves, and stems, in the
+upper part of which sits an owl, "the
+
+[Illustration: 182.--Key Bag.]
+
+[Illustration: 183.--Key Bag.]
+
+bird of night." The poppies are worked with blue-green purse silk in 5
+shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown silk of 4 shades in
+satin stitch, the colours blending one into the other, as can be clearly
+seen in illustration No. 182. The eyes of the owl are embroidered in
+scarlet and white silk. Illustration No. 183 shows the other side of the
+bag, which is ornamented with steel-coloured silk appliqué figures, in
+the form of a Gothic lock. They are edged with fine grey silk cord. The
+screws of the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery with
+silver-grey silk. After having lined each part, join the two halves of
+the bag with a border of grey glacé silk ribbon, which must, of course,
+continue round the revers. The bag is fastened by means of a loop and
+steel button.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+184 _and_ 185--- _Embroidery Patterns for Trimming Cravats, Bodices,
+Morning Caps, &c._
+
+[Illustration: 184--Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.]
+
+Materials: Muslin or cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 24 for
+lingerie, No. 12 for couvrettes.
+
+These patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for trimming
+various articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares they make
+pretty covers. They can also be embroidered with coloured silk, wool, or
+thread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming couvrettes and toilet
+pincushions. The patterns should be embroidered in satin stitch and
+edged with chain stitch; they can also be worked in button-hole stitch.
+When the pattern is worked on woollen material this material must be cut
+away inside the leaves and spots.
+
+[Illustration: 185.--Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+186 _and_ 187.--_Pen-Wiper in Cloth Appliqué_.
+
+Materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small white, and 4
+red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of cloth; small black
+beads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory handle or figure.
+
+This pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of cloth. No.
+187 is one of these circles seen in full size. There are 4 white and 4
+red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. In the centre of each
+red circle place a white, and in the centre of each white circle a red
+star, and work a cross over it with small round black beads. The
+border, in herring-bone stitch, is worked with gold-coloured purse silk
+on the red, and with black on the white cloth. The centre of the
+pen-wiper is covered with a circle of white cloth larger than the side
+ones, worked in point Russe and point Mexico in black silk. When all the
+circles are prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth,
+placing alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, and
+between each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the edge.
+The work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined with black
+glazed calico, and a
+
+[Illustration: 186.--Pen-wiper in Embroidery.]
+
+small handle of carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in the
+centre. The circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens.
+
+[Illustration: 187.--Full-sized Circle for Pen-wiper.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+188.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton
+No. 30.
+
+[Illustration: 188.--Insertion.]
+
+The flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin stitch
+round an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the stars are
+worked in point Russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which surround each
+flower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished with a row of
+hem-stitching on each side.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+189.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton
+No. 24.
+
+This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch; the dots
+and stems should be worked first, and the leaves afterwards. It is edged
+on both sides with a row of hem-stitching.
+
+[Illustration: 189.--Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+190.--_Cigar Case_.
+
+Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk; gold
+thread.
+
+The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light brown
+Russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in well-raised
+satin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter outlines shown in
+the illustration are worked in gold thread. The border to be worked in
+fine silk cord of the same colour as the leather, with a network of
+black purse silk, stitched with gold at all the crossings. On the
+opposite side of the cigar case
+
+[Illustration: 190--Cigar Case.]
+
+initials may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fine
+leather, and the mountings gilt or steel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+191.--_Wicker Waste Paper Basket_.
+
+Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth fringe; and
+glazed calico.
+
+[Illustration: 191.--Waste Paper Basket.]
+
+The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern. It rests
+upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can be made by
+any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room. The trimming
+consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed calico, and put on
+round the edge; the lower part of the border is trimmed with a woollen
+fringe. The shades selected should correspond with the prevailing
+colour of the room.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 192.--Insertion.]
+
+192.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.
+
+The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole stitch, and
+embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted line is worked in
+raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers which compose the centre
+wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in overcast stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 193.--Embroidered Linen Collar.]
+
+193 _and_ 194.--_Embroidered Linen Collars_.
+
+Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 40.
+
+These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. No. 194 is
+worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see Nos. 81, 82, 76,
+and 73 of _Embroidery Instructions_), and point d'or with white cotton,
+and point Russe with black silk. No. 193 is worked entirely with white
+cotton in button-hole, satin, knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (See
+Nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and 68 of _Embroidery Instructions_.)
+
+[Illustration: 194.--Embroidered Linen Collar.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 195--What-not in the Shape of a Hammock.]
+
+195 _and_ 196.--_What-not_.
+
+Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades of green
+floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of yellow floss silk;
+green chenille; cord and tassels.
+
+[Illustration: 196.--Pattern for What-not (full size).]
+
+This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant to place
+upon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when completed, No. 196
+one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size; it is worked upon fine
+canvas. The violets are in floss silk of three shades of violet, with
+a raised spot worked in yellow silk in the centre, the leaves are worked
+in Berlin wool of various shades of green, and the stems in overcast of
+a light green shade. The pattern is grounded in tent stitch with
+sea-green silk. The hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece
+cut out in cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined
+and quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top with
+green chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the hammock is
+fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off with tassels.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+197.--_Embroidered Handkerchief_.
+
+Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 40.
+
+This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a handkerchief,
+which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn. The design is
+simple, but effective, and very easy to work. If worked on fine French
+cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly tacked upon _toile cirée_.
+The rows of raised dots should be worked first, and then the graceful
+branches of pointed leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots might
+be worked in bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. To
+produce a good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40
+will be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourning
+wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or the
+leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in filoselle.
+
+[Illustration: 197.--Handkerchief Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+198 _and_ 199.--_Two Medallions for a Purse in Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk;
+steel or gold clasp.
+
+These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may be
+employed on a variety of articles.
+
+[Illustration: 198.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.]
+
+[Illustration: 199.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.]
+
+The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satin
+stitch, the branched sprays in point Russe in scarlet and gold, the four
+largest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk.
+Medallion No. 199 is worked entirely in point Russe, and may be
+embroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold,
+or scarlet and black.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+200.--_Work-Bag_.
+
+Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours;
+embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; red
+cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather.
+
+[Illustration: 200.--Work Bag.]
+
+This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The outside
+consists of drab cloth, trimmed with appliqué embroidery. The inside of
+the bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted in
+diamonds. The seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strap
+completes the whole. Cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut the
+satin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. After
+having traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces of
+coloured cloth in appliqué embroidery. The different figures are sewn
+over the centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches,
+with embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in
+chain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a
+pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge must be
+bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. The ends
+of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded and
+lined with red satin; the outside worked in appliqué embroidery like the
+rest of the bag. All the seams are covered with red silk cord. The
+straps are fastened with a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+201 _to_ 203.--_Pattern for Braces_.
+
+Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico.
+
+[Illustration: 201.--Pattern for Braces (full size).]
+
+These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico ornamented with
+embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side with
+loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes in red wool.
+Illustration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. Work
+first the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; work
+loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the
+cross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on
+the tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter
+are then edged with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. The
+vandykes are worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole
+stitch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next
+button-hole stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole
+stitch, repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red
+button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No. 203
+shows another
+
+[Illustration: 102.--Embroidered Braces.]
+
+way of working these braces on fine ribbed piqué. Work any Berlin wool
+work pattern in the common cross stitch over the ribs of the piqué. For
+the vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double
+divided by 3 chain stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 203.--Pattern for Braces (Full size).]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+204.--_Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk_.
+
+Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silver
+brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread.
+
+This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and gold
+thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. The dark
+patterns are worked in appliqué with black velvet, the two other shades
+in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is worked in satin stitch
+with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. The
+border can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is not
+intended to contrast with it. The pattern can also be worked entirely in
+silk with satin stitch. The size of the border may, of course, be
+increased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must,
+in any case, form the centre of it.
+
+[Illustration: 204.--Embroidery Border for a Reading Desk.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 205.--Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.]
+
+205.--_Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 6 and
+No. 12; net and muslin.
+
+The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked over
+net. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the veinings are
+sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cut
+away all round the pattern.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+206.--_Venetian Border._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 12 and
+No. 16; net and muslin.
+
+[Illustration: 206.--Venetian Border.]
+
+This design is elegant and effective, without there being a great deal
+of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening dresses or
+handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over,
+and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the ground
+work.
+
+[Illustration: 207.--Lace Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_207.--Lace Insertion._
+
+Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net.
+
+This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the net;
+the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked in
+overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circle
+previously outlined; the lace stitches in the centre are formed by
+gently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewn
+lightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace stitches
+consisting of fine button-hole stitches, very evenly worked over the
+entire space surrounding the open holes.
+
+To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. This
+pattern may be worked in appliqué by placing muslin over net, sewing all
+the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when finished, carefully
+cutting away the muslin.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+208 _and_ 209.--_Slipper on Java Canvas._
+
+Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle and
+purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; some
+wadding; 2 cork soles.
+
+[Illustration: 208.--Slipper on Java Canvas.]
+
+This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of light
+brown Java canvas, and embroidered in point Russe with green filoselle.
+It is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. The soles are of
+cork. The slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbon
+three-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is
+turned down inside. No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitch
+nearly full size.
+
+[Illustration: 209.--Point Russe Stitch for Slipper (No. 208)]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+210 _and_ 211.--_Medallions in Point Russe_.
+
+Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk.
+
+These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers,
+cushions, borders, &c. They are worked with coloured filoselle in point
+Russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted stitch, on cloth,
+velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of both medallions contrasts
+with the colour of the ground, and must therefore be worked in appliqué
+on the latter with herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border.
+The wreath on No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which
+imitate small blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is left
+to the personal taste of the worker.
+
+[Illustration: 210.--Medallion in Point Russe.]
+
+[Illustration: 211.--Medallion in Point Russe.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+212.--_Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner_.
+
+Materials: French lawn or cambric; fine black silk.
+
+This butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in order
+more closely to imitate etching. It is worked in point Russe and scallop
+stitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in button-hole scallop
+stitch, the stitches being taken very closely together, but not raised
+by the usual method of placing chain stitches beneath the button-hole
+stitches. The outlines and flowers are worked in point Russe, the dot in
+knotted stitch (see No. 73, _Embroidery Instructions_.)
+
+[Illustration: 212.--Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner.]
+
+The initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch, and
+should be worked with great regularity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+213 _to_ 215.--_Pattern for a Couvrette in Appliqué_. (_see pages
+576-7_.)
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 24 and
+30; cambric muslin; Brussels net; flesh-coloured silk; sewing silk of
+the same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue silk; brown silk; gold
+thread.
+
+This style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed covers. It is
+worked in cambric muslin and silk, over Brussels net.
+
+The arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the outlines are
+embroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away all round. The
+medallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon them are cut out of
+flesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon tissue-paper, then upon
+the blue silk; the figures are further fastened upon the medallions in
+overcast stitch with fine silk of a rather darker shade of flesh-colour.
+The scarfs are cut out of bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver and
+arrows and all the other attributes are worked in gold thread; the hair
+in fine brown silk. The edge of the blue silk medallions is worked round
+in button-hole stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when the
+couvrette has to be cleaned. A border in open ladder stitch is worked
+round them (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_). The openings in the
+centre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CROCHET
+
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+[Illustration: A Crochet-Needle]
+
+Cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the materials
+required for working crochet. The needle, whether it be steel or bone,
+must be smoothly polished. The long wooden and bone crochet-needles are
+used for wool; for cotton and silk work short steel needles screwed into
+a bone handle are best. The beauty of the crochet-work depends upon the
+regularity of the stitches, as is the case with every other style of
+needlework. The stitches must be elastic, but if too loose they look as
+bad as if too tight. The size of the needle and that of the cotton or
+wool must correspond; work only with the point of the needle, and never
+move the stitch up and down the needle. The cotton with which you work
+must be of the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes,
+imitation of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes,
+counterpanes, covers, &c., use knitting-cotton. All crochet-work
+patterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds of
+foundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and the
+purl foundation chain.
+
+The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 216.--Plain Foundation Chain.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 216.--Form a loop with the cotton or other material with
+which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for
+knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. The
+crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and
+forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of
+the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the
+cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton
+from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and
+draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast
+off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the
+cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has
+acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made,
+take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left
+hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of
+the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the
+needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop.
+
+
+[Illustration: 217.--Double Foundation Chain.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 217 (_The Double Foundation Chain_).--Crochet 2 chain
+stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st
+chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the
+cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the
+needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last
+stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it
+through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation
+chain is long enough.
+
+
+[Illustration: 218.--Purl Foundation Chain.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 218 (_Purl Foundation Chain_).--* Crochet 4 chain stitch,
+then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert
+the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain
+stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch,
+wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the
+cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding
+the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle,
+and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain
+stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following
+crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they
+are all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make
+a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216),
+and take it on the needle.
+
+
+[Illustration: 219.--Slip Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 219 (_Slip Stitch_).--Draw the needle through the back part
+of a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through the
+back part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round the
+needle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. The
+illustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is left
+quite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to be
+inserted for the next stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration: 220.--Double Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 220 (_Double Stitch_).--These are worked nearly like the
+preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of a
+stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the two
+loops on the needle.
+
+
+[Illustration: 221.--Double Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like the
+preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in the
+following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch of
+the preceding row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 222.--Ribbed Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 222 (_The Ribbed Stitch_).--This stitch is worked backwards
+and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together,
+which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back part
+of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is
+not worked, however, in the following row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 223.--Slanting Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 223 (_Slanting Stitch, double stitch_).--This stitch is
+worked like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round the
+needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in
+the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as
+a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration: 224.--Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 224 (_Cross Stitch_).--This stitch is worked like No. 223
+on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the two
+upper sides of a stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration 225:--Long Double Stitch.]
+
+Illustration 225 (_Long Double_).--For this stitch wind the cotton round
+the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton
+out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off
+together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round
+the needle.
+
+
+[Illustration 226.--Treble Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 226 (_Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are worked as has
+been described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treble
+stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the
+preceding row.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATION 227 (_Long Treble_).--These are worked like treble
+stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the double
+long treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton three
+times round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round the
+needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The
+two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the
+cotton round the needle.
+
+[Illustration: 227.--Long Treble Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 228.--Double Long Treble Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 229.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 230.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (_Cross Treble_).--Illustration 229 shows this
+stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course of
+the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble,
+insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross
+treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the
+cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and
+cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop
+formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the
+needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the
+needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the
+2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the
+third stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2
+loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain
+stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting,
+work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of
+foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown
+by the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble
+stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 231.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 232.--Raised Spots.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 232 (_Raised Spots_).--The grounding on which these spots
+are worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows of
+the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being
+placed between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of double
+stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as
+follows:--1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of
+the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only
+completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble
+stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed
+as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there
+remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see
+illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton
+once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot
+the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at
+intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 233.--Hollow Spots.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 233 (_Hollow Spots_).--The ground is worked in double
+crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist of
+5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5
+stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle
+between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5
+treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1
+stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely
+without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth
+treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the
+cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the
+spot.
+
+
+[Illustration: 234.--Open-work Spots.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 234 (_Open-work Spots_).--These spots are treble stitches
+divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they
+are worked like the raised spots (illustration 232).
+
+
+[Illustration: 235.--Raised Treble Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 235 (_Raised Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are long
+treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown
+across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on the
+same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch
+of the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a row
+in ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the
+treble stitches begin only in the 4th row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 236.--Purl Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 236 (_Purl Stitch_).--These purl stitches imitate a lace
+edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain
+length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in
+the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see
+illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a
+loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.
+
+
+[Illustration: 237.--Purl Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 237 (_Purl Stitch turned upwards_).--Work 1 treble, then 7
+chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch
+downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see
+illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton
+through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3,
+missing 3 stitches under it.
+
+
+[Illustration: 238.--Purl Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 238 (_Purl Stitch turned downwards_).--The chain stitches
+form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain
+stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper
+chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through
+the loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needle
+and cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purl
+stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+CROCHET PATTERNS.
+
+
+239.--_Small Crochet Basket_.
+
+Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of
+pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.
+
+[Illustration: 239.--Small Crochet Basket.]
+
+For the bottom: Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3
+chain, and repeat three times more.
+
+2nd round: Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long
+into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place,
+make 3 chain, and repeat.
+
+3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last
+round.
+
+4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by
+working twice into it.
+
+5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.
+
+For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long
+stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine.
+
+2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1
+chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch
+between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and
+1 chain stitch alternately.
+
+3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into
+each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way,
+then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in
+length, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted over
+wire.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+240 to 243.--_Couvrette in Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 10, and
+steel crochet needle.
+
+This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles representing
+dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242 shows one of these
+large circles in full size, No. 241 one of the small circles placed in
+the spaces between the larger ones, No. 243 part of the border, and No.
+240 the couvrette when completed, but in reduced size.
+
+For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it into a
+circle.
+
+1st round: 30 stitches of double crochet over the circle of chain
+stitches.
+
+2nd round: 36 stitches of double crochet.
+
+3rd round: 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1. 4th round:
+
+[Illustration: 240.--Couvrette in Crochet.]
+
+The same as the preceding--the 1 double always on the 3rd chain.
+
+5th round: Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the centre stitch of
+each loop.
+
+6th to 12th round: The same as the 5th, close double crochet, increasing
+in the centre of each small scallop, which forms the 18 raised petals of
+the dahlia.
+
+13th round: Here begins the open-work border round the dahlia. Work 1
+double between 2 petals, taking together the 2 centre stitches, 1 double
+in the next, 5 chain. There will be 18 loops of 5 chain in the round.
+
+14th to 17th round: 1 double in centre of each loop, 5 chain between.
+18th round: 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1 treble in next
+loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3 double, with 3 chain
+between each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same all round, and the large
+circle is completed. Six of these are required.
+
+[Illustration: 241.--Showing one of the small Circles full size of No.
+240.]
+
+For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it into a
+round.
+
+1st round: 16 stitches of close double crochet.
+
+2nd round: 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times.
+
+3rd round: 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double between. This
+completes 1 of the 6 small circles placed round the large ones in the
+centre of the couvrette. The 6 that are placed between the 5 other large
+circles have 1 more round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in the
+centre of 1 scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3
+chain between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round.
+
+[Illustration: 242.--Showing one of the large Circles full size of No.
+240.]
+
+When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen in
+illustration 217, and work the border as follows:--
+
+1st round: 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a small circle, 8
+chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble in 3rd trefoil, 8
+chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1 long treble in 1
+trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the 4 next trefoils of
+the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain, 1 long treble in the
+last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain. Repeat all round.
+
+2nd round: 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first stitch of last
+round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain between next stitch.
+Repeat from *.
+
+3rd and 4th rounds: The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble always in 1 chain.
+
+5th round: In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain between the 2nd and
+3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all round.
+
+6th round: The same as the 5th.
+
+7th round: 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of the treble, 6
+chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the couvrette.
+
+[Illustration: 243.--Border for Couvrette.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+244.--_Star in Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 80, or with
+No. 8 or 10 for couvrettes.
+
+A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty strips of
+insertion. For this purpose they should be worked with fine cotton. They
+may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and cravats, the material
+being cut away underneath. If worked with crochet cotton No. 8 or 10,
+they will make nice couvrettes, bed-quilts, &c.
+
+[Illustration: 244.--Star in Crochet.]
+
+The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70 stitches, and
+join it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work 1 extra long
+treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle under the chain,
+then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2 extra long double, miss
+4, and work 1 double, inserting the needle _under_ the 5th. Repeat 13
+times from * Fasten off, and for the centre of the star work as
+follows:--
+
+1st round: * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double in the next 7
+chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus forming 1 loop. Repeat
+from * 5 times more.
+
+2nd round: 12 double on the first loop of chain of the first branch, 1
+double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip the stitch which is
+upon the needle in one of the stitches of the foundation chain of the
+outer circle, work 1 double in the first of the 2 chain last made, then
+12 double in the remaining loop of chain of the branch, and 1 double at
+the bottom of the branch. Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre star
+must be joined on to the outer circle at regular distances.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+245.--_Crochet Silk Bag over Rings_.
+
+Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse
+twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and
+strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left;
+rings.
+
+Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten
+off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ring
+and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring,
+and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work
+over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the
+rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in
+the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in
+the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab
+with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate
+colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to
+the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join
+the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the
+second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring
+to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one
+opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the
+other 5 in the same way.
+
+[Illustration: 245.--Crochet Silk Bag.]
+
+For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4
+long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the
+centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work
+4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single
+crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into
+the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2
+chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2
+chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the
+diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12
+rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the
+lower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of
+double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st
+round: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work
+12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain
+stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of
+the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that
+is remaining after working the crochet.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+246.--_Crochet Sovereign Purse._
+
+Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few
+steel beads; and a steel clasp.
+
+The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised
+rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel
+beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where
+necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in
+coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the
+beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when
+required.
+
+[Illustration: 446.--Crochet Sovereign Purse.]
+
+The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little
+raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the _upper_
+side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both
+sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except
+where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with
+beads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without
+the least difficulty from the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+247.--_Stars in Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8 or 20.
+
+This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according
+to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.
+
+Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1st
+stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch,
+repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8
+chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work
+(without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the
+centre.
+
+1st branch.--1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a
+purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2
+stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18
+chain.
+
+2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between
+over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double
+over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the
+last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the
+leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the
+second branch.
+
+1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to form
+a circle.
+
+[Illustration: 247.--Stars in Crochet.]
+
+2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitch
+work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in each
+of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st
+round.
+
+3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work in
+double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between,
+then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. Before
+beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of the
+circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained;
+cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of the
+branches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:--
+
+1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purl
+under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet to
+the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make a
+slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five times
+more.
+
+2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual--that
+is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain. Now work 1 trefoil
+(thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1
+double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4
+chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from
+*.
+
+Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+248.--_Crochet Purse over Rings._
+
+Materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of maize
+coarse purse silk.
+
+Work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches; this is the
+centre ring for the bottom of the purse.
+
+[Illustration: 248.--Crochet Purse over Rings.]
+
+Then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take another ring
+and work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6 rings, then work round
+the other half of each ring 19 stitches; and when the 6 are finished,
+join the first to the last to make a circle; sew the maize ring into the
+centre of it, then work over 12 rings with black in the same manner, and
+place them outside the cerise circle. Then work over 16 rings with maize
+colour, and join them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; they
+are to stand up to form the sides of the purse. Work over 16 rings with
+cerise, and these you can join one to each of the former rounds in
+working the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. Work
+over 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the cerise.
+For the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of the ring a
+stitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the stitch joining the
+8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain, repeat. Then work 4 rounds
+of single open crochet.
+
+6th round: * Work a stitch of double crochet and 1 chain alternately,
+missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a long stitch, make 1
+chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another
+long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a long stitch into
+the next loop, repeat from *.
+
+7th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work
+another long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch
+of double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat from * 3 times
+more, miss the next 1 chain, * work a stitch of double crochet into the
+next 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from
+the beginning.
+
+8th round: Join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2
+chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 2 chain, work
+another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a 4th long
+stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double
+crochet into the 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 2
+stitches of double crochet, * work a stitch of double crochet into the 1
+chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the
+beginning.
+
+9th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work
+another long stitch into the same place, repeat the stitches of double
+crochet with 1 chain between, as in last round, then repeat from the
+beginning. 10th and 11th rounds the same as the 9th. Add a tassel at the
+bottom, and strings run into the last row of open crochet complete the
+purse.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 249.--Crochet Brioche Cushion.]
+
+249.--_Crochet Brioche Cushion_.
+
+Materials: 10 skeins of 12-thread fleecy, of six shades of red (these
+should be most of the darker shades); 2 skeins of white ditto; 1 skein
+of white filoselle.
+
+Make a chain of 196 stitches with the darkest shade of red wool, and
+join it into a circle. Work 1 round of raised spots thus:--Turn the wool
+5 times round the needle, insert the needle in 1 chain, and draw it
+through all the loops, then work 1 slip stitch, insert the needle in the
+next stitch, work 1 double, and begin a fresh spot. Continue in the same
+way all round.
+
+2nd round: Divide the round into 7 parts; work 12 spots with the 3rd
+shade of red, always working 1 double between each spot, and taking care
+to place them between those of preceding round: after 12 spots, work 1
+double, then 12 more, and so on.
+
+3rd round: 3rd shade of red, 11 spots, 1 double.
+
+4th round: 4th shade, 10 spots, 3 double.
+
+5th round: 5th shade, 9 spots, 5 double.
+
+6th round: Same shade, 8 spots, 7 double.
+
+7th round: 5th shade, 7 spots, 9 double.
+
+8th round: Same shade, 6 spots, 11 double.
+
+9th round: Same shade, 5 spots, 13 double.
+
+10th round: 6th shade, 4 spots, 15 double.
+
+11th round: Same shade, 3 spots, 17 double.
+
+12th round: Same shade, 2 spots, 19 double.
+
+13th round: Same shade, 1 spot, 21 double. The pattern of raised spots
+being now completed, continue to work with the lightest shade of red in
+double stitches, decreasing once above each pattern, so as to close up
+the circle gradually. The white flowers are worked over the plain part
+of the cushion with white wool, and silk for the petals, and a black dot
+in the centre. The cushion is stuffed with horsehair and lined with
+glazed calico. A round of thick pasteboard is stitched in at the bottom,
+to make it stand firmer.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette._
+
+Materials: For a large couvrette, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's
+Head cotton No. 8; for pincushion covers, mats, and such-like small
+articles, Boar's Head cotton No. 16 or 20.
+
+A pattern of this description is most useful, as it can be converted to
+so many purposes. Counterpanes, couvrettes of every description, mats,
+pincushions, and a thousand other things can all be arranged from the
+design.
+
+[Illustration: 250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette.]
+
+Each circle is made separately, and joined to the others, as the last
+row is crocheted. Begin in the centre; make 8 chain, insert the needle
+in the first, and make * a long treble stitch, then make 3 chain,
+repeat 4 times from *, always inserting the needle in the 1st chain
+stitch, join the last chain to the 5th of the 1st 8 chain to close the
+round.
+
+2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, * 9 chain, turn, work a slip stitch in
+each of the 9 chain; work round the stem thus made in close crochet,
+working 3 stitches in 1 to turn at the point; miss 1 stitch of preceding
+row, work 2 double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more, making 6
+petals in all.
+
+3rd round: Work at the back of the last row, behind the petals; make 1
+petal between each petal in last row, 1 double crochet at the back of
+each, and cut the cotton at the end of the round.
+
+4th round: 2 double crochet at the point of each of the 12 petals, 5
+chain between each petal.
+
+5th round: 2 treble, 5 chain, repeat.
+
+6th and last round: 1 double crochet in the centre of the 1st 5 chain, *
+5 chain, 1 treble in the centre of the next 5 chain, 5 chain, 1 slip
+stitch in the top of the treble stitch, 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in the
+same place, 5 chain, a 3rd slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, 1
+double crochet in the centre of the next 5 chain, repeat from * to the
+end of the round. There should be 12 trefoil patterns in the round.
+
+For the couvrette join the circles together, as shown in illustration,
+in working the last round. As many circles can be added as may be
+required for the couvrette.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+251.--_Crochet Lace_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40 or 60.
+
+This lace produces a very good effect when worked with fine cotton. Make
+a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row entirely in
+double stitch.
+
+2nd row: * 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, miss 1 stitch under
+it; repeat from *.
+
+3rd row: 1 long treble in the 3rd stitch of the preceding row, * 3 purl
+(each consisting of 5 chain, 1 double, in the 1st of the same), 1 long
+treble in the same stitch of the preceding row, 1 purl, miss 3, 3 double
+in the 3 following stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, 1 long treble in
+the 4th stitch; repeat from *.
+
+[Illustration: 251.--Crochet Lace.]
+
+4th row: * 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of the preceding
+row, 1 purl, 2 long treble divided by 3 purl in the middle of the 3 next
+double in the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *.
+
+5th row: * 2 long treble, divided by 3 purl in the middle of the next 3
+double of the preceding row, 1 purl, 3 double in the middle of the next
+3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. Repeat the 4th and
+5th rows alternately till the border is wide enough.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+252.--_Crochet Border_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12, 16, 24,
+or 40.
+
+[Illustration: 252.--Crochet Border.]
+
+This border is suitable for a great variety of purposes, according to
+the size of the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it will make a
+trimming for couvrettes and berceaunette covers; with fine cotton it can
+be used for children's clothes, small curtains, &c. Make a sufficiently
+long foundation chain, and work the 1st row: * 2 treble divided by 3
+chain in the 1st foundation chain stitch, miss 3; repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: * In the 1st scallop of the preceding row, 1 double, 5 treble,
+1 double, then 1 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the
+four), 1 chain, miss under these the next chain stitch scallop; repeat
+from *.
+
+3rd row: 1 treble in the chain stitch on either side of the purl in the
+preceding row, 5 chain.
+
+4th row: * 2 double divided by 7 chain in the two first treble of the
+preceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper parts of the
+stitch), 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these 10 stitches so as
+to form a loop, 4 chain, repeat from *.
+
+5th row: * 1 slip in the middle stitch of the scallop formed by 7 chain
+in the preceding row, 4 treble, 3 chain, 5 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble,
+all these 13 stitches in the loop of the preceding row, so as to form a
+clover-leaf pattern; repeat from *, but fasten the 4th treble with a
+slip stitch on the 10th treble of the preceding figure.
+
+6th row: In the first and last stitch of the 5 middle treble of the
+clover-leaf 1 double, 7 chain between, 7th row: * 1 double in the 2nd
+chain stitch of the scallop which is above the 5 middle treble of the
+clover-leaf, 2 chain, 1 purl (5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), 2
+chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch of the same scallop, 2 chain, 1
+purl, 2 chain, miss one chain of the scallop, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl,
+2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch, 3 chain. 1 double in the
+middle stitch of the following scallop, 3 chain, repeat from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 253.--Crochet Border.]
+
+253--_Crochet Border_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 24, 40, or
+60, according to the article for which it is required.
+
+On a sufficiently long foundation chain work the 1st row: 1 double in
+each chain stitch.
+
+2nd row: Alternately 1 double, 7 chain, miss under the latter 3 stitches
+of the preceding row.
+
+3rd row: 1 treble in each double of the preceding row, 1 double in the
+middle stitch of each scallop, 2 chain between.
+
+4th row: 1 double on each double of the preceding row, 1 treble on each
+treble, 3 chain between.
+
+5th row: 1 double on each treble of the preceding row, 3 chain between.
+
+6th row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row.
+
+7th row: * 1 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, 4 chain,
+miss 1, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, miss 3 stitches, 3 treble
+in the following 3 stitches, 4 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, 3 chain,
+miss 4; repeat from *.
+
+8th row: Repeat regularly 8 treble in the scallop formed of 4 chain in
+the preceding row, 1 double in the middle of the following 3 chain.
+
+9th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 treble, 1
+long treble in next treble but 2, 2 long treble in each of the 2
+following treble, 1 long treble, 2 treble in the next treble, 1 double
+in the next treble but 2, 3 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip), 3 chain
+stitch; repeat from *.
+
+10th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1
+purl, 2 chain, miss 2 under them, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1
+double in the next chain but 1 of the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2
+chain, 1 double in the 2 chain stitch after the purl of the preceding
+row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain; repeat from *.
+
+11th row: In each scallop of the preceding row 2 double (they must meet
+on either side of the purl); they are divided alternately by 5 chain,
+and by a scallop formed of 2 chain, 1 purl, and 2 chain, only in the
+chain stitch scallops which join the two treble figures work no double,
+but 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_254 to 257.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet._
+
+Material: Berlin wool in two colours.
+
+[Illustration: 254.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet.]
+
+The seat and back of this arm-chair are covered with two round
+couvrettes, worked in crochet with Berlin wool of two colours. They are
+fastened on the chair with woollen braid, finishing off with tassels of
+the same colour. Begin each couvrette in the centre with a foundation
+chain of 6 stitches, with the lightest wool; join them into a circle,
+and work the 1st round in the following manner:--12 double.
+
+2nd round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next stitch of the 1st round,
+inserting the needle in the upper part of the stitch; repeat from * 11
+times more; at the end of this round work 1 slip stitch in the 1st chain
+of this round. We shall not repeat any more the repetitions from * to
+the end of the round.
+
+3rd round: * 4 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding
+round; at the end of the round 4 chain.
+
+4th round: 4 double in each scallop of the preceding round.
+
+5th round: Begin to work with the darker wool and crochet slip stitch,
+inserting the needle in the front chain of the stitches of the 4th
+round.
+
+The 6th round is worked once more with light wool, and consists entirely
+of double stitch, worked by inserting the needle at the back of the
+stitches of the 4th round, so that the slip stitches appear raised on
+the right side of the work, and form a round of chain stitches. The
+middle part of the couvrette is then finished.
+
+[Illustration: 255.--Pattern for Arm Chair Border.]
+
+[Illustration: 256.--Border for Arm Chair (254).]
+
+Illustration 257 shows it in full size.
+
+7th round: * 2 chain, missing 1 stitch of the preceding round under
+them, 1 double.
+
+8th round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding
+round.
+
+9th round: 3 double in each scallop.
+
+10th round, like the 5th;
+
+11th round, like the 6th;
+
+[Illustration: 257.--Couvrette for Arm Chair (254).]
+
+12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th rounds, like the 7th--11th;
+
+17th--19th rounds like the 7th--9th.
+
+20th round: Alternately 1 treble with the light wool, 1 treble with the
+dark; but every treble stitch must be cast off with the wool of the
+colour of the next stitch; that is, a light treble stitch with the dark
+wool, and a dark treble stitch with the light wool. Now and then crochet
+2 treble stitches in one stitch of the preceding round, so that the
+couvrette remains perfectly flat.
+
+21st round: 1 double in every stitch.
+
+The 22nd--31st rounds consist of a double repetition of the 7th--11th
+rounds.
+
+The 32nd and 33rd rounds are made in open work like the 7th and 8th
+rounds.
+
+The 34th round is worked in treble stitches like the 20th round. Then
+work the outer border. It consists of chain stitch scallops which are
+worked alternately with dark and light wool. Illustration No. 256 shows
+a part of the border with the treble round in full size. Work from it
+with the light wool 1 double on 1 light treble stitch of the preceding
+round, 5 chain, 1 double, on the next light treble, throw the wool off
+the needle and let it hang over the right side of the work; crochet with
+the dark wool 1 double on the treble stitch between the 2 double of this
+round, leave the wool on the right side of the work; 5 chain, 1 double,
+on the next dark treble. Take the needle again out of the loop, draw the
+wool on to the right side, and work the next chain stitch scallop again
+with the light wool.
+
+Instead of this border, pattern No. 255 may be worked. It consists of 3
+rounds to be worked after the 34th round of the couvrette.
+
+1st round of the border: With dark wool, * 1 double in 1 stitch, of the
+34th round; 1 double, 3 treble, 1 double, in the next stitch; repeat
+from *.
+
+2nd round: With the light wool, * 1 treble, inserting the needle in the
+next treble stitch of the 34th round, thus working over the double
+stitch between the spots of the preceding round; 1 chain.
+
+3rd round * 3 double in each chain stitch of the preceding round. To
+work the 2nd of these 3 double, insert the needle at the same time in
+the upper part of the middle treble of the 1st round.
+
+4th round: Dark wool, * 1 double in each double of the preceding round,
+miss 1, and work 3 treble in the next stitch but one; the last of these
+3 treble is cast off with light wool, miss 1, and continue to work with
+the light wool 1 double in the next stitch but one, miss 1, 3 treble in
+the next stitch, cast off the last with the dark wool, miss 1; repeat
+from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_258 to 260.--Crochet Insertions._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30, 40, or
+60.
+
+[Illustration: 258.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+These insertions are worked with crochet cotton of sizes which depend
+upon the use you wish to make of them. The insertion seen in
+illustration 258 is worked the long way in 8 rows. Make a sufficiently
+long foundation chain, and work the 1st row as follows:--1 slip stitch
+in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 5 chain, miss 3, 1 double in the
+next stitch but 3, repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 1 slip stitch in the middle of the 1st 5 chain, * 3 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.
+
+3rd row: 1 treble in the 1st stitch, * 1 leaf worked as follows: 6
+chain, then without noticing the loop left on the needle 1 long treble
+in the 2nd and 1 in the 1st of the 6 chain; these stitches are not cast
+off separately, but together with the loop left on the needle. Then 5
+chain, miss 7, 1 treble in the 8th stitch, repeat from *.
+
+4th row: 1 double in the 1st of the 5 chain, * 8 chain, 1 double in the
+1st of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.
+
+5th row: * 1 leaf as in the 3rd row, 1 double in the double stitch of
+the preceding row, 5 chain, repeat from *.
+
+6th row: 1 treble in the point of the 1st leaf, * 7 chain, 1 treble in
+the point of the next leaf, repeat from *.
+
+7th and 8th rows: Like the 1st and 2nd.
+
+
+[Illustration: 259.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+The insertion seen in illustration 259 is worked in 6 rows, and is begun
+in the centre on a foundation chain sufficiently long not to be worked
+too tight.
+
+1st row: 4 double in the 1st 4 stitches, * 4 double divided in the same
+way on the other side of the foundation chain, inserting the needle in
+the 1st row into the 2 chain. Illustration 260 shows an insertion which
+imitates darned netting; it is worked on a grounding imitating netting
+with raised figures. The grounding consists of 9 rows. Work on a
+sufficiently long foundation chain the 1st row as follows: 1 cross
+treble in the 1st and 3rd stitch, * 2 chain, missing 2 stitches under
+them, 1 cross treble in the 6th and 8th stitch, repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, miss 4 under them, 1
+double in the 5th stitch, repeat from *.
+
+3rd to 8th rows: 1 double in the middle stitch of every chain stitch
+scallop, 4 chain between. 9th row: Like the 1st. Work from illustration
+square patterns on this grounding, consisting each of 4 leaves; for
+these leaves carry on the cotton taken double in double windings from 1
+double stitch to another, so as to have 4 threads lying close to each
+other; darn these as can be seen in illustration, with single cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 260.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+261.--_Crochet Lace_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30.
+
+[Illustration: 261.--Crochet Lace.]
+
+A particular kind of purl makes this border look very like guipure lace.
+Begin with a foundation chain worked in the following manner:--* 3
+chain, the last of them forms 1 purl; this is made by drawing out a long
+loop on the needle, taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it in
+the chain stitch before the last one, drawing the cotton through it, and
+continuing to work so that the loop out of which the needle has been
+drawn forms 1 purl. All the purl must be equally long; to do this more
+easily the loop may be kept on the needle till a chain stitch has been
+worked in that which comes just before the purl, continue the foundation
+chain, and repeat from *.
+
+1st row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 1 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the nearest purl of the foundation chain; repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 1 stitch
+under it; 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch of the preceding row; repeat
+from *.
+
+3rd row: Like the 1st.
+
+4th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain,
+missing 5 stitches under them; 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *.
+
+5th row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, * 1
+double in the middle of the next 5 chain of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5
+chain, 1 purl, 1 chain; repeat from *.
+
+6th to 9th rows: Alternately like the 4th and 5th rows.
+
+10th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 6 chain, 1 double long treble
+(throw the cotton 3 times round the needle) in the 1st of these chain
+stitches; the stitch is only completed so far as still to leave 2 loops
+on the needle; 1 double long treble in the same chain stitch. This
+stitch is cast off so as to leave in all 3 loops, and the cotton over
+the needle; these loops are cast off together by drawing the cotton once
+through them. This forms 1 leaf, or one-half of the bell-shaped
+patterns. 3 purl, 1 chain, 1 leaf like the preceding one, 1 slip stitch
+in the 1st of the first 6 chain stitches; the other half of the pattern
+is then completed; 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the
+middle stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain,
+1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop
+11th row: 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the following purl, 1 purl (the 3 purl which are
+worked on the 3 purl of the bell-shaped pattern are made in this row and
+in the following one as follows:--Crochet 1 chain after the slip stitch,
+leave it for 1 purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip stitch),
+1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the
+following scallop, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. 12th row: 3 purl on
+the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 3 chain between, 1 purl, 3 chain,
+1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain
+stitches, 1 bell-shaped pattern like those of the 10th row, 1 purl, 3
+chain, 1 purl, 1 chain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+CROCHET D'OYLEYS IN IMITATION OF POINT LACE.
+
+
+262--_D'Oyley No_. 1.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, unite it.
+
+Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 9 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, 1
+double crochet, unite it to the 1st stitch.
+
+Round 2: 3 single crochet up the 3 1st of the chain in last row, *, 5
+long into the loop of 9 chain, 1 chain, repeat from *.
+
+Round 3: 1 long into the 1 chain in last round, 9 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 11 double crochet into the 9 chain in last round, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, 5 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 7: The same as 6th.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 4 chain, repeat from * 5 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 4 long, and 1 double
+crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet over the double crochet in 1st round, 6 chain,
+repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 6 chain in last round 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1
+double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet over the one in 3rd round, 8 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Into the 8 chain 1 double crochet, 8 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 7: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 5th round, 10 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 8: Into the 10 chain 1 double crochet, 10 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 9: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 7th round, 12 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 10: Into the 12 chain 1 double crochet, 12 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 9th round, 14 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 12: Into the 14 chain 1 double crochet, 14 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 13: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 11th round, 14 chain, repeat.
+Work 3 patterns of No. 2 for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it. Into the circle 1
+double crochet, *, 2 long, 3 chain, repeat from * twice more, 2 double
+long, 4 chain, 2 double long, * 3 chain, 2 long, repeat from * twice
+more, 1 double crochet, 7 chain. Repeat from the beginning. In working
+the 2nd pattern, join it to the 1st with the 2nd 3 chain, work 3 leaves
+in this manner, then make only 3 chain, and work a 4th leaf without
+joining it to the 3rd, make 3 chain after 4th leaf, and work a stitch of
+double crochet into last 7 chain, make 3 chain. Work a 5th leaf, and
+join it to the 4th as before, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 7
+chain, 3 chain. Work a 6th leaf in the same way, and join it; but make
+no chain stitch after the 6th leaf. Work 3 patterns of No. 3 for this
+d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 4.--The same as No. 3, only work 4 leaves instead of 6, 2 on each
+side. Work 3 patterns of No. 4 for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 5.--Work the 3 1st leaves of No. 3 This is not repeated in this
+d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 262.--D'Oyley No. 1.]
+
+
+No. 6.--Make a chain of 15 stitches, and unite it. Work into the circle
+1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double, 6 long, 5 chain, 6 double long, 7
+long, 1 double crochet, 7 chain, joining the 7th long stitch to the
+corresponding stitch in 1st leaf, 3 chain. Work the 3rd leaf the same as
+the 1st without joining it to the 2nd, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into
+the 7 chain, 3 chain, work a 4th leaf, and join it to the 3rd, 3 chain,
+and join it to the 1st stitch of double crochet at the beginning of the
+1st leaf. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 7.--Tie a round of cotton about this size O.
+
+Round 1: 20 double crochet into the round.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into successive loops, work 2 into 3rd loop,
+repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 5: Into the 5 chain in last round 2 long, 5 chain, 2 more long
+stitches into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, 5
+chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 8.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round I: 28 double long into the circle.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet between each long in last round.
+
+Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 3 long into the 2 chain, 1 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, 5 chain,
+repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 9.--1st row: Make a chain of 30 stitches, work 1 long stitch into
+the 6th, *, 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat
+from * to the end of the row.
+
+2nd row: 11 chain, *, 1 double crochet on the other side of the chain
+into the centre one of the 3 between the long stitch, 1 chain, turn, and
+work into the 11 chain 3 double crochet and 9 long, 11 chain, repeat
+from * 7 times more, work into the chain stitches at the end 3 loops of
+11 chain with the double crochet and long stitch as before, then work
+the other half of the pattern to correspond. 3rd row: Into the space
+between the long stitches 5 double crochet, 2 chain, repeat. This
+pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 10.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: Into the circle 24 double long, with 1 chain between each.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, 5 chain,
+repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 11.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 20 long into the circle.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet, 6 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 6 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 5: 10
+double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 1 long, 2 long into the next loop, repeat.
+
+Round 7: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. This pattern
+is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 12.--Make a chain of 21 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 30 double
+crochet into the circle. Round 2: *, 21 chain, join it to the 18th, work
+into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2
+long, 7 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long and 1 double
+crochet, 1 single crochet into the 1st double crochet, 3 chain, 4 double
+crochet into the 3 chain, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2
+chain, 4 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3 chain, 4 double crochet into
+the same place, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4
+double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the
+stitches of double crochet at the end, 3 single crochet down the 3 for
+the stem, 9 single crochet into successive loops round the circle,
+repeat from * twice more. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 13.--*, make 9 chain stitches, turn, 1 double crochet into each
+loop, repeat from * twice more, then work round both sides of these 3
+points 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop at the top of each
+point, work twice into the same loop, then 5 chain, 1 double crochet
+into each end, unite the 5th to the last of the centre point of 9. This
+pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 14.--Round 1: * make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, repeat
+from * 4 more times.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet into 6 successive loops, 3 stitches into the
+7th, 1 into each of the next 6 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre 1
+of the 3 in last, 7 chain, miss 6, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. This pattern is
+not repeated.
+
+
+No. 15.--*, make a chain of 19 stitches, unite it, 3 long into
+successive loops, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1
+double crochet into the next loop, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the
+same place, 5 chain, work into successive loops 1 double crochet, 2
+long, 3 double long, 3 long, unite the last to the first, 9 chain,
+repeat from * once more, then 5 double crochet into the 5 1st of the 9
+chain, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each, and 1 into each of the 4
+remaining of the 9 chain. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 16.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, *, work into successive loops 2
+double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, 2 more double crochet into the
+same loop as the last, repeat from * once, make a chain of 24 stitches,
+unite to the 20th, work into the circle, *, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long,
+repeat from * 12 times, work into the 3 chain 1 long, 3 chain, work
+another long into the same place, repeat, join the last with 1 single
+crochet to the last of the 24 chain, 2 double crochet over the 2 of the
+leaf, 7 long into successive loops, 4 double long into successive loops,
+4 long into the next loop, and 1 long into the next. This pattern is not
+repeated. When all these pieces are done, join them as shown in the
+engraving, sewing them firmly together with the same cotton, then work
+an edging round in the following manner:--1st row: 1 double long into
+the 4 chain at the point of the leaf of No. 4 pattern, 7 chain, 1 double
+long into the 2nd 3 chain in the same leaf, 8 chain, 1 double long into
+the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 15 chain, 1 long
+into the 4 chain of No. 6 pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of
+the next leaf in the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain
+from the join of the 11th pattern, 6 chain, 1 single crochet into the
+2nd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd
+5 chain from the last, 6 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the
+last, 12 chain, work into the 2nd 5 chain from the join of the 7th
+pattern 1 long, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 5 chain, 9
+chain, 1 long into the next 5 chain, 8 chain, 1 double crochet in the
+1st 3 chain from the join of 4th pattern, 11 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 6 chain, 1
+double crochet into the last 3 chain of the same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 3 chain of No. 5 pattern, 6 chain, 1 long into the 7
+chain between the leaves of the same pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the
+next 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of the 3rd leaf of
+the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 of double
+crochet from the join of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the
+centre of the 2nd 5 double crochet from the last, 11 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 2nd 5 of double crochet from the last, 12 chain, 1
+double crochet into the 7 chain of 15th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 6th long stitch of the same leaf, 11 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the end of the stem of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double long
+into the 1st 3 chain of the 4th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double long into the
+last 3 chain of the same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3
+chain of the 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 3 chain of No. 16
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of the same pattern from
+the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the
+10th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 12
+chain, 1 double crochet into the centre of the 7 of double crochet in
+12th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 5 double crochet of same
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain in centre of same
+leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 8th
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last,
+10 chain, 1 double long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of single,
+13 chain, and join it to the double long stitch at the beginning of the
+row. 2nd row: *, 12 chain, and unite it, 1 chain to cross, and on the
+other side into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3
+chain, 2 double long, 4 chain, then work down the other side to
+correspond, 8 double crochet into successive loops of the foundation,
+repeat from *, joining the leaves in the 1st 3 chain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_263.--D'Oyley No. 2._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2
+double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet, 2 double crochet into the next loop, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 9 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 7: 9 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 5th of
+the 9 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double
+crochet, and repeat.
+
+Round 8: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 9 in last round, 11
+chain, repeat. Round 9: 15 double crochet into the 11 chain in last
+round, repeat. Round 10: 15 double crochet into successive loops,
+beginning on the 8th of the 15 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the last double crochet, repeat. Round 11: 1 double crochet into
+the centre one of the 15 in last round, 17 chain, repeat. Round 12: 21
+double crochet into the 17 chain in last round.
+
+[Illustration: 263.--D'Oyley No. 2.]
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: *, 7 chain, 1
+double crochet into the circle, repeat from * twice more.
+
+Round 2: 12 long into the 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 2 long into each loop.
+
+Round 4: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 2 long into the 2 chain in last round, 1 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 5 chain, repeat.
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: Into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double long, 4
+chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 3: 2 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 long and repeat, 4 long at the point,
+finish with a single stitch, 3 chain, and repeat this once more.
+
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, chain of 15 and unite
+it, chain of 13 and unite it, work 6 double crochet into successive
+loops, beginning on the 1st of the 1st loop of 13, 3 into the next loop,
+and 1 into each of the 6 next, 1 double crochet into each of the 1st 7
+of the loop of 15, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 7, 1 double
+crochet into each of the 6 1st of the next loop of 13, 3 into the next,
+1 into each of the next 6.
+
+2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+
+No. 5.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: Into the circle 3 double crochet, 3 long, 3 double long, 5
+treble long, 3 double long, 3 long, 3 double crochet.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet into each of the 9 1st loops, 2 into each of
+the 2 next, and 3 into the next, 2 into each of the 2 next, and 1 into
+each of the 9 next. Round 3: 1 long, *, 3 chain, 1 long into the next
+loop, repeat from * at the end, unite the last to the 1st stitch, 9
+chain, repeat from the beginning; in uniting the last stitch of the 2nd
+leaf, take up the centre stitch of the 9 chain with it, make 5 chain,
+and work a 3rd leaf in the same manner; in uniting the last stitch of
+the 3rd leaf, take up the last of the 5 chain with it, make 9 chain,
+turn, and work 1 double crochet into each, join the last to the last of
+the 5 and 9 chain stitch.
+
+
+No. 6.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 5 chain, repeat 5 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet over the 1st double crochet in last round, 7
+chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 7 chain in last round 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2
+double crochet, and repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last round, 11
+chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Into the 11 chain in last round 3 double crochet, 9 long, 3
+more double crochet, repeat.
+
+
+No. 7.--1st row: Make a chain of 20 stitches. 1 long into the 15th, *, 2
+chain, miss 2 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * to the end of
+the row.
+
+2nd row: Turn, into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double
+crochet, repeat this to the end, then into the 5 chain 1 double crochet,
+2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, work the other side to
+correspond.
+
+3rd row: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last row, 7
+chain, and repeat to the point, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the
+double long, work the other side to correspond. 4th row: Into the 7
+chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single into the last double crochet,
+4 more double crochet into the same place, repeat.
+
+
+No. 8.--1st row: 1 chain of 7 stitches, 1 double crochet into each of
+the 6 1st, 3 stitches into the 7th, work on the other side of the chain
+to correspond. 2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+3rd row: 5 double crochet into the 3 chain, repeat.
+
+
+No. 9.--The same as No. 3 in the 1st d'oyley, only 5 leaves instead of
+6, 2 on each side, and 1 at the end; 2 of these will be required for
+this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 10.--Work the 2 1st leaves of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley; 3 of these
+will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 11.--Work only 1 leaf of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley. This is not to be
+repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 12.--The same as No. 4 in 1st d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 13.--The same as No. 5.
+
+
+No. 14.--The same as No. 8 in 1st d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 15.--The same as No. 10.
+
+
+No. 16.--The same as No. 11 in the 1st d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 17.--The same as No. 2 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required.
+
+
+No. 18.--The same as No 6 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required.
+When all these pieces are done, sew them firmly together, and work the
+edging round in the following manner:--1 double crochet into the 1st 4
+chain of 9th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of
+same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf,
+10 chain, 1 double crochet in the 4 chain of same leaf, 8 chain, 1 long
+into the 4th of the 5 chain, from the joining of 15th pattern, 4 chain,
+1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5
+chain from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the last 3 chain of 10th
+pattern, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 9
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long
+into the 1st double crochet from the join of No. 6 pattern, 9 chain, 1
+long into the next stitch of double crochet after the long stitch, 16
+chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of 14th pattern, 8
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9
+chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of double crochet,
+9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into
+the 4 chain of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3
+chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from the join
+of 17th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 14 chain of same
+pattern, 14 chain, 1 long into the 4th 5 chain from the join of 16th
+pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 6
+chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the
+last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3
+chain of 2nd leaf, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of
+2nd leaf, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 10th
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of same pattern, 6
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 11 chain, 1
+double crochet into the 4 chain of 11th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the last 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the
+centre 3 chain of 1st leaf of 12th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf same pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 4 chain of same leaf, 10 chain, 1 long into the 5th 3 chain
+from the join of the 3rd pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd
+3 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain,
+1 long into the 1st 14 chain from join of 17th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long
+into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 10 chain, and unite. 2nd row:
+The same edging as to 1st d'oyley.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+264.--_D'Oyley No. 3._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 3 in same
+d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 4 in same d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 5,
+2 patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 7, 1 pattern
+from No. 8; and 1 from No. 10 in same d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 11 in
+1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3
+in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 9 in same d'oyley, and 2 from No.
+10.
+
+Then 1 pattern in the following manner:--Round 1: Make a chain stitch of
+12 stitches, 1 double crochet, 10 long into successive loops, 1 double
+crochet, 1 double crochet at the point, and work down the other side to
+correspond.
+
+Round 2: 2 long into each loop.
+
+Round 3: 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 3rd round, 5 chain,
+repeat.
+
+Work 1 pattern in this way, 1 chain of 14, 1 double crochet into each, 5
+chain, 1 double crochet into the last double crochet, turn, 6 double
+crochet into the circle, with 3 chain between each, into each 3 chain, 5
+long, turn, 1 double crochet between each of the 5 long, with 6 chain
+between each double crochet, turn, into the 1st double crochet 1 long, 2
+chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 treble long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2
+chain, 1 long all into the same place, 1 double crochet into the 6
+chain. Repeat this 5 times more, then work down the 7 of 14, 7 long, and
+7 of single crochet. The edging to be the same as in the former
+d'oyleys. The 1st round of the edging takes up so much space to write,
+that we think it better to leave it to the judgment of the worker. It
+will be seen by the engraving when it is necessary to work a double long
+or long stitch, or a stitch of single or double crochet, and the number
+of chain stitches between must be just sufficient to make the circle
+perfect. The best way is to cut a round of blue paper and place them on
+it from the engraving, then sew them together, and tack them to the
+paper, and work the 1st row of the edging before removing the paper.
+
+[Illustration: 264.--D'Oyley No. 3.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+265.--_D'Oyley No. 4._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Work 3 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 1 pattern
+from No. 4, 1 pattern from No. 5 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 6,
+and 1 from No. 8 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley,
+and 1 leaf from No. 3 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 11 in 2nd
+d'oyley, and the following pattern.
+
+
+No. 1.--Make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 29 double
+crochet into successive loops, turn, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 2 double
+long, 8 treble long into 4 loops, 8 double long, 9 long, 4 double
+crochet, 3 chain, work down the other side to correspond, then 1 double
+crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all round.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 2 double crochet
+into successive loops, * 2 chain, miss two loops, 1 long into the next,
+repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 3 double crochet into
+successive loops, 1 double crochet into every loop on both sides. Next
+round: * 5 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet, 3 long, miss 2
+loops of the foundation, 1 double crochet, repeat from * at the point,
+miss only 1 loop, work 2 patterns of this number.
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 36 stitches, turn, miss 2 loops, 2 long, *, 1
+chain, 3 long, repeat from * 3 times, 1 double crochet, turn, *, 4
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st chain stitch, repeat from * 3
+times, at the point make 5 chain instead of 4, work down the other side
+to correspond, turn, and into each of the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 7
+long, and 1 double crochet, at the point 10 long instead of 7, 2 double
+crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 28, turn, miss 12 loops, 1 single
+crochet, then into the circle 20 long, turn, 1 double crochet, 5 chain,
+miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain in last
+row, 5 chain, repeat, turn, into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 7 chain,
+repeat, turn, into the 7 chain 1 double crochet, 1 long, 7 double long,
+1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem, 1 double crochet,
+1 long, 4 double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 1 chain of 14, turn,
+miss 3 loops, 10 long, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, turn, 1
+double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, into the 3 chain 1
+double crochet, 5 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem in
+double crochet.
+
+
+[Illustration: 165.--D'Oyley No. 4.]
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: Into the
+circle 16 long. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop, 3 chain after
+each. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, repeat. Round
+4: 4 long into the 3 chain, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet, make 3
+chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. *, for the leaves, 1 chain of 22, turn, 4
+double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, 1 chain
+to cross the stem, on the other side 1 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double
+long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 2 double crochet at the point, work down
+the other side to correspond, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1 chain of
+8, repeat from *, 1 chain of 12, and unite it to the 3 chain of the
+round, turn, 12 double crochet down the stem, work another leaf in the
+same manner, then work a stem of 8, and make another leaf the same as
+before, finish with a stem of 8.
+
+
+No. 5.--Round 1: Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it, 1 double
+crochet, miss 3 loops, 12 chain, repeat twice more. Round 2: Into the 12
+chain 2 double crochet, 13 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 2
+double crochet into successive loops, 13 long into successive loops, 2
+double crochet into successive loops, repeat. Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain,
+miss 3 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 2 double crochet, 5
+long, 2 double crochet, repeat.
+
+
+No. 6.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 double
+crochet into each loop. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop. Round
+3: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. Round 4: 1
+long, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 3 double
+crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 3 more
+of double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. Round 6: 1
+long into the 4 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 7: Into the 7 chain 4
+double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet,
+4 more double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. When all
+these pieces are done sew them together, as shown in the engraving, and
+work the edging to correspond with the other d'oyleys.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+266.--_D'Oyley No. 5._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and
+1 skein of fine embroidery cotton, by the same makers.
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 5 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 7 chain 11 stitches of double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 11, 9 chain, miss 5 loops,
+1 double crochet into the next, 9 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 9 chain 13 double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 13, 7 chain, miss 3 loops,
+repeat.
+
+Round 6: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, and repeat.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 7 times more.
+
+Round 2: 6 chain, miss the 1st, then work into successive loops 2 double
+crochet and 3 long, 1 double crochet into the 1 double crochet in 1st
+round, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 5 chain, and repeat.
+
+Round 4: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double
+crochet, 3 long, 1 double long, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain,
+repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in the 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Same as 4th.
+
+Round 7: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 5th round, 6 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 8: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double
+crochet, 3 long, 2 double long.
+
+Round 9: Same as 7th. Round 10: Same as 8th. Two of these patterns will
+be required for this d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 266.--D'Oyley No. 5.]
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 16, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next,
+repeat.
+
+Round 2: 6 double crochet into successive loops, 5 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the last double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3rd of the 6, 13 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 long and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each.
+
+Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 1 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the next chain, 5 chain, work another double crochet into the same
+place, 1 chain, repeat.
+
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 6 times more.
+
+Round 2: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double
+crochet, 3 long, and 2 double long, 1 double crochet into the last of
+the 5 double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet at the top of the point, 4 chain, miss 1 loop,
+1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet
+into the next, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1 in last round. Work
+the other side of the point to correspond. Two of these patterns will be
+required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 5.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops, 5 double
+crochet and 2 long, miss 1 of the last round, work 4 double crochet into
+successive loops, repeat 3 times more, at the end of the round work 4
+more double crochet.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all, round the 4
+points and 2 stitches beyond the 4th, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into
+each of the 7, finish the round with 3 chain and 1 double crochet as
+before.
+
+
+No. 6.--Make a chain of 5 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 4 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, repeat till 5
+double crochet are done, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: Same as 2nd.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 3rd round, 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Same as 2nd.
+
+Round 7: Same as 5th.
+
+Round 8: Same as 2nd, only 4 chain instead of 3.
+
+Round 9: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 7th round, 8 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 10: The same as 8th, only making 5 chain instead of 4. Four of
+these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 7.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat twice more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, 11 chain, work
+2 more leaves in the same way, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 4
+chain, repeat round 2 sides of the leaf, 3 chain, repeat the stitch of
+double crochet and 4 chain round 2 sides of each leaf, joining them with
+3 chain. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 8.--1st row: Make a chain of 14 stitches, miss the 1st, and work
+into successive loops 5 double crochet, 5 long, 3 double long, turn. 2nd
+row: 2 double long into each of the 3, 9 long into successive loops, 5
+long into the double crochet at the point of the leaf, 9 long into
+successive loops, 6 double long into the next 2 loops, 9 double long
+into the end of the 1st row, unite the last to the first double long in
+2nd row. 3rd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. No
+loop to be missed at the point, then work with the embroidery cotton a
+smaller leaf on it in satin stitch, raising it first with the cotton.
+
+
+No. 9.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 20 long into the circle.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet, taking both sides of the loop, 9 chain, miss
+1 loop, repeat.
+
+Round 3: Double crochet into the centre of the 9 chain, 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 7 chain of last row 1 double crochet, 1 long, 3
+double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, then work 2 patterns from
+No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns with 3 leaves
+from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns with 2 leaves, and 1 pattern with
+1 leaf, work 3 patterns from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley.
+
+When all these patterns are done join them as shown in the engraving,
+and work the edging as directed in the former d'oyleys.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+267.--_D'Oyley No. 6_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, and 1 into the next, repeat.
+
+Round 3: Increase to 30 double crochet.
+
+Round 4: 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, 5 double crochet,
+and repeat 5 times more.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 5 in last round, 11
+chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 7: 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st, 12 double crochet, and
+repeat.
+
+Round 8: 1 double crochet into the 6th of the 12, 15 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 9: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 10: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 1 double
+crochet, 2 long, and 3 double long, miss 5 loops of the last round, work
+1 double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in last round, miss 1 loop, 1
+double crochet into the next, *, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat from * 4
+times more, repeat from the beginning of the row.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 30 double crochet into the circle.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet, 13 chain, miss 5 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd of the 5 chain,
+miss 1 loop, repeat. Four patterns of this number will be required for
+this d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 267.--D'Oyley No. 6.]
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 11 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 3 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 11 chain, *, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 1st chain, repeat from * twice more, 3 more double
+crochet, repeat from the beginning of the row.
+
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 6, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 long, 4 chain, repeat 5 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 4 chain in last row 1 long, 4 chain, work another long
+into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 3: Into the 2 chain 3 double crochet, into the 4 chain 1 double
+crochet, 11 chain, work another double crochet into the same place,
+repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 11 chain 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the 7, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into
+the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet into
+the centre one of the 3 in last round, 2 chain, repeat; then work 2
+patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns
+from No. 4, 3 from No. 6, and 1 each from Nos. 11, 13, and 14 in 1st
+d'oyley, 1 pattern from each of Nos. 3 and 4 in 2nd d'oyley, 2 patterns
+from No. 2 in 5th d'oyley, and 1 pattern each from Nos. 4 and 6 in the
+5th d'oyley. Sew these pieces firmly together as shown in the engraving,
+and add the edging as before.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+268.--_D'Oyley No. 7._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and
+1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.
+
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 16 stitches and unite it.
+
+1st round: 2 double crochet into each loop.
+
+2nd round: 1 double crochet into each loop.
+
+3rd round: 1 double crochet, 9 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat.
+
+4th round: Into the 9 chain 11 double crochet.
+
+5th round: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+6th round: Into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the one double crochet, work another double crochet into the 2
+chain, 2 double crochet into the next 2 chain, repeat.
+
+7th round: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 2 in last round, 13
+chain, repeat.
+
+8th round: Into the 13 chain 11 double crochet, repeat.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each,
+make a chain of 15 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make a
+chain of 13 stitches, 1 double crochet into each.
+
+2nd row: 1 double crochet into the end of each of these points, then
+work round _both_ sides of these points in double crochet, working twice
+into the end of each point.
+
+3rd row: 3 double crochet over the 3 at the beginning of last row, *, 4
+chain, single crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, work a
+long stitch into the next, repeat from * all round, at the beginning and
+end of the 3rd point miss 2 loops instead of 1, then work a stitch of
+double crochet into the 1st of the 3, 6 chain, miss the 1st, work into
+successive loops 2 long and 3 double crochet, 1 double crochet into the
+last of the 3. This completes the pattern.
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: 2 double
+crochet into each loop.
+
+2nd round: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 2 double crochet into the next,
+repeat.
+
+3rd round: 2 double crochet into successive loops, 2 double crochet into
+the next, repeat.
+
+4th round: 11 double crochet into successive loops, *, 9 chain, miss 2
+loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from *.
+
+5th round: 11 double crochet over the 11 in last round, work into the 9
+chain 5 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the
+chain, 5 more double crochet into the same place, repeat.
+
+6th round: 13 double crochet over the 11 in last round, *, 15 chain, 1
+double crochet over the 1st of the 5 in last round, repeat from *.
+
+7th round: 13 double crochet over the 13 in last round, *, work into the
+15 chain 8 double crochet, 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into
+the 1st of the 5, 8 double crochet into the same place, repeat from *.
+This completes the pattern. Then work a circle in satin stitch on the
+plain part of the pattern with the Fine Embroidery Cotton. Two of these
+patterns will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 268.--D'Oyley No. 7.]
+
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 16 stitches, and unite it. * make a chain of 10
+stitches, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 3 double crochet,
+3 long, and 3 double long, unite the last double long to the 4th of the
+16 chain in the circle, repeat from * 3 times more, *, work in single
+crochet to the top of the point and down 6 stitches of the other side,
+then make a chain of 8 stitches, miss the 1st, work into successive
+loops 3 stitches of double crochet, 2 long, and 2 double long, unite the
+last to the 3rd of the next point, and repeat from * 3 times more. Three
+of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. Work 2 patterns
+from No. 2 in the 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the same
+d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 5, and 1 from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley,
+work 2 patterns with 1 leaf from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 1 pattern
+with 2 leaves, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the 5th d'oyley, and 1
+pattern from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, and 1 from No. 6, work 6
+patterns from No. 3 in the 6th d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in the
+same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 6th d'oyley. Join these
+pieces as before, and add the same edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+269.--_D'Oyley No. 8_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and
+1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.
+
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 9 stitches, work a stitch of double
+crochet into each of the 8 1st, work 2 into the 9th, work down the other
+side of the chain to correspond, and unite it.
+
+2nd round: *, Work 1 long, make 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st
+of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat from *. No loop to be missed at
+the point. When this round is finished, make 10 chain, miss the 1st, and
+work into successive loops 2 long, and 7 of double crochet, then make 15
+chain, unite to the 7th, and work into the circle 1 double crochet, make
+5 chain, repeat 5 times more.
+
+2nd round: Work into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, and 1 of
+double crochet, repeat.
+
+3rd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat.
+Three of these patterns are required for this d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 269.--D'Oyley No. 8.]
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches. 1st round: Work 2 double crochet
+into each loop.
+
+2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+3rd round: Work into the 9 chain 1 long, make 1 chain, work another 1
+long into the same place, make 1 chain, work a third 1 long into the
+same place, make 7 chain, and repeat.
+
+4th round: Work into the centre of 3 long 2 long, make 5 chain, work 2
+more long into the same place, make 5 chain, work into the centre of the
+7 chain 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, work another of double crochet
+into the same place, make 5 chain, and repeat. Two of these patterns
+will be required for this d'oyley. Work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st
+d'oyley, work 1 pattern from Nos. 3, 4, and 6, work 1 pattern with 3
+leaves from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 with only 1 leaf, work 1 pattern
+from each of Nos. 13 and 14 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from 2 in 5th
+d'oyley, and 1 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No.
+6 in 5th d'oyley, work 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, and 2 from
+No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 1 in 7th d'oyley,
+work 2 patterns from No. 3, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in 7th d'oyley,
+then sew them together as before.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+270.--_D'Oyley No. 9_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+
+Pattern No. 1--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite ir.
+
+1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 11 times
+more.
+
+2nd round: Work 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+3rd round: *, Make 11 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work 10 double crochet
+down the chain, miss 1 loop, work 7 double crochet and repeat from * 5
+times more.
+
+4th round: Work 1 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 10, make 5
+chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops,
+work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 double crochet into the
+point, work down the other side to correspond, make 2 chain, miss 3
+loops, work 1 double crochet, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, and repeat.
+
+5th round: Work into each of the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 5 long
+stitches, and 1 double crochet.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.
+
+1st round: Work a stitch of double crochet into 1 loop, work 2 double
+crochet into the next, repeat.
+
+2nd round: * Work 3 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat from * 9 times more, work 2 double
+crochet.
+
+3rd round: * Make 21 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in the centre
+one of the 3, turn, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, make 5
+chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, work 7 double
+crochet into the 21 chain, repeat from * 8 times more.
+
+4th round: Work 15 double crochet into each loop of 21 chain, above the
+last 7 work 20 double crochet into the last loop of 21, make 5 chain,
+turn, work 1 single crochet into the last of the 5 chain, 7 double
+crochet, make 4 chain.
+
+5th round: Work 19 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 7 in the
+1st loop of 21 chain, * make 6 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work into
+successive loops a stitch of double, 3 long, 1 double long, then miss 4
+double crochet stitches, work 5 double crochet into successive loops,
+make 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop,
+5 double crochet into successive loops, repeat from * 8 times more, then
+work 12 double crochet. Two of these patterns will be required for this
+d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 270.--D'Oyley No. 9.]
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 9 times
+more.
+
+2nd round: Work into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, make 17 chain, work
+another stitch of double crochet into the same place, make 1 chain, work
+1 double crochet into the next 3 chain, make 1 chain, and repeat.
+
+3rd round: Work into the 17 chain 20 double crochet, work 1 double
+crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into the
+next 1 chain, and repeat.
+
+4th round: Work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last
+round, * work 5 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the
+1st of the 20, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the
+5, repeat from * twice more, then work 5 double crochet into successive
+loops, and repeat from the beginning of the round. Two of these patterns
+will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 4.--Make 21 chain and unite it, make a chain of 27 and unite it,
+make a chain of 21 and unite it. 1st round: Work in the 21 chain 25
+stitches of double crochet, work into the 27 chain 31 double crochet,
+work into the 21 chain 25 double crochet. 2nd round: Work 3 stitches of
+double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, work 1 single
+crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat this 6 times more, then work
+3 double crochet and repeat from the beginning in the centre loop,
+repeat this 9 times instead of 7. Two of these are required for this
+d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 5.--Make a chain of 44 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each,
+turn, make 21 chain, work 1 double crochet into the 4th chain on the
+other side, * make 21 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet into
+the next, repeat from * 9 times more, work 1 single crochet into the end
+loop, work 44 double crochet into successive loops, work 15 double into
+the 1st loop of 21, work 4 double crochet into each loop of 21, and 15
+into the end one, then * work 2 double crochet, make 3 chain, work 1
+single crochet into the 1st of the 3, repeat from * all round.
+
+Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 from No. 3, 2 with 3
+leaves, and 2 with 2 leaves, from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from
+No. 6 in same d'oyley, and 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, sew
+them together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+271.--_D'Oyley No. 10_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 19 stitches, turn, miss 5 loops, work 10
+double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 long, make 3 chain
+stitches, miss 3 loops, work 1 long stitch, make 3 chain stitches, work
+a stitch of double crochet into the last loop, then work into the 1st 3
+chain on the other side, 1 double crochet, 5 long, work into the next 3
+chain 4 long stitches, work 4 long stitches into the next 3 chain
+stitches, then work into the 5 chain at the point 8 long stitches, then
+work down the other side to correspond, * make 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+work 1 long, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch into the same place, make
+1 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, miss 1 loop, work
+1 double crochet, repeat from * 7 times more, then work into the 1st 3
+chain 1 double crochet, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch, * make 1, work
+1 double long stitch, repeat from * twice more, make 1 chain, work 1
+long; all these stitches are worked into the same 3 chain, then work 1
+double crochet into the chain stitch between the 2nd and 3rd long
+stitches, repeat this 7 times more; this finishes the leaf; then make 16
+chain, and work a second leaf the same as 1st, then work 2 double
+crochet down, then make 12 chain, and work a third leaf the same as 1st,
+work 14 stitches down the stem, and work a 4th leaf the same as 1st,
+work 8 double crochet down the stem, work a 5th leaf the same as 1st,
+make a chain of 40 stitches, turn, and work back in double crochet.
+
+[Illustration: 271.--D'Oyley No. 10.]
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it, *, work a stitch of
+double crochet into the circle, make 13 chain, and repeat from * five
+times more, then work 17 stitches into each of the 13 chain, then work 2
+stitches of double crochet, beginning on the second of the 13, *, make 5
+chain stitches, and work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st of the
+5 chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, and repeat from * 5
+times more; for the stem make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, * work 5
+stitches of double crochet, make 5 chain, turn, and work a stitch of
+single crochet into the 1st, repeat from * 4 times more, then work down
+the other side to correspond; then work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st
+d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 2 with only two leaves, and 2 from No. 6 in
+the same d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, and 3 from
+No. 3 in 6th d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 9th d'oyley, and 1
+from No. 3; work 3 patterns from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, sew the
+pieces together as before, and work the edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+272 _and_ 273.--_Work-Basket in Straw and Silk Crochet-Work_.
+
+Materials: Straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch wide; small
+glass beads; a piece of bamboo cane.
+
+This basket has a cover formed of two pieces. It can be employed for
+many things, and is formed entirely of crochet-work with brown silk
+over straw. A ruche trimmed with beads and bows of brown silk ribbon
+form the trimming of the basket. The straws over which you crochet must
+be damp, so as not to be stiff. They should be of unequal length, and
+when you join the two ends of two straws together, try to hide the
+beginning with the other straws. Begin the basket in the centre of the
+bottom part with 46 stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of this
+first row, working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches,
+the double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the last
+round over wire.
+
+[Illustration: 273.--Bottom of Work Basket (272).]
+
+It is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep the work
+flat. When you have finished the bottom begin the border of the basket,
+which is worked of the same piece with it, and consists of 11 rounds.
+
+It is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds without
+increasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9 rounds
+increase 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the edge may be a
+little wider in the upper part. In the last round add a piece of wire to
+the straws.
+
+[Illustration: 272.--Work Basket in Straw and Crochet.]
+
+The cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. Begin in the middle
+with 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half circle,
+working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each row turn the
+straws, and take care that the rows which are finished form a straight
+line. Each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the last one is worked
+over wire. The two halves are united at the straight sides by a brown
+silk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is sewed on underneath, and which
+forms a sort of hinge; sew on also a piece of wire covered with brown
+silk, so as to make the hinge stronger. Form the handle with a piece of
+bamboo cane 23 inches long, and covered with straws; work over it in
+long stitches of brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of the
+basket; then sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, which
+forms the two parts. Trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats,
+ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+274 _and_ 275.--_Two Crochet Borders_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton Nos. 30 and 80.
+
+No. 274.--Crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border (No. 30
+and No. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of stitches of the
+length required.
+
+[Illustration: 274.--Crochet Border.]
+
+1st row: 1 double in each stitch of the chain.
+
+2nd row: Turn and work on the opposite side of the chain, * 1 double, 11
+chain, miss 7. Repeat from *. 3rd row: * 1 double on the 1st loop of
+chain, 2 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are under
+the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain.
+Repeat from *.
+
+4th row: * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of chain, 3 chain, 1
+treble in the 1st, but before you complete the treble stitch make 1
+chain. Repeat from *. This row completes the upper half of the border.
+The lower half is worked over the 1st row of plain double crochet.
+
+5th row: 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15 chain, miss 9, 1
+double, come back over the loop of chain and work 1 double in each
+stitch, come back again and work 6 small points, each made thus: 5
+chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each of the 3 others, 1
+double over the round scallop. When you have worked the 6 small points
+repeat from *, but always join the 1st point of one scallop to the last
+point of the next scallop. The pattern inside the scallops is worked in
+2 rows with fine cotton. (See illustration.)
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.]
+
+No. 275.--The border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled up with
+lace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl (_i.e._, 5 chain
+and 1 slip stitch in the 1st). When the chain is long enough, turn and
+work the 1st row: Alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch
+between the 2 purl.
+
+2nd row: Turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of 7 chain, 1
+chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre of next loop, and so on.
+
+The 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side of the
+chain with purl. * In each of the 8 first stitches work 1 double, make
+12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked, and work 1 double
+in the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and work 7 small points
+over it. For each point make 3 chain, work 1 double in the 2nd, 1 treble
+in the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double upon the loop of chain. Repeat from
+* 6 times more.
+
+In the following scallops always fasten the first point of one scallop
+to the last point of the preceding scallop. When this row is completed
+fill up the inner part of each scallop with a network of fine thread,
+joining the threads at all the places where they cross each other by 2
+or 3 stitches with a sewing needle.
+
+[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+276.--_Crochet Antimacassar_.
+
+Materials: 18 reels of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton
+No. 10.
+
+[Illustration: 276.--Crochet Antimacassar.]
+
+This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square one, and
+is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a chain of 4
+stitches, and unite it.
+
+1st round: Work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain stitch, work
+another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, repeat.
+
+2nd round: 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain stitches, miss 1
+loop, and repeat.
+
+3rd round: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, make 7
+chain, and repeat.
+
+4th round: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 2
+more double crochet, and repeat.
+
+5th round: 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in last round, make
+9 chain, and repeat. 6th round: Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, *
+make 4 chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5
+chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make 1
+chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round. 7th round: 1
+long stitch into the loop formed with the 5 chain, make 12 chain, and
+repeat. 8th round: Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into successive
+loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next
+loops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double crochet, 5 long
+stitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, work 2
+double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double
+crochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain, and repeat. This
+completes the circle. 120 circles sewn together like the engraving will
+make a good-sized couvrette, 12 in the length, and 10 in the width. If a
+round couvrette is wished, work 1 circle for the centre larger than the
+others; this can be done by repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then sew 8
+circles round the centre one, and increase the number of circles in each
+row till you have made it the size you wish. For the square one, tassels
+are required for the end and sides; these are made by winding the cotton
+over a cardboard 4 inches deep about 80 times, then twist 8 threads of
+the cotton into a cord, cut the cotton wound on the cardboard at one
+end, make 2 inches of the cord into a loop and tie it firmly with the
+middle of the tassel, then turn it, tie a thread tightly round, about an
+inch below the cord, and net over the head; 40 of these tassels will be
+sufficient.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+277.--_Crochet Insertion_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40.
+
+[Illustration: 277.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+The patterns of this insertion are worked in a row, and always two
+opposite circles at a time. Make a foundation chain of 16 stitches, join
+them into a circle, then work a 2nd circle consisting again of 16 chain
+stitches. Work round this circle 24 double stitches, and 24 double round
+the 1st circle; after the last stitch begin again at the 2nd circle, and
+work 10 chain scallops as follows:--3 double in the next 3 stitches, * 5
+chain, 2 double in the next 2 stitches, repeat 8 times more, 3 double in
+the last 3 stitches; work in the same manner round the other circle. To
+get to the next pattern, work 4 slip stitches between the 2 circles in
+the middle of the just-completed pattern, leaving the cotton under the
+work and drawing it through the stitch upwards through the loop on the
+needle; 7 chain stitches, and then 2 circles like those just described,
+and so on.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+278 _and_ 279.--_Tobacco Pouch in Crochet Work_.
+
+Materials: Black purse silk; crimson ditto; gold thread.
+
+The pouch is begun at the bottom, in the centre of the star.
+
+With crimson silk make a chain of 3 stitches, and join it into a
+circle. Work 4 rounds of double crochet, 2 stitches in each stitch.
+
+5th round: 2 crimson stitches, 1 gold stitch, and so on.
+
+6th round: All gold stitches.
+
+7th round: 2 crimson stitches, 2 gold, and so on.
+
+8th round: All crimson stitches.
+
+9th round: 3 crimson stitches, 2 gold, &c.
+
+10th round: Similar to the preceding.
+
+[Illustration: 278.--Star for Tobacco Pouch, No. 279.]
+
+11th round: 4 gold stitches, 3 crimson, &c.
+
+12th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches over the 2 centre gold
+stitches of preceding round, &c.
+
+13th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c.
+
+14th round: 1 gold stitch, 6 black stitches, &c.
+
+15th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c.
+
+16th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches, &c.
+
+17th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 over the black stitches of preceding
+round, and 1 on either side, 4 crimson stitches, &c.
+
+18th round: 2 gold stitches over the centre ones of preceding round, 7
+crimson stitches, &c.
+
+Now work 4 plain crimson rounds, and begin the pattern from No. 279. The
+centre is crimson, and the pattern is black and gold. The border round
+the top is of the same colours.
+
+[Illustration: 279.--Tobacco Pouch.]
+
+Complete the work by 2 rounds of open treble crochet, and 1 round of
+gold scallops.
+
+In the open rounds pass a double cord of black silk, finished off with
+small balls of black silk gimp and gold; and on either side of the pouch
+fasten one of these same balls with two tassels, one crimson and one
+black. The pouch is lined with white kid.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+280 _and_ 281.--_Crochet Rosettes_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 4, 24, or
+40.
+
+These rosettes are suitable for trimming cuffs, collars, and bodices, or
+for making couvrettes, according to the size of the cotton with which
+they are worked.
+
+[Illustration: 280.--Crochet Rosette.]
+
+280.--Make a foundation chain of 22 chain; join them into a circle and
+work the 1st round; 44 double.
+
+2nd round: * 7 chain, missing 3 stitches of the preceding round under
+them, 1 double; repeat 10 times more from *.
+
+3rd round: 1 slip stitch in the first 4 stitches of the next scallop, *
+5 chain, miss the last and work back on the other 4, 1 double, 1 treble,
+1 long treble, 1 double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the
+needle), 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next scallop; repeat
+10 times more from *. Work a wheel in the centre of the rosette, which
+is ornamented with a circle of chain stitch, as can be seen in
+illustration; take up one thread of the wheel with every other chain
+stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 281.--Crochet Rosette.]
+
+281.--Begin the rosette with a leaf-like pattern in the centre, and work
+the 1st row: * 11 chain, miss the last, work back over the following 8
+stitches, 1 double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, 1 double long treble, 2
+long treble, 1 treble, 1 double in the upper part of the chain stitch
+before the last, 1 slip stitch in the lower part of the same stitch. The
+first leaf of the middle pattern is then completed; repeat 6 times more
+from *. Join the first and last leaves together by working 1 slip stitch
+in the 1st of the 11 chain stitch. 2nd round: (Fasten on the cotton
+afresh), 1 slip stitch in the point of each leaf, 12 chain between. 3rd
+round: 24 double in each scallop. The rosette is then completed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+282.--_Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in Appliqué,
+and Velvet Ribbon_.
+
+[Illustration: 282.--Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked
+in Appliqué and Velvet Ribbon.]
+
+This trimming consists of 2 strips of crochet insertion, ornamented with
+embroidery patterns worked in appliqué, and velvet ribbon drawn through.
+They are worked the long way with fine crochet cotton. Begin on a
+sufficiently long foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by
+20, and work the 1st row: 1 chain, * 5 double, on the first 5 stitches
+of the foundation, 1 leaf, as follows:--10 chain, without reckoning the
+loop left on the needle, 1 extra long treble (for which the cotton is
+wound 5 times round the needle) in the second of the 10 chain, a similar
+treble in the first, then cast off the 2 treble stitches together, wind
+the cotton once round the needle, and cast off the last loop with the
+loop left on the needle. Miss under the leaf 15 stitches of the
+foundation, and repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 5 double on the 5 double of the preceding row, inserting the
+needle in the whole stitches, 15 chain stitches between.
+
+3rd row: * 5 double in the first 5 double of the preceding row, 7 chain,
+1 slip stitch in every other stitch of the next scallop of the preceding
+row, 7 chain between, 7 chain stitches; repeat from *.
+
+4th row: * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of the preceding row,
+3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of each of the 8 scallops,
+consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row, 3 chain between, 3 chain;
+repeat from *. These 2 last rows (the third and fourth) are repeated on
+the other side of the foundation chain.
+
+When the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together so that
+2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the embroidery patterns
+and velvet ribbon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+283.--_Crochet Insertion_.
+
+This pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers or
+pillow-cases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. If the
+insertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower border
+on which the button-holes are made. Begin the insertion in the middle of
+one of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain of 9 stitches;
+join them into a circle by making 1 slip stitch, and crochet thus:--*
+10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the circle, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4
+slip stitches in the next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5
+double divided by 5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten the
+thread after having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slip
+stitch to the 1st double stitch of this round. This completes the
+star-like figure. Work on one side of these figures the following
+rows:--
+
+1st row: * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four placed together, 3
+chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the last of
+the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st scallop of the following 4
+placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1
+treble in the 3rd scallop, 3 chain. Repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, * miss 3
+stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch. Repeat from *.
+
+3rd row: * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on the next 3
+stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from *.
+
+4th row: 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding row, * 4 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3 double on the next 3
+stitches of the preceding row. Repeat from *. After having worked these
+four rows likewise on the other side of the star figures, work over the
+last the following 5 rows for the button-holes:--
+
+1st row: 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double in the next
+purl. Repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row.
+
+3rd row: Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which miss 7 stitches.
+4th row: Like the 2nd row.
+
+5th row; * 3 double on the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl (4
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double stitch). Repeat from *.
+
+[Illustration: 283.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+284.--_Crochet Insertion_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30.
+
+This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton on a
+double foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl stitches
+as follows:--1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1 purl, consisting
+of 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1 double in the next
+stitch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work centre consists of 6 rows of
+scallops; the 1st of these rows is worked on the other side of the
+foundation chain; 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop, 5
+chain between, then 1 row of slip stitches, and finally a row of purl
+stitches like the 1st row of the insertion. For the raised flowers,
+which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make a
+foundation chain of 10 stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from
+illustration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the
+1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of
+the 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1
+long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then 1
+slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches under them,
+1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. Each following row consists
+of 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop of the preceding row,
+9 chain between. Then work the 1st row of the border on the other side
+of the insertion; 1 double in the 1st stitch of the foundation,
+inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times
+more from *, and the flower is completed.
+
+[Illustration: 284.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+285.--_Crochet Garter_.
+
+Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round white
+elastic cord; a pearl button.
+
+This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord;
+the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread.
+
+[Illustration: 285.--Crochet Garter.]
+
+Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool; take the
+elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work over
+it. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completed
+in the course of the two first rounds; the button-hole is made at the
+beginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 stitches, and, when you
+come to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain.
+Increase the number of stitches at either end of the garter, to round it
+off. When the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then
+a plain red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately
+1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first, missing
+1 stitch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl button to correspond with the
+button-hole. The garter would be both more elegant and more elastic if
+worked entirely in silk.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+286.--_Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton, and a needle
+to match.
+
+This pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of old
+guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and sleeves,
+and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size. Both strips of
+rosettes join at that place, and one is continued for the part round the
+bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the pattern there are 42 rosettes
+round the bosom, and 14 round each sleeve. These rosettes are fastened
+one to another in the course of the work. They are made in the following
+manner:--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and join it into a ring. 1st round:
+8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain, which forms a purl (the 3 first
+chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the
+ring. Repeat 6 times from *. Instead of the last treble, work a slip
+stitch to fasten the end of the round to the 3 chain of the beginning,
+which thus form 1 treble. 2nd round: 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned
+as 1 treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain.
+Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the beginning. 3rd
+round: On each scallop of preceding round work 2 double, 1 purl, 2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This completes the rosette.
+Each rosette is fastened to the last by joining the 2 middle purl of
+both. In the illustration, which is full-size, the purl that are to be
+joined to those of another rosette are marked by a cross. The joining
+between the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same
+manner. The space left between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star
+formed of chain stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk.
+For this star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms the
+centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8 purl
+that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch. Repeat 7
+times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them together 3 of
+these stars are required for each shoulder.
+
+[Illustration: 286.--Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise.]
+
+For the Border.--It is worked at the same time both round the bosom and
+sleeves. 1st round: * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st scallop of
+the rosette, which we will call the _first rosette_; 5 chain,
+1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd scallop of the same rosette,
+4 chain; then work the kind of cross which comes between each rosette
+(see illustration). To make this cross throw the cotton 3 times round
+the needle, work 1 double treble in the last purl left free of the 1st
+rosette, keep the last loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round
+it, and work a double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd
+rosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the
+loop left on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last
+double treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * at
+each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1 slip
+stitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come to the next
+space, where a cross is to be made. 2nd round: Work alternately 1
+treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over
+the 6 chain. The two rounds just explained are also worked round the
+upper edge, and finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1
+double in one of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the
+2nd of the 6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next
+but one of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain,
+1 chain, 1 double in the next space. Repeat from *. On the upper edge of
+the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1 round of
+crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the needle, so that
+the treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain between each cross.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+KNITTING.
+
+
+
+287.--KNITTING, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is by no
+means so ancient as lacemaking. Knitting has never entirely quitted the
+hands of English and German ladies; indeed, among all good housewives of
+any civilised country, it is reckoned an indispensable accomplishment.
+Knitting schools have been established of late years both in Ireland and
+Scotland, and Her Majesty the Queen has herself set an example of this
+industry, as well as largely patronised the industrial knitters of
+Scotland. Of the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at present
+ignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the following
+instructions are offered.
+
+To knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread, cotton,
+silk, or wool are required.
+
+Knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the size to be
+used depends entirely upon the material employed, whether thread,
+cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting. As the size of the
+needles depends upon that of the cotton, a knitting gauge is used (see
+No. 287). The gauge (page 290) is the exact size of Messrs. H. Walker
+and Co.'s knitting gauge. Our readers will remark that English and
+foreign gauges differ very essentially; the finest size of German
+needles, for example, is No. 1, which is the size of the coarsest
+English wooden or ivory needle. Straight knitting is usually done with
+two needles only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &c., three,
+four, and five needles are employed.
+
+[Illustration: 287.--Knitting Gauge.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+288.--_Casting On_.
+
+This term is used for placing the first row or round of knitting
+stitches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two ways--by
+"knitting on" the stitches, or as follows:--
+
+Hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left hand,
+throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a loop, and pass
+the needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly round the needle, pass
+it through the loop, and draw up the thread; this forms the first stitch
+(see No. 288).
+
+[Illustration: 288.--Casting On.]
+
+
+289.--_To Knit On_.
+
+[Illustration: 289.--Knitting On.]
+
+Take the needle on which the stitches are cast in the left hand, and
+another needle in the right hand--observe the position of the hands (No.
+289). Hold the left-hand needle between the thumb and third finger,
+leaving the first finger free to move the points of the needles. (The
+wonderful sense of touch in the first or index finger is so delicate,
+that an experienced knitter can work without ever looking at her
+fingers, by the help of this touch only--in fact, knitting becomes a
+purely mechanical labour, and as such is most useful.) Insert the point
+of the right-hand needle in the loop or stitch formed on the left-hand
+needle, bring the thread once round, turning the point of the needle in
+front under the stitch, bringing up the thread thrown over, which in
+its turn becomes a stitch, and is placed on the left-hand needle.
+
+
+290.--_Simple Knitting (plain)_.
+
+[Illustration: 290.--Plain Knitting.]
+
+Pass the right-hand needle into the 1st stitch of the left-hand needle,
+at the back throw the thread forward, and with the first finger pass the
+point of the needle under the stitch in forming a fresh stitch with the
+thread already thrown over, as in "knitting on," only, instead of
+placing the newly-formed stitch on the left-hand needle, leave it on the
+right-hand needle, and let the stitch drop off the point of the
+left-hand needle. Continue thus until all the stitches are taken from
+the left to the right-hand needle, and the row is then complete.
+
+
+291.--_To Purl, Pearl, or Seam_.
+
+Seaming or purling a stitch is done by taking up the stitch _in front_
+instead of at the back, throwing the thread over and knitting the stitch
+as in plain knitting; but before beginning to purl, the thread must be
+brought in front of the needle, and if a plain stitch follows, the
+thread is passed back after the purl stitch is made (see No. 291).
+[Illustration: 291.--Purling.]
+
+
+292.--_To Increase_.
+
+Increasing or making a stitch is done by throwing the thread once round
+the needle and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 292.--Increasing.]
+
+
+293.--_To Decrease_.
+
+This is done in two ways: _firstly_, taking up two stitches and knitting
+them together as one; _secondly_, by taking up a stitch without knitting
+it, called slipping, then by knitting the following stitch in the usual
+way, and then slipping the 1st (unknitted) over the 2nd (knitted) (see
+No. 293). When it is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed
+thus:--Slip one, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknitted
+stitch over the two knitted together.
+
+[Illustration: 293.--Decreasing.]
+
+
+294.--_Round Knitting_.
+
+To knit a round four or five needles are used; it is thus that
+stockings, socks, cuffs, mittens, &c., are made. To knit with four
+needles, cast on, say, 32 stitches upon one needle, insert a second
+needle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on 30 stitches; proceed
+in a similar way with a third needle, but casting on 28 only; when this
+is done, knit the two extra stitches on the first needle on to the last;
+this makes 30 stitches upon each needle, and completes the round.
+
+
+295.--_Casting Off_.
+
+Knit two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slip the first stitch
+over the second; continue this to the end of the row. _Note_.--The last
+knitted row, before casting off, should be knitted loosely.
+
+
+296.--_To Pick up a Stitch_.
+
+This is done by taking up the thread between two stitches and forming a
+stitch with it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The following Designs of New Stitches can be used for a variety of
+work:--
+
+297.--_Peacock's Tail Pattern_.
+
+Needles, wood or ivory; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 297.--Peacock's Tail Pattern.]
+
+Cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, as it takes nine
+stitches for each pattern, and two for each border; the border, which
+is in plain knitting, will not be mentioned after the first row.
+
+1_st Row_.--2 plain for border; 2 plain *, make 1, 1 plain, repeat this
+four times from *, make 1, 2 plain; repeat from the beginning--then 2
+plain for border.
+
+2_nd Row_.--2 purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat.
+
+[Illustration: 298.--Spiral Stitch.]
+
+3_rd Row_.--Take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 together; repeat.
+
+4_th Row_.--Purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 together; repeat.
+
+5_th Row_.--Take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2 together.
+
+Begin from the 1st row.
+
+Thirteen stitches are large enough for a stripe for a sofa-cover. These
+stripes should be sewn together after all are finished.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+298.--_Spiral Stitch_.
+
+Materials: Needles, thick steel or bone; double wool.
+
+This stitch is far more effective worked in thick wool than in cotton.
+It is done in stripes alternately wide and narrow. For wide stripes cast
+on twenty-one stitches, for narrow fifteen; this without counting the
+first and last stitch, the first being slipped, the last always plainly
+knitted.
+
+1_st Row_.--Purl 3 together to end of row.
+
+2_nd Row_.--Make 1, * 1 plain, make 2, repeat from * end by making the
+last stitch before the plain knitted one at end of row.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration 299.--Knotted Stitch.]
+
+299.--_Knotted Stitch_.
+
+Materials: Needles, wood or ivory; double wool.
+
+Cast on 11 stitches.
+
+1_st Row_.--All plain, throwing the wool twice round the needle before
+each stitch.
+
+2_nd Row_.--Each stitch on the needle is now composed of 3 threads of
+wool: knit the first plain, the second purl, the third plain; cast off
+the second over the third, and the first over the second; this leaves
+but one stitch; repeat from first row until a sufficient length is
+obtained. This pattern makes very pretty borders.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+300.--_Knitted Moss Borders_.
+
+Materials: Steel needles; moss wool of several shades of green.
+
+Cast on enough stitches for double the width required, say twenty, and
+knit very tightly in plain knitting, row by row, until a sufficient
+length has been obtained. Cut off and place the strip on a sieve over a
+basin of boiling water, and cover it over. When it has absorbed the
+steam, and while wet, iron it with a box-iron. Then cut the strip down
+the centre, and unravel the wool on each side. The threads of wool all
+curling, resemble moss. They are held firmly by the selvedge of the
+knitting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+301.--_German Brioche Stitch_
+
+Materials: Wood or ivory needles; wool.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches.
+
+All the rows are knitted as follows:--Slip 1, taken as for purling,
+make 1, take 2 together. In the following rows the made stitch must
+always be slipped, the decreased stitch and the slipped stitch of the
+previous row knitted together.
+
+[Illustration: 301.--German Brioche Stitch.]
+
+Ordinary Brioche Stitch is made by casting on an even number of
+stitches, and working the rows as follows:--
+
+Make 1, slip 1, take 2 together; repeat. _Note_.--The made stitch and
+the slipped stitch of the previous row must always be knitted together,
+and the decreased stitch of that row slipped.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+NETTING.
+
+302.--NETTING is one of the prettiest and one of the easiest
+accomplishments of a lady. The materials are simple, while the effects
+produced by good netting are most elegant and of great durability. One
+great advantage of netting is that each stitch is finished and
+independent of the next, so that if an accident happens to one stitch it
+does not, as in crochet or knitting, spoil the whole work.
+
+Netting, so easy to do, is most difficult to describe. The materials
+required are--a netting-needle and mesh (see illustration No. 302).
+These are made of bone, of wood, of ivory, and most commonly of steel.
+The wood, bone, and ivory are only used for netting wool, the steel for
+silk, cotton, &c.
+
+The needle is filled by passing the end of the thread through the little
+hole at the left-hand point, and tying it; then the thread is wound on
+the needle as on a tatting shuttle. The needles are numbered from 12 to
+24; these last are extremely fine. The meshes correspond to the sizes of
+the needles, and are made of the same materials. The larger the size of
+the stitch required the thicker the mesh must be selected; indeed, large
+hat meshes are often used for some patterns. A stirrup to slip over the
+foot to which the foundation is attached is required by those who do
+not use a netting cushion, placed before them on the table and heavily
+weighted; to this the foundation is fastened.
+
+The stirrup is made of a loop of ribbon, to which the foundation is
+tied. Some ladies work a pretty stirrup of the exact shape of a
+horseman's stirrup; a loop of ribbon is passed through this, and the
+foundation fixed as before.
+
+[Illustration 302.--Needle and Mesh.]
+
+303.--_To Net_.
+
+Place the mesh under the thread, between the thumb and finger of the
+left hand; it must rest on the middle of the finger and be held only by
+the thumb (see illustration No. 303). Take the needle in the right hand,
+pass the thread over the middle and ring finger and over the mesh, pass
+the needle upwards and behind the mesh in the large loop which forms the
+thread round the fingers, and at the same time through the first stitch
+or loop of the foundation. Draw the needle out, retaining the loops on
+the fingers and dropping them off, the little finger being the last to
+release the thread. As the thread tightens and the knot is firm, the
+loop on the little finger should be drawn up quickly and smartly. The
+next stitches are precisely similar, and row upon row is formed in the
+same manner. Having learnt the stitch, the next task is to make a
+foundation. Tie a large loop of strong thread on the stirrup ribbon, and
+net fifty stitches into this loop, then net four or five rows, and the
+foundation is ready.
+
+[Illustration: 303.--Netting.]
+
+Simple netting as above explained forms diamonds or lozenges. When a
+piece of netting is finished it is cut off the foundation, and the
+little ends of thread that held the stitches are drawn out.
+
+304.--_Square Netting_.
+
+Is done precisely in the same manner as plain netting, only begin from
+one stitch, then net two stitches into this first, and increase by
+making two in the last loop of every row. As soon as the right number of
+stitches is complete diminish exactly in the same way by netting two
+stitches as one at the end of each row until one stitch alone remains.
+These squares are used for guipure d'art and for darning on.
+
+305.--_Round Netting_
+
+Is nearly similar to plain netting. A little difference exists in the
+way of passing the needle through the stitch; this is shown in No. 305.
+After having passed the needle through the stitch it is drawn out and
+passed from above into the loop just made. This stitch is very effective
+for purses.
+
+[Illustration: 305.--Round Netting.]
+
+306.--_Diamond Netting_
+
+Is often called "pointed netting," and is made by netting from one
+stitch, increasing one stitch at the end of each row, and decreasing in
+the same way, as described at page 303.
+
+307.--_To Net Rounds_.
+
+To form a circle, as for a purse, the needle must pass through the first
+stitch, keeping the last three or four on the mesh and removing this
+when required by the work.
+
+308.--_"English" Netting_
+
+Is made as follows:--Net a row of plain netting, begin the second row by
+netting the second stitch, then net the first; repeat, always passing by
+one stitch and taking it up.
+
+_3rd Row_.--Plain.
+
+_4th Row_.--Begin by a plain stitch, then continue as in the 2nd row.
+
+_5th Row_.--Plain.
+
+[Illustration: 308.--"English" Netting.]
+
+309.--_Lace Edging_.
+
+Begin by one stitch and net two in one at the end of each row until as
+many stitches are required for the narrowest part of the edge. *
+Increase one then in the two loops until the point of the edge or
+scallop is reached; at the next row leave the squares which form the
+point, and begin from *.
+
+310.--_Open Lace_.
+
+This kind of edging is made with two meshes of different sizes and
+extremely fine crochet cotton.
+
+Tie the thread to the foundation, net 3 rows with the small mesh of the
+required length.
+
+_4th Row_.--On the large mesh, one stitch in each stitch.
+
+_5th Row_.--On the small mesh take 3 stitches together to form 1 loop;
+repeat to end of row.
+
+_6th Row_.--On the large mesh make 5 loops in each stitch; repeat to end
+of row.
+
+[Illustration: 310.--Open Lace.]
+
+_7th Row_.--On the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4 first stitches,
+pass over the 5th, repeat to end.
+
+_8th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first
+stitches, pass over the 4th; repeat.
+
+_9th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first
+stitches, pass over the 3rd; repeat.
+
+This lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim opera-caps,
+children's hoods, &c.
+
+311.--_Shell Border_.
+
+This border is intended as an edging for square netting for
+couvrettes, d'oyleys, &c. The mesh must be three times as
+long as that employed for the square netting.
+
+Make 12 stitches in the first stitch of the edge, pass over 8,
+make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. Then take the mesh used
+for the square netting, and net one stitch in each stitch, take
+a still smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row of
+one stitch in each stitch.
+
+This border forms a very appropriate edging for all articles
+in square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for trimming guipure
+d'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging the
+work; two sets of shells must be worked at the corners when
+a little fulness is required.
+
+[Illustration: 311.--Shell Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+KNITTING AND NETTING
+PATTERNS
+
+
+312.--_Knitted Sock for a Child._
+
+Materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single Berlin wool; 1 yard of narrow
+pink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins.
+
+This sock fits well, and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two pins,
+backwards and forwards. Cast on 22 stitches and knit 22 rows, but
+increase once at the end of every other row on the right side of the
+work, so that there are 33 stitches in the 22nd row. Now cast off 28
+stitches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every other
+row. Now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other
+row; this forms the toe. Cast on 28 stitches on the same needle, and
+knit 22 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row, and
+cast off. Pick up the 68 stitches on the upper part of shoe, and knit 20
+rows, alternately 2 plain and 2 purl rows, decreasing 1 stitch on each
+side of the 12 stitches in every other row, which forms the toe and
+front of sock. Knit 14 rows of 2 plain, 2 purl stitches alternately,
+then 3 open rows with 1 plain row between. The open rows are worked as
+follows:--* Purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1
+open row, 1 plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewn together down the
+back of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to form
+the toe.
+
+[Illustration: 312.--Knitted Sock.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+313.--_Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers,
+Couvrettes, Antimacassars, &c._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton; 5 steel
+knitting-needles of a corresponding size.
+
+[Illustration: 313.--Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette
+Covers, &c.]
+
+According to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful square
+makes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes, &c. &c. If
+worked with Evans's cotton No. 10, it will be suitable for the
+first-mentioned purpose. Begin the square in the centre, cast on 8
+stitches, 2 on each needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the
+1st round. 2nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1; repeat
+3 times more from *.
+
+3rd round: Plain knitting. This knitted round is repeated after every
+pattern round. We shall not mention this again, nor the repetition from
+*.
+
+4th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.
+
+6th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.
+
+8th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.
+
+The 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in every
+other round the number of stitches between the 2 stitches formed by
+throwing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in the 18th round 15
+stitches are knitted between.
+
+20th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+22nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the
+knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+24th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw
+the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, draw the
+slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1.
+
+26th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over
+the last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, draw the
+first over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, three times
+alternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+28th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, four times
+alternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit
+1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; knit 1, knit 2 together,
+knit 1, four times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1.
+
+30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, six times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, knit 1 six times alternately, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+32nd round: Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 6 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches
+together, 6 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+34th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, knit 1, 7 times alternately knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+36th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 stitches
+together, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+38th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the, slipped
+over the knitted stitch, 8 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+40th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches
+together as 1 stitch, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1. You now have 41 stitches on each needle; knit 1 round, and cast
+off. When completed, the squares are joined together on the wrong side.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+314.--_Knitted Sleeping Sock._
+
+Materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces light
+blue fleecy.
+
+[Illustration: 314.--Knitted Sleeping Sock.]
+
+These socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond pattern,
+and in rounds like a stocking. Begin at the upper part of the sock; cast
+on 103 stitches with blue wool on pretty thick steel knitting-needles,
+and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as follows:--
+
+1st round: Quite plain.
+
+2nd round: Purled; both these rounds are worked with blue wool.
+
+3rd to 6th rounds: Knitted plain with white wool.
+
+7th round: With blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through the next stitch
+of the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out as a loop, keep it
+on the needle, knit again 3 stitches, and so on. 8th round: With blue
+wool; the loop which has been taken up on the preceding round is purled
+off together with the preceding stitch. Repeat the 3rd and 8th rounds
+twice more; the loop of one round must be placed between those of the
+preceding one. Then knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2
+stitches knitted, 2 stitches purled, then work the foot in the diamond
+pattern in the same way as usual for a stocking. The heel is formed by
+leaving 23 stitches on each side the seam stitch, and knitted backwards
+and forwards in the diamond pattern. At the toe decrease so that the
+decreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. This is obtained by
+knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches of the 1st needle together; on the 2nd
+needle slip the 4th stitch before the last, knit the next stitch and
+draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one; decrease in the same
+manner on the other 2 needles of this round. Repeat these decreasings
+exactly in the same direction and at the same places, so that there are
+always 4 stitches between the 2 decreasings at the end and at the
+beginning of 2 needles; they always take place after 3 or 2 plain
+rounds, and at last after 1 plain round. The remaining stitches are
+knitted off 2 and 2 together. To complete the sock, the outline of the
+sole is marked by working slip stitches with blue wool in crochet all
+round it; work also slip stitches on the selvedge stitch of the heel.
+The stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops in
+blue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_315 and 316.--Netted Fichu or Cape._
+
+Material: Fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle and
+meshes.
+
+This fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk used three
+or four times double. It may be worn as an evening wrap, either over a
+cap or on the hair, or as a necktie. The ground in our pattern is white,
+the border blue. The illustration of the ground and of the border, in
+full size, will serve as a guide for the size of the meshes to be used.
+For the ground cast on the first mesh, with white silk, 56 stitches;
+work 2 rows on the 56 stitches. From the 3rd row, always miss the last
+stitch, so that each row is decreased 1 stitch. Continue in this manner
+till the 39th row, when there will be but 19 stitches left. From the
+40th row, miss 2 stitches at the end of each row. The ground is
+completed with the 46th row. The 1st row of the work is the _cross-way
+side_; the last, the _point at the bottom_; fasten on the blue silk to
+the 1st stitch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row round the
+ground of the fichu, not forgetting that the stitch on the outer edge at
+the sides must always be taken, and 2 stitches made in the 5th, 10th,
+14th, [Illustration: 315.--Netted Fichu, or Cape, for Evening Dress.]
+18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th stitches at the sides, as well as in each of
+the 2 middle stitches of the last row; in each of the other stitches 1
+stitch should be made. On the corners of the sides increase _once_, on
+the cross-way side, seven times in all. This forms the 1st round of the
+edging or lace.
+
+[Illustration: 316.--Showing the Netting full size for Border of Fichu.]
+
+2nd round of the lace: In each stitch make 2 stitches--still on the
+larger mesh. 3rd round: Always miss the small flat scallop formed in
+last row, and work 2 stitches in the stitch which forms a tight loop.
+Keep thus the same number of stitches, with which work 6 more rounds.
+For the last round, work 1 stitch in each _tight_ loop.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_317.--Lady's Knitted Purse._
+
+Materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet ditto;
+black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a tassel of black beads; 5
+steel knitting-needles.
+
+[Illustration: 317.--Lady's Knitted Purse.]
+
+This purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and ornamented
+with black beads and a black bead tassel. Begin the purse with the black
+silk in the centre of the bottom part, and cast on for one part of it 7
+stitches. Knit 14 rows on these backwards and forwards, in such a manner
+that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other. The 1st
+stitch of every row is slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * On
+that side where hangs the thread with which you work take the back chain
+of the 7 selvedge stitches of the part you have just knitted on a
+separate needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the
+1st row of which is knitted. Repeat 10 times more from *. The stitches
+of several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to be
+hindered in working by too many needles. When the 12th part is
+completed, take the selvedge stitches on the left hand on another
+needle, cast them off together with the cast on stitches of the 1st
+part, and fasten the silk thread. Then take the 7 right-hand selvedge
+stitches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk on which the
+beads have been strung and work 15 rows on these stitches, the 1st row
+from the wrong side, and therefore purled; in the 1st, as well as in all
+the other purled rows, the last stitch must be purled together with the
+next stitch of the next black part. In the purled rows, moreover,
+excepting in the first and last one, a bead must be worked in after
+casting off the 2nd, 4th, and 6th stitches. The stitch must be worked by
+inserting the needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk
+which has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch so
+that it is on the right side of the work. In the following knitted row,
+the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the bead stitch.
+When 12 such red parts have been completed, work again 12 black parts on
+the selvedge stitch of the same, in which the beads are not knitted in,
+but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is completed. Then work 3 times
+more alternately 12 red and 12 black parts; when the last 12 black parts
+have been completed cast off the stitches of the last black part
+together with the selvedge stitches, the 1st on the wrong side; the
+stitches of the 6th part are cast off in the same manner together with
+the selvedge stitches of the 7th. The red parts which remain to be
+worked on the black part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th,
+and the 7th, 8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. Then
+gather all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the 10 parts on 2
+needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the stitches and
+selvedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed on
+the sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk, first on
+the stitches of the one needle, and then on those of the other:--1 row
+knitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch; then work 3 rows
+backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches, which must be
+knitted on the right side; then work 8 rows more in the same manner,
+casting off the 2 first stitches of the 8 rows. Then cast off all the
+remaining stitches, sew the beads on the black parts from illustration;
+also the clasp and bead tassel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+318 to 320.--_Knitted Antimacassar or Berceaunelle Cover._
+
+Materials: Grey and violot fleecy wool.
+
+[Illustration: 318.--Square for Antimacassar.]
+
+This antimacassar, part of which is seen on No. 320, smaller than full
+size, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are knitted
+separately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine knitting-needles.
+In the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted circle of grey wool. The
+edge of the antimacassar is ornamented with a grey woollen fringe. For
+each rosette cast on 6 stitches with violet wool, and knit 12 rows
+backwards and forwards in such a manner that the work is knitted on one
+side and purled on the other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, the
+first stitch of every row is slipped; * then take the first five
+selvedge stitches of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the side
+where the end of wool hangs down, leaving it unnoticed for the present),
+inserting the needle into the back chain of the stitch (the selvedge
+stitch which is next to the cast-on stitch remains, therefore, unworked
+upon), and knit on these a new part, which must have 13 rows; the first
+row is knitted, and in this row work 2 stitches in the first stitch, one
+purled and one knitted, so that this new part is equally six stitches
+wide. Repeat 8 times more from *. After having worked several parts, the
+stitches can, of course, be taken on the same needle, so as not to
+increase the number of needles. When the 10th part is com-* *pleted,
+take the selvedge stitches of the left-hand side of the same on a
+separate needle, cast them off with the cast-on stitches of the first
+part, and fasten the wool. Then take the 6 selvedge stitches on the
+right hand of one part on a separate needle; take the grey wool, and
+work on these stitches 13 rows backwards and forwards; the first row is
+knitted; it is worked on the right side of the work; in this, and in
+every following _knitted_ row, knit the last stitch together with the
+next stitch of the next violet part. When 10 such grey parts are
+completed (each of the remaining 9 parts consists of 13 rows, and begins
+with one knitted row), take all the stitches and the selvedge stitches
+of these parts on four needles and knit with these stitches, also with
+grey wool 1 row knitted, in which the 6 selvedge stitches must be
+decreased to 3 by knitting always 2 stitches together as 1 stitch; each
+of the other stitches is knitted as usual. Then purl 2 rows with violet
+wool, and cast off.
+
+[Illustration: 319.--Rosette for Antimacassar.]
+
+[Illustration: 320.--Part of Antimacassar.]
+
+For the tatted circle in the centre of the rosette, work with grey wool
+a circle consisting of 1 double, and 11 times alternately 1 purl 3-10ths
+of an inch long, 2 double, then 1 purl and 1 double. The circle is sewn
+on the rosette, from illustration, with grey wool. No. 319 shows such a
+rosette full size. The small squares (_see_ No. 318) are worked with
+grey wool; cast on 36 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and
+purl 2 rows. To form the corners, knit together 4 times 2 stitches after
+every 7 stitches in the first of these two rounds, in the second round
+knit together 2 stitches after every 6 stitches; these decreasings and
+those of the other rounds must always take place, at the same places as
+in the preceding round. Then take the violet wool, and knit 7 rows; in
+the first of these knit 4 times 2 stitches together after intervals of 5
+stitches; no decreasings take place in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows; in
+the 3rd row knit together 4 times 3 stitches as 1 stitch, and in the 5th
+and 7th rows 4 times 2 stitches as 1 stitch. After the 7th round, the
+remaining stitches are cast off together as 1 stitch. Then fasten the
+wool and cut it off. Lastly, sew the rosettes and squares together from
+No. 320 for a cover, and edge it round the border with a fringe of grey
+wool.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 321.--Knitted Border.]
+
+321.--_Knitted Border._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 10 or No. 50 knitting
+cotton.
+
+If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for trimming
+a quilt or berceaunette cover; if, on the contrary, fine cotton is used,
+the pattern will form a very pretty collar for a little boy or girl.
+
+To make a collar, begin by a chain of 220 stitches, and work 6 rows
+backwards and forwards alternately, knitting 4 stitches and purling 2.
+
+In the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows the 4 stitches are purled, and the 2 are
+knitted.
+
+7th row: * Purl 2, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *.
+
+8th row: Alternately purl 5, knit 2. All the rows with _even_ numbers
+are knitted like this, except that the number of the knitted stitches
+are increased by 2 in each of them. We will not, therefore, henceforth
+mention these rows.
+
+9th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from
+*.
+
+11th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from
+*.
+
+13th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from
+*. The pattern is continued in the same manner. The small gores formed
+between the ribs are increased by 2 stitches in every second row. Each
+of these gores has 13 stitches in the 21st row, which is the last. Cast
+off all the stitches after this row.
+
+Take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as that used for the
+knitting work 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch of the
+selvedge, then the 2 following rows for the edging. 1st row: Alternately
+1 treble, 1 chain, under which miss 1.
+
+2nd row: Alternately 1 double over 1 treble of preceding row, 1 purl
+(that is, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the first), under which miss 1.
+Over the first row of the knitting work 1 row of close double crochet.
+The border is now completed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+322.--_Knee-cap in Knitting._
+
+Materials: For 1 pair, 4 oz. pink 4-thread fleecy wool, and a small
+quantity of white ditto.
+
+Begin each knee-cap by casting on with pink wool 114 stitches, equally
+divided upon 4 needles, and joining them into a circle. Upon this number
+of stitches work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches.
+In the 48th round begin the gore which covers the knee; it is worked
+separately backward and forwards, always alternately knitting and
+purling 2 stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 322.--Knee-cap in Knitting.]
+
+After 2 rows change the pattern, so as to form small squares Knit the
+first row of this gore upon 26 stitches slipped off from the last row on
+to a separate needle. At the end of each following row knit the nearest
+stitch of the nearest needle, so as to increase 1 stitch in each row of
+the gore.
+
+Continue in this way until only 42 stitches remain of the ribbed part.
+After this work the remainder of the gore separately, decreasing once at
+the beginning and end of each row till only 26 stitches remain; then
+take up 23 stitches of the selvedge on each side of these 26 stitches,
+and work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches.
+
+The edging at the top and bottom of the knee-cap is worked in crochet.
+With white wool make a chain of 50 stitches; turn and work 1 row of
+crochet _à tricoter_; then work a second row thus: the first part, as
+usual, with white, but coming back, with pink make 4 chain between each
+stitch, work in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain,
+thus forming a small ruche, and sew it on to the edge of the knitting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+323.--_Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool._
+
+Material: Black Shetland wool.
+
+This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern
+(commencing at the corner).
+
+1st row: slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the
+back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together.
+
+2nd row: Knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
+forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next
+row the holes are alternated; the neckerchief must of course be
+increased at the beginning and end of every other row. It measures at
+the upper edge 1 yard 16 inches across from one corner to the other; the
+lower corner is rounded off. The neckerchief is edged with a knitted
+lace.
+
+[Illustration: 323.--Knitted Neckerchief in Shetland Wool.]
+
+The lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross way. Cast
+on 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:--Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
+
+2nd row: Slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the stitch formed in
+the preceding row by throwing the wool forward.
+
+3rd row; Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the
+wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 5.
+
+4th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed in
+the preceding row by throwing the wool forward, purl 13.
+
+5th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the
+wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
+
+6th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing
+the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.
+
+7th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the
+wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2 together, knit 4.
+
+8th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing
+the wool forward in the preceding row, purl 13.
+
+9th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times alternately; knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.
+
+10th row: Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the
+wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.
+
+11th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately knit 2 together,
+throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
+
+12th row: Slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
+forward in preceding row, purl 13.
+
+13th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, 5
+times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.
+
+14th row: Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.
+
+15th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 2 together, 4
+times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3.
+
+16th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.
+
+17th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, 3
+times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
+
+18th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.
+
+19th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit 2 together, twice
+alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5.
+
+20th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.
+
+21st row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit 2 together,
+throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
+
+22nd row: Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row.
+
+23rd row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit 2 together,
+knit 7.
+
+24th row: Purled. Repeat from the 1st row till the lace is sufficiently
+long. Then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace can be knitted
+somewhat narrower for the upper edge. One of the ends of the neckerchief
+is knotted, As seen in the illustration, and the other end is drawn
+through the knot.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_324 and 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves._
+
+Materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black silk
+elastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons.
+
+This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple wool, so
+that the raised ribs appear black on one side and purple on the other.
+The bodice fits quite close. It is fastened in front with black bone
+buttons and a steel buckle. Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at
+the bottom. Begin at the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast
+on 170 stitches. The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not
+too loose. Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--Slip the 1st
+stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were going
+to purl it, and knit 1. In the next row knit together the stitch which
+has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward,
+slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool forward. In the
+25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as before.
+
+[Illustration: 324.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Back).]
+
+[Illustration: 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Front).]
+
+Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with purple, but as
+the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be alternately knitted
+and purled. Work always 2 rows on the same side from right to left. The
+following 26th row is worked with black wool in common brioche stitch,
+only the slipped stitch of the preceding row is purled together with the
+stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. 27th row: Turn the work,
+with purple wool purled brioche stitch. 28th row: On the same side with
+black wool knitted brioche stitch. After having worked 40 rows all in
+the same manner, begin the front gore. Divide the stitches upon three
+needles, 82 stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for
+each front part on the two other needles. Then work the first 11
+stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that side of
+the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted brioche stitch;
+the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with the wool thrown
+forward, therefore it is a purple rib. After this stitch begin the gore
+with the following 13 stitches. The ribs are then worked so that a
+purple one comes over a black one, and a black one over a purple one. Do
+not work upon the following black stitch; knit the following stitch with
+the one formed by throwing the wool forward. Throw the wool forward, and
+then only slip the black stitch which had been left, so that it comes
+behind the stitch which has just been knitted. This crossing of the
+stitch is repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together
+with the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool
+forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single
+black stitches. The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by throwing the
+wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are then knitted
+together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in opposite
+directions. The three black stitches which are knitted off together as 1
+stitch in the next row form the middle line of the front gore, and are
+continued in a straight line to the point of the gore. The crossing
+takes place twice in this row, but now the black stitch is slipped
+first. After the 24th stitch knit together the following stitch with the
+stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. Then continue to work in
+common brioche stitch to the other front part, where the gore begins
+before the 24th stitch from the end. In the next row, which is worked in
+purled brioche stitch with black wool, take up the black loop between
+two purple ribs after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitch
+which is missing at that place. The 3 slipped stitches in the preceding
+row are purled together as one stitch with the stitch formed by throwing
+the wool forward between the ribs. The loop is also taken up on the
+other side of the front gore in the same manner, as well as on the other
+front part. Then work 6 rows without increasing or decreasing. The
+crossing of the stitch is repeated after every 7 rows, always on the
+knitted brioche stitch side, with purple wool. In the 18th row of the
+gore the 3 middle stitches are not knitted together, but separately, so
+that the pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. In the back 30 stitches
+only must be decreased, two in every 6th row. After the 60th row another
+decreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for the
+neck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch from the
+front edge in every 3rd row. The 5 stitches which close to the neck are
+cast off together with the 5 stitches on the shoulders. Then cast off
+loosely the stitches of the back; take all the selvedge stitches of the
+front on the needles, and knit 24 rows of brioche stitch with black
+wool, making 9 button-holes on the right front part. On the wrong side
+of this part sew on a strip of black silk, with slits worked round in
+button-hole stitch, stitching at the same time into the knitting. The
+following scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round the
+armholes with black wool:--Take the selvedge stitches on the needles,
+work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch purled, thread the
+wool into a Berlin wool-work needle, * cast off 3 stitches together,
+draw the wool through the needle, and take the 2 following stitches on
+the wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from *. Sew on the buttons the
+strips of silk elastic on either side of the black stripe at the bottom,
+and fasten the ends of the latter with the steel buckle.
+
+
+_326.--Baby's Boot._
+
+Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin wool;
+steel knitting-needles.
+
+This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a sock in
+white wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the upper
+scalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red wool, divide
+them on four needles, and knit in rounds as follows:--1st and 2nd
+rounds: With red wool, purled.
+
+3rd to 8th round: With white wool.
+
+3rd round: Knitted.
+
+4th round: * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1, throw the wool
+forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times more from *.
+
+5th round: Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the wool forward are
+knitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at the place where 3
+stitches were knitted together in the 4th round, so that the decreasing
+of the preceding round forms the middle stitch of the 3 stitches to be
+decreased in this round.
+
+6th and 7th rounds: Like the 5th.
+
+8th round: Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left.
+
+9th to 11th round: With red wool. 9th round: Knitted.
+
+10th and 11th rounds: Purled.
+
+12th to 30th round: With white wool.
+
+12th round: Knitted.
+
+13th round to 30th round: Alternately purl 1, knit 1, inserting the
+needle in the back part of the stitch.
+
+31st to 33rd round: With red wool.
+
+31st round: Knitted.
+
+32nd round and 33rd round: Purled.
+
+34th and 35th rounds: With white wool. 34th round: Knitted.
+
+35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Each
+stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch in
+the next round.
+
+36th to 38th round: With red wool.
+
+36th round: Knitted.
+
+37th and 38th rounds: Purled.
+
+39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if
+you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped
+stitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped stitches.
+
+[Illustration 326.--Baby's Boot.]
+
+Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 stitches
+untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool. 48th to 50th
+row: With red wool.
+
+48th row: Knitted.
+
+49th row: Purled.
+
+50th row: Knitted.
+
+51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern described in the 39th
+round. But as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit
+and purl the stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end
+of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th
+row, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red
+wool.
+
+86th row: Knitted.
+
+87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl
+2, knit 1.
+
+Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th,
+decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the whole number of
+stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the gored part and dividing
+them with the 30 other stitches on four needles. Knit once more in
+rounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round
+purled. In the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together in
+the middle of the back part of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other
+round decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9
+stitches between the two decreasings. The number of stitches between the
+decreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form
+slanting lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by
+knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock part
+is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red
+stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4
+rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside;
+then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-work
+row in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels to
+match.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+327.--_Knitted Border for a Bedquilt_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 8 white knitting cotton;
+thick steel pins.
+
+Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the border,
+which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows:
+
+5th row: Alternately make 1, knit 2 together.
+
+Then 5 more plain rows.
+
+[Illustration 327.--Knitted Border for a Bedquilt.]
+
+Now begin the pattern:--1st row: * Make 1, knit 1 _slantways_ (to knit a
+stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and from
+right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4 times more
+than from * to the end of the row.
+
+2nd row: Purled.
+
+3rd row: Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways.
+Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
+
+4th row: The same as the second.
+
+The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our illustration. The
+increasing caused by knitting the _made_ stitches is regularly repeated
+in each second row, so that the stitches between the striped divisions
+increase, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the other
+hand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain
+this result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows,
+by purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so
+that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In the
+28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted slantways, so
+that there will be only 6 stitches left for each division; these
+stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. In the 31st
+row they are knitted together, two and two. There remain in each
+division three more stitches, which are knitted together in the 34th
+row. Two rows entirely purled completethe upper edge of the border.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+328.--_Knitted Quilt._
+
+Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles.
+
+This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different colours, and in
+that case each strip should contain 1 row of patterns; or the quilt may
+be composed of wide strips with several rows of patterns, those of one
+row being placed between those of the preceding. In the first case, that
+is if you work narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide
+strips are preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our pattern
+was worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip is
+knitted the short way.
+
+[Illustration: 318.--Knitted Quilt.]
+
+For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20 stitches.
+
+2nd row: Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make 1, purl 4.
+Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2.
+
+3rd row: Slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled in the preceding
+row, and purl all those that were made.
+
+4th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times
+more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2.
+
+5th row: Slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.
+
+6th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times
+more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2.
+
+7th row: The same as the 5th.
+
+8th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and so on.
+
+9th row: The same as the 5th row.
+
+10th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
+the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from *.
+
+11th row: Knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.
+
+12th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
+over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *.
+
+13th row: The same as the 11th.
+
+14th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
+over, purl 4, and repeat.
+
+15th row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat from * 3 times more;
+knit 2 together, knit 2.
+
+The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are only 4 in
+this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you purl 3 stitches
+instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th made stitch, you purl 4
+more stitches. Repeat alternately these 2 rows of raised patterns, and
+when you have a sufficient number of strips sew them together. Trim the
+quilt all round with a knotted fringe.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+329.--_Stitch in Knitting, for Couvrettes, Comforters, Opera Caps,
+Carriage Shawls, Jackets, &c._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20, or
+fine wool.
+
+Cast on an uneven number of stitches.
+
+1st row: Slip 1, *
+make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. Repeat from *.
+
+2nd row:
+Slip 1, * knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the row.
+[Illustration: 329.--Stitch for Couvrettes, Comforters, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+330 _and_ 331.--_Knitted Veil._
+
+Material: Fine Shetland wool.
+
+[Illustration: 330.--Knitted Veil.]
+
+Illustration 330 represents a knitted veil in reduced size. The original
+was worked with fine Shetland wool in an open pattern; it is edged with
+a knitted lace. Its length is 24 inches, its width 18 inches. Work the
+veil from a paper pattern of a shape corresponding to that of
+illustration 330. Compare the paper shape often with the knitting in
+the course of the work, and try to keep them alike.
+
+Knit the veil in the pattern of the original, or in the pattern of
+illustration 331. For the former one begin at the lower edge of the
+veil, cast on 45 stitches upon thick wooden needles, and work the 1st
+row: * Knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, repeat
+from *.
+
+2nd row: Purled.
+
+3rd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, * throw the
+wool forward, knit 2 together twice, and repeat from *.
+
+4th row: Purled.
+
+5th row: Like the 2nd row. The pattern must be reversed. The pattern
+figures increase with the increasings at the beginning and at the end
+of each row.
+
+The pattern of illustration 331 consists of the 2 following rows:--1st
+row: Slip 1, then alternately throw the wool forward, and knit 2
+together.
+
+2nd row: Entirely knitted; make 1 stitch of the wool thrown forward in
+the last row. When the veil is finished, wet it, and stretch it over
+paper or pasteboard; let it dry, and then edge it with the following
+lace:--Cast on 10, knit the 1st.
+
+2nd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 9.
+
+3rd row: Knitted.
+
+4th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward,
+knit 2 together twice, knit 4.
+
+5th row: Knitted.
+
+6th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward,
+knit 2 together 3 times, knit 3.
+
+7th row: Cast off 3 stitches, knit 10. 8th row: Knitted.
+
+[Illustration: 331. Pattern of Veil.]
+
+[Illustration: 332.--Knitted Pattern with Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+332.--_Knitted Pattern with Raised Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8 or 20.
+
+This pattern is worked in rows going backwards and forwards with thick
+or fine cotton according to the use you wish to make of it. The
+star-like figures on the knitted squares are worked with soft cotton in
+_point de poste_. Cast on a number of stitches long enough (19 stitches
+are necessary for the two squares), work the 1st row: * Knit 11
+stitches, alternately 4 times knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward.
+Repeat from *, The 2nd row is worked like the 1st, only purled, in this
+row, as well as in the following ones, the stitch must be knitted with
+the cotton thrown forward _after_ the stitch, the last stitch of a plain
+square with the first cotton thrown forward of the open-work figure. The
+number of stitches in the last must always be 8. The pattern consists
+alternately of these two rows. Each pattern contains 12 rows, with the
+13th the squares are reversed. The star figures are embroidered with
+double cotton by working 5 chain stitch in the middle of each square;
+draw the needle underneath the knitting to the next centre of a square.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+333 _and_ 334.--_Knitted Table Cover, (see page 578.)_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s coarse knitting cotton; thick
+steel knitting-needles.
+
+[Illustration: 333.--Table-Cover Border.]
+
+This cover is suitable for either a large or a small table, as the
+pattern may be increased as much as required. It is suitable for
+antimacassars. Cast on 4 stitches, join them into a circle, and work the
+1st round four times alternately. Throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+2nd round: Entirely knitted.
+
+3rd round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. Repeat 7 times more from
+*. After every pattern round knit 1 round plain. Until after the 21st
+round, we shall not mention this any more.
+
+5th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. From the
+
+7th to the 12th round the knitted stitches in every other round increase
+by 1 stitch, so that in the 12th round there are 7 stitches between
+those formed by throwing the cotton forward.
+
+13th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2
+together *.
+
+15th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together *.
+
+17th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together *.
+
+19th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, *.
+
+21st round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 *.
+
+22nd round: * Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3
+*.
+
+23rd round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3 *.
+
+24th round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5 *.
+
+25th round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 4.
+
+26th round: Entirely knitted *.
+
+27th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1 *.
+
+28th round: Entirely knitted.
+
+29th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 *.
+
+30th round: Entirely knitted.
+
+31st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3 *.
+
+32nd round: Entirely knitted.
+
+33rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 4 *.
+
+34th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5
+*.
+
+35th round: * Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 5 *.
+
+36th round: * Knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 6
+*.
+
+37th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5 three times, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1 *.
+
+38th round: * Knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 8
+*.
+
+39th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3. throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 *.
+
+40th round: * Knit 9, knit 3 together, knit 10*.
+
+41st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 15, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 3 *.
+
+42nd round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 4
+*.
+
+43rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 13, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 4 *.
+
+44th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 5
+*.
+
+When the cover is completed, edge it all round, with the following
+border worked the short way:--Cast on 5 stitches and knit the 1st row,
+slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2.
+
+2nd row: Slip 1, knit the rest. Repeat this row after every pattern row.
+
+3rd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+5th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.
+
+7th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+9th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.
+
+11th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
+
+13th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2.
+
+15th round: Cast off 8 stitches, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+16th round: Entirely knitted. Begin again at the 1st row, knit a
+sufficient length of the border, and then trim the cover with it on the
+outer edge.
+
+[Illustration: 335.--Looped Knitting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+335.--_Looped Knitting._
+
+Materials: 4-thread fleecy wool; 2 wooden knitting-needles; 1 flat
+wooden mesh.
+
+Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, and knit the 1st row plain.
+
+2_nd Row_.--Slip the 1st stitch; insert the needle into the next stitch,
+and throw the cotton forward as if you were going to knit the stitch;
+place the mesh behind the needle in the right hand, and turn the wool
+which is on this needle upwards, bring it back again on the needle so
+that it is wound once round the mesh, and twice round the needle. Then
+only the double stitch through the second stitch, knit it, and insert
+the needle into the next stitch, and repeat what has been explained.
+Knit the last stitch without a loop.
+
+3_rd Row_.--Before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and knit one
+plain row. Every double stitch is knitted as one stitch, so as to attain
+the same number of stitches as in the 1st row.
+
+4_th Row_.--Like the 2nd row. Repeat these rows as often as required.
+
+This knitting is chiefly used for borders of mats.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 336.--Pattern for Comforters.]
+
+336.--_Knitted Pattern for Comforters._
+
+Materials: 4-thread fleecy; 2 wooden knitting-needles.
+
+Cast on a sufficient number of stitches.
+
+1st row: * 3 stitches in the first stitch, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit
+3 stitches together, repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: Plain knitting.
+
+3rd row: Purled.
+
+4th row: Knitted. Repeat these four rows, only in the next row the 3
+stitches knitted together are worked on the 3 stitches worked in 1
+stitch, and the 3 stitches to be worked in 1 stitch are to be placed on
+the one formed by knitting 3 stitches together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+337.--_Knitted D'Oyley. (See page 579.)_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 36; glazed
+embroidery cotton No. 10; steel knitting-needles.
+
+This pattern is knitted with very fine crochet cotton. The middle part
+as well as the lace border are worked separately; the latter is sewn on
+to the middle part. The spots in the thick parts are worked in
+afterwards with coarser cotton. Commence the pattern in the centre, cast
+on 6 stitches, join them into a circle, and knit 2 plain rounds.
+
+3rd round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward.
+
+4th and 5th rounds: Plain.
+
+6th round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward.
+
+7th round: Plain. Every other round is plain. We shall not mention these
+plain rounds any more.
+
+8th round: Knit 2, * throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the round; lastly, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+10th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together.
+
+12th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together.
+
+14th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together.
+
+16th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together. The
+
+18th, 20th, 22nd, and 24th rounds are worked like the 16th round; only
+the middle plain part of the pattern figures increases by 2 stitches in
+every pattern round, so that there are 15 plain stitches in the 24th
+round between the 2 stitches formed on either side of the same by
+throwing the cotton forward.
+
+26th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2
+together.
+
+28th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
+
+30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6,
+throw the cotton forward knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward.
+
+32nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 13, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward.
+
+34th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward.
+
+36th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward.
+
+38th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 7, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward.
+
+40th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward.
+
+42nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the
+cotton forward.
+
+44th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit
+3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5,
+throw the cotton forward.
+
+45th and 46th rounds: Plain, then cast off loosely.
+
+For the lace border, which is worked in the short way backwards and
+forwards, cast on 22 stitches and knit as follows:--1st row: Slip 1,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together.
+
+2nd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 11.
+
+3rd row: Slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.
+
+4th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 9.
+
+5th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1.
+
+6th row: Knit 2 together (knit together the stitch and the next stitch
+formed by throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2,
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 10.
+
+7th row: Slip 1, knit 10, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together (stitch formed by
+throwing the cotton forward and the next stitch).
+
+8th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 12.
+
+9th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit
+2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together.
+
+10th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+14.
+
+11th row: Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 3 together. Then begin again on the 2nd row, and
+work on till the border is long enough; sew the lace on to the centre,
+slightly gathering the former. Lastly, work in the spots with glazed or
+coarse embroidery cotton.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_338.--Knitted Braces_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8 or 12.
+
+These braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double; the
+braces themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are knitted
+plain. Begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a foundation chain
+of 14 stitches, knit 5 rows plain backwards and forwards, then divide
+the stitches into two halves to form the button-hole; knit 15 rows on
+each of the halves consisting of 7 stitches; then take the 14 stitches
+again on one needle and work 17 rows on them. Then work a second
+button-hole like the first one; knit 6 more rows plain, increasing 1 at
+the end of every row, so that the number of stitches at the end of the
+lappet is 20.
+
+Then begin the pattern in brioche stitch; it is worked as follows:--Knit
+first 1 row, then slip the first stitch of the first following pattern
+row, * throw the cotton forward, slip the next stitch (slip the stitches
+always as if you were going to purl them), knit 2 together; repeat 5
+times more from *; the last stitch is knitted.
+
+2nd row of the pattern: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 2; the stitch which
+has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward is
+slipped after the 2nd knitted stitch; repeat 5 times more from *; knit
+the last stitch.
+
+3rd row: Slip the 1st stitch, * decrease 1 (here, and in all the
+following rows, knit the next stitch together with the stitch before it,
+which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton
+forward), throw the cotton forward, slip 1; repeat from *; knit the last
+stitch.
+
+4th row: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 1, slip the stitch which has been
+formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward, knit 1, knit
+the last stitch. Repeat these 4 rows till the braces are long enough.
+The pattern is 19 inches long. Then knit 6 rows plain, decreasing 1 at
+the end of every row, then work each lappet separately, dividing the
+stitches so that each lappet is 7 stitches wide. Each lappet has 72
+rows; after the first 18 rows make a button-hole as described for the
+preceding one. Work 18 rows between the 1st and 2nd button-hole. The
+lappets are rounded off by decreasing after the 2nd button-hole.
+
+[Illustration: 338.--Knitted Braces.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+339.--_Pattern for Knitted Curtains, &c._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8.
+
+This pattern is suitable for knitting different articles, according to
+the thickness of the cotton used. The number of stitches must be
+divided by ten. The pattern is knitted backwards and forwards.
+
+[Illustration: 339.--Pattern for Knitted Curtains.]
+
+1st row: All plain.
+
+2nd row: * Knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
+the knitted one, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2. Repeat from *.
+
+3rd row: Purl the long stitch formed by making 2 in preceding row, *
+make 2, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make 2, purl 3. Repeat
+from *. (By _make_ 2 is meant twist the cotton twice round the needle,
+which forms one long stitch, and is knitted or purled as such in next
+row.)
+
+4th row: Knit 3, * make 2, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitch
+over, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 5. Repeat from *.
+
+5th row: Purl 3, * make 2, purl 3 together, make 2, purl 7. Repeat
+from*.
+
+6th row: Knit 3, * knit 2 together (1 stitch and 1 long stitch), make 2,
+knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (the
+knitted stitch is a _long stitch_), knit 5. Repeat from *.
+
+Continue the pattern by repeating always from the 2nd to the 5th row;
+the 6th row is the repetition of the 2nd row, but it is begun (compare
+the two rows) about the middle of the 2nd row, so as to change the
+places of the thick diamonds in the following pattern. This will be
+easily understood in the course of the work.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_340.--Knitted Insertion._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20 or 30.
+
+Cast on 14 stitches, and knit in rows, backwards and forwards, as
+follows:--1st row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit
+2, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw
+cotton forward, knit 3. This row is repeated 18 times more; the stitch
+formed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch.
+
+20th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; place next 3 stitches
+upon another needle behind the cotton, and leave them alone; knit 1,
+knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, now knit the first 2 of the 3
+stitches which have been left; knit the last of the 3 together with the
+next stitch on the needle, throw cotton forward, knit 3. Repeat these 20
+rows till strip is long enough.
+
+[Illustration: 340.--Knitted Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+341 _and_ 342.--_Knitted Cover for Sofa Cushion._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 12; eight
+ply fleecy wool.
+
+[Illustration: 341.--Stitch for Sofa Cover.]
+
+This cushion (15 inches wide, 12 inches high) is made of grey calico; it
+is covered on one side with knitting, worked with grey crochet cotton.
+The knitted cover has an open-work pattern, worked backwards and
+forwards on a number of stitches which can be divided by 2, and which
+must suit the width of the cushion, in the following manner:--1st row:
+Alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.
+
+2nd row: Slip 1, knit the other stitches. The stitch formed by throwing
+the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch.
+
+3rd row: Knit 1, * throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. Repeat
+from *; after the last decreasing knit 1.
+
+4th row: Like the 2nd row.
+
+These four rows are repeated till the cover is sufficiently large. Draw
+a narrow piece of red worsted braid through every other open-work row of
+the pattern, as can be seen in illustration 341. When the cushion has
+been covered with the knitting, it is edged all round with a border
+knitted the long way, in the above-mentioned open-work pattern; it is 14
+rows wide, and also trimmed with worsted braid: a fringe of grey cotton
+and red wool, 3 1/4 inches wide, is sewn on underneath the border at the
+bottom of the cushion; to this is added a thick red worsted cord, by
+which the cushion is hung on over the back of an arm-chair. The
+cushion, on account of its simplicity, is especially suitable for garden
+chairs.
+
+[Illustration: 342.--Sofa Cushion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+343.--Netted Nightcap.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12.
+
+This cap is netted with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring
+three-quarters of an inch round; work first a long square for the centre
+of the crown, cast on 28 stitches, and work backwards and forwards 27
+rows with the same number of stitches. Then work 34 rounds round this
+square, and fasten the cotton. Then count 43 stitches for the front
+border, and 24 stitches for the back border, and leave them for the edge
+of the cap. On the remaining stitches on each side work the strings in
+95 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches; each
+string is pointed off at the lower end by decreasing 1 stitch in every
+row. Sew in a narrow piece of tape in the back border of the cap; the
+remaining part of the border, as well as the strings, are trimmed with
+crochet lace or with netted edging, No. 311.
+
+[Illustration: 343.--Netted Nightcap.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+344.--_Netted Nightcap_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton, 3-thread, No.
+30.
+
+[Illustration: 344.--Netted Nightcap.]
+
+This nightcap is very simple and practical. It consists of two similar
+three-cornered pieces, sewn together so as to form a double triangle;
+the point of the triangle is turned back, as seen in illustration, and
+fastened on the lower half of the same. The cap is edged with a lace; a
+similar lace covers the seam between both parts of the cap. The pattern
+is worked with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an
+inch round. Begin each half in the corner; cast on 2 stitches, and work
+backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row,
+till the number of stitches is 60. Then sew both halves together, and
+trim the cap and strings (the latter are worked as on the cap No. 343)
+with the following lace: work 2 rows of open-work treble stitches--the
+treble stitches are divided by 1 chain--then work 1 row of double,
+always working 4 double round the chain stitches which divide 2 treble
+in the preceding row, or with netted edging No. 311.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+345.--_Knitted Pattern_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20 for
+couvrettes, or Berlin wool for sofa quilts.
+
+This pattern can be worked either in wool or cotton, and is suitable for
+many purposes. Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, divided by 18,
+for the 1st row: Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6, repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: The stitches knitted in the 1st row are purled as well as the
+stitches formed by throwing the cotton forward; the purled stitches are
+knitted. This row is repeated alternately, therefore we shall not
+mention it again.
+
+3rd row: * Knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2.
+
+5th row: Purl 4, * knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6.
+
+7th row: Knit 2, * purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
+
+9th row: Knit 2, * purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
+
+11th row: * Knit 6, purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.
+
+13th row: Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, * knit 4, purl 6,
+knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together.
+
+15th row: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2, knit 6. The knitting can now
+be easily continued from illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 345.--Knitted Pattern.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+346 _to_ 348.--Knitted Shawl.
+
+Materials: Shetland wool, white and scarlet; steel needles.
+
+[Illustration: 346.--Pattern for Shawl (348).]
+
+[Illustration: 347.--Pattern for Shawl (348).]
+
+This shawl is knitted in the patterns given on Nos. 346 and 347. Both
+illustrations show the patterns worked in coarse wool, so as to be
+clearer. Begin the shawl, which is square, on one side, cast on a
+sufficient number of stitches (on our pattern 290); the needles must not
+be too fine, as the work should be loose and elastic.
+
+Knit first 2 rows plain, then 3 of the open-work row of pattern No. 346,
+which is worked in the following manner:--1st row: Slip the first
+stitch, * knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of
+the stitch, slip 1, knit 2 together, throw the wool twice forward;
+repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: Knit 1 and purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
+forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next
+row the holes are alternated--that is, after the 1st slipped stitch knit
+1, throw the wool forward, and then knit twice 2 together.
+
+When 3 such open-work rows are completed, knit 1 row plain, and then
+work the pattern seen on No. 347, which forms the ground, and is worked
+in the following way:--1st row: Slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw
+the wool forward, and decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next,
+and drawing the slip stitch over the knitted one.
+
+2nd row, entirely purled.
+
+When 6 such rows have been worked in this pattern, work again 9 rows of
+the open-work pattern, but work on each side of the 2 stripes, each 6
+stitches wide, in the pattern of the ground (No. 347); each first stripe
+is at a distance of 4 stitches from the edge, and each second stripe at
+a distance of 20 stitches. After the 9th open-work row, work again 6
+rows in the pattern of the ground, then again 8 open-work rows, and then
+begin the ground, only continue to work on both sides of the shawl the
+narrow stripes of the ground pattern, the narrow outer and the two wide
+inner stripes of the border in the open-work pattern. When the ground
+(pattern No. 347) is square, finish the shawl at the top with two wide
+and one narrow open-work row, as at the bottom, divided by stripes in
+the ground pattern. Knot in, all round the shawl, a fringe of scarlet
+wool; the fringe must be 3-1/2 inches deep.
+
+[Illustration: 348.--Knitted Shawl.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TABLE OF SIZES OF MESSRS. WALTER EVANS & Co.'s
+KNITTING COTTON, 3 THREADS.
+
+|------------------|-----------------------------|
+|                  |                No.          |
+|------------------|-----------------------------|
+|Borders           |                20, 80       |
+|Couvrettes        |                8            |
+|D'Oyleys          |                80, 100      |
+|Edgings           |                16, 30       |
+|Insertions        |                30, 50       |
+|Nightcaps         |                20           |
+|Quilts            |                4, 8, 12     |
+|Socks             |                20           |
+|Table Covers      |                16           |
+|------------------------------------------------|
+
+
+
+MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS.
+
+
+
+ALPHABETS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+349.--_Alphabet_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+These letters are embroidered in overcast stitch and in satin stitch,
+and are the capitals for the alphabet No. 350. Stars ornament this very
+effective alphabet.
+
+[Illustration: 349.--Alphabet (Capitals).]
+
+
+350.--_Alphabet (Small Letters)_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+This alphabet will be found useful for marking linen as well as
+pocket-handkerchiefs. It is worked in satin stitch, the stars in fine
+overcast; an eyelet-hole occupies the centre of each star.
+
+[Illustration: 350.--Alphabets (Small Letters)]
+
+
+
+351.--_Alphabet of Small Capitals_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 12 for
+linen. No. 18 for handkerchiefs.
+
+These letters will be found useful for marking table-linen; they may be
+worked either in green, red, or white cotton. The letters are worked in
+raised satin stitch with raised dots and open eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 351.--Alphabet of Small Capitals.]
+
+
+352.--_Alphabet_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 12.
+
+This pretty alphabet is worked in satin stitch, both raised and veined;
+the design is composed of forget-me-not blossoms and leaves. Raised dots
+worked in satin stitch form all the fine lines.
+
+[Illustration: 352.--Alphabet in Satin Stitch.]
+
+353.--Alphabet in Coral Stitch.
+
+Material: Coloured ingrain marking cotton, or black sewing silk, or
+filoselle.
+
+The letters of this alphabet are particularly suitable for
+pocket-handkerchiefs. The embroidery is worked either with marking
+cotton, or coloured or black sewing silk; the long white lines are
+worked in overcast stitch, the small white spots in satin stitch, the
+remaining parts of the letters in coral stitch, as can be distinctly
+seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 353.--Alphabet in Coral Stitch.]
+
+
+354--- Small Alphabet.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This useful alphabet is worked in satin stitch, veined in parts and
+ornamented with tendrils. As the alphabet of capitals (page 377, No.
+351) and that of these small letters correspond, any name may be worked
+from them.
+
+[Illustration: 354.--- Alphabet of Small Letters.]
+
+
+355.--Alphabet (Capitals).
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and
+20.
+
+This alphabet is worked in raised satin stitch, the outlines being
+partly scalloped; for the fine lines, which should be worked in
+overcast, embroidery cotton No. 20 should be employed.
+
+[Illustration: 355.--Alphabet in Satin Stitch.]
+
+
+356. Alphabet (Capitals).
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+The alphabet here illustrated is in the florid style; the graceful
+flowing lines are worked in raised satin stitch, as well as the
+variously-sized dots which ornament the letters.
+
+[Illustration: 356.--Alphabet (Florid Capitals).]
+
+
+357--Alphabet.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and
+16.
+
+The letters are worked in point d'or, or dotted stitch, with an outline
+in fine overcast, and large raised spots in satin stitch. The ornamental
+wreaths round the first five letters can of course be worked round any
+of the others. It is very fashionable to work one letter only upon
+handkerchief corners.
+
+[Illustration: 357.--Alphabet in paint d'or.]
+
+358.--_Alphabet in White Embroidery_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16
+
+This alphabet is worked in appliqué; the ears of corn only are worked in
+overcast, satin, and knotted stitch. These letters look particularly
+well on transparent materials. The ears may be omitted by beginners,
+though they add much to the beauty of the alphabet. To this alphabet are
+added the ten numerals, which will be found exceedingly useful. By means
+of the whole alphabet and all these figures, any combination of initials
+and numbers can be made.
+
+[Illustration: 358.--Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery.]
+
+
+359.--_Alphabet (see page_ 402).
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20; very
+fine black silk.
+
+The vine-leaves and grapes of this graceful and fanciful alphabet are
+worked in veined and slightly raised satin stitch, the tendrils in point
+russe; for these the fine black silk is employed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+360.--_Sampler (Frontispiece_).
+
+Materials: cambric muslin or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16, 18, and 20; red cotton and black silk.
+
+This illustration shows a sampler which will be found useful for
+learning to embroider letters for marking linen. The material used is
+cambric muslin or fine linen. Work the embroidery with white embroidery
+cotton, red cotton, or black silk. The thick parts of the letters are
+worked in slanting satin stitch and back stitch; the outlines of the
+stitched parts are worked in overcast, as well as the fine outlines of
+the letters and all the fine outlines of the patterns. The monograms and
+crowns are worked in a similar manner. Work button-hole stitch round the
+outside of the sampler. The letters and crowns may, of course, be
+employed for other purposes.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+361.--_Alphabet (Capitals)_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20
+
+This effective alphabet is very easily worked, the stitches employed
+being raised and veined satin stitch, and overcast. The raised dots are
+worked in satin stitch, care being taken to preserve their position in
+the _centre_ of each open space.
+
+[Illustration: 361.--Alphabet (Capitals).]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 362.--Alice.]
+
+362.--_Alice_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+The letters of this name, except the initial letter, are very simple,
+being worked in plain satin stitch, while the initial letter is worked
+in raised satin stitch, point de poste, and overcast.
+
+
+363.--_Amalie_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and
+20.
+
+[Illustration: 363.--Amalie.]
+
+The highly-ornate initial of this name is not difficult to work,
+requiring only great regularity and evenness in embroidering the
+tendrils and eyelet-holes. The veinings of the letter must be carefully
+defined. The remainder of the name is executed in plain satin stitch, a
+few eyelet-holes being introduced.
+
+"Amalie" can easily be altered into "Amelia" by changing the place of
+the _a_ and _e_. In the centre of each letter a large eyelet-hole is
+placed; smaller eyelet-holes of graduated sizes occupy parts of the
+overcast scrolls, which should be worked with No. 20 cotton. The initial
+letter is worked in raised satin stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration: 364.--Amy.]
+
+364.--_Amy_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This pretty name is worked in delicately raised satin stitch and point
+de pois; the dots in dotted satin stitch, and the elegant little design
+beneath is worked in point russe.
+
+
+365.--_Annie_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+[Illustration: 365.--Annie.]
+
+The letter _A_ of this name is rather elaborate, and is worked in point
+de pois or back stitching, the outlines in fine overcast, the letters in
+satin stitch. The ornaments surrounding the word "Annie" are worked in
+overcast.
+
+
+366.--_A.M.K._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This name is worked in satin stitch, with small dots of raised satin
+stitch. The eyelet-holes in the middle letter to be worked in overcast.
+
+[Illustration: 366.--A.M.K.]
+
+
+367.--_B.R._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+[Illustration: 367.--B.R.]
+
+These initials are worked in appliqué in the centre of a medallion in
+satin stitch, overcast, and lace stitches.
+
+
+368.--_Carrie_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+[Illustration: 368.--Carrie.]
+
+This name is very easy to work, being very clearly and simply
+embroidered in overcast and satin stitch. The thick dots may be worked
+without the eyelet-holes if preferred.
+
+[Illustration: 359.--Caroline.]
+
+
+369.--_Caroline_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This pretty name requires care in working; the leaves which adorn the
+letters must be very well defined; they, as well as the letters, are
+embroidered in satin stitch, the initial letter being veined, and the
+ornaments worked in overcast and eyelet-holes.
+
+
+370.--_Charlotte_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+[Illustration: 370.--Charlotte.]
+
+This name is worked in satin stitch and overcast, the small and elegant
+dots in point de russe and graduated satin stitch; the large ones are
+worked in raised satin stitch.
+
+
+371.--_Cornelie_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This word is worked in plain satin stitch, the ornamentation in overcast
+stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 371.--Cornelie.]
+
+
+372.--_C.M._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This design is simple, is worked in graduated satin stitch, and is most
+elegant.
+
+[Illustration: 372--C.M.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 373.--Dora.]
+
+373.--_Dora_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30.
+
+This elaborate design should not be attempted by beginners in the art of
+embroidery; it is worked in overcast stitch, raised and veined satin
+stitch; the tendrils are entirely worked in graduated overcast; the name
+is placed over a graceful spray of wild flowers worked in the
+above-named stitches. This pattern, although originally designed to be
+worked on net or fine muslin, is far more effective when worked on
+cambric or fine lawn.
+
+
+374.--_D.C._
+
+[Illustration: 374.--D.C.]
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These letters are worked in satin stitch and veined satin stitch; the
+forget-me-nots are worked in raised satin stitch with a small
+eyelet-hole in the middle worked in overcast stitch.
+
+
+375.--_Emily_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This
+name is worked in satin stitch, the dots in the middle in point de
+poste, the rest of the letters in satin stitch and in dotted satin
+stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 375.--Emily.]
+
+
+376.--_Ernestine_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This elegant design is most effective; the first letter very elaborate;
+the rest of the letters simply worked in satin stitch. The small stars
+are worked in overcast stitch, and the initial letter itself in veined
+satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 376.--Ernestine.]
+
+
+377.--_Etta_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 10.
+
+The letters which compose this name are formed entirely of leaves,
+flowers, and tendrils, worked entirely in satin stitch and overcast; the
+tendrils which surround the name are worked in overcast, and have a few
+eyelet-holes placed among them.
+
+[Illustration: 377.--Etta.]
+
+
+378.--_Eva_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and
+20.
+
+This name is worked in satin stitch, the leaf in point de sable; the
+veinings are worked in raised satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 378.--Eva.]
+
+
+379.--_E.A._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s White and Red Embroidery Cotton
+No. 30.
+
+This very pretty monogram is worked quite in a new style of embroidery.
+The design represents the emblems of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The
+outlines of the shield and cross are worked in overcast, the initials
+"E.A.," the torch, and the anchor in satin stitch with white cotton, the
+leaves partly in satin stitch with white and partly in point d'or with
+red cotton, with only a fine outline in overcast. The cross and the
+flames of the torch are embroidered in the same manner.
+
+[Illustration: 379--E.A.]
+
+
+380.--_E.A.P._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+These pretty initials are worked in satin stitch, the middle
+letter in point russe and point de poste.
+
+[Illustration: 380.--E.A.P.]
+
+
+381.--_E.P._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These elegant letters are worked in veined and raised satin
+stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 381.--E.P.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 382.--E.R.]
+
+382.--_E.R._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30.
+
+The ovals are worked in overcast and point de pois, the
+letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch and
+overcast.
+
+
+[Illustration: 383.--E.A.]
+
+383.--_E.A._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These initials are placed in a medallion; they are worked in
+satin stitch and overcast, and in appliqué on muslin. For that
+part of the pattern in which the name is to be embroidered the
+material is taken double.
+
+
+384.--_Elisabeth_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+This word is embroidered in satin stitch and overcast. A
+few small eyelet-holes break the monotony of the outlines, and
+give lightness to this name.
+
+[Illustration: 384.--Elisabeth.]
+
+
+385.--_Elise_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and 16.
+
+The open part of these letters is ornamented by one or more
+dots; the thick work is raised over chain stitches worked in
+No. 12, a rather coarser cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 385.--Elise.]
+
+
+386.--_Emma_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+
+This name is worked in satin stitch; the large dots may be worked with
+the eyelet-holes in fine overcast, the smaller dots in satin stitch. The
+remaining letters in raised satin stitch and point de sable.
+
+[Illustration: 386.--Emma.]
+
+
+387.--_F.B._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This elegant monogram is worked in raised satin stitch, the inside
+embroidered with lace. The leaves and tendrils are worked in satin
+stitch and point de sable.
+
+[Illustration: 387.--F.B.]
+
+388.--_F.S._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and
+20.
+
+The initials "F.S." are placed in the pages of an open book, the
+outlines of which are worked in overcast, the sides in point de pois.
+The wreath of flowers which surrounds the book is embroidered in satin
+stitch, the tendrils and veinings are in overcast. The initials are
+worked in fine satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 388.--F.S.]
+
+
+389.--_Fanny._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This name is simply worked in satin stitch and overcast.
+
+[Illustration: 389.--Fanny.]
+
+
+390.--_Francis._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+The initial letter of this elegant design is worked in fine
+over-casting; the centre star in raised satin stitch with lace in the
+middle; the leaves surrounding it in veined satin stitch; the other
+letters are worked in plain satin stitch; and the dots of the line in
+point de poste.
+
+[Illustration: 390.--Francis.]
+
+
+391.--_E.C._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+The initials "E.C." are worked within a frame of overcast outlines and
+satin stitch dots. Vine-leaves and grapes worked in point de pois and
+eyelet-holes are placed as ornaments around the frame.
+
+[Illustration: 391.--E.C.]
+
+
+392.--_Gordon_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This pretty name being worked in raised satin stitch, is very suitable
+for gentlemen's handkerchiefs.
+
+[Illustration: 391.--Gordon.]
+
+
+393.--_Helene_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+We give the French version of this pretty name, it being easily changed
+to English "Helen" by omitting the final _e_ in working. The name is
+worked in plain satin stitch, slightly raised at the thickest parts of
+the letters.
+
+[Illustration: 393.--Helene.]
+
+
+394.--_H.D.G._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This elegant design is worked in fine overcast and satin stitch, and
+point de russe.
+
+[Illustration: 394--H.D.G.]
+
+
+395--_Jessie._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This design is very simple to work, the letters being so clear and well
+defined. The thick satin stitch is scalloped in parts.
+
+[Illustration: 395.--Jessie.]
+
+
+396.--_J.C._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 12.
+
+The letters "J.C." are worked in raised satin and overcast stitch, the
+thickest part of each letter being worked in scallops.
+
+[Illustration: 396.--J.C.]
+
+
+397.--_Lina_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This name is worked in raised veined satin stitch; the small stars are
+worked in point russe round eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 397. Lina.]
+
+
+398.--_Lizzie_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This name is worked partly in satin stitch, partly in raised dots and
+fine overcast; the letters are in the Greek style, and have an excellent
+effect if well worked.
+
+[Illustration: 398.--Lizzie.]
+
+
+399.--_L.G.A._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20, and
+Linen Thread No. 16.
+
+Lace stitches are introduced in the medallion which incloses these
+letters, the outlines being worked in overcast and point de pois, the
+pens and initials in raised satin stitch, as also the flowers. The open
+portion is filled in with Mechlin wheels, which are thus worked: A
+number of single threads cross each other in the space to be filled up;
+these are placed about a quarter of an inch from each other. All the
+bars in one direction must now be worked in fine button-hole stitch,
+then the opposite bars must be worked, and the button-hole stitch must
+be continued about six inches past the point where the two lines cross.
+The thread must be slipped loosely round the cross twice, running over
+and under alternately, so as to form a circle; then work in button-hole
+to the centre of a quarter of the circle; make a dot by inserting a pin
+in the next button-hole and working three stitches in the loop thus
+formed by the pin. These dots may be omitted from these wheels.
+
+[Illustration: 399.--L.G.A.]
+
+
+400.--_L.C._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+The effect of this design when well worked is excellent, for, although
+simple, the contrast between the letters and stars throws each into
+relief. Veined and raised satin stitch, with very small eyelet-holes,
+are the stitches used here.
+
+[Illustration: 400.--L.C.]
+
+
+401.--_Marie_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 20 and
+36.
+
+This name is embroidered in satin stitch; the veinings are well defined,
+and the tendrils should be worked with No. 30 cotton, as they require
+very fine work. Stars of overcast and eyelet-holes are the only
+ornaments. [Illustration: 401--Marie.]
+
+
+402.--_Maria_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30.
+
+The initial letter of this name is worked in overcast and point de pois,
+the remaining letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch
+and overcast.
+
+[Illustration: 402.--Maria.]
+
+
+403.--_Maude_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This name is worked in veined satin stitch; the small stars in raised
+satin stitch, and the elegant tendrils are worked in overcast. This work
+is peculiarly adapted for the marking of a trousseau.
+
+[Illustration: 403.--Maude.]
+
+
+404.--_M._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This elegant design can be worked in coloured silk if preferred, or the
+coronet omitted at will. The letter "M" is worked in raised and veined
+satin stitch; the centre stars are worked in fine overcast round an
+eyelet-hole; the coronet is worked in very fine satin stitch and point
+de pois, and stars to correspond with those worked in the letter and in
+the wreath below, the leaves of which are worked in satin stitch and
+overcast stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 404.--M.--Handkerchief Corner.]
+
+
+405.--_M.B.D._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+These initials are worked in satin stitch and overcast, the open work in
+fine overcast round eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 405.--M.B.D.]
+
+[Illustration: 406.--M.B.G.]
+
+406.--_M.B.G._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These elegant letters are simply worked in graduated satin stitch and
+fine overcast with eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 407.--M.H.E.]
+
+
+407.--_M.H.E._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This elegant design is worked in graduated satin stitch, the middle
+letter is done in point croisé. This stitch is only worked on very thin
+and transparent materials. Insert the needle into the material as for
+the common back stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on the
+opposite outline of the pattern so as to form on the wrong side a
+slanting line. Insert the needle again as for common back stitch.
+
+
+408.--_Natalie._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30.
+
+The initial letter of this word contains all those following, and is
+surrounded by a wreath of roses and other flowers; these are worked in
+satin stitch, the leaves in point de pois, the letters in raised satin
+stitch. The dots which are represented on the groundwork of the initial
+are worked in back stitching; these may be worked in scarlet ingrain
+cotton if desired for morning handkerchiefs.
+
+[Illustration: 408.--Natalie.]
+
+
+409.--_O.R._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This monogram is worked in satin stitch, and the oval is worked in
+eyelet-holes of graduated sizes.
+
+[Illustration: 409.--O.R.]
+
+
+410.--_Phoebe_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+The first letter of this word is very elaborate; it is worked in satin
+stitch, point de sable, and point de pois, the rest of the letters in
+satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 410.--Phoebe.]
+
+
+411.--_Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Perfectionné
+No. 20.
+
+[Illustration: 411.--Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs]
+
+This monogram is worked partly in appliqué, partly in satin stitch. For
+the middle part of the medallion sew on the pattern in appliqué of
+cambric with button-hole stitch; the remaining part of the embroidery is
+worked in satin stitch and point russe.
+
+
+412.--_Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20, and
+Linen Thread No. 20.
+
+This monogram is also worked in appliqué and satin stitch. The circle
+all round the medallion is worked in appliqué; in the middle work lace
+stitches from illustration. The edge of the medallion is worked round
+with button-hole stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 412.--Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs.]
+
+
+413.--_Rosa_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+Here the name is inclosed in a medallion of overcast and back stitching,
+the lower part having a graceful wreath of leaves worked in satin
+stitch. The letters which form the name are worked in raised and
+scalloped satin stitch and point de pois.
+
+[Illustration: 413. Rosa.]
+
+
+414.--_Rosina_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+The stars round this graceful initial letter are worked in raised satin
+stitch round an eyelet-hole, the leaves in graduated satin stitch, the
+stems overcast, the wreaths of flowers worked in satin stitch and open
+eyelet-holes, the stems and veinings in overcast, and the stars on the
+stems to correspond with those worked in the letter: the rest of the
+letters in simple satin stitch rather thickly raised.
+
+[Illustration: 414.--Rosina.]
+
+
+415.--_R.S._
+
+Materials: Black china silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery
+Cotton No. 16.
+
+These letters are worked in raised satin stitch with a design of point
+russe worked in black silk.
+
+[Illustration: 415.--R.S.]
+
+
+416.--_S.E.B._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These letters are worked in graduated satin stitch, the centre star is
+worked in raised satin stitch, and the four surrounding it as
+eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 416.--S.E.B.]
+
+
+417.--_L.E.P._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+These initials are worked in plain satin stitch, and the elegant stars
+are worked in point russe worked round an eyelet-hole.
+
+[Illustration: 417.--L.E.P.]
+
+
+418.--_Victoria_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+This name is most elaborately worked in satin stitch, over-casting and
+eyelet-holes. The initial letter is worked in satin stitch, and the
+stars in fine overcast round an eyelet-hole.
+
+[Illustration: 418.--Victoria.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+POINT LACE WORK.
+
+
+
+Lace is of two kinds--pillow lace, which is made upon a cushion or
+pillow, and point lace, which is made of stitches or _points_ worked in
+patterns by hand, which are joined by various stitches forming a
+groundwork, also the result of the needle above.
+
+Pillow lace is entirely worked on the pillow or cushion, the pattern and
+ground being produced at the same time. Pillow lace is sometimes
+correctly called bone or bobbin lace, but it appears that the
+distinction has never been very nicely observed either by lace-workers
+or lace-traders, many sorts which are really pillow lace being called
+point, on account of some peculiarity in the stitch or pattern.
+
+The requisites for producing lace in perfection are the dexterity and
+taste of the workers, and the goodness of the material. To produce many
+beautiful fabrics a mechanical dexterity alone suffices, but in
+lace-making the worker must have some artistic talent, even when
+supplied with designs, for any one can perceive that deviations from the
+design are easily made, and that the slightest alteration by a worker
+wanting in taste will spoil the whole piece of workmanship.
+
+The following illustrations are specimens of ancient and modern laces
+from Mrs. Bury Palliser's collection:--
+
+[Illustration: 419.--Dalecarlian Lace.]
+
+[Illustration: 420.--Old Mechlin.]
+
+[Illustration: 421.--Mechlin Lace (Queen Charlotte's).]
+
+No. 419 shows Dalecarlian lace, made by the women of Dalecarlia. This is
+a coarse kind of lace, and is sewn on caps, &c., and, although highly
+starched, is never washed, for fear of destroying its coffee-coloured
+tint, which, it appears, is as much prized now by the Swedish rustics as
+it was by English ladies in the last century.
+
+[Illustration: 422.--Buckingham Point Trolly, 1851 (Black Lace).]
+
+Both these specimens of Mechlin belonged to Queen Charlotte, who much
+admired this elegant lace.
+
+No. 423.--The Bedford plaited lace is an improvement on the old Maltese.
+
+Honiton guipure lace is distinguished by the groundwork being of various
+stitches, in place of being sewn upon a net ground. The application of
+Honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late years almost superseded
+by this modern guipure. The sprigs, when made, are sewn upon a piece of
+blue paper and united on the pillow with "cutworks" or "purlings," or
+else joined with the needle by various stitches--lacet, point, réseau,
+cutwork, button-hole, and purling.
+
+[Illustration: 423.--Bedford Plaited Lace (1851).]
+
+Those who wish to study lace and lace-making should read Mrs. Bury
+Palliser's _History of Lace_ (Sampson Low and Marston).
+
+[Illustration: 424.--Honiton Guipure Lace.]
+
+
+
+POINT LACE.
+
+
+The materials required for this elegant branch of needlework are neither
+numerous nor expensive. TRACING CLOTH, LEATHER, or TOILE CIRÉE, various
+BRAIDS and CORDS, LINEN THREAD and two or three sizes of needles,
+scissors and thimble. TRACING CLOTH is required when ladies copy point
+lace patterns, and is the most convenient mode of taking them, as the
+design can be worked upon the tracing cloth, which, though transparent,
+is very strong; the price is 1s. 6d. per yard. Fine LEATHER is the
+material upon which bought patterns are usually traced, and is decidedly
+more pleasant to work on than is any other material. In selecting
+patterns ladies should choose those traced upon green leather in
+preference to scarlet or buff, as green is better for the eyesight than
+any other colour.
+
+[Illustration: 425.--Point Lace Scissors.]
+
+TOILE CIRÉE is only a substitute for leather, and is not as pleasant to
+work upon in warm weather.
+
+The needles employed are usually Messrs. Walker's needles, Nos. 9 and
+10. The scissors should be small, sharp, and pointed, as in illustration
+No. 425. An ivory thimble may be safely employed in this light work.
+
+[Illustration: 426.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 427.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 428.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 429.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 430.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 431.--Linen Braid.]
+
+The BRAIDS are of various widths and kinds. None but pure linen braid
+should be employed; those with machine-made edgings are eschewed by many
+lace-workers, the plain, loose-woven linen braid of various widths and
+qualities being alone acceptable to experienced hands.
+
+But all ladies do not care to be at the trouble of edging the braid, and
+will find Nos. 426, 428, 430, and 431 very useful. No. 429 is a plain
+linen braid with a vandyked edge, which works out very prettily. No. 431
+is an edged braid with open holes, in imitation of the point lace work
+of the fifteenth century.
+
+Point lace cords resemble the satin stitch embroidery in their close,
+regular smoothness; the price is 1s. per hank, and they are of various
+thicknesses, from the size of a coarse crochet thread up to that of a
+thick piping cord. These cords are used to ornament the braid, and are
+closely sewn on the braid, following its every outline, and serve as
+_beading_ to the edging, being always sewn on the outer edge alone. The
+finer kinds of this cord are used in place of braid where very light
+work is needed, as in the point lace alphabet which forms the
+frontispiece of this work. Directions for laying on the cord when
+employed as braid are given on page 500. When used as a finish only, and
+to impart the raised appearance of Venice and Spanish lace, it is fixed
+on the braid by plain, close sewing. The thread used should be
+Mecklenburg linen thread; that of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. we
+strongly recommend as being of pure linen, washing and wearing well; it
+is pleasant to work with, from the regularity and evenness of the make.
+The numbers run thus:--2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 30, 36,
+and 40--and will be found adapted for every kind of lace stitch. No. 2
+is the coarsest, No. 40 the finest, size.
+
+In working point lace the following directions must be attended to:
+Begin at the left hand, and work from left to right, when not otherwise
+directed, as in reverse rows. Before cutting off the braid run a few
+stitches across it to prevent it widening. Joins should be avoided, but
+when a join is indispensable, stitch the braid together, open and turn
+back the ends, and stitch each portion down separately. When passing the
+thread from one part to another, run along the centre of the braid,
+allowing the stitches to show as little as possible. In commencing, make
+a few stitches, leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and
+cutting it off afterwards. In fastening off, make a tight button-hole
+stitch, run on three stitches, bring the needle out at the back, and cut
+off.
+
+Having now completed our list of materials, we can proceed to lay on the
+braid.
+
+[Illustration: 442.--Mode of Placing the Braid.]
+
+TO PLACE THE BRAID.--No. 442 shows the design traced upon paper or
+tracing cloth, and lightly tacked to a foundation of leather or toile
+cirée. Run on a straight line of braid for the lower edge, with fine
+stitches, working as shown from left to right. Take another piece of
+braid, or the other end of the same piece, and begin to lay the braid by
+"running" stitches in its centre, keeping it as smooth and even as
+possible. The outer edge presents no difficulty, but the inner edge will
+not lie evenly without being drawn in by a needle and thread, as
+follows:--Thread a No. 9 needle with No. 12 Mecklenburg thread about 20
+inches long, fasten the thread to one point, and insert the needle in
+and out of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this thread
+when drawn up will keep the braid in its place. Two or three fastening
+off stitches should be worked when each circle, half circle, or rounded
+curve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing or gathering thread
+remains in the work, and forms an important, though unseen, part of its
+structure.
+
+As much of the beauty of point lace depends upon the manner of placing
+the braid, ladies cannot bestow too much pains upon this part of the
+work, which is a little troublesome to beginners. Many fancy shops now
+undertake this braid-placing for ladies, who can have their own pattern
+braided and commenced or braided alone at trifling expense. Among these
+may be mentioned the following houses:--Goubaud, 30, Henrietta-street,
+Covent-garden. Boutillier, Oxford-street, W.
+
+The stitches used in point lace may be divided into--
+
+STITCHES PROPER, or _points_.
+
+CONNECTING BARS.
+
+FINISHING EDGINGS.
+
+WHEELS, ROSETTES.
+
+The term point lace, or lace stitches (_points_), has of late been
+applied to every stitch executed with Mecklenburg thread, and many
+stitches are erroneously named by modern writers. As there are more than
+one hundred stitches employed in this beautiful art, much study and
+opportunity of seeing specimens of old point lace is required to give a
+novice any idea of the various kinds of point lace; but by attention to
+the following stitches the rudiments of the art may be easily acquired
+and very beautiful lace produced.
+
+The first stitch is POINT DE BRUXELLES, or Brussels lace stitch. This
+stitch, as may be clearly seen in illustration No. 433, is a simple
+button-hole stitch worked loosely and with great regularity. The whole
+beauty of Brussels lace depends upon the evenness of the stitches. This
+stitch is sometimes employed as an edging, but is more often worked in
+rows backwards and forwards, either as a groundwork or to fill spaces,
+as in the point lace collar, No. 496.
+
+[Illustration: 433. Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace).]
+
+[Illustration: 434.--Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace Worked in Rows).]
+
+Brussels Point is the foundation of nearly all the lace stitches.
+
+
+POINT DE VENISE (Venetian or Venice Point) is worked from left to right,
+like Brussels point. Work one loose button-hole, and in this stitch
+work four button-hole stitches tightly drawn up, then work another loose
+button-hole stitch, then four more tight button-hole stitches in the
+loose one, repeat to the end of the row, and fasten off.
+
+[Illustration: 435.--Point de Venise (Venice Point).]
+
+
+[Illustration: 436.--Petit Point de Venise (Little Venice Point).]
+
+PETIT POINT DE VENISE (Little Venice Point) is worked in the same manner
+as Point de Venise, but one tight stitch only is worked in each loose
+button-hole stitch. This is a most useful stitch for filling small
+spaces.
+
+
+[Illustration: 437.--Point d'Espagne (Spanish Point).]
+
+No. 437.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Spanish Point) is worked from left to right
+as follows:--Insert the needle in the edge of the braid, keeping the
+thread turned to the right, bringing it out inside the loop formed by
+the thread (see illustration No. 437); the needle must pass from the
+back of the loop through it. Pass the needle under the stitch and bring
+it out in front, thus twice twisting the thread, which produces the
+cord-like appearance of this stitch. At the end of each row fasten to
+the braid and return by sewing back, inserting the needle once in every
+open stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration: 438.--Close Point d'Espagne (Close Spanish Point).]
+
+No. 438.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Close) is worked in the same way as open
+point d'Espagne, but so closely as to only allow the needle to pass
+through in the next row. This stitch is also worked from left to right;
+fasten to the braid at the end of each row, and sew back to the left
+again.
+
+
+No. 439.--TREBLE POINT D'ESPAGNE is worked in exactly the same way as
+the open and close point d'Espagne, as may be seen in illustration No.
+439.
+
+Three close stitches, one open, three close to the end of each row. Sew
+back, and in the next row begin one open, three close, one open, then
+close to the end; repeat the rows as far as necessary, taking care that
+the close and open stitches follow in regular order. Diamonds, stars,
+and various patterns may be formed with this stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 439.--Treble Point d'Espagne (Treble Spanish Point).]
+
+
+No. 440.--POINT DE GRECQUE is begun from left to right, is worked
+backwards and forwards, and is begun by one stitch in loose point de
+Bruxelles and three of close point d'Espagne; then one Brussels, three
+point d'Espagne to the end of the row; in returning work back in the
+same manner.
+
+[Illustration: 440.--Point de Grecque (Grecian Point).]
+
+
+No. 441. POINT DE VALENCIENNES (Valenciennes Stitch).--This stitch
+appears complicated, but is really easy to work. Begin at the left hand
+and work six point de Bruxelles stitches at unequal distance, every
+alternate stitch being larger. 2nd row: Upon the first large or long
+stitch work 9 close button-hole stitches, then 1 short point de
+Bruxelles stitch under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so on
+to the end of row (right to left).
+
+[Illustration: 441.--Point de Valenciennes (Valenciennes Stitch).]
+
+3rd row: 5 close button-hole in the 9 of previous row, 1 short point de
+Bruxelles, 2 close in the Bruxelles stitch, 1 short point de Bruxelles,
+5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, l short, 5 close, 1 short,
+and repeat. 4th row: 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, 1
+short, 5 close, 1 short, 2 close, l short, and repeat. Continue the rows
+until sufficient of the pattern is worked.
+
+
+[Illustration: 442.--Point d'Alençon, with Twisted Stitch.]
+
+No. 442. POINT D'ALENÇON.--This stitch is used to fill up narrow spaces
+where great lightness is required. Point d'Alençon is worked under and
+over in alternate stitches, like hem stitch. Nos. 442 and 443 show point
+d'Alençon. In No. 442 a twisted stitch is worked over the plain point
+d'Alençon, which is clearly shown in No. 443; this twist is made by
+passing the thread three times round each plain bar, and working the
+knot shown in illustration No. 442 over _both_ strands of the bar.
+
+[Illustration: 443.--Point d'Alençon, with Button-hole Stitch.]
+
+The POINT D'ALENÇON No. 443 is a festoon of close button-hole stitch
+worked over the plain bars.
+
+
+[Illustration: 444.--Point d'Angleterre (Open English Lace).]
+
+No. 444.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE (Open English Lace).--Open English Lace is
+thus worked:--Cover the space to be filled in with lines of thread about
+one-eighth of an inch apart, then form cross lines, intersecting those
+already made and passing alternately under and over them; work a rosette
+on every spot where two lines cross, by working over and under the two
+lines about 16 times round, then twist the thread twice round the
+groundwork thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossing
+threads. No. 445 shows this stitch much enlarged.
+
+[Illustration: 445.--Point d'Angleterre (Enlarged).]
+
+
+No. 446,--POINT TURQUE (Turkish Stitch).--This easy and effective stitch
+looks well for filling either large or small spaces; the thread employed
+should be varied in thickness according to the size of the space to be
+filled. 1st row: Work a loop, bringing the thread from right to left,
+passing the needle through the twist and through the loop, draw up tight
+and repeat. 2nd row: 1 straight thread from right to left. 3rd row: Work
+the same as first using the straight thread in place of the braid, and
+passing the needle through the loop of previous row, as shown in
+illustration No. 446.
+
+[Illustration: 446.--Point Turque.]
+
+
+No. 447.--CORDOVA STITCH is useful for varying other stitches. It
+resembles the point de reprise of guipure d'art, and is worked in a
+similar manner over and under the side of squares formed by straight and
+parallel lines. (See No. 448.)
+
+[Illustration: 447.--Point de Cordova (Cordova Stitch).]
+
+
+No. 448.--POINT DE REPRISE.--This stitch is worked by darning over and
+under two threads, forming a triangle. The space is filled by parallel
+and cross-way bars, placed at equal distances, and on the triangles thus
+produced point de reprise is worked.
+
+[Illustration: 448.--Point de Reprise.]
+
+
+No. 449.--POINT BRABANÇON (Brabançon Lace) is worked as follows:--Left
+to right. 1st row: 1 long loose, 1 short loose, point de Bruxelles
+alternately to end of row. 2nd row: 7 tight point de Bruxelles in the 1
+long loose stitch, 2 short loose point de Bruxelles in the short loose
+stitch of previous row, repeat. 3rd row: Same as first.
+
+[Illustration: 449.--Point Brabançon (Brabançon Lace).]
+
+
+[Illustration: 450.--Point de Fillet (Net Groundwork Stitch).]
+
+[Illustration: 451.--Point de Fillet and Point de Reprise.]
+
+No. 450 is used for groundwork where Brussels net is not imitated, and
+is very effective. It is begun in the corner or crosswise of the space
+to be filled. A loose point de Bruxelles stitch is first taken and
+fastened to the braid, then passed twice through the braid as shown in
+illustration, and worked in rows backwards and forwards as follows:--1
+point de Bruxelles stitch; before proceeding to the next stitch pass the
+needle _under_ the knot, _over_ the thread, and again _under_ it, as
+shown in illustration No. 450. This stitch is very quickly worked. No.
+451 shows point de fillet applied in filling a space, with a few
+stitches of point de reprise worked upon this pretty groundwork.
+
+
+No. 452.--POINT DE TULLE.--This stitch is used as a groundwork for very
+fine work, and is worked in rows backwards and forwards in the same
+stitch as open point d'Espagne, page 457. When this is completed the
+work is gone over a second time, by inserting the needle under one
+twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at +, and bringing it out
+again at the dot. This produces a close double twist which is very
+effective.
+
+[Illustration: 452.--Point de Tulle.]
+
+
+No. 453.--MECHLIN LACE (Mechlin Wheels).--This is one of the prettiest
+stitches in point lace, but also one of the most difficult to work
+correctly. It is thus worked:--Work a number of diagonal bars in
+button-hole stitch on a single thread in one direction, then begin in
+the opposite side the same way, and work 5 or 6 stitches past the spot
+where the two lines cross, pass the thread round the cross twice under
+and over the thread to form a circle. Work in button-hole stitch half
+one quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead of
+drawing the thread tight, and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop
+held open by the pin, then take it out, and continue as before.
+Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on the
+wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal and
+parallel lines of thread.
+
+[Illustration: 453.--Mechlin Lace Wheels.]
+
+
+No. 454.--ESCALIER LACE.--This useful lace may be varied in pattern to
+any extent by placing the open stitches in any desired order; it then
+takes the name of diamond or Antwerp lace, according to the design. True
+escalier lace is made by working nine button-hole stitches close
+together; then miss 3--that is, work none in the space that 3 stitches
+would occupy--work 9, miss 3 as before to the end of row, begin the 2nd
+row 3 stitches from the end, to cause the open spaces to fall in
+diagonal lines--a succession of steps or stairs (_escalier_), which
+gives name to this stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 454.--Escalier Lace Worked in Diamonds.]
+
+
+No. 455.--SPANISH POINT LACE is adorned with highly-raised scrolls,
+flowers, &c. This is effected by working over an underlay of coarse
+white thread or over fine white linen cords. The wheels are worked by
+winding soft coarse linen thread round pencils or smooth knitting-pins
+of various sizes, and working over the circle thus obtained a succession
+of close button-hole stitches. These wheels are sewn on to the lace when
+completed. The groundwork of Spanish lace is usually worked in what are
+called Raleigh Bars (see page 477), but this lace has sometimes for
+groundwork point de Venise. An easy mode of working this handsome lace
+is to trace the design upon very fine good linen; raise the thick parts
+as above directed, and embroider the whole in fine thick scalloped
+button-hole stitch; fill the ground with Raleigh bars, or, as shown in
+illustration No. 455, in treble point de Venise, and cut away the linen
+from beneath the groundwork.
+
+[Illustration: 455.--Spanish Point Lace (Worked à l'Anglaise).]
+
+
+
+WHEELS AND ROSETTES.
+
+
+Wheels or rosettes are used to fill up circles, or in combination to
+form lace. The simplest is--
+
+THE SORRENTO WHEEL.--Nos. 456 and 457.--This is worked by fastening the
+thread in the pattern to be filled up by means of the letters. Fasten it
+first at the place _a_, then at the place _b_, carrying it back to the
+middle of the first formed bar by winding it round, fasten the cotton at
+the place _c_, carrying it back again to the centre by winding it round
+the bar, and so on; then work over and under the bars thus formed as in
+English lace. See page 462, and illustrations Nos. 456 and 457.
+
+[Illustration: 456 and 457.--Sorrento Wheels.]
+
+
+No. 458.--ENGLISH WHEEL.--This is worked in the same manner as the
+Sorrento wheel, but instead of _winding_ the thread over and under the
+bars, the needle is inserted under each bar and brought out again
+between the thread and the last stitch; this gives a kind of button-hole
+stitch, and gives the square, firm appearance possessed by this wheel.
+
+[Illustration: 458.--English Wheel.]
+
+
+No. 459.--ROSETTE IN POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--This rosette is worked in a
+somewhat similar manner to the wheel above described, the difference
+being that after each stitch passed round and under the bars, the thread
+is passed loosely round in the reverse direction, as shown in
+illustration No. 459, before proceeding to make the next stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 459.--Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre.]
+
+
+No. 460 is a rosette or star which is used to fill circles of braid, and
+forms the centre of many modern point lace patterns. It is worked upon
+a pattern traced and pricked in small holes at equal distances. Two
+threads are employed, one coarse tracing thread, the other of finer
+thread. The coarse thread is laid on thus:--Pass the needle containing
+the fine thread, No. 12, through one of the pricked holes, over the
+tracing thread and back through the same hole; repeat, following the
+traced outline until the whole of the coarse thread is laid over the
+outline, then work over in tight button-hole stitch with picots or
+purls, as on the Raleigh bars (see page 477). This mode of laying on
+tracing or outlining thread is also applied to fine braid and to point
+lace cord, as in the alphabet No. 400 (see page 500).
+
+[Illustration: 460.--Rosette for centre of Point Lace Circles.]
+
+
+
+BARS.
+
+
+The word _Bar_ is applied to the various stitches used to connect the
+various parts of point lace work, and the beauty of the work depends
+greatly upon the class of bar and its suitability to the lace stitches
+used. The simplest bar is--
+
+No. 461.--THE SORRENTO BAR.--It is worked from right to left, a straight
+thread being carried across and fastened with a stitch. The return row
+consists of a simple twist under and over the straight thread; three of
+these bars are usually placed close together at equal distances between
+each group. The thread is sewn over the braid in passing from one spot
+to another.
+
+[Illustration: 461.--Sorrento Bars.]
+
+[Illustration: 462.--Sorrento Bars.]
+
+Sorrento bars are also applied as shown in illustration No. 462.
+
+
+No. 463.--D ALENCON BARS are worked upon point de Bruxelles edging, and
+are only applied to the inner part of a pattern, never being used as
+groundwork bars. The thread is merely passed three times over and under
+the point de Bruxelles stitches, the length of these bars being
+regulated by the space to be filled; when the third bar is completed a
+tight point de Bruxelles stitch is used to fasten off the bar, the
+thread is passed through the next point de Bruxelles stitch, and a
+second bar begun.
+
+[Illustration: 463.--D'Alençon Bars.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 464.--Venetian Bar.]
+
+No. 464.--THE VENETIAN BAR is so simple that it hardly needs
+description. It is worked over two straight threads in reverse
+button-hole stitch. No. 465 shows the Venetian bar applied as the
+"veining" of leaf, and worked upon Sorrento bars.
+
+[Illustration: 465.--Venetian Bar.]
+
+
+No. 466.--VENETIAN BARS are worked so as to form squares, triangles,
+&c., in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread. The arrow in the
+illustration points to the direction for working the next.
+
+[Illustration: 466.--- Plain Venetian Bars.]
+
+
+No. 467.--BARS OF POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--These bars may be worked singly
+or to fill up a space, as in illustration. Work rosettes as in point
+d'Angleterre, page 461; when each rosette is finished twist the thread
+up the foundation thread to the top, fasten with one stitch, then pass
+it under the parallel line running through the centre and over into the
+opposite braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting the
+threads as in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 467.--Bars of Point d'Angleterre.]
+
+
+No. 468.--POINT DE VENISE BARS (EDGED).--Begin at the right hand and
+stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid, fastening it
+with one tight stitch of point de Bruxelles. Upon this line work a
+succession of tight point de Bruxelles stitches. In every third stitch
+work one point de Venise stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 468.--Point de Venise Bars (Edged).]
+
+
+No. 469.--We now come to the most important feature of BARS--the _dot,
+picot_, or _purl_, for by all these names it is known. This dot is
+worked in various ways upon different lace bars. Dotted point de Venise
+bars are worked as follow:--
+
+[Illustration: 469.--Dotted Point de Venise Bars.]
+
+Stretch the thread from right to left, on this work five tight stitches
+of point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last stitch to hold it
+open and loose, pass the needle under the loose stitch and over the
+thread, as clearly shown in illustration No. 469, and in this loop work
+three tight point de Bruxelles stitches. Then work five more stitches,
+and repeat to end of row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 470.--Picot or Dot on Sorrento Bar.]
+
+No. 470 shows a dot or picot upon a Sorrento bar worked between rows of
+point de Bruxelles, three twisted stitches being worked into the loop
+left by the twisted thread; this forms a picot resembling satin stitch
+in appearance.
+
+
+Nos. 471 and 472.--RALEIGH BARS are worked over a foundation or network
+of coarse thread, twisted in places so as to more easily fall into the
+desired form.
+
+[Illustration: 471.--Raleigh Bars.]
+
+[Illustration 472.--Network for Working Raleigh Bars.]
+
+
+By following the numbering from No. 1 to 21, in No. 472, a square place
+may be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement applied to form
+groundwork of any shape desired. Upon this groundwork tight point de
+Bruxelles stitches are worked, and the dot worked upon these in one of
+the following ways:--
+
+DOT or PICOT.--1st Mode: Five tight point de Bruxelles stitches, one
+loose point de Bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and over the
+thread, as shown in point de Venise bars No. 469, draw up, leaving a
+small open loop as in tatting. Work five tight point de Bruxelles and
+repeat. 2nd Mode: Proceed as above, but instead of continuing the tight
+stitches work two or three tight stitches in the loop thus formed, and
+repeat. 3rd Mode: Work four tight point de Bruxelles stitches, one
+loose, through which pass the needle point, wind the thread three or
+four times round the point, as shown in illustration No. 473, press the
+thumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and thread through the
+twists. This is a quick mode of making the picot, and imitates most
+closely the real Spanish lace.
+
+
+Illustration No. 473 also shows how this stitch may be applied as a
+_regular_ groundwork, but the beauty of old point groundwork bars is the
+variety of form.
+
+[Illustration: 473.--Third mode of making Picots or Dots.]
+
+
+
+EDGES AND PURL FINISH.
+
+
+The correct edging of lace is a most important part of this art, and
+care should be taken to work a proper edge for each kind of lace.
+Sorrento edging should be worked upon Limoges lace. Spanish lace
+requires a full rich edge, as shown in No. 478, &c. The simplest edge is
+point de Bruxelles, which is worked somewhat like the stitch No. 433,
+and is secured by a knot worked in the braid. Many lace-workers omit
+this knot.
+
+[Illustration: 474.--Point de Bruxelles Edging.]
+
+
+No. 475.--SORRENTO EDGING is worked with one short and one long stitch
+alternately.
+
+[Illustration: 475.--Sorrento Edging.]
+
+
+No. 476.--POINT DE VENISE is worked precisely like that stitch (see page
+456), three and even four stitches being worked in the loop.
+
+[Illustration: 476.--Point de Venise Edging.]
+
+
+No. 477.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE EDGING is worked in point de Bruxelles, the
+thread being again drawn through the braid before proceeding to the next
+stitch. This edging is strong and useful.
+
+[Illustration: 477.--Point d'Angleterre Edging.]
+
+No. 478.--POINT D'ESPAGNE EDGING.--This stitch is easily worked. Insert
+the point of the needle through the braid and wind the thread round it
+20 times, draw the needle through these windings and draw the picot
+tight, sew over the braid the space of 3 stitches, and repeat.
+
+[Illustration: 478.--Point d'Espagne Edging.]
+
+
+No. 479.--ANTWERP EDGE.--This edge is only a variety of point
+d'Angleterre edging, and differs only in the mode of making the knot;
+the thread is passed over, under, and through the loop formed by the
+point de Bruxelles lace.
+
+[Illustration: 479.--Antwerp Edge.]
+
+NOTE.--It will be observed that the stitches here given are much
+enlarged for the sake of clearness in showing details.
+
+
+
+PATTERNS.
+
+
+No. 480.--_Star in Point Lace_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+20.
+
+Trace the outline upon paper or leather, lay the braid on as directed.
+Work the centre in Sorrento bars, and on these work a rosette in point
+d'Angleterre, the edge in point d'Angleterre edging, and the wheels in
+open English lace.
+
+[Illustration: 480.--Star in Point Lace.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 481.--_Medallion in Point Lace_.
+
+Materials: Linen Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 14.
+
+This medallion is useful for cravat ends and for a number of purposes,
+as trimming for sachets, dresses, &c. Having placed the braid as before
+directed, work an English rosette in the centre, fill in the ground with
+point de fillet or with point de Bruxelles. An edging of Spanish point
+completes this pretty medallion.
+
+[Illustration: 481.--Medallion in Point Lace.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 482.--_Point Lace Border_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12.
+
+This border represents the completed work shown on p. 454. A point
+d'Angleterre rosette is worked in each circle. The plain braid is
+edged by Sorrento edging. Venice bars are worked above the trimming, and
+treble point de Venise edges the border.
+
+[Illustration: 482.--Point Lace Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 483.--_Point Lace Border_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+10.
+
+This border is both easily and quickly worked in Sorrento bars. The edge
+is worked in two rows of point de Bruxelles.
+
+[Illustration: 483.--Point Lace Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 484.--_Insertion in Limoges Lace_.
+
+Materials: Plain linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 14.
+
+This insertion will be found very useful, being so quickly worked.
+Edge the braid with Sorrento edging, fill up with bars and plain point
+d'Alençon and Sorrento wheels, No. 456.
+
+[Illustration: 484.--Insertion in Limoges Lace.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 485--_Point Lace Border for Handkerchief._
+
+Materials: Fine lace braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 24.
+
+This border is suited for a handkerchief or for trimming a square
+bodice. The braid is not tacked on by stitches running through the
+centre, as is usual in point lace braids, but sewn on by passing a
+thread from underneath over the braid and out through the same hole, as
+is done by lace-workers with a thick thread; this forms the design. The
+stitches employed in this pattern are Raleigh bars, which connect the
+work; Sorrento edging, which finishes the whole outline; English
+rosettes filling the open spaces. Point lace cord may be used for this
+in place of braid.
+
+[Illustration: 485. Point Lace Border for Handkerchief.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 486.--_Star-Centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos.
+16 and 12.
+
+[Illustration: 486.--Star-centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace.]
+
+This beautiful star will be found useful for other purposes than as a
+toilette cushion cover, and is worked as follows:--English rosette in
+centre; Sorrento wheels in the 4 ovals, worked with No. 12 thread; point
+de Bruxelles ground, worked with No. 16; braid edged by dotted Venetian
+edges. The eight spaces may be filled with 2 or 4 contrasting
+stitches, taking care that they contrast well, and are placed
+alternately, and worked in No. 12.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 487.--Cravat End in Point Lace.]
+
+487.--_Cravat End in Point Lace_.
+
+Materials: Fine braid: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread
+No. 12.
+
+This cravat is worked in Sorrento wheels, point d'Alençon
+bars, and Sorrento edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 488.--Point Lace Edging.]
+
+[Illustration: 489.--Point Lace Edging.]
+
+488 _and_ 489.--_Point Lace Edgings_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos.
+12 and 16.
+
+These edgings can be used as a finish to insertions and other trimmings
+or for edging couvrettes. No. 488 is worked with Sorrento wheels; the
+edge in two rows of point de Bruxelles, a straight thread being drawn
+from the end to the beginning of each scallop over which the second row
+is worked. No. 489 is worked with the same materials in treble point de
+Venise, edged by the same, and finished off with a row of point de
+Bruxelles, the upper edge being worked in the same way.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+490.--_Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &c._
+
+Materials: Linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread Nos. 10 and 16.
+
+This design may be used for a variety of purposes, and is extremely
+effective. The principal stitches required are given at the sides of the
+pattern. _a_ is Valenciennes lace, _b_ Brussels net, _c_ Venetian
+spotted, _d_ Sorrento edging, _e_ Mechlin wheel, _f_ English rosette,
+_g_ Raleigh bars.
+
+[Illustration: 490.--Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+491.--_Oval for Cravats, &c._
+
+Materials: Point lace cord; muslin; embroidery cotton; Messrs. Walter
+Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 14 and 18.
+
+This beautiful oval is worked in point lace and embroidery. This is
+begun from the centre on the muslin by over-casting the space filled by a
+wheel. The eyelet-holes are then worked, and the satin stitch ornament
+raised and prepared for working. The edge, of point lace cord, is then
+laid on, and the under portion edged in tight and open point de
+Bruxelles, the centre of the circles being worked in point de Bruxelles.
+The light groundwork is worked entirely in Mechlin wheels, the satin
+stitch being worked when these are completed. This pattern can be
+enlarged and applied to many purposes. The muslin is cut away when the
+whole work is finished.
+
+[Illustration: 491.--Oval Pattern for Ornamenting Cravats, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+492.--_Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12 or 20.
+
+We give two sizes of thread, as this design is capable of many uses, and
+the size of the thread differs with these. The pattern is worked in
+English rosettes and bars (see No. 467). No. 488 edging looks well with
+this pattern.
+
+[Illustration: 492.--Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+493--_Point Lace Collar._
+
+Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 22.
+
+[Illustration: 493--Point Lace Collar.]
+
+Set on the braid or cord by passing a thread through a hole pricked
+in the pattern over the braid and out again through the same hole. Edge
+the braid with point de Bruxelles, the design being filled by Mechlin
+wheels, Sorrento wheels, point de feston, and the mixed stitch shown in
+No. 494, which is composed of d'Alençon and Sorrento bars, and is easily
+worked. Those who cannot work Mechlin wheels easily, can substitute
+close English, as shown in illustration No. 495. The bars are Sorrento.
+
+[Illustration: 494.--D'Alençon and Sorrento Bars.]
+
+[Illustration: 495.--Close English Wheels.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+[Illustration: 496--Point Lace Collar.]
+
+496.--_Point Lace Collar._
+
+Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 22.
+
+This collar is worked in the same way as No. 493, though the stitches
+vary. The Grecian line is worked in point de reprise, the pattern in
+close English wheels, point de reprise, point de Bruxelles, English
+rosettes, and Raleigh bars.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 497.--Point Lace Lappet.]
+
+497.--_Point Lace Lappet._
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+16 or 24, according to the fineness required.
+
+This lappet is exceedingly pretty. It is composed of the following
+stitches:--Point d'Alençon, point de tulle, English rosettes, Sorrento
+bars, d'Alençon bars, dotted Venise bars, and the fancy stitch point
+d'Anvers, which is not a true point lace stitch, but which is much
+employed in modern point.
+
+[Illustration: 497.--Point Lace Lappet.]
+
+[Illustration: 498.--Point d'Anvers.]
+
+[Illustration: 499.--Point Grecque.]
+
+Point Grecque is another useful variety of fancy stitch, and so easily
+worked as to be a favourite stitch with beginners.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 500.--Letter A in Point Lace.]
+
+[Illustration: 501.--Letter A Enlarged.]
+
+_500 to 502.--Alphabet in Point Lace. (See endpapers.)_
+
+Materials: Point lace cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 36.
+
+This alphabet is useful for marking pocket-handkerchiefs, and for
+initials for sachets, &c. The cord is laid upon the pattern and pricked
+out by passing a thread up through a hole over the cord, and back
+through the same hole; then pass on to the next hole, and repeat. The
+holes should be about an eighth of an inch apart, or nearer when the
+pattern is finely convoluted. The letters are worked in point de
+Bruxelles, point d'Alençon, and dotted Sorrento bars. No. 501 shows the
+letter A greatly enlarged, to show the mode of working.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TABLE OF THREADS SUITED TO VARIOUS
+ARTICLES WORKED IN POINT LACE.
+
+|----------------------------------|-------------------|
+|Caps                              |    36   "   "     |
+|Collars                           |    30   "   "     |
+|Couvrettes                        |    2   4   6      |
+|Cravats                           |    18  30   "     |
+|D'Oyleys                          |     8  10  12     |
+|Dress Trimmimgs                   |    22  30   "     |
+|Edgings                           |    14  30   "     |
+|Handkerchiefs                     |    30  36  40     |
+|Insertions, coarse                |    6   8  12      |
+|   "        fine                  |    24  30   "     |
+|----------------------------------|-------------------|
+
+Point lace cord runs about twelve yards to the hank.
+
+Point lace edged braid runs thirty-six yards on cards.
+
+Plain linen twelve yards in each hank.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+GUIPURE D'ART.
+
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS
+
+IN
+
+GUIPURE D'ART.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Ancient Guipure was a lace made of thin vellum, covered with gold,
+silver, or silk thread, and the word Guipure derives its name from the
+silk when thus twisted round vellum being called by that name. In
+process of time the use of vellum was discontinued, and a cotton
+material replaced it. Guipure lace was called _intelle à cartisane_ in
+England in the sixteenth century. Various modern laces are called
+Guipure, but the word is misapplied, since Guipure lace is that kind
+only where one thread is twisted round another thread or another
+substance, as in the ancient Guipure d'Art.
+
+In every design where lace can be introduced, Guipure d'Art will be
+found useful. It looks particularly well when mounted upon quilted silk
+or satin. The squares, when worked finely, look well as toilet-cushions,
+or, if worked in coarser thread, make admirable couvrettes, and as
+covers for eider-down silk quilts are very elegant. Guipure squares
+should be connected by guipure lace, crochet, or tatting, or they may be
+edged with narrow guipure lace and joined at the corners only when
+placed over coloured silk or satin; thus arranged, a sofa-cushion
+appears in alternate squares of plain and lace-covered silk; a ruche of
+ribbon and fall of lace to correspond completes this pretty mounting.
+
+Not one of the least important attractions of Guipure d'Art is the speed
+with which it is worked, and the ease with which fresh patterns are
+designed by skilful workers.
+
+GUIPURE D'ART is an imitation of the celebrated ancient Guipure Lace,
+and is worked in raised and intersected patterns upon a square network
+of linen thread, Mecklenburg thread of various sizes being used for this
+purpose. The needles employed are blunt, and have large eyes, to admit
+the linen thread.
+
+Materials required: One frame of wire covered with silk ribbon; one
+square of Mecklenburg thread net (_fillet_), either coarse or fine;
+Mecklenburg thread; netting-needles and meshes of various sizes.
+
+The netted foundation, or "_fillet_," upon which this elegant work is
+embroidered, can be made by ladies very easily, and at much less cost
+than when bought ready made.
+
+The square is worked by netting with coarse No. 2 or fine No.10 thread
+over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch or more, in rows
+backwards and forwards. Begin with 2 stitches, and increase 1 at the end
+of every row till you have one more stitch than is required for the
+number of holes. Thus, if a square of 26 holes is required, continue to
+increase up to 27 stitches, then decrease 1 at the end of every row till
+2 stitches only remain. The last 2 stitches are knotted together without
+forming a fresh stitch.
+
+The completed foundation is laced upon the frame, taking the lacing
+cotton through the double edge formed by the increased and decreased
+stitches. If the four corners of the netting are tied at each corner of
+the frame before beginning the lacing, that operation is greatly
+facilitated. The netting should be laced as tightly as possible, it
+being far easier to darn on than when loose.
+
+[Illustration: 503.--Frame for Guipure d'Art.]
+
+Ladies who wish to excel in working guipure d'art should practise each
+of the stitches until they attain perfect regularity and quickness in
+their execution. Two or three hours devoted to this in the first
+instance will not be time wasted, as the most elaborate pattern will be
+worked with ease as soon as the stitches are mastered.
+
+The Mecklenburg thread of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, will
+be found a better colour than any other, as it closely resembles the
+shade of the ancient guipure lace.
+
+It is sold only in spools of 200 yards each, and the numbers run as
+follow; No. 2, 4, 6, 8, lo, 12, 16, 20; No. 2 being the coarsest, and
+No. 20 the finest.
+
+The principal stitches used in guipure d'art are POINT D'ESPRIT, POINT
+DE TOILE, POINT DE FESTON, POINT DE REPRISE, POINT DE BRUXELLES, and
+WHEELS and STARS. POINT D'ESPRIT is worked with finer cotton than the
+foundation, say No. 10 on a foundation of No. 6. It consists of a
+succession of small loops, as will be seen clearly in the illustration.
+The learner should begin from the mark * No. 503, and working a row of
+loops the length required, turn the frame and work loops on the opposite
+half of each square intersecting the first worked loops in the centre of
+each intervening bar of netting. A careful examination of Nos. 503 and
+506 will explain this more clearly than is possible in words.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 504.--Point d'Esprit.]
+
+POINT DE TOILE, or LINEN STITCH, is plain darning under and over each
+thread; this forms a fine close groundwork, and is much used in guipure
+d'art. Care should be taken to keep the same number of stitches in each
+square, both along and across; the number of threads shown in
+illustration No. 504 is 4 only, but 6 and even 8 are used in many netted
+foundations in fine patterns.
+
+[Illustration: 505.--Point de Toile.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINT DE FESTON is worked by a series of overcast stitches, as seen by
+illustration 506, which clearly shows the manner of working. The frame
+is turned at each stitch, the stitches are taken across the squares, and
+increase in length at the top of the square.
+
+[Illustration: 506.--Point de Feston.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINT DE REPRISE, or DARNING, is worked by stretching 2 or 3 threads
+over 1, or 2, or more squares. The thread is darned over and under, and
+the needle used to arrange the last stitch while passing through to form
+the next. This stitch is very easily acquired. It is always worked with
+coarser thread than the foundation; No. 2 thread should be employed for
+a coarse groundwork. No. 510 shows this stitch used to form stars,
+figures, &c.
+
+[Illustration: 507--Point de Reprise.]
+
+[Illustration: 508.--Leaf.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINT DE BRUXELLES, as shown on pages 506 and 507, is a kind of loose
+button-hole stitch, and is used for forming various patterns and for
+filling up squares. It also forms "leaves," when the number of stitches
+is decreased each row until the leaf finishes off in a point. Nos. 509
+and 510 clearly show this stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 509.--Point de Bruxelles.]
+
+[Illustration: 510.--Point de Bruxelles.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+WHEELS are easy to work, and are begun in the centre. Four threads are
+taken across, as shown in design No. 511; the thread is twisted in
+bringing it back to the centre, and the wheel formed by passing the
+thread under and over the netting and the crossing threads. It is
+fastened off on the back of the several wheels.
+
+[Illustration: 511.--Wheel (commenced).]
+
+[Illustration: 512.--Wheel.]
+
+Wheel No. 513 is a square wheel, and is worked in the same manner, with
+the addition of point d'esprit loops, through which, and under and over
+the cross-twisted threads, 4 or 5 rows of thread are passed.
+
+[Illustration: 513.--Square Wheel.]
+
+[Illustration: 514.--Wheel larger than its real size.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+STARS are of various form, as shown in Nos. 516, 517, 518, 519, and 520.
+
+No. 516 is worked in point de feston (see page 507) round a single
+square hole, which is filled in by a small wheel or rosette.
+
+No. 517 is worked in point de feston and point de Bruxelles,
+alternately round a centre simply crossed by point d'esprit threads.
+
+[Illustration: 516.--Star.]
+
+No. 518 is more elaborate, and is worked thus:--Begin at the place
+marked _a_; twist the linen thread 3 times round the nearest thread,
+draw it on to the knot _b_; repeat this 3 times, following the order of
+the letters; twist the linen thread also between the threads, as can be
+seen from the illustration, and fasten it underneath the knot _a_; for
+the wheel fasten on the cotton afresh and work the remaining pattern in
+darning stitch (point de reprise).
+
+[Illustration: 517.--Star.]
+
+[Illustration: 518.--Star.]
+
+No. 520 consists of a double cross formed by twisted loops of linen
+thread. Copy these loops exactly from illustration 520 One part of the
+straight cross lies underneath, then comes the slanting cross, and
+lastly, the other part of the straight cross.
+
+[Illustration: 519.--Detail of Star.]
+
+[Illustration: 520.--Star.]
+
+In the centre the loops of linen thread are fastened with two rounds of
+stitches. (See illustration 520).
+
+OVERCAST STITCH is worked like embroidery overcast, and forms the stems
+of the flowers and leaves of guipure d'art; it is worked over one or two
+coarse threads. It is employed in No. 530, and forms the triangles in
+the centre of the middle squares.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 521.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+521.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art._
+
+Materials: Guipure frame netting of 6 holes wide; Mecklenburg thread No.
+8 or 10; needle No. 7.
+
+For the netted foundation, which is six holes wide, begin at one corner
+with 2 stitches, work 5 rows, at the end of each of which increase 1
+stitch, continue to work the strip with the same number of stitches,
+alternately decreasing 1 at the end of one row and increasing 1 at the
+end of the next. For decreasing net 2 stitches together, for increasing
+net 2 stitches in the same hole. When the strip is sufficiently long,
+complete it by decreasing in the same proportion as the increasing at
+the beginning. As the pattern is so clearly shown in the illustration,
+it will be very easy to work from it. It is worked in point de feston
+and star wheels; the border is in point d'esprit. The insertion is
+finished on either side with a row of button-hole stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+522.--_Lace Border in Guipure D'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 10.
+
+This border may be used for various purposes; it makes a pretty edging
+for toilet cushions if worked in fine thread, and looks equally well for
+trimming couvrettes, &c., in No. 2 thread. The netting is nine holes
+wide, the stitches employed are point d'esprit and point de feston, the
+edge is in button-hole stitch, the netted ground is cut away outside the
+scallops.
+
+[Illustration: 522.--Lace Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+523.--_Square for D'Oyley_
+
+Materials: Frame; 1 square of netting; Mecklenburg reel thread Nos. 8
+and 10; needle No. 6.
+
+[Illustration: 523.--Pattern of Square for D'Oyley.]
+
+This square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a d'oyley, or
+pincushion. The three other corners of the square are worked exactly
+like the one seen in illustration; the rosette in the centre is shown in
+full size. The square is worked in point d'esprit, linen stitch, and
+point de reprise. Each of the leaves of the foliage is worked in one
+hole of the netting; they are worked by throwing the cotton three times
+across the hole, and working darning stitch on them. The stem is worked
+in overcast on the thread of the netting. The daisy in the centre is
+worked like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of the
+netting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 524.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+524 _and_ 525.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 for
+couvrettes, No. 8 for pillow-cases, No. 16 for lace edgings.
+
+These corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small couvrettes;
+the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch, darning stitch,
+point de Bruxelles, and wheels. The edge is formed by button-hole
+stitches. The netting is cut away after these are worked.
+
+[Illustration: 525.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+526.--_Strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.
+
+This strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in zigzag
+lines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit and point de
+toile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the triangle left by the
+zigzag line. This pattern is so easy to work that it hardly needs
+description, the only part requiring care being the squares of point de
+feston; these are begun in the centre, and the thread should be drawn
+rather tightly so as to form a good square.
+
+[Illustration: 526.--Pattern for a strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+527.--_Small Square_.
+
+Materials: Frame; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and No. 16 for the pattern.
+
+[Illustration: 527.--Small Square.]
+
+Work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of each
+square, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in breadth. It
+is embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit, and wheels. The
+outer edge is worked round in button-hole stitch. Larger squares are
+worked in the same manner, only a few rows larger in length and breadth.
+The squares are fastened together with a few stitches, and sewn on the
+pincushion or any article they are intended to ornament.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+528.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8, or
+16 for very fine work.
+
+This strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all kinds of
+lingeries. The size of the material depends, of course, on the use to
+be made of the insertion. The guipure pattern is worked in linen stitch
+and point d'esprit, the raised leaves in darning stitch. The edges are
+worked round with button-hole stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 528.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+529.--_Rosette in Guipure d'Art._
+
+[Illustration: 529.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 6.
+
+This rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. A larger
+wheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of overcast.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+530.--_Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: One guipure frame; Mecklenburg thread Nos. 6 and 12; needle
+No. 7.
+
+[Illustration: 530.--Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+This pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in guipure
+d'art. The outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a border in
+linen stitch. There are large stars in the corners; these stars are
+worked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the netting at the
+points of each brand; in the centre of the star there is a wheel (see
+No. 515) edged with button-hole stitch. The pattern for the centre, one
+quarter of which only is seen in the illustration, consists of 4
+branches forming small triangles in point de Bruxelles, 4 open-worked
+stars or wheels worked over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branched
+centre of point de feston with a wheel in the middle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+531 _and_ 532.--_Square Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s linen thread No. 2 for the
+netting, and their Mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches No. 8.
+
+[Illustration: 531.--Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+No. 531. The outer border of this pretty square is worked in point
+d'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a round of
+small wheels or rosettes.
+
+For these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first square
+stitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three other knots,
+so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the centre point of the
+cross, passing alternately under and over its branches, then twist the
+cotton over the threads of the foundation until the next square is
+reached, and begin another wheel.
+
+[Illustration: 532.--Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+The centre of No. 531 is composed of wheels and point de reprise; the
+pattern round the centre is worked in point de feston, differing a
+little from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the illustration
+clearly shows the difference.
+
+No. 532 has similar borders to No. 531; the centre is occupied by a star
+(see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels surround this; the
+square stitches between are filled with small wheels and with groups of
+long loops, fastened together in sheaves. Point d'esprit and point de
+toile, worked one way only, complete this square.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+533 _to_ 536.--_Four Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 or 16,
+according to the size of the work.
+
+These four patterns will be found useful for filling up small squares,
+or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit.
+
+[Illustration: 533.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+No. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half fill
+each square of the netting. This pattern must be worked with great
+regularity.
+
+[Illustration: 534.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+No. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit.
+
+No. 535 is a thread twisted and taken _across_ each square, and
+resembles lace stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 535.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+No. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with point
+d'esprit. This grounding is very effective.
+
+[Illustration: 536.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+537.--_Lace Border for Veils, &c_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 16;
+strip of square netting of the required length; oblong frame.
+
+This simple border is easily and quickly worked. The edge is overcast,
+the ground worked in point d'esprit, the border in point de toile, and
+the pattern in point de reprise. When completed the netting is cut away
+from the overcast edge.
+
+[Illustration: 537.--Lace Border for Veils, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+538 _and_ 538_a_.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10 or 16, according to the fineness
+required.
+
+[Illustration: 538.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+These squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or handkerchiefs.
+They are worked on netting with very fine cotton in the usual manner,
+beginning on two stitches in one corner The different stitches of the
+guipure darning can be distinctly seen in illustration, and are point de
+feston, point de reprise, point de toile, and point d'esprit on No. 538,
+and the same stitches surround a wheel in No. 538_a_.
+
+[Illustration: 538_a_.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 539.--Guipure d'Art Insertion.]
+
+539.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 8 to
+16; strip of netting length, required.
+
+
+This insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in point
+de feston. The ground in point d'esprit.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+540 _and_ 541.--_Square in Guipure Point de Venise (Reticella)_
+
+Materials: Coarse or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 4 or 12.
+
+[Illustration: 540.--Square in Point de Venise.]
+
+[Illustration: 541.--Quarter Square in Reticella Work (Enlarged).]
+
+This square is worked in the so-called point de Venise, together with
+other squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions, &c. It is
+worked on coarse or fine linen, according to the use you wish to make
+of it. Prepare a square piece of linen, by drawing out long and cross
+threads, so as to form perfect squares. In the pattern No. 540, which is
+worked on fine linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long and
+cross way; 8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threads
+have been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form the
+framework. Then fasten the piece of linen on cardboard, and work close
+button-hole stitch round the inner edge Then work with darning stitch
+over the long and cross threads of the ground.
+
+From No. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times larger
+than full size, it is easy to see how the framework is darned. When the
+latter is entirely darned, work the patterns in the different squares in
+button-hole stitch. The circular and serpentine patterns consist of 3
+rows of button-hole stitch; the patterns which imitate whole rosettes
+and half rosettes are worked in rows of button-hole stitch. For each row
+the thread must be first drawn from one place to the other, as can be
+seen in illustration, and fastened on the framework. The knots in the
+last button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch when
+completed, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through the
+first completed knot. It is easy, however, to work all the patterns from
+No. 541. The dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the direction of
+the patterns which are wanting there. The square is edged all round with
+an open-work hem, which can also be worked from No. 541.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+542 _and_ 543.--_Corner Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.
+
+These patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs, &c. The
+netted ground is to be worked from the corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and
+work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of
+every row. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, linen, and darning
+stitch, as can be seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 542 and 543--Corner Borders.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+544.--_Flower for Ornamenting Cravats and Caps in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Black or coloured silks, or Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 10.
+
+[Illustration: 544.--Flower in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+This pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse silk in
+guipure d'art on netting. This pattern can also be worked with white
+thread or black silk in point de reprise.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+545.--_Work Basket with Covering of Darned Netting_.
+
+Materials: Bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting; Messrs.
+Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 16.
+
+[Illustration: 545.--Work Basket Covered with Guipure d'Art.]
+
+This elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin, fastened on
+cardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. The stand of varnished bamboo
+is twelve inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and five and a half
+inches high. The case inside is made of cardboard, covered on both sides
+with blue satin, and the guipure d'art on the outside only. The stitches
+used are point de toile, point de reprise, and point d'esprit.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+546 _and_ 547.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12 or
+20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness required.
+
+[Illustration: 546.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+Both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting lingerie,
+cravats, collars, &c. Repeated at regular intervals on a larger centre,
+they are likewise suitable for couvrettes, cushions, pillow-cases, &c.;
+they are worked in darning and linen stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 547.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+548.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required length;
+Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 12.
+
+This simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked at each
+side of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of button-hole stitches being
+worked between the rows.
+
+[Illustration: 549.--Guipure d'Art Insertion.]
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+550 _and_ 551.--_Squares for Antimacassar_.
+
+Materials: Square of netting of 12 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's
+Mecklenburg thread No. 8.
+
+[Illustration: 550.--Square for Antimacassar.]
+
+No. 550 is very quickly worked. The border and groundwork in point
+d'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in point de
+toile. Wheels fill in the four holes in the centre of the squares.
+
+No. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in point de
+feston, the other stitches are point de toile. Wheels in part of star
+pattern No. 518.
+
+[Illustration: 551.--Square for Antimacassar.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+552 _and_ 553.--_Borders in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 16.
+
+These corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and, worked with
+fine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. The netted ground of the borders
+is to be worked in the size seen in illustration; for the border No. 553
+darn the ground in button-hole stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit,
+and point de feston; the pattern No. 552 is worked in linen stitch and
+point d'esprit; small wheels are also to be worked. Both borders are to
+be worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut away
+along the outside.
+
+[Illustration: 552.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+[Illustration: 553.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+554 _and_ 555.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20;
+netted squares of 7 and 8 holes.
+
+[Illustration: 554.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+These two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats, lappets
+for caps and lingeries. They are worked in darning and linen stitch. The
+centre part of the square, No. 554, is a small wheel covered with raised
+stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 555.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+556.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.
+
+The centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well as the
+border; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in the
+centre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked.
+
+[Illustration: 556.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+557.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Strip of netting of 4 holes in width; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.
+
+The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit, square
+wheels are worked in the centre of the strip.
+
+[Illustration: 557.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+558 _to_ 563.--_Different Strips of Insertion, Rosettes and Lace, in
+Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread Nos. 16 and 20.
+
+These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very suitable for
+ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. The ground of insertion, Nos. 558
+and 560, is worked with fine white cotton over a fine steel
+knitting-needle, in slanting netting, and darned with thread in the
+manner seen in illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 rounds
+wide, and worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned
+patterns can be worked from illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 558.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+[Illustration: 559.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 560.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine
+knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st round
+work 2 stitches in every stitch. In the 2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitches
+in every increased stitch of the preceding round, and in every other
+stitch 1 stitch. In the 6th round take a steel knitting-needle double
+the size of the first, and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the
+preceding round. Then work the 7th round over the fine needle as
+follows:--
+
+[Illustration: 561.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first, and work
+1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the first, and then
+1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round work always 2
+stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed stitches, 1 stitch in all
+the other stitches. Lastly, darn the rosette, from illustration, with
+fine glazed cotton.
+
+For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563, cast on
+6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then in the 1st
+round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8 rounds 2 stitches
+in every increased stitch, in all the other stitches 1 stitch. The last
+(10th) round is worked without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, from
+illustrations, with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point
+d'esprit. The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole
+stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These two
+rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes.
+
+[Illustration: 562.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+[Illustration: 563.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of straight
+netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side, and worked
+round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration. This ground is
+darned, from No. 561, in darning stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch,
+and ornamented with bars and wheels (See illustration).
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 564.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+564 _and_ 565.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20 for
+handkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes.
+
+These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes, &c., or
+as strips of insertion for cushions or pillow-cases. They are worked with
+more or less fine cotton, according to the use they are meant for.
+They are edged round with button-hole stitch on the outside, and
+finished off with a row of crochet purl. Work 1 double in every
+button-hole stitch; after every other stitch draw out the loop on the
+needle about one-tenth of an inch; take out the needle and leave the
+loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last double stitch, and cast it off
+with the next double stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 565.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+566.--_Jewel Case, forming Pincushion_.
+
+Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin and silk
+cord; guipure netting.
+
+This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with satin,
+and slightly quilted; it is also covered on the top with satin, and
+ornamented all round with a satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide,
+pleated in the manner seen in illustration. The top of the box is
+stuffed so as to form a pincushion. It is then covered with guipure
+d'art No. 567. Ornament all round with silk cords, and at the corners
+with bows of satin ribbon.
+
+[Illustration: 566.--Jewel Case, with Pincushion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+567.--_Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case_.
+
+Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 14.
+
+This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point
+de reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced occasionally.
+
+[Illustration: 567.--Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case (No. 566).]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+568.--_Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (Seepage 580.)_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20, and
+cotton No. 80.
+
+For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our illustration
+two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight strip of netting for
+the foundation, which must count as many holes in width as are required
+for the width of the covering. The size of the holes depends on the size
+of the knitting-needle or mesh which you use. The pattern is worked with
+cotton No. 80, over a steel knitting-needle which measures two-fifths of
+an inch round. Begin the strip in one corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and
+work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of
+every row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holes
+in width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same number
+of stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the end of 1 row,
+and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip is 250 stitches
+long. The strip is finished off in a straight line at the bottom by
+working a certain number of rows in which the last stitch remains
+untouched. At the beginning of the row do not work 1 stitch ever the
+mesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the preceding row, so that the
+cotton is drawn on tight. When the strip is completed, trace from No.
+568 the outlines for the pattern of each of the eight parts of the
+parasol with double thread, in such a manner that two parts lie next to
+each other, but reversed, that is, the point of one part must lie next
+to the wide part of the next part. Then work in each part the pattern
+seen in illustration, and afterwards each part round with button-hole
+stitch, working over the double outline. Cut out the different parts,
+and sew them together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 569.--Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+569.--_Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 18;
+green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk cord.
+
+The size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. The netting must
+be fastened in a frame, and darned with fine thread; the flowers are
+worked in darning stitch, and the ground in point d'esprit. The cushion
+is made of green satin, perfumed with poudre d'iris. When the netting
+has been fastened on, it is edged all round with a green satin ruche,
+and green silk cord, forming loops at every corner.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 570.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+570.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Netted square of 26 stitches; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 12.
+
+This pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline of
+point de reprise. This outline may be worked in close button-hole
+stitch. Point de toile is used for the groundwork, upon which point de
+reprise is worked.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+571 _and_ 572.--_Work Case in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Blue satin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread
+No. 16; blue silk cord.
+
+[Illustration: 571.--Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Back).]
+
+This little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five inches
+and four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with a loop and
+button. The back, front, side, and the flap are worked all in one piece.
+The netting is worked with white thread No. 12, over a mesh measuring at
+least two-fifths of an inch round. For the flap the netting must be
+slanted off on both sides; this is done either by decreasings, or by
+cutting off the corners of the work. The latter is then darned in linen
+stitch, darning stitch, and point d'esprit, from No. 572, which shows
+the front of the case, and from No. 571, which shows the back. The
+netting is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sides
+with button-hole stitches on the right side. The flap is edged with
+button-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop to
+correspond. The case is edged all round with blue silk cord.
+
+[Illustration: 572.--Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Front).]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+573.--_Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread
+No. 12; carved oak stand; glacé silk; cords; tassels.
+
+Banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from the
+mantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration No. 573. The banner is
+23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glacé silk, and
+edged with a lace border of guipure d'art. The design for the banner is
+given in page 554. Work the netting for the groundwork over a larger or
+smaller mesh, according to the size you wish it to be. The pattern is
+worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, and point de toile. When the
+ pattern is completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with a
+gathered border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords and
+tassels. The banner may be finished off in close button-hole stitch,
+instead of adding the lace border.
+
+[Illustration: 573.--Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 575.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+575.--_Border in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.
+
+This border is suited for couvrettes. It is worked in point d'esprit,
+point de reprise, or plain darning stitch, edged by a row of
+button-hole, and finished with a crochet edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 576.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+576.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12;
+netted square of 20 holes.
+
+This pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de feston,
+point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the centre as that
+shown on page 514, omitting the alternate points; border of point
+d'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars.
+
+Table of the right size of Mecklenburg thread to use in working:--
+
+|----------------------------------|--------------|
+|                                  |    No.       |
+|----------------------------------|--------------|
+|  Antimacassars                   |    2         |
+|  Borders                         |    4         |
+|  Handkerchiefs                   |    20        |
+|  Insertions                      |    8         |
+|  Lace edgings and insertions     |    16        |
+|  Lamp shades                     |    16        |
+|  Parasol covers                  |    18        |
+|  Sachets                         |    12        |
+|  Sofa cushions                   |    8         |
+|  Toilet cushions                 |    10        |
+|  Toilet mats                     |    10        |
+|----------------------------------|--------------|
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FRAMES
+
+May be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares.
+
+Oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace edgings.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+BERLIN WORK
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon canvas with
+wool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are common cross
+stitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or velvet stitch, tent
+stitch, and others. The materials and needle must always be carefully
+chosen of a corresponding size. For common cross stitch and raised
+stitch Penelope canvas must be used; for small articles, such as
+slippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin wool is preferable; for larger
+ones fleecy wool or double Berlin wool (the latter, however, is much
+more expensive). For Gobelin stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas
+(not Penelope) is required. Purse silk is often used for the latter; it
+is more brilliant than floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generally
+used for other stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas
+better than purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle,
+which is a much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Before
+beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be hemmed or
+sewn over with wool. Care must be taken not to crumple the canvas in
+the course of the work. It is best to roll one end of the canvas upon a
+round piece of deal while the other end is kept down upon the table with
+a lead cushion. Handsome artistic patterns should always be worked in a
+frame. When you undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre,
+and complete one half before you commence the other. Always work the
+stitches in the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very
+essential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern.
+
+Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those colours
+that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When the pattern is
+finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be drawn too tightly,
+otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If the wool is too coarse
+for the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as far
+as the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch,
+cross back in the usual way.
+
+The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross stitch;
+illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same.
+
+We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writing
+and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used in
+Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great in number nor too
+simple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to become
+Berlin workers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 577.--Common Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 577.--The common cross stitch is worked in rows backwards
+and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of the
+canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the
+2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. Illustration
+577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 578.--Long Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like the
+preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 579.--Long Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like the
+preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, and
+in the next row the stitches are worked between those in the preceding
+row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; each
+stitch is completed before beginning the next.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 580.--Slanting Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 580.--The long slanting cross stitch is worked like No.
+578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd is
+straight. The places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out are
+marked on the illustration with a cross and dot.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 581.--Damask Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 581.--The damask stitch is worked in single rows from left
+to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The stitches of one
+row come between those of the next. The cross and dot shown in
+illustration are where to insert and draw out the needle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 582.--Rep Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the preceding. The
+first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 in
+width, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to left
+over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completed
+at once. The illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the first
+half of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must be
+inserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed
+on illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 583.--Leviathan Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 583.--The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1
+straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Each
+stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half of the stitch
+completed and the wool as it must be placed for working the first half
+of the straight cross stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 584.--Leviathan Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 584.--The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like the
+preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in the
+different rows, as may be seen from illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 585.--Double Leviathan Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 585.--The double leviathan stitch is a variety of the
+preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width.
+Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long cross
+stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. Illustration 585
+shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 586.--Tent Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 586.--Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1 stitch in
+height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 587.--Slanting Gobelin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 587.--The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on undivided
+canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width,
+divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 588.--Straight Gobelin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 588.--The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threads
+in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear more
+raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ILLUSTRATION 589.--The raised or velvet stitch is worked over small
+round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2 similar meshes
+and as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; make
+first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common cross
+stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the place
+where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as to
+form a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin to
+work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in a
+slanting direction underneath. On the wrong side of the work a regular
+cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitch
+completed and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on the
+mesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the wool
+upon the mesh. Observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are worked
+upwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must not
+be drawn out before the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open
+if preferred.
+
+[Illustration: 589.--Raised or Velvet Stitch.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 590.--Plaited Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 590.--The plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bone
+stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width.
+Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and the
+place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is marked
+by a dot. For the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threads
+below the stitches of the preceding row.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ILLUSTRATION 591.--The plush stitch is also worked upwards. Begin to
+work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvas
+over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slanting
+direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging down
+about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitch
+to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be worked over flat meshes.
+Work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. When the work is
+completed the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen from
+illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 591.--Plush Stitch.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.--Three Berlin wool work borders for trimming
+baskets, &c. No. 592.--The 2 outer rows which edge the border are worked
+in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre with
+a back stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 592.--Berlin Work Border.]
+
+The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite each other,
+which are formed of long straight stitches of different lengths. The
+squares in the centre are formed in the same way, and are completed in
+the middle with a knot. No. 593.--The ground is worked in cross stitch,
+the raised patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there
+is a cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2
+threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No. 594.--The
+petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height and in width,
+and consisting of 4 slanting stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 593--Berlin Work Border.]
+
+[Illustration: 594.--Berlin Work Border.]
+
+In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in cross
+stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of scallops,
+formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1 slanting stitch.
+It is easy to work these stitches from illustration. The choice of
+colours depends upon what use the border is intended for and upon
+personal taste.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+  PLATES
+
+  [Illustration: TATTED ANTIMACASSAR (see page 80).]
+
+  [Illustration: 214--COUVRETTE IN APPLIQUÉ]
+
+  [Illustration: 334--KNITTED TABLE COVER (_see page_ 347).]
+
+  [Illustration: 337--KNITTED D'OYLEY (_see page_ 352).]
+
+  [Illustration: 568.--PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART
+                                      (_see page 549_).]
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX.
+
+  ACACIA SPRAY in embroidery, 162.
+
+  Antimacassar, crochet, 276.
+
+  Antimacassar in tatting, 65.
+
+  Antimacassar, knitted, 318 to 320.
+
+  Appliqué, pattern for a couvrette in, 213 to 215.
+
+  Arm-chair, covered with crochet, 254.
+
+  Arm-chair in crochet, patterns for, 255,256.
+
+
+  BABY'S BOOT, knitted, 326.
+
+  Bag, crochet silk, over rings, 245.
+
+  Banner screen in guipure d'art, 573, 574.
+
+  BARS, POINT LACE.
+
+    D'Alençon, 463.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 467.
+
+    Point de Venise, edged, 468.
+
+    Point de Venise, dotted, 469.
+
+    Raleigh, 471, 472.
+
+    Sorrento, 461, 462.
+
+    Sorrento, dotted, 469.
+
+    Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466.
+
+  Basket, small, crochet, 239.
+
+  Basket, crochet, 272.
+
+  Basket, crochet, 273.
+
+  Basket, embroidered in chenille, 134.
+
+  Bedford plaited lace (1851), 423.
+
+  Bed-quilt, knitted border for, 327.
+
+  BERLIN WOOL-WORK INSTRUCTIONS, p. 559.
+  Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594.
+
+  BERLIN STITCHES.
+
+    Common cross stitch, 577.
+
+    Damask stitch, 581.
+
+    Leviathan stitch, 583, 584.
+
+    Leviathan double stitch, 585.
+
+    Long cross stitch, 578, 579.
+
+    Plaited stitch, 590.
+
+    Plush stitch, 591.
+
+    Raised or velvet stitch, 589.
+
+    Rep stitch, 582.
+
+    Slanting cross stitch, 580.
+
+    Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587.
+
+    Straight Gobelin stitch, 588.
+
+    Tent stitch, 586.
+
+  (Black lace) Buckingham point trolly (1851), 422.
+
+  Bodice, knitted, 324, 325.
+
+  Boot, baby's, knitted, 326
+
+  Borders, crochet, 252, 253
+
+  Border, embroidered, 150.
+
+  Border for a reading-desk in embroidery, 204.
+
+  Border for couvrettes, guipure d'art, 561.
+
+  Borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art, 564, 565.
+
+  Borders, guipure d'art, 552, 553, 557.
+
+  Border, guipure d'art, 575.
+
+  Border in crochet and tatting, 52.
+
+  Border in Oriental embroidery, 179.
+
+  Border in tatting and crochet, 6.
+
+  Border in tatting and crochet, 15.
+
+  Border in tatting and crochet, 22.
+
+  Border in tatting and lace stitch, 44.
+
+  Border in tatting, with beads, 13.
+
+  Border in tatting, with crochet edging, 5.
+
+  Border, knitted, 321.
+
+  Border, tatting, 47.
+
+  Borders, two crochet, 274, 275.
+
+  Border, with beads, tatted, 13.
+
+  Bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag, 169.
+
+  Braces, embroidered, 202.
+
+  Braces, knitted, 338.
+
+  Brioche cushion in crochet, 249.
+
+  Butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner, 212.
+
+
+  CAP, border for, in tatting, 38.
+
+  Cap crown in tatting, 37.
+
+  Cap in tatting, 38, 39.
+
+  Chenille, basket embroidered in, 134.
+
+  Cigar-case, embroidered, 190.
+
+  Circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in tatting, 21.
+
+  Circle in tatting, 12.
+
+  Circle in tatting, 21.
+
+  Circle in tatting, 57.
+
+  Collar in tatting, 56.
+
+  Collar in tatting and darned netting, 28.
+
+  Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 49.
+
+  Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 54.
+
+  Collar, pine pattern, in tatting, 1.
+
+  Collar, tatted, 55.
+
+  Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 49.
+
+  Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 54.
+
+  Comforters, &c., knitting stitch for, 336.
+
+  Convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery, 141.
+
+  Corner borders in guipure d'art, 524, 525.
+
+  Corner borders in guipure d'art, 542, 543.
+
+  Corner borders in guipure d'art, 564, 565.
+
+  Corner for handkerchief in point Russe embroidery, 149.
+
+  Corner in embroidery, 151.
+
+  Corner in embroidery, 152.
+
+  Cotton, tatting, page 82.
+
+  Couvrette, centre of a tatted, 25.
+
+  Couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet, 250.
+
+  Couvrette for arm-chair in crochet, 257.
+
+  Couvrette in appliqué, embroidery, 147.
+
+  Couvrette in crochet, 240 to 243.
+
+  Couvrette in tatting, 25.
+
+  Covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery, 138.
+
+  Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 184.
+
+  Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 185.
+
+  Cravat in tatting, 50.
+
+  Cravat end in embroidery, 136.
+
+  Cravat end in embroidery, 153.
+
+  Cravat end in raised embroidery, 156.
+
+  Cravat end in tatting, 60.
+
+  Cravat end in tatting, 62.
+
+  Cravat end in tatting and darned netting, 64.
+
+  Cravat end, oval, in tatting, 51.
+
+  Cravat in muslin and tatting, 50.
+
+  Cravat, muslin, embroidered, 153.
+
+  Crochet, antimacassar in, 276.
+
+  Crochet, arm-chair covered with, 254.
+
+  Crochet, arm-chair, patterns for, 255, 256.
+
+  Crochet bag, silk, over rings, 245.
+
+  Crochet basket, small, 239.
+
+  Crochet basket, 272.
+
+  Crochet basket, 273.
+
+  Crochet borders, 252, 253.
+
+  Crochet borders, two, 274, 275.
+
+  Crochet, brioche cushion, 249.
+
+  Crochet, couvrette for arm-chair, 257.
+
+  Crochet, couvrette in, 240 to 243.
+
+  Crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in, 250.
+
+  Crochet D'Oyleys in Imitation of Point Lace.
+
+    No. 1, 262.
+
+    No. 2, 263.
+
+    No. 3, 264.
+
+    No. 4, 265.
+
+    No. 5, 266.
+
+    No. 6, 267.
+
+    No. 7, 268.
+
+    No. 8, 269.
+
+    No. 9, 270.
+
+    No. 10, 271.
+
+  Crochet garter, 285.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 258.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 259.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 260.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 277.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 283.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 284.
+
+  CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+    Crochet hook, page 185.
+
+    Foundation chain, double, 217.
+
+    Foundation chain, plain, 216.
+
+    Foundation chain, purl, 218.
+
+    Spots, raised, 232.
+
+    Spots, hollow, 233.
+
+    Spots, open work, 234.
+
+  Crochet, lace, 251.
+
+  Crochet, lace, 261.
+
+  Crochet, purse in, over rings, 248.
+
+  Crochet rosettes, 280, 281.
+
+  Crochet sovereign purse, 246.
+
+  Crochet, star in, 244.
+
+  Crochet, stars in, 247.
+
+  CROCHET STITCHES.
+
+    Cross stitch, 224.
+
+    Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231.
+
+    Double long treble stitch, 228.
+
+    Double stitch, 220, 221.
+
+    Long double stitch, 225.
+
+    Long treble stitch, 227.
+
+    Purl stitch, 236.
+
+    Purl stitch, 237.
+
+    Purl stitch, 238.
+
+    Raised treble stitch, 235.
+
+    Raised ribbed stitch, 222.
+
+    Raised slanting stitch, 223.
+
+    Slip stitch, 219.
+
+    Treble stitch, 226.
+
+  Crochet trimming for a lady's chemise, 286.
+
+  Crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in
+    appliqué and velvet ribbon, 282.
+
+  Crochet work, tobacco-pouch in, 278, 279.
+
+  Crochet work, work-basket in straw and, 272, 273.
+
+  Curtains, knitted pattern for, 339.
+
+
+  Daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette, 250.
+
+  Dalecarlian lace, 419.
+
+  Diamond in tatting, 20.
+
+  Diamond in tatting, 36.
+
+  Diamond in tatting, 53.
+
+  Diamond in tatting, 59.
+
+  Diamond netting, 306.
+
+  Diamond tatting for collars, &c., 20.
+
+  D'Oyleys, Crochet, in Imitation of Point Lace.
+
+    No. 1, 262.
+
+    No. 2, 263.
+
+    No. 3, 264.
+
+    No. 4, 265.
+
+    No. 5, 266.
+
+    No. 6, 267.
+
+    No. 7, 268.
+
+    No. 8, 269.
+
+    No. 9, 270.
+
+    No. 10, 271.
+
+  D'Oyley, knitted, 337.
+
+
+  EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS, POINT LACE.
+
+    Antwerp, 479.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 477.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 474,
+
+    Point d'Espagne, 478.
+
+    Point de Venise, 476.
+
+    Sorrento, 475.
+
+  Edging, embroidered, 178.
+
+  Embroidered border, 204.
+
+  Embroidered border, 150.
+
+  Embroidered bouquet for travelling bag, 169.
+
+  Embroidered braces, 202.
+
+  Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 201.
+
+  Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 203.
+
+  Embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner, 212.
+
+  Embroidered cigar-case, 190.
+
+  Embroidered edging, 178.
+
+  Embroidered handkerchief, 197.
+
+  Embroidered hanging letter-case, 176.
+
+  Embroidered in chenille, basket, 134.
+
+  Embroidered key-bag, 182.
+
+  Embroidered key-bag, 183.
+
+  Embroidered knife-basket, 159.
+
+  Embroidered knife-basket, 160.
+
+  Embroidered lace insertion, 207.
+
+  Embroidered lady's purse, 157.
+
+  Embroidered letter-case, pattern for, 177.
+
+  Embroidered linen collar, 193.
+
+  Embroidered linen collar, 194.
+
+  Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 166.
+
+  Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 167.
+
+  Embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for, 187.
+
+  Embroidered slipper, on Java canvas, 208.
+
+  Embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for, 209.
+
+  Embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196.
+
+  Embroidery, acacia spray in, 162.
+
+  Embroidery and stitching, insertion in, 132.
+
+  Embroidery, appliqué, couvrette in, 147.
+
+  Embroidery border for a reading-desk, 204.
+
+  Embroidery, border in Oriental, 179.
+
+  Embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in, 141.
+
+  Embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point Russe, 149.
+
+  Embroidery, corner in, 151.
+
+  Embroidery, corner in, 152.
+
+  Embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in, 138.
+
+  Embroidery, cravat end in, 136.
+
+  Embroidery, cravat end in, 153.
+
+  Embroidery, cravat end in raised, 156.
+
+  Embroidery, fuchsia spray in, 161.
+
+  Embroidery, glove-box in, 174.
+
+  Embroidery, glove-box in, 175.
+
+  Embroidery, handkerchief border in, 197.
+
+  Embroidery, handkerchief in, 140.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 131.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 142.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 145.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 146.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 155.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 165.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 188.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 189.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 192.
+
+  EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS, p. 83.
+
+    Bead partly covered, 103.
+
+    Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102.
+
+    Bluebell, 113.
+
+    Bluebell, inner part, 114.
+
+    Bluebell, part of, 116.
+
+    Borders, 118, 119.
+
+    Ear of corn, 112.
+
+    Flower, 115.
+
+    Flower in satin stitch, 107.
+
+    Flower appliquéd on net, 117,
+
+    Heartsease, 110.
+
+    Initials, 123 to 130.
+
+    Insertions, 120 to 122.
+
+    Leaf, 94.
+
+    Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91.
+
+    Leaf, raised, 92, 93.
+
+    Leaf, raised, 95.
+
+    Leaf, half of, 99.
+
+    Leaf, centre of, 100.
+
+    Raised embroidered leaf, 98.
+
+    Raised flower, 111.
+
+    Raised leaf, 96.
+
+    Raised leaf, 97.
+
+    Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91.
+
+    Rose in satin stitch, 108.
+
+    Rose, petal for, 109.
+
+    Star, 106.
+
+    Star in point de reprise, 105.
+
+    Star in satin stitch, 104.
+
+  STITCH, EMBROIDERY.
+
+    Stitch, back, 70.
+
+    Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 86, 87.
+
+    Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85.
+
+    Stitch, double overcast, 67.
+
+    Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75.
+
+    Stitch, ladder, 80, 81.
+
+    Stitch, overcast, 68.
+
+    Stitch, point croisé, 71, 72.
+
+    Stitch, point de minute, 79.
+
+    Stitch, point de plume, 78.
+
+  STITCH, EMBROIDERY--_continued_.
+
+    Stitch, satin, raised, 76, 77.
+
+    Stitch, scallop, 66.
+
+    Stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89.
+
+    Stitch, slanting overcast, 89.
+
+  Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 198.
+
+  Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 199.
+
+  Embroidery, medallion in point Russe, 210.
+
+  Embroidery, medallion in point Russc, 211.
+
+  EMBROIDERY, MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in coral stitch, 353.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in floral, 361.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in florid style, 356.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in forget-me-nots, 352.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet, point d'or, 357.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet, raised satin stitch, 359.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in satin stitch, 351.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet scalloped, 355.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet, small, 354.
+
+    Embroidery, initials in, 366 to 417.
+
+    Embroidery, monograms in, 366 to 417.
+
+    Embroidery, names in, 362 to 418.
+
+    Embroidery, sampler in, 360.
+
+    Embroidery, star alphabet, capitals, 349.
+
+    Embroidery, star alphabet, small, 350.
+
+    Embroidery, white, alphabet in, 358.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 135.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 137.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 184.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 185.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 133.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 139.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for trimming lingeries in, 143, 144.
+
+  Embroidery pattern for what-not (full size), 196.
+
+  Embroidery, penwiper in, 186, 187.
+
+  Embroidery, rose-leaf in, 173.
+
+  Embroidery, sandwich-case in, 154.
+
+  Embroidery stars, 137, 143, 144.
+
+  Embroidery stars, 180, 181.
+
+  Embroidery, table-napkin ring in, 158.
+
+  Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 163.
+
+  Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 164.
+
+  Embroidery, travelling-bag in, 168.
+
+  Embroidery, trimming in, for bodices, 170.
+
+  Embroidery, Venetian border in, 206.
+
+  Embroidery, Venetian, lappet or sash end in, 205.
+
+  Embroidery, waste-paper basket in, 191.
+
+  Embroidery, white, toilet-cushion cover in, 171, 172, 173.
+
+  Embroidery, wing of bird, 172.
+
+  Embroidery, work-bag in, 200.
+
+  Embroidery, wreath in, for centre of pincushion or toilet-mat, 148.
+
+  English netting, 308
+
+
+  Fichu, netted, 315, 316.
+
+  Flower in guipure d'art, 544.
+
+  Frame for guipure d'art 503.
+
+  Full-sized circle for embroidered pen-wiper, 187.
+
+  Fuchsia spray in embroidery, 161.
+
+
+  Garter, crochet, 285.
+
+  Glove-box in embroidery, 174.
+
+  Glove-box in embroidery, 175.
+
+  Gauge, knitting, 287.
+
+  Guipure d'art.
+
+  Guipure d'art, banner-screen in, 573, 574.
+
+  Guipure d'art, border for couvrettes in, 561.
+
+  Guipure d'art t, borders for handkerchief, corner, 564, 565.
+
+  Guipure d'art, borders in, 552, 553, 557.
+
+  Guipure d'art, border in, 575.
+
+  Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 524, 525.
+
+  Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 542, 543.
+
+  Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 564, 565.
+
+  Guipure d'art, flower in, 544.
+
+  Guipure d'art, frame for, 503.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 521.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 526.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 528.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 539.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 548.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 558.
+
+  Gaipure d'art, insertion in, 559.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertions, &c., in, 558 to 563.
+
+  Guipure d'art, instructions in, p. 503.
+
+  Guipure d'art jewel-case cover, 567.
+
+  Guipure d'art, jewel-case covered in, 566.
+
+  Guipure d'art, lace borders for veils in, 537.
+
+  Guipure d'art, lace border in, 522.
+
+  Guipure d'art, parasol-cover in, 568.
+
+  Guipure d'art, quarter square in, 530.
+
+  Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 529.
+
+  Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 562, 563.
+
+  Guipure d'art stitches.
+
+    Grounding, 533 to 536.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510.
+
+    Point d'esprit, 504.
+
+    Point de feston, 506.
+
+    Point de reprise, 507, 508.
+
+    Point de toile, 505.
+
+    Stars, 516 to 520.
+
+    Wheels, 511 to 515.
+
+  Guipure d'art, scent-sachet in, 569.
+
+  Guipure d'art, small squares, 527.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares for antimacassar, 550, 551.
+
+  Guipure d'art, square for d'oyley in, 523.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, for dresses, 546, 547.
+
+  Guipure d'art, square in, 531.
+
+  Guipure d'art, square in, 532.
+
+  Guipure d'art, square in, 556.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, 570, 576.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, 533 to 536.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, 538, 538a.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, 554, 555.
+
+  (Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, 540.
+
+  (Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, enlarged, 541.
+
+  Guipure d'art,   work-basket   covered with, 545.
+
+  Guipure d'art, work-case in, 571, 572.
+
+
+  Handkerchief border in embroidery, 197.
+
+  Handkerchief in embroidery, 140.
+
+  Hanging letter-case embroidered, 176.
+
+  Honiton guipure lace, 424.
+
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 258.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 259.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 260.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 277.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 283.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 284.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 131.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 142.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 145.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 146.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 155.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 165.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 188.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 189.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 192.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery and stitching, 132.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d art, 521.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 526.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 528.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 539.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 548.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 558.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 559.
+
+  Insertions in guipure d'art, 558 to 563.
+
+  Insertions in tatting, 2.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 7.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 11.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 14.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 24.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 31.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 32.
+
+  Insertion in tatting and crochet, 41.
+
+  Insertion in tatting and crochet, 43.
+
+  Insertion in tatting and lace stitch, 23.
+
+  Insertion in tatting for trimming lingeries, 11.
+
+  Insertion, knitted, 340.
+
+  Insertion, wide, tatting, 10.
+
+  Insertion, wide, tatting, 14.
+
+  Insertion, wide, tatting, 43.
+
+  Insertion, worked in tatting, 10.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN BERLIN WOOL WORK, p. 559.
+
+    Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594.
+
+    Berlin stitches.
+
+    Common cross stitch, 577.
+
+    Damask stitch, 581.
+
+    Leviathan stitch, 583, 584.
+
+    Leviathan double stitch, 585.
+
+    Long cross stitch, 578, 579.
+
+    Plaited stitch, 590.
+
+    Plush stitch, 591.
+
+    Raised or velvet stitch, 589.
+
+    Rep stitch, 582.
+
+    Slanting cross stitch, 580.
+
+    Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587.
+
+    Straight Gobelin stitch, 588.
+
+    Tent stitch, 586.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN CROCHET.
+
+    Crochet hook, p. 185.
+
+    Foundation chain, double, 217.
+
+    Foundation chain, plain, 216.
+
+    Foundation chain, purl, 218.
+
+    Spots, raised, 232.
+
+    Spots, hollow, 233.
+
+    Spots, open work, 234.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY.
+
+    Bead partly covered, 103.
+
+    Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102.
+
+    Bluebell, 113.
+
+    Bluebell, inner part, 114.
+
+    Bluebell, part of, 116.
+
+    Borders, 118, 119.
+
+    Ear of corn, 112.
+
+    Flower, 115.
+
+    Flower in satin stitch, 107.
+
+    Flower appliquéd on net, 117.
+
+    Heartsease, 110.
+
+    Initials, 123 to 130.
+
+    Insertions, 120 to 122.
+
+    Leaf, 94.
+
+    Leaf, half of, 99.
+
+    Leaf, centre of, 100.
+
+    Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91.
+
+    Leaf, raised, 92, 93.
+
+    Leaf, raised, 95.
+
+    Raised embroidered leaf, 98.
+
+    Raised flower, 111.
+
+    Raised leaf, 96.
+
+    Raised leaf, 97.
+
+    Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91.
+
+    Rose in satin stitch, 108.
+
+    Rose, petal for, 109.
+
+    Star, 106.
+
+    Star in point de reprise, 105.
+
+    Star in satin stitch, 104.
+
+  STITCH, EMBROIDERY.
+
+    Stitch, back, 70.
+
+    Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 85, 87.
+
+    Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85.
+
+    Stitch, double overcast, 67.
+
+    Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75.
+
+    Stitch, ladder, 80, 81.
+
+    Stitch, overcast, 68.
+
+    Stitch, point croisé, 71, 72.
+
+    Stitch, point de minute, 79.
+
+    Stitch, point de plume, 78.
+
+    Stitch, satin raised, 76, 77.
+
+    Stitch, scallop, 66.
+
+    Stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89.
+
+    Stitch, slanting overcast, 69.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN GUIPURE D'ART, p. 503.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN TATTING.
+    Joining the work, p. v.
+    Pin, tatting, p. ii.
+    Shuttles, tatting, pp. i, iii.
+    The way to hold the hands, p. iii.
+    The way to make a loop in tatting, p. iv.
+    The way to make a purl, p. v.
+    The way to make a stitch in tatting, p. iv.
+
+
+  JEWEL-CASE cover, guipure d'art, 567.
+    Jewel-case covered in guipure d'art, 566.
+
+
+  KEY-BAG, embroidered, 182.
+
+  Key-bag, embroidered, 183.
+
+  Knee-cap, knitted, 322.
+
+  Knife-basket, embroidered, 159.
+
+  Knife-basket, embroidered, 160.
+
+  Knitted antimacassar, 318 to 320.
+
+  Knitted baby's boot, 326.
+
+  Knitted bodice, 324, 325.
+
+  Knitted border, 321.
+
+  Knitted border for bed-quilt, 327.
+
+  Knitted braces, 338.
+
+  Knitted comforters, pattern for, 336.
+
+  Knitted counterpanes, pattern for, 313.
+
+  Knitted cover for sofa-cushion, 341, 342.
+
+  Knitted curtains, patterns for, 339.
+
+  Knitted d'oyley, 337.
+
+  Knitted insertion, 340.
+
+  Knitted knee-cap, 322.
+
+  Knitted neckerchief, 323.
+
+  Knitted pattern, 345.
+
+  Knitted pattern, with embroidery, 332.
+
+  Knitted purse, lady's, 317.
+
+  Knitted quilt, 328.
+
+  Knitted shawl, 346 to 348.
+
+  Knitted sleeping sock, 314.
+
+  Knitted sock for a child, 312.
+
+  Knitted table-cover, 333, 334.
+
+  Knitted veil, 330, 331.
+
+  Knitting cotton, table of sizes of, p. 368.
+
+  Knitting gauge, 287.
+
+  Knitting, looped, 335.
+
+  Knitting, materials required for, 287.
+
+  Knitting needles, 287.
+
+  KNITTING ON, 287.
+
+  Knitting, rosette for antimacassar in, 319.
+
+  KNITTING STITCHES.
+
+    Brioche stitch, 301.
+
+    Casting off, 295.
+
+    Casting on, 288.
+
+    Decreasing, 293.
+
+    Increasing, 292.
+
+    Knitting on, 289.
+
+    Knotted stitch, 299.
+
+    Looped knitting, 335.
+
+    Moss borders, 300.
+
+    Peacock's tail pattern, 297.
+
+    Picking up stitches, 296.
+
+    Plain knitting, 290.
+
+    Purling, 291.
+
+    Round knitting, 294.
+
+    Spiral stitch, 298.
+
+    Knitting stitch for comforters, &c., 32.
+
+
+  LACE, Bedford plaited (1851), 423.
+
+  (Lace, black), Buckingham point troll (1851), 422.
+
+  Lace border for veils in guipure d'art 537.
+
+  Lace border in guipure d'art, 522.
+
+  Lace, crochet, 251.
+
+  Lace, crochet, 261.
+
+  Lace, Dalecarlian, 419.
+
+  Lace, deep, in tatting, 27.
+
+  Lace edging in tatting, 3.
+
+  Lace edging in tatting, 4.
+
+  Lace, Honiton guipure, 424.
+
+  Lace insertion, embroidered, 207.
+
+  Lace in tatting and crochet, 40.
+
+  Lace, Mechlin (Queen Charlotte's), 4
+
+  Lace, netted, 309.
+
+  Lace, netted, open, 310.
+
+  Lace, old Mechlin, 420.
+
+  LACE POINT.
+
+    Braid, placing the, 442.
+
+    Braids, 426 to 431.
+
+    Cords, p. 453.
+
+    Edgings, 474 to 479.
+
+    General directions for working, pp. 453, 454.
+
+    Materials required, p. 451.
+
+    Modes of working dots and picots, 470, 473.
+
+    Scissors for, 425.
+
+    Threads, sizes of, p. 500.
+
+  Lace, tatted, 26.
+
+  Lace, tatted, 27.
+
+  Lady's embroidered purse, 157.
+
+  Lady's veil in net and tatting, 16, 17.
+
+  Lappet or sash-end in. Venetian embroidery, 205.
+
+  Linen collar embroidered, 193.
+
+  Linen collar embroidered, 194.
+
+  Linen tatting-bag, 46.
+
+  Linen bag for tatting cotton, 30.
+
+  Looped knitting, 335.
+
+
+  MATERIALS required fur knitting, 287.
+
+  Materials required for netting. 302.
+
+  Mechlin lace (Queen Charlotte's), 421.
+
+  Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 198.
+
+  Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 199.
+
+  Medallion for trimming lingeries in tatting, 58.
+
+  Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 210.
+
+  Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 211.
+
+  Medallion, tatting, 58.
+
+  Mignardise and tatting, 29.
+
+  MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN EMBROIDERY.
+
+    Alphabet, coral stitch embroidery, 353.
+
+    Alphabet, floral embroidery, 361.
+
+    Alphabet, florid style of embroidery, 356.
+
+    Alphabet, forget-me-nots (embroidered), 352.
+
+    Alphabet, point d'or (embroidered), 357.
+
+    Alphabet, raised satin stitch embroidery, 359.
+
+    Alphabet, satin stitch (embroidered), 351.
+
+    Alphabet, scalloped, in embroidery, 355.
+
+    Alphabet, small, in embroidery, 354.
+
+    Alphabet, star, capitals, in embroidery, 349.
+
+    Alphabet, star, small, in embroidery, 350.
+
+    Alphabet, white, embroidery, 358.
+
+    Initials in embroidery, 366 to 417.
+
+    Monograms in embroidery, 366 to 417.
+
+    Names in embroidery, 362 to 418.
+
+    Sampler in embroidery, 360.
+
+  Muslin cravat, embroidered, 153.
+
+
+  Neckerchief, knitted, 323.
+
+  Needle and mesh for netting, 302.
+
+  Needles, knitting, 287.
+
+  Netted fichu, 315, 316.
+
+  Netted lace, 309.
+
+  Netted nightcaps, 343, 344.
+
+  Netted open lace, 310.
+
+  Netted shell border, 311.
+
+  Netting, 302.
+
+  Netting, 303.
+
+  NETTING STITCHES.
+
+    Diamond, 306.
+
+    English, 308.
+
+    Bound, 305, 307.
+
+    Square, 304.
+
+  Netting, materials required for, 302.
+
+  Netting needle and mesh, 302.
+
+  Nightcaps, netted, 343, 344.
+
+
+  Old Mechlin lace, 420.
+
+  ON KNITTING, 287.
+
+
+  Parasol-Cover in guipure d'art, 568.
+
+  Patterns for arm-chair crochet borders, 255, 256.
+
+  Pattern for a couvrette in appliqué, 213 to 215.
+
+  Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 135.
+
+  Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 137.
+
+  Pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 184.
+
+  Pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 185.
+
+  Patterns, embroidery, for what-not (full size), 196.
+
+  Pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 133.
+
+  Pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 139.
+
+  Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 201.
+
+  Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 203.
+
+  Pattern for embroidered letter-case, 177.
+
+  Pattern for embroidered needle-book, 166.
+  Pattern for embroidered needle-book, 167.
+
+  Pattern for knitted comforters, 336.
+
+  Pattern for knitted counterpanes, 313.
+
+  Pattern for trimming lingeries in embroidery, 143, 144.
+
+  Patterns for veil in tatting, 18, 19.
+
+  Pattern, knitted, 345.
+
+  PATTERNS, POINT LACE.
+
+    Alphabet, 502.
+
+    Alphabet, description of, 500 to 502.
+
+    Bars, d'Alençon and Sorrento, 494.
+
+    Borders, 482, 483.
+
+    Collars, 493, 496.
+
+    Cravat end, 487.
+
+    Design for point lace collar, lappets, &c., 490.
+
+    Dress trimming, 492.
+
+    Edgings, 488, 489.
+
+    Handkerchief border, 485.
+
+    Insertion (Limoges), 484.
+
+    Lappet, 490.
+
+    Lappet, 497.
+
+    Letter __A in point lace, 500, 501.
+
+    Medallion, 481.
+
+    Oval for cravats, 491.
+
+    Star, 480.
+
+    Toilet cushion centre, 486.
+
+    Wheels, close English, 495.
+
+  Penwiper in embroidery, 186, 187.
+
+  Point Lace.
+
+    Braid, placing the, 442.
+
+    Braids, 426 to 431.
+
+    Cords, p. 453.
+
+    Edgings, 474 to 479.
+
+    General directions for working, 453, 454.
+
+    Materials required, p. 451.
+
+    Modes of working dots or picots, 470, 473.
+
+    Scissors for, 425.
+
+    Threads, sizes of, p. 500.
+
+  Point Lace Bars.
+
+    D'Alençon, 463.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 467.
+
+    Point de Venise, edged, 468.
+
+    Point de Venise, dotted, 469.
+
+    Raleigh, 471, 472.
+
+    Sorrento, 461, 462.
+
+    Sorrento, dotted, 469.
+
+    Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466.
+
+  Point lace edgings and purled edgings.
+
+    Antwerp, 479.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 477.
+
+    Point do Bruxelles, 474.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, 478.
+
+    Point de Venise, 476.
+
+    Sorrento, 475.
+
+  Point lace patterns.
+
+    Alphabet, 502.
+
+    Alphabet, description of, 500, 502.
+
+    Bars, d'Alençon and Sorrento, 494.
+
+    Borders, 482, 483.
+
+    Collars, 493, 496.
+
+    Cravat end, 487.
+
+    Design for point Lice collar, lappets, &c., 490.
+
+    Dress trimming, 492.
+
+    Edgings, 488, 489.
+
+    Handkerchief border, 485.
+
+    Insertion (Limoges), 484.
+
+    Lappet, 490.
+
+    Lappet, 497.
+
+    Letter _A_ in point lace, 500, 501.
+
+    Medallion, 481.
+
+    Oval for cravats, 491.
+
+    Star, 480.
+
+    Toilet cushion centre, 486.
+
+    Wheels, close English, 495.
+
+  Point lace stitches.
+
+    Brussels lace, 433, 434.
+
+    Escalier lace, 454.
+
+    Mechlin lace, 453.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 444.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, enlarged, 445.
+
+    Point d'Anvers, 498.
+
+    Point d'Alençon, 442.
+
+    Point d'Alençon, 443.
+
+    Point Brabançon, 449.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434.
+
+    Point de Cordova, 447.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, 437.
+
+    Point d'Espagne; close, 438.
+
+    Point d' Espagne, treble, 439.
+
+    Point de fillet, 450.
+
+    Point de fillet and point reprise, 451.
+
+    Point de Grecque, 440, 499.
+
+    Point de reprise. 448.
+
+    Point de tulle, 452.
+
+    Point Turque, 446.
+
+    Point de Valenciennes, 441.
+
+    Point de Venise, 435.
+
+    Point de Venise, petit, 436.
+
+    Spanish point, 455.
+
+  Point lace wheel and rosettes.
+
+    English, plain, 458.
+
+    English, raised, 459.
+
+    Mechlin, 453.
+
+    Rosette for centres, 460.
+
+    Sorrento, 456, 457.
+
+    Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457.
+
+  Point Russe stitch for embroidered slipper, 209.
+
+  Purse, crochet sovereign, 246.
+
+  Purse in crochet over rings, 248.
+
+  Parse in tatting and beads, 42.
+
+  Purse, knitted, 317.
+
+
+  Quarter-square in guipure d'art, 530.
+
+  Quilt, knitted, 328.
+
+
+  Rose-leaf in embroidery, 173.
+
+  Rosettes, crochet, 280, 281.
+
+  Rosettes, embroidery and tatting, 48, 61, 63.
+
+  Rosette for antimacassar in knitting, 319.
+
+  Rosettes in guipure d'art, 529, 562, 563.
+
+  Rosette in tatting, 8.
+
+  Rosette in tatting, 34.
+
+  Rosette in tatting, 35.
+
+  Rosette in tatting, 45.
+
+  Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 48.
+
+  Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 61.
+
+  Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 63.
+
+  Round netting, 305, 307.
+
+
+  SANDWICH-CASE in embroidery, 154.
+
+  Scent-sachet in guipure d'art, 569.
+
+  Shawl, knitted, 346 to 348.
+
+  Shell border, netted, 311.
+
+  Sleeping sock, knitted, 314.
+
+  Slipper, embroidered on Java canvas, 208.
+
+  Sock, knitted, for a child, 312.
+
+  Sofa-cushion, knitted cover for, 341, 342.
+
+  Squares for antimacassar in guipure d'art, 550, 551.
+
+  Square for d'oyley in guipure d art, 523.
+
+  Square, guipure d'art, 531.
+
+  Square, guipure d'art, 532.
+
+  Square, guipure d'art, 556.
+
+  Squares, guipure d'art, 570, 576.
+
+  Squares in guipure d'art, 533 to 536.
+
+  Squares in guipure d'art, 538, 538a.
+
+  Squares in guipure d'art, 554, 555.
+
+  Squares in guipure d'art for dresses, 546, 547.
+
+  Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), 540.
+
+  Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), enlarged, 541.
+
+  Square in tatting for pincushion or couvrette, 33.
+
+  Square netting, 304.
+
+  Squares, small, in guipure d'art, 527.
+
+  Star, crochet, 244.
+
+  Stars in crochet, 247.
+
+  Stars in embroidery, 137, 143, 144.
+
+  Stars in embroidery, 180, 181.
+
+  Star in tatting, 9.
+
+  STITCHES, CROCHET.
+
+    Cross stitch, 224.
+
+    Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231.
+
+    Double long treble stitch, 228.
+
+    Double stitch, 220, 221.
+
+    Long double stitch, 225.
+
+    Long treble stitch, 227.
+
+    Purl stitch, 236.
+
+    Purl stitch, 237.
+
+    Purl stitch, 238.
+
+    Raised treble stitch, 235.
+
+    Raised ribbed stitch, 222.
+
+    Raised slanting stitch, 223.
+
+    Slip stitch, 219.
+
+    Treble stitch, 226.
+
+  STITCHES, GUIPURE D'ART.
+
+    Grounding, 533 to 536.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510.
+
+    Point d'esprit, 504.
+
+    Point de feston, 506.
+
+    Point de reprise, 507, 508.
+
+    Point de toile, 505.
+
+    Stars, 516 to 520.
+
+    Wheels, 511 to 515.
+
+  STITCHES, KNITTING.
+
+    Brioche stitch, 301.
+
+    Casting off, 295.
+
+    Casting on, 288.
+
+    Decreasing, 293.
+
+    Increasing, 292.
+
+    Knitting on, 289.
+
+    Knotted stitch, 299.
+
+    Looped knitting, 335.
+
+    Moss borders, 300.
+
+    Peacock-tail pattern, 297.
+
+    Picking up stitches, 296.
+
+    Plain, 290.
+
+    Purling, 291.
+
+    Round knitting, 294.
+
+    Spiral stitch, 298.
+
+  STITCHES, NETTING.
+
+    Diamond, 306.
+
+    English, 308.
+
+    Round, 305, 307.
+
+    Square, 304.
+
+  STITCHES, POINT LACE.
+
+    Brussels lace, 433, 434.
+
+    Escalier lace, 454.
+
+    Mechlin lace, 453.
+
+    Point d'Alençon, 442.
+
+    Point d'Alençon, 443.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 444.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, enlarged,
+
+    Point d'Anvers, 498.
+
+    Point Brabançon, 449.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434.
+
+    Point de Cordova, 447.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, 437.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, close, 438.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, treble, 439.
+
+    Point de fillet, 450.
+
+    Point de fillet and point reprise, 451.
+
+    Point de Grecque, 440, 499.
+
+    Point de reprise, 448.
+
+    Point de tulle, 452.
+
+    Point Turque, 446.
+
+    Point de Valenciennes, 441,
+
+    Point de Venise, 435.
+
+    Point de Venise, petit, 436.
+
+    Spanish point, 455.
+
+
+  TABLE-COVER, knitted, 333, 334.
+
+  Table-napkin ring in embroidery, 153.
+
+  Table of sizes of knitting cotton, p. 363.
+
+  Tatting and beads, purse in, 42.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, border in, 22.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, border in, 52.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 41.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 43.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, lace in, 40.
+
+  Tatting and darned netting, collar in, 28.
+
+  Tatting and darned netting, cravat-end in, 64.
+
+  Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 48.
+
+  Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 61.
+
+  Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 63.
+
+  Tatting and lace stitch, insertion in, 23.
+
+  Tatting and mignardise, 29.
+
+  Tatting and muslin, cravat in, 50.
+
+  Tatting and net, lady's veil in, 16, 17.
+
+  Tatting, antimacassar in, 65.
+
+  Tatting-bag, linen, 46.
+
+  Tatting, border, 47.
+
+  Tatting, border for cap in. 6.
+
+  Tatting, border in crochet and, 15.
+
+  Tatting, border in crochet and, 22.
+
+  Tatting, border in, with crochet edging, 5, 6.
+
+  Tatting, border in lace stitch and, 44.
+
+  Tatting, border, with beads, 13.
+
+  Tatting, cap-crown in, 37.
+
+  Tatting, cap in, 38, 39.
+
+  Tatting, circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 21.
+
+  Tatting, circle in, 12.
+
+  Tatting, circle in, 21.
+
+  Tatting, circle in, 57.
+
+  Tatting, collar in, 55.
+
+  Tatting, collar in, 56.
+
+  Tatting, collar, pine pattern in, 1.
+
+  Tatting-cotton, p. 82.
+
+  Tatting-cotton, linen bag for, 30.
+
+  Tatting, couvrette, centre of a, 25.
+
+  Tatting, cravat-end in, 60.
+
+  Tatting, cravat-end in, 62.
+
+  Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51.
+
+  Tatting, cravat in, 50.
+
+  Tatting, deep border in crochet and, 52.
+
+  Tatting, deep lace in, 27.
+
+  Tatting, diamond in, 20.
+
+  Tatting, diamond in. 36.
+
+  Tatting, diamond in, 53.
+
+  Tatting, diamond in, 59.
+
+  Tatting, diamond, for collars, &c., 20.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 27.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 11.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 14.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 24.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 31.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 32.
+
+  Tatting, insertion in, for trimming lingeries, 11.
+
+  Tatting, insertion worked in, 10.
+
+  TATTING INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+    Joining the work, p. v.
+
+    Pin, tatting, p. ii.
+
+    Shuttles, tatting, pp. i, iii.
+
+    The way to hold the hands, p. iii.
+
+    The way to make aloop in tatting, p. iv.
+
+    The way to make a purl, p. v.
+
+    The way to make a stitch in tatting, p. iv.
+
+  Tatting, lace, 26.
+
+  Tatting, lace, 27.
+
+  Tatting, lace edging in, 3.
+
+  Tatting, lace edging in, 4.
+
+  Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 49.
+
+  Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 54.
+
+  Tatting, medallion for trimming lingeries in, 58.
+
+  Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51.
+
+  Tatting, patterns for veils in, 18, 19.
+
+  Tatting, rosette in, 8.
+
+  Tatting, rosette in, 34.
+
+  Tatting, rosette in, 35.
+
+  Tatting, rosette in, 45.
+
+  Tatting, square in, for pincushion or couvrette, 33.
+
+  Tatting, star in, 9.
+
+  Tatting, trimming for collar in, 49.
+
+  Tatting, trimming for collar in, 54.
+
+  Tatting, wide insertion in, 10.
+
+  Tatting, wide insertion in, 14.
+
+  Tatting, wide insertion in, 43.
+
+  Tatting, with beads, border in, 13,
+
+  Tobacco-pouch in crochet work, 278, 279.
+
+  Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 163.
+
+  Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 164.
+
+  Toilet-cushion cover in white embroidery, 171, 172, 173.
+
+  Travelling-bag in embroidery, 168.
+
+  Trimming, crochet, with embroidered flowers
+    worked in appliqué and velvet ribbon, 282.
+
+  Tramming for a lady's chemise, in crochet, 286.
+
+  Trimming in embroidery for bodices, 170.
+
+
+  VEIL, knitted, 330, 331.
+
+  Veil, lady's, in net and tatting, 16, 17.
+
+  Veils, patterns for, in tatting, 19.
+
+  Venetian border in embroidery, 206.
+
+
+  WASTE-PAPER basket in embroidery, 191.
+
+  What-not, embroidered in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196.
+
+  WHEELS AND ROSETTES, POINT LACE.
+
+    English plain, 458.
+
+    English raised, 459.
+
+    Mechlin, 453.
+
+    Rosette for centres, 460.
+
+    Sorrento, 456, 457.
+
+    Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457.
+
+  Wing of bird in embroidery, 172.
+
+  Work-bag in embroidery, 200.
+
+  Work-basket covered with guipure d'art, 545.
+
+  Work-basket in straw and silk crochet* work, 272, 273.
+
+  Work-case in guipure d'art, 571, 572.
+
+  Wreath in embroidery for centre of pin-cushion or toilet-mat, 148.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton
+
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+Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
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+
+
+Title: Beeton's Book of Needlework
+
+Author: Isabella Beeton
+
+Release Date: February 22, 2005 [EBook #15147]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEETON'S BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julie Barkley and the PG Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<div style=
+" background-color: white; color: black; border-style: ridge;">
+<center>
+<h1>BEETON'S BOOK</h1>
+
+<h1>OF</h1>
+
+<h1>NEEDLEWORK.</h1>
+</center>
+</div>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h2>CONSISTING<br>
+<br>
+ OF<br>
+<br>
+ DESCRIPTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS,<br>
+<br>
+ ILLUSTRATED BY<br>
+<br>
+ SIX HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS,<br>
+<br>
+ OF TATTING PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ CROCHET PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ KNITTING PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ NETTING PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ EMBROIDERY PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ POINT LACE PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ GUIPURE D'ART.<br>
+<br>
+ BERLIN WORK.<br>
+<br>
+ MONOGRAMS.<br>
+<br>
+ INITIALS AND NAMES.<br>
+<br>
+ PILLOW LACE, AND LACE STITCHES.</h2>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h4><em>Every Pattern and Stitch Described and Engraved with the
+utmost<br>
+Accuracy and the Exact Quantity of Material requisite for<br>
+each Pattern stated.</em></h4>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<h4>CHANCELLOR PRESS</h4>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<center>
+<h5><em>Beeton's Book of Needlework</em> was originally
+published<br>
+ in Great Britain in 1870 by Ward, Lock and Tyler.</h5>
+</center>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h5>This facsimile edition published in Great<br>
+Britain in 1986 by<br>
+Chancellor Press<br>
+59 Grosvenor Street London W 1</h5>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<h5>Printed in Czechoslovakia 50617</h5>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+ <a name="PREFACE"></a>
+<h3>SAMUEL BUTLER'S PREFACE</h3>
+
+<p>The Art of Needlework dates from the earliest record of the
+world's history, and has, also, from time immemorial been the
+support, comfort, or employment of women of every rank and age. Day
+by day, it increases its votaries, who enlarge and develop its
+various branches, so that any addition and assistance in teaching
+or learning Needlework will be welcomed by the Daughters of
+England, "wise of heart," who work diligently with their hands.</p>
+
+<p>The recent introduction of Point Lace has brought a finer, and,
+apparently, more difficult class of fancy work into general favour.
+Ladies may now, however, confidently commence, with our patterns
+before them, to reproduce Antique laces; for care and patience,
+with a knowledge of Point Lace stitches, are alone required to
+perfect the beautiful work, which, as shown in existing specimens
+of exquisite Old Lace, constitute the chief glory of women's
+refined industry in past centuries.</p>
+
+<p><b>INSTRUCTIONS</b> in <b>TATTING</b>, in <b>EMBROIDERY</b>, in
+<b>CROCHET</b>, in <b>KNITTING</b> and <b>NETTING</b>, in <b>BERLIN
+WOOL WORK</b>, in <b>POINT LACE</b>, and <b>GUIPURE D'ART</b> are
+prefixed to the pages devoted to these separate branches of
+needlework. The whole work is interspersed with coloured and other
+Patterns in Point Lace, Guipure d'Art, Tatting, Embroidery, and
+Designs for Monograms and Initials for marking handkerchiefs and
+table-linen. The quantity of materials required for each class of
+work is also given with every pattern.</p>
+
+<p>The idea of combining a series of minute and exact instructions
+in fancy needlework with useful patterns was conceived some years
+ago by one whose life was devoted to the inculcation of the
+practical duties of woman's life, and to assisting her sex in their
+daily work of <b>HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT</b> and
+<b>REFINEMENT</b>.</p>
+
+<p>Her great wish was that her <b>BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK</b> should be
+as valuable in its way to her Countrywomen as her work upon
+Household Management was useful in showing the best mode of
+providing for the diurnal wants of families. Other hands have
+brought to a conclusion her original plans. The best attainable
+workers have contributed to this volume. Only those who knew the
+extent of the late Mrs. Beeton's design, will miss, in the pages
+now before them, "the touch of a vanished hand."</p>
+
+<p>S.O.B.</p>
+
+<p><em>Paternoster Row,</em> 1870.</p>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<b>CONTENTS.</b>
+
+
+
+<table summary="toc">
+
+
+<tr>
+<td>TATTING INSTRUCTIONS.</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href=
+"#page_i">i--vi</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>TATTING PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_1">1</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+
+<tr>
+<td>EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_83">83</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>EMBROIDERY PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_105">105</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_185">185</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>CROCHET PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_199">199</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_289">289</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>NETTING INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_301">301</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_309">309</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>ALPHABETS FOR MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_371">371</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_401">401</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>POINT LACE WORK</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_445">445</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>POINT LACE INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_451">451</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>POINT LACE PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_482">482</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS IN GUIPURE D'ART</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_503">503</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_559">559</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+</table>
+<br>
+ <br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<h2>TATTING</h2>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_i" id="page_i">[i]</a></span>
+<a name="TATTING_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+<h3>TATTING INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<center><a name="image_a"><img alt="Tatting Shuttle." src=
+"images/imagea.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The needlework called Tatting in England,
+<em>Frivolit&eacute;</em> in French, and <em>Frivolit&auml;ten</em>
+in German, is a work which seems, from all accounts, to have been
+in favour several generations ago. Modern ingenuity has discovered
+some ways of improving on the original plan of tatting, which was,
+indeed, rather a primitive sort of business as first practised. To
+Mrs. Mee, one of our most accomplished <em>artistes</em> in all
+matters connected with the work-table, belongs, we believe, the
+introduction of the plan of working from the reel instead of the
+shuttle. By this alteration the advantage of the shuttle being
+constantly kept filled with cotton was gained, and the necessity
+also obviated for frequently <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_ii" id="page_ii">[ii]</a></span> joining the thread; and to
+Mdlle. Riego, equally distinguished in all details appertaining to
+the employment of the needle, ladies are indebted for an
+arrangement by which the same thread used in the making of the
+pattern is used for fastening the work. The old plan only provided
+for the working of the different portions which constituted the
+pattern, and then these portions had to be sewn together with a
+needle and thread. The ingenious workers on the Continent have also
+given much attention of late to the art of tatting, and our
+instructions now printed comprise what we consider the best mode of
+learning and doing this exceedingly interesting and fashionable
+work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_b"><img alt="Tatting pin" src=
+"images/imageb.jpg" width="326" height="199"></a></center>
+
+<p>Tatting differs entirely from crochet, and is composed of
+stitches forming <em>knots</em>. It is intended as an imitation of
+point lace, and is especially used for trimming under-linen, on
+account of its strength.</p>
+
+<p>To make the stitches or knots a small instrument is used, called
+a <em>shuttle</em>. This shuttle consists of two oval pieces, flat
+on one side and convex on the other, and is made of wood or
+ivory.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_iii" id=
+"page_iii">[iii]</a></span>
+
+<p>The two oval pieces are joined together by a strong cross-piece.
+The illustration shows the construction of the shuttle. These
+shuttles are made in ivory, pearl, tortoiseshell inlaid with pearl,
+and silver; they are also manufactured in coloured bone, black,
+red, and white. The best to work with are the pearl for a white
+shuttle, and the inlaid tortoiseshell for a black shuttle; the
+prices vary from sixpence to one shilling and two-and-sixpence
+each. In selecting a shuttle be careful to see that the ends close,
+as if dropped it soon becomes unthreaded, which is very
+inconvenient. The cotton intended for the work is wound round this
+shuttle, and the thickness of the cotton varies according to the
+style of work. It is better to use the proper tatting cotton,
+because it is stronger than the ordinary kinds; this is
+manufactured by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. for the purpose. Their
+Boar's Head Cotton is also frequently used, and answers very
+well.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>Shuttles.</em></p>
+
+<p>These are made in 3 sizes:--Finest, No. 1; No. 2, useful medium
+size; No. 3, the largest.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>The Way to Hold the Hands.</em></p>
+
+<p>Take the shuttle in the right hand, between the thumb and second
+finger, and allow the forefinger to remain at liberty, and rest the
+under part of the shuttle <em>between</em> the second and third and
+<em>on</em> the middle finger. Place the thread round the three
+middle fingers of the left hand, so as to form a loop, keeping the
+second and third fingers a little apart, and bring the cotton again
+between the thumb and forefinger, letting the end fall within the
+palm of the hand, while the end of cotton which holds on to the
+shuttle passes over the thumb-nail.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>To Make a Stitch.</em></p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_iv" id=
+"page_iv">[iv]</a></span>
+
+<p>Keep the hands in the position above described; pass the shuttle
+at the back, through the loop--that is, between the second and
+third fingers. Take the end of the shuttle which comes out from the
+loop between the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and strain
+the cotton very tightly towards the right. When the cotton is drawn
+through the loop, this cotton must not be impeded by the fourth
+finger; it should, on the contrary, slide over it, and be drawn
+tight. It should divide the loop into two parts. After this
+withdraw the second left-hand finger, which is <em>above</em> the
+cotton, and pass it again under that cotton, so as to draw up the
+loop. A <em>half-stitch</em> is thus formed, and must be tightened
+by being drawn closely to the forefinger and thumb of the left
+hand. For the remaining half of the stitch keep the hands in the
+same position, but, instead of letting the cotton fall over the
+thumb, pass this cotton over the back of the hand; then let the
+shuttle fall between the second and third fingers of the left hand,
+in front, and take it out again at the back, strain the cotton very
+tightly, withdraw the second finger from the loop, letting the
+cotton which is behind the hand sweep over the fingers. When this
+is done, guide with the unoccupied fingers of the left hand this
+second half-stitch up to the other, thus completing <em>one
+stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>The Way to Make a Loop in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>When a certain number of stitches are made, very tightly draw in
+the loop by straining the cotton until the first stitch touches the
+last, and thus a loop is formed. During this process the stitches
+should be held tightly between the forefinger and thumb.</p>
+
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_v" id="page_v">[v]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>The Way to Make a Purl.</em></p>
+
+<p>A <em>purl</em> is a small loop of cotton often used as an
+edging in tatting, as, for instance, round the outer edge of the
+ovals in tatted insertion No. 2. The following is the easiest
+method of making a purl:--The stitches are not made quite closely
+together at the place where a purl is to be made; about one-sixth
+of an inch is left between each. This space is left free until the
+loop is made by uniting the stitches; then the small piece of
+cotton in the space bulges out between the stitches, and forms the
+purl. If several are required a small space is left between every
+two or three stitches, according to the desired number. Care must
+be taken in that case that the small pieces of cotton left be all
+of the same length, so that the purl may be perfectly even. The
+purl can also be made thus: At the same time with the end of thread
+take the tatting-pin or a very large darning needle or knitting
+needle in the left hand, so that the point may come out farther
+than the row of stitches; if then you wish to make a purl, throw
+the cotton on the pin before making the stitch; then fasten this
+stitch, and push it at once close to the preceding; the pin with
+the cotton should come above the stitches. Do not take out the pin
+before all the purl and all the stitches are completed and joined
+together.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>Joining the Work.</em></p>
+
+<p>Place the tatting-pin in the loop that is to be joined, and with
+the hook draw the thread of the loop--that is, round the hand
+through it--pass the shuttle through this loop, and draw it up
+tightly close to the stitches.</p>
+
+<p>A "straight" or double thread is used to join various parts of
+the work, and forms very beautiful patterns. Without the straight
+thread we <span class="newpage"><a name="page_vi" id=
+"page_vi">[vi]</a></span> should be unable to imitate point lace
+patterns, or, indeed, to execute any designs but those composed of
+circles, ovals, &amp;c. To use this straight thread 2 shuttles are
+required; they should be of different colours. Sometimes one end of
+thread is left attached to the reel instead of using the second
+shuttle. In commencing a loop the straight thread is held between
+the second and third fingers of the left hand, about 2 or 3 inches
+from the work; the other shuttle is held as usual in the right
+hand, and the stitches and purls worked with it upon the foundation
+of the straight thread of the second shuttle.</p>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">[1]</a></span>
+<a name="TATTING_PATTERNS."></a>
+<h3>TATTING PATTERNS.</h3>
+
+<p>1.--<em>Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_1"><img alt="Pine Pattern Collar" src=
+"images/image001.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+80, or tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3; a small
+shuttle.</p>
+
+<p>This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton as
+follows:--<em>1st circle:</em> 2 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double,
+draw up the cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd circle:</em> 3 double, join it to the last purl of the
+1st circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton
+up.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd circle:</em> 2 double, join it to the last purl of the
+2nd circle, 1 double, join it to the 7th purl of the 2nd circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton up.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th circle:</em> 2 double, join it to the last purl of 3rd
+circle, 3 double, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_2" id=
+"page_2">[2]</a></span> 1 purl, 1 double 7 times, 1 double, draw
+the cotton up.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th circle:</em> 2 double, join it to the last purl of 4th
+circle, 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 3 times, draw up the cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th circle:</em> 2 double, join it to the last purl of the
+5th circle, 1 double, join it to the 5th purl of the preceding
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 1 double, join it to the first
+purl of the 1st circle, 2 double, draw up the cotton. This
+completes the star pattern in centre of pine.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st circle of pine:</em> 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 8 times,
+2 double, draw up the cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd circle:</em> 3 double, join to the last purl of 1st
+circle, 1 double, join it to the 7th purl of 1st circle, 1 double,
+1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the 3rd
+purl of centre star.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd circle:</em> 3 double, join to the last purl of 2nd
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and
+join it on to the centre purl of 2nd circle in star.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th circle:</em> 2 double, join to the last purl of 3rd
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 5 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double, draw
+up the cotton and join it to the 5th purl of 2nd centre circle in
+star.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th circle:</em> 2 double, join the cotton to the last purl
+of 4th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the
+cotton, repeat the 5th circle twice more, then join the cotton to
+the centre purl of 4th circle in star.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th circle:</em> 2 double, join to the last purl of 7th
+circle, 1 purl, 1 double 5 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and
+join it to the centre purl of 5th circle in star.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th circle:</em> 2 double, join to the last purl of 8th
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
+Repeat the 9th circle 3 times.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th circle:</em> 3 double, join the cotton to the last purl
+of the 12th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 4 double, draw up the
+cotton, turn the work downwards, and work the</p>
+
+<p><em>14th circle:</em> 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, join it to the
+1st purl of the 1st circle of pine, 1 double, join it to the 2nd
+purl of first pine circle,1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw
+up the cotton.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">[3]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>15th circle:</em> 3 double, join to the last purl of the
+13th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the
+cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th circle:</em>3 double, join to the last purl of the 15th
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 4 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, draw
+up the cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>17th circle:</em> 1 double, join to the last purl of the
+16th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the
+cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>18th circle:</em> 1 double, join to the last purl of the
+17th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 1 double, draw up the
+cotton, and repeat from commencement until the collar is the
+required size. The upper part of the pines is filled in with lace
+stitches, as clearly shown in our illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>2.--<em>Tatted Insertion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30,
+or Boar's Head crochet cotton No. 12; tatting pin No. 2; large
+shuttle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_2"><img alt="Tatted Insertion" src=
+"images/image002.jpg" width="376" height="153"></a></center>
+
+<p>This insertion should be worked with coarse cotton. 5 double *,
+1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 4 times, 1 purl, 5 double, draw up
+the cotton, turn the pattern downward, and work another circle the
+same as that above described, leaving one-sixth of an inch of
+cotton between each circle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>3.--<em>Lace Edging in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10,
+or tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For
+a finer edging, No. 18.</p>
+
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from
+the reel, as a double thread is used, and commence by working 10
+double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double; draw up.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">[4]</a></span>
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> Putting the thread attached to the reel
+round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_3"><img alt="Lace Edging " src=
+"images/image003.jpg" width="482" height="128"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> 10 double, join to purl in 1st oval, 10
+double; draw up.</p>
+
+<p>The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care
+that the next oval be close to the last.</p>
+
+<p>Crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 7 chain, 1
+double into the purl in double thread. Repeat.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>4.--<em>Lace Edging in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10,
+or tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For
+a finer edging, No. 18.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_4"><img alt="Lace Edging " src=
+"images/image004.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from
+the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working
+10 double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double stitches, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> Close to last oval, work 10 double, 1 purl,
+10 double; draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> Putting the thread attached to the reel
+round the left <span class="newpage"><a name="page_5" id=
+"page_5">[5]</a></span> hand, work 12 double, 1 purl, 4 double;
+then join the shuttle-thread to the purl in 2nd oval, by drawing it
+through with a pin. Then do another similar chain of stitches with
+the double thread, viz., 4 double, 1 purl, 12 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd oval:</em> 10 double, join to the purl in 2nd oval--the
+same as that to which the shuttle-thread has been fastened--10
+double; draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th oval:</em> Close to last oval, work 10 double, join to
+purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p>The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care
+that the next oval be close to the last. Crochet a heading with the
+same cotton, working 4 chain, 1 double into the purl of double
+thread, 6 chain, 1 double into the next purl. Repeat.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>5.--<em>Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60,
+or crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2; a bone shuttle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_5"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging." src="images/image005.jpg"
+width="346" height="157"></a></center>
+
+<p>Work * 4 double stitches (that is, 4 times following 1 purled
+stitch and 1 plain), 1 purl, four times following 3 double
+stitches, 1 purl, 4 double stitches, draw up the cotton so as to
+form an oval, and for the smaller oval, work 9 double stitches, but
+leave, before beginning the first double stitch, the space of
+one-sixth of an inch between this oval and the preceding; repeat
+from *, leaving the same space between each oval; join together the
+larger ovals by the purl.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">[6]</a></span>
+
+<p>For the crochet edging, work the 1st row in the following
+manner:--</p>
+
+<p>1 double (followed by 6 chain) in each of the smaller ovals. The
+2nd and 3rd rows are composed of short treble stitches, placed one
+above the other, and divided by one chain. While working the short
+treble stitches of the 3rd row form the small purl thus:--</p>
+
+<p>* 1 short treble in the first short treble of preceding row, let
+the loop slip off from the crochet needle, insert the needle in the
+under stitch, from which comes the loop now made into a purl, work
+1 double in the first short treble of preceding row, 1 chain, under
+which miss 1 stitch, and repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>6.--<em>Border in Tatting with Crochet.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20, or tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2. For a coarser size
+use Boar's Head cotton No. 4, or tatting cotton No. 20.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_6"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting with Crochet." src="images/image006.jpg" width=
+"304" height="142"></a></center>
+
+<p>4 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 times following, 3 double stitches,
+1 purl, 4 double stitches, draw up the oval, but not quite tight,
+leave a space about one-sixth of an inch, leave a similar space
+between this oval and the next, work 3 double stitches, fasten them
+to the nearest purl of preceding oval, then work twice following 4
+double stitches, 1 purl, then 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 3 double
+stitches, and draw up the oval.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>7.--<em>Tatted Insertion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head crochet
+cotton No. 18; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This strip of insertion is worked with crochet cotton, and <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">[7]</a></span>
+consists of a row of circles, two of which are always joined
+together, and edged on either side with chain stitches. Work first
+* 2 double, 4 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, 1 long purl about
+one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double divided by 1 purl, 1 long
+purl, 4 times alternately 1 double, 1 purl, then 2 double; join the
+stitches into a circle; work close to this a second circle, and
+knot the end of the cotton together with the cotton with which the
+first circle has been begun; repeat from *, but henceforward in the
+first of the two circles fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of
+the preceding circle, instead of working the middle purl. When the
+strip of insertion is sufficiently long, edge it on either side
+with a row of chain stitches, by working 1 double in 1 long purl
+and 5 chain between.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_7"><img alt="Tatted Insertion." src=
+"images/image007.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>8.--<em>Rosette in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This rosette is worked with two cottons, viz., 1 plain, 1 purl,
+1 plain, 5 double, 1 purl, 10 double, 1 purl, 1 plain; turn the
+work downwards, 10 double, fastened on the last purl turned
+downwards; this forms one loop turned upwards; turn work downwards,
+10 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on first purl turned
+downwards; turn figure thus formed downwards; 4 double, 1 single,
+repeat 4 times more from *, joining the <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_8" id="page_8">[8]</a></span> figures by means of the
+purl stitch; the ends of the cotton are knotted together.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_8"><img alt="Rosette in Tatting" src=
+"images/image008.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>9.--<em>Star in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_9"><img alt="Star in Tatting." src=
+"images/image009.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Fill the shuttle, and commencing a loop, work 1 double, then 1
+purl and 1 double 12 times, draw into a round; join the cotton to
+the 1st purl loop. 1st oval.--Commence a loop close to the joining,
+work 7 double, join to 1st purl of round, work 7 double and draw
+close; reverse the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_9" id=
+"page_9">[9]</a></span> work. Join the thread from reel, and
+holding it out for a straight thread, commence the scallop:--</p>
+
+<p>5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, reverse the work. The 2nd oval same
+as first. Repeat oval and scallop alternately, until the star is
+completed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>10.--<em>Insertion worked in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_10"><img alt="Insertion worked in Tatting."
+src="images/image010.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This strip of insertion is worked with two cottons. Work with
+the cotton in the left hand over that in the right hand. Both ends
+of cotton are fastened together at the beginning by a knot. First
+work one half of the insertion the long way in the following
+manner:--1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain (the purl must be very short);
+turn the purl downwards, 6 double, 1 purl, * 6 double, 1 purl, 1
+plain, which must all be turned upwards; then turn the work so that
+the upper edge is turned downwards; work 6 double, fastened on to
+the last purl turned downwards (the fastening of the stitches is
+made with the thread in the right hand); a loop turned upwards is
+thus formed; turn the work downwards, draw the cotton in right hand
+underneath that in left hand, and work 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double,
+all turned upwards; fasten these stitches on 1st purl turned <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">[10]</a></span>
+downwards. In this pattern 1st of border pattern is thus completed;
+turn it downwards, 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, 1 purl, 1 plain,
+turn work downwards, 6 double, fastened on last purl of last
+pattern, turned up. Repeat from *. When the insertion is of
+sufficient length, work the other half in same manner, and fasten
+it on the 1st half by means of purl stitches between the 8 double
+stitches twice repeated.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>11.--<em>Tatted Insertion for Trimming Lingeries</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40,
+or crochet cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_11"><img alt="Pine Pattern Collar" src=
+"images/image011.jpg" width="416" height="179"></a></center>
+
+<p>This insertion consists of 2 rows of three-branched patterns
+which lie opposite each other, and are joined by slanting rows of
+knots. A coloured silk ribbon is drawn through these rows which
+join the patterns. Each of the 3 branches of 1 pattern consists of
+9 double, 1 purl, 9 double, and must be worked close to another.
+When the 3rd branch is completed, fasten another piece of cotton on
+to the middle branch. Work 12 double over this 2nd piece of cotton,
+and then work without the 2nd piece of cotton a 2nd three-branched
+pattern like the 1st.* Fasten the 2nd piece of cotton on to the
+middle branch of the just-finished pattern, work 12 double over it,
+then again a three-branched pattern; in this pattern as well as in
+the following ones, instead of working the <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_11" id="page_11">[11]</a></span> purl of the 1st branch,
+fasten it on to the purl of the 3rd branch of the preceding
+three-branched pattern of the <em>same</em> row, as can be seen in
+illustration. Repeat till the strip of insertion is sufficiently
+long.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>12.--<em>Circle in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_12"><img alt="Circle in Tatting." src=
+"images/image012.jpg" width="262" height="256"></a></center>
+
+<p>Work first 8 ovals, each composed of 5 double stitches, 3 purl
+divided one from the other by 4 double stitches, 5 double stitches;
+these ovals are joined together by the purl at the sides, then the
+circle is tightened as much as possible, and the cotton with which
+you are working is twisted round the ends of cotton that have been
+cut: the cotton is then fastened off nearly underneath.</p>
+
+<p>Begin a fresh small oval, composed of 12 double stitches, which
+should be fastened to the preceding oval after 3 double stitches
+(to the purl in the centre of the first oval), then fasten it again
+to the purl which joins together the first and the second oval;
+leave a space of about one-fourth of an inch, and work an oval
+composed of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, followed each by 2 double
+stitches, 4 double stitches. A very little farther <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">[12]</a></span> off make a
+very small oval, composed of 8 double stitches, which after the
+four first double stitches is joined to the centre purl of the
+second oval, leaving the same space between as before, make another
+oval of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, each followed by 2 double
+stitches, 4 double stitches; but the first purl is <em>missed</em>,
+because at this place the oval is joined to the fifth purl of the
+corresponding oval; once more leave a space of one-fourth of an
+inch, and repeat. At the end of the round the two ends of cotton
+are tied tightly together.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>13.--<em>Tatted Border with Beads</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Black purse silk, or, for white trimming, Messrs.
+Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 2; tatting-pin No. 3; 3
+hanks of beads No. 4 to the yard of border.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_13"><img alt="Tatted Border with Beads."
+src="images/image013.jpg" width="547" height="271"></a></center>
+
+<p>This border, edged with beads No. 4, is worked in middling-size
+purse silk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk.
+Before beginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take
+the place of purl stitches, and which are slipped in between two
+double stitches. When the row of stitches is of the length
+required, form the trefoil leaves, and sew a few beads over the
+places where they are joined. These trefoil leaves are made
+separately, and then sewn together.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_13" id=
+"page_13">[13]</a></span>
+
+<p>14.--<em>Insertion in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
+tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18
+or 20.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_14"><img alt="Insertion in Tatting." src=
+"images/image014.jpg" width="380" height="192"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from
+the reel, as a double thread is used, and commence by working 10
+double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double, draw up. Double thread: Putting
+the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 8 double,
+1 purl, 8 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10
+double, draw up. Repeat till the length required is worked, then
+cut off.</p>
+
+<p>For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the
+insertion, the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence
+by working--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> 10 double, join to the purl which connects
+the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double,
+draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> 10 double, join to the same purl as
+last--namely, the one connecting the first and second ovals of the
+piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two
+next ovals to the purl which <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_14" id="page_14">[14]</a></span> connects the two next in the
+piece already worked, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the
+purl of double thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only,
+this makes a pretty wide edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>15.--<em>Border in Tatting and Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40,
+and crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_15"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting and Crochet." src="images/image015.jpg" width=
+"316" height="202"></a></center>
+
+<p>This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops
+and treble stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as
+follows: Make a circle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8
+double. This circle is repeated at a distance of about
+three-fourths of an inch, only instead of the 1st purl each
+following circle must be fastened on to the last purl of the
+preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which must be
+finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double
+stitches over the thread which joins the circles. The number of
+stitches depends on the length and size of the cotton; work double
+stitches round the circles at the place where both ends meet. The
+outer row consists of treble stitches, which are worked with 1
+chain stitch between, missing 1 stitch under each chain. The
+scallops consist of the two following <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_15" id="page_15">[15]</a></span> rows:--1 double, with
+which the last and first purl of 2 circles are joined, 4 chain; in
+each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2 double
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1
+double, 3 long double, 1 double.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>16<em>and</em> 17.--<em>Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_16"><img alt=
+"Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting." src=
+"images/image016.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim
+of the bonnet. It is tied at the back under the chignon. The veil
+is of black silk net. The flowrets are tatted with black purse
+silk, and worked in appliqu&eacute; over the tulle. The veil is
+edged round with a tatted lace made <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_16" id="page_16">[16]</a></span> with the same silk. For the
+patterns and lace and instructions, see Nos. 18 and 19. No. 16
+shows the way in which the veil is worn upon the bonnet, and No. 17
+shows its shape when stretched out.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_17"><img alt="Shape of veil." src=
+"images/image017.jpg" width="529" height="256"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>18 <em>and</em> 19.--<em>Patterns in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 120
+for a white veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin No.
+2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_18"><img alt="Tatting Pattern for Veil(16)"
+src="images/image018.jpg" width="250" height="196"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_19"><img alt="Tatting Pattern for Veil(16)"
+src="images/image019.jpg" width="262" height="223"></a></center>
+
+<p>The patterns Nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil
+No. 16. They are sewn upon the net at regular distances.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_17" id=
+"page_17">[17]</a></span>
+
+<p>For working the pattern No. 18, make with black silk or white
+cotton 6 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl,
+then join the stitch into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next
+purl. Then 1 spot or Josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain
+stitches, carry the shuttle downwards through the loop, and draw
+the stitches close together; repeat 3 times more from *. Fasten the
+silk on to the next purl, and work a circle as follows:--8 times 2
+double, divided by 1 purl; fasten the silk on to the next purl,
+work again 1 spot, after which the silk is fastened, then work 2
+more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they are fastened on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1st purl. Fasten
+off the silk after the last circle.</p>
+
+<p>For No. 19 work 25 double, divided by 1 purl, join the stitches
+into a circle, knot the beginning and the end of the cotton
+together, cut off the ends at a short distance. Then work a smaller
+circle, consisting of 8 double, divided by 1 purl; at the place of
+the 1st purl fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 2nd
+purl of the large circle. The ends of this circle are knotted
+together and cut off in the same way. Then work a circle consisting
+of 11 double, fasten the silk on to the 20th purl of the large
+circle, work 5 double, and join the stitches into a circle. Then
+take the ends of the 3 circles, and work close fine stitches with
+silk round them, so as to form the stem. The completed pattern is
+sewn upon the net.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>20 <em>and</em> 21.--<em>Diamond Pattern and Circle in Tatting,
+for Trimming Linen Collars, Cuffs, &amp;c.</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No 30;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>20.--DIAMOND PATTERN.--</p>
+
+<p>Work, not far one from the other, four leaves, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">[18]</a></span> each
+composed of 5 double stitches, 7 rather long purl divided one from
+the other by 2 double stitches, 5 double stitches. Instead of
+making the 1st purl in each of the 3 next leaves, fasten the cotton
+to the last leaf of preceding leaf. Fasten off and cut the cotton;
+begin a fresh circle by 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided by 2
+double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the
+centre purl of one of the four leaves, and work a very small circle
+thus:--2 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the
+first circle, 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 2 double stitches; fasten
+the cotton * to the 6th purl of the leaf; work a larger circle
+thus:--2 double stitches fastened to the purl of the small circle,
+2 double stitches, 4 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more
+double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the second purl
+of the second leaf; work another small circle similar to that
+above-described; fasten the cotton to the third purl of the second
+leaf, then to the fourth purl of the same leaf, and repeat from *
+three times more, always fastening the first purl of the first
+circle you are working (each time you repeat the pattern) to the
+purl of the last small circle last worked; fasten off and cut the
+cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_20"><img alt="Diamond in Tatting." src=
+"images/image020.jpg" width="300" height="317"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_21"><img alt="Circle in Tatting." src=
+"images/image021.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>21.--CIRCLE.--</p>
+
+<p>Begin it in the centre by working a circle of 8 purl, rather
+long, divided one from the other by 2 double stitches. After you
+have fastened off and cut the cotton, work * one very small circle
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_19" id=
+"page_19">[19]</a></span> composed of 3 double stitches, 1 long
+purl, 3 double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the first
+purl of the circle, and repeat from * 7 times more, at regular
+distances. Fasten off and cut the cotton, and begin * a fresh
+circle of 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided each by 2 double
+stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl of
+the very small circle, and work, not far off, a circle of 2 double
+stitches, 2 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double
+stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl of the next small circle,
+and repeat from * 7 times more. Instead of making the first purl of
+the next large circle, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the
+small circle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>22.--<em>Border in Tatting and Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_22"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting and Crochet." src=
+"images/image022.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin this border with one of the smaller circles consisting of
+* 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; work a large circle
+at a short distance, 5 double, 4 times 1 purl divided by 2 double,
+5 double; close to this circle another as follows:--5 double,
+fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 5 times 2
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double; a third circle as
+follows:--5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding
+circle, 3 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">[20]</a></span> 1 purl, 5
+double; the cotton is fastened a short distance further on to the
+second purl of the first worked small circle, which must be turned
+downwards; then turn the work so that the three circles which are
+joined together are turned downwards. Work another small circle as
+follows at the distance of two-fifths of an inch:--4 double, 1
+purl, 4 double, leave again an interval of about two-fifths of an
+inch, and repeat from * till the lace is long enough; but in
+working the following figures, consisting of three circles, the 1st
+circle must be fastened on to the last purl of the 3rd circle at
+the place of the 1st purl. Complete the tatting with the 2
+following rows of crochet:--* 1 slip stitch in the purl of one of
+the small circles turned upwards, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the
+next purl, 4 chain; repeat from *. In the following row work 1
+double in every stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>23.--<em>Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_23"><img alt=
+"Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch." src=
+"images/image023.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This insertion forms a very pretty standing-up collar when
+worked with fine cotton and a coloured ribbon drawn through. It
+consists of 2 rows <span class="newpage"><a name="page_21" id=
+"page_21">[21]</a></span> of 3 branched figures turned opposite one
+another, which are worked separately and then joined into a row.
+Work 9 times as follows:--2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, * draw into a
+circle and * work at a short distance a 2nd circle as follows:--2
+double fastened on to the last purl of the 1st circle, 8 times 2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat once more from *, knot together
+the two ends of the cotton, and fasten them on the wrong side. One
+figure is thus completed; each following figure is fastened on to
+the preceding one on the middle purl of a circle (see
+illustration). When a sufficient number of such figures have been
+worked, work a 2nd row of them in the same manner, and fasten from
+illustration each middle circle of one figure on to the
+corresponding circle of the 1st row. The circles filled with lace
+stitch are worked when the 2 rows are completed from illustration
+in the empty places between 4 patterns; work first 3 double, fasten
+them on to a purl on the side of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double,
+fasten them on to a purl of the next leaf, repeat 5 times more from
+*, work 3 double, join the stitches into a circle, but not too
+close, so that the purls keep their natural position; cut off the
+cotton, and fasten the two ends on the wrong side. The lace stitch
+inside of these circles is worked with fine crochet cotton; the
+pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>24.--<em>Insertion in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>Begin by working separately a sufficient number of small
+rosettes, each composed of six ovals of double stitches and purl.
+These ovals are worked first in a straight row, then they are
+joined into a circle and united in the centre by button-hole
+stitches. The rosettes are joined together with fine cotton. The
+crochet border is then worked on either <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_22" id="page_22">[22]</a></span> side in chain stitches
+and treble crochet, as seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_24"><img alt="Insertion in Tatting." src=
+"images/image024.jpg" width="463" height="256"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>25.--<em>Centre of a Tatted Couvrette</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20,
+or crochet cotton No. 1; tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>This illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full
+size, and measuring 12 inches across. Separate rosettes like the
+pattern may be joined together with smaller ones, and form a very
+pretty couvrette. The pattern is worked in rounds. Begin the
+rosette with a circle, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1
+purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Take up another shuttle, and work
+over the cotton on it, fasten the end on the last double of the
+circle and work over it, beginning close to the circle, 6 plain, 1
+circle like the 1st worked with the 1st shuttle, and which is
+fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at the place of the 1st
+purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately till you have 7
+circles divided by 6 plain stitches. Draw up very tightly the
+cotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette,
+which is closed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of
+the first and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_23" id=
+"page_23">[23]</a></span> last circle. Both the ends of the cotton
+over which you have worked are knotted together. For the 2nd round,
+fasten the cotton on one shuttle on the middle purl of a circle,
+work a circle like those of the 1st round, take up the 2nd shuttle,
+and work on exactly as in the 1st round, only work 8 plain between
+the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. The 2nd round
+consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must be
+fastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of
+the preceding round. The 3rd and following rounds are worked in the
+same manner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the
+couvrette quite flat. In the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles.
+Fasten the cotton well after each round.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_25"><img alt="Centre of a Tatted Couvrette."
+src="images/image025.jpg" width="363" height="359"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_24" id=
+"page_24">[24]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>26.--<em>Tatted Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_26"><img alt="Tatted Lace." src=
+"images/image026.jpg" width="481" height="133"></a></center>
+
+<p>This very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they
+were slightly gathered. It must be worked with tatting cotton. Each
+scallop consists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5
+purled stitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the
+1st and last stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd
+similar scallop at a short distance from the 1st. But in the
+following scallops fasten each to the last purl of the preceding
+scallop instead of working the 1st purl.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>27.--<em>Tatted Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50
+or 80; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_27"><img alt="Tatted Lace." src=
+"images/image027.jpg" width="351" height="215"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. Work with 2
+threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in the
+right hand. Work first the outer scallops of the lace.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_25" id=
+"page_25">[25]</a></span>
+
+<p>Fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided
+by 1 purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards,
+fasten the cotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back
+over the same row, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you
+work, 9 double divided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which
+you work on the next purl of the 1st row after every double stitch.
+This forms 1 scallop. * Turn the work downwards (that is, the purl
+stitch must be turned downwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1
+purled stitch: this is the straight row between 2 outer scallops of
+the lace. Then work a scallop like the preceding one, fastening it
+from illustration after the first row on the middle one of the 9
+outer purl of the preceding scallop, with the cotton over which you
+work; repeat from * till the lace is long enough, and fasten the
+cotton. Knot both ends together again, fasten the cotton over which
+you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make 9 double, 1
+short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the row is
+turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2
+middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing
+the cotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as
+to form a loop, draw the cotton over which you work through this
+loop and draw up the latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over
+which you work on to the short purl worked after 9 double, turn the
+work so that the outer scallops of the lace are turned downwards,
+10 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the first purl
+of the next scallop, repeat from *, and fasten the cotton. After
+having fastened both ends together again, turn the work the right
+side upwards and the outer scallops upwards also, fasten the cotton
+over which you work on to the short purl which is under the first
+loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_26" id="page_26">[26]</a></span> double, fasten the
+cotton over which you work on the purl under the next loop, and
+repeat from * till the lace is completed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>28.--<em>Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s French embroidery
+cotton No. 60; square netting.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_28"><img alt=
+"Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting" src="images/image028.jpg"
+width="462" height="297"></a></center>
+
+<p>The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted
+grounding over a mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The
+collar is ornamented round the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work
+a straight strip of netting for the grounding; begin with 2
+stitches, work 18 rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 at the
+end of each row, so that the last row has 19 holes; work 1 row
+without increasing; then continue to work with the same number of
+stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and decreasing 1 at
+the end of the other. When the strip is sufficiently <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">[27]</a></span> long, work
+1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form the side by
+making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each, cast off
+the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on the
+needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick
+cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning is
+completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6
+double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6
+double, draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving
+one-fifth of an inch between the first and last stitch; work a
+second scallop at a short distance from the first, and so on; every
+scallop is fastened on to the preceding one after the first 3
+double stitches. Work a row of double overcast stitch between the
+darned netting and the tatted lace; work this row over the cotton
+tracing, marking the outline of the collar on the grounding and
+over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work also a row of
+double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a
+little if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close
+to the row of overcast stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>29.--<em>Mignardise and Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+fine mignardise braid.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_29"><img alt="Mignardise and Tatting." src=
+"images/image029.jpg" width="268" height="292"></a></center>
+
+<p>Patterns formed of mignardise and tatting are of quite new
+style, and look very pretty. The insertion is easy to work by the
+following process:--Make first a circle, as follows: 1 plain
+stitch, 2 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 plain;
+fasten the cotton on to one side of the mignardise, at the distance
+of about five-eighths of an <span class="newpage"><a name="page_28"
+id="page_28">[28]</a></span> inch, by taking 2 loops of it
+together; work a second circle at a short distance from the first,
+and so on. When the strip of insertion is sufficiently long, work
+in the same manner on the other side of the mignardise. This kind
+of work is destined to become very popular, and nothing can be more
+light and graceful than the union of mignardise and tatting.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>30.--<em>Linen Bag for Cotton</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine linen, 6 inches square; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_30"><img alt="Linen Bag for Cotton." src=
+"images/image030.jpg" width="312" height="247"></a></center>
+
+<p>The bag seen in illustration No. 30 is meant to keep the cotton
+for working a couvrette; it consists of a round piece, measuring 6
+inches across, which is hemmed all round, and trimmed with a tatted
+lace. It is drawn together at top.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>31.--<em>Tatting Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_29" id=
+"page_29">[29]</a></span>
+
+<p>The insertion shown in illustration No. 31 is composed in two
+similar halves. Begin the first in the following way:--10 double, 1
+purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 10 double, join the stitches into a circle,
+and work a second similar circle at a distance of one-third of an
+inch; instead of the 1st purl, draw the cotton through the 2nd purl
+of the first-worked circle; leave an interval of one-eighth of an
+inch, and repeat the two rounds till the insertion is sufficiently
+long. Then tat round the pieces of cotton which join the two
+rounds, work round the longest 10 double, and round the shortest 4
+double, inserting the shuttle alternately once upwards and once
+downwards, but for the rest proceeding as in the common button-hole
+stitch. When the first half is completed, work the second in the
+same way, and fasten it on to the first with the purl.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_31"><img alt="Tatting Insertion." src=
+"images/image031.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>32.--<em>Tatting Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_32"><img alt="Tatting Insertion." src=
+"images/image032.jpg" width="314" height="213"></a></center>
+
+<p>The pretty effect of the insertion shown in illustration No. 32
+is obtained by means of longer and shorter purl. Work as
+follows:--Join 9 double into a circle, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1
+long purl, 4 double *. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_30" id=
+"page_30">[30]</a></span> After an interval of five-eighths of an
+inch, begin the large figure of the pattern: 2 double, 1 small
+purl, 2 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the small
+circle, 2 double, drawn through the 1st purl of the same circle, 2
+double, 1 small purl, 2 double, 1 long purl, 2 double, 1 small
+purl, 2 double, repeat 6 times more from *, and draw up. After an
+interval of five-eighths of an inch comes another small circle: 4
+double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the large figure,
+3 double, draw the cotton through the next long purl of the same
+figure, 2 double, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double.
+Repeat the pattern for the length of insertion required. The
+threads which join the small circles are worked over with 7 double
+in the manner described above, only the cotton at the principal
+figure must be left loose the width of a straw, so as to imitate a
+long purl. Complete the insertion from illustration by tatting
+round the small circles of 16 double on the other side (but in the
+contrary direction), form no purl, but draw the cotton through the
+long purl of the large figure; the threads which join the 2 circles
+are likewise drawn through the middle long purl of the large
+figure; this thread is then tatted over with 7 double, like the
+opposite outer edge.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>33.--<em>Tatted Square or Diamond</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: If for couvrettes, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+tatting cotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 4; tatting-pin No. 3.
+For d'oyleys, tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2. For
+headdresses, tatting cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>The square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked
+in 3 rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with
+purl. Each pattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and
+each branch consists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4
+branches of one <span class="newpage"><a name="page_31" id=
+"page_31">[31]</a></span> pattern are completed, cut off the
+cotton, and fasten both ends together so as to form a small circle
+in the centre. Then work a second pattern, which is fastened on to
+the first and second branches of the first pattern, instead of
+working the purl stitch; work a third pattern, which is fastened in
+the same manner on to the second pattern. Then work 2 more rows
+exactly the same as can be seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_33"><img alt="Tatted Square." src=
+"images/image033.jpg" width="231" height="255"></a></center>
+
+<p>*For the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first
+purl of the first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2
+double, 4 double, draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton
+again on to the same purl of the first pattern *, and work the
+following scallop at a short distance:--4 double fastened on the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 10 purl divided by 2 double, 4
+double, draw up the stitch, leaving an interval of two-fifths of an
+inch between the first and the last; fasten the cotton on to the
+next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twice more from *, and
+continue to repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_32" id=
+"page_32">[32]</a></span>
+
+<p>34.--<em>Tatted Rosette</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40,
+or crochet cotton No. 60.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_34"><img alt="Tatted Rosette." src=
+"images/image034.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This rosette is very pretty for trimming <em>lingeries</em>; it
+is worked with very fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the
+centre and work one circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl,
+then 1 purled stitch. Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and
+work the 2nd round: 1 small circle, consisting of 6 double divided
+by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle
+circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round: Fasten the cotton on the
+middle purl of the first circle of the preceding round, * work at a
+short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a
+circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance on to the middle
+purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and repeat in
+rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>35.--<em>Rosette in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_35"><img alt="Rosette in Tatting." src=
+"images/image035.jpg" width="268" height="289"></a></center>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches
+into a circle and fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work
+over the cotton on this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton
+together * and work 5 plain, <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_33" id="page_33">[33]</a></span> fasten the cotton over which
+you work on a purl of the circle which is completed, and which must
+be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7 times more from *,
+and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of the shuttles the small
+circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a purl of the
+second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 6
+double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second round,
+work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the same
+distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton
+neatly.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>36.--<em>Diamond in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials:Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_36"><img alt="Diamond in Tatting." src=
+"images/image036.jpg" width="274" height="268"></a></center>
+
+<p>This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &amp;c.,
+when worked with fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns
+separately, as <span class="newpage"><a name="page_34" id=
+"page_34">[34]</a></span> follows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3
+double, 6 double, join the stitches into a circle, work close to
+this circle a second one consisting of 6 double fastened on the
+last purl of the 1st circle, 4 double, 2 purl divided by 4 double,
+6 double; then a 3rd circle consisting of 6 double fastened on the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3
+double, 7 double. Take a second shuttle, fasten the cotton on the
+end of the cotton of the 1st circle, throw the cotton of the 1st
+shuttle over the fingers of the left hand, and work with this
+cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the right hand. Work
+5 double, and then one circle as follows with the cotton in the
+left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the 3rd of
+the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5
+double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the
+cotton on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double,
+5 double, then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6
+double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double
+fastened on 1st purl of the circle worked at the beginning, 8
+double; then again with two shuttles 5 double. Fasten the cotton on
+the piece of cotton before the 5 double worked with two shuttles,
+so that the stitches worked over two shuttles form a circle, and
+cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns have been worked,
+work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4 leaves
+touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3
+double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf
+is fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl.
+Then work first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with
+which the corner patterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl
+of one corner pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on
+the corresponding purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1
+purl, 7 double, join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton
+on to the same purl to <span class="newpage"><a name="page_35" id=
+"page_35">[35]</a></span> which the cotton has already been
+fastened, carry the latter on to the next purl of the same corner
+pattern, fasten it, then work three more circles like the first,
+which are fastened on to each preceding circle, at the place of the
+first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl of the centre
+pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side of the
+same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite
+direction are worked in the same manner. When the square is
+completed, draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on
+to the other side of the square along the cotton which joins the
+circles together.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>37.--<em>Tatting for Cap Crown</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100; tatting-pin No. 1.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_37"><img alt="Tatting for Cap Crown." src=
+"images/image037.jpg" width="306" height="191"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one
+described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &amp;c.
+The size of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the
+pattern. The pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It
+consists of eight-branched rosettes joined together with small
+circles. Each rosette is worked as follows: Work 8 loops or
+branches close to each other, consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7
+double; fasten both ends of the <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_36" id="page_36">[36]</a></span> cotton together, and cut
+them off. Each of the small circles which joins the rosettes
+together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double. It is
+easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined
+together by means of the purl stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>38 <em>and</em> 39.--<em>Cap in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100
+tatting-pin No. 1.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_38"><img alt="Cap in Tatting." src=
+"images/image038.jpg" width="302" height="434"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_37" id=
+"page_37">[37]</a></span>
+
+<p>This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged
+all round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also.
+The cap is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue
+velvet. A narrow velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight
+open-work edge of the lace, as can be seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_39"><img alt="Border for Cap No. 38." src=
+"images/image039.jpg" width="372" height="262"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 39.--Border for Cap.--The upper part of the border consists
+of 4 rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an
+inch from each other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3
+double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3
+rows each circle is fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2
+circles in the 1st row, instead of working the middle purl, the
+cotton between 2 circles in the last row must only be two-fifths of
+an inch long. Then work a certain number of six-branched rosettes,
+each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double. Each rosette
+is fastened on to every other circle of the 1st row, as can be seen
+in illustration. The border is completed as <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">[38]</a></span>
+follows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch
+fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain,
+6 purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the
+lace so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on
+to the purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double,
+7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the
+purl of the next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1
+double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat
+once more from *, work 1 double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1
+double, and repeat from * to the end of the lace.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>40.--<em>Lace in Tatting and Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_40"><img alt="Lace in Tatting and Crochet."
+src="images/image040.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of
+the tatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the
+circles must be drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4
+double, 8 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle
+a second one; 5 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding
+circle, 8 times 2 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_39" id=
+"page_39">[39]</a></span> double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl 5
+double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first,
+but instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of
+the preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and
+repeat from * till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is
+worked in crochet. Take the fine crochet cotton and work the
+straight row at the top to join the patterns together. Crochet 1
+double in the 3 first and last purl of the first and last circle of
+one pattern, then a sufficient number of double stitches under the
+piece of cotton which joins 2 circles. At the place where the
+circles are drawn together, join the two pieces of cotton (the
+beginning and the end) in such a manner that the top of the lace
+forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd row consists of 1
+treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Then work
+on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches divided by
+chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of the
+circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st
+circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1
+treble, 3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st
+treble only so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd
+treble is completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain,
+5 treble divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following
+purl, which are cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2
+treble divided by 3 chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain,
+1 long treble with which you must join the last purl and the first
+one of the next pattern, 1 chain; repeat from *. The next row
+consists of small scallops worked round the chain stitch scallops
+of the preceding row; work in each 1 double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1
+double in the first and last chain stitch of every pattern.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_40" id=
+"page_40">[40]</a></span>
+
+<p>41.--<em>Insertion in Tatting and Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+crochet cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_41"><img alt=
+"Insertion in Tatting and Crochet." src=
+"images/image041.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. Work with the
+cotton on one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the following
+manner:--Knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double
+divided by a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st
+and 3rd purl must be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one
+two-fifths of an inch; 4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1
+purl two-fifths of an inch long; repeat from * till the strip of
+insertion is sufficiently long. Then work a similar row of tatting,
+and join the two rows before working the 1 long purl, by fastening
+the cotton on the corresponding long purl of the 1st row, so that
+the 2 rows are joined closely together, and the purl stitches of
+either are turned outwards. At the top and bottom of the tatting
+work the 3 following rows of crochet:--* 1 double in the middle one
+of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3 following
+long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row. 8
+double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of the preceding
+row under 3 chain. The 3rd row consists of treble stitches in <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">[41]</a></span>
+every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Lastly, the leaves
+are worked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long
+purl of a pattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross
+stitches between the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine
+cotton.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>42.--<em>Purse in Tatting and Beads</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glac&eacute;
+silk; a steel clasp with chain.</p>
+
+<p>This purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. The
+beads are threaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over
+another piece of the same. Begin each of the second halves of the
+purse with the circle in the centre, which consists of 1 purled
+stitch, 1 purl (all the purl of this circle are three-tenths of an
+inch long, and are covered with six beads, which must be drawn up
+close together before working the purl), 12 double divided by 1
+purl. Join the stitches into a circle by knotting together the two
+ends of the silk.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Begin again and work one of the small
+circles; * 2 double, draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short
+purl without beads, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten
+the silk on the purl of the middle circle, so as to let it come
+between the 3rd and 4th bead of the 6 beads on that purl; 2 double,
+1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 2 double, 1 bead after
+each, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle, draw up 2 beads;
+work a larger circle without fastening the silk belonging to the
+smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4
+beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl, 3
+double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double,
+1 bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large
+circle <span class="newpage"><a name="page_42" id=
+"page_42">[42]</a></span> and repeat from *. Each following small
+circle must be fastened on the next purl of the circle which forms
+the centre; they are also fastened on to each other, instead of
+working the 1st purl, by fastening the piece of silk over which you
+work on the preceding small circle; in the larger circles, instead
+of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the piece <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">[43]</a></span> of silk
+must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, so that
+it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. At the end of the round,
+the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off.</p>
+
+
+
+<center><a name="image_42"><img alt="Purse in Tatting and Beads."
+src="images/image042.jpg" width="412" height="480"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1
+short purl, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the
+middle purl of the 1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1
+bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead
+after each, 1 double; join the stitches into a circle, and work at
+a short distance a 2nd circle; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1
+double, fastened on the last purl of the just-finished circle of
+this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the
+purl of the preceding round which is between 2 circles; the loop
+must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead after each; 1
+double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1
+double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *,
+then fasten the ends.</p>
+
+<p>When two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet
+glac&eacute; silk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew
+on the clasp. A round of large circles edges the purse round the
+outside. The 1st of these circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead
+after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after
+each, 1 double. Work a 2nd circle at a short distance from the 1st:
+* 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the purl of the
+1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1
+purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; leave a
+short interval, and repeat from * till a sufficient number of
+circles have been made. The last purl is not worked in the last
+circle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_44" id=
+"page_44">[44]</a></span> 43.--<em>Insertion in Tatting and
+Crochet.</em>
+
+<p>&gt;Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+40; crochet cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_43"><img alt=
+"Insertion in Tatting and Crochet." src="images/image043.jpg"
+width="379" height="355"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is composed of leaves and flowers. Each of the six
+leaves forming a circle is composed of 4 double, 2 purl, separated
+by 2 double, 4 double (the first and last purl of each leaf must be
+joined in the manner before explained), and the centre of each
+circle forms a wheel. The flower has four leaves: each leaf
+consists of 6 double, II purl, separated each by 1 double, and
+again 6 double; each leaf is filled up with button-hole stitches in
+fine cotton. To form the circle in the centre of this flower, turn
+several times the thread which joins the leaves, and work
+button-hole stitches round it. Join the flowers and the circles by
+knotting them together, or by making 1 purl longer than the others,
+and by drawing the next figure through. The crochet border on each
+side of the tatting consists of six rows, which are plainly seen in
+the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_45" id=
+"page_45">[45]</a></span>
+
+<p>44.--<em>Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20
+and 40.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_44"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch." src="images/image044.jpg"
+width="563" height="391"></a></center>
+
+<p>This mixture of tatting and lace stitch is a style of work not
+only entirely new, but very pretty and effective when cotton of
+very different sizes is used. The tatting is begun with a row of
+circles two-thirds of an inch distant from each other; each circle
+consists of 13 stitches of plain tatting. Fasten a 2nd row to the
+1st, and a 3rd to the 2nd, by working a circle of 13 stitches of
+plain tatting at one-third of an inch distance, * then at the same
+distance; fasten the cotton on the next circle of the preceding
+row, work a circle at the same distance again, and repeat from *.
+The cotton is fastened on the circles by drawing it through the
+circle with a crochet-needle, so as to form a loop, and then
+drawing it out of the loop. Take care to keep the distance between
+2 circles always the same. Between the circles of the 3rd row draw
+another piece of cotton, by fastening the cotton on each <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">[46]</a></span>
+circle of the 3rd row at distances of two-thirds of an inch. Then
+work the lower edge of the border in the following way:--1 small
+spot called a <em>Josephine knot</em> (for which work 5 stitches of
+plain tatting, draw the cotton downwards through the loop which
+fastens the stitches, and draw up the whole), fasten the cotton
+between the next two circles of the 3rd row, * and a little further
+make a spot consisting of 8 stitches of single tatting, close to
+this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purl divided by 2 double, 3
+double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plain tatting, turn the
+2 last spots so as to make their round sides come opposite one
+another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 next circles of
+the 3rd row. Then a little further off work 1 small spot (5
+stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double
+fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl
+divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plain
+stitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of
+the 3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to
+the corresponding purl of the preceding one. On the other long
+side, the border is completed by 2 rows of crochet. The 1st row is
+formed by working 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2
+circles of the 1st row, with 5 chain stitches between.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch
+after every treble. The strip of insertion is then tacked on a
+piece of cardboard or oil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked
+between the circles, as is seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>45.--<em>Tatted Rosette.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30
+for large rosette, No. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie--cravats,
+caps, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_47" id=
+"page_47">[47]</a></span> handkerchiefs, &amp;c. The raised pattern
+in the centre consists of 4 rounds, consisting of 5 circles each,
+which are sewn together and then fastened on the rosette. The 5
+circles of each round must be worked close to each other: after
+working the last circle of each round, knot the beginning and end
+of the cotton together. Each circle of the smallest round has 9
+double, the circles of the next round each 15, the circles of the
+following one 21, and the circles of the last and largest round 27
+double stitches. When these circles have been sewn on one to
+another as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4
+double, 1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1
+double. The purls of this circle are fastened on to the circles of
+the next round of the rosette. Fasten the cotton on to the next
+purl of the middle circle, and work a circle as follows:--4 double,
+1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4
+double, 1 purl, 4 double. Repeat 9 times more from *, but now,
+instead of working the 1st purl of every circle, fasten it on to
+the last purl of the preceding circle. Then fasten the cotton. For
+the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds, fasten the
+cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round,
+and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1
+purl, then 4 double.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_48" id=
+"page_48">[48]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_45"><img alt="Tatted Rosette." src=
+"images/image045.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Then fasten a second thread on to the same purl on which the
+just completed circle has been fastened, and over which all the
+scallops are to be worked. Work over it 5 double, fastened on to
+the last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double,
+1 purl, 5 double. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the
+next circle of the preceding round, and repeat from * till the
+round is completed; but in working these circles, instead of the
+first purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding
+scallop. Lastly, the raised pattern is sewn on.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>46.--<em>Linen Bag for Tatting, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting
+cotton No. 30 or 40; tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_46"><img alt=
+"Linen Bag for Tatting, &amp;c." src="images/image046.jpg" width=
+"338" height="387"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work
+from being soiled before it is completed. The bag is drawn together
+round the top. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_49" id=
+"page_49">[49]</a></span> Its size depends upon what you wish to
+put into it. The original pattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3
+inches wide; it is hemmed round the top, and trimmed with a narrow
+tatted lace, consisting of large and small circles.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>47.--<em>Tatted Border.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_47"><img alt="Tatted Border." src=
+"images/image047.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the
+following manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double,
+1 purl, 2 double; draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat
+the circle at a very short distance, till the border is long
+enough; but instead of working the first purl of each circle, you
+must join the circle to the preceding one; the purl on the sides of
+the circle must therefore be longer than that in the middle.</p>
+
+<p>For the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left
+side with the cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the
+cotton in the right hand, which is also to be held between the
+thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Then work in the following
+way:--2 double, then 1 circle consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3
+double; to form this circle, let the cotton in the left-hand
+shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop round the left hand with
+the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. Then take up again the
+left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middle purl of the
+1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through the <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">[50]</a></span> purl
+like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand through
+this loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle
+purl of the next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1
+circle joined on the middle purl of the following circle; repeat
+from *.</p>
+
+<p>The upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in the
+following manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st
+circle of the 1st row of tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding
+row, 1 purl (3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of
+the preceding row under it; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>48.--<em>Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials for trimmings: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting
+cotton No. 20; tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3. For
+couvrettes, crochet cotton No. 4.</p>
+
+<p>This rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty
+trimming for articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes;
+if used for the former, they must be worked with very fine cotton.
+The centre of the rosette is formed of an embroidered raised
+pattern worked in <em>point de minute</em>; round this centre there
+are small circles worked in button-hole stitch; the embroidery is
+worked with knitting cotton, the circles with crochet cotton.
+Before beginning the circles, make a circle consisting of a
+foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten the
+button-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain
+work 1 double, then fasten the cotton. In the 2nd round of these
+circles fasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet
+circle. Work 1 round of open-work treble stitch in the double
+stitch of the crochet circle, work in tatting the border of the
+rosette as follows in 1 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_51" id=
+"page_51">[51]</a></span> round:--* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double,
+fastened on to 1 chain stitch between 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1
+purl, 2 double,; join these stitches into a circle; turn the work
+so that the wrong side lies upwards, and work a second larger
+circle at a short distance consisting of 4 double, 5 purl divided
+by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeat from *. The smaller
+circles must be fastened after every other treble stitch; the
+larger and smaller circles must be fastened above one another at
+the place of the 1st purl.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_48"><img alt=
+"Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting." src="images/image048.jpg"
+width="478" height="442"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>49--<em>Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page__52" id=
+"page__52">[52]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_49"><img alt=
+"Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting." src="images/image049.jpg"
+width="405" height="429"></a></center>
+
+<p>The diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is
+commenced in the centre. For each of the four centre leaves work 6
+double stitches, 6 purl divided one from the other by 3 double
+stitches, then 6 more double stitches. Fasten off the cotton, cut
+it, and begin a fresh leaf <span class="newpage"><a name="page__53"
+id="page__53">[53]</a></span> by working 2 double stitches, 10 purl
+divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, then 2 more double
+stitches. (This small leaf forms one of the corners of the diamond
+pattern.) Fasten the cotton to the fourth purl of one of the four
+centre leaves, and work another leaf similar to the preceding. Join
+this leaf by its two centre purl to the two last purl of the corner
+leaf (see illustration). After two more similar leaves, work one
+corner leaf, and continue the pattern in the same manner until you
+come back to the first corner leaf, then fasten off, and cut the
+cotton. Place the diamond pattern upon the point of the collar, and
+cut away the material under it; fold back the edges, sew them
+neatly, and cover them with the following crochet edging:--Make
+alternately 2 chain, 1 purl (the latter composed of 3 chain joined
+together by 1 slip stitch). It will be easy to work the circles in
+tatting from our illustration; they form an elegant border round
+the collar. We shall merely say that the centre circle is always
+worked separately, and that the cotton is fastened on afresh to
+work the eight outer leaves. The upper edge of this border is
+worked in crochet. It is composed of two rows--one formed of chain
+stitches, and a few slip stitches worked in the purl of the circles
+in tatting, the other worked in open treble crochet.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>50.--<em>Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This cravat consists of a strip of cambric muslin 1 yard long, 6
+inches wide, hemmed on both sides. The ends of the cravat are
+ornamented with patterns in tatting, worked with tatting cotton No.
+100. A rosette in tatting is sewn on in the middle of the end of
+the cravat. The end of the cravat is pointed, lined on the wrong
+side with a strip of the same material as the cravat, and edged
+with a tatted lace.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_54" id=
+"page_54">[54]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_50"><img alt="Cravat in Muslin and Tatting."
+src="images/image050.jpg" width="273" height="461"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin the rosette in the centre with a circle worked in the
+following manner:--1 double, 1 purl, * twice 2 double divided by 1
+purl, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, twice 4 double divided by 1 purl, 1
+purl, * 3 double, 1 purl; repeat from * to * once more, 2 double.
+At the beginning of the 2nd round fasten the cotton on the 1st purl
+of the 1st round, and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_55" id=
+"page_55">[55]</a></span> work as follows:--* 1 circle consisting
+of 10 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 10 double; fasten the
+cotton on to the next purl, 1 circle like the preceding one,
+fastened on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of 9 double, 1
+purl, 9 double fastened on to the next purl, 2 circles consisting
+each of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; between the 2 fasten the cotton
+on to the next purl; 2 similar circles fastened also on to the next
+purl, 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, fastened
+on to the next circle; repeat once more from *, and fasten off the
+cotton. Fasten on the cotton afresh for the 3rd round, worked in
+the following manner:--* 1 circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5
+double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl; 1 purl, 5
+double, 1 purl, 6 double; fasten the cotton at a short distance on
+to the 1st purl of the 2nd round, 1 circle worked as follows:--5
+double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle of this
+round, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1
+purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on to the next purl of
+the 2nd circle of the 2nd round; 6 similar circles, between each of
+which the cotton is to be fastened on to the nearest purl of a
+circle of the 2nd round; repeat once more from *, and knot the
+beginning and the end of the cotton together. When completed, the
+rosette is sewn on the material of the cravat with button-hole
+stitches, taking up one purl with each stitch; the muslin is cut
+away underneath the rosette; then work a round of knotted stitches
+underneath the button-hole stitch. For the lace, make a row of
+circles one-fifth of an inch distant from each other, consisting
+each of 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double
+divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 6 double, which are
+fastened together by the purl of each circle, and are sewn on the
+cravat over the cotton between the circles in overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_56" id=
+"page_56">[56]</a></span>
+
+<p>51--<em>Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_51"><img alt="Cravat in Muslin and Tatting."
+src="images/image051.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The end of this cravat is formed by a long rosette or
+<em>m&eacute;daillon</em> in tatting. This rosette is likewise
+begun in the centre, and consists of 4 rounds, the 2 first of which
+are worked like those of the rosette in <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_57" id="page_57">[57]</a></span> illustration 50, with
+this difference only, that in the 2nd round each of the circles
+nearest to the top and to the bottom of the rosette consists of 8
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 3rd round: * 1 circle,
+consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double
+divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fastened on
+to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the preceding round; 1 circle
+as follows:--5 double, the last of which is fastened on to the last
+purl of the preceding round, 4 double, 1 purl, twice 2 double
+divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on
+the next purl of the preceding round; 8 more similar circles,
+between each of which the cotton is fastened on to the next purl of
+the preceding round; repeat from * once more, fasten the two ends
+of the cotton together. 4th round: * Fasten on the cotton afresh
+with a circle consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6
+times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 7
+double, fastened on to the middle purl of the 1st circle of the
+preceding round; a 2nd circle worked in the same way, only instead
+of working the last purl, fasten the cotton on to the last purl of
+the preceding circle, then on to the 1st circle of the preceding
+round; 10 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is
+fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round,
+and then on to the 2nd purl of the larger circle at the bottom of
+the medallion; repeat once more from *. The pattern is sewn on the
+cravat with button-hole stitches, as can be seen in the
+illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>52.--<em>Border in Crochet and Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+26.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_052"><img alt=
+"Border in Crochet and Tatting." src="images/image052.jpg" width=
+"387" height="319"></a></center>
+
+<p>This border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves,
+which are joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">[58]</a></span>
+border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the
+border forms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles
+is begun in the centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is
+formed by passing the thread over the back of the hand, and then
+passing the shuttle upwards between the forefinger and second
+finger, and drawing it up, then work a stitch of plain tatting;
+this completes the double stitch, and whenever so many double
+stitches are directed it means the 2 stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9
+times, join the stitch into a circle, work at a small distance * a
+smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl, divided each by 2
+double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the purl of the
+first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each following
+circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">[59]</a></span>
+after 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the
+thread must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which
+forms the centre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the
+thread are knotted together. For the tatted border, make at short
+distances 1 loop with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having
+worked a sufficient number of such loops, wind another thread round
+the thread between the loops, turning always 1 loop on the right
+side and 1 on the left. Now begin the crochet part with the leaves.
+Make for each of these a foundation chain of 12 stitches, crochet
+back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch but one, 1 double
+in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following 7 chain, 2
+treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2 treble in
+the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on the
+other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way;
+then 3 double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the
+whole leaf with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double
+in each stitch of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble
+stitch. In working this last round, the circles must be joined to
+the leaves by taking up the purl stitch of the circle before
+casting off the corresponding double stitch of the leaf; then work
+the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles and leaves with a row of
+chain stitches, on which a row of double is worked. Then comes the
+border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of chain stitches,
+joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of treble,
+work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely in
+chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the
+loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3
+chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain,
+miss 1 under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must
+be fastened on the border, as seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_60" id=
+"page_60">[60]</a></span>
+
+<p>53.--<em>Diamond in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
+tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_053"><img alt="Diamond in Tatting." src=
+"images/image053.jpg" width="198" height="268"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from
+the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working 5
+double stitches, 1 purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> Putting the thread attached to the reel
+round the left hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them
+tightly.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval,
+then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches tightly worked.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3
+double, join to next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5
+times) 4 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_61" id=
+"page_61">[61]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+
+<p><em>6th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 7 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th oval:</em> 5 double, join to last purl of last oval,
+then (3 double, 1 purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 7 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval,
+then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em>12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_62" id=
+"page_62">[62]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>12th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3
+double, join to 1st purl of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 7 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at
+the back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other.</p>
+
+<p>The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with
+lacework, using fine sewing-cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty
+trimming for the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed
+with single diamonds.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>54.--<em>Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100, tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord.</p>
+
+<p>This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very
+effective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working
+for each of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one
+from the other by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches.
+When the third leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton.
+Now take, instead of the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of
+extremely fine cord, over which work with the cotton from the reel
+the following row of stitches:--1 double stitch, fasten the cotton
+to the centre purl of one of the three leaves, * 2 double stitches,
+5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 3 double
+stitches, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of the nearest leaf,
+2 double stitches, 9 purl divided one from the other by 3 double
+stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to the same purl as before.
+Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut the cord and the
+cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each composed of 12
+plain stitches placed quite close together (these form <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">[63]</a></span> one of the
+corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from the
+other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is
+fastened to one purl of the row of <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_64" id="page_64">[64]</a></span> stitches worked over the
+cord (see illustration). Cut away from the collar the piece of
+linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold in the edges
+and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up the space
+with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circle composed
+of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2 double
+stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more and
+work over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle
+composed of 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other
+by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord
+again and work over it 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2
+double stitches, 3 double stitches. Fasten the cotton to the third
+purl (reckoning from the last) of the second circle worked without
+cord; 3 double stitches fastened to the fourth purl of the row of
+stitches worked over the cord (see illustration), 2 double
+stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double
+stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3 double stitches
+fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches, 3 purl
+divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten the
+cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the
+beginning), 4 double stitches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of
+the border a crochet edging similar to that round the diamond
+pattern of collar No. 49. For the point of the border, at the
+corner of the collar, see illustration No. 54.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_54"><img alt=
+"Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting." src="images/image054.jpg"
+width="440" height="500"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>55.--<em>Tatted Collar</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100; tatting-pin No. 1.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_55"><img alt="Tatted Collar." src=
+"images/image055.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists
+of four branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles,
+fastened on to one another as seen in illustration. The four
+branched patterns are <span class="newpage"><a name="page_65" id=
+"page_65">[65]</a></span> worked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double, and join the
+knots into a circle. Work 3 similar leaves close to this 1st leaf,
+but instead of working the 1st purl, fasten them on to the last
+purl of the preceding leaf; besides this, instead of <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">[66 ]</a></span> working
+the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl of
+the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed,
+knot both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row
+of similar patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a
+branch of the preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle
+purl of the last branch (see illustration). Two rows of similar
+patterns are joined by the above-mentioned circles, consisting of
+32 double stitches, by fastening these circles from illustration
+between four branched patterns. Begin each circle with 2 double
+stitches, fasten it on to the corresponding purl of the
+four-branched pattern, work again 2 double, fasten on to the next
+purl, and continue in the same manner till the circle is
+sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lace stitch. The
+collar is edged round the neck with close button-hole stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>56.--<em>Tatted Collar</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton
+in the following manner:--1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw
+the cotton into a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1
+purl, 3 double, draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the
+first purl of the first circle; work two more circles the same as
+last. 2nd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to
+the third purl of the centre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double,
+1 purl, 3 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5
+small circles, as follow:--3 double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, *
+1 purl, 3 double, joining each circle to the purl of the 2nd oval.
+3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times, joining the 3rd purl to the
+2nd purl of the centre circle of the preceding pattern, 3 double, 1
+purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 7
+small circles, similar to the small circles described in 2nd
+oval.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_67" id=
+"page_67">[67]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_56"><img alt="Tatted Collar." src=
+"images/image056.jpg" width="285" height="218"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>57.--<em>Circle in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_57"><img alt="Circle in Tatting." src=
+"images/image057.jpg" width="175" height="190"></a></center>
+
+<p>This circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty
+for <span class="newpage"><a name="page_68" id=
+"page_68">[68]</a></span> ornamenting cravat-ends and different
+articles of lingerie. It is commenced in the centre with 2 double,
+1 purl, repeated 8 times, draw the cotton into a ring, and work 8
+small circles, as follow:--3 double, * 1 purl, 1 double, repeat
+from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up the cotton, and join it
+to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle. Large circle:
+3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3 double,
+draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle.
+The centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>58.--<em>Tatting Medallion for Trimming Lingeries,
+&amp;c.c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50
+for cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for
+petticoats; tatting-pin No. 2 or 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_58"><img alt="Tatting Medallion." src=
+"images/image058.jpg" width="292" height="428"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars,
+pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &amp;c.c., according to the size
+of the cotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of
+circles which incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the
+centre; begin with the smallest circle, which is at the top of the
+pattern; it consists of 3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7
+double, 1 purl, 3 double. Then work at a short distance another
+circle like the preceding one, only work 8 double instead of 7, and
+instead of working the first purl, fasten the circle on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle; all the other circles are fastened on
+to each other in the same manner. The next circle, worked again at
+a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4 double; fasten it
+on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double, 1 purl, 4
+double. The following four circles are worked like the preceding
+one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead of
+9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece of
+cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat
+longer between the larger circles. Then work a circle <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">[69]</a></span> as
+follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double,
+1 purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14
+double instead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten
+the cotton, 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two
+following circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double
+instead of 15. Then comes the largest circle of the round, which
+consists of 6 double, 17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6
+double. Work 11 circles more <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_70" id="page_70">[70]</a></span> like the 2nd to 12th of
+those just described (the 13th circle forms the middle), only the
+order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round closes with the
+smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cotton together, so
+that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work round this row
+of circles another round, the circles of which must be of graduated
+sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on to the
+middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work
+one circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2
+double, 1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle
+purl of the next circle, &amp;c.c. The remaining circles are worked
+in the same manner, only they must be increased and decreased in
+size gradually like the circles of the first round; this is done by
+increasing or decreasing the number of purl, instead of working the
+first purl of every following circle, fasten it on to the last purl
+of the preceding circle. When the round is completed, fasten both
+ends of the cotton together. In the centre of the oval pattern,
+fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated size, which are worked
+in one piece. For the smallest of these patterns work first three
+circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times alternately 2
+double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be close to
+each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be
+fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton
+is then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the
+end of the same, then work close to them two small circles,
+consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between
+the beginning and the end of the third circle. The other
+five-branched patterns are worked in the same manner at intervals
+of about three-tenths of an inch; but the separate circles of each
+pattern must become gradually larger. In the largest pattern the
+three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">[71]</a></span> 8 times
+alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles
+consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other
+patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins
+these last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and
+thread, so as to imitate double stitches. The five-branched
+patterns are then fastened in the oval pattern; they must overlap
+each other to half way, as seen in the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>59.--<em>Tatted Diamond</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40,
+or 80 if required finer; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_59"><img alt="Tatted Diamond." src=
+"images/image059.jpg" width="190" height="198"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with
+fine tatting cotton in the following manner:--Work a * circle
+consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards
+and work at a short distance another circle consisting of 5 double,
+4 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; at a similar distance a
+circle of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding
+circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; then again
+a circle consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the
+preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2 <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">[72]</a></span> double, 5
+double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. Then turn the
+work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave an
+interval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three
+times more from *, fastening the circles on to each other from
+illustration. Knot together the beginning and end of the cotton,
+work button-hole stitches round the cotton which joins the circles,
+as shown in illustration. The purl stitches of the four middle
+circles of the diamond are knotted together.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>60.--<em>Tatted Cravat End</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3; 2 shuttles.</p>
+
+<p>This cravat end is given in full size. It is ornamented with a
+tatted medallion, edged with lace. The tatting is worked with
+tatting fine cotton and two shuttles. Make first the two rosettes
+which form the centre of the medallion, then the insertion-like
+part which edges the rosettes. The larger rosette is worked as
+follows:--Knot the cotton of both shuttles together and work with 1
+shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of
+an inch long, 10 double; * close to this circle, which is turned
+downwards, work over the cotton with the other shuttle, 1 double, 1
+purl, 8 double; this forms one of the scallops joining two circles.
+Then turn the work again and work close to the just completed
+scallop another circle like the first, but which is joined to the
+first circle instead of working the purl. Repeat 4 times more from
+*. Then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton on to
+the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the
+place where the scallop is joined to the first circle. The first
+round of the rosette is thus completed.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_60"><img alt="Tatted Cravat End." src=
+"images/image060.jpg" width="212" height="265"></a></center>
+
+<p>Work then the 2nd round over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle,
+beginning to work where the two ends of cotton have <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">[73]</a></span> been
+fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl of
+the next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double
+fastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">[74]</a></span> preceding
+round; repeat 5 times more from *. The larger rosette is now
+completed. The smaller rosette is worked like the first, only
+without the second round. The insertion-like border is worked in
+two halves as follows:--The half which touches the edge of the
+medallion is worked as follows:--Knot both ends of cotton together
+and *, work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1
+purl one-fifth of an inch long, 8 double; turn the circle downwards
+and work close to it over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1
+purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop of the border. Then turn the
+work again and work close to the scallop another circle like the
+first, but which is fastened on to the first circle instead of
+working the purl. Turn the work again, work a scallop like the
+preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only the scallops
+at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few double stitches
+more, as can be seen in illustration. After working the last
+scallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle;
+then cut them off. The second inner half is worked like the first;
+only the circles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened
+on to the circles of the first half from illustration; the scallops
+of this half are somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1
+purl, 5 double. The completed border is sewn on to the rosettes
+from illustration; the different pieces must be first fastened on
+cardboard. The cotton must be wound several times round the long
+threads, as seen in illustration. The medallion is then sewn into
+the muslin at the top only; the remaining border is edged, before
+joining it to the muslin, with a straight row of knots to be worked
+over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop of the border at
+regular intervals. The number of double stitches between two purl
+is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. For the lace knot
+both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circle
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_75" id=
+"page_75">[75]</a></span> consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double;
+turn the work and make another circle consisting of 2 double, 9
+times alternately 1 purl, 2 double; then fasten this circle on to
+the preceding one, where it has been joined into a circle, so that
+both circles meet as seen in illustration. After having turned the
+work again, work 9 double over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle, which
+form a scallop between the circles, and repeat from *. The lace is
+then sewn round the edge of the muslin.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>61.--<em>Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60,
+or No. 40 if desired in a larger size.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_61"><img alt=
+"Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery." src="images/image061.jpg"
+width="225" height="205"></a></center>
+
+<p>This rosette is suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats,
+&amp;c.c. It is worked in white embroidery and lace stitch, and
+edged all round with a tatted lace. For the latter work with very
+fine cotton * 1 large circle, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 7
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 5 double. At a short
+distance from this circle work a smaller one, consisting of 5
+double fastened on to the last purl of the large circle, 5 double.
+Leave again an interval as small as the last, and repeat from <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">[76]</a></span> * 11
+times more. But in working the large circles, instead of working
+the 1st purl, fasten them on the same purl of the large circle on
+which the small circle has been fastened; besides this, in working
+the last (12th) large circle, instead of working the last purl,
+fasten it on the 1st purl of the 1st circle; the last small circle
+is fastened on to the same purl. The lace is thus joined into a
+circle, and is sewn round the outside of the rosette with
+button-hole stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_62"><img alt="Cravat End in Tatting" src=
+"images/image062.jpg" width="289" height="319"></a></center>
+
+<p>62--<em>Cravat End in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>The illustration shows the end of a tatted cravat. Work first
+the middle row of the cravat at the same time with the row of
+circles on the left side of the middle row in illustration; begin
+with the first circle of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_77"
+id="page_77">[77]</a></span> the middle row. It consists of 7 times
+alternately 3 double, 1 small purl, then 3 double. Work close to
+this circle, which must be turned downwards, a Josephine knot,
+consisting of 5 plain stitches, then a circle consisting of 5
+double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 5 times alternately 3
+double, 1 small purl; 3 double, 1 long purl, 5 double. *Turn this
+circle (which is the first of the side row) downwards, work close
+to it a Josephine knot, then a circle consisting of 12 double, 1
+small purl, 12 double. Turn this circle downwards, work a Josephine
+knot, and then again a circle like the first of the side row, but
+instead of working the first long purl, fasten it on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle of the same row. Then hold the work so
+that the circles of the side row are turned downwards, work a
+Josephine knot, 1 circle like the first circle of the middle row,
+turn the work, make 1 Josephine knot, and then a circle like the
+second circle of the side row. Repeat from * till the cravat is
+sufficiently long. The last circle of the middle row must
+correspond to the first circle of the same row. Then begin to work
+the lower edge at the same time with the last circle of the middle
+row, * 1 Josephine knot, then a circle like the circles of the side
+row, again 1 Josephine knot, fastened on to the next purl of the
+last circle of the middle row; repeat 3 times more from *. Then
+continue as before, and work on the right side of the middle row a
+row of circles exactly like those which have been worked at the
+same time with those of the middle row.</p>
+
+<p>The fastening on of the cotton between two Josephine knots is
+seen in illustration. The circles at the other end of the cravat
+are fastened like those of the first-described end. The cravat is
+edged all round with a row of circles with Josephine knots worked
+exactly like those of the preceding row, and the manner of
+fastening which is seen in the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_78" id=
+"page_78">[78]</a></span>
+
+<p>63.--<em>Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60,
+or 40 if required larger; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_63"><img alt=
+"Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery." src="images/image063.jpg"
+width="216" height="191"></a></center>
+
+<p>The centre of this rosette is worked in lace stitch on muslin,
+edged round with button-hole stitch and trimmed with a tatted lace,
+which is worked at the same time with the centre. Work first * a
+small circle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 3 double, fastened on
+to the button-hole stitch edging of the rosette, then 3 double, 1
+purl, 5 double. Then turn the just-completed circle downwards, and
+afterwards work at a short distance a large circle consisting of 7
+double, 6 times alternately 1 purl, 2 double, lastly 1 purl, 7
+double, then 1 Josephine knot consisting of 7 plain. Then turn the
+work again, so that the last large circle is turned downwards, and
+repeat from * 12 times more; the large and small circles must be
+fastened on to one another, as seen in illustration. The fastening
+of the small circles on to the centre is likewise done from the
+illustration.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_79" id=
+"page_79">[79]</a></span>
+
+<p>64.--<em>Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3; square of netting; fine Mecklenburg thread No.
+80.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_64"><img alt=
+"Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting." src=
+"images/image064.jpg" width="295" height="451"></a></center>
+
+<p>The end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned
+netting, edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of
+the cravat. But the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square
+(page 31) will look <span class="newpage"><a name="page_80" id=
+"page_80">[80]</a></span> very pretty with this border. The square
+is worked in diamond netting, and has seven holes in length and
+breadth. They are darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and
+<em>point d'esprit</em>, with Mecklenburg thread. The ground is
+worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inch round. For
+each square one more row than is needed must be worked, and the
+cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitches
+of the other rows. The tatted border is worked with fine tatting
+cotton. Fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a
+circle consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2
+double, 1 purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch
+of the ground where it was first fastened; #work a second circle
+like the first, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on
+to the last purl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again
+on to the same stitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small
+circle, consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the
+preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double. The cotton is
+fastened on to the same netted stitch as before, and then on to the
+next stitch; repeat twice more from #, and then repeat from * in
+all three times more, so that the square is edged all round. It is
+sewn into the material from the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>65.--<em>Tatted Antimacassar. (See pages</em> <a href=
+"#page_574">574-5</a>).</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+30, or tatting cotton No. 24, or for a larger size tatting cotton
+No. 20; tatting-pin No. 1; large shuttle.</p>
+
+<p>The illustration shows the fourth of the antimacassar and the
+whole of the rosette which forms the centre. Begin with the latter,
+with the five-branched pattern in the centre, at the same time with
+the following round of circles:--*Work first one circle of this
+round, consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2
+double, 1 purl, 3 double; then at <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_81" id="page_81">[81]</a></span> a short distance a circle
+like the one just made, in which, however, instead of working the
+first purl, the cotton must be joined on to the last purl of the
+preceding circle. Then work at a short distance the first leaf of
+the five-branched pattern, which consists of 4 double, 1 purl, 4
+double. When this branch is completed, repeat at a short distance 4
+times more from *; but in working the branches of the five-branched
+pattern, instead of working the purl, join it on to the purl of the
+first branch of the five-branched pattern (this purl forms the
+centre of the pattern). All the circles must also be joined one to
+each other, as can be seen from illustration. Then work the
+scallops round the border of the rosette, * fasten the cotton on to
+the purl which joins the two next circles of the preceding round,
+and work one scallop consisting of 11 times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, then 2 double. Repeat 9 times more from *. When the rosette
+is completed, work eight rosettes in the same manner and join them
+into a circle from illustration by means of small three-branched
+patterns, and then join them on to the middle rosette.</p>
+
+<p>The strip of insertion which comes next is worked in two halves
+as follows:--Work first, for the half turned towards the centre,
+two rows of circles lying opposite each other; begin with one of
+the largest circles, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 3 times
+alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 4 double; * at a short distance
+work a smaller circle of 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double; after another
+short distance, a circle like the first joined on to it; then again
+a smaller circle, which at the place of the first purl is joined on
+to the purl of the preceding small circle. A short distance from
+this work again one of the larger circles just described, which is
+fastened on to the preceding similar circle; then repeat from *
+till the double row has nine larger and eight smaller circles. The
+first half of the strip of insertion is completed; the <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">[82]</a></span> second
+outer half is worked like the first, only the small circles must
+here be worked without any purl, and two of them together must
+always be fastened on to the two joined small circles of the first
+half, as was done for the five-branched pattern of the rosette;
+besides this, each of the large circles has 4 double, 1 purl, 4
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 4 double. When eight
+similar patterns have been worked, join them into a circle from
+illustration by means of small rosettes; this circle is then joined
+to the already-finished part of the cover. The small rosettes and
+remaining patterns of the antimacassar are easily worked from
+illustration. The completed patterns are joined together in the
+course of the work.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>TATTING COTTON</p>
+
+<p>Is supplied by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, in all
+sizes from 20 to 120. Crochet Cotton, which is preferred by some
+Tatters, is sold in all sizes from to 120.</p>
+
+<p>The following table will assist ladies in selecting the size of
+either tatting or crochet cotton. All these cottons are on reels
+containing 100 yards:--</p>
+
+<table summary="Table for selection of threads" border="2"
+cellpadding="4">
+<tr>
+<th>&nbsp;</th>
+<th>Tatting.</th>
+<th>Crochet.</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Petticoat Edgings and Insertions</td>
+<td>20</td>
+<td>0 and 12</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Night Dress Trimmings</td>
+<td>40</td>
+<td>60</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lingerie Trimming</td>
+<td>50</td>
+<td>70</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Collars and Cravats</td>
+<td>50</td>
+<td>70</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pocket Handkerchiefs</td>
+<td>100</td>
+<td>120</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Parasol Covers</td>
+<td>100</td>
+<td>120</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Antimacassars</td>
+<td>20,&nbsp; 30</td>
+<td>0 and 20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pincushions</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>80</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Caps</td>
+<td>100</td>
+<td>120</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lace</td>
+<td>60, 80, 100</td>
+<td>80,&nbsp;100, &nbsp;120</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Insertions</td>
+<td>20,&nbsp;40,&nbsp;80</td>
+<td>40,&nbsp;80,&nbsp;100</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Ladies at a distance from town or on the Continent will be glad
+to have some guide as to the quantity of cotton required to
+complete their work. The quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used
+by an average worker is found to be two yards to the square inch
+with a single shuttle; three yards to the square inch with two
+shuttles.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_83" id=
+"page_83">[83]</a></span> <br>
+<br>
+
+
+<h2>EMBROIDERY</h2>
+
+<a name="EMBROIDERY_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+<h3>EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<p>The art of embroidering with cotton on linen, muslin, cambric,
+piqu&eacute;, &amp;c.c., is very easy to learn by strictly
+attending to the following instructions.</p>
+
+<p>The size of the thread and needle must correspond to that of the
+material on which you embroider; the needle must not be too long,
+and the cotton must be soft. Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton is the best. Skilful embroiderers never work over
+anything, because when you tack the material on paper or cloth each
+stitch shows, and if the material is very fine, leaves small holes;
+but for those that are learning we should advise them to tack the
+material to be embroidered upon a piece of <em>toile
+cir&eacute;e</em>. If you work without this, place the material
+straight over the forefinger of the left hand; the material must
+never be held slantways. The three other fingers of the left hand
+hold the work; the thumb remains free to give the right position to
+each stitch. The work must always, if possible, lie so that the
+outline of the pattern is turned towards the person who works. For
+the sake of greater clearness one part of the following
+illustrations is given in larger size than nature. Preparing the
+patterns is one of the most important things in embroidery, for the
+shape of the patterns is often spoiled merely because they have not
+been prepared with sufficient care.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_84" id=
+"page_84">[84]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_66"><img alt="Scallop." src=
+"images/image066.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 66 shows how to prepare a scallop. Take thicker
+cotton than that with which you work; never commence with a knot,
+and do not take a thread longer than sixteen or eighteen inches.
+The outlines of the scallops are first traced with short straight
+stitches. In the corners particularly the stitches must be short.
+The space between the outlines is filled with chain stitches, as
+can be seen from illustration; they must not be too long, otherwise
+the embroidery will look coarse. It is in this way that every
+pattern to be worked in button-hole or satin stitch is to be
+prepared.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_67"><img alt="Double Overcast Stitch." src=
+"images/image067.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 67 shows the double overcast stitch or button-hole
+stitch in a straight line. After having traced the outline begin to
+work from left to right; fasten the cotton with a few stitches,
+hold it with the thumb of the left hand under the outline, insert
+the needle downwards above the outline, draw it out under the same
+above the cotton which you hold in the left hand, and draw it up.
+Repeat for all the stitches in the same manner; they must be
+regular and lie close to one another. Great care should be taken
+that the material on which you embroider is not puckered.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_68"><img alt="Overcast Stitch." src=
+"images/image068.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 68 (<em>Overcast Stitch</em>).--The double overcast
+and the button-hole stitches are worked from left to right, whilst
+back stitches, knotted and satin stitches are worked from right to
+left. The stitch is worked in the same way as the double overcast,
+only the needle must never be drawn out <em>above</em>, but
+<em>below</em>, the cotton with which you work, and which you keep
+down with the thumb of the left hand.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_69"><img alt="Slanting Overcast Stitch."
+src="images/image069.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 69.--The slanting overcast stitch is worked without
+tracing the outline, always inserting the needle downwards--that
+is, from top to bottom. The needle must be inserted in the manner
+shown in illustration--that is, not straight, but slanting; insert
+it a little farther than the last stitch, and draw it out close to
+it. The wrong side of the work must show back stitches. This sort
+of stitch is used for the fine outlines in patterns or letter.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_86" id=
+"page_86">[86]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_70"><img alt="Back Stitch." src=
+"images/image070.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 70.--This shows the back stitch, the working of
+which is well known; it is worked in several rows close to each
+other.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_71"><img alt="Point Crois&eacute;." src=
+"images/image071.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_72"><img alt="Point Crois&eacute;." src=
+"images/image072.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 71 &amp; 72 show another kind of back stitch,
+called <em>point crois&eacute;</em>, which is only used on very
+thin and transparent materials. This stitch forms on the wrong side
+a sort of darned pattern, which is seen by transparence on the
+right side, and gives the embroidered pattern a thicker appearance,
+contrasting with the rest of the work (see the lower leaves of the
+flower on illustration <a href="#image_110">110</a>). For this
+stitch insert the needle into the material as for the common back
+stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on the opposite outline
+of the pattern, so as to form on the wrong side a slanting line.
+Insert the needle again as for common back stitch; draw it out
+slanting at the place marked for the next stitch on the opposite
+outline, as shown in illustration 71.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_73"><img alt="Knotted Stitch." src=
+"images/image073.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_87" id=
+"page_87">[87]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 73 shows the knotted stitch; the simplest way of
+working it is to work two back stitches at a short distance from
+each other over the same thread.</p>
+
+<p>The knotted stitch seen in ILLUSTRATION 74 is worked thus:--Take
+about four threads of the material on the needle, draw the needle
+half out, wind the cotton twice round the point of the needle, hold
+it tight with the thumb, draw the needle out carefully and insert
+it at the place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out at the
+place where the next stitch is to be worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_74"><img alt="Knotted Stitch." src=
+"images/image074.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_75"><img alt="Knotted Stitch" src=
+"images/image075.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The knotted stitch seen on ILLUSTRATION 75 is worked in nearly
+the same manner as the preceding one. Before drawing the cotton out
+of the material hold it tight with the left-hand thumb; leave the
+needle in the same position, wind the cotton twice round it, turn
+the needle from left to right, so (follow the direction of the
+arrow) that its point arrives where the cotton was drawn out
+(marked by a cross in illustration), insert the needle there, and
+draw it out at the place of the next stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_76"><img alt="Raised Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image076.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_88" id=
+"page_88">[88]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 76 &amp; 77.--Raised satin stitch is principally
+used for blossoms, flowers, leaves, letters, &amp;c.c. After having
+traced the outlines of the pattern, fill the space left between
+them with chain stitches in a direction different from that in
+which the pattern is to be embroidered; begin at the point of the
+leaf, working from right to left, make short straight stitches,
+always inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it
+out below. The leaves on the flowers, as well as on the branches,
+must be begun from the point, because they thus acquire a better
+shape. If you wish to work a leaf divided in the middle, as seen in
+illustration 77, you must trace the veining before you fill it with
+chain stitches, then begin at one point of the leaf and work first
+one half and then the other.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_77"><img alt="Raised Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image077.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_78"><img alt="Point de Plume." src=
+"images/image078.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 78 shows the so-called <em>point de plume</em> on a
+scalloped leaf. It is worked like the satin stitch, only the needle
+is drawn through the material in a slanting direction.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_79"><img alt="Point de Minute." src=
+"images/image079.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_89" id=
+"page_89">[89]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 79 (<em>Point de Minute</em>).--This stitch is
+often used instead of satin stitch when the patterns must appear
+raised. Wind the cotton several times round the point of the
+needle, which is inserted into the material half its length (the
+number of times the cotton is to be wound round the needle depends
+on the length of the pattern), hold fast the windings with the
+thumb of the left hand, draw the needle and the cotton through the
+windings, insert the needle into the material at the same place,
+and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to begin.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_80"><img alt="Ladder Stitch." src=
+"images/image080.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_81"><img alt="Ladder Stitch." src=
+"images/image081.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 80 &amp; 81 show the <em>ladder stitch</em>, often
+used in ornamental embroidery. Trace first the outlines as seen in
+illustrations; mark also the cross stitches between the outlines,
+so that the first touch the outlines only at both ends. The
+outlines are embroidered in overcast stitch or double overcast; the
+material is cut away underneath the ladder stitch between the
+outlines.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_90" id=
+"page_90">[90]</a></span>
+
+<p>We have now shown the different kinds of stitches used in
+embroidery; the following illustrations show them used for
+different patterns.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_82"><img alt="Button-hole Stitch Scallop."
+src="images/image082.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_83"><img alt="Button-hole Stitch Scallop."
+src="images/image083.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_84"><img alt="Button-hole Stitch Scallop."
+src="images/image084.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_85"><img alt="Button-hole Stitch Scallop."
+src="images/image085.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 82 TO 85 (<em>Different Button-hole Stitch
+Scallops</em>).--These scallops are prepared as above described.
+Take care to have the stitches even and regular; the scallops must
+be wide in the centre and very fine at both ends.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_91" id=
+"page_91">[91]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 86 &amp; 87 (<em>Button-holes and
+Eyelets</em>).--This kind of embroidery is used only in round or
+long patterns. Trace first the outline of the hole, cut away a
+small round piece of material, not too close to the outlines (when
+the button-hole is very small merely insert the point of the
+scissors or a stiletto into the material), fold the edge of the
+material back with the needle, and work the hole in overcast
+stitch, inserting the needle into the empty place in the centre and
+drawing it out under the outline. Some button-holes are worked
+separately; sometimes they are in a row; if so, take care to begin
+to work each button-hole at the place where it touches the next. In
+the following button-holes the outside must be traced double, so as
+to reach as far as the next one, but each button-hole is finished
+at once. Illustration 86 shows a button-hole worked round in
+button-hole stitch, 87 an eyelet-hole worked in overcast.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_86"><img alt="Button and Eyelet Holes." src=
+"images/image086.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_87"><img alt="Button and Eyelet Holes." src=
+"images/image087.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_92" id=
+"page_92">[92]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_88"><img alt="Shaded Button-hole." src=
+"images/image088.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_89"><img alt="Shaded Button-hole." src=
+"images/image089.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 88 &amp; 89.--Shaded button-holes are worked like
+the others, only they are prepared, as can be seen in illustration
+89, so as to mark the thickness. The stitches must gradually get
+narrower or wider, and be worked very close to each other.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_90"><img alt="Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch."
+src="images/image090.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 90 &amp; 91 (<em>Two Leaves in Raised Satin
+Stitch</em>).--In a leaf like the one seen in 90 work first the
+outline and veining in overcast stitch; work one half of the leaf
+in satin stitch, and the other half between the overcast outline
+and veining in back stitch. The stem of a leaf is always worked
+last.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_93" id=
+"page_93">[93]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_91"><img alt="Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch."
+src="images/image091.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_92"><img alt="Raised Leaf." src=
+"images/image092.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 92 &amp; 93 (<em>Two Leaves in Satin Stitch and
+Point de Plume</em>).--For leaves like the one seen in 93 begin
+with the veinings, then work the inner points, then the outer ones,
+and lastly the raised spots in the centre. The leaf seen in 92 is
+worked, one half in <em>point de plume</em>, the other half in back
+stitch or <em>point d'or</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_93"><img alt="Raised Leaf." src=
+"images/image093.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_94"><img alt="Leaf." src=
+"images/image094.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 94.--- The outline of this leaf is embroidered in
+overcast stitch; the open-work veining consists of eyelets; one
+half of the leaf is worked in back stitch, the other half in a kind
+of satin stitch worked without chain stitches underneath; <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">[94]</a></span>the
+stitches are worked across the leaf, leaving between two stitches
+an interval as wide as the stitch itself. The next row is then
+worked in these intervals, and each stitch begins half-way up the
+one before and after it.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_95"><img alt="Leaf Raised." src=
+"images/image095.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_96"><img alt="Leaf Raised." src=
+"images/image096.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_97"><img alt="Raised Leaf." src=
+"images/image097.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 95 to 97 (<em>Leaf in Raised
+Embroidery</em>).--This kind of embroidery is particularly
+beautiful, as it is worked separately and sewn on the material with
+an outline in very fine cotton, this produces the shade seen in 95
+(see also illustrations 98 to 113). For such leaves work first one
+half in overcast and satin stitch (illustration 96); the other half
+is worked on a separate piece of material (see illustration 97);
+cut away the material along the overcast outline, and fasten it on
+the foundation material along the outline which forms the veining
+on illustration 96.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_95" id=
+"page_95">[95]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_98"><img alt="Raised Embroidered Leaf." src=
+"images/image098.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_99"><img alt="Half of Leaf (98)." src=
+"images/image099.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_100"><img alt="Centre of Leaf (98)." src=
+"images/image100.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 98 TO 100 show a similar leaf; both halves are
+worked separately (see 99); the centre is worked in open lace
+stitch. The latter (see No. 100) is traced, then make ladder
+stitches across, work the outlines in overcast stitch, and cut away
+the material underneath the ladder stitch. The cross stitches are
+then worked in darning stitch with very fine cotton wherever two
+threads meet.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_101"><img alt="Blossom in Satin Stitch."
+src="images/image101.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 101 (<em>Blossom in Satin Stitch</em>).--The eyelet
+is worked in overcast stitch, then work the upper part of the
+blossom all in one piece as far as the beginning of the veining,
+thence the blossom is worked in two halves.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_96" id=
+"page_96">[96]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_102"><img alt="Blossom in Satin Stitch."
+src="images/image102.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_103"><img alt="Bead partly covered." src=
+"images/image103.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 102 &amp; 103 (<em>Blossom in Satin
+Stitch</em>).--The raised centre of this flower is formed by a
+bead, over which the embroidery is worked. When the leaves have
+been worked one after the other, place a bead in the centre, left
+free in such a manner that one hole lies on the material, and work
+over the bead by inserting the needle into its upper hole, then
+underneath the material, drawing it out above the material close to
+the bead, and so on (see 103).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_104"><img alt="Star in Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image104.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 104 (<em>Star Pattern in Satin Stitch</em>).--The
+centre, which forms a wheel, is worked first. Draw the threads
+across the circle <span class="newpage"><a name="page_97" id=
+"page_97">[97]</a></span> marked by an outline; in the centre they
+are wound round, always taking one thread <em>on the needle</em>
+and leaving the next thread <em>under the needle</em>, as can be
+seen in <a href="#image_121">122</a> on the half-finished pattern.
+The material underneath the wheel is only cut away when the rest of
+the pattern has been embroidered.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_105"><img alt="Star in Point de Reprise."
+src="images/image105.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 105 &amp; 106 (<em>Patterns in Back, Satin, and
+Ladder Stitches</em>).--The small star in the centre of No. 105 is
+worked in <em>point de reprise</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_106"><img alt="Star." src=
+"images/image106.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_107"><img alt="Flower in Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image107.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 107 (<em>Flower in Satin Stitch</em>).--The fine
+veinings are worked with fine black silk in <em>point russe</em>,
+which renders the effect of the flower very beautiful.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_108"><img alt="Rose in Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image108.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_109"><img alt="Petal for Rose." src=
+"images/image109.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_98" id=
+"page_98">[98]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 108 &amp; 109 (<em>Rose in Satin
+Stitch</em>).--No. 109 shows one petal larger than full size. The
+outer circle only is prepared with chain stitches underneath, so as
+to appear raised; the inner circles are worked flat. The centre of
+the rose is embroidered in open work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_110"><img alt="Heartsease." src=
+"images/image110.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 110 (<em>Embroidered Heartsease</em>).--For the
+knotted stitch see No. <a href="#image_75">75</a>. for the
+<em>point crois&eacute;</em> see <a href="#image_71">71</a> and <a
+href="#image_72">72</a>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_111"><img alt="Raised Flower." src=
+"images/image111.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 111 (<em>Flower in Raised Satin Stitch</em>).</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_99" id=
+"page_99">[99]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_112"><img alt="Ear of Corn." src=
+"images/image112.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 112 (<em>An Ear of Corn in Point de
+Minute</em>).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_113"><img alt="Bluebell." src=
+"images/image113.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_114"><img alt="Inner part of Bluebell." src=
+"images/image114.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 113, 114, &amp; 116 (<em>Bluebell in Raised Satin
+Stitch</em>).--This flower is worked partly in separate pieces, as
+has <span class="newpage"><a name="page_100" id=
+"page_100">[100]</a></span>been described. Illustration 116 shows
+the raised part stretched out flat. When it is finished it is
+fastened down along the dotted line on No. 114, which shows the
+inner part of the flower.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_115"><img alt="Flower." src=
+"images/image115.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 115 (<em>Flower in Point de Minute</em>).--This
+stitch is here worked over a thick foundation of chain stitches.
+For raised patterns it looks very well.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_116"><img alt="Outer part of Bluebell." src=
+"images/image116.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_117"><img alt=
+"Flower appliqu&eacute;d on Net." src=
+"images/image117.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 116 &amp; 117 (<em>Flower worked in
+Appliqu&eacute;</em>).--To work in appliqu&eacute;, two materials,
+either similar or different, are needed. You can work either in
+appliqu&eacute; of muslin on muslin, or of muslin on net, or of net
+on net. Muslin on Brussels net is the prettiest way of working in
+appliqu&eacute;; we will therefore describe it: the other materials
+are worked in the same manner. <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_101" id="page_101">[101]</a></span>Trace the pattern on the
+muslin, fasten the latter on the net, and trace the outlines of the
+pattern with very small stitches work them in overcast stitch with
+very fine cotton, taking care not to pucker the material. The
+veinings are worked in overcast. When the pattern has been
+embroidered cut away the muslin round the outlines with sharp
+scissors, so that the net forms the grounding (see No. 117). The
+greatest care is required in cutting out the muslin to avoid
+touching the threads of the net.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_118"><img alt="Border." src=
+"images/image118.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 118 &amp; 119 (<em>Narrow Borders</em>).--It will
+be easy to work these borders from the above instructions. Observe
+only that on border 118 the outer row of scallops is worked first,
+then the button-hole stitch row, and the rest afterwards. The spots
+are edged all round in knotted stitch. The wheels in the centre of
+the eyelets of No. 119 are worked with very fine cotton in loose
+button-hole stitch; they are wound round with the cotton in a
+second row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_119"><img alt="Border." src=
+"images/image119.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_102" id=
+"page_102">[102]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_120"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image120.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 120 TO 122.--Three strips of insertion, which are
+worked nearly like the ladder stitch. For No. 120, in tracing the
+outlines, make two small knots at short distances by winding the
+cotton four times round the needle, as can be seen in illustration;
+the windings are held down with the thumb of the left hand, draw
+the needle through, and a knot is formed. The outlines are worked
+in button-hole stitch only when all the knots have been made, and
+then the material is cut away underneath. Illustration 121 is a
+variety of the slanting ladder stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 122.--The cross threads are worked in two rows in
+the common herring-bone stitch, as can be seen by the black lines
+on the illustration. The straight lines at the top and at the
+bottom are worked in double overcast; lastly, the wheels are worked
+in a row as described for the star pattern, No. 104.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_121"><img alt="121 and 122.Insertions" src=
+"images/image121and122.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_103" id=
+"page_103">[103]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_123"><img alt="123 to 126." src=
+"images/image123to126.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 123 To 129 (<em>Embroidered Initials</em>).--To
+learn to work initials the Roman characters are the easiest to
+begin with. They must be traced and prepared like other embroidery
+in satin stitch, only the chain stitches underneath must not be too
+thick: it would take away the shape of the letters. All depends on
+the fineness and regularity of the stitches; they must be worked in
+overcast stitch. Work from left to right, and the letter when
+completed must look rather like raised printing than like
+embroidery. Gothic letters are much more difficult to work on
+account of the many flourishes; it requires great practice in
+needlework to embroider them well.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 123.--The small black dots are worked in black silk
+on the thick parts of the letter: the fine strokes are covered with
+cross threads of black silk.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 124.--The outlines of the letter and the fine
+strokes are worked in black silk.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 125.--This letter is embroidered in raised satin
+stitch and <em>point de plume</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 126.--This letter is worked in back stitches, over
+which are worked at regular distances cross stitches of black
+silk.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 127.--Letter in satin and back stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 128 to be worked in overcast and double
+overcast.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_104" id=
+"page_104">[104]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_127"><img alt="127 to 129." src=
+"images/image127to129.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 129.--Letter G in <em>point russe</em> with black
+silk.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_130"><img alt="130." src=
+"images/image130.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 130 (<em>Embroidered Figures</em>).--They are
+worked like the letters in <em>point de plume</em> and overcast;
+the dots are worked in knotted stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_105" id=
+"page_105">[105]</a></span>
+
+<h2>EMBROIDERY</h2>
+
+<a name="EMBROIDERY_PATTERNS"></a>
+<h3>EMBROIDERY PATTERNS</h3>
+
+<p>[In working the following Embroidery Patterns it will be found
+advisable to trace the design clearly upon tracing-paper with a
+sharp-pointed lead pencil. The pattern thus traced must be
+perforated with a fine needle in a succession of tiny holes, at the
+rate of about twenty to the inch. Those ladies who possess a
+sewing-machine will find no difficulty in accomplishing this.
+Several thicknesses of paper can be perforated at the same time, if
+required, by any ordinary machine. To transfer the traced and
+perforated design to the fabric to be embroidered, it is only
+necessary to rub a small quantity of powder blue through the
+holes.]</p>
+
+<p>131.--<em>Insertion in Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch and buttonhole
+stitch. The outlines must first be traced and the space filled up
+with chain stitches. To work a leaf, begin at the point, working
+from right to left, making short stitches, and always inserting the
+needle close above the outline and drawing it out below. The holes
+left for the ribbon to pass through are worked in plain button-hole
+stitch, the dots are worked in raised satin stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_106" id=
+"page_106">[106]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_131"><img alt="Insertion in Embroidery."
+src="images/image131.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>132.--<em>Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos.
+10 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>The veinings of this pretty insertion must be worked in overcast
+stitch (No. 68, <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>), the leaves and
+flowers in raised satin stitch, the scallops in button-hole stitch,
+and the outer edge of the leaves in back stitch (No. 70,
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) with No. 10 cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_132"><img alt=
+"Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching." src=
+"images/image132.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_107" id=
+"page_107">[107]</a></span>
+
+<p>133.--<em>Cravat End in Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24, or fine black China silk.</p>
+
+<p>This graceful design is worked in raised satin stitch (see Nos.
+<a href="#image_76">76</a> and <a href="#image_77">77</a>,
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) and back stitching, or point
+Russe. Black silk may be introduced at will, and the delicate
+leaves may be stitched in fine black silk, and the flowers
+embroidered in white, with the stamens in black silk.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_133"><img alt=
+"Embroidered Pattern for Cravat Ends, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image133.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>134.--<em>Basket Embroidered in Chenille</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: A basket of fine wicker-work; 1 skein of black
+chenille, and 3 of blue chenille.</p>
+
+<p>This small round basket measures seven inches across; it has a
+cover and two handles. The wicker is very delicately <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">[108]</a></span>plaited,
+and is ornamented with a pattern in chenille which is very easy to
+work. Upon the cover, work in point Russe one large star in blue
+chenille, with the centre and outer circle in black. All round,
+work small stars in blue chenille, with a black stitch in the
+centre. The position of these stars is shown in our illustration.
+The basket requires no mounting; it is not even lined.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_134"><img alt=
+"Basket Embroidered in Chenille." src=
+"images/image134.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_109" id=
+"page_109">[109]</a></span>
+
+<p>135.--<em>Pattern for Collars and Cuffs in Embroidery.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin, cambric or lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s embroidery cotton perfectionn&eacute; No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>Work the outer circle in long even scallops (see page <a href=
+"#page_90">90</a> of <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) in raised
+button-hole stitch; the spray of flowers is embroidered in raised
+satin stitch, the leaves in the same, and the rosebud calyx in tiny
+eyelet-holes. The centres of the roses are embroidered in
+open-work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_135"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image135.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>136.--<em>Cravat End in Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin, Brussels net; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<p>Tack the traced muslin over the net and work the scallop of the
+inner edge; next the design in the centre must be worked in raised
+satin stitch (see No. <a href="#image_77">77</a> in <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>). The raised dots are also worked in satin stitch
+(see page <a href="#page_90">90</a> of <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>). Lastly, work the outer edging of round scallops
+and the lines of raised dots, and with a pair of embroidery
+scissors carefully cut away the muslin from the outer edge and from
+the leaves of the centre pattern.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_110" id=
+"page_110">[110]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_136"><img alt="Cravat End in Embroidery."
+src="images/image136.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_111" id=
+"page_111">[111]</a></span>
+
+<p>137.--<em>Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs,
+&amp;c</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton
+perfectionn&eacute; No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty star should be worked in fine overcast stitch (see
+No. <a href="#image_68">68</a> in <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>). The centre is worked in raised satin stitch
+leaves round a circle of button-hole stitch, in the middle of which
+a wheel is worked thus:--Slip the cotton under the thick edge and
+fasten it, then cross it over and back so as to make 8 bars, then
+twist the cotton twice round 1 bar; this will bring it to the
+centre; work over and under each of the bars until a thick dot is
+formed; fasten the cotton beneath this, and twist it twice round
+the bar opposite to the first one you worked, and finish off.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_137"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image137.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>138.--<em>Embroidery Covering for a Quilted
+Counterpane</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Cashmere, cambric muslin, or linen; Messrs. Walter
+Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 4.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_112" id=
+"page_112">[112]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_113" id="page_113">[113]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_138"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpane." src=
+"images/image138.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_114" id=
+"page_114">[114]</a></span>
+
+<p>This is an embroidery-pattern for a woollen or silk quilted
+counterpane. Such counterpanes generally have a lining which is
+turned back on the right side, and buttoned down at the point of
+each scallop. The pattern is a quilted counterpane of scarlet
+cashmere; the lining is of fine linen. Before embroidering it, make
+the points for the corners. The embroidery is worked in button-hole
+stitch, overcast, satin, and ladder stitch. It can also be worked
+on fine cambric or muslin, and then the embroidered pattern sewn on
+the piece of linen which forms the cover on the wrong side. Make
+the button-holes as seen on illustration, and sew on
+mother-of-pearl or china buttons.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_139"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Cravat Ends, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image139.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>139.--<em>Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Collars, Cuffs,
+&amp;c</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked in satin stitch, point Russe, and point
+d'or on muslin, cambric, or linen; it is suitable for collars, or
+cravat ends, or handkerchief corners.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_115" id=
+"page_115">[115]</a></span>
+
+<p>140.--<em>Handkerchief in Embroidery</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 50.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_140"><img alt="Handkerchief in Embroidery."
+src="images/image140.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Three rows of hem-stitching ornament this handkerchief; the
+pattern forms an insertion within the outer rows, the flowers are
+worked in <span class="newpage"><a name="page_116" id=
+"page_116">[116]</a></span> raised satin stitch, with eyelet-hole
+centres (see No. <a href="#image_87">87</a> of <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>); the tendrils are worked in overcast stitch;
+three rows of raised dots, in groups of four, are worked on the
+inner side of the last row of hem-stitching. This pattern looks
+very handsome on a broad-hemmed handkerchief.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>141.--<em>Convolvulus Leaf Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 20.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_141"><img alt="Convolvulus Leaf Insertion."
+src="images/image141.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The convolvulus leaves are worked in raised satin stitch, the
+veinings and stems in overcast stitch, the eyelet-holes in slanting
+overcast stitch. (See No. <a href="#image_69">69</a> of
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.)</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>142.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 20.</p>
+
+<p>This simple insertion is worked in raised satin stitch, the
+stems alone excepted; these are embroidered in overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_117" id=
+"page_117">[117]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_142"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image142.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>143 and 144.--<em>Two Patterns in Embroidery for Trimming
+Lingerie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+20, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_143"><img alt=
+"Patterns for Trimming Lingerie." src=
+"images/image143and144.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These patterns are worked in point Russe and stitching; the
+spots in satin and knotted stitch. Illustration 143 is ornamented
+in the centre with lace stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_118" id=
+"page_118">[118]</a></span>
+
+<p>145 <em>and</em> 146.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>The two insertions, Nos. 145 and 146, are worked partly in satin
+stitch, partly in open-work embroidery, and are edged on either
+side with an open-work hem.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_145"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image145.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_146"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image146.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>147.--<em>Couvrette in Appliqu&eacute; Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Net, fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>The pattern must be traced on the muslin, which should be tacked
+on the net. The outline of the design must be traced with very
+small stitches, and worked in overcast stitches, as are also the
+veinings; the dots are worked in raised satin stitch; the border is
+embroidered with satin stitch flowers and scallop button-hole
+stitch. To work appliqu&eacute; on net, see No. <a href=
+"#image_117">117</a> of <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_119" id=
+"page_119">[119]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_147"><img alt=
+"Couvrette in Appliqu&eacute; Embroidery." src=
+"images/image147.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_120" id=
+"page_120">[120]</a></span>
+
+<p>148.--<em>Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet
+Mat</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials for Pincushion: Jaconet muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16. For toilet mat: White
+piqu&eacute;; cotton No. 12.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_148"><img alt=
+"Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat." src=
+"images/image148.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The leaves and flowers are worked in satin stitch; the
+eyelet-holes and stems in overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_121" id=
+"page_121">[121]</a></span>
+
+<p>149.--<em>Corner for Handkerchief In Point Russe</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: French cambric, fine China black sewing-silk, or
+filoselle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_149"><img alt=
+"Corner for Handkerchief in Point Russe." src=
+"images/image149.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Point Russe stitch is made by a succession of back stitches.
+These stitches carefully follow every line of the design, and are
+worked in black China sewing-silk or filoselle. The pattern should
+be repeated at each corner of the handkerchief.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_122" id=
+"page_122">[122]</a></span>
+
+<p>150 <em>to</em> 152.--<em>Borders and
+Insertions</em>.--<em>White Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 30, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50; fine black
+sewing-silk.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_150"><img alt="Embroidered Border." src=
+"images/image150.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For the border No. 150, trace first the outlines of the scallop,
+then draw the threads which are to form the wheel in each scallop
+(take for this fine Mecklenburg thread, for the rest embroidery
+cotton), fasten them at the places where they cross each other, and
+work at these places small and large spots in satin stitch. Then
+work the scallops in button-hole stitch; edge each larger spot with
+button-hole stitch all round, and make a row of button-hole
+stitches for the upper edge of the border, and above this a row of
+herring-bone stitches. The material is cut away underneath the
+wheels.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_151"><img alt="Corner in Embroidery." src=
+"images/image151.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_152"><img alt="Corner in Embroidery." src=
+"images/image152.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The corner borders, illustrations 151 and 152, are worked in
+point Russe, chain and satin stitch, with fine black sewing
+silk.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_123" id=
+"page_123">[123]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_153"><img alt="Cravat End in Embroidery"
+src="images/image153.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_124" id=
+"page_124">[124]</a></span>
+
+<p>153.--<em>Muslin Cravat</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 50; No. 40 for the edges.</p>
+
+<p>This cravat is worked on fine muslin, embroidered upon both ends
+in raised satin stitch; the scalloped edge is worked in button-hole
+stitch; the bouquet in the centre is worked in appliqu&eacute;
+satin stitch--that is, the leaves of the rose and the foliage are
+worked separately on muslin; they are then cut out and worked in
+appliqu&eacute; (see Nos. <a href="#image_113">113</a> and <a href=
+"#image_116">116</a>, <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) upon the
+cravat, as seen in the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>154.--<em>Sandwich Case</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Strip of grey kid; strip of oil silk; 1 skein black
+silk; 1 skein red purse silk; 1 hank steel beads; steel button.</p>
+
+<p>This case will be found very useful on the occasion of a journey
+or picnic, as it can be carried in the pocket without any
+inconvenience.</p>
+
+<p>The case is made of a strip of grey kid, scalloped out at the
+edges. The words "Bon appetit," or "Good appetite," at will, are
+worked over it in overcast with black purse silk and steel beads,
+the scroll pattern in chain stitch with red silk. The back and
+front of the case are formed of the same strip, which is lined with
+oilskin, and to which narrow side-pieces are added to form the
+pocket. These pieces are lined and scalloped out in the same way as
+the back and front, and then the scallops of both sides are joined
+together, and worked round in button-hole stitch with purse
+silk.</p>
+
+<p>The case is fastened down with a steel button.</p>
+
+<p>If another colour is preferred, the sandwich case can be made of
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_125" id=
+"page_125">[125]</a></span>brown kid. The scroll pattern should
+then be worked in rich blue purse silk, and gold beads used for the
+letters, which should be embroidered as before in black silk. The
+edge may be worked in double overcast stitch in blue or black silk.
+A gold button must replace the steel when this alteration of colour
+is made.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_154"><img alt="Sandwich Case." src=
+"images/image154.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_126" id=
+"page_126">[126]</a></span>
+
+<p>155.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch between two rows
+of hem-stitching; a small eyelet-hole is worked in the centre of
+each flower.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_155"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image155.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>156.--<em>Cravat End in Raised Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s. embroidery cotton
+Nos. 50 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is a muslin cravat 32 inches long. The greater part
+of the embroidered ends is worked in satin stitch; the leaves in
+the bouquet of the centre are worked in raised embroidery. (See
+Nos. <a href="#image_113">113</a> and <a href="#image_116">116</a>,
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.)</p>
+
+<p>The dotted lines are raised by taking four threads of the muslin
+on the needle, draw it half out, wind the cotton twice round the
+point, holding it tightly under the thumb, draw the needle out and
+insert it at the place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out
+where the next stitch is to be worked.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_127" id=
+"page_127">[127]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_156"><img alt=
+"Cravat End in Raised Embroidery." src=
+"images/image156.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_128" id=
+"page_128">[128]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>157.--<em>Lady's Purse</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Russia leather; blue silk; black purse silk; blue
+silk soutache; fine gold braid; and gold thread.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_157"><img alt="Lady's Purse." src=
+"images/image157.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This purse is embroidered upon Russia leather; an oval-shaped
+medallion is cut out in the centre; a piece of blue silk is gummed
+on under the leather so as to show within the oval; both leather
+and silk are then lined with calico and stretched upon a small
+embroidery frame. The front and back of the purse are made all of
+one piece, the centre of which is the bottom; after the embroidery
+is completed a piece of leather is added on each side to give the
+necessary fullness. Four flowrets are worked over the blue silk,
+with black purse silk, in raised satin stitch, with a dot in gold
+thread for the centre. The stems are black and the leaflets gold.
+The inner border round the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_129"
+id="page_129">[129]</a></span>oval medallion is worked in gold
+braid, and the outer one in blue soutache. The network upon the
+leather is formed of threads of black purse silk, fastened at every
+crossing with a stitch of gold thread; the outer border round this
+network is formed entirely of gold braid. On the opposite side of
+the purse initials may be worked in black and gold, over the blue
+silk oval medallion.</p>
+
+<p>The purse is lined with brown watered silk, and mounted with a
+clasp of gilt steel.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>158.--<em>Table-Napkin Ring</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Crimson cashmere; <em>toile cir&eacute;e</em>; 1 reel
+each of white, black, green, blue, and yellow Chinese silk.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_158"><img alt="Table-Napkin Ring" src=
+"images/image158.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Stretch a strip of cashmere of a bright shade of crimson over a
+piece of <em>toile cir&eacute;e</em>, and work the pattern over it
+in point Russe with fine silk. The outer borders have white and
+black outlines, and leaflets of green silk. The stars have black
+and blue outlines, a yellow cross and dots. The figure between the
+stars is black and yellow.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_130" id=
+"page_130">[130]</a></span>
+
+<p>159 <em>and</em> 160.--<em>Knife Basket</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey American cloth; red cloth; black jet beads and
+bugles; red worsted braid, three-quarters of an inch wide; some
+strong wire; a cigar-box.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_159"><img alt="Knife Basket." src=
+"images/image159.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This basket is meant for holding dessert knives. It consists of
+a common cigar-box nine inches and two-fifths long, five inches and
+four-fifths wide, and two inches and one-fifth high, covered inside
+and out with grey American cloth, which is ornamented with
+embroidery worked in appliqu&eacute;. The seams are made in
+overcast stitch. The feet consist of four pieces of strong wire
+three inches and two-fifths long. These pieces of wire are first
+covered with wool, and then with jet beads; they are then bent into
+loops, and fastened on at the bottom of the box by means of holes
+bored into it for that purpose. The feet must be <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_131" id="page_131">[131]</a></span>
+fastened before covering the inside of the box. The inside of the
+basket is ornamented with an embroidered pattern in
+appliqu&eacute;, which must also be worked before covering the box.
+The leaves are made of red cloth, the stems and veinings of black
+bugles. No. 160 shows the pattern in full size; the flowers and
+leaves are edged with light grey purse silk, over which small
+stitches in black silk are fastened at regular intervals. Inside
+the box fasten a deal board covered on both sides with American
+cloth, so as to divide the basket into two compartments, and fasten
+on to this board a handle consisting of a piece of wire seven
+inches long, wound round with beads. The basket is ornamented with
+ruches of red worsted braid; between two box pleats of the ruche a
+black bugle is fastened.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_160"><img alt="Knife Basket." src=
+"images/image160.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_132" id=
+"page_132">[132]</a></span>
+
+<p>161.--<em>Satin Stitch Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Purse silk of two colours, in 4 shades of green and 4
+shades of red or magenta for the flowers, gold twist.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_161"><img alt="Fuchsia Spray." src=
+"images/image161.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This branch is embroidered with purse silk of the natural
+colours of the flowers and leaves, or in different shades of one
+colour, on silk canvas. Fuchsia blossoms are here designed, and
+should be worked in raised embroidery; the stamens to be worked in
+gold twist.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_133" id=
+"page_133">[133]</a></span>
+
+<p>162.--<em>Acacia Spray in Raised Satin Stitch
+Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Four shades of green purse silk for the leaves; 1
+skein of brown silk; 3 shades of white or gold silk for the
+flowers.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_162"><img alt="Acacia Spray." src=
+"images/image162.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This spray of acacia is worked in raised satin stitch
+embroidery; the flowers should be carefully shaded, and the
+veinings should be worked before the leaves are embroidered. The
+flowers may be worked gold colour, or imitate the white acacia
+blossom.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_134" id=
+"page_134">[134]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_163"><img alt="Tobacco Pouch." src=
+"images/image163.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_135" id=
+"page_135">[135]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_164"><img alt="Tobacco Pouch." src=
+"images/image164.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_136" id=
+"page_136">[136]</a></span>
+
+<p>163 <em>and</em> 164.--<em>Tobacco Pouch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine crimson cloth; bits of coloured and white cloth
+for the pattern; purse silk of various colours; white kid; brass
+rings; gimp cord; and silk tassels.</p>
+
+<p>This pouch is cut in four pieces, two of which are given in full
+size; the two others must be worked after the same patterns. These
+patterns represent the attributes of a lover of tobacco; they are
+cut out of cloth and worked in appliqu&eacute; over crimson
+cloth.</p>
+
+<p>In No. 163 the outer chain stitch border is green. The knot from
+which the different articles are suspended is black, the cigar-case
+yellow in cloth appliqu&eacute;, the cigars brown in satin stitch.
+The case is crossed by two rows of chain stitch in blue silk, and
+edged all round with button-hole stitch, also blue. The two pipes
+are of white cloth, edged round with yellow silk; the shade is
+imitated by long stitches of grey silk. The upper part of the pouch
+is of blue cloth, with a white silk edging and yellow dots; the
+under part of brown cloth with a black edging and a pattern worked
+in chain stitch with white; the three tassels are embroidered with
+black and yellow silk.</p>
+
+<p>In No. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the
+small pattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the
+pipes of white cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. The
+bundle of cigars is of brown cloth, shaded with black silk
+stitches, and fastened on with double rows of chain stitch in
+yellow silk. The cigar-case is of light green cloth, edged with
+white; the Grecian pattern and dots are embroidered over it with
+white silk also.</p>
+
+<p>To make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them
+together by seams, which are hidden under yellow <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_137" id="page_137">[137]</a></span>
+soutache; cut out also and join in the same way four pieces of
+white kid for the lining, and fasten it on to the crimson cloth at
+the top only. Sew small brass rings round the top, and pass a
+double piece of crimson silk cord through them. Add silk tassels of
+various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each of its four
+corners.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>165.--<em>Insertion</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_165"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image165.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat
+trimmings. It is worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in
+overcast stitch; the circles can be filled up with lace stitches or
+with wheels, or the pattern may be worked upon Brussels net and the
+linen cut away.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_138" id=
+"page_138">[138]</a></span>
+
+<p>166.--<em>Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks,
+Workbaskets, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glac&eacute;
+silk; gold beads.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked in French embroidery and point Russe,
+with coloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. The thimble, cotton,
+and ribbon are worked in appliqu&eacute; with glac&eacute; silk.
+The colours are chosen according to personal taste. The thimble is
+ornamented with small gold beads. A bead is placed in the centre of
+each pair of scissors to imitate the screw.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_166"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Needlebook, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image166.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_139" id=
+"page_139">[139]</a></span>
+
+<p>167.--<em>Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks,
+&amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads.</p>
+
+<p>The shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers
+in point Russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double
+overcast; the interior is filled with a netting worked in chain
+stitch or dotted stitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and
+beads; the ribbon is embroidered in appliqu&eacute;, with a
+contrasting shade of silk ribbon.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_167"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Needlebook, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image167.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_140" id=
+"page_140">[140]</a></span>
+
+<p>168 <em>and</em> 169.--<em>Travelling Bag</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 20 inches of Java canvas; single Berlin wool of 2
+shades of a pretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white;
+floss silk--white, brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse
+silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue, and grey; steel beads; brown
+silk fancy braid.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_168"><img alt="Travelling Bag." src=
+"images/image168.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it
+is very prettily worked. Besides the engraving showing the bag when
+completed, the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. This
+bouquet is also worked upon the Java canvas. For each petal the
+white wool is passed several times from one stitch of the canvas to
+another till the required thickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is
+worked at the point with white silk. The centres are filled up in
+point d'or with 2 shades of yellow silk. <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_141" id="page_141">[141]</a></span>The buds are made
+like the petals, but with 3 stitches of white silk at the point
+instead of 1. The leaves are worked in 2 shades of green wool with
+1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems are embroidered in
+overcast with light brown wool. The scroll-pattern border round the
+bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steel beads.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_169"><img alt="Bouquet for Travelling Bag."
+src="images/image169.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_142" id=
+"page_142">[142]</a></span>
+
+<p>The remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured
+purse silk. The 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk,
+by inserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas.
+When you have worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the
+other, work on either side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines
+of yellow silk, which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the
+Java canvas being covered by each stitch. Next to the inner yellow
+outline comes a border worked over two strips of the canvas, in
+slanting stitches; this border is alternately blue in one square
+and grey in the other. A star is embroidered in point Russe in the
+centre of each square; it is grey in the blue squares and blue in
+the grey; a steel bead is placed in the middle of each star. The
+small crosses between the squares are worked in cerise. The outer
+border of the work is composed of a piece of black soutache, edged
+with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. The front and back
+pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. The side pieces
+are made of plain Java canvas. The embroidered part measures 14
+inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined
+with <span class="newpage"><a name="page_143" id=
+"page_143">[143]</a></span> light brown silk, and made up with a
+steel clasp.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>170.--<em>Embroidery Trimming for Muslin Bodices</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine muslin; fine black silk; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a
+trimming. It is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked
+in button-hole stitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered
+with loose <span class="newpage"><a name="page_144" id=
+"page_144">[144]</a></span> button-hole stitch in black silk. The
+feather-like branches are worked likewise in black silk in
+herringbone stitch. The white spots are worked in raised
+embroidery. The large oval openings through which a narrow ribbon
+velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches:</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_170"><img alt="Trimming for Bodices." src=
+"images/image170.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>171, 172, <em>and</em> 173--<em>Toilet Cushion Cover in White
+Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin;
+if lined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. The
+patterns, which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked
+in point d'or; the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine
+double overcast. The flower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear
+raised on illustration on account of the dark shadows, are worked
+separately and sewn on at the corresponding places. No. 172 shows
+the wing of a bird, No. 173 a rose-leaf somewhat increased in size;
+the former is worked entirely in button-hole stitch, or trimmed
+with a ruche of coloured ribbon. This pattern may also be worked on
+glac&eacute; silk with purse silk.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_145" id=
+"page_145">[145]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_171"><img alt=
+"Wing of Bird,Rose Leaf,Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery."
+src="images/image171.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_146" id=
+"page_146">[146]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_174"><img alt="Pattern for Glove Box." src=
+"images/image174.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>174 <em>and</em> 175.--<em>Glove Box</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 15 inches of French blue cashmere; silks of various
+colours. A shape in bamboo cane, painted brown and varnished.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_175"><img alt="Glove Box." src=
+"images/image175.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_147" id=
+"page_147">[147]</a></span>
+
+<p>The ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. It is
+embroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. Part of
+the embroidery pattern is given in full size. All the outlines are
+worked in overcast, the stitches being made rather long and
+slanting, and the small leaves are each composed of one stitch, as
+in point Russe. The leaves are alternately red and yellow upon a
+green stem; the scalloped outline which has no leaves is red. The
+pine patterns are worked in satin stitch--the centre one is green,
+edged with red; the side ones are pink, edged with red; the small
+wing-like figures are black, edged with maize; the diamond, maize,
+edged with black, with an outer rim of maize. In the round pattern
+the centre is pink; the edge red, with red and yellow leaves; the 3
+outer circles are successively white, green, and <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_148" id="page_148">[148]</a></span> red; at
+the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow, the
+side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green.</p>
+
+<p>The strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk,
+slipped through the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined
+together at the side by a seam. The cover is lined with plain blue
+cashmere, upon which initials might be embroidered at discretion.
+The four corners are ornamented with pretty silk tassels, of
+colours to match with the embroidery. To fasten the box, sew on a
+blue ribbon to the cover, and one to the box.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>176 <em>and</em> 177.--<em>Hanging Letter Case</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and
+fine gold bouillon.</p>
+
+<p>No. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size,
+No. 177 the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full
+size.</p>
+
+<p>The letter case is composed of two parts. The larger part is 11
+inches long, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with
+a pattern in gold soutache, and the word LETTERS or LETTRES
+embroidered in gold bouillon; underneath there is a pattern
+embroidered in oval white satin beads, edged round with fine white
+chenille; the scroll pattern is embroidered in gold bouillon.</p>
+
+<p>The second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and
+forms the pocket which contains the letters. The centre flower is
+composed of 11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another
+white bead is placed in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon.
+The other flowers are also composed of white satin beads, edged
+with gold bouillon.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_149" id=
+"page_149">[149]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_176"><img alt="Hanging Letter Case." src=
+"images/image176.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_150" id=
+"page_150">[150]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_177"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Embroidered Letter Case." src=
+"images/image177.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_151" id=
+"page_151">[151]</a></span>
+
+<p>178.--<em>Embroidered Edging</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 24</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_178"><img alt="Embroidered Edging." src=
+"images/image178.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This edging is worked in broderie Anglaise or overcast stitch;
+the edge in scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in
+raised satin <span class="newpage"><a name="page_152" id=
+"page_152">[152]</a></span> stitch. The stems are worked in
+slanting overcast stitch (No. 122, <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>).</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>179.--<em>Border in Oriental Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright
+red, 2 shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_179"><img alt=
+"Border in Oriental Embroidery." src=
+"images/image179.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting
+colours. These ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. The
+outer row of the first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright
+red. Following the same arrangement, the second oval is of two
+shades of green; the third of two shades of blue; and the fourth of
+two shades of yellow. The knotted stitch in the centre is violet.
+The dots outside the ovals are worked in satin stitch, and are
+alternately red, yellow, violet, and blue. The stems are long
+stitches of black silk. The arabesque patterns between those formed
+of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silk <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_153" id="page_153">[153]</a></span> of two
+shades of brown. The colours of the ovals may be varied as much as
+you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns should
+remain the same for the whole of the border.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>180 <em>and</em> 181.--<em>Embroidery Stars</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>These stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen
+collars and cuffs. No. 180 is worked in successive rows of
+back-stitching, round an open wheel; ladder stitch (see No. <a
+href="#image_81">81</a>, <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) is
+worked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms
+the edge.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_180"><img alt="Embroidery Star." src=
+"images/image180.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_181"><img alt="Embroidery Star." src=
+"images/image181.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the
+star is filled with lace wheels.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>182 <em>and</em> 183.--<em>Key Bag</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glac&eacute;
+silk; purse silk of 5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and
+silver-grey, scarlet, and white; grey silk cord; grey glac&eacute;
+silk ribbon.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_154" id=
+"page_154">[154]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_182"><img alt="Key Bag." src=
+"images/image182.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_155" id=
+"page_155">[155]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_183"><img alt="Key Bag." src=
+"images/image183.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. The
+embroidery imitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves,
+and stems, in the upper part of which sits an owl, "the bird of
+night." <span class="newpage"><a name="page_156" id=
+"page_156">[156]</a></span> The poppies are worked with blue-green
+purse silk in 5 shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown
+silk of 4 shades in satin stitch, the colours blending one into the
+other, as can be clearly seen in illustration No. 182. The eyes of
+the owl are embroidered in scarlet and white silk. Illustration No.
+183 shows the other side of the bag, which is ornamented with
+steel-coloured silk appliqu&eacute; figures, in the form of a
+Gothic lock. They are edged with fine grey silk cord. The screws of
+the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery with silver-grey
+silk. After having lined each part, join the two halves of the bag
+with a border of grey glac&eacute; silk ribbon, which must, of
+course, continue round the revers. The bag is fastened by means of
+a loop and steel button.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>184 <em>and</em> 185--- <em>Embroidery Patterns for Trimming
+Cravats, Bodices, Morning Caps, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_184"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image184.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin or cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No.
+24 for lingerie, No. 12 for couvrettes.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_157" id=
+"page_157">[157]</a></span>
+
+<p>These patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for
+trimming various articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares
+they make pretty covers. They can also be embroidered with coloured
+silk, wool, or thread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming
+couvrettes and toilet pincushions. The patterns should be
+embroidered in satin stitch and edged with chain stitch; they can
+also be worked in button-hole stitch. When the pattern is worked on
+woollen material this material must be cut away inside the leaves
+and spots.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_185"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image185.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>186 <em>and</em> 187.--<em>Pen-Wiper in Cloth
+Appliqu&eacute;</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small
+white, and 4 red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of
+cloth; small black beads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory
+handle or figure.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of
+cloth. No. 187 is one of these circles seen in full size. There are
+4 white and 4 red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. In
+the centre of each red circle place a white, and in the centre of
+each white circle a red <span class="newpage"><a name="page_158"
+id="page_158">[158]</a></span> star, and work a cross over it with
+small round black beads. The border, in herring-bone stitch, is
+worked with gold-coloured purse silk on the red, and with black on
+the white cloth. The centre of the pen-wiper is covered with a
+circle of white cloth larger than the side ones, worked in point
+Russe and point Mexico in black silk. When all the circles are
+prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth, placing
+alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, and
+between each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the
+edge. The work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined
+with black <span class="newpage"><a name="page_159" id=
+"page_159">[159]</a></span> glazed calico, and a small handle of
+carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in the centre. The
+circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_186"><img alt="Pen-wiper in Embroidery."
+src="images/image186.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_187"><img alt=
+"Full-sized Circle for Pen-wiper." src=
+"images/image187.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>188.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_188"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image188.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin
+stitch round an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the
+stars are worked in point Russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which
+surround each flower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished
+with a row of hem-stitching on each side.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>189.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 24.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch;
+the dots and stems should be worked first, and the leaves
+afterwards. It is edged on both sides with a row of
+hem-stitching.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_160" id=
+"page_160">[160]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_189"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image189.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>190.--<em>Cigar Case</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk;
+gold thread.</p>
+
+<p>The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light
+brown Russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in
+well-raised satin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter
+outlines shown in the illustration are worked in gold thread. The
+border to be worked in fine silk cord of the same colour as the
+leather, with a network of black purse silk, stitched with gold at
+all the crossings. On the opposite side of the cigar case initials
+may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fine
+leather, and the mountings gilt or steel.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_161" id=
+"page_161">[161]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_190"><img alt="Cigar case" src=
+"images/image190.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_162" id=
+"page_162">[162]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>191.--<em>Wicker Waste Paper Basket</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth
+fringe; and glazed calico.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_191"><img alt="Waste Paper Basket." src=
+"images/image191.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern.
+It rests upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can
+be made by any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room.
+The trimming consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed
+calico, and put on round the edge; the lower part of the border is
+trimmed with a woollen <span class="newpage"><a name="page_163" id=
+"page_163">[163]</a></span> fringe. The shades selected should
+correspond with the prevailing colour of the room.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_192"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image192.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>192.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_164" id="page_164">[164]</a></span>
+stitch, and embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted
+line is worked in raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers
+which compose the centre wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in
+overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_193"><img alt="Embroidered Linen Collar."
+src="images/image193.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>193 <em>and</em> 194.--<em>Embroidered Linen Collars</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_165" id="page_165">[165]</a></span>
+No. 194 is worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see
+Nos. 81, 82, 76, and 73 of <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>), and
+point d'or with white cotton, and point Russe with black silk. No.
+193 is worked entirely with white cotton in button-hole, satin,
+knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (See Nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and
+68 of <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.)</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_194"><img alt="Embroidered Linen Collar."
+src="images/image194.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_166" id=
+"page_166">[166]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_195"><img alt=
+"What-not in the Shape of a Hammock." src=
+"images/image195.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>195 <em>and</em> 196.--<em>What-not</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades
+of green floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of
+yellow floss silk; green chenille; cord and tassels.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_167" id=
+"page_167">[167]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_196"><img alt=
+"Pattern for What-not (full size)." src=
+"images/image196.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant
+to place upon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when
+completed, No. 196 one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size;
+it is worked upon fine <span class="newpage"><a name="page_168" id=
+"page_168">[168]</a></span> canvas. The violets are in floss silk
+of three shades of violet, with a raised spot worked in yellow silk
+in the centre, the leaves are worked in Berlin wool of various
+shades of green, and the stems in overcast of a light green shade.
+The pattern is grounded in tent stitch with sea-green silk. The
+hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece cut out in
+cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined and
+quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top
+with green chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the
+hammock is fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off
+with tassels.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>197.--<em>Embroidered Handkerchief</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a
+handkerchief, which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn.
+The design is simple, but effective, and very easy to work. If
+worked on fine French cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly
+tacked upon <em>toile cir&eacute;e</em>. The rows of raised dots
+should be worked first, and then the graceful branches of pointed
+leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots might be worked in
+bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. To produce a
+good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40 will
+be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourning
+wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or
+the leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in
+filoselle.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_169" id=
+"page_169">[169]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_197"><img alt="Handkerchief Border." src=
+"images/image197.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_170" id=
+"page_170">[170]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>198 <em>and</em> 199.--<em>Two Medallions for a Purse in
+Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold
+silk; steel or gold clasp.</p>
+
+<p>These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may
+be employed on a variety of articles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_198"><img alt=
+"Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery." src=
+"images/image198.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_199"><img alt=
+"Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery." src=
+"images/image199.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in
+satin <span class="newpage"><a name="page_171" id=
+"page_171">[171]</a></span> stitch, the branched sprays in point
+Russe in scarlet and gold, the four largest being in scarlet and
+the intermediate sprays in gold silk. Medallion No. 199 is worked
+entirely in point Russe, and may be embroidered in one colour, or
+in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, or scarlet and
+black.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>200.--<em>Work-Bag</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different
+colours; embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red
+silk braid; red cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of
+light-coloured leather.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_200"><img alt="Work Bag." src=
+"images/image200.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The
+outside consists of drab cloth, trimmed with appliqu&eacute;
+embroidery. The inside of the bag is slightly wadded and lined with
+red satin, which is quilted in diamonds. The seams are covered with
+red braid, and a leather strap completes the whole. Cut out a good
+pattern in paper, and then cut the <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_172" id="page_172">[172]</a></span> satin and wadding and the
+drab cloth which forms the outside. After having traced the pattern
+on the cloth, work it with small pieces of coloured cloth in
+appliqu&eacute; embroidery. The different figures are sewn over the
+centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches, with
+embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in
+chain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a
+pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge
+must be bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed
+in. The ends of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the
+inside is wadded and lined with red satin; the outside worked in
+appliqu&eacute; embroidery like the rest of the bag. All the seams
+are covered with red silk cord. The straps are fastened with a few
+stitches, as seen in the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>201 <em>to</em> 203.--<em>Pattern for Braces</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_201"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Braces (full size)." src=
+"images/image201.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico
+ornamented with embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on
+either side with <span class="newpage"><a name="page_173" id=
+"page_173">[173]</a></span> loose button-hole stitch and crochet
+vandykes in red wool. Illustration 201 shows part of the
+embroidered braces, full size. Work first the embroidery of the
+braces, then line them with calico; work loose button-hole stitch
+and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the cross bands as well as
+at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on the tabs for the
+braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter are then edged
+with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. The vandykes are
+worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole stitch, * 1
+purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next button-hole
+stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole stitch,
+repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red
+button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No.
+203 shows another <span class="newpage"><a name="page_174" id=
+"page_174">[174]</a></span> way of working these braces on fine
+ribbed piqu&eacute;. Work any Berlin wool work pattern in the
+common cross stitch over the ribs of the piqu&eacute;. For the
+vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double
+divided by 3 chain stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_202"><img alt="Embroidered Braces." src=
+"images/image202.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_203"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Braces (Full size)." src=
+"images/image203.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>204.--<em>Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and
+silver brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and
+gold thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre.
+The dark patterns are worked in appliqu&eacute; with black velvet,
+the two other shades in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is
+worked in satin stitch with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of
+the same material. The border can also be worked upon the material
+for the centre if it is not intended to contrast with it. The
+pattern can also be worked entirely in silk with satin stitch. The
+size of the border may, of course, be increased if desired, but the
+third pattern in the darkest shade must, in any case, form the
+centre of it.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_175" id=
+"page_175">[175]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_204"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Border for a Reading Desk." src=
+"images/image204.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_176" id=
+"page_176">[176]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_177" id="page_177">[177]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_205"><img alt=
+"Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery." src=
+"images/image205.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_178" id=
+"page_178">[178]</a></span>
+
+<p>205.--<em>Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+6 and No. 12; net and muslin.</p>
+
+<p>The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked
+over net. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the
+veinings are sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the
+muslin is then cut away all round the pattern.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>206.--<em>Venetian Border.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+12 and No. 16; net and muslin.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_206"><img alt="Venetian Border." src=
+"images/image206.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This design is elegant and effective, without there being a
+great deal of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening
+dresses or handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net,
+sewn neatly over, and then cut away between the pattern, leaving
+the net for the ground work.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_179" id=
+"page_179">[179]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_207"><img alt="Lace Insertion." src=
+"images/image207.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_180" id=
+"page_180">[180]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>207.--Lace Insertion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net.</p>
+
+<p>This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the
+net; the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are
+worked in overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning
+across the circle previously outlined; the lace stitches in the
+centre are formed by gently enlarging the net holes with a fine
+stiletto, and then sewn lightly round, the remaining holes being
+filled with lace stitches consisting of fine button-hole stitches,
+very evenly worked over the entire space surrounding the open
+holes.</p>
+
+<p>To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed.
+This pattern may be worked in appliqu&eacute; by placing muslin
+over net, sewing all the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when
+finished, carefully cutting away the muslin.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>208 <em>and</em> 209.--<em>Slipper on Java Canvas.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle
+and purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide;
+some wadding; 2 cork soles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_208"><img alt="Slipper on Java Canvas." src=
+"images/image208.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of
+light <span class="newpage"><a name="page_181" id=
+"page_181">[181]</a></span> brown Java canvas, and embroidered in
+point Russe with green filoselle. It is lined with green silk, and
+slightly quilted. The soles are of cork. The slipper is trimmed all
+round with a ruche of green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch
+wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is turned down inside.
+No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitch nearly full
+size.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_209"><img alt=
+"Point Russe Stitch for Slipper (No. 208)" src=
+"images/image209.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>210 <em>and</em> 211.--<em>Medallions in Point Russe</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or
+silk.</p>
+
+<p>These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers,
+cushions, borders, &amp;c. They are worked with coloured filoselle
+in point Russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted
+stitch, on cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of
+both medallions contrasts with the colour of the ground, and must
+therefore be worked in appliqu&eacute; on the latter with
+herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border. The wreath on
+No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which imitate small
+blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is left to the
+personal taste of the worker.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_182" id=
+"page_182">[182]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_210"><img alt="Medallion in Point Russe."
+src="images/image210.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_211"><img alt="Medallion in Point Russe."
+src="images/image211.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_183" id=
+"page_183">[183]</a></span>
+
+<p>212.--<em>Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: French lawn or cambric; fine black silk.</p>
+
+<p>This butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in
+order more closely to imitate etching. It is worked in point Russe
+and scallop stitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in
+button-hole scallop stitch, the stitches being taken very closely
+together, but not raised by the usual method of placing chain
+stitches beneath the button-hole stitches. The outlines and flowers
+are worked in point Russe, the dot in knotted stitch (see No. 73,
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.)</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_212"><img alt=
+"Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner" src=
+"images/image212.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch,
+and should be worked with great regularity.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_184" id=
+"page_184">[184]</a></span>
+
+<p>213 <em>to</em> 215.--<em>Pattern for a Couvrette in
+Appliqu&eacute;</em>. (<em>see pages <a href=
+"#page_576">576-7</a></em>.)</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos.
+24 and 30; cambric muslin; Brussels net; flesh-coloured silk;
+sewing silk of the same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue
+silk; brown silk; gold thread.</p>
+
+<p>This style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed
+covers. It is worked in cambric muslin and silk, over Brussels
+net.</p>
+
+<p>The arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the
+outlines are embroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away
+all round. The medallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon
+them are cut out of flesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon
+tissue-paper, then upon the blue silk; the figures are further
+fastened upon the medallions in overcast stitch with fine silk of a
+rather darker shade of flesh-colour. The scarfs are cut out of
+bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver and arrows and all the other
+attributes are worked in gold thread; the hair in fine brown silk.
+The edge of the blue silk medallions is worked round in button-hole
+stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when the couvrette has to
+be cleaned. A border in open ladder stitch is worked round them
+(see No. 81, <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>). The openings in the
+centre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<h2>CROCHET</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_185" id=
+"page_185">[185]</a></span> <a name="CROCHET_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+
+<h3>CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<center><a name="image_c"><img alt="A Crochet Needle" src=
+"images/imagec.jpg"><br>
+<small>A Crochet-Needle</small></a></center>
+
+<p>Cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the
+materials required for working crochet. The needle, whether it be
+steel or bone, must be smoothly polished. The long wooden and bone
+crochet-needles are used for wool; for cotton and silk work short
+steel needles screwed into a bone handle are best. The beauty of
+the crochet-work depends upon the regularity of the stitches, as is
+the case with every other style of needlework. The stitches must be
+elastic, but if too loose they look as bad as if too tight. The
+size of the needle and that of the cotton or wool must correspond;
+work only with the point of the needle, and never move the stitch
+up and down the needle. The cotton with which you work must be of
+the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes, imitation
+of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes,
+counterpanes, covers, &amp;c., use knitting-cotton. All
+crochet-work <span class="newpage"><a name="page_186" id=
+"page_186">[186]</a></span> patterns are begun on a foundation
+chain; there are three kinds of foundation chains--the plain
+foundation, the double foundation, and the purl foundation
+chain.</p>
+
+<p>The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_216"><img alt="Plain Foundation Chain." src=
+"images/image216.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 216.--Form a loop with the cotton or other material
+with which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as
+for knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand.
+The crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and
+forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the
+cotton of the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left
+hand, wind the cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle
+underneath the cotton from left to right, catch the cotton with the
+hook of the needle and draw it as a loop through the loop already
+on the needle, which is cast off the needle by this means and forms
+one chain stitch. The drawing the cotton through the loop is
+repeated until the foundation chain has <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_187" id="page_187">[187]</a></span> acquired sufficient
+length. When enough chain stitches have been made, take the
+foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand,
+so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of the
+needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the
+needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a
+loop.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_217"><img alt="Double Foundation Chain."
+src="images/image217.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 217 (<em>The Double Foundation
+Chain</em>).--Crochet 2 chain stitches, insert the needle downwards
+into the left side of the 1st chain stitch, throw the cotton
+forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the
+needle and draw it through the two loops on the needle, * draw the
+cotton as a loop through the left side of the last stitch (see
+illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it
+through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation
+chain is long enough.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_218"><img alt="Purl Foundation Chain." src=
+"images/image218.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 218 (<em>Purl Foundation Chain</em>).--* Crochet 4
+chain stitch, then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round
+the needle, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the
+1st of the 4 chain stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw
+it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and
+at the same time draw the cotton through the last loop and through
+the stitch formed by winding the cotton round the needle. Wind the
+cotton once more round the needle, and draw it through the 2
+remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain stitches form a kind of
+scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_188" id="page_188">[188]</a></span> crochet
+stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they are
+all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234.
+Make a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described
+(No. 216), and take it on the needle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_219"><img alt="Slip Stitch." src=
+"images/image219.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 219 (<em>Slip Stitch</em>).--Draw the needle
+through the back part of a foundation chain stitch, or in the
+course of the work through the back part of a stitch of the
+preceding row, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it
+through the stitch and loop on the needle. The illustration shows a
+number of slip stitches, the last of which is left quite loose; the
+arrow marks the place where the needle is to be inserted for the
+next stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_220"><img alt="Double Stitch." src=
+"images/image220.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 220 (<em>Double Stitch</em>).--These are worked
+nearly like the preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through
+the back part of a stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and
+draw it through the two loops on the needle.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_189" id=
+"page_189">[189]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_221"><img alt="Double Stitch." src=
+"images/image221.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like
+the preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in
+the following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a
+stitch of the preceding row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_222"><img alt="Ribbed Stitch." src=
+"images/image222.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 222 (<em>The Ribbed Stitch</em>).--This stitch is
+worked backwards and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides
+are worked together, which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle
+always into the back part of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at
+the end of every row, which is not worked, however, in the
+following row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_223"><img alt="Slanting Stitch." src=
+"images/image223.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_190" id=
+"page_190">[190]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 223 (<em>Slanting Stitch, double
+stitch</em>).--This stitch is worked like that described in No.
+220; the cotton is not wound round the needle the first time in the
+usual manner, but the needle is placed in the direction of the
+arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as a loop; the
+stitch is finished like the common double stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_224"><img alt="Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image224.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 224 (<em>Cross Stitch</em>).--This stitch is worked
+like No. 223 on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle
+through the two upper sides of a stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_191" id=
+"page_191">[191]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_225"><img alt="Long Double Stitch." src=
+"images/image225.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Illustration 225 (<em>Long Double</em>).--For this stitch wind
+the cotton round the needle, insert it into the back part of a
+stitch, draw the cotton out as a loop, wind the cotton again round
+the needle, and cast off together the two loops and the loop formed
+by winding the cotton round the needle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_226"><img alt="Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image226.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 226 (<em>Treble Stitch</em>).--These stitches are
+worked as has been described for the purl foundation chain, No.
+218. The treble stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the
+stitches of the preceding row.</p>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 227 (<em>Long Treble</em>).--These are worked like
+treble stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle;
+the double <span class="newpage"><a name="page_192" id=
+"page_192">[192]</a></span> long treble (illustration 228) is
+worked by winding the cotton three times round the needle. The
+loops formed by winding the cotton round the needle are cast off
+one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The two loops that
+remain at the end are cast off together after winding the cotton
+round the needle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_227"><img alt="Long Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image227.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_228"><img alt="Double Long Treble Stitch."
+src="images/image228.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_193" id=
+"page_193">[193]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_229"><img alt="Cross Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image229.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<center><a name="image_230"><img alt="Cross Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image230.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<br>
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (<em>Cross Treble</em>).--Illustration 229
+shows this stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in
+the course of the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as
+for a long treble, insert the needle into the stitch in which the
+first half of the cross treble is to be worked, wind the cotton
+round the needle, draw the cotton through as a loop, wind the
+cotton again round the needle and cast off together with the same
+the loop on the needle and the loop formed by throwing the cotton
+forward; you have now 3 loops left on the needle, 1 of which has
+been formed by winding the cotton round the needle; missing these,
+wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the 2 next stitches of
+the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the third stitch. You
+have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2 loops at a time
+till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain stitches (if
+you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting, work 1, 2, or
+3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of foundation
+chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown by the
+arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble
+stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_194" id=
+"page_194">[194]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_231"><img alt="Cross Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image231.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_232"><img alt="Raised Spots." src=
+"images/image232.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 232 (<em>Raised Spots</em>).--The grounding on
+which these spots are worked consists of double crochet. They are
+worked across 3 rows of the ground, and formed of treble stitches,
+the spots of one row being placed between those of the preceding.
+Work first 2 rows of double stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2
+double stitches and then 1 spot as follows:--1 treble, inserting
+the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of the first row (the
+preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only completed so
+far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_195" id="page_195">[195]</a></span>
+stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only
+completed as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd
+treble there remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle
+(see illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding
+the cotton once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss
+under the spot the next double stitch of the preceding row; the
+spots are repeated at intervals of 5 stitches and in every other
+row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_233"><img alt="Hollow Spots." src=
+"images/image233.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 233 (<em>Hollow Spots</em>).--The ground is worked
+in double crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear
+raised, consist of 5 treble stitches; they are worked in every
+other row at intervals of 5 stitches. For working them leave 1 loop
+on the needle, insert the needle between the 2 long sides of the
+last-worked double stitch, and work 5 treble stitches, always
+inserting the needle into the front part of 1 stitch of the
+preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely without
+taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth treble
+stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton
+round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the
+spot.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_196" id=
+"page_196">[196]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_234"><img alt="Open-work Spots." src=
+"images/image234.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 234 (<em>Open-work Spots</em>).--These spots are
+treble stitches divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the
+latter; for the rest, they are worked like the raised spots
+(illustration 232).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_235"><img alt="Raised Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image235.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 235 (<em>Raised Treble Stitch</em>).--These
+stitches are long treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration
+222), and are thrown across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble
+are always worked on the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_197"
+id="page_197">[197]</a></span> same side of the work and in the
+long side of the corresponding stitch of the last row but two.
+After every row with treble stitch comes a row in ribbed stitch. At
+the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the treble stitches
+begin only in the 4th row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_236"><img alt="Purl Stitch." src=
+"images/image236.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 236 (<em>Purl Stitch</em>).--These purl stitches
+imitate a lace edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the
+loop to a certain length (this forms the purl), take the needle out
+of it, insert it in the front part of the last stitch which has
+been worked (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle
+and draw it through as a loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_237"><img alt="Purl Stitch." src=
+"images/image237.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 237 (<em>Purl Stitch turned upwards</em>).--Work 1
+treble, then 7 chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the
+7 chain stitch <span class="newpage"><a name="page_198" id=
+"page_198">[198]</a></span> downwards, so that the chain stitches
+form a scallop upwards (see illustration), wind the cotton round
+the needle and draw the cotton through; work 1 chain stitch and 1
+treble in the next stitch but 3, missing 3 stitches under it.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_238"><img alt="Purl Stitch." src=
+"images/image238.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 238 (<em>Purl Stitch turned downwards</em>).--The
+chain stitches form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked
+the 7 chain stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it
+underneath the upper chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to
+left, and draw it through the loop in the direction of the arrow.
+Wind the cotton round the needle and cast all the loops off
+together. It is evident that the purl stitches may be worked at
+larger or smaller distances.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_199" id=
+"page_199">[199]</a></span> <a name="CROCHET_PATTERNS"></a>
+
+<h3>CROCHET PATTERNS</h3>
+
+<p>239.--<em>Small Crochet Basket</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1
+ball of pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_239"><img alt="Small Crochet Basket." src=
+"images/image239.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>For the bottom:</em>Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it,
+work 3 long, 3 chain, and repeat three times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em>Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3
+chain, work 3 long <span class="newpage"><a name="page_200" id=
+"page_200">[200]</a></span> into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain,
+work 3 long into the same place, make 3 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3
+chain of last round.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other
+3rd chain by working twice into it.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>For the leaves:</em> Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work
+a row of 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver
+twine.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in
+1st row, make 1 chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long,
+with a chain stitch between each), repeat on the other side of the
+chain, 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch alternately.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> With pink: Work over a wire in double
+crochet 1 stitch into each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same
+way, join each leaf half way, then sew it to the centre, work a row
+of double crochet 1 yard in length, and twist it for the handle.
+This should also be crocheted over wire.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>240 to 243.--<em>Couvrette in Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+10, and steel crochet needle.</p>
+
+<p>This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles
+representing dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242
+shows one of these large circles in full size, No. 241 one of the
+small circles placed in the spaces between the larger ones, No. 243
+part of the border, and No. 240 the couvrette when completed, but
+in reduced size.</p>
+
+<p>For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it
+into a circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 30 stitches of double crochet over the
+circle of chain stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 36 stitches of double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> The same as the preceding--the 1 double
+always on the 3rd chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the
+centre stitch of each loop.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_201" id=
+"page_201">[201]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_240"><img alt="Couvrette in Crochet." src=
+"images/image240.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_202" id=
+"page_202">[202]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>6th to 12th round:</em> The same as the 5th, close double
+crochet, increasing in the centre of each small scallop, which
+forms the 18 raised petals of the dahlia.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round:</em> Here begins the open-work border round the
+dahlia. Work 1 double between 2 petals, taking together the 2
+centre stitches, 1 double in the next, 5 chain. There will be 18
+loops of 5 chain in the round.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th to 17th round:</em> 1 double in centre of each loop, 5
+chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>18th round:</em> 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1
+treble in next loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3
+double, with 3 chain between each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same
+all round, and the large circle is completed. Six of these are
+required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_241"><img alt=
+"Showing one of the small Circles full size of No.240." src=
+"images/image241.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it
+into a round.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 16 stitches of close double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double
+between. This <span class="newpage"><a name="page_203" id=
+"page_203">[203]</a></span> completes 1 of the 6 small circles
+placed round the large ones in the centre of the couvrette. The 6
+that are placed between the 5 other large circles have 1 more
+round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in the centre of 1
+scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3 chain
+between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_242"><img alt=
+"Showing one of the large Circles full size of No. 240." src=
+"images/image242.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_204" id=
+"page_204">[204]</a></span>
+
+<p>When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen
+in illustration 217, and work the border as follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a
+small circle, 8 chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble
+in 3rd trefoil, 8 chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1
+long treble in 1 trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the
+4 next trefoils of the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain,
+1 long treble in the last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain.
+Repeat all round.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first
+stitch of last round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain
+between next stitch. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd and 4th rounds:</em>The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble
+always in 1 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain
+between the 2nd and 3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> The same as the 5th.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of
+the treble, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the
+couvrette.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_243"><img alt="Border for Couvrette." src=
+"images/image243.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_205" id=
+"page_205">[205]</a></span>
+
+<p>244.--<em>Star in Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 80,
+or with No. 8 or 10 for couvrettes.</p>
+
+<p>A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty
+strips of insertion. For this purpose they should be worked with
+fine cotton. They may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and
+cravats, the material being cut away underneath. If worked with
+crochet cotton No. 8 or 10, they will make nice couvrettes,
+bed-quilts, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_244"><img alt="Star in Crochet." src=
+"images/image244.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70
+stitches, and join it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work
+1 extra long treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle
+under the chain, then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2
+extra long double, miss <span class="newpage"><a name="page_206"
+id="page_206">[206]</a></span> 4, and work 1 double, inserting the
+needle <em>under</em> the 5th. Repeat 13 times from * Fasten off,
+and for the centre of the star work as follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double
+in the next 7 chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus
+forming 1 loop. Repeat from * 5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 12 double on the first loop of chain of the
+first branch, 1 double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip
+the stitch which is upon the needle in one of the stitches of the
+foundation chain of the outer circle, work 1 double in the first of
+the 2 chain last made, then 12 double in the remaining loop of
+chain of the branch, and 1 double at the bottom of the branch.
+Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre star must be joined on to
+the outer circle at regular distances.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>245.--<em>Crochet Silk Bag over Rings</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse
+purse twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the
+bag and strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks
+that are left; rings.</p>
+
+<p>Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and
+fasten off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour
+take a ring and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take
+a second ring, and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting
+off the silk, work over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work
+on the other side of the rings to correspond, join the first and
+last ring together, and sew in the centre ring; this completes the
+1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, 3 rose colour,
+with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab with rose centre, 3
+black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate colours to the 1st
+circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to the
+corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_207" id=
+"page_207">[207]</a></span> the other 6 circles in the following
+manner: join one ring to the second from the one that was sewed to
+the 1st circle, join the next ring to the corresponding one of the
+next circle (which will be the one opposite to the one sewed in the
+1st circle), and repeat, joining the other 5 in the same way.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_245"><img alt="Crochet Silk Bag." src=
+"images/image245.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_208" id=
+"page_208">[208]</a></span>
+
+<p>For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it,
+work 4 long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single
+stitch to the centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle,
+make 2 chain, work 4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a
+stitch of single crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2
+chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long
+into the same place, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single
+crochet to the next ring, make 2 chain, and join it to the first of
+the long stitches; this completes the diamonds; work 5 more,
+joining them in the same way, then work over 12 rings, and join one
+on each side of every diamond; this completes the lower part of the
+bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of double crochet
+to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st round:
+Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work 12
+more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain
+stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match
+one of the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from
+the silk that is remaining after working the crochet.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>246.--<em>Crochet Sovereign Purse.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured
+ditto; a few steel beads; and a steel clasp.</p>
+
+<p>The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the
+raised rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being
+dotted with steel beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are
+worked, increasing where necessary, to make the work lie flat; then
+4 rows of loops of chain in coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick
+double crochet, threading the beads first on the silk, and pushing
+them up to the stitches when required.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_209" id=
+"page_209">[209]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_246"><img alt="Crochet Sovereign Purse."
+src="images/image246.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the
+little <span class="newpage"><a name="page_210" id=
+"page_210">[210]</a></span> raised piece worked in treble crochet,
+inserting the hook on the <em>upper</em> side of the stitches.
+Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both sides of the
+purse are finished they should be joined together (except where the
+clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with beads.
+This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without the
+least difficulty from the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>247.--<em>Stars in Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8
+or 20.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover,
+according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.</p>
+
+<p>Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In
+the 1st stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st
+stitch, repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the
+4th of the 8 chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st
+stitch. Now work (without cutting the cotton) the branches, which
+are begun from the centre.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st branch.--1st round:</em> 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th,
+so as to form a purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2
+chain between, missing 2 stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the last of the 18 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with
+1 purl between over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2
+chain, 1 purl, 7 double over the next 5 chain; then, on the other
+side of the branch, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double
+with 1 purl between, 2 double on the last 2 chain of the branch, 1
+slip stitch in the stitch from which the leaf was begun, 5 double
+over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the second branch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_211" id=
+"page_211">[211]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>1st round of the 2nd leaf:</em> 22 chain, 1 double in the
+last so as to form a circle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_247"><img alt="Stars in Crochet." src=
+"images/image247.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in
+the next stitch work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point,
+1 double in each <span class="newpage"><a name="page_212" id=
+"page_212">[212]</a></span> of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip
+stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st round.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more,
+then work in double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with
+1 chain between, then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as
+the 1st. Before beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain
+stitches of the circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the
+2 above explained; cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the
+point of one of the branches, in order to join them together by the
+two following rounds:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 1 double in the point of one of the leaves,
+* 4 chain, 1 purl under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the
+chain with the crochet to the right, insert the needle downwards in
+the first chain, and make a slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4
+chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the point of the
+next leaf, repeat from * five times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl
+as usual--that is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain.
+Now work 1 trefoil (thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1
+chain, 1 double in the 1 double coming just before the 3 purl). 1
+double on each of the next 4 chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double,
+1 trefoil, repeat five times from *.</p>
+
+<p>Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the
+illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>248.--<em>Crochet Purse over Rings.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of
+maize coarse purse silk.</p>
+
+<p>Work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches;
+this is the centre ring for the bottom of the purse.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_213" id=
+"page_213">[213]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_248"><img alt="Crochet Purse over Rings."
+src="images/image248.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_214" id=
+"page_214">[214]</a></span>
+
+<p>Then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take
+another ring and work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6
+rings, then work round the other half of each ring 19 stitches; and
+when the 6 are finished, join the first to the last to make a
+circle; sew the maize ring into the centre of it, then work over 12
+rings with black in the same manner, and place them outside the
+cerise circle. Then work over 16 rings with maize colour, and join
+them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; they are to stand
+up to form the sides of the purse. Work over 16 rings with cerise,
+and these you can join one to each of the former rounds in working
+the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. Work
+over 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the
+cerise. For the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of
+the ring a stitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the
+stitch joining the 8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain,
+repeat. Then work 4 rounds of single open crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> * Work a stitch of double crochet and 1
+chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a
+long stitch, make 1 chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch,
+make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1
+chain, work a long stitch into the next loop, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em>Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2
+chain, work another long stitch into the same place, * make 1
+chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last
+round, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 1 chain, * work a
+stitch of double crochet into the next 1 chain, make 1 chain,
+repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long
+stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place,
+make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1
+chain, work a 4th long <span class="newpage"><a name="page_215" id=
+"page_215">[215]</a></span> stitch into the same place, * make 1
+chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, repeat
+from * 3 times more, miss the next 2 stitches of double crochet, *
+work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain,
+repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em> Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2
+chain, work another long stitch into the same place, repeat the
+stitches of double crochet with 1 chain between, as in last round,
+then repeat from the beginning. 10th and 11th rounds the same as
+the 9th. Add a tassel at the bottom, and strings run into the last
+row of open crochet complete the purse.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_249"><img alt="Crochet Brioche Cushion."
+src="images/image249.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>249.--<em>Crochet Brioche Cushion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 10 skeins of 12-thread fleecy, of six shades of red
+(these should be most of the darker shades); 2 skeins of white
+ditto; 1 skein of white filoselle.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_216" id=
+"page_216">[216]</a></span>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 196 stitches with the darkest shade of red wool,
+and join it into a circle.</p>
+
+<p>Work 1 round of raised spots thus:--Turn the wool 5 times round
+the needle, insert the needle in 1 chain, and draw it through all
+the loops, then work 1 slip stitch, insert the needle in the next
+stitch, work 1 double, and begin a fresh spot. Continue in the same
+way all round.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Divide the round into 7 parts; work 12 spots
+with the 3rd shade of red, always working 1 double between each
+spot, and taking care to place them between those of preceding
+round: after 12 spots, work 1 double, then 12 more, and so on.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 3rd shade of red, 11 spots, 1 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 4th shade, 10 spots, 3 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 5th shade, 9 spots, 5 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> Same shade, 8 spots, 7 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 5th shade, 7 spots, 9 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Same shade, 6 spots, 11 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em> Same shade, 5 spots, 13 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th round:</em> 6th shade, 4 spots, 15 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th round:</em> Same shade, 3 spots, 17 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th round:</em> Same shade, 2 spots, 19 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round:</em> Same shade, 1 spot, 21 double. The pattern
+of raised spots being now completed, continue to work with the
+lightest shade of red in double stitches, decreasing once above
+each pattern, so as to close up the circle gradually. The white
+flowers are worked over the plain part of the cushion with white
+wool, and silk for the petals, and a black dot in the centre. The
+cushion is stuffed with horsehair and lined with glazed calico. A
+round of thick pasteboard is stitched in at the bottom, to make it
+stand firmer.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: For a large couvrette, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Boar's Head cotton No. 8; for pincushion covers, mats, and
+such-like small articles, Boar's Head cotton No. 16 or 20.</p>
+
+<p>A pattern of this description is most useful, as it can be
+converted to <span class="newpage"><a name="page_217" id=
+"page_217">[217]</a></span> so many purposes. Counterpanes,
+couvrettes of every description, mats, pincushions, and a thousand
+other things can all be arranged from the design.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_250"><img alt=
+"Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette." src=
+"images/image250.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Each circle is made separately, and joined to the others, as the
+last row is crocheted. Begin in the centre; make 8 chain, insert
+the needle in the first, and make * a long treble stitch, then make
+3 chain, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_218" id=
+"page_218">[218]</a></span> repeat 4 times from *, always inserting
+the needle in the 1st chain stitch, join the last chain to the 5th
+of the 1st 8 chain to close the round.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 1 double crochet, * 9 chain, turn, work
+a slip stitch in each of the 9 chain; work round the stem thus made
+in close crochet, working 3 stitches in 1 to turn at the point;
+miss 1 stitch of preceding row, work 2 double crochet, and repeat
+from * 5 times more, making 6 petals in all.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Work at the back of the last row, behind the
+petals; make 1 petal between each petal in last row, 1 double
+crochet at the back of each, and cut the cotton at the end of the
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 2 double crochet at the point of each of the
+12 petals, 5 chain between each petal.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 2 treble, 5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th and last round:</em> 1 double crochet in the centre of
+the 1st 5 chain, * 5 chain, 1 treble in the centre of the next 5
+chain, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the top of the treble stitch, 6
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, a 3rd slip stitch
+in the same place, 5 chain, 1 double crochet in the centre of the
+next 5 chain, repeat from * to the end of the round. There should
+be 12 trefoil patterns in the round.</p>
+
+<p>For the couvrette join the circles together, as shown in
+illustration, in working the last round. As many circles can be
+added as may be required for the couvrette.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>251.--<em>Crochet Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40
+or 60.</p>
+
+<p>This lace produces a very good effect when worked with fine
+cotton. Make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st
+row entirely in double stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> * 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, miss 1
+stitch under it; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_219" id=
+"page_219">[219]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 long treble in the 3rd stitch of the
+preceding row, * 3 purl (each consisting of 5 chain, 1 double, in
+the 1st of the same), 1 long treble in the same stitch of the
+preceding row, 1 purl, miss 3, 3 double in the 3 following
+stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, 1 long treble in the 4th stitch;
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_251"><img alt="Crochet Lace." src=
+"images/image251.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> * 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of
+the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 long treble divided by 3 purl in the
+middle of the 3 next double in the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat
+from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> * 2 long treble, divided by 3 purl in the
+middle of the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl, 3 double
+in the middle of the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl;
+repeat from *. Repeat the 4th and 5th rows alternately till the
+border is wide enough.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_220" id=
+"page_220">[220]</a></span>
+
+<p>252.--<em>Crochet Border</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12,
+16, 24, or 40.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_252"><img alt="Crochet Border." src=
+"images/image252.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This border is suitable for a great variety of purposes,
+according to the size of the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it
+will make a trimming for couvrettes and berceaunette covers; with
+fine cotton it can be used for children's clothes, small curtains,
+&amp;c. Make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work</p>
+
+<p><em>the 1st row:</em> * 2 treble divided by 3 chain in the 1st
+foundation chain stitch, miss 3; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> * In the 1st scallop of the preceding row, 1
+double, 5 treble, 1 double, then 1 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip
+stitch in the 1st of the four), 1 chain, miss under these the next
+chain stitch scallop; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 treble in the chain stitch on either side of
+the purl in the preceding row, 5 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> * 2 double divided by 7 chain in the two first
+treble of the preceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper
+parts of the stitch), 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these
+10 stitches so as to form a loop, 4 chain, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> * 1 slip in the middle stitch of the scallop
+formed by 7 chain <span class="newpage"><a name="page_221" id=
+"page_221">[221]</a></span> in the preceding row, 4 treble, 3
+chain, 5 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble, all these 13 stitches in the
+loop of the preceding row, so as to form a clover-leaf pattern;
+repeat from *, but fasten the 4th treble with a slip stitch on the
+10th treble of the preceding figure.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> In the first and last stitch of the 5 middle
+treble of the clover-leaf 1 double, 7 chain between, 7th row: * 1
+double in the 2nd chain stitch of the scallop which is above the 5
+middle treble of the clover-leaf, 2 chain, 1 purl (5 chain, 1 slip
+stitch in the 1st), 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch of
+the same scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, miss one chain of the
+scallop, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the next
+chain stitch, 3 chain. 1 double in the middle stitch of the
+following scallop, 3 chain, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_253"><img alt="Crochet Border." src=
+"images/image253.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>253--<em>Crochet Border</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 24,
+40, or 60, according to the article for which it is required.</p>
+
+<p>On a sufficiently long foundation chain work the 1st row: 1
+double in each chain stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_222" id=
+"page_222">[222]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Alternately 1 double, 7 chain, miss under the
+latter 3 stitches of the preceding row.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 treble in each double of the preceding row,
+1 double in the middle stitch of each scallop, 2 chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> 1 double on each double of the preceding row,
+1 treble on each treble, 3 chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> 1 double on each treble of the preceding row,
+3 chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> 1 double in each stitch of the preceding
+row.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> * 1 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding
+row, 4 chain, miss 1, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, miss 3
+stitches, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, 4 chain, miss 1
+stitch, 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 4; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Repeat regularly 8 treble in the scallop
+formed of 4 chain in the preceding row, 1 double in the middle of
+the following 3 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding
+row, 2 treble, 1 long treble in next treble but 2, 2 long treble in
+each of the 2 following treble, 1 long treble, 2 treble in the next
+treble, 1 double in the next treble but 2, 3 chain, 1 purl (4
+chain, 1 slip), 3 chain stitch; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding
+row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, miss 2 under them, 1 double, 2
+chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain but 1 of the
+next scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the 2 chain
+stitch after the purl of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2
+chain; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> In each scallop of the preceding row 2 double
+(they must meet on either side of the purl); they are divided
+alternately by 5 chain, and by a scallop formed of 2 chain, 1 purl,
+and 2 chain, only in the chain stitch scallops which join the two
+treble figures work no double, but 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_223" id=
+"page_223">[223]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>254 to 257.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with
+Crochet.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Berlin wool in two colours.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_254"><img alt=
+"Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet." src=
+"images/image254.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The seat and back of this arm-chair are covered with two round
+couvrettes, worked in crochet with Berlin wool of two colours. They
+are fastened on the chair with woollen braid, finishing off with
+tassels of the same colour. Begin each couvrette in the centre with
+a foundation chain of 6 stitches, with the lightest wool; join them
+into a circle, and work the 1st round in the following manner:--12
+double.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next stitch of
+the 1st round, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_224" id=
+"page_224">[224]</a></span> inserting the needle in the upper part
+of the stitch; repeat from * 11 times more; at the end of this
+round work 1 slip stitch in the 1st chain of this round. We shall
+not repeat any more the repetitions from * to the end of the
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * 4 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of
+the preceding round; at the end of the round 4 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 4 double in each scallop of the preceding
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Begin to work with the darker wool and
+crochet slip stitch, inserting the needle in the front chain of the
+stitches of the 4th round.</p>
+
+<p>The 6th round is worked once more with light wool, and consists
+entirely of double stitch, worked by inserting the needle at the
+back of the stitches of the 4th round, so that the slip stitches
+appear raised on the right side of the work, and form a round of
+chain stitches. The middle part of the couvrette is then
+finished.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_255"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Arm Chair Border." src=
+"images/image255.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_256"><img alt="Border for Arm Chair (254)."
+src="images/image256.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_225" id=
+"page_225">[225]</a></span>
+
+<p>Illustration 257 shows it in full size.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> * 2 chain, missing 1 stitch of the preceding
+round under them, 1 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of
+the preceding round.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em>3 double in each scallop.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th round:</em> like the 5th;</p>
+
+<p><em>11th round:</em> like the 6th;</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_257"><img alt=
+"Couvrette for Arm Chair (254)." src=
+"images/image257.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th rounds, like the 7th--11th;</p>
+
+<p>17th--19th rounds like the 7th--9th.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th round:</em> Alternately 1 treble with the light wool, 1
+treble with the dark; but every treble stitch must be cast off with
+the wool of the colour of the next stitch; that is, a light treble
+stitch with the dark wool, and a dark treble stitch with the light
+wool. Now and then crochet 2 treble stitches in one stitch of the
+preceding round, so that the couvrette remains perfectly flat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_226" id=
+"page_226">[226]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>21st round:</em> 1 double in every stitch.</p>
+
+<p>The 22nd--31st rounds consist of a double repetition of the
+7th--11th rounds.</p>
+
+<p>The 32nd and 33rd rounds are made in open work like the 7th and
+8th rounds.</p>
+
+<p>The 34th round is worked in treble stitches like the 20th round.
+Then work the outer border. It consists of chain stitch scallops
+which are worked alternately with dark and light wool. Illustration
+No. 256 shows a part of the border with the treble round in full
+size. Work from it with the light wool 1 double on 1 light treble
+stitch of the preceding round, 5 chain, 1 double, on the next light
+treble, throw the wool off the needle and let it hang over the
+right side of the work; crochet with the dark wool 1 double on the
+treble stitch between the 2 double of this round, leave the wool on
+the right side of the work; 5 chain, 1 double, on the next dark
+treble. Take the needle again out of the loop, draw the wool on to
+the right side, and work the next chain stitch scallop again with
+the light wool.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of this border, pattern No. 255 may be worked. It
+consists of 3 rounds to be worked after the 34th round of the
+couvrette.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round of the border:</em> With dark wool, * 1 double in
+1 stitch, of the 34th round; 1 double, 3 treble, 1 double, in the
+next stitch; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> With the light wool, * 1 treble, inserting
+the needle in the next treble stitch of the 34th round, thus
+working over the double stitch between the spots of the preceding
+round; 1 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * 3 double in each chain stitch of the
+preceding round. To work the 2nd of these 3 double, insert the
+needle at the same time in the upper part of the middle treble of
+the 1st round.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Dark wool, * 1 double in each double of the
+preceding round, miss 1, and work 3 treble in the next stitch but
+one; the last of these <span class="newpage"><a name="page_227" id=
+"page_227">[227]</a></span> 3 treble is cast off with light wool,
+miss 1, and continue to work with the light wool 1 double in the
+next stitch but one, miss 1, 3 treble in the next stitch, cast off
+the last with the dark wool, miss 1; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>258 to 260.--Crochet Insertions.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30,
+40, or 60.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_258"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image258.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These insertions are worked with crochet cotton of sizes which
+depend upon the use you wish to make of them. The insertion seen in
+illustration 258 is worked the long way in 8 rows. Make a
+sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row as
+follows:--1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 5
+chain, miss 3, 1 double in the next stitch but 3, repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em>1 slip stitch in the middle of the 1st 5 chain,
+* 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain,
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_228" id=
+"page_228">[228]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 treble in the 1st stitch, * 1 leaf worked as
+follows: 6 chain, then without noticing the loop left on the needle
+1 long treble in the 2nd and 1 in the 1st of the 6 chain; these
+stitches are not cast off separately, but together with the loop
+left on the needle. Then 5 chain, miss 7, 1 treble in the 8th
+stitch, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> 1 double in the 1st of the 5 chain, * 8 chain,
+1 double in the 1st of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> * 1 leaf as in the 3rd row, 1 double in the
+double stitch of the preceding row, 5 chain, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> 1 treble in the point of the 1st leaf, * 7
+chain, 1 treble in the point of the next leaf, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th and 8th rows:</em> Like the 1st and 2nd.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_259"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image259.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The insertion seen in illustration 259 is worked in 6 rows, and
+is begun in the centre on a foundation chain sufficiently long not
+to be worked too tight.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 4 double in the 1st 4 stitches, * 4 double
+divided in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain,
+inserting the needle in the 1st row into the 2 chain. Illustration
+260 shows an insertion which imitates darned netting; it is worked
+on a grounding imitating netting with raised figures. The grounding
+consists of 9 rows. Work on a sufficiently long foundation chain
+the 1st row as follows: 1 cross <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_229" id="page_229">[229]</a></span> treble in the 1st and 3rd
+stitch, * 2 chain, missing 2 stitches under them, 1 cross treble in
+the 6th and 8th stitch, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, miss 4
+under them, 1 double in the 5th stitch, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd to 8th rows:</em> 1 double in the middle stitch of every
+chain stitch scallop, 4 chain between. 9th row: Like the 1st. Work
+from illustration square patterns on this grounding, consisting
+each of 4 leaves; for these leaves carry on the cotton taken double
+in double windings from 1 double stitch to another, so as to have 4
+threads lying close to each other; darn these as can be seen in
+illustration, with single cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_260"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image260.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>261.--<em>Crochet Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No.
+30.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_261"><img alt="Crochet Lace." src=
+"images/image261.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>A particular kind of purl makes this border look very like
+guipure lace. Begin with a foundation chain worked in the following
+manner:--* 3 chain, the last of them forms 1 purl; this is made by
+drawing out a long <span class="newpage"><a name="page_230" id=
+"page_230">[230]</a></span> loop on the needle, taking the needle
+out of the loop, inserting it in the chain stitch before the last
+one, drawing the cotton through it, and continuing to work so that
+the loop out of which the needle has been drawn forms 1 purl. All
+the purl must be equally long; to do this more easily the loop may
+be kept on the needle till a chain stitch has been worked in that
+which comes just before the purl, continue the foundation chain,
+and repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 long double in the 1st stitch of the
+foundation, * 1 chain, 1 slip stitch in the nearest purl of the
+foundation chain; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 1 chain,
+missing 1 stitch under it; 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch of the
+preceding row; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Like the 1st.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 5 chain,
+1 purl, 1 chain, missing 5 stitches under them; 1 double in the 6th
+stitch; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> 1 long double in the 1st stitch, 3 chain, 1
+purl, 1 chain, * 1 double in the middle of the next 5 chain of the
+preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th to 9th rows:</em> Alternately like the 4th and 5th
+rows.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 6 chain, 1
+double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the needle) in
+the 1st of these chain stitches; the stitch is only completed so
+far as still to leave 2 loops on the needle; 1 double long treble
+in the same chain stitch. This stitch is cast off so as to leave in
+all 3 loops, and the cotton over the needle; these loops are cast
+off together by drawing the cotton once through them. This forms 1
+leaf, or one-half of the bell-shaped patterns. 3 purl, 1 chain, 1
+leaf like the preceding one, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the first
+6 chain stitches; the other half of the pattern is then completed;
+1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of
+the next scallop of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1
+chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop.
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_231" id=
+"page_231">[231]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the
+preceding row, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl of
+the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the following
+purl, 1 purl (the 3 purl which are worked on the 3 purl of the
+bell-shaped pattern are made in this row and in the following one
+as follows:--Crochet 1 chain after the slip stitch, leave it for 1
+purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip stitch), 1 purl, 5
+chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the
+following scallop, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. 12th row: 3
+purl on the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 3 chain between, 1
+purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of
+the next 5 chain stitches, 1 bell-shaped pattern like those of the
+10th row, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>CROCHET D'OYLEYS IN IMITATION OF POINT LACE.</p>
+
+<p>262--<em>D'Oyley No</em>. 1.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, unite it.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_232" id=
+"page_232">[232]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> * 1 double crochet, 9 chain, repeat from * 7
+times more, 1 double crochet, unite it to the 1st stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 3 single crochet up the 3 1st of the chain in
+last row, *, 5 long into the loop of 9 chain, 1 chain, repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 long into the 1 chain in last round, 9
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 11 double crochet into the 9 chain in last
+round, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, 5 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> The same as 6th.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> * 1 double crochet, 4 chain, repeat from * 5
+times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 4 long, and
+1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet over the double crochet in
+1st round, 6 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 6 chain in last round 1 double
+crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet over the one in 3rd round, 8
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Into the 8 chain 1 double crochet, 8 long, 1
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in 5th round, 10
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> Into the 10 chain 1 double crochet, 10 long, 1
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in 7th round, 12
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> Into the 12 chain 1 double crochet, 12 long,
+1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 11:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in 9th round, 14
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 12:</em> Into the 14 chain 1 double crochet, 14 long,
+1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 13:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in 11th round, 14
+chain, repeat. Work 3 patterns of No. 2 for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it. Into the
+circle 1 double crochet, *, 2 long, 3 chain, repeat from * twice
+more, 2 double long, 4 chain, 2 double long, * 3 chain, 2 long,
+repeat from * twice more, 1 double crochet, 7 chain. Repeat from
+the beginning. In working the 2nd pattern, join it to the 1st with
+the 2nd 3 chain, work 3 leaves in this manner, then make only 3
+chain, and work a 4th leaf without joining it to the 3rd, make 3
+chain after 4th leaf, and work a stitch of double crochet into last
+7 chain, make 3 chain. Work a 5th leaf, and join it to the 4th as
+before, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 7 chain, 3 chain.
+Work a 6th leaf in the same way, and join it; but make no chain
+stitch after the 6th leaf. Work 3 patterns of No. 3 for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_233" id=
+"page_233">[233]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 4.--The same as No. 3, only work 4 leaves instead of 6, 2 on
+each side. Work 3 patterns of No. 4 for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 5.--Work the 3 1st leaves of No. 3 This is not repeated in
+this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_262"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 1." src=
+"images/image262.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 6.--Make a chain of 15 stitches, and unite it. Work into the
+circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double, 6 long, 5 chain, 6
+double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet, 7 chain, joining the 7th
+long stitch to the corresponding stitch in 1st leaf, 3 chain. Work
+the 3rd leaf the same as the 1st without joining it to the 2nd, 3
+chain, 1 double crochet into <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_234" id="page_234">[234]</a></span> the 7 chain, 3 chain,
+work a 4th leaf, and join it to the 3rd, 3 chain, and join it to
+the 1st stitch of double crochet at the beginning of the 1st leaf.
+This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 7.--Tie a round of cotton about this size O.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 20 double crochet into the round.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into successive loops, work 2
+into 3rd loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> Into the 5 chain in last round 2 long, 5
+chain, 2 more long stitches into the same place, 2 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1
+double crochet, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in
+this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 8.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 28 double long into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet between each long in last
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 3 long into the 2 chain, 1 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 chain in last
+round, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 9.--1st row: Make a chain of 30 stitches, work 1 long stitch
+into the 6th, *, 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, 1 long into the
+next, repeat from * to the end of the row.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 11 chain, *, 1 double crochet on the other
+side of the chain into the centre one of the 3 between the long
+stitch, 1 chain, turn, and work into the 11 chain 3 double crochet
+and 9 long, 11 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, work into the
+chain stitches at the end 3 loops of 11 chain with the double
+crochet and long stitch as before, then work the other half of the
+pattern to correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Into the space between the long stitches 5
+double crochet, 2 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in
+this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_235" id=
+"page_235">[235]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 10.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Into the circle 24 double long, with 1 chain
+between each.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into the 1 chain in last
+round, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last
+round, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 11.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 20 long into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet, 6 chain, miss 2 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet into the 6 chain, 7 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 10 double crochet into the 7 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 long, 2 long into the next loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 3 loops,
+repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 12.--Make a chain of 21 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 30 double crochet into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> *, 21 chain, join it to the 18th, work into
+the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2
+long, 7 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long and 1
+double crochet, 1 single crochet into the 1st double crochet, 3
+chain, 4 double crochet into the 3 chain, 2 chain, 6 double crochet
+into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3
+chain, 4 double crochet into the same place, 2 chain, 6 double
+crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4 double crochet into the 3
+chain, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the stitches of double
+crochet at the end, 3 single crochet down the 3 for the stem, 9
+single crochet into successive loops round the circle, repeat from
+* twice more. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 13.--*, make 9 chain stitches, turn, 1 double crochet into
+each loop, repeat from * twice more, then work round both sides of
+these 3 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_236" id=
+"page_236">[236]</a></span> points 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss
+1 loop at the top of each point, work twice into the same loop,
+then 5 chain, 1 double crochet into each end, unite the 5th to the
+last of the centre point of 9. This pattern is not repeated in this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 14.--<em>Round 1:</em> * make a chain of 13 stitches, and
+unite it, repeat from * 4 more times.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into 6 successive loops, 3
+stitches into the 7th, 1 into each of the next 6 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the centre 1 of the 3 in last, 7 chain, miss 6, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat. This pattern is not repeated.</p>
+
+<p>No. 15.--*, make a chain of 19 stitches, unite it, 3 long into
+successive loops, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain,
+1 double crochet into the next loop, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into
+the same place, 5 chain, work into successive loops 1 double
+crochet, 2 long, 3 double long, 3 long, unite the last to the
+first, 9 chain, repeat from * once more, then 5 double crochet into
+the 5 1st of the 9 chain, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each, and
+1 into each of the 4 remaining of the 9 chain. This pattern is not
+repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 16.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, *, work into successive
+loops 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, 2 more double
+crochet into the same loop as the last, repeat from * once, make a
+chain of 24 stitches, unite to the 20th, work into the circle, *, 1
+long, 3 chain, 1 long, repeat from * 12 times, work into the 3
+chain 1 long, 3 chain, work another long into the same place,
+repeat, join the last with 1 single crochet to the last of the 24
+chain, 2 double crochet over the 2 of the leaf, 7 long into
+successive loops, 4 double long into successive loops, 4 long into
+the next loop, and 1 long into the next. This pattern is not
+repeated. When all these pieces are done, join them as shown in the
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_237" id=
+"page_237">[237]</a></span> engraving, sewing them firmly together
+with the same cotton, then work an edging round in the following
+manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 double long into the 4 chain at the point of
+the leaf of No. 4 pattern, 7 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3
+chain in the same leaf, 8 chain, 1 double long into the 1st 3 chain
+of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4
+chain of No. 6 pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of the
+next leaf in the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5
+chain from the join of the 11th pattern, 6 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the 2nd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 6 chain, 1 long into
+the 2nd 5 chain from the last, 12 chain, work into the 2nd 5 chain
+from the join of the 7th pattern 1 long, 8 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the next 5 chain, 9 chain, 1 long into the next 5 chain, 8
+chain, 1 double crochet in the 1st 3 chain from the join of 4th
+pattern, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd
+leaf of the same pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3
+chain of the same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain
+of No. 5 pattern, 6 chain, 1 long into the 7 chain between the
+leaves of the same pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 7 chain,
+6 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of the 3rd leaf of the same
+pattern, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 of double
+crochet from the join of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the centre of the 2nd 5 double crochet from the last, 11
+chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd 5 of double crochet from the
+last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of 15th pattern,
+7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 6th long stitch of the same
+leaf, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the end of the stem of 15th
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 double long into the 1st 3 chain of the 4th
+pattern, 4 chain, 1 double long into the last 3 chain of the same
+leaf, 9 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3 chain of the 2nd leaf,
+12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 3 chain of No. 16 <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_238" id="page_238">[238]</a></span>
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of the same pattern
+from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join
+of the 10th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the
+last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre of the 7 of double
+crochet in 12th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 5 double crochet
+of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain in
+centre of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the
+join of the 8th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5
+chain from the last, 10 chain, 1 double long into the 3rd 5 chain
+from the stitch of single, 13 chain, and join it to the double long
+stitch at the beginning of the row.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> *, 12 chain, and unite it, 1 chain to cross,
+and on the other side into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3
+chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 double long, 4 chain, then work down the
+other side to correspond, 8 double crochet into successive loops of
+the foundation, repeat from *, joining the leaves in the 1st 3
+chain.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>263.--D'Oyley No. 2.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet, 2 double crochet into the
+next loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 9 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 9 double crochet into successive loops,
+beginning on the 5th of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_239"
+id="page_239">[239]</a></span> the 9 in last round, 5 chain, 1
+single crochet into the last double crochet, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 9
+in last round, 11 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> 15 double crochet into the 11 chain in last
+round, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> 15 double crochet into successive loops,
+beginning on the 8th of the 15 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the last double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 11:</em> 1 double crochet into the centre one of the
+15 in last round, 17 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 12:</em> 21 double crochet into the 17 chain in last
+Round.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_263"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 2." src=
+"images/image263.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_240" id=
+"page_240">[240]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> *, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the circle,
+repeat from * twice more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 12 long into the 7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 2 long into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 2 long into the 2 chain in last round, 1
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 5 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6
+double long, 4 chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 2 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 long and repeat, 4
+long at the point, finish with a single stitch, 3 chain, and repeat
+this once more.</p>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, chain of 15
+and unite it, chain of 13 and unite it, work 6 double crochet into
+successive loops, beginning on the 1st of the 1st loop of 13, 3
+into the next loop, and 1 into each of the 6 next, 1 double crochet
+into each of the 1st 7 of the loop of 15, 3 into the next, 1 into
+each of the next 7, 1 double crochet into each of the 6 1st of the
+next loop of 13, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 5.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Into the circle 3 double crochet, 3 long, 3
+double long, 5 treble long, 3 double long, 3 long, 3 double
+crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into each of the 9 1st loops,
+2 into each of the 2 next, and 3 into the next, 2 into each of the
+2 next, and 1 into each of the 9 next.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 long, *, 3 chain, 1 long into the next loop,
+repeat from * at the end, unite the last to the 1st stitch, 9
+chain, repeat from the beginning; in uniting the last stitch of the
+2nd <span class="newpage"><a name="page_241" id=
+"page_241">[241]</a></span> leaf, take up the centre stitch of the
+9 chain with it, make 5 chain, and work a 3rd leaf in the same
+manner; in uniting the last stitch of the 3rd leaf, take up the
+last of the 5 chain with it, make 9 chain, turn, and work 1 double
+crochet into each, join the last to the last of the 5 and 9 chain
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p>No. 6.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 5 chain, repeat
+5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, 1
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1st double crochet
+in last round, 7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 7 chain in last round 2 double
+crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet
+in last round, 11 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Into the 11 chain in last round 3 double
+crochet, 9 long, 3 more double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 7.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Make a chain of 20 stitches. 1 long into the
+15th, *, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from *
+to the end of the row.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Turn, into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 2
+long, 1 double crochet, repeat this to the end, then into the 5
+chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 1 double
+crochet, work the other side to correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet
+in last row, 7 chain, and repeat to the point, 7 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the double long, work the other side to
+correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Into the 7 chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1
+single into the last double crochet, 4 more double crochet into the
+same place, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 8.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 chain of 7 stitches, 1 double crochet into
+each of the 6 1st, 3 stitches into the 7th, work on the other side
+of the chain to correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 5 double crochet into the 3 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_242" id=
+"page_242">[242]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 9.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 3 in the 1st d'oyley, only 5 leaves instead of
+6, 2 on each side, and 1 at the end; 2 of these will be required
+for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 10.</p>
+
+<p>Work the 2 1st leaves of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley; 3 of these
+will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 11.</p>
+
+<p>Work only 1 leaf of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley. This is not to be
+repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 4 in 1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 13.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 5.</p>
+
+<p>No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 8 in 1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 15.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 10.</p>
+
+<p>No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 11 in the 1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 17.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 2 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be
+required.</p>
+
+<p>No. 18.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No 6 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required.
+When all these pieces are done, sew them firmly together, and work
+the edging round in the following manner:--1 double crochet into
+the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the
+last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3
+chain of 2nd leaf, 10 chain, 1 double crochet in the 4 chain of
+same leaf, 8 chain, 1 long into the 4th of the 5 chain, from the
+joining of 15th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5
+chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the last, 12
+chain, 1 long into the last 3 chain of 10th pattern, 3 chain, 1
+double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 4 chain of 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 1st
+double crochet from the join of No. 6 pattern, 9 chain, 1 long into
+the next stitch of double crochet after the long stitch, 16 chain,
+1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of 14th pattern, 8 chain,
+1 double crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_243" id="page_243">[243]</a></span>
+chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of double
+crochet, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 12 chain, 1
+double crochet into the 4 chain of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the last 3 chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into
+the 1st 14 chain from the join of 17th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long
+into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 14 chain, 1 long into the
+4th 5 chain from the join of 16th pattern, 6 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 6 chain, 1 long into the
+2nd 5 chain from last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 4
+chain of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3
+chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain
+of 2nd leaf, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 2nd
+leaf, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 10th
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of same
+pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd
+leaf, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 11th pattern,
+9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same pattern, 8
+chain, 1 long into the centre 3 chain of 1st leaf of 12th pattern,
+7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf same
+pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf,
+10 chain, 1 long into the 5th 3 chain from the join of the 3rd
+pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 3 chain, 4 chain, 1
+long into the 2nd 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the
+1st 14 chain from join of 17th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the
+next 14 chain of same pattern, 10 chain, and unite. 2nd row: The
+same edging as to 1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_244" id=
+"page_244">[244]</a></span>
+
+<p>264.--<em>D'Oyley No. 3.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 3
+in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 4 in same d'oyley, and 1
+pattern from No. 5, 2 patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, 1
+pattern from No. 7, 1 pattern from No. 8; and 1 from No. 10 in same
+d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 11 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No.
+2 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern
+from No. 9 in same d'oyley, and 2 from No. 10.</p>
+
+<p>Then 1 pattern in the following manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Make a chain stitch of 12 stitches, 1 double
+crochet, 10 long into successive loops, 1 double crochet, 1 double
+crochet at the point, and work down the other side to
+correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 long into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into
+the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 3rd
+round, 5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Work 1 pattern in this way, 1 chain of 14, 1 double crochet into
+each, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last double crochet, turn,
+6 double crochet into the circle, with 3 chain between each, into
+each 3 chain, 5 long, turn, 1 double crochet between each of the 5
+long, with 6 chain between each double crochet, turn, into the 1st
+double crochet 1 long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 treble
+long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 long all into the same
+place, 1 double crochet into the 6 chain. Repeat this 5 times more,
+then work down the 7 of 14, 7 long, and 7 of single crochet. The
+edging to be the same as in the former d'oyleys. The 1st round of
+the edging takes up so much space to write, that we think it better
+to leave it to the judgment of the worker. It <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_245" id="page_245">[245]</a></span> will be
+seen by the engraving when it is necessary to work a double long or
+long stitch, or a stitch of single or double crochet, and the
+number of chain stitches between must be just sufficient to make
+the circle perfect. The best way is to cut a round of blue paper
+and place them on it from the engraving, then sew them together,
+and tack them to the paper, and work the 1st row of the edging
+before removing the paper.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_264"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 3." src=
+"images/image264.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_246" id=
+"page_246">[246]</a></span>
+
+<p>265.--<em>D'Oyley No. 4.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Work 3 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 1
+pattern from No. 4, 1 pattern from No. 5 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns
+from No. 6, and 1 from No. 8 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2
+in 2nd d'oyley, and 1 leaf from No. 3 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern
+from No. 11 in 2nd d'oyley, and the following pattern.</p>
+
+<p>No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 29 double
+crochet into successive loops, turn, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 2
+double long, 8 treble long into 4 loops, 8 double long, 9 long, 4
+double crochet, 3 chain, work down the other side to correspond,
+then 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all round.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 20 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 2 double crochet
+into successive loops, * 2 chain, miss two loops, 1 long into the
+next, repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 3 double
+crochet into successive loops, 1 double crochet into every loop on
+both sides.</p>
+
+<p><em>Next round:</em> * 5 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, 1 double
+crochet, 3 long, miss 2 loops of the foundation, 1 double crochet,
+repeat from * at the point, miss only 1 loop, work 2 patterns of
+this number.</p>
+
+<p>No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 36 stitches, turn, miss 2 loops, 2 long, *, 1
+chain, 3 long, repeat from * 3 times, 1 double crochet, turn, *, 4
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st chain stitch, repeat from * 3
+times, at the point make 5 chain instead of 4, work down the other
+side to correspond, turn, and into each of the 4 chain 1 double
+crochet, 7 long, and 1 double crochet, at the point 10 long instead
+of 7, 2 double <span class="newpage"><a name="page_247" id=
+"page_247">[247]</a></span> crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 28,
+turn, miss 12 loops, 1 single crochet, then into the circle 20
+long, turn, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, 1
+double crochet into the 5 chain in last row, 5 chain, repeat, turn,
+into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 7 chain, repeat, turn, into the
+7 chain 1 double crochet, 1 long, 7 double long, 1 long, 1 double
+crochet, repeat, work down the stem, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 4
+double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 1 chain of 14, turn, miss 3
+loops, 10 long, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, turn, 1 <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_248" id="page_248">[248]</a></span>
+double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, into the 3
+chain 1 double crochet, 5 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down
+the stem in double crochet.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_265"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 4." src=
+"images/image265.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Into the circle 16 long.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into each loop, 3 chain after
+each.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 4 long into the 3 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat. *, for the leaves, 1 chain of 22, turn, 4 double crochet, 1
+long, 9 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, 1 chain to cross the
+stem, on the other side 1 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1
+long, 4 double crochet, 2 double crochet at the point, work down
+the other side to correspond, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1
+chain of 8, repeat from *, 1 chain of 12, and unite it to the 3
+chain of the round, turn, 12 double crochet down the stem, work
+another leaf in the same manner, then work a stem of 8, and make
+another leaf the same as before, finish with a stem of 8.</p>
+
+<p><em>No. 5.--Round 1:</em> Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite
+it, 1 double crochet, miss 3 loops, 12 chain, repeat twice
+more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet, 13 long, 2
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 2 double crochet into successive loops, 13
+long into successive loops, 2 double crochet into successive loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 long, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> Into the 5 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long, 2
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 6.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 long, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> Into the 5 chain 3 double crochet, 3 chain, 1
+single crochet into the last double crochet, 3 more of double
+crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 long into the 4 chain, 7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> Into the 7 chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1
+single crochet into the last double crochet, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_249" id="page_249">[249]</a></span> 4 more
+double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. When all these
+pieces are done sew them together, as shown in the engraving, and
+work the edging to correspond with the other d'oyleys.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>266.--<em>D'Oyley No. 5.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20; and 1 skein of fine embroidery cotton, by the same makers.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat
+5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 7 chain 11 stitches of double
+crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 11, 9
+chain, miss 5 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, 9 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 9 chain 13 double crochet,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 13, 7
+chain, miss 3 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, and
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 7 times
+more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 6 chain, miss the 1st, then work into
+successive loops 2 double crochet and 3 long, 1 double crochet into
+the 1 double crochet in 1st round, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 5
+chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double long, 1 double
+crochet into the 5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in the 3rd round,
+5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Same as 4th.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_250" id=
+"page_250">[250]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 5th round, 6
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, 2 double long.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> Same as 7th.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> Same as 8th. Two of these patterns will be
+required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_266"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 5." src=
+"images/image266.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 16, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 double crochet
+into the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 6 double crochet into successive loops, 5
+chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 3rd of the 6, 13
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_251" id=
+"page_251">[251]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 17 double crochet into the 13 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 long and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop
+between each.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 1 chain, 1
+double crochet into the next chain, 5 chain, work another double
+crochet into the same place, 1 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat
+6 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, and 2 double long, 1
+double crochet into the last of the 5 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet at the top of the point, 4
+chain, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, miss 2
+loops, 1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 1 in last round. Work the other side of the point to
+correspond. Two of these patterns will be required for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 5.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops, 5 double crochet and 2 long, miss 1 of the last
+round, work 4 double crochet into successive loops, repeat 3 times
+more, at the end of the round work 4 more double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat
+all, round the 4 points and 2 stitches beyond the 4th, 7 chain, 1
+double crochet into each of the 7, finish the round with 3 chain
+and 1 double crochet as before.</p>
+
+<p>No. 6.--Make a chain of 5 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 4 times
+more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain,
+repeat till 5 double crochet are done, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 7
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Same as 2nd.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_252" id=
+"page_252">[252]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 3rd round, 7
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Same as 2nd.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> Same as 5th.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> Same as 2nd, only 4 chain instead of 3.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 7th round, 8
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> The same as 8th, only making 5 chain instead
+of 4. Four of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 7.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat
+twice more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat, 11 chain, work 2 more leaves in the same way, 1 double
+crochet into the 3 chain, 4 chain, repeat round 2 sides of the
+leaf, 3 chain, repeat the stitch of double crochet and 4 chain
+round 2 sides of each leaf, joining them with 3 chain. Two of these
+patterns will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 8.--<em>1st row:</em> Make a chain of 14 stitches, miss the
+1st, and work into successive loops 5 double crochet, 5 long, 3
+double long, turn.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 2 double long into each of the 3, 9 long into
+successive loops, 5 long into the double crochet at the point of
+the leaf, 9 long into successive loops, 6 double long into the next
+2 loops, 9 double long into the end of the 1st row, unite the last
+to the first double long in 2nd row.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat. No loop to be missed at the point, then work with the
+embroidery cotton a smaller leaf on it in satin stitch, raising it
+first with the cotton.</p>
+
+<p>No. 9.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 20 long into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet, taking both sides of the
+loop, 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> Double crochet into the centre of the 9 chain,
+7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_253" id=
+"page_253">[253]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 7 chain of last row 1 double crochet,
+1 long, 3 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, then work
+2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2
+patterns with 3 leaves from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns with 2
+leaves, and 1 pattern with 1 leaf, work 3 patterns from No. 6 in
+1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>When all these patterns are done join them as shown in the
+engraving, and work the edging as directed in the former
+d'oyleys.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>267.--<em>D'Oyley No. 6</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into 1 loop, and 1 into the
+next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> Increase to 30 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain,
+5 double crochet, and repeat 5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 5
+in last round, 11 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st, 12
+double crochet, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> 1 double crochet into the 6th of the 12, 15
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 1 double crochet, 2 long, and 3 double long, miss
+5 loops of the last round, work 1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 11:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in last round,
+miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, *, 3 chain, miss 1
+loop, repeat from * 4 times more, repeat from the beginning of the
+row.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 30 double crochet into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet, 13 chain, miss 5 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_254" id=
+"page_254">[254]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 17 double crochet into the 13 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 long, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd
+of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. Four patterns of this number
+will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_267"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 6." src=
+"images/image267.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 11 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat 3 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 11 chain, *, 3 double crochet, 5
+chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, repeat from * twice
+more, 3 more double crochet, repeat from the beginning of the
+row.</p>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 6, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 long, 4 chain, repeat 5 times more.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_255" id=
+"page_255">[255]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 4 chain in last row 1 long, 4 chain,
+work another long into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> Into the 2 chain 3 double crochet, into the 4
+chain 1 double crochet, 11 chain, work another double crochet into
+the same place, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 11 chain 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1
+single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 7
+chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 7, 3 double crochet, 5
+chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double
+crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 3 in
+last round, 2 chain, repeat; then work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st
+d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns from No. 4, 3 from No. 6,
+and 1 each from Nos. 11, 13, and 14 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from
+each of Nos. 3 and 4 in 2nd d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 2 in 5th
+d'oyley, and 1 pattern each from Nos. 4 and 6 in the 5th d'oyley.
+Sew these pieces firmly together as shown in the engraving, and add
+the edging as before.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>268.--<em>D'Oyley No. 7.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20; and 1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 16 stitches and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st Round:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 1 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 1 double crochet, 9 chain, miss 3 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Into the 9 chain 11 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> Into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain,
+1 single crochet into the one double crochet, work another double
+crochet into the 2 chain, 2 double crochet into the next 2 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_256" id=
+"page_256">[256]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 2 in
+last round, 13 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Into the 13 chain 11 double crochet,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, work 1 double crochet into
+each, make a chain of 15 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each,
+make a chain of 13 stitches, 1 double crochet into each.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double crochet into the end of each of these
+points, then work round <em>both</em> sides of these points in
+double crochet, working twice into the end of each point.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 3 double crochet over the 3 at the beginning
+of last row, *, 4 chain, single crochet into the 1st of the 4
+chain, miss 1 loop, work a long stitch into the next, repeat from *
+all round, at the beginning and end of the 3rd point miss 2 loops
+instead of 1, then work a stitch of double crochet into the 1st of
+the 3, 6 chain, miss the 1st, work into successive loops 2 long and
+3 double crochet, 1 double crochet into the last of the 3. This
+completes the pattern.</p>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 2 double
+crochet into the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 2 double crochet into successive loops, 2
+double crochet into the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 11 double crochet into successive loops, *,
+9 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 11 double crochet over the 11 in last round,
+work into the 9 chain 5 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the chain, 5 more double crochet into the same
+place, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> 13 double crochet over the 11 in last round,
+*, 15 chain, 1 double crochet over the 1st of the 5 in last round,
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 13 double crochet over the 13 in last round,
+*, work into the 15 chain 8 double crochet, 5 chain, work a stitch
+of single crochet into the 1st of the 5, 8 double crochet into the
+same place, repeat from *. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_257"
+id="page_257">[257]</a></span> This completes the pattern. Then
+work a circle in satin stitch on the plain part of the pattern with
+the Fine Embroidery Cotton. Two of these patterns will be required
+for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_268"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 7." src=
+"images/image268.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 16 stitches, and unite it. * make a
+chain of 10 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_258" id=
+"page_258">[258]</a></span> stitches, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 3 double crochet, 3 long, and 3 double long, unite
+the last double long to the 4th of the 16 chain in the circle,
+repeat from * 3 times more, *, work in single crochet to the top of
+the point and down 6 stitches of the other side, then make a chain
+of 8 stitches, miss the 1st, work into successive loops 3 stitches
+of double crochet, 2 long, and 2 double long, unite the last to the
+3rd of the next point, and repeat from * 3 times more. Three of
+these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. Work 2 patterns
+from No. 2 in the 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the
+same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 5, and 1 from No. 6 in 1st
+d'oyley, work 2 patterns with 1 leaf from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and
+1 pattern with 2 leaves, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the 5th
+d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, and 1 from
+No. 6, work 6 patterns from No. 3 in the 6th d'oyley, and 1 pattern
+from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 6th
+d'oyley. Join these pieces as before, and add the same edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>269.--<em>D'Oyley No. 8</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20; and 1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 9 stitches, work a stitch of
+double crochet into each of the 8 1st, work 2 into the 9th, work
+down the other side of the chain to correspond, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> *, Work 1 long, make 4 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat from
+*. No loop to be missed at the point. When this round is finished,
+make 10 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 long,
+and 7 of double crochet, then make 15 chain, unite to the 7th, and
+work into the circle 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, repeat 5 times
+more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3
+long, and 1 of double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Work 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1
+loop, and repeat. Three of these patterns are required for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_269"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 8." src=
+"images/image269.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_259" id=
+"page_259">[259]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 1 double crochet, make 9 chain, miss 1
+loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Work into the 9 chain 1 long, make 1 chain,
+work another 1 long into the same place, make 1 chain, work a third
+1 long into the same place, make 7 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Work into the centre of 3 long 2 long, make
+5 chain, work 2 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_260" id=
+"page_260">[260]</a></span> more long into the same place, make 5
+chain, work into the centre of the 7 chain 1 double crochet, make 3
+chain, work another of double crochet into the same place, make 5
+chain, and repeat. Two of these patterns will be required for this
+d'oyley. Work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern
+from Nos. 3, 4, and 6, work 1 pattern with 3 leaves from No. 3 in
+1st d'oyley, and 2 with only 1 leaf, work 1 pattern from each of
+Nos. 13 and 14 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from 2 in 5th
+d'oyley, and 1 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 2 patterns from
+No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, work 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley,
+and 2 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 1 in
+7th d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3, and 1 pattern from No. 4
+in 7th d'oyley, then sew them together as before.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>270.--<em>D'Oyley No. 9</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite ir.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain,
+repeat 11 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> *, Make 11 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work 10
+double crochet down the chain, miss 1 loop, work 7 double crochet
+and repeat from * 5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Work 1 double crochet, beginning on the 1st
+of the 10, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make
+5 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1
+double crochet into the point, work down the other side to
+correspond, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make
+2 chain, miss 3 loops, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Work into each of the 5 chain 1 double
+crochet, 5 long stitches, and 1 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work a stitch of double crochet into 1 loop,
+work 2 double crochet into the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_261" id=
+"page_261">[261]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * Work 3 double crochet, make 5 chain, work
+1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat from * 9 times
+more, work 2 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * Make 21 chain stitches, work 1 double
+crochet in the centre one of the 3, turn, work 7 double crochet
+into the 21 chain, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st
+of the 5 chain, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, repeat
+from * 8 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Work 15 double crochet into each loop of 21
+chain, above the last 7 work 20 double crochet into the last loop
+of 21, make 5 chain, turn, work 1 single crochet into the last of
+the 5 chain, 7 double crochet, make 4 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Work 19 double crochet, beginning on the 1st
+of the 7 in the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_262" id=
+"page_262">[262]</a></span> 1st loop of 21 chain, * make 6 chain,
+turn, miss 1 loop, work into successive loops a stitch of double, 3
+long, 1 double long, then miss 4 double crochet stitches, work 5
+double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, 5 double crochet
+into successive loops, repeat from * 8 times more, then work 12
+double crochet. Two of these patterns will be required for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_270"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 9." src=
+"images/image270.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain,
+repeat 9 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, make
+17 chain, work another stitch of double crochet into the same
+place, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into the next 3 chain,
+make 1 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Work into the 17 chain 20 double crochet,
+work 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, work 1 double
+crochet into the next 1 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Work a stitch of double crochet into the 1
+chain in last round, * work 5 double crochet into successive loops,
+beginning on the 1st of the 20, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the 5, repeat from * twice more, then work 5 double
+crochet into successive loops, and repeat from the beginning of the
+round. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make 21 chain and unite it, make a chain of 27 and unite
+it, make a chain of 21 and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work in the 21 chain 25 stitches of double
+crochet, work into the 27 chain 31 double crochet, work into the 21
+chain 25 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 3 stitches of <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_263" id="page_263">[263]</a></span> double crochet into
+successive loops, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st
+of the 5 chain, repeat this 6 times more, then work 3 double
+crochet and repeat from the beginning in the centre loop, repeat
+this 9 times instead of 7. Two of these are required for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 5.--Make a chain of 44 stitches, work 1 double crochet into
+each, turn, make 21 chain, work 1 double crochet into the 4th chain
+on the other side, * make 21 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double
+crochet into the next, repeat from * 9 times more, work 1 single
+crochet into the end loop, work 44 double crochet into successive
+loops, work 15 double into the 1st loop of 21, work 4 double
+crochet into each loop of 21, and 15 into the end one, then * work
+2 double crochet, make 3 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st
+of the 3, repeat from * all round.</p>
+
+<p>Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 from No. 3, 2 with
+3 leaves, and 2 with 2 leaves, from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2
+patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, and 3 patterns from No. 3 in
+6th d'oyley, sew them together as shown in the engraving, and add
+the edging as before.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>271.--<em>D'Oyley No. 10</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 19 stitches, turn, miss 5 loops,
+work 10 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 long,
+make 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, work 1 long stitch, make 3
+chain stitches, work a stitch of double crochet into the last loop,
+then work into the 1st 3 chain on the other side, 1 double crochet,
+5 long, work into the next 3 chain 4 long stitches, work 4 long
+stitches into the next 3 chain stitches, then work into the 5 chain
+at the point 8 long stitches, then work down the other side to
+correspond, * make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_264" id="page_264">[264]</a></span> work 1 long, make 1
+chain, work 1 long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work
+another long stitch into the same place, miss 1 loop, work 1 double
+crochet, repeat from * 7 times more, then work into the 1st 3 chain
+1 double crochet, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch, * make 1, work
+1 double long stitch, repeat from * twice more, make 1 chain, work
+1 long; all these stitches are worked into the same 3 chain, then
+work 1 double crochet into the chain stitch between the 2nd and 3rd
+long <span class="newpage"><a name="page_265" id=
+"page_265">[265]</a></span> stitches, repeat this 7 times more;
+this finishes the leaf; then make 16 chain, and work a second leaf
+the same as 1st, then work 2 double crochet down, then make 12
+chain, and work a third leaf the same as 1st, work 14 stitches down
+the stem, and work a 4th leaf the same as 1st, work 8 double
+crochet down the stem, work a 5th leaf the same as 1st, make a
+chain of 40 stitches, turn, and work back in double crochet.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_271"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 10." src=
+"images/image271.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it, *, work a
+stitch of double crochet into the circle, make 13 chain, and repeat
+from * five times more, then work 17 stitches into each of the 13
+chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, beginning on the
+second of the 13, *, make 5 chain stitches, and work a stitch of
+single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, then work 2 stitches of
+double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more; for the stem make a
+chain of 30 stitches, turn, * work 5 stitches of double crochet,
+make 5 chain, turn, and work a stitch of single crochet into the
+1st, repeat from * 4 times more, then work down the other side to
+correspond; then work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2
+from No. 3, 2 with only two leaves, and 2 from No. 6 in the same
+d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, and 3 from No. 3
+in 6th d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 9th d'oyley, and 1
+from No. 3; work 3 patterns from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, sew the
+pieces together as before, and work the edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>272 <em>and</em> 273.--<em>Work-Basket in Straw and Silk
+Crochet-Work</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch
+wide; small glass beads; a piece of bamboo cane.</p>
+
+<p>This basket has a cover formed of two pieces. It can be employed
+for <span class="newpage"><a name="page_266" id=
+"page_266">[266]</a></span> many things, and is formed entirely of
+crochet-work with brown silk over straw. A ruche trimmed with beads
+and bows of brown silk ribbon form the trimming of the basket. The
+straws over which you crochet must be damp, so as not to be stiff.
+They should be of unequal length, and when you join the two ends of
+two straws together, try to hide the beginning with the other
+straws. Begin the basket in the centre of the bottom part with 46
+stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of this first row,
+working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches, the
+double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the last
+round over wire.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_267" id=
+"page_267">[267]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_272"><img alt="Bottom of Work Basket (272)."
+src="images/image272.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_268" id=
+"page_268">[268]</a></span>
+
+<p>It is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep
+the work flat. When you have finished the bottom begin the border
+of the basket, which is worked of the same piece with it, and
+consists of 11 rounds.</p>
+
+<p>It is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds
+without increasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9
+rounds increase 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the
+edge may be a little wider in the upper part. In the last round add
+a piece of wire to the straws.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_273"><img alt=
+"Work Basket in Straw and Crochet." src=
+"images/image273.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. Begin in the
+middle with 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half
+circle, working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each
+row turn the straws, and take care that the rows which are finished
+form a straight line. Each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the
+last one is worked over wire. The two halves are united at the
+straight sides by a brown silk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is
+sewed on underneath, and which forms a sort of hinge; sew on also a
+piece of wire covered with brown silk, so as to make the hinge
+stronger. Form the handle with a piece of bamboo cane 23 inches
+long, and covered with straws; work over it in long stitches of
+brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of the basket; then
+sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, which forms the
+two parts. Trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats,
+ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>274 <em>and</em> 275.--<em>Two Crochet Borders</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton Nos. 30
+and 80.</p>
+
+<p>No. 274.--Crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border
+(No. 30 and No. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of
+stitches of the length required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_274"><img alt="Crochet Border." src=
+"images/image274.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 double in each stitch of the chain.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Turn and work on the opposite side of the
+chain, * 1 double, 11 chain, miss 7. Repeat from *. <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_269" id="page_269">[269]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> * 1 double on the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain,
+1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are under the 1st
+loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain. Repeat
+from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of
+chain, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st, but before you complete the
+treble stitch make 1 chain. Repeat from *. This row completes the
+upper half of the border. The lower half is worked over the 1st row
+of plain double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15
+chain, miss 9, 1 double, come back over the loop of chain and work
+1 double in each stitch, come back again and work 6 small points,
+each made thus: 5 chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each
+of the 3 others, 1 double over the round scallop. When you have
+worked the 6 small points repeat from *, but always join the 1st
+point of one scallop to the last point of the next scallop. The
+pattern inside the scallops is worked in 2 rows with fine cotton.
+(See illustration.)</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_275"><img alt="Crochet Border." src=
+"images/image275.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 275.--The border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled
+up with lace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl
+(<em>i.e</em>., 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the 1st). When the
+chain is long enough, turn and work <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_270" id="page_270">[270]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>the 1st row:</em> Alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the
+centre stitch between the 2 purl.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st
+loop of 7 chain, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre
+of next loop, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>The 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side
+of the chain with purl. * In each of the 8 first stitches work 1
+double, make 12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked,
+and work 1 double in the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and
+work 7 small points over it. For each point make 3 chain, work 1
+double in the 2nd, 1 treble in the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double
+upon the loop of chain. Repeat from * 6 times more.</p>
+
+<p>In the following scallops always fasten the first point of one
+scallop to the last point of the preceding scallop. When this row
+is completed fill up the inner part of each scallop with a network
+of fine thread, joining the threads at all the places where they
+cross each other by 2 or 3 stitches with a sewing needle.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>276.--<em>Crochet Antimacassar</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 18 reels of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's
+Head cotton No. 10</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_271" id=
+"page_271">[271]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_276"><img alt="Crochet Antimacassar." src=
+"images/image276.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square
+one, and is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a
+chain of 4 stitches, and unite it</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain
+stitch, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain
+stitches, miss 1 loop, and repeat. <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_272" id="page_272">[272]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last
+round, make 7 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long
+stitches, and 2 more double crochet, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in
+last round, make 9 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, * make 4
+chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5
+chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make
+1 chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 1 long stitch into the loop formed with the
+5 chain, make 12 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into
+successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of
+the 2 next loops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double
+crochet, 5 long stitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain,
+miss 1 loop, work 2 double crochet into successive loops, make 4
+chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain,
+and repeat. This completes the circle. 120 circles sewn together
+like the engraving will make a good-sized couvrette, 12 in the
+length, and 10 in the width. If a round couvrette is wished, work 1
+circle for the centre larger than the others; this can be done by
+repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then sew 8 circles round the
+centre one, and increase the number of circles in each row till you
+have made it the size you wish. For the square one, tassels are
+required for the end and sides; these are made by winding the
+cotton over a cardboard 4 inches deep about 80 times, then twist 8
+threads of the cotton into a cord, cut the cotton wound on the
+cardboard at one end, make 2 inches of the cord into a loop and tie
+it firmly with the middle of the tassel, then turn it, tie a thread
+tightly round, about an inch below the cord, and net over the head;
+40 of these tassels will be sufficient.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_273" id=
+"page_273">[273]</a></span> 277.--<em>Crochet Insertion</em>.
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No.
+40.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_277"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image277.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The patterns of this insertion are worked in a row, and always
+two opposite circles at a time. Make a foundation chain of 16
+stitches, join them into a circle, then work a 2nd circle
+consisting again of 16 chain stitches. Work round this circle 24
+double stitches, and 24 double round the 1st circle; after the last
+stitch begin again at the 2nd circle, and work 10 chain scallops as
+follows:--3 double in the next 3 stitches, * 5 chain, 2 double in
+the next 2 stitches, repeat 8 times more, 3 double in the last 3
+stitches; work in the same manner round the other circle. To get to
+the next pattern, work 4 slip stitches between the 2 circles in the
+middle of the just-completed pattern, leaving the cotton under the
+work and drawing it through the stitch upwards through the loop on
+the needle; 7 chain stitches, and then 2 circles like those just
+described, and so on.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>278 <em>and</em> 279.--<em>Tobacco Pouch in Crochet
+Work</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Black purse silk; crimson ditto; gold thread.</p>
+
+<p>The pouch is begun at the bottom, in the centre of the star.
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_274" id=
+"page_274">[274]</a></span> With crimson silk make a chain of 3
+stitches, and join it into a circle. Work 4 rounds of double
+crochet, 2 stitches in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 2 crimson stitches, 1 gold stitch, and so
+on.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> All gold stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 2 crimson stitches, 2 gold, and so on.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> All crimson stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em> 3 crimson stitches, 2 gold, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th round:</em> Similar to the preceding. <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_275" id="page_275">[275]</a></span></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_278"><img alt=
+"Star for Tobacco Pouch, No. 279." src=
+"images/image278.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_276" id=
+"page_276">[276]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>11th round:</em> 4 gold stitches, 3 crimson, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th round:</em> 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches over the
+2 centre gold stitches of preceding round, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round:</em> 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th round:</em> 1 gold stitch, 6 black stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th round:</em> 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th round:</em> 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>17th round:</em> 4 gold stitches, 2 over the black stitches
+of preceding round, and 1 on either side, 4 crimson stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>18th round:</em> 2 gold stitches over the centre ones of
+preceding round, 7 crimson stitches, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Now work 4 plain crimson rounds, and begin the pattern from No.
+279. The centre is crimson, and the pattern is black and gold. The
+border round the top is of the same colours.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_279"><img alt="Tobacco Pouch." src=
+"images/image279.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Complete the work by 2 rounds of open treble crochet, and 1
+round of gold scallops.</p>
+
+<p>In the open rounds pass a double cord of black silk, finished
+off with small balls of black silk gimp and gold; and on either
+side of the pouch fasten one of these same balls with two tassels,
+one crimson and one black. The pouch is lined with white kid.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>280 <em>and</em> 281.--<em>Crochet Rosettes</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 4,
+24, or 40.</p>
+
+<p>These rosettes are suitable for trimming cuffs, collars, and
+bodices, or for making couvrettes, according to the size of the
+cotton with which they are worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_280"><img alt="Crochet Rosette.] " src=
+"images/image280.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>280.--Make a foundation chain of 22 chain; join them into a
+circle and work the 1st round; 44 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * 7 chain, missing 3 stitches of the
+preceding round under them, 1 double; repeat 10 times more from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 1 slip stitch in the first 4 stitches of the
+next scallop, * 5 chain, miss the last and work back on the other
+4, 1 double, 1 treble, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_277" id=
+"page_277">[277]</a></span> 1 long treble, 1 double long treble
+(throw the cotton 3 times round the needle), 1 slip stitch in the
+middle stitch of the next scallop; repeat 10 times more from *.
+Work a wheel in the centre of the rosette, which is ornamented with
+a circle of chain stitch, as can be seen in illustration; take up
+one thread of the wheel with every other chain stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_281"><img alt="Crochet Rosette." src=
+"images/image281.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>281.--Begin the rosette with a leaf-like pattern in the centre,
+and work <em>the 1st row:</em> * 11 chain, miss the last, work back
+over the following 8 stitches, 1 double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, 1
+double long treble, 2 long treble, 1 treble, 1 double in the upper
+part of the chain stitch before the last, 1 slip stitch in the
+lower part of the same stitch. The first leaf of the middle pattern
+is then completed; repeat 6 times more from *. Join the first and
+last leaves together by working 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the 11
+chain stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> (Fasten on the cotton afresh), 1 slip stitch
+in the point of each leaf, 12 chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 24 double in each scallop. The rosette is
+then completed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_278" id=
+"page_278">[278]</a></span>
+
+<p>282.--<em>Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in
+Appliqu&eacute;, and Velvet Ribbon</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_282"><img alt=
+"Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in Appliqu&eacute; and Velvet Ribbon."
+ src="images/image282.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This trimming consists of 2 strips of crochet insertion,
+ornamented with embroidery patterns worked in appliqu&eacute;, and
+velvet ribbon drawn through. They are worked the long way with fine
+crochet cotton. Begin on a sufficiently long foundation chain of
+stitches which can be divided by 20, and work the<em>1st row:</em>
+1 chain, * 5 double, on the first 5 stitches of the foundation, 1
+leaf, as follows:--10 chain, without reckoning the loop left on the
+needle, 1 extra long treble (for which the cotton is <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_279" id="page_279">[279]</a></span> wound 5
+times round the needle) in the second of the 10 chain, a similar
+treble in the first, then cast off the 2 treble stitches together,
+wind the cotton once round the needle, and cast off the last loop
+with the loop left on the needle. Miss under the leaf 15 stitches
+of the foundation, and repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 5 double on the 5 double of the preceding row,
+inserting the needle in the whole stitches, 15 chain stitches
+between.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> * 5 double in the first 5 double of the
+preceding row, 7 chain, 1 slip stitch in every other stitch of the
+next scallop of the preceding row, 7 chain between, 7 chain
+stitches; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of
+the preceding row, 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of
+each of the 8 scallops, consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row,
+3 chain between, 3 chain; repeat from *. These 2 last rows (the
+third and fourth) are repeated on the other side of the foundation
+chain.</p>
+
+<p>When the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together
+so that 2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the
+embroidery patterns and velvet ribbon.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>283.--<em>Crochet Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers
+or pillowcases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. If
+the insertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower
+border on which the button-holes are made. Begin the insertion in
+the middle of one of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain
+of 9 stitches; join them into a circle by making 1 slip stitch, and
+crochet thus:--* <span class="newpage"><a name="page_280" id=
+"page_280">[280]</a></span> 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of
+these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the
+circle, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4 slip stitches in the
+next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5 double divided by
+5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten the thread after
+having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slip stitch to the
+1st double stitch of this round. This completes the star-like
+figure. Work on one side of these figures the following rows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four
+placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1
+treble in the last of the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st
+scallop of the following 4 placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in
+the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd scallop, 3
+chain. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding
+row, * miss 3 stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch.
+Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on
+the next 3 stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_281" id=
+"page_281">[281]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding
+row, * 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3
+double on the next 3 stitches of the preceding row. Repeat from *.
+After having worked these four rows likewise on the other side of
+the star figures, work over the last the following 5 rows for the
+button-holes:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double
+in the next purl. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double in each stitch of the preceding
+row.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which
+miss 7 stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Like the 2nd row.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row;</em> * 3 double on the next 3 double of the
+preceding row, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double
+stitch). Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_283"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image283.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>284.--<em>Crochet Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No.
+30.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton
+on a double foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl
+stitches as follows:--1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1
+purl, consisting of 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1
+double in the next stitch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work
+centre consists of 6 rows of scallops; the 1st of these rows is
+worked on the other side of the foundation chain; 1 double in the
+middle stitch of every scallop, 5 chain between, then 1 row of slip
+stitches, and finally a row of purl <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_282" id="page_282">[282]</a></span> stitches like the 1st row
+of the insertion. For the raised flowers, which are fastened over
+the grounding at unequal distances, * make a foundation chain of 10
+stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from illustration by
+taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the 1 chain of
+the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of the
+10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1
+long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then
+1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches
+under them, 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. Each
+following row consists of 1 double in the middle stitch of every
+scallop of the preceding row, 9 chain between. Then work the 1st
+row of the border on the other side of the insertion; 1 double in
+the 1st stitch of the foundation, inserting the needle into the
+back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times more from *, and the flower
+is completed.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_284"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image284.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>285.--<em>Crochet Garter</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round
+white elastic cord; a pearl button.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_283" id=
+"page_283">[283]</a></span>
+
+<p>This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic
+cord; the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey
+thread.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_285"><img alt="Crochet Garter." src=
+"images/image285.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool;
+take the elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little,
+and work over it. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the
+pattern is completed in the course of the two first rounds; the
+button-hole is made at the beginning of the first round; make a
+loop of 21 stitches, and, when you come to it, work over this loop
+instead of over the foundation chain. Increase the number of
+stitches at either end of the garter, to round it off. When the
+second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then a plain
+red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately 1
+double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first,
+missing 1 stitch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl button to
+correspond with the button-hole. The garter would be both more
+elegant and more elastic if worked entirely in silk.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_284" id=
+"page_284">[284]</a></span>
+
+<p>286.--<em>Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton, and a
+needle to match.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of
+old guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and
+sleeves, and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size.
+Both strips of rosettes join at that place, and one is continued
+for the part round the bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the
+pattern there are 42 rosettes round the bosom, and 14 round each
+sleeve. These rosettes are fastened one to another in the course of
+the work. They are made in the following manner:--Make a chain of 6
+stitches, and join it into a ring.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain,
+which forms a purl (the 3 first chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1
+chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to
+form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring. Repeat 6 times from *.
+Instead of the last treble, work a slip stitch to fasten the end of
+the round to the 3 chain of the beginning, which thus form 1
+treble.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned as 1
+treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain.
+Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the
+beginning.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> On each scallop of preceding round work 2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This
+completes the rosette. Each rosette is fastened to the last by
+joining the 2 middle purl of both. In the illustration, which is
+full-size, the purl that are to be joined to those of another
+rosette are marked by a cross. The joining between the part round
+the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same manner. The space left
+between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star formed of chain
+stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk. For this
+star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms the <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_285" id="page_285">[285]</a></span>
+centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8
+purl that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch.
+Repeat 7 times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them
+together 3 of these stars are required for each shoulder.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_286"><img alt=
+"Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise." src=
+"images/image286.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_286" id=
+"page_286">[286]</a></span>
+
+<p>For the Border.--It is worked at the same time both round the
+bosom and sleeves.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st
+scallop of the rosette, which we will call the <em>first
+rosette</em>; 5 chain, 1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd
+scallop of the same rosette, 4 chain; then work the kind of cross
+which comes between each rosette (see illustration). To make this
+cross throw the cotton 3 times round the needle, work 1 double
+treble in the last purl left free of the 1st rosette, keep the last
+loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round it, and work a
+double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd rosette, throw
+the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the loop left
+on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last double
+treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * at
+each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come
+to the next space, where a cross is to be made.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work alternately 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2;
+at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over the 6 chain. The
+two rounds just explained are also worked round the upper edge, and
+finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1 double in one
+of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the
+6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next but one
+of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, 1
+chain, 1 double in the next space. Repeat from *. On the upper edge
+of the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1
+round of crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the
+needle, so that the treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain
+between each cross.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_287" id=
+"page_287">[287]</a></span>
+
+<h2>KNITTING</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_288" id=
+"page_288">[288]</a></span> <a name="KNITTING_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+
+<h3>KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_289" id=
+"page_289">[289]</a></span>
+
+<p>287.--KNITTING, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is
+by no means so ancient as lacemaking. Knitting has never entirely
+quitted the hands of English and German ladies; indeed, among all
+good housewives of any civilised country, it is reckoned an
+indispensable accomplishment. Knitting schools have been
+established of late years both in Ireland and Scotland, and Her
+Majesty the Queen has herself set an example of this industry, as
+well as largely patronised the industrial knitters of Scotland. Of
+the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at present
+ignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the
+following instructions are offered.</p>
+
+<p>To knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread,
+cotton, silk, or wool are required.</p>
+
+<p>Knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the
+size to be used depends entirely upon the material employed,
+whether thread, cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting.
+As the size of the needles depends upon that of the cotton, a
+knitting gauge is used (see No. 287). The gauge (page 290) is the
+exact size of Messrs. H. Walker and Co.'s knitting gauge. Our
+readers will remark that English and foreign gauges differ very
+essentially; the finest size of German <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_290" id="page_290">[290]</a></span> needles, for
+example, is No. 1, which is the size of the coarsest English wooden
+or ivory needle. Straight knitting is usually done with two needles
+only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &amp;c., three, four,
+and five needles are employed.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_287"><img alt="-Knitting Gauge." src=
+"images/image287.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>288.--<em>Casting On</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This term is used for placing the first row or round of knitting
+stitches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two
+ways--by "knitting on" the stitches, or as follows:--</p>
+
+<p>Hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left
+hand, throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a
+loop, and pass the needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly
+round the needle, pass it through the loop, and draw up the thread;
+this forms the first stitch (see No. 288).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_288"><img alt="Casting On." src=
+"images/image288.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>289.--<em>To Knit On</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_289"><img alt="Knitting On." src=
+"images/image289.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Take the needle on which the stitches are cast in the left hand,
+and another needle in the right hand--observe the position of the
+hands <span class="newpage"><a name="page_291" id=
+"page_291">[291]</a></span> (No. 289). Hold the left-hand needle
+between the thumb and third finger, leaving the first finger free
+to move the points of the needles. (The wonderful sense of touch in
+the first or index finger is so delicate, that an experienced
+knitter can work without ever looking at her fingers, by the help
+of this touch only--in fact, knitting becomes a purely mechanical
+labour, and as such is most useful.) Insert the point of the
+right-hand needle in the loop or stitch formed on the left-hand
+needle, bring the thread once round, turning the point of the
+needle in <span class="newpage"><a name="page_292" id=
+"page_292">[292]</a></span> front under the stitch, bringing up the
+thread thrown over, which in its turn becomes a stitch, and is
+placed on the left-hand needle.</p>
+
+<p>290.--<em>Simple Knitting (plain)</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_290"><img alt="Plain Knitting." src=
+"images/image290.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Pass the right-hand needle into the 1st stitch of the left-hand
+needle, at the back throw the thread forward, and with the first
+finger pass the point of the needle under the stitch in forming a
+fresh stitch with the thread already thrown over, as in "knitting
+on," only, instead of placing the newly-formed stitch on the
+left-hand needle, leave it on the right-hand needle, and let the
+stitch drop off the point of the left-hand needle. Continue thus
+until all the stitches are taken from the left to the right-hand
+needle, and the row is then complete.</p>
+
+<p>291.--<em>To Purl, Pearl, or Seam</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Seaming or purling a stitch is done by taking up the stitch
+<em>in front</em> instead of at the back, throwing the thread over
+and knitting the stitch as in plain knitting; but before beginning
+to purl, the thread must be brought in front of the needle, and if
+a plain stitch follows, the thread is passed back after the purl
+stitch is made (see No. 291).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_291"><img alt="Purling." src=
+"images/image291.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>292.--<em>To Increase</em>. <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_293" id="page_293">[293]</a></span> Increasing or making a
+stitch is done by throwing the thread once round the needle and in
+the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_292"><img alt="Increasing." src=
+"images/image292.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>293.--<em>To Decrease</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This is done in two ways: <em>firstly</em>, taking up two
+stitches and knitting them together as one; <em>secondly</em>, by
+taking up a stitch without knitting it, called slipping, then by
+knitting the following stitch in the usual way, and then slipping
+the 1st (unknitted) over the 2nd (knitted) (see No. 293). When it
+is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed thus:--Slip
+one, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknitted stitch
+over the two knitted together.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_293"><img alt="Decreasing." src=
+"images/image293.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_294" id=
+"page_294">[294]</a></span>
+
+<p>294.--<em>Round Knitting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>To knit a round four or five needles are used; it is thus that
+stockings, socks, cuffs, mittens, &amp;c., are made. To knit with
+four needles, cast on, say, 32 stitches upon one needle, insert a
+second needle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on 30
+stitches; proceed in a similar way with a third needle, but casting
+on 28 only; when this is done, knit the two extra stitches on the
+first needle on to the last; this makes 30 stitches upon each
+needle, and completes the round.</p>
+
+<p>295.--<em>Casting Off</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Knit two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slip the first
+stitch over the second; continue this to the end of the row.
+<em>Note</em>.--The last knitted row, before casting off, should be
+knitted loosely. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_295" id=
+"page_295">[295]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>296.--<em>To Pick up a Stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This is done by taking up the thread between two stitches and
+forming a stitch with it.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>The following Designs of New Stitches can be used for a variety
+of work:--</p>
+
+<p>297.--<em>Peacock's Tail Pattern</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Needles, wood or ivory; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting
+cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_297"><img alt="Peacock's Tail Pattern." src=
+"images/image297.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, as it takes nine
+stitches for each pattern, and two for each border; the border,
+which <span class="newpage"><a name="page_296" id=
+"page_296">[296]</a></span> is in plain knitting, will not be
+mentioned after the first row.</p>
+
+<p>1<em>st Row</em>.--2 plain for border; 2 plain *, make 1, 1
+plain, repeat this four times from *, make 1, 2 plain; repeat from
+the beginning--then 2 plain for border.</p>
+
+<p>2<em>nd Row</em>.--2 purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_298"><img alt="Spiral Stitch." src=
+"images/image298.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>3<em>rd Row</em>.--Take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 together;
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4<em>th Row</em>.--Purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 together;
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>5<em>th Row</em>.--Take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2
+together.</p>
+
+<p>Begin from the 1st row.</p>
+
+<p>Thirteen stitches are large enough for a stripe for a
+sofa-cover. These stripes should be sewn together after all are
+finished.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_297" id=
+"page_297">[297]</a></span>
+
+<p>298.--<em>Spiral Stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Needles, thick steel or bone; double wool.</p>
+
+<p>This stitch is far more effective worked in thick wool than in
+cotton. It is done in stripes alternately wide and narrow. For wide
+stripes cast on twenty-one stitches, for narrow fifteen; this
+without counting the first and last stitch, the first being
+slipped, the last always plainly knitted.</p>
+
+<p>1<em>st Row</em>.--Purl 3 together to end of row.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd Row</em>.--Make 1, * 1 plain, make 2, repeat from * end
+by making the last stitch before the plain knitted one at end of
+row.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_299"><img alt="Knotted Stitch." src=
+"images/image299.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_298" id=
+"page_298">[298]</a></span>
+
+<p>299.--<em>Knotted Stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Needles, wood or ivory; double wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 11 stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st Row</em>.--All plain, throwing the wool twice round the
+needle before each stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd Row</em>.--Each stitch on the needle is now composed of
+3 threads of wool: knit the first plain, the second purl, the third
+plain; cast off the second over the third, and the first over the
+second; this leaves but one stitch; repeat from first row until a
+sufficient length is obtained. This pattern makes very pretty
+borders.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>300.--<em>Knitted Moss Borders</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Steel needles; moss wool of several shades of
+green.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on enough stitches for double the width required, say
+twenty, and knit very tightly in plain knitting, row by row, until
+a sufficient length has been obtained. Cut off and place the strip
+on a sieve over a basin of boiling water, and cover it over. When
+it has absorbed the steam, and while wet, iron it with a box-iron.
+Then cut the strip down the centre, and unravel the wool on each
+side. The threads of wool all curling, resemble moss. They are held
+firmly by the selvedge of the knitting.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>301.--<em>German Brioche Stitch</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Wood or ivory needles; wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on an even number of stitches.</p>
+
+<p>All the rows are knitted as follows:--Slip 1, taken as for
+purling, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_299" id=
+"page_299">[299]</a></span> make 1, take 2 together. In the
+following rows the made stitch must always be slipped, the
+decreased stitch and the slipped stitch of the previous row knitted
+together.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_301"><img alt="German Brioche Stitch." src=
+"images/image301.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Ordinary Brioche Stitch is made by casting on an even number of
+stitches, and working the rows as follows:--</p>
+
+<p>Make 1, slip 1, take 2 together; repeat. <em>Note</em>.--The
+made stitch and the slipped stitch of the previous row must always
+be knitted together, and the decreased stitch of that row
+slipped.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_300" id=
+"page_300">[300]</a></span> NETTING. <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_301" id="page_301">[301]</a></span> <a name=
+"NETTING_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+
+<h3>NETTING INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<p>302.--NETTING is one of the prettiest and one of the easiest
+accomplishments of a lady. The materials are simple, while the
+effects produced by good netting are most elegant and of great
+durability. One great advantage of netting is that each stitch is
+finished and independent of the next, so that if an accident
+happens to one stitch it does not, as in crochet or knitting, spoil
+the whole work.</p>
+
+<p>Netting, so easy to do, is most difficult to describe. The
+materials required are--a netting-needle and mesh (see illustration
+No. 302). These are made of bone, of wood, of ivory, and most
+commonly of steel. The wood, bone, and ivory are only used for
+netting wool, the steel for silk, cotton, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The needle is filled by passing the end of the thread through
+the little hole at the left-hand point, and tying it; then the
+thread is wound on the needle as on a tatting shuttle. The needles
+are numbered from 12 to 24; these last are extremely fine. The
+meshes correspond to the sizes of the needles, and are made of the
+same materials. The larger the size of the stitch required the
+thicker the mesh must be selected; indeed, large hat meshes are
+often used for some patterns. A stirrup to slip over the foot to
+which the foundation is attached is required by those who do <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_302" id="page_302">[302]</a></span>
+not use a netting cushion, placed before them on the table and
+heavily weighted; to this the foundation is fastened.</p>
+
+<p>The stirrup is made of a loop of ribbon, to which the foundation
+is tied. Some ladies work a pretty stirrup of the exact shape of a
+horseman's stirrup; a loop of ribbon is passed through this, and
+the foundation fixed as before.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_302"><img alt="Needle and Mesh." src=
+"images/image302.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>303.--<em>To Net</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Place the mesh under the thread, between the thumb and finger of
+the left hand; it must rest on the middle of the finger and be held
+only by the thumb (see illustration No. 303). Take the needle in
+the right hand, pass the thread over the middle and ring finger and
+over the mesh, pass the needle upwards and behind the mesh in the
+large loop which forms the thread round the fingers, and at the
+same time through the first stitch or loop of the foundation. Draw
+the needle out, retaining the loops on the fingers and dropping
+them off, the little finger being the last to release the thread.
+As the thread tightens and the knot is firm, the loop on the little
+finger should be drawn up quickly and smartly. The next stitches
+are precisely similar, and row upon row is formed in the <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_303" id="page_303">[303]</a></span>
+same manner. Having learnt the stitch, the next task is to make a
+foundation. Tie a large loop of strong thread on the stirrup
+ribbon, and net fifty stitches into this loop, then net four or
+five rows, and the foundation is ready.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_303"><img alt="Netting." src=
+"images/image303.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Simple netting as above explained forms diamonds or lozenges.
+When a piece of netting is finished it is cut off the foundation,
+and the little ends of thread that held the stitches are drawn
+out.</p>
+
+<p>304.--<em>Square Netting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Is done precisely in the same manner as plain netting, only
+begin from one stitch, then net two stitches into this first, and
+increase by making two in the last loop of every row. As soon as
+the right number of stitches is complete diminish exactly in the
+same way by netting two stitches as one at the end of each row
+until one stitch alone remains. These squares are used for guipure
+d'art and for darning on.</p>
+
+<p>305.--<em>Round Netting</em></p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_304" id=
+"page_304">[304]</a></span>
+
+<p>Is nearly similar to plain netting. A little difference exists
+in the way of passing the needle through the stitch; this is shown
+in No. 305. After having passed the needle through the stitch it is
+drawn out and passed from above into the loop just made. This
+stitch is very effective for purses.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_305"><img alt="Round Netting." src=
+"images/image305.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>306.--<em>Diamond Netting</em></p>
+
+<p>Is often called "pointed netting," and is made by netting from
+one stitch, increasing one stitch at the end of each row, and
+decreasing in the same way, as described at page 303.</p>
+
+<p>307.--<em>To Net Rounds</em>.</p>
+
+<p>To form a circle, as for a purse, the needle must pass through
+the first stitch, keeping the last three or four on the mesh and
+removing this when required by the work. <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_305" id="page_305">[305]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>308.--<em>"English" Netting</em></p>
+
+<p>Is made as follows:--Net a row of plain netting, begin the
+second row by netting the second stitch, then net the first;
+repeat, always passing by one stitch and taking it up.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd Row</em>--Plain.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th Row</em>--Begin by a plain stitch, then continue as in
+the 2nd row.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th Row</em>--Plain.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_308"><img alt="English Netting." src=
+"images/image308.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>309.--<em>Lace Edging</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Begin by one stitch and net two in one at the end of each row
+until as many stitches are required for the narrowest part of the
+edge. * Increase one then in the two loops until the point of the
+edge or scallop is reached; at the next row leave the squares which
+form the point, and begin from *.</p>
+
+<p>310.--<em>Open Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This kind of edging is made with two meshes of different sizes
+and extremely fine crochet cotton.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_306" id=
+"page_306">[306]</a></span>
+
+<p>Tie the thread to the foundation, net 3 rows with the small mesh
+of the required length.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th Row</em>--On the large mesh, one stitch in each
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th Row</em>--On the small mesh take 3 stitches together to
+form 1 loop; repeat to end of row.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th Row</em>--On the large mesh make 5 loops in each stitch;
+repeat to end of row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_310"><img alt="Open Lace." src=
+"images/image310.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>7th Row</em>--On the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4
+first stitches, pass over the 5th, repeat to end.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th Row</em>--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the
+two first stitches, pass over the 4th; repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th Row</em>--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the
+two first stitches, pass over the 3rd; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>This lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim
+opera-caps, children's hoods, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>311.--<em>Shell Border</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This border is intended as an edging for square netting for
+couvrettes, d'oyleys, &amp;c. The mesh must be three times as long
+as that employed for the square netting.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_307" id=
+"page_307">[307]</a></span>
+
+<p>Make 12 stitches in the first stitch of the edge, pass over 8,
+make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. Then take the mesh used for the
+square netting, and net one stitch in each stitch, take a still
+smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row of one stitch in
+each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>This border forms a very appropriate edging for all articles in
+square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for trimming guipure
+d'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging the
+work; two sets of shells must be worked at the corners when a
+little fulness is required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_311"><img alt="Shell Border." src=
+"images/image311.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_309" id=
+"page_309">[309]</a></span> <a name=
+"KNITTING_AND_NETTING_PATTERNS"></a>
+
+<h3>KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS</h3>
+
+<p>312.--<em>Knitted Sock for a Child.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single Berlin wool; 1 yard of
+narrow pink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins.</p>
+
+<p>This sock fits well, and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two
+pins, backwards and forwards. Cast on 22 stitches and knit 22 rows,
+but increase once at the end of every other row on the right side
+of the work, so that there are 33 stitches in the 22nd row. Now
+cast off 28 stitches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the
+end of every other row. Now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at
+the end of every other row; this forms the toe. Cast on 28 stitches
+on the same needle, and knit 22 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the
+end of every other row, and cast off. Pick up the 68 stitches on
+the upper part of shoe, and knit 20 rows, alternately 2 plain and 2
+purl rows, decreasing 1 stitch on each side of the 12 stitches in
+every other row, which forms the toe and front of sock. Knit 14
+rows of 2 plain, 2 purl stitches alternately, then 3 open rows with
+1 plain row between. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_310" id=
+"page_310">[310]</a></span> The open rows are worked as follows:--*
+Purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1 open
+row, 1 plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewn together down the
+back of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to
+form the toe.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_312"><img alt="Knitted Sock." src=
+"images/image312.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>313.--<em>Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers,
+Couvrettes, Antimacassars, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton; 5
+steel knitting-needles of a corresponding size.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_313"><img alt=
+"Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers, &amp;c."
+src="images/image313.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>According to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful
+square makes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes,
+&amp;c. &amp;c. If <span class="newpage"><a name="page_311" id=
+"page_311">[311]</a></span> worked with Evans's cotton No. 10, it
+will be suitable for the first-mentioned purpose.</p>
+
+<p>Begin the square in the centre, cast on 8 stitches, 2 on each
+needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the 1st round.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_312" id=
+"page_312">[312]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1;
+repeat 3 times more from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Plain knitting. This knitted round is
+repeated after every pattern round. We shall not mention this
+again, nor the repetition from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p>The 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in
+every other round the number of stitches between the 2 stitches
+formed by throwing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in
+the 18th round 15 stitches are knitted between.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>22nd round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the
+knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1,
+draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together,
+knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>24th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the
+knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the
+slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1,
+knit 2 together, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_313" id=
+"page_313">[313]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>26th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the first over the last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1,
+knit 1, draw the first over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit
+2, three times alternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>28th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+four times alternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1,
+draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch;
+knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, four times alternately throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>30th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+six times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1,
+draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1 six times
+alternately, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>32nd round:</em></p>
+
+<p><em>34th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, 7 times alternately
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit
+4 stitches together, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_314" id=
+"page_314">[314]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>38th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the, slipped over the knitted stitch, 8 times alternately knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>40th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit
+3 stitches together as 1 stitch, 8 times alternately throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1. You now have 41 stitches on each
+needle; knit 1 round, and cast off. When completed, the squares are
+joined together on the wrong side.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>314.--<em>Knitted Sleeping Sock.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces
+light blue fleecy.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_314"><img alt="Knitted Sleeping Sock." src=
+"images/image314.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond
+pattern, and in rounds like a stocking. Begin at the upper part of
+the sock; cast on 103 stitches with blue wool on pretty thick steel
+knitting-needles, and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as
+follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Quite plain.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Purled; both these rounds are worked with
+blue wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd to 6th rounds:</em> Knitted plain with white wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em>With blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through
+the next stitch of the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out
+as a loop, keep it on the needle, knit again 3 stitches, and so on.
+8th round: With blue wool; the loop which has been taken up on the
+preceding round is purled off together with the preceding stitch.
+Repeat the 3rd and 8th rounds <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_315" id="page_315">[315]</a></span> twice more; the loop of
+one round must be placed between those of the preceding one. Then
+knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2 stitches knitted, 2
+stitches purled, then work the foot in the diamond pattern in the
+same way as usual for a stocking. The heel is formed by leaving 23
+stitches on each side the seam stitch, and knitted backwards and
+forwards in the diamond pattern. At the toe decrease so that the
+decreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. This is obtained
+by knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches of the 1st needle together; on
+the 2nd needle slip the 4th stitch before the last, knit the next
+stitch and draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one; decrease
+in the same manner on the other 2 needles of this round. Repeat
+these decreasings <span class="newpage"><a name="page_316" id=
+"page_316">[316]</a></span> exactly in the same direction and at
+the same places, so that there are always 4 stitches between the 2
+decreasings at the end and at the beginning of 2 needles; they
+always take place after 3 or 2 plain rounds, and at last after 1
+plain round. The remaining stitches are knitted off 2 and 2
+together. To complete the sock, the outline of the sole is marked
+by working slip stitches with blue wool in crochet all round it;
+work also slip stitches on the selvedge stitch of the heel. The
+stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops in
+blue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>315 and 316.--Netted Fichu or Cape.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle and
+meshes.</p>
+
+<p>This fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk
+used three or four times double. It may be worn as an evening wrap,
+either over a cap or on the hair, or as a necktie. The ground in
+our pattern is white, the border blue. The illustration of the
+ground and of the border, in full size, will serve as a guide for
+the size of the meshes to be used. For the ground cast on the first
+mesh, with white silk, 56 stitches; work 2 rows on the 56 stitches.
+From the 3rd row, always miss the last stitch, so that each row is
+decreased 1 stitch. Continue in this manner till the 39th row, when
+there will be but 19 stitches left. From the 40th row, miss 2
+stitches at the end of each row. The ground is completed with the
+46th row. The 1st row of the work is the <em>cross-way side</em>;
+the last, the <em>point at the bottom</em>; fasten on the blue silk
+to the 1st stitch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row
+round the ground of the fichu, not forgetting that the stitch on
+the outer edge at the sides must always be taken, and 2 stitches
+made in the 5th, 10th, 14th, 18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th stitches at
+the sides, as well as in each of the 2 middle stitches of the last
+row; in each of the other stitches 1 stitch should be made. On the
+corners of the sides increase <em>once</em>, on the cross-way side,
+seven times in all.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_317" id=
+"page_317">[317]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_315"><img alt=
+"Netted Fichu, or Cape, for Evening Dress." src=
+"images/image315.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_318" id=
+"page_318">[318]</a></span>
+
+<p>This forms the 1st round of the edging or lace.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_316"><img alt=
+"Showing the Netting full size for Border of Fichu." src=
+"images/image316.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>2nd round of the lace:</em> In each stitch make 2
+stitches--still on the larger mesh. 3rd round: Always miss the
+small flat scallop formed in last row, and work 2 stitches in the
+stitch which forms a tight loop. Keep thus the same number of
+stitches, with which work 6 more rounds. For the last round, work 1
+stitch in each <em>tight</em> loop.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>317.--Lady's Knitted Purse.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet
+ditto; black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a tassel of black
+beads; 5 steel knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_319" id=
+"page_319">[319]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_317"><img alt="Lady's Knitted Purse." src=
+"images/image317.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_320" id=
+"page_320">[320]</a></span>
+
+<p>This purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and
+ornamented with black beads and a black bead tassel. Begin the
+purse with the black silk in the centre of the bottom part, and
+cast on for one part of it 7 stitches. Knit 14 rows on these
+backwards and forwards, in such a manner that the work is knitted
+on one side and purled on the other. The 1st stitch of every row is
+slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * On that side where
+hangs the thread with which you work take the back chain of the 7
+selvedge stitches of the part you have just knitted on a separate
+needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the 1st
+row of which is knitted. Repeat 10 times more from *. The stitches
+of several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to be
+hindered in working by too many needles. When the 12th part is
+completed, take the selvedge stitches on the left hand on another
+needle, cast them off together with the cast on stitches of the 1st
+part, and fasten the silk thread. Then take the 7 right-hand
+selvedge stitches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk
+on which the beads have been strung and work 15 rows on these
+stitches, the 1st row from the wrong side, and therefore purled; in
+the 1st, as well as in all the other purled rows, the last stitch
+must be purled together with the next stitch of the next black
+part. In the purled rows, moreover, <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_321" id="page_321">[321]</a></span> excepting in the first
+and last one, a bead must be worked in after casting off the 2nd,
+4th, and 6th stitches. The stitch must be worked by inserting the
+needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk which
+has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch so
+that it is on the right side of the work. In the following knitted
+row, the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the
+bead stitch. When 12 such red parts have been completed, work again
+12 black parts on the selvedge stitch of the same, in which the
+beads are not knitted in, but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is
+completed. Then work 3 times more alternately 12 red and 12 black
+parts; when the last 12 black parts have been completed cast off
+the stitches of the last black part together with the selvedge
+stitches, the 1st on the wrong side; the stitches of the 6th part
+are cast off in the same manner together with the selvedge stitches
+of the 7th. The red parts which remain to be worked on the black
+part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and the 7th,
+8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. Then gather
+all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the 10 parts on 2
+needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the stitches and
+selvedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed
+on the sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk,
+first on the stitches of the one needle, and then on those of the
+other:--1 row knitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch;
+then work 3 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of
+stitches, which must be knitted on the right side; then work 8 rows
+more in the same manner, casting off the 2 first stitches of the 8
+rows. Then cast off all the remaining stitches, sew the beads on
+the black parts from illustration; also the clasp and bead
+tassel.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_322" id=
+"page_322">[322]</a></span>
+
+<p>318 to 320.--<em>Knitted Antimacassar or Berceaunelle
+Cover.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey and violot fleecy wool.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_318"><img alt="Square for Antimacassar."
+src="images/image318.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This antimacassar, part of which is seen on No. 320, smaller
+than full size, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are
+knitted separately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine
+knitting-needles. In the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted
+circle of grey wool. The edge of the antimacassar is ornamented
+with a grey woollen fringe. For each rosette cast on 6 stitches
+with violet wool, and knit 12 rows backwards and forwards in such a
+manner that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the
+other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, the first stitch of
+every row is slipped; * then take the first five selvedge stitches
+of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the side where the end
+of wool hangs down, leaving it unnoticed for the present),
+inserting the needle into the back chain of the stitch (the
+selvedge stitch which is next to the cast-on stitch remains,
+therefore, unworked upon), and knit on these a new part, which must
+have 13 rows; the first row is knitted, and in this row work 2
+stitches in the first stitch, one purled and one knitted, so that
+this new part is equally six stitches wide. Repeat 8 times more
+from *. After having worked several parts, the stitches can, of
+course, be taken on the same needle, so as not to increase the
+number of needles. When the 10th part is completed, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_323" id="page_323">[323]</a></span> take
+the selvedge stitches of the left-hand side of the same on a
+separate needle, cast them off with the cast-on stitches of the
+first part, and fasten the wool. Then take the 6 selvedge stitches
+on the right hand of one part on a separate needle; take the grey
+wool, and work on these stitches 13 rows backwards and forwards;
+the first row is knitted; it is worked on the right side of the
+work; in this, and in every following <em>knitted</em> row, knit
+the last stitch together with the next stitch of the next violet
+part. When 10 such grey parts are completed (each of the remaining
+9 parts consists of 13 rows, and begins with one knitted row), take
+all the stitches and the selvedge stitches of these parts on four
+needles and knit with these stitches, also with <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_324" id="page_324">[324]</a></span> grey
+wool 1 row knitted, in which the 6 selvedge stitches must be
+decreased to 3 by knitting always 2 stitches together as 1 stitch;
+each of the other stitches is knitted as usual. Then purl 2 rows
+with violet wool, and cast off.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_319"><img alt="Rosette for Antimacassar."
+src="images/image319.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_320"><img alt="Part of Antimacassar." src=
+"images/image320.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For the tatted circle in the centre of the rosette, work with
+grey wool a circle consisting of 1 double, and 11 times alternately
+1 purl 3-10ths of an inch long, 2 double, then 1 purl and 1 double.
+The circle is sewn on the rosette, from illustration, with grey
+wool. No. 319 shows such a rosette full size. The small squares
+(<em>see</em> No. 318) are worked with <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_325" id="page_325">[325]</a></span> grey wool; cast on
+36 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and purl 2 rows. To
+form the corners, knit together 4 times 2 stitches after every 7
+stitches in the first of these two rounds, in the second round knit
+together 2 stitches after every 6 stitches; these decreasings and
+those of the other rounds must always take place, at the same
+places as in the preceding round. Then take the violet wool, and
+knit 7 rows; in the first of these knit 4 times 2 stitches together
+after intervals of 5 stitches; no decreasings take place in the
+2nd, 4th, and 6th rows; in the 3rd row knit together 4 times 3
+stitches as 1 stitch, and in the 5th and 7th rows 4 times 2
+stitches as 1 stitch. After the 7th round, the remaining stitches
+are cast off together as 1 stitch. Then fasten the wool and cut it
+off. Lastly, sew the rosettes and squares together from No. 320 for
+a cover, and edge it round the border with a fringe of grey
+wool.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_321"><img alt="Knitted Border." src=
+"images/image321.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>321.--<em>Knitted Border.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 10 or No. 50
+knitting cotton.</p>
+
+<p>If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for
+trimming a quilt or berceaunette cover; if, on the contrary, fine
+cotton is used, the pattern will form a very pretty collar for a
+little boy or girl.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_326" id=
+"page_326">[326]</a></span>
+
+<p>To make a collar, begin by a chain of 220 stitches, and work 6
+rows backwards and forwards alternately, knitting 4 stitches and
+purling 2.</p>
+
+<p>In the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows the 4 stitches are purled, and the
+2 are knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> * Purl 2, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Alternately purl 5, knit 2. All the rows with
+<em>even</em> numbers are knitted like this, except that the number
+of the knitted stitches are increased by 2 in each of them. We will
+not, therefore, henceforth mention these rows.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> * Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl
+2. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> * Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2,
+purl 2. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> * Knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2,
+purl 2. Repeat from *. The pattern is continued in the same manner.
+The small gores formed between the ribs are increased by 2 stitches
+in every second row. Each of these gores has 13 stitches in the
+21st row, which is the last. Cast off all the stitches after this
+row.</p>
+
+<p>Take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as that used for
+the knitting work 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch of the
+selvedge, then the 2 following rows for the edging. 1st row:
+Alternately 1 treble, 1 chain, under which miss 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Alternately 1 double over 1 treble of
+preceding row, 1 purl (that is, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the
+first), under which miss 1. Over the first row of the knitting work
+1 row of close double crochet. The border is now completed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>322.--<em>Knee-cap in Knitting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: For 1 pair, 4 oz. pink 4-thread fleecy wool, and a
+small quantity of white ditto.</p>
+
+<p>Begin each knee-cap by casting on with pink wool 114 stitches,
+equally divided upon 4 needles, and joining them into a circle.
+Upon this number of stitches work 47 rounds, alternately knitting
+and purling 2 stitches. In the 48th round begin the gore which
+covers the knee; it is worked separately backward and forwards,
+always alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_327" id=
+"page_327">[327]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_322"><img alt="Knee-cap in Knitting." src=
+"images/image322.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>After 2 rows change the pattern, so as to form small squares
+Knit the first row of this gore upon 26 stitches slipped off from
+the last row on <span class="newpage"><a name="page_328" id=
+"page_328">[328]</a></span> to a separate needle. At the end of
+each following row knit the nearest stitch of the nearest needle,
+so as to increase 1 stitch in each row of the gore.</p>
+
+<p>Continue in this way until only 42 stitches remain of the ribbed
+part. After this work the remainder of the gore separately,
+decreasing once at the beginning and end of each row till only 26
+stitches remain; then take up 23 stitches of the selvedge on each
+side of these 26 stitches, and work 47 rounds, alternately knitting
+and purling 2 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>The edging at the top and bottom of the knee-cap is worked in
+crochet. With white wool make a chain of 50 stitches; turn and work
+1 row of crochet <em>&agrave; tricoter</em>; then work a second row
+thus: the first part, as usual, with white, but coming back, with
+pink make 4 chain between each stitch, work in the same way on the
+other side of the foundation chain, thus forming a small ruche, and
+sew it on to the edge of the knitting.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>323.--<em>Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Black Shetland wool.</p>
+
+<p>This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following
+pattern (commencing at the corner).</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the
+needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2
+together.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in the preceding row; the other stitches
+are purled. In the next row the holes are alternated; the
+neckerchief must of course be increased at the beginning and end of
+every other row. It measures at the upper edge 1 yard 16 inches
+across from one corner to the other; the lower corner is rounded
+off. The neckerchief is edged with a knitted lace.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_329" id=
+"page_329">[329]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_323"><img alt=
+"Knitted Neckerchief in Shetland Wool." src=
+"images/image323.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_330" id=
+"page_330">[330]</a></span>
+
+<p>The lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross
+way. Cast on 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:--Slip 1,
+knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the
+stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool
+forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 5.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the
+stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool forward,
+purl 13.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2
+together, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in the preceding row, purl
+13.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times
+alternately; knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed
+by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately
+knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit
+1.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit
+2 together, 5 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_331" id=
+"page_331">[331]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>15th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit
+2 together, 4 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 3.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.</p>
+
+<p><em>17th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit
+2 together, 3 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>18th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.</p>
+
+<p><em>19th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit
+2 together, twice alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 5.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.</p>
+
+<p><em>21st row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit
+2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>22nd row:</em> Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row.</p>
+
+<p><em>23rd row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit
+2 together, knit 7.</p>
+
+<p><em>24th row:</em> Purled. Repeat from the 1st row till the lace
+is sufficiently long. Then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace
+can be knitted somewhat narrower for the upper edge. One of the
+ends of the neckerchief is knotted, As seen in the illustration,
+and the other end is drawn through the knot.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>324 and 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black
+silk elastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons.</p>
+
+<p>This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple
+wool, so <span class="newpage"><a name="page_332" id=
+"page_332">[332]</a></span> that the raised ribs appear black on
+one side and purple on the other. The bodice fits quite close. It
+is fastened in front with black bone buttons and a steel buckle.
+Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at the bottom. Begin at
+the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast on 170 stitches.
+The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not too loose.
+Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--Slip the 1st
+stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were
+going to purl it, and knit 1. In the next row knit together the
+stitch which has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the
+wool forward, slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool
+forward. In the 25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as
+before.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_333" id=
+"page_333">[333]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_324"><img alt=
+"Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Back)." src=
+"images/image324.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_325"><img alt=
+"Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Front)." src=
+"images/image325.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with
+purple, but as the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be
+alternately knitted and purled. Work always 2 rows on the same side
+from right to left. The following 26th row is worked with black
+wool in common brioche stitch, only the slipped stitch of the
+preceding row is purled together with the stitch formed by throwing
+the wool forward. 27th row: Turn the work, with purple wool purled
+brioche stitch. 28th row: On the same side with black wool knitted
+brioche stitch. After having worked 40 rows all in the same manner,
+begin the front gore. Divide the stitches upon three needles, 82
+stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_334" id="page_334">[334]</a></span>
+each front part on the two other needles. Then work the first 11
+stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that
+side of the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted
+brioche stitch; the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with
+the wool thrown forward, therefore it is a purple rib. After this
+stitch begin the gore with the following 13 stitches. The ribs are
+then worked so that a purple one comes over a black one, and a
+black one over a purple one. Do not work upon the following black
+stitch; knit the following stitch with the one formed by throwing
+the wool forward. Throw the wool forward, and then only slip the
+black stitch which had been left, so that it comes behind the
+stitch which has just been knitted. This crossing of the stitch is
+repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together with
+the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool
+forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single
+black stitches. The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are
+then knitted together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in
+opposite directions. The three black stitches which are knitted off
+together as 1 stitch in the next row form the middle line of the
+front gore, and are continued in a straight line to the point of
+the gore. The crossing takes place twice in this row, but now the
+black stitch is slipped first. After the 24th stitch knit together
+the following stitch with the stitch formed by throwing the wool
+forward. Then continue to work in common brioche stitch to the
+other front part, where the gore begins before the 24th stitch from
+the end. In the next row, which is worked in purled brioche stitch
+with black wool, take up the black loop between two purple ribs
+after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitch <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_335" id="page_335">[335]</a></span>
+which is missing at that place. The 3 slipped stitches in the
+preceding row are purled together as one stitch with the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward between the ribs. The loop is
+also taken up on the other side of the front gore in the same
+manner, as well as on the other front part. Then work 6 rows
+without increasing or decreasing. The crossing of the stitch is
+repeated after every 7 rows, always on the knitted brioche stitch
+side, with purple wool. In the 18th row of the gore the 3 middle
+stitches are not knitted together, but separately, so that the
+pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. In the back 30 stitches only
+must be decreased, two in every 6th row. After the 60th row another
+decreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for
+the neck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch
+from the front edge in every 3rd row. The 5 stitches which close to
+the neck are cast off together with the 5 stitches on the
+shoulders. Then cast off loosely the stitches of the back; take all
+the selvedge stitches of the front on the needles, and knit 24 rows
+of brioche stitch with black wool, making 9 button-holes on the
+right front part. On the wrong side of this part sew on a strip of
+black silk, with slits worked round in button-hole stitch,
+stitching at the same time into the knitting. The following
+scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round the
+armholes with black wool:--Take the selvedge stitches on the
+needles, work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch
+purled, thread the wool into a Berlin wool-work needle, * cast off
+3 stitches together, draw the wool through the needle, and take the
+2 following stitches on the wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from
+*. Sew on the buttons the strips of silk elastic on either side of
+the black stripe at the bottom, and fasten the ends of the latter
+with the steel buckle.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_336" id=
+"page_336">[336]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>326.--Baby's Boot.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin
+wool; steel knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a
+sock in white wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the
+upper scalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red
+wool, divide them on four needles, and knit in rounds as
+follows:--1st and 2nd rounds: With red wool, purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd to 8th round:</em> With white wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1,
+throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times
+more from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the
+wool forward are knitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at
+the place where 3 stitches were knitted together in the 4th round,
+so that the decreasing of the preceding round forms the middle
+stitch of the 3 stitches to be decreased in this round.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th and 7th rounds:</em> Like the 5th.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th to 11th round:</em>With red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th and 11th rounds:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th to 30th round:</em> With white wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round to 30th round:</em> Alternately purl 1, knit 1,
+inserting the needle in the back part of the stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>31st to 33rd round:</em> With red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>31st round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>32nd round and 33rd round:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>34th and 35th rounds:</em> With white wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>34th round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>35th round:</em> Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together. Each stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is
+knitted as one stitch in the next round.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th to 38th round:</em> With red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th round: Knitted.</em></p>
+
+<p><em>37th and 38th rounds:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>39th to 47th round:</em> With white wool. Alternately purl
+1, slip 1, as if you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in
+front of the slipped <span class="newpage"><a name="page_337" id=
+"page_337">[337]</a></span> stitch; in the following rounds take
+care to purl the slipped stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_326"><img alt="Baby's Boot." src=
+"images/image326.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30
+stitches untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red
+wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>48th to 50th row:</em> With red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>48th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>49th row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>50th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>51st to 85th row:</em> With white wool in the pattern
+described in the 39th round. But as you work backwards and forwards
+you must alternately knit <span class="newpage"><a name="page_338"
+id="page_338">[338]</a></span> and purl the stitches. Decrease 1
+stitch at the beginning and at the end of the 84th and 85th rows;
+decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th row, so that the 85th
+row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>86th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>87th row:</em> Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl
+2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the
+94th, decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the
+whole number of stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the
+gored part and dividing them with the 30 other stitches on four
+needles. Knit once more in rounds; the next 20 rounds are
+alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round purled. In the 2 last knitted
+rounds decrease twice close together in the middle of the back part
+of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other round decrease twice in
+the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9 stitches between the
+two decreasings. The number of stitches between the decreasings
+decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form slanting
+lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by
+knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock
+part is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking
+all the red stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and
+knitting 4 rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch
+always outside; then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid
+through the open-work row in the sock part, and finish it off at
+either end with tassels to match.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>327.--<em>Knitted Border for a Bedquilt</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 8 white knitting
+cotton; thick steel pins.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the
+border, which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain
+rows:</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Alternately make 1, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_339" id=
+"page_339">[339]</a></span>
+
+<p>Then 5 more plain rows.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_327"><img alt=
+"Knitted Border for a Bedquilt." src=
+"images/image327.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Now begin the pattern:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> * Make 1, knit 1 <em>slantways</em> (to knit a
+stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and
+from right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4
+times more than from * to the end of the row. <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_340" id="page_340">[340]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em>Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5;
+knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to
+the end of the row.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> The same as the second.</p>
+
+<p>The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our
+illustration. The increasing caused by knitting the <em>made</em>
+stitches is regularly repeated in each second row, so that the
+stitches between the striped divisions increase, and form large
+triangles; the striped divisions, on the other hand, are narrowed
+so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain this result,
+decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows, by
+purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so
+that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In
+the 28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted
+slantways, so that there will be only 6 stitches left for each
+division; these stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th
+rows. In the 31st row they are knitted together, two and two. There
+remain in each division three more stitches, which are knitted
+together in the 34th row. Two rows entirely purled complete the
+upper edge of the border.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>328.--<em>Knitted Quilt.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different
+colours, and in that case each strip should contain 1 row of
+patterns; or the quilt may <span class="newpage"><a name="page_341"
+id="page_341">[341]</a></span> be composed of wide strips with
+several rows of patterns, those of one row being placed between
+those of the preceding. In the first case, that is if you work
+narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide strips are
+preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our pattern was
+worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip is
+knitted the short way.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_328"><img alt="Knitted Quilt." src=
+"images/image328.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make
+1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_342" id=
+"page_342">[342]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled
+in the preceding row, and purl all those that were made.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4.
+Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all
+the rest.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4.
+Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> The same as the 5th.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and
+so on.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> The same as the 5th row.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the
+slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> Knit all the purled stitches, purl all the
+rest.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the
+slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> The same as the 11th.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the
+slipped stitch over, purl 4, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th row:</em> Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat
+from * 3 times more; knit 2 together, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p>The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are
+only 4 in this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you
+purl 3 stitches instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th
+made stitch, you purl 4 more stitches. Repeat alternately these 2
+rows of raised patterns, and when you have a sufficient number of
+strips sew them together. Trim the quilt all round with a knotted
+fringe.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>329.--<em>Stitch in Knitting, for Couvrettes, Comforters, Opera
+Caps, Carriage Shawls, Jackets, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No.
+20, or fine wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on an uneven number of stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Slip 1, * make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1.
+Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, * knit 2 together, and repeat from *
+to the end of the row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_329"><img alt=
+"Stitch for Couvrettes, Comforters, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image329.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_343" id=
+"page_343">[343]</a></span>
+
+<p>330 <em>and</em> 331.--<em>Knitted Veil.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Fine Shetland wool.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_330"><img alt="Knitted Veil." src=
+"images/image330.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Illustration 330 represents a knitted veil in reduced size. The
+original was worked with fine Shetland wool in an open pattern; it
+is edged with a knitted lace. Its length is 24 inches, its width 18
+inches. Work the veil from a paper pattern of a shape corresponding
+to that of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_344" id=
+"page_344">[344]</a></span> illustration 330. Compare the paper
+shape often with the knitting in the course of the work, and try to
+keep them alike.</p>
+
+<p>Knit the veil in the pattern of the original, or in the pattern
+of illustration 331. For the former one begin at the lower edge of
+the veil, cast on 45 stitches upon thick wooden needles, and
+work</p>
+
+<p><em>the 1st row:</em> * Knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together twice, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, * throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, and
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Like the 2nd row. The pattern must be
+reversed. The pattern figures increase with the increasings at the
+beginning and at the end of each row.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_345" id=
+"page_345">[345]</a></span>
+
+<p>The pattern of illustration 331 consists of the 2 following
+rows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Slip 1, then alternately throw the wool
+forward, and knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Entirely knitted; make 1 stitch of the wool
+thrown forward in the last row. When the veil is finished, wet it,
+and stretch it over paper or pasteboard; let it dry, and then edge
+it with the following lace:--Cast on 10, knit the 1st.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 9.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw
+the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw
+the wool forward, knit 2 together 3 times, knit 3.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Cast off 3 stitches, knit 10.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_331"><img alt="Pattern of Veil." src=
+"images/image331.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_332"><img alt=
+"Knitted Pattern with Embroidery." src=
+"images/image332.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_346" id=
+"page_346">[346]</a></span>
+
+<p>332.--<em>Knitted Pattern with Raised Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8
+or 20.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked in rows going backwards and forwards with
+thick or fine cotton according to the use you wish to make of it.
+The star-like figures on the knitted squares are worked with soft
+cotton in <em>point de poste</em>. Cast on a number of stitches
+long enough (19 stitches are necessary for the two squares), work
+the 1st row: * Knit 11 stitches, alternately 4 times knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward. Repeat from *, The 2nd row is
+worked like the 1st, only purled, in this row, as well as in the
+following ones, the stitch must be knitted with the cotton thrown
+forward <em>after</em> the stitch, the last stitch of a plain
+square with the first cotton thrown forward of the open-work
+figure. The number of stitches in the last must always be 8. The
+pattern consists <span class="newpage"><a name="page_347" id=
+"page_347">[347]</a></span> alternately of these two rows. Each
+pattern contains 12 rows, with the 13th the squares are reversed.
+The star figures are embroidered with double cotton by working 5
+chain stitch in the middle of each square; draw the needle
+underneath the knitting to the next centre of a square.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>333 <em>and</em> 334.--<em>Knitted Table Cover, (see page <a
+href="#page_578">578</a>.)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s coarse knitting
+cotton; thick steel knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_333"><img alt="Table-Cover Border." src=
+"images/image333.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This cover is suitable for either a large or a small table, as
+the pattern may be increased as much as required. It is suitable
+for antimacassars. Cast on 4 stitches, join them into a circle, and
+work the 1st round four times alternately. Throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Entirely knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. Repeat 7
+times more from *. After every pattern round knit 1 round plain.
+Until after the 21st round, we shall not mention this any more.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. From
+the 7th to the 12th round the knitted stitches in every other round
+increase by 1 stitch, so that in the 12th round there are 7
+stitches between those formed by throwing the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 4, knit 2 together *.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_348" id=
+"page_348">[348]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>15th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together *.</p>
+
+<p><em>17th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together *.</p>
+
+<p><em>19th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, *.</p>
+
+<p><em>21st round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>22nd round:</em> * Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2
+together, knit 3 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>23rd round:</em> * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>24th round:</em> * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>25th round:</em> * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>26th round:</em> Entirely knitted *.</p>
+
+<p><em>27th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>28th round:</em> Entirely knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>29th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 9,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>30th round:</em> Entirely knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>31st round:</em> * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 9,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>32nd round:</em> Entirely knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>33rd round:</em> * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 9,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 4 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>34th round:</em> * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2
+together, knit 5 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>35th round:</em> * Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 7,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 5 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th round:</em> * Knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2
+together, knit 6 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>37th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5 three
+times, throw the cotton forward, knit 1 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>38th round:</em> * Knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2
+together, knit 8 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>39th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 6,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 3. throw the cotton forward, knit 6,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>40th round:</em> * Knit 9, knit 3 together, knit 10*.</p>
+
+<p><em>41st round:</em> * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit
+15, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_349" id=
+"page_349">[349]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>42nd round:</em> * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2
+together, knit 4 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>43rd round:</em> * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit
+13, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>44th round:</em> * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2
+together, knit 5 *.</p>
+
+<p>When the cover is completed, edge it all round, with the
+following border worked the short way:--Cast on 5 stitches and knit
+the 1st row, slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, knit the rest. Repeat this row after
+every pattern row.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th round:</em> Cast off 8 stitches, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th round:</em> Entirely knitted. Begin again at the 1st
+row, knit a sufficient length of the border, and then trim the
+cover with it on the outer edge.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_335"><img alt="Looped Knitting." src=
+"images/image335.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_350" id=
+"page_350">[350]</a></span>
+
+<p>335.--<em>Looped Knitting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 4-thread fleecy wool; 2 wooden knitting-needles; 1
+flat wooden mesh.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, and knit the 1st row
+plain.</p>
+
+<p>2<em>nd Row</em>--Slip the 1st stitch; insert the needle into
+the next stitch, and throw the cotton forward as if you were going
+to knit the stitch; place the mesh behind the needle in the right
+hand, and turn the wool which is on this needle upwards, bring it
+back again on the needle so that it is wound once round the mesh,
+and twice round the needle. Then only the double stitch through the
+second stitch, knit it, and insert the needle into the next stitch,
+and repeat what has been explained. Knit the last stitch without a
+loop.</p>
+
+<p>3<em>rd Row</em>--Before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and
+knit one <span class="newpage"><a name="page_351" id=
+"page_351">[351]</a></span> plain row. Every double stitch is
+knitted as one stitch, so as to attain the same number of stitches
+as in the 1st row.</p>
+
+<p>4<em>th Row</em>--Like the 2nd row. Repeat these rows as often
+as required.</p>
+
+<p>This knitting is chiefly used for borders of mats.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_336"><img alt="Pattern for Comforters.] "
+src="images/image336.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>336.--<em>Knitted Pattern for Comforters.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 4-thread fleecy; 2 wooden knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on a sufficient number of stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> * 3 stitches in the first stitch, knit 1, purl
+1, knit 1, knit 3 stitches together, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Plain knitting.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Knitted. Repeat these four rows, only in the
+next row the 3 stitches knitted together are worked on the 3
+stitches worked in 1 stitch, and the 3 stitches to be worked in 1
+stitch are to be placed on the one formed by knitting 3 stitches
+together.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_352" id=
+"page_352">[352]</a></span>
+
+<p>337.--<em>Knitted D'Oyley. (See page <a href=
+"#page_579">579</a>.)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 36;
+glazed embroidery cotton No. 10; steel knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is knitted with very fine crochet cotton. The
+middle part as well as the lace border are worked separately; the
+latter is sewn on to the middle part. The spots in the thick parts
+are worked in afterwards with coarser cotton. Commence the pattern
+in the centre, cast on 6 stitches, join them into a circle, and
+knit 2 plain rounds.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th and 5th rounds:</em> Plain.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> Plain. Every other round is plain. We shall
+not mention these plain rounds any more.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Knit 2, * throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the
+round; lastly, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p>The 18th, 20th, 22nd, and 24th rounds are worked like the 16th
+round; only the middle plain part of the pattern figures increases
+by 2 stitches in every pattern round, so that there are 15 plain
+stitches in the 24th round between the 2 stitches formed on either
+side of the same by throwing the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em><span class="newpage"><a name="page_353" id=
+"page_353">[353]</a></span> 26th round:</em> * Throw the cotton
+forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>28th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>30th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward knit 3 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>32nd round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 13, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>34th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5,
+throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>38th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+3, throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>40th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_354" id=
+"page_354">[354]</a></span> together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>42nd round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>44th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>45th and 46th rounds:</em> Plain, then cast off loosely.</p>
+
+<p>For the lace border, which is worked in the short way backwards
+and forwards, cast on 22 stitches and knit as follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 11.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 7,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 9.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 9,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em><span class="newpage"><a name="page_355" id=
+"page_355">[355]</a></span> 6th row:</em> Knit 2 together (knit
+together the stitch and the next stitch formed by throwing the
+cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5,
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 10.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 10, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together
+(stitch formed by throwing the cotton forward and the next
+stitch).</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 12.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 14.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together. Then begin again
+on the 2nd row, and work on till the border is long enough; sew the
+lace on to the centre, slightly gathering the former. Lastly, work
+in the spots with glazed or coarse embroidery cotton.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_356" id=
+"page_356">[356]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>338.--Knitted Braces</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8
+or 12.</p>
+
+<p>These braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double;
+the braces themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are
+knitted plain. Begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a
+foundation chain of 14 stitches, knit 5 rows plain backwards and
+forwards, then divide the stitches into two halves to form the
+button-hole; knit 15 rows on each of the halves consisting of 7
+stitches; then take the 14 stitches again on one needle and work 17
+rows on them. Then work a second button-hole like the first one;
+knit 6 more rows plain, increasing 1 at the end of every row, so
+that the number of stitches at the end of the lappet is 20.</p>
+
+<p>Then begin the pattern in brioche stitch; it is worked as
+follows:--Knit first 1 row, then slip the first stitch of the first
+following pattern row, * throw the cotton forward, slip the next
+stitch (slip the stitches always as if you were going to purl
+them), knit 2 together; repeat 5 times more from *; the last stitch
+is knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row of the pattern:</em> Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 2;
+the stitch which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing
+the cotton forward is slipped after the 2nd knitted stitch; repeat
+5 times more from *; knit the last stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip the 1st stitch, * decrease 1 (here, and
+in all the following rows, knit the next stitch together with the
+stitch before it, which has been formed in the preceding row by
+throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, slip 1;
+repeat from *; knit the last stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 1, slip the stitch
+which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton
+forward, knit 1, knit the last stitch. Repeat these 4 rows till the
+braces are long enough. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_357"
+id="page_357">[357]</a></span> The pattern is 19 inches long. Then
+knit 6 rows plain, decreasing 1 at the end of every row, then work
+each lappet separately, dividing the stitches so that each lappet
+is 7 stitches wide. Each lappet has 72 rows; after the first 18
+rows make a button-hole as described for the preceding one. Work 18
+rows between the 1st and 2nd button-hole. The lappets are rounded
+off by decreasing after the 2nd button-hole.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_338"><img alt="Knitted Braces." src=
+"images/image338.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>339.--<em>Pattern for Knitted Curtains, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No.
+8.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is suitable for knitting different articles,
+according to the thickness of the cotton used. The number of
+stitches must be divided by ten. The pattern is knitted backwards
+and forwards.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_358" id=
+"page_358">[358]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_339"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Knitted Curtains.] " src=
+"images/image339.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> All plain.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> * Knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the
+slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 5, knit 2 together, make
+2. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Purl the long stitch formed by making 2 in
+preceding row, * make 2, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together,
+make 2, purl 3. Repeat from *. (By <em>make</em> 2 is meant twist
+the cotton twice round the needle, which forms one long stitch, and
+is knitted or purled as such in next row.)</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Knit 3, * make 2, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the
+slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 5.
+Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Purl 3, * make 2, purl 3 together, make 2,
+purl 7. Repeat from*.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> Knit 3, * knit 2 together (1 stitch and 1 long
+stitch), make 2, knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped
+stitch over (the knitted stitch is a <em>long stitch</em>), knit 5.
+Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p>Continue the pattern by repeating always from the 2nd to the 5th
+row; the 6th row is the repetition of the 2nd row, but it is begun
+(compare <span class="newpage"><a name="page_359" id=
+"page_359">[359]</a></span> the two rows) about the middle of the
+2nd row, so as to change the places of the thick diamonds in the
+following pattern. This will be easily understood in the course of
+the work.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>340.--Knitted Insertion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20
+or 30.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 14 stitches, and knit in rows, backwards and forwards,
+as follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward,
+knit 2, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2
+together, throw cotton forward, knit 3. This row is repeated 18
+times more; the stitch formed by throwing the cotton forward is
+knitted as 1 stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1;
+place next 3 stitches upon another needle behind the cotton, and
+leave them alone; knit 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward,
+now knit the first 2 of the 3 stitches which have been left; knit
+the last of the 3 together with the next stitch on the needle,
+throw cotton forward, knit 3. Repeat these 20 rows till strip is
+long enough.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_340"><img alt="Knitted Insertion." src=
+"images/image340.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>341 <em>and</em> 342.--<em>Knitted Cover for Sofa
+Cushion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No.
+12; eight ply fleecy wool.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_341"><img alt="Stitch for Sofa Cover." src=
+"images/image341.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This cushion (15 inches wide, 12 inches high) is made of grey
+calico; it is covered on one side with knitting, worked with grey
+crochet cotton. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_360" id=
+"page_360">[360]</a></span> The knitted cover has an open-work
+pattern, worked backwards and forwards on a number of stitches
+which can be divided by 2, and which must suit the width of the
+cushion, in the following manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, knit the other stitches. The stitch
+formed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Knit 1, * throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together. Repeat from *; after the last decreasing knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Like the 2nd row.</p>
+
+<p>These four rows are repeated till the cover is sufficiently
+large. Draw a narrow piece of red worsted braid through every other
+open-work row of the pattern, as can be seen in illustration 341.
+When the cushion has been covered with the knitting, it is edged
+all round with a border knitted the long way, in the
+above-mentioned open-work pattern; it is 14 rows wide, and also
+trimmed with worsted braid; a fringe of grey cotton and red wool, 3
+1/4 inches wide, is sewn on underneath the border at the bottom of
+the cushion; to this is added a thick red worsted cord, by which
+the cushion is hung on over the back of an arm-chair. The <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_361" id="page_361">[361]</a></span>
+cushion, on account of its simplicity, is especially suitable for
+garden chairs.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_342"><img alt="Sofa Cushion." src=
+"images/image342.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>343.--Netted Nightcap.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No.
+12.</p>
+
+<p>This cap is netted with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring
+three-quarters of an inch round; work first a long square for the
+centre <span class="newpage"><a name="page_362" id=
+"page_362">[362]</a></span> of the crown, cast on 28 stitches, and
+work backwards and forwards 27 rows with the same number of
+stitches. Then work 34 rounds round this square, and fasten the
+cotton. Then count 43 stitches for the front border, and 24
+stitches for the back border, and leave them for the edge of the
+cap. On the remaining stitches on each side work the strings in 95
+rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches; each
+string is pointed off at the lower end by decreasing 1 stitch in
+every row. Sew in a narrow piece of tape in the back border of the
+cap; the remaining part of the border, as well as the strings, are
+trimmed with crochet lace or with netted edging, No. 311.</p>
+
+
+
+<center><a name="image_343"><img alt="Netted Nightcap." src=
+"images/image343.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_363" id=
+"page_363">[363]</a></span>
+
+<p>344.--<em>Netted Nightcap</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton,
+3-thread, No. 30.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_344"><img alt="-Netted Nightcap." src=
+"images/image344.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This nightcap is very simple and practical. It consists of two
+similar three-cornered pieces, sewn together so as to form a double
+triangle; the point of the triangle is turned back, as seen in
+illustration, and fastened on the lower half of the same. The cap
+is edged with a lace; a <span class="newpage"><a name="page_364"
+id="page_364">[364]</a></span> similar lace covers the seam between
+both parts of the cap. The pattern is worked with crochet cotton
+over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch round. Begin each
+half in the corner; cast on 2 stitches, and work backwards and
+forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row, till the
+number of stitches is 60. Then sew both halves together, and trim
+the cap and strings (the latter are worked as on the cap No. 343)
+with the following lace: work 2 rows of open-work treble
+stitches--the treble stitches are divided by 1 chain--then work 1
+row of double, always working 4 double round the chain stitches
+which divide 2 treble in the preceding row, or with netted edging
+No. 311.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>345.--<em>Knitted Pattern</em>.-Netted Nightcap.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20
+for couvrettes, or Berlin wool for sofa quilts.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern can be worked either in wool or cotton, and is
+suitable for many purposes. Cast on a sufficient number of
+stitches, divided by 18, for the 1st row: Knit 4, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward knit 2 together,
+knit 4, purl 6, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> The stitches knitted in the 1st row are purled
+as well as the stitches formed by throwing the cotton forward; the
+purled stitches are knitted. This row is repeated alternately,
+therefore we shall not mention it again.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> * Knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl
+2.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Purl 4, * knit 4, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4,
+purl 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Knit 2, * purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> Knit 2, * purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_365" id=
+"page_365">[365]</a></span> together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> * Knit 6, purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, *
+knit 4, purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th row:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2, knit 6.
+The knitting can now be easily continued from illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_345"><img alt="Knitted Pattern." src=
+"images/image345.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_366" id=
+"page_366">[366]</a></span>
+
+<p>346 <em>to</em> 348.--Knitted Shawl.</p>
+
+<p>Materials Shetland wool, white and scarlet; steel needles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_346"><img alt="Pattern for Shawl (348)."
+src="images/image346.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_347"><img alt="Pattern for Shawl (348)."
+src="images/image347.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This shawl is knitted in the patterns given on Nos. 346 and 347.
+Both illustrations show the patterns worked in coarse wool, so as
+to be clearer. Begin the shawl, which is square, on one side, cast
+on a sufficient number of stitches (on our pattern 290); the
+needles must not be too fine, as the work should be loose and
+elastic.</p>
+
+<p>Knit first 2 rows plain, then 3 of the open-work row of pattern
+No. 346, which is worked in the following manner:--</p>
+
+<p>1st row: Slip the first stitch, * knit 2 together, inserting the
+needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, knit 2 together,
+throw the wool twice forward; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p>2nd row: Knit 1 and purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the
+wool forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled.
+In the next row the holes are alternated--that is, after the 1st
+slipped stitch knit 1, throw the wool forward, and then knit twice
+2 together.</p>
+
+<p>When 3 such open-work rows are completed, knit 1 row plain, and
+then <span class="newpage"><a name="page_367" id=
+"page_367">[367]</a></span> work the pattern seen on No. 347, which
+forms the ground, and is worked in the following way:--1st row:
+Slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, and
+decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next, and drawing the
+slip stitch over the knitted one.</p>
+
+<p>2nd row, entirely purled.</p>
+
+<p>When 6 such rows have been worked in this pattern, work again 9
+rows of the open-work pattern, but work on each side of the 2
+stripes, each 6 stitches wide, in the pattern of the ground (No.
+347); each first stripe is at a distance of 4 stitches from the
+edge, and each second stripe at a distance of 20 stitches. After
+the 9th open-work row, work again 6 rows in the pattern of the
+ground, then again 8 open-work rows, and then begin the ground,
+only continue to work on both sides of the shawl the narrow stripes
+of the ground pattern, the narrow outer and the two wide inner
+stripes of the border in the open-work pattern. When the ground
+(pattern No. 347) is square, finish the shawl at the top with two
+wide <span class="newpage"><a name="page_368" id=
+"page_368">[368]</a></span> and one narrow open-work row, as at the
+bottom, divided by stripes in the ground pattern. Knot in, all
+round the shawl, a fringe of scarlet wool; the fringe must be 3-1/2
+inches deep.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_348"><img alt="Knitted Shawl." src=
+"images/image348.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ TABLE OF SIZES OF MESSRS. WALTER EVANS &amp; Co.'s KNITTING
+COTTON, 3 THREADS.
+<center>
+<table summary=
+"TABLE OF SIZES OF MESSRS. WALTER EVANS &amp; Co.'s KNITTING COTTON, 3 THREADS."
+ border="2" cellpadding="4">
+<tr>
+<th>&nbsp;</th>
+<th>No.</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Borders</td>
+<td>20, 80</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Couvrettes</td>
+<td>8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>D'Oyleys</td>
+<td>80, 100</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Edgings</td>
+<td>16, 30</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Insertions</td>
+<td>30, 50</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nightcaps</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Quilts</td>
+<td>4, 8, 12</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Socks</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Table Covers</td>
+<td>16</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_369" id=
+"page_369">[369]</a></span> <a name=
+"ALPHABETS_FOR_MONOGRAMS_AND_INITIALS"></a> <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_370" id="page_370">[370]</a></span>
+
+<h3>MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS.</h3>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_371" id=
+"page_371">[371]</a></span>
+
+<h3>ALPHABETS.</h3>
+
+<p>349.--<em>Alphabet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>These letters are embroidered in overcast stitch and in satin
+stitch, and are the capitals for the alphabet No. 350. Stars
+ornament this very effective alphabet.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_372" id=
+"page_372">[372]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_349"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image349.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_349a"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image349a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_349b"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image349b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_374" id=
+"page_374">[374]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_349c"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image349c.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>350.--<em>Alphabet (Small Letters)</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>This alphabet will be found useful for marking linen as well as
+pocket-handkerchiefs. It is worked in satin stitch, the stars in
+fine overcast; an eyelet-hole occupies the centre of each star.</p>
+
+<p><span class="newpage"><a name="page_375" id=
+"page_375">[375]</a></span></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_350"><img alt="Alphabets (Small Letters)"
+src="images/image350.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_350a"><img alt="Alphabets (Small Letters)"
+src="images/image350a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>351.--<em>Alphabet of Small Capitals</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+12 for linen. No. 18 for handkerchiefs.</p>
+
+<p>These letters will be found useful for marking table-linen; they
+may be worked either in green, red, or white cotton. The letters
+are worked in raised satin stitch with raised dots and open
+eyelet-holes.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_376" id=
+"page_376">[376]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_351"><img alt="Alphabet of Small Capitals."
+src="images/image351.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_351a"><img alt="Alphabet of Small Capitals."
+src="images/image351a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_379" id=
+"page_379">[379]</a></span>
+
+<p>352.--<em>Alphabet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+12.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty alphabet is worked in satin stitch, both raised and
+veined; the design is composed of forget-me-not blossoms and
+leaves. Raised dots worked in satin stitch form all the fine
+lines.</p>
+
+
+
+<center><a name="image_352"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch.]"
+src="images/image352.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_352a"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch.]"
+src="images/image352a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_381" id=
+"page_381">[381]</a></span>
+
+<p>353.--Alphabet in Coral Stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Coloured ingrain marking cotton, or black sewing silk,
+or filoselle.</p>
+
+<p>The letters of this alphabet are particularly suitable for
+pocket-handkerchiefs. The embroidery is worked either with marking
+cotton, or coloured or black sewing silk; the long white lines are
+worked in overcast stitch, the small white spots in satin stitch,
+the remaining parts of the letters in coral stitch, as can be
+distinctly seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_353"><img alt="Alphabet in Coral Stitch."
+src="images/image353.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_353a"><img alt="Alphabet in Coral Stitch."
+src="images/image353a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_353b"><img alt="Alphabet in Coral Stitch."
+src="images/image353b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_383" id=
+"page_383">[383]</a></span>
+
+<p>354--- Small Alphabet.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This useful alphabet is worked in satin stitch, veined in parts
+and ornamented with tendrils. As the alphabet of capitals (page
+377, No. 351) and that of these small letters correspond, any name
+may be worked from them.</p>
+
+
+
+<center><a name="image_354"><img alt="Alphabet of Small Letters.]"
+src="images/image354.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_354a"><img alt="Alphabet of Small Letters.]"
+src="images/image354a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_385" id=
+"page_385">[385]</a></span>
+
+<p>355.--Alphabet (Capitals).</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+12 and 20.</p>
+
+<p>This alphabet is worked in raised satin stitch, the outlines
+being partly scalloped; for the fine lines, which should be worked
+in overcast, embroidery cotton No. 20 should be employed.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_355"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch"
+src="images/image355.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_355a"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch"
+src="images/image355a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_355b"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch"
+src="images/image355b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_387" id=
+"page_387">[387]</a></span>
+
+<p>356. Alphabet (Capitals).</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>The alphabet here illustrated is in the florid style; the
+graceful flowing lines are worked in raised satin stitch, as well
+as the variously-sized dots which ornament the letters.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_356"><img alt="Alphabet (Florid Capitals)."
+src="images/image356.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_356a"><img alt="Alphabet (Florid Capitals)."
+src="images/image356a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_356b"><img alt="Alphabet (Florid Capitals)."
+src="images/image356b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_356c"><img alt="Alphabet (Florid Capitals)."
+src="images/image356c.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_391" id=
+"page_391">[391]</a></span>
+
+<p>357--Alphabet.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+12 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>The letters are worked in point d'or, or dotted stitch, with an
+outline in fine overcast, and large raised spots in satin stitch.
+The ornamental wreaths round the first five letters can of course
+be worked round any of the others. It is very fashionable to work
+one letter only upon handkerchief corners.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_357"><img alt="Alphabet in point d'or." src=
+"images/image357.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_357a"><img alt="Alphabet in point d'or."
+src="images/image357a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_393" id=
+"page_393">[393]</a></span>
+
+<p>358.--<em>Alphabet in White Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This alphabet is worked in appliqu&eacute;; the ears of corn
+only are worked in overcast, satin, and knotted stitch. These
+letters look particularly well on transparent materials. The ears
+may be omitted by beginners, though they add much to the beauty of
+the alphabet. To this alphabet are added the ten numerals, which
+will be found exceedingly useful. By means of the whole alphabet
+and all these figures, any combination of initials and numbers can
+be made.</p>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_358"><img alt=
+"Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery." src=
+"images/image358.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_358a"><img alt=
+"Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery." src=
+"images/image358a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_358b"><img alt=
+"Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery." src=
+"images/image358b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_358c"><img alt=
+"Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery." src=
+"images/image358c.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_396" id=
+"page_396">[396]</a></span> 359.--<em>Alphabet (see page </em><a
+href="#page_402">402</a>).
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20; very fine black silk.</p>
+
+<p>The vine-leaves and grapes of this graceful and fanciful
+alphabet are worked in veined and slightly raised satin stitch, the
+tendrils in point russe; for these the fine black silk is
+employed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>360.--<em>Sampler (Frontispiece</em>).</p>
+
+<p>Materials: cambric muslin or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16, 18, and 20; red cotton and
+black silk.</p>
+
+<p>This illustration shows a sampler which will be found useful for
+learning to embroider letters for marking linen. The material used
+is cambric muslin or fine linen. Work the embroidery with white
+embroidery cotton, red cotton, or black silk. The thick parts of
+the letters are worked in slanting satin stitch and back stitch;
+the outlines of the stitched parts are worked in overcast, as well
+as the fine outlines of the letters and all the fine outlines of
+the patterns. The monograms and crowns are worked in a similar
+manner. Work button-hole stitch round the outside of the sampler.
+The letters and crowns may, of course, be employed for other
+purposes.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_397" id=
+"page_397">[397]</a></span>
+
+<p>361.--<em>Alphabet (Capitals)</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>This effective alphabet is very easily worked, the stitches
+employed being raised and veined satin stitch, and overcast. The
+raised dots are worked in satin stitch, care being taken to
+preserve their position in the <em>centre</em> of each open
+space.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_361"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image361.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_361a"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image361a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_361b"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image361b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_401" id=
+"page_401">[401]</a></span> <a name="MONOGRAMS_AND_INITIALS"></a>
+
+<h3>MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS.</h3>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_362"><img alt="Alice." src=
+"images/image362.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>362.--<em>Alice</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>The letters of this name, except the initial letter, are very
+simple, being worked in plain satin stitch, while the initial
+letter is worked in raised satin stitch, point de poste, and
+overcast.</p>
+
+<p><span class="newpage"><a name="page_402" id=
+"page_402">[402]</a></span> 363.--<em>Amalie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+16 and 20.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_363"><img alt="Amalie." src=
+"images/image363.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The highly-ornate initial of this name is not difficult to work,
+requiring only great regularity and evenness in embroidering the
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_403" id=
+"page_403">[403]</a></span> tendrils and eyelet-holes. The veinings
+of the letter must be carefully defined. The remainder of the name
+is executed in plain satin stitch, a few eyelet-holes being
+introduced.</p>
+
+<p>"Amalie" can easily be altered into "Amelia" by changing the
+place of the <em>a</em> and <em>e</em>. In the centre of each
+letter a large eyelet-hole is placed; smaller eyelet-holes of
+graduated sizes occupy parts of the overcast scrolls, which should
+be worked with No. 20 cotton. The initial letter is worked in
+raised satin stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_364"><img alt="Amy." src=
+"images/image364.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>364.--<em>Amy</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty name is worked in delicately raised satin stitch and
+point de pois; the dots in dotted satin stitch, and the elegant
+little design beneath is worked in point russe.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_404" id=
+"page_404">[404]</a></span>
+
+<p>365.--<em>Annie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_365"><img alt="Annie." src=
+"images/image365.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The letter <em>A</em> of this name is rather elaborate, and is
+worked in point de pois or back stitching, the outlines in fine
+overcast, the letters in satin stitch. The ornaments surrounding
+the word "Annie" are worked in overcast.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_405" id=
+"page_405">[405]</a></span>
+
+<p>366.--<em>A.M.K.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16. This name is worked in satin stitch, with small dots of raised
+satin stitch. The eyelet-holes in the middle letter to be worked in
+overcast.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_366"><img alt="A.M.K." src=
+"images/image366.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>367.--<em>B.R.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_367"><img alt="B.R." src=
+"images/image367.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These initials are worked in appliqu&eacute; in the centre of a
+medallion in satin stitch, overcast, and lace stitches.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_406" id=
+"page_406">[406]</a></span>
+
+<p>368.--<em>Carrie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_407" id=
+"page_407">[407]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_368"><img alt="Carrie." src=
+"images/image368.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This name is very easy to work, being very clearly and simply
+embroidered in overcast and satin stitch. The thick dots may be
+worked without the eyelet-holes if preferred.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_369"><img alt="Caroline." src=
+"images/image369.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>369.--<em>Caroline</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty name requires care in working; the leaves which
+adorn the letters must be very well defined; they, as well as the
+letters, are embroidered in satin stitch, the initial letter being
+veined, and the ornaments worked in overcast and eyelet-holes.</p>
+
+<p>370.--<em>Charlotte</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_370"><img alt="Charlotte." src=
+"images/image370.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This name is worked in satin stitch and overcast, the small and
+elegant dots in point de russe and graduated satin stitch; the
+large ones are worked in raised satin stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_408" id=
+"page_408">[408]</a></span>
+
+<p>371.--<em>Cornelie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>This word is worked in plain satin stitch, the ornamentation in
+overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_371"><img alt="Cornelie." src=
+"images/image371.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>372.--<em>C.M.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>This design is simple, is worked in graduated satin stitch, and
+is most elegant.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_372"><img alt="C.M." src=
+"images/image372.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_409" id=
+"page_409">[409]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_373"><img alt="Dora." src=
+"images/image373.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_410" id=
+"page_410">[410]</a></span>
+
+<p>373.--<em>Dora</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+30.</p>
+
+<p>This elaborate design should not be attempted by beginners in
+the art of embroidery; it is worked in overcast stitch, raised and
+veined satin stitch; the tendrils are entirely worked in graduated
+overcast; the name is placed over a graceful spray of wild flowers
+worked in the above-named stitches. This pattern, although
+originally designed to be worked on net or fine muslin, is far more
+effective when worked on cambric or fine lawn.</p>
+
+<p>374.--<em>D.C.</em></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_374"><img alt="D.C." src=
+"images/image374.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>These letters are worked in satin stitch and veined satin
+stitch; the forget-me-nots are worked in raised satin stitch with a
+small eyelet-hole in the middle worked in overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<p>375.--<em>Emily</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16. This name is worked in satin stitch, the dots in the middle in
+point de <span class="newpage"><a name="page_411" id=
+"page_411">[411]</a></span> poste, the rest of the letters in satin
+stitch and in dotted satin stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_375"><img alt="Emily." src=
+"images/image375.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>376.--<em>Ernestine</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This elegant design is most effective; the first letter very
+elaborate; the rest of the letters simply worked in satin stitch.
+The small stars are worked in overcast stitch, and the initial
+letter itself in veined satin stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_376"><img alt="Ernestine." src=
+"images/image376.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>377.--<em>Etta</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+10.</p>
+
+<p>The letters which compose this name are formed entirely of
+leaves, flowers, and tendrils, worked entirely in satin stitch and
+overcast; the tendrils which surround the name are worked in
+overcast, and have a few eyelet-holes placed among them.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_377"><img alt="Etta." src=
+"images/image377.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_414" id=
+"page_414">[414]</a></span>
+
+<p>378.--<em>Eva</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+16 and 20.</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked in satin stitch, the leaf in point de sable;
+the veinings are worked in raised satin stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_378"><img alt="Eva." src=
+"images/image378.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>379.--<em>E.A</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s White and Red
+Embroidery Cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<p>This very pretty monogram is worked quite in a new style of
+embroidery. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_415" id=
+"page_415">[415]</a></span> The design represents the emblems of
+Faith, Hope, and Charity. The outlines of the shield and cross are
+worked in overcast, the initials "E.A.," the torch, and the anchor
+in satin stitch with white cotton, the leaves partly in satin
+stitch with white and partly in point d'or with red cotton, with
+only a fine outline in overcast. The cross and the flames of the
+torch are embroidered in the same manner.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_379"><img alt="E.A." src=
+"images/image379.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>380.--<em>E.A.P</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>These pretty initials are worked in satin stitch, the middle
+letter in point russe and point de poste.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_416" id=
+"page_416">[416]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_380"><img alt="E.A.P." src=
+"images/image380.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>381.--<em>E.P</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>These elegant letters are worked in veined and raised satin
+stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_381"><img alt="E.P." src=
+"images/image381.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_417" id=
+"page_417">[417]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_382"><img alt="E.R." src=
+"images/image382.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>382.--<em>E.R.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+30.</p>
+
+<p>The ovals are worked in overcast and point de pois, the letters
+in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch and
+overcast.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_418" id=
+"page_418">[418]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_383"><img alt="E.A." src=
+"images/image383.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>383.--<em>E.A</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>These initials are placed in a medallion; they are worked in
+satin stitch and overcast, and in appliqu&eacute; on muslin. For
+that part of the pattern in which the name is to be embroidered the
+material is taken double.</p>
+
+<p>384.--<em>Elisabeth</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>This word is embroidered in satin stitch and overcast. A few
+small eyelet-holes break the monotony of the outlines, and give
+lightness to this name.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_384"><img alt="Elisabeth." src=
+"images/image384.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_419" id=
+"page_419">[419]</a></span>
+
+<p>385.--<em>Elise</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+12 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>The open part of these letters is ornamented by one or more
+dots; the thick work is raised over chain stitches worked in No.
+12, a rather coarser cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_385"><img alt="Elise." src=
+"images/image385.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>386.--<em>Emma</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked in satin stitch; the large dots may be
+worked with the eyelet-holes in fine overcast, the smaller dots in
+satin stitch. The remaining letters in raised satin stitch and
+point de sable.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_386"><img alt="Emma." src=
+"images/image386.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_420" id=
+"page_420">[420]</a></span>
+
+<p>387.--<em>F.B.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>This elegant monogram is worked in raised satin stitch, the
+inside embroidered with lace. The leaves and tendrils are worked in
+satin stitch and point de sable.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_387"><img alt="F.B." src=
+"images/image387.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>388.--<em>F.S.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+16 and 20.</p>
+
+<p>The initials "F.S." are placed in the pages of an open book, the
+outlines of which are worked in overcast, the sides in point de
+pois. The wreath of flowers which surrounds the book is embroidered
+in satin stitch, the tendrils and veinings are in overcast. The
+initials are worked in fine satin stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_421" id=
+"page_421">[421]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_388"><img alt="F.S." src=
+"images/image388.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>389.--<em>Fanny.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This name is simply worked in satin stitch and overcast.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_389"><img alt="Fanny." src=
+"images/image389.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>390.--<em>Francis.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>The initial letter of this elegant design is worked in fine
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_422" id=
+"page_422">[422]</a></span> over-casting; the centre star in raised
+satin stitch with lace in the middle; the leaves surrounding it in
+veined satin stitch; the other letters are worked in plain satin
+stitch; and the dots of the line in point de poste.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_390"><img alt="Francis." src=
+"images/image390.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_423" id=
+"page_423">[423]</a></span>
+
+<p>391.--<em>E.C.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>The initials "E.C." are worked within a frame of overcast
+outlines and satin stitch dots. Vine-leaves and grapes worked in
+point de pois and eyelet-holes are placed as ornaments around the
+frame.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_391"><img alt="E.C." src=
+"images/image391.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>392.--<em>Gordon</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This pretty name being worked in raised satin stitch, is very
+suitable for gentlemen's handkerchiefs</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_424" id=
+"page_424">[424]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_391"><img alt="Gordon.] " src=
+"images/image391.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>393.--<em>Helene</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>We give the French version of this pretty name, it being easily
+changed to English "Helen" by omitting the final <em>e</em> in
+working. The name is worked in plain satin stitch, slightly raised
+at the thickest parts of the letters</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_393"><img alt="Helene." src=
+"images/image393.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>394.--<em>H.D.G.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This elegant design is worked in fine overcast and satin stitch,
+and point de russe</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_425" id=
+"page_425">[425]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_394"><img alt="H.D.G." src=
+"images/image394.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>395--<em>Jessie.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This design is very simple to work, the letters being so clear
+and well defined. The thick satin stitch is scalloped in parts</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_395"><img alt="Jessie." src=
+"images/image395.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>396.--<em>J.C.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+12</p>
+
+<p>The letters "J.C." are worked in raised satin and overcast
+stitch, the thickest part of each letter being worked in
+scallops</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_426" id=
+"page_426">[426]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_396"><img alt="J.C." src=
+"images/image396.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>397.--<em>Lina</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked in raised veined satin stitch; the small
+stars are worked in point russe round eyelet-holes</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_397"><img alt="Lina." src=
+"images/image397.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>398.--<em>Lizzie</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked partly in satin stitch, partly in raised
+dots and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_427" id=
+"page_427">[427]</a></span> fine overcast; the letters are in the
+Greek style, and have an excellent effect if well worked</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_398"><img alt="" src=
+"images/image398.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>399.--<em>L.G.A.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20, and Linen Thread No. 16</p>
+
+<p>Lace stitches are introduced in the medallion which incloses
+these letters, the outlines being worked in overcast and point de
+pois, the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_428" id=
+"page_428">[428]</a></span> pens and initials in raised satin
+stitch, as also the flowers. The open portion is filled in with
+Mechlin wheels, which are thus worked: A number of single threads
+cross each other in the space to be filled up; these are placed
+about a quarter of an inch from each other. All the bars in one
+direction must now be worked in fine button-hole stitch, then the
+opposite bars must be worked, and the button-hole stitch must be
+continued about six inches past the point where the two lines
+cross. The thread must be slipped loosely round the cross twice,
+running over and under alternately, so as to form a circle; then
+work in button-hole to the centre of a quarter of the circle; make
+a dot by inserting a pin in the next button-hole and working three
+stitches in the loop thus formed by the pin. These dots may be
+omitted from these wheels</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_399"><img alt="L.G.A." src=
+"images/image399.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_429" id=
+"page_429">[429]</a></span>
+
+<p>400.--<em>L.C.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>The effect of this design when well worked is excellent, for,
+although simple, the contrast between the letters and stars throws
+each into relief. Veined and raised satin stitch, with very small
+eyelet-holes, are the stitches used here</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_400"><img alt="L.C." src=
+"images/image400.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>401.--<em>Marie</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+20 and 36</p>
+
+<p>This name is embroidered in satin stitch; the veinings are well
+defined, and the tendrils should be worked with No. 30 cotton, as
+they require very fine work. Stars of overcast and eyelet-holes are
+the only ornaments</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_430" id=
+"page_430">[430]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_401"><img alt="Marie." src=
+"images/image401.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>402.--<em>Maria</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+30</p>
+
+<p>The initial letter of this name is worked in overcast and point
+de pois, the remaining letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation
+in satin stitch and overcast</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_402"><img alt="Maria." src=
+"images/image402.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>403.--<em>Maude</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked in veined satin stitch; the small stars in
+raised satin stitch, and the elegant tendrils are worked in
+overcast. This work is peculiarly adapted for the marking of a
+trousseau</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_431" id=
+"page_431">[431]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_403"><img alt="Maude." src=
+"images/image403.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>404.--<em>M.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This elegant design can be worked in coloured silk if preferred,
+or the coronet omitted at will. The letter "M" is worked in raised
+and veined satin stitch; the centre stars are worked in fine
+overcast round an eyelet-hole; the coronet is worked in very fine
+satin stitch and point de pois, and stars to correspond with those
+worked in the letter and in the wreath below, the leaves of which
+are worked in satin stitch and overcast stitch</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_432" id=
+"page_432">[432]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_404"><img alt="Handkerchief Corner." src=
+"images/image404.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_433" id=
+"page_433">[433]</a></span>
+
+<p>405.--<em>M.B.D.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>These initials are worked in satin stitch and overcast, the open
+work in fine overcast round eyelet-holes</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_405"><img alt="M.B.D." src=
+"images/image405.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_406"><img alt="M.B.G." src=
+"images/image406.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_434" id=
+"page_434">[434]</a></span>
+
+<p>406.--<em>M.B.G.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>These elegant letters are simply worked in graduated satin
+stitch and fine overcast with eyelet-holes</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_407"><img alt="M.H.E." src=
+"images/image407.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>407.--<em>M.H.E.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This elegant design is worked in graduated satin stitch, the
+middle letter is done in point crois&eacute;. This stitch is only
+worked on very thin and transparent materials. Insert the needle
+into the material as for the common back stitch, draw it out
+underneath the needle on the opposite outline of the pattern so as
+to form on the wrong side a slanting line. Insert the needle again
+as for common back stitch</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_435" id=
+"page_435">[435]</a></span>
+
+<p>408.--<em>Natalie.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+30</p>
+
+<p>The initial letter of this word contains all those following,
+and is surrounded by a wreath of roses and other flowers; these are
+worked in satin stitch, the leaves in point de pois, the letters in
+raised satin stitch. The dots which are represented on the
+groundwork of the initial are worked in back stitching; these may
+be worked in scarlet ingrain cotton if desired for morning
+handkerchiefs</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_408"><img alt="Natalie." src=
+"images/image408.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_409"><img alt="O.R." src=
+"images/image409.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>409.--<em>O.R.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This monogram is worked in satin stitch, and the oval is worked
+in eyelet-holes of graduated sizes</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_436" id=
+"page_436">[436]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_409"><img alt="O.R." src=
+"images/image409.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>410.--<em>Phoebe</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>The first letter of this word is very elaborate; it is worked in
+satin stitch, point de sable, and point de pois, the rest of the
+letters in satin stitch</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_410"><img alt="Phoebe." src=
+"images/image410.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_437" id=
+"page_437">[437]</a></span>
+
+<p>411.--<em>Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton
+Perfectionn&eacute; No. 20</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_411"><img alt=
+"Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs" src=
+"images/image411.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This monogram is worked partly in appliqu&eacute;, partly in
+satin stitch. For the middle part of the medallion sew on the
+pattern in appliqu&eacute; of cambric with button-hole stitch; the
+remaining part of the embroidery is worked in satin stitch and
+point russe</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_438" id=
+"page_438">[438]</a></span>
+
+<p>412.--<em>Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20, and Linen Thread No. 20</p>
+
+<p>This monogram is also worked in appliqu&eacute; and satin
+stitch. The circle all round the medallion is worked in
+appliqu&eacute;; in the middle work lace stitches from
+illustration. The edge of the medallion is worked round with
+button-hole stitch</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_412"><img alt=
+"Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs." src=
+"images/image412.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>413.--<em>Rosa</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>Here the name is inclosed in a medallion of overcast and back
+stitching, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_439" id=
+"page_439">[439]</a></span> the lower part having a graceful wreath
+of leaves worked in satin stitch. The letters which form the name
+are worked in raised and scalloped satin stitch and point de
+pois</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_413"><img alt="Rosa." src=
+"images/image413.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>414.--<em>Rosina</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>The stars round this graceful initial letter are worked in
+raised satin stitch round an eyelet-hole, the leaves in graduated
+satin stitch, the stems overcast, the wreaths of flowers worked in
+satin stitch and open eyelet-holes, the stems and veinings in
+overcast, and the stars on the stems to correspond with those
+worked in the letter: the rest of the letters in simple satin
+stitch rather thickly raised</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_440" id=
+"page_440">[440]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_414"><img alt="Rosina" src=
+"images/image414.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_441" id=
+"page_441">[441]</a></span>
+
+<p>415.--<em>R.S.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Black china silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Embroidery Cotton No. 16</p>
+
+<p>These letters are worked in raised satin stitch with a design of
+point russe worked in black silk</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_415"><img alt="R.S." src=
+"images/image415.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>416.--<em>S.E.B.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>These letters are worked in graduated satin stitch, the centre
+star is worked in raised satin stitch, and the four surrounding it
+as eyelet-holes</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_416"><img alt="S.E.B." src=
+"images/image416.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>417.--<em>L.E.P.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>These initials are worked in plain satin stitch, and the elegant
+stars are worked in point russe worked round an eyelet-hole</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_442" id=
+"page_442">[442]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_417"><img alt="L.E.P." src=
+"images/image417.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>418.--<em>Victoria</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>This name is most elaborately worked in satin stitch,
+overcasting and eyelet-holes. The initial letter is worked in satin
+stitch, and the stars in fine overcast round an eyelet-hole</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_418"><img alt="Victoria." src=
+"images/image418.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_443" id=
+"page_443">[443]</a></span> <a name="POINT_LACE_WORK"></a>
+
+<h2>POINT LACE WORK</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_444" id=
+"page_444">[444]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_445" id="page_445">[445]</a></span>
+
+<p>Lace is of two kinds--pillow lace, which is made upon a cushion
+or pillow, and point lace, which is made of stitches or
+<em>points</em> worked in patterns by hand, which are joined by
+various stitches forming a groundwork, also the result of the
+needle above.</p>
+
+<p>Pillow lace is entirely worked on the pillow or cushion, the
+pattern and ground being produced at the same time. Pillow lace is
+sometimes correctly called bone or bobbin lace, but it appears that
+the distinction has never been very nicely observed either by
+lace-workers or lace-traders, many sorts which are really pillow
+lace being called point, on account of some peculiarity in the
+stitch or pattern</p>
+
+<p>The requisites for producing lace in perfection are the
+dexterity and taste of the workers, and the goodness of the
+material. To produce many beautiful fabrics a mechanical dexterity
+alone suffices, but in lace-making the worker must have some
+artistic talent, even when supplied with designs, for any one can
+perceive that deviations from the design are easily made, and that
+the slightest alteration by a worker wanting in taste will spoil
+the whole piece of workmanship</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_446" id=
+"page_446">[446]</a></span>
+
+<p>The following illustrations are specimens of ancient and modern
+laces from Mrs. Bury Palliser's collection:--</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_419"><img alt="Dalecarlian Lace." src=
+"images/image419.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_447" id=
+"page_447">[447]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_420"><img alt="Old Mechlin." src=
+"images/image420.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_421"><img alt=
+"Mechlin Lace (Queen Charlotte's)." src=
+"images/image421.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_448" id=
+"page_448">[448]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 419 shows Dalecarlian lace, made by the women of Dalecarlia.
+This is a coarse kind of lace, and is sewn on caps, &amp;c., and,
+although highly starched, is never washed, for fear of destroying
+its coffee-coloured tint, which, it appears, is as much prized now
+by the Swedish rustics as it was by English ladies in the last
+century</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_422"><img alt=
+"Buckingham Point Trolly, 1851 (Black Lace)." src=
+"images/image422.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Both these specimens of Mechlin belonged to Queen Charlotte, who
+much admired this elegant lace</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_449" id=
+"page_449">[449]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 423.--The Bedford plaited lace is an improvement on the old
+Maltese.</p>
+
+<p>Honiton guipure lace is distinguished by the groundwork being of
+various stitches, in place of being sewn upon a net ground. The
+application of Honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late
+years almost superseded by this modern guipure. The sprigs, when
+made, are sewn upon a piece of blue paper and united on the pillow
+with "cutworks" or "purlings," or else joined with the needle by
+various stitches--lacet, point, r&eacute;seau, cutwork,
+button-hole, and purling.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_423"><img alt="Bedford Plaited Lace (1851)."
+src="images/image423.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Those who wish to study lace and lace-making should read Mrs.
+Bury Palliser's <em>History of Lace</em> (Sampson Low and
+Marston).</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_450" id=
+"page_450">[450]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_424"><img alt="Honiton Guipure Lace." src=
+"images/image424.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_451" id=
+"page_451">[451]</a></span> <a name="POINT_LACE_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+
+<h2>POINT LACE INSRUCTIONS.</h2>
+
+<p>The materials required for this elegant branch of needlework are
+neither numerous nor expensive. TRACING CLOTH, LEATHER, or TOILE
+CIR&Eacute;E, various BRAIDS and CORDS, LINEN THREAD and two or
+three sizes of needles, scissors and thimble. TRACING CLOTH is
+required when ladies copy point lace patterns, and is the most
+convenient mode of taking them, as the design can be worked upon
+the tracing cloth, which, though transparent, is very strong; the
+price is 1s. 6d. per yard. Fine LEATHER is the material upon which
+bought patterns are usually traced, and is decidedly more pleasant
+to work on than is any other material. In selecting <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_452" id="page_452">[452]</a></span>
+patterns ladies should choose those traced upon green leather in
+preference to scarlet or buff, as green is better for the eyesight
+than any other colour.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_425"><img alt="Point Lace Scissors." src=
+"images/image425.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>TOILE CIR&Eacute;E is only a substitute for leather, and is not
+as pleasant to work upon in warm weather.</p>
+
+<p>The needles employed are usually Messrs. Walker's needles, Nos.
+9 and 10. The scissors should be small, sharp, and pointed, as in
+illustration No. 425. An ivory thimble may be safely employed in
+this light work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_426"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image426.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_427"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image427.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_428"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image428.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_429"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image429.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_430"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image430.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_431"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image431.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The BRAIDS are of various widths and kinds. None but pure linen
+braid should be employed; those with machine-made edgings are
+eschewed by many lace-workers, the plain, loose-woven linen braid
+of various widths and qualities being alone acceptable to
+experienced hands.</p>
+
+<p>But all ladies do not care to be at the trouble of edging the
+braid, and will find Nos. 426, 428, 430, and 431 very useful. No.
+429 is a plain linen braid with a vandyked edge, which works out
+very prettily. No. 431 is an edged braid with open holes, in
+imitation of the point lace work of the fifteenth century.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_453" id=
+"page_453">[453]</a></span>
+
+<p>Point lace cords resemble the satin stitch embroidery in their
+close, regular smoothness; the price is 1s. per hank, and they are
+of various thicknesses, from the size of a coarse crochet thread up
+to that of a thick piping cord. These cords are used to ornament
+the braid, and are closely sewn on the braid, following its every
+outline, and serve as <em>beading</em> to the edging, being always
+sewn on the outer edge alone. The finer kinds of this cord are used
+in place of braid where very light work is needed, as in the point
+lace alphabet which forms the frontispiece of this work. Directions
+for laying on the cord when employed as braid are given on page
+500. When used as a finish only, and to impart the raised
+appearance of Venice and Spanish lace, it is fixed on the braid by
+plain, close sewing. The thread used should be Mecklenburg linen
+thread; that of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. we strongly recommend
+as being of pure linen, washing and wearing well; it is pleasant to
+work with, from the regularity and evenness of the make. The
+numbers run thus:--2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 30, 36,
+and 40--and will be found adapted for every kind of lace stitch.
+No. 2 is the coarsest, No. 40 the finest, size.</p>
+
+<p>In working point lace the following directions must be attended
+to: Begin at the left hand, and work from left to right, when not
+otherwise directed, as in reverse rows. Before cutting off the
+braid run a few stitches across it to prevent it widening. Joins
+should be avoided, but when a join is indispensable, stitch the
+braid together, open and turn back the ends, and stitch each
+portion down separately. When passing the thread from one part to
+another, run along the centre of the braid, allowing the stitches
+to show as little as possible. In commencing, make a few stitches,
+leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_454" id="page_454">[454]</a></span> cutting
+it off afterwards. In fastening off, make a tight button-hole
+stitch, run on three stitches, bring the needle out at the back,
+and cut off.</p>
+
+<p>Having now completed our list of materials, we can proceed to
+lay on the braid.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_442"><img alt="Mode of Placing the Braid."
+src="images/image442.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>TO PLACE THE BRAID.--No. 442 shows the design traced upon paper
+or tracing cloth, and lightly tacked to a foundation of leather or
+toile cir&eacute;e. Run on a straight line of braid for the lower
+edge, with fine stitches, working as shown from left to right. Take
+another piece of braid, or the other end of the same piece, and
+begin to lay the braid by "running" stitches in its centre, keeping
+it as smooth and even as possible. The outer edge presents no
+difficulty, but the inner edge will not lie evenly without being
+drawn in by a needle and thread, as follows:--Thread a No. 9 needle
+with No. 12 Mecklenburg thread about 20 inches long, fasten the
+thread to one point, and insert the needle in <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_455" id="page_455">[455]</a></span> and out
+of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this thread
+when drawn up will keep the braid in its place. Two or three
+fastening off stitches should be worked when each circle, half
+circle, or rounded curve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing
+or gathering thread remains in the work, and forms an important,
+though unseen, part of its structure.</p>
+
+<p>As much of the beauty of point lace depends upon the manner of
+placing the braid, ladies cannot bestow too much pains upon this
+part of the work, which is a little troublesome to beginners. Many
+fancy shops now undertake this braid-placing for ladies, who can
+have their own pattern braided and commenced or braided alone at
+trifling expense. Among these may be mentioned the following
+houses:--</p>
+
+<p>Goubaud, 30,<br>
+Henrietta-street,<br>
+Covent-garden.<br>
+Boutillier, Oxford-street, W.</p>
+
+<p>The stitches used in point lace may be divided into--</p>
+
+<p>STITCHES PROPER, or <em>points</em>.</p>
+
+<p>CONNECTING BARS.</p>
+
+<p>FINISHING EDGINGS.</p>
+
+<p>WHEELS AND ROSETTES</p>
+
+<p>The term point lace, or lace stitches (<em>points</em>), has of
+late been applied to every stitch executed with Mecklenburg thread,
+and many stitches are erroneously named by modern writers. As there
+are more than one hundred stitches employed in this beautiful art,
+much study and opportunity of seeing specimens of old point lace is
+required to give a novice any idea of the various kinds of point
+lace; but by attention to the following stitches the rudiments of
+the art may be easily acquired and very beautiful lace
+produced.</p>
+
+<p>The first stitch is POINT DE BRUXELLES, or Brussels lace stitch.
+This stitch, as may be clearly seen in illustration No. 433, is a
+simple <span class="newpage"><a name="page_456" id=
+"page_456">[456]</a></span> button-hole stitch worked loosely and
+with great regularity. The whole beauty of Brussels lace depends
+upon the evenness of the stitches. This stitch is sometimes
+employed as an edging, but is more often worked in rows backwards
+and forwards, either as a groundwork or to fill spaces, as in the
+point lace collar, No. 496.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_433"><img alt=
+"Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace)." src=
+"images/image433.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_434"><img alt=
+"Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace Worked in Rows)." src=
+"images/image434.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Brussels Point is the foundation of nearly all the lace
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p>POINT DE VENISE (Venetian or Venice Point) is worked from left
+to right, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_457" id=
+"page_457">[457]</a></span> like Brussels point. Work one loose
+button-hole, and in this stitch work four button-hole stitches
+tightly drawn up, then work another loose button-hole stitch, then
+four more tight button-hole stitches in the loose one, repeat to
+the end of the row, and fasten off.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_435"><img alt=
+"Point de Venise (Venice Point)." src=
+"images/image435.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_436"><img alt=
+"Petit Point de Venise (Little Venice Point)." src=
+"images/image436.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>PETIT POINT DE VENISE (Little Venice Point) is worked in the
+same manner as Point de Venise, but one tight stitch only is worked
+in each loose button-hole stitch. This is a most useful stitch for
+filling small spaces.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_437"><img alt=
+"Point d'Espagne (Spanish Point)." src=
+"images/image437.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 437.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Spanish Point) is worked from left to
+right as follows:--Insert the needle in the edge of the braid,
+keeping the thread turned to the right, bringing it out inside the
+loop formed by <span class="newpage"><a name="page_458" id=
+"page_458">[458]</a></span> the thread (see illustration No. 437);
+the needle must pass from the back of the loop through it. Pass the
+needle under the stitch and bring it out in front, thus twice
+twisting the thread, which produces the cord-like appearance of
+this stitch. At the end of each row fasten to the braid and return
+by sewing back, inserting the needle once in every open stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_438"><img alt=
+"Close Point d'Espagne (Close Spanish Point)." src=
+"images/image438.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 438.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Close) is worked in the same way as
+open point d'Espagne, but so closely as to only allow the needle to
+pass through in the next row. This stitch is also worked from left
+to right; fasten to the braid at the end of each row, and sew back
+to the left again.</p>
+
+<p>No. 439.--TREBLE POINT D'ESPAGNE is worked in exactly the same
+way as the open and close point d'Espagne, as may be seen in
+illustration No. 439.</p>
+
+<p>Three close stitches, one open, three close to the end of each
+row. Sew back, and in the next row begin one open, three close, one
+open, then close to the end; repeat the rows as far as necessary,
+taking care that <span class="newpage"><a name="page_459" id=
+"page_459">[459]</a></span> the close and open stitches follow in
+regular order. Diamonds, stars, and various patterns may be formed
+with this stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_439"><img alt=
+"Treble Point d'Espagne (Treble Spanish Point)." src=
+"images/image439.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 440.--POINT DE GRECQUE is begun from left to right, is
+worked backwards and forwards, and is begun by one stitch in loose
+point de Bruxelles and three of close point d'Espagne; then one
+Brussels, three point d'Espagne to the end of the row; in returning
+work back in the same manner.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_440"><img alt=
+"Point de Grecque (Grecian Point)." src=
+"images/image440.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 441. POINT DE VALENCIENNES (Valenciennes Stitch).--This
+stitch appears complicated, but is really easy to work. Begin at
+the left hand <span class="newpage"><a name="page_460" id=
+"page_460">[460]</a></span> and work six point de Bruxelles
+stitches at unequal distance, every alternate stitch being
+larger.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Upon the first large or long stitch work 9
+close button-hole stitches, then 1 short point de Bruxelles stitch
+under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so on to the end of
+row (right to left).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_441"><img alt=
+"Point de Valenciennes (Valenciennes Stitch)." src=
+"images/image441.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 5 close button-hole in the 9 of previous row,
+1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close in the Bruxelles stitch, 1
+short point de Bruxelles, 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2
+close, l short, 5 close, 1 short, and repeat. 4th row: 5 close, 1
+short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, 1 short, 5 close, 1 short, 2
+close, l short, and repeat. Continue the rows until sufficient of
+the pattern is worked.</p>
+
+<center><img alt=
+"Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, with Twisted Stitch." src=
+"images/image442.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 442. POINT D'ALEN&Ccedil;ON.--This stitch is used to fill up
+narrow spaces <span class="newpage"><a name="page_461" id=
+"page_461">[461]</a></span> where great lightness is required.
+Point d'Alen&ccedil;on is worked under and over in alternate
+stitches, like hem stitch. Nos. 442 and 443 show point
+d'Alen&ccedil;on. In No. 442 a twisted stitch is worked over the
+plain point d'Alen&ccedil;on, which is clearly shown in No. 443;
+this twist is made by passing the thread three times round each
+plain bar, and working the knot shown in illustration No. 442 over
+<em>both</em> strands of the bar.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_443"><img alt=
+"Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, with Button-hole Stitch." src=
+"images/image443.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The POINT D'ALEN&Ccedil;ON No. 443 is a festoon of close
+button-hole stitch worked over the plain bars.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_444"><img alt=
+"Point d'Angleterre (Open English Lace)." src=
+"images/image444.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 444.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE (Open English Lace).--Open English
+Lace is thus worked:--Cover the space to be filled in with lines of
+thread about <span class="newpage"><a name="page_462" id=
+"page_462">[462]</a></span> one-eighth of an inch apart, then form
+cross lines, intersecting those already made and passing
+alternately under and over them; work a rosette on every spot where
+two lines cross, by working over and under the two lines about 16
+times round, then twist the thread twice round the groundwork
+thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossing threads.
+No. 445 shows this stitch much enlarged.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_445"><img alt="Point d'Angleterre " src=
+"images/image445.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 446,--POINT TURQUE (Turkish Stitch).--This easy and
+effective stitch looks well for filling either large or small
+spaces; the thread employed should be varied in thickness according
+to the size of the space to be filled. 1st row: Work a loop,
+bringing the thread from right to left, <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_463" id="page_463">[463]</a></span> passing the needle
+through the twist and through the loop, draw up tight and repeat.
+2nd row: 1 straight thread from right to left. 3rd row: Work the
+same as first using the straight thread in place of the braid, and
+passing the needle through the loop of previous row, as shown in
+illustration No. 446.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_446"><img alt="Point Turque." src=
+"images/image446.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 447.--CORDOVA STITCH is useful for varying other stitches.
+It resembles the point de reprise of guipure d'art, and is worked
+in a similar manner over and under the side of squares formed by
+straight and parallel lines. (See No. 448.)</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_447"><img alt=
+"Point de Cordova (Cordova Stitch)." src=
+"images/image447.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 448.--POINT DE REPRISE.--This stitch is worked by darning
+over and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_464" id=
+"page_464">[464]</a></span> under two threads, forming a triangle.
+The space is filled by parallel and crossway bars, placed at equal
+distances, and on the triangles thus produced point de reprise is
+worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_448"><img alt="Point de Reprise." src=
+"images/image448.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 449.--POINT BRABAN&Ccedil;ON (Braban&ccedil;on Lace) is
+worked as follows:--Left to right. 1st row: 1 long loose, 1 short
+loose, point de Bruxelles alternately to end of row. 2nd row: 7
+tight point de Bruxelles in the 1 long loose stitch, 2 short loose
+point de Bruxelles in the short loose stitch of previous row,
+repeat. 3rd row: Same as first.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_449"><img alt=
+"Point Braban&ccedil;on (Braban&ccedil;on Lace)." src=
+"images/image449.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_450"><img alt=
+"Point de Fillet (Net Groundwork Stitch)." src=
+"images/image450.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_451"><img alt=
+"Point de Fillet and Point de Reprise." src=
+"images/image451.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_465" id=
+"page_465">[465]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 450 is used for groundwork where Brussels net is not
+imitated, and is very effective. It is begun in the corner or
+crosswise of the space to be filled. A loose point de Bruxelles
+stitch is first taken and fastened to the braid, then passed twice
+through the braid as shown in illustration, and worked in rows
+backwards and forwards as follows:--1 point de Bruxelles stitch;
+before proceeding to the next stitch pass the needle <em>under</em>
+the knot, <em>over</em> the thread, and again <em>under</em> it, as
+shown in illustration No. 450. This stitch is very quickly worked.
+No. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_466" id=
+"page_466">[466]</a></span> 451 shows point de fillet applied in
+filling a space, with a few stitches of point de reprise worked
+upon this pretty groundwork.</p>
+
+<p>No. 452.--POINT DE TULLE.--This stitch is used as a groundwork
+for very fine work, and is worked in rows backwards and forwards in
+the same stitch as open point d'Espagne, page 457. When this is
+completed the work is gone over a second time, by inserting the
+needle under one twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at
+*, and bringing it out again at the dot. This produces a close
+double twist which is very effective.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_452"><img alt="Point de Tulle." src=
+"images/image452.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 453.--MECHLIN LACE (Mechlin Wheels).--This is one of the
+prettiest stitches in point lace, but also one of the most
+difficult to work correctly. It is thus worked:--Work a number of
+diagonal bars in button-hole stitch on a single thread in one
+direction, then begin in the opposite side the same way, and work 5
+or 6 stitches past the spot where the two lines cross, pass the
+thread round the cross twice under and over the thread to form a
+circle. Work in button-hole stitch half one quarter, make a dot by
+putting a fine pin in the loop instead of drawing the thread tight,
+and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_467" id="page_467">[467]</a></span> held
+open by the pin, then take it out, and continue as before.
+Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on
+the wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal
+and parallel lines of thread.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_453"><img alt="Mechlin Lace Wheels." src=
+"images/image453.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 454.--ESCALIER LACE.--This useful lace may be varied in
+pattern to any extent by placing the open stitches in any desired
+order; it then takes the name of diamond or Antwerp lace, according
+to the design. True escalier lace is made by working nine
+button-hole stitches close together; then miss 3--that is, work
+none in the space that 3 stitches would occupy--work 9, miss 3 as
+before to the end of row, begin the 2nd row 3 stitches from the
+end, to cause the open spaces to fall in diagonal lines--a
+succession of steps or stairs (<em>escalier</em>), which gives name
+to this stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_454"><img alt=
+"Escalier Lace Worked in Diamonds." src=
+"images/image454.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_468" id=
+"page_468">[468]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 455.--SPANISH POINT LACE is adorned with highly-raised
+scrolls, flowers, &amp;c. This is effected by working over an
+underlay of coarse white thread or over fine white linen cords. The
+wheels are worked by winding soft coarse linen thread round pencils
+or smooth knitting-pins of various sizes, and working over the
+circle thus obtained a succession of close button-hole stitches.
+These wheels are sewn on to the lace when completed. The groundwork
+of Spanish lace is usually worked in what are called Raleigh Bars
+(see page <a href="#page_477">447</a>), but this lace has sometimes
+for groundwork point de Venise. An easy mode of working this
+handsome lace is to trace the design upon very fine good linen;
+raise the thick parts as above directed, and embroider the whole in
+fine thick scalloped button-hole stitch; fill the ground with
+Raleigh bars, or, as shown in illustration No. 455, in treble point
+de Venise, and cut away the linen from beneath the ground-work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_455"><img alt=
+"Spanish Point Lace (Worked &agrave; l'Anglaise)." src=
+"images/image455.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_469" id=
+"page_469">[469]</a></span>
+
+<p>WHEELS AND ROSETTES.</p>
+
+<p>Wheels or rosettes are used to fill up circles, or in
+combination to form lace. The simplest is--</p>
+
+<p>THE SORRENTO WHEEL.--Nos. 456 and 457.--This is worked by
+fastening the thread in the pattern to be filled up by means of the
+letters. Fasten it first at the place <em>a</em>, then at the place
+<em>b</em>, carrying it back to the middle of the first formed bar
+by winding it round, fasten the cotton at the place <em>c</em>,
+carrying it back again to the centre by winding it round the bar,
+and so on; then work over and under the bars thus formed as in
+English lace. See page <a href="#page_462">462</a>, and
+illustrations Nos. 456 and 457.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_456"><img alt=
+"456 and 457.--Sorrento Wheels" src=
+"images/image456.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 458.--ENGLISH WHEEL.--This is worked in the same manner as
+the Sorrento wheel, but instead of <em>winding</em> the thread over
+and under the bars, the needle is inserted under each bar and
+brought out again between the thread and the last stitch; this
+gives a kind of button-hole stitch, and gives the square, firm
+appearance possessed by this wheel.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_470" id=
+"page_470">[470]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_458"><img alt="English Wheel." src=
+"images/image458.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 459.--ROSETTE IN POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--This rosette is worked
+in a somewhat similar manner to the wheel above described, the
+difference being that after each stitch passed round and under the
+bars, the thread is passed loosely round in the reverse direction,
+as shown in illustration No. 459, before proceeding to make the
+next stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_459"><img alt=
+"Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre." src=
+"images/image459.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 460 is a rosette or star which is used to fill circles of
+braid, and forms the centre of many modern point lace patterns. It
+is worked upon <span class="newpage"><a name="page_471" id=
+"page_471">[471]</a></span> a pattern traced and pricked in small
+holes at equal distances. Two threads are employed, one coarse
+tracing thread, the other of finer thread. The coarse thread is
+laid on thus:--Pass the needle containing the fine thread, No. 12,
+through one of the pricked holes, over the tracing thread and back
+through the same hole; repeat, following the traced outline until
+the whole of the coarse thread is laid over the outline, then work
+over in tight button-hole stitch with picots or purls, as on the
+Raleigh bars (see page <a href="#page_477">477</a>). This mode of
+laying on tracing or outlining thread is also applied to fine braid
+and to point lace cord, as in the alphabet No. 400 (see page <a
+href="#page_500">500</a>).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_460"><img alt=
+"Rosette for centre of Point Lace Circles." src=
+"images/image460.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>BARS.</p>
+
+<p>The word <em>Bar</em> is applied to the various stitches used to
+connect the various parts of point lace work, and the beauty of the
+work depends greatly upon the class of bar and its suitability to
+the lace stitches used. The simplest bar is--</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_472" id=
+"page_472">[472]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 461.--THE SORRENTO BAR.--It is worked from right to left, a
+straight thread being carried across and fastened with a stitch.
+The return row consists of a simple twist under and over the
+straight thread; three of these bars are usually placed close
+together at equal distances between each group. The thread is sewn
+over the braid in passing from one spot to another.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_461"><img alt="Sorrento Bars." src=
+"images/image461.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_462"><img alt="Sorrento Bars." src=
+"images/image462.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Sorrento bars are also applied as shown in illustration No.
+462.</p>
+
+<p>No. 463.--D ALENCON BARS are worked upon point de Bruxelles
+edging, and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_473" id=
+"page_473">[473]</a></span> are only applied to the inner part of a
+pattern, never being used as groundwork bars. The thread is merely
+passed three times over and under the point de Bruxelles stitches,
+the length of these bars being regulated by the space to be filled;
+when the third bar is completed a tight point de Bruxelles stitch
+is used to fasten off the bar, the thread is passed through the
+next point de Bruxelles stitch, and a second bar begun.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_463"><img alt="D'Alen&ccedil;on Bars." src=
+"images/image463.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_464"><img alt="Venetian Bar." src=
+"images/image464.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 464.--THE VENETIAN BAR is so simple that it hardly needs
+description. It is worked over two straight threads in reverse
+button-hole stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_474" id=
+"page_474">[474]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 465 shows the Venetian bar applied as the "veining" of leaf,
+and worked upon Sorrento bars.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_465"><img alt="Venetian Bar." src=
+"images/image465.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 466.--VENETIAN BARS are worked so as to form squares,
+triangles, &amp;c., in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread.
+The arrow in the illustration points to the direction for working
+the next.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_466"><img alt="Plain Venetian Bars." src=
+"images/image466.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><a name="No_467"></a>No. 467.--BARS OF POINT
+D'ANGLETERRE.--These bars may be worked singly or to fill up a
+space, as in illustration. Work rosettes as in point d'Angleterre,
+page <a href="#page_461">461</a>; when each rosette is finished
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_475" id=
+"page_475">[475]</a></span>twist the thread up the foundation
+thread to the top, fasten with one stitch, then pass it under the
+parallel line running through the centre and over into the opposite
+braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting the threads
+as in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_467"><img alt="Bars of Point d'Angleterre."
+src="images/image467.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 468.--POINT DE VENISE BARS (EDGED).--Begin at the right hand
+and stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid,
+fastening it with one tight stitch of point de Bruxelles. Upon this
+line work a succession of tight point de Bruxelles stitches. In
+every third stitch work one point de Venise stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_468"><img alt=
+"Point de Venise Bars (Edged)." src=
+"images/image468.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_476" id=
+"page_476">[476]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 469.--We now come to the most important feature of BARS--the
+<em>dot, picot</em>, or <em>purl</em>, for by all these names it is
+known. This dot is worked in various ways upon different lace bars.
+Dotted point de Venise bars are worked as follow:--</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_469"><img alt="Dotted Point de Venise Bars."
+src="images/image469.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Stretch the thread from right to left, on this work five tight
+stitches of point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last
+stitch to hold it open and loose, pass the needle under the loose
+stitch and over the thread, as clearly shown in illustration No.
+469, and in this loop work three tight point de Bruxelles stitches.
+Then work five more stitches, and repeat to end of row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_470"><img alt=
+"Picot or Dot on Sorrento Bar." src=
+"images/image470.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 470 shows a dot or picot upon a Sorrento bar worked between
+rows of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_477" id=
+"page_477">[477]</a></span> point de Bruxelles, three twisted
+stitches being worked into the loop left by the twisted thread;
+this forms a picot resembling satin stitch in appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Nos. 471 and 472.--RALEIGH BARS are worked over a foundation or
+network of coarse thread, twisted in places so as to more easily
+fall into the desired form.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_471"><img alt="Raleigh Bars." src=
+"images/image471.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_472"><img alt=
+"Network for Working Raleigh Bars." src=
+"images/image472.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>By following the numbering from No. 1 to 21, in No. 472, a
+square place may be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement
+applied to form groundwork of any shape desired. Upon this
+groundwork tight point de Bruxelles stitches are worked, and the
+dot worked upon these in one of the following ways:--</p>
+
+<p>DOT or PICOT:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st Mode:</em> Five tight point de Bruxelles stitches, one
+loose point de Bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and over
+the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_478" id=
+"page_478">[478]</a></span> thread, as shown in point de Venise
+bars No. 469, draw up, leaving a small open loop as in tatting.
+Work five tight point de Bruxelles and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd Mode:</em> Proceed as above, but instead of continuing
+the tight stitches work two or three tight stitches in the loop
+thus formed, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd Mode:</em> Work four tight point de Bruxelles stitches,
+one loose, through which pass the needle point, wind the thread
+three or four times round the point, as shown in illustration No.
+473, press the thumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and
+thread through the twists. This is a quick mode of making the
+picot, and imitates most closely the real Spanish lace.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration No. 473 also shows how this stitch may be applied
+as a <em>regular</em> groundwork, but the beauty of old point
+groundwork bars is the variety of form.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_479" id=
+"page_479">[479]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_473"><img alt=
+"Third mode of making Picots or Dots." src=
+"images/image473.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>EDGES AND PURL FINISH.</p>
+
+<p>The correct edging of lace is a most important part of this art,
+and care should be taken to work a proper edge for each kind of
+lace. Sorrento edging should be worked upon Limoges lace. Spanish
+lace requires a full rich edge, as shown in No. 478, &amp;c. The
+simplest edge is point de Bruxelles, which is worked somewhat like
+the stitch No. 433, and is secured by a knot worked in the braid.
+Many lace-workers omit this knot.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_480" id=
+"page_480">[480]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 475.--SORRENTO EDGING is worked with one short and one long
+stitch alternately.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_474"><img alt="Point de Bruxelles Edging."
+src="images/image474.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_475"><img alt="Sorrento Edging." src=
+"images/image475.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 476.--POINT DE VENISE is worked precisely like that stitch
+(see page <a href="#page_456">456</a>), three and even four
+stitches being worked in the loop.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_476"><img alt="Point de Venise Edging." src=
+"images/image476.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 477.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE EDGING is worked in point de
+Bruxelles, the thread being again drawn through the braid before
+proceeding to the next stitch. This edging is strong and
+useful.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_477"><img alt="Point d'Angleterre Edging."
+src="images/image477.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 478.--POINT D'ESPAGNE EDGING.--This stitch is easily worked.
+Insert <span class="newpage"><a name="page_481" id=
+"page_481">[481]</a></span> the point of the needle through the
+braid and wind the thread round it 20 times, draw the needle
+through these windings and draw the picot tight, sew over the braid
+the space of 3 stitches, and repeat.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_478"><img alt="Point d'Espagne Edging." src=
+"images/image478.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 479.--ANTWERP EDGE.--This edge is only a variety of point
+d'Angleterre edging, and differs only in the mode of making the
+knot; the thread is passed over, under, and through the loop formed
+by the point de Bruxelles lace.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_479"><img alt="Antwerp Edge." src=
+"images/image479.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>NOTE.--It will be observed that the stitches here given are much
+enlarged for the sake of clearness in showing details.</p>
+
+<a name="POINT_LACE_PATTERNS"></a>
+
+<h2>POINT LACE PATTERNS.</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_482" id=
+"page_482">[482]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 480.--<em>Star in Point Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 20.</p>
+
+<p>Trace the outline upon paper or leather, lay the braid on as
+directed. Work the centre in Sorrento bars, and on these work a
+rosette in point d'Angleterre, the edge in point d'Angleterre
+edging, and the wheels in open English lace.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_480"><img alt="Star in Point Lace." src=
+"images/image480.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 481.--<em>Medallion in Point Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Linen Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>This medallion is useful for cravat ends and for a number of
+purposes, as trimming for sachets, dresses, &amp;c. Having placed
+the braid as before directed, work an English rosette in the
+centre, fill in the ground with <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_483" id="page_483">[483]</a></span> point de fillet or with
+point de Bruxelles. An edging of Spanish point completes this
+pretty medallion.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_481"><img alt="Medallion in Point Lace."
+src="images/image481.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 482.--<em>Point Lace Border</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>This border represents the completed work shown on p. 454. A
+point <span class="newpage"><a name="page_484" id=
+"page_484">[484]</a></span> d'Angleterre rosette is worked in each
+circle. The plain braid is edged by Sorrento edging. Venice bars
+are worked above the trimming, and treble point de Venise edges the
+border.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_482"><img alt="Point Lace Border." src=
+"images/image482.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 483.--<em>Point Lace Border</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 10.</p>
+
+<p>This border is both easily and quickly worked in Sorrento bars.
+The edge is worked in two rows of point de Bruxelles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_483"><img alt="Point Lace Border." src=
+"images/image483.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 484.--<em>Insertion in Limoges Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Plain linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion will be found very useful, being so quickly
+worked. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_485" id=
+"page_485">[485]</a></span> Edge the braid with Sorrento edging,
+fill up with bars and plain point d'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento
+wheels, No. 456.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_484"><img alt="Insertion in Limoges Lace.]"
+src="images/image484.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 485--<em>Point Lace Border for Handkerchief.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine lace braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 24.</p>
+
+<p>This border is suited for a handkerchief or for trimming a
+square bodice. The braid is not tacked on by stitches running
+through the centre, as is usual in point lace braids, but sewn on
+by passing a thread from underneath over the braid and out through
+the same hole, as is done by lace-workers with a thick thread; this
+forms the design. The stitches employed in this pattern are Raleigh
+bars, which connect the work; Sorrento edging, which finishes the
+whole outline; English rosettes filling the open spaces. Point lace
+cord may be used for this in place of braid.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_486" id=
+"page_486">[486]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_485"><img alt=
+"Point Lace Border for Handkerchief" src=
+"images/image485.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_487" id=
+"page_487">[487]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 486.--<em>Star-Centre for Toilette Cushion in Point
+Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread Nos. 16 and 12.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_486"><img alt=
+"Star-centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace." src=
+"images/image486.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This beautiful star will be found useful for other purposes than
+as a toilette cushion cover, and is worked as follows:--English
+rosette in centre; Sorrento wheels in the 4 ovals, worked with No.
+12 thread; point de Bruxelles ground, worked with No. 16; braid
+edged by dotted Venetian edges. The eight spaces may be filled with
+2 or 4 contrasting stitches, taking care that they contrast well,
+and are placed alternately, and worked in No. 12.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_488" id=
+"page_488">[488]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_487"><img alt="Cravat End in Point Lace"
+src="images/image487.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_489" id=
+"page_489">[489]</a></span>
+
+<p>487.--<em>Cravat End in Point Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine braid: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>This cravat is worked in Sorrento wheels, point d'Alen&ccedil;on
+bars, and Sorrento edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<center><a name="image_488"><img alt="Point Lace Edging." src=
+"images/image488.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_489"><img alt="Point Lace Edgings" src=
+"images/image489.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>488 <em>and</em> 489.--<em>Point Lace Edgings</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread Nos. 12 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>These edgings can be used as a finish to insertions and other
+trimmings or for edging couvrettes. No. 488 is worked with Sorrento
+wheels; the edge in two rows of point de Bruxelles, a straight
+thread being drawn <span class="newpage"><a name="page_490" id=
+"page_490">[490]</a></span> from the end to the beginning of each
+scallop over which the second row is worked. No. 489 is worked with
+the same materials in treble point de Venise, edged by the same,
+and finished off with a row of point de Bruxelles, the upper edge
+being worked in the same way.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>490.--<em>Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet,
+&amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread Nos. 10 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>This design may be used for a variety of purposes, and is
+extremely effective. The principal stitches required are given at
+the sides of the pattern. <em>a</em> is Valenciennes lace,
+<em>b</em> Brussels net, <em>c</em> Venetian spotted, <em>d</em>
+Sorrento edging, <em>e</em> Mechlin wheel, <em>f</em> English
+rosette, <em>g</em> Raleigh bars.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_491" id=
+"page_491">[491]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_490"><img alt=
+"Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image490.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_492" id=
+"page_492">[492]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>491.--<em>Oval for Cravats, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Point lace cord; muslin; embroidery cotton; Messrs.
+Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 14 and 18.</p>
+
+<p>This beautiful oval is worked in point lace and embroidery. This
+is begun from the centre on the muslin by overcasting the space
+filled by a wheel. The eyelet-holes are then worked, and the satin
+stitch ornament raised and prepared for working. The edge, of point
+lace cord, is then laid on, and the under portion edged in tight
+and open point de Bruxelles, the centre of the circles being worked
+in point de Bruxelles. The light groundwork is worked entirely in
+Mechlin wheels, the satin stitch being worked when these are
+completed. This pattern can be enlarged and applied to many
+purposes. The muslin is cut away when the whole work is
+finished.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_491"><img alt=
+"Oval Pattern for Ornamenting Cravats, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image491.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>492.--<em>Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 12 or 20.</p>
+
+<p>We give two sizes of thread, as this design is capable of many
+uses, and the size of the thread differs with these. The pattern is
+worked in English rosettes and bars (see <a href="#No_467">No.
+467</a>). No. 488 edging looks well with this pattern.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_493" id=
+"page_493">[493]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_492"><img alt=
+"Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice." src=
+"images/image492.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_494" id=
+"page_494">[494]</a></span>
+
+<p>493--<em>Point Lace Collar.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 22.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_493"><img alt="Point Lace Collar." src=
+"images/image493.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_495" id=
+"page_495">[495]</a></span>
+
+<p>Set on the braid or cord by passing a thread through a hole
+pricked in the pattern over the braid and out again through the
+same hole. Edge the braid with point de Bruxelles, the design being
+filled by Mechlin wheels, Sorrento wheels, point de feston, and the
+mixed stitch shown in No. 494, which is composed of
+d'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento bars, and is easily worked. Those who
+cannot work Mechlin wheels easily, can substitute close English, as
+shown in illustration No. 495. The bars are Sorrento.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_494"><img alt=
+"D'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento Bars." src=
+"images/image494.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_495"><img alt="Close English Wheels." src=
+"images/image495.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_496" id=
+"page_496">[496]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_496"><img alt="Point Lace Collar." src=
+"images/image496.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_497" id=
+"page_497">[497]</a></span>
+
+<p>496.--<em>Point Lace Collar.</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p>Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 22.</p>
+
+<p>This collar is worked in the same way as No. 493, though the
+stitches vary. The Grecian line is worked in point de reprise, the
+pattern in close English wheels, point de reprise, point de
+Bruxelles, English rosettes, and Raleigh bars.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>497.--<em>Point Lace Lappet.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 16 or 24, according to the fineness required.</p>
+
+<p>This lappet is exceedingly pretty. It is composed of the
+following stitches:--Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, point de tulle,
+English rosettes, Sorrento bars, d'Alen&ccedil;on bars, dotted
+Venise bars, and the fancy stitch point d'Anvers, which is not a
+true point lace stitch, but which is much employed in modern
+point.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_498" id=
+"page_498">[498]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_497"><img alt="Point Lace Lappet." src=
+"images/image497.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_498"><img alt="Point d'Anvers." src=
+"images/image498.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_499"><img alt="Point Grecque." src=
+"images/image499.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Point Grecque is another useful variety of fancy stitch, and so
+easily worked as to be a favourite stitch with beginners.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_499" id=
+"page_499">[499]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_500"><img alt="Letter A in Point Lace." src=
+"images/image500.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_501"><img alt="Letter A Enlarged." src=
+"images/image501.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_500" id=
+"page_500">[500]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>500 to 502.--Alphabet in Point Lace. (See end
+papers.)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Point lace cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 36.</p>
+
+<p>This alphabet is useful for marking pocket-handkerchiefs, and
+for initials for sachets, &amp;c. The cord is laid upon the pattern
+and pricked out by passing a thread up through a hole over the
+cord, and back through the same hole; then pass on to the next
+hole, and repeat. The holes should be about an eighth of an inch
+apart, or nearer when the pattern is finely convoluted. The letters
+are worked in point de Bruxelles, point d'Alen&ccedil;on, and
+dotted Sorrento bars. No. 501 shows the letter A greatly enlarged,
+to show the mode of working.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<h4>TABLE OF THREADS SUITED TO VARIOUS ARTICLES WORKED IN POINT
+LACE.</h4>
+
+<table summary=
+"TABLE OF THREADS SUITED TO VARIOUS ARTICLES WORKED IN POINT LACE."
+border="2" cellpadding="4">
+<tr>
+<td>Caps</td>
+<td>36&nbsp;&nbsp;" &nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Collars</td>
+<td>30&nbsp;&nbsp;" &nbsp;&nbsp; "&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Couvrettes</td>
+<td>2&nbsp;&nbsp; 4&nbsp;&nbsp; 6&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cravats</td>
+<td>18&nbsp;&nbsp; 30&nbsp;&nbsp; "&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>D'Oyleys</td>
+<td>8&nbsp;&nbsp; 10&nbsp;&nbsp; 12&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dress Trimmimgs</td>
+<td>22&nbsp;&nbsp; 30&nbsp;&nbsp; "&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Edgings</td>
+<td>14&nbsp;&nbsp; 30&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Handkerchiefs</td>
+<td>30&nbsp;&nbsp; 36&nbsp;&nbsp; 40&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Insertions, coarse</td>
+<td>6&nbsp;&nbsp; 8&nbsp;&nbsp; 12&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>" fine</td>
+<td>24&nbsp;&nbsp; 30&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Point lace cord runs about twelve yards to the hank.</p>
+
+<p>Point lace edged braid runs thirty-six yards on cards.</p>
+
+<p>Plain linen twelve yards in each hank.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_501" id=
+"page_501">[501]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_502" id="page_502">[502]</a></span>
+
+<h2>GUIPURE D'ART</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_503" id=
+"page_503">[503]</a></span> <a name=
+"INSTRUCTIONS_AND_PATTERNS_IN_GUIPURE_D'ART"></a>
+
+<h3>INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS IN GUIPURE D'ART</h3>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>Ancient Guipure was a lace made of thin vellum, covered with
+gold, silver, or silk thread, and the word Guipure derives its name
+from the silk when thus twisted round vellum being called by that
+name. In process of time the use of vellum was discontinued, and a
+cotton material replaced it. Guipure lace was called <em>intelle
+&agrave; cartisane</em> in England in the sixteenth century.
+Various modern laces are called Guipure, but the word is
+misapplied, since Guipure lace is that kind only where one thread
+is twisted round another thread or another substance, as in the
+ancient Guipure d'Art.</p>
+
+<p>In every design where lace can be introduced, Guipure d'Art will
+be found useful. It looks particularly well when mounted upon
+quilted silk or satin. The squares, when worked finely, look well
+as toilet-cushions, or, if worked in coarser thread, make admirable
+couvrettes, and as covers for eider-down silk quilts are very
+elegant. Guipure squares should be connected by guipure lace,
+crochet, or tatting, or they may be <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_504" id="page_504">[504]</a></span> edged with narrow guipure
+lace and joined at the corners only when placed over coloured silk
+or satin; thus arranged, a sofa-cushion appears in alternate
+squares of plain and lace-covered silk; a ruche of ribbon and fall
+of lace to correspond completes this pretty mounting.</p>
+
+<p>Not one of the least important attractions of Guipure d'Art is
+the speed with which it is worked, and the ease with which fresh
+patterns are designed by skilful workers.</p>
+
+<p>GUIPURE D'ART is an imitation of the celebrated ancient Guipure
+Lace, and is worked in raised and intersected patterns upon a
+square network of linen thread, Mecklenburg thread of various sizes
+being used for this purpose. The needles employed are blunt, and
+have large eyes, to admit the linen thread.</p>
+
+<p>Materials required: One frame of wire covered with silk ribbon;
+one square of Mecklenburg thread net (<em>fillet</em>), either
+coarse or fine; Mecklenburg thread; netting-needles and meshes of
+various sizes.</p>
+
+<p>The netted foundation, or "<em>fillet</em>," upon which this
+elegant work is embroidered, can be made by ladies very easily, and
+at much less cost than when bought ready made.</p>
+
+<p>The square is worked by netting with coarse No. 2 or fine No.10
+thread over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch or more, in
+rows backwards and forwards. Begin with 2 stitches, and increase 1
+at the end of every row till you have one more stitch than is
+required for the number of holes. Thus, if a square of 26 holes is
+required, continue to increase up to 27 stitches, then decrease 1
+at the end of every row till 2 stitches only remain. The last 2
+stitches are knotted together without forming a fresh stitch.</p>
+
+<p>The completed foundation is laced upon the frame, taking the
+lacing cotton through the double edge formed by the increased and
+decreased <span class="newpage"><a name="page_505" id=
+"page_505">[505]</a></span> stitches. If the four corners of the
+netting are tied at each corner of the frame before beginning the
+lacing, that operation is greatly facilitated. The netting should
+be laced as tightly as possible, it being far easier to darn on
+than when loose.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_503"><img alt="Frame for Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image503.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Ladies who wish to excel in working guipure d'art should
+practise each of the stitches until they attain perfect regularity
+and quickness in their execution. Two or three hours devoted to
+this in the first instance will not be time wasted, as the most
+elaborate pattern will be worked with ease as soon as the stitches
+are mastered.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_506" id=
+"page_506">[506]</a></span>
+
+<p>The Mecklenburg thread of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of
+Derby, will be found a better colour than any other, as it closely
+resembles the shade of the ancient guipure lace.</p>
+
+<p>It is sold only in spools of 200 yards each, and the numbers run
+as follow; No. 2, 4, 6, 8, lo, 12, 16, 20; No. 2 being the
+coarsest, and No. 20 the finest.</p>
+
+<p>The principal stitches used in guipure d'art are POINT D'ESPRIT,
+POINT DE TOILE, POINT DE FESTON, POINT DE REPRISE, POINT DE
+BRUXELLES, and WHEELS and STARS. POINT D'ESPRIT is worked with
+finer cotton than the foundation, say No. 10 on a foundation of No.
+6. It consists of a succession of small loops, as will be seen
+clearly in the illustration. The learner should begin from the mark
+* No. 503, and working a row of loops the length required, turn the
+frame and work loops on the opposite half of each square
+intersecting the first worked loops in the centre of each
+intervening bar of netting. A careful examination of Nos. 503 and
+506 will explain this more clearly than is possible in words.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_504"><img alt="Point d'Esprit." src=
+"images/image504.jpg"></a></center>
+
+&lt;
+
+
+<p>POINT DE TOILE, or LINEN STITCH, is plain darning under and over
+each thread; this forms a fine close groundwork, and is much used
+in guipure <span class="newpage"><a name="page_507" id=
+"page_507">[507]</a></span> d'art. Care should be taken to keep the
+same number of stitches in each square, both along and across; the
+number of threads shown in illustration No. 504 is 4 only, but 6
+and even 8 are used in many netted foundations in fine
+patterns.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_505"><img alt="Point de Toile." src=
+"images/image505.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>POINT DE FESTON is worked by a series of overcast stitches, as
+seen by illustration 506, which clearly shows the manner of
+working. The frame is turned at each stitch, the stitches are taken
+across the squares, and increase in length at the top of the
+square.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_506"><img alt="Point de Feston." src=
+"images/image506.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_508" id=
+"page_508">[508]</a></span>
+
+<p>POINT DE REPRISE, or DARNING, is worked by stretching 2 or 3
+threads over 1, or 2, or more squares. The thread is darned over
+and under, and the needle used to arrange the last stitch while
+passing through to form the next. This stitch is very easily
+acquired. It is always worked with coarser thread than the
+foundation; No. 2 thread should be employed for a coarse
+groundwork. No. 510 shows this stitch used to form stars, figures,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_507"><img alt="Point de Reprise." src=
+"images/image507.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_508"><img alt="Leaf." src=
+"images/image508.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_509" id=
+"page_509">[509]</a></span>
+
+<p>POINT DE BRUXELLES, as shown on pages 506 and 507, is a kind of
+loose button-hole stitch, and is used for forming various patterns
+and for filling up squares. It also forms "leaves," when the number
+of stitches is decreased each row until the leaf finishes off in a
+point. Nos. 509 and 510 clearly show this stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_509"><img alt="Point de Bruxelles." src=
+"images/image509.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_510"><img alt="Point de Bruxelles." src=
+"images/image510.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_510" id=
+"page_510">[510]</a></span>
+
+<p>WHEELS are easy to work, and are begun in the centre. Four
+threads are taken across, as shown in design No. 511; the thread is
+twisted in bringing it back to the centre, and the wheel formed by
+passing the thread under and over the netting and the crossing
+threads. It is fastened off on the back of the several wheels.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_511"><img alt="Wheel (commenced)." src=
+"images/image511.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Wheel No. 513 is a square wheel, and is worked in the same
+manner, with the addition of point d'esprit loops, through which,
+and under and over the cross-twisted threads, 4 or 5 rows of thread
+are passed.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_511" id=
+"page_511">[511]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_512"><img alt="Wheel" src=
+"images/image512.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_513"><img alt="Square Wheel." src=
+"images/image513.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_514"><img alt=
+"Wheel larger than its real size." src=
+"images/image514.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>STARS are of various form, as shown in Nos. 516, 517, 518, 519,
+and 520.</p>
+
+<p>No. 516 is worked in point de feston (see page 507) round a
+single square hole, which is filled in by a small wheel or
+rosette.</p>
+
+<p>No. 517 is worked in point de feston and point de Bruxelles,
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_512" id=
+"page_512">[512]</a></span> alternately round a centre simply
+crossed by point d'esprit threads.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_516"><img alt="Star." src=
+"images/image516.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 518 is more elaborate, and is worked thus:--Begin at the
+place marked <em>a</em>; twist the linen thread 3 times round the
+nearest thread, draw it on to the knot <em>b</em>; repeat this 3
+times, following the order of the letters; twist the linen thread
+also between the threads, as can be <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_513" id="page_513">[513]</a></span> seen from the
+illustration, and fasten it underneath the knot <em>a</em>; for the
+wheel fasten on the cotton afresh and work the remaining pattern in
+darning stitch (point de reprise).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_517"><img alt="Star." src=
+"images/image517.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_518"><img alt="Star" src=
+"images/image518.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 520 consists of a double cross formed by twisted loops of
+linen thread. Copy these loops exactly from illustration 520.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_514" id=
+"page_514">[514]</a></span>
+
+<p>One part of the straight cross lies underneath, then comes the
+slanting cross, and lastly, the other part of the straight
+cross.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_519"><img alt="Detail of Star." src=
+"images/image519.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_520"><img alt="Star." src=
+"images/image520.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>In the centre the loops of linen thread are fastened with two
+rounds of stitches. (See illustration 520).</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_515" id=
+"page_515">[515]</a></span>
+
+<p>OVERCAST STITCH is worked like embroidery overcast, and forms
+the stems of the flowers and leaves of guipure d'art; it is worked
+over one or two coarse threads. It is employed in No. 530, and
+forms the triangles in the centre of the middle squares.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_521"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image521.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>521.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Guipure frame netting of 6 holes wide; Mecklenburg
+thread No. 8 or 10; needle No. 7.</p>
+
+<p>For the netted foundation, which is six holes wide, begin at one
+corner with 2 stitches, work 5 rows, at the end of each of which
+increase 1 stitch, continue to work the strip with the same number
+of stitches, alternately decreasing 1 at the end of one row and
+increasing 1 at the end of the next. For decreasing net 2 stitches
+together, for increasing net 2 stitches in the same hole. When the
+strip is sufficiently long, complete it by decreasing in the same
+proportion as the increasing at the beginning. As the pattern is so
+clearly shown in the illustration, it will be very easy to work
+from it. It is worked in point de feston <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_516" id="page_516">[516]</a></span> and star wheels; the
+border is in point d'esprit. The insertion is finished on either
+side with a row of button-hole stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>522.--<em>Lace Border in Guipure D'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8 or 10.</p>
+
+<p>This border may be used for various purposes; it makes a pretty
+edging for toilet cushions if worked in fine thread, and looks
+equally well for trimming couvrettes, &amp;c., in No. 2 thread. The
+netting is nine holes wide, the stitches employed are point
+d'esprit and point de feston, the edge is in buttonhole stitch, the
+netted ground is cut away outside the scallops.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_522"><img alt=
+"Lace Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image522.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_517" id=
+"page_517">[517]</a></span>
+
+<p>523.--<em>Square for D'Oyley</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Frame; 1 square of netting; Mecklenburg reel thread
+Nos. 8 and 10; needle No. 6.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_523"><img alt=
+"Pattern of Square for D'Oyley." src=
+"images/image523.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a
+d'oyley, or pincushion. The three other corners of the square are
+worked exactly like the one seen in illustration; the rosette in
+the centre is shown in full size. The square is worked in point
+d'esprit, linen stitch, and <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_518" id="page_518">[518]</a></span> point de reprise. Each of
+the leaves of the foliage is worked in one hole of the netting;
+they are worked by throwing the cotton three times across the hole,
+and working darning stitch on them. The stem is worked in overcast
+on the thread of the netting. The daisy in the centre is worked
+like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of the
+netting.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_524"><img alt=
+"Corner Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image524.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>524 <em>and</em> 525.--<em>Corner Borders in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+2 for couvrettes, No. 8 for pillow-cases, No. 16 for lace
+edgings.</p>
+
+<p>These corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small
+couvrettes; the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch,
+darning stitch, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_519" id=
+"page_519">[519]</a></span> point de Bruxelles, and wheels. The
+edge is formed by buttonhole stitches. The netting is cut away
+after these are worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_525"><img alt=
+"Corner Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image525.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>526.--<em>Strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8.</p>
+
+<p>This strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in
+zigzag lines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit
+and point de toile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the
+triangle left by the zigzag line. This pattern is so easy to work
+that it hardly needs <span class="newpage"><a name="page_520" id=
+"page_520">[520]</a></span> description, the only part requiring
+care being the squares of point de feston; these are begun in the
+centre, and the thread should be drawn rather tightly so as to form
+a good square.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_526"><img alt=
+"Pattern for a strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image526.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_521" id=
+"page_521">[521]</a></span>
+
+<p>527.--<em>Small Square</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Frame; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and No. 16 for the
+pattern.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_527"><img alt="Small Square." src=
+"images/image527.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of
+each square, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in
+breadth. It is embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit,
+and wheels. The outer edge is worked round in button-hole stitch.
+Larger squares are worked in the same manner, only a few rows
+larger in length and breadth. The squares are fastened together
+with a few stitches, and sewn on the pincushion or any article they
+are intended to ornament.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>528.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8, or 16 for very fine work.</p>
+
+<p>This strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all
+kinds of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_522" id=
+"page_522">[522]</a></span> lingeries. The size of the material
+depends, of course, on the use to be made of the insertion. The
+guipure pattern is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit, the
+raised leaves in darning stitch. The edges are worked round with
+buttonhole stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_528"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image528.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>529.--<em>Rosette in Guipure d'Art.</em></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_529"><img alt="Rosette in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image529.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+6.</p>
+
+<p>This rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. A
+larger wheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of
+overcast.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_523" id=
+"page_523">[523]</a></span>
+
+<p>530.--<em>Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: One guipure frame; Mecklenburg thread Nos. 6 and 12;
+needle No. 7.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_530"><img alt=
+"Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image530.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in
+guipure d'art. The outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a
+border in linen stitch. There are large stars in the corners; these
+stars are worked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the
+netting at the points of each brand; in the centre of the star
+there is a wheel (see No. 515) edged with buttonhole stitch. The
+pattern for the centre, one quarter of which only is seen in the
+illustration, consists of 4 branches forming small triangles in
+point de Bruxelles, 4 open-worked <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_524" id="page_524">[524]</a></span> stars or wheels worked
+over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branched centre of point de
+feston with a wheel in the middle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>531 <em>and</em> 532.--<em>Square Patterns in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s linen thread No. 2 for
+the netting, and their Mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches
+No. 8.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_531"><img alt=
+"Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image531.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 531. The outer border of this pretty square is worked in
+point d'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a
+round of small wheels or rosettes.</p>
+
+<p>For these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first
+square stitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three
+other knots, so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the
+centre point of the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_525" id=
+"page_525">[525]</a></span> cross, passing alternately under and
+over its branches, then twist the cotton over the threads of the
+foundation until the next square is reached, and begin another
+wheel.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_532"><img alt=
+"Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image532.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The centre of No. 531 is composed of wheels and point de
+reprise; the pattern round the centre is worked in point de feston,
+differing a little from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the
+illustration clearly shows the difference.</p>
+
+<p>No. 532 has similar borders to No. 531; the centre is occupied
+by a star (see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels
+surround this; the square stitches between are filled with small
+wheels and with groups of long loops, fastened together in sheaves.
+Point d'esprit and point de toile, worked one way only, complete
+this square.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_526" id=
+"page_526">[526]</a></span>
+
+<p>533 <em>to</em> 536.--<em>Four Patterns in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+2 or 16, according to the size of the work.</p>
+
+<p>These four patterns will be found useful for filling up small
+squares, or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_533"><img alt="Pattern in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image533.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half
+fill each square of the netting. This pattern must be worked with
+great regularity.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_534"><img alt="Pattern in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image534.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_527" id=
+"page_527">[527]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit.</p>
+
+<p>No. 535 is a thread twisted and taken <em>across</em> each
+square, and resembles lace stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_535"><img alt="Pattern in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image535.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with
+point d'esprit. This grounding is very effective.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_536"><img alt="Pattern in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image536.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>537.--<em>Lace Border for Veils, &amp;c</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+16; strip of square netting of the required length; oblong
+frame.</p>
+
+<p>This simple border is easily and quickly worked. The edge is
+overcast, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_528" id=
+"page_528">[528]</a></span> the ground worked in point d'esprit,
+the border in point de toile, and the pattern in point de reprise.
+When completed the netting is cut away from the overcast edge.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_537"><img alt=
+"Lace Border for Veils, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image537.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>538 <em>and</em> 538<em>a</em>.--<em>Squares in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10 or 16, according to the
+fineness required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_538"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image538.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or
+handkerchiefs. They are worked on netting with very fine cotton in
+the usual manner, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_529" id=
+"page_529">[529]</a></span> beginning on two stitches in one corner
+The different stitches of the guipure darning can be distinctly
+seen in illustration, and are point de feston, point de reprise,
+point de toile, and point d'esprit on No. 538, and the same
+stitches surround a wheel in No. 538<em>a</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_538a"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image538a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_539"><img alt="Guipure d'Art Insertion."
+src="images/image539.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>539.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread
+Nos. 8 to 16; strip of netting length, required.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in
+point de feston. The ground in point d'esprit.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_530" id=
+"page_530">[530]</a></span>
+
+<p>540 <em>and</em> 541.--<em>Square in Guipure Point de Venise
+(Reticella)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Coarse or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 4 or 12.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_540"><img alt="Square in Point de Venise."
+src="images/image540.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_541"><img alt=
+"Quarter Square in Reticella Work (Enlarged)." src=
+"images/image541.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This square is worked in the so-called point de Venise, together
+with other squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions,
+&amp;c. It is <span class="newpage"><a name="page_531" id=
+"page_531">[531]</a></span> worked on coarse or fine linen,
+according to the use you wish to make of it. Prepare a square piece
+of linen, by drawing out long and cross threads, so as to form
+perfect squares. In the pattern No. 540, which is worked on fine
+linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long and cross way;
+8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threads have
+been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form the
+framework. Then fasten the piece of linen on card-board, and work
+close <span class="newpage"><a name="page_532" id=
+"page_532">[532]</a></span> button-hole stitch round the inner edge
+Then work with darning stitch over the long and cross threads of
+the ground.</p>
+
+<p>From No. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times
+larger than full size, it is easy to see how the framework is
+darned. When the latter is entirely darned, work the patterns in
+the different squares in button-hole stitch. The circular and
+serpentine patterns consist of 3 rows of button-hole stitch; the
+patterns which imitate whole rosettes and half rosettes are worked
+in rows of button-hole stitch. For each row the thread must be
+first drawn from one place to the other, as can be seen in
+illustration, and fastened on the framework. The knots in the last
+button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch when
+completed, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through the
+first completed knot. It is easy, however, to work all the patterns
+from No. 541. The dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the
+direction of the patterns which are wanting there. The square is
+edged all round with an open-work hem, which can also be worked
+from No. 541.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>542 <em>and</em> 543.--<em>Corner Patterns in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+14.</p>
+
+<p>These patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs,
+&amp;c. The netted ground is to be worked from the corner. Cast on
+2 stitches, and work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1
+stitch at the end of every row. The pattern is worked in point
+d'esprit, linen, and darning stitch, as can be seen in
+illustration.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_533" id=
+"page_533">[533]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_542"><img alt="Corner Borders." src=
+"images/image542.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>544.--<em>Flower for Ornamenting Cravats and Caps in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Black or coloured silks, or Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_544"><img alt="Flower in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image544.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse
+silk in <span class="newpage"><a name="page_534" id=
+"page_534">[534]</a></span> guipure d'art on netting. This pattern
+can also be worked with white thread or black silk in point de
+reprise.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>545.--<em>Work Basket with Covering of Darned Netting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting;
+Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_545"><img alt=
+"Work Basket Covered with Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image545.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin,
+fastened on cardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. The stand of
+varnished bamboo is twelve inches long, seven and a half inches
+wide, and five and a half inches high. The case inside is made of
+cardboard, covered on both sides with blue satin, and the guipure
+d'art on the outside only. The stitches used are point de toile,
+point de reprise, and point d'esprit.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_535" id=
+"page_535">[535]</a></span>
+
+<p>546 <em>and</em> 547.--<em>Squares in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12 or 20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness
+required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_546"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image546.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting
+lingerie, cravats, collars, &amp;c. Repeated at regular intervals
+on a larger centre, they are likewise suitable for couvrettes,
+cushions, pillow-cases, &amp;c.; they are worked in darning and
+linen stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_547"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image547.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>548.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required
+length; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or
+12.</p>
+
+<p>This simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked
+at each side of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of buttonhole
+stitches being worked between the rows.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_536" id=
+"page_536">[536]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_0549"><img alt="Guipure d'Art Insertion."
+src="images/image549.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>550 <em>and</em> 551.--<em>Squares for Antimacassar</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Square of netting of 12 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 8.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_550"><img alt="Square for Antimacassar."
+src="images/image550.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 550 is very quickly worked. The border and groundwork in
+point d'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in
+point de <span class="newpage"><a name="page_537" id=
+"page_537">[537]</a></span> toile. Wheels fill in the four holes in
+the centre of the squares.</p>
+
+<p>No. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in
+point de feston, the other stitches are point de toile. Wheels in
+part of star pattern No. 518.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_551"><img alt="Square for Antimacassar."
+src="images/image551.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>552 <em>and</em> 553.--<em>Borders in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8 or 16.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_538" id=
+"page_538">[538]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_552"><img alt="Border in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image552.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and,
+worked with fine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. The netted
+ground of the borders is to be worked in the size seen in
+illustration; for the border No. 553 darn the ground in button-hole
+stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit, and point de feston; the
+pattern No. 552 is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit; small
+wheels are also to be worked. Both borders are to <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_539" id="page_539">[539]</a></span> be
+worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut away
+along the outside.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_553"><img alt="Border in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image553.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>554 <em>and</em> 555.--<em>Squares in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+20; netted squares of 7 and 8 holes.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_554"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image554.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats,
+lappets for caps and lingeries. They are worked in darning and
+linen stitch. The centre part of the square, No. 554, is a small
+wheel covered with raised stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_555"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image555.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>556.--<em>Square in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12.</p>
+
+<p>The centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well
+as the border; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in
+the centre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_556"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image556.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_541" id=
+"page_541">[541]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>557.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Strip of netting of 4 holes in width; Messrs. Walter
+Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit,
+square wheels are worked in the centre of the strip.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_557"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image557.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>558 <em>to</em> 563.--<em>Different Strips of Insertion,
+Rosettes and Lace, in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread Nos. 16 and 20.</p>
+
+<p>These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very
+suitable for <span class="newpage"><a name="page_542" id=
+"page_542">[542]</a></span> ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &amp;c.
+The ground of insertion, Nos. 558 and 560, is worked with fine
+white cotton over a fine steel knitting-needle, in slanting
+netting, and darned with thread in the manner seen in
+illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 rounds wide, and
+worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned patterns
+can be worked from illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_558"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image558.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_559"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image559.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_560"><img alt="Rosette in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image560.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine
+knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st
+round <span class="newpage"><a name="page_543" id=
+"page_543">[543]</a></span> work 2 stitches in every stitch. In the
+2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitches in every increased stitch of the
+preceding round, and in every other stitch 1 stitch. In the 6th
+round take a steel knitting-needle double the size of the first,
+and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the preceding round.
+Then work the 7th round over the fine needle as follows:--</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_561"><img alt="Border in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image561.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first,
+and work 1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the
+first, and then 1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round
+work always 2 stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed
+stitches, 1 stitch in all the other stitches. Lastly, darn the
+rosette, from illustration, with fine glazed cotton.</p>
+
+<p>For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563,
+cast on 6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then
+in the 1st round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8
+rounds 2 stitches in every increased stitch, in all the other
+stitches 1 stitch. The last <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_544" id="page_544">[544]</a></span> (10th) round is worked
+without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, from illustrations,
+with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point d'esprit.
+The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole
+stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These
+two rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_562"><img alt="Rosette in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image562.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_563"><img alt="Rosette in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image563.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of
+straight netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side,
+and worked round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration.
+This ground is <span class="newpage"><a name="page_545" id=
+"page_545">[545]</a></span> darned, from No. 561, in darning
+stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch, and ornamented with bars and
+wheels (See illustration).</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_564"><img alt=
+"Corner Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image564.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>564 <em>and</em> 565.--<em>Corner Borders in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+20 for handkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes.</p>
+
+<p>These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes,
+&amp;c., or as strips of insertion for cushions or pillowcases.
+They are worked with <span class="newpage"><a name="page_546" id=
+"page_546">[546]</a></span> more or less fine cotton, according to
+the use they are meant for. They are edged round with button-hole
+stitch on the outside, and finished off with a row of crochet purl.
+Work 1 double in every button-hole stitch; after every other stitch
+draw out the loop on the needle about one-tenth of an inch; take
+out the needle and leave the loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last
+double stitch, and cast it off with the next double stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_565"><img alt=
+"Corner Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image565.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>566.--<em>Jewel Case, forming Pincushion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin
+and silk cord; guipure netting.</p>
+
+<p>This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with
+satin, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_547" id=
+"page_547">[547]</a></span> and slightly quilted; it is also
+covered on the top with satin, and ornamented all round with a
+satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in the manner seen
+in illustration. The top of the box is stuffed so as to form a
+pincushion. It is then covered with guipure d'art No. 567. Ornament
+all round with silk cords, and at the corners with bows of satin
+ribbon.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_566"><img alt="Jewel Case, with Pincushion."
+src="images/image566.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>567.--<em>Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point de
+reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced
+occasionally.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_548" id=
+"page_548">[548]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_567"><img alt=
+"Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case (No. 566)." src=
+"images/image567.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_549" id=
+"page_549">[549]</a></span>
+
+<p>568.--<em>Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (See page <a href=
+"#page_580">580</a>.)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+20, and cotton No. 80.</p>
+
+<p>For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our
+illustration two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight
+strip of netting for the foundation, which must count as many holes
+in width as are required for the width of the covering. The size of
+the holes depends on the size of the knitting-needle or mesh which
+you use. The pattern is worked with cotton No. 80, over a steel
+knitting-needle which measures two-fifths of an inch round. Begin
+the strip in one corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and work in rows
+backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every
+row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holes
+in width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same
+number of stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the
+end of 1 row, and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip
+is 250 stitches long. The strip is finished off in a straight line
+at the bottom by working a certain number of rows in which the last
+stitch remains untouched. At the beginning of the row do not work 1
+stitch ever the mesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the
+preceding row, so that the cotton is drawn on tight. When the strip
+is completed, trace from No. 568 the outlines for the pattern of
+each of the eight parts of the parasol with double thread, in such
+a manner that two parts lie next to each other, but reversed, that
+is, the point of one part must lie next to the wide part of the
+next part. Then work in each part the pattern seen in illustration,
+and afterwards each part round with button-hole stitch, working
+over the double outline. Cut out the different parts, and sew them
+together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_550" id=
+"page_550">[550]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_569"><img alt=
+"Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image569.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>569.--<em>Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+18; green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk
+cord.</p>
+
+<p>The size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. The
+netting must <span class="newpage"><a name="page_551" id=
+"page_551">[551]</a></span> be fastened in a frame, and darned with
+fine thread; the flowers are worked in darning stitch, and the
+ground in point d'esprit. The cushion is made of green satin,
+perfumed with poudre d'iris. When the netting has been fastened on,
+it is edged all round with a green satin ruche, and green silk
+cord, forming loops at every corner.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_570"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image570.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>570.--<em>Square in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Netted square of 26 stitches; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline
+of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_552" id=
+"page_552">[552]</a></span> point de reprise. This outline may be
+worked in close button-hole stitch. Point de toile is used for the
+groundwork, upon which point de reprise is worked.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>571 <em>and</em> 572.--<em>Work Case in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Blue satin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 16; blue silk cord.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_571"><img alt=
+"Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Back)." src=
+"images/image571.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five
+inches and four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with
+a loop and button. The back, front, side, and the flap are worked
+all in one piece. The netting is worked with white thread No. 12,
+over a mesh measuring at least two-fifths of an inch round. For the
+flap the netting must be slanted off on both sides; this is done
+either by decreasings, or by cutting off the corners of the work.
+The latter is then darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and
+point d'esprit, from No. 572, which shows the front of the case,
+and from No. 571, which shows the back. The <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_553" id="page_553">[553]</a></span> netting
+is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sides with
+button-hole stitches on the right side. The flap is edged with
+button-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop to
+correspond. The case is edged all round with blue silk cord.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_572"><img alt=
+"Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Front)." src=
+"images/image572.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>573.--<em>Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 12; carved oak stand; glac&eacute; silk; cords;
+tassels.</p>
+
+<p>Banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from the
+mantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration No. 573. The banner
+is 23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glac&eacute;
+silk, and edged with a lace border of guipure d'art. The design for
+the banner is given in page 554. Work the netting for the
+groundwork over a larger or smaller mesh, according to the size you
+wish it to be. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, point de
+reprise, and point de toile. When the <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_554" id="page_554">[554]</a></span> pattern is
+completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with a gathered
+border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords and
+tassels. The banner may be finished off in close button-hole
+stitch, instead of adding the lace border.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_573"><img alt=
+"Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image573.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_555" id=
+"page_555">[555]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_575"><img alt="Border in Guipure d'Art" src=
+"images/image575.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>575.--<em>Border in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8.</p>
+
+<p>This border is suited for couvrettes. It is worked in point
+d'esprit, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_556" id=
+"page_556">[556]</a></span> point de reprise, or plain darning
+stitch, edged by a row of button-hole, and finished with a crochet
+edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_576"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image576.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>576.--<em>Square in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12; netted square of 20 holes.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de
+feston, point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the
+centre as that shown on page 514, omitting the alternate points;
+border of point d'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars.
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_557" id=
+"page_557">[557]</a></span> Table of the right size of Mecklenburg
+thread to use in working:--</p>
+
+<table summary=
+"Table of the right size of Mecklenburg thread to use in working"
+border="2" cellpadding="4">
+<tr>
+<th>&nbsp;</th>
+<th>NO.</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Antimacassars</td>
+<td>2</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Borders</td>
+<td>4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Handkerchiefs</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Insertions</td>
+<td>8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lace edgings and insertions</td>
+<td>16</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lamp shades</td>
+<td>16</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Parasol covers</td>
+<td>18</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sachets</td>
+<td>12</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sofa cushions</td>
+<td>8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Toilet cushions</td>
+<td>10</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Toilet mats</td>
+<td>10</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>FRAMES</p>
+
+<p>May be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares.</p>
+
+<p>Oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace
+edgings.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_558" id=
+"page_558">[558]</a></span>
+
+<h2>BERLIN WORK</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_559" id=
+"page_559">[559]</a></span> <a name="BERLIN_WORK_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+<h3>BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<p>Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon
+canvas with wool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are
+common cross stitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or
+velvet stitch, tent stitch, and others. The materials and needle
+must always be carefully chosen of a corresponding size. For common
+cross stitch and raised stitch Penelope canvas must be used; for
+small articles, such as slippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin
+wool is preferable; for larger ones fleecy wool or double Berlin
+wool (the latter, however, is much more expensive). For Gobelin
+stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas (not Penelope) is required.
+Purse silk is often used for the latter; it is more brilliant than
+floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generally used for other
+stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas better than
+purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle, which is a
+much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Before
+beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be
+hemmed or <span class="newpage"><a name="page_560" id=
+"page_560">[560]</a></span> sewn over with wool. Care must be taken
+not to crumple the canvas in the course of the work. It is best to
+roll one end of the canvas upon a round piece of deal while the
+other end is kept down upon the table with a lead cushion. Handsome
+artistic patterns should always be worked in a frame. When you
+undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre, and complete
+one half before you commence the other. Always work the stitches in
+the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very essential
+to the beauty and regularity of the pattern.</p>
+
+<p>Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those
+colours that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When
+the pattern is finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be
+drawn too tightly, otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If
+the wool is too coarse for the canvas, one long stitch is to be
+made from left to right as far as the particular colour is to be
+worked, and over this long stitch, cross back in the usual way.</p>
+
+<p>The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross
+stitch; illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same.</p>
+
+<p>We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in
+writing and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which
+are used in Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great
+in number nor too simple or too elaborate in execution for those
+who aspire to become Berlin workers.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_561" id=
+"page_561">[561]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_577"><img alt="Common Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image577.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 577.--The common cross stitch is worked in rows
+backwards and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width
+(square of the canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked
+from left to right; the 2nd row, which completes the stitches, from
+right to left. Illustration 577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches
+and 1 row in course of working.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_578"><img alt="Long Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image578.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like
+the preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in
+width.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_562" id=
+"page_562">[562]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_579"><img alt="Long Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image579.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like
+the preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2
+stitches, and in the next row the stitches are worked between those
+in the preceding row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards
+and forwards; each stitch is completed before beginning the
+next.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_580"><img alt="Slanting Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image580.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 580.--The long slanting cross stitch is worked like
+No. 578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting,
+the 2nd is straight. The places for inserting the needle and for
+drawing it out are marked on the illustration with a cross and
+dot.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_563" id=
+"page_563">[563]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_581"><img alt="Damask Stitch." src=
+"images/image581.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 581.--The damask stitch is worked in single rows
+from left to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The
+stitches of one row come between those of the next. The cross and
+dot shown in illustration are where to insert and draw out the
+needle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_582"><img alt="Rep Stitch." src=
+"images/image582.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the
+preceding. The first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads
+in height and 2 in width, the second half, like the common cross
+stitch, from right to left over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas
+threads; each stitch is completed at once. The illustration shows
+the last stitch being worked; the first half of the stitch is
+completed; the dot shows where the needle must be inserted for the
+second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed on
+illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_564" id=
+"page_564">[564]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_583"><img alt="Leviathan Stitch." src=
+"images/image583.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 583.--The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting
+and 1 straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in
+width. Each stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half
+of the stitch completed and the wool as it must be placed for
+working the first half of the straight cross stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_584"><img alt="Leviathan Stitch." src=
+"images/image584.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 584.--The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like
+the preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads
+in the different rows, as may be seen from illustration.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_565" id=
+"page_565">[565]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_585"><img alt="Double Leviathan Stitch."
+src="images/image585.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 585.--The double leviathan stitch is a variety of
+the preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in
+width. Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long
+cross stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width.
+Illustration 585 shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_586"><img alt="Tent Stitch." src=
+"images/image586.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 586.--Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1
+stitch in height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to
+right.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_566" id=
+"page_566">[566]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_587"><img alt="Slanting Gobelin Stitch."
+src="images/image587.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 587.--The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on
+undivided canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height
+and 2 in width, divided from the next stitch only by an interval of
+1 thread.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_588"><img alt="Straight Gobelin Stitch."
+src="images/image588.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 588.--The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2
+threads in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches
+appear more raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece
+of wool.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_567" id=
+"page_567">[567]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 589.--The raised or velvet stitch is worked over
+small round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2
+similar meshes and as many threaded needles as there are colours in
+the work; make first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the
+common cross stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight
+under the place where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the
+same place, so as to form a slanting stitch on the right and on the
+wrong side; then begin to work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above
+it and draw it out in a slanting direction underneath. On the wrong
+side of the work a regular cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589
+shows 2 rows of velvet stitch completed and 2 rows being worked;
+the first of the latter is yet on the mesh, the second being worked
+so as to show the position of the wool upon the mesh. Observe that
+the rows of the velvet stitch are worked upwards, and that 2 meshes
+are necessary, because the lower one must not be drawn out before
+the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open if
+preferred.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_589"><img alt="Raised or Velvet Stitch."
+src="images/image589.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_568" id=
+"page_568">[568]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_590"><img alt="Plaited Stitch." src=
+"images/image590.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 590.--The plaited stitch is worked like the
+herring-bone stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height
+and 4 in width. Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited
+stitch completed, and the place where the needle is to be inserted
+for the next stitch is marked by a dot. For the next stitch the
+needle is carried under the 2 threads below the stitches of the
+preceding row.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 591.--The plush stitch is also worked upwards.
+Begin to work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through
+the canvas over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a
+slanting direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop
+hanging down about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more
+common cross stitch to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be
+worked over flat meshes. Work a common cross stitch at the end of
+every row. When the work is completed the loops are cut open and
+clipped, as may be seen from illustration.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_569" id=
+"page_569">[569]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_591"><img alt="Plush Stitch." src=
+"images/image591.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.--Three Berlin wool work borders for
+trimming baskets, &amp;c. No. 592.--The 2 outer rows which edge the
+border are worked in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is
+crossed in the centre with a back stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_592"><img alt="-Berlin Work Border." src=
+"images/image592.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite
+each other, which are formed of long straight stitches of different
+lengths. The <span class="newpage"><a name="page_570" id=
+"page_570">[570]</a></span> squares in the centre are formed in the
+same way, and are completed in the middle with a knot.</p>
+
+<p>No. 593.--The ground is worked in cross stitch, the raised
+patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there is a
+cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2
+threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No.
+594.--The petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height
+and in width, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_571" id=
+"page_571">[571]</a></span> and consisting of 4 slanting
+stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_593"><img alt="Berlin Work Border." src=
+"images/image593.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_594"><img alt="Berlin Work Border." src=
+"images/image594.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in
+cross stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of
+scallops, formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1
+slanting stitch. It is easy to work these stitches from
+illustration. The choice of colours depends upon what use the
+border is intended for and upon personal taste.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_572" id=
+"page_572">[572]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_573" id="page_573">[573]</a></span>
+
+
+<h3>PLATES</h3>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_574" id=
+"page_574">[574]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_575" id="page_575">[575]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_65"><img alt="TATTED ANTIMACASSAR" src=
+"images/image065.jpg"><br>
+ <font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+TATTED ANTIMACASSAR<br>
+</font></a>
+(<em>see page</em> <a href=
+"#page_80">80.)</a></center>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_576" id=
+"page_576">[576]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_577" id="page_577">[577]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_213"><img alt="COUVRETTE IN APPLIQU&Eacute;"
+src="images/image213.jpg"><br>
+<font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+COUVRETTE IN APPLIQU&Eacute; (213, 214 and
+215)<br>
+</font></a>
+(<em>See page</em> <a href="#page_184">184.)</a> </center>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_578" id="page_578">[578]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_334"><img alt="KNITTED TABLE COVER " src=
+"images/image334.jpg"><br>
+<font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+KNITTED TABLE COVER<br>
+</font></a>
+(<em>see page</em> <a href=
+"#page_347">347.)</a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_579" id=
+"page_579">[579]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_337"><img alt="KNITTED D'OYLEY " src=
+"images/image337.jpg"><br>
+ <font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+KNITTED D'OYLEY <br>
+ </font></a>
+(<em>see page</em> <a href="#page_352">352.)</a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_580" id=
+"page_580">[580]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_568"><img alt=
+"PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART" src="images/image568.jpg"><br>
+<font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART<br>
+ </font></a>
+(<em>see page</em> <a href="#page_549">549)</a></center>
+
+<br>
+ <br>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_581" id=
+"page_581">[581]</a></span> <a name="INDEX"></a>
+
+<h3>INDEX.</h3>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Acacia Spray in embroidery, <a href="#image_162">162</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Antimacassar, crochet <a href="#image_276">276</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Antimacassar in tatting <a href="#image_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Antimacassar, knitted <a href="#image_318">318 to320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Appliqu&eacute;, pattern for a couvrette in <a href=
+"#image_213">213 to 215</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arm-chair, covered with crochet <a href=
+"#image_254">254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arm-chair in crochet, patterns for <a href=
+"#image_255">255</a>, <a href="#image_256">256</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>BABY'S BOOT, knitted <a href="#image_326">326</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bag, crochet silk, over rings <a href=
+"#image_245">245</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Banner screen in guipure d'art <a href="#image_573">573</a>, <a
+href="#image_573">574</a></li>
+
+<li>BARS, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">D'Alen&ccedil;on <a href=
+"#image_463">463</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre <a href=
+"#image_467">467</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, edged <a href=
+"#image_468">468</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, dotted <a href=
+"#image_469">469</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raleigh <a href="#image_471">471</a>, <a href=
+"#image_472">472</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento <a href="#image_461">461</a><a href=
+"#image_462">462</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, dotted <a href=
+"#image_469">469</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Venetian, plain <a href="#image_464">464</a>, <a
+href="#image_465">465</a>, <a href="#image_466">466</a></li>
+
+<li>Basket, small, crochet <a href="#image_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Basket, crochet <a href="#image_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Basket, crochet <a href="#image_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Basket, embroidered in chenille <a href=
+"#image_134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Bedford plaited lace (1851) <a href="#image_423">423</a></li>
+
+<li>Bed-quilt, knitted border for <a href="#image_327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>BERLIN WOOL-WORK INSTRUCTIONS, <a href="#page_559">p.
+559.</a></li>
+
+<li>Berlin work, borders i <a href="#image_592">592 to 594</a></li>
+
+<li>BERLIN STITCHES.</li>
+
+
+<li class="indent">Common cross stitch <a href=
+"#image_577">577</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Damask stitch <a href="#image_581">581</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Leviathan stitch <a href="#image_583">583</a>,
+<a href="#image_584">584</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Leviathan double stitch <a href=
+"#image_585">585</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long cross stitch <a href="#image_578">578</a>,
+<a href="#image_579">579</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plaited stitch <a href="#image_590">590</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plush stitch <a href="#image_591">591</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised or velvet stitch <a href=
+"#image_589">589</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Rep stitch <a href="#image_582">582</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slanting cross stitch <a href=
+"#image_580">580</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slanting Gobelin stitch <a href=
+"#image_587">587</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Straight Gobelin stitch <a href=
+"#image_588">588</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Tent stitch <a href="#image_586">586</a></li>
+
+<li>(Black lace) Buckingham point trolly (1851) <a href=
+"#image_422">422</a></li>
+
+<li>Bodice, knitted <a href="#image_324">324</a>, <a href=
+"#image_325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Boot, baby's, knitted <a href="#image_326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders, crochet <a href="#image_252">252</a>, <a href=
+"#image_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, embroidered <a href="#image_150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Border for a reading-desk in embroidery <a href=
+"#image_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Border for couvrettes, guipure d'art <a href=
+"#image_561">561</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art <a href=
+"#image_564">564</a>, <a href="#image_565">565</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders, guipure d'art <a href="#image_552">525</a>, <a href=
+"#image_553">553</a>, <a href="#image_557">557</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, guipure d'art <a href="#image_575">575</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in crochet and tatting <a href="#image_052">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in Oriental embroidery <a href="#image_179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting and crochet <a href="#image_6">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting and crochet <a href="#image_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting and crochet <a href="#image_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting and lace stitch <a href=
+"#image_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting, with beads <a href="#image_13">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting, with crochet edging <a href=
+"#image_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, knitted <a href="#image_321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, tatting <a href="#image_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders, two crochet <a href="#image_274">274</a>, <a href=
+"#image_275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, with beads, tatted <a href="#image_13">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag <a href=
+"#image_169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Braces, embroidered <a href="#image_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Braces, knitted <a href="#image_338">338</a></li>
+
+<li>Brioche cushion in crochet, <a href="#image_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner <a href=
+"#image_212">212</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_582" id=
+"page_582">[582]</a></span>
+
+<ul>
+<li>CAP, border for, in tatting <a href="#image_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Cap crown in tatting <a href="#image_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Cap in tatting <a href="#image_38">38</a>, <a href=
+"#image_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Chenille, basket embroidered in <a href=
+"#image_134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Cigar-case, embroidered <a href="#image_190">190</a></li>
+
+<li>Circle for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in tatting <a href=
+"#image_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Circle in tatting <a href="#image_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Circle in tatting <a href="#image_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Circle in tatting <a href="#image_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar in tatting <a href="#image_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar in tatting and darned netting <a href=
+"#image_28">28</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting <a href=
+"#image_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting <a href=
+"#image_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, pine pattern, in tatting <a href="#image_1">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, tatted <a href="#image_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, trimming for, in tatting <a href=
+"#image_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, trimming for, in tatting <a href=
+"#image_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Comforters, &amp;c., knitting stitch for <a href=
+"#image_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery <a href=
+"#image_141">141</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner borders in guipure d'art <a href="#image_524">524</a>,
+<a href="#image_525">525</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner borders in guipure d'art <a href="#image_542">542</a>,
+<a href="#image_542">543</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner borders in guipure d'art <a href="#image_564">564</a>,
+<a href="#image_565">565</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner for handkerchief in point Russe embroidery <a href=
+"#image_149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner in embroidery <a href="#image_151">151</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner in embroidery <a href="#image_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Cotton, tatting, <a href="#page_82">p. 82</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette, centre of a tatted <a href="#image_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet <a href=
+"#image_250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette for arm-chair in crochet <a href=
+"#image_257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette in appliqu&eacute;, embroidery <a href=
+"#image_147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette in crochet <a href="#image_240">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette in tatting <a href="#image_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery <a href=
+"#image_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravats, &amp;c., in embroidery, patterns for <a href=
+"#image_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravats, &amp;c., in embroidery, patterns for <a href=
+"#image_185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat in tatting <a href="#image_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in embroidery <a href="#image_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in embroidery <a href="#image_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in raised embroidery <a href=
+"#image_156">156</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in tatting <a href="#image_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in tatting <a href="#image_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in tatting and darned netting <a href=
+"#image_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end, oval, in tatting <a href="#image_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat in muslin and tatting <a href="#image_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat, muslin, embroidered <a href="#image_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, antimacassar in <a href="#image_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, arm-chair covered with <a href=
+"#image_254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, arm-chair, patterns for <a href="#image_255">255</a>,
+<a href="#image_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet bag, silk, over rings <a href="#image_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet basket, small <a href="#image_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet basket <a href="#image_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet basket <a href="#image_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet borders <a href="#image_252">252</a>, <a href=
+"#image_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet borders, two <a href="#image_274">274</a>, <a href=
+"#image_275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, brioche cushion <a href="#image_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, couvrette for arm-chair <a href=
+"#image_257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, couvrette in <a href="#image_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in <a href=
+"#image_250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet D'Oyleys in Imitation of Point Lace</li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 1<a href="#image_262">262</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 2 <a href="#image_263">263</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 3 <a href="#image_264">264</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 4 <a href="#image_265">265</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 5 <a href="#image_266">266</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 6 <a href="#image_267">267</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 7 <a href="#image_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 8 <a href="#image_269">269</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 9 <a href="#image_270">270</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 10 <a href="#image_271">271</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet garter <a href="#image_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>CROTCHET INSTRUCTIONS</li>
+
+
+<li class="indent">Crotchet hook,Page <a href=
+"#page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Foundation chain, double, <a href=
+"#image_217">217</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Foundation chain, plain, <a href=
+"#image_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Foundation chain, purl, <a href=
+"#image_218">218</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spots, raised, <a href=
+"#image_232">232</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spots, hollow, <a href=
+"#image_233">233</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spots, open work, <a href=
+"#image_234">234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, lace, <a href="#image_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, lace, <a href="#image_261">261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, purse in, over rings, <a href=
+"#image_248">248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet rosettes, <a href="#image_280">280</a>, <a href=
+"#image_281">281</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet sovereign purse, <a href="#image_246">246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, star in, <a href="#image_244">244</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, stars in, <a href="#image_247">247</a>. CROCHET
+STITCHES</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cross stitch <a href="#image_224">224</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cross treble stitch <a href=
+"#image_229">229</a>, <a href="#image_230">230</a>, <a href=
+"#image_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Double long treble stitch <a href=
+"#image_228">228</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Double stitch <a href="#image_220">220</a>, <a
+href="#image_221">221</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long double stitch <a href=
+"#image_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long treble stitch <a href=
+"#image_227">227</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch <a href="#image_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch <a href="#image_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch <a href="#image_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised treble stitch <a href=
+"#image_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised ribbed stitch <a href=
+"#image_222">222</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised slanting stitch <a href=
+"#image_223">223</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slip stitch <a href="#image_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Treble stitch <a href="#image_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet trimming for a lady's chemise <a href=
+"#image_286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in
+appliqu&eacute; and velvet ribbon <a href="#image_282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet work, tobacco-pouch in <a href="#image_278">278</a>, <a
+href="#image_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet work, work-basket in straw and <a href=
+"#image_272">272</a>, <a href="#image_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Curtains, knitted pattern for <a href="#image_339">339</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette <a href=
+"#image_250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Dalecarlian lace <a href="#image_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond in tatting <a href="#image_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond in tatting <a href="#image_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond in tatting <a href="#image_053">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond in tatting <a href="#image_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond netting <a href="#image_305">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond tatting for collars, &amp;c. <a href="#image_20">20</a></li>
+
+
+<li>D'Oyleys, Crochet, in Imitation of Point Lace</li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 1<a href="#image_262">262</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 2 <a href="#image_263">263</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 3 <a href="#image_264">264</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 4 <a href="#image_265">265</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 5 <a href="#image_266">266</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 6 <a href="#image_267">267</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 7 <a href="#image_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 8 <a href="#image_269">269</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 9 <a href="#image_270">270</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 10 <a href="#image_271">271</a></li>
+
+<li>D'Oyley, knitted <a href="#image_337">337</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+
+<li>EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+
+<li class="indent">Antwerp <a href="#image_479">479</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre <a href=
+"#image_477">477</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Bruxelles <a href=
+"#image_474">474</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne <a href=
+"#image_478">478</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise <a href=
+"#image_476">476</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento <a href="#image_475">475</a></li>
+
+<li>Edging, embroidered <a href="#image_178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered border <a href="#image_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered border <a href="#image_150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered bouquet for travelling bag <a href=
+"#image_169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered braces <a href="#image_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for <a href=
+"#image_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for <a href=
+"#image_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner <a href=
+"#image_212">212</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered cigar-case <a href="#image_190">190</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered edging <a href="#image_178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered handkerchief <a href="#image_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered hanging letter-case <a href=
+"#image_176">176</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered in chenille, basket <a href=
+"#image_134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered key-bag <a href="#image_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered key-bag <a href="#image_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered knife-basket <a href="#image_159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered knife-basket <a href="#image_160">160</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered lace insertion <a href="#image_207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered lady's purse <a href="#image_157">157</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered letter-case, pattern for <a href=
+"#image_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered linen collar <a href="#image_193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered linen collar <a href="#image_194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered needle-book, pattern for <a href=
+"#image_166">166</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered needle-book, pattern for <a href=
+"#image_167">167</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for <a href=
+"#image_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered slipper, on Java canvas <a href=
+"#image_208">208</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for <a href=
+"#image_209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock <a href=
+"#image_195">195</a>, <a href="#image_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, acacia spray in <a href="#image_162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery and stitching, insertion in <a href=
+"#image_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, appliqu&eacute;, couvrette in <a href=
+"#image_147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery border for a reading-desk <a href=
+"#image_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, border in Oriental <a href=
+"#image_179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in <a href=
+"#image_141">141</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point Russe <a href=
+"#image_149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, corner in <a href="#image_151">151</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, corner in <a href="#image_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in <a href=
+"#image_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, cravat end in <a href="#image_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, cravat end in <a href="#image_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, cravat end in raised <a href=
+"#image_156">156</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, fuchsia spray in <a href="#image_161">161</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, glove-box in <a href="#image_174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, glove-box in <a href="#image_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, handkerchief border in <a href=
+"#image_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, handkerchief in <a href="#image_140">140</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_155">155</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_165">165</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_189">189</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS, <a href="#page_83">p. 83.</a></li>
+
+<li>Bead partly covered <a href="#image_103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Blossom in satin stitch <a href="#image_101">101</a>, <a href=
+"#image_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell <a href="#image_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell, inner part <a href="#image_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell, part of <a href="#image_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders <a href="#image_118">118</a>, <a href=
+"#image_119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Ear of corn <a href="#image_112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower <a href="#image_115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower in satin stitch <a href="#image_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower appliqu&eacute;d on net <a href=
+"#image_117">117</a></li>
+
+<li>Heartsease <a href="#image_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Initials <a href="#image_123">123 to 130</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertions <a href="#image_120">120 to 122</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf <a href="#image_94">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf in raised satin stitch <a href="#image_90">90</a>, <a
+href="#image_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, raised <a href="#image_92">92</a>, <a href=
+"#image_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, raised <a href="#image_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, half of <a href="#image_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, centre of <a href="#image_100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised embroidered leaf <a href="#image_98">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised flower <a href="#image_111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised leaf <a href="#image_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised leaf <a href="#image_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised satin stitch leaf <a href="#image_90">90</a>, <a href=
+"#image_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Rose in satin stitch <a href="#image_108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Rose, petal for <a href="#image_109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Star <a href="#image_106">106</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in point de reprise <a href="#image_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in satin stitch <a href="#image_104">104</a>
+
+<li>STITCH, EMBROIDERY.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, back <a href="#image_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, button and eyelet holes <a href=
+"#image_86">86</a>, <a href="#image_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, button-hole scallop <a href=
+"#image_82">82 to 85</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, double overcast <a href=
+"#image_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, knotted <a href="#image_73">73</a>, <a
+href="#image_74">74</a>, <a href="#image_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, ladder <a href="#image_80">80</a>, <a
+href="#image_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, overcast <a href="#image_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point crois&eacute; <a href=
+"#image_71">71</a>, <a href="#image_72">72</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point de minute <a href=
+"#image_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point de plume <a href=
+"#image_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, satin, raised<a href="#image_76">76</a>,
+<a href="#image_77">77</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, scallop <a href="#image_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, shaded button-hole <a href=
+"#image_88">88</a>, <a href="#image_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, slanting overcast <a href=
+"#image_69">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, medallion for a purse in <a href=
+"#image_198">198</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, medallion for a purse in <a href=
+"#image_199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, medallion in point Russe <a href=
+"#image_210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, medallion in point Russc <a href=
+"#image_211">211</a></li>
+
+<li>EMBROIDERY, MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN.</li>
+
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in coral stitch <a href=
+"#image_353">353</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in floral <a href=
+"#image_361">361</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in florid style <a href=
+"#image_356">356</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in forget-me-nots <a href=
+"#image_352">352</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet, point d'or <a href=
+"#image_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet, raised satin stitch <a
+href="#image_358c">359</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in satin stitch <a href=
+"#image_351">351</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet scalloped <a href=
+"#image_355">355</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet, small <a href=
+"#image_354">354</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, initials in <a href="#image_366">366
+to 417</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, monograms in <a href=
+"#image_366">366 to 417</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, names in <a href="#image_362">362 to
+418</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, sampler in <a href=
+"#image_358c">360</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, star alphabet, capitals <a href=
+"#image_349">349</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, star alphabet, small <a href=
+"#image_350">350</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, white, alphabet in <a href=
+"#image_358">358</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &amp;c, in <a href=
+"#image_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_133">133</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for trimming lingeries in <a href=
+"#image_143">143</a>, <a href="#image_143">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery pattern for what-not (full size) <a href=
+"#image_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, penwiper in <a href="#image_186">186</a> <a href=
+"#image_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, rose-leaf in <a href="#image_171">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, sandwich-case in <a href="#image_154">154</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery stars <a href="#image_137">137</a>, <a href=
+"#image_143">143</a>, <a href="#image_143">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery stars <a href="#image_180">180</a>, <a href=
+"#image_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, table-napkin ring in <a href=
+"#image_158">158</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in <a href="#image_163">163</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in <a href="#image_164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, travelling-bag in <a href="#image_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, trimming in, for bodices<a href=
+"#image_170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, Venetian border in <a href=
+"#image_206">206</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, Venetian, lappet or sash end in <a href=
+"#image_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, waste-paper basket in <a href=
+"#image_191">191</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, white, toilet-cushion cover in <a href=
+"#image_171">171</a>, <a href="#image_171">172</a>, <a href=
+"#image_171">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, wing of bird <a href="#image_171">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, work-bag in <a href="#image_200">200</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, wreath in, for centre of pincushion or toilet-mat<a
+href="#image_148">148</a></li>
+
+<li>English netting <a href="#image_308">308</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Fichu, netted <a href="#image_315">315</a>, <a href=
+"#image_316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower in guipure d'art <a href="#image_544">544</a></li>
+
+<li>Frame for guipure d'art <a href="#page_503">503</a></li>
+
+<li>Full-sized circle for embroidered pen-wiper <a href=
+"#image_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Fuchsia spray in embroidery <a href="#image_161">161</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Garter, crochet <a href="#image_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Glove-box in embroidery <a href="#image_174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Glove-box in embroidery <a href="#image_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Gauge, knitting<a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art</li>
+
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, banner-screen in <a href="#image_573">573</a>,
+<a href="#image_573">574</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, border for couvrettes in <a href=
+"#image_561">561</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art t, borders for handkerchief, corner <a href=
+"#image_564">565</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, borders in <a href="#image_552">552</a><a href=
+"#image_553">557</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, border in <a href="#image_575">575</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, corner borders in <a href="#image_524">524</a>,
+<a href="#image_525">525</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, corner borders in <a href="#image_542">542</a>,
+<a href="#image_542">543</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, corner borders in <a href="#image_564">564</a>,
+<a href="#image_565">565</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, flower in <a href="#image_544">544</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, frame for <a href="#image_503">503</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_521">521</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_526">526</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_528">528</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_539">539</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_547">548</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_558">558</a></li>
+
+<li>Gaipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_559">559</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertions, &amp;c., in <a href="#image_558">558
+to 563</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, instructions in, <a href="#page_503">p.
+503.</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art jewel-case cover <a href=
+"#image_567">567</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, jewel-case covered in <a href=
+"#image_566">566</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, lace borders for veils in <a href=
+"#image_537">537</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, lace border in <a href="#image_522">522</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, parasol-cover in <a href=
+"#image_568">568</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, quarter square in <a href=
+"#image_530">530</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, rosettes in <a href="#image_529">529</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, rosettes in <a href="#image_562">562</a>562<a
+href="#image_563">563</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art stitches.</li>
+
+<li>Grounding <a href="#image_533">533 to 536</a> Point de
+Bruxelles <a href="#image_509">509</a>, <a href=
+"#image_510">510</a> Point d'esprit <a href="#image_504">504</a>.
+Point de feston <a href="#image_506">506</a> Point de reprise <a
+href="#image_507">507</a>507<a href="#image_508">508</a> Point de
+toile <a href="#image_505">505</a> Stars <a href="#image_516">516
+to 520</a> Wheels <a href="#image_511">511 to 515</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, scent-sachet in <a href=
+"#image_569">569</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, small squares <a href="#image_527">527</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares for antimacassar <a href=
+"#image_550">550</a>, <a href="#image_551">551</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, square for d'oyley in <a href=
+"#image_523">523</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in, for dresses <a href=
+"#image_546">546</a>, <a href="#image_547">547</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, square in <a href="#image_531">531</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, square in <a href="#image_532">532</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, square in <a href="#image_556">556</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in <a href="#image_570">570</a>, <a
+href="#image_576">576</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in <a href="#image_533">533 to
+536</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in <a href="#image_538">538</a>, <a
+href="#image_538a">538A</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in <a href="#image_554">554</a>, <a
+href="#image_554">554</a> (</li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art), square in reticella work <a href=
+"#image_540">540</a> (</li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, enlarged <a href=
+"#image_541">541</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, work-basket covered with <a href=
+"#image_545">545</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, work-case in <a href="#image_571">571</a>, <a
+href="#image_572">572</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Handkerchief border in embroidery <a href=
+"#image_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Handkerchief in embroidery <a href="#image_140">140</a></li>
+
+<li>Hanging letter-case embroidered <a href=
+"#image_176">176</a></li>
+
+<li>Honiton guipure lace <a href="#image_424">424</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet A href="#image_284"&gt;284</li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_155">155</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_165">165</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_189">189</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery and stitching <a href=
+"#image_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d art <a href="#image_521">521</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_526">526</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_528">528</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_539">539</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_547">548</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_558">558</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_559">559</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertions in guipure d'art <a href="#image_558">558 to
+563</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertions in tatting <a href="#image_2">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting and crochet <a href=
+"#image_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting and crochet <a href=
+"#image_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting and lace stitch <a href=
+"#image_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting for trimming lingeries <a href=
+"#image_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, knitted <a href="#image_340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, wide, tatting <a href="#image_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, wide, tatting <a href="#image_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, wide, tatting <a href="#image_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, worked in tatting <a href="#image_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>INSTRUCTIONS IN BERLIN WOOL WORK, <a href="#page_559">p.
+559.</a></li>
+
+<li>Berlin work, borders in <a href="#image_592">592 to 594</a>
+
+<p>Berlin stitches</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Common cross stitch <a href=
+"#image_577">577</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Damask stitch <a href="#image_581">581</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Leviathan stitch <a href="#image_583">583</a>,
+<a href="#image_584">584</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Leviathan double stitch <a href=
+"#image_585">585</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long cross stitch <a href="#image_578">578</a>,
+<a href="#image_579">579</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plaited stitch <a href="#image_590">590</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plush stitch <a href="#image_591">591</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised or velvet stitch <a href=
+"#image_589">589</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Rep stitch <a href="#image_582">582</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slanting cross stitch <a href=
+"#image_580">580</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slanting Gobelin stitch <a href=
+"#image_587">587</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Straight Gobelin stitch <a href=
+"#image_588">588</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Tent stitch <a href="#image_586">586</a></li>
+
+<li>INSTRUCTIONS IN CROCHET <a href="#page_185">P.185</a> Crochet
+hook, <a href="#page_185">185.</a> Foundation chain, double <a
+href="#image_217">217</a> Foundation chain plain <a href=
+"#image_216">216</a> Foundation chain, purl <a href=
+"#image_218">218</a> Spots, raised <a href="#image_232">232</a>
+Spots, hollow <a href="#image_233">233</a> Spots, open work <a
+href="#image_234">234</a></li>
+
+<li>INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY, <a href="#page_83">p.83</a></li>
+
+<li>Bead partly covered <a href="#image_103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Blossom in satin stitch <a href="#image_101">101</a>, <a href=
+"#image_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell <a href="#image_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell, inner part <a href="#image_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell, part of <a href="#image_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders <a href="#image_118">118</a>, <a href=
+"#image_119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Ear of corn <a href="#image_112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower <a href="#image_115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower in satin stitch <a href="#image_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower appliqu&eacute;d on net <a href=
+"#image_117">117</a></li>
+
+<li>Heartsease<a href="#image_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Initials <a href="#image_123">123 to 130</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertions <a href="#image_120">120 to 122</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf <a href="#image_94">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, half of <a href="#image_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, centre of <a href="#image_100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf in raised satin stitch <a href="#image_90">90</a>, <a
+href="#image_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, raised <a href="#image_92">92</a>, <a href=
+"#image_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, raised <a href="#image_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised embroidered leaf <a href="#image_98">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised flower <a href="#image_111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised leaf <a href="#image_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised leaf <a href="#image_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised satin stitch leaf <a href="#image_90">90</a>, <a href=
+"#image_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Rose in satin stitch <a href="#image_108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Rose, petal for <a href="#image_109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Star <a href="#image_106">106</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in point de reprise <a href="#image_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in satin stitch <a href="#image_104">104</a>
+
+<p>STITCH, EMBROIDERY.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, back <a href="#image_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, button and eyelet holes <a href=
+"#image_85">85</a>, <a href="#image_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, button-hole scallop <a href=
+"#image_82">82 to85</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, double overcast <a href=
+"#image_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, knotted <a href="#image_73">73</a><a
+href="#image_74">74</a>, <a href="#image_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, ladder <a href="#image_80">80</a><a
+href="#image_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, overcast <a href="#image_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point crois&eacute; <a href=
+"#image_71">71</a>, <a href="#image_72">72</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point de minute <a href=
+"#image_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point de plume <a href=
+"#image_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, satin raised <a href="#image_76">76</a>,
+<a href="#image_77">77</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, scallop <a href="#image_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, shaded button-hole <a href=
+"#image_88">88</a>, <a href="#image_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, slanting overcast <a href=
+"#image_69">69</a></li>
+
+<li>INSTRUCTIONS IN GUIPURE D'ART, <a href="#page_503">p.503</a>.
+
+<p>INSTRUCTIONS IN TATTING.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li>Joining the work, <a href="#page_v">p.v</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pin, tatting, <a href="#page_ii">p.ii</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shuttles, tatting, <a href="#page_i">p.i</a>, <a href=
+"#page_iii">p.iii</a>.</li>
+
+<li>The way to hold the hands, <a href="#page_iii">p.iii</a></li>
+
+<li>The way to make a loop in tatting, <a href=
+"#page_iv">p.iv</a></li>
+
+<li>The way to make a purl, <a href="#page_v">p.v</a></li>
+
+<li>The way to make a stitch in tatting, <a href=
+"#page_iv">p.iv</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>JEWEL-CASE cover, guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_567">567</a></li>
+
+<li>Jewel-case covered in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_566">566</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>KEY-BAG, embroidered, <a href="#image_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Key-bag, embroidered, <a href="#image_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Knee-cap, knitted, <a href="#image_322">322</a></li>
+
+<li>Knife-basket, embroidered, <a href="#image_159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Knife-basket, embroidered, <a href="#image_160">160</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted antimacassar, <a href="#image_318">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted baby's boot, <a href="#image_326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted bodice, <a href="#image_324">324</a>, <a href=
+"#image_325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted border, <a href="#image_321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted border for bed-quilt, <a href=
+"#image_327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted braces, <a href="#image_338">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted comforters, pattern for, <a href=
+"#image_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted counterpanes, pattern for, <a href=
+"#image_313">313</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted cover for sofa-cushion, <a href="#image_341">341</a>,
+<a href="#image_342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted curtains, patterns for, <a href=
+"#image_339">339</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted d'oyley, <a href="#image_337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted insertion, <a href="#image_340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted knee-cap, <a href="#image_322">322</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted neckerchief, <a href="#image_323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted pattern, <a href="#image_345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted pattern, with embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_332">332</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted purse, lady's, <a href="#image_317">317</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted quilt, <a href="#image_328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted shawl, <a href="#image_346">346 to 348</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted sleeping sock, <a href="#image_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted sock for a child, <a href="#image_312">312</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted table-cover, <a href="#image_333">333</a>, <a href=
+"#image_334">334</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted veil, <a href="#image_330">330</a>, <a href=
+"#image_331">331</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting cotton, table of sizes of, <a href=
+"#page_368">p.368</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting gauge, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting, looped, <a href="#image_335">335</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting, materials required for, <a href=
+"#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting needles, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>KNITTING ON, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting, rosette for antimacassar in, <a href=
+"#image_319">319</a>
+
+<p>KNITTING STITCHES.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Brioche stitch, <a href=
+"#image_301">301</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Casting off, <a href="#image_293">295</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Casting on, <a href="#image_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Decreasing, <a href="#image_293">293</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Increasing, <a href="#image_292">292</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Knitting on, <a href="#image_289">289</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Knotted stitch, <a href=
+"#image_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Looped knitting, <a href=
+"#image_335">335</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Moss borders, <a href="#image_299">300</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Peacock's tail pattern, <a href=
+"#image_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Picking up stitches, <a href=
+"#image_293">296</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plain knitting, <a href=
+"#image_290">290</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purling, <a href="#image_291">291</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Round knitting, <a href=
+"#image_293">294</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spiral stitch, <a href="#image_298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting stitch for comforters, &amp;c., <a href=
+"#image_32">32</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>LACE, Bedford plaited (1851), <a href="#image_423">423</a></li>
+
+<li>(Lace, black), Buckingham point troll (1851), <a href=
+"#image_422">422</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace border for veils in guipure d'art <a href=
+"#image_537">537</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace border in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_522">522</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, crochet, <a href="#image_251">251</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, crochet, <a href="#image_261">261</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, Dalecarlian, <a href="#image_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, deep, in tatting, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace edging in tatting, <a href="#image_3">3</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace edging in tatting, <a href="#image_4">4</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, Honiton guipure, <a href="#image_424">424</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace insertion, embroidered, <a href="#image_207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace in tatting and crochet, <a href="#image_40">40</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, Mechlin (Queen Charlotte's), <a href=
+"#image_421">421</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, netted, <a href="#image_308">309</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, netted, open, <a href="#image_310">310</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, old Mechlin, <a href="#image_420">420</a></li>
+
+<li>LACE POINT.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Braid, placing the, <a href=
+"#image_442">442</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Braids, <a href="#image_426">426 to 431</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cords, <a href="#page_453">p. 453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Edgings, <a href="#image_474">474 to
+479</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">General directions for working, <a href=
+"#page_453">p. 453</a><a href="#page_454">p. 454</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Materials required, <a href="#page_451">p.
+451</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Modes of working dots and picots, <a href=
+"#image_470">470</a>, <a href="#image_473">473</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Scissors for, <a href="#image_425">425</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Threads, sizes of, <a href="#page_500">p.
+500</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, tatted, <a href="#image_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, tatted, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Lady's embroidered purse, <a href="#image_157">157</a></li>
+
+<li>Lady's veil in net and tatting, <a href="#image_16">16</a>, <a
+href="#image_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Lappet or sash-end in. Venetian embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Linen collar embroidered, <a href="#image_193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Linen collar embroidered, <a href="#image_194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Linen tatting-bag, <a href="#image_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Linen bag for tatting cotton, <a href="#image_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Looped knitting, <a href="#image_335">335</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>MATERIALS required fur knitting, <a href=
+"#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Materials required for netting.<a href=
+"#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Mechlin lace (Queen Charlotte's), <a href=
+"#image_421">421</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion for a purse in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_198">198</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion for a purse in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion for trimming lingeries in tatting, <a href=
+"#image_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion in point Russe embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion in point Russe embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_211">211</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion, tatting, <a href="#image_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Mignardise and tatting, <a href="#image_29">29</a>
+
+<p>MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN EMBROIDERY.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, coral stitch embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_353">353</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, floral embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_361">361</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, florid style of embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_356">356</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, forget-me-nots (embroidered), <a href=
+"#image_352">352</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, point d'or (embroidered), <a href=
+"#image_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, raised satin stitch embroidery, <a
+href="#image_358c">359</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, satin stitch (embroidered), <a href=
+"#image_351">351</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, scalloped, in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_355">355</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, small, in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_354">354</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, star, capitals, in embroidery, <a
+href="#image_349">349</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, star, small, in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_350">350</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, white, embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_358">358</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Initials in embroidery, <a href="#image_366">366
+to 417</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Monograms in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_366">366 to 417</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Names in embroidery, <a href="#image_362">362 to
+418</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sampler in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_358c">360</a></li>
+
+<li>Muslin cravat, embroidered, <a href="#image_153">153</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Neckerchief, knitted, <a href="#image_323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Needle and mesh for netting, <a href="#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Needles, knitting, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted fichu, <a href="#image_315">315</a>, <a href=
+"#image_316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted lace, <a href="#image_308">309</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted nightcaps, <a href="#image_343">343</a>, <a href=
+"#image_344">344</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted open lace, <a href="#image_310">310</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted shell border, <a href="#image_311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Netting, <a href="#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Netting, <a href="#image_303">303</a>
+
+<p>NETTING STITCHES.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Diamond, <a href="#image_305">306</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">English, <a href="#image_305">308</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Bound, <a href="#image_305">305</a>, <a href=
+"#image_305">307</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Square, <a href="#image_303">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Netting, materials required for, <a href=
+"#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Netting needle and mesh, <a href="#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Nightcaps, netted, <a href="#image_343">343</a>, <a href=
+"#image_344">344</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Old Mechlin lace, <a href="#image_420">420</a></li>
+
+<li>ON KNITTING, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Parasol-Cover in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_568">568</a></li>
+
+<li>Patterns for arm-chair crochet borders, <a href=
+"#image_255">255</a>, <a href="#image_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for a couvrette in appliqu&eacute;, <a href=
+"#image_213">213 to 215</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for cravats, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for cravats, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Patterns, embroidery, for what-not (full size), <a href=
+"#image_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for cravat ends, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_133">133</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for cravat ends, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), <a href=
+"#image_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), <a href=
+"#image_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered letter-case, <a href=
+"#image_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered needlebook, <a href=
+"#image_166">166</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered needlebook, <a href=
+"#image_167">167</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for knitted comforters, <a href=
+"#image_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for knitted counterpanes, <a href=
+"#image_313">313</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for trimming lingeries in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_143">143</a>, <a href="#image_143">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Patterns for veil in tatting, <a href="#image_18">18</a>, <a
+href="#image_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern, knitted, <a href="#image_345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>PATTERNS, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, <a href="#image_501">502</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, description of, <a href=
+"#image_500">500 to 502</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Bars, d'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento, <a href=
+"#image_494">494</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Borders, <a href="#image_482">482</a>, <a href=
+"#image_483">483</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Collars, <a href="#image_493">493</a> <a href=
+"#image_496">496</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cravat end, <a href="#image_487">487</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Design for point lace collar, lappets, &amp;c.,
+<a href="#image_490">490</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Dress trimming, <a href=
+"#image_492">492</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Edgings, <a href="#image_488">488</a>, <a href=
+"#image_489">489</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Handkerchief border, <a href=
+"#image_485">485</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Insertion (Limoges), <a href=
+"#image_484">484</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Lappet, <a href="#image_490">490</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Lappet, <a href="#image_497">497</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Letter <em>A</em> in point lace, <a href=
+"#image_500">500</a>, <a href="#image_501">501</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Medallion, <a href="#image_481">481</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Oval for cravats, <a href=
+"#image_491">491</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Star, <a href="#image_480">480</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Toilet cushion centre, <a href=
+"#image_486">486</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels, close English, <a href=
+"#image_495">495</a></li>
+
+<li>Penwiper in embroidery, <a href="#image_186">186</a>, <a href=
+"#image_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>POINT LACE</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Braid, placing the, <a href=
+"#image_442">442</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Braids, <a href="#image_426">426 to 431</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cords, <a href="#page_453">p. 453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Edgings, <a href="#image_474">474 to
+479</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">General directions for working, <a href=
+"#image_453">453</a>, <a href="#image_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Materials required, <a href="#page_451">p.
+451</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Modes of working dots or picots, <a href=
+"#image_470">470</a>, <a href="#image_473">473</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Scissors for, <a href="#image_425">425</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Threads, sizes of, <a href="#page_500">p.
+500</a></li>
+
+<li>POINT LACE BARS</li>
+
+<li class="indent">D'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href="#image_463">463</a>
+Point d'Angleterre, <a href="#image_467">467</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, edged, <a href=
+"#image_468">468</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, dotted, <a href=
+"#image_469">469</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raleigh, <a href="#image_471">471</a>, <a href=
+"#image_472">472</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, <a href="#image_461">461</a>, <a href=
+"#image_462">462</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, dotted, <a href=
+"#image_469">469</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Venetian, plain, <a href="#image_464">464</a>,
+<a href="#image_465">465</a>, <a href="#image_466">466</a></li>
+
+<li>POINT LACE EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Antwerp, <a href="#image_479">479</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, <a href=
+"#image_477">477</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point do Bruxelles, <a href=
+"#image_474">474</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, <a href=
+"#image_478">478</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, <a href=
+"#image_476">476</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, <a href="#image_475">475</a></li>
+
+<li>POINT LACE PATTERNS</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, <a href="#image_501">502</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, description of, <a href=
+"#image_500">500</a>, <a href="#image_501">502</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Bars, d'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento, <a href=
+"#image_494">494</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Borders, <a href="#image_482">482</a>, <a href=
+"#image_483">483</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Collars, <a href="#image_493">493</a>, <a href=
+"#image_496">496</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cravat end, <a href="#image_487">487</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Design for point Lice collar, lappets, &amp;c.,
+<a href="#image_490">490</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Dress trimming, <a href=
+"#image_492">492</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Edgings, <a href="#image_488">488</a>, <a href=
+"#image_489">489</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Handkerchief border, <a href=
+"#image_485">485</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Insertion (Limoges), <a href=
+"#image_484">484</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Lappet, <a href="#image_490">490</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Lappet, <a href="#image_497">497</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Letter <em>A</em> in point lace, <a href=
+"#image_500">500</a>, <a href="#image_501">501</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Medallion, <a href="#image_481">481</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Oval for cravats, <a href=
+"#image_491">491</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Star, <a href="#image_480">480</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Toilet cushion centre, <a href=
+"#image_486">486</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels, close English, <a href=
+"#image_495">495</a> POINT LACE STITCHES</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Brussels lace, <a href="#image_433">433</a>, <a
+href="#image_434">434</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Escalier lace, <a href="#image_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Mechlin lace, <a href="#image_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, <a href=
+"#image_444">444</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, enlarged, <a href=
+"#image_445">445</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Anvers, <a href=
+"#image_498">498</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_442">442</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_443">443</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point Braban&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_449">449</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Bruxelles, <a href=
+"#image_433">433</a>, <a href="#image_434">434</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Cordova, <a href=
+"#image_447">447</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, <a href=
+"#image_437">437</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne; close, <a href=
+"#image_438">438</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d' Espagne, treble, <a href=
+"#image_439">439</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de fillet, <a href=
+"#image_450">450</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de fillet and point reprise, <a href=
+"#image_451">451</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Grecque, <a href="#image_440">440</a>,
+<a href="#image_499">499</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de reprise, <a href=
+"#image_448">448</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de tulle, <a href=
+"#image_452">452</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point Turque, <a href="#image_446">446</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Valenciennes, <a href=
+"#image_441">441</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, <a href="#image_435">435</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, petit, <a href=
+"#image_436">436</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spanish point, <a href="#image_455">455</a>
+
+<p>POINT LACE WHEELS AND ROSETTES</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">English, plain, <a href=
+"#image_458">458</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">English, raised, <a href=
+"#image_459">459</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Mechlin, <a href="#image_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Rosette for centres, <a href=
+"#image_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, <a href="#image_456">456</a>, <a href=
+"#image_456">457</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels and rosettes, <a href=
+"#image_456">456</a>, <a href="#image_456">457</a></li>
+
+<li>Point Russe stitch for embroidered slipper, <a href=
+"#image_209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Purse, crochet sovereign, <a href="#image_246">246</a></li>
+
+<li>Purse in crochet over rings, <a href="#image_248">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Parse in tatting and beads, <a href="#image_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Purse, knitted, <a href="#image_317">317</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Quarter-square in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_530">530</a></li>
+
+<li>Quilt, knitted, <a href="#image_328">328</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Rose-leaf in embroidery, <a href="#image_171">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosettes, crochet, <a href="#image_280">280</a>, <a href=
+"#image_281">281</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosettes, embroidery and tatting, <a href="#image_48">48</a>,
+<a href="#image_61">61</a>, <a href="#image_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette for antimacassar in knitting, <a href=
+"#image_319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosettes in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_529">529</a>, <a
+href="#image_562">526</a>, <a href="#image_563">563</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting, <a href="#image_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting, <a href="#image_34">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting, <a href="#image_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting, <a href="#image_45">45</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting and embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting and embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting and embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Round netting, <a href="#image_305">305</a>, <a href=
+"#image_305">307</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>SANDWICH-CASE in embroidery, <a href="#image_154">154</a></li>
+
+<li>Scent-sachet in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_569">569</a></li>
+
+<li>Shawl, knitted, <a href="#image_346">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Shell border, netted, <a href="#image_311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Sleeping sock, knitted, <a href="#image_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Slipper, embroidered on Java canvas, <a href=
+"#image_208">208</a></li>
+
+<li>Sock, knitted, for a child, <a href="#image_312">312</a></li>
+
+<li>Sofa-cushion, knitted cover for, <a href="#image_341">341</a>,
+<a href="#image_342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares for antimacassar in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_550">550</a>, <a href="#image_551">551</a></li>
+
+<li>Square for d'oyley in guipure d art, <a href=
+"#image_523">523</a></li>
+
+<li>Square, guipure d'art, <a href="#image_531">531</a></li>
+
+<li>Square, guipure d'art, <a href="#image_532">532</a></li>
+
+<li>Square, guipure d'art, <a href="#image_556">556</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares, guipure d'art, <a href="#image_570">570</a>, <a href=
+"#image_576">576</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_533">533 to
+536</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_538">538</a>, <a
+href="#image_538a">538a</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_554">554</a>, <a
+href="#image_555">555</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares in guipure d'art for dresses, <a href=
+"#image_546">546</a>, <a href="#image_547">547</a></li>
+
+<li>Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), <a href=
+"#image_540">540</a></li>
+
+<li>Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), enlarged, <a href=
+"#image_541">541</a></li>
+
+<li>Square in tatting for pincushion or couvrette, <a href=
+"#image_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Square netting, <a href="#image_303">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares, small, in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_527">527</a></li>
+
+<li>Star, crochet, <a href="#image_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Stars in crochet, <a href="#image_247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Stars in embroidery, <a href="#image_137">137</a>, <a href=
+"#image_143">143</a>, <a href="#image_143">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Stars in embroidery, <a href="#image_180">180</a>, <a href=
+"#image_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in tatting, <a href="#image_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, CROCHET.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cross stitch, <a href="#image_224">224</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cross treble stitch, <a href=
+"#image_229">229</a>, <a href="#image_230">230</a>, <a href=
+"#image_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Double long treble stitch, <a href=
+"#image_228">228</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Double stitch, <a href="#image_220">220</a>, <a
+href="#image_221">221</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long double stitch, <a href=
+"#image_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long treble stitch, <a href=
+"#image_227">227</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch, <a href="#image_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch, <a href="#image_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch, <a href="#image_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised treble stitch, <a href=
+"#image_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised ribbed stitch, <a href=
+"#image_222">222</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised slanting stitch, <a href=
+"#image_223">223</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slip stitch, <a href="#image_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Treble stitch, <a href="#image_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, GUIPURE D'ART.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Grounding, <a href="#image_533">533 to
+536</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Bruxelles, <a href=
+"#image_509">509</a>, <a href="#image_510">510</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'esprit, <a href=
+"#image_504">504</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de feston, <a href=
+"#image_506">506</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de reprise, <a href="#image_507">507</a>,
+<a href="#image_508">508</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de toile, <a href=
+"#image_505">505</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stars, <a href="#image_516">516 to 520</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels, <a href="#image_511">511 to 515</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, KNITTING.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Brioche stitch, <a href=
+"#image_301">301</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Casting off, <a href="#image_293">295</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Casting on, <a href="#image_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Decreasing, <a href="#image_293">293</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Increasing, <a href="#image_292">292</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Knitting on, <a href="#image_289">289</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Knotted stitch, <a href=
+"#image_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Looped knitting, <a href=
+"#image_335">335</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Moss borders, <a href="#image_299">300</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Peacock-tail pattern, <a href=
+"#image_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Picking up stitches, <a href=
+"#image_293">296</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plain, <a href="#image_290">290</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purling, <a href="#image_291">291</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Round knitting, <a href=
+"#image_293">294</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spiral stitch, <a href="#image_298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, NETTING.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Diamond, <a href="#image_305">306</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">English, <a href="#image_308">308</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Round, <a href="#image_305">305</a>, <a href=
+"#image_305">307</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Square, <a href="#image_303">304</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Brussels lace, <a href="#image_433">433</a>, <a
+href="#image_434">434</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Escalier lace, <a href="#image_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Mechlin lace, <a href="#image_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_442">442</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_443">443</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, <a href=
+"#image_444">444</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, enlarged,</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Anvers, <a href=
+"#image_498">498</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point Braban&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_449">449</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Bruxelles, <a href=
+"#image_433">433</a>, <a href="#image_434">434</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Cordova, <a href=
+"#image_447">447</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, <a href=
+"#image_437">437</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, close, <a href=
+"#image_438">438</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, treble, <a href=
+"#image_439">439</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de fillet, <a href=
+"#image_450">450</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de fillet and point reprise, <a href=
+"#image_451">451</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Grecque, <a href="#image_440">440</a>,
+<a href="#image_499">499</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de reprise, <a href=
+"#image_448">448</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de tulle, <a href=
+"#image_452">452</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point Turque, <a href="#image_446">446</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Valenciennes, <a href=
+"#image_441">441</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, <a href="#image_435">435</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, petit, <a href="#image_436">436</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spanish point, <a href="#image_455">355</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>TABLE-COVER, knitted, <a href="#image_333">333</a>, <a href=
+"#image_334">334</a></li>
+
+<li>Table-napkin ring in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Table of sizes of knitting cotton, <a href="#page_363">p.
+363</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and beads, purse in, <a href="#image_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, border in, <a href="#image_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, border in, <a href="#image_052">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, insertion in, <a href=
+"#image_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, insertion in, <a href=
+"#image_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, lace in, <a href="#image_40">40</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and darned netting, collar in, <a href=
+"#image_28">28</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and darned netting, cravat-end in, <a href=
+"#image_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, <a href=
+"#image_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, <a href=
+"#image_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, <a href=
+"#image_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and lace stitch, insertion in, <a href=
+"#image_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and mignardise, <a href="#image_29">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and muslin, cravat in, <a href="#image_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and net, lady's veil in, <a href="#image_16">16</a>, <a
+href="#image_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, antimacassar in, <a href="#image_65">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting-bag, linen, <a href="#image_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border, <a href="#image_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border for cap in. <a href="#image_6">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border in crochet and, <a href="#image_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border in crochet and, <a href="#image_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border in, with crochet edging, <a href=
+"#image_5">5</a>, <a href="#image_6">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border in lace stitch and, <a href=
+"#image_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border, with beads, <a href="#image_13">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cap-crown in, <a href="#image_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cap in, <a href="#image_38">38</a>, <a href=
+"#image_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, circle for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in, <a href=
+"#image_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, circle in, <a href="#image_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, circle in, <a href="#image_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, circle in, <a href="#image_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, collar in, <a href="#image_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, collar in, <a href="#image_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, collar, pine pattern in, <a href="#image_1">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting-cotton, <a href="#page_82">p. 82</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting-cotton, linen bag for, <a href="#image_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, couvrette, centre of a, <a href=
+"#image_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cravat-end in, <a href="#image_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cravat-end in, <a href="#image_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, oval cravat-end in, <a href="#image_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cravat in, <a href="#image_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, deep border in crochet and, <a href=
+"#image_052">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, deep lace in, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond in, <a href="#image_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond in. <a href="#image_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond in, <a href="#image_053">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond in, <a href="#image_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond, for collars, &amp;c., <a href=
+"#image_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion in, for trimming lingeries, <a href=
+"#image_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion worked in, <a href="#image_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>TATTING INSTRUCTIONS.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Joining the work, <a href="#page_v">p.
+v</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Pin, tatting, <a href="#page_ii">p. ii</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Shuttles, tatting, <a href="#page_i">p. i</a>,
+<a href="#page_iii">p.iii</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">The way to hold the hands, <a href=
+"#page_iii">p. iii</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">The way to make aloop in tatting, <a href=
+"#page_iv">p. iv</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">The way to make a purl, <a href="#page_v">p.
+v</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">The way to make a stitch in tatting, <a href=
+"#page_iv">p. iv</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, lace, <a href="#image_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, lace, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, lace edging in, <a href="#image_3">3</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, lace edging in, <a href="#image_4">4</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, <a href=
+"#image_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, <a href=
+"#image_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, medallion for trimming lingeries in, <a href=
+"#image_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, oval cravat-end in, <a href="#image_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, patterns for veils in, <a href="#image_18">18</a>, <a
+href="#image_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, rosette in, <a href="#image_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, rosette in, <a href="#image_34">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, rosette in, <a href="#image_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, rosette in, <a href="#image_45">45</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, square in, for pincushion or couvrette, <a href=
+"#image_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, star in, <a href="#image_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, trimming for collar in, <a href=
+"#image_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, trimming for collar in, <a href=
+"#image_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, wide insertion in, <a href="#image_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, wide insertion in, <a href="#image_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, wide insertion in, <a href="#image_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, with beads, border in, <a href=
+"#image_13">13</a>,</li>
+
+<li>Tobacco-pouch in crochet work, <a href="#image_278">278</a>, <a
+href="#image_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, <a href="#image_163">163</a></li>
+
+<li>Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, <a href="#image_164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Toilet-cushion cover in white embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_171">171</a>, <a href="#image_171">172</a>, <a href=
+"#image_171">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Travelling-bag in embroidery, <a href="#image_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Trimming, crochet, with embroidered flowers worked in applique
+and velvet ribbon, <a href="#image_282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Trimming for a lady's chemise, in crochet, <a href=
+"#image_286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>Trimming in embroidery for bodices, <a href=
+"#image_170">170</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>VEIL, knitted, <a href="#image_330">330</a>, <a href=
+"#image_331">331</a></li>
+
+<li>Veil, lady's, in net and tatting, <a href="#image_16">16</a>,
+<a href="#image_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Veils, patterns for, in tatting, <a href=
+"#image_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Venetian border in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_206">206</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>WASTE-PAPER basket in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_191">191</a></li>
+
+<li>What-not, embroidered in the shape of a hammock, <a href=
+"#image_195">195</a>, <a href="#image_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>WHEELS AND ROSETTES, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">English plain, <a href="#image_458">458</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">English raised, <a href=
+"#image_459">459</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Mechlin, <a href="#image_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Rosette for centres, <a href=
+"#image_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, <a href="#image_456">456</a>, <a href=
+"#image_456">458</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels and rosettes, <a href=
+"#image_456">456</a>, <a href="#image_456">457</a></li>
+
+<li>Wing of bird in embroidery, <a href="#image_171">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Work-bag in embroidery, <a href="#image_200">200</a></li>
+
+<li>Work-basket covered with guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_545">545</a></li>
+
+<li>Work-basket in straw and silk crochet work, <a href=
+"#image_272">272</a>, <a href="#image_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Work-case in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_571">571</a>, <a
+href="#image_572">572</a></li>
+
+<li>Wreath in embroidery for centre of pin-cushion or toilet-mat,
+<a href="#image_148">148</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton
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+Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Beeton's Book of Needlework
+
+Author: Isabella Beeton
+
+Release Date: February 22, 2005 [EBook #15147]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEETON'S BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julie Barkley and the PG Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  BEETON'S BOOK
+
+  OF
+
+  NEEDLEWORK.
+
+
+
+
+  CONSISTING OF
+
+  DESCRIPTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS,
+
+  ILLUSTRATED BY
+
+  SIX HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS,
+
+  OF TATTING PATTERNS.
+
+  CROCHET PATTERNS.
+
+  KNITTING PATTERNS.
+
+  NETTING PATTERNS.
+
+  EMBROIDERY PATTERNS.
+
+  POINT LACE PATTERNS.
+
+  GUIPURE D'ART.
+
+  BERLIN WORK.
+
+  MONOGRAMS.
+
+  INITIALS AND NAMES.
+
+  PILLOW LACE, AND LACE STITCHES.
+
+
+
+
+_Every Pattern and Stitch Described and Engraved with the utmost
+Accuracy, and the Exact Quantity of Material requisite for each Pattern
+stated._
+
+
+
+CHANCELLOR PRESS
+
+
+
+_Beeton's Book of Needlework_ was originally published in Great Britain
+in 1870 by Ward, Lock and Tyler.
+
+
+
+
+
+This facsimile edition published in Great
+
+Britain in 1986 by
+
+Chancellor Press
+
+59 Grosvenor Street London W 1
+
+
+
+
+
+Printed in Czechoslovakia 50617
+
+
+
+
+
+SAMUEL BUTLER'S PREFACE
+
+
+The Art of Needlework dates from the earliest record of the world's
+history, and has, also, from time immemorial been the support, comfort,
+or employment of women of every rank and age. Day by day, it increases
+its votaries, who enlarge and develop its various branches, so that any
+addition and assistance in teaching or learning Needlework will be
+welcomed by the Daughters of England, "wise of heart," who work
+diligently with their hands.
+
+The recent introduction of Point Lace has brought a finer, and,
+apparently, more difficult class of fancy work into general favour.
+Ladies may now, however, confidently commence, with our patterns before
+them, to reproduce Antique laces; for care and patience, with a
+knowledge of Point Lace stitches, are alone required to perfect the
+beautiful work, which, as shown in existing specimens of exquisite Old
+Lace, constitute the chief glory of women's refined industry in past
+centuries.
+
+INSTRUCTIONS in TATTING, in EMBROIDERY, in CROCHET, in KNITTING and
+NETTING, in BERLIN WOOL WORK, in POINT LACE, and GUIPURE D'ART are
+prefixed to the pages devoted to these separate branches of needlework.
+The whole work is interspersed with coloured and other Patterns in Point
+Lace, Guipure d'Art, Tatting, Embroidery, and Designs for Monograms and
+Initials for marking handkerchiefs and table-linen. The quantity of
+materials required for each class of work is also given with every
+pattern.
+
+The idea of combining a series of minute and exact instructions in fancy
+needlework with useful patterns was conceived some years ago by one
+whose life was devoted to the inculcation of the practical duties of
+woman's life, and to assisting her sex in their daily work of HOUSEHOLD
+MANAGEMENT and REFINEMENT.
+
+Her great wish was that her BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK should be as valuable in
+its way to her Countrywomen as her work upon Household Management was
+useful in showing the best mode of providing for the diurnal wants of
+families. Other hands have brought to a conclusion her original plans.
+The best attainable workers have contributed to this volume. Only those
+who knew the extent of the late Mrs. Beeton's design, will miss, in the
+pages now before them, "the touch of a vanished hand."
+
+S.O.B.
+
+_Paternoster Row,_ 1870.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+TATTING INSTRUCTIONS
+
+TATTING PATTERNS
+
+EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS
+
+EMBROIDERY PATTERNS
+
+CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS
+
+CROCHET PATTERNS
+
+KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS
+
+NETTING INSTRUCTIONS
+
+KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS
+
+ALPHABETS FOR MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS
+
+MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS
+
+POINT LACE WORK
+
+POINT LACE INSTRUCTIONS
+
+POINT LACE PATTERNS
+
+INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS IN GUIPURE D'ART
+
+BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS
+
+TATTING.
+
+
+
+
+TATTING
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS
+
+[Illustration: Tatting Shuttle.]
+
+The needlework called Tatting in England, _Frivolite_ in French, and
+_Frivolitaeten_ in German, is a work which seems, from all accounts, to
+have been in favour several generations ago. Modern ingenuity has
+discovered some ways of improving on the original plan of tatting, which
+was, indeed, rather a primitive sort of business as first practised. To
+Mrs. Mee, one of our most accomplished _artistes_ in all matters
+connected with the work-table, belongs, we believe, the introduction of
+the plan of working from the reel instead of the shuttle. By this
+alteration the advantage of the shuttle being constantly kept filled
+with cotton was gained, and the necessity also obviated for frequently
+joining the thread; and to Mdlle. Riego, equally distinguished in all
+details appertaining to the employment of the needle, ladies are
+indebted for an arrangement by which the same thread used in the making
+of the pattern is used for fastening the work. The old plan only
+provided for the working of the different portions which constituted the
+pattern, and then these portions had to be sewn together with a needle
+and thread. The ingenious workers on the Continent have also given much
+attention of late to the art of tatting, and our instructions now
+printed comprise what we consider the best mode of learning and doing
+this exceedingly interesting and fashionable work.
+
+[Illustration: Tatting Pin.]
+
+Tatting differs entirely from crochet, and is composed of stitches
+forming _knots_. It is intended as an imitation of point lace, and is
+especially used for trimming under-linen, on account of its strength.
+
+To make the stitches or knots a small instrument is used, called a
+_shuttle_. This shuttle consists of two oval pieces, flat on one side
+and convex on the other, and is made of wood or ivory.
+
+The two oval pieces are joined together by a strong cross-piece. The
+illustration shows the construction of the shuttle. These shuttles are
+made in ivory, pearl, tortoiseshell inlaid with pearl, and silver; they
+are also manufactured in coloured bone, black, red, and white. The best
+to work with are the pearl for a white shuttle, and the inlaid
+tortoiseshell for a black shuttle; the prices vary from sixpence to one
+shilling and two-and-sixpence each. In selecting a shuttle be careful to
+see that the ends close, as if dropped it soon becomes unthreaded, which
+is very inconvenient. The cotton intended for the work is wound round
+this shuttle, and the thickness of the cotton varies according to the
+style of work. It is better to use the proper tatting cotton, because it
+is stronger than the ordinary kinds; this is manufactured by Messrs.
+Walter Evans and Co. for the purpose. Their Boar's Head Cotton is also
+frequently used, and answers very well.
+
+
+_Shuttles._
+
+These are made in 3 sizes:--Finest, No. 1; No. 2, useful medium size;
+No. 3, the largest.
+
+
+_The Way to Hold the Hands._
+
+Take the shuttle in the right hand, between the thumb and second finger,
+and allow the forefinger to remain at liberty, and rest the under part
+of the shuttle _between_ the second and third and _on_ the middle
+finger. Place the thread round the three middle fingers of the left
+hand, so as to form a loop, keeping the second and third fingers a
+little apart, and bring the cotton again between the thumb and
+forefinger, letting the end fall within the palm of the hand, while the
+end of cotton which holds on to the shuttle passes over the thumb-nail.
+
+
+_To Make a Stitch._
+
+Keep the hands in the position above described; pass the shuttle at the
+back, through the loop--that is, between the second and third fingers.
+Take the end of the shuttle which comes out from the loop between the
+forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and strain the cotton very
+tightly towards the right. When the cotton is drawn through the loop,
+this cotton must not be impeded by the fourth finger; it should, on the
+contrary, slide over it, and be drawn tight. It should divide the loop
+into two parts. After this withdraw the second left-hand finger, which
+is _above_ the cotton, and pass it again under that cotton, so as to
+draw up the loop. A _half-stitch_ is thus formed, and must be tightened
+by being drawn closely to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand. For
+the remaining half of the stitch keep the hands in the same position,
+but, instead of letting the cotton fall over the thumb, pass this cotton
+over the back of the hand; then let the shuttle fall between the second
+and third fingers of the left hand, in front, and take it out again at
+the back, strain the cotton very tightly, withdraw the second finger
+from the loop, letting the cotton which is behind the hand sweep over
+the fingers. When this is done, guide with the unoccupied fingers of the
+left hand this second half-stitch up to the other, thus completing _one
+stitch_.
+
+
+_The Way to Make a Loop in Tatting._
+
+When a certain number of stitches are made, very tightly draw in the
+loop by straining the cotton until the first stitch touches the last,
+and thus a loop is formed. During this process the stitches should be
+held tightly between the forefinger and thumb.
+
+
+_The Way to Make a Purl._
+
+A _purl_ is a small loop of cotton often used as an edging in tatting,
+as, for instance, round the outer edge of the ovals in tatted insertion
+No. 2. The following is the easiest method of making a purl:--The
+stitches are not made quite closely together at the place where a purl
+is to be made; about one-sixth of an inch is left between each. This
+space is left free until the loop is made by uniting the stitches; then
+the small piece of cotton in the space bulges out between the stitches,
+and forms the purl. If several are required a small space is left
+between every two or three stitches, according to the desired number.
+Care must be taken in that case that the small pieces of cotton left be
+all of the same length, so that the purl may be perfectly even. The purl
+can also be made thus: At the same time with the end of thread take the
+tatting-pin or a very large darning needle or knitting needle in the
+left hand, so that the point may come out farther than the row of
+stitches; if then you wish to make a purl, throw the cotton on the pin
+before making the stitch; then fasten this stitch, and push it at once
+close to the preceding; the pin with the cotton should come above the
+stitches. Do not take out the pin before all the purl and all the
+stitches are completed and joined together.
+
+
+_Joining the Work._
+
+Place the tatting-pin in the loop that is to be joined, and with the
+hook draw the thread of the loop--that is, round the hand through
+it--pass the shuttle through this loop, and draw it up tightly close to
+the stitches.
+
+A "straight" or double thread is used to join various parts of the work,
+and forms very beautiful patterns. Without the straight thread we
+should be unable to imitate point lace patterns, or, indeed, to execute
+any designs but those composed of circles, ovals, &c. To use this
+straight thread 2 shuttles are required; they should be of different
+colours. Sometimes one end of thread is left attached to the reel
+instead of using the second shuttle. In commencing a loop the straight
+thread is held between the second and third fingers of the left hand,
+about 2 or 3 inches from the work; the other shuttle is held as usual in
+the right hand, and the stitches and purls worked with it upon the
+foundation of the straight thread of the second shuttle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+TATTING.
+
+
+1.--_Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting._
+
+[Illustration: I.--Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting.]
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 80, or
+tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3; a small shuttle.
+
+This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton as follows:--1st
+circle: 2 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+2nd circle: 3 double, join it to the last purl of the 1st circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton up.
+
+3rd circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 2nd circle, 1
+double, join it to the 7th purl of the 2nd circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8
+times, 2 double, draw the cotton up.
+
+4th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 3rd circle, 3 double,
+1 purl, 1 double 7 times, 1 double, draw the cotton up.
+
+5th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 4th circle, 2 double,
+1 purl, 1 double 3 times, draw up the cotton.
+
+6th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 5th circle, 1
+double, join it to the 5th purl of the preceding circle, 1 double, 1
+purl 6 times, 1 double, join it to the first purl of the 1st circle, 2
+double, draw up the cotton. This completes the star pattern in centre of
+pine.
+
+1st circle of pine: 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 8 times, 2 double, draw
+up the cotton.
+
+2nd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 1st circle, 1 double,
+join it to the 7th purl of 1st circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 3
+double, draw up the cotton and join it to the 3rd purl of centre star.
+
+3rd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 2nd circle, 1 double, 1
+purl 8 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it on to the centre
+purl of 2nd circle in star.
+
+4th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 3rd circle, 1 double, 1
+purl 5 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it
+to the 5th purl of 2nd centre circle in star.
+
+5th circle: 2 double, join the cotton to the last purl of 4th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton, repeat the 5th
+circle twice more, then join the cotton to the centre purl of 4th circle
+in star.
+
+8th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 7th circle, 1 purl,1
+double 5 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the centre
+purl of 5th circle in star.
+
+9th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 8th circle, 1 double, 1
+purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. Repeat the 9th circle 3
+times.
+
+13th circle: 3 double, join the cotton to the last purl of the 12th
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 4 double, draw up the cotton, turn the
+work downwards, and work the
+
+14th circle: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, join it to the 1st purl of the
+1st circle of pine, 1 double, join it to the 2nd purl of first pine
+circle,1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+15th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 13th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+16th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 15th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 4 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+17th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 16th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
+
+18th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 17th circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 8 times, 1 double, draw up the cotton, and repeat from
+commencement until the collar is the required size. The upper part of
+the pines is filled in with lace stitches, as clearly shown in our
+illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+2.--_Tatted Insertion._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30, or
+Boar's Head crochet cotton No. 12; tatting pin No. 2; large shuttle.
+
+[Illustration: 2.--Tatted Insertion.]
+
+This insertion should be worked with coarse cotton. 5 double *, 1 purl,
+2 double, repeat from * 4 times, 1 purl, 5 double, draw up the cotton,
+turn the pattern downward, and work another circle the same as that
+above described, leaving one-sixth of an inch of cotton between each
+circle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+3.--_Lace Edging in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10, or
+tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a finer
+edging, No. 18.
+
+1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
+double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1
+purl, 10 double; draw up.
+
+Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
+hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
+
+[Illustration: 3.--Lace Edging in Tatting.]
+
+2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl in 1st oval, 10 double; draw up.
+
+The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that the
+next oval be close to the last.
+
+Crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 7 chain, 1 double into
+the purl in double thread. Repeat.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+4.--_Lace Edging in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10, or
+tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For a finer
+edging, No. 18.
+
+[Illustration: 4.--Lace Edging in Tatting.]
+
+1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
+double thread is required, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1
+purl, 10 double stitches, draw up.
+
+2nd oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, 1 purl, 10 double; draw
+up.
+
+Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
+hand, work 12 double, 1 purl, 4 double; then join the shuttle-thread to
+the purl in 2nd oval, by drawing it through with a pin. Then do another
+similar chain of stitches with the double thread, viz., 4 double, 1
+purl, 12 double.
+
+3rd oval: 10 double, join to the purl in 2nd oval--the same as that to
+which the shuttle-thread has been fastened--10 double; draw up.
+
+4th oval: Close to last oval, work 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval,
+10 double, draw up.
+
+The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care that the
+next oval be close to the last. Crochet a heading with the same cotton,
+working 4 chain, 1 double into the purl of double thread, 6 chain, 1
+double into the next purl. Repeat.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+5.--_Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or
+crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2; a bone shuttle.
+
+[Illustration: 5.--Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging.]
+
+Work * 4 double stitches (that is, 4 times following 1 purled stitch and
+1 plain), 1 purl, four times following 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 4
+double stitches, draw up the cotton so as to form an oval, and for the
+smaller oval, work 9 double stitches, but leave, before beginning the
+first double stitch, the space of one-sixth of an inch between this oval
+and the preceding; repeat from *, leaving the same space between each
+oval; join together the larger ovals by the purl.
+
+For the crochet edging, work the 1st row in the following manner:--
+
+1 double (followed by 6 chain) in each of the smaller ovals. The 2nd and
+3rd rows are composed of short treble stitches, placed one above the
+other, and divided by one chain. While working the short treble stitches
+of the 3rd row form the small purl thus:--
+
+* 1 short treble in the first short treble of preceding row, let the
+loop slip off from the crochet needle, insert the needle in the under
+stitch, from which comes the loop now made into a purl, work 1 double in
+the first short treble of preceding row, 1 chain, under which miss 1
+stitch, and repeat from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+6.--_Border in Tatting with Crochet._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20, or
+tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2. For a coarser size use Boar's
+Head cotton No. 4, or tatting cotton No. 20.
+
+[Illustration: 6.--Border in Tatting with Crochet.]
+
+4 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 times following, 3 double stitches, 1 purl,
+4 double stitches, draw up the oval, but not quite tight, leave a space
+about one-sixth of an inch, leave a similar space between this oval and
+the next, work 3 double stitches, fasten them to the nearest purl of
+preceding oval, then work twice following 4 double stitches, 1 purl,
+then 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 3 double stitches, and draw up the oval
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+7.--_Tatted Insertion._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head crochet cotton No.
+18; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This strip of insertion is worked with crochet cotton, and consists of
+a row of circles, two of which are always joined together, and edged on
+either side with chain stitches. Work first * 2 double, 4 purl divided
+by 1 double, 1 double, 1 long purl about one-fifth of an inch long, 10
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 long purl, 4 times alternately 1 double, 1
+purl, then 2 double; join the stitches into a circle; work close to this
+a second circle, and knot the end of the cotton together with the cotton
+with which the first circle has been begun; repeat from *, but
+henceforward in the first of the two circles fasten the cotton on to the
+middle purl of the preceding circle, instead of working the middle purl.
+When the strip of insertion is sufficiently long, edge it on either side
+with a row of chain stitches, by working 1 double in 1 long purl and 5
+chain between.
+
+[Illustration: 7.--Tatted Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+8.--_Rosette in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This rosette is worked with two cottons, viz., 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain,
+5 double, 1 purl, 10 double, 1 purl, 1 plain; turn the work downwards,
+10 double, fastened on the last purl turned downwards; this forms one
+loop turned upwards; turn work downwards, 10 double, 1 purl, 5 double,
+fastened on first purl turned downwards; turn figure thus formed
+downwards; 4 double, 1 single, repeat 4 times more from *, joining the
+figures by means of the purl stitch; the ends of the cotton are knotted
+together.
+
+[Illustration: 8.--Rosette in Tatting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+9.--_Star in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 9.--Star in Tatting.]
+
+Fill the shuttle, and commencing a loop, work 1 double, then 1 purl and
+1 double 12 times, draw into a round; join the cotton to the 1st purl
+loop. 1st oval.--Commence a loop close to the joining, work 7 double,
+join to 1st purl of round, work 7 double and draw close; reverse the
+work. Join the thread from reel, and holding it out for a straight
+thread, commence the scallop:--
+
+5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, reverse the work. The 2nd oval same as
+first. Repeat oval and scallop alternately, until the star is completed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+10.--_Insertion worked in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 10.--Insertion worked in Tatting.]
+
+This strip of insertion is worked with two cottons. Work with the cotton
+in the left hand over that in the right hand. Both ends of cotton are
+fastened together at the beginning by a knot. First work one half of the
+insertion the long way in the following manner:--1 plain, 1 purl, 1
+plain (the purl must be very short); turn the purl downwards, 6 double,
+1 purl, * 6 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, which must all be turned upwards;
+then turn the work so that the upper edge is turned downwards; work 6
+double, fastened on to the last purl turned downwards (the fastening of
+the stitches is made with the thread in the right hand); a loop turned
+upwards is thus formed; turn the work downwards, draw the cotton in
+right hand underneath that in left hand, and work 6 double, 1 purl, 6
+double, all turned upwards; fasten these stitches on 1st purl turned
+downwards. In this pattern 1st of border pattern is thus completed;
+turn it downwards, 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, turn
+work downwards, 6 double, fastened on last purl of last pattern, turned
+up. Repeat from *. When the insertion is of sufficient length, work the
+other half in same manner, and fasten it on the 1st half by means of
+purl stitches between the 8 double stitches twice repeated.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+11.--_Tatted Insertion for Trimming Lingeries_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or
+crochet cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 11.--Tatted Insertion.]
+
+This insertion consists of 2 rows of three-branched patterns which lie
+opposite each other, and are joined by slanting rows of knots. A
+coloured silk ribbon is drawn through these rows which join the
+patterns. Each of the 3 branches of 1 pattern consists of 9 double, 1
+purl, 9 double, and must be worked close to another. When the 3rd branch
+is completed, fasten another piece of cotton on to the middle branch.
+Work 12 double over this 2nd piece of cotton, and then work without the
+2nd piece of cotton a 2nd three-branched pattern like the 1st.* Fasten
+the 2nd piece of cotton on to the middle branch of the just-finished
+pattern, work 12 double over it, then again a three-branched pattern;
+in this pattern as well as in the following ones, instead of working the
+purl of the 1st branch, fasten it on to the purl of the 3rd branch of
+the preceding three-branched pattern of the _same_ row, as can be seen
+in illustration. Repeat till the strip of insertion is sufficiently
+long.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+12.--_Circle in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 12.--Circle in Tatting.]
+
+Work first 8 ovals, each composed of 5 double stitches, 3 purl divided
+one from the other by 4 double stitches, 5 double stitches; these ovals
+are joined together by the purl at the sides, then the circle is
+tightened as much as possible, and the cotton with which you are working
+is twisted round the ends of cotton that have been cut: the cotton is
+then fastened off nearly underneath.
+
+Begin a fresh small oval, composed of 12 double stitches, which should
+be fastened to the preceding oval after 3 double stitches (to the purl
+in the centre of the first oval), then fasten it again to the purl which
+joins together the first and the second oval; leave a space of about
+one-fourth of an inch, and work an oval composed of 4 double stitches, 5
+purl, followed each by 2 double stitches, 4 double stitches. A very
+little farther off make a very small oval, composed of 8 double
+stitches, which after the four first double stitches is joined to the
+centre purl of the second oval, leaving the same space between as
+before, make another oval of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, each followed by
+2 double stitches, 4 double stitches; but the first purl is _missed_,
+because at this place the oval is joined to the fifth purl of the
+corresponding oval; once more leave a space of one-fourth of an inch,
+and repeat. At the end of the round the two ends of cotton are tied
+tightly together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+13.--_Tatted Border with Beads_.
+
+Materials: Black purse silk, or, for white trimming, Messrs. Walter
+Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 2; tatting-pin No. 3; 3 hanks of
+beads No. 4 to the yard of border.
+
+[Illustration: 13.--Tatted Border with Beads.]
+
+This border, edged with beads No. 4, is worked in middling-size purse
+silk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk. Before
+beginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take the place of
+purl stitches, and which are slipped in between two double stitches.
+When the row of stitches is of the length required, form the trefoil
+leaves, and sew a few beads over the places where they are joined. These
+trefoil leaves are made separately, and then sewn together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+14.--_Insertion in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
+tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18 or
+20.
+
+[Illustration: 14.--Insertion in Tatting.]
+
+1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
+double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1
+purl, 10 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: Putting the thread attached to
+the reel round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
+
+2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up.
+Repeat till the length required is worked, then cut off.
+
+For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the insertion,
+the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence by working--
+
+1st oval: 10 double, join to the purl which connects the first and
+second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Double
+thread: 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.
+
+2nd oval: 10 double, join to the same purl as last--namely, the one
+connecting the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10
+double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two next ovals to the purl which
+connects the two next in the piece already worked, and so on.
+
+Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl of
+double thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only, this makes a
+pretty wide edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+15.--_Border in Tatting and Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, and
+crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 15.--Border in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops and
+treble stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as follows: Make a
+circle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8 double. This circle is
+repeated at a distance of about three-fourths of an inch, only instead
+of the 1st purl each following circle must be fastened on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which must
+be finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double
+stitches over the thread which joins the circles. The number of stitches
+depends on the length and size of the cotton; work double stitches round
+the circles at the place where both ends meet. The outer row consists of
+treble stitches, which are worked with 1 chain stitch between, missing 1
+stitch under each chain. The scallops consist of the two following
+rows:--1 double, with which the last and first purl of 2 circles are
+joined, 4 chain; in each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2
+double stitches.
+
+2nd row: 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1 double, 3 long double,
+1 double.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+16 _and_ 17.--_Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting_.
+
+[Illustration: 16.--Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting.]
+
+This veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim of the
+bonnet. It is tied at the back under the chignon. The veil is of black
+silk net. The flowrets are tatted with black purse silk, and worked in
+applique over the tulle. The veil is edged round with a tatted lace made
+with the same silk. For the patterns and lace and instructions, see
+Nos. 18 and 19. No. 16 shows the way in which the veil is worn upon the
+bonnet, and No. 17 shows its shape when stretched out.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+18 _and_ 19.--_Patterns in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 120 for a
+white veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 17.--Shape of Veil.]
+
+[Illustration: 18.--Tatting Pattern for Veil (16).]
+
+[Illustration: 19--Tatting Pattern for Veil (16).]
+
+The patterns Nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil No. 16.
+They are sewn upon the net at regular distances.
+
+For working the pattern No. 18, make with black silk or white cotton 6
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl, then join the
+stitch into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next purl. Then 1 spot
+or Josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain stitches, carry the shuttle
+downwards through the loop, and draw the stitches close together; repeat
+3 times more from *. Fasten the silk on to the next purl, and work a
+circle as follows:--8 times 2 double, divided by 1 purl; fasten the silk
+on to the next purl, work again 1 spot, after which the silk is
+fastened, then work 2 more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they are
+fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1st
+purl. Fasten off the silk after the last circle.
+
+For No. 19 work 25 double, divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a
+circle, knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together, cut off
+the ends at a short distance. Then work a smaller circle, consisting of
+8 double, divided by 1 purl; at the place of the 1st purl fasten the
+cotton at a short distance on to the 2nd purl of the large circle. The
+ends of this circle are knotted together and cut off in the same way.
+Then work a circle consisting of 11 double, fasten the silk on to the
+20th purl of the large circle, work 5 double, and join the stitches into
+a circle. Then take the ends of the 3 circles, and work close fine
+stitches with silk round them, so as to form the stem. The completed
+pattern is sewn upon the net.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+20 _and_ 21.--_Diamond Pattern and Circle in Tatting, for Trimming Linen
+Collars, Cuffs, &c_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No 30;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+20.--DIAMOND PATTERN.--Work, not far one from the other, four leaves,
+each composed of 5 double stitches, 7 rather long purl divided one from
+the other by 2 double stitches, 5 double stitches. Instead of making the
+1st purl in each of the 3 next leaves, fasten the cotton to the last
+leaf of preceding leaf. Fasten off and cut the cotton; begin a fresh
+circle by 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more
+double stitches; fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the four
+leaves, and work a very small circle thus:--2 double stitches, fasten
+the cotton to the last purl of the first circle, 3 double stitches, 1
+purl, 2 double stitches; fasten the cotton * to the 6th purl of the
+leaf; work a larger circle thus:--2 double stitches fastened to the purl
+of the small circle, 2 double stitches, 4 purl divided by 2 double
+stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the
+second purl of the second leaf; work another small circle similar to
+that above-described; fasten the cotton to the third purl of the second
+leaf, then to the fourth purl of the same leaf, and repeat from * three
+times more, always fastening the first purl of the first circle you are
+working (each time you repeat the pattern) to the purl of the last small
+circle last worked; fasten off and cut the cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 20.--Diamond in Tatting.]
+
+[Illustration: 21.--Circle in Tatting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+21.--CIRCLE.--Begin it in the centre by working a circle of 8 purl,
+rather long, divided one from the other by 2 double stitches. After you
+have fastened off and cut the cotton, work * one very small circle
+composed of 3 double stitches, 1 long purl, 3 double stitches; fasten
+the cotton not far off to the first purl of the circle, and repeat from
+* 7 times more, at regular distances. Fasten off and cut the cotton, and
+begin * a fresh circle of 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided each by 2
+double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl
+of the very small circle, and work, not far off, a circle of 2 double
+stitches, 2 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches;
+fasten the cotton to the purl of the next small circle, and repeat from
+* 7 times more. Instead of making the first purl of the next large
+circle, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the small circle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+22.--_Border in Tatting and Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 22.--Border in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+Begin this border with one of the smaller circles consisting of * 3
+double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; work a large circle at a
+short distance, 5 double, 4 times 1 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double;
+close to this circle another as follows:--5 double, fastened on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 5 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1
+purl, 5 double; a third circle as follows:--5 double fastened on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 3 times 2 double divided by 1 purl,
+1 purl, 5 double; the cotton is fastened a short distance further on to
+the second purl of the first worked small circle, which must be turned
+downwards; then turn the work so that the three circles which are joined
+together are turned downwards. Work another small circle as follows at
+the distance of two-fifths of an inch:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double,
+leave again an interval of about two-fifths of an inch, and repeat from
+* till the lace is long enough; but in working the following figures,
+consisting of three circles, the 1st circle must be fastened on to the
+last purl of the 3rd circle at the place of the 1st purl. Complete the
+tatting with the 2 following rows of crochet:--* 1 slip stitch in the
+purl of one of the small circles turned upwards, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch
+in the next purl, 4 chain; repeat from *. In the following row work 1
+double in every stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+23.--_Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 23.--Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch.]
+
+This insertion forms a very pretty standing-up collar when worked with
+fine cotton and a coloured ribbon drawn through. It consists of 2 rows
+of 3 branched figures turned opposite one another, which are worked
+separately and then joined into a row. Work 9 times as follows:--2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, * draw into a circle and * work at a short
+distance a 2nd circle as follows:--2 double fastened on to the last purl
+of the 1st circle, 8 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat once more
+from *, knot together the two ends of the cotton, and fasten them on the
+wrong side. One figure is thus completed; each following figure is
+fastened on to the preceding one on the middle purl of a circle (see
+illustration). When a sufficient number of such figures have been
+worked, work a 2nd row of them in the same manner, and fasten from
+illustration each middle circle of one figure on to the corresponding
+circle of the 1st row. The circles filled with lace stitch are worked
+when the 2 rows are completed from illustration in the empty places
+between 4 patterns; work first 3 double, fasten them on to a purl on the
+side of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double, fasten them on to a purl of
+the next leaf, repeat 5 times more from *, work 3 double, join the
+stitches into a circle, but not too close, so that the purls keep their
+natural position; cut off the cotton, and fasten the two ends on the
+wrong side. The lace stitch inside of these circles is worked with fine
+crochet cotton; the pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+24.--_Insertion in Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+Begin by working separately a sufficient number of small rosettes, each
+composed of six ovals of double stitches and purl. These ovals are
+worked first in a straight row, then they are joined into a circle and
+united in the centre by button-hole stitches. The rosettes are joined
+together with fine cotton. The crochet border is then worked on either
+side in chain stitches and treble crochet, as seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 24.--Insertion in Tatting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+25.--_Centre of a Tatted Couvrette_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20, or
+crochet cotton No. 1; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+This illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full size,
+and measuring 12 inches across. Separate rosettes like the pattern may
+be joined together with smaller ones, and form a very pretty couvrette.
+The pattern is worked in rounds. Begin the rosette with a circle,
+consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4
+double. Take up another shuttle, and work over the cotton on it, fasten
+the end on the last double of the circle and work over it, beginning
+close to the circle, 6 plain, 1 circle like the 1st worked with the 1st
+shuttle, and which is fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at the
+place of the 1st purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately till
+you have 7 circles divided by 6 plain stitches. Draw up very tightly the
+cotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette, which is
+closed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of the first and
+last circle. Both the ends of the cotton over which you have worked are
+knotted together. For the 2nd round, fasten the cotton on one shuttle on
+the middle purl of a circle, work a circle like those of the 1st round,
+take up the 2nd shuttle, and work on exactly as in the 1st round, only
+work 8 plain between the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. The
+2nd round consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must be
+fastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of the
+preceding round. The 3rd and following rounds are worked in the same
+manner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the couvrette
+quite flat. In the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles. Fasten the
+cotton well after each round.
+
+[Illustration: 25.--Centre of a Tatted Couvrette.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+26.--_Tatted Lace_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+
+[Illustration: 26.--Tatted Lace.]
+
+This very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they were
+slightly gathered. It must be worked with tatting cotton. Each scallop
+consists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5 purled
+stitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the 1st and
+last stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd similar
+scallop at a short distance from the 1st. But in the following scallops
+fasten each to the last purl of the preceding scallop instead of working
+the 1st purl.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+27.--_Tatted Lace_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 or 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 27.--Tatted Lace.]
+
+This pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. Work with 2
+threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in the
+right hand. Work first the outer scallops of the lace
+
+Fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided by 1
+purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards, fasten the
+cotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back over the same
+row, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you work, 9 double
+divided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which you work on the next
+purl of the 1st row after every double stitch. This forms 1 scallop. *
+Turn the work downwards (that is, the purl stitch must be turned
+downwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1 purled stitch: this is the
+straight row between 2 outer scallops of the lace. Then work a scallop
+like the preceding one, fastening it from illustration after the first
+row on the middle one of the 9 outer purl of the preceding scallop, with
+the cotton over which you work; repeat from * till the lace is long
+enough, and fasten the cotton. Knot both ends together again, fasten the
+cotton over which you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make
+9 double, 1 short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the row
+is turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2
+middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing the
+cotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as to form a
+loop, draw the cotton over which you work through this loop and draw up
+the latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on to
+the short purl worked after 9 double, turn the work so that the outer
+scallops of the lace are turned downwards, 10 double, fasten the cotton
+over which you work on the first purl of the next scallop, repeat from
+*, and fasten the cotton. After having fastened both ends together
+again, turn the work the right side upwards and the outer scallops
+upwards also, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl
+which is under the first loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2
+double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the purl under the
+next loop, and repeat from * till the lace is completed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+28.--_Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s French embroidery
+cotton No. 60; square netting.
+
+[Illustration: 28.--Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting]
+
+The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted grounding over a
+mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The collar is ornamented
+round the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work a straight strip of
+netting for the grounding; begin with 2 stitches, work 18 rows backwards
+and forwards, increasing 1 at the end of each row, so that the last row
+has 19 holes; work 1 row without increasing; then continue to work with
+the same number of stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and
+decreasing 1 at the end of the other. When the strip is sufficiently
+long, work 1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form
+the side by making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each,
+cast off the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on
+the needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick
+cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning is
+completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6
+double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6 double,
+draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving one-fifth of an inch
+between the first and last stitch; work a second scallop at a short
+distance from the first, and so on; every scallop is fastened on to the
+preceding one after the first 3 double stitches. Work a row of double
+overcast stitch between the darned netting and the tatted lace; work
+this row over the cotton tracing, marking the outline of the collar on
+the grounding and over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work also
+a row of double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a
+little if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close to the
+row of overcast stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+29.--_Mignardise and Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; fine
+mignardise braid.
+
+[Illustration: 29.--Mignardise and Tatting.]
+
+Patterns formed of mignardise and tatting are of quite new style, and
+look very pretty. The insertion is easy to work by the following
+process:--Make first a circle, as follows: 1 plain stitch, 2 double, 1
+purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 plain; fasten the cotton on to one
+side of the mignardise, at the distance of about five-eighths of an
+inch, by taking 2 loops of it together; work a second circle at a short
+distance from the first, and so on. When the strip of insertion is
+sufficiently long, work in the same manner on the other side of the
+mignardise. This kind of work is destined to become very popular, and
+nothing can be more light and graceful than the union of mignardise and
+tatting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+30.--_Linen Bag for Cotton_.
+
+Materials: Fine linen, 6 inches square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+tatting cotton No. 40.
+
+[Illustration: 30.--Linen Bag for Cotton.]
+
+The bag seen in illustration No. 30 is meant to keep the cotton for
+working a couvrette; it consists of a round piece, measuring 6 inches
+across, which is hemmed all round, and trimmed with a tatted lace. It is
+drawn together at top.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+31.--_Tatting Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.
+
+The insertion shown in illustration No. 31 is composed in two similar
+halves. Begin the first in the following way:--10 double, 1 purl, 3
+double, 1 purl, 10 double, join the stitches into a circle, and work a
+second similar circle at a distance of one-third of an inch; instead of
+the 1st purl, draw the cotton through the 2nd purl of the first-worked
+circle; leave an interval of one-eighth of an inch, and repeat the two
+rounds till the insertion is sufficiently long. Then tat round the
+pieces of cotton which join the two rounds, work round the longest 10
+double, and round the shortest 4 double, inserting the shuttle
+alternately once upwards and once downwards, but for the rest proceeding
+as in the common button-hole stitch. When the first half is completed,
+work the second in the same way, and fasten it on to the first with the
+purl.
+
+[Illustration: 31.--Tatting Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+32.--_Tatting Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.
+
+[Illustration: 32.--Tatting Insertion.]
+
+The pretty effect of the insertion shown in illustration No. 32 is
+obtained by means of longer and shorter purl. Work as follows:--Join 9
+double into a circle, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double *.
+After an interval of five-eighths of an inch, begin the large figure of
+the pattern: 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, draw the cotton through
+the last purl of the small circle, 2 double, drawn through the 1st purl
+of the same circle, 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, 1 long purl, 2
+double, 1 small purl, 2 double, repeat 6 times more from *, and draw up.
+After an interval of five-eighths of an inch comes another small circle:
+4 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the large figure, 3
+double, draw the cotton through the next long purl of the same figure, 2
+double, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double. Repeat the pattern
+for the length of insertion required. The threads which join the small
+circles are worked over with 7 double in the manner described above,
+only the cotton at the principal figure must be left loose the width of
+a straw, so as to imitate a long purl. Complete the insertion from
+illustration by tatting round the small circles of 16 double on the
+other side (but in the contrary direction), form no purl, but draw the
+cotton through the long purl of the large figure; the threads which join
+the 2 circles are likewise drawn through the middle long purl of the
+large figure; this thread is then tatted over with 7 double, like the
+opposite outer edge.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+33.--_Tatted Square or Diamond_.
+
+Materials: If for couvrettes, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting
+cotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 4; tatting-pin No. 3. For d'oyleys,
+tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2. For headdresses, tatting
+cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+The square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked in 3
+rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with purl. Each
+pattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and each branch
+consists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4 branches of one
+pattern are completed, cut off the cotton, and fasten both ends
+together so as to form a small circle in the centre. Then work a second
+pattern, which is fastened on to the first and second branches of the
+first pattern, instead of working the purl stitch; work a third pattern,
+which is fastened in the same manner on to the second pattern. Then work
+2 more rows exactly the same as can be seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 33.--Tatted Square.]
+
+*For the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first purl of
+the first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double,
+draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton again on to the same purl
+of the first pattern *, and work the following scallop at a short
+distance:--4 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle,
+10 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitch, leaving an
+interval of two-fifths of an inch between the first and the last; fasten
+the cotton on to the next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twice
+more from *, and continue to repeat from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+34.--_Tatted Rosette_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or
+crochet cotton No. 60.
+
+[Illustration: 34.--Tatted Rosette.]
+
+This rosette is very pretty for trimming _lingeries_; it is worked with
+very fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the centre and work one
+circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 1 purled stitch.
+Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and work the 2nd round: 1 small
+circle, consisting of 6 double divided by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton on
+to the next purl of the middle circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round:
+Fasten the cotton on the middle purl of the first circle of the
+preceding round, * work at a short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl,
+join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance
+on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and
+repeat in rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+35.--_Rosette in Tatting_.
+
+[Illustration: 35.--Rosette in Tatting.]
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8 times
+alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle
+and fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work over the cotton on
+this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton together * and work 5 plain,
+fasten the cotton over which you work on a purl of the circle which is
+completed, and which must be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7
+times more from *, and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of the
+shuttles the small circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a
+purl of the second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1
+purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second
+round, work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the
+same distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton
+neatly.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+36.--_Diamond in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 36.--Diamond in Tatting.]
+
+This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &c., when worked
+with fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns separately, as
+follows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 6 double, join the
+stitches into a circle, work close to this circle a second one
+consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle, 4
+double, 2 purl divided by 4 double, 6 double; then a 3rd circle
+consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding
+circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3 double, 7 double. Take a second
+shuttle, fasten the cotton on the end of the cotton of the 1st circle,
+throw the cotton of the 1st shuttle over the fingers of the left hand,
+and work with this cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the
+right hand. Work 5 double, and then one circle as follows with the
+cotton in the left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the
+3rd of the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5
+double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the cotton
+on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double, 5 double,
+then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 4
+double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on 1st purl of the
+circle worked at the beginning, 8 double; then again with two shuttles 5
+double. Fasten the cotton on the piece of cotton before the 5 double
+worked with two shuttles, so that the stitches worked over two shuttles
+form a circle, and cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns have
+been worked, work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4
+leaves touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3
+double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf is
+fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl. Then work
+first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with which the corner
+patterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl of one corner
+pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on the corresponding
+purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1 purl, 7 double, join
+the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton on to the same purl to
+which the cotton has already been fastened, carry the latter on to the
+next purl of the same corner pattern, fasten it, then work three more
+circles like the first, which are fastened on to each preceding circle,
+at the place of the first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl
+of the centre pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side
+of the same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite
+direction are worked in the same manner. When the square is completed,
+draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on to the other
+side of the square along the cotton which joins the circles together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+37.--_Tatting for Cap Crown_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
+tatting-pin No. 1.
+
+[Illustration: 37.--Tatting for Cap Crown.]
+
+This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one
+described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &c. The size
+of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the pattern. The
+pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It consists of
+eight-branched rosettes joined together with small circles. Each rosette
+is worked as follows: Work 8 loops or branches close to each other,
+consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; fasten both ends of the
+cotton together, and cut them off. Each of the small circles which joins
+the rosettes together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double.
+It is easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined
+together by means of the purl stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+38 _and_ 39.--_Cap in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100
+tatting-pin No. 1.
+
+[Illustration: 38.--Cap in Tatting.]
+
+This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged all
+round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also. The cap
+is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue velvet. A narrow
+velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight open-work edge of the lace,
+as can be seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 39--Border for Cap No. 38.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 39.--Border for Cap.--The upper part of the border consists of 4
+rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an inch from
+each other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3 double, 3 purl
+divided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3 rows each circle is
+fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2 circles in the 1st row, instead
+of working the middle purl, the cotton between 2 circles in the last row
+must only be two-fifths of an inch long. Then work a certain number of
+six-branched rosettes, each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9
+double. Each rosette is fastened on to every other circle of the
+
+1st row, as can be seen in illustration. The border is completed as
+follows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch
+fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain, 6
+purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the lace
+so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on to the
+purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double, 7 purl
+divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the purl of the
+next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double;
+fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat once more from *, work 1
+double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, and repeat from * to the
+end of the lace.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+40.--_Lace in Tatting and Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60.
+
+[Illustration: 40.--Lace in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of the
+tatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the circles must
+be drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4 double, 8 purl
+divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle a second one; 5
+double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 8 times 2
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl
+
+5 double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first, but
+instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of the
+preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and repeat from
+* till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is worked in crochet.
+Take the fine crochet cotton and work the straight row at the top to
+join the patterns together. Crochet 1 double in the 3 first and last
+purl of the first and last circle of one pattern, then a sufficient
+number of double stitches under the piece of cotton which joins 2
+circles. At the place where the circles are drawn together, join the two
+pieces of cotton (the beginning and the end) in such a manner that the
+top of the lace forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd row
+consists of 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble.
+Then work on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches
+divided by chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of
+the circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st
+circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble,
+3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st treble only
+so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd treble is
+completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain, 5 treble
+divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following purl, which are
+cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2 treble divided by 3
+chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain, 1 long treble with which
+you must join the last purl and the first one of the next pattern, 1
+chain; repeat from *. The next row consists of small scallops worked
+round the chain stitch scallops of the preceding row; work in each 1
+double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1 double in the first and last chain stitch
+of every pattern.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+41.--_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet
+cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 41.--Insertion in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+Begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. Work with the cotton
+on one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the following
+manner:--Knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double divided
+by a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st and 3rd purl
+must be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one two-fifths of an inch;
+4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1 purl two-fifths of an inch
+long; repeat from * till the strip of insertion is sufficiently long.
+Then work a similar row of tatting, and join the two rows before working
+the 1 long purl, by fastening the cotton on the corresponding long purl
+of the 1st row, so that the 2 rows are joined closely together, and the
+purl stitches of either are turned outwards. At the top and bottom of
+the tatting work the 3 following rows of crochet:--* 1 double in the
+middle one of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3
+following long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd
+row. 8 double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of the
+preceding row under 3 chain. The 3rd row consists of treble stitches in
+every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Lastly, the leaves are
+worked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long purl of a
+pattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross stitches
+between the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine cotton.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+42.--_Purse in Tatting and Beads_.
+
+Materials: Grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glace silk; a steel
+clasp with chain.
+
+This purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. The beads are
+threaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over another piece of
+the same. Begin each of the second halves of the purse with the circle
+in the centre, which consists of 1 purled stitch, 1 purl (all the purl
+of this circle are three-tenths of an inch long, and are covered with
+six beads, which must be drawn up close together before working the
+purl), 12 double divided by 1 purl. Join the stitches into a circle by
+knotting together the two ends of the silk.
+
+2nd round: Begin again and work one of the small circles; * 2 double,
+draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl without beads, 2
+double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten the silk on the purl of the
+middle circle, so as to let it come between the 3rd and 4th bead of the
+6 beads on that purl; 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short
+purl, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, join the stitches into a
+circle, draw up 2 beads; work a larger circle without fastening the silk
+belonging to the smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1
+purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl,
+3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1
+bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large circle
+and repeat from *. Each following small circle must be fastened on the
+next purl of the circle which forms the centre; they are also fastened
+on to each other, instead of working the 1st purl, by fastening the
+piece of silk over which you work on the preceding small circle; in the
+larger circles, instead of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the piece
+of silk must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, so
+that it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. At the end of the round,
+the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off.
+
+[Illustration: 42.--Purse in Tatting and Beads.]
+
+3rd round: * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 3
+double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the middle purl of the
+1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1
+double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; join
+the stitches into a circle, and work at a short distance a 2nd circle; 3
+double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fastened on the last purl of the
+just-finished circle of this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1
+double fastened on the purl of the preceding round which is between 2
+circles; the loop must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead after
+each; 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1
+double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *, then
+fasten the ends.
+
+When two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet glace
+silk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew on the clasp. A
+round of large circles edges the purse round the outside. The 1st of
+these circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl
+with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double. Work a 2nd circle
+at a short distance from the 1st: * 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1
+double fastened on the purl of the 1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1
+bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after
+each, 1 double; leave a short interval, and repeat from * till a
+sufficient number of circles have been made. The last purl is not worked
+in the last circle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+43.--_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet
+cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 43.--Insertion in Tatting and Crochet.]
+
+This pattern is composed of leaves and flowers. Each of the six leaves
+forming a circle is composed of 4 double, 2 purl, separated by 2 double,
+4 double (the first and last purl of each leaf must be joined in the
+manner before explained), and the centre of each circle forms a wheel.
+The flower has four leaves: each leaf consists of 6 double, II purl,
+separated each by 1 double, and again 6 double; each leaf is filled up
+with button-hole stitches in fine cotton. To form the circle in the
+centre of this flower, turn several times the thread which joins the
+leaves, and work button-hole stitches round it. Join the flowers and the
+circles by knotting them together, or by making 1 purl longer than the
+others, and by drawing the next figure through. The crochet border on
+each side of the tatting consists of six rows, which are plainly seen in
+the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+44.--_Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20 and 40.
+
+[Illustration: 44.--Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch.]
+
+This mixture of tatting and lace stitch is a style of work not only
+entirely new, but very pretty and effective when cotton of very
+different sizes is used. The tatting is begun with a row of circles
+two-thirds of an inch distant from each other; each circle consists of
+13 stitches of plain tatting. Fasten a 2nd row to the 1st, and a 3rd to
+the 2nd, by working a circle of 13 stitches of plain tatting at
+one-third of an inch distance, * then at the same distance; fasten the
+cotton on the next circle of the preceding row, work a circle at the
+same distance again, and repeat from *. The cotton is fastened on the
+circles by drawing it through the circle with a crochet-needle, so as to
+form a loop, and then drawing it out of the loop. Take care to keep the
+distance between 2 circles always the same. Between the circles of the
+3rd row draw another piece of cotton, by fastening the cotton on each
+circle of the 3rd row at distances of two-thirds of an inch. Then work
+the lower edge of the border in the following way:--1 small spot called
+a _Josephine knot_ (for which work 5 stitches of plain tatting, draw the
+cotton downwards through the loop which fastens the stitches, and draw
+up the whole), fasten the cotton between the next two circles of the 3rd
+row, * and a little further make a spot consisting of 8 stitches of
+single tatting, close to this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purl
+divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plain
+tatting, turn the 2 last spots so as to make their round sides come
+opposite one another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 next
+circles of the 3rd row. Then a little further off work 1 small spot (5
+stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double
+fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl
+divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plain
+stitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of the
+3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to the
+corresponding purl of the preceding one. On the other long side, the
+border is completed by 2 rows of crochet. The 1st row is formed by
+working 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2 circles of the 1st
+row, with 5 chain stitches between.
+
+2nd row: 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch after every
+treble. The strip of insertion is then tacked on a piece of cardboard or
+oil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked between the circles, as is
+seen in illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+45.--_Tatted Rosette._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30 for
+large rosette, No. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie--cravats, caps,
+handkerchiefs, &c. The raised pattern in the centre consists of 4
+rounds, consisting of 5 circles each, which are sewn together and then
+fastened on the rosette. The 5 circles of each round must be worked
+close to each other: after working the last circle of each round, knot
+the beginning and end of the cotton together. Each circle of the
+smallest round has 9 double, the circles of the next round each 15, the
+circles of the following one 21, and the circles of the last and largest
+round 27 double stitches. When these circles have been sewn on one to
+another as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4 double,
+1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1 double. The purls
+of this circle are fastened on to the circles of the next round of the
+rosette. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and
+work a circle as follows:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double,
+1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Repeat 9 times
+more from *, but now, instead of working the 1st purl of every circle,
+fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then fasten the
+cotton. For the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds,
+fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding
+round, and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1
+
+[Illustration: 45.--Tatted Rosette.]
+
+purl, then 4 double. Then fasten a second thread on to the same purl on
+which the just completed circle has been fastened, and over which all
+the scallops are to be worked. Work over it 5 double, fastened on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5
+double. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle of
+the preceding round, and repeat from * till the round is completed; but
+in working these circles, instead of the first purl, fasten them on to
+the last purl of the preceding scallop. Lastly, the raised pattern is
+sewn on.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+46.--_Linen Bag for Tatting, &c._
+
+Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+30 or 40; tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 46.--Linen Bag for Tatting, &c.]
+
+This pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work from being
+soiled before it is completed. The bag is drawn together round the top.
+Its size depends upon what you wish to put into it. The original
+pattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3 inches wide; it is hemmed round the
+top, and trimmed with a narrow tatted lace, consisting of large and
+small circles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+47.--_Tatted Border._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 47.--Tatted Border.]
+
+Begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the following
+manner:--
+
+1st row: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double;
+draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat the circle at a very
+short distance, till the border is long enough; but instead of working
+the first purl of each circle, you must join the circle to the preceding
+one; the purl on the sides of the circle must therefore be longer than
+that in the middle.
+
+For the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left side with
+the cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the cotton in the
+right hand, which is also to be held between the thumb and forefinger of
+the left hand. Then work in the following way:--2 double, then 1 circle
+consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; to form this circle, let the
+cotton in the left-hand shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop round
+the left hand with the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. Then
+take up again the left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middle
+purl of the 1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through the
+purl like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand through
+this loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle purl of
+the next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1 circle joined on
+the middle purl of the following circle; repeat from *.
+
+The upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in the
+following manner:--
+
+1st row: * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st circle of the 1st row
+of tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding row, 1 purl (3
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of the preceding row
+under it; repeat from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+48.--_Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting._
+
+Materials for trimmings: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton
+No. 20; tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3. For couvrettes,
+crochet cotton No. 4.
+
+This rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty trimming
+for articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes; if used for
+the former, they must be worked with very fine cotton. The centre of the
+rosette is formed of an embroidered raised pattern worked in _point de
+minute_; round this centre there are small circles worked in button-hole
+stitch; the embroidery is worked with knitting cotton, the circles with
+crochet cotton. Before beginning the circles, make a circle consisting
+of a foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten the
+button-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain work
+1 double, then fasten the cotton. In the 2nd round of these circles
+fasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet circle. Work 1
+round of open-work treble stitch in the double stitch of the crochet
+circle, work in tatting the border of the rosette as follows in 1
+round:--* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fastened on to 1 chain stitch
+between 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1 purl, 2 double,; join these
+stitches into a circle; turn the work so that the wrong side lies
+upwards, and work a second larger circle at a short distance consisting
+of 4 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeat
+from *. The smaller circles must be fastened after every other treble
+stitch; the larger and smaller circles must be fastened above one
+another at the place of the 1st purl.
+
+[Illustration: 48.--Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+49--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 49.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.]
+
+The diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is commenced in
+the centre. For each of the four centre leaves work 6 double stitches, 6
+purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, then 6 more
+double stitches. Fasten off the cotton, cut it, and begin a fresh leaf
+by working 2 double stitches, 10 purl divided one from the other by 2
+double stitches, then 2 more double stitches. (This small leaf forms one
+of the corners of the diamond pattern.) Fasten the cotton to the fourth
+purl of one of the four centre leaves, and work another leaf similar to
+the preceding. Join this leaf by its two centre purl to the two last
+purl of the corner leaf (see illustration). After two more similar
+leaves, work one corner leaf, and continue the pattern in the same
+manner until you come back to the first corner leaf, then fasten off,
+and cut the cotton. Place the diamond pattern upon the point of the
+collar, and cut away the material under it; fold back the edges, sew
+them neatly, and cover them with the following crochet edging:--Make
+alternately 2 chain, 1 purl (the latter composed of 3 chain joined
+together by 1 slip stitch). It will be easy to work the circles in
+tatting from our illustration; they form an elegant border round the
+collar. We shall merely say that the centre circle is always worked
+separately, and that the cotton is fastened on afresh to work the eight
+outer leaves. The upper edge of this border is worked in crochet. It is
+composed of two rows--one formed of chain stitches, and a few slip
+stitches worked in the purl of the circles in tatting, the other worked
+in open treble crochet.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+50.--_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This cravat consists of a strip of cambric muslin 1 yard long, 6 inches
+wide, hemmed on both sides. The ends of the cravat are ornamented with
+patterns in tatting, worked with tatting cotton No. 100. A rosette in
+tatting is sewn on in the middle of the end of the cravat. The end of
+the cravat is pointed, lined on the wrong side with a strip of the same
+material as the cravat, and edged with a tatted lace. Begin the rosette
+in the centre with a circle worked in the following manner:--1 double, 1
+purl, * twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl,
+twice 4 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, * 3 double, 1 purl; repeat
+from * to * once more, 2 double. At the beginning of the 2nd round
+fasten the cotton on the 1st purl of the 1st round, and
+
+[Illustration: 50.--Cravat in Muslin and Tatting.]
+
+work as follows:--* 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl, 2 double,
+1 purl, 10 double; fasten the cotton on to the next purl, 1 circle like
+the preceding one, fastened on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of
+9 double, 1 purl, 9 double fastened on to the next purl, 2 circles
+consisting each of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; between the 2 fasten the
+cotton on to the next purl; 2 similar circles fastened also on to the
+next purl, 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, fastened
+on to the next circle; repeat once more from *, and fasten off the
+cotton. Fasten on the cotton afresh for the 3rd round, worked in the
+following manner:--* 1 circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double,
+1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl; 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6
+double; fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 1st purl of the
+2nd round, 1 circle worked as follows:--5 double fastened on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle of this round, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on
+to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the 2nd round; 6 similar circles,
+between each of which the cotton is to be fastened on to the nearest
+purl of a circle of the 2nd round; repeat once more from *, and knot the
+beginning and the end of the cotton together. When completed, the
+rosette is sewn on the material of the cravat with button-hole stitches,
+taking up one purl with each stitch; the muslin is cut away underneath
+the rosette; then work a round of knotted stitches underneath the
+button-hole stitch. For the lace, make a row of circles one-fifth of an
+inch distant from each other, consisting each of 6 double, 1 purl, 2
+double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 2 double, 1
+purl, 6 double, which are fastened together by the purl of each circle,
+and are sewn on the cravat over the cotton between the circles in
+overcast stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+51--_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 51.--Cravat in Muslin and Tatting.]
+
+The end of this cravat is formed by a long rosette or _medaillon_ in
+tatting. This rosette is likewise begun in the centre, and consists of 4
+rounds, the 2 first of which are worked like those of the rosette in
+illustration 50, with this difference only, that in the 2nd round each
+of the circles nearest to the top and to the bottom of the rosette
+consists of 8 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 3rd round: * 1
+circle, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fastened
+on to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the preceding round; 1 circle
+as follows:--5 double, the last of which is fastened on to the last purl
+of the preceding round, 4 double, 1 purl, twice 2 double divided by 1
+purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on the next purl of
+the preceding round; 8 more similar circles, between each of which the
+cotton is fastened on to the next purl of the preceding round; repeat
+from * once more, fasten the two ends of the cotton together. 4th round:
+* Fasten on the cotton afresh with a circle consisting of 7 double, 1
+purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4
+double, 1 purl, 7 double, fastened on to the middle purl of the 1st
+circle of the preceding round; a 2nd circle worked in the same way, only
+instead of working the last purl, fasten the cotton on to the last purl
+of the preceding circle, then on to the 1st circle of the preceding
+round; 10 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is
+fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, and
+then on to the 2nd purl of the larger circle at the bottom of the
+medallion; repeat once more from *. The pattern is sewn on the cravat
+with button-hole stitches, as can be seen in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+52.--_Border in Crochet and Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 26.
+
+This border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves, which
+are joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow
+
+[Illustration: 52.--Border in Crochet and Tatting.]
+
+border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the border
+forms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles is begun in
+the centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is formed by passing
+the thread over the back of the hand, and then passing the shuttle
+upwards between the forefinger and second finger, and drawing it up,
+then work a stitch of plain tatting; this completes the double stitch,
+and whenever so many double stitches are directed it means the 2
+stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9 times, join the stitch into a circle, work
+at a small distance * a smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl,
+divided each by 2 double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the
+purl of the first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each
+following circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle
+after 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the thread
+must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which forms the
+centre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the thread are
+knotted together. For the tatted border, make at short distances 1 loop
+with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having worked a sufficient number
+of such loops, wind another thread round the thread between the loops,
+turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. Now begin the
+crochet part with the leaves. Make for each of these a foundation chain
+of 12 stitches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch
+but one, 1 double in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following
+7 chain, 2 treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2
+treble in the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on the
+other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3
+double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leaf
+with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double in each stitch
+of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble stitch. In working this
+last round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up the
+purl stitch of the circle before casting off the corresponding double
+stitch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles
+and leaves with a row of chain stitches, on which a row of double is
+worked. Then comes the border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of
+chain stitches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of
+treble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely
+in chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the
+loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3
+chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1
+under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must be fastened
+on the border, as seen in illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+53.--_Diamond in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
+tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle.
+
+[Illustration: 53.--Diamond in Tatting.]
+
+1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a
+double thread is required, and commence by working 5 double stitches, 1
+purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left
+hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them tightly.
+
+2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1
+purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches tightly worked.
+
+3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, draw
+up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+4th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+5th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+6th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 7 single stitches.
+
+7th oval: 5 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1
+purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 7 single stitches.
+
+8th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1
+purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+9th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+10th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+11th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 12 single stitches.
+
+12th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to
+next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3 double, join to 1st purl
+of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up.
+
+Double thread: 7 single stitches.
+
+Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at the
+back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other.
+
+The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with lacework,
+using fine sewing-cotton.
+
+Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty trimming for
+the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed with single diamonds.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+54.--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100,
+tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord.
+
+This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very
+effective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working for
+each of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the
+other by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches. When the third
+leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton. Now take, instead of
+the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of extremely fine cord, over
+which work with the cotton from the reel the following row of
+stitches:--1 double stitch, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one
+of the three leaves, * 2 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the
+other by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the
+centre purl of the nearest leaf, 2 double stitches, 9 purl divided one
+from the other by 3 double stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to the
+same purl as before. Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut
+the cord and the cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each
+composed of 12 plain stitches placed quite close together (these form
+one of the corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from
+the other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is fastened
+to one purl of the row of
+
+[Illustration: 54.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.]
+
+stitches worked over the cord (see illustration). Cut away from the
+collar the piece of linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold
+in the edges and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up the
+space with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circle
+composed of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2
+double stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more and
+work over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle composed
+of 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other by 2 double
+stitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord again and work over
+it 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double
+stitches. Fasten the cotton to the third purl (reckoning from the last)
+of the second circle worked without cord; 3 double stitches fastened to
+the fourth purl of the row of stitches worked over the cord (see
+illustration), 2 double stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double
+stitches, 3 double stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3
+double stitches fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches,
+3 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten the
+cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the beginning), 4
+double stitches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of the border a
+crochet edging similar to that round the diamond pattern of collar No.
+49. For the point of the border, at the corner of the collar, see
+illustration No. 54.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+55.--_Tatted Collar_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100;
+tatting-pin No. 1.
+
+This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists of four
+branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles, fastened on to
+one another as seen in illustration. The four branched patterns are
+worked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, then 3 double, and join the knots into a circle. Work 3 similar
+leaves close to this 1st leaf, but instead of working the 1st purl,
+fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding leaf; besides this,
+instead of
+
+[Illustration: 55.--Tatted Collar.]
+
+working the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl
+of the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed, knot
+both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row of similar
+patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a branch of the
+preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle purl of the last
+branch (see illustration). Two rows of similar patterns are joined by
+the above-mentioned circles, consisting of 32 double stitches, by
+fastening these circles from illustration between four branched
+patterns. Begin each circle with 2 double stitches, fasten it on to the
+corresponding purl of the four-branched pattern, work again 2 double,
+fasten on to the next purl, and continue in the same manner till the
+circle is sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lace
+stitch. The collar is edged round the neck with close button-hole
+stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+56.--_Tatted Collar_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+This collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton in the
+following manner:--1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw the cotton
+into a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1 purl, 3 double,
+draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the first purl of the
+first circle; work two more circles the same as last. 2nd oval: 2
+double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to the third purl of the
+centre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 times, 2 double,
+1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5 small circles, as follow:--3
+double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, * 1 purl, 3 double, joining each
+circle to the purl of the 2nd oval. 3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times,
+joining the 3rd purl to the 2nd purl of the centre circle of the
+preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw
+the cotton up, and work 7 small circles, similar to the small circles
+described in 2nd oval.
+
+[Illustration: 56.--Tatted Collar.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+57.--_Circle in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 2.
+
+[Illustration: 57.--Circle in Tatting.]
+
+This circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty for
+ornamenting cravat-ends and different articles of lingerie. It is
+commenced in the centre with 2 double, 1 purl, repeated 8 times, draw
+the cotton into a ring, and work 8 small circles, as follow:--3 double,
+* 1 purl, 1 double, repeat from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up the
+cotton, and join it to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle.
+Large circle: 3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3
+double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle.
+The centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+58.--_Tatting Medallion for Trimming Lingeries, &c._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 for
+cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for petticoats;
+tatting-pin No. 2 or 3.
+
+
+This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars,
+pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &c., according to the size of the
+cotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of circles which
+incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the centre; begin with
+the smallest circle, which is at the top of the pattern; it consists of
+3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 3 double. Then
+work at a short distance another circle like the preceding one, only
+work 8 double instead of 7, and instead of working the first purl,
+fasten the circle on to the last purl of the preceding circle; all the
+other circles are fastened on to each other in the same manner. The next
+circle, worked again at a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4
+double; fasten it on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9
+double, 1 purl, 4 double. The following four circles are worked like the
+preceding one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead
+of 9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece of
+cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat longer
+between the larger circles. Then work a circle
+
+[Illustration: 58.--Tatting Medallion.]
+
+as follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double, 1
+purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14 double
+instead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten the cotton,
+15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two following
+circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double instead of 15.
+Then comes the largest circle of the round, which consists of 6 double,
+17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6 double. Work 11 circles more
+like the 2nd to 12th of those just described (the 13th circle forms the
+middle), only the order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round
+closes with the smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cotton
+together, so that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work round
+this row of circles another round, the circles of which must be of
+graduated sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on to
+the middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work
+one circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2 double,
+1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the
+next circle, &c. The remaining circles are worked in the same manner,
+only they must be increased and decreased in size gradually like the
+circles of the first round; this is done by increasing or decreasing the
+number of purl, instead of working the first purl of every following
+circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. When the
+round is completed, fasten both ends of the cotton together. In the
+centre of the oval pattern, fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated
+size, which are worked in one piece. For the smallest of these patterns
+work first three circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times
+alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be
+close to each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be
+fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton is
+then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the end of
+the same, then work close to them two small circles, consisting of 6
+double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between the beginning and
+the end of the third circle. The other five-branched patterns are worked
+in the same manner at intervals of about three-tenths of an inch; but
+the separate circles of each pattern must become gradually larger. In
+the largest pattern the three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl,
+8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles
+consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other
+patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins these
+last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and thread, so as
+to imitate double stitches. The five-branched patterns are then fastened
+in the oval pattern; they must overlap each other to half way, as seen
+in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+59.--_Tatted Diamond_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or 80
+if required finer; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 59--Tatted Diamond.]
+
+This pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with fine
+tatting cotton in the following manner:--Work a * circle consisting of 6
+double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards and work at a short
+distance another circle consisting of 5 double, 4 purl divided by 2
+double, 5 double; at a similar distance a circle of 5 double fastened on
+to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2
+double, 5 double; then again a circle consisting of 5 double fastened on
+to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2
+double, 5 double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. Then turn
+the work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave an
+interval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three times
+more from *, fastening the circles on to each other from illustration.
+Knot together the beginning and end of the cotton, work button-hole
+stitches round the cotton which joins the circles, as shown in
+illustration. The purl stitches of the four middle circles of the
+diamond are knotted together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+60.--_Tatted Cravat End_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3; 2 shuttles.
+
+This cravat end is given in full size. It is ornamented with a tatted
+medallion, edged with lace. The tatting is worked with tatting fine
+cotton and two shuttles. Make first the two rosettes which form the
+centre of the medallion, then the insertion-like part which edges the
+rosettes. The larger rosette is worked as follows:--Knot the cotton of
+both shuttles together and work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting
+of 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double; * close to
+this circle, which is turned downwards, work over the cotton with the
+other shuttle, 1 double, 1 purl, 8 double; this forms one of the
+scallops joining two circles. Then turn the work again and work close to
+the just completed scallop another circle like the first, but which is
+joined to the first circle instead of working the purl. Repeat 4 times
+more from *. Then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton on
+to the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the place
+where the scallop is joined to the first circle. The first round of the
+rosette is thus completed. Work then the 2nd round over the cotton on
+the 2nd shuttle, beginning to work where the two ends of cotton have
+been fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl of
+the next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double
+fastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the
+
+[Illustration: 60.--Tatted Cravat End.]
+
+preceding round; repeat 5 times more from *. The larger rosette is now
+completed. The smaller rosette is worked like the first, only without
+the second round. The insertion-like border is worked in two halves as
+follows:--The half which touches the edge of the medallion is worked as
+follows:--Knot both ends of cotton together and *, work with 1 shuttle
+only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long,
+8 double; turn the circle downwards and work close to it over the cotton
+on the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop of
+the border. Then turn the work again and work close to the scallop
+another circle like the first, but which is fastened on to the first
+circle instead of working the purl. Turn the work again, work a scallop
+like the preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only the
+scallops at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few double
+stitches more, as can be seen in illustration. After working the last
+scallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle; then cut
+them off. The second inner half is worked like the first; only the
+circles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened on to the
+circles of the first half from illustration; the scallops of this half
+are somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double. The
+completed border is sewn on to the rosettes from illustration; the
+different pieces must be first fastened on cardboard. The cotton must be
+wound several times round the long threads, as seen in illustration. The
+medallion is then sewn into the muslin at the top only; the remaining
+border is edged, before joining it to the muslin, with a straight row of
+knots to be worked over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop of
+the border at regular intervals. The number of double stitches between
+two purl is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. For the lace
+knot both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circle
+consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double; turn the work and make
+another circle consisting of 2 double, 9 times alternately 1 purl, 2
+double; then fasten this circle on to the preceding one, where it has
+been joined into a circle, so that both circles meet as seen in
+illustration. After having turned the work again, work 9 double over the
+cotton on the 2nd shuttle, which form a scallop between the circles, and
+repeat from *. The lace is then sewn round the edge of the muslin.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+61.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or No.
+40 if desired in a larger size.
+
+[Illustration: 61. Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.]
+
+This rosette is suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. It is
+worked in white embroidery and lace stitch, and edged all round with a
+tatted lace. For the latter work with very fine cotton * 1 large circle,
+consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl,
+then 5 double. At a short distance from this circle work a smaller one,
+consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the large circle,
+5 double. Leave again an interval as small as the last, and repeat from
+* 11 times more. But in working the large circles, instead of working
+the 1st purl, fasten them on the same purl of the large circle on which
+the small circle has been fastened; besides this, in working the last
+(12th) large circle, instead of working the last purl, fasten it on the
+1st purl of the 1st circle; the last small circle is fastened on to the
+same purl. The lace is thus joined into a circle, and is sewn round the
+outside of the rosette with button-hole stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+62.--_Cravat End in Tatting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 62.--Cravat End in Tatting.]
+
+The illustration shows the end of a tatted cravat. Work first the middle
+row of the cravat at the same time with the row of circles on the left
+side of the middle row in illustration; begin with the first circle of
+the middle row. It consists of 7 times alternately 3 double, 1 small
+purl, then 3 double. Work close to this circle, which must be turned
+downwards, a Josephine knot, consisting of 5 plain stitches, then a
+circle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 5 times
+alternately 3 double, 1 small purl; 3 double, 1 long purl, 5 double.
+*Turn this circle (which is the first of the side row) downwards, work
+close to it a Josephine knot, then a circle consisting of 12 double, 1
+small purl, 12 double. Turn this circle downwards, work a Josephine
+knot, and then again a circle like the first of the side row, but
+instead of working the first long purl, fasten it on to the last purl of
+the preceding circle of the same row. Then hold the work so that the
+circles of the side row are turned downwards, work a Josephine knot, 1
+circle like the first circle of the middle row, turn the work, make 1
+Josephine knot, and then a circle like the second circle of the side
+row. Repeat from * till the cravat is sufficiently long. The last circle
+of the middle row must correspond to the first circle of the same row.
+Then begin to work the lower edge at the same time with the last circle
+of the middle row, * 1 Josephine knot, then a circle like the circles of
+the side row, again 1 Josephine knot, fastened on to the next purl of
+the last circle of the middle row; repeat 3 times more from *. Then
+continue as before, and work on the right side of the middle row a row
+of circles exactly like those which have been worked at the same time
+with those of the middle row.
+
+The fastening on of the cotton between two Josephine knots is seen in
+illustration. The circles at the other end of the cravat are fastened
+like those of the first-described end. The cravat is edged all round
+with a row of circles with Josephine knots worked exactly like those of
+the preceding row, and the manner of fastening which is seen in the
+illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+63.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or 40
+if required larger; tatting-pin No. 3.
+
+[Illustration: 63.--Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.]
+
+The centre of this rosette is worked in lace stitch on muslin, edged
+round with button-hole stitch and trimmed with a tatted lace, which is
+worked at the same time with the centre. Work first * a small circle
+consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 3 double, fastened on to the button-hole
+stitch edging of the rosette, then 3 double, 1 purl, 5 double. Then turn
+the just-completed circle downwards, and afterwards work at a short
+distance a large circle consisting of 7 double, 6 times alternately 1
+purl, 2 double, lastly 1 purl, 7 double, then 1 Josephine knot
+consisting of 7 plain. Then turn the work again, so that the last large
+circle is turned downwards, and repeat from * 12 times more; the large
+and small circles must be fastened on to one another, as seen in
+illustration. The fastening of the small circles on to the centre is
+likewise done from the illustration.
+
+64.--_Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3; square of netting; fine Mecklenburg thread No. 80.
+
+[Illustration: 64.--Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting.]
+
+The end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned netting,
+edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of the cravat.
+But the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square (page 31) will look
+very pretty with this border. The square is worked in diamond netting,
+and has seven holes in length and breadth. They are darned in linen
+stitch, darning stitch, and _point d'esprit_, with Mecklenburg thread.
+The ground is worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inch
+round. For each square one more row than is needed must be worked, and
+the cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitches
+of the other rows. The tatted border is worked with fine tatting cotton.
+Fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a circle
+consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch of the ground
+where it was first fastened; #work a second circle like the
+first, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again on to the same
+stitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small circle, consisting
+of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4
+double, 1 purl, 5 double. The cotton is fastened on to the same netted
+stitch as before, and then on to the next stitch; repeat twice more from
+#, and then repeat from * in all three times more, so that the
+square is edged all round. It is sewn into the material from the
+illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+65.--_Tatted Antimacassar. (See pages_ 574-5.)
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 30, or
+tatting cotton No. 24, or for a larger size tatting cotton No. 20;
+tatting-pin No. 1; large shuttle.
+
+The illustration shows the fourth of the antimacassar and the whole of
+the rosette which forms the centre. Begin with the latter, with the
+five-branched pattern in the centre, at the same time with the following
+round of circles:--*Work first one circle of this round, consisting of 3
+double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double; then at
+a short distance a circle like the one just made, in which, however,
+instead of working the first purl, the cotton must be joined on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle. Then work at a short distance the
+first leaf of the five-branched pattern, which consists of 4 double, 1
+purl, 4 double. When this branch is completed, repeat at a short
+distance 4 times more from *; but in working the branches of the
+five-branched pattern, instead of working the purl, join it on to the
+purl of the first branch of the five-branched pattern (this purl forms
+the centre of the pattern). All the circles must also be joined one to
+each other, as can be seen from illustration. Then work the scallops
+round the border of the rosette, * fasten the cotton on to the purl
+which joins the two next circles of the preceding round, and work one
+scallop consisting of 11 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 2
+double. Repeat 9 times more from *. When the rosette is completed, work
+eight rosettes in the same manner and join them into a circle from
+illustration by means of small three-branched patterns, and then join
+them on to the middle rosette.
+
+The strip of insertion which comes next is worked in two halves as
+follows:--Work first, for the half turned towards the centre, two rows
+of circles lying opposite each other; begin with one of the largest
+circles, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 3 times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, then 4 double; * at a short distance work a smaller circle of 4
+double, 1 purl, 4 double; after another short distance, a circle like
+the first joined on to it; then again a smaller circle, which at the
+place of the first purl is joined on to the purl of the preceding small
+circle. A short distance from this work again one of the larger circles
+just described, which is fastened on to the preceding similar circle;
+then repeat from * till the double row has nine larger and eight smaller
+circles. The first half of the strip of insertion is completed; the
+second outer half is worked like the first, only the small circles must
+here be worked without any purl, and two of them together must always be
+fastened on to the two joined small circles of the first half, as was
+done for the five-branched pattern of the rosette; besides this, each of
+the large circles has 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, then 4 double. When eight similar patterns have been worked, join
+them into a circle from illustration by means of small rosettes; this
+circle is then joined to the already-finished part of the cover. The
+small rosettes and remaining patterns of the antimacassar are easily
+worked from illustration. The completed patterns are joined together in
+the course of the work.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TATTING COTTON
+
+Is supplied by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, in all sizes from
+20 to 120. Crochet Cotton, which is preferred by some Tatters, is sold
+in all sizes from to 120.
+
+The following table will assist ladies in selecting the size of either
+tatting or crochet cotton. All these cottons are on reels containing 100
+yards:--
+
+|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|
+|                                |     Tatting.    |    Crochet.   |
+|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|
+| Petticoat Edgings and          |                 |               |
+|    Insertions                  |     20          | 0 and 12      |
+|  Night Dress Trimmings         |     40          |       60      |
+| Lingerie Trimming              |     50          |       70      |
+|  Collars and Cravats           |     50          |       70      |
+|  Pocket Handkerchiefs          |    100          |      120      |
+|  Parasol Covers                |    100          |      120      |
+|  Antimacassars                 |    20, 30       |    0 and 20   |
+|  Pincushions                   |     60          |       80      |
+|  Caps                          |    100          |      120      |
+|  Lace                          |  60, 80, 100    | 80, 100, 120  |
+|  Insertions                    |  20, 40, 80     | 40, 80, 100   |
+|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------|
+
+Ladies at a distance from town or on the Continent will be glad to have
+some guide as to the quantity of cotton required to complete their work.
+The quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used by an average worker is
+found to be two yards to the square inch with a single shuttle; three
+yards to the square inch with two shuttles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+EMBROIDERY
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+
+The art of embroidering with cotton on linen, muslin, cambric, pique,
+&c., is very easy to learn by strictly attending to the following
+instructions.
+
+The size of the thread and needle must correspond to that of the
+material on which you embroider; the needle must not be too long, and
+the cotton must be soft. Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton is the best. Skilful embroiderers never work over anything,
+because when you tack the material on paper or cloth each stitch shows,
+and if the material is very fine, leaves small holes; but for those that
+are learning we should advise them to tack the material to be
+embroidered upon a piece of _toile ciree_. If you work without this,
+place the material straight over the forefinger of the left hand; the
+material must never be held slantways. The three other fingers of the
+left hand hold the work; the thumb remains free to give the right
+position to each stitch. The work must always, if possible, lie so that
+the outline of the pattern is turned towards the person who works. For
+the sake of greater clearness one part of the following illustrations is
+given in larger size than nature. Preparing the patterns is one of the
+most important things in embroidery, for the shape of the patterns is
+often spoiled merely because they have not been prepared with sufficient
+care.
+
+
+[Illustration: 66.--Scallop.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 66 shows how to prepare a scallop. Take thicker cotton than
+that with which you work; never commence with a knot, and do not take a
+thread longer than sixteen or eighteen inches. The outlines of the
+scallops are first traced with short straight stitches. In the corners
+particularly the stitches must be short. The space between the outlines
+is filled with chain stitches, as can be seen from illustration; they
+must not be too long, otherwise the embroidery will look coarse. It is
+in this way that every pattern to be worked in button-hole or satin
+stitch is to be prepared.
+
+
+[Illustration: 67.--Double Overcast Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 67 shows the double overcast stitch or button-hole stitch
+in a straight line. After having traced the outline begin to work from
+left to right; fasten the cotton with a few stitches, hold it with the
+thumb of the left hand under the outline, insert the needle downwards
+above the outline, draw it out under the same above the cotton which you
+hold in the left hand, and draw it up. Repeat for all the stitches in
+the same manner; they must be regular and lie close to one another.
+Great care should be taken that the material on which you embroider is
+not puckered.
+
+
+[Illustration: 68.--Overcast Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 68 (_Overcast Stitch_).--The double overcast and the
+button-hole stitches are worked from left to right, whilst back
+stitches, knotted and satin stitches are worked from right to left. The
+stitch is worked in the same way as the double overcast, only the needle
+must never be drawn out _above_, but _below_, the cotton with which you
+work, and which you keep down with the thumb of the left hand.
+
+
+[Illustration: 69.--Slanting Overcast Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 69.--The slanting overcast stitch is worked without tracing
+the outline, always inserting the needle downwards--that is, from top to
+bottom. The needle must be inserted in the manner shown in
+illustration--that is, not straight, but slanting; insert it a little
+farther than the last stitch, and draw it out close to it. The wrong
+side of the work must show back stitches. This sort of stitch is used
+for the fine outlines in patterns or letter.
+
+
+[Illustration: 70.--Back Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 70.--This shows the back stitch, the working of which is
+well known; it is worked in several rows close to each other.
+
+
+[Illustration: 71.--Point Croise.]
+
+[Illustration: 72.--Point Croise.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 71 & 72 show another kind of back stitch, called _point
+croise_, which is only used on very thin and transparent materials. This
+stitch forms on the wrong side a sort of darned pattern, which is seen
+by transparence on the right side, and gives the embroidered pattern a
+thicker appearance, contrasting with the rest of the work (see the lower
+leaves of the flower on illustration 110). For this stitch insert the
+needle into the material as for the common back stitch, draw it out
+underneath the needle on the opposite outline of the pattern, so as to
+form on the wrong side a slanting line. Insert the needle again as for
+common back stitch; draw it out slanting at the place marked for the
+next stitch on the opposite outline, as shown in illustration 71.
+
+
+[Illustration: 73--- Knotted Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 73 shows the knotted stitch; the simplest way of working it
+is to work two back stitches at a short distance from each other over
+the same thread.
+
+
+The knotted stitch seen in ILLUSTRATION 74 is worked thus:--Take about
+four threads of the material on the needle, draw the needle half out,
+wind the cotton twice round the point of the needle, hold it tight with
+the thumb, draw the needle out carefully and insert it at the place
+where the stitch was begun, and draw it out at the place where the next
+stitch is to be worked.
+
+[Illustration: 74.--Knotted Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 75.--Knotted Stitch]
+
+The knotted stitch seen on ILLUSTRATION 75 is worked in nearly the same
+manner as the preceding one. Before drawing the cotton out of the
+material hold it tight with the left-hand thumb; leave the needle in the
+same position, wind the cotton twice round it, turn the needle from left
+to right, so (follow the direction of the arrow) that its point arrives
+where the cotton was drawn out (marked by a cross in illustration),
+insert the needle there, and draw it out at the place of the next
+stitch.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 76 & 77.--Raised satin stitch is principally used for
+blossoms, flowers, leaves, letters, &c. After having traced the outlines
+of the pattern, fill the space left between them with chain stitches in
+a direction different from that in which the pattern is to be
+embroidered; begin at the point of the leaf, working from right to left,
+make short straight stitches, always
+
+[Illustration: 76.--Raised Satin Stitch.]
+
+inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it out below.
+The leaves on the flowers, as well as on the branches, must be begun
+from the point, because they thus acquire a better shape. If you wish to
+work a leaf divided in the middle, as seen in illustration 77, you must
+trace the veining before you fill it with chain stitches, then begin at
+one point of the leaf and work first one half and then the other.
+
+[Illustration: 77.--Raised Satin Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 78.--Point de Plume.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 78 shows the so-called _point de plume_ on a scalloped
+leaf. It is worked like the satin stitch, only the needle is drawn
+through the material in a slanting direction.
+
+
+[Illustration: 79.--Point de Minute.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 79 (_Point de Minute_).--This stitch is often used instead
+of satin stitch when the patterns must appear raised. Wind the cotton
+several times round the point of the needle, which is inserted into the
+material half its length (the number of times the cotton is to be wound
+round the needle depends on the length of the pattern), hold fast the
+windings with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle and the cotton
+through the windings, insert the needle into the material at the same
+place, and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to begin.
+
+
+[Illustration: 80.--Ladder Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 81.--Ladder Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 80 & 81 show the _ladder stitch_, often used in ornamental
+embroidery. Trace first the outlines as seen in illustrations; mark also
+the cross stitches between the outlines, so that the first touch the
+outlines only at both ends. The outlines are embroidered in overcast
+stitch or double overcast; the material is cut away underneath the
+ladder stitch between the outlines.
+
+We have now shown the different kinds of stitches used in embroidery;
+the following illustrations show them used for different patterns.
+
+
+[Illustration: 82.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.]
+
+[Illustration: 83.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.]
+
+[Illustration: 84.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.]
+
+[Illustration: 85.--Button-hole Stitch Scallop.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 82 TO 85 (_Different Button-hole Stitch Scallops_).--These
+scallops are prepared as above described. Take care to have the stitches
+even and regular; the scallops must be wide in the centre and very fine
+at both ends.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 86 & 87 (_Button-holes and Eyelets_).--This kind of
+embroidery is used only in round or long patterns. Trace first the
+outline of the hole, cut away a small round piece of material, not too
+close to the outlines (when the button-hole is very small merely insert
+the point of the scissors or a stiletto into the material), fold the
+edge of the material back with the needle, and work the hole in overcast
+stitch, inserting the needle into the empty place in the centre and
+drawing it out under the outline. Some button-holes are worked
+separately; sometimes they are in a row; if so, take care to begin to
+work each button-hole at the place where it touches the next. In the
+following button-holes the outside must be traced double, so as to reach
+as far as the next one, but each button-hole is finished at once.
+Illustration 86 shows a button-hole worked round in button-hole stitch,
+87 an eyelet-hole worked in overcast.
+
+[Illustration: 86.--Button and Eyelet Holes.]
+
+[Illustration: 87.--Button and Eyelet Holes.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 88.--Shaded Button-hole.]
+
+[Illustration: 89.--Shaded Button-hole.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 88 & 89.--Shaded button-holes are worked like the others,
+only they are prepared, as can be seen in illustration 89, so as to mark
+the thickness. The stitches must gradually get narrower or wider, and be
+worked very close to each other.
+
+
+[Illustration: 90.--Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 90 & 91 (_Two Leaves in Raised Satin Stitch_).--In a leaf
+like the one seen in 90 work first the outline and veining in overcast
+stitch; work one half of the leaf in satin stitch, and the other half
+between the overcast outline and veining in back stitch. The stem of a
+leaf is always worked last.
+
+[Illustration: 91.--Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 92.--Raised Leaf.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 92 & 93 (_Two Leaves in Satin Stitch and Point de
+Plume_).--For leaves like the one seen in 93 begin with the veinings,
+then work the inner points, then the outer ones, and lastly the raised
+spots in the centre. The leaf seen in 92 is worked, one half in _point
+de plume_, the other half in back stitch or _point d'or_.
+
+[Illustration: 93.--Raised Leaf.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 94.--Leaf.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 94.--- The outline of this leaf is embroidered in overcast
+stitch; the open-work veining consists of eyelets; one half of the leaf
+is worked in back stitch, the other half in a kind of satin stitch
+worked without chain stitches underneath; the stitches are worked
+across the leaf, leaving between two stitches an interval as wide as the
+stitch itself. The next row is then worked in these intervals, and each
+stitch begins half-way up the one before and after it.
+
+
+[Illustration: 95.--Leaf Raised.]
+
+[Illustration: 96.--Leaf Raised.]
+
+[Illustration: 97.--Raised Leaf.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 95 to 97 (_Leaf in Raised Embroidery).--This kind of
+embroidery is particularly beautiful, as it is worked separately and
+sewn on the material with an outline in very fine cotton, this produces
+the shade seen in 95 (see also illustrations 98 to 113). For such leaves
+work first one half in overcast and satin stitch (illustration 96); the
+other half is worked on a separate piece of material (see illustration
+97); cut away the material along the overcast outline, and fasten it on
+the foundation material along the outline which forms the veining on
+illustration 96.
+
+
+[Illustration: 98.--Raised Embroidered Leaf.]
+
+[Illustration: 99.--Half of Leaf (98).]
+
+[Illustration: 100.--Centre of Leaf (98).]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 98 TO 100 show a similar leaf; both halves are worked
+separately (see 99); the centre is worked in open lace stitch. The
+latter (see No. 100) is traced, then make ladder stitches across, work
+the outlines in overcast stitch, and cut away the material underneath
+the ladder stitch. The cross stitches are then worked in darning stitch
+with very fine cotton wherever two threads meet.
+
+
+[Illustration: 101.--Blossom in Satin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 101 (_Blossom in Satin Stitch_).--The eyelet is worked in
+overcast stitch, then work the upper part of the blossom all in one
+piece as far as the beginning of the veining, thence the blossom is
+worked in two halves.
+
+
+[Illustration: 102.--Blossom in Satin Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 103.--Bead partly covered.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 102 & 103 (_Blossom in Satin Stitch_).--The raised centre
+of this flower is formed by a bead, over which the embroidery is worked.
+When the leaves have been worked one after the other, place a bead in
+the centre, left free in such a manner that one hole lies on the
+material, and work over the bead by inserting the needle into its upper
+hole, then underneath the material, drawing it out above the material
+close to the bead, and so on (see 103).
+
+
+[Illustration: 104.--Star in Satin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 104 (_Star Pattern in Satin Stitch_).--The centre, which
+forms a wheel, is worked first. Draw the threads across the circle
+marked by an outline; in the centre they are wound round, always taking
+one thread _on the needle_ and leaving the next thread _under the
+needle_, as can be seen in 122 on the half-finished pattern. The
+material underneath the wheel is only cut away when the rest of the
+pattern has been embroidered.
+
+
+[Illustration: 105.--Star in Point de Reprise.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 105 & 106 (_Patterns in Back, Satin, and Ladder
+Stitches_).--The small star in the centre of No. 105 is worked in _point
+de reprise_.
+
+[Illustration: 106.--Star.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 107.--Flower in Satin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 107 (_Flower in Satin Stitch_).--The fine veinings are
+worked with fine black silk in _point russe_, which renders the effect
+of the flower very beautiful.
+
+
+[Illustration: 108--Rose in Satin Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 109.--Petal for Rose.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 108 & 109 (_Rose in Satin Stitch_).--No. 109 shows one
+petal larger than full size. The outer circle only is prepared with
+chain stitches underneath, so as to appear raised; the inner circles are
+worked flat. The centre of the rose is embroidered in open work.
+
+
+[Illustration: 110.--Heartsease.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 110 (_Embroidered Heartsease_).--For the knotted stitch see
+No. 75. for the _point croise_ see 71 and 72.
+
+
+[Illustration: 111.--Raised Flower]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 111 (_Flower in Raised Satin Stitch_).
+
+
+[Illustration: 112.--Ear of Corn.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 112 (_An Ear of Corn in Point de Minute_).
+
+
+[Illustration: 113.--Bluebell.]
+
+[Illustration: 114.--Inner part of Bluebell.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 113, 114, & 116 (_Bluebell in Raised Satin Stitch_).--This
+flower is worked partly in separate pieces, as has been described.
+Illustration 116 shows the raised part stretched out flat. When it is
+finished it is fastened down along the dotted line on No. 114, which
+shows the inner part of the flower.
+
+
+[Illustration: 115.--Flower.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 115 (_Flower in Point de Minute_).--This stitch is here
+worked over a thick foundation of chain stitches. For raised patterns it
+looks very well.
+
+[Illustration: 115.--Outer part of Bluebell.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 117.--Flower appliqued on Net.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 116 & 117 (_Flower worked in Applique_).--To work in
+applique, two materials, either similar or different, are needed. You
+can work either in applique of muslin on muslin, or of muslin on net, or
+of net on net. Muslin on Brussels net is the prettiest way of working in
+applique; we will therefore describe it: the other materials are worked
+in the same manner. Trace the pattern on the muslin, fasten the latter
+on the net, and trace the outlines of the pattern with very small
+stitches work them in overcast stitch with very fine cotton, taking care
+not to pucker the material. The veinings are worked in overcast. When
+the pattern has been embroidered cut away the muslin round the outlines
+with sharp scissors, so that the net forms the grounding (see No. 117).
+The greatest care is required in cutting out the muslin to avoid
+touching the threads of the net.
+
+
+[Illustration: 118.--Border.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 118 & 119 (_Narrow Borders_).--It will be easy to work
+these borders from the above instructions. Observe only that on border
+118 the outer row of scallops is worked first, then the button-hole
+stitch row, and the rest afterwards. The spots are edged all round in
+knotted stitch. The wheels in the centre of the eyelets of No. 119 are
+worked with very fine cotton in loose button-hole stitch; they are wound
+round with the cotton in a second row.
+
+[Illustration: 119.--Border.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 120.--Insertion.]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 120 TO 122.--Three strips of insertion, which are worked
+nearly like the ladder stitch. For No. 120, in tracing the outlines,
+make two small knots at short distances by winding the cotton four times
+round the needle, as can be seen in illustration; the windings are held
+down with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle through, and a
+knot is formed. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch only when
+all the knots have been made, and then the material is cut away
+underneath.
+
+Illustration 121 is a variety of the slanting ladder stitch.
+
+Illustration 122.--The cross threads are worked in two rows in the
+common herring-bone stitch, as can be seen by the black lines on the
+illustration. The straight lines at the top and at the bottom are worked
+in double overcast; lastly, the wheels are worked in a row as described
+for the star pattern, No. 104.
+
+[Illustration: 121.--Insertion.]
+
+[Illustration: 122.--Insertion.]
+
+[Illustration: 123. U]
+
+[Illustration: 124. C]
+
+[Illustration: 125. B]
+
+[Illustration: 126. O]
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 123 To 129 (_Embroidered Initials_).--To learn to work
+initials the Roman characters are the easiest to begin with. They must
+be traced and prepared like other embroidery in satin stitch, only the
+chain stitches underneath must not be too thick: it would take away the
+shape of the letters. All depends on the fineness and regularity of the
+stitches; they must be worked in overcast stitch. Work from left to
+right, and the letter when completed must look rather like raised
+printing than like embroidery. Gothic letters are much more difficult to
+work on account of the many flourishes; it requires great practice in
+needlework to embroider them well. Illustration 123.--The small black
+dots are worked in black silk on the thick parts of the letter: the fine
+strokes are covered with cross threads of black silk. Illustration
+124.--The outlines of the letter and the fine strokes are worked in
+black silk. Illustration 125.--This letter is embroidered in raised
+satin stitch and _point de plume_. Illustration 126.--This letter is
+worked in back stitches, over which are worked at regular distances
+cross stitches of black silk. Illustration 127.--Letter in satin and
+back stitch. Illustration 128 to be worked in overcast and double
+overcast.
+
+Illustration 129.--Letter G in _point russe_ with black silk.
+
+[Illustration: 127.]
+
+[Illustration: 128.]
+
+[Illustration: 129.]
+
+[Illustration: 130.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 130 (_Embroidered Figures_).--They are worked like the
+letters in _point de plume_ and overcast; the dots are worked in knotted
+stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+EMBROIDERY.
+
+[In working the following Embroidery Patterns it will be found advisable
+to trace the design clearly upon tracing-paper with a sharp-pointed lead
+pencil. The pattern thus traced must be perforated with a fine needle in
+a succession of tiny holes, at the rate of about twenty to the inch.
+Those ladies who possess a sewing-machine will find no difficulty in
+accomplishing this. Several thicknesses of paper can be perforated at
+the same time, if required, by any ordinary machine. To transfer the
+traced and perforated design to the fabric to be embroidered, it is only
+necessary to rub a small quantity of powder blue through the holes.]
+
+
+131.--_Insertion in Embroidery_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.
+
+This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch and button-hole stitch.
+The outlines must first be traced and the space filled up with chain
+stitches. To work a leaf, begin at the point, working from right to
+left, making short stitches, and always inserting the needle close above
+the outline and drawing it out below. The holes left for the ribbon to
+pass through are worked in plain button-hole stitch, the dots are worked
+in raised satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 131.--Insertion in Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+132.--_Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 10 and
+16.
+
+The veinings of this pretty insertion must be worked in overcast stitch
+(No. 68, _Embroidery Instructions_), the leaves and flowers in raised
+satin stitch, the scallops in button-hole stitch, and the outer edge of
+the leaves in back stitch (No. 70, _Embroidery Instructions_) with No.
+10 cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 132.--Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+133.--_Cravat End in Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 24, or fine black China silk.
+
+This graceful design is worked in raised satin stitch (see Nos. 76 and
+77, _Embroidery Instructions_) and back stitching, or point Russe. Black
+silk may be introduced at will, and the delicate leaves may be stitched
+in fine black silk, and the flowers embroidered in white, with the
+stamens in black silk.
+
+[Illustration: 133.--Embroidered Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+134.--_Basket Embroidered in Chenille_.
+
+Materials: A basket of fine wicker-work; 1 skein of black chenille, and
+3 of blue chenille.
+
+This small round basket measures seven inches across; it has a cover and
+two handles. The wicker is very delicately plaited, and is ornamented
+with a pattern in chenille which is very easy to work. Upon the cover,
+work in point Russe one large star in blue chenille, with the centre and
+outer circle in black. All round, work small stars in blue chenille,
+with a black stitch in the centre. The position of these stars is shown
+in our illustration. The basket requires no mounting; it is not even
+lined.
+
+[Illustration: 134.--Basket Embroidered in Chenille.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+135.--_Pattern for Collars and Cuffs in Embroidery._
+
+Materials: Muslin, cambric or lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton perfectionne No. 40.
+
+Work the outer circle in long even scallops (see page 90 of _Embroidery
+Instructions_) in raised button-hole stitch; the spray of flowers is
+embroidered in raised satin stitch, the leaves in the same, and the
+rosebud calyx in tiny eyelet-holes. The centres of the roses are
+embroidered in open-work.
+
+[Illustration: 135.--Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+136.--_Cravat End in Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Muslin, Brussels net; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 30.
+
+Tack the traced muslin over the net and work the scallop of the inner
+edge; next the design in the centre must be worked in raised satin
+stitch (see No. 77 in _Embroidery Instructions_). The raised dots are
+also worked in satin stitch (see page 90 of _Embroidery Instructions_).
+Lastly, work the outer edging of round scallops and the lines of raised
+dots, and with a pair of embroidery scissors carefully cut away the
+muslin from the outer edge and from the leaves of the centre pattern.
+
+[Illustration: 136.--Cravat End in Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+137.--_Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c_.
+
+Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton perfectionne No.
+40.
+
+This pretty star should be worked in fine overcast stitch (see No. 68 in
+_Embroidery Instructions_). The centre is worked in raised satin stitch
+leaves round a circle of button-hole stitch, in the middle of which a
+wheel is worked thus:--Slip the cotton under the thick edge and fasten
+it, then cross it over and back so as to make 8 bars, then twist the
+cotton twice round 1 bar; this will bring it to the centre; work over
+and under each of the bars until a thick dot is formed; fasten the
+cotton beneath this, and twist it twice round the bar opposite to the
+first one you worked, and finish off.
+
+[Illustration: 137.--Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+138.--_Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpane_.
+
+Materials: Cashmere, cambric muslin, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 4.
+
+[Illustration: 138.--Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpart.]
+
+This is an embroidery-pattern for a woollen or silk quilted counterpane.
+Such counterpanes generally have a lining which is turned back on the
+right side, and buttoned down at the point of each scallop. The pattern
+is a quilted counterpane of scarlet cashmere; the lining is of fine
+linen. Before embroidering it, make the points for the corners. The
+embroidery is worked in button-hole stitch, overcast, satin, and ladder
+stitch. It can also be worked on fine cambric or muslin, and then the
+embroidered pattern sewn on the piece of linen which forms the cover on
+the wrong side. Make the button-holes as seen on illustration, and sew
+on mother-of-pearl or china buttons.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 139.--Embroidery Pattern for Cravat Ends, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+139.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Collars, Cuffs, &c_.
+
+Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 40.
+
+This pattern is worked in satin stitch, point Russe, and point d'or on
+muslin, cambric, or linen; it is suitable for collars, or cravat ends,
+or handkerchief corners.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+140.--_Handkerchief in Embroidery_
+
+Materials: French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 50.
+
+[Illustration: 140.--Handkerchief in Embroidery.]
+
+Three rows of hem-stitching ornament this handkerchief; the pattern
+forms an insertion within the outer rows, the flowers are worked in
+raised satin stitch, with eyelet-hole centres (see No. 87 of _Embroidery
+Instructions_); the tendrils are worked in overcast stitch; three rows
+of raised dots, in groups of four, are worked on the inner side of the
+last row of hem-stitching. This pattern looks very handsome on a
+broad-hemmed handkerchief.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+141.--_Convolvulus Leaf Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+20.
+
+[Illustration: 141.--Convolvulus Leaf Insertion.]
+
+The convolvulus leaves are worked in raised satin stitch, the veinings
+and stems in overcast stitch, the eyelet-holes in slanting overcast
+stitch. (See No. 69 of _Embroidery Instructions_.)
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+142.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+20.
+
+This simple insertion is worked in raised satin stitch, the stems alone
+excepted; these are embroidered in overcast stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 142.--Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+143 and 144.--_Two Patterns in Embroidery for Trimming Lingerie_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 20, and
+Mecklenburg thread No. 50.
+
+[Illustration: 143 and 144.--Patterns for Trimming Lingerie.]
+
+These patterns are worked in point Russe and stitching; the spots in
+satin and knotted stitch. Illustration 143 is ornamented in the centre
+with lace stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+145 _and_ 146.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.
+
+The two insertions, Nos. 145 and 146, are worked partly in satin stitch,
+partly in open-work embroidery, and are edged on either side with an
+open-work hem.
+
+[Illustration: 145.--Insertion.]
+
+[Illustration: 146.--Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+147.--_Couvrette in Applique Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Net, fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 16.
+
+The pattern must be traced on the muslin, which should be tacked on the
+net. The outline of the design must be traced with very small stitches,
+and worked in overcast stitches, as are also the veinings; the dots are
+worked in raised satin stitch; the border is embroidered with satin
+stitch flowers and scallop button-hole stitch. To work applique on net,
+see No. 117 of _Embroidery Instructions_.
+
+[Illustration: 147.--Couvrette in Applique Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+148.--_Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat_.
+
+Materials for Pincushion: Jaconet muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 16. For toilet mat: White pique; cotton No. 12.
+
+[Illustration: 148.--Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat.]
+
+The leaves and flowers are worked in satin stitch; the eyelet-holes and
+stems in overcast stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+149.--_Corner for Handkerchief In Point Russe_.
+
+Materials: French cambric, fine China black sewing-silk, or filoselle.
+
+[Illustration: 149.--Corner for Handkerchief in Point Russe.]
+
+Point Russe stitch is made by a succession of back stitches. These
+stitches carefully follow every line of the design, and are worked in
+black China sewing-silk or filoselle. The pattern should be repeated at
+each corner of the handkerchief.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+150 _to_ 152.--_Borders and Insertions_.--_White Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+30, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50; fine black sewing-silk.
+
+[Illustration: 150.--Embroidered Border.]
+
+For the border No. 150, trace first the outlines of the scallop, then
+draw the threads which are to form the wheel in each scallop (take for
+this fine Mecklenburg thread, for the rest embroidery cotton), fasten
+them at the places where they cross each other, and work at these places
+small and large spots in satin stitch. Then work the scallops in
+button-hole stitch; edge each larger spot with button-hole stitch all
+round, and make a row of button-hole stitches for the upper edge of the
+border, and above this a row of herring-bone stitches. The material is
+cut away underneath the wheels.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 151.--Corner in Embroidery.]
+
+[Illustration: 152.--Corner in Embroidery.]
+
+The corner borders, illustrations 151 and 152, are worked in point
+Russe, chain and satin stitch, with fine black sewing silk.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 153--- Cravat End in Embroidery]
+
+153.--_Muslin Cravat_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+50; No. 40 for the edges.
+
+This cravat is worked on fine muslin, embroidered upon both ends in
+raised satin stitch; the scalloped edge is worked in button-hole stitch;
+the bouquet in the centre is worked in applique satin stitch--that is,
+the leaves of the rose and the foliage are worked separately on muslin;
+they are then cut out and worked in applique (see Nos. 113 and 116,
+_Embroidery Instructions_) upon the cravat, as seen in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+154.--_Sandwich Case_.
+
+Materials: Strip of grey kid; strip of oil silk; 1 skein black silk; 1
+skein red purse silk; 1 hank steel beads; steel button.
+
+This case will be found very useful on the occasion of a journey or
+picnic, as it can be carried in the pocket without any inconvenience.
+
+The case is made of a strip of grey kid, scalloped out at the edges. The
+words "Bon appetit," or "Good appetite," at will, are worked over it in
+overcast with black purse silk and steel beads, the scroll pattern in
+chain stitch with red silk. The back and front of the case are formed of
+the same strip, which is lined with oilskin, and to which narrow
+side-pieces are added to form the pocket. These pieces are lined and
+scalloped out in the same way as the back and front, and then the
+scallops of both sides are joined together, and worked round in
+button-hole stitch with purse silk.
+
+The case is fastened down with a steel button.
+
+If another colour is preferred, the sandwich case can be made of brown
+kid. The scroll pattern should then be worked in rich blue purse silk,
+and gold beads used for the letters, which should be embroidered as
+before in black silk. The edge may be worked in double overcast stitch
+in blue or black silk. A gold button must replace the steel when this
+alteration of colour is made.
+
+[Illustration: 154.--Sandwich Case.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+155.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.
+
+This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch between two rows of
+hem-stitching; a small eyelet-hole is worked in the centre of each
+flower.
+
+[Illustration: 155.--Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+156.--_Cravat End in Raised Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s. embroidery cotton Nos. 50 and
+16.
+
+This pattern is a muslin cravat 32 inches long. The greater part of the
+embroidered ends is worked in satin stitch; the leaves in the bouquet of
+the centre are worked in raised embroidery. (See Nos. 113 and 116,
+_Embroidery Instructions_.)
+
+The dotted lines are raised by taking four threads of the muslin on the
+needle, draw it half out, wind the cotton twice round the point, holding
+it tightly under the thumb, draw the needle out and insert it at the
+place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out where the next stitch
+is to be worked.
+
+[Illustration: 156.--Cravat End in Raised Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+157.--_Lady's Purse_.
+
+Materials: Russia leather; blue silk; black purse silk; blue silk
+soutache; fine gold braid; and gold thread.
+
+[Illustration: 157.--Lady's Purse.]
+
+This purse is embroidered upon Russia leather; an oval-shaped medallion
+is cut out in the centre; a piece of blue silk is gummed on under the
+leather so as to show within the oval; both leather and silk are then
+lined with calico and stretched upon a small embroidery frame. The front
+and back of the purse are made all of one piece, the centre of which is
+the bottom; after the embroidery is completed a piece of leather is
+added on each side to give the necessary fullness. Four flowrets are
+worked over the blue silk, with black purse silk, in raised satin
+stitch, with a dot in gold thread for the centre. The stems are black
+and the leaflets gold. The inner border round the oval medallion is
+worked in gold braid, and the outer one in blue soutache. The network
+upon the leather is formed of threads of black purse silk, fastened at
+every crossing with a stitch of gold thread; the outer border round this
+network is formed entirely of gold braid. On the opposite side of the
+purse initials may be worked in black and gold, over the blue silk oval
+medallion.
+
+The purse is lined with brown watered silk, and mounted with a clasp of
+gilt steel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+158.--_Table-Napkin Ring_.
+
+Materials: Crimson cashmere; _toile ciree_; 1 reel each of white, black,
+green, blue, and yellow Chinese silk.
+
+[Illustration: 158.--Table-Napkin Ring]
+
+Stretch a strip of cashmere of a bright shade of crimson over a piece of
+_toile ciree_, and work the pattern over it in point Russe with fine
+silk. The outer borders have white and black outlines, and leaflets of
+green silk. The stars have black and blue outlines, a yellow cross and
+dots. The figure between the stars is black and yellow.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+159 _and_ 160.--_Knife Basket_.
+
+Materials: Grey American cloth; red cloth; black jet beads and bugles;
+red worsted braid, three-quarters of an inch wide; some strong wire; a
+cigar-box.
+
+[Illustration: 159.--Knife Basket.]
+
+This basket is meant for holding dessert knives. It consists of a common
+cigar-box nine inches and two-fifths long, five inches and four-fifths
+wide, and two inches and one-fifth high, covered inside and out with
+grey American cloth, which is ornamented with embroidery worked in
+applique. The seams are made in overcast stitch. The feet consist of
+four pieces of strong wire three inches and two-fifths long. These
+pieces of wire are first covered with wool, and then with jet beads;
+they are then bent into loops, and fastened on at the bottom of the box
+by means of holes bored into it for that purpose. The feet must be
+fastened before covering the inside of the box. The inside of the basket
+is ornamented with an embroidered pattern in applique, which must also
+be worked before covering the box. The leaves are made of red cloth, the
+stems and veinings of black bugles. No. 160 shows the pattern in full
+size; the flowers and leaves are edged with light grey purse silk, over
+which small stitches in black silk are fastened at regular intervals.
+Inside the box fasten a deal board covered on both sides with American
+cloth, so as to divide the basket into two compartments, and fasten on
+to this board a handle consisting of a piece of wire seven inches long,
+wound round with beads. The basket is ornamented with ruches of red
+worsted braid; between two box pleats of the ruche a black bugle is
+fastened.
+
+[Illustration: 160.--Knife Basket.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+161.--_Satin Stitch Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Purse silk of two colours, in 4 shades of green and 4 shades
+of red or magenta for the flowers, gold twist.
+
+[Illustration: 161.--Fuchsia Spray.]
+
+This branch is embroidered with purse silk of the natural colours of the
+flowers and leaves, or in different shades of one colour, on silk
+canvas. Fuchsia blossoms are here designed, and should be worked in
+raised embroidery; the stamens to be worked in gold twist.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+162.--_Acacia Spray in Raised Satin Stitch Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Four shades of green purse silk for the leaves; 1 skein of
+brown silk; 3 shades of white or gold silk for the flowers.
+
+[Illustration: 162.--Acacia Spray.]
+
+This spray of acacia is worked in raised satin stitch embroidery; the
+flowers should be carefully shaded, and the veinings should be worked
+before the leaves are embroidered. The flowers may be worked gold
+colour, or imitate the white acacia blossom.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 163.--Tobacco Pouch.]
+
+[Illustration: 164.--Tobacco Pouch.]
+
+163 _and_ 164.--_Tobacco Pouch_.
+
+Materials: Fine crimson cloth; bits of coloured and white cloth for the
+pattern; purse silk of various colours; white kid; brass rings; gimp
+cord; and silk tassels.
+
+This pouch is cut in four pieces, two of which are given in full size;
+the two others must be worked after the same patterns. These patterns
+represent the attributes of a lover of tobacco; they are cut out of
+cloth and worked in applique over crimson cloth.
+
+In No. 163 the outer chain stitch border is green. The knot from which
+the different articles are suspended is black, the cigar-case yellow in
+cloth applique, the cigars brown in satin stitch. The case is crossed by
+two rows of chain stitch in blue silk, and edged all round with
+button-hole stitch, also blue. The two pipes are of white cloth, edged
+round with yellow silk; the shade is imitated by long stitches of grey
+silk. The upper part of the pouch is of blue cloth, with a white silk
+edging and yellow dots; the under part of brown cloth with a black
+edging and a pattern worked in chain stitch with white; the three
+tassels are embroidered with black and yellow silk.
+
+In No. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the small
+pattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the pipes of
+white cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. The bundle of cigars
+is of brown cloth, shaded with black silk stitches, and fastened on with
+double rows of chain stitch in yellow silk. The cigar-case is of light
+green cloth, edged with white; the Grecian pattern and dots are
+embroidered over it with white silk also.
+
+To make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them together by
+seams, which are hidden under yellow soutache; cut out also and join
+in the same way four pieces of white kid for the lining, and fasten it
+on to the crimson cloth at the top only. Sew small brass rings round the
+top, and pass a double piece of crimson silk cord through them. Add silk
+tassels of various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each of
+its four corners.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+165.--_Insertion_
+
+Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.
+
+[Illustration: 165.--Insertion.]
+
+This strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat trimmings. It
+is worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in overcast stitch; the
+circles can be filled up with lace stitches or with wheels, or the
+pattern may be worked upon Brussels net and the linen cut away.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+166.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, Workbaskets, &c._
+
+Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glace silk; gold
+beads.
+
+This pattern is worked in French embroidery and point Russe, with
+coloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. The thimble, cotton, and ribbon
+are worked in applique with glace silk. The colours are chosen according
+to personal taste. The thimble is ornamented with small gold beads. A
+bead is placed in the centre of each pair of scissors to imitate the
+screw.
+
+[Illustration: 166.--Pattern for Needlebook, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+167.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, &c._
+
+Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads.
+
+The shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers in
+point Russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double overcast; the
+interior is filled with a netting worked in chain stitch or dotted
+stitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and beads; the ribbon is
+embroidered in applique, with a contrasting shade of silk ribbon.
+
+[Illustration: 167.--Pattern for Needlebook, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+168 _and_ 169.--_Travelling Bag_
+
+Materials: 20 inches of Java canvas; single Berlin wool of 2 shades of a
+pretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white; floss silk--white,
+brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue,
+and grey; steel beads; brown silk fancy braid.
+
+[Illustration: 168.--Travelling Bag.]
+
+This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it is very
+prettily worked. Besides the engraving showing the bag when completed,
+the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. This bouquet is also
+worked upon the Java canvas. For each petal the white wool is passed
+several times from one stitch of the canvas to another till the required
+thickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is worked at the point with white
+silk. The centres are filled up in point d'or with 2 shades of yellow
+silk. The buds are made like the petals, but with 3 stitches of white
+silk at the point instead of 1. The leaves are worked in 2 shades of
+green wool with 1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems are
+embroidered in overcast with light brown wool. The scroll-pattern border
+round the bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steel
+beads.
+
+[Illustration: 169.--Bouquet for Travelling Bag.]
+
+The remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured purse
+silk. The 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk, by
+inserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas. When you
+have worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the other, work on
+either side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines of yellow silk,
+which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the Java canvas being
+covered by each stitch. Next to the inner yellow outline comes a border
+worked over two strips of the canvas, in slanting stitches; this border
+is alternately blue in one square and grey in the other. A star is
+embroidered in point Russe in the centre of each square; it is grey in
+the blue squares and blue in the grey; a steel bead is placed in the
+middle of each star. The small crosses between the squares are worked in
+cerise. The outer border of the work is composed of a piece of black
+soutache, edged with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. The front
+and back pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. The side
+pieces are made of plain Java canvas. The embroidered part measures 14
+inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined with
+light brown silk, and made up with a steel clasp.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+170.--_Embroidery Trimming for Muslin Bodices_.
+
+Materials: Fine muslin; fine black silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 24.
+
+This pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a trimming.
+It is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked in button-hole
+stitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered with loose
+button-hole stitch in black silk. The feather-like branches are worked
+likewise in black silk in herring-bone stitch. The white spots are worked
+in raised embroidery. The large oval openings through which a narrow
+ribbon velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches:
+
+[Illustration: 170.--Trimming for Bodices.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+171, 172, _and_ 173--_Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery_.
+
+This handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin; if
+lined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. The patterns,
+which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked in point d'or;
+the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine double overcast. The
+flower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear raised on illustration on
+account of the dark shadows, are worked separately and sewn on at the
+corresponding places. No. 172 shows the wing of a bird, No. 173 a
+rose-leaf somewhat increased in size; the former is worked entirely in
+button-hole stitch, or trimmed with a ruche of coloured ribbon. This
+pattern may also be worked on glace silk with purse silk.
+
+[Illustration: 171.--Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery.]
+
+[Illustration: 172.--Wing of Bird.]
+
+[Illustration: 173.--Rose Leaf.]
+
+[Illustration: 174.--Pattern for Glove Box.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+174 _and_ 175.--_Glove Box_.
+
+Materials: 15 inches of French blue cashmere; silks of various colours.
+A shape in bamboo cane, painted brown and varnished.
+
+[Illustration: 175.--Glove Box.]
+
+The ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. It is
+embroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. Part of the
+embroidery pattern is given in full size. All the outlines are worked in
+overcast, the stitches being made rather long and slanting, and the
+small leaves are each composed of one stitch, as in point Russe. The
+leaves are alternately red and yellow upon a green stem; the scalloped
+outline which has no leaves is red. The pine patterns are worked in
+satin stitch--the centre one is green, edged with red; the side ones are
+pink, edged with red; the small wing-like figures are black, edged with
+maize; the diamond, maize, edged with black, with an outer rim of maize.
+In the round pattern the centre is pink; the edge red, with red and
+yellow leaves; the 3 outer circles are successively white, green, and
+red; at the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow,
+the side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green.
+
+The strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk, slipped
+through the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined together at the
+side by a seam. The cover is lined with plain blue cashmere, upon which
+initials might be embroidered at discretion. The four corners are
+ornamented with pretty silk tassels, of colours to match with the
+embroidery. To fasten the box, sew on a blue ribbon to the cover, and
+one to the box.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+176 _and_ 177.--_Hanging Letter Case_.
+
+Materials: Crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and fine
+gold bouillon.
+
+No. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size, No. 177
+the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full size.
+
+The letter case is composed of two parts. The larger part is 11 inches
+long, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with a pattern
+in gold soutache, and the word LETTERS or LETTRES embroidered in gold
+bouillon; underneath there is a pattern embroidered in oval white satin
+beads, edged round with fine white chenille; the scroll pattern is
+embroidered in gold bouillon.
+
+The second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and forms
+the pocket which contains the letters. The centre flower is composed of
+11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another white bead is
+placed in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon. The other flowers
+are also composed of white satin beads, edged with gold bouillon.
+
+[Illustration: 176.--Hanging Letter Case.]
+
+[Illustration: 177.--Pattern for Embroidered Letter Case.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+178.--_Embroidered Edging_.
+
+Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+24
+
+[Illustration: 178.--Embroidered Edging.]
+
+This edging is worked in broderie Anglaise or overcast stitch; the edge
+in scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in raised satin
+stitch. The stems are worked in slanting overcast stitch (No. 122,
+_Embroidery Instructions_).
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+179.--_Border in Oriental Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright red, 2
+shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet.
+
+
+[Illustration: 179.--Border in Oriental Embroidery.]
+
+The four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting colours.
+These ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. The outer row of
+the first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright red. Following the
+same arrangement, the second oval is of two shades of green; the third
+of two shades of blue; and the fourth of two shades of yellow. The
+knotted stitch in the centre is violet. The dots outside the ovals are
+worked in satin stitch, and are alternately red, yellow, violet, and
+blue. The stems are long stitches of black silk. The arabesque patterns
+between those formed of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silk
+of two shades of brown. The colours of the ovals may be varied as much
+as you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns should
+remain the same for the whole of the border.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+180 _and_ 181.--_Embroidery Stars_.
+
+Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton
+No. 40.
+
+These stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen collars
+and cuffs. No. 180 is worked in successive rows of back-stitching, round
+an open wheel; ladder stitch (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_) is
+worked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms the
+edge.
+
+[Illustration: 180.--Embroidery Star.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 181.--Embroidery Star.]
+
+No. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the star is
+filled with lace wheels.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+182 _and_ 183.--_Key Bag_.
+
+Materials: Grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glace silk; purse silk of
+5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and silver-grey, scarlet, and
+white; grey silk cord; grey glace silk ribbon.
+
+This bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. The embroidery
+imitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves, and stems, in the
+upper part of which sits an owl, "the
+
+[Illustration: 182.--Key Bag.]
+
+[Illustration: 183.--Key Bag.]
+
+bird of night." The poppies are worked with blue-green purse silk in 5
+shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown silk of 4 shades in
+satin stitch, the colours blending one into the other, as can be clearly
+seen in illustration No. 182. The eyes of the owl are embroidered in
+scarlet and white silk. Illustration No. 183 shows the other side of the
+bag, which is ornamented with steel-coloured silk applique figures, in
+the form of a Gothic lock. They are edged with fine grey silk cord. The
+screws of the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery with
+silver-grey silk. After having lined each part, join the two halves of
+the bag with a border of grey glace silk ribbon, which must, of course,
+continue round the revers. The bag is fastened by means of a loop and
+steel button.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+184 _and_ 185--- _Embroidery Patterns for Trimming Cravats, Bodices,
+Morning Caps, &c._
+
+[Illustration: 184--Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.]
+
+Materials: Muslin or cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 24 for
+lingerie, No. 12 for couvrettes.
+
+These patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for trimming
+various articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares they make
+pretty covers. They can also be embroidered with coloured silk, wool, or
+thread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming couvrettes and toilet
+pincushions. The patterns should be embroidered in satin stitch and
+edged with chain stitch; they can also be worked in button-hole stitch.
+When the pattern is worked on woollen material this material must be cut
+away inside the leaves and spots.
+
+[Illustration: 185.--Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+186 _and_ 187.--_Pen-Wiper in Cloth Applique_.
+
+Materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small white, and 4
+red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of cloth; small black
+beads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory handle or figure.
+
+This pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of cloth. No.
+187 is one of these circles seen in full size. There are 4 white and 4
+red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. In the centre of each
+red circle place a white, and in the centre of each white circle a red
+star, and work a cross over it with small round black beads. The
+border, in herring-bone stitch, is worked with gold-coloured purse silk
+on the red, and with black on the white cloth. The centre of the
+pen-wiper is covered with a circle of white cloth larger than the side
+ones, worked in point Russe and point Mexico in black silk. When all the
+circles are prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth,
+placing alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, and
+between each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the edge.
+The work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined with black
+glazed calico, and a
+
+[Illustration: 186.--Pen-wiper in Embroidery.]
+
+small handle of carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in the
+centre. The circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens.
+
+[Illustration: 187.--Full-sized Circle for Pen-wiper.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+188.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton
+No. 30.
+
+[Illustration: 188.--Insertion.]
+
+The flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin stitch
+round an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the stars are
+worked in point Russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which surround each
+flower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished with a row of
+hem-stitching on each side.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+189.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton
+No. 24.
+
+This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch; the dots
+and stems should be worked first, and the leaves afterwards. It is edged
+on both sides with a row of hem-stitching.
+
+[Illustration: 189.--Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+190.--_Cigar Case_.
+
+Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk; gold
+thread.
+
+The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light brown
+Russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in well-raised
+satin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter outlines shown in
+the illustration are worked in gold thread. The border to be worked in
+fine silk cord of the same colour as the leather, with a network of
+black purse silk, stitched with gold at all the crossings. On the
+opposite side of the cigar case
+
+[Illustration: 190--Cigar Case.]
+
+initials may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fine
+leather, and the mountings gilt or steel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+191.--_Wicker Waste Paper Basket_.
+
+Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth fringe; and
+glazed calico.
+
+[Illustration: 191.--Waste Paper Basket.]
+
+The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern. It rests
+upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can be made by
+any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room. The trimming
+consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed calico, and put on
+round the edge; the lower part of the border is trimmed with a woollen
+fringe. The shades selected should correspond with the prevailing
+colour of the room.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 192.--Insertion.]
+
+192.--_Insertion_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.
+
+The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole stitch, and
+embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted line is worked in
+raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers which compose the centre
+wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in overcast stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 193.--Embroidered Linen Collar.]
+
+193 _and_ 194.--_Embroidered Linen Collars_.
+
+Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 40.
+
+These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. No. 194 is
+worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see Nos. 81, 82, 76,
+and 73 of _Embroidery Instructions_), and point d'or with white cotton,
+and point Russe with black silk. No. 193 is worked entirely with white
+cotton in button-hole, satin, knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (See
+Nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and 68 of _Embroidery Instructions_.)
+
+[Illustration: 194.--Embroidered Linen Collar.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 195--What-not in the Shape of a Hammock.]
+
+195 _and_ 196.--_What-not_.
+
+Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades of green
+floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of yellow floss silk;
+green chenille; cord and tassels.
+
+[Illustration: 196.--Pattern for What-not (full size).]
+
+This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant to place
+upon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when completed, No. 196
+one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size; it is worked upon fine
+canvas. The violets are in floss silk of three shades of violet, with
+a raised spot worked in yellow silk in the centre, the leaves are worked
+in Berlin wool of various shades of green, and the stems in overcast of
+a light green shade. The pattern is grounded in tent stitch with
+sea-green silk. The hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece
+cut out in cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined
+and quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top with
+green chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the hammock is
+fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off with tassels.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+197.--_Embroidered Handkerchief_.
+
+Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 40.
+
+This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a handkerchief,
+which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn. The design is
+simple, but effective, and very easy to work. If worked on fine French
+cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly tacked upon _toile ciree_.
+The rows of raised dots should be worked first, and then the graceful
+branches of pointed leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots might
+be worked in bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. To
+produce a good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40
+will be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourning
+wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or the
+leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in filoselle.
+
+[Illustration: 197.--Handkerchief Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+198 _and_ 199.--_Two Medallions for a Purse in Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk;
+steel or gold clasp.
+
+These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may be
+employed on a variety of articles.
+
+[Illustration: 198.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.]
+
+[Illustration: 199.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.]
+
+The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satin
+stitch, the branched sprays in point Russe in scarlet and gold, the four
+largest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk.
+Medallion No. 199 is worked entirely in point Russe, and may be
+embroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold,
+or scarlet and black.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+200.--_Work-Bag_.
+
+Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours;
+embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; red
+cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather.
+
+[Illustration: 200.--Work Bag.]
+
+This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The outside
+consists of drab cloth, trimmed with applique embroidery. The inside of
+the bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted in
+diamonds. The seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strap
+completes the whole. Cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut the
+satin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. After
+having traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces of
+coloured cloth in applique embroidery. The different figures are sewn
+over the centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches,
+with embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in
+chain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a
+pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge must be
+bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. The ends
+of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded and
+lined with red satin; the outside worked in applique embroidery like the
+rest of the bag. All the seams are covered with red silk cord. The
+straps are fastened with a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+201 _to_ 203.--_Pattern for Braces_.
+
+Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico.
+
+[Illustration: 201.--Pattern for Braces (full size).]
+
+These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico ornamented with
+embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side with
+loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes in red wool.
+Illustration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. Work
+first the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; work
+loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the
+cross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on
+the tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter
+are then edged with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. The
+vandykes are worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole
+stitch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next
+button-hole stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole
+stitch, repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red
+button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No. 203
+shows another
+
+[Illustration: 102.--Embroidered Braces.]
+
+way of working these braces on fine ribbed pique. Work any Berlin wool
+work pattern in the common cross stitch over the ribs of the pique. For
+the vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double
+divided by 3 chain stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 203.--Pattern for Braces (Full size).]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+204.--_Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk_.
+
+Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silver
+brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread.
+
+This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and gold
+thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. The dark
+patterns are worked in applique with black velvet, the two other shades
+in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is worked in satin stitch
+with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. The
+border can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is not
+intended to contrast with it. The pattern can also be worked entirely in
+silk with satin stitch. The size of the border may, of course, be
+increased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must,
+in any case, form the centre of it.
+
+[Illustration: 204.--Embroidery Border for a Reading Desk.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 205.--Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.]
+
+205.--_Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 6 and
+No. 12; net and muslin.
+
+The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked over
+net. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the veinings are
+sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cut
+away all round the pattern.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+206.--_Venetian Border._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 12 and
+No. 16; net and muslin.
+
+[Illustration: 206.--Venetian Border.]
+
+This design is elegant and effective, without there being a great deal
+of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening dresses or
+handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over,
+and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the ground
+work.
+
+[Illustration: 207.--Lace Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_207.--Lace Insertion._
+
+Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net.
+
+This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the net;
+the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked in
+overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circle
+previously outlined; the lace stitches in the centre are formed by
+gently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewn
+lightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace stitches
+consisting of fine button-hole stitches, very evenly worked over the
+entire space surrounding the open holes.
+
+To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. This
+pattern may be worked in applique by placing muslin over net, sewing all
+the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when finished, carefully
+cutting away the muslin.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+208 _and_ 209.--_Slipper on Java Canvas._
+
+Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle and
+purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; some
+wadding; 2 cork soles.
+
+[Illustration: 208.--Slipper on Java Canvas.]
+
+This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of light
+brown Java canvas, and embroidered in point Russe with green filoselle.
+It is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. The soles are of
+cork. The slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbon
+three-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is
+turned down inside. No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitch
+nearly full size.
+
+[Illustration: 209.--Point Russe Stitch for Slipper (No. 208)]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+210 _and_ 211.--_Medallions in Point Russe_.
+
+Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk.
+
+These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers,
+cushions, borders, &c. They are worked with coloured filoselle in point
+Russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted stitch, on cloth,
+velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of both medallions contrasts
+with the colour of the ground, and must therefore be worked in applique
+on the latter with herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border.
+The wreath on No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which
+imitate small blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is left
+to the personal taste of the worker.
+
+[Illustration: 210.--Medallion in Point Russe.]
+
+[Illustration: 211.--Medallion in Point Russe.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+212.--_Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner_.
+
+Materials: French lawn or cambric; fine black silk.
+
+This butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in order
+more closely to imitate etching. It is worked in point Russe and scallop
+stitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in button-hole scallop
+stitch, the stitches being taken very closely together, but not raised
+by the usual method of placing chain stitches beneath the button-hole
+stitches. The outlines and flowers are worked in point Russe, the dot in
+knotted stitch (see No. 73, _Embroidery Instructions_.)
+
+[Illustration: 212.--Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner.]
+
+The initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch, and
+should be worked with great regularity.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+213 _to_ 215.--_Pattern for a Couvrette in Applique_. (_see pages
+576-7_.)
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 24 and
+30; cambric muslin; Brussels net; flesh-coloured silk; sewing silk of
+the same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue silk; brown silk; gold
+thread.
+
+This style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed covers. It is
+worked in cambric muslin and silk, over Brussels net.
+
+The arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the outlines are
+embroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away all round. The
+medallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon them are cut out of
+flesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon tissue-paper, then upon
+the blue silk; the figures are further fastened upon the medallions in
+overcast stitch with fine silk of a rather darker shade of flesh-colour.
+The scarfs are cut out of bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver and
+arrows and all the other attributes are worked in gold thread; the hair
+in fine brown silk. The edge of the blue silk medallions is worked round
+in button-hole stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when the
+couvrette has to be cleaned. A border in open ladder stitch is worked
+round them (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_). The openings in the
+centre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CROCHET
+
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+[Illustration: A Crochet-Needle]
+
+Cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the materials
+required for working crochet. The needle, whether it be steel or bone,
+must be smoothly polished. The long wooden and bone crochet-needles are
+used for wool; for cotton and silk work short steel needles screwed into
+a bone handle are best. The beauty of the crochet-work depends upon the
+regularity of the stitches, as is the case with every other style of
+needlework. The stitches must be elastic, but if too loose they look as
+bad as if too tight. The size of the needle and that of the cotton or
+wool must correspond; work only with the point of the needle, and never
+move the stitch up and down the needle. The cotton with which you work
+must be of the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes,
+imitation of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes,
+counterpanes, covers, &c., use knitting-cotton. All crochet-work
+patterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds of
+foundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and the
+purl foundation chain.
+
+The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 216.--Plain Foundation Chain.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 216.--Form a loop with the cotton or other material with
+which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for
+knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. The
+crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and
+forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of
+the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the
+cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton
+from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and
+draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast
+off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the
+cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has
+acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made,
+take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left
+hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of
+the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the
+needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop.
+
+
+[Illustration: 217.--Double Foundation Chain.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 217 (_The Double Foundation Chain_).--Crochet 2 chain
+stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st
+chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the
+cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the
+needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last
+stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it
+through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation
+chain is long enough.
+
+
+[Illustration: 218.--Purl Foundation Chain.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 218 (_Purl Foundation Chain_).--* Crochet 4 chain stitch,
+then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert
+the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain
+stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch,
+wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the
+cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding
+the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle,
+and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain
+stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following
+crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they
+are all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make
+a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216),
+and take it on the needle.
+
+
+[Illustration: 219.--Slip Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 219 (_Slip Stitch_).--Draw the needle through the back part
+of a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through the
+back part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round the
+needle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. The
+illustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is left
+quite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to be
+inserted for the next stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration: 220.--Double Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 220 (_Double Stitch_).--These are worked nearly like the
+preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of a
+stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the two
+loops on the needle.
+
+
+[Illustration: 221.--Double Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like the
+preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in the
+following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch of
+the preceding row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 222.--Ribbed Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 222 (_The Ribbed Stitch_).--This stitch is worked backwards
+and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together,
+which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back part
+of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is
+not worked, however, in the following row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 223.--Slanting Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 223 (_Slanting Stitch, double stitch_).--This stitch is
+worked like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round the
+needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in
+the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as
+a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration: 224.--Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 224 (_Cross Stitch_).--This stitch is worked like No. 223
+on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the two
+upper sides of a stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration 225:--Long Double Stitch.]
+
+Illustration 225 (_Long Double_).--For this stitch wind the cotton round
+the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton
+out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off
+together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round
+the needle.
+
+
+[Illustration 226.--Treble Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 226 (_Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are worked as has
+been described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treble
+stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the
+preceding row.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATION 227 (_Long Treble_).--These are worked like treble
+stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the double
+long treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton three
+times round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round the
+needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The
+two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the
+cotton round the needle.
+
+[Illustration: 227.--Long Treble Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 228.--Double Long Treble Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 229.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
+
+[Illustration: 230.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (_Cross Treble_).--Illustration 229 shows this
+stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course of
+the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble,
+insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross
+treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the
+cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and
+cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop
+formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the
+needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the
+needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the
+2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the
+third stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2
+loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain
+stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting,
+work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of
+foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown
+by the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble
+stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 231.--Cross Treble Stitch.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 232.--Raised Spots.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 232 (_Raised Spots_).--The grounding on which these spots
+are worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows of
+the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being
+placed between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of double
+stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as
+follows:--1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of
+the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only
+completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble
+stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed
+as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there
+remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see
+illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton
+once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot
+the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at
+intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 233.--Hollow Spots.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 233 (_Hollow Spots_).--The ground is worked in double
+crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist of
+5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5
+stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle
+between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5
+treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1
+stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely
+without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth
+treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the
+cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the
+spot.
+
+
+[Illustration: 234.--Open-work Spots.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 234 (_Open-work Spots_).--These spots are treble stitches
+divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they
+are worked like the raised spots (illustration 232).
+
+
+[Illustration: 235.--Raised Treble Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 235 (_Raised Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are long
+treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown
+across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on the
+same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch
+of the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a row
+in ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the
+treble stitches begin only in the 4th row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 236.--Purl Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 236 (_Purl Stitch_).--These purl stitches imitate a lace
+edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain
+length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in
+the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see
+illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a
+loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.
+
+
+[Illustration: 237.--Purl Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 237 (_Purl Stitch turned upwards_).--Work 1 treble, then 7
+chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch
+downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see
+illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton
+through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3,
+missing 3 stitches under it.
+
+
+[Illustration: 238.--Purl Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 238 (_Purl Stitch turned downwards_).--The chain stitches
+form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain
+stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper
+chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through
+the loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needle
+and cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purl
+stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+CROCHET PATTERNS.
+
+
+239.--_Small Crochet Basket_.
+
+Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of
+pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.
+
+[Illustration: 239.--Small Crochet Basket.]
+
+For the bottom: Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3
+chain, and repeat three times more.
+
+2nd round: Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long
+into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place,
+make 3 chain, and repeat.
+
+3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last
+round.
+
+4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by
+working twice into it.
+
+5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.
+
+For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long
+stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine.
+
+2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1
+chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch
+between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and
+1 chain stitch alternately.
+
+3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into
+each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way,
+then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in
+length, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted over
+wire.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+240 to 243.--_Couvrette in Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 10, and
+steel crochet needle.
+
+This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles representing
+dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242 shows one of these
+large circles in full size, No. 241 one of the small circles placed in
+the spaces between the larger ones, No. 243 part of the border, and No.
+240 the couvrette when completed, but in reduced size.
+
+For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it into a
+circle.
+
+1st round: 30 stitches of double crochet over the circle of chain
+stitches.
+
+2nd round: 36 stitches of double crochet.
+
+3rd round: 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1. 4th round:
+
+[Illustration: 240.--Couvrette in Crochet.]
+
+The same as the preceding--the 1 double always on the 3rd chain.
+
+5th round: Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the centre stitch of
+each loop.
+
+6th to 12th round: The same as the 5th, close double crochet, increasing
+in the centre of each small scallop, which forms the 18 raised petals of
+the dahlia.
+
+13th round: Here begins the open-work border round the dahlia. Work 1
+double between 2 petals, taking together the 2 centre stitches, 1 double
+in the next, 5 chain. There will be 18 loops of 5 chain in the round.
+
+14th to 17th round: 1 double in centre of each loop, 5 chain between.
+18th round: 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1 treble in next
+loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3 double, with 3 chain
+between each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same all round, and the large
+circle is completed. Six of these are required.
+
+[Illustration: 241.--Showing one of the small Circles full size of No.
+240.]
+
+For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it into a
+round.
+
+1st round: 16 stitches of close double crochet.
+
+2nd round: 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times.
+
+3rd round: 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double between. This
+completes 1 of the 6 small circles placed round the large ones in the
+centre of the couvrette. The 6 that are placed between the 5 other large
+circles have 1 more round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in the
+centre of 1 scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3
+chain between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round.
+
+[Illustration: 242.--Showing one of the large Circles full size of No.
+240.]
+
+When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen in
+illustration 217, and work the border as follows:--
+
+1st round: 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a small circle, 8
+chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble in 3rd trefoil, 8
+chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1 long treble in 1
+trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the 4 next trefoils of
+the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain, 1 long treble in the
+last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain. Repeat all round.
+
+2nd round: 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first stitch of last
+round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain between next stitch.
+Repeat from *.
+
+3rd and 4th rounds: The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble always in 1 chain.
+
+5th round: In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain between the 2nd and
+3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all round.
+
+6th round: The same as the 5th.
+
+7th round: 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of the treble, 6
+chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the couvrette.
+
+[Illustration: 243.--Border for Couvrette.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+244.--_Star in Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 80, or with
+No. 8 or 10 for couvrettes.
+
+A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty strips of
+insertion. For this purpose they should be worked with fine cotton. They
+may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and cravats, the material
+being cut away underneath. If worked with crochet cotton No. 8 or 10,
+they will make nice couvrettes, bed-quilts, &c.
+
+[Illustration: 244.--Star in Crochet.]
+
+The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70 stitches, and
+join it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work 1 extra long
+treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle under the chain,
+then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2 extra long double, miss
+4, and work 1 double, inserting the needle _under_ the 5th. Repeat 13
+times from * Fasten off, and for the centre of the star work as
+follows:--
+
+1st round: * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double in the next 7
+chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus forming 1 loop. Repeat
+from * 5 times more.
+
+2nd round: 12 double on the first loop of chain of the first branch, 1
+double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip the stitch which is
+upon the needle in one of the stitches of the foundation chain of the
+outer circle, work 1 double in the first of the 2 chain last made, then
+12 double in the remaining loop of chain of the branch, and 1 double at
+the bottom of the branch. Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre star
+must be joined on to the outer circle at regular distances.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+245.--_Crochet Silk Bag over Rings_.
+
+Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse
+twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and
+strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left;
+rings.
+
+Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten
+off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ring
+and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring,
+and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work
+over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the
+rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in
+the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in
+the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab
+with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate
+colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to
+the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join
+the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the
+second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring
+to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one
+opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the
+other 5 in the same way.
+
+[Illustration: 245.--Crochet Silk Bag.]
+
+For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4
+long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the
+centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work
+4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single
+crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into
+the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2
+chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2
+chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the
+diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12
+rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the
+lower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of
+double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st
+round: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work
+12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain
+stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of
+the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that
+is remaining after working the crochet.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+246.--_Crochet Sovereign Purse._
+
+Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few
+steel beads; and a steel clasp.
+
+The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised
+rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel
+beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where
+necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in
+coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the
+beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when
+required.
+
+[Illustration: 446.--Crochet Sovereign Purse.]
+
+The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little
+raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the _upper_
+side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both
+sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except
+where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with
+beads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without
+the least difficulty from the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+247.--_Stars in Crochet_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8 or 20.
+
+This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according
+to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.
+
+Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1st
+stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch,
+repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8
+chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work
+(without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the
+centre.
+
+1st branch.--1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a
+purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2
+stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18
+chain.
+
+2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between
+over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double
+over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the
+last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the
+leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the
+second branch.
+
+1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to form
+a circle.
+
+[Illustration: 247.--Stars in Crochet.]
+
+2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitch
+work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in each
+of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st
+round.
+
+3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work in
+double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between,
+then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. Before
+beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of the
+circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained;
+cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of the
+branches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:--
+
+1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purl
+under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet to
+the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make a
+slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five times
+more.
+
+2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual--that
+is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain. Now work 1 trefoil
+(thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1
+double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4
+chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from
+*.
+
+Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+248.--_Crochet Purse over Rings._
+
+Materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of maize
+coarse purse silk.
+
+Work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches; this is the
+centre ring for the bottom of the purse.
+
+[Illustration: 248.--Crochet Purse over Rings.]
+
+Then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take another ring
+and work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6 rings, then work round
+the other half of each ring 19 stitches; and when the 6 are finished,
+join the first to the last to make a circle; sew the maize ring into the
+centre of it, then work over 12 rings with black in the same manner, and
+place them outside the cerise circle. Then work over 16 rings with maize
+colour, and join them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; they
+are to stand up to form the sides of the purse. Work over 16 rings with
+cerise, and these you can join one to each of the former rounds in
+working the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. Work
+over 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the cerise.
+For the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of the ring a
+stitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the stitch joining the
+8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain, repeat. Then work 4 rounds
+of single open crochet.
+
+6th round: * Work a stitch of double crochet and 1 chain alternately,
+missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a long stitch, make 1
+chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another
+long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a long stitch into
+the next loop, repeat from *.
+
+7th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work
+another long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch
+of double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat from * 3 times
+more, miss the next 1 chain, * work a stitch of double crochet into the
+next 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from
+the beginning.
+
+8th round: Join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2
+chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 2 chain, work
+another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a 4th long
+stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double
+crochet into the 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 2
+stitches of double crochet, * work a stitch of double crochet into the 1
+chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the
+beginning.
+
+9th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work
+another long stitch into the same place, repeat the stitches of double
+crochet with 1 chain between, as in last round, then repeat from the
+beginning. 10th and 11th rounds the same as the 9th. Add a tassel at the
+bottom, and strings run into the last row of open crochet complete the
+purse.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 249.--Crochet Brioche Cushion.]
+
+249.--_Crochet Brioche Cushion_.
+
+Materials: 10 skeins of 12-thread fleecy, of six shades of red (these
+should be most of the darker shades); 2 skeins of white ditto; 1 skein
+of white filoselle.
+
+Make a chain of 196 stitches with the darkest shade of red wool, and
+join it into a circle. Work 1 round of raised spots thus:--Turn the wool
+5 times round the needle, insert the needle in 1 chain, and draw it
+through all the loops, then work 1 slip stitch, insert the needle in the
+next stitch, work 1 double, and begin a fresh spot. Continue in the same
+way all round.
+
+2nd round: Divide the round into 7 parts; work 12 spots with the 3rd
+shade of red, always working 1 double between each spot, and taking care
+to place them between those of preceding round: after 12 spots, work 1
+double, then 12 more, and so on.
+
+3rd round: 3rd shade of red, 11 spots, 1 double.
+
+4th round: 4th shade, 10 spots, 3 double.
+
+5th round: 5th shade, 9 spots, 5 double.
+
+6th round: Same shade, 8 spots, 7 double.
+
+7th round: 5th shade, 7 spots, 9 double.
+
+8th round: Same shade, 6 spots, 11 double.
+
+9th round: Same shade, 5 spots, 13 double.
+
+10th round: 6th shade, 4 spots, 15 double.
+
+11th round: Same shade, 3 spots, 17 double.
+
+12th round: Same shade, 2 spots, 19 double.
+
+13th round: Same shade, 1 spot, 21 double. The pattern of raised spots
+being now completed, continue to work with the lightest shade of red in
+double stitches, decreasing once above each pattern, so as to close up
+the circle gradually. The white flowers are worked over the plain part
+of the cushion with white wool, and silk for the petals, and a black dot
+in the centre. The cushion is stuffed with horsehair and lined with
+glazed calico. A round of thick pasteboard is stitched in at the bottom,
+to make it stand firmer.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette._
+
+Materials: For a large couvrette, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's
+Head cotton No. 8; for pincushion covers, mats, and such-like small
+articles, Boar's Head cotton No. 16 or 20.
+
+A pattern of this description is most useful, as it can be converted to
+so many purposes. Counterpanes, couvrettes of every description, mats,
+pincushions, and a thousand other things can all be arranged from the
+design.
+
+[Illustration: 250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette.]
+
+Each circle is made separately, and joined to the others, as the last
+row is crocheted. Begin in the centre; make 8 chain, insert the needle
+in the first, and make * a long treble stitch, then make 3 chain,
+repeat 4 times from *, always inserting the needle in the 1st chain
+stitch, join the last chain to the 5th of the 1st 8 chain to close the
+round.
+
+2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, * 9 chain, turn, work a slip stitch in
+each of the 9 chain; work round the stem thus made in close crochet,
+working 3 stitches in 1 to turn at the point; miss 1 stitch of preceding
+row, work 2 double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more, making 6
+petals in all.
+
+3rd round: Work at the back of the last row, behind the petals; make 1
+petal between each petal in last row, 1 double crochet at the back of
+each, and cut the cotton at the end of the round.
+
+4th round: 2 double crochet at the point of each of the 12 petals, 5
+chain between each petal.
+
+5th round: 2 treble, 5 chain, repeat.
+
+6th and last round: 1 double crochet in the centre of the 1st 5 chain, *
+5 chain, 1 treble in the centre of the next 5 chain, 5 chain, 1 slip
+stitch in the top of the treble stitch, 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in the
+same place, 5 chain, a 3rd slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, 1
+double crochet in the centre of the next 5 chain, repeat from * to the
+end of the round. There should be 12 trefoil patterns in the round.
+
+For the couvrette join the circles together, as shown in illustration,
+in working the last round. As many circles can be added as may be
+required for the couvrette.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+251.--_Crochet Lace_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40 or 60.
+
+This lace produces a very good effect when worked with fine cotton. Make
+a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row entirely in
+double stitch.
+
+2nd row: * 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, miss 1 stitch under
+it; repeat from *.
+
+3rd row: 1 long treble in the 3rd stitch of the preceding row, * 3 purl
+(each consisting of 5 chain, 1 double, in the 1st of the same), 1 long
+treble in the same stitch of the preceding row, 1 purl, miss 3, 3 double
+in the 3 following stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, 1 long treble in
+the 4th stitch; repeat from *.
+
+[Illustration: 251.--Crochet Lace.]
+
+4th row: * 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of the preceding
+row, 1 purl, 2 long treble divided by 3 purl in the middle of the 3 next
+double in the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *.
+
+5th row: * 2 long treble, divided by 3 purl in the middle of the next 3
+double of the preceding row, 1 purl, 3 double in the middle of the next
+3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. Repeat the 4th and
+5th rows alternately till the border is wide enough.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+252.--_Crochet Border_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12, 16, 24,
+or 40.
+
+[Illustration: 252.--Crochet Border.]
+
+This border is suitable for a great variety of purposes, according to
+the size of the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it will make a
+trimming for couvrettes and berceaunette covers; with fine cotton it can
+be used for children's clothes, small curtains, &c. Make a sufficiently
+long foundation chain, and work the 1st row: * 2 treble divided by 3
+chain in the 1st foundation chain stitch, miss 3; repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: * In the 1st scallop of the preceding row, 1 double, 5 treble,
+1 double, then 1 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the
+four), 1 chain, miss under these the next chain stitch scallop; repeat
+from *.
+
+3rd row: 1 treble in the chain stitch on either side of the purl in the
+preceding row, 5 chain.
+
+4th row: * 2 double divided by 7 chain in the two first treble of the
+preceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper parts of the
+stitch), 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these 10 stitches so as
+to form a loop, 4 chain, repeat from *.
+
+5th row: * 1 slip in the middle stitch of the scallop formed by 7 chain
+in the preceding row, 4 treble, 3 chain, 5 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble,
+all these 13 stitches in the loop of the preceding row, so as to form a
+clover-leaf pattern; repeat from *, but fasten the 4th treble with a
+slip stitch on the 10th treble of the preceding figure.
+
+6th row: In the first and last stitch of the 5 middle treble of the
+clover-leaf 1 double, 7 chain between, 7th row: * 1 double in the 2nd
+chain stitch of the scallop which is above the 5 middle treble of the
+clover-leaf, 2 chain, 1 purl (5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), 2
+chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch of the same scallop, 2 chain, 1
+purl, 2 chain, miss one chain of the scallop, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl,
+2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch, 3 chain. 1 double in the
+middle stitch of the following scallop, 3 chain, repeat from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 253.--Crochet Border.]
+
+253--_Crochet Border_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 24, 40, or
+60, according to the article for which it is required.
+
+On a sufficiently long foundation chain work the 1st row: 1 double in
+each chain stitch.
+
+2nd row: Alternately 1 double, 7 chain, miss under the latter 3 stitches
+of the preceding row.
+
+3rd row: 1 treble in each double of the preceding row, 1 double in the
+middle stitch of each scallop, 2 chain between.
+
+4th row: 1 double on each double of the preceding row, 1 treble on each
+treble, 3 chain between.
+
+5th row: 1 double on each treble of the preceding row, 3 chain between.
+
+6th row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row.
+
+7th row: * 1 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, 4 chain,
+miss 1, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, miss 3 stitches, 3 treble
+in the following 3 stitches, 4 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, 3 chain,
+miss 4; repeat from *.
+
+8th row: Repeat regularly 8 treble in the scallop formed of 4 chain in
+the preceding row, 1 double in the middle of the following 3 chain.
+
+9th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 treble, 1
+long treble in next treble but 2, 2 long treble in each of the 2
+following treble, 1 long treble, 2 treble in the next treble, 1 double
+in the next treble but 2, 3 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip), 3 chain
+stitch; repeat from *.
+
+10th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1
+purl, 2 chain, miss 2 under them, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1
+double in the next chain but 1 of the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2
+chain, 1 double in the 2 chain stitch after the purl of the preceding
+row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain; repeat from *.
+
+11th row: In each scallop of the preceding row 2 double (they must meet
+on either side of the purl); they are divided alternately by 5 chain,
+and by a scallop formed of 2 chain, 1 purl, and 2 chain, only in the
+chain stitch scallops which join the two treble figures work no double,
+but 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_254 to 257.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet._
+
+Material: Berlin wool in two colours.
+
+[Illustration: 254.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet.]
+
+The seat and back of this arm-chair are covered with two round
+couvrettes, worked in crochet with Berlin wool of two colours. They are
+fastened on the chair with woollen braid, finishing off with tassels of
+the same colour. Begin each couvrette in the centre with a foundation
+chain of 6 stitches, with the lightest wool; join them into a circle,
+and work the 1st round in the following manner:--12 double.
+
+2nd round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next stitch of the 1st round,
+inserting the needle in the upper part of the stitch; repeat from * 11
+times more; at the end of this round work 1 slip stitch in the 1st chain
+of this round. We shall not repeat any more the repetitions from * to
+the end of the round.
+
+3rd round: * 4 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding
+round; at the end of the round 4 chain.
+
+4th round: 4 double in each scallop of the preceding round.
+
+5th round: Begin to work with the darker wool and crochet slip stitch,
+inserting the needle in the front chain of the stitches of the 4th
+round.
+
+The 6th round is worked once more with light wool, and consists entirely
+of double stitch, worked by inserting the needle at the back of the
+stitches of the 4th round, so that the slip stitches appear raised on
+the right side of the work, and form a round of chain stitches. The
+middle part of the couvrette is then finished.
+
+[Illustration: 255.--Pattern for Arm Chair Border.]
+
+[Illustration: 256.--Border for Arm Chair (254).]
+
+Illustration 257 shows it in full size.
+
+7th round: * 2 chain, missing 1 stitch of the preceding round under
+them, 1 double.
+
+8th round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding
+round.
+
+9th round: 3 double in each scallop.
+
+10th round, like the 5th;
+
+11th round, like the 6th;
+
+[Illustration: 257.--Couvrette for Arm Chair (254).]
+
+12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th rounds, like the 7th--11th;
+
+17th--19th rounds like the 7th--9th.
+
+20th round: Alternately 1 treble with the light wool, 1 treble with the
+dark; but every treble stitch must be cast off with the wool of the
+colour of the next stitch; that is, a light treble stitch with the dark
+wool, and a dark treble stitch with the light wool. Now and then crochet
+2 treble stitches in one stitch of the preceding round, so that the
+couvrette remains perfectly flat.
+
+21st round: 1 double in every stitch.
+
+The 22nd--31st rounds consist of a double repetition of the 7th--11th
+rounds.
+
+The 32nd and 33rd rounds are made in open work like the 7th and 8th
+rounds.
+
+The 34th round is worked in treble stitches like the 20th round. Then
+work the outer border. It consists of chain stitch scallops which are
+worked alternately with dark and light wool. Illustration No. 256 shows
+a part of the border with the treble round in full size. Work from it
+with the light wool 1 double on 1 light treble stitch of the preceding
+round, 5 chain, 1 double, on the next light treble, throw the wool off
+the needle and let it hang over the right side of the work; crochet with
+the dark wool 1 double on the treble stitch between the 2 double of this
+round, leave the wool on the right side of the work; 5 chain, 1 double,
+on the next dark treble. Take the needle again out of the loop, draw the
+wool on to the right side, and work the next chain stitch scallop again
+with the light wool.
+
+Instead of this border, pattern No. 255 may be worked. It consists of 3
+rounds to be worked after the 34th round of the couvrette.
+
+1st round of the border: With dark wool, * 1 double in 1 stitch, of the
+34th round; 1 double, 3 treble, 1 double, in the next stitch; repeat
+from *.
+
+2nd round: With the light wool, * 1 treble, inserting the needle in the
+next treble stitch of the 34th round, thus working over the double
+stitch between the spots of the preceding round; 1 chain.
+
+3rd round * 3 double in each chain stitch of the preceding round. To
+work the 2nd of these 3 double, insert the needle at the same time in
+the upper part of the middle treble of the 1st round.
+
+4th round: Dark wool, * 1 double in each double of the preceding round,
+miss 1, and work 3 treble in the next stitch but one; the last of these
+3 treble is cast off with light wool, miss 1, and continue to work with
+the light wool 1 double in the next stitch but one, miss 1, 3 treble in
+the next stitch, cast off the last with the dark wool, miss 1; repeat
+from *.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_258 to 260.--Crochet Insertions._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30, 40, or
+60.
+
+[Illustration: 258.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+These insertions are worked with crochet cotton of sizes which depend
+upon the use you wish to make of them. The insertion seen in
+illustration 258 is worked the long way in 8 rows. Make a sufficiently
+long foundation chain, and work the 1st row as follows:--1 slip stitch
+in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 5 chain, miss 3, 1 double in the
+next stitch but 3, repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 1 slip stitch in the middle of the 1st 5 chain, * 3 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.
+
+3rd row: 1 treble in the 1st stitch, * 1 leaf worked as follows: 6
+chain, then without noticing the loop left on the needle 1 long treble
+in the 2nd and 1 in the 1st of the 6 chain; these stitches are not cast
+off separately, but together with the loop left on the needle. Then 5
+chain, miss 7, 1 treble in the 8th stitch, repeat from *.
+
+4th row: 1 double in the 1st of the 5 chain, * 8 chain, 1 double in the
+1st of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.
+
+5th row: * 1 leaf as in the 3rd row, 1 double in the double stitch of
+the preceding row, 5 chain, repeat from *.
+
+6th row: 1 treble in the point of the 1st leaf, * 7 chain, 1 treble in
+the point of the next leaf, repeat from *.
+
+7th and 8th rows: Like the 1st and 2nd.
+
+
+[Illustration: 259.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+The insertion seen in illustration 259 is worked in 6 rows, and is begun
+in the centre on a foundation chain sufficiently long not to be worked
+too tight.
+
+1st row: 4 double in the 1st 4 stitches, * 4 double divided in the same
+way on the other side of the foundation chain, inserting the needle in
+the 1st row into the 2 chain. Illustration 260 shows an insertion which
+imitates darned netting; it is worked on a grounding imitating netting
+with raised figures. The grounding consists of 9 rows. Work on a
+sufficiently long foundation chain the 1st row as follows: 1 cross
+treble in the 1st and 3rd stitch, * 2 chain, missing 2 stitches under
+them, 1 cross treble in the 6th and 8th stitch, repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, miss 4 under them, 1
+double in the 5th stitch, repeat from *.
+
+3rd to 8th rows: 1 double in the middle stitch of every chain stitch
+scallop, 4 chain between. 9th row: Like the 1st. Work from illustration
+square patterns on this grounding, consisting each of 4 leaves; for
+these leaves carry on the cotton taken double in double windings from 1
+double stitch to another, so as to have 4 threads lying close to each
+other; darn these as can be seen in illustration, with single cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 260.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+261.--_Crochet Lace_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30.
+
+[Illustration: 261.--Crochet Lace.]
+
+A particular kind of purl makes this border look very like guipure lace.
+Begin with a foundation chain worked in the following manner:--* 3
+chain, the last of them forms 1 purl; this is made by drawing out a long
+loop on the needle, taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it in
+the chain stitch before the last one, drawing the cotton through it, and
+continuing to work so that the loop out of which the needle has been
+drawn forms 1 purl. All the purl must be equally long; to do this more
+easily the loop may be kept on the needle till a chain stitch has been
+worked in that which comes just before the purl, continue the foundation
+chain, and repeat from *.
+
+1st row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 1 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the nearest purl of the foundation chain; repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 1 stitch
+under it; 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch of the preceding row; repeat
+from *.
+
+3rd row: Like the 1st.
+
+4th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain,
+missing 5 stitches under them; 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *.
+
+5th row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, * 1
+double in the middle of the next 5 chain of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5
+chain, 1 purl, 1 chain; repeat from *.
+
+6th to 9th rows: Alternately like the 4th and 5th rows.
+
+10th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 6 chain, 1 double long treble
+(throw the cotton 3 times round the needle) in the 1st of these chain
+stitches; the stitch is only completed so far as still to leave 2 loops
+on the needle; 1 double long treble in the same chain stitch. This
+stitch is cast off so as to leave in all 3 loops, and the cotton over
+the needle; these loops are cast off together by drawing the cotton once
+through them. This forms 1 leaf, or one-half of the bell-shaped
+patterns. 3 purl, 1 chain, 1 leaf like the preceding one, 1 slip stitch
+in the 1st of the first 6 chain stitches; the other half of the pattern
+is then completed; 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the
+middle stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain,
+1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop
+11th row: 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the following purl, 1 purl (the 3 purl which are
+worked on the 3 purl of the bell-shaped pattern are made in this row and
+in the following one as follows:--Crochet 1 chain after the slip stitch,
+leave it for 1 purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip stitch),
+1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the
+following scallop, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. 12th row: 3 purl on
+the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 3 chain between, 1 purl, 3 chain,
+1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain
+stitches, 1 bell-shaped pattern like those of the 10th row, 1 purl, 3
+chain, 1 purl, 1 chain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+CROCHET D'OYLEYS IN IMITATION OF POINT LACE.
+
+
+262--_D'Oyley No_. 1.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, unite it.
+
+Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 9 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, 1
+double crochet, unite it to the 1st stitch.
+
+Round 2: 3 single crochet up the 3 1st of the chain in last row, *, 5
+long into the loop of 9 chain, 1 chain, repeat from *.
+
+Round 3: 1 long into the 1 chain in last round, 9 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 11 double crochet into the 9 chain in last round, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, 5 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 7: The same as 6th.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 4 chain, repeat from * 5 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 4 long, and 1 double
+crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet over the double crochet in 1st round, 6 chain,
+repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 6 chain in last round 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1
+double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet over the one in 3rd round, 8 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Into the 8 chain 1 double crochet, 8 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 7: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 5th round, 10 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 8: Into the 10 chain 1 double crochet, 10 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 9: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 7th round, 12 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 10: Into the 12 chain 1 double crochet, 12 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 9th round, 14 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 12: Into the 14 chain 1 double crochet, 14 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 13: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 11th round, 14 chain, repeat.
+Work 3 patterns of No. 2 for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it. Into the circle 1
+double crochet, *, 2 long, 3 chain, repeat from * twice more, 2 double
+long, 4 chain, 2 double long, * 3 chain, 2 long, repeat from * twice
+more, 1 double crochet, 7 chain. Repeat from the beginning. In working
+the 2nd pattern, join it to the 1st with the 2nd 3 chain, work 3 leaves
+in this manner, then make only 3 chain, and work a 4th leaf without
+joining it to the 3rd, make 3 chain after 4th leaf, and work a stitch of
+double crochet into last 7 chain, make 3 chain. Work a 5th leaf, and
+join it to the 4th as before, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 7
+chain, 3 chain. Work a 6th leaf in the same way, and join it; but make
+no chain stitch after the 6th leaf. Work 3 patterns of No. 3 for this
+d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 4.--The same as No. 3, only work 4 leaves instead of 6, 2 on each
+side. Work 3 patterns of No. 4 for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 5.--Work the 3 1st leaves of No. 3 This is not repeated in this
+d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 262.--D'Oyley No. 1.]
+
+
+No. 6.--Make a chain of 15 stitches, and unite it. Work into the circle
+1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double, 6 long, 5 chain, 6 double long, 7
+long, 1 double crochet, 7 chain, joining the 7th long stitch to the
+corresponding stitch in 1st leaf, 3 chain. Work the 3rd leaf the same as
+the 1st without joining it to the 2nd, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into
+the 7 chain, 3 chain, work a 4th leaf, and join it to the 3rd, 3 chain,
+and join it to the 1st stitch of double crochet at the beginning of the
+1st leaf. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 7.--Tie a round of cotton about this size O.
+
+Round 1: 20 double crochet into the round.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into successive loops, work 2 into 3rd loop,
+repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 5: Into the 5 chain in last round 2 long, 5 chain, 2 more long
+stitches into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, 5
+chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 8.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round I: 28 double long into the circle.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet between each long in last round.
+
+Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 3 long into the 2 chain, 1 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, 5 chain,
+repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 9.--1st row: Make a chain of 30 stitches, work 1 long stitch into
+the 6th, *, 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat
+from * to the end of the row.
+
+2nd row: 11 chain, *, 1 double crochet on the other side of the chain
+into the centre one of the 3 between the long stitch, 1 chain, turn, and
+work into the 11 chain 3 double crochet and 9 long, 11 chain, repeat
+from * 7 times more, work into the chain stitches at the end 3 loops of
+11 chain with the double crochet and long stitch as before, then work
+the other half of the pattern to correspond. 3rd row: Into the space
+between the long stitches 5 double crochet, 2 chain, repeat. This
+pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 10.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: Into the circle 24 double long, with 1 chain between each.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, 5 chain,
+repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 11.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 20 long into the circle.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet, 6 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 6 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 5: 10
+double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 1 long, 2 long into the next loop, repeat.
+
+Round 7: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. This pattern
+is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 12.--Make a chain of 21 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 30 double
+crochet into the circle. Round 2: *, 21 chain, join it to the 18th, work
+into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2
+long, 7 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long and 1 double
+crochet, 1 single crochet into the 1st double crochet, 3 chain, 4 double
+crochet into the 3 chain, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2
+chain, 4 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3 chain, 4 double crochet into
+the same place, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4
+double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the
+stitches of double crochet at the end, 3 single crochet down the 3 for
+the stem, 9 single crochet into successive loops round the circle,
+repeat from * twice more. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 13.--*, make 9 chain stitches, turn, 1 double crochet into each
+loop, repeat from * twice more, then work round both sides of these 3
+points 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop at the top of each
+point, work twice into the same loop, then 5 chain, 1 double crochet
+into each end, unite the 5th to the last of the centre point of 9. This
+pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 14.--Round 1: * make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, repeat
+from * 4 more times.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet into 6 successive loops, 3 stitches into the
+7th, 1 into each of the next 6 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre 1
+of the 3 in last, 7 chain, miss 6, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. This pattern is
+not repeated.
+
+
+No. 15.--*, make a chain of 19 stitches, unite it, 3 long into
+successive loops, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1
+double crochet into the next loop, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the
+same place, 5 chain, work into successive loops 1 double crochet, 2
+long, 3 double long, 3 long, unite the last to the first, 9 chain,
+repeat from * once more, then 5 double crochet into the 5 1st of the 9
+chain, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each, and 1 into each of the 4
+remaining of the 9 chain. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 16.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, *, work into successive loops 2
+double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, 2 more double crochet into the
+same loop as the last, repeat from * once, make a chain of 24 stitches,
+unite to the 20th, work into the circle, *, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long,
+repeat from * 12 times, work into the 3 chain 1 long, 3 chain, work
+another long into the same place, repeat, join the last with 1 single
+crochet to the last of the 24 chain, 2 double crochet over the 2 of the
+leaf, 7 long into successive loops, 4 double long into successive loops,
+4 long into the next loop, and 1 long into the next. This pattern is not
+repeated. When all these pieces are done, join them as shown in the
+engraving, sewing them firmly together with the same cotton, then work
+an edging round in the following manner:--1st row: 1 double long into
+the 4 chain at the point of the leaf of No. 4 pattern, 7 chain, 1 double
+long into the 2nd 3 chain in the same leaf, 8 chain, 1 double long into
+the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 15 chain, 1 long
+into the 4 chain of No. 6 pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of
+the next leaf in the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain
+from the join of the 11th pattern, 6 chain, 1 single crochet into the
+2nd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd
+5 chain from the last, 6 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the
+last, 12 chain, work into the 2nd 5 chain from the join of the 7th
+pattern 1 long, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 5 chain, 9
+chain, 1 long into the next 5 chain, 8 chain, 1 double crochet in the
+1st 3 chain from the join of 4th pattern, 11 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 6 chain, 1
+double crochet into the last 3 chain of the same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 3 chain of No. 5 pattern, 6 chain, 1 long into the 7
+chain between the leaves of the same pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the
+next 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of the 3rd leaf of
+the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 of double
+crochet from the join of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the
+centre of the 2nd 5 double crochet from the last, 11 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 2nd 5 of double crochet from the last, 12 chain, 1
+double crochet into the 7 chain of 15th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 6th long stitch of the same leaf, 11 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the end of the stem of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double long
+into the 1st 3 chain of the 4th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double long into the
+last 3 chain of the same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3
+chain of the 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 3 chain of No. 16
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of the same pattern from
+the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the
+10th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 12
+chain, 1 double crochet into the centre of the 7 of double crochet in
+12th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 5 double crochet of same
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain in centre of same
+leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 8th
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last,
+10 chain, 1 double long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of single,
+13 chain, and join it to the double long stitch at the beginning of the
+row. 2nd row: *, 12 chain, and unite it, 1 chain to cross, and on the
+other side into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3
+chain, 2 double long, 4 chain, then work down the other side to
+correspond, 8 double crochet into successive loops of the foundation,
+repeat from *, joining the leaves in the 1st 3 chain.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_263.--D'Oyley No. 2._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2
+double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet, 2 double crochet into the next loop, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 9 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 7: 9 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 5th of
+the 9 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double
+crochet, and repeat.
+
+Round 8: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 9 in last round, 11
+chain, repeat. Round 9: 15 double crochet into the 11 chain in last
+round, repeat. Round 10: 15 double crochet into successive loops,
+beginning on the 8th of the 15 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the last double crochet, repeat. Round 11: 1 double crochet into
+the centre one of the 15 in last round, 17 chain, repeat. Round 12: 21
+double crochet into the 17 chain in last round.
+
+[Illustration: 263.--D'Oyley No. 2.]
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: *, 7 chain, 1
+double crochet into the circle, repeat from * twice more.
+
+Round 2: 12 long into the 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 2 long into each loop.
+
+Round 4: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 2 long into the 2 chain in last round, 1 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 5 chain, repeat.
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: Into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double long, 4
+chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 3: 2 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 long and repeat, 4 long at the point,
+finish with a single stitch, 3 chain, and repeat this once more.
+
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, chain of 15 and unite
+it, chain of 13 and unite it, work 6 double crochet into successive
+loops, beginning on the 1st of the 1st loop of 13, 3 into the next loop,
+and 1 into each of the 6 next, 1 double crochet into each of the 1st 7
+of the loop of 15, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 7, 1 double
+crochet into each of the 6 1st of the next loop of 13, 3 into the next,
+1 into each of the next 6.
+
+2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+
+No. 5.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: Into the circle 3 double crochet, 3 long, 3 double long, 5
+treble long, 3 double long, 3 long, 3 double crochet.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet into each of the 9 1st loops, 2 into each of
+the 2 next, and 3 into the next, 2 into each of the 2 next, and 1 into
+each of the 9 next. Round 3: 1 long, *, 3 chain, 1 long into the next
+loop, repeat from * at the end, unite the last to the 1st stitch, 9
+chain, repeat from the beginning; in uniting the last stitch of the 2nd
+leaf, take up the centre stitch of the 9 chain with it, make 5 chain,
+and work a 3rd leaf in the same manner; in uniting the last stitch of
+the 3rd leaf, take up the last of the 5 chain with it, make 9 chain,
+turn, and work 1 double crochet into each, join the last to the last of
+the 5 and 9 chain stitch.
+
+
+No. 6.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 5 chain, repeat 5 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet over the 1st double crochet in last round, 7
+chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 7 chain in last round 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2
+double crochet, and repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last round, 11
+chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Into the 11 chain in last round 3 double crochet, 9 long, 3
+more double crochet, repeat.
+
+
+No. 7.--1st row: Make a chain of 20 stitches. 1 long into the 15th, *, 2
+chain, miss 2 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * to the end of
+the row.
+
+2nd row: Turn, into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double
+crochet, repeat this to the end, then into the 5 chain 1 double crochet,
+2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, work the other side to
+correspond.
+
+3rd row: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last row, 7
+chain, and repeat to the point, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the
+double long, work the other side to correspond. 4th row: Into the 7
+chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single into the last double crochet,
+4 more double crochet into the same place, repeat.
+
+
+No. 8.--1st row: 1 chain of 7 stitches, 1 double crochet into each of
+the 6 1st, 3 stitches into the 7th, work on the other side of the chain
+to correspond. 2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+3rd row: 5 double crochet into the 3 chain, repeat.
+
+
+No. 9.--The same as No. 3 in the 1st d'oyley, only 5 leaves instead of
+6, 2 on each side, and 1 at the end; 2 of these will be required for
+this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 10.--Work the 2 1st leaves of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley; 3 of these
+will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 11.--Work only 1 leaf of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley. This is not to be
+repeated in this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 12.--The same as No. 4 in 1st d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 13.--The same as No. 5.
+
+
+No. 14.--The same as No. 8 in 1st d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 15.--The same as No. 10.
+
+
+No. 16.--The same as No. 11 in the 1st d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 17.--The same as No. 2 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required.
+
+
+No. 18.--The same as No 6 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required.
+When all these pieces are done, sew them firmly together, and work the
+edging round in the following manner:--1 double crochet into the 1st 4
+chain of 9th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of
+same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf,
+10 chain, 1 double crochet in the 4 chain of same leaf, 8 chain, 1 long
+into the 4th of the 5 chain, from the joining of 15th pattern, 4 chain,
+1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5
+chain from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the last 3 chain of 10th
+pattern, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 9
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long
+into the 1st double crochet from the join of No. 6 pattern, 9 chain, 1
+long into the next stitch of double crochet after the long stitch, 16
+chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of 14th pattern, 8
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9
+chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of double crochet,
+9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into
+the 4 chain of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3
+chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from the join
+of 17th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 14 chain of same
+pattern, 14 chain, 1 long into the 4th 5 chain from the join of 16th
+pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 6
+chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the
+last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3
+chain of 2nd leaf, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of
+2nd leaf, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 10th
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of same pattern, 6
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 11 chain, 1
+double crochet into the 4 chain of 11th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the last 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the
+centre 3 chain of 1st leaf of 12th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf same pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 4 chain of same leaf, 10 chain, 1 long into the 5th 3 chain
+from the join of the 3rd pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd
+3 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain,
+1 long into the 1st 14 chain from join of 17th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long
+into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 10 chain, and unite. 2nd row:
+The same edging as to 1st d'oyley.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+264.--_D'Oyley No. 3._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 3 in same
+d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 4 in same d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 5,
+2 patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 7, 1 pattern
+from No. 8; and 1 from No. 10 in same d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 11 in
+1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3
+in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 9 in same d'oyley, and 2 from No.
+10.
+
+Then 1 pattern in the following manner:--Round 1: Make a chain stitch of
+12 stitches, 1 double crochet, 10 long into successive loops, 1 double
+crochet, 1 double crochet at the point, and work down the other side to
+correspond.
+
+Round 2: 2 long into each loop.
+
+Round 3: 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 3rd round, 5 chain,
+repeat.
+
+Work 1 pattern in this way, 1 chain of 14, 1 double crochet into each, 5
+chain, 1 double crochet into the last double crochet, turn, 6 double
+crochet into the circle, with 3 chain between each, into each 3 chain, 5
+long, turn, 1 double crochet between each of the 5 long, with 6 chain
+between each double crochet, turn, into the 1st double crochet 1 long, 2
+chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 treble long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2
+chain, 1 long all into the same place, 1 double crochet into the 6
+chain. Repeat this 5 times more, then work down the 7 of 14, 7 long, and
+7 of single crochet. The edging to be the same as in the former
+d'oyleys. The 1st round of the edging takes up so much space to write,
+that we think it better to leave it to the judgment of the worker. It
+will be seen by the engraving when it is necessary to work a double long
+or long stitch, or a stitch of single or double crochet, and the number
+of chain stitches between must be just sufficient to make the circle
+perfect. The best way is to cut a round of blue paper and place them on
+it from the engraving, then sew them together, and tack them to the
+paper, and work the 1st row of the edging before removing the paper.
+
+[Illustration: 264.--D'Oyley No. 3.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+265.--_D'Oyley No. 4._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Work 3 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 1 pattern
+from No. 4, 1 pattern from No. 5 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 6,
+and 1 from No. 8 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley,
+and 1 leaf from No. 3 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 11 in 2nd
+d'oyley, and the following pattern.
+
+
+No. 1.--Make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 29 double
+crochet into successive loops, turn, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 2 double
+long, 8 treble long into 4 loops, 8 double long, 9 long, 4 double
+crochet, 3 chain, work down the other side to correspond, then 1 double
+crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all round.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 2 double crochet
+into successive loops, * 2 chain, miss two loops, 1 long into the next,
+repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 3 double crochet into
+successive loops, 1 double crochet into every loop on both sides. Next
+round: * 5 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet, 3 long, miss 2
+loops of the foundation, 1 double crochet, repeat from * at the point,
+miss only 1 loop, work 2 patterns of this number.
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 36 stitches, turn, miss 2 loops, 2 long, *, 1
+chain, 3 long, repeat from * 3 times, 1 double crochet, turn, *, 4
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st chain stitch, repeat from * 3
+times, at the point make 5 chain instead of 4, work down the other side
+to correspond, turn, and into each of the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 7
+long, and 1 double crochet, at the point 10 long instead of 7, 2 double
+crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 28, turn, miss 12 loops, 1 single
+crochet, then into the circle 20 long, turn, 1 double crochet, 5 chain,
+miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain in last
+row, 5 chain, repeat, turn, into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 7 chain,
+repeat, turn, into the 7 chain 1 double crochet, 1 long, 7 double long,
+1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem, 1 double crochet,
+1 long, 4 double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 1 chain of 14, turn,
+miss 3 loops, 10 long, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, turn, 1
+double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, into the 3 chain 1
+double crochet, 5 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem in
+double crochet.
+
+
+[Illustration: 165.--D'Oyley No. 4.]
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: Into the
+circle 16 long. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop, 3 chain after
+each. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, repeat. Round
+4: 4 long into the 3 chain, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet, make 3
+chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. *, for the leaves, 1 chain of 22, turn, 4
+double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, 1 chain
+to cross the stem, on the other side 1 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double
+long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 2 double crochet at the point, work down
+the other side to correspond, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1 chain of
+8, repeat from *, 1 chain of 12, and unite it to the 3 chain of the
+round, turn, 12 double crochet down the stem, work another leaf in the
+same manner, then work a stem of 8, and make another leaf the same as
+before, finish with a stem of 8.
+
+
+No. 5.--Round 1: Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it, 1 double
+crochet, miss 3 loops, 12 chain, repeat twice more. Round 2: Into the 12
+chain 2 double crochet, 13 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 2
+double crochet into successive loops, 13 long into successive loops, 2
+double crochet into successive loops, repeat. Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain,
+miss 3 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 2 double crochet, 5
+long, 2 double crochet, repeat.
+
+
+No. 6.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 double
+crochet into each loop. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop. Round
+3: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. Round 4: 1
+long, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 3 double
+crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 3 more
+of double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. Round 6: 1
+long into the 4 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 7: Into the 7 chain 4
+double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet,
+4 more double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. When all
+these pieces are done sew them together, as shown in the engraving, and
+work the edging to correspond with the other d'oyleys.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+266.--_D'Oyley No. 5._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and
+1 skein of fine embroidery cotton, by the same makers.
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 5 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 7 chain 11 stitches of double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 11, 9 chain, miss 5 loops,
+1 double crochet into the next, 9 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 9 chain 13 double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 13, 7 chain, miss 3 loops,
+repeat.
+
+Round 6: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, and repeat.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 7 times more.
+
+Round 2: 6 chain, miss the 1st, then work into successive loops 2 double
+crochet and 3 long, 1 double crochet into the 1 double crochet in 1st
+round, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 5 chain, and repeat.
+
+Round 4: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double
+crochet, 3 long, 1 double long, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain,
+repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in the 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Same as 4th.
+
+Round 7: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 5th round, 6 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 8: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double
+crochet, 3 long, 2 double long.
+
+Round 9: Same as 7th. Round 10: Same as 8th. Two of these patterns will
+be required for this d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 266.--D'Oyley No. 5.]
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 16, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next,
+repeat.
+
+Round 2: 6 double crochet into successive loops, 5 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the last double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3rd of the 6, 13 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 5: 1 long and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each.
+
+Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 1 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the next chain, 5 chain, work another double crochet into the same
+place, 1 chain, repeat.
+
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 6 times more.
+
+Round 2: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double
+crochet, 3 long, and 2 double long, 1 double crochet into the last of
+the 5 double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet at the top of the point, 4 chain, miss 1 loop,
+1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet
+into the next, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1 in last round. Work
+the other side of the point to correspond. Two of these patterns will be
+required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 5.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops, 5 double
+crochet and 2 long, miss 1 of the last round, work 4 double crochet into
+successive loops, repeat 3 times more, at the end of the round work 4
+more double crochet.
+
+Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all, round the 4
+points and 2 stitches beyond the 4th, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into
+each of the 7, finish the round with 3 chain and 1 double crochet as
+before.
+
+
+No. 6.--Make a chain of 5 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 4 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, repeat till 5
+double crochet are done, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: Same as 2nd.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 3rd round, 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: Same as 2nd.
+
+Round 7: Same as 5th.
+
+Round 8: Same as 2nd, only 4 chain instead of 3.
+
+Round 9: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 7th round, 8 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 10: The same as 8th, only making 5 chain instead of 4. Four of
+these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 7.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat twice more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet,
+repeat.
+
+Round 3: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, 11 chain, work
+2 more leaves in the same way, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 4
+chain, repeat round 2 sides of the leaf, 3 chain, repeat the stitch of
+double crochet and 4 chain round 2 sides of each leaf, joining them with
+3 chain. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 8.--1st row: Make a chain of 14 stitches, miss the 1st, and work
+into successive loops 5 double crochet, 5 long, 3 double long, turn. 2nd
+row: 2 double long into each of the 3, 9 long into successive loops, 5
+long into the double crochet at the point of the leaf, 9 long into
+successive loops, 6 double long into the next 2 loops, 9 double long
+into the end of the 1st row, unite the last to the first double long in
+2nd row. 3rd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. No
+loop to be missed at the point, then work with the embroidery cotton a
+smaller leaf on it in satin stitch, raising it first with the cotton.
+
+
+No. 9.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 20 long into the circle.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet, taking both sides of the loop, 9 chain, miss
+1 loop, repeat.
+
+Round 3: Double crochet into the centre of the 9 chain, 7 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 7 chain of last row 1 double crochet, 1 long, 3
+double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, then work 2 patterns from
+No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns with 3 leaves
+from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns with 2 leaves, and 1 pattern with
+1 leaf, work 3 patterns from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley.
+
+When all these patterns are done join them as shown in the engraving,
+and work the edging as directed in the former d'oyleys.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+267.--_D'Oyley No. 6_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop.
+
+Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, and 1 into the next, repeat.
+
+Round 3: Increase to 30 double crochet.
+
+Round 4: 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, 5 double crochet,
+and repeat 5 times more.
+
+Round 5: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 5 in last round, 11
+chain, repeat.
+
+Round 6: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 7: 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st, 12 double crochet, and
+repeat.
+
+Round 8: 1 double crochet into the 6th of the 12, 15 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 9: 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+Round 10: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 1 double
+crochet, 2 long, and 3 double long, miss 5 loops of the last round, work
+1 double crochet, repeat.
+
+Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in last round, miss 1 loop, 1
+double crochet into the next, *, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat from * 4
+times more, repeat from the beginning of the row.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 30 double crochet into the circle.
+
+Round 2: 1 double crochet, 13 chain, miss 5 loops, repeat.
+
+Round 3: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd of the 5 chain,
+miss 1 loop, repeat. Four patterns of this number will be required for
+this d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 267.--D'Oyley No. 6.]
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 double crochet, 11 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 3 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 11 chain, *, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 1st chain, repeat from * twice more, 3 more double
+crochet, repeat from the beginning of the row.
+
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 6, and unite it.
+
+Round 1: 1 long, 4 chain, repeat 5 times more.
+
+Round 2: Into the 4 chain in last row 1 long, 4 chain, work another long
+into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.
+
+Round 3: Into the 2 chain 3 double crochet, into the 4 chain 1 double
+crochet, 11 chain, work another double crochet into the same place,
+repeat.
+
+Round 4: Into the 11 chain 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the 7, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into
+the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet into
+the centre one of the 3 in last round, 2 chain, repeat; then work 2
+patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns
+from No. 4, 3 from No. 6, and 1 each from Nos. 11, 13, and 14 in 1st
+d'oyley, 1 pattern from each of Nos. 3 and 4 in 2nd d'oyley, 2 patterns
+from No. 2 in 5th d'oyley, and 1 pattern each from Nos. 4 and 6 in the
+5th d'oyley. Sew these pieces firmly together as shown in the engraving,
+and add the edging as before.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+268.--_D'Oyley No. 7._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and
+1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.
+
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 16 stitches and unite it.
+
+1st round: 2 double crochet into each loop.
+
+2nd round: 1 double crochet into each loop.
+
+3rd round: 1 double crochet, 9 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat.
+
+4th round: Into the 9 chain 11 double crochet.
+
+5th round: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.
+
+6th round: Into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the one double crochet, work another double crochet into the 2
+chain, 2 double crochet into the next 2 chain, repeat.
+
+7th round: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 2 in last round, 13
+chain, repeat.
+
+8th round: Into the 13 chain 11 double crochet, repeat.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each,
+make a chain of 15 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make a
+chain of 13 stitches, 1 double crochet into each.
+
+2nd row: 1 double crochet into the end of each of these points, then
+work round _both_ sides of these points in double crochet, working twice
+into the end of each point.
+
+3rd row: 3 double crochet over the 3 at the beginning of last row, *, 4
+chain, single crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, work a
+long stitch into the next, repeat from * all round, at the beginning and
+end of the 3rd point miss 2 loops instead of 1, then work a stitch of
+double crochet into the 1st of the 3, 6 chain, miss the 1st, work into
+successive loops 2 long and 3 double crochet, 1 double crochet into the
+last of the 3. This completes the pattern.
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: 2 double
+crochet into each loop.
+
+2nd round: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 2 double crochet into the next,
+repeat.
+
+3rd round: 2 double crochet into successive loops, 2 double crochet into
+the next, repeat.
+
+4th round: 11 double crochet into successive loops, *, 9 chain, miss 2
+loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from *.
+
+5th round: 11 double crochet over the 11 in last round, work into the 9
+chain 5 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the
+chain, 5 more double crochet into the same place, repeat.
+
+6th round: 13 double crochet over the 11 in last round, *, 15 chain, 1
+double crochet over the 1st of the 5 in last round, repeat from *.
+
+7th round: 13 double crochet over the 13 in last round, *, work into the
+15 chain 8 double crochet, 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into
+the 1st of the 5, 8 double crochet into the same place, repeat from *.
+This completes the pattern. Then work a circle in satin stitch on the
+plain part of the pattern with the Fine Embroidery Cotton. Two of these
+patterns will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 268.--D'Oyley No. 7.]
+
+
+No. 4.--Make a chain of 16 stitches, and unite it. * make a chain of 10
+stitches, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 3 double crochet,
+3 long, and 3 double long, unite the last double long to the 4th of the
+16 chain in the circle, repeat from * 3 times more, *, work in single
+crochet to the top of the point and down 6 stitches of the other side,
+then make a chain of 8 stitches, miss the 1st, work into successive
+loops 3 stitches of double crochet, 2 long, and 2 double long, unite the
+last to the 3rd of the next point, and repeat from * 3 times more. Three
+of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. Work 2 patterns
+from No. 2 in the 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the same
+d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 5, and 1 from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley,
+work 2 patterns with 1 leaf from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 1 pattern
+with 2 leaves, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the 5th d'oyley, and 1
+pattern from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, and 1 from No. 6, work 6
+patterns from No. 3 in the 6th d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in the
+same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 6th d'oyley. Join these
+pieces as before, and add the same edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+269.--_D'Oyley No. 8_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and
+1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.
+
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 9 stitches, work a stitch of double
+crochet into each of the 8 1st, work 2 into the 9th, work down the other
+side of the chain to correspond, and unite it.
+
+2nd round: *, Work 1 long, make 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st
+of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat from *. No loop to be missed at
+the point. When this round is finished, make 10 chain, miss the 1st, and
+work into successive loops 2 long, and 7 of double crochet, then make 15
+chain, unite to the 7th, and work into the circle 1 double crochet, make
+5 chain, repeat 5 times more.
+
+2nd round: Work into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, and 1 of
+double crochet, repeat.
+
+3rd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat.
+Three of these patterns are required for this d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 269.--D'Oyley No. 8.]
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches. 1st round: Work 2 double crochet
+into each loop.
+
+2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.
+
+3rd round: Work into the 9 chain 1 long, make 1 chain, work another 1
+long into the same place, make 1 chain, work a third 1 long into the
+same place, make 7 chain, and repeat.
+
+4th round: Work into the centre of 3 long 2 long, make 5 chain, work 2
+more long into the same place, make 5 chain, work into the centre of the
+7 chain 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, work another of double crochet
+into the same place, make 5 chain, and repeat. Two of these patterns
+will be required for this d'oyley. Work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st
+d'oyley, work 1 pattern from Nos. 3, 4, and 6, work 1 pattern with 3
+leaves from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 with only 1 leaf, work 1 pattern
+from each of Nos. 13 and 14 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from 2 in 5th
+d'oyley, and 1 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No.
+6 in 5th d'oyley, work 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, and 2 from
+No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 1 in 7th d'oyley,
+work 2 patterns from No. 3, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in 7th d'oyley,
+then sew them together as before.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+270.--_D'Oyley No. 9_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+
+Pattern No. 1--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite ir.
+
+1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 11 times
+more.
+
+2nd round: Work 1 double crochet into every loop.
+
+3rd round: *, Make 11 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work 10 double crochet
+down the chain, miss 1 loop, work 7 double crochet and repeat from * 5
+times more.
+
+4th round: Work 1 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 10, make 5
+chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops,
+work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 double crochet into the
+point, work down the other side to correspond, make 2 chain, miss 3
+loops, work 1 double crochet, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, and repeat.
+
+5th round: Work into each of the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 5 long
+stitches, and 1 double crochet.
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.
+
+1st round: Work a stitch of double crochet into 1 loop, work 2 double
+crochet into the next, repeat.
+
+2nd round: * Work 3 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat from * 9 times more, work 2 double
+crochet.
+
+3rd round: * Make 21 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in the centre
+one of the 3, turn, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, make 5
+chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, work 7 double
+crochet into the 21 chain, repeat from * 8 times more.
+
+4th round: Work 15 double crochet into each loop of 21 chain, above the
+last 7 work 20 double crochet into the last loop of 21, make 5 chain,
+turn, work 1 single crochet into the last of the 5 chain, 7 double
+crochet, make 4 chain.
+
+5th round: Work 19 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 7 in the
+1st loop of 21 chain, * make 6 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work into
+successive loops a stitch of double, 3 long, 1 double long, then miss 4
+double crochet stitches, work 5 double crochet into successive loops,
+make 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop,
+5 double crochet into successive loops, repeat from * 8 times more, then
+work 12 double crochet. Two of these patterns will be required for this
+d'oyley.
+
+[Illustration: 270.--D'Oyley No. 9.]
+
+
+No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.
+
+1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 9 times
+more.
+
+2nd round: Work into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, make 17 chain, work
+another stitch of double crochet into the same place, make 1 chain, work
+1 double crochet into the next 3 chain, make 1 chain, and repeat.
+
+3rd round: Work into the 17 chain 20 double crochet, work 1 double
+crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into the
+next 1 chain, and repeat.
+
+4th round: Work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last
+round, * work 5 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the
+1st of the 20, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the
+5, repeat from * twice more, then work 5 double crochet into successive
+loops, and repeat from the beginning of the round. Two of these patterns
+will be required for this d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 4.--Make 21 chain and unite it, make a chain of 27 and unite it,
+make a chain of 21 and unite it. 1st round: Work in the 21 chain 25
+stitches of double crochet, work into the 27 chain 31 double crochet,
+work into the 21 chain 25 double crochet. 2nd round: Work 3 stitches of
+double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, work 1 single
+crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat this 6 times more, then work
+3 double crochet and repeat from the beginning in the centre loop,
+repeat this 9 times instead of 7. Two of these are required for this
+d'oyley.
+
+
+No. 5.--Make a chain of 44 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each,
+turn, make 21 chain, work 1 double crochet into the 4th chain on the
+other side, * make 21 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet into
+the next, repeat from * 9 times more, work 1 single crochet into the end
+loop, work 44 double crochet into successive loops, work 15 double into
+the 1st loop of 21, work 4 double crochet into each loop of 21, and 15
+into the end one, then * work 2 double crochet, make 3 chain, work 1
+single crochet into the 1st of the 3, repeat from * all round.
+
+Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 from No. 3, 2 with 3
+leaves, and 2 with 2 leaves, from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from
+No. 6 in same d'oyley, and 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, sew
+them together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+271.--_D'Oyley No. 10_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.
+
+Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 19 stitches, turn, miss 5 loops, work 10
+double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 long, make 3 chain
+stitches, miss 3 loops, work 1 long stitch, make 3 chain stitches, work
+a stitch of double crochet into the last loop, then work into the 1st 3
+chain on the other side, 1 double crochet, 5 long, work into the next 3
+chain 4 long stitches, work 4 long stitches into the next 3 chain
+stitches, then work into the 5 chain at the point 8 long stitches, then
+work down the other side to correspond, * make 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+work 1 long, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch into the same place, make
+1 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, miss 1 loop, work
+1 double crochet, repeat from * 7 times more, then work into the 1st 3
+chain 1 double crochet, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch, * make 1, work
+1 double long stitch, repeat from * twice more, make 1 chain, work 1
+long; all these stitches are worked into the same 3 chain, then work 1
+double crochet into the chain stitch between the 2nd and 3rd long
+stitches, repeat this 7 times more; this finishes the leaf; then make 16
+chain, and work a second leaf the same as 1st, then work 2 double
+crochet down, then make 12 chain, and work a third leaf the same as 1st,
+work 14 stitches down the stem, and work a 4th leaf the same as 1st,
+work 8 double crochet down the stem, work a 5th leaf the same as 1st,
+make a chain of 40 stitches, turn, and work back in double crochet.
+
+[Illustration: 271.--D'Oyley No. 10.]
+
+
+No. 2.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it, *, work a stitch of
+double crochet into the circle, make 13 chain, and repeat from * five
+times more, then work 17 stitches into each of the 13 chain, then work 2
+stitches of double crochet, beginning on the second of the 13, *, make 5
+chain stitches, and work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st of the
+5 chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, and repeat from * 5
+times more; for the stem make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, * work 5
+stitches of double crochet, make 5 chain, turn, and work a stitch of
+single crochet into the 1st, repeat from * 4 times more, then work down
+the other side to correspond; then work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st
+d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 2 with only two leaves, and 2 from No. 6 in
+the same d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, and 3 from
+No. 3 in 6th d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 9th d'oyley, and 1
+from No. 3; work 3 patterns from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, sew the
+pieces together as before, and work the edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+272 _and_ 273.--_Work-Basket in Straw and Silk Crochet-Work_.
+
+Materials: Straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch wide; small
+glass beads; a piece of bamboo cane.
+
+This basket has a cover formed of two pieces. It can be employed for
+many things, and is formed entirely of crochet-work with brown silk
+over straw. A ruche trimmed with beads and bows of brown silk ribbon
+form the trimming of the basket. The straws over which you crochet must
+be damp, so as not to be stiff. They should be of unequal length, and
+when you join the two ends of two straws together, try to hide the
+beginning with the other straws. Begin the basket in the centre of the
+bottom part with 46 stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of this
+first row, working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches,
+the double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the last
+round over wire.
+
+[Illustration: 273.--Bottom of Work Basket (272).]
+
+It is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep the work
+flat. When you have finished the bottom begin the border of the basket,
+which is worked of the same piece with it, and consists of 11 rounds.
+
+It is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds without
+increasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9 rounds
+increase 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the edge may be a
+little wider in the upper part. In the last round add a piece of wire to
+the straws.
+
+[Illustration: 272.--Work Basket in Straw and Crochet.]
+
+The cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. Begin in the middle
+with 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half circle,
+working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each row turn the
+straws, and take care that the rows which are finished form a straight
+line. Each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the last one is worked
+over wire. The two halves are united at the straight sides by a brown
+silk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is sewed on underneath, and which
+forms a sort of hinge; sew on also a piece of wire covered with brown
+silk, so as to make the hinge stronger. Form the handle with a piece of
+bamboo cane 23 inches long, and covered with straws; work over it in
+long stitches of brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of the
+basket; then sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, which
+forms the two parts. Trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats,
+ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+274 _and_ 275.--_Two Crochet Borders_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton Nos. 30 and 80.
+
+No. 274.--Crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border (No. 30
+and No. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of stitches of the
+length required.
+
+[Illustration: 274.--Crochet Border.]
+
+1st row: 1 double in each stitch of the chain.
+
+2nd row: Turn and work on the opposite side of the chain, * 1 double, 11
+chain, miss 7. Repeat from *. 3rd row: * 1 double on the 1st loop of
+chain, 2 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are under
+the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain.
+Repeat from *.
+
+4th row: * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of chain, 3 chain, 1
+treble in the 1st, but before you complete the treble stitch make 1
+chain. Repeat from *. This row completes the upper half of the border.
+The lower half is worked over the 1st row of plain double crochet.
+
+5th row: 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15 chain, miss 9, 1
+double, come back over the loop of chain and work 1 double in each
+stitch, come back again and work 6 small points, each made thus: 5
+chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each of the 3 others, 1
+double over the round scallop. When you have worked the 6 small points
+repeat from *, but always join the 1st point of one scallop to the last
+point of the next scallop. The pattern inside the scallops is worked in
+2 rows with fine cotton. (See illustration.)
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.]
+
+No. 275.--The border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled up with
+lace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl (_i.e._, 5 chain
+and 1 slip stitch in the 1st). When the chain is long enough, turn and
+work the 1st row: Alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch
+between the 2 purl.
+
+2nd row: Turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of 7 chain, 1
+chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre of next loop, and so on.
+
+The 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side of the
+chain with purl. * In each of the 8 first stitches work 1 double, make
+12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked, and work 1 double
+in the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and work 7 small points
+over it. For each point make 3 chain, work 1 double in the 2nd, 1 treble
+in the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double upon the loop of chain. Repeat from
+* 6 times more.
+
+In the following scallops always fasten the first point of one scallop
+to the last point of the preceding scallop. When this row is completed
+fill up the inner part of each scallop with a network of fine thread,
+joining the threads at all the places where they cross each other by 2
+or 3 stitches with a sewing needle.
+
+[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+276.--_Crochet Antimacassar_.
+
+Materials: 18 reels of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton
+No. 10.
+
+[Illustration: 276.--Crochet Antimacassar.]
+
+This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square one, and
+is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a chain of 4
+stitches, and unite it.
+
+1st round: Work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain stitch, work
+another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, repeat.
+
+2nd round: 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain stitches, miss 1
+loop, and repeat.
+
+3rd round: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, make 7
+chain, and repeat.
+
+4th round: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 2
+more double crochet, and repeat.
+
+5th round: 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in last round, make
+9 chain, and repeat. 6th round: Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, *
+make 4 chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5
+chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make 1
+chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round. 7th round: 1
+long stitch into the loop formed with the 5 chain, make 12 chain, and
+repeat. 8th round: Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into successive
+loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next
+loops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double crochet, 5 long
+stitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, work 2
+double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double
+crochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain, and repeat. This
+completes the circle. 120 circles sewn together like the engraving will
+make a good-sized couvrette, 12 in the length, and 10 in the width. If a
+round couvrette is wished, work 1 circle for the centre larger than the
+others; this can be done by repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then sew 8
+circles round the centre one, and increase the number of circles in each
+row till you have made it the size you wish. For the square one, tassels
+are required for the end and sides; these are made by winding the cotton
+over a cardboard 4 inches deep about 80 times, then twist 8 threads of
+the cotton into a cord, cut the cotton wound on the cardboard at one
+end, make 2 inches of the cord into a loop and tie it firmly with the
+middle of the tassel, then turn it, tie a thread tightly round, about an
+inch below the cord, and net over the head; 40 of these tassels will be
+sufficient.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+277.--_Crochet Insertion_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40.
+
+[Illustration: 277.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+The patterns of this insertion are worked in a row, and always two
+opposite circles at a time. Make a foundation chain of 16 stitches, join
+them into a circle, then work a 2nd circle consisting again of 16 chain
+stitches. Work round this circle 24 double stitches, and 24 double round
+the 1st circle; after the last stitch begin again at the 2nd circle, and
+work 10 chain scallops as follows:--3 double in the next 3 stitches, * 5
+chain, 2 double in the next 2 stitches, repeat 8 times more, 3 double in
+the last 3 stitches; work in the same manner round the other circle. To
+get to the next pattern, work 4 slip stitches between the 2 circles in
+the middle of the just-completed pattern, leaving the cotton under the
+work and drawing it through the stitch upwards through the loop on the
+needle; 7 chain stitches, and then 2 circles like those just described,
+and so on.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+278 _and_ 279.--_Tobacco Pouch in Crochet Work_.
+
+Materials: Black purse silk; crimson ditto; gold thread.
+
+The pouch is begun at the bottom, in the centre of the star.
+
+With crimson silk make a chain of 3 stitches, and join it into a
+circle. Work 4 rounds of double crochet, 2 stitches in each stitch.
+
+5th round: 2 crimson stitches, 1 gold stitch, and so on.
+
+6th round: All gold stitches.
+
+7th round: 2 crimson stitches, 2 gold, and so on.
+
+8th round: All crimson stitches.
+
+9th round: 3 crimson stitches, 2 gold, &c.
+
+10th round: Similar to the preceding.
+
+[Illustration: 278.--Star for Tobacco Pouch, No. 279.]
+
+11th round: 4 gold stitches, 3 crimson, &c.
+
+12th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches over the 2 centre gold
+stitches of preceding round, &c.
+
+13th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c.
+
+14th round: 1 gold stitch, 6 black stitches, &c.
+
+15th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c.
+
+16th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches, &c.
+
+17th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 over the black stitches of preceding
+round, and 1 on either side, 4 crimson stitches, &c.
+
+18th round: 2 gold stitches over the centre ones of preceding round, 7
+crimson stitches, &c.
+
+Now work 4 plain crimson rounds, and begin the pattern from No. 279. The
+centre is crimson, and the pattern is black and gold. The border round
+the top is of the same colours.
+
+[Illustration: 279.--Tobacco Pouch.]
+
+Complete the work by 2 rounds of open treble crochet, and 1 round of
+gold scallops.
+
+In the open rounds pass a double cord of black silk, finished off with
+small balls of black silk gimp and gold; and on either side of the pouch
+fasten one of these same balls with two tassels, one crimson and one
+black. The pouch is lined with white kid.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+280 _and_ 281.--_Crochet Rosettes_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 4, 24, or
+40.
+
+These rosettes are suitable for trimming cuffs, collars, and bodices, or
+for making couvrettes, according to the size of the cotton with which
+they are worked.
+
+[Illustration: 280.--Crochet Rosette.]
+
+280.--Make a foundation chain of 22 chain; join them into a circle and
+work the 1st round; 44 double.
+
+2nd round: * 7 chain, missing 3 stitches of the preceding round under
+them, 1 double; repeat 10 times more from *.
+
+3rd round: 1 slip stitch in the first 4 stitches of the next scallop, *
+5 chain, miss the last and work back on the other 4, 1 double, 1 treble,
+1 long treble, 1 double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the
+needle), 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next scallop; repeat
+10 times more from *. Work a wheel in the centre of the rosette, which
+is ornamented with a circle of chain stitch, as can be seen in
+illustration; take up one thread of the wheel with every other chain
+stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 281.--Crochet Rosette.]
+
+281.--Begin the rosette with a leaf-like pattern in the centre, and work
+the 1st row: * 11 chain, miss the last, work back over the following 8
+stitches, 1 double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, 1 double long treble, 2
+long treble, 1 treble, 1 double in the upper part of the chain stitch
+before the last, 1 slip stitch in the lower part of the same stitch. The
+first leaf of the middle pattern is then completed; repeat 6 times more
+from *. Join the first and last leaves together by working 1 slip stitch
+in the 1st of the 11 chain stitch. 2nd round: (Fasten on the cotton
+afresh), 1 slip stitch in the point of each leaf, 12 chain between. 3rd
+round: 24 double in each scallop. The rosette is then completed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+282.--_Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in Applique,
+and Velvet Ribbon_.
+
+[Illustration: 282.--Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked
+in Applique and Velvet Ribbon.]
+
+This trimming consists of 2 strips of crochet insertion, ornamented with
+embroidery patterns worked in applique, and velvet ribbon drawn through.
+They are worked the long way with fine crochet cotton. Begin on a
+sufficiently long foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by
+20, and work the 1st row: 1 chain, * 5 double, on the first 5 stitches
+of the foundation, 1 leaf, as follows:--10 chain, without reckoning the
+loop left on the needle, 1 extra long treble (for which the cotton is
+wound 5 times round the needle) in the second of the 10 chain, a similar
+treble in the first, then cast off the 2 treble stitches together, wind
+the cotton once round the needle, and cast off the last loop with the
+loop left on the needle. Miss under the leaf 15 stitches of the
+foundation, and repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 5 double on the 5 double of the preceding row, inserting the
+needle in the whole stitches, 15 chain stitches between.
+
+3rd row: * 5 double in the first 5 double of the preceding row, 7 chain,
+1 slip stitch in every other stitch of the next scallop of the preceding
+row, 7 chain between, 7 chain stitches; repeat from *.
+
+4th row: * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of the preceding row,
+3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of each of the 8 scallops,
+consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row, 3 chain between, 3 chain;
+repeat from *. These 2 last rows (the third and fourth) are repeated on
+the other side of the foundation chain.
+
+When the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together so that
+2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the embroidery patterns
+and velvet ribbon.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+283.--_Crochet Insertion_.
+
+This pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers or
+pillow-cases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. If the
+insertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower border
+on which the button-holes are made. Begin the insertion in the middle of
+one of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain of 9 stitches;
+join them into a circle by making 1 slip stitch, and crochet thus:--*
+10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the circle, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4
+slip stitches in the next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5
+double divided by 5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten the
+thread after having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slip
+stitch to the 1st double stitch of this round. This completes the
+star-like figure. Work on one side of these figures the following
+rows:--
+
+1st row: * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four placed together, 3
+chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the last of
+the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st scallop of the following 4
+placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1
+treble in the 3rd scallop, 3 chain. Repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, * miss 3
+stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch. Repeat from *.
+
+3rd row: * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on the next 3
+stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from *.
+
+4th row: 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding row, * 4 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3 double on the next 3
+stitches of the preceding row. Repeat from *. After having worked these
+four rows likewise on the other side of the star figures, work over the
+last the following 5 rows for the button-holes:--
+
+1st row: 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double in the next
+purl. Repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row.
+
+3rd row: Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which miss 7 stitches.
+4th row: Like the 2nd row.
+
+5th row; * 3 double on the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl (4
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double stitch). Repeat from *.
+
+[Illustration: 283.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+284.--_Crochet Insertion_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30.
+
+This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton on a
+double foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl stitches
+as follows:--1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1 purl, consisting
+of 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1 double in the next
+stitch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work centre consists of 6 rows of
+scallops; the 1st of these rows is worked on the other side of the
+foundation chain; 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop, 5
+chain between, then 1 row of slip stitches, and finally a row of purl
+stitches like the 1st row of the insertion. For the raised flowers,
+which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make a
+foundation chain of 10 stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from
+illustration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the
+1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of
+the 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1
+long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then 1
+slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches under them,
+1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. Each following row consists
+of 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop of the preceding row,
+9 chain between. Then work the 1st row of the border on the other side
+of the insertion; 1 double in the 1st stitch of the foundation,
+inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times
+more from *, and the flower is completed.
+
+[Illustration: 284.--Crochet Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+285.--_Crochet Garter_.
+
+Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round white
+elastic cord; a pearl button.
+
+This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord;
+the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread.
+
+[Illustration: 285.--Crochet Garter.]
+
+Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool; take the
+elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work over
+it. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completed
+in the course of the two first rounds; the button-hole is made at the
+beginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 stitches, and, when you
+come to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain.
+Increase the number of stitches at either end of the garter, to round it
+off. When the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then
+a plain red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately
+1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first, missing
+1 stitch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl button to correspond with the
+button-hole. The garter would be both more elegant and more elastic if
+worked entirely in silk.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+286.--_Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton, and a needle
+to match.
+
+This pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of old
+guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and sleeves,
+and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size. Both strips of
+rosettes join at that place, and one is continued for the part round the
+bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the pattern there are 42 rosettes
+round the bosom, and 14 round each sleeve. These rosettes are fastened
+one to another in the course of the work. They are made in the following
+manner:--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and join it into a ring. 1st round:
+8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain, which forms a purl (the 3 first
+chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the
+ring. Repeat 6 times from *. Instead of the last treble, work a slip
+stitch to fasten the end of the round to the 3 chain of the beginning,
+which thus form 1 treble. 2nd round: 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned
+as 1 treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain.
+Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the beginning. 3rd
+round: On each scallop of preceding round work 2 double, 1 purl, 2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This completes the rosette.
+Each rosette is fastened to the last by joining the 2 middle purl of
+both. In the illustration, which is full-size, the purl that are to be
+joined to those of another rosette are marked by a cross. The joining
+between the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same
+manner. The space left between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star
+formed of chain stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk.
+For this star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms the
+centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8 purl
+that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch. Repeat 7
+times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them together 3 of
+these stars are required for each shoulder.
+
+[Illustration: 286.--Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise.]
+
+For the Border.--It is worked at the same time both round the bosom and
+sleeves. 1st round: * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st scallop of
+the rosette, which we will call the _first rosette_; 5 chain,
+1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd scallop of the same rosette,
+4 chain; then work the kind of cross which comes between each rosette
+(see illustration). To make this cross throw the cotton 3 times round
+the needle, work 1 double treble in the last purl left free of the 1st
+rosette, keep the last loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round
+it, and work a double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd
+rosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the
+loop left on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last
+double treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * at
+each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1 slip
+stitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come to the next
+space, where a cross is to be made. 2nd round: Work alternately 1
+treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over
+the 6 chain. The two rounds just explained are also worked round the
+upper edge, and finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1
+double in one of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the
+2nd of the 6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next
+but one of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain,
+1 chain, 1 double in the next space. Repeat from *. On the upper edge of
+the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1 round of
+crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the needle, so that
+the treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain between each cross.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+KNITTING.
+
+
+
+287.--KNITTING, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is by no
+means so ancient as lacemaking. Knitting has never entirely quitted the
+hands of English and German ladies; indeed, among all good housewives of
+any civilised country, it is reckoned an indispensable accomplishment.
+Knitting schools have been established of late years both in Ireland and
+Scotland, and Her Majesty the Queen has herself set an example of this
+industry, as well as largely patronised the industrial knitters of
+Scotland. Of the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at present
+ignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the following
+instructions are offered.
+
+To knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread, cotton,
+silk, or wool are required.
+
+Knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the size to be
+used depends entirely upon the material employed, whether thread,
+cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting. As the size of the
+needles depends upon that of the cotton, a knitting gauge is used (see
+No. 287). The gauge (page 290) is the exact size of Messrs. H. Walker
+and Co.'s knitting gauge. Our readers will remark that English and
+foreign gauges differ very essentially; the finest size of German
+needles, for example, is No. 1, which is the size of the coarsest
+English wooden or ivory needle. Straight knitting is usually done with
+two needles only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &c., three,
+four, and five needles are employed.
+
+[Illustration: 287.--Knitting Gauge.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+288.--_Casting On_.
+
+This term is used for placing the first row or round of knitting
+stitches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two ways--by
+"knitting on" the stitches, or as follows:--
+
+Hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left hand,
+throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a loop, and pass
+the needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly round the needle, pass
+it through the loop, and draw up the thread; this forms the first stitch
+(see No. 288).
+
+[Illustration: 288.--Casting On.]
+
+
+289.--_To Knit On_.
+
+[Illustration: 289.--Knitting On.]
+
+Take the needle on which the stitches are cast in the left hand, and
+another needle in the right hand--observe the position of the hands (No.
+289). Hold the left-hand needle between the thumb and third finger,
+leaving the first finger free to move the points of the needles. (The
+wonderful sense of touch in the first or index finger is so delicate,
+that an experienced knitter can work without ever looking at her
+fingers, by the help of this touch only--in fact, knitting becomes a
+purely mechanical labour, and as such is most useful.) Insert the point
+of the right-hand needle in the loop or stitch formed on the left-hand
+needle, bring the thread once round, turning the point of the needle in
+front under the stitch, bringing up the thread thrown over, which in
+its turn becomes a stitch, and is placed on the left-hand needle.
+
+
+290.--_Simple Knitting (plain)_.
+
+[Illustration: 290.--Plain Knitting.]
+
+Pass the right-hand needle into the 1st stitch of the left-hand needle,
+at the back throw the thread forward, and with the first finger pass the
+point of the needle under the stitch in forming a fresh stitch with the
+thread already thrown over, as in "knitting on," only, instead of
+placing the newly-formed stitch on the left-hand needle, leave it on the
+right-hand needle, and let the stitch drop off the point of the
+left-hand needle. Continue thus until all the stitches are taken from
+the left to the right-hand needle, and the row is then complete.
+
+
+291.--_To Purl, Pearl, or Seam_.
+
+Seaming or purling a stitch is done by taking up the stitch _in front_
+instead of at the back, throwing the thread over and knitting the stitch
+as in plain knitting; but before beginning to purl, the thread must be
+brought in front of the needle, and if a plain stitch follows, the
+thread is passed back after the purl stitch is made (see No. 291).
+[Illustration: 291.--Purling.]
+
+
+292.--_To Increase_.
+
+Increasing or making a stitch is done by throwing the thread once round
+the needle and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 292.--Increasing.]
+
+
+293.--_To Decrease_.
+
+This is done in two ways: _firstly_, taking up two stitches and knitting
+them together as one; _secondly_, by taking up a stitch without knitting
+it, called slipping, then by knitting the following stitch in the usual
+way, and then slipping the 1st (unknitted) over the 2nd (knitted) (see
+No. 293). When it is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed
+thus:--Slip one, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknitted
+stitch over the two knitted together.
+
+[Illustration: 293.--Decreasing.]
+
+
+294.--_Round Knitting_.
+
+To knit a round four or five needles are used; it is thus that
+stockings, socks, cuffs, mittens, &c., are made. To knit with four
+needles, cast on, say, 32 stitches upon one needle, insert a second
+needle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on 30 stitches; proceed
+in a similar way with a third needle, but casting on 28 only; when this
+is done, knit the two extra stitches on the first needle on to the last;
+this makes 30 stitches upon each needle, and completes the round.
+
+
+295.--_Casting Off_.
+
+Knit two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slip the first stitch
+over the second; continue this to the end of the row. _Note_.--The last
+knitted row, before casting off, should be knitted loosely.
+
+
+296.--_To Pick up a Stitch_.
+
+This is done by taking up the thread between two stitches and forming a
+stitch with it.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The following Designs of New Stitches can be used for a variety of
+work:--
+
+297.--_Peacock's Tail Pattern_.
+
+Needles, wood or ivory; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 297.--Peacock's Tail Pattern.]
+
+Cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, as it takes nine
+stitches for each pattern, and two for each border; the border, which
+is in plain knitting, will not be mentioned after the first row.
+
+1_st Row_.--2 plain for border; 2 plain *, make 1, 1 plain, repeat this
+four times from *, make 1, 2 plain; repeat from the beginning--then 2
+plain for border.
+
+2_nd Row_.--2 purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat.
+
+[Illustration: 298.--Spiral Stitch.]
+
+3_rd Row_.--Take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 together; repeat.
+
+4_th Row_.--Purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 together; repeat.
+
+5_th Row_.--Take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2 together.
+
+Begin from the 1st row.
+
+Thirteen stitches are large enough for a stripe for a sofa-cover. These
+stripes should be sewn together after all are finished.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+298.--_Spiral Stitch_.
+
+Materials: Needles, thick steel or bone; double wool.
+
+This stitch is far more effective worked in thick wool than in cotton.
+It is done in stripes alternately wide and narrow. For wide stripes cast
+on twenty-one stitches, for narrow fifteen; this without counting the
+first and last stitch, the first being slipped, the last always plainly
+knitted.
+
+1_st Row_.--Purl 3 together to end of row.
+
+2_nd Row_.--Make 1, * 1 plain, make 2, repeat from * end by making the
+last stitch before the plain knitted one at end of row.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration 299.--Knotted Stitch.]
+
+299.--_Knotted Stitch_.
+
+Materials: Needles, wood or ivory; double wool.
+
+Cast on 11 stitches.
+
+1_st Row_.--All plain, throwing the wool twice round the needle before
+each stitch.
+
+2_nd Row_.--Each stitch on the needle is now composed of 3 threads of
+wool: knit the first plain, the second purl, the third plain; cast off
+the second over the third, and the first over the second; this leaves
+but one stitch; repeat from first row until a sufficient length is
+obtained. This pattern makes very pretty borders.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+300.--_Knitted Moss Borders_.
+
+Materials: Steel needles; moss wool of several shades of green.
+
+Cast on enough stitches for double the width required, say twenty, and
+knit very tightly in plain knitting, row by row, until a sufficient
+length has been obtained. Cut off and place the strip on a sieve over a
+basin of boiling water, and cover it over. When it has absorbed the
+steam, and while wet, iron it with a box-iron. Then cut the strip down
+the centre, and unravel the wool on each side. The threads of wool all
+curling, resemble moss. They are held firmly by the selvedge of the
+knitting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+301.--_German Brioche Stitch_
+
+Materials: Wood or ivory needles; wool.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches.
+
+All the rows are knitted as follows:--Slip 1, taken as for purling,
+make 1, take 2 together. In the following rows the made stitch must
+always be slipped, the decreased stitch and the slipped stitch of the
+previous row knitted together.
+
+[Illustration: 301.--German Brioche Stitch.]
+
+Ordinary Brioche Stitch is made by casting on an even number of
+stitches, and working the rows as follows:--
+
+Make 1, slip 1, take 2 together; repeat. _Note_.--The made stitch and
+the slipped stitch of the previous row must always be knitted together,
+and the decreased stitch of that row slipped.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+NETTING.
+
+302.--NETTING is one of the prettiest and one of the easiest
+accomplishments of a lady. The materials are simple, while the effects
+produced by good netting are most elegant and of great durability. One
+great advantage of netting is that each stitch is finished and
+independent of the next, so that if an accident happens to one stitch it
+does not, as in crochet or knitting, spoil the whole work.
+
+Netting, so easy to do, is most difficult to describe. The materials
+required are--a netting-needle and mesh (see illustration No. 302).
+These are made of bone, of wood, of ivory, and most commonly of steel.
+The wood, bone, and ivory are only used for netting wool, the steel for
+silk, cotton, &c.
+
+The needle is filled by passing the end of the thread through the little
+hole at the left-hand point, and tying it; then the thread is wound on
+the needle as on a tatting shuttle. The needles are numbered from 12 to
+24; these last are extremely fine. The meshes correspond to the sizes of
+the needles, and are made of the same materials. The larger the size of
+the stitch required the thicker the mesh must be selected; indeed, large
+hat meshes are often used for some patterns. A stirrup to slip over the
+foot to which the foundation is attached is required by those who do
+not use a netting cushion, placed before them on the table and heavily
+weighted; to this the foundation is fastened.
+
+The stirrup is made of a loop of ribbon, to which the foundation is
+tied. Some ladies work a pretty stirrup of the exact shape of a
+horseman's stirrup; a loop of ribbon is passed through this, and the
+foundation fixed as before.
+
+[Illustration 302.--Needle and Mesh.]
+
+303.--_To Net_.
+
+Place the mesh under the thread, between the thumb and finger of the
+left hand; it must rest on the middle of the finger and be held only by
+the thumb (see illustration No. 303). Take the needle in the right hand,
+pass the thread over the middle and ring finger and over the mesh, pass
+the needle upwards and behind the mesh in the large loop which forms the
+thread round the fingers, and at the same time through the first stitch
+or loop of the foundation. Draw the needle out, retaining the loops on
+the fingers and dropping them off, the little finger being the last to
+release the thread. As the thread tightens and the knot is firm, the
+loop on the little finger should be drawn up quickly and smartly. The
+next stitches are precisely similar, and row upon row is formed in the
+same manner. Having learnt the stitch, the next task is to make a
+foundation. Tie a large loop of strong thread on the stirrup ribbon, and
+net fifty stitches into this loop, then net four or five rows, and the
+foundation is ready.
+
+[Illustration: 303.--Netting.]
+
+Simple netting as above explained forms diamonds or lozenges. When a
+piece of netting is finished it is cut off the foundation, and the
+little ends of thread that held the stitches are drawn out.
+
+304.--_Square Netting_.
+
+Is done precisely in the same manner as plain netting, only begin from
+one stitch, then net two stitches into this first, and increase by
+making two in the last loop of every row. As soon as the right number of
+stitches is complete diminish exactly in the same way by netting two
+stitches as one at the end of each row until one stitch alone remains.
+These squares are used for guipure d'art and for darning on.
+
+305.--_Round Netting_
+
+Is nearly similar to plain netting. A little difference exists in the
+way of passing the needle through the stitch; this is shown in No. 305.
+After having passed the needle through the stitch it is drawn out and
+passed from above into the loop just made. This stitch is very effective
+for purses.
+
+[Illustration: 305.--Round Netting.]
+
+306.--_Diamond Netting_
+
+Is often called "pointed netting," and is made by netting from one
+stitch, increasing one stitch at the end of each row, and decreasing in
+the same way, as described at page 303.
+
+307.--_To Net Rounds_.
+
+To form a circle, as for a purse, the needle must pass through the first
+stitch, keeping the last three or four on the mesh and removing this
+when required by the work.
+
+308.--_"English" Netting_
+
+Is made as follows:--Net a row of plain netting, begin the second row by
+netting the second stitch, then net the first; repeat, always passing by
+one stitch and taking it up.
+
+_3rd Row_.--Plain.
+
+_4th Row_.--Begin by a plain stitch, then continue as in the 2nd row.
+
+_5th Row_.--Plain.
+
+[Illustration: 308.--"English" Netting.]
+
+309.--_Lace Edging_.
+
+Begin by one stitch and net two in one at the end of each row until as
+many stitches are required for the narrowest part of the edge. *
+Increase one then in the two loops until the point of the edge or
+scallop is reached; at the next row leave the squares which form the
+point, and begin from *.
+
+310.--_Open Lace_.
+
+This kind of edging is made with two meshes of different sizes and
+extremely fine crochet cotton.
+
+Tie the thread to the foundation, net 3 rows with the small mesh of the
+required length.
+
+_4th Row_.--On the large mesh, one stitch in each stitch.
+
+_5th Row_.--On the small mesh take 3 stitches together to form 1 loop;
+repeat to end of row.
+
+_6th Row_.--On the large mesh make 5 loops in each stitch; repeat to end
+of row.
+
+[Illustration: 310.--Open Lace.]
+
+_7th Row_.--On the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4 first stitches,
+pass over the 5th, repeat to end.
+
+_8th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first
+stitches, pass over the 4th; repeat.
+
+_9th Row_.--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first
+stitches, pass over the 3rd; repeat.
+
+This lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim opera-caps,
+children's hoods, &c.
+
+311.--_Shell Border_.
+
+This border is intended as an edging for square netting for
+couvrettes, d'oyleys, &c. The mesh must be three times as
+long as that employed for the square netting.
+
+Make 12 stitches in the first stitch of the edge, pass over 8,
+make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. Then take the mesh used
+for the square netting, and net one stitch in each stitch, take
+a still smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row of
+one stitch in each stitch.
+
+This border forms a very appropriate edging for all articles
+in square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for trimming guipure
+d'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging the
+work; two sets of shells must be worked at the corners when
+a little fulness is required.
+
+[Illustration: 311.--Shell Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+KNITTING AND NETTING
+PATTERNS
+
+
+312.--_Knitted Sock for a Child._
+
+Materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single Berlin wool; 1 yard of narrow
+pink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins.
+
+This sock fits well, and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two pins,
+backwards and forwards. Cast on 22 stitches and knit 22 rows, but
+increase once at the end of every other row on the right side of the
+work, so that there are 33 stitches in the 22nd row. Now cast off 28
+stitches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every other
+row. Now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other
+row; this forms the toe. Cast on 28 stitches on the same needle, and
+knit 22 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row, and
+cast off. Pick up the 68 stitches on the upper part of shoe, and knit 20
+rows, alternately 2 plain and 2 purl rows, decreasing 1 stitch on each
+side of the 12 stitches in every other row, which forms the toe and
+front of sock. Knit 14 rows of 2 plain, 2 purl stitches alternately,
+then 3 open rows with 1 plain row between. The open rows are worked as
+follows:--* Purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1
+open row, 1 plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewn together down the
+back of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to form
+the toe.
+
+[Illustration: 312.--Knitted Sock.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+313.--_Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers,
+Couvrettes, Antimacassars, &c._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton; 5 steel
+knitting-needles of a corresponding size.
+
+[Illustration: 313.--Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette
+Covers, &c.]
+
+According to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful square
+makes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes, &c. &c. If
+worked with Evans's cotton No. 10, it will be suitable for the
+first-mentioned purpose. Begin the square in the centre, cast on 8
+stitches, 2 on each needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the
+1st round. 2nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1; repeat
+3 times more from *.
+
+3rd round: Plain knitting. This knitted round is repeated after every
+pattern round. We shall not mention this again, nor the repetition from
+*.
+
+4th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.
+
+6th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.
+
+8th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.
+
+The 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in every
+other round the number of stitches between the 2 stitches formed by
+throwing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in the 18th round 15
+stitches are knitted between.
+
+20th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+22nd round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the
+knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+24th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw
+the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, draw the
+slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1.
+
+26th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over
+the last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, draw the
+first over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, three times
+alternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+28th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, four times
+alternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit
+1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; knit 1, knit 2 together,
+knit 1, four times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1.
+
+30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, six times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, knit 1 six times alternately, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+32nd round: Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 6 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches
+together, 6 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+34th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, knit 1, 7 times alternately knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+36th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 stitches
+together, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+38th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the, slipped
+over the knitted stitch, 8 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+40th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times
+alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches
+together as 1 stitch, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1. You now have 41 stitches on each needle; knit 1 round, and cast
+off. When completed, the squares are joined together on the wrong side.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+314.--_Knitted Sleeping Sock._
+
+Materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces light
+blue fleecy.
+
+[Illustration: 314.--Knitted Sleeping Sock.]
+
+These socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond pattern,
+and in rounds like a stocking. Begin at the upper part of the sock; cast
+on 103 stitches with blue wool on pretty thick steel knitting-needles,
+and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as follows:--
+
+1st round: Quite plain.
+
+2nd round: Purled; both these rounds are worked with blue wool.
+
+3rd to 6th rounds: Knitted plain with white wool.
+
+7th round: With blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through the next stitch
+of the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out as a loop, keep it
+on the needle, knit again 3 stitches, and so on. 8th round: With blue
+wool; the loop which has been taken up on the preceding round is purled
+off together with the preceding stitch. Repeat the 3rd and 8th rounds
+twice more; the loop of one round must be placed between those of the
+preceding one. Then knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2
+stitches knitted, 2 stitches purled, then work the foot in the diamond
+pattern in the same way as usual for a stocking. The heel is formed by
+leaving 23 stitches on each side the seam stitch, and knitted backwards
+and forwards in the diamond pattern. At the toe decrease so that the
+decreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. This is obtained by
+knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches of the 1st needle together; on the 2nd
+needle slip the 4th stitch before the last, knit the next stitch and
+draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one; decrease in the same
+manner on the other 2 needles of this round. Repeat these decreasings
+exactly in the same direction and at the same places, so that there are
+always 4 stitches between the 2 decreasings at the end and at the
+beginning of 2 needles; they always take place after 3 or 2 plain
+rounds, and at last after 1 plain round. The remaining stitches are
+knitted off 2 and 2 together. To complete the sock, the outline of the
+sole is marked by working slip stitches with blue wool in crochet all
+round it; work also slip stitches on the selvedge stitch of the heel.
+The stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops in
+blue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_315 and 316.--Netted Fichu or Cape._
+
+Material: Fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle and
+meshes.
+
+This fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk used three
+or four times double. It may be worn as an evening wrap, either over a
+cap or on the hair, or as a necktie. The ground in our pattern is white,
+the border blue. The illustration of the ground and of the border, in
+full size, will serve as a guide for the size of the meshes to be used.
+For the ground cast on the first mesh, with white silk, 56 stitches;
+work 2 rows on the 56 stitches. From the 3rd row, always miss the last
+stitch, so that each row is decreased 1 stitch. Continue in this manner
+till the 39th row, when there will be but 19 stitches left. From the
+40th row, miss 2 stitches at the end of each row. The ground is
+completed with the 46th row. The 1st row of the work is the _cross-way
+side_; the last, the _point at the bottom_; fasten on the blue silk to
+the 1st stitch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row round the
+ground of the fichu, not forgetting that the stitch on the outer edge at
+the sides must always be taken, and 2 stitches made in the 5th, 10th,
+14th, [Illustration: 315.--Netted Fichu, or Cape, for Evening Dress.]
+18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th stitches at the sides, as well as in each of
+the 2 middle stitches of the last row; in each of the other stitches 1
+stitch should be made. On the corners of the sides increase _once_, on
+the cross-way side, seven times in all. This forms the 1st round of the
+edging or lace.
+
+[Illustration: 316.--Showing the Netting full size for Border of Fichu.]
+
+2nd round of the lace: In each stitch make 2 stitches--still on the
+larger mesh. 3rd round: Always miss the small flat scallop formed in
+last row, and work 2 stitches in the stitch which forms a tight loop.
+Keep thus the same number of stitches, with which work 6 more rounds.
+For the last round, work 1 stitch in each _tight_ loop.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_317.--Lady's Knitted Purse._
+
+Materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet ditto;
+black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a tassel of black beads; 5
+steel knitting-needles.
+
+[Illustration: 317.--Lady's Knitted Purse.]
+
+This purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and ornamented
+with black beads and a black bead tassel. Begin the purse with the black
+silk in the centre of the bottom part, and cast on for one part of it 7
+stitches. Knit 14 rows on these backwards and forwards, in such a manner
+that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other. The 1st
+stitch of every row is slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * On
+that side where hangs the thread with which you work take the back chain
+of the 7 selvedge stitches of the part you have just knitted on a
+separate needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the
+1st row of which is knitted. Repeat 10 times more from *. The stitches
+of several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to be
+hindered in working by too many needles. When the 12th part is
+completed, take the selvedge stitches on the left hand on another
+needle, cast them off together with the cast on stitches of the 1st
+part, and fasten the silk thread. Then take the 7 right-hand selvedge
+stitches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk on which the
+beads have been strung and work 15 rows on these stitches, the 1st row
+from the wrong side, and therefore purled; in the 1st, as well as in all
+the other purled rows, the last stitch must be purled together with the
+next stitch of the next black part. In the purled rows, moreover,
+excepting in the first and last one, a bead must be worked in after
+casting off the 2nd, 4th, and 6th stitches. The stitch must be worked by
+inserting the needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk
+which has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch so
+that it is on the right side of the work. In the following knitted row,
+the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the bead stitch.
+When 12 such red parts have been completed, work again 12 black parts on
+the selvedge stitch of the same, in which the beads are not knitted in,
+but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is completed. Then work 3 times
+more alternately 12 red and 12 black parts; when the last 12 black parts
+have been completed cast off the stitches of the last black part
+together with the selvedge stitches, the 1st on the wrong side; the
+stitches of the 6th part are cast off in the same manner together with
+the selvedge stitches of the 7th. The red parts which remain to be
+worked on the black part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th,
+and the 7th, 8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. Then
+gather all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the 10 parts on 2
+needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the stitches and
+selvedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed on
+the sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk, first on
+the stitches of the one needle, and then on those of the other:--1 row
+knitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch; then work 3 rows
+backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches, which must be
+knitted on the right side; then work 8 rows more in the same manner,
+casting off the 2 first stitches of the 8 rows. Then cast off all the
+remaining stitches, sew the beads on the black parts from illustration;
+also the clasp and bead tassel.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+318 to 320.--_Knitted Antimacassar or Berceaunelle Cover._
+
+Materials: Grey and violot fleecy wool.
+
+[Illustration: 318.--Square for Antimacassar.]
+
+This antimacassar, part of which is seen on No. 320, smaller than full
+size, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are knitted
+separately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine knitting-needles.
+In the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted circle of grey wool. The
+edge of the antimacassar is ornamented with a grey woollen fringe. For
+each rosette cast on 6 stitches with violet wool, and knit 12 rows
+backwards and forwards in such a manner that the work is knitted on one
+side and purled on the other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, the
+first stitch of every row is slipped; * then take the first five
+selvedge stitches of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the side
+where the end of wool hangs down, leaving it unnoticed for the present),
+inserting the needle into the back chain of the stitch (the selvedge
+stitch which is next to the cast-on stitch remains, therefore, unworked
+upon), and knit on these a new part, which must have 13 rows; the first
+row is knitted, and in this row work 2 stitches in the first stitch, one
+purled and one knitted, so that this new part is equally six stitches
+wide. Repeat 8 times more from *. After having worked several parts, the
+stitches can, of course, be taken on the same needle, so as not to
+increase the number of needles. When the 10th part is com-* *pleted,
+take the selvedge stitches of the left-hand side of the same on a
+separate needle, cast them off with the cast-on stitches of the first
+part, and fasten the wool. Then take the 6 selvedge stitches on the
+right hand of one part on a separate needle; take the grey wool, and
+work on these stitches 13 rows backwards and forwards; the first row is
+knitted; it is worked on the right side of the work; in this, and in
+every following _knitted_ row, knit the last stitch together with the
+next stitch of the next violet part. When 10 such grey parts are
+completed (each of the remaining 9 parts consists of 13 rows, and begins
+with one knitted row), take all the stitches and the selvedge stitches
+of these parts on four needles and knit with these stitches, also with
+grey wool 1 row knitted, in which the 6 selvedge stitches must be
+decreased to 3 by knitting always 2 stitches together as 1 stitch; each
+of the other stitches is knitted as usual. Then purl 2 rows with violet
+wool, and cast off.
+
+[Illustration: 319.--Rosette for Antimacassar.]
+
+[Illustration: 320.--Part of Antimacassar.]
+
+For the tatted circle in the centre of the rosette, work with grey wool
+a circle consisting of 1 double, and 11 times alternately 1 purl 3-10ths
+of an inch long, 2 double, then 1 purl and 1 double. The circle is sewn
+on the rosette, from illustration, with grey wool. No. 319 shows such a
+rosette full size. The small squares (_see_ No. 318) are worked with
+grey wool; cast on 36 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and
+purl 2 rows. To form the corners, knit together 4 times 2 stitches after
+every 7 stitches in the first of these two rounds, in the second round
+knit together 2 stitches after every 6 stitches; these decreasings and
+those of the other rounds must always take place, at the same places as
+in the preceding round. Then take the violet wool, and knit 7 rows; in
+the first of these knit 4 times 2 stitches together after intervals of 5
+stitches; no decreasings take place in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows; in
+the 3rd row knit together 4 times 3 stitches as 1 stitch, and in the 5th
+and 7th rows 4 times 2 stitches as 1 stitch. After the 7th round, the
+remaining stitches are cast off together as 1 stitch. Then fasten the
+wool and cut it off. Lastly, sew the rosettes and squares together from
+No. 320 for a cover, and edge it round the border with a fringe of grey
+wool.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 321.--Knitted Border.]
+
+321.--_Knitted Border._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 10 or No. 50 knitting
+cotton.
+
+If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for trimming
+a quilt or berceaunette cover; if, on the contrary, fine cotton is used,
+the pattern will form a very pretty collar for a little boy or girl.
+
+To make a collar, begin by a chain of 220 stitches, and work 6 rows
+backwards and forwards alternately, knitting 4 stitches and purling 2.
+
+In the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows the 4 stitches are purled, and the 2 are
+knitted.
+
+7th row: * Purl 2, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from *.
+
+8th row: Alternately purl 5, knit 2. All the rows with _even_ numbers
+are knitted like this, except that the number of the knitted stitches
+are increased by 2 in each of them. We will not, therefore, henceforth
+mention these rows.
+
+9th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from
+*.
+
+11th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from
+*.
+
+13th row: * Knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from
+*. The pattern is continued in the same manner. The small gores formed
+between the ribs are increased by 2 stitches in every second row. Each
+of these gores has 13 stitches in the 21st row, which is the last. Cast
+off all the stitches after this row.
+
+Take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as that used for the
+knitting work 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch of the
+selvedge, then the 2 following rows for the edging. 1st row: Alternately
+1 treble, 1 chain, under which miss 1.
+
+2nd row: Alternately 1 double over 1 treble of preceding row, 1 purl
+(that is, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the first), under which miss 1.
+Over the first row of the knitting work 1 row of close double crochet.
+The border is now completed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+322.--_Knee-cap in Knitting._
+
+Materials: For 1 pair, 4 oz. pink 4-thread fleecy wool, and a small
+quantity of white ditto.
+
+Begin each knee-cap by casting on with pink wool 114 stitches, equally
+divided upon 4 needles, and joining them into a circle. Upon this number
+of stitches work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches.
+In the 48th round begin the gore which covers the knee; it is worked
+separately backward and forwards, always alternately knitting and
+purling 2 stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 322.--Knee-cap in Knitting.]
+
+After 2 rows change the pattern, so as to form small squares Knit the
+first row of this gore upon 26 stitches slipped off from the last row on
+to a separate needle. At the end of each following row knit the nearest
+stitch of the nearest needle, so as to increase 1 stitch in each row of
+the gore.
+
+Continue in this way until only 42 stitches remain of the ribbed part.
+After this work the remainder of the gore separately, decreasing once at
+the beginning and end of each row till only 26 stitches remain; then
+take up 23 stitches of the selvedge on each side of these 26 stitches,
+and work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches.
+
+The edging at the top and bottom of the knee-cap is worked in crochet.
+With white wool make a chain of 50 stitches; turn and work 1 row of
+crochet _a tricoter_; then work a second row thus: the first part, as
+usual, with white, but coming back, with pink make 4 chain between each
+stitch, work in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain,
+thus forming a small ruche, and sew it on to the edge of the knitting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+323.--_Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool._
+
+Material: Black Shetland wool.
+
+This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern
+(commencing at the corner).
+
+1st row: slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the
+back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together.
+
+2nd row: Knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
+forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next
+row the holes are alternated; the neckerchief must of course be
+increased at the beginning and end of every other row. It measures at
+the upper edge 1 yard 16 inches across from one corner to the other; the
+lower corner is rounded off. The neckerchief is edged with a knitted
+lace.
+
+[Illustration: 323.--Knitted Neckerchief in Shetland Wool.]
+
+The lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross way. Cast
+on 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:--Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
+
+2nd row: Slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the stitch formed in
+the preceding row by throwing the wool forward.
+
+3rd row; Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the
+wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 5.
+
+4th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed in
+the preceding row by throwing the wool forward, purl 13.
+
+5th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the
+wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
+
+6th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing
+the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.
+
+7th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the
+wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2 together, knit 4.
+
+8th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing
+the wool forward in the preceding row, purl 13.
+
+9th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times alternately; knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.
+
+10th row: Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the
+wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.
+
+11th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately knit 2 together,
+throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
+
+12th row: Slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
+forward in preceding row, purl 13.
+
+13th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, 5
+times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2.
+
+14th row: Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.
+
+15th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 2 together, 4
+times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3.
+
+16th row: Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.
+
+17th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, 3
+times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
+
+18th row: Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.
+
+19th row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit 2 together, twice
+alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5.
+
+20th row: Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.
+
+21st row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit 2 together,
+throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
+
+22nd row: Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row.
+
+23rd row: Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit 2 together,
+knit 7.
+
+24th row: Purled. Repeat from the 1st row till the lace is sufficiently
+long. Then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace can be knitted
+somewhat narrower for the upper edge. One of the ends of the neckerchief
+is knotted, As seen in the illustration, and the other end is drawn
+through the knot.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_324 and 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves._
+
+Materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black silk
+elastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons.
+
+This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple wool, so
+that the raised ribs appear black on one side and purple on the other.
+The bodice fits quite close. It is fastened in front with black bone
+buttons and a steel buckle. Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at
+the bottom. Begin at the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast
+on 170 stitches. The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not
+too loose. Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--Slip the 1st
+stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were going
+to purl it, and knit 1. In the next row knit together the stitch which
+has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward,
+slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool forward. In the
+25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as before.
+
+[Illustration: 324.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Back).]
+
+[Illustration: 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Front).]
+
+Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with purple, but as
+the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be alternately knitted
+and purled. Work always 2 rows on the same side from right to left. The
+following 26th row is worked with black wool in common brioche stitch,
+only the slipped stitch of the preceding row is purled together with the
+stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. 27th row: Turn the work,
+with purple wool purled brioche stitch. 28th row: On the same side with
+black wool knitted brioche stitch. After having worked 40 rows all in
+the same manner, begin the front gore. Divide the stitches upon three
+needles, 82 stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for
+each front part on the two other needles. Then work the first 11
+stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that side of
+the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted brioche stitch;
+the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with the wool thrown
+forward, therefore it is a purple rib. After this stitch begin the gore
+with the following 13 stitches. The ribs are then worked so that a
+purple one comes over a black one, and a black one over a purple one. Do
+not work upon the following black stitch; knit the following stitch with
+the one formed by throwing the wool forward. Throw the wool forward, and
+then only slip the black stitch which had been left, so that it comes
+behind the stitch which has just been knitted. This crossing of the
+stitch is repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together
+with the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool
+forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single
+black stitches. The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by throwing the
+wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are then knitted
+together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in opposite
+directions. The three black stitches which are knitted off together as 1
+stitch in the next row form the middle line of the front gore, and are
+continued in a straight line to the point of the gore. The crossing
+takes place twice in this row, but now the black stitch is slipped
+first. After the 24th stitch knit together the following stitch with the
+stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. Then continue to work in
+common brioche stitch to the other front part, where the gore begins
+before the 24th stitch from the end. In the next row, which is worked in
+purled brioche stitch with black wool, take up the black loop between
+two purple ribs after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitch
+which is missing at that place. The 3 slipped stitches in the preceding
+row are purled together as one stitch with the stitch formed by throwing
+the wool forward between the ribs. The loop is also taken up on the
+other side of the front gore in the same manner, as well as on the other
+front part. Then work 6 rows without increasing or decreasing. The
+crossing of the stitch is repeated after every 7 rows, always on the
+knitted brioche stitch side, with purple wool. In the 18th row of the
+gore the 3 middle stitches are not knitted together, but separately, so
+that the pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. In the back 30 stitches
+only must be decreased, two in every 6th row. After the 60th row another
+decreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for the
+neck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch from the
+front edge in every 3rd row. The 5 stitches which close to the neck are
+cast off together with the 5 stitches on the shoulders. Then cast off
+loosely the stitches of the back; take all the selvedge stitches of the
+front on the needles, and knit 24 rows of brioche stitch with black
+wool, making 9 button-holes on the right front part. On the wrong side
+of this part sew on a strip of black silk, with slits worked round in
+button-hole stitch, stitching at the same time into the knitting. The
+following scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round the
+armholes with black wool:--Take the selvedge stitches on the needles,
+work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch purled, thread the
+wool into a Berlin wool-work needle, * cast off 3 stitches together,
+draw the wool through the needle, and take the 2 following stitches on
+the wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from *. Sew on the buttons the
+strips of silk elastic on either side of the black stripe at the bottom,
+and fasten the ends of the latter with the steel buckle.
+
+
+_326.--Baby's Boot._
+
+Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin wool;
+steel knitting-needles.
+
+This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a sock in
+white wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the upper
+scalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red wool, divide
+them on four needles, and knit in rounds as follows:--1st and 2nd
+rounds: With red wool, purled.
+
+3rd to 8th round: With white wool.
+
+3rd round: Knitted.
+
+4th round: * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1, throw the wool
+forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times more from *.
+
+5th round: Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the wool forward are
+knitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at the place where 3
+stitches were knitted together in the 4th round, so that the decreasing
+of the preceding round forms the middle stitch of the 3 stitches to be
+decreased in this round.
+
+6th and 7th rounds: Like the 5th.
+
+8th round: Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left.
+
+9th to 11th round: With red wool. 9th round: Knitted.
+
+10th and 11th rounds: Purled.
+
+12th to 30th round: With white wool.
+
+12th round: Knitted.
+
+13th round to 30th round: Alternately purl 1, knit 1, inserting the
+needle in the back part of the stitch.
+
+31st to 33rd round: With red wool.
+
+31st round: Knitted.
+
+32nd round and 33rd round: Purled.
+
+34th and 35th rounds: With white wool. 34th round: Knitted.
+
+35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. Each
+stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch in
+the next round.
+
+36th to 38th round: With red wool.
+
+36th round: Knitted.
+
+37th and 38th rounds: Purled.
+
+39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if
+you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped
+stitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped stitches.
+
+[Illustration 326.--Baby's Boot.]
+
+Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 stitches
+untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool. 48th to 50th
+row: With red wool.
+
+48th row: Knitted.
+
+49th row: Purled.
+
+50th row: Knitted.
+
+51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern described in the 39th
+round. But as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit
+and purl the stitches. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end
+of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th
+row, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red
+wool.
+
+86th row: Knitted.
+
+87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl
+2, knit 1.
+
+Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th,
+decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the whole number of
+stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the gored part and dividing
+them with the 30 other stitches on four needles. Knit once more in
+rounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round
+purled. In the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together in
+the middle of the back part of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other
+round decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9
+stitches between the two decreasings. The number of stitches between the
+decreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form
+slanting lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by
+knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock part
+is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red
+stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4
+rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside;
+then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid through the open-work
+row in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels to
+match.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+327.--_Knitted Border for a Bedquilt_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 8 white knitting cotton;
+thick steel pins.
+
+Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the border,
+which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows:
+
+5th row: Alternately make 1, knit 2 together.
+
+Then 5 more plain rows.
+
+[Illustration 327.--Knitted Border for a Bedquilt.]
+
+Now begin the pattern:--1st row: * Make 1, knit 1 _slantways_ (to knit a
+stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and from
+right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4 times more
+than from * to the end of the row.
+
+2nd row: Purled.
+
+3rd row: Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways.
+Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
+
+4th row: The same as the second.
+
+The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our illustration. The
+increasing caused by knitting the _made_ stitches is regularly repeated
+in each second row, so that the stitches between the striped divisions
+increase, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the other
+hand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain
+this result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows,
+by purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so
+that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In the
+28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted slantways, so
+that there will be only 6 stitches left for each division; these
+stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. In the 31st
+row they are knitted together, two and two. There remain in each
+division three more stitches, which are knitted together in the 34th
+row. Two rows entirely purled completethe upper edge of the border.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+328.--_Knitted Quilt._
+
+Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles.
+
+This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different colours, and in
+that case each strip should contain 1 row of patterns; or the quilt may
+be composed of wide strips with several rows of patterns, those of one
+row being placed between those of the preceding. In the first case, that
+is if you work narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide
+strips are preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our pattern
+was worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip is
+knitted the short way.
+
+[Illustration: 318.--Knitted Quilt.]
+
+For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20 stitches.
+
+2nd row: Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make 1, purl 4.
+Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2.
+
+3rd row: Slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled in the preceding
+row, and purl all those that were made.
+
+4th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times
+more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2.
+
+5th row: Slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.
+
+6th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times
+more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2.
+
+7th row: The same as the 5th.
+
+8th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and so on.
+
+9th row: The same as the 5th row.
+
+10th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
+the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from *.
+
+11th row: Knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest.
+
+12th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
+over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *.
+
+13th row: The same as the 11th.
+
+14th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
+over, purl 4, and repeat.
+
+15th row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat from * 3 times more;
+knit 2 together, knit 2.
+
+The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are only 4 in
+this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you purl 3 stitches
+instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th made stitch, you purl 4
+more stitches. Repeat alternately these 2 rows of raised patterns, and
+when you have a sufficient number of strips sew them together. Trim the
+quilt all round with a knotted fringe.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+329.--_Stitch in Knitting, for Couvrettes, Comforters, Opera Caps,
+Carriage Shawls, Jackets, &c._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20, or
+fine wool.
+
+Cast on an uneven number of stitches.
+
+1st row: Slip 1, *
+make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. Repeat from *.
+
+2nd row:
+Slip 1, * knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the row.
+[Illustration: 329.--Stitch for Couvrettes, Comforters, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+330 _and_ 331.--_Knitted Veil._
+
+Material: Fine Shetland wool.
+
+[Illustration: 330.--Knitted Veil.]
+
+Illustration 330 represents a knitted veil in reduced size. The original
+was worked with fine Shetland wool in an open pattern; it is edged with
+a knitted lace. Its length is 24 inches, its width 18 inches. Work the
+veil from a paper pattern of a shape corresponding to that of
+illustration 330. Compare the paper shape often with the knitting in
+the course of the work, and try to keep them alike.
+
+Knit the veil in the pattern of the original, or in the pattern of
+illustration 331. For the former one begin at the lower edge of the
+veil, cast on 45 stitches upon thick wooden needles, and work the 1st
+row: * Knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, repeat
+from *.
+
+2nd row: Purled.
+
+3rd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, * throw the
+wool forward, knit 2 together twice, and repeat from *.
+
+4th row: Purled.
+
+5th row: Like the 2nd row. The pattern must be reversed. The pattern
+figures increase with the increasings at the beginning and at the end
+of each row.
+
+The pattern of illustration 331 consists of the 2 following rows:--1st
+row: Slip 1, then alternately throw the wool forward, and knit 2
+together.
+
+2nd row: Entirely knitted; make 1 stitch of the wool thrown forward in
+the last row. When the veil is finished, wet it, and stretch it over
+paper or pasteboard; let it dry, and then edge it with the following
+lace:--Cast on 10, knit the 1st.
+
+2nd row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 9.
+
+3rd row: Knitted.
+
+4th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward,
+knit 2 together twice, knit 4.
+
+5th row: Knitted.
+
+6th row: Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward,
+knit 2 together 3 times, knit 3.
+
+7th row: Cast off 3 stitches, knit 10. 8th row: Knitted.
+
+[Illustration: 331. Pattern of Veil.]
+
+[Illustration: 332.--Knitted Pattern with Embroidery.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+332.--_Knitted Pattern with Raised Embroidery_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8 or 20.
+
+This pattern is worked in rows going backwards and forwards with thick
+or fine cotton according to the use you wish to make of it. The
+star-like figures on the knitted squares are worked with soft cotton in
+_point de poste_. Cast on a number of stitches long enough (19 stitches
+are necessary for the two squares), work the 1st row: * Knit 11
+stitches, alternately 4 times knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward.
+Repeat from *, The 2nd row is worked like the 1st, only purled, in this
+row, as well as in the following ones, the stitch must be knitted with
+the cotton thrown forward _after_ the stitch, the last stitch of a plain
+square with the first cotton thrown forward of the open-work figure. The
+number of stitches in the last must always be 8. The pattern consists
+alternately of these two rows. Each pattern contains 12 rows, with the
+13th the squares are reversed. The star figures are embroidered with
+double cotton by working 5 chain stitch in the middle of each square;
+draw the needle underneath the knitting to the next centre of a square.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+333 _and_ 334.--_Knitted Table Cover, (see page 578.)_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s coarse knitting cotton; thick
+steel knitting-needles.
+
+[Illustration: 333.--Table-Cover Border.]
+
+This cover is suitable for either a large or a small table, as the
+pattern may be increased as much as required. It is suitable for
+antimacassars. Cast on 4 stitches, join them into a circle, and work the
+1st round four times alternately. Throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+2nd round: Entirely knitted.
+
+3rd round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. Repeat 7 times more from
+*. After every pattern round knit 1 round plain. Until after the 21st
+round, we shall not mention this any more.
+
+5th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. From the
+
+7th to the 12th round the knitted stitches in every other round increase
+by 1 stitch, so that in the 12th round there are 7 stitches between
+those formed by throwing the cotton forward.
+
+13th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2
+together *.
+
+15th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together *.
+
+17th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together *.
+
+19th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, *.
+
+21st round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 *.
+
+22nd round: * Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3
+*.
+
+23rd round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3 *.
+
+24th round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5 *.
+
+25th round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 4.
+
+26th round: Entirely knitted *.
+
+27th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1 *.
+
+28th round: Entirely knitted.
+
+29th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 *.
+
+30th round: Entirely knitted.
+
+31st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3 *.
+
+32nd round: Entirely knitted.
+
+33rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 4 *.
+
+34th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5
+*.
+
+35th round: * Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 5 *.
+
+36th round: * Knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 6
+*.
+
+37th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5 three times, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1 *.
+
+38th round: * Knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 8
+*.
+
+39th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3. throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 *.
+
+40th round: * Knit 9, knit 3 together, knit 10*.
+
+41st round: * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 15, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 3 *.
+
+42nd round: * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 4
+*.
+
+43rd round: * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 13, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 4 *.
+
+44th round: * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 5
+*.
+
+When the cover is completed, edge it all round, with the following
+border worked the short way:--Cast on 5 stitches and knit the 1st row,
+slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2.
+
+2nd row: Slip 1, knit the rest. Repeat this row after every pattern row.
+
+3rd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+5th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.
+
+7th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+9th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.
+
+11th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
+
+13th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2.
+
+15th round: Cast off 8 stitches, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+16th round: Entirely knitted. Begin again at the 1st row, knit a
+sufficient length of the border, and then trim the cover with it on the
+outer edge.
+
+[Illustration: 335.--Looped Knitting.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+335.--_Looped Knitting._
+
+Materials: 4-thread fleecy wool; 2 wooden knitting-needles; 1 flat
+wooden mesh.
+
+Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, and knit the 1st row plain.
+
+2_nd Row_.--Slip the 1st stitch; insert the needle into the next stitch,
+and throw the cotton forward as if you were going to knit the stitch;
+place the mesh behind the needle in the right hand, and turn the wool
+which is on this needle upwards, bring it back again on the needle so
+that it is wound once round the mesh, and twice round the needle. Then
+only the double stitch through the second stitch, knit it, and insert
+the needle into the next stitch, and repeat what has been explained.
+Knit the last stitch without a loop.
+
+3_rd Row_.--Before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and knit one
+plain row. Every double stitch is knitted as one stitch, so as to attain
+the same number of stitches as in the 1st row.
+
+4_th Row_.--Like the 2nd row. Repeat these rows as often as required.
+
+This knitting is chiefly used for borders of mats.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 336.--Pattern for Comforters.]
+
+336.--_Knitted Pattern for Comforters._
+
+Materials: 4-thread fleecy; 2 wooden knitting-needles.
+
+Cast on a sufficient number of stitches.
+
+1st row: * 3 stitches in the first stitch, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit
+3 stitches together, repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: Plain knitting.
+
+3rd row: Purled.
+
+4th row: Knitted. Repeat these four rows, only in the next row the 3
+stitches knitted together are worked on the 3 stitches worked in 1
+stitch, and the 3 stitches to be worked in 1 stitch are to be placed on
+the one formed by knitting 3 stitches together.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+337.--_Knitted D'Oyley. (See page 579.)_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 36; glazed
+embroidery cotton No. 10; steel knitting-needles.
+
+This pattern is knitted with very fine crochet cotton. The middle part
+as well as the lace border are worked separately; the latter is sewn on
+to the middle part. The spots in the thick parts are worked in
+afterwards with coarser cotton. Commence the pattern in the centre, cast
+on 6 stitches, join them into a circle, and knit 2 plain rounds.
+
+3rd round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward.
+
+4th and 5th rounds: Plain.
+
+6th round: Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward.
+
+7th round: Plain. Every other round is plain. We shall not mention these
+plain rounds any more.
+
+8th round: Knit 2, * throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the round; lastly, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.
+
+10th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together.
+
+12th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together.
+
+14th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together.
+
+16th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together. The
+
+18th, 20th, 22nd, and 24th rounds are worked like the 16th round; only
+the middle plain part of the pattern figures increases by 2 stitches in
+every pattern round, so that there are 15 plain stitches in the 24th
+round between the 2 stitches formed on either side of the same by
+throwing the cotton forward.
+
+26th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2
+together.
+
+28th round: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1.
+
+30th round: * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6,
+throw the cotton forward knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward.
+
+32nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 13, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward.
+
+34th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward.
+
+36th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward.
+
+38th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 7, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward.
+
+40th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward.
+
+42nd round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the
+cotton forward.
+
+44th round: * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit
+3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5,
+throw the cotton forward.
+
+45th and 46th rounds: Plain, then cast off loosely.
+
+For the lace border, which is worked in the short way backwards and
+forwards, cast on 22 stitches and knit as follows:--1st row: Slip 1,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together.
+
+2nd row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 11.
+
+3rd row: Slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.
+
+4th row: Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 9.
+
+5th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1.
+
+6th row: Knit 2 together (knit together the stitch and the next stitch
+formed by throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2,
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 10.
+
+7th row: Slip 1, knit 10, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together (stitch formed by
+throwing the cotton forward and the next stitch).
+
+8th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 12.
+
+9th row: Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit
+2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together.
+
+10th row: Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+14.
+
+11th row: Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 3 together. Then begin again on the 2nd row, and
+work on till the border is long enough; sew the lace on to the centre,
+slightly gathering the former. Lastly, work in the spots with glazed or
+coarse embroidery cotton.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_338.--Knitted Braces_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8 or 12.
+
+These braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double; the
+braces themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are knitted
+plain. Begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a foundation chain
+of 14 stitches, knit 5 rows plain backwards and forwards, then divide
+the stitches into two halves to form the button-hole; knit 15 rows on
+each of the halves consisting of 7 stitches; then take the 14 stitches
+again on one needle and work 17 rows on them. Then work a second
+button-hole like the first one; knit 6 more rows plain, increasing 1 at
+the end of every row, so that the number of stitches at the end of the
+lappet is 20.
+
+Then begin the pattern in brioche stitch; it is worked as follows:--Knit
+first 1 row, then slip the first stitch of the first following pattern
+row, * throw the cotton forward, slip the next stitch (slip the stitches
+always as if you were going to purl them), knit 2 together; repeat 5
+times more from *; the last stitch is knitted.
+
+2nd row of the pattern: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 2; the stitch which
+has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward is
+slipped after the 2nd knitted stitch; repeat 5 times more from *; knit
+the last stitch.
+
+3rd row: Slip the 1st stitch, * decrease 1 (here, and in all the
+following rows, knit the next stitch together with the stitch before it,
+which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton
+forward), throw the cotton forward, slip 1; repeat from *; knit the last
+stitch.
+
+4th row: Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 1, slip the stitch which has been
+formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward, knit 1, knit
+the last stitch. Repeat these 4 rows till the braces are long enough.
+The pattern is 19 inches long. Then knit 6 rows plain, decreasing 1 at
+the end of every row, then work each lappet separately, dividing the
+stitches so that each lappet is 7 stitches wide. Each lappet has 72
+rows; after the first 18 rows make a button-hole as described for the
+preceding one. Work 18 rows between the 1st and 2nd button-hole. The
+lappets are rounded off by decreasing after the 2nd button-hole.
+
+[Illustration: 338.--Knitted Braces.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+339.--_Pattern for Knitted Curtains, &c._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8.
+
+This pattern is suitable for knitting different articles, according to
+the thickness of the cotton used. The number of stitches must be
+divided by ten. The pattern is knitted backwards and forwards.
+
+[Illustration: 339.--Pattern for Knitted Curtains.]
+
+1st row: All plain.
+
+2nd row: * Knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
+the knitted one, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2. Repeat from *.
+
+3rd row: Purl the long stitch formed by making 2 in preceding row, *
+make 2, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make 2, purl 3. Repeat
+from *. (By _make_ 2 is meant twist the cotton twice round the needle,
+which forms one long stitch, and is knitted or purled as such in next
+row.)
+
+4th row: Knit 3, * make 2, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitch
+over, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 5. Repeat from *.
+
+5th row: Purl 3, * make 2, purl 3 together, make 2, purl 7. Repeat
+from*.
+
+6th row: Knit 3, * knit 2 together (1 stitch and 1 long stitch), make 2,
+knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (the
+knitted stitch is a _long stitch_), knit 5. Repeat from *.
+
+Continue the pattern by repeating always from the 2nd to the 5th row;
+the 6th row is the repetition of the 2nd row, but it is begun (compare
+the two rows) about the middle of the 2nd row, so as to change the
+places of the thick diamonds in the following pattern. This will be
+easily understood in the course of the work.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_340.--Knitted Insertion._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20 or 30.
+
+Cast on 14 stitches, and knit in rows, backwards and forwards, as
+follows:--1st row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit
+2, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw
+cotton forward, knit 3. This row is repeated 18 times more; the stitch
+formed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch.
+
+20th row: Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; place next 3 stitches
+upon another needle behind the cotton, and leave them alone; knit 1,
+knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, now knit the first 2 of the 3
+stitches which have been left; knit the last of the 3 together with the
+next stitch on the needle, throw cotton forward, knit 3. Repeat these 20
+rows till strip is long enough.
+
+[Illustration: 340.--Knitted Insertion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+341 _and_ 342.--_Knitted Cover for Sofa Cushion._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 12; eight
+ply fleecy wool.
+
+[Illustration: 341.--Stitch for Sofa Cover.]
+
+This cushion (15 inches wide, 12 inches high) is made of grey calico; it
+is covered on one side with knitting, worked with grey crochet cotton.
+The knitted cover has an open-work pattern, worked backwards and
+forwards on a number of stitches which can be divided by 2, and which
+must suit the width of the cushion, in the following manner:--1st row:
+Alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.
+
+2nd row: Slip 1, knit the other stitches. The stitch formed by throwing
+the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch.
+
+3rd row: Knit 1, * throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. Repeat
+from *; after the last decreasing knit 1.
+
+4th row: Like the 2nd row.
+
+These four rows are repeated till the cover is sufficiently large. Draw
+a narrow piece of red worsted braid through every other open-work row of
+the pattern, as can be seen in illustration 341. When the cushion has
+been covered with the knitting, it is edged all round with a border
+knitted the long way, in the above-mentioned open-work pattern; it is 14
+rows wide, and also trimmed with worsted braid: a fringe of grey cotton
+and red wool, 3 1/4 inches wide, is sewn on underneath the border at the
+bottom of the cushion; to this is added a thick red worsted cord, by
+which the cushion is hung on over the back of an arm-chair. The
+cushion, on account of its simplicity, is especially suitable for garden
+chairs.
+
+[Illustration: 342.--Sofa Cushion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+343.--Netted Nightcap.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12.
+
+This cap is netted with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring
+three-quarters of an inch round; work first a long square for the centre
+of the crown, cast on 28 stitches, and work backwards and forwards 27
+rows with the same number of stitches. Then work 34 rounds round this
+square, and fasten the cotton. Then count 43 stitches for the front
+border, and 24 stitches for the back border, and leave them for the edge
+of the cap. On the remaining stitches on each side work the strings in
+95 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches; each
+string is pointed off at the lower end by decreasing 1 stitch in every
+row. Sew in a narrow piece of tape in the back border of the cap; the
+remaining part of the border, as well as the strings, are trimmed with
+crochet lace or with netted edging, No. 311.
+
+[Illustration: 343.--Netted Nightcap.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+344.--_Netted Nightcap_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton, 3-thread, No.
+30.
+
+[Illustration: 344.--Netted Nightcap.]
+
+This nightcap is very simple and practical. It consists of two similar
+three-cornered pieces, sewn together so as to form a double triangle;
+the point of the triangle is turned back, as seen in illustration, and
+fastened on the lower half of the same. The cap is edged with a lace; a
+similar lace covers the seam between both parts of the cap. The pattern
+is worked with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an
+inch round. Begin each half in the corner; cast on 2 stitches, and work
+backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row,
+till the number of stitches is 60. Then sew both halves together, and
+trim the cap and strings (the latter are worked as on the cap No. 343)
+with the following lace: work 2 rows of open-work treble stitches--the
+treble stitches are divided by 1 chain--then work 1 row of double,
+always working 4 double round the chain stitches which divide 2 treble
+in the preceding row, or with netted edging No. 311.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+345.--_Knitted Pattern_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20 for
+couvrettes, or Berlin wool for sofa quilts.
+
+This pattern can be worked either in wool or cotton, and is suitable for
+many purposes. Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, divided by 18,
+for the 1st row: Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6, repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: The stitches knitted in the 1st row are purled as well as the
+stitches formed by throwing the cotton forward; the purled stitches are
+knitted. This row is repeated alternately, therefore we shall not
+mention it again.
+
+3rd row: * Knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2.
+
+5th row: Purl 4, * knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6.
+
+7th row: Knit 2, * purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.
+
+9th row: Knit 2, * purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4.
+
+11th row: * Knit 6, purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.
+
+13th row: Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, * knit 4, purl 6,
+knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together.
+
+15th row: * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2, knit 6. The knitting can now
+be easily continued from illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 345.--Knitted Pattern.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+346 _to_ 348.--Knitted Shawl.
+
+Materials: Shetland wool, white and scarlet; steel needles.
+
+[Illustration: 346.--Pattern for Shawl (348).]
+
+[Illustration: 347.--Pattern for Shawl (348).]
+
+This shawl is knitted in the patterns given on Nos. 346 and 347. Both
+illustrations show the patterns worked in coarse wool, so as to be
+clearer. Begin the shawl, which is square, on one side, cast on a
+sufficient number of stitches (on our pattern 290); the needles must not
+be too fine, as the work should be loose and elastic.
+
+Knit first 2 rows plain, then 3 of the open-work row of pattern No. 346,
+which is worked in the following manner:--1st row: Slip the first
+stitch, * knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of
+the stitch, slip 1, knit 2 together, throw the wool twice forward;
+repeat from *.
+
+2nd row: Knit 1 and purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool
+forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. In the next
+row the holes are alternated--that is, after the 1st slipped stitch knit
+1, throw the wool forward, and then knit twice 2 together.
+
+When 3 such open-work rows are completed, knit 1 row plain, and then
+work the pattern seen on No. 347, which forms the ground, and is worked
+in the following way:--1st row: Slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw
+the wool forward, and decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next,
+and drawing the slip stitch over the knitted one.
+
+2nd row, entirely purled.
+
+When 6 such rows have been worked in this pattern, work again 9 rows of
+the open-work pattern, but work on each side of the 2 stripes, each 6
+stitches wide, in the pattern of the ground (No. 347); each first stripe
+is at a distance of 4 stitches from the edge, and each second stripe at
+a distance of 20 stitches. After the 9th open-work row, work again 6
+rows in the pattern of the ground, then again 8 open-work rows, and then
+begin the ground, only continue to work on both sides of the shawl the
+narrow stripes of the ground pattern, the narrow outer and the two wide
+inner stripes of the border in the open-work pattern. When the ground
+(pattern No. 347) is square, finish the shawl at the top with two wide
+and one narrow open-work row, as at the bottom, divided by stripes in
+the ground pattern. Knot in, all round the shawl, a fringe of scarlet
+wool; the fringe must be 3-1/2 inches deep.
+
+[Illustration: 348.--Knitted Shawl.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TABLE OF SIZES OF MESSRS. WALTER EVANS & Co.'s
+KNITTING COTTON, 3 THREADS.
+
+|------------------|-----------------------------|
+|                  |                No.          |
+|------------------|-----------------------------|
+|Borders           |                20, 80       |
+|Couvrettes        |                8            |
+|D'Oyleys          |                80, 100      |
+|Edgings           |                16, 30       |
+|Insertions        |                30, 50       |
+|Nightcaps         |                20           |
+|Quilts            |                4, 8, 12     |
+|Socks             |                20           |
+|Table Covers      |                16           |
+|------------------------------------------------|
+
+
+
+MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS.
+
+
+
+ALPHABETS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+349.--_Alphabet_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+These letters are embroidered in overcast stitch and in satin stitch,
+and are the capitals for the alphabet No. 350. Stars ornament this very
+effective alphabet.
+
+[Illustration: 349.--Alphabet (Capitals).]
+
+
+350.--_Alphabet (Small Letters)_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+This alphabet will be found useful for marking linen as well as
+pocket-handkerchiefs. It is worked in satin stitch, the stars in fine
+overcast; an eyelet-hole occupies the centre of each star.
+
+[Illustration: 350.--Alphabets (Small Letters)]
+
+
+
+351.--_Alphabet of Small Capitals_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 12 for
+linen. No. 18 for handkerchiefs.
+
+These letters will be found useful for marking table-linen; they may be
+worked either in green, red, or white cotton. The letters are worked in
+raised satin stitch with raised dots and open eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 351.--Alphabet of Small Capitals.]
+
+
+352.--_Alphabet_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 12.
+
+This pretty alphabet is worked in satin stitch, both raised and veined;
+the design is composed of forget-me-not blossoms and leaves. Raised dots
+worked in satin stitch form all the fine lines.
+
+[Illustration: 352.--Alphabet in Satin Stitch.]
+
+353.--Alphabet in Coral Stitch.
+
+Material: Coloured ingrain marking cotton, or black sewing silk, or
+filoselle.
+
+The letters of this alphabet are particularly suitable for
+pocket-handkerchiefs. The embroidery is worked either with marking
+cotton, or coloured or black sewing silk; the long white lines are
+worked in overcast stitch, the small white spots in satin stitch, the
+remaining parts of the letters in coral stitch, as can be distinctly
+seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 353.--Alphabet in Coral Stitch.]
+
+
+354--- Small Alphabet.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This useful alphabet is worked in satin stitch, veined in parts and
+ornamented with tendrils. As the alphabet of capitals (page 377, No.
+351) and that of these small letters correspond, any name may be worked
+from them.
+
+[Illustration: 354.--- Alphabet of Small Letters.]
+
+
+355.--Alphabet (Capitals).
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and
+20.
+
+This alphabet is worked in raised satin stitch, the outlines being
+partly scalloped; for the fine lines, which should be worked in
+overcast, embroidery cotton No. 20 should be employed.
+
+[Illustration: 355.--Alphabet in Satin Stitch.]
+
+
+356. Alphabet (Capitals).
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+The alphabet here illustrated is in the florid style; the graceful
+flowing lines are worked in raised satin stitch, as well as the
+variously-sized dots which ornament the letters.
+
+[Illustration: 356.--Alphabet (Florid Capitals).]
+
+
+357--Alphabet.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and
+16.
+
+The letters are worked in point d'or, or dotted stitch, with an outline
+in fine overcast, and large raised spots in satin stitch. The ornamental
+wreaths round the first five letters can of course be worked round any
+of the others. It is very fashionable to work one letter only upon
+handkerchief corners.
+
+[Illustration: 357.--Alphabet in paint d'or.]
+
+358.--_Alphabet in White Embroidery_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16
+
+This alphabet is worked in applique; the ears of corn only are worked in
+overcast, satin, and knotted stitch. These letters look particularly
+well on transparent materials. The ears may be omitted by beginners,
+though they add much to the beauty of the alphabet. To this alphabet are
+added the ten numerals, which will be found exceedingly useful. By means
+of the whole alphabet and all these figures, any combination of initials
+and numbers can be made.
+
+[Illustration: 358.--Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery.]
+
+
+359.--_Alphabet (see page_ 402).
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20; very
+fine black silk.
+
+The vine-leaves and grapes of this graceful and fanciful alphabet are
+worked in veined and slightly raised satin stitch, the tendrils in point
+russe; for these the fine black silk is employed.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+360.--_Sampler (Frontispiece_).
+
+Materials: cambric muslin or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16, 18, and 20; red cotton and black silk.
+
+This illustration shows a sampler which will be found useful for
+learning to embroider letters for marking linen. The material used is
+cambric muslin or fine linen. Work the embroidery with white embroidery
+cotton, red cotton, or black silk. The thick parts of the letters are
+worked in slanting satin stitch and back stitch; the outlines of the
+stitched parts are worked in overcast, as well as the fine outlines of
+the letters and all the fine outlines of the patterns. The monograms and
+crowns are worked in a similar manner. Work button-hole stitch round the
+outside of the sampler. The letters and crowns may, of course, be
+employed for other purposes.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+361.--_Alphabet (Capitals)_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20
+
+This effective alphabet is very easily worked, the stitches employed
+being raised and veined satin stitch, and overcast. The raised dots are
+worked in satin stitch, care being taken to preserve their position in
+the _centre_ of each open space.
+
+[Illustration: 361.--Alphabet (Capitals).]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 362.--Alice.]
+
+362.--_Alice_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+The letters of this name, except the initial letter, are very simple,
+being worked in plain satin stitch, while the initial letter is worked
+in raised satin stitch, point de poste, and overcast.
+
+
+363.--_Amalie_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and
+20.
+
+[Illustration: 363.--Amalie.]
+
+The highly-ornate initial of this name is not difficult to work,
+requiring only great regularity and evenness in embroidering the
+tendrils and eyelet-holes. The veinings of the letter must be carefully
+defined. The remainder of the name is executed in plain satin stitch, a
+few eyelet-holes being introduced.
+
+"Amalie" can easily be altered into "Amelia" by changing the place of
+the _a_ and _e_. In the centre of each letter a large eyelet-hole is
+placed; smaller eyelet-holes of graduated sizes occupy parts of the
+overcast scrolls, which should be worked with No. 20 cotton. The initial
+letter is worked in raised satin stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration: 364.--Amy.]
+
+364.--_Amy_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This pretty name is worked in delicately raised satin stitch and point
+de pois; the dots in dotted satin stitch, and the elegant little design
+beneath is worked in point russe.
+
+
+365.--_Annie_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+[Illustration: 365.--Annie.]
+
+The letter _A_ of this name is rather elaborate, and is worked in point
+de pois or back stitching, the outlines in fine overcast, the letters in
+satin stitch. The ornaments surrounding the word "Annie" are worked in
+overcast.
+
+
+366.--_A.M.K._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This name is worked in satin stitch, with small dots of raised satin
+stitch. The eyelet-holes in the middle letter to be worked in overcast.
+
+[Illustration: 366.--A.M.K.]
+
+
+367.--_B.R._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+[Illustration: 367.--B.R.]
+
+These initials are worked in applique in the centre of a medallion in
+satin stitch, overcast, and lace stitches.
+
+
+368.--_Carrie_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+[Illustration: 368.--Carrie.]
+
+This name is very easy to work, being very clearly and simply
+embroidered in overcast and satin stitch. The thick dots may be worked
+without the eyelet-holes if preferred.
+
+[Illustration: 359.--Caroline.]
+
+
+369.--_Caroline_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This pretty name requires care in working; the leaves which adorn the
+letters must be very well defined; they, as well as the letters, are
+embroidered in satin stitch, the initial letter being veined, and the
+ornaments worked in overcast and eyelet-holes.
+
+
+370.--_Charlotte_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+[Illustration: 370.--Charlotte.]
+
+This name is worked in satin stitch and overcast, the small and elegant
+dots in point de russe and graduated satin stitch; the large ones are
+worked in raised satin stitch.
+
+
+371.--_Cornelie_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This word is worked in plain satin stitch, the ornamentation in overcast
+stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 371.--Cornelie.]
+
+
+372.--_C.M._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This design is simple, is worked in graduated satin stitch, and is most
+elegant.
+
+[Illustration: 372--C.M.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 373.--Dora.]
+
+373.--_Dora_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30.
+
+This elaborate design should not be attempted by beginners in the art of
+embroidery; it is worked in overcast stitch, raised and veined satin
+stitch; the tendrils are entirely worked in graduated overcast; the name
+is placed over a graceful spray of wild flowers worked in the
+above-named stitches. This pattern, although originally designed to be
+worked on net or fine muslin, is far more effective when worked on
+cambric or fine lawn.
+
+
+374.--_D.C._
+
+[Illustration: 374.--D.C.]
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These letters are worked in satin stitch and veined satin stitch; the
+forget-me-nots are worked in raised satin stitch with a small
+eyelet-hole in the middle worked in overcast stitch.
+
+
+375.--_Emily_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16. This
+name is worked in satin stitch, the dots in the middle in point de
+poste, the rest of the letters in satin stitch and in dotted satin
+stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 375.--Emily.]
+
+
+376.--_Ernestine_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This elegant design is most effective; the first letter very elaborate;
+the rest of the letters simply worked in satin stitch. The small stars
+are worked in overcast stitch, and the initial letter itself in veined
+satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 376.--Ernestine.]
+
+
+377.--_Etta_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 10.
+
+The letters which compose this name are formed entirely of leaves,
+flowers, and tendrils, worked entirely in satin stitch and overcast; the
+tendrils which surround the name are worked in overcast, and have a few
+eyelet-holes placed among them.
+
+[Illustration: 377.--Etta.]
+
+
+378.--_Eva_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and
+20.
+
+This name is worked in satin stitch, the leaf in point de sable; the
+veinings are worked in raised satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 378.--Eva.]
+
+
+379.--_E.A._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s White and Red Embroidery Cotton
+No. 30.
+
+This very pretty monogram is worked quite in a new style of embroidery.
+The design represents the emblems of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The
+outlines of the shield and cross are worked in overcast, the initials
+"E.A.," the torch, and the anchor in satin stitch with white cotton, the
+leaves partly in satin stitch with white and partly in point d'or with
+red cotton, with only a fine outline in overcast. The cross and the
+flames of the torch are embroidered in the same manner.
+
+[Illustration: 379--E.A.]
+
+
+380.--_E.A.P._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+These pretty initials are worked in satin stitch, the middle
+letter in point russe and point de poste.
+
+[Illustration: 380.--E.A.P.]
+
+
+381.--_E.P._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These elegant letters are worked in veined and raised satin
+stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 381.--E.P.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 382.--E.R.]
+
+382.--_E.R._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30.
+
+The ovals are worked in overcast and point de pois, the
+letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch and
+overcast.
+
+
+[Illustration: 383.--E.A.]
+
+383.--_E.A._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These initials are placed in a medallion; they are worked in
+satin stitch and overcast, and in applique on muslin. For that
+part of the pattern in which the name is to be embroidered the
+material is taken double.
+
+
+384.--_Elisabeth_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+This word is embroidered in satin stitch and overcast. A
+few small eyelet-holes break the monotony of the outlines, and
+give lightness to this name.
+
+[Illustration: 384.--Elisabeth.]
+
+
+385.--_Elise_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 12 and 16.
+
+The open part of these letters is ornamented by one or more
+dots; the thick work is raised over chain stitches worked in
+No. 12, a rather coarser cotton.
+
+[Illustration: 385.--Elise.]
+
+
+386.--_Emma_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+
+This name is worked in satin stitch; the large dots may be worked with
+the eyelet-holes in fine overcast, the smaller dots in satin stitch. The
+remaining letters in raised satin stitch and point de sable.
+
+[Illustration: 386.--Emma.]
+
+
+387.--_F.B._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This elegant monogram is worked in raised satin stitch, the inside
+embroidered with lace. The leaves and tendrils are worked in satin
+stitch and point de sable.
+
+[Illustration: 387.--F.B.]
+
+388.--_F.S._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16 and
+20.
+
+The initials "F.S." are placed in the pages of an open book, the
+outlines of which are worked in overcast, the sides in point de pois.
+The wreath of flowers which surrounds the book is embroidered in satin
+stitch, the tendrils and veinings are in overcast. The initials are
+worked in fine satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 388.--F.S.]
+
+
+389.--_Fanny._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This name is simply worked in satin stitch and overcast.
+
+[Illustration: 389.--Fanny.]
+
+
+390.--_Francis._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+The initial letter of this elegant design is worked in fine
+over-casting; the centre star in raised satin stitch with lace in the
+middle; the leaves surrounding it in veined satin stitch; the other
+letters are worked in plain satin stitch; and the dots of the line in
+point de poste.
+
+[Illustration: 390.--Francis.]
+
+
+391.--_E.C._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+The initials "E.C." are worked within a frame of overcast outlines and
+satin stitch dots. Vine-leaves and grapes worked in point de pois and
+eyelet-holes are placed as ornaments around the frame.
+
+[Illustration: 391.--E.C.]
+
+
+392.--_Gordon_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This pretty name being worked in raised satin stitch, is very suitable
+for gentlemen's handkerchiefs.
+
+[Illustration: 391.--Gordon.]
+
+
+393.--_Helene_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+We give the French version of this pretty name, it being easily changed
+to English "Helen" by omitting the final _e_ in working. The name is
+worked in plain satin stitch, slightly raised at the thickest parts of
+the letters.
+
+[Illustration: 393.--Helene.]
+
+
+394.--_H.D.G._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This elegant design is worked in fine overcast and satin stitch, and
+point de russe.
+
+[Illustration: 394--H.D.G.]
+
+
+395--_Jessie._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This design is very simple to work, the letters being so clear and well
+defined. The thick satin stitch is scalloped in parts.
+
+[Illustration: 395.--Jessie.]
+
+
+396.--_J.C._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 12.
+
+The letters "J.C." are worked in raised satin and overcast stitch, the
+thickest part of each letter being worked in scallops.
+
+[Illustration: 396.--J.C.]
+
+
+397.--_Lina_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This name is worked in raised veined satin stitch; the small stars are
+worked in point russe round eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 397. Lina.]
+
+
+398.--_Lizzie_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This name is worked partly in satin stitch, partly in raised dots and
+fine overcast; the letters are in the Greek style, and have an excellent
+effect if well worked.
+
+[Illustration: 398.--Lizzie.]
+
+
+399.--_L.G.A._
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20, and
+Linen Thread No. 16.
+
+Lace stitches are introduced in the medallion which incloses these
+letters, the outlines being worked in overcast and point de pois, the
+pens and initials in raised satin stitch, as also the flowers. The open
+portion is filled in with Mechlin wheels, which are thus worked: A
+number of single threads cross each other in the space to be filled up;
+these are placed about a quarter of an inch from each other. All the
+bars in one direction must now be worked in fine button-hole stitch,
+then the opposite bars must be worked, and the button-hole stitch must
+be continued about six inches past the point where the two lines cross.
+The thread must be slipped loosely round the cross twice, running over
+and under alternately, so as to form a circle; then work in button-hole
+to the centre of a quarter of the circle; make a dot by inserting a pin
+in the next button-hole and working three stitches in the loop thus
+formed by the pin. These dots may be omitted from these wheels.
+
+[Illustration: 399.--L.G.A.]
+
+
+400.--_L.C._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+The effect of this design when well worked is excellent, for, although
+simple, the contrast between the letters and stars throws each into
+relief. Veined and raised satin stitch, with very small eyelet-holes,
+are the stitches used here.
+
+[Illustration: 400.--L.C.]
+
+
+401.--_Marie_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 20 and
+36.
+
+This name is embroidered in satin stitch; the veinings are well defined,
+and the tendrils should be worked with No. 30 cotton, as they require
+very fine work. Stars of overcast and eyelet-holes are the only
+ornaments. [Illustration: 401--Marie.]
+
+
+402.--_Maria_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30.
+
+The initial letter of this name is worked in overcast and point de pois,
+the remaining letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch
+and overcast.
+
+[Illustration: 402.--Maria.]
+
+
+403.--_Maude_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This name is worked in veined satin stitch; the small stars in raised
+satin stitch, and the elegant tendrils are worked in overcast. This work
+is peculiarly adapted for the marking of a trousseau.
+
+[Illustration: 403.--Maude.]
+
+
+404.--_M._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+This elegant design can be worked in coloured silk if preferred, or the
+coronet omitted at will. The letter "M" is worked in raised and veined
+satin stitch; the centre stars are worked in fine overcast round an
+eyelet-hole; the coronet is worked in very fine satin stitch and point
+de pois, and stars to correspond with those worked in the letter and in
+the wreath below, the leaves of which are worked in satin stitch and
+overcast stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 404.--M.--Handkerchief Corner.]
+
+
+405.--_M.B.D._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+These initials are worked in satin stitch and overcast, the open work in
+fine overcast round eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 405.--M.B.D.]
+
+[Illustration: 406.--M.B.G.]
+
+406.--_M.B.G._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These elegant letters are simply worked in graduated satin stitch and
+fine overcast with eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 407.--M.H.E.]
+
+
+407.--_M.H.E._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This elegant design is worked in graduated satin stitch, the middle
+letter is done in point croise. This stitch is only worked on very thin
+and transparent materials. Insert the needle into the material as for
+the common back stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on the
+opposite outline of the pattern so as to form on the wrong side a
+slanting line. Insert the needle again as for common back stitch.
+
+
+408.--_Natalie._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 30.
+
+The initial letter of this word contains all those following, and is
+surrounded by a wreath of roses and other flowers; these are worked in
+satin stitch, the leaves in point de pois, the letters in raised satin
+stitch. The dots which are represented on the groundwork of the initial
+are worked in back stitching; these may be worked in scarlet ingrain
+cotton if desired for morning handkerchiefs.
+
+[Illustration: 408.--Natalie.]
+
+
+409.--_O.R._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+This monogram is worked in satin stitch, and the oval is worked in
+eyelet-holes of graduated sizes.
+
+[Illustration: 409.--O.R.]
+
+
+410.--_Phoebe_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+The first letter of this word is very elaborate; it is worked in satin
+stitch, point de sable, and point de pois, the rest of the letters in
+satin stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 410.--Phoebe.]
+
+
+411.--_Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Perfectionne
+No. 20.
+
+[Illustration: 411.--Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs]
+
+This monogram is worked partly in applique, partly in satin stitch. For
+the middle part of the medallion sew on the pattern in applique of
+cambric with button-hole stitch; the remaining part of the embroidery is
+worked in satin stitch and point russe.
+
+
+412.--_Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20, and
+Linen Thread No. 20.
+
+This monogram is also worked in applique and satin stitch. The circle
+all round the medallion is worked in applique; in the middle work lace
+stitches from illustration. The edge of the medallion is worked round
+with button-hole stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 412.--Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs.]
+
+
+413.--_Rosa_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+Here the name is inclosed in a medallion of overcast and back stitching,
+the lower part having a graceful wreath of leaves worked in satin
+stitch. The letters which form the name are worked in raised and
+scalloped satin stitch and point de pois.
+
+[Illustration: 413. Rosa.]
+
+
+414.--_Rosina_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+The stars round this graceful initial letter are worked in raised satin
+stitch round an eyelet-hole, the leaves in graduated satin stitch, the
+stems overcast, the wreaths of flowers worked in satin stitch and open
+eyelet-holes, the stems and veinings in overcast, and the stars on the
+stems to correspond with those worked in the letter: the rest of the
+letters in simple satin stitch rather thickly raised.
+
+[Illustration: 414.--Rosina.]
+
+
+415.--_R.S._
+
+Materials: Black china silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery
+Cotton No. 16.
+
+These letters are worked in raised satin stitch with a design of point
+russe worked in black silk.
+
+[Illustration: 415.--R.S.]
+
+
+416.--_S.E.B._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 16.
+
+These letters are worked in graduated satin stitch, the centre star is
+worked in raised satin stitch, and the four surrounding it as
+eyelet-holes.
+
+[Illustration: 416.--S.E.B.]
+
+
+417.--_L.E.P._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 18.
+
+These initials are worked in plain satin stitch, and the elegant stars
+are worked in point russe worked round an eyelet-hole.
+
+[Illustration: 417.--L.E.P.]
+
+
+418.--_Victoria_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No. 20.
+
+This name is most elaborately worked in satin stitch, over-casting and
+eyelet-holes. The initial letter is worked in satin stitch, and the
+stars in fine overcast round an eyelet-hole.
+
+[Illustration: 418.--Victoria.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+POINT LACE WORK.
+
+
+
+Lace is of two kinds--pillow lace, which is made upon a cushion or
+pillow, and point lace, which is made of stitches or _points_ worked in
+patterns by hand, which are joined by various stitches forming a
+groundwork, also the result of the needle above.
+
+Pillow lace is entirely worked on the pillow or cushion, the pattern and
+ground being produced at the same time. Pillow lace is sometimes
+correctly called bone or bobbin lace, but it appears that the
+distinction has never been very nicely observed either by lace-workers
+or lace-traders, many sorts which are really pillow lace being called
+point, on account of some peculiarity in the stitch or pattern.
+
+The requisites for producing lace in perfection are the dexterity and
+taste of the workers, and the goodness of the material. To produce many
+beautiful fabrics a mechanical dexterity alone suffices, but in
+lace-making the worker must have some artistic talent, even when
+supplied with designs, for any one can perceive that deviations from the
+design are easily made, and that the slightest alteration by a worker
+wanting in taste will spoil the whole piece of workmanship.
+
+The following illustrations are specimens of ancient and modern laces
+from Mrs. Bury Palliser's collection:--
+
+[Illustration: 419.--Dalecarlian Lace.]
+
+[Illustration: 420.--Old Mechlin.]
+
+[Illustration: 421.--Mechlin Lace (Queen Charlotte's).]
+
+No. 419 shows Dalecarlian lace, made by the women of Dalecarlia. This is
+a coarse kind of lace, and is sewn on caps, &c., and, although highly
+starched, is never washed, for fear of destroying its coffee-coloured
+tint, which, it appears, is as much prized now by the Swedish rustics as
+it was by English ladies in the last century.
+
+[Illustration: 422.--Buckingham Point Trolly, 1851 (Black Lace).]
+
+Both these specimens of Mechlin belonged to Queen Charlotte, who much
+admired this elegant lace.
+
+No. 423.--The Bedford plaited lace is an improvement on the old Maltese.
+
+Honiton guipure lace is distinguished by the groundwork being of various
+stitches, in place of being sewn upon a net ground. The application of
+Honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late years almost superseded
+by this modern guipure. The sprigs, when made, are sewn upon a piece of
+blue paper and united on the pillow with "cutworks" or "purlings," or
+else joined with the needle by various stitches--lacet, point, reseau,
+cutwork, button-hole, and purling.
+
+[Illustration: 423.--Bedford Plaited Lace (1851).]
+
+Those who wish to study lace and lace-making should read Mrs. Bury
+Palliser's _History of Lace_ (Sampson Low and Marston).
+
+[Illustration: 424.--Honiton Guipure Lace.]
+
+
+
+POINT LACE.
+
+
+The materials required for this elegant branch of needlework are neither
+numerous nor expensive. TRACING CLOTH, LEATHER, or TOILE CIREE, various
+BRAIDS and CORDS, LINEN THREAD and two or three sizes of needles,
+scissors and thimble. TRACING CLOTH is required when ladies copy point
+lace patterns, and is the most convenient mode of taking them, as the
+design can be worked upon the tracing cloth, which, though transparent,
+is very strong; the price is 1s. 6d. per yard. Fine LEATHER is the
+material upon which bought patterns are usually traced, and is decidedly
+more pleasant to work on than is any other material. In selecting
+patterns ladies should choose those traced upon green leather in
+preference to scarlet or buff, as green is better for the eyesight than
+any other colour.
+
+[Illustration: 425.--Point Lace Scissors.]
+
+TOILE CIREE is only a substitute for leather, and is not as pleasant to
+work upon in warm weather.
+
+The needles employed are usually Messrs. Walker's needles, Nos. 9 and
+10. The scissors should be small, sharp, and pointed, as in illustration
+No. 425. An ivory thimble may be safely employed in this light work.
+
+[Illustration: 426.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 427.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 428.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 429.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 430.--Linen Braid.]
+
+[Illustration: 431.--Linen Braid.]
+
+The BRAIDS are of various widths and kinds. None but pure linen braid
+should be employed; those with machine-made edgings are eschewed by many
+lace-workers, the plain, loose-woven linen braid of various widths and
+qualities being alone acceptable to experienced hands.
+
+But all ladies do not care to be at the trouble of edging the braid, and
+will find Nos. 426, 428, 430, and 431 very useful. No. 429 is a plain
+linen braid with a vandyked edge, which works out very prettily. No. 431
+is an edged braid with open holes, in imitation of the point lace work
+of the fifteenth century.
+
+Point lace cords resemble the satin stitch embroidery in their close,
+regular smoothness; the price is 1s. per hank, and they are of various
+thicknesses, from the size of a coarse crochet thread up to that of a
+thick piping cord. These cords are used to ornament the braid, and are
+closely sewn on the braid, following its every outline, and serve as
+_beading_ to the edging, being always sewn on the outer edge alone. The
+finer kinds of this cord are used in place of braid where very light
+work is needed, as in the point lace alphabet which forms the
+frontispiece of this work. Directions for laying on the cord when
+employed as braid are given on page 500. When used as a finish only, and
+to impart the raised appearance of Venice and Spanish lace, it is fixed
+on the braid by plain, close sewing. The thread used should be
+Mecklenburg linen thread; that of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. we
+strongly recommend as being of pure linen, washing and wearing well; it
+is pleasant to work with, from the regularity and evenness of the make.
+The numbers run thus:--2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 30, 36,
+and 40--and will be found adapted for every kind of lace stitch. No. 2
+is the coarsest, No. 40 the finest, size.
+
+In working point lace the following directions must be attended to:
+Begin at the left hand, and work from left to right, when not otherwise
+directed, as in reverse rows. Before cutting off the braid run a few
+stitches across it to prevent it widening. Joins should be avoided, but
+when a join is indispensable, stitch the braid together, open and turn
+back the ends, and stitch each portion down separately. When passing the
+thread from one part to another, run along the centre of the braid,
+allowing the stitches to show as little as possible. In commencing, make
+a few stitches, leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and
+cutting it off afterwards. In fastening off, make a tight button-hole
+stitch, run on three stitches, bring the needle out at the back, and cut
+off.
+
+Having now completed our list of materials, we can proceed to lay on the
+braid.
+
+[Illustration: 442.--Mode of Placing the Braid.]
+
+TO PLACE THE BRAID.--No. 442 shows the design traced upon paper or
+tracing cloth, and lightly tacked to a foundation of leather or toile
+ciree. Run on a straight line of braid for the lower edge, with fine
+stitches, working as shown from left to right. Take another piece of
+braid, or the other end of the same piece, and begin to lay the braid by
+"running" stitches in its centre, keeping it as smooth and even as
+possible. The outer edge presents no difficulty, but the inner edge will
+not lie evenly without being drawn in by a needle and thread, as
+follows:--Thread a No. 9 needle with No. 12 Mecklenburg thread about 20
+inches long, fasten the thread to one point, and insert the needle in
+and out of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this thread
+when drawn up will keep the braid in its place. Two or three fastening
+off stitches should be worked when each circle, half circle, or rounded
+curve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing or gathering thread
+remains in the work, and forms an important, though unseen, part of its
+structure.
+
+As much of the beauty of point lace depends upon the manner of placing
+the braid, ladies cannot bestow too much pains upon this part of the
+work, which is a little troublesome to beginners. Many fancy shops now
+undertake this braid-placing for ladies, who can have their own pattern
+braided and commenced or braided alone at trifling expense. Among these
+may be mentioned the following houses:--Goubaud, 30, Henrietta-street,
+Covent-garden. Boutillier, Oxford-street, W.
+
+The stitches used in point lace may be divided into--
+
+STITCHES PROPER, or _points_.
+
+CONNECTING BARS.
+
+FINISHING EDGINGS.
+
+WHEELS, ROSETTES.
+
+The term point lace, or lace stitches (_points_), has of late been
+applied to every stitch executed with Mecklenburg thread, and many
+stitches are erroneously named by modern writers. As there are more than
+one hundred stitches employed in this beautiful art, much study and
+opportunity of seeing specimens of old point lace is required to give a
+novice any idea of the various kinds of point lace; but by attention to
+the following stitches the rudiments of the art may be easily acquired
+and very beautiful lace produced.
+
+The first stitch is POINT DE BRUXELLES, or Brussels lace stitch. This
+stitch, as may be clearly seen in illustration No. 433, is a simple
+button-hole stitch worked loosely and with great regularity. The whole
+beauty of Brussels lace depends upon the evenness of the stitches. This
+stitch is sometimes employed as an edging, but is more often worked in
+rows backwards and forwards, either as a groundwork or to fill spaces,
+as in the point lace collar, No. 496.
+
+[Illustration: 433. Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace).]
+
+[Illustration: 434.--Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace Worked in Rows).]
+
+Brussels Point is the foundation of nearly all the lace stitches.
+
+
+POINT DE VENISE (Venetian or Venice Point) is worked from left to right,
+like Brussels point. Work one loose button-hole, and in this stitch
+work four button-hole stitches tightly drawn up, then work another loose
+button-hole stitch, then four more tight button-hole stitches in the
+loose one, repeat to the end of the row, and fasten off.
+
+[Illustration: 435.--Point de Venise (Venice Point).]
+
+
+[Illustration: 436.--Petit Point de Venise (Little Venice Point).]
+
+PETIT POINT DE VENISE (Little Venice Point) is worked in the same manner
+as Point de Venise, but one tight stitch only is worked in each loose
+button-hole stitch. This is a most useful stitch for filling small
+spaces.
+
+
+[Illustration: 437.--Point d'Espagne (Spanish Point).]
+
+No. 437.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Spanish Point) is worked from left to right
+as follows:--Insert the needle in the edge of the braid, keeping the
+thread turned to the right, bringing it out inside the loop formed by
+the thread (see illustration No. 437); the needle must pass from the
+back of the loop through it. Pass the needle under the stitch and bring
+it out in front, thus twice twisting the thread, which produces the
+cord-like appearance of this stitch. At the end of each row fasten to
+the braid and return by sewing back, inserting the needle once in every
+open stitch.
+
+
+[Illustration: 438.--Close Point d'Espagne (Close Spanish Point).]
+
+No. 438.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Close) is worked in the same way as open
+point d'Espagne, but so closely as to only allow the needle to pass
+through in the next row. This stitch is also worked from left to right;
+fasten to the braid at the end of each row, and sew back to the left
+again.
+
+
+No. 439.--TREBLE POINT D'ESPAGNE is worked in exactly the same way as
+the open and close point d'Espagne, as may be seen in illustration No.
+439.
+
+Three close stitches, one open, three close to the end of each row. Sew
+back, and in the next row begin one open, three close, one open, then
+close to the end; repeat the rows as far as necessary, taking care that
+the close and open stitches follow in regular order. Diamonds, stars,
+and various patterns may be formed with this stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 439.--Treble Point d'Espagne (Treble Spanish Point).]
+
+
+No. 440.--POINT DE GRECQUE is begun from left to right, is worked
+backwards and forwards, and is begun by one stitch in loose point de
+Bruxelles and three of close point d'Espagne; then one Brussels, three
+point d'Espagne to the end of the row; in returning work back in the
+same manner.
+
+[Illustration: 440.--Point de Grecque (Grecian Point).]
+
+
+No. 441. POINT DE VALENCIENNES (Valenciennes Stitch).--This stitch
+appears complicated, but is really easy to work. Begin at the left hand
+and work six point de Bruxelles stitches at unequal distance, every
+alternate stitch being larger. 2nd row: Upon the first large or long
+stitch work 9 close button-hole stitches, then 1 short point de
+Bruxelles stitch under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so on
+to the end of row (right to left).
+
+[Illustration: 441.--Point de Valenciennes (Valenciennes Stitch).]
+
+3rd row: 5 close button-hole in the 9 of previous row, 1 short point de
+Bruxelles, 2 close in the Bruxelles stitch, 1 short point de Bruxelles,
+5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, l short, 5 close, 1 short,
+and repeat. 4th row: 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, 1
+short, 5 close, 1 short, 2 close, l short, and repeat. Continue the rows
+until sufficient of the pattern is worked.
+
+
+[Illustration: 442.--Point d'Alencon, with Twisted Stitch.]
+
+No. 442. POINT D'ALENCON.--This stitch is used to fill up narrow spaces
+where great lightness is required. Point d'Alencon is worked under and
+over in alternate stitches, like hem stitch. Nos. 442 and 443 show point
+d'Alencon. In No. 442 a twisted stitch is worked over the plain point
+d'Alencon, which is clearly shown in No. 443; this twist is made by
+passing the thread three times round each plain bar, and working the
+knot shown in illustration No. 442 over _both_ strands of the bar.
+
+[Illustration: 443.--Point d'Alencon, with Button-hole Stitch.]
+
+The POINT D'ALENCON No. 443 is a festoon of close button-hole stitch
+worked over the plain bars.
+
+
+[Illustration: 444.--Point d'Angleterre (Open English Lace).]
+
+No. 444.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE (Open English Lace).--Open English Lace is
+thus worked:--Cover the space to be filled in with lines of thread about
+one-eighth of an inch apart, then form cross lines, intersecting those
+already made and passing alternately under and over them; work a rosette
+on every spot where two lines cross, by working over and under the two
+lines about 16 times round, then twist the thread twice round the
+groundwork thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossing
+threads. No. 445 shows this stitch much enlarged.
+
+[Illustration: 445.--Point d'Angleterre (Enlarged).]
+
+
+No. 446,--POINT TURQUE (Turkish Stitch).--This easy and effective stitch
+looks well for filling either large or small spaces; the thread employed
+should be varied in thickness according to the size of the space to be
+filled. 1st row: Work a loop, bringing the thread from right to left,
+passing the needle through the twist and through the loop, draw up tight
+and repeat. 2nd row: 1 straight thread from right to left. 3rd row: Work
+the same as first using the straight thread in place of the braid, and
+passing the needle through the loop of previous row, as shown in
+illustration No. 446.
+
+[Illustration: 446.--Point Turque.]
+
+
+No. 447.--CORDOVA STITCH is useful for varying other stitches. It
+resembles the point de reprise of guipure d'art, and is worked in a
+similar manner over and under the side of squares formed by straight and
+parallel lines. (See No. 448.)
+
+[Illustration: 447.--Point de Cordova (Cordova Stitch).]
+
+
+No. 448.--POINT DE REPRISE.--This stitch is worked by darning over and
+under two threads, forming a triangle. The space is filled by parallel
+and cross-way bars, placed at equal distances, and on the triangles thus
+produced point de reprise is worked.
+
+[Illustration: 448.--Point de Reprise.]
+
+
+No. 449.--POINT BRABANCON (Brabancon Lace) is worked as follows:--Left
+to right. 1st row: 1 long loose, 1 short loose, point de Bruxelles
+alternately to end of row. 2nd row: 7 tight point de Bruxelles in the 1
+long loose stitch, 2 short loose point de Bruxelles in the short loose
+stitch of previous row, repeat. 3rd row: Same as first.
+
+[Illustration: 449.--Point Brabancon (Brabancon Lace).]
+
+
+[Illustration: 450.--Point de Fillet (Net Groundwork Stitch).]
+
+[Illustration: 451.--Point de Fillet and Point de Reprise.]
+
+No. 450 is used for groundwork where Brussels net is not imitated, and
+is very effective. It is begun in the corner or crosswise of the space
+to be filled. A loose point de Bruxelles stitch is first taken and
+fastened to the braid, then passed twice through the braid as shown in
+illustration, and worked in rows backwards and forwards as follows:--1
+point de Bruxelles stitch; before proceeding to the next stitch pass the
+needle _under_ the knot, _over_ the thread, and again _under_ it, as
+shown in illustration No. 450. This stitch is very quickly worked. No.
+451 shows point de fillet applied in filling a space, with a few
+stitches of point de reprise worked upon this pretty groundwork.
+
+
+No. 452.--POINT DE TULLE.--This stitch is used as a groundwork for very
+fine work, and is worked in rows backwards and forwards in the same
+stitch as open point d'Espagne, page 457. When this is completed the
+work is gone over a second time, by inserting the needle under one
+twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at +, and bringing it out
+again at the dot. This produces a close double twist which is very
+effective.
+
+[Illustration: 452.--Point de Tulle.]
+
+
+No. 453.--MECHLIN LACE (Mechlin Wheels).--This is one of the prettiest
+stitches in point lace, but also one of the most difficult to work
+correctly. It is thus worked:--Work a number of diagonal bars in
+button-hole stitch on a single thread in one direction, then begin in
+the opposite side the same way, and work 5 or 6 stitches past the spot
+where the two lines cross, pass the thread round the cross twice under
+and over the thread to form a circle. Work in button-hole stitch half
+one quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead of
+drawing the thread tight, and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop
+held open by the pin, then take it out, and continue as before.
+Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on the
+wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal and
+parallel lines of thread.
+
+[Illustration: 453.--Mechlin Lace Wheels.]
+
+
+No. 454.--ESCALIER LACE.--This useful lace may be varied in pattern to
+any extent by placing the open stitches in any desired order; it then
+takes the name of diamond or Antwerp lace, according to the design. True
+escalier lace is made by working nine button-hole stitches close
+together; then miss 3--that is, work none in the space that 3 stitches
+would occupy--work 9, miss 3 as before to the end of row, begin the 2nd
+row 3 stitches from the end, to cause the open spaces to fall in
+diagonal lines--a succession of steps or stairs (_escalier_), which
+gives name to this stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 454.--Escalier Lace Worked in Diamonds.]
+
+
+No. 455.--SPANISH POINT LACE is adorned with highly-raised scrolls,
+flowers, &c. This is effected by working over an underlay of coarse
+white thread or over fine white linen cords. The wheels are worked by
+winding soft coarse linen thread round pencils or smooth knitting-pins
+of various sizes, and working over the circle thus obtained a succession
+of close button-hole stitches. These wheels are sewn on to the lace when
+completed. The groundwork of Spanish lace is usually worked in what are
+called Raleigh Bars (see page 477), but this lace has sometimes for
+groundwork point de Venise. An easy mode of working this handsome lace
+is to trace the design upon very fine good linen; raise the thick parts
+as above directed, and embroider the whole in fine thick scalloped
+button-hole stitch; fill the ground with Raleigh bars, or, as shown in
+illustration No. 455, in treble point de Venise, and cut away the linen
+from beneath the groundwork.
+
+[Illustration: 455.--Spanish Point Lace (Worked a l'Anglaise).]
+
+
+
+WHEELS AND ROSETTES.
+
+
+Wheels or rosettes are used to fill up circles, or in combination to
+form lace. The simplest is--
+
+THE SORRENTO WHEEL.--Nos. 456 and 457.--This is worked by fastening the
+thread in the pattern to be filled up by means of the letters. Fasten it
+first at the place _a_, then at the place _b_, carrying it back to the
+middle of the first formed bar by winding it round, fasten the cotton at
+the place _c_, carrying it back again to the centre by winding it round
+the bar, and so on; then work over and under the bars thus formed as in
+English lace. See page 462, and illustrations Nos. 456 and 457.
+
+[Illustration: 456 and 457.--Sorrento Wheels.]
+
+
+No. 458.--ENGLISH WHEEL.--This is worked in the same manner as the
+Sorrento wheel, but instead of _winding_ the thread over and under the
+bars, the needle is inserted under each bar and brought out again
+between the thread and the last stitch; this gives a kind of button-hole
+stitch, and gives the square, firm appearance possessed by this wheel.
+
+[Illustration: 458.--English Wheel.]
+
+
+No. 459.--ROSETTE IN POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--This rosette is worked in a
+somewhat similar manner to the wheel above described, the difference
+being that after each stitch passed round and under the bars, the thread
+is passed loosely round in the reverse direction, as shown in
+illustration No. 459, before proceeding to make the next stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 459.--Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre.]
+
+
+No. 460 is a rosette or star which is used to fill circles of braid, and
+forms the centre of many modern point lace patterns. It is worked upon
+a pattern traced and pricked in small holes at equal distances. Two
+threads are employed, one coarse tracing thread, the other of finer
+thread. The coarse thread is laid on thus:--Pass the needle containing
+the fine thread, No. 12, through one of the pricked holes, over the
+tracing thread and back through the same hole; repeat, following the
+traced outline until the whole of the coarse thread is laid over the
+outline, then work over in tight button-hole stitch with picots or
+purls, as on the Raleigh bars (see page 477). This mode of laying on
+tracing or outlining thread is also applied to fine braid and to point
+lace cord, as in the alphabet No. 400 (see page 500).
+
+[Illustration: 460.--Rosette for centre of Point Lace Circles.]
+
+
+
+BARS.
+
+
+The word _Bar_ is applied to the various stitches used to connect the
+various parts of point lace work, and the beauty of the work depends
+greatly upon the class of bar and its suitability to the lace stitches
+used. The simplest bar is--
+
+No. 461.--THE SORRENTO BAR.--It is worked from right to left, a straight
+thread being carried across and fastened with a stitch. The return row
+consists of a simple twist under and over the straight thread; three of
+these bars are usually placed close together at equal distances between
+each group. The thread is sewn over the braid in passing from one spot
+to another.
+
+[Illustration: 461.--Sorrento Bars.]
+
+[Illustration: 462.--Sorrento Bars.]
+
+Sorrento bars are also applied as shown in illustration No. 462.
+
+
+No. 463.--D ALENCON BARS are worked upon point de Bruxelles edging, and
+are only applied to the inner part of a pattern, never being used as
+groundwork bars. The thread is merely passed three times over and under
+the point de Bruxelles stitches, the length of these bars being
+regulated by the space to be filled; when the third bar is completed a
+tight point de Bruxelles stitch is used to fasten off the bar, the
+thread is passed through the next point de Bruxelles stitch, and a
+second bar begun.
+
+[Illustration: 463.--D'Alencon Bars.]
+
+
+[Illustration: 464.--Venetian Bar.]
+
+No. 464.--THE VENETIAN BAR is so simple that it hardly needs
+description. It is worked over two straight threads in reverse
+button-hole stitch. No. 465 shows the Venetian bar applied as the
+"veining" of leaf, and worked upon Sorrento bars.
+
+[Illustration: 465.--Venetian Bar.]
+
+
+No. 466.--VENETIAN BARS are worked so as to form squares, triangles,
+&c., in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread. The arrow in the
+illustration points to the direction for working the next.
+
+[Illustration: 466.--- Plain Venetian Bars.]
+
+
+No. 467.--BARS OF POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--These bars may be worked singly
+or to fill up a space, as in illustration. Work rosettes as in point
+d'Angleterre, page 461; when each rosette is finished twist the thread
+up the foundation thread to the top, fasten with one stitch, then pass
+it under the parallel line running through the centre and over into the
+opposite braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting the
+threads as in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 467.--Bars of Point d'Angleterre.]
+
+
+No. 468.--POINT DE VENISE BARS (EDGED).--Begin at the right hand and
+stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid, fastening it
+with one tight stitch of point de Bruxelles. Upon this line work a
+succession of tight point de Bruxelles stitches. In every third stitch
+work one point de Venise stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 468.--Point de Venise Bars (Edged).]
+
+
+No. 469.--We now come to the most important feature of BARS--the _dot,
+picot_, or _purl_, for by all these names it is known. This dot is
+worked in various ways upon different lace bars. Dotted point de Venise
+bars are worked as follow:--
+
+[Illustration: 469.--Dotted Point de Venise Bars.]
+
+Stretch the thread from right to left, on this work five tight stitches
+of point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last stitch to hold it
+open and loose, pass the needle under the loose stitch and over the
+thread, as clearly shown in illustration No. 469, and in this loop work
+three tight point de Bruxelles stitches. Then work five more stitches,
+and repeat to end of row.
+
+
+[Illustration: 470.--Picot or Dot on Sorrento Bar.]
+
+No. 470 shows a dot or picot upon a Sorrento bar worked between rows of
+point de Bruxelles, three twisted stitches being worked into the loop
+left by the twisted thread; this forms a picot resembling satin stitch
+in appearance.
+
+
+Nos. 471 and 472.--RALEIGH BARS are worked over a foundation or network
+of coarse thread, twisted in places so as to more easily fall into the
+desired form.
+
+[Illustration: 471.--Raleigh Bars.]
+
+[Illustration 472.--Network for Working Raleigh Bars.]
+
+
+By following the numbering from No. 1 to 21, in No. 472, a square place
+may be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement applied to form
+groundwork of any shape desired. Upon this groundwork tight point de
+Bruxelles stitches are worked, and the dot worked upon these in one of
+the following ways:--
+
+DOT or PICOT.--1st Mode: Five tight point de Bruxelles stitches, one
+loose point de Bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and over the
+thread, as shown in point de Venise bars No. 469, draw up, leaving a
+small open loop as in tatting. Work five tight point de Bruxelles and
+repeat. 2nd Mode: Proceed as above, but instead of continuing the tight
+stitches work two or three tight stitches in the loop thus formed, and
+repeat. 3rd Mode: Work four tight point de Bruxelles stitches, one
+loose, through which pass the needle point, wind the thread three or
+four times round the point, as shown in illustration No. 473, press the
+thumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and thread through the
+twists. This is a quick mode of making the picot, and imitates most
+closely the real Spanish lace.
+
+
+Illustration No. 473 also shows how this stitch may be applied as a
+_regular_ groundwork, but the beauty of old point groundwork bars is the
+variety of form.
+
+[Illustration: 473.--Third mode of making Picots or Dots.]
+
+
+
+EDGES AND PURL FINISH.
+
+
+The correct edging of lace is a most important part of this art, and
+care should be taken to work a proper edge for each kind of lace.
+Sorrento edging should be worked upon Limoges lace. Spanish lace
+requires a full rich edge, as shown in No. 478, &c. The simplest edge is
+point de Bruxelles, which is worked somewhat like the stitch No. 433,
+and is secured by a knot worked in the braid. Many lace-workers omit
+this knot.
+
+[Illustration: 474.--Point de Bruxelles Edging.]
+
+
+No. 475.--SORRENTO EDGING is worked with one short and one long stitch
+alternately.
+
+[Illustration: 475.--Sorrento Edging.]
+
+
+No. 476.--POINT DE VENISE is worked precisely like that stitch (see page
+456), three and even four stitches being worked in the loop.
+
+[Illustration: 476.--Point de Venise Edging.]
+
+
+No. 477.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE EDGING is worked in point de Bruxelles, the
+thread being again drawn through the braid before proceeding to the next
+stitch. This edging is strong and useful.
+
+[Illustration: 477.--Point d'Angleterre Edging.]
+
+No. 478.--POINT D'ESPAGNE EDGING.--This stitch is easily worked. Insert
+the point of the needle through the braid and wind the thread round it
+20 times, draw the needle through these windings and draw the picot
+tight, sew over the braid the space of 3 stitches, and repeat.
+
+[Illustration: 478.--Point d'Espagne Edging.]
+
+
+No. 479.--ANTWERP EDGE.--This edge is only a variety of point
+d'Angleterre edging, and differs only in the mode of making the knot;
+the thread is passed over, under, and through the loop formed by the
+point de Bruxelles lace.
+
+[Illustration: 479.--Antwerp Edge.]
+
+NOTE.--It will be observed that the stitches here given are much
+enlarged for the sake of clearness in showing details.
+
+
+
+PATTERNS.
+
+
+No. 480.--_Star in Point Lace_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+20.
+
+Trace the outline upon paper or leather, lay the braid on as directed.
+Work the centre in Sorrento bars, and on these work a rosette in point
+d'Angleterre, the edge in point d'Angleterre edging, and the wheels in
+open English lace.
+
+[Illustration: 480.--Star in Point Lace.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 481.--_Medallion in Point Lace_.
+
+Materials: Linen Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 14.
+
+This medallion is useful for cravat ends and for a number of purposes,
+as trimming for sachets, dresses, &c. Having placed the braid as before
+directed, work an English rosette in the centre, fill in the ground with
+point de fillet or with point de Bruxelles. An edging of Spanish point
+completes this pretty medallion.
+
+[Illustration: 481.--Medallion in Point Lace.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 482.--_Point Lace Border_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12.
+
+This border represents the completed work shown on p. 454. A point
+d'Angleterre rosette is worked in each circle. The plain braid is
+edged by Sorrento edging. Venice bars are worked above the trimming, and
+treble point de Venise edges the border.
+
+[Illustration: 482.--Point Lace Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 483.--_Point Lace Border_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+10.
+
+This border is both easily and quickly worked in Sorrento bars. The edge
+is worked in two rows of point de Bruxelles.
+
+[Illustration: 483.--Point Lace Border.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 484.--_Insertion in Limoges Lace_.
+
+Materials: Plain linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 14.
+
+This insertion will be found very useful, being so quickly worked.
+Edge the braid with Sorrento edging, fill up with bars and plain point
+d'Alencon and Sorrento wheels, No. 456.
+
+[Illustration: 484.--Insertion in Limoges Lace.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 485--_Point Lace Border for Handkerchief._
+
+Materials: Fine lace braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 24.
+
+This border is suited for a handkerchief or for trimming a square
+bodice. The braid is not tacked on by stitches running through the
+centre, as is usual in point lace braids, but sewn on by passing a
+thread from underneath over the braid and out through the same hole, as
+is done by lace-workers with a thick thread; this forms the design. The
+stitches employed in this pattern are Raleigh bars, which connect the
+work; Sorrento edging, which finishes the whole outline; English
+rosettes filling the open spaces. Point lace cord may be used for this
+in place of braid.
+
+[Illustration: 485. Point Lace Border for Handkerchief.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+No. 486.--_Star-Centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos.
+16 and 12.
+
+[Illustration: 486.--Star-centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace.]
+
+This beautiful star will be found useful for other purposes than as a
+toilette cushion cover, and is worked as follows:--English rosette in
+centre; Sorrento wheels in the 4 ovals, worked with No. 12 thread; point
+de Bruxelles ground, worked with No. 16; braid edged by dotted Venetian
+edges. The eight spaces may be filled with 2 or 4 contrasting
+stitches, taking care that they contrast well, and are placed
+alternately, and worked in No. 12.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 487.--Cravat End in Point Lace.]
+
+487.--_Cravat End in Point Lace_.
+
+Materials: Fine braid: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread
+No. 12.
+
+This cravat is worked in Sorrento wheels, point d'Alencon
+bars, and Sorrento edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 488.--Point Lace Edging.]
+
+[Illustration: 489.--Point Lace Edging.]
+
+488 _and_ 489.--_Point Lace Edgings_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos.
+12 and 16.
+
+These edgings can be used as a finish to insertions and other trimmings
+or for edging couvrettes. No. 488 is worked with Sorrento wheels; the
+edge in two rows of point de Bruxelles, a straight thread being drawn
+from the end to the beginning of each scallop over which the second row
+is worked. No. 489 is worked with the same materials in treble point de
+Venise, edged by the same, and finished off with a row of point de
+Bruxelles, the upper edge being worked in the same way.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+490.--_Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &c._
+
+Materials: Linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread Nos. 10 and 16.
+
+This design may be used for a variety of purposes, and is extremely
+effective. The principal stitches required are given at the sides of the
+pattern. _a_ is Valenciennes lace, _b_ Brussels net, _c_ Venetian
+spotted, _d_ Sorrento edging, _e_ Mechlin wheel, _f_ English rosette,
+_g_ Raleigh bars.
+
+[Illustration: 490.--Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+491.--_Oval for Cravats, &c._
+
+Materials: Point lace cord; muslin; embroidery cotton; Messrs. Walter
+Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 14 and 18.
+
+This beautiful oval is worked in point lace and embroidery. This is
+begun from the centre on the muslin by over-casting the space filled by a
+wheel. The eyelet-holes are then worked, and the satin stitch ornament
+raised and prepared for working. The edge, of point lace cord, is then
+laid on, and the under portion edged in tight and open point de
+Bruxelles, the centre of the circles being worked in point de Bruxelles.
+The light groundwork is worked entirely in Mechlin wheels, the satin
+stitch being worked when these are completed. This pattern can be
+enlarged and applied to many purposes. The muslin is cut away when the
+whole work is finished.
+
+[Illustration: 491.--Oval Pattern for Ornamenting Cravats, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+492.--_Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice_.
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12 or 20.
+
+We give two sizes of thread, as this design is capable of many uses, and
+the size of the thread differs with these. The pattern is worked in
+English rosettes and bars (see No. 467). No. 488 edging looks well with
+this pattern.
+
+[Illustration: 492.--Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+493--_Point Lace Collar._
+
+Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 22.
+
+[Illustration: 493--Point Lace Collar.]
+
+Set on the braid or cord by passing a thread through a hole pricked
+in the pattern over the braid and out again through the same hole. Edge
+the braid with point de Bruxelles, the design being filled by Mechlin
+wheels, Sorrento wheels, point de feston, and the mixed stitch shown in
+No. 494, which is composed of d'Alencon and Sorrento bars, and is easily
+worked. Those who cannot work Mechlin wheels easily, can substitute
+close English, as shown in illustration No. 495. The bars are Sorrento.
+
+[Illustration: 494.--D'Alencon and Sorrento Bars.]
+
+[Illustration: 495.--Close English Wheels.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+[Illustration: 496--Point Lace Collar.]
+
+496.--_Point Lace Collar._
+
+Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 22.
+
+This collar is worked in the same way as No. 493, though the stitches
+vary. The Grecian line is worked in point de reprise, the pattern in
+close English wheels, point de reprise, point de Bruxelles, English
+rosettes, and Raleigh bars.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 497.--Point Lace Lappet.]
+
+497.--_Point Lace Lappet._
+
+Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+16 or 24, according to the fineness required.
+
+This lappet is exceedingly pretty. It is composed of the following
+stitches:--Point d'Alencon, point de tulle, English rosettes, Sorrento
+bars, d'Alencon bars, dotted Venise bars, and the fancy stitch point
+d'Anvers, which is not a true point lace stitch, but which is much
+employed in modern point.
+
+[Illustration: 497.--Point Lace Lappet.]
+
+[Illustration: 498.--Point d'Anvers.]
+
+[Illustration: 499.--Point Grecque.]
+
+Point Grecque is another useful variety of fancy stitch, and so easily
+worked as to be a favourite stitch with beginners.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 500.--Letter A in Point Lace.]
+
+[Illustration: 501.--Letter A Enlarged.]
+
+_500 to 502.--Alphabet in Point Lace. (See endpapers.)_
+
+Materials: Point lace cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 36.
+
+This alphabet is useful for marking pocket-handkerchiefs, and for
+initials for sachets, &c. The cord is laid upon the pattern and pricked
+out by passing a thread up through a hole over the cord, and back
+through the same hole; then pass on to the next hole, and repeat. The
+holes should be about an eighth of an inch apart, or nearer when the
+pattern is finely convoluted. The letters are worked in point de
+Bruxelles, point d'Alencon, and dotted Sorrento bars. No. 501 shows the
+letter A greatly enlarged, to show the mode of working.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+TABLE OF THREADS SUITED TO VARIOUS
+ARTICLES WORKED IN POINT LACE.
+
+|----------------------------------|-------------------|
+|Caps                              |    36   "   "     |
+|Collars                           |    30   "   "     |
+|Couvrettes                        |    2   4   6      |
+|Cravats                           |    18  30   "     |
+|D'Oyleys                          |     8  10  12     |
+|Dress Trimmimgs                   |    22  30   "     |
+|Edgings                           |    14  30   "     |
+|Handkerchiefs                     |    30  36  40     |
+|Insertions, coarse                |    6   8  12      |
+|   "        fine                  |    24  30   "     |
+|----------------------------------|-------------------|
+
+Point lace cord runs about twelve yards to the hank.
+
+Point lace edged braid runs thirty-six yards on cards.
+
+Plain linen twelve yards in each hank.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+GUIPURE D'ART.
+
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS
+
+IN
+
+GUIPURE D'ART.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Ancient Guipure was a lace made of thin vellum, covered with gold,
+silver, or silk thread, and the word Guipure derives its name from the
+silk when thus twisted round vellum being called by that name. In
+process of time the use of vellum was discontinued, and a cotton
+material replaced it. Guipure lace was called _intelle a cartisane_ in
+England in the sixteenth century. Various modern laces are called
+Guipure, but the word is misapplied, since Guipure lace is that kind
+only where one thread is twisted round another thread or another
+substance, as in the ancient Guipure d'Art.
+
+In every design where lace can be introduced, Guipure d'Art will be
+found useful. It looks particularly well when mounted upon quilted silk
+or satin. The squares, when worked finely, look well as toilet-cushions,
+or, if worked in coarser thread, make admirable couvrettes, and as
+covers for eider-down silk quilts are very elegant. Guipure squares
+should be connected by guipure lace, crochet, or tatting, or they may be
+edged with narrow guipure lace and joined at the corners only when
+placed over coloured silk or satin; thus arranged, a sofa-cushion
+appears in alternate squares of plain and lace-covered silk; a ruche of
+ribbon and fall of lace to correspond completes this pretty mounting.
+
+Not one of the least important attractions of Guipure d'Art is the speed
+with which it is worked, and the ease with which fresh patterns are
+designed by skilful workers.
+
+GUIPURE D'ART is an imitation of the celebrated ancient Guipure Lace,
+and is worked in raised and intersected patterns upon a square network
+of linen thread, Mecklenburg thread of various sizes being used for this
+purpose. The needles employed are blunt, and have large eyes, to admit
+the linen thread.
+
+Materials required: One frame of wire covered with silk ribbon; one
+square of Mecklenburg thread net (_fillet_), either coarse or fine;
+Mecklenburg thread; netting-needles and meshes of various sizes.
+
+The netted foundation, or "_fillet_," upon which this elegant work is
+embroidered, can be made by ladies very easily, and at much less cost
+than when bought ready made.
+
+The square is worked by netting with coarse No. 2 or fine No.10 thread
+over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch or more, in rows
+backwards and forwards. Begin with 2 stitches, and increase 1 at the end
+of every row till you have one more stitch than is required for the
+number of holes. Thus, if a square of 26 holes is required, continue to
+increase up to 27 stitches, then decrease 1 at the end of every row till
+2 stitches only remain. The last 2 stitches are knotted together without
+forming a fresh stitch.
+
+The completed foundation is laced upon the frame, taking the lacing
+cotton through the double edge formed by the increased and decreased
+stitches. If the four corners of the netting are tied at each corner of
+the frame before beginning the lacing, that operation is greatly
+facilitated. The netting should be laced as tightly as possible, it
+being far easier to darn on than when loose.
+
+[Illustration: 503.--Frame for Guipure d'Art.]
+
+Ladies who wish to excel in working guipure d'art should practise each
+of the stitches until they attain perfect regularity and quickness in
+their execution. Two or three hours devoted to this in the first
+instance will not be time wasted, as the most elaborate pattern will be
+worked with ease as soon as the stitches are mastered.
+
+The Mecklenburg thread of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, will
+be found a better colour than any other, as it closely resembles the
+shade of the ancient guipure lace.
+
+It is sold only in spools of 200 yards each, and the numbers run as
+follow; No. 2, 4, 6, 8, lo, 12, 16, 20; No. 2 being the coarsest, and
+No. 20 the finest.
+
+The principal stitches used in guipure d'art are POINT D'ESPRIT, POINT
+DE TOILE, POINT DE FESTON, POINT DE REPRISE, POINT DE BRUXELLES, and
+WHEELS and STARS. POINT D'ESPRIT is worked with finer cotton than the
+foundation, say No. 10 on a foundation of No. 6. It consists of a
+succession of small loops, as will be seen clearly in the illustration.
+The learner should begin from the mark * No. 503, and working a row of
+loops the length required, turn the frame and work loops on the opposite
+half of each square intersecting the first worked loops in the centre of
+each intervening bar of netting. A careful examination of Nos. 503 and
+506 will explain this more clearly than is possible in words.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 504.--Point d'Esprit.]
+
+POINT DE TOILE, or LINEN STITCH, is plain darning under and over each
+thread; this forms a fine close groundwork, and is much used in guipure
+d'art. Care should be taken to keep the same number of stitches in each
+square, both along and across; the number of threads shown in
+illustration No. 504 is 4 only, but 6 and even 8 are used in many netted
+foundations in fine patterns.
+
+[Illustration: 505.--Point de Toile.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINT DE FESTON is worked by a series of overcast stitches, as seen by
+illustration 506, which clearly shows the manner of working. The frame
+is turned at each stitch, the stitches are taken across the squares, and
+increase in length at the top of the square.
+
+[Illustration: 506.--Point de Feston.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINT DE REPRISE, or DARNING, is worked by stretching 2 or 3 threads
+over 1, or 2, or more squares. The thread is darned over and under, and
+the needle used to arrange the last stitch while passing through to form
+the next. This stitch is very easily acquired. It is always worked with
+coarser thread than the foundation; No. 2 thread should be employed for
+a coarse groundwork. No. 510 shows this stitch used to form stars,
+figures, &c.
+
+[Illustration: 507--Point de Reprise.]
+
+[Illustration: 508.--Leaf.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+POINT DE BRUXELLES, as shown on pages 506 and 507, is a kind of loose
+button-hole stitch, and is used for forming various patterns and for
+filling up squares. It also forms "leaves," when the number of stitches
+is decreased each row until the leaf finishes off in a point. Nos. 509
+and 510 clearly show this stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 509.--Point de Bruxelles.]
+
+[Illustration: 510.--Point de Bruxelles.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+WHEELS are easy to work, and are begun in the centre. Four threads are
+taken across, as shown in design No. 511; the thread is twisted in
+bringing it back to the centre, and the wheel formed by passing the
+thread under and over the netting and the crossing threads. It is
+fastened off on the back of the several wheels.
+
+[Illustration: 511.--Wheel (commenced).]
+
+[Illustration: 512.--Wheel.]
+
+Wheel No. 513 is a square wheel, and is worked in the same manner, with
+the addition of point d'esprit loops, through which, and under and over
+the cross-twisted threads, 4 or 5 rows of thread are passed.
+
+[Illustration: 513.--Square Wheel.]
+
+[Illustration: 514.--Wheel larger than its real size.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+STARS are of various form, as shown in Nos. 516, 517, 518, 519, and 520.
+
+No. 516 is worked in point de feston (see page 507) round a single
+square hole, which is filled in by a small wheel or rosette.
+
+No. 517 is worked in point de feston and point de Bruxelles,
+alternately round a centre simply crossed by point d'esprit threads.
+
+[Illustration: 516.--Star.]
+
+No. 518 is more elaborate, and is worked thus:--Begin at the place
+marked _a_; twist the linen thread 3 times round the nearest thread,
+draw it on to the knot _b_; repeat this 3 times, following the order of
+the letters; twist the linen thread also between the threads, as can be
+seen from the illustration, and fasten it underneath the knot _a_; for
+the wheel fasten on the cotton afresh and work the remaining pattern in
+darning stitch (point de reprise).
+
+[Illustration: 517.--Star.]
+
+[Illustration: 518.--Star.]
+
+No. 520 consists of a double cross formed by twisted loops of linen
+thread. Copy these loops exactly from illustration 520 One part of the
+straight cross lies underneath, then comes the slanting cross, and
+lastly, the other part of the straight cross.
+
+[Illustration: 519.--Detail of Star.]
+
+[Illustration: 520.--Star.]
+
+In the centre the loops of linen thread are fastened with two rounds of
+stitches. (See illustration 520).
+
+OVERCAST STITCH is worked like embroidery overcast, and forms the stems
+of the flowers and leaves of guipure d'art; it is worked over one or two
+coarse threads. It is employed in No. 530, and forms the triangles in
+the centre of the middle squares.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 521.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+521.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art._
+
+Materials: Guipure frame netting of 6 holes wide; Mecklenburg thread No.
+8 or 10; needle No. 7.
+
+For the netted foundation, which is six holes wide, begin at one corner
+with 2 stitches, work 5 rows, at the end of each of which increase 1
+stitch, continue to work the strip with the same number of stitches,
+alternately decreasing 1 at the end of one row and increasing 1 at the
+end of the next. For decreasing net 2 stitches together, for increasing
+net 2 stitches in the same hole. When the strip is sufficiently long,
+complete it by decreasing in the same proportion as the increasing at
+the beginning. As the pattern is so clearly shown in the illustration,
+it will be very easy to work from it. It is worked in point de feston
+and star wheels; the border is in point d'esprit. The insertion is
+finished on either side with a row of button-hole stitches.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+522.--_Lace Border in Guipure D'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 10.
+
+This border may be used for various purposes; it makes a pretty edging
+for toilet cushions if worked in fine thread, and looks equally well for
+trimming couvrettes, &c., in No. 2 thread. The netting is nine holes
+wide, the stitches employed are point d'esprit and point de feston, the
+edge is in button-hole stitch, the netted ground is cut away outside the
+scallops.
+
+[Illustration: 522.--Lace Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+523.--_Square for D'Oyley_
+
+Materials: Frame; 1 square of netting; Mecklenburg reel thread Nos. 8
+and 10; needle No. 6.
+
+[Illustration: 523.--Pattern of Square for D'Oyley.]
+
+This square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a d'oyley, or
+pincushion. The three other corners of the square are worked exactly
+like the one seen in illustration; the rosette in the centre is shown in
+full size. The square is worked in point d'esprit, linen stitch, and
+point de reprise. Each of the leaves of the foliage is worked in one
+hole of the netting; they are worked by throwing the cotton three times
+across the hole, and working darning stitch on them. The stem is worked
+in overcast on the thread of the netting. The daisy in the centre is
+worked like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of the
+netting.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 524.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+524 _and_ 525.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 for
+couvrettes, No. 8 for pillow-cases, No. 16 for lace edgings.
+
+These corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small couvrettes;
+the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch, darning stitch,
+point de Bruxelles, and wheels. The edge is formed by button-hole
+stitches. The netting is cut away after these are worked.
+
+[Illustration: 525.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+526.--_Strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art._
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.
+
+This strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in zigzag
+lines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit and point de
+toile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the triangle left by the
+zigzag line. This pattern is so easy to work that it hardly needs
+description, the only part requiring care being the squares of point de
+feston; these are begun in the centre, and the thread should be drawn
+rather tightly so as to form a good square.
+
+[Illustration: 526.--Pattern for a strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+527.--_Small Square_.
+
+Materials: Frame; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and No. 16 for the pattern.
+
+[Illustration: 527.--Small Square.]
+
+Work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of each
+square, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in breadth. It
+is embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit, and wheels. The
+outer edge is worked round in button-hole stitch. Larger squares are
+worked in the same manner, only a few rows larger in length and breadth.
+The squares are fastened together with a few stitches, and sewn on the
+pincushion or any article they are intended to ornament.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+528.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8, or
+16 for very fine work.
+
+This strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all kinds of
+lingeries. The size of the material depends, of course, on the use to
+be made of the insertion. The guipure pattern is worked in linen stitch
+and point d'esprit, the raised leaves in darning stitch. The edges are
+worked round with button-hole stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 528.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+529.--_Rosette in Guipure d'Art._
+
+[Illustration: 529.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 6.
+
+This rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. A larger
+wheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of overcast.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+530.--_Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: One guipure frame; Mecklenburg thread Nos. 6 and 12; needle
+No. 7.
+
+[Illustration: 530.--Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+This pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in guipure
+d'art. The outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a border in
+linen stitch. There are large stars in the corners; these stars are
+worked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the netting at the
+points of each brand; in the centre of the star there is a wheel (see
+No. 515) edged with button-hole stitch. The pattern for the centre, one
+quarter of which only is seen in the illustration, consists of 4
+branches forming small triangles in point de Bruxelles, 4 open-worked
+stars or wheels worked over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branched
+centre of point de feston with a wheel in the middle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+531 _and_ 532.--_Square Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s linen thread No. 2 for the
+netting, and their Mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches No. 8.
+
+[Illustration: 531.--Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+No. 531. The outer border of this pretty square is worked in point
+d'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a round of
+small wheels or rosettes.
+
+For these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first square
+stitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three other knots,
+so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the centre point of the
+cross, passing alternately under and over its branches, then twist the
+cotton over the threads of the foundation until the next square is
+reached, and begin another wheel.
+
+[Illustration: 532.--Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+The centre of No. 531 is composed of wheels and point de reprise; the
+pattern round the centre is worked in point de feston, differing a
+little from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the illustration
+clearly shows the difference.
+
+No. 532 has similar borders to No. 531; the centre is occupied by a star
+(see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels surround this; the
+square stitches between are filled with small wheels and with groups of
+long loops, fastened together in sheaves. Point d'esprit and point de
+toile, worked one way only, complete this square.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+533 _to_ 536.--_Four Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 or 16,
+according to the size of the work.
+
+These four patterns will be found useful for filling up small squares,
+or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit.
+
+[Illustration: 533.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+No. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half fill
+each square of the netting. This pattern must be worked with great
+regularity.
+
+[Illustration: 534.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+No. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit.
+
+No. 535 is a thread twisted and taken _across_ each square, and
+resembles lace stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 535.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+No. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with point
+d'esprit. This grounding is very effective.
+
+[Illustration: 536.--Pattern in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+537.--_Lace Border for Veils, &c_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 16;
+strip of square netting of the required length; oblong frame.
+
+This simple border is easily and quickly worked. The edge is overcast,
+the ground worked in point d'esprit, the border in point de toile, and
+the pattern in point de reprise. When completed the netting is cut away
+from the overcast edge.
+
+[Illustration: 537.--Lace Border for Veils, &c.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+538 _and_ 538_a_.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10 or 16, according to the fineness
+required.
+
+[Illustration: 538.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+These squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or handkerchiefs.
+They are worked on netting with very fine cotton in the usual manner,
+beginning on two stitches in one corner The different stitches of the
+guipure darning can be distinctly seen in illustration, and are point de
+feston, point de reprise, point de toile, and point d'esprit on No. 538,
+and the same stitches surround a wheel in No. 538_a_.
+
+[Illustration: 538_a_.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 539.--Guipure d'Art Insertion.]
+
+539.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 8 to
+16; strip of netting length, required.
+
+
+This insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in point
+de feston. The ground in point d'esprit.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+540 _and_ 541.--_Square in Guipure Point de Venise (Reticella)_
+
+Materials: Coarse or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 4 or 12.
+
+[Illustration: 540.--Square in Point de Venise.]
+
+[Illustration: 541.--Quarter Square in Reticella Work (Enlarged).]
+
+This square is worked in the so-called point de Venise, together with
+other squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions, &c. It is
+worked on coarse or fine linen, according to the use you wish to make
+of it. Prepare a square piece of linen, by drawing out long and cross
+threads, so as to form perfect squares. In the pattern No. 540, which is
+worked on fine linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long and
+cross way; 8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threads
+have been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form the
+framework. Then fasten the piece of linen on cardboard, and work close
+button-hole stitch round the inner edge Then work with darning stitch
+over the long and cross threads of the ground.
+
+From No. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times larger
+than full size, it is easy to see how the framework is darned. When the
+latter is entirely darned, work the patterns in the different squares in
+button-hole stitch. The circular and serpentine patterns consist of 3
+rows of button-hole stitch; the patterns which imitate whole rosettes
+and half rosettes are worked in rows of button-hole stitch. For each row
+the thread must be first drawn from one place to the other, as can be
+seen in illustration, and fastened on the framework. The knots in the
+last button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch when
+completed, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through the
+first completed knot. It is easy, however, to work all the patterns from
+No. 541. The dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the direction of
+the patterns which are wanting there. The square is edged all round with
+an open-work hem, which can also be worked from No. 541.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+542 _and_ 543.--_Corner Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.
+
+These patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs, &c. The
+netted ground is to be worked from the corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and
+work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of
+every row. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, linen, and darning
+stitch, as can be seen in illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 542 and 543--Corner Borders.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+544.--_Flower for Ornamenting Cravats and Caps in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Black or coloured silks, or Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 10.
+
+[Illustration: 544.--Flower in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+This pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse silk in
+guipure d'art on netting. This pattern can also be worked with white
+thread or black silk in point de reprise.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+545.--_Work Basket with Covering of Darned Netting_.
+
+Materials: Bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting; Messrs.
+Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 16.
+
+[Illustration: 545.--Work Basket Covered with Guipure d'Art.]
+
+This elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin, fastened on
+cardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. The stand of varnished bamboo
+is twelve inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and five and a half
+inches high. The case inside is made of cardboard, covered on both sides
+with blue satin, and the guipure d'art on the outside only. The stitches
+used are point de toile, point de reprise, and point d'esprit.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+546 _and_ 547.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12 or
+20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness required.
+
+[Illustration: 546.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+Both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting lingerie,
+cravats, collars, &c. Repeated at regular intervals on a larger centre,
+they are likewise suitable for couvrettes, cushions, pillow-cases, &c.;
+they are worked in darning and linen stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 547.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+548.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required length;
+Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 12.
+
+This simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked at each
+side of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of button-hole stitches being
+worked between the rows.
+
+[Illustration: 549.--Guipure d'Art Insertion.]
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+550 _and_ 551.--_Squares for Antimacassar_.
+
+Materials: Square of netting of 12 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's
+Mecklenburg thread No. 8.
+
+[Illustration: 550.--Square for Antimacassar.]
+
+No. 550 is very quickly worked. The border and groundwork in point
+d'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in point de
+toile. Wheels fill in the four holes in the centre of the squares.
+
+No. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in point de
+feston, the other stitches are point de toile. Wheels in part of star
+pattern No. 518.
+
+[Illustration: 551.--Square for Antimacassar.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+552 _and_ 553.--_Borders in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 16.
+
+These corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and, worked with
+fine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. The netted ground of the borders
+is to be worked in the size seen in illustration; for the border No. 553
+darn the ground in button-hole stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit,
+and point de feston; the pattern No. 552 is worked in linen stitch and
+point d'esprit; small wheels are also to be worked. Both borders are to
+be worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut away
+along the outside.
+
+[Illustration: 552.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+[Illustration: 553.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+554 _and_ 555.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20;
+netted squares of 7 and 8 holes.
+
+[Illustration: 554.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+These two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats, lappets
+for caps and lingeries. They are worked in darning and linen stitch. The
+centre part of the square, No. 554, is a small wheel covered with raised
+stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 555.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+556.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.
+
+The centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well as the
+border; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in the
+centre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked.
+
+[Illustration: 556.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+557.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Strip of netting of 4 holes in width; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.
+
+The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit, square
+wheels are worked in the centre of the strip.
+
+[Illustration: 557.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+558 _to_ 563.--_Different Strips of Insertion, Rosettes and Lace, in
+Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread Nos. 16 and 20.
+
+These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very suitable for
+ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. The ground of insertion, Nos. 558
+and 560, is worked with fine white cotton over a fine steel
+knitting-needle, in slanting netting, and darned with thread in the
+manner seen in illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 rounds
+wide, and worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned
+patterns can be worked from illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 558.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+[Illustration: 559.--Insertion in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 560.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine
+knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st round
+work 2 stitches in every stitch. In the 2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitches
+in every increased stitch of the preceding round, and in every other
+stitch 1 stitch. In the 6th round take a steel knitting-needle double
+the size of the first, and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the
+preceding round. Then work the 7th round over the fine needle as
+follows:--
+
+[Illustration: 561.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first, and work
+1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the first, and then
+1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round work always 2
+stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed stitches, 1 stitch in all
+the other stitches. Lastly, darn the rosette, from illustration, with
+fine glazed cotton.
+
+For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563, cast on
+6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then in the 1st
+round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8 rounds 2 stitches
+in every increased stitch, in all the other stitches 1 stitch. The last
+(10th) round is worked without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, from
+illustrations, with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point
+d'esprit. The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole
+stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These two
+rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes.
+
+[Illustration: 562.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+[Illustration: 563.--Rosette in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of straight
+netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side, and worked
+round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration. This ground is
+darned, from No. 561, in darning stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch,
+and ornamented with bars and wheels (See illustration).
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 564.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+564 _and_ 565.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20 for
+handkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes.
+
+These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes, &c., or
+as strips of insertion for cushions or pillow-cases. They are worked with
+more or less fine cotton, according to the use they are meant for.
+They are edged round with button-hole stitch on the outside, and
+finished off with a row of crochet purl. Work 1 double in every
+button-hole stitch; after every other stitch draw out the loop on the
+needle about one-tenth of an inch; take out the needle and leave the
+loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last double stitch, and cast it off
+with the next double stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 565.--Corner Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+566.--_Jewel Case, forming Pincushion_.
+
+Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin and silk
+cord; guipure netting.
+
+This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with satin,
+and slightly quilted; it is also covered on the top with satin, and
+ornamented all round with a satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide,
+pleated in the manner seen in illustration. The top of the box is
+stuffed so as to form a pincushion. It is then covered with guipure
+d'art No. 567. Ornament all round with silk cords, and at the corners
+with bows of satin ribbon.
+
+[Illustration: 566.--Jewel Case, with Pincushion.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+567.--_Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case_.
+
+Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 14.
+
+This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point
+de reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced occasionally.
+
+[Illustration: 567.--Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case (No. 566).]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+568.--_Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (Seepage 580.)_
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20, and
+cotton No. 80.
+
+For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our illustration
+two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight strip of netting for
+the foundation, which must count as many holes in width as are required
+for the width of the covering. The size of the holes depends on the size
+of the knitting-needle or mesh which you use. The pattern is worked with
+cotton No. 80, over a steel knitting-needle which measures two-fifths of
+an inch round. Begin the strip in one corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and
+work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of
+every row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holes
+in width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same number
+of stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the end of 1 row,
+and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip is 250 stitches
+long. The strip is finished off in a straight line at the bottom by
+working a certain number of rows in which the last stitch remains
+untouched. At the beginning of the row do not work 1 stitch ever the
+mesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the preceding row, so that the
+cotton is drawn on tight. When the strip is completed, trace from No.
+568 the outlines for the pattern of each of the eight parts of the
+parasol with double thread, in such a manner that two parts lie next to
+each other, but reversed, that is, the point of one part must lie next
+to the wide part of the next part. Then work in each part the pattern
+seen in illustration, and afterwards each part round with button-hole
+stitch, working over the double outline. Cut out the different parts,
+and sew them together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 569.--Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+569.--_Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 18;
+green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk cord.
+
+The size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. The netting must
+be fastened in a frame, and darned with fine thread; the flowers are
+worked in darning stitch, and the ground in point d'esprit. The cushion
+is made of green satin, perfumed with poudre d'iris. When the netting
+has been fastened on, it is edged all round with a green satin ruche,
+and green silk cord, forming loops at every corner.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 570.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+570.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Netted square of 26 stitches; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 12.
+
+This pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline of
+point de reprise. This outline may be worked in close button-hole
+stitch. Point de toile is used for the groundwork, upon which point de
+reprise is worked.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+571 _and_ 572.--_Work Case in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Blue satin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread
+No. 16; blue silk cord.
+
+[Illustration: 571.--Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Back).]
+
+This little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five inches
+and four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with a loop and
+button. The back, front, side, and the flap are worked all in one piece.
+The netting is worked with white thread No. 12, over a mesh measuring at
+least two-fifths of an inch round. For the flap the netting must be
+slanted off on both sides; this is done either by decreasings, or by
+cutting off the corners of the work. The latter is then darned in linen
+stitch, darning stitch, and point d'esprit, from No. 572, which shows
+the front of the case, and from No. 571, which shows the back. The
+netting is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sides
+with button-hole stitches on the right side. The flap is edged with
+button-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop to
+correspond. The case is edged all round with blue silk cord.
+
+[Illustration: 572.--Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Front).]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+573.--_Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread
+No. 12; carved oak stand; glace silk; cords; tassels.
+
+Banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from the
+mantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration No. 573. The banner is
+23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glace silk, and
+edged with a lace border of guipure d'art. The design for the banner is
+given in page 554. Work the netting for the groundwork over a larger or
+smaller mesh, according to the size you wish it to be. The pattern is
+worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, and point de toile. When the
+ pattern is completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with a
+gathered border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords and
+tassels. The banner may be finished off in close button-hole stitch,
+instead of adding the lace border.
+
+[Illustration: 573.--Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 575.--Border in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+575.--_Border in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.
+
+This border is suited for couvrettes. It is worked in point d'esprit,
+point de reprise, or plain darning stitch, edged by a row of
+button-hole, and finished with a crochet edging.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 576.--Square in Guipure d'Art.]
+
+576.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.
+
+Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12;
+netted square of 20 holes.
+
+This pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de feston,
+point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the centre as that
+shown on page 514, omitting the alternate points; border of point
+d'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars.
+
+Table of the right size of Mecklenburg thread to use in working:--
+
+|----------------------------------|--------------|
+|                                  |    No.       |
+|----------------------------------|--------------|
+|  Antimacassars                   |    2         |
+|  Borders                         |    4         |
+|  Handkerchiefs                   |    20        |
+|  Insertions                      |    8         |
+|  Lace edgings and insertions     |    16        |
+|  Lamp shades                     |    16        |
+|  Parasol covers                  |    18        |
+|  Sachets                         |    12        |
+|  Sofa cushions                   |    8         |
+|  Toilet cushions                 |    10        |
+|  Toilet mats                     |    10        |
+|----------------------------------|--------------|
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+FRAMES
+
+May be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares.
+
+Oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace edgings.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+BERLIN WORK
+
+
+INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon canvas with
+wool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are common cross
+stitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or velvet stitch, tent
+stitch, and others. The materials and needle must always be carefully
+chosen of a corresponding size. For common cross stitch and raised
+stitch Penelope canvas must be used; for small articles, such as
+slippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin wool is preferable; for larger
+ones fleecy wool or double Berlin wool (the latter, however, is much
+more expensive). For Gobelin stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas
+(not Penelope) is required. Purse silk is often used for the latter; it
+is more brilliant than floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generally
+used for other stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas
+better than purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle,
+which is a much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Before
+beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be hemmed or
+sewn over with wool. Care must be taken not to crumple the canvas in
+the course of the work. It is best to roll one end of the canvas upon a
+round piece of deal while the other end is kept down upon the table with
+a lead cushion. Handsome artistic patterns should always be worked in a
+frame. When you undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre,
+and complete one half before you commence the other. Always work the
+stitches in the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very
+essential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern.
+
+Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those colours
+that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When the pattern is
+finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be drawn too tightly,
+otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If the wool is too coarse
+for the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as far
+as the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch,
+cross back in the usual way.
+
+The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross stitch;
+illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same.
+
+We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writing
+and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used in
+Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great in number nor too
+simple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to become
+Berlin workers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 577.--Common Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 577.--The common cross stitch is worked in rows backwards
+and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of the
+canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the
+2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. Illustration
+577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 578.--Long Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like the
+preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 579.--Long Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like the
+preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, and
+in the next row the stitches are worked between those in the preceding
+row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; each
+stitch is completed before beginning the next.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 580.--Slanting Cross Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 580.--The long slanting cross stitch is worked like No.
+578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd is
+straight. The places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out are
+marked on the illustration with a cross and dot.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 581.--Damask Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 581.--The damask stitch is worked in single rows from left
+to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The stitches of one
+row come between those of the next. The cross and dot shown in
+illustration are where to insert and draw out the needle.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 582.--Rep Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the preceding. The
+first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 in
+width, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to left
+over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completed
+at once. The illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the first
+half of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must be
+inserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed
+on illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 583.--Leviathan Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 583.--The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1
+straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Each
+stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half of the stitch
+completed and the wool as it must be placed for working the first half
+of the straight cross stitch.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 584.--Leviathan Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 584.--The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like the
+preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in the
+different rows, as may be seen from illustration.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 585.--Double Leviathan Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 585.--The double leviathan stitch is a variety of the
+preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width.
+Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long cross
+stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. Illustration 585
+shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 586.--Tent Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 586.--Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1 stitch in
+height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 587.--Slanting Gobelin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 587.--The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on undivided
+canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width,
+divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 588.--Straight Gobelin Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 588.--The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threads
+in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear more
+raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ILLUSTRATION 589.--The raised or velvet stitch is worked over small
+round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2 similar meshes
+and as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; make
+first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common cross
+stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the place
+where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as to
+form a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin to
+work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in a
+slanting direction underneath. On the wrong side of the work a regular
+cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitch
+completed and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on the
+mesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the wool
+upon the mesh. Observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are worked
+upwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must not
+be drawn out before the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open
+if preferred.
+
+[Illustration: 589.--Raised or Velvet Stitch.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: 590.--Plaited Stitch.]
+
+ILLUSTRATION 590.--The plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bone
+stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width.
+Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and the
+place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is marked
+by a dot. For the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threads
+below the stitches of the preceding row.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ILLUSTRATION 591.--The plush stitch is also worked upwards. Begin to
+work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvas
+over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slanting
+direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging down
+about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitch
+to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be worked over flat meshes.
+Work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. When the work is
+completed the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen from
+illustration.
+
+[Illustration: 591.--Plush Stitch.]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.--Three Berlin wool work borders for trimming
+baskets, &c. No. 592.--The 2 outer rows which edge the border are worked
+in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre with
+a back stitch.
+
+[Illustration: 592.--Berlin Work Border.]
+
+The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite each other,
+which are formed of long straight stitches of different lengths. The
+squares in the centre are formed in the same way, and are completed in
+the middle with a knot. No. 593.--The ground is worked in cross stitch,
+the raised patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there
+is a cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2
+threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No. 594.--The
+petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height and in width,
+and consisting of 4 slanting stitches.
+
+[Illustration: 593--Berlin Work Border.]
+
+[Illustration: 594.--Berlin Work Border.]
+
+In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in cross
+stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of scallops,
+formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1 slanting stitch.
+It is easy to work these stitches from illustration. The choice of
+colours depends upon what use the border is intended for and upon
+personal taste.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+  PLATES
+
+  [Illustration: TATTED ANTIMACASSAR (see page 80).]
+
+  [Illustration: 214--COUVRETTE IN APPLIQUE]
+
+  [Illustration: 334--KNITTED TABLE COVER (_see page_ 347).]
+
+  [Illustration: 337--KNITTED D'OYLEY (_see page_ 352).]
+
+  [Illustration: 568.--PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART
+                                      (_see page 549_).]
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX.
+
+  ACACIA SPRAY in embroidery, 162.
+
+  Antimacassar, crochet, 276.
+
+  Antimacassar in tatting, 65.
+
+  Antimacassar, knitted, 318 to 320.
+
+  Applique, pattern for a couvrette in, 213 to 215.
+
+  Arm-chair, covered with crochet, 254.
+
+  Arm-chair in crochet, patterns for, 255,256.
+
+
+  BABY'S BOOT, knitted, 326.
+
+  Bag, crochet silk, over rings, 245.
+
+  Banner screen in guipure d'art, 573, 574.
+
+  BARS, POINT LACE.
+
+    D'Alencon, 463.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 467.
+
+    Point de Venise, edged, 468.
+
+    Point de Venise, dotted, 469.
+
+    Raleigh, 471, 472.
+
+    Sorrento, 461, 462.
+
+    Sorrento, dotted, 469.
+
+    Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466.
+
+  Basket, small, crochet, 239.
+
+  Basket, crochet, 272.
+
+  Basket, crochet, 273.
+
+  Basket, embroidered in chenille, 134.
+
+  Bedford plaited lace (1851), 423.
+
+  Bed-quilt, knitted border for, 327.
+
+  BERLIN WOOL-WORK INSTRUCTIONS, p. 559.
+  Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594.
+
+  BERLIN STITCHES.
+
+    Common cross stitch, 577.
+
+    Damask stitch, 581.
+
+    Leviathan stitch, 583, 584.
+
+    Leviathan double stitch, 585.
+
+    Long cross stitch, 578, 579.
+
+    Plaited stitch, 590.
+
+    Plush stitch, 591.
+
+    Raised or velvet stitch, 589.
+
+    Rep stitch, 582.
+
+    Slanting cross stitch, 580.
+
+    Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587.
+
+    Straight Gobelin stitch, 588.
+
+    Tent stitch, 586.
+
+  (Black lace) Buckingham point trolly (1851), 422.
+
+  Bodice, knitted, 324, 325.
+
+  Boot, baby's, knitted, 326
+
+  Borders, crochet, 252, 253
+
+  Border, embroidered, 150.
+
+  Border for a reading-desk in embroidery, 204.
+
+  Border for couvrettes, guipure d'art, 561.
+
+  Borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art, 564, 565.
+
+  Borders, guipure d'art, 552, 553, 557.
+
+  Border, guipure d'art, 575.
+
+  Border in crochet and tatting, 52.
+
+  Border in Oriental embroidery, 179.
+
+  Border in tatting and crochet, 6.
+
+  Border in tatting and crochet, 15.
+
+  Border in tatting and crochet, 22.
+
+  Border in tatting and lace stitch, 44.
+
+  Border in tatting, with beads, 13.
+
+  Border in tatting, with crochet edging, 5.
+
+  Border, knitted, 321.
+
+  Border, tatting, 47.
+
+  Borders, two crochet, 274, 275.
+
+  Border, with beads, tatted, 13.
+
+  Bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag, 169.
+
+  Braces, embroidered, 202.
+
+  Braces, knitted, 338.
+
+  Brioche cushion in crochet, 249.
+
+  Butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner, 212.
+
+
+  CAP, border for, in tatting, 38.
+
+  Cap crown in tatting, 37.
+
+  Cap in tatting, 38, 39.
+
+  Chenille, basket embroidered in, 134.
+
+  Cigar-case, embroidered, 190.
+
+  Circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in tatting, 21.
+
+  Circle in tatting, 12.
+
+  Circle in tatting, 21.
+
+  Circle in tatting, 57.
+
+  Collar in tatting, 56.
+
+  Collar in tatting and darned netting, 28.
+
+  Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 49.
+
+  Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 54.
+
+  Collar, pine pattern, in tatting, 1.
+
+  Collar, tatted, 55.
+
+  Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 49.
+
+  Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 54.
+
+  Comforters, &c., knitting stitch for, 336.
+
+  Convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery, 141.
+
+  Corner borders in guipure d'art, 524, 525.
+
+  Corner borders in guipure d'art, 542, 543.
+
+  Corner borders in guipure d'art, 564, 565.
+
+  Corner for handkerchief in point Russe embroidery, 149.
+
+  Corner in embroidery, 151.
+
+  Corner in embroidery, 152.
+
+  Cotton, tatting, page 82.
+
+  Couvrette, centre of a tatted, 25.
+
+  Couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet, 250.
+
+  Couvrette for arm-chair in crochet, 257.
+
+  Couvrette in applique, embroidery, 147.
+
+  Couvrette in crochet, 240 to 243.
+
+  Couvrette in tatting, 25.
+
+  Covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery, 138.
+
+  Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 184.
+
+  Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 185.
+
+  Cravat in tatting, 50.
+
+  Cravat end in embroidery, 136.
+
+  Cravat end in embroidery, 153.
+
+  Cravat end in raised embroidery, 156.
+
+  Cravat end in tatting, 60.
+
+  Cravat end in tatting, 62.
+
+  Cravat end in tatting and darned netting, 64.
+
+  Cravat end, oval, in tatting, 51.
+
+  Cravat in muslin and tatting, 50.
+
+  Cravat, muslin, embroidered, 153.
+
+  Crochet, antimacassar in, 276.
+
+  Crochet, arm-chair covered with, 254.
+
+  Crochet, arm-chair, patterns for, 255, 256.
+
+  Crochet bag, silk, over rings, 245.
+
+  Crochet basket, small, 239.
+
+  Crochet basket, 272.
+
+  Crochet basket, 273.
+
+  Crochet borders, 252, 253.
+
+  Crochet borders, two, 274, 275.
+
+  Crochet, brioche cushion, 249.
+
+  Crochet, couvrette for arm-chair, 257.
+
+  Crochet, couvrette in, 240 to 243.
+
+  Crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in, 250.
+
+  Crochet D'Oyleys in Imitation of Point Lace.
+
+    No. 1, 262.
+
+    No. 2, 263.
+
+    No. 3, 264.
+
+    No. 4, 265.
+
+    No. 5, 266.
+
+    No. 6, 267.
+
+    No. 7, 268.
+
+    No. 8, 269.
+
+    No. 9, 270.
+
+    No. 10, 271.
+
+  Crochet garter, 285.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 258.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 259.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 260.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 277.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 283.
+
+  Crochet, insertion, 284.
+
+  CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+    Crochet hook, page 185.
+
+    Foundation chain, double, 217.
+
+    Foundation chain, plain, 216.
+
+    Foundation chain, purl, 218.
+
+    Spots, raised, 232.
+
+    Spots, hollow, 233.
+
+    Spots, open work, 234.
+
+  Crochet, lace, 251.
+
+  Crochet, lace, 261.
+
+  Crochet, purse in, over rings, 248.
+
+  Crochet rosettes, 280, 281.
+
+  Crochet sovereign purse, 246.
+
+  Crochet, star in, 244.
+
+  Crochet, stars in, 247.
+
+  CROCHET STITCHES.
+
+    Cross stitch, 224.
+
+    Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231.
+
+    Double long treble stitch, 228.
+
+    Double stitch, 220, 221.
+
+    Long double stitch, 225.
+
+    Long treble stitch, 227.
+
+    Purl stitch, 236.
+
+    Purl stitch, 237.
+
+    Purl stitch, 238.
+
+    Raised treble stitch, 235.
+
+    Raised ribbed stitch, 222.
+
+    Raised slanting stitch, 223.
+
+    Slip stitch, 219.
+
+    Treble stitch, 226.
+
+  Crochet trimming for a lady's chemise, 286.
+
+  Crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in
+    applique and velvet ribbon, 282.
+
+  Crochet work, tobacco-pouch in, 278, 279.
+
+  Crochet work, work-basket in straw and, 272, 273.
+
+  Curtains, knitted pattern for, 339.
+
+
+  Daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette, 250.
+
+  Dalecarlian lace, 419.
+
+  Diamond in tatting, 20.
+
+  Diamond in tatting, 36.
+
+  Diamond in tatting, 53.
+
+  Diamond in tatting, 59.
+
+  Diamond netting, 306.
+
+  Diamond tatting for collars, &c., 20.
+
+  D'Oyleys, Crochet, in Imitation of Point Lace.
+
+    No. 1, 262.
+
+    No. 2, 263.
+
+    No. 3, 264.
+
+    No. 4, 265.
+
+    No. 5, 266.
+
+    No. 6, 267.
+
+    No. 7, 268.
+
+    No. 8, 269.
+
+    No. 9, 270.
+
+    No. 10, 271.
+
+  D'Oyley, knitted, 337.
+
+
+  EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS, POINT LACE.
+
+    Antwerp, 479.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 477.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 474,
+
+    Point d'Espagne, 478.
+
+    Point de Venise, 476.
+
+    Sorrento, 475.
+
+  Edging, embroidered, 178.
+
+  Embroidered border, 204.
+
+  Embroidered border, 150.
+
+  Embroidered bouquet for travelling bag, 169.
+
+  Embroidered braces, 202.
+
+  Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 201.
+
+  Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 203.
+
+  Embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner, 212.
+
+  Embroidered cigar-case, 190.
+
+  Embroidered edging, 178.
+
+  Embroidered handkerchief, 197.
+
+  Embroidered hanging letter-case, 176.
+
+  Embroidered in chenille, basket, 134.
+
+  Embroidered key-bag, 182.
+
+  Embroidered key-bag, 183.
+
+  Embroidered knife-basket, 159.
+
+  Embroidered knife-basket, 160.
+
+  Embroidered lace insertion, 207.
+
+  Embroidered lady's purse, 157.
+
+  Embroidered letter-case, pattern for, 177.
+
+  Embroidered linen collar, 193.
+
+  Embroidered linen collar, 194.
+
+  Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 166.
+
+  Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 167.
+
+  Embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for, 187.
+
+  Embroidered slipper, on Java canvas, 208.
+
+  Embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for, 209.
+
+  Embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196.
+
+  Embroidery, acacia spray in, 162.
+
+  Embroidery and stitching, insertion in, 132.
+
+  Embroidery, applique, couvrette in, 147.
+
+  Embroidery border for a reading-desk, 204.
+
+  Embroidery, border in Oriental, 179.
+
+  Embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in, 141.
+
+  Embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point Russe, 149.
+
+  Embroidery, corner in, 151.
+
+  Embroidery, corner in, 152.
+
+  Embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in, 138.
+
+  Embroidery, cravat end in, 136.
+
+  Embroidery, cravat end in, 153.
+
+  Embroidery, cravat end in raised, 156.
+
+  Embroidery, fuchsia spray in, 161.
+
+  Embroidery, glove-box in, 174.
+
+  Embroidery, glove-box in, 175.
+
+  Embroidery, handkerchief border in, 197.
+
+  Embroidery, handkerchief in, 140.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 131.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 142.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 145.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 146.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 155.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 165.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 188.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 189.
+
+  Embroidery, insertion in, 192.
+
+  EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS, p. 83.
+
+    Bead partly covered, 103.
+
+    Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102.
+
+    Bluebell, 113.
+
+    Bluebell, inner part, 114.
+
+    Bluebell, part of, 116.
+
+    Borders, 118, 119.
+
+    Ear of corn, 112.
+
+    Flower, 115.
+
+    Flower in satin stitch, 107.
+
+    Flower appliqued on net, 117,
+
+    Heartsease, 110.
+
+    Initials, 123 to 130.
+
+    Insertions, 120 to 122.
+
+    Leaf, 94.
+
+    Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91.
+
+    Leaf, raised, 92, 93.
+
+    Leaf, raised, 95.
+
+    Leaf, half of, 99.
+
+    Leaf, centre of, 100.
+
+    Raised embroidered leaf, 98.
+
+    Raised flower, 111.
+
+    Raised leaf, 96.
+
+    Raised leaf, 97.
+
+    Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91.
+
+    Rose in satin stitch, 108.
+
+    Rose, petal for, 109.
+
+    Star, 106.
+
+    Star in point de reprise, 105.
+
+    Star in satin stitch, 104.
+
+  STITCH, EMBROIDERY.
+
+    Stitch, back, 70.
+
+    Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 86, 87.
+
+    Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85.
+
+    Stitch, double overcast, 67.
+
+    Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75.
+
+    Stitch, ladder, 80, 81.
+
+    Stitch, overcast, 68.
+
+    Stitch, point croise, 71, 72.
+
+    Stitch, point de minute, 79.
+
+    Stitch, point de plume, 78.
+
+  STITCH, EMBROIDERY--_continued_.
+
+    Stitch, satin, raised, 76, 77.
+
+    Stitch, scallop, 66.
+
+    Stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89.
+
+    Stitch, slanting overcast, 89.
+
+  Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 198.
+
+  Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 199.
+
+  Embroidery, medallion in point Russe, 210.
+
+  Embroidery, medallion in point Russc, 211.
+
+  EMBROIDERY, MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in coral stitch, 353.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in floral, 361.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in florid style, 356.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in forget-me-nots, 352.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet, point d'or, 357.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet, raised satin stitch, 359.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet in satin stitch, 351.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet scalloped, 355.
+
+    Embroidery, alphabet, small, 354.
+
+    Embroidery, initials in, 366 to 417.
+
+    Embroidery, monograms in, 366 to 417.
+
+    Embroidery, names in, 362 to 418.
+
+    Embroidery, sampler in, 360.
+
+    Embroidery, star alphabet, capitals, 349.
+
+    Embroidery, star alphabet, small, 350.
+
+    Embroidery, white, alphabet in, 358.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 135.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 137.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 184.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 185.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 133.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 139.
+
+  Embroidery, pattern for trimming lingeries in, 143, 144.
+
+  Embroidery pattern for what-not (full size), 196.
+
+  Embroidery, penwiper in, 186, 187.
+
+  Embroidery, rose-leaf in, 173.
+
+  Embroidery, sandwich-case in, 154.
+
+  Embroidery stars, 137, 143, 144.
+
+  Embroidery stars, 180, 181.
+
+  Embroidery, table-napkin ring in, 158.
+
+  Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 163.
+
+  Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 164.
+
+  Embroidery, travelling-bag in, 168.
+
+  Embroidery, trimming in, for bodices, 170.
+
+  Embroidery, Venetian border in, 206.
+
+  Embroidery, Venetian, lappet or sash end in, 205.
+
+  Embroidery, waste-paper basket in, 191.
+
+  Embroidery, white, toilet-cushion cover in, 171, 172, 173.
+
+  Embroidery, wing of bird, 172.
+
+  Embroidery, work-bag in, 200.
+
+  Embroidery, wreath in, for centre of pincushion or toilet-mat, 148.
+
+  English netting, 308
+
+
+  Fichu, netted, 315, 316.
+
+  Flower in guipure d'art, 544.
+
+  Frame for guipure d'art 503.
+
+  Full-sized circle for embroidered pen-wiper, 187.
+
+  Fuchsia spray in embroidery, 161.
+
+
+  Garter, crochet, 285.
+
+  Glove-box in embroidery, 174.
+
+  Glove-box in embroidery, 175.
+
+  Gauge, knitting, 287.
+
+  Guipure d'art.
+
+  Guipure d'art, banner-screen in, 573, 574.
+
+  Guipure d'art, border for couvrettes in, 561.
+
+  Guipure d'art t, borders for handkerchief, corner, 564, 565.
+
+  Guipure d'art, borders in, 552, 553, 557.
+
+  Guipure d'art, border in, 575.
+
+  Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 524, 525.
+
+  Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 542, 543.
+
+  Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 564, 565.
+
+  Guipure d'art, flower in, 544.
+
+  Guipure d'art, frame for, 503.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 521.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 526.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 528.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 539.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 548.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertion in, 558.
+
+  Gaipure d'art, insertion in, 559.
+
+  Guipure d'art, insertions, &c., in, 558 to 563.
+
+  Guipure d'art, instructions in, p. 503.
+
+  Guipure d'art jewel-case cover, 567.
+
+  Guipure d'art, jewel-case covered in, 566.
+
+  Guipure d'art, lace borders for veils in, 537.
+
+  Guipure d'art, lace border in, 522.
+
+  Guipure d'art, parasol-cover in, 568.
+
+  Guipure d'art, quarter square in, 530.
+
+  Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 529.
+
+  Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 562, 563.
+
+  Guipure d'art stitches.
+
+    Grounding, 533 to 536.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510.
+
+    Point d'esprit, 504.
+
+    Point de feston, 506.
+
+    Point de reprise, 507, 508.
+
+    Point de toile, 505.
+
+    Stars, 516 to 520.
+
+    Wheels, 511 to 515.
+
+  Guipure d'art, scent-sachet in, 569.
+
+  Guipure d'art, small squares, 527.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares for antimacassar, 550, 551.
+
+  Guipure d'art, square for d'oyley in, 523.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, for dresses, 546, 547.
+
+  Guipure d'art, square in, 531.
+
+  Guipure d'art, square in, 532.
+
+  Guipure d'art, square in, 556.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, 570, 576.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, 533 to 536.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, 538, 538a.
+
+  Guipure d'art, squares in, 554, 555.
+
+  (Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, 540.
+
+  (Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, enlarged, 541.
+
+  Guipure d'art,   work-basket   covered with, 545.
+
+  Guipure d'art, work-case in, 571, 572.
+
+
+  Handkerchief border in embroidery, 197.
+
+  Handkerchief in embroidery, 140.
+
+  Hanging letter-case embroidered, 176.
+
+  Honiton guipure lace, 424.
+
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 258.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 259.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 260.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 277.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 283.
+
+  Insertion, crochet, 284.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 131.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 142.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 145.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 146.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 155.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 165.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 188.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 189.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery, 192.
+
+  Insertion in embroidery and stitching, 132.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d art, 521.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 526.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 528.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 539.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 548.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 558.
+
+  Insertion in guipure d'art, 559.
+
+  Insertions in guipure d'art, 558 to 563.
+
+  Insertions in tatting, 2.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 7.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 11.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 14.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 24.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 31.
+
+  Insertion in tatting, 32.
+
+  Insertion in tatting and crochet, 41.
+
+  Insertion in tatting and crochet, 43.
+
+  Insertion in tatting and lace stitch, 23.
+
+  Insertion in tatting for trimming lingeries, 11.
+
+  Insertion, knitted, 340.
+
+  Insertion, wide, tatting, 10.
+
+  Insertion, wide, tatting, 14.
+
+  Insertion, wide, tatting, 43.
+
+  Insertion, worked in tatting, 10.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN BERLIN WOOL WORK, p. 559.
+
+    Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594.
+
+    Berlin stitches.
+
+    Common cross stitch, 577.
+
+    Damask stitch, 581.
+
+    Leviathan stitch, 583, 584.
+
+    Leviathan double stitch, 585.
+
+    Long cross stitch, 578, 579.
+
+    Plaited stitch, 590.
+
+    Plush stitch, 591.
+
+    Raised or velvet stitch, 589.
+
+    Rep stitch, 582.
+
+    Slanting cross stitch, 580.
+
+    Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587.
+
+    Straight Gobelin stitch, 588.
+
+    Tent stitch, 586.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN CROCHET.
+
+    Crochet hook, p. 185.
+
+    Foundation chain, double, 217.
+
+    Foundation chain, plain, 216.
+
+    Foundation chain, purl, 218.
+
+    Spots, raised, 232.
+
+    Spots, hollow, 233.
+
+    Spots, open work, 234.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY.
+
+    Bead partly covered, 103.
+
+    Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102.
+
+    Bluebell, 113.
+
+    Bluebell, inner part, 114.
+
+    Bluebell, part of, 116.
+
+    Borders, 118, 119.
+
+    Ear of corn, 112.
+
+    Flower, 115.
+
+    Flower in satin stitch, 107.
+
+    Flower appliqued on net, 117.
+
+    Heartsease, 110.
+
+    Initials, 123 to 130.
+
+    Insertions, 120 to 122.
+
+    Leaf, 94.
+
+    Leaf, half of, 99.
+
+    Leaf, centre of, 100.
+
+    Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91.
+
+    Leaf, raised, 92, 93.
+
+    Leaf, raised, 95.
+
+    Raised embroidered leaf, 98.
+
+    Raised flower, 111.
+
+    Raised leaf, 96.
+
+    Raised leaf, 97.
+
+    Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91.
+
+    Rose in satin stitch, 108.
+
+    Rose, petal for, 109.
+
+    Star, 106.
+
+    Star in point de reprise, 105.
+
+    Star in satin stitch, 104.
+
+  STITCH, EMBROIDERY.
+
+    Stitch, back, 70.
+
+    Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 85, 87.
+
+    Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85.
+
+    Stitch, double overcast, 67.
+
+    Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75.
+
+    Stitch, ladder, 80, 81.
+
+    Stitch, overcast, 68.
+
+    Stitch, point croise, 71, 72.
+
+    Stitch, point de minute, 79.
+
+    Stitch, point de plume, 78.
+
+    Stitch, satin raised, 76, 77.
+
+    Stitch, scallop, 66.
+
+    Stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89.
+
+    Stitch, slanting overcast, 69.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN GUIPURE D'ART, p. 503.
+
+  INSTRUCTIONS IN TATTING.
+    Joining the work, p. v.
+    Pin, tatting, p. ii.
+    Shuttles, tatting, pp. i, iii.
+    The way to hold the hands, p. iii.
+    The way to make a loop in tatting, p. iv.
+    The way to make a purl, p. v.
+    The way to make a stitch in tatting, p. iv.
+
+
+  JEWEL-CASE cover, guipure d'art, 567.
+    Jewel-case covered in guipure d'art, 566.
+
+
+  KEY-BAG, embroidered, 182.
+
+  Key-bag, embroidered, 183.
+
+  Knee-cap, knitted, 322.
+
+  Knife-basket, embroidered, 159.
+
+  Knife-basket, embroidered, 160.
+
+  Knitted antimacassar, 318 to 320.
+
+  Knitted baby's boot, 326.
+
+  Knitted bodice, 324, 325.
+
+  Knitted border, 321.
+
+  Knitted border for bed-quilt, 327.
+
+  Knitted braces, 338.
+
+  Knitted comforters, pattern for, 336.
+
+  Knitted counterpanes, pattern for, 313.
+
+  Knitted cover for sofa-cushion, 341, 342.
+
+  Knitted curtains, patterns for, 339.
+
+  Knitted d'oyley, 337.
+
+  Knitted insertion, 340.
+
+  Knitted knee-cap, 322.
+
+  Knitted neckerchief, 323.
+
+  Knitted pattern, 345.
+
+  Knitted pattern, with embroidery, 332.
+
+  Knitted purse, lady's, 317.
+
+  Knitted quilt, 328.
+
+  Knitted shawl, 346 to 348.
+
+  Knitted sleeping sock, 314.
+
+  Knitted sock for a child, 312.
+
+  Knitted table-cover, 333, 334.
+
+  Knitted veil, 330, 331.
+
+  Knitting cotton, table of sizes of, p. 368.
+
+  Knitting gauge, 287.
+
+  Knitting, looped, 335.
+
+  Knitting, materials required for, 287.
+
+  Knitting needles, 287.
+
+  KNITTING ON, 287.
+
+  Knitting, rosette for antimacassar in, 319.
+
+  KNITTING STITCHES.
+
+    Brioche stitch, 301.
+
+    Casting off, 295.
+
+    Casting on, 288.
+
+    Decreasing, 293.
+
+    Increasing, 292.
+
+    Knitting on, 289.
+
+    Knotted stitch, 299.
+
+    Looped knitting, 335.
+
+    Moss borders, 300.
+
+    Peacock's tail pattern, 297.
+
+    Picking up stitches, 296.
+
+    Plain knitting, 290.
+
+    Purling, 291.
+
+    Round knitting, 294.
+
+    Spiral stitch, 298.
+
+    Knitting stitch for comforters, &c., 32.
+
+
+  LACE, Bedford plaited (1851), 423.
+
+  (Lace, black), Buckingham point troll (1851), 422.
+
+  Lace border for veils in guipure d'art 537.
+
+  Lace border in guipure d'art, 522.
+
+  Lace, crochet, 251.
+
+  Lace, crochet, 261.
+
+  Lace, Dalecarlian, 419.
+
+  Lace, deep, in tatting, 27.
+
+  Lace edging in tatting, 3.
+
+  Lace edging in tatting, 4.
+
+  Lace, Honiton guipure, 424.
+
+  Lace insertion, embroidered, 207.
+
+  Lace in tatting and crochet, 40.
+
+  Lace, Mechlin (Queen Charlotte's), 4
+
+  Lace, netted, 309.
+
+  Lace, netted, open, 310.
+
+  Lace, old Mechlin, 420.
+
+  LACE POINT.
+
+    Braid, placing the, 442.
+
+    Braids, 426 to 431.
+
+    Cords, p. 453.
+
+    Edgings, 474 to 479.
+
+    General directions for working, pp. 453, 454.
+
+    Materials required, p. 451.
+
+    Modes of working dots and picots, 470, 473.
+
+    Scissors for, 425.
+
+    Threads, sizes of, p. 500.
+
+  Lace, tatted, 26.
+
+  Lace, tatted, 27.
+
+  Lady's embroidered purse, 157.
+
+  Lady's veil in net and tatting, 16, 17.
+
+  Lappet or sash-end in. Venetian embroidery, 205.
+
+  Linen collar embroidered, 193.
+
+  Linen collar embroidered, 194.
+
+  Linen tatting-bag, 46.
+
+  Linen bag for tatting cotton, 30.
+
+  Looped knitting, 335.
+
+
+  MATERIALS required fur knitting, 287.
+
+  Materials required for netting. 302.
+
+  Mechlin lace (Queen Charlotte's), 421.
+
+  Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 198.
+
+  Medallion for a purse in embroidery, 199.
+
+  Medallion for trimming lingeries in tatting, 58.
+
+  Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 210.
+
+  Medallion in point Russe embroidery, 211.
+
+  Medallion, tatting, 58.
+
+  Mignardise and tatting, 29.
+
+  MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN EMBROIDERY.
+
+    Alphabet, coral stitch embroidery, 353.
+
+    Alphabet, floral embroidery, 361.
+
+    Alphabet, florid style of embroidery, 356.
+
+    Alphabet, forget-me-nots (embroidered), 352.
+
+    Alphabet, point d'or (embroidered), 357.
+
+    Alphabet, raised satin stitch embroidery, 359.
+
+    Alphabet, satin stitch (embroidered), 351.
+
+    Alphabet, scalloped, in embroidery, 355.
+
+    Alphabet, small, in embroidery, 354.
+
+    Alphabet, star, capitals, in embroidery, 349.
+
+    Alphabet, star, small, in embroidery, 350.
+
+    Alphabet, white, embroidery, 358.
+
+    Initials in embroidery, 366 to 417.
+
+    Monograms in embroidery, 366 to 417.
+
+    Names in embroidery, 362 to 418.
+
+    Sampler in embroidery, 360.
+
+  Muslin cravat, embroidered, 153.
+
+
+  Neckerchief, knitted, 323.
+
+  Needle and mesh for netting, 302.
+
+  Needles, knitting, 287.
+
+  Netted fichu, 315, 316.
+
+  Netted lace, 309.
+
+  Netted nightcaps, 343, 344.
+
+  Netted open lace, 310.
+
+  Netted shell border, 311.
+
+  Netting, 302.
+
+  Netting, 303.
+
+  NETTING STITCHES.
+
+    Diamond, 306.
+
+    English, 308.
+
+    Bound, 305, 307.
+
+    Square, 304.
+
+  Netting, materials required for, 302.
+
+  Netting needle and mesh, 302.
+
+  Nightcaps, netted, 343, 344.
+
+
+  Old Mechlin lace, 420.
+
+  ON KNITTING, 287.
+
+
+  Parasol-Cover in guipure d'art, 568.
+
+  Patterns for arm-chair crochet borders, 255, 256.
+
+  Pattern for a couvrette in applique, 213 to 215.
+
+  Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 135.
+
+  Pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 137.
+
+  Pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 184.
+
+  Pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 185.
+
+  Patterns, embroidery, for what-not (full size), 196.
+
+  Pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 133.
+
+  Pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 139.
+
+  Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 201.
+
+  Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 203.
+
+  Pattern for embroidered letter-case, 177.
+
+  Pattern for embroidered needle-book, 166.
+  Pattern for embroidered needle-book, 167.
+
+  Pattern for knitted comforters, 336.
+
+  Pattern for knitted counterpanes, 313.
+
+  Pattern for trimming lingeries in embroidery, 143, 144.
+
+  Patterns for veil in tatting, 18, 19.
+
+  Pattern, knitted, 345.
+
+  PATTERNS, POINT LACE.
+
+    Alphabet, 502.
+
+    Alphabet, description of, 500 to 502.
+
+    Bars, d'Alencon and Sorrento, 494.
+
+    Borders, 482, 483.
+
+    Collars, 493, 496.
+
+    Cravat end, 487.
+
+    Design for point lace collar, lappets, &c., 490.
+
+    Dress trimming, 492.
+
+    Edgings, 488, 489.
+
+    Handkerchief border, 485.
+
+    Insertion (Limoges), 484.
+
+    Lappet, 490.
+
+    Lappet, 497.
+
+    Letter __A in point lace, 500, 501.
+
+    Medallion, 481.
+
+    Oval for cravats, 491.
+
+    Star, 480.
+
+    Toilet cushion centre, 486.
+
+    Wheels, close English, 495.
+
+  Penwiper in embroidery, 186, 187.
+
+  Point Lace.
+
+    Braid, placing the, 442.
+
+    Braids, 426 to 431.
+
+    Cords, p. 453.
+
+    Edgings, 474 to 479.
+
+    General directions for working, 453, 454.
+
+    Materials required, p. 451.
+
+    Modes of working dots or picots, 470, 473.
+
+    Scissors for, 425.
+
+    Threads, sizes of, p. 500.
+
+  Point Lace Bars.
+
+    D'Alencon, 463.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 467.
+
+    Point de Venise, edged, 468.
+
+    Point de Venise, dotted, 469.
+
+    Raleigh, 471, 472.
+
+    Sorrento, 461, 462.
+
+    Sorrento, dotted, 469.
+
+    Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466.
+
+  Point lace edgings and purled edgings.
+
+    Antwerp, 479.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 477.
+
+    Point do Bruxelles, 474.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, 478.
+
+    Point de Venise, 476.
+
+    Sorrento, 475.
+
+  Point lace patterns.
+
+    Alphabet, 502.
+
+    Alphabet, description of, 500, 502.
+
+    Bars, d'Alencon and Sorrento, 494.
+
+    Borders, 482, 483.
+
+    Collars, 493, 496.
+
+    Cravat end, 487.
+
+    Design for point Lice collar, lappets, &c., 490.
+
+    Dress trimming, 492.
+
+    Edgings, 488, 489.
+
+    Handkerchief border, 485.
+
+    Insertion (Limoges), 484.
+
+    Lappet, 490.
+
+    Lappet, 497.
+
+    Letter _A_ in point lace, 500, 501.
+
+    Medallion, 481.
+
+    Oval for cravats, 491.
+
+    Star, 480.
+
+    Toilet cushion centre, 486.
+
+    Wheels, close English, 495.
+
+  Point lace stitches.
+
+    Brussels lace, 433, 434.
+
+    Escalier lace, 454.
+
+    Mechlin lace, 453.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 444.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, enlarged, 445.
+
+    Point d'Anvers, 498.
+
+    Point d'Alencon, 442.
+
+    Point d'Alencon, 443.
+
+    Point Brabancon, 449.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434.
+
+    Point de Cordova, 447.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, 437.
+
+    Point d'Espagne; close, 438.
+
+    Point d' Espagne, treble, 439.
+
+    Point de fillet, 450.
+
+    Point de fillet and point reprise, 451.
+
+    Point de Grecque, 440, 499.
+
+    Point de reprise. 448.
+
+    Point de tulle, 452.
+
+    Point Turque, 446.
+
+    Point de Valenciennes, 441.
+
+    Point de Venise, 435.
+
+    Point de Venise, petit, 436.
+
+    Spanish point, 455.
+
+  Point lace wheel and rosettes.
+
+    English, plain, 458.
+
+    English, raised, 459.
+
+    Mechlin, 453.
+
+    Rosette for centres, 460.
+
+    Sorrento, 456, 457.
+
+    Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457.
+
+  Point Russe stitch for embroidered slipper, 209.
+
+  Purse, crochet sovereign, 246.
+
+  Purse in crochet over rings, 248.
+
+  Parse in tatting and beads, 42.
+
+  Purse, knitted, 317.
+
+
+  Quarter-square in guipure d'art, 530.
+
+  Quilt, knitted, 328.
+
+
+  Rose-leaf in embroidery, 173.
+
+  Rosettes, crochet, 280, 281.
+
+  Rosettes, embroidery and tatting, 48, 61, 63.
+
+  Rosette for antimacassar in knitting, 319.
+
+  Rosettes in guipure d'art, 529, 562, 563.
+
+  Rosette in tatting, 8.
+
+  Rosette in tatting, 34.
+
+  Rosette in tatting, 35.
+
+  Rosette in tatting, 45.
+
+  Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 48.
+
+  Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 61.
+
+  Rosette in tatting and embroidery, 63.
+
+  Round netting, 305, 307.
+
+
+  SANDWICH-CASE in embroidery, 154.
+
+  Scent-sachet in guipure d'art, 569.
+
+  Shawl, knitted, 346 to 348.
+
+  Shell border, netted, 311.
+
+  Sleeping sock, knitted, 314.
+
+  Slipper, embroidered on Java canvas, 208.
+
+  Sock, knitted, for a child, 312.
+
+  Sofa-cushion, knitted cover for, 341, 342.
+
+  Squares for antimacassar in guipure d'art, 550, 551.
+
+  Square for d'oyley in guipure d art, 523.
+
+  Square, guipure d'art, 531.
+
+  Square, guipure d'art, 532.
+
+  Square, guipure d'art, 556.
+
+  Squares, guipure d'art, 570, 576.
+
+  Squares in guipure d'art, 533 to 536.
+
+  Squares in guipure d'art, 538, 538a.
+
+  Squares in guipure d'art, 554, 555.
+
+  Squares in guipure d'art for dresses, 546, 547.
+
+  Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), 540.
+
+  Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), enlarged, 541.
+
+  Square in tatting for pincushion or couvrette, 33.
+
+  Square netting, 304.
+
+  Squares, small, in guipure d'art, 527.
+
+  Star, crochet, 244.
+
+  Stars in crochet, 247.
+
+  Stars in embroidery, 137, 143, 144.
+
+  Stars in embroidery, 180, 181.
+
+  Star in tatting, 9.
+
+  STITCHES, CROCHET.
+
+    Cross stitch, 224.
+
+    Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231.
+
+    Double long treble stitch, 228.
+
+    Double stitch, 220, 221.
+
+    Long double stitch, 225.
+
+    Long treble stitch, 227.
+
+    Purl stitch, 236.
+
+    Purl stitch, 237.
+
+    Purl stitch, 238.
+
+    Raised treble stitch, 235.
+
+    Raised ribbed stitch, 222.
+
+    Raised slanting stitch, 223.
+
+    Slip stitch, 219.
+
+    Treble stitch, 226.
+
+  STITCHES, GUIPURE D'ART.
+
+    Grounding, 533 to 536.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510.
+
+    Point d'esprit, 504.
+
+    Point de feston, 506.
+
+    Point de reprise, 507, 508.
+
+    Point de toile, 505.
+
+    Stars, 516 to 520.
+
+    Wheels, 511 to 515.
+
+  STITCHES, KNITTING.
+
+    Brioche stitch, 301.
+
+    Casting off, 295.
+
+    Casting on, 288.
+
+    Decreasing, 293.
+
+    Increasing, 292.
+
+    Knitting on, 289.
+
+    Knotted stitch, 299.
+
+    Looped knitting, 335.
+
+    Moss borders, 300.
+
+    Peacock-tail pattern, 297.
+
+    Picking up stitches, 296.
+
+    Plain, 290.
+
+    Purling, 291.
+
+    Round knitting, 294.
+
+    Spiral stitch, 298.
+
+  STITCHES, NETTING.
+
+    Diamond, 306.
+
+    English, 308.
+
+    Round, 305, 307.
+
+    Square, 304.
+
+  STITCHES, POINT LACE.
+
+    Brussels lace, 433, 434.
+
+    Escalier lace, 454.
+
+    Mechlin lace, 453.
+
+    Point d'Alencon, 442.
+
+    Point d'Alencon, 443.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, 444.
+
+    Point d'Angleterre, enlarged,
+
+    Point d'Anvers, 498.
+
+    Point Brabancon, 449.
+
+    Point de Bruxelles, 433, 434.
+
+    Point de Cordova, 447.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, 437.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, close, 438.
+
+    Point d'Espagne, treble, 439.
+
+    Point de fillet, 450.
+
+    Point de fillet and point reprise, 451.
+
+    Point de Grecque, 440, 499.
+
+    Point de reprise, 448.
+
+    Point de tulle, 452.
+
+    Point Turque, 446.
+
+    Point de Valenciennes, 441,
+
+    Point de Venise, 435.
+
+    Point de Venise, petit, 436.
+
+    Spanish point, 455.
+
+
+  TABLE-COVER, knitted, 333, 334.
+
+  Table-napkin ring in embroidery, 153.
+
+  Table of sizes of knitting cotton, p. 363.
+
+  Tatting and beads, purse in, 42.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, border in, 22.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, border in, 52.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 41.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, insertion in, 43.
+
+  Tatting and crochet, lace in, 40.
+
+  Tatting and darned netting, collar in, 28.
+
+  Tatting and darned netting, cravat-end in, 64.
+
+  Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 48.
+
+  Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 61.
+
+  Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 63.
+
+  Tatting and lace stitch, insertion in, 23.
+
+  Tatting and mignardise, 29.
+
+  Tatting and muslin, cravat in, 50.
+
+  Tatting and net, lady's veil in, 16, 17.
+
+  Tatting, antimacassar in, 65.
+
+  Tatting-bag, linen, 46.
+
+  Tatting, border, 47.
+
+  Tatting, border for cap in. 6.
+
+  Tatting, border in crochet and, 15.
+
+  Tatting, border in crochet and, 22.
+
+  Tatting, border in, with crochet edging, 5, 6.
+
+  Tatting, border in lace stitch and, 44.
+
+  Tatting, border, with beads, 13.
+
+  Tatting, cap-crown in, 37.
+
+  Tatting, cap in, 38, 39.
+
+  Tatting, circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 21.
+
+  Tatting, circle in, 12.
+
+  Tatting, circle in, 21.
+
+  Tatting, circle in, 57.
+
+  Tatting, collar in, 55.
+
+  Tatting, collar in, 56.
+
+  Tatting, collar, pine pattern in, 1.
+
+  Tatting-cotton, p. 82.
+
+  Tatting-cotton, linen bag for, 30.
+
+  Tatting, couvrette, centre of a, 25.
+
+  Tatting, cravat-end in, 60.
+
+  Tatting, cravat-end in, 62.
+
+  Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51.
+
+  Tatting, cravat in, 50.
+
+  Tatting, deep border in crochet and, 52.
+
+  Tatting, deep lace in, 27.
+
+  Tatting, diamond in, 20.
+
+  Tatting, diamond in. 36.
+
+  Tatting, diamond in, 53.
+
+  Tatting, diamond in, 59.
+
+  Tatting, diamond, for collars, &c., 20.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 27.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 11.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 14.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 24.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 31.
+
+  Tatting, insertion, 32.
+
+  Tatting, insertion in, for trimming lingeries, 11.
+
+  Tatting, insertion worked in, 10.
+
+  TATTING INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+    Joining the work, p. v.
+
+    Pin, tatting, p. ii.
+
+    Shuttles, tatting, pp. i, iii.
+
+    The way to hold the hands, p. iii.
+
+    The way to make aloop in tatting, p. iv.
+
+    The way to make a purl, p. v.
+
+    The way to make a stitch in tatting, p. iv.
+
+  Tatting, lace, 26.
+
+  Tatting, lace, 27.
+
+  Tatting, lace edging in, 3.
+
+  Tatting, lace edging in, 4.
+
+  Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 49.
+
+  Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 54.
+
+  Tatting, medallion for trimming lingeries in, 58.
+
+  Tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51.
+
+  Tatting, patterns for veils in, 18, 19.
+
+  Tatting, rosette in, 8.
+
+  Tatting, rosette in, 34.
+
+  Tatting, rosette in, 35.
+
+  Tatting, rosette in, 45.
+
+  Tatting, square in, for pincushion or couvrette, 33.
+
+  Tatting, star in, 9.
+
+  Tatting, trimming for collar in, 49.
+
+  Tatting, trimming for collar in, 54.
+
+  Tatting, wide insertion in, 10.
+
+  Tatting, wide insertion in, 14.
+
+  Tatting, wide insertion in, 43.
+
+  Tatting, with beads, border in, 13,
+
+  Tobacco-pouch in crochet work, 278, 279.
+
+  Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 163.
+
+  Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 164.
+
+  Toilet-cushion cover in white embroidery, 171, 172, 173.
+
+  Travelling-bag in embroidery, 168.
+
+  Trimming, crochet, with embroidered flowers
+    worked in applique and velvet ribbon, 282.
+
+  Tramming for a lady's chemise, in crochet, 286.
+
+  Trimming in embroidery for bodices, 170.
+
+
+  VEIL, knitted, 330, 331.
+
+  Veil, lady's, in net and tatting, 16, 17.
+
+  Veils, patterns for, in tatting, 19.
+
+  Venetian border in embroidery, 206.
+
+
+  WASTE-PAPER basket in embroidery, 191.
+
+  What-not, embroidered in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196.
+
+  WHEELS AND ROSETTES, POINT LACE.
+
+    English plain, 458.
+
+    English raised, 459.
+
+    Mechlin, 453.
+
+    Rosette for centres, 460.
+
+    Sorrento, 456, 457.
+
+    Wheels and rosettes, 456, 457.
+
+  Wing of bird in embroidery, 172.
+
+  Work-bag in embroidery, 200.
+
+  Work-basket covered with guipure d'art, 545.
+
+  Work-basket in straw and silk crochet* work, 272, 273.
+
+  Work-case in guipure d'art, 571, 572.
+
+  Wreath in embroidery for centre of pin-cushion or toilet-mat, 148.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton
+
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