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+NEEDLEWORK</title>
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Beeton's Book of Needlework
+
+Author: Isabella Beeton
+
+Release Date: February 22, 2005 [EBook #15147]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEETON'S BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julie Barkley and the PG Online Distributed Proofreading
+Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<div style=
+" background-color: white; color: black; border-style: ridge;">
+<center>
+<h1>BEETON'S BOOK</h1>
+
+<h1>OF</h1>
+
+<h1>NEEDLEWORK.</h1>
+</center>
+</div>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h2>CONSISTING<br>
+<br>
+ OF<br>
+<br>
+ DESCRIPTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS,<br>
+<br>
+ ILLUSTRATED BY<br>
+<br>
+ SIX HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS,<br>
+<br>
+ OF TATTING PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ CROCHET PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ KNITTING PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ NETTING PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ EMBROIDERY PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ POINT LACE PATTERNS.<br>
+<br>
+ GUIPURE D'ART.<br>
+<br>
+ BERLIN WORK.<br>
+<br>
+ MONOGRAMS.<br>
+<br>
+ INITIALS AND NAMES.<br>
+<br>
+ PILLOW LACE, AND LACE STITCHES.</h2>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h4><em>Every Pattern and Stitch Described and Engraved with the
+utmost<br>
+Accuracy and the Exact Quantity of Material requisite for<br>
+each Pattern stated.</em></h4>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<h4>CHANCELLOR PRESS</h4>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<center>
+<h5><em>Beeton's Book of Needlework</em> was originally
+published<br>
+ in Great Britain in 1870 by Ward, Lock and Tyler.</h5>
+</center>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h5>This facsimile edition published in Great<br>
+Britain in 1986 by<br>
+Chancellor Press<br>
+59 Grosvenor Street London W 1</h5>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<h5>Printed in Czechoslovakia 50617</h5>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+ <a name="PREFACE"></a>
+<h3>SAMUEL BUTLER'S PREFACE</h3>
+
+<p>The Art of Needlework dates from the earliest record of the
+world's history, and has, also, from time immemorial been the
+support, comfort, or employment of women of every rank and age. Day
+by day, it increases its votaries, who enlarge and develop its
+various branches, so that any addition and assistance in teaching
+or learning Needlework will be welcomed by the Daughters of
+England, "wise of heart," who work diligently with their hands.</p>
+
+<p>The recent introduction of Point Lace has brought a finer, and,
+apparently, more difficult class of fancy work into general favour.
+Ladies may now, however, confidently commence, with our patterns
+before them, to reproduce Antique laces; for care and patience,
+with a knowledge of Point Lace stitches, are alone required to
+perfect the beautiful work, which, as shown in existing specimens
+of exquisite Old Lace, constitute the chief glory of women's
+refined industry in past centuries.</p>
+
+<p><b>INSTRUCTIONS</b> in <b>TATTING</b>, in <b>EMBROIDERY</b>, in
+<b>CROCHET</b>, in <b>KNITTING</b> and <b>NETTING</b>, in <b>BERLIN
+WOOL WORK</b>, in <b>POINT LACE</b>, and <b>GUIPURE D'ART</b> are
+prefixed to the pages devoted to these separate branches of
+needlework. The whole work is interspersed with coloured and other
+Patterns in Point Lace, Guipure d'Art, Tatting, Embroidery, and
+Designs for Monograms and Initials for marking handkerchiefs and
+table-linen. The quantity of materials required for each class of
+work is also given with every pattern.</p>
+
+<p>The idea of combining a series of minute and exact instructions
+in fancy needlework with useful patterns was conceived some years
+ago by one whose life was devoted to the inculcation of the
+practical duties of woman's life, and to assisting her sex in their
+daily work of <b>HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT</b> and
+<b>REFINEMENT</b>.</p>
+
+<p>Her great wish was that her <b>BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK</b> should be
+as valuable in its way to her Countrywomen as her work upon
+Household Management was useful in showing the best mode of
+providing for the diurnal wants of families. Other hands have
+brought to a conclusion her original plans. The best attainable
+workers have contributed to this volume. Only those who knew the
+extent of the late Mrs. Beeton's design, will miss, in the pages
+now before them, "the touch of a vanished hand."</p>
+
+<p>S.O.B.</p>
+
+<p><em>Paternoster Row,</em> 1870.</p>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<b>CONTENTS.</b>
+
+
+
+<table summary="toc">
+
+
+<tr>
+<td>TATTING INSTRUCTIONS.</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href=
+"#page_i">i--vi</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>TATTING PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_1">1</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+
+<tr>
+<td>EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_83">83</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>EMBROIDERY PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_105">105</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_185">185</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>CROCHET PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_199">199</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_289">289</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>NETTING INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_301">301</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_309">309</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>ALPHABETS FOR MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_371">371</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_401">401</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>POINT LACE WORK</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_445">445</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>POINT LACE INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_451">451</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>POINT LACE PATTERNS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_482">482</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS IN GUIPURE D'ART</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_503">503</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS</td>
+<td></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_559">559</a></td>
+<td></td>
+</tr>
+
+</table>
+<br>
+ <br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<h2>TATTING</h2>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_i" id="page_i">[i]</a></span>
+<a name="TATTING_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+<h3>TATTING INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<center><a name="image_a"><img alt="Tatting Shuttle." src=
+"images/imagea.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The needlework called Tatting in England,
+<em>Frivolit&eacute;</em> in French, and <em>Frivolit&auml;ten</em>
+in German, is a work which seems, from all accounts, to have been
+in favour several generations ago. Modern ingenuity has discovered
+some ways of improving on the original plan of tatting, which was,
+indeed, rather a primitive sort of business as first practised. To
+Mrs. Mee, one of our most accomplished <em>artistes</em> in all
+matters connected with the work-table, belongs, we believe, the
+introduction of the plan of working from the reel instead of the
+shuttle. By this alteration the advantage of the shuttle being
+constantly kept filled with cotton was gained, and the necessity
+also obviated for frequently <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_ii" id="page_ii">[ii]</a></span> joining the thread; and to
+Mdlle. Riego, equally distinguished in all details appertaining to
+the employment of the needle, ladies are indebted for an
+arrangement by which the same thread used in the making of the
+pattern is used for fastening the work. The old plan only provided
+for the working of the different portions which constituted the
+pattern, and then these portions had to be sewn together with a
+needle and thread. The ingenious workers on the Continent have also
+given much attention of late to the art of tatting, and our
+instructions now printed comprise what we consider the best mode of
+learning and doing this exceedingly interesting and fashionable
+work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_b"><img alt="Tatting pin" src=
+"images/imageb.jpg" width="326" height="199"></a></center>
+
+<p>Tatting differs entirely from crochet, and is composed of
+stitches forming <em>knots</em>. It is intended as an imitation of
+point lace, and is especially used for trimming under-linen, on
+account of its strength.</p>
+
+<p>To make the stitches or knots a small instrument is used, called
+a <em>shuttle</em>. This shuttle consists of two oval pieces, flat
+on one side and convex on the other, and is made of wood or
+ivory.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_iii" id=
+"page_iii">[iii]</a></span>
+
+<p>The two oval pieces are joined together by a strong cross-piece.
+The illustration shows the construction of the shuttle. These
+shuttles are made in ivory, pearl, tortoiseshell inlaid with pearl,
+and silver; they are also manufactured in coloured bone, black,
+red, and white. The best to work with are the pearl for a white
+shuttle, and the inlaid tortoiseshell for a black shuttle; the
+prices vary from sixpence to one shilling and two-and-sixpence
+each. In selecting a shuttle be careful to see that the ends close,
+as if dropped it soon becomes unthreaded, which is very
+inconvenient. The cotton intended for the work is wound round this
+shuttle, and the thickness of the cotton varies according to the
+style of work. It is better to use the proper tatting cotton,
+because it is stronger than the ordinary kinds; this is
+manufactured by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. for the purpose. Their
+Boar's Head Cotton is also frequently used, and answers very
+well.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>Shuttles.</em></p>
+
+<p>These are made in 3 sizes:--Finest, No. 1; No. 2, useful medium
+size; No. 3, the largest.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>The Way to Hold the Hands.</em></p>
+
+<p>Take the shuttle in the right hand, between the thumb and second
+finger, and allow the forefinger to remain at liberty, and rest the
+under part of the shuttle <em>between</em> the second and third and
+<em>on</em> the middle finger. Place the thread round the three
+middle fingers of the left hand, so as to form a loop, keeping the
+second and third fingers a little apart, and bring the cotton again
+between the thumb and forefinger, letting the end fall within the
+palm of the hand, while the end of cotton which holds on to the
+shuttle passes over the thumb-nail.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>To Make a Stitch.</em></p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_iv" id=
+"page_iv">[iv]</a></span>
+
+<p>Keep the hands in the position above described; pass the shuttle
+at the back, through the loop--that is, between the second and
+third fingers. Take the end of the shuttle which comes out from the
+loop between the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and strain
+the cotton very tightly towards the right. When the cotton is drawn
+through the loop, this cotton must not be impeded by the fourth
+finger; it should, on the contrary, slide over it, and be drawn
+tight. It should divide the loop into two parts. After this
+withdraw the second left-hand finger, which is <em>above</em> the
+cotton, and pass it again under that cotton, so as to draw up the
+loop. A <em>half-stitch</em> is thus formed, and must be tightened
+by being drawn closely to the forefinger and thumb of the left
+hand. For the remaining half of the stitch keep the hands in the
+same position, but, instead of letting the cotton fall over the
+thumb, pass this cotton over the back of the hand; then let the
+shuttle fall between the second and third fingers of the left hand,
+in front, and take it out again at the back, strain the cotton very
+tightly, withdraw the second finger from the loop, letting the
+cotton which is behind the hand sweep over the fingers. When this
+is done, guide with the unoccupied fingers of the left hand this
+second half-stitch up to the other, thus completing <em>one
+stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>The Way to Make a Loop in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>When a certain number of stitches are made, very tightly draw in
+the loop by straining the cotton until the first stitch touches the
+last, and thus a loop is formed. During this process the stitches
+should be held tightly between the forefinger and thumb.</p>
+
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_v" id="page_v">[v]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>The Way to Make a Purl.</em></p>
+
+<p>A <em>purl</em> is a small loop of cotton often used as an
+edging in tatting, as, for instance, round the outer edge of the
+ovals in tatted insertion No. 2. The following is the easiest
+method of making a purl:--The stitches are not made quite closely
+together at the place where a purl is to be made; about one-sixth
+of an inch is left between each. This space is left free until the
+loop is made by uniting the stitches; then the small piece of
+cotton in the space bulges out between the stitches, and forms the
+purl. If several are required a small space is left between every
+two or three stitches, according to the desired number. Care must
+be taken in that case that the small pieces of cotton left be all
+of the same length, so that the purl may be perfectly even. The
+purl can also be made thus: At the same time with the end of thread
+take the tatting-pin or a very large darning needle or knitting
+needle in the left hand, so that the point may come out farther
+than the row of stitches; if then you wish to make a purl, throw
+the cotton on the pin before making the stitch; then fasten this
+stitch, and push it at once close to the preceding; the pin with
+the cotton should come above the stitches. Do not take out the pin
+before all the purl and all the stitches are completed and joined
+together.</p>
+
+<br>
+<p><em>Joining the Work.</em></p>
+
+<p>Place the tatting-pin in the loop that is to be joined, and with
+the hook draw the thread of the loop--that is, round the hand
+through it--pass the shuttle through this loop, and draw it up
+tightly close to the stitches.</p>
+
+<p>A "straight" or double thread is used to join various parts of
+the work, and forms very beautiful patterns. Without the straight
+thread we <span class="newpage"><a name="page_vi" id=
+"page_vi">[vi]</a></span> should be unable to imitate point lace
+patterns, or, indeed, to execute any designs but those composed of
+circles, ovals, &amp;c. To use this straight thread 2 shuttles are
+required; they should be of different colours. Sometimes one end of
+thread is left attached to the reel instead of using the second
+shuttle. In commencing a loop the straight thread is held between
+the second and third fingers of the left hand, about 2 or 3 inches
+from the work; the other shuttle is held as usual in the right
+hand, and the stitches and purls worked with it upon the foundation
+of the straight thread of the second shuttle.</p>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">[1]</a></span>
+<a name="TATTING_PATTERNS."></a>
+<h3>TATTING PATTERNS.</h3>
+
+<p>1.--<em>Pine Pattern Collar in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_1"><img alt="Pine Pattern Collar" src=
+"images/image001.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+80, or tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3; a small
+shuttle.</p>
+
+<p>This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton as
+follows:--<em>1st circle:</em> 2 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double,
+draw up the cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd circle:</em> 3 double, join it to the last purl of the
+1st circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton
+up.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd circle:</em> 2 double, join it to the last purl of the
+2nd circle, 1 double, join it to the 7th purl of the 2nd circle, 1
+double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton up.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th circle:</em> 2 double, join it to the last purl of 3rd
+circle, 3 double, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_2" id=
+"page_2">[2]</a></span> 1 purl, 1 double 7 times, 1 double, draw
+the cotton up.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th circle:</em> 2 double, join it to the last purl of 4th
+circle, 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 3 times, draw up the cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th circle:</em> 2 double, join it to the last purl of the
+5th circle, 1 double, join it to the 5th purl of the preceding
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 1 double, join it to the first
+purl of the 1st circle, 2 double, draw up the cotton. This
+completes the star pattern in centre of pine.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st circle of pine:</em> 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 8 times,
+2 double, draw up the cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd circle:</em> 3 double, join to the last purl of 1st
+circle, 1 double, join it to the 7th purl of 1st circle, 1 double,
+1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the 3rd
+purl of centre star.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd circle:</em> 3 double, join to the last purl of 2nd
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and
+join it on to the centre purl of 2nd circle in star.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th circle:</em> 2 double, join to the last purl of 3rd
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 5 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double, draw
+up the cotton and join it to the 5th purl of 2nd centre circle in
+star.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th circle:</em> 2 double, join the cotton to the last purl
+of 4th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the
+cotton, repeat the 5th circle twice more, then join the cotton to
+the centre purl of 4th circle in star.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th circle:</em> 2 double, join to the last purl of 7th
+circle, 1 purl, 1 double 5 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and
+join it to the centre purl of 5th circle in star.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th circle:</em> 2 double, join to the last purl of 8th
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton.
+Repeat the 9th circle 3 times.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th circle:</em> 3 double, join the cotton to the last purl
+of the 12th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 4 double, draw up the
+cotton, turn the work downwards, and work the</p>
+
+<p><em>14th circle:</em> 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, join it to the
+1st purl of the 1st circle of pine, 1 double, join it to the 2nd
+purl of first pine circle,1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw
+up the cotton.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">[3]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>15th circle:</em> 3 double, join to the last purl of the
+13th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the
+cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th circle:</em>3 double, join to the last purl of the 15th
+circle, 1 double, 1 purl 4 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, draw
+up the cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>17th circle:</em> 1 double, join to the last purl of the
+16th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the
+cotton.</p>
+
+<p><em>18th circle:</em> 1 double, join to the last purl of the
+17th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 1 double, draw up the
+cotton, and repeat from commencement until the collar is the
+required size. The upper part of the pines is filled in with lace
+stitches, as clearly shown in our illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>2.--<em>Tatted Insertion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30,
+or Boar's Head crochet cotton No. 12; tatting pin No. 2; large
+shuttle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_2"><img alt="Tatted Insertion" src=
+"images/image002.jpg" width="376" height="153"></a></center>
+
+<p>This insertion should be worked with coarse cotton. 5 double *,
+1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 4 times, 1 purl, 5 double, draw up
+the cotton, turn the pattern downward, and work another circle the
+same as that above described, leaving one-sixth of an inch of
+cotton between each circle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>3.--<em>Lace Edging in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10,
+or tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For
+a finer edging, No. 18.</p>
+
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from
+the reel, as a double thread is used, and commence by working 10
+double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double; draw up.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">[4]</a></span>
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> Putting the thread attached to the reel
+round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_3"><img alt="Lace Edging " src=
+"images/image003.jpg" width="482" height="128"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> 10 double, join to purl in 1st oval, 10
+double; draw up.</p>
+
+<p>The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care
+that the next oval be close to the last.</p>
+
+<p>Crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 7 chain, 1
+double into the purl in double thread. Repeat.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>4.--<em>Lace Edging in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10,
+or tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle. For
+a finer edging, No. 18.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_4"><img alt="Lace Edging " src=
+"images/image004.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from
+the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working
+10 double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double stitches, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> Close to last oval, work 10 double, 1 purl,
+10 double; draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> Putting the thread attached to the reel
+round the left <span class="newpage"><a name="page_5" id=
+"page_5">[5]</a></span> hand, work 12 double, 1 purl, 4 double;
+then join the shuttle-thread to the purl in 2nd oval, by drawing it
+through with a pin. Then do another similar chain of stitches with
+the double thread, viz., 4 double, 1 purl, 12 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd oval:</em> 10 double, join to the purl in 2nd oval--the
+same as that to which the shuttle-thread has been fastened--10
+double; draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th oval:</em> Close to last oval, work 10 double, join to
+purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p>The pattern is now complete. Repeat from beginning, taking care
+that the next oval be close to the last. Crochet a heading with the
+same cotton, working 4 chain, 1 double into the purl of double
+thread, 6 chain, 1 double into the next purl. Repeat.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>5.--<em>Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60,
+or crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2; a bone shuttle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_5"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting with Crochet Edging." src="images/image005.jpg"
+width="346" height="157"></a></center>
+
+<p>Work * 4 double stitches (that is, 4 times following 1 purled
+stitch and 1 plain), 1 purl, four times following 3 double
+stitches, 1 purl, 4 double stitches, draw up the cotton so as to
+form an oval, and for the smaller oval, work 9 double stitches, but
+leave, before beginning the first double stitch, the space of
+one-sixth of an inch between this oval and the preceding; repeat
+from *, leaving the same space between each oval; join together the
+larger ovals by the purl.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">[6]</a></span>
+
+<p>For the crochet edging, work the 1st row in the following
+manner:--</p>
+
+<p>1 double (followed by 6 chain) in each of the smaller ovals. The
+2nd and 3rd rows are composed of short treble stitches, placed one
+above the other, and divided by one chain. While working the short
+treble stitches of the 3rd row form the small purl thus:--</p>
+
+<p>* 1 short treble in the first short treble of preceding row, let
+the loop slip off from the crochet needle, insert the needle in the
+under stitch, from which comes the loop now made into a purl, work
+1 double in the first short treble of preceding row, 1 chain, under
+which miss 1 stitch, and repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>6.--<em>Border in Tatting with Crochet.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20, or tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2. For a coarser size
+use Boar's Head cotton No. 4, or tatting cotton No. 20.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_6"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting with Crochet." src="images/image006.jpg" width=
+"304" height="142"></a></center>
+
+<p>4 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 times following, 3 double stitches,
+1 purl, 4 double stitches, draw up the oval, but not quite tight,
+leave a space about one-sixth of an inch, leave a similar space
+between this oval and the next, work 3 double stitches, fasten them
+to the nearest purl of preceding oval, then work twice following 4
+double stitches, 1 purl, then 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 3 double
+stitches, and draw up the oval.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>7.--<em>Tatted Insertion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head crochet
+cotton No. 18; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This strip of insertion is worked with crochet cotton, and <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">[7]</a></span>
+consists of a row of circles, two of which are always joined
+together, and edged on either side with chain stitches. Work first
+* 2 double, 4 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, 1 long purl about
+one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double divided by 1 purl, 1 long
+purl, 4 times alternately 1 double, 1 purl, then 2 double; join the
+stitches into a circle; work close to this a second circle, and
+knot the end of the cotton together with the cotton with which the
+first circle has been begun; repeat from *, but henceforward in the
+first of the two circles fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of
+the preceding circle, instead of working the middle purl. When the
+strip of insertion is sufficiently long, edge it on either side
+with a row of chain stitches, by working 1 double in 1 long purl
+and 5 chain between.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_7"><img alt="Tatted Insertion." src=
+"images/image007.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>8.--<em>Rosette in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This rosette is worked with two cottons, viz., 1 plain, 1 purl,
+1 plain, 5 double, 1 purl, 10 double, 1 purl, 1 plain; turn the
+work downwards, 10 double, fastened on the last purl turned
+downwards; this forms one loop turned upwards; turn work downwards,
+10 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on first purl turned
+downwards; turn figure thus formed downwards; 4 double, 1 single,
+repeat 4 times more from *, joining the <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_8" id="page_8">[8]</a></span> figures by means of the
+purl stitch; the ends of the cotton are knotted together.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_8"><img alt="Rosette in Tatting" src=
+"images/image008.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>9.--<em>Star in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_9"><img alt="Star in Tatting." src=
+"images/image009.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Fill the shuttle, and commencing a loop, work 1 double, then 1
+purl and 1 double 12 times, draw into a round; join the cotton to
+the 1st purl loop. 1st oval.--Commence a loop close to the joining,
+work 7 double, join to 1st purl of round, work 7 double and draw
+close; reverse the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_9" id=
+"page_9">[9]</a></span> work. Join the thread from reel, and
+holding it out for a straight thread, commence the scallop:--</p>
+
+<p>5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, reverse the work. The 2nd oval same
+as first. Repeat oval and scallop alternately, until the star is
+completed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>10.--<em>Insertion worked in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_10"><img alt="Insertion worked in Tatting."
+src="images/image010.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This strip of insertion is worked with two cottons. Work with
+the cotton in the left hand over that in the right hand. Both ends
+of cotton are fastened together at the beginning by a knot. First
+work one half of the insertion the long way in the following
+manner:--1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain (the purl must be very short);
+turn the purl downwards, 6 double, 1 purl, * 6 double, 1 purl, 1
+plain, which must all be turned upwards; then turn the work so that
+the upper edge is turned downwards; work 6 double, fastened on to
+the last purl turned downwards (the fastening of the stitches is
+made with the thread in the right hand); a loop turned upwards is
+thus formed; turn the work downwards, draw the cotton in right hand
+underneath that in left hand, and work 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double,
+all turned upwards; fasten these stitches on 1st purl turned <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">[10]</a></span>
+downwards. In this pattern 1st of border pattern is thus completed;
+turn it downwards, 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, 1 purl, 1 plain,
+turn work downwards, 6 double, fastened on last purl of last
+pattern, turned up. Repeat from *. When the insertion is of
+sufficient length, work the other half in same manner, and fasten
+it on the 1st half by means of purl stitches between the 8 double
+stitches twice repeated.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>11.--<em>Tatted Insertion for Trimming Lingeries</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40,
+or crochet cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_11"><img alt="Pine Pattern Collar" src=
+"images/image011.jpg" width="416" height="179"></a></center>
+
+<p>This insertion consists of 2 rows of three-branched patterns
+which lie opposite each other, and are joined by slanting rows of
+knots. A coloured silk ribbon is drawn through these rows which
+join the patterns. Each of the 3 branches of 1 pattern consists of
+9 double, 1 purl, 9 double, and must be worked close to another.
+When the 3rd branch is completed, fasten another piece of cotton on
+to the middle branch. Work 12 double over this 2nd piece of cotton,
+and then work without the 2nd piece of cotton a 2nd three-branched
+pattern like the 1st.* Fasten the 2nd piece of cotton on to the
+middle branch of the just-finished pattern, work 12 double over it,
+then again a three-branched pattern; in this pattern as well as in
+the following ones, instead of working the <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_11" id="page_11">[11]</a></span> purl of the 1st branch,
+fasten it on to the purl of the 3rd branch of the preceding
+three-branched pattern of the <em>same</em> row, as can be seen in
+illustration. Repeat till the strip of insertion is sufficiently
+long.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>12.--<em>Circle in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_12"><img alt="Circle in Tatting." src=
+"images/image012.jpg" width="262" height="256"></a></center>
+
+<p>Work first 8 ovals, each composed of 5 double stitches, 3 purl
+divided one from the other by 4 double stitches, 5 double stitches;
+these ovals are joined together by the purl at the sides, then the
+circle is tightened as much as possible, and the cotton with which
+you are working is twisted round the ends of cotton that have been
+cut: the cotton is then fastened off nearly underneath.</p>
+
+<p>Begin a fresh small oval, composed of 12 double stitches, which
+should be fastened to the preceding oval after 3 double stitches
+(to the purl in the centre of the first oval), then fasten it again
+to the purl which joins together the first and the second oval;
+leave a space of about one-fourth of an inch, and work an oval
+composed of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, followed each by 2 double
+stitches, 4 double stitches. A very little farther <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">[12]</a></span> off make a
+very small oval, composed of 8 double stitches, which after the
+four first double stitches is joined to the centre purl of the
+second oval, leaving the same space between as before, make another
+oval of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, each followed by 2 double
+stitches, 4 double stitches; but the first purl is <em>missed</em>,
+because at this place the oval is joined to the fifth purl of the
+corresponding oval; once more leave a space of one-fourth of an
+inch, and repeat. At the end of the round the two ends of cotton
+are tied tightly together.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>13.--<em>Tatted Border with Beads</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Black purse silk, or, for white trimming, Messrs.
+Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 2; tatting-pin No. 3; 3
+hanks of beads No. 4 to the yard of border.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_13"><img alt="Tatted Border with Beads."
+src="images/image013.jpg" width="547" height="271"></a></center>
+
+<p>This border, edged with beads No. 4, is worked in middling-size
+purse silk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk.
+Before beginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take
+the place of purl stitches, and which are slipped in between two
+double stitches. When the row of stitches is of the length
+required, form the trefoil leaves, and sew a few beads over the
+places where they are joined. These trefoil leaves are made
+separately, and then sewn together.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_13" id=
+"page_13">[13]</a></span>
+
+<p>14.--<em>Insertion in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
+tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18
+or 20.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_14"><img alt="Insertion in Tatting." src=
+"images/image014.jpg" width="380" height="192"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from
+the reel, as a double thread is used, and commence by working 10
+double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double, draw up. Double thread: Putting
+the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 8 double,
+1 purl, 8 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10
+double, draw up. Repeat till the length required is worked, then
+cut off.</p>
+
+<p>For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the
+insertion, the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence
+by working--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> 10 double, join to the purl which connects
+the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double,
+draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> 10 double, join to the same purl as
+last--namely, the one connecting the first and second ovals of the
+piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two
+next ovals to the purl which <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_14" id="page_14">[14]</a></span> connects the two next in the
+piece already worked, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the
+purl of double thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only,
+this makes a pretty wide edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>15.--<em>Border in Tatting and Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40,
+and crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_15"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting and Crochet." src="images/image015.jpg" width=
+"316" height="202"></a></center>
+
+<p>This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops
+and treble stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as
+follows: Make a circle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8
+double. This circle is repeated at a distance of about
+three-fourths of an inch, only instead of the 1st purl each
+following circle must be fastened on to the last purl of the
+preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which must be
+finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double
+stitches over the thread which joins the circles. The number of
+stitches depends on the length and size of the cotton; work double
+stitches round the circles at the place where both ends meet. The
+outer row consists of treble stitches, which are worked with 1
+chain stitch between, missing 1 stitch under each chain. The
+scallops consist of the two following <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_15" id="page_15">[15]</a></span> rows:--1 double, with
+which the last and first purl of 2 circles are joined, 4 chain; in
+each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2 double
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1
+double, 3 long double, 1 double.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>16<em>and</em> 17.--<em>Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_16"><img alt=
+"Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting." src=
+"images/image016.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim
+of the bonnet. It is tied at the back under the chignon. The veil
+is of black silk net. The flowrets are tatted with black purse
+silk, and worked in appliqu&eacute; over the tulle. The veil is
+edged round with a tatted lace made <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_16" id="page_16">[16]</a></span> with the same silk. For the
+patterns and lace and instructions, see Nos. 18 and 19. No. 16
+shows the way in which the veil is worn upon the bonnet, and No. 17
+shows its shape when stretched out.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_17"><img alt="Shape of veil." src=
+"images/image017.jpg" width="529" height="256"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>18 <em>and</em> 19.--<em>Patterns in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 120
+for a white veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin No.
+2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_18"><img alt="Tatting Pattern for Veil(16)"
+src="images/image018.jpg" width="250" height="196"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_19"><img alt="Tatting Pattern for Veil(16)"
+src="images/image019.jpg" width="262" height="223"></a></center>
+
+<p>The patterns Nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil
+No. 16. They are sewn upon the net at regular distances.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_17" id=
+"page_17">[17]</a></span>
+
+<p>For working the pattern No. 18, make with black silk or white
+cotton 6 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl,
+then join the stitch into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next
+purl. Then 1 spot or Josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain
+stitches, carry the shuttle downwards through the loop, and draw
+the stitches close together; repeat 3 times more from *. Fasten the
+silk on to the next purl, and work a circle as follows:--8 times 2
+double, divided by 1 purl; fasten the silk on to the next purl,
+work again 1 spot, after which the silk is fastened, then work 2
+more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they are fastened on to the
+last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1st purl. Fasten
+off the silk after the last circle.</p>
+
+<p>For No. 19 work 25 double, divided by 1 purl, join the stitches
+into a circle, knot the beginning and the end of the cotton
+together, cut off the ends at a short distance. Then work a smaller
+circle, consisting of 8 double, divided by 1 purl; at the place of
+the 1st purl fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 2nd
+purl of the large circle. The ends of this circle are knotted
+together and cut off in the same way. Then work a circle consisting
+of 11 double, fasten the silk on to the 20th purl of the large
+circle, work 5 double, and join the stitches into a circle. Then
+take the ends of the 3 circles, and work close fine stitches with
+silk round them, so as to form the stem. The completed pattern is
+sewn upon the net.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>20 <em>and</em> 21.--<em>Diamond Pattern and Circle in Tatting,
+for Trimming Linen Collars, Cuffs, &amp;c.</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No 30;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>20.--DIAMOND PATTERN.--</p>
+
+<p>Work, not far one from the other, four leaves, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">[18]</a></span> each
+composed of 5 double stitches, 7 rather long purl divided one from
+the other by 2 double stitches, 5 double stitches. Instead of
+making the 1st purl in each of the 3 next leaves, fasten the cotton
+to the last leaf of preceding leaf. Fasten off and cut the cotton;
+begin a fresh circle by 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided by 2
+double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the
+centre purl of one of the four leaves, and work a very small circle
+thus:--2 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the
+first circle, 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 2 double stitches; fasten
+the cotton * to the 6th purl of the leaf; work a larger circle
+thus:--2 double stitches fastened to the purl of the small circle,
+2 double stitches, 4 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more
+double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the second purl
+of the second leaf; work another small circle similar to that
+above-described; fasten the cotton to the third purl of the second
+leaf, then to the fourth purl of the same leaf, and repeat from *
+three times more, always fastening the first purl of the first
+circle you are working (each time you repeat the pattern) to the
+purl of the last small circle last worked; fasten off and cut the
+cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_20"><img alt="Diamond in Tatting." src=
+"images/image020.jpg" width="300" height="317"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_21"><img alt="Circle in Tatting." src=
+"images/image021.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>21.--CIRCLE.--</p>
+
+<p>Begin it in the centre by working a circle of 8 purl, rather
+long, divided one from the other by 2 double stitches. After you
+have fastened off and cut the cotton, work * one very small circle
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_19" id=
+"page_19">[19]</a></span> composed of 3 double stitches, 1 long
+purl, 3 double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the first
+purl of the circle, and repeat from * 7 times more, at regular
+distances. Fasten off and cut the cotton, and begin * a fresh
+circle of 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided each by 2 double
+stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl of
+the very small circle, and work, not far off, a circle of 2 double
+stitches, 2 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double
+stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl of the next small circle,
+and repeat from * 7 times more. Instead of making the first purl of
+the next large circle, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the
+small circle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>22.--<em>Border in Tatting and Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_22"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting and Crochet." src=
+"images/image022.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin this border with one of the smaller circles consisting of
+* 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; work a large circle
+at a short distance, 5 double, 4 times 1 purl divided by 2 double,
+5 double; close to this circle another as follows:--5 double,
+fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 5 times 2
+double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double; a third circle as
+follows:--5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding
+circle, 3 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">[20]</a></span> 1 purl, 5
+double; the cotton is fastened a short distance further on to the
+second purl of the first worked small circle, which must be turned
+downwards; then turn the work so that the three circles which are
+joined together are turned downwards. Work another small circle as
+follows at the distance of two-fifths of an inch:--4 double, 1
+purl, 4 double, leave again an interval of about two-fifths of an
+inch, and repeat from * till the lace is long enough; but in
+working the following figures, consisting of three circles, the 1st
+circle must be fastened on to the last purl of the 3rd circle at
+the place of the 1st purl. Complete the tatting with the 2
+following rows of crochet:--* 1 slip stitch in the purl of one of
+the small circles turned upwards, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the
+next purl, 4 chain; repeat from *. In the following row work 1
+double in every stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>23.--<em>Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_23"><img alt=
+"Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch." src=
+"images/image023.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This insertion forms a very pretty standing-up collar when
+worked with fine cotton and a coloured ribbon drawn through. It
+consists of 2 rows <span class="newpage"><a name="page_21" id=
+"page_21">[21]</a></span> of 3 branched figures turned opposite one
+another, which are worked separately and then joined into a row.
+Work 9 times as follows:--2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, * draw into a
+circle and * work at a short distance a 2nd circle as follows:--2
+double fastened on to the last purl of the 1st circle, 8 times 2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat once more from *, knot together
+the two ends of the cotton, and fasten them on the wrong side. One
+figure is thus completed; each following figure is fastened on to
+the preceding one on the middle purl of a circle (see
+illustration). When a sufficient number of such figures have been
+worked, work a 2nd row of them in the same manner, and fasten from
+illustration each middle circle of one figure on to the
+corresponding circle of the 1st row. The circles filled with lace
+stitch are worked when the 2 rows are completed from illustration
+in the empty places between 4 patterns; work first 3 double, fasten
+them on to a purl on the side of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double,
+fasten them on to a purl of the next leaf, repeat 5 times more from
+*, work 3 double, join the stitches into a circle, but not too
+close, so that the purls keep their natural position; cut off the
+cotton, and fasten the two ends on the wrong side. The lace stitch
+inside of these circles is worked with fine crochet cotton; the
+pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>24.--<em>Insertion in Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>Begin by working separately a sufficient number of small
+rosettes, each composed of six ovals of double stitches and purl.
+These ovals are worked first in a straight row, then they are
+joined into a circle and united in the centre by button-hole
+stitches. The rosettes are joined together with fine cotton. The
+crochet border is then worked on either <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_22" id="page_22">[22]</a></span> side in chain stitches
+and treble crochet, as seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_24"><img alt="Insertion in Tatting." src=
+"images/image024.jpg" width="463" height="256"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>25.--<em>Centre of a Tatted Couvrette</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20,
+or crochet cotton No. 1; tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>This illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full
+size, and measuring 12 inches across. Separate rosettes like the
+pattern may be joined together with smaller ones, and form a very
+pretty couvrette. The pattern is worked in rounds. Begin the
+rosette with a circle, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1
+purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Take up another shuttle, and work
+over the cotton on it, fasten the end on the last double of the
+circle and work over it, beginning close to the circle, 6 plain, 1
+circle like the 1st worked with the 1st shuttle, and which is
+fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at the place of the 1st
+purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately till you have 7
+circles divided by 6 plain stitches. Draw up very tightly the
+cotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette,
+which is closed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of
+the first and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_23" id=
+"page_23">[23]</a></span> last circle. Both the ends of the cotton
+over which you have worked are knotted together. For the 2nd round,
+fasten the cotton on one shuttle on the middle purl of a circle,
+work a circle like those of the 1st round, take up the 2nd shuttle,
+and work on exactly as in the 1st round, only work 8 plain between
+the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. The 2nd round
+consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must be
+fastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of
+the preceding round. The 3rd and following rounds are worked in the
+same manner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the
+couvrette quite flat. In the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles.
+Fasten the cotton well after each round.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_25"><img alt="Centre of a Tatted Couvrette."
+src="images/image025.jpg" width="363" height="359"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_24" id=
+"page_24">[24]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<p>26.--<em>Tatted Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_26"><img alt="Tatted Lace." src=
+"images/image026.jpg" width="481" height="133"></a></center>
+
+<p>This very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they
+were slightly gathered. It must be worked with tatting cotton. Each
+scallop consists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5
+purled stitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the
+1st and last stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd
+similar scallop at a short distance from the 1st. But in the
+following scallops fasten each to the last purl of the preceding
+scallop instead of working the 1st purl.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>27.--<em>Tatted Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50
+or 80; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_27"><img alt="Tatted Lace." src=
+"images/image027.jpg" width="351" height="215"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. Work with 2
+threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in the
+right hand. Work first the outer scallops of the lace.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_25" id=
+"page_25">[25]</a></span>
+
+<p>Fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided
+by 1 purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards,
+fasten the cotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back
+over the same row, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you
+work, 9 double divided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which
+you work on the next purl of the 1st row after every double stitch.
+This forms 1 scallop. * Turn the work downwards (that is, the purl
+stitch must be turned downwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1
+purled stitch: this is the straight row between 2 outer scallops of
+the lace. Then work a scallop like the preceding one, fastening it
+from illustration after the first row on the middle one of the 9
+outer purl of the preceding scallop, with the cotton over which you
+work; repeat from * till the lace is long enough, and fasten the
+cotton. Knot both ends together again, fasten the cotton over which
+you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make 9 double, 1
+short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the row is
+turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2
+middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing
+the cotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as
+to form a loop, draw the cotton over which you work through this
+loop and draw up the latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over
+which you work on to the short purl worked after 9 double, turn the
+work so that the outer scallops of the lace are turned downwards,
+10 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the first purl
+of the next scallop, repeat from *, and fasten the cotton. After
+having fastened both ends together again, turn the work the right
+side upwards and the outer scallops upwards also, fasten the cotton
+over which you work on to the short purl which is under the first
+loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_26" id="page_26">[26]</a></span> double, fasten the
+cotton over which you work on the purl under the next loop, and
+repeat from * till the lace is completed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>28.--<em>Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s French embroidery
+cotton No. 60; square netting.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_28"><img alt=
+"Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting" src="images/image028.jpg"
+width="462" height="297"></a></center>
+
+<p>The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted
+grounding over a mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The
+collar is ornamented round the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work
+a straight strip of netting for the grounding; begin with 2
+stitches, work 18 rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 at the
+end of each row, so that the last row has 19 holes; work 1 row
+without increasing; then continue to work with the same number of
+stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and decreasing 1 at
+the end of the other. When the strip is sufficiently <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">[27]</a></span> long, work
+1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form the side by
+making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each, cast off
+the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on the
+needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick
+cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning is
+completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6
+double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6
+double, draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving
+one-fifth of an inch between the first and last stitch; work a
+second scallop at a short distance from the first, and so on; every
+scallop is fastened on to the preceding one after the first 3
+double stitches. Work a row of double overcast stitch between the
+darned netting and the tatted lace; work this row over the cotton
+tracing, marking the outline of the collar on the grounding and
+over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work also a row of
+double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a
+little if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close
+to the row of overcast stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>29.--<em>Mignardise and Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+fine mignardise braid.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_29"><img alt="Mignardise and Tatting." src=
+"images/image029.jpg" width="268" height="292"></a></center>
+
+<p>Patterns formed of mignardise and tatting are of quite new
+style, and look very pretty. The insertion is easy to work by the
+following process:--Make first a circle, as follows: 1 plain
+stitch, 2 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 plain;
+fasten the cotton on to one side of the mignardise, at the distance
+of about five-eighths of an <span class="newpage"><a name="page_28"
+id="page_28">[28]</a></span> inch, by taking 2 loops of it
+together; work a second circle at a short distance from the first,
+and so on. When the strip of insertion is sufficiently long, work
+in the same manner on the other side of the mignardise. This kind
+of work is destined to become very popular, and nothing can be more
+light and graceful than the union of mignardise and tatting.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>30.--<em>Linen Bag for Cotton</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine linen, 6 inches square; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_30"><img alt="Linen Bag for Cotton." src=
+"images/image030.jpg" width="312" height="247"></a></center>
+
+<p>The bag seen in illustration No. 30 is meant to keep the cotton
+for working a couvrette; it consists of a round piece, measuring 6
+inches across, which is hemmed all round, and trimmed with a tatted
+lace. It is drawn together at top.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>31.--<em>Tatting Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_29" id=
+"page_29">[29]</a></span>
+
+<p>The insertion shown in illustration No. 31 is composed in two
+similar halves. Begin the first in the following way:--10 double, 1
+purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 10 double, join the stitches into a circle,
+and work a second similar circle at a distance of one-third of an
+inch; instead of the 1st purl, draw the cotton through the 2nd purl
+of the first-worked circle; leave an interval of one-eighth of an
+inch, and repeat the two rounds till the insertion is sufficiently
+long. Then tat round the pieces of cotton which join the two
+rounds, work round the longest 10 double, and round the shortest 4
+double, inserting the shuttle alternately once upwards and once
+downwards, but for the rest proceeding as in the common button-hole
+stitch. When the first half is completed, work the second in the
+same way, and fasten it on to the first with the purl.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_31"><img alt="Tatting Insertion." src=
+"images/image031.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>32.--<em>Tatting Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_32"><img alt="Tatting Insertion." src=
+"images/image032.jpg" width="314" height="213"></a></center>
+
+<p>The pretty effect of the insertion shown in illustration No. 32
+is obtained by means of longer and shorter purl. Work as
+follows:--Join 9 double into a circle, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1
+long purl, 4 double *. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_30" id=
+"page_30">[30]</a></span> After an interval of five-eighths of an
+inch, begin the large figure of the pattern: 2 double, 1 small
+purl, 2 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the small
+circle, 2 double, drawn through the 1st purl of the same circle, 2
+double, 1 small purl, 2 double, 1 long purl, 2 double, 1 small
+purl, 2 double, repeat 6 times more from *, and draw up. After an
+interval of five-eighths of an inch comes another small circle: 4
+double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the large figure,
+3 double, draw the cotton through the next long purl of the same
+figure, 2 double, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double.
+Repeat the pattern for the length of insertion required. The
+threads which join the small circles are worked over with 7 double
+in the manner described above, only the cotton at the principal
+figure must be left loose the width of a straw, so as to imitate a
+long purl. Complete the insertion from illustration by tatting
+round the small circles of 16 double on the other side (but in the
+contrary direction), form no purl, but draw the cotton through the
+long purl of the large figure; the threads which join the 2 circles
+are likewise drawn through the middle long purl of the large
+figure; this thread is then tatted over with 7 double, like the
+opposite outer edge.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>33.--<em>Tatted Square or Diamond</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: If for couvrettes, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+tatting cotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 4; tatting-pin No. 3.
+For d'oyleys, tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2. For
+headdresses, tatting cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>The square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked
+in 3 rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with
+purl. Each pattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and
+each branch consists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4
+branches of one <span class="newpage"><a name="page_31" id=
+"page_31">[31]</a></span> pattern are completed, cut off the
+cotton, and fasten both ends together so as to form a small circle
+in the centre. Then work a second pattern, which is fastened on to
+the first and second branches of the first pattern, instead of
+working the purl stitch; work a third pattern, which is fastened in
+the same manner on to the second pattern. Then work 2 more rows
+exactly the same as can be seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_33"><img alt="Tatted Square." src=
+"images/image033.jpg" width="231" height="255"></a></center>
+
+<p>*For the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first
+purl of the first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2
+double, 4 double, draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton
+again on to the same purl of the first pattern *, and work the
+following scallop at a short distance:--4 double fastened on the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 10 purl divided by 2 double, 4
+double, draw up the stitch, leaving an interval of two-fifths of an
+inch between the first and the last; fasten the cotton on to the
+next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twice more from *, and
+continue to repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_32" id=
+"page_32">[32]</a></span>
+
+<p>34.--<em>Tatted Rosette</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40,
+or crochet cotton No. 60.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_34"><img alt="Tatted Rosette." src=
+"images/image034.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This rosette is very pretty for trimming <em>lingeries</em>; it
+is worked with very fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the
+centre and work one circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl,
+then 1 purled stitch. Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and
+work the 2nd round: 1 small circle, consisting of 6 double divided
+by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle
+circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round: Fasten the cotton on the
+middle purl of the first circle of the preceding round, * work at a
+short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a
+circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance on to the middle
+purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and repeat in
+rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>35.--<em>Rosette in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_35"><img alt="Rosette in Tatting." src=
+"images/image035.jpg" width="268" height="289"></a></center>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches
+into a circle and fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work
+over the cotton on this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton
+together * and work 5 plain, <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_33" id="page_33">[33]</a></span> fasten the cotton over which
+you work on a purl of the circle which is completed, and which must
+be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7 times more from *,
+and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of the shuttles the small
+circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a purl of the
+second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 6
+double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second round,
+work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the same
+distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton
+neatly.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>36.--<em>Diamond in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials:Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_36"><img alt="Diamond in Tatting." src=
+"images/image036.jpg" width="274" height="268"></a></center>
+
+<p>This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &amp;c.,
+when worked with fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns
+separately, as <span class="newpage"><a name="page_34" id=
+"page_34">[34]</a></span> follows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3
+double, 6 double, join the stitches into a circle, work close to
+this circle a second one consisting of 6 double fastened on the
+last purl of the 1st circle, 4 double, 2 purl divided by 4 double,
+6 double; then a 3rd circle consisting of 6 double fastened on the
+last purl of the preceding circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3
+double, 7 double. Take a second shuttle, fasten the cotton on the
+end of the cotton of the 1st circle, throw the cotton of the 1st
+shuttle over the fingers of the left hand, and work with this
+cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the right hand. Work
+5 double, and then one circle as follows with the cotton in the
+left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the 3rd of
+the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5
+double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the
+cotton on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double,
+5 double, then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6
+double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double
+fastened on 1st purl of the circle worked at the beginning, 8
+double; then again with two shuttles 5 double. Fasten the cotton on
+the piece of cotton before the 5 double worked with two shuttles,
+so that the stitches worked over two shuttles form a circle, and
+cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns have been worked,
+work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4 leaves
+touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3
+double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf
+is fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl.
+Then work first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with
+which the corner patterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl
+of one corner pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on
+the corresponding purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1
+purl, 7 double, join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton
+on to the same purl to <span class="newpage"><a name="page_35" id=
+"page_35">[35]</a></span> which the cotton has already been
+fastened, carry the latter on to the next purl of the same corner
+pattern, fasten it, then work three more circles like the first,
+which are fastened on to each preceding circle, at the place of the
+first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl of the centre
+pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side of the
+same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite
+direction are worked in the same manner. When the square is
+completed, draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on
+to the other side of the square along the cotton which joins the
+circles together.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>37.--<em>Tatting for Cap Crown</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100; tatting-pin No. 1.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_37"><img alt="Tatting for Cap Crown." src=
+"images/image037.jpg" width="306" height="191"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one
+described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &amp;c.
+The size of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the
+pattern. The pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It
+consists of eight-branched rosettes joined together with small
+circles. Each rosette is worked as follows: Work 8 loops or
+branches close to each other, consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7
+double; fasten both ends of the <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_36" id="page_36">[36]</a></span> cotton together, and cut
+them off. Each of the small circles which joins the rosettes
+together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double. It is
+easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined
+together by means of the purl stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>38 <em>and</em> 39.--<em>Cap in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100
+tatting-pin No. 1.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_38"><img alt="Cap in Tatting." src=
+"images/image038.jpg" width="302" height="434"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_37" id=
+"page_37">[37]</a></span>
+
+<p>This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged
+all round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also.
+The cap is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue
+velvet. A narrow velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight
+open-work edge of the lace, as can be seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_39"><img alt="Border for Cap No. 38." src=
+"images/image039.jpg" width="372" height="262"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 39.--Border for Cap.--The upper part of the border consists
+of 4 rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an
+inch from each other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3
+double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3
+rows each circle is fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2
+circles in the 1st row, instead of working the middle purl, the
+cotton between 2 circles in the last row must only be two-fifths of
+an inch long. Then work a certain number of six-branched rosettes,
+each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double. Each rosette
+is fastened on to every other circle of the 1st row, as can be seen
+in illustration. The border is completed as <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">[38]</a></span>
+follows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch
+fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain,
+6 purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the
+lace so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on
+to the purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double,
+7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the
+purl of the next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1
+double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat
+once more from *, work 1 double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1
+double, and repeat from * to the end of the lace.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>40.--<em>Lace in Tatting and Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_40"><img alt="Lace in Tatting and Crochet."
+src="images/image040.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of
+the tatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the
+circles must be drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4
+double, 8 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle
+a second one; 5 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding
+circle, 8 times 2 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_39" id=
+"page_39">[39]</a></span> double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl 5
+double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first,
+but instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of
+the preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and
+repeat from * till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is
+worked in crochet. Take the fine crochet cotton and work the
+straight row at the top to join the patterns together. Crochet 1
+double in the 3 first and last purl of the first and last circle of
+one pattern, then a sufficient number of double stitches under the
+piece of cotton which joins 2 circles. At the place where the
+circles are drawn together, join the two pieces of cotton (the
+beginning and the end) in such a manner that the top of the lace
+forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd row consists of 1
+treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Then work
+on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches divided by
+chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of the
+circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st
+circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1
+treble, 3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st
+treble only so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd
+treble is completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain,
+5 treble divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following
+purl, which are cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2
+treble divided by 3 chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain,
+1 long treble with which you must join the last purl and the first
+one of the next pattern, 1 chain; repeat from *. The next row
+consists of small scallops worked round the chain stitch scallops
+of the preceding row; work in each 1 double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1
+double in the first and last chain stitch of every pattern.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_40" id=
+"page_40">[40]</a></span>
+
+<p>41.--<em>Insertion in Tatting and Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+crochet cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_41"><img alt=
+"Insertion in Tatting and Crochet." src=
+"images/image041.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. Work with the
+cotton on one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the following
+manner:--Knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double
+divided by a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st
+and 3rd purl must be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one
+two-fifths of an inch; 4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1
+purl two-fifths of an inch long; repeat from * till the strip of
+insertion is sufficiently long. Then work a similar row of tatting,
+and join the two rows before working the 1 long purl, by fastening
+the cotton on the corresponding long purl of the 1st row, so that
+the 2 rows are joined closely together, and the purl stitches of
+either are turned outwards. At the top and bottom of the tatting
+work the 3 following rows of crochet:--* 1 double in the middle one
+of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3 following
+long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row. 8
+double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of the preceding
+row under 3 chain. The 3rd row consists of treble stitches in <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">[41]</a></span>
+every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Lastly, the leaves
+are worked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long
+purl of a pattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross
+stitches between the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine
+cotton.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>42.--<em>Purse in Tatting and Beads</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glac&eacute;
+silk; a steel clasp with chain.</p>
+
+<p>This purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. The
+beads are threaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over
+another piece of the same. Begin each of the second halves of the
+purse with the circle in the centre, which consists of 1 purled
+stitch, 1 purl (all the purl of this circle are three-tenths of an
+inch long, and are covered with six beads, which must be drawn up
+close together before working the purl), 12 double divided by 1
+purl. Join the stitches into a circle by knotting together the two
+ends of the silk.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Begin again and work one of the small
+circles; * 2 double, draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short
+purl without beads, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten
+the silk on the purl of the middle circle, so as to let it come
+between the 3rd and 4th bead of the 6 beads on that purl; 2 double,
+1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 2 double, 1 bead after
+each, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle, draw up 2 beads;
+work a larger circle without fastening the silk belonging to the
+smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4
+beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl, 3
+double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double,
+1 bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large
+circle <span class="newpage"><a name="page_42" id=
+"page_42">[42]</a></span> and repeat from *. Each following small
+circle must be fastened on the next purl of the circle which forms
+the centre; they are also fastened on to each other, instead of
+working the 1st purl, by fastening the piece of silk over which you
+work on the preceding small circle; in the larger circles, instead
+of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the piece <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">[43]</a></span> of silk
+must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, so that
+it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. At the end of the round,
+the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off.</p>
+
+
+
+<center><a name="image_42"><img alt="Purse in Tatting and Beads."
+src="images/image042.jpg" width="412" height="480"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1
+short purl, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the
+middle purl of the 1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1
+bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead
+after each, 1 double; join the stitches into a circle, and work at
+a short distance a 2nd circle; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1
+double, fastened on the last purl of the just-finished circle of
+this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the
+purl of the preceding round which is between 2 circles; the loop
+must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead after each; 1
+double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1
+double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *,
+then fasten the ends.</p>
+
+<p>When two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet
+glac&eacute; silk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew
+on the clasp. A round of large circles edges the purse round the
+outside. The 1st of these circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead
+after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after
+each, 1 double. Work a 2nd circle at a short distance from the 1st:
+* 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the purl of the
+1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1
+purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; leave a
+short interval, and repeat from * till a sufficient number of
+circles have been made. The last purl is not worked in the last
+circle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_44" id=
+"page_44">[44]</a></span> 43.--<em>Insertion in Tatting and
+Crochet.</em>
+
+<p>&gt;Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+40; crochet cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_43"><img alt=
+"Insertion in Tatting and Crochet." src="images/image043.jpg"
+width="379" height="355"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is composed of leaves and flowers. Each of the six
+leaves forming a circle is composed of 4 double, 2 purl, separated
+by 2 double, 4 double (the first and last purl of each leaf must be
+joined in the manner before explained), and the centre of each
+circle forms a wheel. The flower has four leaves: each leaf
+consists of 6 double, II purl, separated each by 1 double, and
+again 6 double; each leaf is filled up with button-hole stitches in
+fine cotton. To form the circle in the centre of this flower, turn
+several times the thread which joins the leaves, and work
+button-hole stitches round it. Join the flowers and the circles by
+knotting them together, or by making 1 purl longer than the others,
+and by drawing the next figure through. The crochet border on each
+side of the tatting consists of six rows, which are plainly seen in
+the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_45" id=
+"page_45">[45]</a></span>
+
+<p>44.--<em>Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20
+and 40.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_44"><img alt=
+"Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch." src="images/image044.jpg"
+width="563" height="391"></a></center>
+
+<p>This mixture of tatting and lace stitch is a style of work not
+only entirely new, but very pretty and effective when cotton of
+very different sizes is used. The tatting is begun with a row of
+circles two-thirds of an inch distant from each other; each circle
+consists of 13 stitches of plain tatting. Fasten a 2nd row to the
+1st, and a 3rd to the 2nd, by working a circle of 13 stitches of
+plain tatting at one-third of an inch distance, * then at the same
+distance; fasten the cotton on the next circle of the preceding
+row, work a circle at the same distance again, and repeat from *.
+The cotton is fastened on the circles by drawing it through the
+circle with a crochet-needle, so as to form a loop, and then
+drawing it out of the loop. Take care to keep the distance between
+2 circles always the same. Between the circles of the 3rd row draw
+another piece of cotton, by fastening the cotton on each <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">[46]</a></span>
+circle of the 3rd row at distances of two-thirds of an inch. Then
+work the lower edge of the border in the following way:--1 small
+spot called a <em>Josephine knot</em> (for which work 5 stitches of
+plain tatting, draw the cotton downwards through the loop which
+fastens the stitches, and draw up the whole), fasten the cotton
+between the next two circles of the 3rd row, * and a little further
+make a spot consisting of 8 stitches of single tatting, close to
+this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purl divided by 2 double, 3
+double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plain tatting, turn the
+2 last spots so as to make their round sides come opposite one
+another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 next circles of
+the 3rd row. Then a little further off work 1 small spot (5
+stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double
+fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl
+divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plain
+stitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of
+the 3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to
+the corresponding purl of the preceding one. On the other long
+side, the border is completed by 2 rows of crochet. The 1st row is
+formed by working 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2
+circles of the 1st row, with 5 chain stitches between.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch
+after every treble. The strip of insertion is then tacked on a
+piece of cardboard or oil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked
+between the circles, as is seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>45.--<em>Tatted Rosette.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30
+for large rosette, No. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie--cravats,
+caps, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_47" id=
+"page_47">[47]</a></span> handkerchiefs, &amp;c. The raised pattern
+in the centre consists of 4 rounds, consisting of 5 circles each,
+which are sewn together and then fastened on the rosette. The 5
+circles of each round must be worked close to each other: after
+working the last circle of each round, knot the beginning and end
+of the cotton together. Each circle of the smallest round has 9
+double, the circles of the next round each 15, the circles of the
+following one 21, and the circles of the last and largest round 27
+double stitches. When these circles have been sewn on one to
+another as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4
+double, 1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1
+double. The purls of this circle are fastened on to the circles of
+the next round of the rosette. Fasten the cotton on to the next
+purl of the middle circle, and work a circle as follows:--4 double,
+1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4
+double, 1 purl, 4 double. Repeat 9 times more from *, but now,
+instead of working the 1st purl of every circle, fasten it on to
+the last purl of the preceding circle. Then fasten the cotton. For
+the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds, fasten the
+cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round,
+and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1
+purl, then 4 double.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_48" id=
+"page_48">[48]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_45"><img alt="Tatted Rosette." src=
+"images/image045.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Then fasten a second thread on to the same purl on which the
+just completed circle has been fastened, and over which all the
+scallops are to be worked. Work over it 5 double, fastened on to
+the last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double,
+1 purl, 5 double. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the
+next circle of the preceding round, and repeat from * till the
+round is completed; but in working these circles, instead of the
+first purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding
+scallop. Lastly, the raised pattern is sewn on.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>46.--<em>Linen Bag for Tatting, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting
+cotton No. 30 or 40; tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_46"><img alt=
+"Linen Bag for Tatting, &amp;c." src="images/image046.jpg" width=
+"338" height="387"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work
+from being soiled before it is completed. The bag is drawn together
+round the top. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_49" id=
+"page_49">[49]</a></span> Its size depends upon what you wish to
+put into it. The original pattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3
+inches wide; it is hemmed round the top, and trimmed with a narrow
+tatted lace, consisting of large and small circles.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>47.--<em>Tatted Border.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_47"><img alt="Tatted Border." src=
+"images/image047.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the
+following manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double,
+1 purl, 2 double; draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat
+the circle at a very short distance, till the border is long
+enough; but instead of working the first purl of each circle, you
+must join the circle to the preceding one; the purl on the sides of
+the circle must therefore be longer than that in the middle.</p>
+
+<p>For the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left
+side with the cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the
+cotton in the right hand, which is also to be held between the
+thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Then work in the following
+way:--2 double, then 1 circle consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3
+double; to form this circle, let the cotton in the left-hand
+shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop round the left hand with
+the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. Then take up again the
+left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middle purl of the
+1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through the <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">[50]</a></span> purl
+like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand through
+this loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle
+purl of the next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1
+circle joined on the middle purl of the following circle; repeat
+from *.</p>
+
+<p>The upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in the
+following manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st
+circle of the 1st row of tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding
+row, 1 purl (3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of
+the preceding row under it; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>48.--<em>Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials for trimmings: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting
+cotton No. 20; tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3. For
+couvrettes, crochet cotton No. 4.</p>
+
+<p>This rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty
+trimming for articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes;
+if used for the former, they must be worked with very fine cotton.
+The centre of the rosette is formed of an embroidered raised
+pattern worked in <em>point de minute</em>; round this centre there
+are small circles worked in button-hole stitch; the embroidery is
+worked with knitting cotton, the circles with crochet cotton.
+Before beginning the circles, make a circle consisting of a
+foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten the
+button-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain
+work 1 double, then fasten the cotton. In the 2nd round of these
+circles fasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet
+circle. Work 1 round of open-work treble stitch in the double
+stitch of the crochet circle, work in tatting the border of the
+rosette as follows in 1 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_51" id=
+"page_51">[51]</a></span> round:--* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double,
+fastened on to 1 chain stitch between 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1
+purl, 2 double,; join these stitches into a circle; turn the work
+so that the wrong side lies upwards, and work a second larger
+circle at a short distance consisting of 4 double, 5 purl divided
+by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeat from *. The smaller
+circles must be fastened after every other treble stitch; the
+larger and smaller circles must be fastened above one another at
+the place of the 1st purl.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_48"><img alt=
+"Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting." src="images/image048.jpg"
+width="478" height="442"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>49--<em>Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page__52" id=
+"page__52">[52]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_49"><img alt=
+"Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting." src="images/image049.jpg"
+width="405" height="429"></a></center>
+
+<p>The diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is
+commenced in the centre. For each of the four centre leaves work 6
+double stitches, 6 purl divided one from the other by 3 double
+stitches, then 6 more double stitches. Fasten off the cotton, cut
+it, and begin a fresh leaf <span class="newpage"><a name="page__53"
+id="page__53">[53]</a></span> by working 2 double stitches, 10 purl
+divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, then 2 more double
+stitches. (This small leaf forms one of the corners of the diamond
+pattern.) Fasten the cotton to the fourth purl of one of the four
+centre leaves, and work another leaf similar to the preceding. Join
+this leaf by its two centre purl to the two last purl of the corner
+leaf (see illustration). After two more similar leaves, work one
+corner leaf, and continue the pattern in the same manner until you
+come back to the first corner leaf, then fasten off, and cut the
+cotton. Place the diamond pattern upon the point of the collar, and
+cut away the material under it; fold back the edges, sew them
+neatly, and cover them with the following crochet edging:--Make
+alternately 2 chain, 1 purl (the latter composed of 3 chain joined
+together by 1 slip stitch). It will be easy to work the circles in
+tatting from our illustration; they form an elegant border round
+the collar. We shall merely say that the centre circle is always
+worked separately, and that the cotton is fastened on afresh to
+work the eight outer leaves. The upper edge of this border is
+worked in crochet. It is composed of two rows--one formed of chain
+stitches, and a few slip stitches worked in the purl of the circles
+in tatting, the other worked in open treble crochet.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>50.--<em>Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This cravat consists of a strip of cambric muslin 1 yard long, 6
+inches wide, hemmed on both sides. The ends of the cravat are
+ornamented with patterns in tatting, worked with tatting cotton No.
+100. A rosette in tatting is sewn on in the middle of the end of
+the cravat. The end of the cravat is pointed, lined on the wrong
+side with a strip of the same material as the cravat, and edged
+with a tatted lace.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_54" id=
+"page_54">[54]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_50"><img alt="Cravat in Muslin and Tatting."
+src="images/image050.jpg" width="273" height="461"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin the rosette in the centre with a circle worked in the
+following manner:--1 double, 1 purl, * twice 2 double divided by 1
+purl, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, twice 4 double divided by 1 purl, 1
+purl, * 3 double, 1 purl; repeat from * to * once more, 2 double.
+At the beginning of the 2nd round fasten the cotton on the 1st purl
+of the 1st round, and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_55" id=
+"page_55">[55]</a></span> work as follows:--* 1 circle consisting
+of 10 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 10 double; fasten the
+cotton on to the next purl, 1 circle like the preceding one,
+fastened on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of 9 double, 1
+purl, 9 double fastened on to the next purl, 2 circles consisting
+each of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; between the 2 fasten the cotton
+on to the next purl; 2 similar circles fastened also on to the next
+purl, 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, fastened
+on to the next circle; repeat once more from *, and fasten off the
+cotton. Fasten on the cotton afresh for the 3rd round, worked in
+the following manner:--* 1 circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5
+double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl; 1 purl, 5
+double, 1 purl, 6 double; fasten the cotton at a short distance on
+to the 1st purl of the 2nd round, 1 circle worked as follows:--5
+double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle of this
+round, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1
+purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on to the next purl of
+the 2nd circle of the 2nd round; 6 similar circles, between each of
+which the cotton is to be fastened on to the nearest purl of a
+circle of the 2nd round; repeat once more from *, and knot the
+beginning and the end of the cotton together. When completed, the
+rosette is sewn on the material of the cravat with button-hole
+stitches, taking up one purl with each stitch; the muslin is cut
+away underneath the rosette; then work a round of knotted stitches
+underneath the button-hole stitch. For the lace, make a row of
+circles one-fifth of an inch distant from each other, consisting
+each of 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double
+divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 6 double, which are
+fastened together by the purl of each circle, and are sewn on the
+cravat over the cotton between the circles in overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_56" id=
+"page_56">[56]</a></span>
+
+<p>51--<em>Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_51"><img alt="Cravat in Muslin and Tatting."
+src="images/image051.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The end of this cravat is formed by a long rosette or
+<em>m&eacute;daillon</em> in tatting. This rosette is likewise
+begun in the centre, and consists of 4 rounds, the 2 first of which
+are worked like those of the rosette in <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_57" id="page_57">[57]</a></span> illustration 50, with
+this difference only, that in the 2nd round each of the circles
+nearest to the top and to the bottom of the rosette consists of 8
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 3rd round: * 1 circle,
+consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double
+divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fastened on
+to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the preceding round; 1 circle
+as follows:--5 double, the last of which is fastened on to the last
+purl of the preceding round, 4 double, 1 purl, twice 2 double
+divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on
+the next purl of the preceding round; 8 more similar circles,
+between each of which the cotton is fastened on to the next purl of
+the preceding round; repeat from * once more, fasten the two ends
+of the cotton together. 4th round: * Fasten on the cotton afresh
+with a circle consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6
+times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 7
+double, fastened on to the middle purl of the 1st circle of the
+preceding round; a 2nd circle worked in the same way, only instead
+of working the last purl, fasten the cotton on to the last purl of
+the preceding circle, then on to the 1st circle of the preceding
+round; 10 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is
+fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round,
+and then on to the 2nd purl of the larger circle at the bottom of
+the medallion; repeat once more from *. The pattern is sewn on the
+cravat with button-hole stitches, as can be seen in the
+illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>52.--<em>Border in Crochet and Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+26.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_052"><img alt=
+"Border in Crochet and Tatting." src="images/image052.jpg" width=
+"387" height="319"></a></center>
+
+<p>This border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves,
+which are joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">[58]</a></span>
+border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the
+border forms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles
+is begun in the centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is
+formed by passing the thread over the back of the hand, and then
+passing the shuttle upwards between the forefinger and second
+finger, and drawing it up, then work a stitch of plain tatting;
+this completes the double stitch, and whenever so many double
+stitches are directed it means the 2 stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9
+times, join the stitch into a circle, work at a small distance * a
+smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl, divided each by 2
+double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the purl of the
+first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each following
+circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">[59]</a></span>
+after 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the
+thread must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which
+forms the centre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the
+thread are knotted together. For the tatted border, make at short
+distances 1 loop with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having
+worked a sufficient number of such loops, wind another thread round
+the thread between the loops, turning always 1 loop on the right
+side and 1 on the left. Now begin the crochet part with the leaves.
+Make for each of these a foundation chain of 12 stitches, crochet
+back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch but one, 1 double
+in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following 7 chain, 2
+treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2 treble in
+the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on the
+other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way;
+then 3 double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the
+whole leaf with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double
+in each stitch of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble
+stitch. In working this last round, the circles must be joined to
+the leaves by taking up the purl stitch of the circle before
+casting off the corresponding double stitch of the leaf; then work
+the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles and leaves with a row of
+chain stitches, on which a row of double is worked. Then comes the
+border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of chain stitches,
+joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of treble,
+work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely in
+chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the
+loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3
+chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain,
+miss 1 under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must
+be fastened on the border, as seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_60" id=
+"page_60">[60]</a></span>
+
+<p>53.--<em>Diamond in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10;
+tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_053"><img alt="Diamond in Tatting." src=
+"images/image053.jpg" width="198" height="268"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st oval:</em> Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from
+the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working 5
+double stitches, 1 purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> Putting the thread attached to the reel
+round the left hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them
+tightly.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd oval:</em> 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval,
+then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches tightly worked.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3
+double, join to next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5
+times) 4 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_61" id=
+"page_61">[61]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+
+<p><em>6th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 7 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th oval:</em> 5 double, join to last purl of last oval,
+then (3 double, 1 purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 7 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval,
+then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em>12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4
+double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 12 single stitches.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_62" id=
+"page_62">[62]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>12th oval:</em> 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3
+double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3
+double, join to 1st purl of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up.</p>
+
+<p><em>Double thread:</em> 7 single stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at
+the back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other.</p>
+
+<p>The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with
+lacework, using fine sewing-cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty
+trimming for the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed
+with single diamonds.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>54.--<em>Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100, tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord.</p>
+
+<p>This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very
+effective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working
+for each of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one
+from the other by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches.
+When the third leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton.
+Now take, instead of the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of
+extremely fine cord, over which work with the cotton from the reel
+the following row of stitches:--1 double stitch, fasten the cotton
+to the centre purl of one of the three leaves, * 2 double stitches,
+5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 3 double
+stitches, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of the nearest leaf,
+2 double stitches, 9 purl divided one from the other by 3 double
+stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to the same purl as before.
+Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut the cord and the
+cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each composed of 12
+plain stitches placed quite close together (these form <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">[63]</a></span> one of the
+corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from the
+other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is
+fastened to one purl of the row of <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_64" id="page_64">[64]</a></span> stitches worked over the
+cord (see illustration). Cut away from the collar the piece of
+linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold in the edges
+and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up the space
+with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circle composed
+of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2 double
+stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more and
+work over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle
+composed of 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other
+by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord
+again and work over it 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2
+double stitches, 3 double stitches. Fasten the cotton to the third
+purl (reckoning from the last) of the second circle worked without
+cord; 3 double stitches fastened to the fourth purl of the row of
+stitches worked over the cord (see illustration), 2 double
+stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double
+stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3 double stitches
+fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches, 3 purl
+divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten the
+cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the
+beginning), 4 double stitches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of
+the border a crochet edging similar to that round the diamond
+pattern of collar No. 49. For the point of the border, at the
+corner of the collar, see illustration No. 54.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_54"><img alt=
+"Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting." src="images/image054.jpg"
+width="440" height="500"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>55.--<em>Tatted Collar</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No.
+100; tatting-pin No. 1.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_55"><img alt="Tatted Collar." src=
+"images/image055.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists
+of four branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles,
+fastened on to one another as seen in illustration. The four
+branched patterns are <span class="newpage"><a name="page_65" id=
+"page_65">[65]</a></span> worked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double, and join the
+knots into a circle. Work 3 similar leaves close to this 1st leaf,
+but instead of working the 1st purl, fasten them on to the last
+purl of the preceding leaf; besides this, instead of <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">[66 ]</a></span> working
+the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl of
+the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed,
+knot both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row
+of similar patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a
+branch of the preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle
+purl of the last branch (see illustration). Two rows of similar
+patterns are joined by the above-mentioned circles, consisting of
+32 double stitches, by fastening these circles from illustration
+between four branched patterns. Begin each circle with 2 double
+stitches, fasten it on to the corresponding purl of the
+four-branched pattern, work again 2 double, fasten on to the next
+purl, and continue in the same manner till the circle is
+sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lace stitch. The
+collar is edged round the neck with close button-hole stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>56.--<em>Tatted Collar</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>This collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton
+in the following manner:--1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw
+the cotton into a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1
+purl, 3 double, draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the
+first purl of the first circle; work two more circles the same as
+last. 2nd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to
+the third purl of the centre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double,
+1 purl, 3 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5
+small circles, as follow:--3 double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, *
+1 purl, 3 double, joining each circle to the purl of the 2nd oval.
+3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times, joining the 3rd purl to the
+2nd purl of the centre circle of the preceding pattern, 3 double, 1
+purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 7
+small circles, similar to the small circles described in 2nd
+oval.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_67" id=
+"page_67">[67]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_56"><img alt="Tatted Collar." src=
+"images/image056.jpg" width="285" height="218"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>57.--<em>Circle in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 2.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_57"><img alt="Circle in Tatting." src=
+"images/image057.jpg" width="175" height="190"></a></center>
+
+<p>This circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty
+for <span class="newpage"><a name="page_68" id=
+"page_68">[68]</a></span> ornamenting cravat-ends and different
+articles of lingerie. It is commenced in the centre with 2 double,
+1 purl, repeated 8 times, draw the cotton into a ring, and work 8
+small circles, as follow:--3 double, * 1 purl, 1 double, repeat
+from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up the cotton, and join it
+to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle. Large circle:
+3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3 double,
+draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle.
+The centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>58.--<em>Tatting Medallion for Trimming Lingeries,
+&amp;c.c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50
+for cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for
+petticoats; tatting-pin No. 2 or 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_58"><img alt="Tatting Medallion." src=
+"images/image058.jpg" width="292" height="428"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars,
+pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &amp;c.c., according to the size
+of the cotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of
+circles which incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the
+centre; begin with the smallest circle, which is at the top of the
+pattern; it consists of 3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7
+double, 1 purl, 3 double. Then work at a short distance another
+circle like the preceding one, only work 8 double instead of 7, and
+instead of working the first purl, fasten the circle on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle; all the other circles are fastened on
+to each other in the same manner. The next circle, worked again at
+a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4 double; fasten it
+on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double, 1 purl, 4
+double. The following four circles are worked like the preceding
+one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead of
+9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece of
+cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat
+longer between the larger circles. Then work a circle <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">[69]</a></span> as
+follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double,
+1 purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14
+double instead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten
+the cotton, 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two
+following circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double
+instead of 15. Then comes the largest circle of the round, which
+consists of 6 double, 17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6
+double. Work 11 circles more <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_70" id="page_70">[70]</a></span> like the 2nd to 12th of
+those just described (the 13th circle forms the middle), only the
+order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round closes with the
+smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cotton together, so
+that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work round this row
+of circles another round, the circles of which must be of graduated
+sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on to the
+middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work
+one circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2
+double, 1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle
+purl of the next circle, &amp;c.c. The remaining circles are worked
+in the same manner, only they must be increased and decreased in
+size gradually like the circles of the first round; this is done by
+increasing or decreasing the number of purl, instead of working the
+first purl of every following circle, fasten it on to the last purl
+of the preceding circle. When the round is completed, fasten both
+ends of the cotton together. In the centre of the oval pattern,
+fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated size, which are worked
+in one piece. For the smallest of these patterns work first three
+circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times alternately 2
+double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be close to
+each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be
+fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton
+is then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the
+end of the same, then work close to them two small circles,
+consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between
+the beginning and the end of the third circle. The other
+five-branched patterns are worked in the same manner at intervals
+of about three-tenths of an inch; but the separate circles of each
+pattern must become gradually larger. In the largest pattern the
+three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">[71]</a></span> 8 times
+alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles
+consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other
+patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins
+these last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and
+thread, so as to imitate double stitches. The five-branched
+patterns are then fastened in the oval pattern; they must overlap
+each other to half way, as seen in the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>59.--<em>Tatted Diamond</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40,
+or 80 if required finer; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_59"><img alt="Tatted Diamond." src=
+"images/image059.jpg" width="190" height="198"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with
+fine tatting cotton in the following manner:--Work a * circle
+consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards
+and work at a short distance another circle consisting of 5 double,
+4 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; at a similar distance a
+circle of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding
+circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; then again
+a circle consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the
+preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2 <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">[72]</a></span> double, 5
+double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. Then turn the
+work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave an
+interval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three
+times more from *, fastening the circles on to each other from
+illustration. Knot together the beginning and end of the cotton,
+work button-hole stitches round the cotton which joins the circles,
+as shown in illustration. The purl stitches of the four middle
+circles of the diamond are knotted together.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>60.--<em>Tatted Cravat End</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3; 2 shuttles.</p>
+
+<p>This cravat end is given in full size. It is ornamented with a
+tatted medallion, edged with lace. The tatting is worked with
+tatting fine cotton and two shuttles. Make first the two rosettes
+which form the centre of the medallion, then the insertion-like
+part which edges the rosettes. The larger rosette is worked as
+follows:--Knot the cotton of both shuttles together and work with 1
+shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of
+an inch long, 10 double; * close to this circle, which is turned
+downwards, work over the cotton with the other shuttle, 1 double, 1
+purl, 8 double; this forms one of the scallops joining two circles.
+Then turn the work again and work close to the just completed
+scallop another circle like the first, but which is joined to the
+first circle instead of working the purl. Repeat 4 times more from
+*. Then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton on to
+the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the
+place where the scallop is joined to the first circle. The first
+round of the rosette is thus completed.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_60"><img alt="Tatted Cravat End." src=
+"images/image060.jpg" width="212" height="265"></a></center>
+
+<p>Work then the 2nd round over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle,
+beginning to work where the two ends of cotton have <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">[73]</a></span> been
+fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl of
+the next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double
+fastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">[74]</a></span> preceding
+round; repeat 5 times more from *. The larger rosette is now
+completed. The smaller rosette is worked like the first, only
+without the second round. The insertion-like border is worked in
+two halves as follows:--The half which touches the edge of the
+medallion is worked as follows:--Knot both ends of cotton together
+and *, work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1
+purl one-fifth of an inch long, 8 double; turn the circle downwards
+and work close to it over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1
+purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop of the border. Then turn the
+work again and work close to the scallop another circle like the
+first, but which is fastened on to the first circle instead of
+working the purl. Turn the work again, work a scallop like the
+preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only the scallops
+at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few double stitches
+more, as can be seen in illustration. After working the last
+scallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle;
+then cut them off. The second inner half is worked like the first;
+only the circles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened
+on to the circles of the first half from illustration; the scallops
+of this half are somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1
+purl, 5 double. The completed border is sewn on to the rosettes
+from illustration; the different pieces must be first fastened on
+cardboard. The cotton must be wound several times round the long
+threads, as seen in illustration. The medallion is then sewn into
+the muslin at the top only; the remaining border is edged, before
+joining it to the muslin, with a straight row of knots to be worked
+over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop of the border at
+regular intervals. The number of double stitches between two purl
+is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. For the lace knot
+both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circle
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_75" id=
+"page_75">[75]</a></span> consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double;
+turn the work and make another circle consisting of 2 double, 9
+times alternately 1 purl, 2 double; then fasten this circle on to
+the preceding one, where it has been joined into a circle, so that
+both circles meet as seen in illustration. After having turned the
+work again, work 9 double over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle, which
+form a scallop between the circles, and repeat from *. The lace is
+then sewn round the edge of the muslin.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>61.--<em>Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60,
+or No. 40 if desired in a larger size.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_61"><img alt=
+"Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery." src="images/image061.jpg"
+width="225" height="205"></a></center>
+
+<p>This rosette is suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats,
+&amp;c.c. It is worked in white embroidery and lace stitch, and
+edged all round with a tatted lace. For the latter work with very
+fine cotton * 1 large circle, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 7
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 5 double. At a short
+distance from this circle work a smaller one, consisting of 5
+double fastened on to the last purl of the large circle, 5 double.
+Leave again an interval as small as the last, and repeat from <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">[76]</a></span> * 11
+times more. But in working the large circles, instead of working
+the 1st purl, fasten them on the same purl of the large circle on
+which the small circle has been fastened; besides this, in working
+the last (12th) large circle, instead of working the last purl,
+fasten it on the 1st purl of the 1st circle; the last small circle
+is fastened on to the same purl. The lace is thus joined into a
+circle, and is sewn round the outside of the rosette with
+button-hole stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_62"><img alt="Cravat End in Tatting" src=
+"images/image062.jpg" width="289" height="319"></a></center>
+
+<p>62--<em>Cravat End in Tatting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60;
+tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>The illustration shows the end of a tatted cravat. Work first
+the middle row of the cravat at the same time with the row of
+circles on the left side of the middle row in illustration; begin
+with the first circle of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_77"
+id="page_77">[77]</a></span> the middle row. It consists of 7 times
+alternately 3 double, 1 small purl, then 3 double. Work close to
+this circle, which must be turned downwards, a Josephine knot,
+consisting of 5 plain stitches, then a circle consisting of 5
+double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 5 times alternately 3
+double, 1 small purl; 3 double, 1 long purl, 5 double. *Turn this
+circle (which is the first of the side row) downwards, work close
+to it a Josephine knot, then a circle consisting of 12 double, 1
+small purl, 12 double. Turn this circle downwards, work a Josephine
+knot, and then again a circle like the first of the side row, but
+instead of working the first long purl, fasten it on to the last
+purl of the preceding circle of the same row. Then hold the work so
+that the circles of the side row are turned downwards, work a
+Josephine knot, 1 circle like the first circle of the middle row,
+turn the work, make 1 Josephine knot, and then a circle like the
+second circle of the side row. Repeat from * till the cravat is
+sufficiently long. The last circle of the middle row must
+correspond to the first circle of the same row. Then begin to work
+the lower edge at the same time with the last circle of the middle
+row, * 1 Josephine knot, then a circle like the circles of the side
+row, again 1 Josephine knot, fastened on to the next purl of the
+last circle of the middle row; repeat 3 times more from *. Then
+continue as before, and work on the right side of the middle row a
+row of circles exactly like those which have been worked at the
+same time with those of the middle row.</p>
+
+<p>The fastening on of the cotton between two Josephine knots is
+seen in illustration. The circles at the other end of the cravat
+are fastened like those of the first-described end. The cravat is
+edged all round with a row of circles with Josephine knots worked
+exactly like those of the preceding row, and the manner of
+fastening which is seen in the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_78" id=
+"page_78">[78]</a></span>
+
+<p>63.--<em>Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60,
+or 40 if required larger; tatting-pin No. 3.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_63"><img alt=
+"Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery." src="images/image063.jpg"
+width="216" height="191"></a></center>
+
+<p>The centre of this rosette is worked in lace stitch on muslin,
+edged round with button-hole stitch and trimmed with a tatted lace,
+which is worked at the same time with the centre. Work first * a
+small circle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 3 double, fastened on
+to the button-hole stitch edging of the rosette, then 3 double, 1
+purl, 5 double. Then turn the just-completed circle downwards, and
+afterwards work at a short distance a large circle consisting of 7
+double, 6 times alternately 1 purl, 2 double, lastly 1 purl, 7
+double, then 1 Josephine knot consisting of 7 plain. Then turn the
+work again, so that the last large circle is turned downwards, and
+repeat from * 12 times more; the large and small circles must be
+fastened on to one another, as seen in illustration. The fastening
+of the small circles on to the centre is likewise done from the
+illustration.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_79" id=
+"page_79">[79]</a></span>
+
+<p>64.--<em>Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50;
+tatting-pin No. 3; square of netting; fine Mecklenburg thread No.
+80.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_64"><img alt=
+"Cravat End in Tatting and Darned Netting." src=
+"images/image064.jpg" width="295" height="451"></a></center>
+
+<p>The end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned
+netting, edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of
+the cravat. But the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square
+(page 31) will look <span class="newpage"><a name="page_80" id=
+"page_80">[80]</a></span> very pretty with this border. The square
+is worked in diamond netting, and has seven holes in length and
+breadth. They are darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and
+<em>point d'esprit</em>, with Mecklenburg thread. The ground is
+worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inch round. For
+each square one more row than is needed must be worked, and the
+cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitches
+of the other rows. The tatted border is worked with fine tatting
+cotton. Fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a
+circle consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2
+double, 1 purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch
+of the ground where it was first fastened; #work a second circle
+like the first, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on
+to the last purl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again
+on to the same stitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small
+circle, consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the
+preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double. The cotton is
+fastened on to the same netted stitch as before, and then on to the
+next stitch; repeat twice more from #, and then repeat from * in
+all three times more, so that the square is edged all round. It is
+sewn into the material from the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>65.--<em>Tatted Antimacassar. (See pages</em> <a href=
+"#page_574">574-5</a>).</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+30, or tatting cotton No. 24, or for a larger size tatting cotton
+No. 20; tatting-pin No. 1; large shuttle.</p>
+
+<p>The illustration shows the fourth of the antimacassar and the
+whole of the rosette which forms the centre. Begin with the latter,
+with the five-branched pattern in the centre, at the same time with
+the following round of circles:--*Work first one circle of this
+round, consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2
+double, 1 purl, 3 double; then at <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_81" id="page_81">[81]</a></span> a short distance a circle
+like the one just made, in which, however, instead of working the
+first purl, the cotton must be joined on to the last purl of the
+preceding circle. Then work at a short distance the first leaf of
+the five-branched pattern, which consists of 4 double, 1 purl, 4
+double. When this branch is completed, repeat at a short distance 4
+times more from *; but in working the branches of the five-branched
+pattern, instead of working the purl, join it on to the purl of the
+first branch of the five-branched pattern (this purl forms the
+centre of the pattern). All the circles must also be joined one to
+each other, as can be seen from illustration. Then work the
+scallops round the border of the rosette, * fasten the cotton on to
+the purl which joins the two next circles of the preceding round,
+and work one scallop consisting of 11 times alternately 2 double, 1
+purl, then 2 double. Repeat 9 times more from *. When the rosette
+is completed, work eight rosettes in the same manner and join them
+into a circle from illustration by means of small three-branched
+patterns, and then join them on to the middle rosette.</p>
+
+<p>The strip of insertion which comes next is worked in two halves
+as follows:--Work first, for the half turned towards the centre,
+two rows of circles lying opposite each other; begin with one of
+the largest circles, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 3 times
+alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 4 double; * at a short distance
+work a smaller circle of 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double; after another
+short distance, a circle like the first joined on to it; then again
+a smaller circle, which at the place of the first purl is joined on
+to the purl of the preceding small circle. A short distance from
+this work again one of the larger circles just described, which is
+fastened on to the preceding similar circle; then repeat from *
+till the double row has nine larger and eight smaller circles. The
+first half of the strip of insertion is completed; the <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">[82]</a></span> second
+outer half is worked like the first, only the small circles must
+here be worked without any purl, and two of them together must
+always be fastened on to the two joined small circles of the first
+half, as was done for the five-branched pattern of the rosette;
+besides this, each of the large circles has 4 double, 1 purl, 4
+times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 4 double. When eight
+similar patterns have been worked, join them into a circle from
+illustration by means of small rosettes; this circle is then joined
+to the already-finished part of the cover. The small rosettes and
+remaining patterns of the antimacassar are easily worked from
+illustration. The completed patterns are joined together in the
+course of the work.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>TATTING COTTON</p>
+
+<p>Is supplied by Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of Derby, in all
+sizes from 20 to 120. Crochet Cotton, which is preferred by some
+Tatters, is sold in all sizes from to 120.</p>
+
+<p>The following table will assist ladies in selecting the size of
+either tatting or crochet cotton. All these cottons are on reels
+containing 100 yards:--</p>
+
+<table summary="Table for selection of threads" border="2"
+cellpadding="4">
+<tr>
+<th>&nbsp;</th>
+<th>Tatting.</th>
+<th>Crochet.</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Petticoat Edgings and Insertions</td>
+<td>20</td>
+<td>0 and 12</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Night Dress Trimmings</td>
+<td>40</td>
+<td>60</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lingerie Trimming</td>
+<td>50</td>
+<td>70</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Collars and Cravats</td>
+<td>50</td>
+<td>70</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pocket Handkerchiefs</td>
+<td>100</td>
+<td>120</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Parasol Covers</td>
+<td>100</td>
+<td>120</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Antimacassars</td>
+<td>20,&nbsp; 30</td>
+<td>0 and 20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pincushions</td>
+<td>60</td>
+<td>80</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Caps</td>
+<td>100</td>
+<td>120</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lace</td>
+<td>60, 80, 100</td>
+<td>80,&nbsp;100, &nbsp;120</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Insertions</td>
+<td>20,&nbsp;40,&nbsp;80</td>
+<td>40,&nbsp;80,&nbsp;100</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Ladies at a distance from town or on the Continent will be glad
+to have some guide as to the quantity of cotton required to
+complete their work. The quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used
+by an average worker is found to be two yards to the square inch
+with a single shuttle; three yards to the square inch with two
+shuttles.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_83" id=
+"page_83">[83]</a></span> <br>
+<br>
+
+
+<h2>EMBROIDERY</h2>
+
+<a name="EMBROIDERY_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+<h3>EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<p>The art of embroidering with cotton on linen, muslin, cambric,
+piqu&eacute;, &amp;c.c., is very easy to learn by strictly
+attending to the following instructions.</p>
+
+<p>The size of the thread and needle must correspond to that of the
+material on which you embroider; the needle must not be too long,
+and the cotton must be soft. Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton is the best. Skilful embroiderers never work over
+anything, because when you tack the material on paper or cloth each
+stitch shows, and if the material is very fine, leaves small holes;
+but for those that are learning we should advise them to tack the
+material to be embroidered upon a piece of <em>toile
+cir&eacute;e</em>. If you work without this, place the material
+straight over the forefinger of the left hand; the material must
+never be held slantways. The three other fingers of the left hand
+hold the work; the thumb remains free to give the right position to
+each stitch. The work must always, if possible, lie so that the
+outline of the pattern is turned towards the person who works. For
+the sake of greater clearness one part of the following
+illustrations is given in larger size than nature. Preparing the
+patterns is one of the most important things in embroidery, for the
+shape of the patterns is often spoiled merely because they have not
+been prepared with sufficient care.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_84" id=
+"page_84">[84]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_66"><img alt="Scallop." src=
+"images/image066.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 66 shows how to prepare a scallop. Take thicker
+cotton than that with which you work; never commence with a knot,
+and do not take a thread longer than sixteen or eighteen inches.
+The outlines of the scallops are first traced with short straight
+stitches. In the corners particularly the stitches must be short.
+The space between the outlines is filled with chain stitches, as
+can be seen from illustration; they must not be too long, otherwise
+the embroidery will look coarse. It is in this way that every
+pattern to be worked in button-hole or satin stitch is to be
+prepared.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_67"><img alt="Double Overcast Stitch." src=
+"images/image067.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 67 shows the double overcast stitch or button-hole
+stitch in a straight line. After having traced the outline begin to
+work from left to right; fasten the cotton with a few stitches,
+hold it with the thumb of the left hand under the outline, insert
+the needle downwards above the outline, draw it out under the same
+above the cotton which you hold in the left hand, and draw it up.
+Repeat for all the stitches in the same manner; they must be
+regular and lie close to one another. Great care should be taken
+that the material on which you embroider is not puckered.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_68"><img alt="Overcast Stitch." src=
+"images/image068.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 68 (<em>Overcast Stitch</em>).--The double overcast
+and the button-hole stitches are worked from left to right, whilst
+back stitches, knotted and satin stitches are worked from right to
+left. The stitch is worked in the same way as the double overcast,
+only the needle must never be drawn out <em>above</em>, but
+<em>below</em>, the cotton with which you work, and which you keep
+down with the thumb of the left hand.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_69"><img alt="Slanting Overcast Stitch."
+src="images/image069.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 69.--The slanting overcast stitch is worked without
+tracing the outline, always inserting the needle downwards--that
+is, from top to bottom. The needle must be inserted in the manner
+shown in illustration--that is, not straight, but slanting; insert
+it a little farther than the last stitch, and draw it out close to
+it. The wrong side of the work must show back stitches. This sort
+of stitch is used for the fine outlines in patterns or letter.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_86" id=
+"page_86">[86]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_70"><img alt="Back Stitch." src=
+"images/image070.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 70.--This shows the back stitch, the working of
+which is well known; it is worked in several rows close to each
+other.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_71"><img alt="Point Crois&eacute;." src=
+"images/image071.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_72"><img alt="Point Crois&eacute;." src=
+"images/image072.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 71 &amp; 72 show another kind of back stitch,
+called <em>point crois&eacute;</em>, which is only used on very
+thin and transparent materials. This stitch forms on the wrong side
+a sort of darned pattern, which is seen by transparence on the
+right side, and gives the embroidered pattern a thicker appearance,
+contrasting with the rest of the work (see the lower leaves of the
+flower on illustration <a href="#image_110">110</a>). For this
+stitch insert the needle into the material as for the common back
+stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on the opposite outline
+of the pattern, so as to form on the wrong side a slanting line.
+Insert the needle again as for common back stitch; draw it out
+slanting at the place marked for the next stitch on the opposite
+outline, as shown in illustration 71.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_73"><img alt="Knotted Stitch." src=
+"images/image073.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_87" id=
+"page_87">[87]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 73 shows the knotted stitch; the simplest way of
+working it is to work two back stitches at a short distance from
+each other over the same thread.</p>
+
+<p>The knotted stitch seen in ILLUSTRATION 74 is worked thus:--Take
+about four threads of the material on the needle, draw the needle
+half out, wind the cotton twice round the point of the needle, hold
+it tight with the thumb, draw the needle out carefully and insert
+it at the place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out at the
+place where the next stitch is to be worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_74"><img alt="Knotted Stitch." src=
+"images/image074.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_75"><img alt="Knotted Stitch" src=
+"images/image075.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The knotted stitch seen on ILLUSTRATION 75 is worked in nearly
+the same manner as the preceding one. Before drawing the cotton out
+of the material hold it tight with the left-hand thumb; leave the
+needle in the same position, wind the cotton twice round it, turn
+the needle from left to right, so (follow the direction of the
+arrow) that its point arrives where the cotton was drawn out
+(marked by a cross in illustration), insert the needle there, and
+draw it out at the place of the next stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_76"><img alt="Raised Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image076.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_88" id=
+"page_88">[88]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 76 &amp; 77.--Raised satin stitch is principally
+used for blossoms, flowers, leaves, letters, &amp;c.c. After having
+traced the outlines of the pattern, fill the space left between
+them with chain stitches in a direction different from that in
+which the pattern is to be embroidered; begin at the point of the
+leaf, working from right to left, make short straight stitches,
+always inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it
+out below. The leaves on the flowers, as well as on the branches,
+must be begun from the point, because they thus acquire a better
+shape. If you wish to work a leaf divided in the middle, as seen in
+illustration 77, you must trace the veining before you fill it with
+chain stitches, then begin at one point of the leaf and work first
+one half and then the other.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_77"><img alt="Raised Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image077.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_78"><img alt="Point de Plume." src=
+"images/image078.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 78 shows the so-called <em>point de plume</em> on a
+scalloped leaf. It is worked like the satin stitch, only the needle
+is drawn through the material in a slanting direction.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_79"><img alt="Point de Minute." src=
+"images/image079.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_89" id=
+"page_89">[89]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 79 (<em>Point de Minute</em>).--This stitch is
+often used instead of satin stitch when the patterns must appear
+raised. Wind the cotton several times round the point of the
+needle, which is inserted into the material half its length (the
+number of times the cotton is to be wound round the needle depends
+on the length of the pattern), hold fast the windings with the
+thumb of the left hand, draw the needle and the cotton through the
+windings, insert the needle into the material at the same place,
+and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to begin.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_80"><img alt="Ladder Stitch." src=
+"images/image080.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_81"><img alt="Ladder Stitch." src=
+"images/image081.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 80 &amp; 81 show the <em>ladder stitch</em>, often
+used in ornamental embroidery. Trace first the outlines as seen in
+illustrations; mark also the cross stitches between the outlines,
+so that the first touch the outlines only at both ends. The
+outlines are embroidered in overcast stitch or double overcast; the
+material is cut away underneath the ladder stitch between the
+outlines.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_90" id=
+"page_90">[90]</a></span>
+
+<p>We have now shown the different kinds of stitches used in
+embroidery; the following illustrations show them used for
+different patterns.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_82"><img alt="Button-hole Stitch Scallop."
+src="images/image082.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_83"><img alt="Button-hole Stitch Scallop."
+src="images/image083.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_84"><img alt="Button-hole Stitch Scallop."
+src="images/image084.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_85"><img alt="Button-hole Stitch Scallop."
+src="images/image085.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 82 TO 85 (<em>Different Button-hole Stitch
+Scallops</em>).--These scallops are prepared as above described.
+Take care to have the stitches even and regular; the scallops must
+be wide in the centre and very fine at both ends.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_91" id=
+"page_91">[91]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 86 &amp; 87 (<em>Button-holes and
+Eyelets</em>).--This kind of embroidery is used only in round or
+long patterns. Trace first the outline of the hole, cut away a
+small round piece of material, not too close to the outlines (when
+the button-hole is very small merely insert the point of the
+scissors or a stiletto into the material), fold the edge of the
+material back with the needle, and work the hole in overcast
+stitch, inserting the needle into the empty place in the centre and
+drawing it out under the outline. Some button-holes are worked
+separately; sometimes they are in a row; if so, take care to begin
+to work each button-hole at the place where it touches the next. In
+the following button-holes the outside must be traced double, so as
+to reach as far as the next one, but each button-hole is finished
+at once. Illustration 86 shows a button-hole worked round in
+button-hole stitch, 87 an eyelet-hole worked in overcast.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_86"><img alt="Button and Eyelet Holes." src=
+"images/image086.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_87"><img alt="Button and Eyelet Holes." src=
+"images/image087.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_92" id=
+"page_92">[92]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_88"><img alt="Shaded Button-hole." src=
+"images/image088.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_89"><img alt="Shaded Button-hole." src=
+"images/image089.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 88 &amp; 89.--Shaded button-holes are worked like
+the others, only they are prepared, as can be seen in illustration
+89, so as to mark the thickness. The stitches must gradually get
+narrower or wider, and be worked very close to each other.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_90"><img alt="Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch."
+src="images/image090.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 90 &amp; 91 (<em>Two Leaves in Raised Satin
+Stitch</em>).--In a leaf like the one seen in 90 work first the
+outline and veining in overcast stitch; work one half of the leaf
+in satin stitch, and the other half between the overcast outline
+and veining in back stitch. The stem of a leaf is always worked
+last.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_93" id=
+"page_93">[93]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_91"><img alt="Leaf in Raised Satin Stitch."
+src="images/image091.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_92"><img alt="Raised Leaf." src=
+"images/image092.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 92 &amp; 93 (<em>Two Leaves in Satin Stitch and
+Point de Plume</em>).--For leaves like the one seen in 93 begin
+with the veinings, then work the inner points, then the outer ones,
+and lastly the raised spots in the centre. The leaf seen in 92 is
+worked, one half in <em>point de plume</em>, the other half in back
+stitch or <em>point d'or</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_93"><img alt="Raised Leaf." src=
+"images/image093.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_94"><img alt="Leaf." src=
+"images/image094.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 94.--- The outline of this leaf is embroidered in
+overcast stitch; the open-work veining consists of eyelets; one
+half of the leaf is worked in back stitch, the other half in a kind
+of satin stitch worked without chain stitches underneath; <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">[94]</a></span>the
+stitches are worked across the leaf, leaving between two stitches
+an interval as wide as the stitch itself. The next row is then
+worked in these intervals, and each stitch begins half-way up the
+one before and after it.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_95"><img alt="Leaf Raised." src=
+"images/image095.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_96"><img alt="Leaf Raised." src=
+"images/image096.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_97"><img alt="Raised Leaf." src=
+"images/image097.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 95 to 97 (<em>Leaf in Raised
+Embroidery</em>).--This kind of embroidery is particularly
+beautiful, as it is worked separately and sewn on the material with
+an outline in very fine cotton, this produces the shade seen in 95
+(see also illustrations 98 to 113). For such leaves work first one
+half in overcast and satin stitch (illustration 96); the other half
+is worked on a separate piece of material (see illustration 97);
+cut away the material along the overcast outline, and fasten it on
+the foundation material along the outline which forms the veining
+on illustration 96.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_95" id=
+"page_95">[95]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_98"><img alt="Raised Embroidered Leaf." src=
+"images/image098.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_99"><img alt="Half of Leaf (98)." src=
+"images/image099.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_100"><img alt="Centre of Leaf (98)." src=
+"images/image100.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 98 TO 100 show a similar leaf; both halves are
+worked separately (see 99); the centre is worked in open lace
+stitch. The latter (see No. 100) is traced, then make ladder
+stitches across, work the outlines in overcast stitch, and cut away
+the material underneath the ladder stitch. The cross stitches are
+then worked in darning stitch with very fine cotton wherever two
+threads meet.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_101"><img alt="Blossom in Satin Stitch."
+src="images/image101.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 101 (<em>Blossom in Satin Stitch</em>).--The eyelet
+is worked in overcast stitch, then work the upper part of the
+blossom all in one piece as far as the beginning of the veining,
+thence the blossom is worked in two halves.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_96" id=
+"page_96">[96]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_102"><img alt="Blossom in Satin Stitch."
+src="images/image102.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_103"><img alt="Bead partly covered." src=
+"images/image103.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 102 &amp; 103 (<em>Blossom in Satin
+Stitch</em>).--The raised centre of this flower is formed by a
+bead, over which the embroidery is worked. When the leaves have
+been worked one after the other, place a bead in the centre, left
+free in such a manner that one hole lies on the material, and work
+over the bead by inserting the needle into its upper hole, then
+underneath the material, drawing it out above the material close to
+the bead, and so on (see 103).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_104"><img alt="Star in Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image104.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 104 (<em>Star Pattern in Satin Stitch</em>).--The
+centre, which forms a wheel, is worked first. Draw the threads
+across the circle <span class="newpage"><a name="page_97" id=
+"page_97">[97]</a></span> marked by an outline; in the centre they
+are wound round, always taking one thread <em>on the needle</em>
+and leaving the next thread <em>under the needle</em>, as can be
+seen in <a href="#image_121">122</a> on the half-finished pattern.
+The material underneath the wheel is only cut away when the rest of
+the pattern has been embroidered.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_105"><img alt="Star in Point de Reprise."
+src="images/image105.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 105 &amp; 106 (<em>Patterns in Back, Satin, and
+Ladder Stitches</em>).--The small star in the centre of No. 105 is
+worked in <em>point de reprise</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_106"><img alt="Star." src=
+"images/image106.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_107"><img alt="Flower in Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image107.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 107 (<em>Flower in Satin Stitch</em>).--The fine
+veinings are worked with fine black silk in <em>point russe</em>,
+which renders the effect of the flower very beautiful.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_108"><img alt="Rose in Satin Stitch." src=
+"images/image108.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_109"><img alt="Petal for Rose." src=
+"images/image109.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_98" id=
+"page_98">[98]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 108 &amp; 109 (<em>Rose in Satin
+Stitch</em>).--No. 109 shows one petal larger than full size. The
+outer circle only is prepared with chain stitches underneath, so as
+to appear raised; the inner circles are worked flat. The centre of
+the rose is embroidered in open work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_110"><img alt="Heartsease." src=
+"images/image110.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 110 (<em>Embroidered Heartsease</em>).--For the
+knotted stitch see No. <a href="#image_75">75</a>. for the
+<em>point crois&eacute;</em> see <a href="#image_71">71</a> and <a
+href="#image_72">72</a>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_111"><img alt="Raised Flower." src=
+"images/image111.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 111 (<em>Flower in Raised Satin Stitch</em>).</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_99" id=
+"page_99">[99]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_112"><img alt="Ear of Corn." src=
+"images/image112.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 112 (<em>An Ear of Corn in Point de
+Minute</em>).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_113"><img alt="Bluebell." src=
+"images/image113.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_114"><img alt="Inner part of Bluebell." src=
+"images/image114.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 113, 114, &amp; 116 (<em>Bluebell in Raised Satin
+Stitch</em>).--This flower is worked partly in separate pieces, as
+has <span class="newpage"><a name="page_100" id=
+"page_100">[100]</a></span>been described. Illustration 116 shows
+the raised part stretched out flat. When it is finished it is
+fastened down along the dotted line on No. 114, which shows the
+inner part of the flower.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_115"><img alt="Flower." src=
+"images/image115.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 115 (<em>Flower in Point de Minute</em>).--This
+stitch is here worked over a thick foundation of chain stitches.
+For raised patterns it looks very well.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_116"><img alt="Outer part of Bluebell." src=
+"images/image116.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_117"><img alt=
+"Flower appliqu&eacute;d on Net." src=
+"images/image117.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 116 &amp; 117 (<em>Flower worked in
+Appliqu&eacute;</em>).--To work in appliqu&eacute;, two materials,
+either similar or different, are needed. You can work either in
+appliqu&eacute; of muslin on muslin, or of muslin on net, or of net
+on net. Muslin on Brussels net is the prettiest way of working in
+appliqu&eacute;; we will therefore describe it: the other materials
+are worked in the same manner. <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_101" id="page_101">[101]</a></span>Trace the pattern on the
+muslin, fasten the latter on the net, and trace the outlines of the
+pattern with very small stitches work them in overcast stitch with
+very fine cotton, taking care not to pucker the material. The
+veinings are worked in overcast. When the pattern has been
+embroidered cut away the muslin round the outlines with sharp
+scissors, so that the net forms the grounding (see No. 117). The
+greatest care is required in cutting out the muslin to avoid
+touching the threads of the net.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_118"><img alt="Border." src=
+"images/image118.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 118 &amp; 119 (<em>Narrow Borders</em>).--It will
+be easy to work these borders from the above instructions. Observe
+only that on border 118 the outer row of scallops is worked first,
+then the button-hole stitch row, and the rest afterwards. The spots
+are edged all round in knotted stitch. The wheels in the centre of
+the eyelets of No. 119 are worked with very fine cotton in loose
+button-hole stitch; they are wound round with the cotton in a
+second row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_119"><img alt="Border." src=
+"images/image119.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_102" id=
+"page_102">[102]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_120"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image120.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 120 TO 122.--Three strips of insertion, which are
+worked nearly like the ladder stitch. For No. 120, in tracing the
+outlines, make two small knots at short distances by winding the
+cotton four times round the needle, as can be seen in illustration;
+the windings are held down with the thumb of the left hand, draw
+the needle through, and a knot is formed. The outlines are worked
+in button-hole stitch only when all the knots have been made, and
+then the material is cut away underneath. Illustration 121 is a
+variety of the slanting ladder stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 122.--The cross threads are worked in two rows in
+the common herring-bone stitch, as can be seen by the black lines
+on the illustration. The straight lines at the top and at the
+bottom are worked in double overcast; lastly, the wheels are worked
+in a row as described for the star pattern, No. 104.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_121"><img alt="121 and 122.Insertions" src=
+"images/image121and122.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_103" id=
+"page_103">[103]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_123"><img alt="123 to 126." src=
+"images/image123to126.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 123 To 129 (<em>Embroidered Initials</em>).--To
+learn to work initials the Roman characters are the easiest to
+begin with. They must be traced and prepared like other embroidery
+in satin stitch, only the chain stitches underneath must not be too
+thick: it would take away the shape of the letters. All depends on
+the fineness and regularity of the stitches; they must be worked in
+overcast stitch. Work from left to right, and the letter when
+completed must look rather like raised printing than like
+embroidery. Gothic letters are much more difficult to work on
+account of the many flourishes; it requires great practice in
+needlework to embroider them well.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 123.--The small black dots are worked in black silk
+on the thick parts of the letter: the fine strokes are covered with
+cross threads of black silk.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 124.--The outlines of the letter and the fine
+strokes are worked in black silk.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 125.--This letter is embroidered in raised satin
+stitch and <em>point de plume</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 126.--This letter is worked in back stitches, over
+which are worked at regular distances cross stitches of black
+silk.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 127.--Letter in satin and back stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration 128 to be worked in overcast and double
+overcast.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_104" id=
+"page_104">[104]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_127"><img alt="127 to 129." src=
+"images/image127to129.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 129.--Letter G in <em>point russe</em> with black
+silk.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_130"><img alt="130." src=
+"images/image130.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 130 (<em>Embroidered Figures</em>).--They are
+worked like the letters in <em>point de plume</em> and overcast;
+the dots are worked in knotted stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_105" id=
+"page_105">[105]</a></span>
+
+<h2>EMBROIDERY</h2>
+
+<a name="EMBROIDERY_PATTERNS"></a>
+<h3>EMBROIDERY PATTERNS</h3>
+
+<p>[In working the following Embroidery Patterns it will be found
+advisable to trace the design clearly upon tracing-paper with a
+sharp-pointed lead pencil. The pattern thus traced must be
+perforated with a fine needle in a succession of tiny holes, at the
+rate of about twenty to the inch. Those ladies who possess a
+sewing-machine will find no difficulty in accomplishing this.
+Several thicknesses of paper can be perforated at the same time, if
+required, by any ordinary machine. To transfer the traced and
+perforated design to the fabric to be embroidered, it is only
+necessary to rub a small quantity of powder blue through the
+holes.]</p>
+
+<p>131.--<em>Insertion in Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch and buttonhole
+stitch. The outlines must first be traced and the space filled up
+with chain stitches. To work a leaf, begin at the point, working
+from right to left, making short stitches, and always inserting the
+needle close above the outline and drawing it out below. The holes
+left for the ribbon to pass through are worked in plain button-hole
+stitch, the dots are worked in raised satin stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_106" id=
+"page_106">[106]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_131"><img alt="Insertion in Embroidery."
+src="images/image131.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>132.--<em>Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos.
+10 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>The veinings of this pretty insertion must be worked in overcast
+stitch (No. 68, <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>), the leaves and
+flowers in raised satin stitch, the scallops in button-hole stitch,
+and the outer edge of the leaves in back stitch (No. 70,
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) with No. 10 cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_132"><img alt=
+"Insertion in Embroidery and Stitching." src=
+"images/image132.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_107" id=
+"page_107">[107]</a></span>
+
+<p>133.--<em>Cravat End in Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24, or fine black China silk.</p>
+
+<p>This graceful design is worked in raised satin stitch (see Nos.
+<a href="#image_76">76</a> and <a href="#image_77">77</a>,
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) and back stitching, or point
+Russe. Black silk may be introduced at will, and the delicate
+leaves may be stitched in fine black silk, and the flowers
+embroidered in white, with the stamens in black silk.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_133"><img alt=
+"Embroidered Pattern for Cravat Ends, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image133.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>134.--<em>Basket Embroidered in Chenille</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: A basket of fine wicker-work; 1 skein of black
+chenille, and 3 of blue chenille.</p>
+
+<p>This small round basket measures seven inches across; it has a
+cover and two handles. The wicker is very delicately <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">[108]</a></span>plaited,
+and is ornamented with a pattern in chenille which is very easy to
+work. Upon the cover, work in point Russe one large star in blue
+chenille, with the centre and outer circle in black. All round,
+work small stars in blue chenille, with a black stitch in the
+centre. The position of these stars is shown in our illustration.
+The basket requires no mounting; it is not even lined.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_134"><img alt=
+"Basket Embroidered in Chenille." src=
+"images/image134.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_109" id=
+"page_109">[109]</a></span>
+
+<p>135.--<em>Pattern for Collars and Cuffs in Embroidery.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin, cambric or lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s embroidery cotton perfectionn&eacute; No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>Work the outer circle in long even scallops (see page <a href=
+"#page_90">90</a> of <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) in raised
+button-hole stitch; the spray of flowers is embroidered in raised
+satin stitch, the leaves in the same, and the rosebud calyx in tiny
+eyelet-holes. The centres of the roses are embroidered in
+open-work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_135"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image135.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>136.--<em>Cravat End in Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin, Brussels net; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<p>Tack the traced muslin over the net and work the scallop of the
+inner edge; next the design in the centre must be worked in raised
+satin stitch (see No. <a href="#image_77">77</a> in <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>). The raised dots are also worked in satin stitch
+(see page <a href="#page_90">90</a> of <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>). Lastly, work the outer edging of round scallops
+and the lines of raised dots, and with a pair of embroidery
+scissors carefully cut away the muslin from the outer edge and from
+the leaves of the centre pattern.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_110" id=
+"page_110">[110]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_136"><img alt="Cravat End in Embroidery."
+src="images/image136.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_111" id=
+"page_111">[111]</a></span>
+
+<p>137.--<em>Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs,
+&amp;c</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s cotton
+perfectionn&eacute; No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty star should be worked in fine overcast stitch (see
+No. <a href="#image_68">68</a> in <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>). The centre is worked in raised satin stitch
+leaves round a circle of button-hole stitch, in the middle of which
+a wheel is worked thus:--Slip the cotton under the thick edge and
+fasten it, then cross it over and back so as to make 8 bars, then
+twist the cotton twice round 1 bar; this will bring it to the
+centre; work over and under each of the bars until a thick dot is
+formed; fasten the cotton beneath this, and twist it twice round
+the bar opposite to the first one you worked, and finish off.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_137"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Collars, Cuffs, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image137.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>138.--<em>Embroidery Covering for a Quilted
+Counterpane</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Cashmere, cambric muslin, or linen; Messrs. Walter
+Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 4.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_112" id=
+"page_112">[112]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_113" id="page_113">[113]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_138"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Covering for a Quilted Counterpane." src=
+"images/image138.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_114" id=
+"page_114">[114]</a></span>
+
+<p>This is an embroidery-pattern for a woollen or silk quilted
+counterpane. Such counterpanes generally have a lining which is
+turned back on the right side, and buttoned down at the point of
+each scallop. The pattern is a quilted counterpane of scarlet
+cashmere; the lining is of fine linen. Before embroidering it, make
+the points for the corners. The embroidery is worked in button-hole
+stitch, overcast, satin, and ladder stitch. It can also be worked
+on fine cambric or muslin, and then the embroidered pattern sewn on
+the piece of linen which forms the cover on the wrong side. Make
+the button-holes as seen on illustration, and sew on
+mother-of-pearl or china buttons.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_139"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Cravat Ends, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image139.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>139.--<em>Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Collars, Cuffs,
+&amp;c</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin, cambric, or linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked in satin stitch, point Russe, and point
+d'or on muslin, cambric, or linen; it is suitable for collars, or
+cravat ends, or handkerchief corners.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_115" id=
+"page_115">[115]</a></span>
+
+<p>140.--<em>Handkerchief in Embroidery</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 50.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_140"><img alt="Handkerchief in Embroidery."
+src="images/image140.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Three rows of hem-stitching ornament this handkerchief; the
+pattern forms an insertion within the outer rows, the flowers are
+worked in <span class="newpage"><a name="page_116" id=
+"page_116">[116]</a></span> raised satin stitch, with eyelet-hole
+centres (see No. <a href="#image_87">87</a> of <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>); the tendrils are worked in overcast stitch;
+three rows of raised dots, in groups of four, are worked on the
+inner side of the last row of hem-stitching. This pattern looks
+very handsome on a broad-hemmed handkerchief.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>141.--<em>Convolvulus Leaf Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 20.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_141"><img alt="Convolvulus Leaf Insertion."
+src="images/image141.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The convolvulus leaves are worked in raised satin stitch, the
+veinings and stems in overcast stitch, the eyelet-holes in slanting
+overcast stitch. (See No. <a href="#image_69">69</a> of
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.)</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>142.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 20.</p>
+
+<p>This simple insertion is worked in raised satin stitch, the
+stems alone excepted; these are embroidered in overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_117" id=
+"page_117">[117]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_142"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image142.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>143 and 144.--<em>Two Patterns in Embroidery for Trimming
+Lingerie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+20, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_143"><img alt=
+"Patterns for Trimming Lingerie." src=
+"images/image143and144.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These patterns are worked in point Russe and stitching; the
+spots in satin and knotted stitch. Illustration 143 is ornamented
+in the centre with lace stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_118" id=
+"page_118">[118]</a></span>
+
+<p>145 <em>and</em> 146.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>The two insertions, Nos. 145 and 146, are worked partly in satin
+stitch, partly in open-work embroidery, and are edged on either
+side with an open-work hem.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_145"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image145.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_146"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image146.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>147.--<em>Couvrette in Appliqu&eacute; Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Net, fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>The pattern must be traced on the muslin, which should be tacked
+on the net. The outline of the design must be traced with very
+small stitches, and worked in overcast stitches, as are also the
+veinings; the dots are worked in raised satin stitch; the border is
+embroidered with satin stitch flowers and scallop button-hole
+stitch. To work appliqu&eacute; on net, see No. <a href=
+"#image_117">117</a> of <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_119" id=
+"page_119">[119]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_147"><img alt=
+"Couvrette in Appliqu&eacute; Embroidery." src=
+"images/image147.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_120" id=
+"page_120">[120]</a></span>
+
+<p>148.--<em>Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet
+Mat</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials for Pincushion: Jaconet muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16. For toilet mat: White
+piqu&eacute;; cotton No. 12.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_148"><img alt=
+"Wreath for centre of Pincushion or Toilet Mat." src=
+"images/image148.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The leaves and flowers are worked in satin stitch; the
+eyelet-holes and stems in overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_121" id=
+"page_121">[121]</a></span>
+
+<p>149.--<em>Corner for Handkerchief In Point Russe</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: French cambric, fine China black sewing-silk, or
+filoselle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_149"><img alt=
+"Corner for Handkerchief in Point Russe." src=
+"images/image149.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Point Russe stitch is made by a succession of back stitches.
+These stitches carefully follow every line of the design, and are
+worked in black China sewing-silk or filoselle. The pattern should
+be repeated at each corner of the handkerchief.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_122" id=
+"page_122">[122]</a></span>
+
+<p>150 <em>to</em> 152.--<em>Borders and
+Insertions</em>.--<em>White Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Lawn; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 30, and Mecklenburg thread No. 50; fine black
+sewing-silk.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_150"><img alt="Embroidered Border." src=
+"images/image150.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For the border No. 150, trace first the outlines of the scallop,
+then draw the threads which are to form the wheel in each scallop
+(take for this fine Mecklenburg thread, for the rest embroidery
+cotton), fasten them at the places where they cross each other, and
+work at these places small and large spots in satin stitch. Then
+work the scallops in button-hole stitch; edge each larger spot with
+button-hole stitch all round, and make a row of button-hole
+stitches for the upper edge of the border, and above this a row of
+herring-bone stitches. The material is cut away underneath the
+wheels.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_151"><img alt="Corner in Embroidery." src=
+"images/image151.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_152"><img alt="Corner in Embroidery." src=
+"images/image152.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The corner borders, illustrations 151 and 152, are worked in
+point Russe, chain and satin stitch, with fine black sewing
+silk.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_123" id=
+"page_123">[123]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_153"><img alt="Cravat End in Embroidery"
+src="images/image153.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_124" id=
+"page_124">[124]</a></span>
+
+<p>153.--<em>Muslin Cravat</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 50; No. 40 for the edges.</p>
+
+<p>This cravat is worked on fine muslin, embroidered upon both ends
+in raised satin stitch; the scalloped edge is worked in button-hole
+stitch; the bouquet in the centre is worked in appliqu&eacute;
+satin stitch--that is, the leaves of the rose and the foliage are
+worked separately on muslin; they are then cut out and worked in
+appliqu&eacute; (see Nos. <a href="#image_113">113</a> and <a href=
+"#image_116">116</a>, <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) upon the
+cravat, as seen in the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>154.--<em>Sandwich Case</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Strip of grey kid; strip of oil silk; 1 skein black
+silk; 1 skein red purse silk; 1 hank steel beads; steel button.</p>
+
+<p>This case will be found very useful on the occasion of a journey
+or picnic, as it can be carried in the pocket without any
+inconvenience.</p>
+
+<p>The case is made of a strip of grey kid, scalloped out at the
+edges. The words "Bon appetit," or "Good appetite," at will, are
+worked over it in overcast with black purse silk and steel beads,
+the scroll pattern in chain stitch with red silk. The back and
+front of the case are formed of the same strip, which is lined with
+oilskin, and to which narrow side-pieces are added to form the
+pocket. These pieces are lined and scalloped out in the same way as
+the back and front, and then the scallops of both sides are joined
+together, and worked round in button-hole stitch with purse
+silk.</p>
+
+<p>The case is fastened down with a steel button.</p>
+
+<p>If another colour is preferred, the sandwich case can be made of
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_125" id=
+"page_125">[125]</a></span>brown kid. The scroll pattern should
+then be worked in rich blue purse silk, and gold beads used for the
+letters, which should be embroidered as before in black silk. The
+edge may be worked in double overcast stitch in blue or black silk.
+A gold button must replace the steel when this alteration of colour
+is made.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_154"><img alt="Sandwich Case." src=
+"images/image154.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_126" id=
+"page_126">[126]</a></span>
+
+<p>155.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is worked in raised satin stitch between two rows
+of hem-stitching; a small eyelet-hole is worked in the centre of
+each flower.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_155"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image155.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>156.--<em>Cravat End in Raised Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s. embroidery cotton
+Nos. 50 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is a muslin cravat 32 inches long. The greater part
+of the embroidered ends is worked in satin stitch; the leaves in
+the bouquet of the centre are worked in raised embroidery. (See
+Nos. <a href="#image_113">113</a> and <a href="#image_116">116</a>,
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.)</p>
+
+<p>The dotted lines are raised by taking four threads of the muslin
+on the needle, draw it half out, wind the cotton twice round the
+point, holding it tightly under the thumb, draw the needle out and
+insert it at the place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out
+where the next stitch is to be worked.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_127" id=
+"page_127">[127]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_156"><img alt=
+"Cravat End in Raised Embroidery." src=
+"images/image156.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_128" id=
+"page_128">[128]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>157.--<em>Lady's Purse</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Russia leather; blue silk; black purse silk; blue
+silk soutache; fine gold braid; and gold thread.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_157"><img alt="Lady's Purse." src=
+"images/image157.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This purse is embroidered upon Russia leather; an oval-shaped
+medallion is cut out in the centre; a piece of blue silk is gummed
+on under the leather so as to show within the oval; both leather
+and silk are then lined with calico and stretched upon a small
+embroidery frame. The front and back of the purse are made all of
+one piece, the centre of which is the bottom; after the embroidery
+is completed a piece of leather is added on each side to give the
+necessary fullness. Four flowrets are worked over the blue silk,
+with black purse silk, in raised satin stitch, with a dot in gold
+thread for the centre. The stems are black and the leaflets gold.
+The inner border round the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_129"
+id="page_129">[129]</a></span>oval medallion is worked in gold
+braid, and the outer one in blue soutache. The network upon the
+leather is formed of threads of black purse silk, fastened at every
+crossing with a stitch of gold thread; the outer border round this
+network is formed entirely of gold braid. On the opposite side of
+the purse initials may be worked in black and gold, over the blue
+silk oval medallion.</p>
+
+<p>The purse is lined with brown watered silk, and mounted with a
+clasp of gilt steel.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>158.--<em>Table-Napkin Ring</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Crimson cashmere; <em>toile cir&eacute;e</em>; 1 reel
+each of white, black, green, blue, and yellow Chinese silk.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_158"><img alt="Table-Napkin Ring" src=
+"images/image158.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Stretch a strip of cashmere of a bright shade of crimson over a
+piece of <em>toile cir&eacute;e</em>, and work the pattern over it
+in point Russe with fine silk. The outer borders have white and
+black outlines, and leaflets of green silk. The stars have black
+and blue outlines, a yellow cross and dots. The figure between the
+stars is black and yellow.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_130" id=
+"page_130">[130]</a></span>
+
+<p>159 <em>and</em> 160.--<em>Knife Basket</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey American cloth; red cloth; black jet beads and
+bugles; red worsted braid, three-quarters of an inch wide; some
+strong wire; a cigar-box.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_159"><img alt="Knife Basket." src=
+"images/image159.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This basket is meant for holding dessert knives. It consists of
+a common cigar-box nine inches and two-fifths long, five inches and
+four-fifths wide, and two inches and one-fifth high, covered inside
+and out with grey American cloth, which is ornamented with
+embroidery worked in appliqu&eacute;. The seams are made in
+overcast stitch. The feet consist of four pieces of strong wire
+three inches and two-fifths long. These pieces of wire are first
+covered with wool, and then with jet beads; they are then bent into
+loops, and fastened on at the bottom of the box by means of holes
+bored into it for that purpose. The feet must be <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_131" id="page_131">[131]</a></span>
+fastened before covering the inside of the box. The inside of the
+basket is ornamented with an embroidered pattern in
+appliqu&eacute;, which must also be worked before covering the box.
+The leaves are made of red cloth, the stems and veinings of black
+bugles. No. 160 shows the pattern in full size; the flowers and
+leaves are edged with light grey purse silk, over which small
+stitches in black silk are fastened at regular intervals. Inside
+the box fasten a deal board covered on both sides with American
+cloth, so as to divide the basket into two compartments, and fasten
+on to this board a handle consisting of a piece of wire seven
+inches long, wound round with beads. The basket is ornamented with
+ruches of red worsted braid; between two box pleats of the ruche a
+black bugle is fastened.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_160"><img alt="Knife Basket." src=
+"images/image160.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_132" id=
+"page_132">[132]</a></span>
+
+<p>161.--<em>Satin Stitch Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Purse silk of two colours, in 4 shades of green and 4
+shades of red or magenta for the flowers, gold twist.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_161"><img alt="Fuchsia Spray." src=
+"images/image161.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This branch is embroidered with purse silk of the natural
+colours of the flowers and leaves, or in different shades of one
+colour, on silk canvas. Fuchsia blossoms are here designed, and
+should be worked in raised embroidery; the stamens to be worked in
+gold twist.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_133" id=
+"page_133">[133]</a></span>
+
+<p>162.--<em>Acacia Spray in Raised Satin Stitch
+Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Four shades of green purse silk for the leaves; 1
+skein of brown silk; 3 shades of white or gold silk for the
+flowers.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_162"><img alt="Acacia Spray." src=
+"images/image162.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This spray of acacia is worked in raised satin stitch
+embroidery; the flowers should be carefully shaded, and the
+veinings should be worked before the leaves are embroidered. The
+flowers may be worked gold colour, or imitate the white acacia
+blossom.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_134" id=
+"page_134">[134]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_163"><img alt="Tobacco Pouch." src=
+"images/image163.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_135" id=
+"page_135">[135]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_164"><img alt="Tobacco Pouch." src=
+"images/image164.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_136" id=
+"page_136">[136]</a></span>
+
+<p>163 <em>and</em> 164.--<em>Tobacco Pouch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine crimson cloth; bits of coloured and white cloth
+for the pattern; purse silk of various colours; white kid; brass
+rings; gimp cord; and silk tassels.</p>
+
+<p>This pouch is cut in four pieces, two of which are given in full
+size; the two others must be worked after the same patterns. These
+patterns represent the attributes of a lover of tobacco; they are
+cut out of cloth and worked in appliqu&eacute; over crimson
+cloth.</p>
+
+<p>In No. 163 the outer chain stitch border is green. The knot from
+which the different articles are suspended is black, the cigar-case
+yellow in cloth appliqu&eacute;, the cigars brown in satin stitch.
+The case is crossed by two rows of chain stitch in blue silk, and
+edged all round with button-hole stitch, also blue. The two pipes
+are of white cloth, edged round with yellow silk; the shade is
+imitated by long stitches of grey silk. The upper part of the pouch
+is of blue cloth, with a white silk edging and yellow dots; the
+under part of brown cloth with a black edging and a pattern worked
+in chain stitch with white; the three tassels are embroidered with
+black and yellow silk.</p>
+
+<p>In No. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the
+small pattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the
+pipes of white cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. The
+bundle of cigars is of brown cloth, shaded with black silk
+stitches, and fastened on with double rows of chain stitch in
+yellow silk. The cigar-case is of light green cloth, edged with
+white; the Grecian pattern and dots are embroidered over it with
+white silk also.</p>
+
+<p>To make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them
+together by seams, which are hidden under yellow <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_137" id="page_137">[137]</a></span>
+soutache; cut out also and join in the same way four pieces of
+white kid for the lining, and fasten it on to the crimson cloth at
+the top only. Sew small brass rings round the top, and pass a
+double piece of crimson silk cord through them. Add silk tassels of
+various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each of its four
+corners.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>165.--<em>Insertion</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_165"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image165.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat
+trimmings. It is worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in
+overcast stitch; the circles can be filled up with lace stitches or
+with wheels, or the pattern may be worked upon Brussels net and the
+linen cut away.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_138" id=
+"page_138">[138]</a></span>
+
+<p>166.--<em>Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks,
+Workbaskets, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glac&eacute;
+silk; gold beads.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked in French embroidery and point Russe,
+with coloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. The thimble, cotton,
+and ribbon are worked in appliqu&eacute; with glac&eacute; silk.
+The colours are chosen according to personal taste. The thimble is
+ornamented with small gold beads. A bead is placed in the centre of
+each pair of scissors to imitate the screw.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_166"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Needlebook, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image166.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_139" id=
+"page_139">[139]</a></span>
+
+<p>167.--<em>Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks,
+&amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads.</p>
+
+<p>The shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers
+in point Russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double
+overcast; the interior is filled with a netting worked in chain
+stitch or dotted stitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and
+beads; the ribbon is embroidered in appliqu&eacute;, with a
+contrasting shade of silk ribbon.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_167"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Needlebook, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image167.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_140" id=
+"page_140">[140]</a></span>
+
+<p>168 <em>and</em> 169.--<em>Travelling Bag</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 20 inches of Java canvas; single Berlin wool of 2
+shades of a pretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white;
+floss silk--white, brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse
+silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue, and grey; steel beads; brown
+silk fancy braid.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_168"><img alt="Travelling Bag." src=
+"images/image168.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it
+is very prettily worked. Besides the engraving showing the bag when
+completed, the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. This
+bouquet is also worked upon the Java canvas. For each petal the
+white wool is passed several times from one stitch of the canvas to
+another till the required thickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is
+worked at the point with white silk. The centres are filled up in
+point d'or with 2 shades of yellow silk. <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_141" id="page_141">[141]</a></span>The buds are made
+like the petals, but with 3 stitches of white silk at the point
+instead of 1. The leaves are worked in 2 shades of green wool with
+1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems are embroidered in
+overcast with light brown wool. The scroll-pattern border round the
+bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steel beads.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_169"><img alt="Bouquet for Travelling Bag."
+src="images/image169.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_142" id=
+"page_142">[142]</a></span>
+
+<p>The remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured
+purse silk. The 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk,
+by inserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas.
+When you have worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the
+other, work on either side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines
+of yellow silk, which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the
+Java canvas being covered by each stitch. Next to the inner yellow
+outline comes a border worked over two strips of the canvas, in
+slanting stitches; this border is alternately blue in one square
+and grey in the other. A star is embroidered in point Russe in the
+centre of each square; it is grey in the blue squares and blue in
+the grey; a steel bead is placed in the middle of each star. The
+small crosses between the squares are worked in cerise. The outer
+border of the work is composed of a piece of black soutache, edged
+with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. The front and back
+pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. The side pieces
+are made of plain Java canvas. The embroidered part measures 14
+inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined
+with <span class="newpage"><a name="page_143" id=
+"page_143">[143]</a></span> light brown silk, and made up with a
+steel clasp.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>170.--<em>Embroidery Trimming for Muslin Bodices</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine muslin; fine black silk; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a
+trimming. It is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked
+in button-hole stitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered
+with loose <span class="newpage"><a name="page_144" id=
+"page_144">[144]</a></span> button-hole stitch in black silk. The
+feather-like branches are worked likewise in black silk in
+herringbone stitch. The white spots are worked in raised
+embroidery. The large oval openings through which a narrow ribbon
+velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches:</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_170"><img alt="Trimming for Bodices." src=
+"images/image170.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>171, 172, <em>and</em> 173--<em>Toilet Cushion Cover in White
+Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin;
+if lined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. The
+patterns, which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked
+in point d'or; the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine
+double overcast. The flower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear
+raised on illustration on account of the dark shadows, are worked
+separately and sewn on at the corresponding places. No. 172 shows
+the wing of a bird, No. 173 a rose-leaf somewhat increased in size;
+the former is worked entirely in button-hole stitch, or trimmed
+with a ruche of coloured ribbon. This pattern may also be worked on
+glac&eacute; silk with purse silk.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_145" id=
+"page_145">[145]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_171"><img alt=
+"Wing of Bird,Rose Leaf,Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery."
+src="images/image171.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_146" id=
+"page_146">[146]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_174"><img alt="Pattern for Glove Box." src=
+"images/image174.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>174 <em>and</em> 175.--<em>Glove Box</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 15 inches of French blue cashmere; silks of various
+colours. A shape in bamboo cane, painted brown and varnished.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_175"><img alt="Glove Box." src=
+"images/image175.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_147" id=
+"page_147">[147]</a></span>
+
+<p>The ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. It is
+embroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. Part of
+the embroidery pattern is given in full size. All the outlines are
+worked in overcast, the stitches being made rather long and
+slanting, and the small leaves are each composed of one stitch, as
+in point Russe. The leaves are alternately red and yellow upon a
+green stem; the scalloped outline which has no leaves is red. The
+pine patterns are worked in satin stitch--the centre one is green,
+edged with red; the side ones are pink, edged with red; the small
+wing-like figures are black, edged with maize; the diamond, maize,
+edged with black, with an outer rim of maize. In the round pattern
+the centre is pink; the edge red, with red and yellow leaves; the 3
+outer circles are successively white, green, and <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_148" id="page_148">[148]</a></span> red; at
+the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow, the
+side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green.</p>
+
+<p>The strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk,
+slipped through the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined
+together at the side by a seam. The cover is lined with plain blue
+cashmere, upon which initials might be embroidered at discretion.
+The four corners are ornamented with pretty silk tassels, of
+colours to match with the embroidery. To fasten the box, sew on a
+blue ribbon to the cover, and one to the box.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>176 <em>and</em> 177.--<em>Hanging Letter Case</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and
+fine gold bouillon.</p>
+
+<p>No. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size,
+No. 177 the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full
+size.</p>
+
+<p>The letter case is composed of two parts. The larger part is 11
+inches long, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with
+a pattern in gold soutache, and the word LETTERS or LETTRES
+embroidered in gold bouillon; underneath there is a pattern
+embroidered in oval white satin beads, edged round with fine white
+chenille; the scroll pattern is embroidered in gold bouillon.</p>
+
+<p>The second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and
+forms the pocket which contains the letters. The centre flower is
+composed of 11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another
+white bead is placed in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon.
+The other flowers are also composed of white satin beads, edged
+with gold bouillon.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_149" id=
+"page_149">[149]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_176"><img alt="Hanging Letter Case." src=
+"images/image176.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_150" id=
+"page_150">[150]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_177"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Embroidered Letter Case." src=
+"images/image177.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_151" id=
+"page_151">[151]</a></span>
+
+<p>178.--<em>Embroidered Edging</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 24</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_178"><img alt="Embroidered Edging." src=
+"images/image178.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This edging is worked in broderie Anglaise or overcast stitch;
+the edge in scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in
+raised satin <span class="newpage"><a name="page_152" id=
+"page_152">[152]</a></span> stitch. The stems are worked in
+slanting overcast stitch (No. 122, <em>Embroidery
+Instructions</em>).</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>179.--<em>Border in Oriental Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright
+red, 2 shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_179"><img alt=
+"Border in Oriental Embroidery." src=
+"images/image179.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting
+colours. These ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. The
+outer row of the first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright
+red. Following the same arrangement, the second oval is of two
+shades of green; the third of two shades of blue; and the fourth of
+two shades of yellow. The knotted stitch in the centre is violet.
+The dots outside the ovals are worked in satin stitch, and are
+alternately red, yellow, violet, and blue. The stems are long
+stitches of black silk. The arabesque patterns between those formed
+of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silk <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_153" id="page_153">[153]</a></span> of two
+shades of brown. The colours of the ovals may be varied as much as
+you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns should
+remain the same for the whole of the border.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>180 <em>and</em> 181.--<em>Embroidery Stars</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery
+cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>These stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen
+collars and cuffs. No. 180 is worked in successive rows of
+back-stitching, round an open wheel; ladder stitch (see No. <a
+href="#image_81">81</a>, <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>) is
+worked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms
+the edge.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_180"><img alt="Embroidery Star." src=
+"images/image180.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_181"><img alt="Embroidery Star." src=
+"images/image181.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the
+star is filled with lace wheels.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>182 <em>and</em> 183.--<em>Key Bag</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glac&eacute;
+silk; purse silk of 5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and
+silver-grey, scarlet, and white; grey silk cord; grey glac&eacute;
+silk ribbon.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_154" id=
+"page_154">[154]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_182"><img alt="Key Bag." src=
+"images/image182.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_155" id=
+"page_155">[155]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_183"><img alt="Key Bag." src=
+"images/image183.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. The
+embroidery imitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves,
+and stems, in the upper part of which sits an owl, "the bird of
+night." <span class="newpage"><a name="page_156" id=
+"page_156">[156]</a></span> The poppies are worked with blue-green
+purse silk in 5 shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown
+silk of 4 shades in satin stitch, the colours blending one into the
+other, as can be clearly seen in illustration No. 182. The eyes of
+the owl are embroidered in scarlet and white silk. Illustration No.
+183 shows the other side of the bag, which is ornamented with
+steel-coloured silk appliqu&eacute; figures, in the form of a
+Gothic lock. They are edged with fine grey silk cord. The screws of
+the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery with silver-grey
+silk. After having lined each part, join the two halves of the bag
+with a border of grey glac&eacute; silk ribbon, which must, of
+course, continue round the revers. The bag is fastened by means of
+a loop and steel button.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>184 <em>and</em> 185--- <em>Embroidery Patterns for Trimming
+Cravats, Bodices, Morning Caps, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_184"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image184.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Materials: Muslin or cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No.
+24 for lingerie, No. 12 for couvrettes.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_157" id=
+"page_157">[157]</a></span>
+
+<p>These patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for
+trimming various articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares
+they make pretty covers. They can also be embroidered with coloured
+silk, wool, or thread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming
+couvrettes and toilet pincushions. The patterns should be
+embroidered in satin stitch and edged with chain stitch; they can
+also be worked in button-hole stitch. When the pattern is worked on
+woollen material this material must be cut away inside the leaves
+and spots.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_185"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image185.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>186 <em>and</em> 187.--<em>Pen-Wiper in Cloth
+Appliqu&eacute;</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small
+white, and 4 red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of
+cloth; small black beads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory
+handle or figure.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of
+cloth. No. 187 is one of these circles seen in full size. There are
+4 white and 4 red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. In
+the centre of each red circle place a white, and in the centre of
+each white circle a red <span class="newpage"><a name="page_158"
+id="page_158">[158]</a></span> star, and work a cross over it with
+small round black beads. The border, in herring-bone stitch, is
+worked with gold-coloured purse silk on the red, and with black on
+the white cloth. The centre of the pen-wiper is covered with a
+circle of white cloth larger than the side ones, worked in point
+Russe and point Mexico in black silk. When all the circles are
+prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth, placing
+alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, and
+between each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the
+edge. The work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined
+with black <span class="newpage"><a name="page_159" id=
+"page_159">[159]</a></span> glazed calico, and a small handle of
+carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in the centre. The
+circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_186"><img alt="Pen-wiper in Embroidery."
+src="images/image186.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_187"><img alt=
+"Full-sized Circle for Pen-wiper." src=
+"images/image187.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>188.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_188"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image188.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin
+stitch round an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the
+stars are worked in point Russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which
+surround each flower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished
+with a row of hem-stitching on each side.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>189.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 24.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch;
+the dots and stems should be worked first, and the leaves
+afterwards. It is edged on both sides with a row of
+hem-stitching.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_160" id=
+"page_160">[160]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_189"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image189.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>190.--<em>Cigar Case</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk;
+gold thread.</p>
+
+<p>The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light
+brown Russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in
+well-raised satin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter
+outlines shown in the illustration are worked in gold thread. The
+border to be worked in fine silk cord of the same colour as the
+leather, with a network of black purse silk, stitched with gold at
+all the crossings. On the opposite side of the cigar case initials
+may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fine
+leather, and the mountings gilt or steel.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_161" id=
+"page_161">[161]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_190"><img alt="Cigar case" src=
+"images/image190.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_162" id=
+"page_162">[162]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>191.--<em>Wicker Waste Paper Basket</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth
+fringe; and glazed calico.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_191"><img alt="Waste Paper Basket." src=
+"images/image191.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern.
+It rests upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can
+be made by any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room.
+The trimming consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed
+calico, and put on round the edge; the lower part of the border is
+trimmed with a woollen <span class="newpage"><a name="page_163" id=
+"page_163">[163]</a></span> fringe. The shades selected should
+correspond with the prevailing colour of the room.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_192"><img alt="Insertion." src=
+"images/image192.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>192.--<em>Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_164" id="page_164">[164]</a></span>
+stitch, and embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted
+line is worked in raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers
+which compose the centre wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in
+overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_193"><img alt="Embroidered Linen Collar."
+src="images/image193.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>193 <em>and</em> 194.--<em>Embroidered Linen Collars</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+embroidery cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_165" id="page_165">[165]</a></span>
+No. 194 is worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see
+Nos. 81, 82, 76, and 73 of <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>), and
+point d'or with white cotton, and point Russe with black silk. No.
+193 is worked entirely with white cotton in button-hole, satin,
+knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (See Nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and
+68 of <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.)</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_194"><img alt="Embroidered Linen Collar."
+src="images/image194.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_166" id=
+"page_166">[166]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_195"><img alt=
+"What-not in the Shape of a Hammock." src=
+"images/image195.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>195 <em>and</em> 196.--<em>What-not</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades
+of green floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of
+yellow floss silk; green chenille; cord and tassels.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_167" id=
+"page_167">[167]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_196"><img alt=
+"Pattern for What-not (full size)." src=
+"images/image196.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant
+to place upon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when
+completed, No. 196 one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size;
+it is worked upon fine <span class="newpage"><a name="page_168" id=
+"page_168">[168]</a></span> canvas. The violets are in floss silk
+of three shades of violet, with a raised spot worked in yellow silk
+in the centre, the leaves are worked in Berlin wool of various
+shades of green, and the stems in overcast of a light green shade.
+The pattern is grounded in tent stitch with sea-green silk. The
+hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece cut out in
+cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined and
+quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top
+with green chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the
+hammock is fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off
+with tassels.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>197.--<em>Embroidered Handkerchief</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.</p>
+
+<p>This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a
+handkerchief, which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn.
+The design is simple, but effective, and very easy to work. If
+worked on fine French cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly
+tacked upon <em>toile cir&eacute;e</em>. The rows of raised dots
+should be worked first, and then the graceful branches of pointed
+leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots might be worked in
+bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. To produce a
+good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40 will
+be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourning
+wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or
+the leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in
+filoselle.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_169" id=
+"page_169">[169]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_197"><img alt="Handkerchief Border." src=
+"images/image197.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_170" id=
+"page_170">[170]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>198 <em>and</em> 199.--<em>Two Medallions for a Purse in
+Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold
+silk; steel or gold clasp.</p>
+
+<p>These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may
+be employed on a variety of articles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_198"><img alt=
+"Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery." src=
+"images/image198.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_199"><img alt=
+"Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery." src=
+"images/image199.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in
+satin <span class="newpage"><a name="page_171" id=
+"page_171">[171]</a></span> stitch, the branched sprays in point
+Russe in scarlet and gold, the four largest being in scarlet and
+the intermediate sprays in gold silk. Medallion No. 199 is worked
+entirely in point Russe, and may be embroidered in one colour, or
+in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, or scarlet and
+black.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>200.--<em>Work-Bag</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different
+colours; embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red
+silk braid; red cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of
+light-coloured leather.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_200"><img alt="Work Bag." src=
+"images/image200.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The
+outside consists of drab cloth, trimmed with appliqu&eacute;
+embroidery. The inside of the bag is slightly wadded and lined with
+red satin, which is quilted in diamonds. The seams are covered with
+red braid, and a leather strap completes the whole. Cut out a good
+pattern in paper, and then cut the <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_172" id="page_172">[172]</a></span> satin and wadding and the
+drab cloth which forms the outside. After having traced the pattern
+on the cloth, work it with small pieces of coloured cloth in
+appliqu&eacute; embroidery. The different figures are sewn over the
+centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches, with
+embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in
+chain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a
+pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge
+must be bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed
+in. The ends of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the
+inside is wadded and lined with red satin; the outside worked in
+appliqu&eacute; embroidery like the rest of the bag. All the seams
+are covered with red silk cord. The straps are fastened with a few
+stitches, as seen in the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>201 <em>to</em> 203.--<em>Pattern for Braces</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_201"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Braces (full size)." src=
+"images/image201.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico
+ornamented with embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on
+either side with <span class="newpage"><a name="page_173" id=
+"page_173">[173]</a></span> loose button-hole stitch and crochet
+vandykes in red wool. Illustration 201 shows part of the
+embroidered braces, full size. Work first the embroidery of the
+braces, then line them with calico; work loose button-hole stitch
+and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the cross bands as well as
+at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on the tabs for the
+braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter are then edged
+with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. The vandykes are
+worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole stitch, * 1
+purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next button-hole
+stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole stitch,
+repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red
+button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No.
+203 shows another <span class="newpage"><a name="page_174" id=
+"page_174">[174]</a></span> way of working these braces on fine
+ribbed piqu&eacute;. Work any Berlin wool work pattern in the
+common cross stitch over the ribs of the piqu&eacute;. For the
+vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double
+divided by 3 chain stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_202"><img alt="Embroidered Braces." src=
+"images/image202.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_203"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Braces (Full size)." src=
+"images/image203.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>204.--<em>Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and
+silver brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and
+gold thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre.
+The dark patterns are worked in appliqu&eacute; with black velvet,
+the two other shades in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is
+worked in satin stitch with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of
+the same material. The border can also be worked upon the material
+for the centre if it is not intended to contrast with it. The
+pattern can also be worked entirely in silk with satin stitch. The
+size of the border may, of course, be increased if desired, but the
+third pattern in the darkest shade must, in any case, form the
+centre of it.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_175" id=
+"page_175">[175]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_204"><img alt=
+"Embroidery Border for a Reading Desk." src=
+"images/image204.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_176" id=
+"page_176">[176]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_177" id="page_177">[177]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_205"><img alt=
+"Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery." src=
+"images/image205.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_178" id=
+"page_178">[178]</a></span>
+
+<p>205.--<em>Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+6 and No. 12; net and muslin.</p>
+
+<p>The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked
+over net. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the
+veinings are sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the
+muslin is then cut away all round the pattern.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>206.--<em>Venetian Border.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No.
+12 and No. 16; net and muslin.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_206"><img alt="Venetian Border." src=
+"images/image206.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This design is elegant and effective, without there being a
+great deal of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening
+dresses or handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net,
+sewn neatly over, and then cut away between the pattern, leaving
+the net for the ground work.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_179" id=
+"page_179">[179]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_207"><img alt="Lace Insertion." src=
+"images/image207.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_180" id=
+"page_180">[180]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>207.--Lace Insertion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net.</p>
+
+<p>This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the
+net; the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are
+worked in overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning
+across the circle previously outlined; the lace stitches in the
+centre are formed by gently enlarging the net holes with a fine
+stiletto, and then sewn lightly round, the remaining holes being
+filled with lace stitches consisting of fine button-hole stitches,
+very evenly worked over the entire space surrounding the open
+holes.</p>
+
+<p>To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed.
+This pattern may be worked in appliqu&eacute; by placing muslin
+over net, sewing all the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when
+finished, carefully cutting away the muslin.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>208 <em>and</em> 209.--<em>Slipper on Java Canvas.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle
+and purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide;
+some wadding; 2 cork soles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_208"><img alt="Slipper on Java Canvas." src=
+"images/image208.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of
+light <span class="newpage"><a name="page_181" id=
+"page_181">[181]</a></span> brown Java canvas, and embroidered in
+point Russe with green filoselle. It is lined with green silk, and
+slightly quilted. The soles are of cork. The slipper is trimmed all
+round with a ruche of green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch
+wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is turned down inside.
+No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitch nearly full
+size.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_209"><img alt=
+"Point Russe Stitch for Slipper (No. 208)" src=
+"images/image209.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>210 <em>and</em> 211.--<em>Medallions in Point Russe</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or
+silk.</p>
+
+<p>These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers,
+cushions, borders, &amp;c. They are worked with coloured filoselle
+in point Russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted
+stitch, on cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of
+both medallions contrasts with the colour of the ground, and must
+therefore be worked in appliqu&eacute; on the latter with
+herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border. The wreath on
+No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which imitate small
+blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is left to the
+personal taste of the worker.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_182" id=
+"page_182">[182]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_210"><img alt="Medallion in Point Russe."
+src="images/image210.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_211"><img alt="Medallion in Point Russe."
+src="images/image211.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_183" id=
+"page_183">[183]</a></span>
+
+<p>212.--<em>Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: French lawn or cambric; fine black silk.</p>
+
+<p>This butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in
+order more closely to imitate etching. It is worked in point Russe
+and scallop stitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in
+button-hole scallop stitch, the stitches being taken very closely
+together, but not raised by the usual method of placing chain
+stitches beneath the button-hole stitches. The outlines and flowers
+are worked in point Russe, the dot in knotted stitch (see No. 73,
+<em>Embroidery Instructions</em>.)</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_212"><img alt=
+"Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner" src=
+"images/image212.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch,
+and should be worked with great regularity.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_184" id=
+"page_184">[184]</a></span>
+
+<p>213 <em>to</em> 215.--<em>Pattern for a Couvrette in
+Appliqu&eacute;</em>. (<em>see pages <a href=
+"#page_576">576-7</a></em>.)</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos.
+24 and 30; cambric muslin; Brussels net; flesh-coloured silk;
+sewing silk of the same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue
+silk; brown silk; gold thread.</p>
+
+<p>This style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed
+covers. It is worked in cambric muslin and silk, over Brussels
+net.</p>
+
+<p>The arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the
+outlines are embroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away
+all round. The medallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon
+them are cut out of flesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon
+tissue-paper, then upon the blue silk; the figures are further
+fastened upon the medallions in overcast stitch with fine silk of a
+rather darker shade of flesh-colour. The scarfs are cut out of
+bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver and arrows and all the other
+attributes are worked in gold thread; the hair in fine brown silk.
+The edge of the blue silk medallions is worked round in button-hole
+stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when the couvrette has to
+be cleaned. A border in open ladder stitch is worked round them
+(see No. 81, <em>Embroidery Instructions</em>). The openings in the
+centre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<h2>CROCHET</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_185" id=
+"page_185">[185]</a></span> <a name="CROCHET_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+
+<h3>CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<center><a name="image_c"><img alt="A Crochet Needle" src=
+"images/imagec.jpg"><br>
+<small>A Crochet-Needle</small></a></center>
+
+<p>Cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the
+materials required for working crochet. The needle, whether it be
+steel or bone, must be smoothly polished. The long wooden and bone
+crochet-needles are used for wool; for cotton and silk work short
+steel needles screwed into a bone handle are best. The beauty of
+the crochet-work depends upon the regularity of the stitches, as is
+the case with every other style of needlework. The stitches must be
+elastic, but if too loose they look as bad as if too tight. The
+size of the needle and that of the cotton or wool must correspond;
+work only with the point of the needle, and never move the stitch
+up and down the needle. The cotton with which you work must be of
+the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes, imitation
+of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes,
+counterpanes, covers, &amp;c., use knitting-cotton. All
+crochet-work <span class="newpage"><a name="page_186" id=
+"page_186">[186]</a></span> patterns are begun on a foundation
+chain; there are three kinds of foundation chains--the plain
+foundation, the double foundation, and the purl foundation
+chain.</p>
+
+<p>The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_216"><img alt="Plain Foundation Chain." src=
+"images/image216.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 216.--Form a loop with the cotton or other material
+with which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as
+for knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand.
+The crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and
+forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the
+cotton of the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left
+hand, wind the cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle
+underneath the cotton from left to right, catch the cotton with the
+hook of the needle and draw it as a loop through the loop already
+on the needle, which is cast off the needle by this means and forms
+one chain stitch. The drawing the cotton through the loop is
+repeated until the foundation chain has <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_187" id="page_187">[187]</a></span> acquired sufficient
+length. When enough chain stitches have been made, take the
+foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand,
+so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of the
+needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the
+needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a
+loop.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_217"><img alt="Double Foundation Chain."
+src="images/image217.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 217 (<em>The Double Foundation
+Chain</em>).--Crochet 2 chain stitches, insert the needle downwards
+into the left side of the 1st chain stitch, throw the cotton
+forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the
+needle and draw it through the two loops on the needle, * draw the
+cotton as a loop through the left side of the last stitch (see
+illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it
+through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation
+chain is long enough.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_218"><img alt="Purl Foundation Chain." src=
+"images/image218.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 218 (<em>Purl Foundation Chain</em>).--* Crochet 4
+chain stitch, then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round
+the needle, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the
+1st of the 4 chain stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw
+it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and
+at the same time draw the cotton through the last loop and through
+the stitch formed by winding the cotton round the needle. Wind the
+cotton once more round the needle, and draw it through the 2
+remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain stitches form a kind of
+scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_188" id="page_188">[188]</a></span> crochet
+stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they are
+all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234.
+Make a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described
+(No. 216), and take it on the needle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_219"><img alt="Slip Stitch." src=
+"images/image219.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 219 (<em>Slip Stitch</em>).--Draw the needle
+through the back part of a foundation chain stitch, or in the
+course of the work through the back part of a stitch of the
+preceding row, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it
+through the stitch and loop on the needle. The illustration shows a
+number of slip stitches, the last of which is left quite loose; the
+arrow marks the place where the needle is to be inserted for the
+next stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_220"><img alt="Double Stitch." src=
+"images/image220.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 220 (<em>Double Stitch</em>).--These are worked
+nearly like the preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through
+the back part of a stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and
+draw it through the two loops on the needle.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_189" id=
+"page_189">[189]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_221"><img alt="Double Stitch." src=
+"images/image221.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like
+the preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in
+the following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a
+stitch of the preceding row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_222"><img alt="Ribbed Stitch." src=
+"images/image222.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 222 (<em>The Ribbed Stitch</em>).--This stitch is
+worked backwards and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides
+are worked together, which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle
+always into the back part of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at
+the end of every row, which is not worked, however, in the
+following row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_223"><img alt="Slanting Stitch." src=
+"images/image223.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_190" id=
+"page_190">[190]</a></span>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 223 (<em>Slanting Stitch, double
+stitch</em>).--This stitch is worked like that described in No.
+220; the cotton is not wound round the needle the first time in the
+usual manner, but the needle is placed in the direction of the
+arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as a loop; the
+stitch is finished like the common double stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_224"><img alt="Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image224.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 224 (<em>Cross Stitch</em>).--This stitch is worked
+like No. 223 on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle
+through the two upper sides of a stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_191" id=
+"page_191">[191]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_225"><img alt="Long Double Stitch." src=
+"images/image225.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Illustration 225 (<em>Long Double</em>).--For this stitch wind
+the cotton round the needle, insert it into the back part of a
+stitch, draw the cotton out as a loop, wind the cotton again round
+the needle, and cast off together the two loops and the loop formed
+by winding the cotton round the needle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_226"><img alt="Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image226.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 226 (<em>Treble Stitch</em>).--These stitches are
+worked as has been described for the purl foundation chain, No.
+218. The treble stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the
+stitches of the preceding row.</p>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 227 (<em>Long Treble</em>).--These are worked like
+treble stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle;
+the double <span class="newpage"><a name="page_192" id=
+"page_192">[192]</a></span> long treble (illustration 228) is
+worked by winding the cotton three times round the needle. The
+loops formed by winding the cotton round the needle are cast off
+one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The two loops that
+remain at the end are cast off together after winding the cotton
+round the needle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_227"><img alt="Long Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image227.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_228"><img alt="Double Long Treble Stitch."
+src="images/image228.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_193" id=
+"page_193">[193]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_229"><img alt="Cross Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image229.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<center><a name="image_230"><img alt="Cross Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image230.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<br>
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (<em>Cross Treble</em>).--Illustration 229
+shows this stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in
+the course of the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as
+for a long treble, insert the needle into the stitch in which the
+first half of the cross treble is to be worked, wind the cotton
+round the needle, draw the cotton through as a loop, wind the
+cotton again round the needle and cast off together with the same
+the loop on the needle and the loop formed by throwing the cotton
+forward; you have now 3 loops left on the needle, 1 of which has
+been formed by winding the cotton round the needle; missing these,
+wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the 2 next stitches of
+the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the third stitch. You
+have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2 loops at a time
+till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain stitches (if
+you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting, work 1, 2, or
+3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of foundation
+chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown by the
+arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble
+stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_194" id=
+"page_194">[194]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_231"><img alt="Cross Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image231.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_232"><img alt="Raised Spots." src=
+"images/image232.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 232 (<em>Raised Spots</em>).--The grounding on
+which these spots are worked consists of double crochet. They are
+worked across 3 rows of the ground, and formed of treble stitches,
+the spots of one row being placed between those of the preceding.
+Work first 2 rows of double stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2
+double stitches and then 1 spot as follows:--1 treble, inserting
+the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of the first row (the
+preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only completed so
+far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_195" id="page_195">[195]</a></span>
+stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only
+completed as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd
+treble there remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle
+(see illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding
+the cotton once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss
+under the spot the next double stitch of the preceding row; the
+spots are repeated at intervals of 5 stitches and in every other
+row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_233"><img alt="Hollow Spots." src=
+"images/image233.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 233 (<em>Hollow Spots</em>).--The ground is worked
+in double crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear
+raised, consist of 5 treble stitches; they are worked in every
+other row at intervals of 5 stitches. For working them leave 1 loop
+on the needle, insert the needle between the 2 long sides of the
+last-worked double stitch, and work 5 treble stitches, always
+inserting the needle into the front part of 1 stitch of the
+preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely without
+taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth treble
+stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton
+round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the
+spot.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_196" id=
+"page_196">[196]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_234"><img alt="Open-work Spots." src=
+"images/image234.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 234 (<em>Open-work Spots</em>).--These spots are
+treble stitches divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the
+latter; for the rest, they are worked like the raised spots
+(illustration 232).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_235"><img alt="Raised Treble Stitch." src=
+"images/image235.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 235 (<em>Raised Treble Stitch</em>).--These
+stitches are long treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration
+222), and are thrown across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble
+are always worked on the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_197"
+id="page_197">[197]</a></span> same side of the work and in the
+long side of the corresponding stitch of the last row but two.
+After every row with treble stitch comes a row in ribbed stitch. At
+the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the treble stitches
+begin only in the 4th row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_236"><img alt="Purl Stitch." src=
+"images/image236.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 236 (<em>Purl Stitch</em>).--These purl stitches
+imitate a lace edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the
+loop to a certain length (this forms the purl), take the needle out
+of it, insert it in the front part of the last stitch which has
+been worked (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle
+and draw it through as a loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_237"><img alt="Purl Stitch." src=
+"images/image237.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 237 (<em>Purl Stitch turned upwards</em>).--Work 1
+treble, then 7 chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the
+7 chain stitch <span class="newpage"><a name="page_198" id=
+"page_198">[198]</a></span> downwards, so that the chain stitches
+form a scallop upwards (see illustration), wind the cotton round
+the needle and draw the cotton through; work 1 chain stitch and 1
+treble in the next stitch but 3, missing 3 stitches under it.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_238"><img alt="Purl Stitch." src=
+"images/image238.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 238 (<em>Purl Stitch turned downwards</em>).--The
+chain stitches form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked
+the 7 chain stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it
+underneath the upper chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to
+left, and draw it through the loop in the direction of the arrow.
+Wind the cotton round the needle and cast all the loops off
+together. It is evident that the purl stitches may be worked at
+larger or smaller distances.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_199" id=
+"page_199">[199]</a></span> <a name="CROCHET_PATTERNS"></a>
+
+<h3>CROCHET PATTERNS</h3>
+
+<p>239.--<em>Small Crochet Basket</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1
+ball of pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_239"><img alt="Small Crochet Basket." src=
+"images/image239.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>For the bottom:</em>Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it,
+work 3 long, 3 chain, and repeat three times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em>Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3
+chain, work 3 long <span class="newpage"><a name="page_200" id=
+"page_200">[200]</a></span> into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain,
+work 3 long into the same place, make 3 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3
+chain of last round.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other
+3rd chain by working twice into it.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>For the leaves:</em> Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work
+a row of 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver
+twine.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in
+1st row, make 1 chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long,
+with a chain stitch between each), repeat on the other side of the
+chain, 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch alternately.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> With pink: Work over a wire in double
+crochet 1 stitch into each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same
+way, join each leaf half way, then sew it to the centre, work a row
+of double crochet 1 yard in length, and twist it for the handle.
+This should also be crocheted over wire.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>240 to 243.--<em>Couvrette in Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+10, and steel crochet needle.</p>
+
+<p>This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles
+representing dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242
+shows one of these large circles in full size, No. 241 one of the
+small circles placed in the spaces between the larger ones, No. 243
+part of the border, and No. 240 the couvrette when completed, but
+in reduced size.</p>
+
+<p>For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it
+into a circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 30 stitches of double crochet over the
+circle of chain stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 36 stitches of double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> The same as the preceding--the 1 double
+always on the 3rd chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the
+centre stitch of each loop.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_201" id=
+"page_201">[201]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_240"><img alt="Couvrette in Crochet." src=
+"images/image240.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_202" id=
+"page_202">[202]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>6th to 12th round:</em> The same as the 5th, close double
+crochet, increasing in the centre of each small scallop, which
+forms the 18 raised petals of the dahlia.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round:</em> Here begins the open-work border round the
+dahlia. Work 1 double between 2 petals, taking together the 2
+centre stitches, 1 double in the next, 5 chain. There will be 18
+loops of 5 chain in the round.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th to 17th round:</em> 1 double in centre of each loop, 5
+chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>18th round:</em> 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1
+treble in next loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3
+double, with 3 chain between each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same
+all round, and the large circle is completed. Six of these are
+required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_241"><img alt=
+"Showing one of the small Circles full size of No.240." src=
+"images/image241.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it
+into a round.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 16 stitches of close double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double
+between. This <span class="newpage"><a name="page_203" id=
+"page_203">[203]</a></span> completes 1 of the 6 small circles
+placed round the large ones in the centre of the couvrette. The 6
+that are placed between the 5 other large circles have 1 more
+round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in the centre of 1
+scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3 chain
+between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_242"><img alt=
+"Showing one of the large Circles full size of No. 240." src=
+"images/image242.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_204" id=
+"page_204">[204]</a></span>
+
+<p>When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen
+in illustration 217, and work the border as follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a
+small circle, 8 chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble
+in 3rd trefoil, 8 chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1
+long treble in 1 trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the
+4 next trefoils of the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain,
+1 long treble in the last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain.
+Repeat all round.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first
+stitch of last round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain
+between next stitch. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd and 4th rounds:</em>The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble
+always in 1 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain
+between the 2nd and 3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> The same as the 5th.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of
+the treble, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the
+couvrette.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_243"><img alt="Border for Couvrette." src=
+"images/image243.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_205" id=
+"page_205">[205]</a></span>
+
+<p>244.--<em>Star in Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 80,
+or with No. 8 or 10 for couvrettes.</p>
+
+<p>A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty
+strips of insertion. For this purpose they should be worked with
+fine cotton. They may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and
+cravats, the material being cut away underneath. If worked with
+crochet cotton No. 8 or 10, they will make nice couvrettes,
+bed-quilts, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_244"><img alt="Star in Crochet." src=
+"images/image244.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70
+stitches, and join it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work
+1 extra long treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle
+under the chain, then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2
+extra long double, miss <span class="newpage"><a name="page_206"
+id="page_206">[206]</a></span> 4, and work 1 double, inserting the
+needle <em>under</em> the 5th. Repeat 13 times from * Fasten off,
+and for the centre of the star work as follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double
+in the next 7 chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus
+forming 1 loop. Repeat from * 5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 12 double on the first loop of chain of the
+first branch, 1 double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip
+the stitch which is upon the needle in one of the stitches of the
+foundation chain of the outer circle, work 1 double in the first of
+the 2 chain last made, then 12 double in the remaining loop of
+chain of the branch, and 1 double at the bottom of the branch.
+Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre star must be joined on to
+the outer circle at regular distances.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>245.--<em>Crochet Silk Bag over Rings</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse
+purse twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the
+bag and strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks
+that are left; rings.</p>
+
+<p>Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and
+fasten off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour
+take a ring and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take
+a second ring, and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting
+off the silk, work over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work
+on the other side of the rings to correspond, join the first and
+last ring together, and sew in the centre ring; this completes the
+1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, 3 rose colour,
+with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab with rose centre, 3
+black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate colours to the 1st
+circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to the
+corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_207" id=
+"page_207">[207]</a></span> the other 6 circles in the following
+manner: join one ring to the second from the one that was sewed to
+the 1st circle, join the next ring to the corresponding one of the
+next circle (which will be the one opposite to the one sewed in the
+1st circle), and repeat, joining the other 5 in the same way.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_245"><img alt="Crochet Silk Bag." src=
+"images/image245.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_208" id=
+"page_208">[208]</a></span>
+
+<p>For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it,
+work 4 long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single
+stitch to the centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle,
+make 2 chain, work 4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a
+stitch of single crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2
+chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long
+into the same place, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single
+crochet to the next ring, make 2 chain, and join it to the first of
+the long stitches; this completes the diamonds; work 5 more,
+joining them in the same way, then work over 12 rings, and join one
+on each side of every diamond; this completes the lower part of the
+bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of double crochet
+to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st round:
+Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work 12
+more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain
+stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match
+one of the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from
+the silk that is remaining after working the crochet.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>246.--<em>Crochet Sovereign Purse.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured
+ditto; a few steel beads; and a steel clasp.</p>
+
+<p>The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the
+raised rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being
+dotted with steel beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are
+worked, increasing where necessary, to make the work lie flat; then
+4 rows of loops of chain in coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick
+double crochet, threading the beads first on the silk, and pushing
+them up to the stitches when required.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_209" id=
+"page_209">[209]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_246"><img alt="Crochet Sovereign Purse."
+src="images/image246.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the
+little <span class="newpage"><a name="page_210" id=
+"page_210">[210]</a></span> raised piece worked in treble crochet,
+inserting the hook on the <em>upper</em> side of the stitches.
+Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both sides of the
+purse are finished they should be joined together (except where the
+clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with beads.
+This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without the
+least difficulty from the illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>247.--<em>Stars in Crochet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8
+or 20.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover,
+according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.</p>
+
+<p>Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In
+the 1st stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st
+stitch, repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the
+4th of the 8 chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st
+stitch. Now work (without cutting the cotton) the branches, which
+are begun from the centre.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st branch.--1st round:</em> 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th,
+so as to form a purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2
+chain between, missing 2 stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the last of the 18 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with
+1 purl between over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2
+chain, 1 purl, 7 double over the next 5 chain; then, on the other
+side of the branch, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double
+with 1 purl between, 2 double on the last 2 chain of the branch, 1
+slip stitch in the stitch from which the leaf was begun, 5 double
+over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the second branch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_211" id=
+"page_211">[211]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>1st round of the 2nd leaf:</em> 22 chain, 1 double in the
+last so as to form a circle.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_247"><img alt="Stars in Crochet." src=
+"images/image247.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in
+the next stitch work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point,
+1 double in each <span class="newpage"><a name="page_212" id=
+"page_212">[212]</a></span> of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip
+stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st round.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more,
+then work in double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with
+1 chain between, then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as
+the 1st. Before beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain
+stitches of the circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the
+2 above explained; cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the
+point of one of the branches, in order to join them together by the
+two following rounds:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 1 double in the point of one of the leaves,
+* 4 chain, 1 purl under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the
+chain with the crochet to the right, insert the needle downwards in
+the first chain, and make a slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4
+chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the point of the
+next leaf, repeat from * five times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl
+as usual--that is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain.
+Now work 1 trefoil (thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1
+chain, 1 double in the 1 double coming just before the 3 purl). 1
+double on each of the next 4 chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double,
+1 trefoil, repeat five times from *.</p>
+
+<p>Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the
+illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>248.--<em>Crochet Purse over Rings.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of
+maize coarse purse silk.</p>
+
+<p>Work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches;
+this is the centre ring for the bottom of the purse.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_213" id=
+"page_213">[213]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_248"><img alt="Crochet Purse over Rings."
+src="images/image248.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_214" id=
+"page_214">[214]</a></span>
+
+<p>Then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take
+another ring and work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6
+rings, then work round the other half of each ring 19 stitches; and
+when the 6 are finished, join the first to the last to make a
+circle; sew the maize ring into the centre of it, then work over 12
+rings with black in the same manner, and place them outside the
+cerise circle. Then work over 16 rings with maize colour, and join
+them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; they are to stand
+up to form the sides of the purse. Work over 16 rings with cerise,
+and these you can join one to each of the former rounds in working
+the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. Work
+over 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the
+cerise. For the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of
+the ring a stitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the
+stitch joining the 8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain,
+repeat. Then work 4 rounds of single open crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> * Work a stitch of double crochet and 1
+chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a
+long stitch, make 1 chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch,
+make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1
+chain, work a long stitch into the next loop, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em>Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2
+chain, work another long stitch into the same place, * make 1
+chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last
+round, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 1 chain, * work a
+stitch of double crochet into the next 1 chain, make 1 chain,
+repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long
+stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place,
+make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1
+chain, work a 4th long <span class="newpage"><a name="page_215" id=
+"page_215">[215]</a></span> stitch into the same place, * make 1
+chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, repeat
+from * 3 times more, miss the next 2 stitches of double crochet, *
+work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain,
+repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em> Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2
+chain, work another long stitch into the same place, repeat the
+stitches of double crochet with 1 chain between, as in last round,
+then repeat from the beginning. 10th and 11th rounds the same as
+the 9th. Add a tassel at the bottom, and strings run into the last
+row of open crochet complete the purse.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_249"><img alt="Crochet Brioche Cushion."
+src="images/image249.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>249.--<em>Crochet Brioche Cushion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 10 skeins of 12-thread fleecy, of six shades of red
+(these should be most of the darker shades); 2 skeins of white
+ditto; 1 skein of white filoselle.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_216" id=
+"page_216">[216]</a></span>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 196 stitches with the darkest shade of red wool,
+and join it into a circle.</p>
+
+<p>Work 1 round of raised spots thus:--Turn the wool 5 times round
+the needle, insert the needle in 1 chain, and draw it through all
+the loops, then work 1 slip stitch, insert the needle in the next
+stitch, work 1 double, and begin a fresh spot. Continue in the same
+way all round.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Divide the round into 7 parts; work 12 spots
+with the 3rd shade of red, always working 1 double between each
+spot, and taking care to place them between those of preceding
+round: after 12 spots, work 1 double, then 12 more, and so on.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 3rd shade of red, 11 spots, 1 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 4th shade, 10 spots, 3 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 5th shade, 9 spots, 5 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> Same shade, 8 spots, 7 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 5th shade, 7 spots, 9 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Same shade, 6 spots, 11 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em> Same shade, 5 spots, 13 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th round:</em> 6th shade, 4 spots, 15 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th round:</em> Same shade, 3 spots, 17 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th round:</em> Same shade, 2 spots, 19 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round:</em> Same shade, 1 spot, 21 double. The pattern
+of raised spots being now completed, continue to work with the
+lightest shade of red in double stitches, decreasing once above
+each pattern, so as to close up the circle gradually. The white
+flowers are worked over the plain part of the cushion with white
+wool, and silk for the petals, and a black dot in the centre. The
+cushion is stuffed with horsehair and lined with glazed calico. A
+round of thick pasteboard is stitched in at the bottom, to make it
+stand firmer.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: For a large couvrette, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Boar's Head cotton No. 8; for pincushion covers, mats, and
+such-like small articles, Boar's Head cotton No. 16 or 20.</p>
+
+<p>A pattern of this description is most useful, as it can be
+converted to <span class="newpage"><a name="page_217" id=
+"page_217">[217]</a></span> so many purposes. Counterpanes,
+couvrettes of every description, mats, pincushions, and a thousand
+other things can all be arranged from the design.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_250"><img alt=
+"Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette." src=
+"images/image250.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Each circle is made separately, and joined to the others, as the
+last row is crocheted. Begin in the centre; make 8 chain, insert
+the needle in the first, and make * a long treble stitch, then make
+3 chain, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_218" id=
+"page_218">[218]</a></span> repeat 4 times from *, always inserting
+the needle in the 1st chain stitch, join the last chain to the 5th
+of the 1st 8 chain to close the round.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 1 double crochet, * 9 chain, turn, work
+a slip stitch in each of the 9 chain; work round the stem thus made
+in close crochet, working 3 stitches in 1 to turn at the point;
+miss 1 stitch of preceding row, work 2 double crochet, and repeat
+from * 5 times more, making 6 petals in all.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Work at the back of the last row, behind the
+petals; make 1 petal between each petal in last row, 1 double
+crochet at the back of each, and cut the cotton at the end of the
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 2 double crochet at the point of each of the
+12 petals, 5 chain between each petal.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 2 treble, 5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th and last round:</em> 1 double crochet in the centre of
+the 1st 5 chain, * 5 chain, 1 treble in the centre of the next 5
+chain, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the top of the treble stitch, 6
+chain, 1 slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, a 3rd slip stitch
+in the same place, 5 chain, 1 double crochet in the centre of the
+next 5 chain, repeat from * to the end of the round. There should
+be 12 trefoil patterns in the round.</p>
+
+<p>For the couvrette join the circles together, as shown in
+illustration, in working the last round. As many circles can be
+added as may be required for the couvrette.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>251.--<em>Crochet Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40
+or 60.</p>
+
+<p>This lace produces a very good effect when worked with fine
+cotton. Make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st
+row entirely in double stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> * 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, miss 1
+stitch under it; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_219" id=
+"page_219">[219]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 long treble in the 3rd stitch of the
+preceding row, * 3 purl (each consisting of 5 chain, 1 double, in
+the 1st of the same), 1 long treble in the same stitch of the
+preceding row, 1 purl, miss 3, 3 double in the 3 following
+stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, 1 long treble in the 4th stitch;
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_251"><img alt="Crochet Lace." src=
+"images/image251.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> * 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of
+the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 long treble divided by 3 purl in the
+middle of the 3 next double in the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat
+from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> * 2 long treble, divided by 3 purl in the
+middle of the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl, 3 double
+in the middle of the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl;
+repeat from *. Repeat the 4th and 5th rows alternately till the
+border is wide enough.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_220" id=
+"page_220">[220]</a></span>
+
+<p>252.--<em>Crochet Border</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12,
+16, 24, or 40.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_252"><img alt="Crochet Border." src=
+"images/image252.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This border is suitable for a great variety of purposes,
+according to the size of the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it
+will make a trimming for couvrettes and berceaunette covers; with
+fine cotton it can be used for children's clothes, small curtains,
+&amp;c. Make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work</p>
+
+<p><em>the 1st row:</em> * 2 treble divided by 3 chain in the 1st
+foundation chain stitch, miss 3; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> * In the 1st scallop of the preceding row, 1
+double, 5 treble, 1 double, then 1 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip
+stitch in the 1st of the four), 1 chain, miss under these the next
+chain stitch scallop; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 treble in the chain stitch on either side of
+the purl in the preceding row, 5 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> * 2 double divided by 7 chain in the two first
+treble of the preceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper
+parts of the stitch), 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these
+10 stitches so as to form a loop, 4 chain, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> * 1 slip in the middle stitch of the scallop
+formed by 7 chain <span class="newpage"><a name="page_221" id=
+"page_221">[221]</a></span> in the preceding row, 4 treble, 3
+chain, 5 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble, all these 13 stitches in the
+loop of the preceding row, so as to form a clover-leaf pattern;
+repeat from *, but fasten the 4th treble with a slip stitch on the
+10th treble of the preceding figure.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> In the first and last stitch of the 5 middle
+treble of the clover-leaf 1 double, 7 chain between, 7th row: * 1
+double in the 2nd chain stitch of the scallop which is above the 5
+middle treble of the clover-leaf, 2 chain, 1 purl (5 chain, 1 slip
+stitch in the 1st), 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch of
+the same scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, miss one chain of the
+scallop, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the next
+chain stitch, 3 chain. 1 double in the middle stitch of the
+following scallop, 3 chain, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_253"><img alt="Crochet Border." src=
+"images/image253.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>253--<em>Crochet Border</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 24,
+40, or 60, according to the article for which it is required.</p>
+
+<p>On a sufficiently long foundation chain work the 1st row: 1
+double in each chain stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_222" id=
+"page_222">[222]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Alternately 1 double, 7 chain, miss under the
+latter 3 stitches of the preceding row.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 treble in each double of the preceding row,
+1 double in the middle stitch of each scallop, 2 chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> 1 double on each double of the preceding row,
+1 treble on each treble, 3 chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> 1 double on each treble of the preceding row,
+3 chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> 1 double in each stitch of the preceding
+row.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> * 1 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding
+row, 4 chain, miss 1, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, miss 3
+stitches, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, 4 chain, miss 1
+stitch, 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 4; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Repeat regularly 8 treble in the scallop
+formed of 4 chain in the preceding row, 1 double in the middle of
+the following 3 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding
+row, 2 treble, 1 long treble in next treble but 2, 2 long treble in
+each of the 2 following treble, 1 long treble, 2 treble in the next
+treble, 1 double in the next treble but 2, 3 chain, 1 purl (4
+chain, 1 slip), 3 chain stitch; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding
+row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, miss 2 under them, 1 double, 2
+chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain but 1 of the
+next scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the 2 chain
+stitch after the purl of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2
+chain; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> In each scallop of the preceding row 2 double
+(they must meet on either side of the purl); they are divided
+alternately by 5 chain, and by a scallop formed of 2 chain, 1 purl,
+and 2 chain, only in the chain stitch scallops which join the two
+treble figures work no double, but 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_223" id=
+"page_223">[223]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>254 to 257.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with
+Crochet.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Berlin wool in two colours.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_254"><img alt=
+"Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet." src=
+"images/image254.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The seat and back of this arm-chair are covered with two round
+couvrettes, worked in crochet with Berlin wool of two colours. They
+are fastened on the chair with woollen braid, finishing off with
+tassels of the same colour. Begin each couvrette in the centre with
+a foundation chain of 6 stitches, with the lightest wool; join them
+into a circle, and work the 1st round in the following manner:--12
+double.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next stitch of
+the 1st round, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_224" id=
+"page_224">[224]</a></span> inserting the needle in the upper part
+of the stitch; repeat from * 11 times more; at the end of this
+round work 1 slip stitch in the 1st chain of this round. We shall
+not repeat any more the repetitions from * to the end of the
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * 4 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of
+the preceding round; at the end of the round 4 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 4 double in each scallop of the preceding
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Begin to work with the darker wool and
+crochet slip stitch, inserting the needle in the front chain of the
+stitches of the 4th round.</p>
+
+<p>The 6th round is worked once more with light wool, and consists
+entirely of double stitch, worked by inserting the needle at the
+back of the stitches of the 4th round, so that the slip stitches
+appear raised on the right side of the work, and form a round of
+chain stitches. The middle part of the couvrette is then
+finished.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_255"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Arm Chair Border." src=
+"images/image255.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_256"><img alt="Border for Arm Chair (254)."
+src="images/image256.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_225" id=
+"page_225">[225]</a></span>
+
+<p>Illustration 257 shows it in full size.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> * 2 chain, missing 1 stitch of the preceding
+round under them, 1 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of
+the preceding round.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em>3 double in each scallop.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th round:</em> like the 5th;</p>
+
+<p><em>11th round:</em> like the 6th;</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_257"><img alt=
+"Couvrette for Arm Chair (254)." src=
+"images/image257.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th rounds, like the 7th--11th;</p>
+
+<p>17th--19th rounds like the 7th--9th.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th round:</em> Alternately 1 treble with the light wool, 1
+treble with the dark; but every treble stitch must be cast off with
+the wool of the colour of the next stitch; that is, a light treble
+stitch with the dark wool, and a dark treble stitch with the light
+wool. Now and then crochet 2 treble stitches in one stitch of the
+preceding round, so that the couvrette remains perfectly flat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_226" id=
+"page_226">[226]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>21st round:</em> 1 double in every stitch.</p>
+
+<p>The 22nd--31st rounds consist of a double repetition of the
+7th--11th rounds.</p>
+
+<p>The 32nd and 33rd rounds are made in open work like the 7th and
+8th rounds.</p>
+
+<p>The 34th round is worked in treble stitches like the 20th round.
+Then work the outer border. It consists of chain stitch scallops
+which are worked alternately with dark and light wool. Illustration
+No. 256 shows a part of the border with the treble round in full
+size. Work from it with the light wool 1 double on 1 light treble
+stitch of the preceding round, 5 chain, 1 double, on the next light
+treble, throw the wool off the needle and let it hang over the
+right side of the work; crochet with the dark wool 1 double on the
+treble stitch between the 2 double of this round, leave the wool on
+the right side of the work; 5 chain, 1 double, on the next dark
+treble. Take the needle again out of the loop, draw the wool on to
+the right side, and work the next chain stitch scallop again with
+the light wool.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of this border, pattern No. 255 may be worked. It
+consists of 3 rounds to be worked after the 34th round of the
+couvrette.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round of the border:</em> With dark wool, * 1 double in
+1 stitch, of the 34th round; 1 double, 3 treble, 1 double, in the
+next stitch; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> With the light wool, * 1 treble, inserting
+the needle in the next treble stitch of the 34th round, thus
+working over the double stitch between the spots of the preceding
+round; 1 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * 3 double in each chain stitch of the
+preceding round. To work the 2nd of these 3 double, insert the
+needle at the same time in the upper part of the middle treble of
+the 1st round.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Dark wool, * 1 double in each double of the
+preceding round, miss 1, and work 3 treble in the next stitch but
+one; the last of these <span class="newpage"><a name="page_227" id=
+"page_227">[227]</a></span> 3 treble is cast off with light wool,
+miss 1, and continue to work with the light wool 1 double in the
+next stitch but one, miss 1, 3 treble in the next stitch, cast off
+the last with the dark wool, miss 1; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>258 to 260.--Crochet Insertions.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30,
+40, or 60.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_258"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image258.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These insertions are worked with crochet cotton of sizes which
+depend upon the use you wish to make of them. The insertion seen in
+illustration 258 is worked the long way in 8 rows. Make a
+sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row as
+follows:--1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 5
+chain, miss 3, 1 double in the next stitch but 3, repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em>1 slip stitch in the middle of the 1st 5 chain,
+* 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain,
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_228" id=
+"page_228">[228]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 treble in the 1st stitch, * 1 leaf worked as
+follows: 6 chain, then without noticing the loop left on the needle
+1 long treble in the 2nd and 1 in the 1st of the 6 chain; these
+stitches are not cast off separately, but together with the loop
+left on the needle. Then 5 chain, miss 7, 1 treble in the 8th
+stitch, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> 1 double in the 1st of the 5 chain, * 8 chain,
+1 double in the 1st of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> * 1 leaf as in the 3rd row, 1 double in the
+double stitch of the preceding row, 5 chain, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> 1 treble in the point of the 1st leaf, * 7
+chain, 1 treble in the point of the next leaf, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th and 8th rows:</em> Like the 1st and 2nd.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_259"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image259.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The insertion seen in illustration 259 is worked in 6 rows, and
+is begun in the centre on a foundation chain sufficiently long not
+to be worked too tight.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 4 double in the 1st 4 stitches, * 4 double
+divided in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain,
+inserting the needle in the 1st row into the 2 chain. Illustration
+260 shows an insertion which imitates darned netting; it is worked
+on a grounding imitating netting with raised figures. The grounding
+consists of 9 rows. Work on a sufficiently long foundation chain
+the 1st row as follows: 1 cross <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_229" id="page_229">[229]</a></span> treble in the 1st and 3rd
+stitch, * 2 chain, missing 2 stitches under them, 1 cross treble in
+the 6th and 8th stitch, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, miss 4
+under them, 1 double in the 5th stitch, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd to 8th rows:</em> 1 double in the middle stitch of every
+chain stitch scallop, 4 chain between. 9th row: Like the 1st. Work
+from illustration square patterns on this grounding, consisting
+each of 4 leaves; for these leaves carry on the cotton taken double
+in double windings from 1 double stitch to another, so as to have 4
+threads lying close to each other; darn these as can be seen in
+illustration, with single cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_260"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image260.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>261.--<em>Crochet Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No.
+30.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_261"><img alt="Crochet Lace." src=
+"images/image261.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>A particular kind of purl makes this border look very like
+guipure lace. Begin with a foundation chain worked in the following
+manner:--* 3 chain, the last of them forms 1 purl; this is made by
+drawing out a long <span class="newpage"><a name="page_230" id=
+"page_230">[230]</a></span> loop on the needle, taking the needle
+out of the loop, inserting it in the chain stitch before the last
+one, drawing the cotton through it, and continuing to work so that
+the loop out of which the needle has been drawn forms 1 purl. All
+the purl must be equally long; to do this more easily the loop may
+be kept on the needle till a chain stitch has been worked in that
+which comes just before the purl, continue the foundation chain,
+and repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 long double in the 1st stitch of the
+foundation, * 1 chain, 1 slip stitch in the nearest purl of the
+foundation chain; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 1 chain,
+missing 1 stitch under it; 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch of the
+preceding row; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Like the 1st.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 5 chain,
+1 purl, 1 chain, missing 5 stitches under them; 1 double in the 6th
+stitch; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> 1 long double in the 1st stitch, 3 chain, 1
+purl, 1 chain, * 1 double in the middle of the next 5 chain of the
+preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th to 9th rows:</em> Alternately like the 4th and 5th
+rows.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 6 chain, 1
+double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the needle) in
+the 1st of these chain stitches; the stitch is only completed so
+far as still to leave 2 loops on the needle; 1 double long treble
+in the same chain stitch. This stitch is cast off so as to leave in
+all 3 loops, and the cotton over the needle; these loops are cast
+off together by drawing the cotton once through them. This forms 1
+leaf, or one-half of the bell-shaped patterns. 3 purl, 1 chain, 1
+leaf like the preceding one, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the first
+6 chain stitches; the other half of the pattern is then completed;
+1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of
+the next scallop of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1
+chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop.
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_231" id=
+"page_231">[231]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the
+preceding row, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl of
+the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the following
+purl, 1 purl (the 3 purl which are worked on the 3 purl of the
+bell-shaped pattern are made in this row and in the following one
+as follows:--Crochet 1 chain after the slip stitch, leave it for 1
+purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip stitch), 1 purl, 5
+chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the
+following scallop, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. 12th row: 3
+purl on the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 3 chain between, 1
+purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of
+the next 5 chain stitches, 1 bell-shaped pattern like those of the
+10th row, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>CROCHET D'OYLEYS IN IMITATION OF POINT LACE.</p>
+
+<p>262--<em>D'Oyley No</em>. 1.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, unite it.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_232" id=
+"page_232">[232]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> * 1 double crochet, 9 chain, repeat from * 7
+times more, 1 double crochet, unite it to the 1st stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 3 single crochet up the 3 1st of the chain in
+last row, *, 5 long into the loop of 9 chain, 1 chain, repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 long into the 1 chain in last round, 9
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 11 double crochet into the 9 chain in last
+round, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, 5 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> The same as 6th.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> * 1 double crochet, 4 chain, repeat from * 5
+times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 4 long, and
+1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet over the double crochet in
+1st round, 6 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 6 chain in last round 1 double
+crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet over the one in 3rd round, 8
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Into the 8 chain 1 double crochet, 8 long, 1
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in 5th round, 10
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> Into the 10 chain 1 double crochet, 10 long, 1
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in 7th round, 12
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> Into the 12 chain 1 double crochet, 12 long,
+1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 11:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in 9th round, 14
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 12:</em> Into the 14 chain 1 double crochet, 14 long,
+1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 13:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in 11th round, 14
+chain, repeat. Work 3 patterns of No. 2 for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it. Into the
+circle 1 double crochet, *, 2 long, 3 chain, repeat from * twice
+more, 2 double long, 4 chain, 2 double long, * 3 chain, 2 long,
+repeat from * twice more, 1 double crochet, 7 chain. Repeat from
+the beginning. In working the 2nd pattern, join it to the 1st with
+the 2nd 3 chain, work 3 leaves in this manner, then make only 3
+chain, and work a 4th leaf without joining it to the 3rd, make 3
+chain after 4th leaf, and work a stitch of double crochet into last
+7 chain, make 3 chain. Work a 5th leaf, and join it to the 4th as
+before, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 7 chain, 3 chain.
+Work a 6th leaf in the same way, and join it; but make no chain
+stitch after the 6th leaf. Work 3 patterns of No. 3 for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_233" id=
+"page_233">[233]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 4.--The same as No. 3, only work 4 leaves instead of 6, 2 on
+each side. Work 3 patterns of No. 4 for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 5.--Work the 3 1st leaves of No. 3 This is not repeated in
+this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_262"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 1." src=
+"images/image262.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 6.--Make a chain of 15 stitches, and unite it. Work into the
+circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double, 6 long, 5 chain, 6
+double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet, 7 chain, joining the 7th
+long stitch to the corresponding stitch in 1st leaf, 3 chain. Work
+the 3rd leaf the same as the 1st without joining it to the 2nd, 3
+chain, 1 double crochet into <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_234" id="page_234">[234]</a></span> the 7 chain, 3 chain,
+work a 4th leaf, and join it to the 3rd, 3 chain, and join it to
+the 1st stitch of double crochet at the beginning of the 1st leaf.
+This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 7.--Tie a round of cotton about this size O.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 20 double crochet into the round.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into successive loops, work 2
+into 3rd loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> Into the 5 chain in last round 2 long, 5
+chain, 2 more long stitches into the same place, 2 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1
+double crochet, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in
+this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 8.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 28 double long into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet between each long in last
+round.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 3 long into the 2 chain, 1 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 chain in last
+round, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 9.--1st row: Make a chain of 30 stitches, work 1 long stitch
+into the 6th, *, 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, 1 long into the
+next, repeat from * to the end of the row.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 11 chain, *, 1 double crochet on the other
+side of the chain into the centre one of the 3 between the long
+stitch, 1 chain, turn, and work into the 11 chain 3 double crochet
+and 9 long, 11 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, work into the
+chain stitches at the end 3 loops of 11 chain with the double
+crochet and long stitch as before, then work the other half of the
+pattern to correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Into the space between the long stitches 5
+double crochet, 2 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in
+this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_235" id=
+"page_235">[235]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 10.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Into the circle 24 double long, with 1 chain
+between each.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into the 1 chain in last
+round, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last
+round, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 11.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 20 long into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet, 6 chain, miss 2 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet into the 6 chain, 7 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 10 double crochet into the 7 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 long, 2 long into the next loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 3 loops,
+repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 12.--Make a chain of 21 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 30 double crochet into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> *, 21 chain, join it to the 18th, work into
+the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2
+long, 7 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long and 1
+double crochet, 1 single crochet into the 1st double crochet, 3
+chain, 4 double crochet into the 3 chain, 2 chain, 6 double crochet
+into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3
+chain, 4 double crochet into the same place, 2 chain, 6 double
+crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4 double crochet into the 3
+chain, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the stitches of double
+crochet at the end, 3 single crochet down the 3 for the stem, 9
+single crochet into successive loops round the circle, repeat from
+* twice more. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 13.--*, make 9 chain stitches, turn, 1 double crochet into
+each loop, repeat from * twice more, then work round both sides of
+these 3 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_236" id=
+"page_236">[236]</a></span> points 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss
+1 loop at the top of each point, work twice into the same loop,
+then 5 chain, 1 double crochet into each end, unite the 5th to the
+last of the centre point of 9. This pattern is not repeated in this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 14.--<em>Round 1:</em> * make a chain of 13 stitches, and
+unite it, repeat from * 4 more times.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into 6 successive loops, 3
+stitches into the 7th, 1 into each of the next 6 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the centre 1 of the 3 in last, 7 chain, miss 6, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat. This pattern is not repeated.</p>
+
+<p>No. 15.--*, make a chain of 19 stitches, unite it, 3 long into
+successive loops, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain,
+1 double crochet into the next loop, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into
+the same place, 5 chain, work into successive loops 1 double
+crochet, 2 long, 3 double long, 3 long, unite the last to the
+first, 9 chain, repeat from * once more, then 5 double crochet into
+the 5 1st of the 9 chain, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each, and
+1 into each of the 4 remaining of the 9 chain. This pattern is not
+repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 16.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, *, work into successive
+loops 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, 2 more double
+crochet into the same loop as the last, repeat from * once, make a
+chain of 24 stitches, unite to the 20th, work into the circle, *, 1
+long, 3 chain, 1 long, repeat from * 12 times, work into the 3
+chain 1 long, 3 chain, work another long into the same place,
+repeat, join the last with 1 single crochet to the last of the 24
+chain, 2 double crochet over the 2 of the leaf, 7 long into
+successive loops, 4 double long into successive loops, 4 long into
+the next loop, and 1 long into the next. This pattern is not
+repeated. When all these pieces are done, join them as shown in the
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_237" id=
+"page_237">[237]</a></span> engraving, sewing them firmly together
+with the same cotton, then work an edging round in the following
+manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 double long into the 4 chain at the point of
+the leaf of No. 4 pattern, 7 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3
+chain in the same leaf, 8 chain, 1 double long into the 1st 3 chain
+of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4
+chain of No. 6 pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of the
+next leaf in the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5
+chain from the join of the 11th pattern, 6 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the 2nd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 6 chain, 1 long into
+the 2nd 5 chain from the last, 12 chain, work into the 2nd 5 chain
+from the join of the 7th pattern 1 long, 8 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the next 5 chain, 9 chain, 1 long into the next 5 chain, 8
+chain, 1 double crochet in the 1st 3 chain from the join of 4th
+pattern, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd
+leaf of the same pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3
+chain of the same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain
+of No. 5 pattern, 6 chain, 1 long into the 7 chain between the
+leaves of the same pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 7 chain,
+6 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of the 3rd leaf of the same
+pattern, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 of double
+crochet from the join of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the centre of the 2nd 5 double crochet from the last, 11
+chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd 5 of double crochet from the
+last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of 15th pattern,
+7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 6th long stitch of the same
+leaf, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the end of the stem of 15th
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 double long into the 1st 3 chain of the 4th
+pattern, 4 chain, 1 double long into the last 3 chain of the same
+leaf, 9 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3 chain of the 2nd leaf,
+12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 3 chain of No. 16 <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_238" id="page_238">[238]</a></span>
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of the same pattern
+from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join
+of the 10th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the
+last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre of the 7 of double
+crochet in 12th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 5 double crochet
+of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain in
+centre of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the
+join of the 8th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5
+chain from the last, 10 chain, 1 double long into the 3rd 5 chain
+from the stitch of single, 13 chain, and join it to the double long
+stitch at the beginning of the row.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> *, 12 chain, and unite it, 1 chain to cross,
+and on the other side into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3
+chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 double long, 4 chain, then work down the
+other side to correspond, 8 double crochet into successive loops of
+the foundation, repeat from *, joining the leaves in the 1st 3
+chain.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>263.--D'Oyley No. 2.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet, 2 double crochet into the
+next loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 9 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 9 double crochet into successive loops,
+beginning on the 5th of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_239"
+id="page_239">[239]</a></span> the 9 in last round, 5 chain, 1
+single crochet into the last double crochet, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 9
+in last round, 11 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> 15 double crochet into the 11 chain in last
+round, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> 15 double crochet into successive loops,
+beginning on the 8th of the 15 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the last double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 11:</em> 1 double crochet into the centre one of the
+15 in last round, 17 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 12:</em> 21 double crochet into the 17 chain in last
+Round.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_263"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 2." src=
+"images/image263.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_240" id=
+"page_240">[240]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> *, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the circle,
+repeat from * twice more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 12 long into the 7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 2 long into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 2 long into the 2 chain in last round, 1
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 5 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6
+double long, 4 chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 2 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 long and repeat, 4
+long at the point, finish with a single stitch, 3 chain, and repeat
+this once more.</p>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, chain of 15
+and unite it, chain of 13 and unite it, work 6 double crochet into
+successive loops, beginning on the 1st of the 1st loop of 13, 3
+into the next loop, and 1 into each of the 6 next, 1 double crochet
+into each of the 1st 7 of the loop of 15, 3 into the next, 1 into
+each of the next 7, 1 double crochet into each of the 6 1st of the
+next loop of 13, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 5.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Into the circle 3 double crochet, 3 long, 3
+double long, 5 treble long, 3 double long, 3 long, 3 double
+crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into each of the 9 1st loops,
+2 into each of the 2 next, and 3 into the next, 2 into each of the
+2 next, and 1 into each of the 9 next.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 long, *, 3 chain, 1 long into the next loop,
+repeat from * at the end, unite the last to the 1st stitch, 9
+chain, repeat from the beginning; in uniting the last stitch of the
+2nd <span class="newpage"><a name="page_241" id=
+"page_241">[241]</a></span> leaf, take up the centre stitch of the
+9 chain with it, make 5 chain, and work a 3rd leaf in the same
+manner; in uniting the last stitch of the 3rd leaf, take up the
+last of the 5 chain with it, make 9 chain, turn, and work 1 double
+crochet into each, join the last to the last of the 5 and 9 chain
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p>No. 6.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 5 chain, repeat
+5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, 1
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1st double crochet
+in last round, 7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 7 chain in last round 2 double
+crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet
+in last round, 11 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Into the 11 chain in last round 3 double
+crochet, 9 long, 3 more double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 7.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Make a chain of 20 stitches. 1 long into the
+15th, *, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from *
+to the end of the row.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Turn, into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 2
+long, 1 double crochet, repeat this to the end, then into the 5
+chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 1 double
+crochet, work the other side to correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet
+in last row, 7 chain, and repeat to the point, 7 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the double long, work the other side to
+correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Into the 7 chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1
+single into the last double crochet, 4 more double crochet into the
+same place, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 8.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 chain of 7 stitches, 1 double crochet into
+each of the 6 1st, 3 stitches into the 7th, work on the other side
+of the chain to correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 5 double crochet into the 3 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_242" id=
+"page_242">[242]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 9.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 3 in the 1st d'oyley, only 5 leaves instead of
+6, 2 on each side, and 1 at the end; 2 of these will be required
+for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 10.</p>
+
+<p>Work the 2 1st leaves of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley; 3 of these
+will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 11.</p>
+
+<p>Work only 1 leaf of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley. This is not to be
+repeated in this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 4 in 1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 13.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 5.</p>
+
+<p>No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 8 in 1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 15.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 10.</p>
+
+<p>No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 11 in the 1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 17.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No. 2 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be
+required.</p>
+
+<p>No. 18.</p>
+
+<p>The same as No 6 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required.
+When all these pieces are done, sew them firmly together, and work
+the edging round in the following manner:--1 double crochet into
+the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the
+last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3
+chain of 2nd leaf, 10 chain, 1 double crochet in the 4 chain of
+same leaf, 8 chain, 1 long into the 4th of the 5 chain, from the
+joining of 15th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5
+chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the last, 12
+chain, 1 long into the last 3 chain of 10th pattern, 3 chain, 1
+double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 4 chain of 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 1st
+double crochet from the join of No. 6 pattern, 9 chain, 1 long into
+the next stitch of double crochet after the long stitch, 16 chain,
+1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of 14th pattern, 8 chain,
+1 double crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_243" id="page_243">[243]</a></span>
+chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of double
+crochet, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 12 chain, 1
+double crochet into the 4 chain of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the last 3 chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into
+the 1st 14 chain from the join of 17th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long
+into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 14 chain, 1 long into the
+4th 5 chain from the join of 16th pattern, 6 chain, 1 double
+crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 6 chain, 1 long into the
+2nd 5 chain from last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 4
+chain of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3
+chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain
+of 2nd leaf, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 2nd
+leaf, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 10th
+pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of same
+pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd
+leaf, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 11th pattern,
+9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same pattern, 8
+chain, 1 long into the centre 3 chain of 1st leaf of 12th pattern,
+7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf same
+pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf,
+10 chain, 1 long into the 5th 3 chain from the join of the 3rd
+pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 3 chain, 4 chain, 1
+long into the 2nd 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the
+1st 14 chain from join of 17th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the
+next 14 chain of same pattern, 10 chain, and unite. 2nd row: The
+same edging as to 1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_244" id=
+"page_244">[244]</a></span>
+
+<p>264.--<em>D'Oyley No. 3.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 3
+in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 4 in same d'oyley, and 1
+pattern from No. 5, 2 patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, 1
+pattern from No. 7, 1 pattern from No. 8; and 1 from No. 10 in same
+d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 11 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No.
+2 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern
+from No. 9 in same d'oyley, and 2 from No. 10.</p>
+
+<p>Then 1 pattern in the following manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Make a chain stitch of 12 stitches, 1 double
+crochet, 10 long into successive loops, 1 double crochet, 1 double
+crochet at the point, and work down the other side to
+correspond.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 long into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into
+the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 3rd
+round, 5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>Work 1 pattern in this way, 1 chain of 14, 1 double crochet into
+each, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last double crochet, turn,
+6 double crochet into the circle, with 3 chain between each, into
+each 3 chain, 5 long, turn, 1 double crochet between each of the 5
+long, with 6 chain between each double crochet, turn, into the 1st
+double crochet 1 long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 treble
+long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 long all into the same
+place, 1 double crochet into the 6 chain. Repeat this 5 times more,
+then work down the 7 of 14, 7 long, and 7 of single crochet. The
+edging to be the same as in the former d'oyleys. The 1st round of
+the edging takes up so much space to write, that we think it better
+to leave it to the judgment of the worker. It <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_245" id="page_245">[245]</a></span> will be
+seen by the engraving when it is necessary to work a double long or
+long stitch, or a stitch of single or double crochet, and the
+number of chain stitches between must be just sufficient to make
+the circle perfect. The best way is to cut a round of blue paper
+and place them on it from the engraving, then sew them together,
+and tack them to the paper, and work the 1st row of the edging
+before removing the paper.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_264"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 3." src=
+"images/image264.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_246" id=
+"page_246">[246]</a></span>
+
+<p>265.--<em>D'Oyley No. 4.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Work 3 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 1
+pattern from No. 4, 1 pattern from No. 5 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns
+from No. 6, and 1 from No. 8 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2
+in 2nd d'oyley, and 1 leaf from No. 3 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern
+from No. 11 in 2nd d'oyley, and the following pattern.</p>
+
+<p>No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 29 double
+crochet into successive loops, turn, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 2
+double long, 8 treble long into 4 loops, 8 double long, 9 long, 4
+double crochet, 3 chain, work down the other side to correspond,
+then 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all round.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 20 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 2 double crochet
+into successive loops, * 2 chain, miss two loops, 1 long into the
+next, repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 3 double
+crochet into successive loops, 1 double crochet into every loop on
+both sides.</p>
+
+<p><em>Next round:</em> * 5 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, 1 double
+crochet, 3 long, miss 2 loops of the foundation, 1 double crochet,
+repeat from * at the point, miss only 1 loop, work 2 patterns of
+this number.</p>
+
+<p>No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>Make a chain of 36 stitches, turn, miss 2 loops, 2 long, *, 1
+chain, 3 long, repeat from * 3 times, 1 double crochet, turn, *, 4
+chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st chain stitch, repeat from * 3
+times, at the point make 5 chain instead of 4, work down the other
+side to correspond, turn, and into each of the 4 chain 1 double
+crochet, 7 long, and 1 double crochet, at the point 10 long instead
+of 7, 2 double <span class="newpage"><a name="page_247" id=
+"page_247">[247]</a></span> crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 28,
+turn, miss 12 loops, 1 single crochet, then into the circle 20
+long, turn, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, 1
+double crochet into the 5 chain in last row, 5 chain, repeat, turn,
+into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 7 chain, repeat, turn, into the
+7 chain 1 double crochet, 1 long, 7 double long, 1 long, 1 double
+crochet, repeat, work down the stem, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 4
+double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 1 chain of 14, turn, miss 3
+loops, 10 long, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, turn, 1 <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_248" id="page_248">[248]</a></span>
+double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, into the 3
+chain 1 double crochet, 5 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down
+the stem in double crochet.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_265"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 4." src=
+"images/image265.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> Into the circle 16 long.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into each loop, 3 chain after
+each.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 4 long into the 3 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat. *, for the leaves, 1 chain of 22, turn, 4 double crochet, 1
+long, 9 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, 1 chain to cross the
+stem, on the other side 1 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1
+long, 4 double crochet, 2 double crochet at the point, work down
+the other side to correspond, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1
+chain of 8, repeat from *, 1 chain of 12, and unite it to the 3
+chain of the round, turn, 12 double crochet down the stem, work
+another leaf in the same manner, then work a stem of 8, and make
+another leaf the same as before, finish with a stem of 8.</p>
+
+<p><em>No. 5.--Round 1:</em> Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite
+it, 1 double crochet, miss 3 loops, 12 chain, repeat twice
+more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet, 13 long, 2
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 2 double crochet into successive loops, 13
+long into successive loops, 2 double crochet into successive loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 long, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> Into the 5 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long, 2
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 6.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 long, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> Into the 5 chain 3 double crochet, 3 chain, 1
+single crochet into the last double crochet, 3 more of double
+crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 long into the 4 chain, 7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> Into the 7 chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1
+single crochet into the last double crochet, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_249" id="page_249">[249]</a></span> 4 more
+double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. When all these
+pieces are done sew them together, as shown in the engraving, and
+work the edging to correspond with the other d'oyleys.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>266.--<em>D'Oyley No. 5.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20; and 1 skein of fine embroidery cotton, by the same makers.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat
+5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 7 chain 11 stitches of double
+crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 11, 9
+chain, miss 5 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, 9 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 9 chain 13 double crochet,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 13, 7
+chain, miss 3 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, and
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 7 times
+more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 6 chain, miss the 1st, then work into
+successive loops 2 double crochet and 3 long, 1 double crochet into
+the 1 double crochet in 1st round, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 5
+chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double long, 1 double
+crochet into the 5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in the 3rd round,
+5 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Same as 4th.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_250" id=
+"page_250">[250]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 5th round, 6
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, 2 double long.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> Same as 7th.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> Same as 8th. Two of these patterns will be
+required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_266"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 5." src=
+"images/image266.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 16, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 double crochet
+into the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 6 double crochet into successive loops, 5
+chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 3rd of the 6, 13
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_251" id=
+"page_251">[251]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 17 double crochet into the 13 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 long and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop
+between each.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 1 chain, 1
+double crochet into the next chain, 5 chain, work another double
+crochet into the same place, 1 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat
+6 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, and 2 double long, 1
+double crochet into the last of the 5 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet at the top of the point, 4
+chain, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, miss 2
+loops, 1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, 1 double crochet
+into the 1 in last round. Work the other side of the point to
+correspond. Two of these patterns will be required for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 5.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops, 5 double crochet and 2 long, miss 1 of the last
+round, work 4 double crochet into successive loops, repeat 3 times
+more, at the end of the round work 4 more double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat
+all, round the 4 points and 2 stitches beyond the 4th, 7 chain, 1
+double crochet into each of the 7, finish the round with 3 chain
+and 1 double crochet as before.</p>
+
+<p>No. 6.--Make a chain of 5 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 4 times
+more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain,
+repeat till 5 double crochet are done, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 7
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Same as 2nd.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_252" id=
+"page_252">[252]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 3rd round, 7
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> Same as 2nd.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> Same as 5th.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> Same as 2nd, only 4 chain instead of 3.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1 in 7th round, 8
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> The same as 8th, only making 5 chain instead
+of 4. Four of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 7.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat
+twice more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2
+double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat, 11 chain, work 2 more leaves in the same way, 1 double
+crochet into the 3 chain, 4 chain, repeat round 2 sides of the
+leaf, 3 chain, repeat the stitch of double crochet and 4 chain
+round 2 sides of each leaf, joining them with 3 chain. Two of these
+patterns will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 8.--<em>1st row:</em> Make a chain of 14 stitches, miss the
+1st, and work into successive loops 5 double crochet, 5 long, 3
+double long, turn.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 2 double long into each of the 3, 9 long into
+successive loops, 5 long into the double crochet at the point of
+the leaf, 9 long into successive loops, 6 double long into the next
+2 loops, 9 double long into the end of the 1st row, unite the last
+to the first double long in 2nd row.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat. No loop to be missed at the point, then work with the
+embroidery cotton a smaller leaf on it in satin stitch, raising it
+first with the cotton.</p>
+
+<p>No. 9.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 20 long into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet, taking both sides of the
+loop, 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> Double crochet into the centre of the 9 chain,
+7 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_253" id=
+"page_253">[253]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 7 chain of last row 1 double crochet,
+1 long, 3 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, then work
+2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2
+patterns with 3 leaves from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns with 2
+leaves, and 1 pattern with 1 leaf, work 3 patterns from No. 6 in
+1st d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>When all these patterns are done join them as shown in the
+engraving, and work the edging as directed in the former
+d'oyleys.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>267.--<em>D'Oyley No. 6</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 2 double crochet into 1 loop, and 1 into the
+next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> Increase to 30 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain,
+5 double crochet, and repeat 5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 5:</em> 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 5
+in last round, 11 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 6:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 7:</em> 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st, 12
+double crochet, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 8:</em> 1 double crochet into the 6th of the 12, 15
+chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 9:</em> 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 10:</em> 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 1 double crochet, 2 long, and 3 double long, miss
+5 loops of the last round, work 1 double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 11:</em> 1 double crochet over the 1 in last round,
+miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, *, 3 chain, miss 1
+loop, repeat from * 4 times more, repeat from the beginning of the
+row.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 30 double crochet into the circle.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> 1 double crochet, 13 chain, miss 5 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_254" id=
+"page_254">[254]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> 17 double crochet into the 13 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> 1 long, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd
+of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. Four patterns of this number
+will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_267"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 6." src=
+"images/image267.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 double crochet, 11 chain, miss 1 loop,
+repeat 3 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 11 chain, *, 3 double crochet, 5
+chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, repeat from * twice
+more, 3 more double crochet, repeat from the beginning of the
+row.</p>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 6, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 1:</em> 1 long, 4 chain, repeat 5 times more.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_255" id=
+"page_255">[255]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>Round 2:</em> Into the 4 chain in last row 1 long, 4 chain,
+work another long into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 3:</em> Into the 2 chain 3 double crochet, into the 4
+chain 1 double crochet, 11 chain, work another double crochet into
+the same place, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>Round 4:</em> Into the 11 chain 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1
+single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 7
+chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 7, 3 double crochet, 5
+chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double
+crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 3 in
+last round, 2 chain, repeat; then work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st
+d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns from No. 4, 3 from No. 6,
+and 1 each from Nos. 11, 13, and 14 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from
+each of Nos. 3 and 4 in 2nd d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 2 in 5th
+d'oyley, and 1 pattern each from Nos. 4 and 6 in the 5th d'oyley.
+Sew these pieces firmly together as shown in the engraving, and add
+the edging as before.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>268.--<em>D'Oyley No. 7.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20; and 1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 16 stitches and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st Round:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 1 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 1 double crochet, 9 chain, miss 3 loops,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Into the 9 chain 11 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> Into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain,
+1 single crochet into the one double crochet, work another double
+crochet into the 2 chain, 2 double crochet into the next 2 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_256" id=
+"page_256">[256]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 2 in
+last round, 13 chain, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Into the 13 chain 11 double crochet,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, work 1 double crochet into
+each, make a chain of 15 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each,
+make a chain of 13 stitches, 1 double crochet into each.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double crochet into the end of each of these
+points, then work round <em>both</em> sides of these points in
+double crochet, working twice into the end of each point.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 3 double crochet over the 3 at the beginning
+of last row, *, 4 chain, single crochet into the 1st of the 4
+chain, miss 1 loop, work a long stitch into the next, repeat from *
+all round, at the beginning and end of the 3rd point miss 2 loops
+instead of 1, then work a stitch of double crochet into the 1st of
+the 3, 6 chain, miss the 1st, work into successive loops 2 long and
+3 double crochet, 1 double crochet into the last of the 3. This
+completes the pattern.</p>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 2 double
+crochet into the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 2 double crochet into successive loops, 2
+double crochet into the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> 11 double crochet into successive loops, *,
+9 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 11 double crochet over the 11 in last round,
+work into the 9 chain 5 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the chain, 5 more double crochet into the same
+place, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> 13 double crochet over the 11 in last round,
+*, 15 chain, 1 double crochet over the 1st of the 5 in last round,
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 13 double crochet over the 13 in last round,
+*, work into the 15 chain 8 double crochet, 5 chain, work a stitch
+of single crochet into the 1st of the 5, 8 double crochet into the
+same place, repeat from *. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_257"
+id="page_257">[257]</a></span> This completes the pattern. Then
+work a circle in satin stitch on the plain part of the pattern with
+the Fine Embroidery Cotton. Two of these patterns will be required
+for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_268"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 7." src=
+"images/image268.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make a chain of 16 stitches, and unite it. * make a
+chain of 10 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_258" id=
+"page_258">[258]</a></span> stitches, miss the 1st, and work into
+successive loops 3 double crochet, 3 long, and 3 double long, unite
+the last double long to the 4th of the 16 chain in the circle,
+repeat from * 3 times more, *, work in single crochet to the top of
+the point and down 6 stitches of the other side, then make a chain
+of 8 stitches, miss the 1st, work into successive loops 3 stitches
+of double crochet, 2 long, and 2 double long, unite the last to the
+3rd of the next point, and repeat from * 3 times more. Three of
+these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. Work 2 patterns
+from No. 2 in the 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the
+same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 5, and 1 from No. 6 in 1st
+d'oyley, work 2 patterns with 1 leaf from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and
+1 pattern with 2 leaves, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the 5th
+d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, and 1 from
+No. 6, work 6 patterns from No. 3 in the 6th d'oyley, and 1 pattern
+from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 6th
+d'oyley. Join these pieces as before, and add the same edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>269.--<em>D'Oyley No. 8</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20; and 1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 9 stitches, work a stitch of
+double crochet into each of the 8 1st, work 2 into the 9th, work
+down the other side of the chain to correspond, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> *, Work 1 long, make 4 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat from
+*. No loop to be missed at the point. When this round is finished,
+make 10 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 long,
+and 7 of double crochet, then make 15 chain, unite to the 7th, and
+work into the circle 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, repeat 5 times
+more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3
+long, and 1 of double crochet, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Work 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1
+loop, and repeat. Three of these patterns are required for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_269"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 8." src=
+"images/image269.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_259" id=
+"page_259">[259]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work 2 double crochet into each loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 1 double crochet, make 9 chain, miss 1
+loop, repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Work into the 9 chain 1 long, make 1 chain,
+work another 1 long into the same place, make 1 chain, work a third
+1 long into the same place, make 7 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Work into the centre of 3 long 2 long, make
+5 chain, work 2 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_260" id=
+"page_260">[260]</a></span> more long into the same place, make 5
+chain, work into the centre of the 7 chain 1 double crochet, make 3
+chain, work another of double crochet into the same place, make 5
+chain, and repeat. Two of these patterns will be required for this
+d'oyley. Work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern
+from Nos. 3, 4, and 6, work 1 pattern with 3 leaves from No. 3 in
+1st d'oyley, and 2 with only 1 leaf, work 1 pattern from each of
+Nos. 13 and 14 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from 2 in 5th
+d'oyley, and 1 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 2 patterns from
+No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, work 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley,
+and 2 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 1 in
+7th d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3, and 1 pattern from No. 4
+in 7th d'oyley, then sew them together as before.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>270.--<em>D'Oyley No. 9</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite ir.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain,
+repeat 11 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 1 double crochet into every loop.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> *, Make 11 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work 10
+double crochet down the chain, miss 1 loop, work 7 double crochet
+and repeat from * 5 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Work 1 double crochet, beginning on the 1st
+of the 10, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make
+5 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1
+double crochet into the point, work down the other side to
+correspond, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make
+2 chain, miss 3 loops, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Work into each of the 5 chain 1 double
+crochet, 5 long stitches, and 1 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work a stitch of double crochet into 1 loop,
+work 2 double crochet into the next, repeat.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_261" id=
+"page_261">[261]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * Work 3 double crochet, make 5 chain, work
+1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat from * 9 times
+more, work 2 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * Make 21 chain stitches, work 1 double
+crochet in the centre one of the 3, turn, work 7 double crochet
+into the 21 chain, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st
+of the 5 chain, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, repeat
+from * 8 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Work 15 double crochet into each loop of 21
+chain, above the last 7 work 20 double crochet into the last loop
+of 21, make 5 chain, turn, work 1 single crochet into the last of
+the 5 chain, 7 double crochet, make 4 chain.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Work 19 double crochet, beginning on the 1st
+of the 7 in the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_262" id=
+"page_262">[262]</a></span> 1st loop of 21 chain, * make 6 chain,
+turn, miss 1 loop, work into successive loops a stitch of double, 3
+long, 1 double long, then miss 4 double crochet stitches, work 5
+double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, 1 single
+crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, 5 double crochet
+into successive loops, repeat from * 8 times more, then work 12
+double crochet. Two of these patterns will be required for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_270"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 9." src=
+"images/image270.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain,
+repeat 9 times more.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, make
+17 chain, work another stitch of double crochet into the same
+place, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into the next 3 chain,
+make 1 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Work into the 17 chain 20 double crochet,
+work 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, work 1 double
+crochet into the next 1 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Work a stitch of double crochet into the 1
+chain in last round, * work 5 double crochet into successive loops,
+beginning on the 1st of the 20, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet
+into the 1st of the 5, repeat from * twice more, then work 5 double
+crochet into successive loops, and repeat from the beginning of the
+round. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 4.--Make 21 chain and unite it, make a chain of 27 and unite
+it, make a chain of 21 and unite it.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work in the 21 chain 25 stitches of double
+crochet, work into the 27 chain 31 double crochet, work into the 21
+chain 25 double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work 3 stitches of <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_263" id="page_263">[263]</a></span> double crochet into
+successive loops, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st
+of the 5 chain, repeat this 6 times more, then work 3 double
+crochet and repeat from the beginning in the centre loop, repeat
+this 9 times instead of 7. Two of these are required for this
+d'oyley.</p>
+
+<p>No. 5.--Make a chain of 44 stitches, work 1 double crochet into
+each, turn, make 21 chain, work 1 double crochet into the 4th chain
+on the other side, * make 21 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double
+crochet into the next, repeat from * 9 times more, work 1 single
+crochet into the end loop, work 44 double crochet into successive
+loops, work 15 double into the 1st loop of 21, work 4 double
+crochet into each loop of 21, and 15 into the end one, then * work
+2 double crochet, make 3 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st
+of the 3, repeat from * all round.</p>
+
+<p>Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 from No. 3, 2 with
+3 leaves, and 2 with 2 leaves, from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2
+patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, and 3 patterns from No. 3 in
+6th d'oyley, sew them together as shown in the engraving, and add
+the edging as before.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>271.--<em>D'Oyley No. 10</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 19 stitches, turn, miss 5 loops,
+work 10 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 long,
+make 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, work 1 long stitch, make 3
+chain stitches, work a stitch of double crochet into the last loop,
+then work into the 1st 3 chain on the other side, 1 double crochet,
+5 long, work into the next 3 chain 4 long stitches, work 4 long
+stitches into the next 3 chain stitches, then work into the 5 chain
+at the point 8 long stitches, then work down the other side to
+correspond, * make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_264" id="page_264">[264]</a></span> work 1 long, make 1
+chain, work 1 long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work
+another long stitch into the same place, miss 1 loop, work 1 double
+crochet, repeat from * 7 times more, then work into the 1st 3 chain
+1 double crochet, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch, * make 1, work
+1 double long stitch, repeat from * twice more, make 1 chain, work
+1 long; all these stitches are worked into the same 3 chain, then
+work 1 double crochet into the chain stitch between the 2nd and 3rd
+long <span class="newpage"><a name="page_265" id=
+"page_265">[265]</a></span> stitches, repeat this 7 times more;
+this finishes the leaf; then make 16 chain, and work a second leaf
+the same as 1st, then work 2 double crochet down, then make 12
+chain, and work a third leaf the same as 1st, work 14 stitches down
+the stem, and work a 4th leaf the same as 1st, work 8 double
+crochet down the stem, work a 5th leaf the same as 1st, make a
+chain of 40 stitches, turn, and work back in double crochet.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_271"><img alt="D'Oyley No. 10." src=
+"images/image271.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 2.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it, *, work a
+stitch of double crochet into the circle, make 13 chain, and repeat
+from * five times more, then work 17 stitches into each of the 13
+chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, beginning on the
+second of the 13, *, make 5 chain stitches, and work a stitch of
+single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, then work 2 stitches of
+double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more; for the stem make a
+chain of 30 stitches, turn, * work 5 stitches of double crochet,
+make 5 chain, turn, and work a stitch of single crochet into the
+1st, repeat from * 4 times more, then work down the other side to
+correspond; then work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2
+from No. 3, 2 with only two leaves, and 2 from No. 6 in the same
+d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, and 3 from No. 3
+in 6th d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 9th d'oyley, and 1
+from No. 3; work 3 patterns from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, sew the
+pieces together as before, and work the edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>272 <em>and</em> 273.--<em>Work-Basket in Straw and Silk
+Crochet-Work</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch
+wide; small glass beads; a piece of bamboo cane.</p>
+
+<p>This basket has a cover formed of two pieces. It can be employed
+for <span class="newpage"><a name="page_266" id=
+"page_266">[266]</a></span> many things, and is formed entirely of
+crochet-work with brown silk over straw. A ruche trimmed with beads
+and bows of brown silk ribbon form the trimming of the basket. The
+straws over which you crochet must be damp, so as not to be stiff.
+They should be of unequal length, and when you join the two ends of
+two straws together, try to hide the beginning with the other
+straws. Begin the basket in the centre of the bottom part with 46
+stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of this first row,
+working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches, the
+double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the last
+round over wire.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_267" id=
+"page_267">[267]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_272"><img alt="Bottom of Work Basket (272)."
+src="images/image272.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_268" id=
+"page_268">[268]</a></span>
+
+<p>It is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep
+the work flat. When you have finished the bottom begin the border
+of the basket, which is worked of the same piece with it, and
+consists of 11 rounds.</p>
+
+<p>It is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds
+without increasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9
+rounds increase 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the
+edge may be a little wider in the upper part. In the last round add
+a piece of wire to the straws.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_273"><img alt=
+"Work Basket in Straw and Crochet." src=
+"images/image273.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. Begin in the
+middle with 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half
+circle, working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each
+row turn the straws, and take care that the rows which are finished
+form a straight line. Each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the
+last one is worked over wire. The two halves are united at the
+straight sides by a brown silk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is
+sewed on underneath, and which forms a sort of hinge; sew on also a
+piece of wire covered with brown silk, so as to make the hinge
+stronger. Form the handle with a piece of bamboo cane 23 inches
+long, and covered with straws; work over it in long stitches of
+brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of the basket; then
+sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, which forms the
+two parts. Trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats,
+ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>274 <em>and</em> 275.--<em>Two Crochet Borders</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton Nos. 30
+and 80.</p>
+
+<p>No. 274.--Crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border
+(No. 30 and No. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of
+stitches of the length required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_274"><img alt="Crochet Border." src=
+"images/image274.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 double in each stitch of the chain.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Turn and work on the opposite side of the
+chain, * 1 double, 11 chain, miss 7. Repeat from *. <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_269" id="page_269">[269]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> * 1 double on the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain,
+1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are under the 1st
+loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain. Repeat
+from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of
+chain, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st, but before you complete the
+treble stitch make 1 chain. Repeat from *. This row completes the
+upper half of the border. The lower half is worked over the 1st row
+of plain double crochet.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15
+chain, miss 9, 1 double, come back over the loop of chain and work
+1 double in each stitch, come back again and work 6 small points,
+each made thus: 5 chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each
+of the 3 others, 1 double over the round scallop. When you have
+worked the 6 small points repeat from *, but always join the 1st
+point of one scallop to the last point of the next scallop. The
+pattern inside the scallops is worked in 2 rows with fine cotton.
+(See illustration.)</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_275"><img alt="Crochet Border." src=
+"images/image275.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 275.--The border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled
+up with lace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl
+(<em>i.e</em>., 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the 1st). When the
+chain is long enough, turn and work <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_270" id="page_270">[270]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>the 1st row:</em> Alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the
+centre stitch between the 2 purl.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st
+loop of 7 chain, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre
+of next loop, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>The 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side
+of the chain with purl. * In each of the 8 first stitches work 1
+double, make 12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked,
+and work 1 double in the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and
+work 7 small points over it. For each point make 3 chain, work 1
+double in the 2nd, 1 treble in the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double
+upon the loop of chain. Repeat from * 6 times more.</p>
+
+<p>In the following scallops always fasten the first point of one
+scallop to the last point of the preceding scallop. When this row
+is completed fill up the inner part of each scallop with a network
+of fine thread, joining the threads at all the places where they
+cross each other by 2 or 3 stitches with a sewing needle.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>276.--<em>Crochet Antimacassar</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 18 reels of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's
+Head cotton No. 10</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_271" id=
+"page_271">[271]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_276"><img alt="Crochet Antimacassar." src=
+"images/image276.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square
+one, and is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. Make a
+chain of 4 stitches, and unite it</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain
+stitch, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain,
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain
+stitches, miss 1 loop, and repeat. <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_272" id="page_272">[272]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last
+round, make 7 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long
+stitches, and 2 more double crochet, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in
+last round, make 9 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> Into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, * make 4
+chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5
+chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make
+1 chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 1 long stitch into the loop formed with the
+5 chain, make 12 chain, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into
+successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of
+the 2 next loops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double
+crochet, 5 long stitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain,
+miss 1 loop, work 2 double crochet into successive loops, make 4
+chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain,
+and repeat. This completes the circle. 120 circles sewn together
+like the engraving will make a good-sized couvrette, 12 in the
+length, and 10 in the width. If a round couvrette is wished, work 1
+circle for the centre larger than the others; this can be done by
+repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then sew 8 circles round the
+centre one, and increase the number of circles in each row till you
+have made it the size you wish. For the square one, tassels are
+required for the end and sides; these are made by winding the
+cotton over a cardboard 4 inches deep about 80 times, then twist 8
+threads of the cotton into a cord, cut the cotton wound on the
+cardboard at one end, make 2 inches of the cord into a loop and tie
+it firmly with the middle of the tassel, then turn it, tie a thread
+tightly round, about an inch below the cord, and net over the head;
+40 of these tassels will be sufficient.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_273" id=
+"page_273">[273]</a></span> 277.--<em>Crochet Insertion</em>.
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No.
+40.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_277"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image277.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The patterns of this insertion are worked in a row, and always
+two opposite circles at a time. Make a foundation chain of 16
+stitches, join them into a circle, then work a 2nd circle
+consisting again of 16 chain stitches. Work round this circle 24
+double stitches, and 24 double round the 1st circle; after the last
+stitch begin again at the 2nd circle, and work 10 chain scallops as
+follows:--3 double in the next 3 stitches, * 5 chain, 2 double in
+the next 2 stitches, repeat 8 times more, 3 double in the last 3
+stitches; work in the same manner round the other circle. To get to
+the next pattern, work 4 slip stitches between the 2 circles in the
+middle of the just-completed pattern, leaving the cotton under the
+work and drawing it through the stitch upwards through the loop on
+the needle; 7 chain stitches, and then 2 circles like those just
+described, and so on.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>278 <em>and</em> 279.--<em>Tobacco Pouch in Crochet
+Work</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Black purse silk; crimson ditto; gold thread.</p>
+
+<p>The pouch is begun at the bottom, in the centre of the star.
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_274" id=
+"page_274">[274]</a></span> With crimson silk make a chain of 3
+stitches, and join it into a circle. Work 4 rounds of double
+crochet, 2 stitches in each stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> 2 crimson stitches, 1 gold stitch, and so
+on.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> All gold stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> 2 crimson stitches, 2 gold, and so on.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> All crimson stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em> 3 crimson stitches, 2 gold, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th round:</em> Similar to the preceding. <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_275" id="page_275">[275]</a></span></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_278"><img alt=
+"Star for Tobacco Pouch, No. 279." src=
+"images/image278.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_276" id=
+"page_276">[276]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>11th round:</em> 4 gold stitches, 3 crimson, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th round:</em> 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches over the
+2 centre gold stitches of preceding round, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round:</em> 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th round:</em> 1 gold stitch, 6 black stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th round:</em> 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th round:</em> 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>17th round:</em> 4 gold stitches, 2 over the black stitches
+of preceding round, and 1 on either side, 4 crimson stitches,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p><em>18th round:</em> 2 gold stitches over the centre ones of
+preceding round, 7 crimson stitches, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Now work 4 plain crimson rounds, and begin the pattern from No.
+279. The centre is crimson, and the pattern is black and gold. The
+border round the top is of the same colours.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_279"><img alt="Tobacco Pouch." src=
+"images/image279.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Complete the work by 2 rounds of open treble crochet, and 1
+round of gold scallops.</p>
+
+<p>In the open rounds pass a double cord of black silk, finished
+off with small balls of black silk gimp and gold; and on either
+side of the pouch fasten one of these same balls with two tassels,
+one crimson and one black. The pouch is lined with white kid.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>280 <em>and</em> 281.--<em>Crochet Rosettes</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 4,
+24, or 40.</p>
+
+<p>These rosettes are suitable for trimming cuffs, collars, and
+bodices, or for making couvrettes, according to the size of the
+cotton with which they are worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_280"><img alt="Crochet Rosette.] " src=
+"images/image280.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>280.--Make a foundation chain of 22 chain; join them into a
+circle and work the 1st round; 44 double.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * 7 chain, missing 3 stitches of the
+preceding round under them, 1 double; repeat 10 times more from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 1 slip stitch in the first 4 stitches of the
+next scallop, * 5 chain, miss the last and work back on the other
+4, 1 double, 1 treble, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_277" id=
+"page_277">[277]</a></span> 1 long treble, 1 double long treble
+(throw the cotton 3 times round the needle), 1 slip stitch in the
+middle stitch of the next scallop; repeat 10 times more from *.
+Work a wheel in the centre of the rosette, which is ornamented with
+a circle of chain stitch, as can be seen in illustration; take up
+one thread of the wheel with every other chain stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_281"><img alt="Crochet Rosette." src=
+"images/image281.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>281.--Begin the rosette with a leaf-like pattern in the centre,
+and work <em>the 1st row:</em> * 11 chain, miss the last, work back
+over the following 8 stitches, 1 double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, 1
+double long treble, 2 long treble, 1 treble, 1 double in the upper
+part of the chain stitch before the last, 1 slip stitch in the
+lower part of the same stitch. The first leaf of the middle pattern
+is then completed; repeat 6 times more from *. Join the first and
+last leaves together by working 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the 11
+chain stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> (Fasten on the cotton afresh), 1 slip stitch
+in the point of each leaf, 12 chain between.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> 24 double in each scallop. The rosette is
+then completed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_278" id=
+"page_278">[278]</a></span>
+
+<p>282.--<em>Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in
+Appliqu&eacute;, and Velvet Ribbon</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_282"><img alt=
+"Crochet Trimming, with Embroidered Flowers worked in Appliqu&eacute; and Velvet Ribbon."
+ src="images/image282.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This trimming consists of 2 strips of crochet insertion,
+ornamented with embroidery patterns worked in appliqu&eacute;, and
+velvet ribbon drawn through. They are worked the long way with fine
+crochet cotton. Begin on a sufficiently long foundation chain of
+stitches which can be divided by 20, and work the<em>1st row:</em>
+1 chain, * 5 double, on the first 5 stitches of the foundation, 1
+leaf, as follows:--10 chain, without reckoning the loop left on the
+needle, 1 extra long treble (for which the cotton is <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_279" id="page_279">[279]</a></span> wound 5
+times round the needle) in the second of the 10 chain, a similar
+treble in the first, then cast off the 2 treble stitches together,
+wind the cotton once round the needle, and cast off the last loop
+with the loop left on the needle. Miss under the leaf 15 stitches
+of the foundation, and repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 5 double on the 5 double of the preceding row,
+inserting the needle in the whole stitches, 15 chain stitches
+between.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> * 5 double in the first 5 double of the
+preceding row, 7 chain, 1 slip stitch in every other stitch of the
+next scallop of the preceding row, 7 chain between, 7 chain
+stitches; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of
+the preceding row, 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of
+each of the 8 scallops, consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row,
+3 chain between, 3 chain; repeat from *. These 2 last rows (the
+third and fourth) are repeated on the other side of the foundation
+chain.</p>
+
+<p>When the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together
+so that 2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the
+embroidery patterns and velvet ribbon.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>283.--<em>Crochet Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers
+or pillowcases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. If
+the insertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower
+border on which the button-holes are made. Begin the insertion in
+the middle of one of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain
+of 9 stitches; join them into a circle by making 1 slip stitch, and
+crochet thus:--* <span class="newpage"><a name="page_280" id=
+"page_280">[280]</a></span> 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of
+these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the
+circle, repeat from * 5 times more. Work 4 slip stitches in the
+next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5 double divided by
+5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. Fasten the thread after
+having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slip stitch to the
+1st double stitch of this round. This completes the star-like
+figure. Work on one side of these figures the following rows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four
+placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1
+treble in the last of the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st
+scallop of the following 4 placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in
+the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd scallop, 3
+chain. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding
+row, * miss 3 stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch.
+Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on
+the next 3 stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. Repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_281" id=
+"page_281">[281]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding
+row, * 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3
+double on the next 3 stitches of the preceding row. Repeat from *.
+After having worked these four rows likewise on the other side of
+the star figures, work over the last the following 5 rows for the
+button-holes:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double
+in the next purl. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> 1 double in each stitch of the preceding
+row.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which
+miss 7 stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Like the 2nd row.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row;</em> * 3 double on the next 3 double of the
+preceding row, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double
+stitch). Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_283"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image283.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>284.--<em>Crochet Insertion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No.
+30.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton
+on a double foundation chain. For the outer edge work a row of purl
+stitches as follows:--1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1
+purl, consisting of 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1
+double in the next stitch but 2; repeat from *. The open-work
+centre consists of 6 rows of scallops; the 1st of these rows is
+worked on the other side of the foundation chain; 1 double in the
+middle stitch of every scallop, 5 chain between, then 1 row of slip
+stitches, and finally a row of purl <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_282" id="page_282">[282]</a></span> stitches like the 1st row
+of the insertion. For the raised flowers, which are fastened over
+the grounding at unequal distances, * make a foundation chain of 10
+stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from illustration by
+taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the 1 chain of
+the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of the
+10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1
+long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then
+1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches
+under them, 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. Each
+following row consists of 1 double in the middle stitch of every
+scallop of the preceding row, 9 chain between. Then work the 1st
+row of the border on the other side of the insertion; 1 double in
+the 1st stitch of the foundation, inserting the needle into the
+back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times more from *, and the flower
+is completed.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_284"><img alt="Crochet Insertion." src=
+"images/image284.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>285.--<em>Crochet Garter</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round
+white elastic cord; a pearl button.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_283" id=
+"page_283">[283]</a></span>
+
+<p>This garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic
+cord; the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey
+thread.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_285"><img alt="Crochet Garter." src=
+"images/image285.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool;
+take the elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little,
+and work over it. Work on both sides of the foundation chain; the
+pattern is completed in the course of the two first rounds; the
+button-hole is made at the beginning of the first round; make a
+loop of 21 stitches, and, when you come to it, work over this loop
+instead of over the foundation chain. Increase the number of
+stitches at either end of the garter, to round it off. When the
+second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then a plain
+red one. The last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately 1
+double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first,
+missing 1 stitch under the 1 purl. Sew on a pearl button to
+correspond with the button-hole. The garter would be both more
+elegant and more elastic if worked entirely in silk.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_284" id=
+"page_284">[284]</a></span>
+
+<p>286.--<em>Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton, and a
+needle to match.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of
+old guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and
+sleeves, and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size.
+Both strips of rosettes join at that place, and one is continued
+for the part round the bosom and the other for the sleeve. In the
+pattern there are 42 rosettes round the bosom, and 14 round each
+sleeve. These rosettes are fastened one to another in the course of
+the work. They are made in the following manner:--Make a chain of 6
+stitches, and join it into a ring.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> 8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain,
+which forms a purl (the 3 first chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1
+chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to
+form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring. Repeat 6 times from *.
+Instead of the last treble, work a slip stitch to fasten the end of
+the round to the 3 chain of the beginning, which thus form 1
+treble.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned as 1
+treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain.
+Repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the
+beginning.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> On each scallop of preceding round work 2
+double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. This
+completes the rosette. Each rosette is fastened to the last by
+joining the 2 middle purl of both. In the illustration, which is
+full-size, the purl that are to be joined to those of another
+rosette are marked by a cross. The joining between the part round
+the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same manner. The space left
+between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star formed of chain
+stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk. For this
+star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms the <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_285" id="page_285">[285]</a></span>
+centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8
+purl that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch.
+Repeat 7 times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them
+together 3 of these stars are required for each shoulder.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_286"><img alt=
+"Crochet Trimming for a Lady's Chemise." src=
+"images/image286.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_286" id=
+"page_286">[286]</a></span>
+
+<p>For the Border.--It is worked at the same time both round the
+bosom and sleeves.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st
+scallop of the rosette, which we will call the <em>first
+rosette</em>; 5 chain, 1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd
+scallop of the same rosette, 4 chain; then work the kind of cross
+which comes between each rosette (see illustration). To make this
+cross throw the cotton 3 times round the needle, work 1 double
+treble in the last purl left free of the 1st rosette, keep the last
+loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round it, and work a
+double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd rosette, throw
+the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the loop left
+on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last double
+treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. Repeat from * at
+each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1
+slip stitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come
+to the next space, where a cross is to be made.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Work alternately 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2;
+at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over the 6 chain. The
+two rounds just explained are also worked round the upper edge, and
+finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1 double in one
+of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the
+6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next but one
+of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, 1
+chain, 1 double in the next space. Repeat from *. On the upper edge
+of the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1
+round of crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the
+needle, so that the treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain
+between each cross.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_287" id=
+"page_287">[287]</a></span>
+
+<h2>KNITTING</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_288" id=
+"page_288">[288]</a></span> <a name="KNITTING_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+
+<h3>KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_289" id=
+"page_289">[289]</a></span>
+
+<p>287.--KNITTING, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is
+by no means so ancient as lacemaking. Knitting has never entirely
+quitted the hands of English and German ladies; indeed, among all
+good housewives of any civilised country, it is reckoned an
+indispensable accomplishment. Knitting schools have been
+established of late years both in Ireland and Scotland, and Her
+Majesty the Queen has herself set an example of this industry, as
+well as largely patronised the industrial knitters of Scotland. Of
+the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at present
+ignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the
+following instructions are offered.</p>
+
+<p>To knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread,
+cotton, silk, or wool are required.</p>
+
+<p>Knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the
+size to be used depends entirely upon the material employed,
+whether thread, cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting.
+As the size of the needles depends upon that of the cotton, a
+knitting gauge is used (see No. 287). The gauge (page 290) is the
+exact size of Messrs. H. Walker and Co.'s knitting gauge. Our
+readers will remark that English and foreign gauges differ very
+essentially; the finest size of German <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_290" id="page_290">[290]</a></span> needles, for
+example, is No. 1, which is the size of the coarsest English wooden
+or ivory needle. Straight knitting is usually done with two needles
+only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &amp;c., three, four,
+and five needles are employed.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_287"><img alt="-Knitting Gauge." src=
+"images/image287.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>288.--<em>Casting On</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This term is used for placing the first row or round of knitting
+stitches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two
+ways--by "knitting on" the stitches, or as follows:--</p>
+
+<p>Hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left
+hand, throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a
+loop, and pass the needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly
+round the needle, pass it through the loop, and draw up the thread;
+this forms the first stitch (see No. 288).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_288"><img alt="Casting On." src=
+"images/image288.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>289.--<em>To Knit On</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_289"><img alt="Knitting On." src=
+"images/image289.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Take the needle on which the stitches are cast in the left hand,
+and another needle in the right hand--observe the position of the
+hands <span class="newpage"><a name="page_291" id=
+"page_291">[291]</a></span> (No. 289). Hold the left-hand needle
+between the thumb and third finger, leaving the first finger free
+to move the points of the needles. (The wonderful sense of touch in
+the first or index finger is so delicate, that an experienced
+knitter can work without ever looking at her fingers, by the help
+of this touch only--in fact, knitting becomes a purely mechanical
+labour, and as such is most useful.) Insert the point of the
+right-hand needle in the loop or stitch formed on the left-hand
+needle, bring the thread once round, turning the point of the
+needle in <span class="newpage"><a name="page_292" id=
+"page_292">[292]</a></span> front under the stitch, bringing up the
+thread thrown over, which in its turn becomes a stitch, and is
+placed on the left-hand needle.</p>
+
+<p>290.--<em>Simple Knitting (plain)</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_290"><img alt="Plain Knitting." src=
+"images/image290.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Pass the right-hand needle into the 1st stitch of the left-hand
+needle, at the back throw the thread forward, and with the first
+finger pass the point of the needle under the stitch in forming a
+fresh stitch with the thread already thrown over, as in "knitting
+on," only, instead of placing the newly-formed stitch on the
+left-hand needle, leave it on the right-hand needle, and let the
+stitch drop off the point of the left-hand needle. Continue thus
+until all the stitches are taken from the left to the right-hand
+needle, and the row is then complete.</p>
+
+<p>291.--<em>To Purl, Pearl, or Seam</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Seaming or purling a stitch is done by taking up the stitch
+<em>in front</em> instead of at the back, throwing the thread over
+and knitting the stitch as in plain knitting; but before beginning
+to purl, the thread must be brought in front of the needle, and if
+a plain stitch follows, the thread is passed back after the purl
+stitch is made (see No. 291).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_291"><img alt="Purling." src=
+"images/image291.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>292.--<em>To Increase</em>. <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_293" id="page_293">[293]</a></span> Increasing or making a
+stitch is done by throwing the thread once round the needle and in
+the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_292"><img alt="Increasing." src=
+"images/image292.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>293.--<em>To Decrease</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This is done in two ways: <em>firstly</em>, taking up two
+stitches and knitting them together as one; <em>secondly</em>, by
+taking up a stitch without knitting it, called slipping, then by
+knitting the following stitch in the usual way, and then slipping
+the 1st (unknitted) over the 2nd (knitted) (see No. 293). When it
+is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed thus:--Slip
+one, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknitted stitch
+over the two knitted together.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_293"><img alt="Decreasing." src=
+"images/image293.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_294" id=
+"page_294">[294]</a></span>
+
+<p>294.--<em>Round Knitting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>To knit a round four or five needles are used; it is thus that
+stockings, socks, cuffs, mittens, &amp;c., are made. To knit with
+four needles, cast on, say, 32 stitches upon one needle, insert a
+second needle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on 30
+stitches; proceed in a similar way with a third needle, but casting
+on 28 only; when this is done, knit the two extra stitches on the
+first needle on to the last; this makes 30 stitches upon each
+needle, and completes the round.</p>
+
+<p>295.--<em>Casting Off</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Knit two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slip the first
+stitch over the second; continue this to the end of the row.
+<em>Note</em>.--The last knitted row, before casting off, should be
+knitted loosely. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_295" id=
+"page_295">[295]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>296.--<em>To Pick up a Stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This is done by taking up the thread between two stitches and
+forming a stitch with it.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>The following Designs of New Stitches can be used for a variety
+of work:--</p>
+
+<p>297.--<em>Peacock's Tail Pattern</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Needles, wood or ivory; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting
+cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_297"><img alt="Peacock's Tail Pattern." src=
+"images/image297.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, as it takes nine
+stitches for each pattern, and two for each border; the border,
+which <span class="newpage"><a name="page_296" id=
+"page_296">[296]</a></span> is in plain knitting, will not be
+mentioned after the first row.</p>
+
+<p>1<em>st Row</em>.--2 plain for border; 2 plain *, make 1, 1
+plain, repeat this four times from *, make 1, 2 plain; repeat from
+the beginning--then 2 plain for border.</p>
+
+<p>2<em>nd Row</em>.--2 purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_298"><img alt="Spiral Stitch." src=
+"images/image298.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>3<em>rd Row</em>.--Take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 together;
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>4<em>th Row</em>.--Purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 together;
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>5<em>th Row</em>.--Take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2
+together.</p>
+
+<p>Begin from the 1st row.</p>
+
+<p>Thirteen stitches are large enough for a stripe for a
+sofa-cover. These stripes should be sewn together after all are
+finished.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_297" id=
+"page_297">[297]</a></span>
+
+<p>298.--<em>Spiral Stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Needles, thick steel or bone; double wool.</p>
+
+<p>This stitch is far more effective worked in thick wool than in
+cotton. It is done in stripes alternately wide and narrow. For wide
+stripes cast on twenty-one stitches, for narrow fifteen; this
+without counting the first and last stitch, the first being
+slipped, the last always plainly knitted.</p>
+
+<p>1<em>st Row</em>.--Purl 3 together to end of row.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd Row</em>.--Make 1, * 1 plain, make 2, repeat from * end
+by making the last stitch before the plain knitted one at end of
+row.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_299"><img alt="Knotted Stitch." src=
+"images/image299.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_298" id=
+"page_298">[298]</a></span>
+
+<p>299.--<em>Knotted Stitch</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Needles, wood or ivory; double wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 11 stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st Row</em>.--All plain, throwing the wool twice round the
+needle before each stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd Row</em>.--Each stitch on the needle is now composed of
+3 threads of wool: knit the first plain, the second purl, the third
+plain; cast off the second over the third, and the first over the
+second; this leaves but one stitch; repeat from first row until a
+sufficient length is obtained. This pattern makes very pretty
+borders.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>300.--<em>Knitted Moss Borders</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Steel needles; moss wool of several shades of
+green.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on enough stitches for double the width required, say
+twenty, and knit very tightly in plain knitting, row by row, until
+a sufficient length has been obtained. Cut off and place the strip
+on a sieve over a basin of boiling water, and cover it over. When
+it has absorbed the steam, and while wet, iron it with a box-iron.
+Then cut the strip down the centre, and unravel the wool on each
+side. The threads of wool all curling, resemble moss. They are held
+firmly by the selvedge of the knitting.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>301.--<em>German Brioche Stitch</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Wood or ivory needles; wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on an even number of stitches.</p>
+
+<p>All the rows are knitted as follows:--Slip 1, taken as for
+purling, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_299" id=
+"page_299">[299]</a></span> make 1, take 2 together. In the
+following rows the made stitch must always be slipped, the
+decreased stitch and the slipped stitch of the previous row knitted
+together.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_301"><img alt="German Brioche Stitch." src=
+"images/image301.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Ordinary Brioche Stitch is made by casting on an even number of
+stitches, and working the rows as follows:--</p>
+
+<p>Make 1, slip 1, take 2 together; repeat. <em>Note</em>.--The
+made stitch and the slipped stitch of the previous row must always
+be knitted together, and the decreased stitch of that row
+slipped.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_300" id=
+"page_300">[300]</a></span> NETTING. <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_301" id="page_301">[301]</a></span> <a name=
+"NETTING_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+
+<h3>NETTING INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<p>302.--NETTING is one of the prettiest and one of the easiest
+accomplishments of a lady. The materials are simple, while the
+effects produced by good netting are most elegant and of great
+durability. One great advantage of netting is that each stitch is
+finished and independent of the next, so that if an accident
+happens to one stitch it does not, as in crochet or knitting, spoil
+the whole work.</p>
+
+<p>Netting, so easy to do, is most difficult to describe. The
+materials required are--a netting-needle and mesh (see illustration
+No. 302). These are made of bone, of wood, of ivory, and most
+commonly of steel. The wood, bone, and ivory are only used for
+netting wool, the steel for silk, cotton, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The needle is filled by passing the end of the thread through
+the little hole at the left-hand point, and tying it; then the
+thread is wound on the needle as on a tatting shuttle. The needles
+are numbered from 12 to 24; these last are extremely fine. The
+meshes correspond to the sizes of the needles, and are made of the
+same materials. The larger the size of the stitch required the
+thicker the mesh must be selected; indeed, large hat meshes are
+often used for some patterns. A stirrup to slip over the foot to
+which the foundation is attached is required by those who do <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_302" id="page_302">[302]</a></span>
+not use a netting cushion, placed before them on the table and
+heavily weighted; to this the foundation is fastened.</p>
+
+<p>The stirrup is made of a loop of ribbon, to which the foundation
+is tied. Some ladies work a pretty stirrup of the exact shape of a
+horseman's stirrup; a loop of ribbon is passed through this, and
+the foundation fixed as before.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_302"><img alt="Needle and Mesh." src=
+"images/image302.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>303.--<em>To Net</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Place the mesh under the thread, between the thumb and finger of
+the left hand; it must rest on the middle of the finger and be held
+only by the thumb (see illustration No. 303). Take the needle in
+the right hand, pass the thread over the middle and ring finger and
+over the mesh, pass the needle upwards and behind the mesh in the
+large loop which forms the thread round the fingers, and at the
+same time through the first stitch or loop of the foundation. Draw
+the needle out, retaining the loops on the fingers and dropping
+them off, the little finger being the last to release the thread.
+As the thread tightens and the knot is firm, the loop on the little
+finger should be drawn up quickly and smartly. The next stitches
+are precisely similar, and row upon row is formed in the <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_303" id="page_303">[303]</a></span>
+same manner. Having learnt the stitch, the next task is to make a
+foundation. Tie a large loop of strong thread on the stirrup
+ribbon, and net fifty stitches into this loop, then net four or
+five rows, and the foundation is ready.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_303"><img alt="Netting." src=
+"images/image303.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Simple netting as above explained forms diamonds or lozenges.
+When a piece of netting is finished it is cut off the foundation,
+and the little ends of thread that held the stitches are drawn
+out.</p>
+
+<p>304.--<em>Square Netting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Is done precisely in the same manner as plain netting, only
+begin from one stitch, then net two stitches into this first, and
+increase by making two in the last loop of every row. As soon as
+the right number of stitches is complete diminish exactly in the
+same way by netting two stitches as one at the end of each row
+until one stitch alone remains. These squares are used for guipure
+d'art and for darning on.</p>
+
+<p>305.--<em>Round Netting</em></p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_304" id=
+"page_304">[304]</a></span>
+
+<p>Is nearly similar to plain netting. A little difference exists
+in the way of passing the needle through the stitch; this is shown
+in No. 305. After having passed the needle through the stitch it is
+drawn out and passed from above into the loop just made. This
+stitch is very effective for purses.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_305"><img alt="Round Netting." src=
+"images/image305.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>306.--<em>Diamond Netting</em></p>
+
+<p>Is often called "pointed netting," and is made by netting from
+one stitch, increasing one stitch at the end of each row, and
+decreasing in the same way, as described at page 303.</p>
+
+<p>307.--<em>To Net Rounds</em>.</p>
+
+<p>To form a circle, as for a purse, the needle must pass through
+the first stitch, keeping the last three or four on the mesh and
+removing this when required by the work. <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_305" id="page_305">[305]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>308.--<em>"English" Netting</em></p>
+
+<p>Is made as follows:--Net a row of plain netting, begin the
+second row by netting the second stitch, then net the first;
+repeat, always passing by one stitch and taking it up.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd Row</em>--Plain.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th Row</em>--Begin by a plain stitch, then continue as in
+the 2nd row.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th Row</em>--Plain.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_308"><img alt="English Netting." src=
+"images/image308.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>309.--<em>Lace Edging</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Begin by one stitch and net two in one at the end of each row
+until as many stitches are required for the narrowest part of the
+edge. * Increase one then in the two loops until the point of the
+edge or scallop is reached; at the next row leave the squares which
+form the point, and begin from *.</p>
+
+<p>310.--<em>Open Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This kind of edging is made with two meshes of different sizes
+and extremely fine crochet cotton.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_306" id=
+"page_306">[306]</a></span>
+
+<p>Tie the thread to the foundation, net 3 rows with the small mesh
+of the required length.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th Row</em>--On the large mesh, one stitch in each
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th Row</em>--On the small mesh take 3 stitches together to
+form 1 loop; repeat to end of row.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th Row</em>--On the large mesh make 5 loops in each stitch;
+repeat to end of row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_310"><img alt="Open Lace." src=
+"images/image310.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>7th Row</em>--On the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4
+first stitches, pass over the 5th, repeat to end.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th Row</em>--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the
+two first stitches, pass over the 4th; repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th Row</em>--On the small mesh make a loop in each of the
+two first stitches, pass over the 3rd; repeat.</p>
+
+<p>This lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim
+opera-caps, children's hoods, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>311.--<em>Shell Border</em>.</p>
+
+<p>This border is intended as an edging for square netting for
+couvrettes, d'oyleys, &amp;c. The mesh must be three times as long
+as that employed for the square netting.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_307" id=
+"page_307">[307]</a></span>
+
+<p>Make 12 stitches in the first stitch of the edge, pass over 8,
+make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. Then take the mesh used for the
+square netting, and net one stitch in each stitch, take a still
+smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row of one stitch in
+each stitch.</p>
+
+<p>This border forms a very appropriate edging for all articles in
+square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for trimming guipure
+d'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging the
+work; two sets of shells must be worked at the corners when a
+little fulness is required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_311"><img alt="Shell Border." src=
+"images/image311.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_309" id=
+"page_309">[309]</a></span> <a name=
+"KNITTING_AND_NETTING_PATTERNS"></a>
+
+<h3>KNITTING AND NETTING PATTERNS</h3>
+
+<p>312.--<em>Knitted Sock for a Child.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single Berlin wool; 1 yard of
+narrow pink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins.</p>
+
+<p>This sock fits well, and is easy to make. It is knitted upon two
+pins, backwards and forwards. Cast on 22 stitches and knit 22 rows,
+but increase once at the end of every other row on the right side
+of the work, so that there are 33 stitches in the 22nd row. Now
+cast off 28 stitches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the
+end of every other row. Now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at
+the end of every other row; this forms the toe. Cast on 28 stitches
+on the same needle, and knit 22 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the
+end of every other row, and cast off. Pick up the 68 stitches on
+the upper part of shoe, and knit 20 rows, alternately 2 plain and 2
+purl rows, decreasing 1 stitch on each side of the 12 stitches in
+every other row, which forms the toe and front of sock. Knit 14
+rows of 2 plain, 2 purl stitches alternately, then 3 open rows with
+1 plain row between. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_310" id=
+"page_310">[310]</a></span> The open rows are worked as follows:--*
+Purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1 open
+row, 1 plain row, and cast off. The sock is sewn together down the
+back of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to
+form the toe.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_312"><img alt="Knitted Sock." src=
+"images/image312.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>313.--<em>Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers,
+Couvrettes, Antimacassars, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton; 5
+steel knitting-needles of a corresponding size.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_313"><img alt=
+"Knitted Pattern for Counterpanes, Berceaunette Covers, &amp;c."
+src="images/image313.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>According to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful
+square makes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes,
+&amp;c. &amp;c. If <span class="newpage"><a name="page_311" id=
+"page_311">[311]</a></span> worked with Evans's cotton No. 10, it
+will be suitable for the first-mentioned purpose.</p>
+
+<p>Begin the square in the centre, cast on 8 stitches, 2 on each
+needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the 1st round.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_312" id=
+"page_312">[312]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1;
+repeat 3 times more from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Plain knitting. This knitted round is
+repeated after every pattern round. We shall not mention this
+again, nor the repetition from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p>The 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in
+every other round the number of stitches between the 2 stitches
+formed by throwing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in
+the 18th round 15 stitches are knitted between.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped
+over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>22nd round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the
+knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1,
+draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together,
+knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>24th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the
+knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the
+slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1,
+knit 2 together, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_313" id=
+"page_313">[313]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>26th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the first over the last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1,
+knit 1, draw the first over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit
+2, three times alternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>28th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+four times alternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1,
+draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch;
+knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, four times alternately throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>30th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+six times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1,
+draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1 six times
+alternately, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>32nd round:</em></p>
+
+<p><em>34th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, 7 times alternately
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit
+4 stitches together, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_314" id=
+"page_314">[314]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>38th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the, slipped over the knitted stitch, 8 times alternately knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>40th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw
+the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit
+3 stitches together as 1 stitch, 8 times alternately throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1. You now have 41 stitches on each
+needle; knit 1 round, and cast off. When completed, the squares are
+joined together on the wrong side.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>314.--<em>Knitted Sleeping Sock.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces
+light blue fleecy.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_314"><img alt="Knitted Sleeping Sock." src=
+"images/image314.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond
+pattern, and in rounds like a stocking. Begin at the upper part of
+the sock; cast on 103 stitches with blue wool on pretty thick steel
+knitting-needles, and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as
+follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st round:</em> Quite plain.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Purled; both these rounds are worked with
+blue wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd to 6th rounds:</em> Knitted plain with white wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em>With blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through
+the next stitch of the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out
+as a loop, keep it on the needle, knit again 3 stitches, and so on.
+8th round: With blue wool; the loop which has been taken up on the
+preceding round is purled off together with the preceding stitch.
+Repeat the 3rd and 8th rounds <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_315" id="page_315">[315]</a></span> twice more; the loop of
+one round must be placed between those of the preceding one. Then
+knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2 stitches knitted, 2
+stitches purled, then work the foot in the diamond pattern in the
+same way as usual for a stocking. The heel is formed by leaving 23
+stitches on each side the seam stitch, and knitted backwards and
+forwards in the diamond pattern. At the toe decrease so that the
+decreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. This is obtained
+by knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches of the 1st needle together; on
+the 2nd needle slip the 4th stitch before the last, knit the next
+stitch and draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one; decrease
+in the same manner on the other 2 needles of this round. Repeat
+these decreasings <span class="newpage"><a name="page_316" id=
+"page_316">[316]</a></span> exactly in the same direction and at
+the same places, so that there are always 4 stitches between the 2
+decreasings at the end and at the beginning of 2 needles; they
+always take place after 3 or 2 plain rounds, and at last after 1
+plain round. The remaining stitches are knitted off 2 and 2
+together. To complete the sock, the outline of the sole is marked
+by working slip stitches with blue wool in crochet all round it;
+work also slip stitches on the selvedge stitch of the heel. The
+stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops in
+blue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>315 and 316.--Netted Fichu or Cape.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle and
+meshes.</p>
+
+<p>This fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk
+used three or four times double. It may be worn as an evening wrap,
+either over a cap or on the hair, or as a necktie. The ground in
+our pattern is white, the border blue. The illustration of the
+ground and of the border, in full size, will serve as a guide for
+the size of the meshes to be used. For the ground cast on the first
+mesh, with white silk, 56 stitches; work 2 rows on the 56 stitches.
+From the 3rd row, always miss the last stitch, so that each row is
+decreased 1 stitch. Continue in this manner till the 39th row, when
+there will be but 19 stitches left. From the 40th row, miss 2
+stitches at the end of each row. The ground is completed with the
+46th row. The 1st row of the work is the <em>cross-way side</em>;
+the last, the <em>point at the bottom</em>; fasten on the blue silk
+to the 1st stitch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row
+round the ground of the fichu, not forgetting that the stitch on
+the outer edge at the sides must always be taken, and 2 stitches
+made in the 5th, 10th, 14th, 18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th stitches at
+the sides, as well as in each of the 2 middle stitches of the last
+row; in each of the other stitches 1 stitch should be made. On the
+corners of the sides increase <em>once</em>, on the cross-way side,
+seven times in all.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_317" id=
+"page_317">[317]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_315"><img alt=
+"Netted Fichu, or Cape, for Evening Dress." src=
+"images/image315.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_318" id=
+"page_318">[318]</a></span>
+
+<p>This forms the 1st round of the edging or lace.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_316"><img alt=
+"Showing the Netting full size for Border of Fichu." src=
+"images/image316.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>2nd round of the lace:</em> In each stitch make 2
+stitches--still on the larger mesh. 3rd round: Always miss the
+small flat scallop formed in last row, and work 2 stitches in the
+stitch which forms a tight loop. Keep thus the same number of
+stitches, with which work 6 more rounds. For the last round, work 1
+stitch in each <em>tight</em> loop.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>317.--Lady's Knitted Purse.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet
+ditto; black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a tassel of black
+beads; 5 steel knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_319" id=
+"page_319">[319]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_317"><img alt="Lady's Knitted Purse." src=
+"images/image317.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_320" id=
+"page_320">[320]</a></span>
+
+<p>This purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and
+ornamented with black beads and a black bead tassel. Begin the
+purse with the black silk in the centre of the bottom part, and
+cast on for one part of it 7 stitches. Knit 14 rows on these
+backwards and forwards, in such a manner that the work is knitted
+on one side and purled on the other. The 1st stitch of every row is
+slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * On that side where
+hangs the thread with which you work take the back chain of the 7
+selvedge stitches of the part you have just knitted on a separate
+needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the 1st
+row of which is knitted. Repeat 10 times more from *. The stitches
+of several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to be
+hindered in working by too many needles. When the 12th part is
+completed, take the selvedge stitches on the left hand on another
+needle, cast them off together with the cast on stitches of the 1st
+part, and fasten the silk thread. Then take the 7 right-hand
+selvedge stitches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk
+on which the beads have been strung and work 15 rows on these
+stitches, the 1st row from the wrong side, and therefore purled; in
+the 1st, as well as in all the other purled rows, the last stitch
+must be purled together with the next stitch of the next black
+part. In the purled rows, moreover, <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_321" id="page_321">[321]</a></span> excepting in the first
+and last one, a bead must be worked in after casting off the 2nd,
+4th, and 6th stitches. The stitch must be worked by inserting the
+needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk which
+has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch so
+that it is on the right side of the work. In the following knitted
+row, the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the
+bead stitch. When 12 such red parts have been completed, work again
+12 black parts on the selvedge stitch of the same, in which the
+beads are not knitted in, but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is
+completed. Then work 3 times more alternately 12 red and 12 black
+parts; when the last 12 black parts have been completed cast off
+the stitches of the last black part together with the selvedge
+stitches, the 1st on the wrong side; the stitches of the 6th part
+are cast off in the same manner together with the selvedge stitches
+of the 7th. The red parts which remain to be worked on the black
+part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and the 7th,
+8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. Then gather
+all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the 10 parts on 2
+needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the stitches and
+selvedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed
+on the sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk,
+first on the stitches of the one needle, and then on those of the
+other:--1 row knitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch;
+then work 3 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of
+stitches, which must be knitted on the right side; then work 8 rows
+more in the same manner, casting off the 2 first stitches of the 8
+rows. Then cast off all the remaining stitches, sew the beads on
+the black parts from illustration; also the clasp and bead
+tassel.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_322" id=
+"page_322">[322]</a></span>
+
+<p>318 to 320.--<em>Knitted Antimacassar or Berceaunelle
+Cover.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Grey and violot fleecy wool.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_318"><img alt="Square for Antimacassar."
+src="images/image318.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This antimacassar, part of which is seen on No. 320, smaller
+than full size, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are
+knitted separately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine
+knitting-needles. In the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted
+circle of grey wool. The edge of the antimacassar is ornamented
+with a grey woollen fringe. For each rosette cast on 6 stitches
+with violet wool, and knit 12 rows backwards and forwards in such a
+manner that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the
+other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, the first stitch of
+every row is slipped; * then take the first five selvedge stitches
+of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the side where the end
+of wool hangs down, leaving it unnoticed for the present),
+inserting the needle into the back chain of the stitch (the
+selvedge stitch which is next to the cast-on stitch remains,
+therefore, unworked upon), and knit on these a new part, which must
+have 13 rows; the first row is knitted, and in this row work 2
+stitches in the first stitch, one purled and one knitted, so that
+this new part is equally six stitches wide. Repeat 8 times more
+from *. After having worked several parts, the stitches can, of
+course, be taken on the same needle, so as not to increase the
+number of needles. When the 10th part is completed, <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_323" id="page_323">[323]</a></span> take
+the selvedge stitches of the left-hand side of the same on a
+separate needle, cast them off with the cast-on stitches of the
+first part, and fasten the wool. Then take the 6 selvedge stitches
+on the right hand of one part on a separate needle; take the grey
+wool, and work on these stitches 13 rows backwards and forwards;
+the first row is knitted; it is worked on the right side of the
+work; in this, and in every following <em>knitted</em> row, knit
+the last stitch together with the next stitch of the next violet
+part. When 10 such grey parts are completed (each of the remaining
+9 parts consists of 13 rows, and begins with one knitted row), take
+all the stitches and the selvedge stitches of these parts on four
+needles and knit with these stitches, also with <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_324" id="page_324">[324]</a></span> grey
+wool 1 row knitted, in which the 6 selvedge stitches must be
+decreased to 3 by knitting always 2 stitches together as 1 stitch;
+each of the other stitches is knitted as usual. Then purl 2 rows
+with violet wool, and cast off.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_319"><img alt="Rosette for Antimacassar."
+src="images/image319.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_320"><img alt="Part of Antimacassar." src=
+"images/image320.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For the tatted circle in the centre of the rosette, work with
+grey wool a circle consisting of 1 double, and 11 times alternately
+1 purl 3-10ths of an inch long, 2 double, then 1 purl and 1 double.
+The circle is sewn on the rosette, from illustration, with grey
+wool. No. 319 shows such a rosette full size. The small squares
+(<em>see</em> No. 318) are worked with <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_325" id="page_325">[325]</a></span> grey wool; cast on
+36 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and purl 2 rows. To
+form the corners, knit together 4 times 2 stitches after every 7
+stitches in the first of these two rounds, in the second round knit
+together 2 stitches after every 6 stitches; these decreasings and
+those of the other rounds must always take place, at the same
+places as in the preceding round. Then take the violet wool, and
+knit 7 rows; in the first of these knit 4 times 2 stitches together
+after intervals of 5 stitches; no decreasings take place in the
+2nd, 4th, and 6th rows; in the 3rd row knit together 4 times 3
+stitches as 1 stitch, and in the 5th and 7th rows 4 times 2
+stitches as 1 stitch. After the 7th round, the remaining stitches
+are cast off together as 1 stitch. Then fasten the wool and cut it
+off. Lastly, sew the rosettes and squares together from No. 320 for
+a cover, and edge it round the border with a fringe of grey
+wool.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_321"><img alt="Knitted Border." src=
+"images/image321.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>321.--<em>Knitted Border.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 10 or No. 50
+knitting cotton.</p>
+
+<p>If knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for
+trimming a quilt or berceaunette cover; if, on the contrary, fine
+cotton is used, the pattern will form a very pretty collar for a
+little boy or girl.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_326" id=
+"page_326">[326]</a></span>
+
+<p>To make a collar, begin by a chain of 220 stitches, and work 6
+rows backwards and forwards alternately, knitting 4 stitches and
+purling 2.</p>
+
+<p>In the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows the 4 stitches are purled, and the
+2 are knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> * Purl 2, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. Repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Alternately purl 5, knit 2. All the rows with
+<em>even</em> numbers are knitted like this, except that the number
+of the knitted stitches are increased by 2 in each of them. We will
+not, therefore, henceforth mention these rows.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> * Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl
+2. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> * Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2,
+purl 2. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> * Knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2,
+purl 2. Repeat from *. The pattern is continued in the same manner.
+The small gores formed between the ribs are increased by 2 stitches
+in every second row. Each of these gores has 13 stitches in the
+21st row, which is the last. Cast off all the stitches after this
+row.</p>
+
+<p>Take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as that used for
+the knitting work 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch of the
+selvedge, then the 2 following rows for the edging. 1st row:
+Alternately 1 treble, 1 chain, under which miss 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Alternately 1 double over 1 treble of
+preceding row, 1 purl (that is, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the
+first), under which miss 1. Over the first row of the knitting work
+1 row of close double crochet. The border is now completed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>322.--<em>Knee-cap in Knitting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: For 1 pair, 4 oz. pink 4-thread fleecy wool, and a
+small quantity of white ditto.</p>
+
+<p>Begin each knee-cap by casting on with pink wool 114 stitches,
+equally divided upon 4 needles, and joining them into a circle.
+Upon this number of stitches work 47 rounds, alternately knitting
+and purling 2 stitches. In the 48th round begin the gore which
+covers the knee; it is worked separately backward and forwards,
+always alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_327" id=
+"page_327">[327]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_322"><img alt="Knee-cap in Knitting." src=
+"images/image322.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>After 2 rows change the pattern, so as to form small squares
+Knit the first row of this gore upon 26 stitches slipped off from
+the last row on <span class="newpage"><a name="page_328" id=
+"page_328">[328]</a></span> to a separate needle. At the end of
+each following row knit the nearest stitch of the nearest needle,
+so as to increase 1 stitch in each row of the gore.</p>
+
+<p>Continue in this way until only 42 stitches remain of the ribbed
+part. After this work the remainder of the gore separately,
+decreasing once at the beginning and end of each row till only 26
+stitches remain; then take up 23 stitches of the selvedge on each
+side of these 26 stitches, and work 47 rounds, alternately knitting
+and purling 2 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>The edging at the top and bottom of the knee-cap is worked in
+crochet. With white wool make a chain of 50 stitches; turn and work
+1 row of crochet <em>&agrave; tricoter</em>; then work a second row
+thus: the first part, as usual, with white, but coming back, with
+pink make 4 chain between each stitch, work in the same way on the
+other side of the foundation chain, thus forming a small ruche, and
+sew it on to the edge of the knitting.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>323.--<em>Knitted Neckerchief in Black Shetland Wool.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Black Shetland wool.</p>
+
+<p>This three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following
+pattern (commencing at the corner).</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the
+needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2
+together.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in the preceding row; the other stitches
+are purled. In the next row the holes are alternated; the
+neckerchief must of course be increased at the beginning and end of
+every other row. It measures at the upper edge 1 yard 16 inches
+across from one corner to the other; the lower corner is rounded
+off. The neckerchief is edged with a knitted lace.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_329" id=
+"page_329">[329]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_323"><img alt=
+"Knitted Neckerchief in Shetland Wool." src=
+"images/image323.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_330" id=
+"page_330">[330]</a></span>
+
+<p>The lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross
+way. Cast on 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:--Slip 1,
+knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the
+stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool
+forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 5.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the
+stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool forward,
+purl 13.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2
+together, throw the wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2
+together, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in the preceding row, purl
+13.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times
+alternately; knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed
+by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately
+knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit
+1.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit
+2 together, 5 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_331" id=
+"page_331">[331]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>15th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit
+2 together, 4 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 3.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.</p>
+
+<p><em>17th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit
+2 together, 3 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>18th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9.</p>
+
+<p><em>19th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit
+2 together, twice alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, knit 5.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13.</p>
+
+<p><em>21st row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit
+2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>22nd row:</em> Slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row.</p>
+
+<p><em>23rd row:</em> Slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit
+2 together, knit 7.</p>
+
+<p><em>24th row:</em> Purled. Repeat from the 1st row till the lace
+is sufficiently long. Then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace
+can be knitted somewhat narrower for the upper edge. One of the
+ends of the neckerchief is knotted, As seen in the illustration,
+and the other end is drawn through the knot.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>324 and 325.--Knitted Bodice without Sleeves.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black
+silk elastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons.</p>
+
+<p>This bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple
+wool, so <span class="newpage"><a name="page_332" id=
+"page_332">[332]</a></span> that the raised ribs appear black on
+one side and purple on the other. The bodice fits quite close. It
+is fastened in front with black bone buttons and a steel buckle.
+Two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at the bottom. Begin at
+the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast on 170 stitches.
+The needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not too loose.
+Work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--Slip the 1st
+stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were
+going to purl it, and knit 1. In the next row knit together the
+stitch which has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the
+wool forward, slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool
+forward. In the 25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as
+before.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_333" id=
+"page_333">[333]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_324"><img alt=
+"Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Back)." src=
+"images/image324.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_325"><img alt=
+"Knitted Bodice without Sleeves (Front)." src=
+"images/image325.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with
+purple, but as the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be
+alternately knitted and purled. Work always 2 rows on the same side
+from right to left. The following 26th row is worked with black
+wool in common brioche stitch, only the slipped stitch of the
+preceding row is purled together with the stitch formed by throwing
+the wool forward. 27th row: Turn the work, with purple wool purled
+brioche stitch. 28th row: On the same side with black wool knitted
+brioche stitch. After having worked 40 rows all in the same manner,
+begin the front gore. Divide the stitches upon three needles, 82
+stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_334" id="page_334">[334]</a></span>
+each front part on the two other needles. Then work the first 11
+stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that
+side of the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted
+brioche stitch; the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with
+the wool thrown forward, therefore it is a purple rib. After this
+stitch begin the gore with the following 13 stitches. The ribs are
+then worked so that a purple one comes over a black one, and a
+black one over a purple one. Do not work upon the following black
+stitch; knit the following stitch with the one formed by throwing
+the wool forward. Throw the wool forward, and then only slip the
+black stitch which had been left, so that it comes behind the
+stitch which has just been knitted. This crossing of the stitch is
+repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together with
+the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool
+forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single
+black stitches. The slipped stitch and the stitch formed by
+throwing the wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are
+then knitted together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in
+opposite directions. The three black stitches which are knitted off
+together as 1 stitch in the next row form the middle line of the
+front gore, and are continued in a straight line to the point of
+the gore. The crossing takes place twice in this row, but now the
+black stitch is slipped first. After the 24th stitch knit together
+the following stitch with the stitch formed by throwing the wool
+forward. Then continue to work in common brioche stitch to the
+other front part, where the gore begins before the 24th stitch from
+the end. In the next row, which is worked in purled brioche stitch
+with black wool, take up the black loop between two purple ribs
+after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitch <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_335" id="page_335">[335]</a></span>
+which is missing at that place. The 3 slipped stitches in the
+preceding row are purled together as one stitch with the stitch
+formed by throwing the wool forward between the ribs. The loop is
+also taken up on the other side of the front gore in the same
+manner, as well as on the other front part. Then work 6 rows
+without increasing or decreasing. The crossing of the stitch is
+repeated after every 7 rows, always on the knitted brioche stitch
+side, with purple wool. In the 18th row of the gore the 3 middle
+stitches are not knitted together, but separately, so that the
+pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. In the back 30 stitches only
+must be decreased, two in every 6th row. After the 60th row another
+decreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for
+the neck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch
+from the front edge in every 3rd row. The 5 stitches which close to
+the neck are cast off together with the 5 stitches on the
+shoulders. Then cast off loosely the stitches of the back; take all
+the selvedge stitches of the front on the needles, and knit 24 rows
+of brioche stitch with black wool, making 9 button-holes on the
+right front part. On the wrong side of this part sew on a strip of
+black silk, with slits worked round in button-hole stitch,
+stitching at the same time into the knitting. The following
+scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round the
+armholes with black wool:--Take the selvedge stitches on the
+needles, work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch
+purled, thread the wool into a Berlin wool-work needle, * cast off
+3 stitches together, draw the wool through the needle, and take the
+2 following stitches on the wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from
+*. Sew on the buttons the strips of silk elastic on either side of
+the black stripe at the bottom, and fasten the ends of the latter
+with the steel buckle.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_336" id=
+"page_336">[336]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>326.--Baby's Boot.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin
+wool; steel knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a
+sock in white wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the
+upper scalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red
+wool, divide them on four needles, and knit in rounds as
+follows:--1st and 2nd rounds: With red wool, purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd to 8th round:</em> With white wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th round:</em> * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1,
+throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times
+more from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the
+wool forward are knitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at
+the place where 3 stitches were knitted together in the 4th round,
+so that the decreasing of the preceding round forms the middle
+stitch of the 3 stitches to be decreased in this round.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th and 7th rounds:</em> Like the 5th.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th to 11th round:</em>With red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th and 11th rounds:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th to 30th round:</em> With white wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round to 30th round:</em> Alternately purl 1, knit 1,
+inserting the needle in the back part of the stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>31st to 33rd round:</em> With red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>31st round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>32nd round and 33rd round:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>34th and 35th rounds:</em> With white wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>34th round:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>35th round:</em> Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together. Each stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is
+knitted as one stitch in the next round.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th to 38th round:</em> With red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th round: Knitted.</em></p>
+
+<p><em>37th and 38th rounds:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>39th to 47th round:</em> With white wool. Alternately purl
+1, slip 1, as if you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in
+front of the slipped <span class="newpage"><a name="page_337" id=
+"page_337">[337]</a></span> stitch; in the following rounds take
+care to purl the slipped stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_326"><img alt="Baby's Boot." src=
+"images/image326.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30
+stitches untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red
+wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>48th to 50th row:</em> With red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>48th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>49th row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>50th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>51st to 85th row:</em> With white wool in the pattern
+described in the 39th round. But as you work backwards and forwards
+you must alternately knit <span class="newpage"><a name="page_338"
+id="page_338">[338]</a></span> and purl the stitches. Decrease 1
+stitch at the beginning and at the end of the 84th and 85th rows;
+decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th row, so that the 85th
+row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>86th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>87th row:</em> Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl
+2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the
+94th, decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the
+whole number of stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the
+gored part and dividing them with the 30 other stitches on four
+needles. Knit once more in rounds; the next 20 rounds are
+alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round purled. In the 2 last knitted
+rounds decrease twice close together in the middle of the back part
+of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other round decrease twice in
+the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9 stitches between the
+two decreasings. The number of stitches between the decreasings
+decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form slanting
+lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by
+knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock
+part is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking
+all the red stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and
+knitting 4 rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch
+always outside; then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid
+through the open-work row in the sock part, and finish it off at
+either end with tassels to match.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>327.--<em>Knitted Border for a Bedquilt</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 8 white knitting
+cotton; thick steel pins.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the
+border, which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain
+rows:</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Alternately make 1, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_339" id=
+"page_339">[339]</a></span>
+
+<p>Then 5 more plain rows.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_327"><img alt=
+"Knitted Border for a Bedquilt." src=
+"images/image327.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Now begin the pattern:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> * Make 1, knit 1 <em>slantways</em> (to knit a
+stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and
+from right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # 4
+times more than from * to the end of the row. <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_340" id="page_340">[340]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em>Knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5;
+knit 1 slantways. Repeat from # four times more. Repeat from * to
+the end of the row.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> The same as the second.</p>
+
+<p>The continuation of the work is clearly shown in our
+illustration. The increasing caused by knitting the <em>made</em>
+stitches is regularly repeated in each second row, so that the
+stitches between the striped divisions increase, and form large
+triangles; the striped divisions, on the other hand, are narrowed
+so as to form the point of the triangles. To obtain this result,
+decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows, by
+purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so
+that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. In
+the 28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted
+slantways, so that there will be only 6 stitches left for each
+division; these stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th
+rows. In the 31st row they are knitted together, two and two. There
+remain in each division three more stitches, which are knitted
+together in the 34th row. Two rows entirely purled complete the
+upper edge of the border.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>328.--<em>Knitted Quilt.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different
+colours, and in that case each strip should contain 1 row of
+patterns; or the quilt may <span class="newpage"><a name="page_341"
+id="page_341">[341]</a></span> be composed of wide strips with
+several rows of patterns, those of one row being placed between
+those of the preceding. In the first case, that is if you work
+narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide strips are
+preferred, they should be of two colours only. Our pattern was
+worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. Each strip is
+knitted the short way.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_328"><img alt="Knitted Quilt." src=
+"images/image328.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Right side of the work. Slip 1, purl 1, * make
+1, purl 4. Repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_342" id=
+"page_342">[342]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled
+in the preceding row, and purl all those that were made.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4.
+Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all
+the rest.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4.
+Repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> The same as the 5th.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and
+so on.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> The same as the 5th row.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the
+slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from
+*.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> Knit all the purled stitches, purl all the
+rest.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the
+slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> The same as the 11th.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th row:</em> Slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the
+slipped stitch over, purl 4, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th row:</em> Slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. Repeat
+from * 3 times more; knit 2 together, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p>The second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. There are
+only 4 in this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you
+purl 3 stitches instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th
+made stitch, you purl 4 more stitches. Repeat alternately these 2
+rows of raised patterns, and when you have a sufficient number of
+strips sew them together. Trim the quilt all round with a knotted
+fringe.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>329.--<em>Stitch in Knitting, for Couvrettes, Comforters, Opera
+Caps, Carriage Shawls, Jackets, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No.
+20, or fine wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on an uneven number of stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Slip 1, * make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1.
+Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, * knit 2 together, and repeat from *
+to the end of the row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_329"><img alt=
+"Stitch for Couvrettes, Comforters, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image329.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_343" id=
+"page_343">[343]</a></span>
+
+<p>330 <em>and</em> 331.--<em>Knitted Veil.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Fine Shetland wool.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_330"><img alt="Knitted Veil." src=
+"images/image330.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Illustration 330 represents a knitted veil in reduced size. The
+original was worked with fine Shetland wool in an open pattern; it
+is edged with a knitted lace. Its length is 24 inches, its width 18
+inches. Work the veil from a paper pattern of a shape corresponding
+to that of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_344" id=
+"page_344">[344]</a></span> illustration 330. Compare the paper
+shape often with the knitting in the course of the work, and try to
+keep them alike.</p>
+
+<p>Knit the veil in the pattern of the original, or in the pattern
+of illustration 331. For the former one begin at the lower edge of
+the veil, cast on 45 stitches upon thick wooden needles, and
+work</p>
+
+<p><em>the 1st row:</em> * Knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together twice, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2
+together, * throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, and
+repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Like the 2nd row. The pattern must be
+reversed. The pattern figures increase with the increasings at the
+beginning and at the end of each row.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_345" id=
+"page_345">[345]</a></span>
+
+<p>The pattern of illustration 331 consists of the 2 following
+rows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Slip 1, then alternately throw the wool
+forward, and knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Entirely knitted; make 1 stitch of the wool
+thrown forward in the last row. When the veil is finished, wet it,
+and stretch it over paper or pasteboard; let it dry, and then edge
+it with the following lace:--Cast on 10, knit the 1st.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 9.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw
+the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> Knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw
+the wool forward, knit 2 together 3 times, knit 3.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Cast off 3 stitches, knit 10.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Knitted.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_331"><img alt="Pattern of Veil." src=
+"images/image331.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_332"><img alt=
+"Knitted Pattern with Embroidery." src=
+"images/image332.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_346" id=
+"page_346">[346]</a></span>
+
+<p>332.--<em>Knitted Pattern with Raised Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8
+or 20.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked in rows going backwards and forwards with
+thick or fine cotton according to the use you wish to make of it.
+The star-like figures on the knitted squares are worked with soft
+cotton in <em>point de poste</em>. Cast on a number of stitches
+long enough (19 stitches are necessary for the two squares), work
+the 1st row: * Knit 11 stitches, alternately 4 times knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward. Repeat from *, The 2nd row is
+worked like the 1st, only purled, in this row, as well as in the
+following ones, the stitch must be knitted with the cotton thrown
+forward <em>after</em> the stitch, the last stitch of a plain
+square with the first cotton thrown forward of the open-work
+figure. The number of stitches in the last must always be 8. The
+pattern consists <span class="newpage"><a name="page_347" id=
+"page_347">[347]</a></span> alternately of these two rows. Each
+pattern contains 12 rows, with the 13th the squares are reversed.
+The star figures are embroidered with double cotton by working 5
+chain stitch in the middle of each square; draw the needle
+underneath the knitting to the next centre of a square.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>333 <em>and</em> 334.--<em>Knitted Table Cover, (see page <a
+href="#page_578">578</a>.)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s coarse knitting
+cotton; thick steel knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_333"><img alt="Table-Cover Border." src=
+"images/image333.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This cover is suitable for either a large or a small table, as
+the pattern may be increased as much as required. It is suitable
+for antimacassars. Cast on 4 stitches, join them into a circle, and
+work the 1st round four times alternately. Throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd round:</em> Entirely knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1. Repeat 7
+times more from *. After every pattern round knit 1 round plain.
+Until after the 21st round, we shall not mention this any more.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. From
+the 7th to the 12th round the knitted stitches in every other round
+increase by 1 stitch, so that in the 12th round there are 7
+stitches between those formed by throwing the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 4, knit 2 together *.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_348" id=
+"page_348">[348]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>15th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together *.</p>
+
+<p><em>17th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together *.</p>
+
+<p><em>19th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, *.</p>
+
+<p><em>21st round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>22nd round:</em> * Knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2
+together, knit 3 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>23rd round:</em> * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>24th round:</em> * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>25th round:</em> * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>26th round:</em> Entirely knitted *.</p>
+
+<p><em>27th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>28th round:</em> Entirely knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>29th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 9,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>30th round:</em> Entirely knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>31st round:</em> * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 9,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>32nd round:</em> Entirely knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>33rd round:</em> * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 9,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 4 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>34th round:</em> * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2
+together, knit 5 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>35th round:</em> * Knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 7,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 5 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th round:</em> * Knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2
+together, knit 6 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>37th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5 three
+times, throw the cotton forward, knit 1 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>38th round:</em> * Knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2
+together, knit 8 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>39th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 6,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 3. throw the cotton forward, knit 6,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>40th round:</em> * Knit 9, knit 3 together, knit 10*.</p>
+
+<p><em>41st round:</em> * Knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit
+15, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_349" id=
+"page_349">[349]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>42nd round:</em> * Knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2
+together, knit 4 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>43rd round:</em> * Knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit
+13, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 *.</p>
+
+<p><em>44th round:</em> * Knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2
+together, knit 5 *.</p>
+
+<p>When the cover is completed, edge it all round, with the
+following border worked the short way:--Cast on 5 stitches and knit
+the 1st row, slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, knit the rest. Repeat this row after
+every pattern row.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th round:</em> Cast off 8 stitches, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th round:</em> Entirely knitted. Begin again at the 1st
+row, knit a sufficient length of the border, and then trim the
+cover with it on the outer edge.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_335"><img alt="Looped Knitting." src=
+"images/image335.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_350" id=
+"page_350">[350]</a></span>
+
+<p>335.--<em>Looped Knitting.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 4-thread fleecy wool; 2 wooden knitting-needles; 1
+flat wooden mesh.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on a sufficient number of stitches, and knit the 1st row
+plain.</p>
+
+<p>2<em>nd Row</em>--Slip the 1st stitch; insert the needle into
+the next stitch, and throw the cotton forward as if you were going
+to knit the stitch; place the mesh behind the needle in the right
+hand, and turn the wool which is on this needle upwards, bring it
+back again on the needle so that it is wound once round the mesh,
+and twice round the needle. Then only the double stitch through the
+second stitch, knit it, and insert the needle into the next stitch,
+and repeat what has been explained. Knit the last stitch without a
+loop.</p>
+
+<p>3<em>rd Row</em>--Before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and
+knit one <span class="newpage"><a name="page_351" id=
+"page_351">[351]</a></span> plain row. Every double stitch is
+knitted as one stitch, so as to attain the same number of stitches
+as in the 1st row.</p>
+
+<p>4<em>th Row</em>--Like the 2nd row. Repeat these rows as often
+as required.</p>
+
+<p>This knitting is chiefly used for borders of mats.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_336"><img alt="Pattern for Comforters.] "
+src="images/image336.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>336.--<em>Knitted Pattern for Comforters.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: 4-thread fleecy; 2 wooden knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on a sufficient number of stitches.</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> * 3 stitches in the first stitch, knit 1, purl
+1, knit 1, knit 3 stitches together, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Plain knitting.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Purled.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Knitted. Repeat these four rows, only in the
+next row the 3 stitches knitted together are worked on the 3
+stitches worked in 1 stitch, and the 3 stitches to be worked in 1
+stitch are to be placed on the one formed by knitting 3 stitches
+together.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_352" id=
+"page_352">[352]</a></span>
+
+<p>337.--<em>Knitted D'Oyley. (See page <a href=
+"#page_579">579</a>.)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 36;
+glazed embroidery cotton No. 10; steel knitting-needles.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is knitted with very fine crochet cotton. The
+middle part as well as the lace border are worked separately; the
+latter is sewn on to the middle part. The spots in the thick parts
+are worked in afterwards with coarser cotton. Commence the pattern
+in the centre, cast on 6 stitches, join them into a circle, and
+knit 2 plain rounds.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd round:</em> Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th and 5th rounds:</em> Plain.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th round:</em> Alternately knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th round:</em> Plain. Every other round is plain. We shall
+not mention these plain rounds any more.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th round:</em> Knit 2, * throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the
+round; lastly, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p>The 18th, 20th, 22nd, and 24th rounds are worked like the 16th
+round; only the middle plain part of the pattern figures increases
+by 2 stitches in every pattern round, so that there are 15 plain
+stitches in the 24th round between the 2 stitches formed on either
+side of the same by throwing the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em><span class="newpage"><a name="page_353" id=
+"page_353">[353]</a></span> 26th round:</em> * Throw the cotton
+forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>28th round:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>30th round:</em> * Knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward knit 3 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>32nd round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 13, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>34th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5,
+throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>36th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>38th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+3, throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>40th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_354" id=
+"page_354">[354]</a></span> together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the
+cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>42nd round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit
+3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>44th round:</em> * Knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward.</p>
+
+<p><em>45th and 46th rounds:</em> Plain, then cast off loosely.</p>
+
+<p>For the lace border, which is worked in the short way backwards
+and forwards, cast on 22 stitches and knit as follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 11.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 7,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, knit 9.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 9,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em><span class="newpage"><a name="page_355" id=
+"page_355">[355]</a></span> 6th row:</em> Knit 2 together (knit
+together the stitch and the next stitch formed by throwing the
+cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5,
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 10.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 10, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together
+(stitch formed by throwing the cotton forward and the next
+stitch).</p>
+
+<p><em>8th row:</em> Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 12.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit
+2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>10th row:</em> Knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw
+the cotton forward, knit 14.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the
+cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together. Then begin again
+on the 2nd row, and work on till the border is long enough; sew the
+lace on to the centre, slightly gathering the former. Lastly, work
+in the spots with glazed or coarse embroidery cotton.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_356" id=
+"page_356">[356]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>338.--Knitted Braces</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 8
+or 12.</p>
+
+<p>These braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double;
+the braces themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are
+knitted plain. Begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a
+foundation chain of 14 stitches, knit 5 rows plain backwards and
+forwards, then divide the stitches into two halves to form the
+button-hole; knit 15 rows on each of the halves consisting of 7
+stitches; then take the 14 stitches again on one needle and work 17
+rows on them. Then work a second button-hole like the first one;
+knit 6 more rows plain, increasing 1 at the end of every row, so
+that the number of stitches at the end of the lappet is 20.</p>
+
+<p>Then begin the pattern in brioche stitch; it is worked as
+follows:--Knit first 1 row, then slip the first stitch of the first
+following pattern row, * throw the cotton forward, slip the next
+stitch (slip the stitches always as if you were going to purl
+them), knit 2 together; repeat 5 times more from *; the last stitch
+is knitted.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row of the pattern:</em> Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 2;
+the stitch which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing
+the cotton forward is slipped after the 2nd knitted stitch; repeat
+5 times more from *; knit the last stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Slip the 1st stitch, * decrease 1 (here, and
+in all the following rows, knit the next stitch together with the
+stitch before it, which has been formed in the preceding row by
+throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, slip 1;
+repeat from *; knit the last stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Slip the 1st stitch, * knit 1, slip the stitch
+which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton
+forward, knit 1, knit the last stitch. Repeat these 4 rows till the
+braces are long enough. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_357"
+id="page_357">[357]</a></span> The pattern is 19 inches long. Then
+knit 6 rows plain, decreasing 1 at the end of every row, then work
+each lappet separately, dividing the stitches so that each lappet
+is 7 stitches wide. Each lappet has 72 rows; after the first 18
+rows make a button-hole as described for the preceding one. Work 18
+rows between the 1st and 2nd button-hole. The lappets are rounded
+off by decreasing after the 2nd button-hole.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_338"><img alt="Knitted Braces." src=
+"images/image338.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>339.--<em>Pattern for Knitted Curtains, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No.
+8.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is suitable for knitting different articles,
+according to the thickness of the cotton used. The number of
+stitches must be divided by ten. The pattern is knitted backwards
+and forwards.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_358" id=
+"page_358">[358]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_339"><img alt=
+"Pattern for Knitted Curtains.] " src=
+"images/image339.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> All plain.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> * Knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the
+slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 5, knit 2 together, make
+2. Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Purl the long stitch formed by making 2 in
+preceding row, * make 2, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together,
+make 2, purl 3. Repeat from *. (By <em>make</em> 2 is meant twist
+the cotton twice round the needle, which forms one long stitch, and
+is knitted or purled as such in next row.)</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Knit 3, * make 2, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the
+slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 5.
+Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Purl 3, * make 2, purl 3 together, make 2,
+purl 7. Repeat from*.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th row:</em> Knit 3, * knit 2 together (1 stitch and 1 long
+stitch), make 2, knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped
+stitch over (the knitted stitch is a <em>long stitch</em>), knit 5.
+Repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p>Continue the pattern by repeating always from the 2nd to the 5th
+row; the 6th row is the repetition of the 2nd row, but it is begun
+(compare <span class="newpage"><a name="page_359" id=
+"page_359">[359]</a></span> the two rows) about the middle of the
+2nd row, so as to change the places of the thick diamonds in the
+following pattern. This will be easily understood in the course of
+the work.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p><em>340.--Knitted Insertion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20
+or 30.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 14 stitches, and knit in rows, backwards and forwards,
+as follows:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward,
+knit 2, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2
+together, throw cotton forward, knit 3. This row is repeated 18
+times more; the stitch formed by throwing the cotton forward is
+knitted as 1 stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th row:</em> Slip 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1;
+place next 3 stitches upon another needle behind the cotton, and
+leave them alone; knit 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward,
+now knit the first 2 of the 3 stitches which have been left; knit
+the last of the 3 together with the next stitch on the needle,
+throw cotton forward, knit 3. Repeat these 20 rows till strip is
+long enough.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_340"><img alt="Knitted Insertion." src=
+"images/image340.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>341 <em>and</em> 342.--<em>Knitted Cover for Sofa
+Cushion.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No.
+12; eight ply fleecy wool.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_341"><img alt="Stitch for Sofa Cover." src=
+"images/image341.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This cushion (15 inches wide, 12 inches high) is made of grey
+calico; it is covered on one side with knitting, worked with grey
+crochet cotton. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_360" id=
+"page_360">[360]</a></span> The knitted cover has an open-work
+pattern, worked backwards and forwards on a number of stitches
+which can be divided by 2, and which must suit the width of the
+cushion, in the following manner:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st row:</em> Alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Slip 1, knit the other stitches. The stitch
+formed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> Knit 1, * throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together. Repeat from *; after the last decreasing knit 1.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th row:</em> Like the 2nd row.</p>
+
+<p>These four rows are repeated till the cover is sufficiently
+large. Draw a narrow piece of red worsted braid through every other
+open-work row of the pattern, as can be seen in illustration 341.
+When the cushion has been covered with the knitting, it is edged
+all round with a border knitted the long way, in the
+above-mentioned open-work pattern; it is 14 rows wide, and also
+trimmed with worsted braid; a fringe of grey cotton and red wool, 3
+1/4 inches wide, is sewn on underneath the border at the bottom of
+the cushion; to this is added a thick red worsted cord, by which
+the cushion is hung on over the back of an arm-chair. The <span
+class="newpage"><a name="page_361" id="page_361">[361]</a></span>
+cushion, on account of its simplicity, is especially suitable for
+garden chairs.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_342"><img alt="Sofa Cushion." src=
+"images/image342.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>343.--Netted Nightcap.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No.
+12.</p>
+
+<p>This cap is netted with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring
+three-quarters of an inch round; work first a long square for the
+centre <span class="newpage"><a name="page_362" id=
+"page_362">[362]</a></span> of the crown, cast on 28 stitches, and
+work backwards and forwards 27 rows with the same number of
+stitches. Then work 34 rounds round this square, and fasten the
+cotton. Then count 43 stitches for the front border, and 24
+stitches for the back border, and leave them for the edge of the
+cap. On the remaining stitches on each side work the strings in 95
+rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches; each
+string is pointed off at the lower end by decreasing 1 stitch in
+every row. Sew in a narrow piece of tape in the back border of the
+cap; the remaining part of the border, as well as the strings, are
+trimmed with crochet lace or with netted edging, No. 311.</p>
+
+
+
+<center><a name="image_343"><img alt="Netted Nightcap." src=
+"images/image343.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_363" id=
+"page_363">[363]</a></span>
+
+<p>344.--<em>Netted Nightcap</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton,
+3-thread, No. 30.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_344"><img alt="-Netted Nightcap." src=
+"images/image344.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This nightcap is very simple and practical. It consists of two
+similar three-cornered pieces, sewn together so as to form a double
+triangle; the point of the triangle is turned back, as seen in
+illustration, and fastened on the lower half of the same. The cap
+is edged with a lace; a <span class="newpage"><a name="page_364"
+id="page_364">[364]</a></span> similar lace covers the seam between
+both parts of the cap. The pattern is worked with crochet cotton
+over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch round. Begin each
+half in the corner; cast on 2 stitches, and work backwards and
+forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row, till the
+number of stitches is 60. Then sew both halves together, and trim
+the cap and strings (the latter are worked as on the cap No. 343)
+with the following lace: work 2 rows of open-work treble
+stitches--the treble stitches are divided by 1 chain--then work 1
+row of double, always working 4 double round the chain stitches
+which divide 2 treble in the preceding row, or with netted edging
+No. 311.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>345.--<em>Knitted Pattern</em>.-Netted Nightcap.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20
+for couvrettes, or Berlin wool for sofa quilts.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern can be worked either in wool or cotton, and is
+suitable for many purposes. Cast on a sufficient number of
+stitches, divided by 18, for the 1st row: Knit 4, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward knit 2 together,
+knit 4, purl 6, repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> The stitches knitted in the 1st row are purled
+as well as the stitches formed by throwing the cotton forward; the
+purled stitches are knitted. This row is repeated alternately,
+therefore we shall not mention it again.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> * Knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl
+2.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th row:</em> Purl 4, * knit 4, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4,
+purl 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th row:</em> Knit 2, * purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together, knit 6.</p>
+
+<p><em>9th row:</em> Knit 2, * purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 <span class="newpage"><a name="page_365" id=
+"page_365">[365]</a></span> together, throw the cotton forward,
+knit 2 together, knit 4.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th row:</em> * Knit 6, purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton
+forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2
+together.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th row:</em> Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, *
+knit 4, purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th row:</em> * Throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together,
+throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2, knit 6.
+The knitting can now be easily continued from illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_345"><img alt="Knitted Pattern." src=
+"images/image345.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_366" id=
+"page_366">[366]</a></span>
+
+<p>346 <em>to</em> 348.--Knitted Shawl.</p>
+
+<p>Materials Shetland wool, white and scarlet; steel needles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_346"><img alt="Pattern for Shawl (348)."
+src="images/image346.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_347"><img alt="Pattern for Shawl (348)."
+src="images/image347.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This shawl is knitted in the patterns given on Nos. 346 and 347.
+Both illustrations show the patterns worked in coarse wool, so as
+to be clearer. Begin the shawl, which is square, on one side, cast
+on a sufficient number of stitches (on our pattern 290); the
+needles must not be too fine, as the work should be loose and
+elastic.</p>
+
+<p>Knit first 2 rows plain, then 3 of the open-work row of pattern
+No. 346, which is worked in the following manner:--</p>
+
+<p>1st row: Slip the first stitch, * knit 2 together, inserting the
+needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, knit 2 together,
+throw the wool twice forward; repeat from *.</p>
+
+<p>2nd row: Knit 1 and purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the
+wool forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled.
+In the next row the holes are alternated--that is, after the 1st
+slipped stitch knit 1, throw the wool forward, and then knit twice
+2 together.</p>
+
+<p>When 3 such open-work rows are completed, knit 1 row plain, and
+then <span class="newpage"><a name="page_367" id=
+"page_367">[367]</a></span> work the pattern seen on No. 347, which
+forms the ground, and is worked in the following way:--1st row:
+Slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, and
+decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next, and drawing the
+slip stitch over the knitted one.</p>
+
+<p>2nd row, entirely purled.</p>
+
+<p>When 6 such rows have been worked in this pattern, work again 9
+rows of the open-work pattern, but work on each side of the 2
+stripes, each 6 stitches wide, in the pattern of the ground (No.
+347); each first stripe is at a distance of 4 stitches from the
+edge, and each second stripe at a distance of 20 stitches. After
+the 9th open-work row, work again 6 rows in the pattern of the
+ground, then again 8 open-work rows, and then begin the ground,
+only continue to work on both sides of the shawl the narrow stripes
+of the ground pattern, the narrow outer and the two wide inner
+stripes of the border in the open-work pattern. When the ground
+(pattern No. 347) is square, finish the shawl at the top with two
+wide <span class="newpage"><a name="page_368" id=
+"page_368">[368]</a></span> and one narrow open-work row, as at the
+bottom, divided by stripes in the ground pattern. Knot in, all
+round the shawl, a fringe of scarlet wool; the fringe must be 3-1/2
+inches deep.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_348"><img alt="Knitted Shawl." src=
+"images/image348.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ TABLE OF SIZES OF MESSRS. WALTER EVANS &amp; Co.'s KNITTING
+COTTON, 3 THREADS.
+<center>
+<table summary=
+"TABLE OF SIZES OF MESSRS. WALTER EVANS &amp; Co.'s KNITTING COTTON, 3 THREADS."
+ border="2" cellpadding="4">
+<tr>
+<th>&nbsp;</th>
+<th>No.</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Borders</td>
+<td>20, 80</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Couvrettes</td>
+<td>8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>D'Oyleys</td>
+<td>80, 100</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Edgings</td>
+<td>16, 30</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Insertions</td>
+<td>30, 50</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nightcaps</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Quilts</td>
+<td>4, 8, 12</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Socks</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Table Covers</td>
+<td>16</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</center>
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_369" id=
+"page_369">[369]</a></span> <a name=
+"ALPHABETS_FOR_MONOGRAMS_AND_INITIALS"></a> <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_370" id="page_370">[370]</a></span>
+
+<h3>MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS.</h3>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_371" id=
+"page_371">[371]</a></span>
+
+<h3>ALPHABETS.</h3>
+
+<p>349.--<em>Alphabet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>These letters are embroidered in overcast stitch and in satin
+stitch, and are the capitals for the alphabet No. 350. Stars
+ornament this very effective alphabet.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_372" id=
+"page_372">[372]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_349"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image349.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_349a"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image349a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_349b"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image349b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_374" id=
+"page_374">[374]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_349c"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image349c.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>350.--<em>Alphabet (Small Letters)</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>This alphabet will be found useful for marking linen as well as
+pocket-handkerchiefs. It is worked in satin stitch, the stars in
+fine overcast; an eyelet-hole occupies the centre of each star.</p>
+
+<p><span class="newpage"><a name="page_375" id=
+"page_375">[375]</a></span></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_350"><img alt="Alphabets (Small Letters)"
+src="images/image350.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_350a"><img alt="Alphabets (Small Letters)"
+src="images/image350a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>351.--<em>Alphabet of Small Capitals</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+12 for linen. No. 18 for handkerchiefs.</p>
+
+<p>These letters will be found useful for marking table-linen; they
+may be worked either in green, red, or white cotton. The letters
+are worked in raised satin stitch with raised dots and open
+eyelet-holes.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_376" id=
+"page_376">[376]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_351"><img alt="Alphabet of Small Capitals."
+src="images/image351.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_351a"><img alt="Alphabet of Small Capitals."
+src="images/image351a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_379" id=
+"page_379">[379]</a></span>
+
+<p>352.--<em>Alphabet</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+12.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty alphabet is worked in satin stitch, both raised and
+veined; the design is composed of forget-me-not blossoms and
+leaves. Raised dots worked in satin stitch form all the fine
+lines.</p>
+
+
+
+<center><a name="image_352"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch.]"
+src="images/image352.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_352a"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch.]"
+src="images/image352a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_381" id=
+"page_381">[381]</a></span>
+
+<p>353.--Alphabet in Coral Stitch.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Coloured ingrain marking cotton, or black sewing silk,
+or filoselle.</p>
+
+<p>The letters of this alphabet are particularly suitable for
+pocket-handkerchiefs. The embroidery is worked either with marking
+cotton, or coloured or black sewing silk; the long white lines are
+worked in overcast stitch, the small white spots in satin stitch,
+the remaining parts of the letters in coral stitch, as can be
+distinctly seen in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_353"><img alt="Alphabet in Coral Stitch."
+src="images/image353.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_353a"><img alt="Alphabet in Coral Stitch."
+src="images/image353a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_353b"><img alt="Alphabet in Coral Stitch."
+src="images/image353b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_383" id=
+"page_383">[383]</a></span>
+
+<p>354--- Small Alphabet.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This useful alphabet is worked in satin stitch, veined in parts
+and ornamented with tendrils. As the alphabet of capitals (page
+377, No. 351) and that of these small letters correspond, any name
+may be worked from them.</p>
+
+
+
+<center><a name="image_354"><img alt="Alphabet of Small Letters.]"
+src="images/image354.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_354a"><img alt="Alphabet of Small Letters.]"
+src="images/image354a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_385" id=
+"page_385">[385]</a></span>
+
+<p>355.--Alphabet (Capitals).</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+12 and 20.</p>
+
+<p>This alphabet is worked in raised satin stitch, the outlines
+being partly scalloped; for the fine lines, which should be worked
+in overcast, embroidery cotton No. 20 should be employed.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_355"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch"
+src="images/image355.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_355a"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch"
+src="images/image355a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_355b"><img alt="Alphabet in Satin Stitch"
+src="images/image355b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_387" id=
+"page_387">[387]</a></span>
+
+<p>356. Alphabet (Capitals).</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>The alphabet here illustrated is in the florid style; the
+graceful flowing lines are worked in raised satin stitch, as well
+as the variously-sized dots which ornament the letters.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_356"><img alt="Alphabet (Florid Capitals)."
+src="images/image356.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_356a"><img alt="Alphabet (Florid Capitals)."
+src="images/image356a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_356b"><img alt="Alphabet (Florid Capitals)."
+src="images/image356b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_356c"><img alt="Alphabet (Florid Capitals)."
+src="images/image356c.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_391" id=
+"page_391">[391]</a></span>
+
+<p>357--Alphabet.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+12 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>The letters are worked in point d'or, or dotted stitch, with an
+outline in fine overcast, and large raised spots in satin stitch.
+The ornamental wreaths round the first five letters can of course
+be worked round any of the others. It is very fashionable to work
+one letter only upon handkerchief corners.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_357"><img alt="Alphabet in point d'or." src=
+"images/image357.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_357a"><img alt="Alphabet in point d'or."
+src="images/image357a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_393" id=
+"page_393">[393]</a></span>
+
+<p>358.--<em>Alphabet in White Embroidery</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This alphabet is worked in appliqu&eacute;; the ears of corn
+only are worked in overcast, satin, and knotted stitch. These
+letters look particularly well on transparent materials. The ears
+may be omitted by beginners, though they add much to the beauty of
+the alphabet. To this alphabet are added the ten numerals, which
+will be found exceedingly useful. By means of the whole alphabet
+and all these figures, any combination of initials and numbers can
+be made.</p>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_358"><img alt=
+"Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery." src=
+"images/image358.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_358a"><img alt=
+"Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery." src=
+"images/image358a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_358b"><img alt=
+"Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery." src=
+"images/image358b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_358c"><img alt=
+"Alphabets and Numerals in White Embroidery." src=
+"images/image358c.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_396" id=
+"page_396">[396]</a></span> 359.--<em>Alphabet (see page </em><a
+href="#page_402">402</a>).
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20; very fine black silk.</p>
+
+<p>The vine-leaves and grapes of this graceful and fanciful
+alphabet are worked in veined and slightly raised satin stitch, the
+tendrils in point russe; for these the fine black silk is
+employed.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>360.--<em>Sampler (Frontispiece</em>).</p>
+
+<p>Materials: cambric muslin or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos. 16, 18, and 20; red cotton and
+black silk.</p>
+
+<p>This illustration shows a sampler which will be found useful for
+learning to embroider letters for marking linen. The material used
+is cambric muslin or fine linen. Work the embroidery with white
+embroidery cotton, red cotton, or black silk. The thick parts of
+the letters are worked in slanting satin stitch and back stitch;
+the outlines of the stitched parts are worked in overcast, as well
+as the fine outlines of the letters and all the fine outlines of
+the patterns. The monograms and crowns are worked in a similar
+manner. Work button-hole stitch round the outside of the sampler.
+The letters and crowns may, of course, be employed for other
+purposes.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_397" id=
+"page_397">[397]</a></span>
+
+<p>361.--<em>Alphabet (Capitals)</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>This effective alphabet is very easily worked, the stitches
+employed being raised and veined satin stitch, and overcast. The
+raised dots are worked in satin stitch, care being taken to
+preserve their position in the <em>centre</em> of each open
+space.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_361"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image361.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_361a"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image361a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_361b"><img alt="Alphabet (Capitals)." src=
+"images/image361b.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_401" id=
+"page_401">[401]</a></span> <a name="MONOGRAMS_AND_INITIALS"></a>
+
+<h3>MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS.</h3>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_362"><img alt="Alice." src=
+"images/image362.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>362.--<em>Alice</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>The letters of this name, except the initial letter, are very
+simple, being worked in plain satin stitch, while the initial
+letter is worked in raised satin stitch, point de poste, and
+overcast.</p>
+
+<p><span class="newpage"><a name="page_402" id=
+"page_402">[402]</a></span> 363.--<em>Amalie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+16 and 20.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_363"><img alt="Amalie." src=
+"images/image363.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The highly-ornate initial of this name is not difficult to work,
+requiring only great regularity and evenness in embroidering the
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_403" id=
+"page_403">[403]</a></span> tendrils and eyelet-holes. The veinings
+of the letter must be carefully defined. The remainder of the name
+is executed in plain satin stitch, a few eyelet-holes being
+introduced.</p>
+
+<p>"Amalie" can easily be altered into "Amelia" by changing the
+place of the <em>a</em> and <em>e</em>. In the centre of each
+letter a large eyelet-hole is placed; smaller eyelet-holes of
+graduated sizes occupy parts of the overcast scrolls, which should
+be worked with No. 20 cotton. The initial letter is worked in
+raised satin stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_364"><img alt="Amy." src=
+"images/image364.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>364.--<em>Amy</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty name is worked in delicately raised satin stitch and
+point de pois; the dots in dotted satin stitch, and the elegant
+little design beneath is worked in point russe.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_404" id=
+"page_404">[404]</a></span>
+
+<p>365.--<em>Annie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_365"><img alt="Annie." src=
+"images/image365.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The letter <em>A</em> of this name is rather elaborate, and is
+worked in point de pois or back stitching, the outlines in fine
+overcast, the letters in satin stitch. The ornaments surrounding
+the word "Annie" are worked in overcast.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_405" id=
+"page_405">[405]</a></span>
+
+<p>366.--<em>A.M.K.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16. This name is worked in satin stitch, with small dots of raised
+satin stitch. The eyelet-holes in the middle letter to be worked in
+overcast.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_366"><img alt="A.M.K." src=
+"images/image366.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>367.--<em>B.R.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_367"><img alt="B.R." src=
+"images/image367.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These initials are worked in appliqu&eacute; in the centre of a
+medallion in satin stitch, overcast, and lace stitches.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_406" id=
+"page_406">[406]</a></span>
+
+<p>368.--<em>Carrie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_407" id=
+"page_407">[407]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_368"><img alt="Carrie." src=
+"images/image368.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This name is very easy to work, being very clearly and simply
+embroidered in overcast and satin stitch. The thick dots may be
+worked without the eyelet-holes if preferred.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_369"><img alt="Caroline." src=
+"images/image369.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>369.--<em>Caroline</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty name requires care in working; the leaves which
+adorn the letters must be very well defined; they, as well as the
+letters, are embroidered in satin stitch, the initial letter being
+veined, and the ornaments worked in overcast and eyelet-holes.</p>
+
+<p>370.--<em>Charlotte</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_370"><img alt="Charlotte." src=
+"images/image370.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This name is worked in satin stitch and overcast, the small and
+elegant dots in point de russe and graduated satin stitch; the
+large ones are worked in raised satin stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_408" id=
+"page_408">[408]</a></span>
+
+<p>371.--<em>Cornelie</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>This word is worked in plain satin stitch, the ornamentation in
+overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_371"><img alt="Cornelie." src=
+"images/image371.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>372.--<em>C.M.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>This design is simple, is worked in graduated satin stitch, and
+is most elegant.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_372"><img alt="C.M." src=
+"images/image372.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_409" id=
+"page_409">[409]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_373"><img alt="Dora." src=
+"images/image373.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_410" id=
+"page_410">[410]</a></span>
+
+<p>373.--<em>Dora</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+30.</p>
+
+<p>This elaborate design should not be attempted by beginners in
+the art of embroidery; it is worked in overcast stitch, raised and
+veined satin stitch; the tendrils are entirely worked in graduated
+overcast; the name is placed over a graceful spray of wild flowers
+worked in the above-named stitches. This pattern, although
+originally designed to be worked on net or fine muslin, is far more
+effective when worked on cambric or fine lawn.</p>
+
+<p>374.--<em>D.C.</em></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_374"><img alt="D.C." src=
+"images/image374.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>These letters are worked in satin stitch and veined satin
+stitch; the forget-me-nots are worked in raised satin stitch with a
+small eyelet-hole in the middle worked in overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<p>375.--<em>Emily</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16. This name is worked in satin stitch, the dots in the middle in
+point de <span class="newpage"><a name="page_411" id=
+"page_411">[411]</a></span> poste, the rest of the letters in satin
+stitch and in dotted satin stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_375"><img alt="Emily." src=
+"images/image375.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>376.--<em>Ernestine</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This elegant design is most effective; the first letter very
+elaborate; the rest of the letters simply worked in satin stitch.
+The small stars are worked in overcast stitch, and the initial
+letter itself in veined satin stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_376"><img alt="Ernestine." src=
+"images/image376.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>377.--<em>Etta</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+10.</p>
+
+<p>The letters which compose this name are formed entirely of
+leaves, flowers, and tendrils, worked entirely in satin stitch and
+overcast; the tendrils which surround the name are worked in
+overcast, and have a few eyelet-holes placed among them.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_377"><img alt="Etta." src=
+"images/image377.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_414" id=
+"page_414">[414]</a></span>
+
+<p>378.--<em>Eva</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+16 and 20.</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked in satin stitch, the leaf in point de sable;
+the veinings are worked in raised satin stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_378"><img alt="Eva." src=
+"images/image378.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>379.--<em>E.A</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s White and Red
+Embroidery Cotton No. 30.</p>
+
+<p>This very pretty monogram is worked quite in a new style of
+embroidery. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_415" id=
+"page_415">[415]</a></span> The design represents the emblems of
+Faith, Hope, and Charity. The outlines of the shield and cross are
+worked in overcast, the initials "E.A.," the torch, and the anchor
+in satin stitch with white cotton, the leaves partly in satin
+stitch with white and partly in point d'or with red cotton, with
+only a fine outline in overcast. The cross and the flames of the
+torch are embroidered in the same manner.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_379"><img alt="E.A." src=
+"images/image379.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>380.--<em>E.A.P</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>These pretty initials are worked in satin stitch, the middle
+letter in point russe and point de poste.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_416" id=
+"page_416">[416]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_380"><img alt="E.A.P." src=
+"images/image380.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>381.--<em>E.P</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>These elegant letters are worked in veined and raised satin
+stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_381"><img alt="E.P." src=
+"images/image381.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_417" id=
+"page_417">[417]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_382"><img alt="E.R." src=
+"images/image382.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>382.--<em>E.R.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+30.</p>
+
+<p>The ovals are worked in overcast and point de pois, the letters
+in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch and
+overcast.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_418" id=
+"page_418">[418]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_383"><img alt="E.A." src=
+"images/image383.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>383.--<em>E.A</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>These initials are placed in a medallion; they are worked in
+satin stitch and overcast, and in appliqu&eacute; on muslin. For
+that part of the pattern in which the name is to be embroidered the
+material is taken double.</p>
+
+<p>384.--<em>Elisabeth</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>This word is embroidered in satin stitch and overcast. A few
+small eyelet-holes break the monotony of the outlines, and give
+lightness to this name.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_384"><img alt="Elisabeth." src=
+"images/image384.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_419" id=
+"page_419">[419]</a></span>
+
+<p>385.--<em>Elise</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+12 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>The open part of these letters is ornamented by one or more
+dots; the thick work is raised over chain stitches worked in No.
+12, a rather coarser cotton.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_385"><img alt="Elise." src=
+"images/image385.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>386.--<em>Emma</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked in satin stitch; the large dots may be
+worked with the eyelet-holes in fine overcast, the smaller dots in
+satin stitch. The remaining letters in raised satin stitch and
+point de sable.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_386"><img alt="Emma." src=
+"images/image386.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_420" id=
+"page_420">[420]</a></span>
+
+<p>387.--<em>F.B.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18.</p>
+
+<p>This elegant monogram is worked in raised satin stitch, the
+inside embroidered with lace. The leaves and tendrils are worked in
+satin stitch and point de sable.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_387"><img alt="F.B." src=
+"images/image387.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>388.--<em>F.S.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+16 and 20.</p>
+
+<p>The initials "F.S." are placed in the pages of an open book, the
+outlines of which are worked in overcast, the sides in point de
+pois. The wreath of flowers which surrounds the book is embroidered
+in satin stitch, the tendrils and veinings are in overcast. The
+initials are worked in fine satin stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_421" id=
+"page_421">[421]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_388"><img alt="F.S." src=
+"images/image388.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>389.--<em>Fanny.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>This name is simply worked in satin stitch and overcast.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_389"><img alt="Fanny." src=
+"images/image389.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>390.--<em>Francis.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16.</p>
+
+<p>The initial letter of this elegant design is worked in fine
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_422" id=
+"page_422">[422]</a></span> over-casting; the centre star in raised
+satin stitch with lace in the middle; the leaves surrounding it in
+veined satin stitch; the other letters are worked in plain satin
+stitch; and the dots of the line in point de poste.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_390"><img alt="Francis." src=
+"images/image390.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_423" id=
+"page_423">[423]</a></span>
+
+<p>391.--<em>E.C.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20.</p>
+
+<p>The initials "E.C." are worked within a frame of overcast
+outlines and satin stitch dots. Vine-leaves and grapes worked in
+point de pois and eyelet-holes are placed as ornaments around the
+frame.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_391"><img alt="E.C." src=
+"images/image391.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>392.--<em>Gordon</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This pretty name being worked in raised satin stitch, is very
+suitable for gentlemen's handkerchiefs</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_424" id=
+"page_424">[424]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_391"><img alt="Gordon.] " src=
+"images/image391.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>393.--<em>Helene</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>We give the French version of this pretty name, it being easily
+changed to English "Helen" by omitting the final <em>e</em> in
+working. The name is worked in plain satin stitch, slightly raised
+at the thickest parts of the letters</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_393"><img alt="Helene." src=
+"images/image393.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>394.--<em>H.D.G.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This elegant design is worked in fine overcast and satin stitch,
+and point de russe</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_425" id=
+"page_425">[425]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_394"><img alt="H.D.G." src=
+"images/image394.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>395--<em>Jessie.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This design is very simple to work, the letters being so clear
+and well defined. The thick satin stitch is scalloped in parts</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_395"><img alt="Jessie." src=
+"images/image395.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>396.--<em>J.C.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+12</p>
+
+<p>The letters "J.C." are worked in raised satin and overcast
+stitch, the thickest part of each letter being worked in
+scallops</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_426" id=
+"page_426">[426]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_396"><img alt="J.C." src=
+"images/image396.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>397.--<em>Lina</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked in raised veined satin stitch; the small
+stars are worked in point russe round eyelet-holes</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_397"><img alt="Lina." src=
+"images/image397.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>398.--<em>Lizzie</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked partly in satin stitch, partly in raised
+dots and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_427" id=
+"page_427">[427]</a></span> fine overcast; the letters are in the
+Greek style, and have an excellent effect if well worked</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_398"><img alt="" src=
+"images/image398.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>399.--<em>L.G.A.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20, and Linen Thread No. 16</p>
+
+<p>Lace stitches are introduced in the medallion which incloses
+these letters, the outlines being worked in overcast and point de
+pois, the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_428" id=
+"page_428">[428]</a></span> pens and initials in raised satin
+stitch, as also the flowers. The open portion is filled in with
+Mechlin wheels, which are thus worked: A number of single threads
+cross each other in the space to be filled up; these are placed
+about a quarter of an inch from each other. All the bars in one
+direction must now be worked in fine button-hole stitch, then the
+opposite bars must be worked, and the button-hole stitch must be
+continued about six inches past the point where the two lines
+cross. The thread must be slipped loosely round the cross twice,
+running over and under alternately, so as to form a circle; then
+work in button-hole to the centre of a quarter of the circle; make
+a dot by inserting a pin in the next button-hole and working three
+stitches in the loop thus formed by the pin. These dots may be
+omitted from these wheels</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_399"><img alt="L.G.A." src=
+"images/image399.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_429" id=
+"page_429">[429]</a></span>
+
+<p>400.--<em>L.C.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>The effect of this design when well worked is excellent, for,
+although simple, the contrast between the letters and stars throws
+each into relief. Veined and raised satin stitch, with very small
+eyelet-holes, are the stitches used here</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_400"><img alt="L.C." src=
+"images/image400.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>401.--<em>Marie</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton Nos.
+20 and 36</p>
+
+<p>This name is embroidered in satin stitch; the veinings are well
+defined, and the tendrils should be worked with No. 30 cotton, as
+they require very fine work. Stars of overcast and eyelet-holes are
+the only ornaments</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_430" id=
+"page_430">[430]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_401"><img alt="Marie." src=
+"images/image401.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>402.--<em>Maria</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+30</p>
+
+<p>The initial letter of this name is worked in overcast and point
+de pois, the remaining letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation
+in satin stitch and overcast</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_402"><img alt="Maria." src=
+"images/image402.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>403.--<em>Maude</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This name is worked in veined satin stitch; the small stars in
+raised satin stitch, and the elegant tendrils are worked in
+overcast. This work is peculiarly adapted for the marking of a
+trousseau</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_431" id=
+"page_431">[431]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_403"><img alt="Maude." src=
+"images/image403.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>404.--<em>M.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>This elegant design can be worked in coloured silk if preferred,
+or the coronet omitted at will. The letter "M" is worked in raised
+and veined satin stitch; the centre stars are worked in fine
+overcast round an eyelet-hole; the coronet is worked in very fine
+satin stitch and point de pois, and stars to correspond with those
+worked in the letter and in the wreath below, the leaves of which
+are worked in satin stitch and overcast stitch</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_432" id=
+"page_432">[432]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_404"><img alt="Handkerchief Corner." src=
+"images/image404.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_433" id=
+"page_433">[433]</a></span>
+
+<p>405.--<em>M.B.D.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>These initials are worked in satin stitch and overcast, the open
+work in fine overcast round eyelet-holes</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_405"><img alt="M.B.D." src=
+"images/image405.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_406"><img alt="M.B.G." src=
+"images/image406.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_434" id=
+"page_434">[434]</a></span>
+
+<p>406.--<em>M.B.G.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>These elegant letters are simply worked in graduated satin
+stitch and fine overcast with eyelet-holes</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_407"><img alt="M.H.E." src=
+"images/image407.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>407.--<em>M.H.E.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This elegant design is worked in graduated satin stitch, the
+middle letter is done in point crois&eacute;. This stitch is only
+worked on very thin and transparent materials. Insert the needle
+into the material as for the common back stitch, draw it out
+underneath the needle on the opposite outline of the pattern so as
+to form on the wrong side a slanting line. Insert the needle again
+as for common back stitch</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_435" id=
+"page_435">[435]</a></span>
+
+<p>408.--<em>Natalie.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+30</p>
+
+<p>The initial letter of this word contains all those following,
+and is surrounded by a wreath of roses and other flowers; these are
+worked in satin stitch, the leaves in point de pois, the letters in
+raised satin stitch. The dots which are represented on the
+groundwork of the initial are worked in back stitching; these may
+be worked in scarlet ingrain cotton if desired for morning
+handkerchiefs</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_408"><img alt="Natalie." src=
+"images/image408.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_409"><img alt="O.R." src=
+"images/image409.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>409.--<em>O.R.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>This monogram is worked in satin stitch, and the oval is worked
+in eyelet-holes of graduated sizes</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_436" id=
+"page_436">[436]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_409"><img alt="O.R." src=
+"images/image409.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>410.--<em>Phoebe</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>The first letter of this word is very elaborate; it is worked in
+satin stitch, point de sable, and point de pois, the rest of the
+letters in satin stitch</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_410"><img alt="Phoebe." src=
+"images/image410.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_437" id=
+"page_437">[437]</a></span>
+
+<p>411.--<em>Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton
+Perfectionn&eacute; No. 20</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_411"><img alt=
+"Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs" src=
+"images/image411.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This monogram is worked partly in appliqu&eacute;, partly in
+satin stitch. For the middle part of the medallion sew on the
+pattern in appliqu&eacute; of cambric with button-hole stitch; the
+remaining part of the embroidery is worked in satin stitch and
+point russe</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_438" id=
+"page_438">[438]</a></span>
+
+<p>412.--<em>Monogram for Pocket Handkerchiefs</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20, and Linen Thread No. 20</p>
+
+<p>This monogram is also worked in appliqu&eacute; and satin
+stitch. The circle all round the medallion is worked in
+appliqu&eacute;; in the middle work lace stitches from
+illustration. The edge of the medallion is worked round with
+button-hole stitch</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_412"><img alt=
+"Monogram for Marking Handkerchiefs." src=
+"images/image412.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>413.--<em>Rosa</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>Here the name is inclosed in a medallion of overcast and back
+stitching, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_439" id=
+"page_439">[439]</a></span> the lower part having a graceful wreath
+of leaves worked in satin stitch. The letters which form the name
+are worked in raised and scalloped satin stitch and point de
+pois</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_413"><img alt="Rosa." src=
+"images/image413.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>414.--<em>Rosina</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>The stars round this graceful initial letter are worked in
+raised satin stitch round an eyelet-hole, the leaves in graduated
+satin stitch, the stems overcast, the wreaths of flowers worked in
+satin stitch and open eyelet-holes, the stems and veinings in
+overcast, and the stars on the stems to correspond with those
+worked in the letter: the rest of the letters in simple satin
+stitch rather thickly raised</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_440" id=
+"page_440">[440]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_414"><img alt="Rosina" src=
+"images/image414.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_441" id=
+"page_441">[441]</a></span>
+
+<p>415.--<em>R.S.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Black china silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Embroidery Cotton No. 16</p>
+
+<p>These letters are worked in raised satin stitch with a design of
+point russe worked in black silk</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_415"><img alt="R.S." src=
+"images/image415.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>416.--<em>S.E.B.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+16</p>
+
+<p>These letters are worked in graduated satin stitch, the centre
+star is worked in raised satin stitch, and the four surrounding it
+as eyelet-holes</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_416"><img alt="S.E.B." src=
+"images/image416.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>417.--<em>L.E.P.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+18</p>
+
+<p>These initials are worked in plain satin stitch, and the elegant
+stars are worked in point russe worked round an eyelet-hole</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_442" id=
+"page_442">[442]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_417"><img alt="L.E.P." src=
+"images/image417.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>418.--<em>Victoria</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Embroidery Cotton No.
+20</p>
+
+<p>This name is most elaborately worked in satin stitch,
+overcasting and eyelet-holes. The initial letter is worked in satin
+stitch, and the stars in fine overcast round an eyelet-hole</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_418"><img alt="Victoria." src=
+"images/image418.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_443" id=
+"page_443">[443]</a></span> <a name="POINT_LACE_WORK"></a>
+
+<h2>POINT LACE WORK</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_444" id=
+"page_444">[444]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_445" id="page_445">[445]</a></span>
+
+<p>Lace is of two kinds--pillow lace, which is made upon a cushion
+or pillow, and point lace, which is made of stitches or
+<em>points</em> worked in patterns by hand, which are joined by
+various stitches forming a groundwork, also the result of the
+needle above.</p>
+
+<p>Pillow lace is entirely worked on the pillow or cushion, the
+pattern and ground being produced at the same time. Pillow lace is
+sometimes correctly called bone or bobbin lace, but it appears that
+the distinction has never been very nicely observed either by
+lace-workers or lace-traders, many sorts which are really pillow
+lace being called point, on account of some peculiarity in the
+stitch or pattern</p>
+
+<p>The requisites for producing lace in perfection are the
+dexterity and taste of the workers, and the goodness of the
+material. To produce many beautiful fabrics a mechanical dexterity
+alone suffices, but in lace-making the worker must have some
+artistic talent, even when supplied with designs, for any one can
+perceive that deviations from the design are easily made, and that
+the slightest alteration by a worker wanting in taste will spoil
+the whole piece of workmanship</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_446" id=
+"page_446">[446]</a></span>
+
+<p>The following illustrations are specimens of ancient and modern
+laces from Mrs. Bury Palliser's collection:--</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_419"><img alt="Dalecarlian Lace." src=
+"images/image419.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_447" id=
+"page_447">[447]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_420"><img alt="Old Mechlin." src=
+"images/image420.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_421"><img alt=
+"Mechlin Lace (Queen Charlotte's)." src=
+"images/image421.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_448" id=
+"page_448">[448]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 419 shows Dalecarlian lace, made by the women of Dalecarlia.
+This is a coarse kind of lace, and is sewn on caps, &amp;c., and,
+although highly starched, is never washed, for fear of destroying
+its coffee-coloured tint, which, it appears, is as much prized now
+by the Swedish rustics as it was by English ladies in the last
+century</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_422"><img alt=
+"Buckingham Point Trolly, 1851 (Black Lace)." src=
+"images/image422.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Both these specimens of Mechlin belonged to Queen Charlotte, who
+much admired this elegant lace</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_449" id=
+"page_449">[449]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 423.--The Bedford plaited lace is an improvement on the old
+Maltese.</p>
+
+<p>Honiton guipure lace is distinguished by the groundwork being of
+various stitches, in place of being sewn upon a net ground. The
+application of Honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late
+years almost superseded by this modern guipure. The sprigs, when
+made, are sewn upon a piece of blue paper and united on the pillow
+with "cutworks" or "purlings," or else joined with the needle by
+various stitches--lacet, point, r&eacute;seau, cutwork,
+button-hole, and purling.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_423"><img alt="Bedford Plaited Lace (1851)."
+src="images/image423.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Those who wish to study lace and lace-making should read Mrs.
+Bury Palliser's <em>History of Lace</em> (Sampson Low and
+Marston).</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_450" id=
+"page_450">[450]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_424"><img alt="Honiton Guipure Lace." src=
+"images/image424.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_451" id=
+"page_451">[451]</a></span> <a name="POINT_LACE_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+
+<h2>POINT LACE INSRUCTIONS.</h2>
+
+<p>The materials required for this elegant branch of needlework are
+neither numerous nor expensive. TRACING CLOTH, LEATHER, or TOILE
+CIR&Eacute;E, various BRAIDS and CORDS, LINEN THREAD and two or
+three sizes of needles, scissors and thimble. TRACING CLOTH is
+required when ladies copy point lace patterns, and is the most
+convenient mode of taking them, as the design can be worked upon
+the tracing cloth, which, though transparent, is very strong; the
+price is 1s. 6d. per yard. Fine LEATHER is the material upon which
+bought patterns are usually traced, and is decidedly more pleasant
+to work on than is any other material. In selecting <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_452" id="page_452">[452]</a></span>
+patterns ladies should choose those traced upon green leather in
+preference to scarlet or buff, as green is better for the eyesight
+than any other colour.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_425"><img alt="Point Lace Scissors." src=
+"images/image425.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>TOILE CIR&Eacute;E is only a substitute for leather, and is not
+as pleasant to work upon in warm weather.</p>
+
+<p>The needles employed are usually Messrs. Walker's needles, Nos.
+9 and 10. The scissors should be small, sharp, and pointed, as in
+illustration No. 425. An ivory thimble may be safely employed in
+this light work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_426"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image426.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_427"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image427.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_428"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image428.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_429"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image429.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_430"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image430.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_431"><img alt="Linen Braid." src=
+"images/image431.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The BRAIDS are of various widths and kinds. None but pure linen
+braid should be employed; those with machine-made edgings are
+eschewed by many lace-workers, the plain, loose-woven linen braid
+of various widths and qualities being alone acceptable to
+experienced hands.</p>
+
+<p>But all ladies do not care to be at the trouble of edging the
+braid, and will find Nos. 426, 428, 430, and 431 very useful. No.
+429 is a plain linen braid with a vandyked edge, which works out
+very prettily. No. 431 is an edged braid with open holes, in
+imitation of the point lace work of the fifteenth century.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_453" id=
+"page_453">[453]</a></span>
+
+<p>Point lace cords resemble the satin stitch embroidery in their
+close, regular smoothness; the price is 1s. per hank, and they are
+of various thicknesses, from the size of a coarse crochet thread up
+to that of a thick piping cord. These cords are used to ornament
+the braid, and are closely sewn on the braid, following its every
+outline, and serve as <em>beading</em> to the edging, being always
+sewn on the outer edge alone. The finer kinds of this cord are used
+in place of braid where very light work is needed, as in the point
+lace alphabet which forms the frontispiece of this work. Directions
+for laying on the cord when employed as braid are given on page
+500. When used as a finish only, and to impart the raised
+appearance of Venice and Spanish lace, it is fixed on the braid by
+plain, close sewing. The thread used should be Mecklenburg linen
+thread; that of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co. we strongly recommend
+as being of pure linen, washing and wearing well; it is pleasant to
+work with, from the regularity and evenness of the make. The
+numbers run thus:--2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 30, 36,
+and 40--and will be found adapted for every kind of lace stitch.
+No. 2 is the coarsest, No. 40 the finest, size.</p>
+
+<p>In working point lace the following directions must be attended
+to: Begin at the left hand, and work from left to right, when not
+otherwise directed, as in reverse rows. Before cutting off the
+braid run a few stitches across it to prevent it widening. Joins
+should be avoided, but when a join is indispensable, stitch the
+braid together, open and turn back the ends, and stitch each
+portion down separately. When passing the thread from one part to
+another, run along the centre of the braid, allowing the stitches
+to show as little as possible. In commencing, make a few stitches,
+leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_454" id="page_454">[454]</a></span> cutting
+it off afterwards. In fastening off, make a tight button-hole
+stitch, run on three stitches, bring the needle out at the back,
+and cut off.</p>
+
+<p>Having now completed our list of materials, we can proceed to
+lay on the braid.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_442"><img alt="Mode of Placing the Braid."
+src="images/image442.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>TO PLACE THE BRAID.--No. 442 shows the design traced upon paper
+or tracing cloth, and lightly tacked to a foundation of leather or
+toile cir&eacute;e. Run on a straight line of braid for the lower
+edge, with fine stitches, working as shown from left to right. Take
+another piece of braid, or the other end of the same piece, and
+begin to lay the braid by "running" stitches in its centre, keeping
+it as smooth and even as possible. The outer edge presents no
+difficulty, but the inner edge will not lie evenly without being
+drawn in by a needle and thread, as follows:--Thread a No. 9 needle
+with No. 12 Mecklenburg thread about 20 inches long, fasten the
+thread to one point, and insert the needle in <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_455" id="page_455">[455]</a></span> and out
+of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this thread
+when drawn up will keep the braid in its place. Two or three
+fastening off stitches should be worked when each circle, half
+circle, or rounded curve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing
+or gathering thread remains in the work, and forms an important,
+though unseen, part of its structure.</p>
+
+<p>As much of the beauty of point lace depends upon the manner of
+placing the braid, ladies cannot bestow too much pains upon this
+part of the work, which is a little troublesome to beginners. Many
+fancy shops now undertake this braid-placing for ladies, who can
+have their own pattern braided and commenced or braided alone at
+trifling expense. Among these may be mentioned the following
+houses:--</p>
+
+<p>Goubaud, 30,<br>
+Henrietta-street,<br>
+Covent-garden.<br>
+Boutillier, Oxford-street, W.</p>
+
+<p>The stitches used in point lace may be divided into--</p>
+
+<p>STITCHES PROPER, or <em>points</em>.</p>
+
+<p>CONNECTING BARS.</p>
+
+<p>FINISHING EDGINGS.</p>
+
+<p>WHEELS AND ROSETTES</p>
+
+<p>The term point lace, or lace stitches (<em>points</em>), has of
+late been applied to every stitch executed with Mecklenburg thread,
+and many stitches are erroneously named by modern writers. As there
+are more than one hundred stitches employed in this beautiful art,
+much study and opportunity of seeing specimens of old point lace is
+required to give a novice any idea of the various kinds of point
+lace; but by attention to the following stitches the rudiments of
+the art may be easily acquired and very beautiful lace
+produced.</p>
+
+<p>The first stitch is POINT DE BRUXELLES, or Brussels lace stitch.
+This stitch, as may be clearly seen in illustration No. 433, is a
+simple <span class="newpage"><a name="page_456" id=
+"page_456">[456]</a></span> button-hole stitch worked loosely and
+with great regularity. The whole beauty of Brussels lace depends
+upon the evenness of the stitches. This stitch is sometimes
+employed as an edging, but is more often worked in rows backwards
+and forwards, either as a groundwork or to fill spaces, as in the
+point lace collar, No. 496.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_433"><img alt=
+"Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace)." src=
+"images/image433.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_434"><img alt=
+"Point de Bruxelles (Brussels Lace Worked in Rows)." src=
+"images/image434.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Brussels Point is the foundation of nearly all the lace
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p>POINT DE VENISE (Venetian or Venice Point) is worked from left
+to right, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_457" id=
+"page_457">[457]</a></span> like Brussels point. Work one loose
+button-hole, and in this stitch work four button-hole stitches
+tightly drawn up, then work another loose button-hole stitch, then
+four more tight button-hole stitches in the loose one, repeat to
+the end of the row, and fasten off.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_435"><img alt=
+"Point de Venise (Venice Point)." src=
+"images/image435.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_436"><img alt=
+"Petit Point de Venise (Little Venice Point)." src=
+"images/image436.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>PETIT POINT DE VENISE (Little Venice Point) is worked in the
+same manner as Point de Venise, but one tight stitch only is worked
+in each loose button-hole stitch. This is a most useful stitch for
+filling small spaces.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_437"><img alt=
+"Point d'Espagne (Spanish Point)." src=
+"images/image437.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 437.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Spanish Point) is worked from left to
+right as follows:--Insert the needle in the edge of the braid,
+keeping the thread turned to the right, bringing it out inside the
+loop formed by <span class="newpage"><a name="page_458" id=
+"page_458">[458]</a></span> the thread (see illustration No. 437);
+the needle must pass from the back of the loop through it. Pass the
+needle under the stitch and bring it out in front, thus twice
+twisting the thread, which produces the cord-like appearance of
+this stitch. At the end of each row fasten to the braid and return
+by sewing back, inserting the needle once in every open stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_438"><img alt=
+"Close Point d'Espagne (Close Spanish Point)." src=
+"images/image438.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 438.--POINT D'ESPAGNE (Close) is worked in the same way as
+open point d'Espagne, but so closely as to only allow the needle to
+pass through in the next row. This stitch is also worked from left
+to right; fasten to the braid at the end of each row, and sew back
+to the left again.</p>
+
+<p>No. 439.--TREBLE POINT D'ESPAGNE is worked in exactly the same
+way as the open and close point d'Espagne, as may be seen in
+illustration No. 439.</p>
+
+<p>Three close stitches, one open, three close to the end of each
+row. Sew back, and in the next row begin one open, three close, one
+open, then close to the end; repeat the rows as far as necessary,
+taking care that <span class="newpage"><a name="page_459" id=
+"page_459">[459]</a></span> the close and open stitches follow in
+regular order. Diamonds, stars, and various patterns may be formed
+with this stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_439"><img alt=
+"Treble Point d'Espagne (Treble Spanish Point)." src=
+"images/image439.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 440.--POINT DE GRECQUE is begun from left to right, is
+worked backwards and forwards, and is begun by one stitch in loose
+point de Bruxelles and three of close point d'Espagne; then one
+Brussels, three point d'Espagne to the end of the row; in returning
+work back in the same manner.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_440"><img alt=
+"Point de Grecque (Grecian Point)." src=
+"images/image440.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 441. POINT DE VALENCIENNES (Valenciennes Stitch).--This
+stitch appears complicated, but is really easy to work. Begin at
+the left hand <span class="newpage"><a name="page_460" id=
+"page_460">[460]</a></span> and work six point de Bruxelles
+stitches at unequal distance, every alternate stitch being
+larger.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd row:</em> Upon the first large or long stitch work 9
+close button-hole stitches, then 1 short point de Bruxelles stitch
+under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so on to the end of
+row (right to left).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_441"><img alt=
+"Point de Valenciennes (Valenciennes Stitch)." src=
+"images/image441.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><em>3rd row:</em> 5 close button-hole in the 9 of previous row,
+1 short point de Bruxelles, 2 close in the Bruxelles stitch, 1
+short point de Bruxelles, 5 close, 1 short point de Bruxelles, 2
+close, l short, 5 close, 1 short, and repeat. 4th row: 5 close, 1
+short point de Bruxelles, 2 close, 1 short, 5 close, 1 short, 2
+close, l short, and repeat. Continue the rows until sufficient of
+the pattern is worked.</p>
+
+<center><img alt=
+"Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, with Twisted Stitch." src=
+"images/image442.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 442. POINT D'ALEN&Ccedil;ON.--This stitch is used to fill up
+narrow spaces <span class="newpage"><a name="page_461" id=
+"page_461">[461]</a></span> where great lightness is required.
+Point d'Alen&ccedil;on is worked under and over in alternate
+stitches, like hem stitch. Nos. 442 and 443 show point
+d'Alen&ccedil;on. In No. 442 a twisted stitch is worked over the
+plain point d'Alen&ccedil;on, which is clearly shown in No. 443;
+this twist is made by passing the thread three times round each
+plain bar, and working the knot shown in illustration No. 442 over
+<em>both</em> strands of the bar.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_443"><img alt=
+"Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, with Button-hole Stitch." src=
+"images/image443.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The POINT D'ALEN&Ccedil;ON No. 443 is a festoon of close
+button-hole stitch worked over the plain bars.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_444"><img alt=
+"Point d'Angleterre (Open English Lace)." src=
+"images/image444.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 444.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE (Open English Lace).--Open English
+Lace is thus worked:--Cover the space to be filled in with lines of
+thread about <span class="newpage"><a name="page_462" id=
+"page_462">[462]</a></span> one-eighth of an inch apart, then form
+cross lines, intersecting those already made and passing
+alternately under and over them; work a rosette on every spot where
+two lines cross, by working over and under the two lines about 16
+times round, then twist the thread twice round the groundwork
+thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossing threads.
+No. 445 shows this stitch much enlarged.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_445"><img alt="Point d'Angleterre " src=
+"images/image445.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 446,--POINT TURQUE (Turkish Stitch).--This easy and
+effective stitch looks well for filling either large or small
+spaces; the thread employed should be varied in thickness according
+to the size of the space to be filled. 1st row: Work a loop,
+bringing the thread from right to left, <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_463" id="page_463">[463]</a></span> passing the needle
+through the twist and through the loop, draw up tight and repeat.
+2nd row: 1 straight thread from right to left. 3rd row: Work the
+same as first using the straight thread in place of the braid, and
+passing the needle through the loop of previous row, as shown in
+illustration No. 446.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_446"><img alt="Point Turque." src=
+"images/image446.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 447.--CORDOVA STITCH is useful for varying other stitches.
+It resembles the point de reprise of guipure d'art, and is worked
+in a similar manner over and under the side of squares formed by
+straight and parallel lines. (See No. 448.)</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_447"><img alt=
+"Point de Cordova (Cordova Stitch)." src=
+"images/image447.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 448.--POINT DE REPRISE.--This stitch is worked by darning
+over and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_464" id=
+"page_464">[464]</a></span> under two threads, forming a triangle.
+The space is filled by parallel and crossway bars, placed at equal
+distances, and on the triangles thus produced point de reprise is
+worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_448"><img alt="Point de Reprise." src=
+"images/image448.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 449.--POINT BRABAN&Ccedil;ON (Braban&ccedil;on Lace) is
+worked as follows:--Left to right. 1st row: 1 long loose, 1 short
+loose, point de Bruxelles alternately to end of row. 2nd row: 7
+tight point de Bruxelles in the 1 long loose stitch, 2 short loose
+point de Bruxelles in the short loose stitch of previous row,
+repeat. 3rd row: Same as first.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_449"><img alt=
+"Point Braban&ccedil;on (Braban&ccedil;on Lace)." src=
+"images/image449.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_450"><img alt=
+"Point de Fillet (Net Groundwork Stitch)." src=
+"images/image450.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_451"><img alt=
+"Point de Fillet and Point de Reprise." src=
+"images/image451.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_465" id=
+"page_465">[465]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 450 is used for groundwork where Brussels net is not
+imitated, and is very effective. It is begun in the corner or
+crosswise of the space to be filled. A loose point de Bruxelles
+stitch is first taken and fastened to the braid, then passed twice
+through the braid as shown in illustration, and worked in rows
+backwards and forwards as follows:--1 point de Bruxelles stitch;
+before proceeding to the next stitch pass the needle <em>under</em>
+the knot, <em>over</em> the thread, and again <em>under</em> it, as
+shown in illustration No. 450. This stitch is very quickly worked.
+No. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_466" id=
+"page_466">[466]</a></span> 451 shows point de fillet applied in
+filling a space, with a few stitches of point de reprise worked
+upon this pretty groundwork.</p>
+
+<p>No. 452.--POINT DE TULLE.--This stitch is used as a groundwork
+for very fine work, and is worked in rows backwards and forwards in
+the same stitch as open point d'Espagne, page 457. When this is
+completed the work is gone over a second time, by inserting the
+needle under one twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at
+*, and bringing it out again at the dot. This produces a close
+double twist which is very effective.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_452"><img alt="Point de Tulle." src=
+"images/image452.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 453.--MECHLIN LACE (Mechlin Wheels).--This is one of the
+prettiest stitches in point lace, but also one of the most
+difficult to work correctly. It is thus worked:--Work a number of
+diagonal bars in button-hole stitch on a single thread in one
+direction, then begin in the opposite side the same way, and work 5
+or 6 stitches past the spot where the two lines cross, pass the
+thread round the cross twice under and over the thread to form a
+circle. Work in button-hole stitch half one quarter, make a dot by
+putting a fine pin in the loop instead of drawing the thread tight,
+and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_467" id="page_467">[467]</a></span> held
+open by the pin, then take it out, and continue as before.
+Beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on
+the wheel. Mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal
+and parallel lines of thread.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_453"><img alt="Mechlin Lace Wheels." src=
+"images/image453.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 454.--ESCALIER LACE.--This useful lace may be varied in
+pattern to any extent by placing the open stitches in any desired
+order; it then takes the name of diamond or Antwerp lace, according
+to the design. True escalier lace is made by working nine
+button-hole stitches close together; then miss 3--that is, work
+none in the space that 3 stitches would occupy--work 9, miss 3 as
+before to the end of row, begin the 2nd row 3 stitches from the
+end, to cause the open spaces to fall in diagonal lines--a
+succession of steps or stairs (<em>escalier</em>), which gives name
+to this stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_454"><img alt=
+"Escalier Lace Worked in Diamonds." src=
+"images/image454.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_468" id=
+"page_468">[468]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 455.--SPANISH POINT LACE is adorned with highly-raised
+scrolls, flowers, &amp;c. This is effected by working over an
+underlay of coarse white thread or over fine white linen cords. The
+wheels are worked by winding soft coarse linen thread round pencils
+or smooth knitting-pins of various sizes, and working over the
+circle thus obtained a succession of close button-hole stitches.
+These wheels are sewn on to the lace when completed. The groundwork
+of Spanish lace is usually worked in what are called Raleigh Bars
+(see page <a href="#page_477">447</a>), but this lace has sometimes
+for groundwork point de Venise. An easy mode of working this
+handsome lace is to trace the design upon very fine good linen;
+raise the thick parts as above directed, and embroider the whole in
+fine thick scalloped button-hole stitch; fill the ground with
+Raleigh bars, or, as shown in illustration No. 455, in treble point
+de Venise, and cut away the linen from beneath the ground-work.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_455"><img alt=
+"Spanish Point Lace (Worked &agrave; l'Anglaise)." src=
+"images/image455.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_469" id=
+"page_469">[469]</a></span>
+
+<p>WHEELS AND ROSETTES.</p>
+
+<p>Wheels or rosettes are used to fill up circles, or in
+combination to form lace. The simplest is--</p>
+
+<p>THE SORRENTO WHEEL.--Nos. 456 and 457.--This is worked by
+fastening the thread in the pattern to be filled up by means of the
+letters. Fasten it first at the place <em>a</em>, then at the place
+<em>b</em>, carrying it back to the middle of the first formed bar
+by winding it round, fasten the cotton at the place <em>c</em>,
+carrying it back again to the centre by winding it round the bar,
+and so on; then work over and under the bars thus formed as in
+English lace. See page <a href="#page_462">462</a>, and
+illustrations Nos. 456 and 457.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_456"><img alt=
+"456 and 457.--Sorrento Wheels" src=
+"images/image456.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 458.--ENGLISH WHEEL.--This is worked in the same manner as
+the Sorrento wheel, but instead of <em>winding</em> the thread over
+and under the bars, the needle is inserted under each bar and
+brought out again between the thread and the last stitch; this
+gives a kind of button-hole stitch, and gives the square, firm
+appearance possessed by this wheel.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_470" id=
+"page_470">[470]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_458"><img alt="English Wheel." src=
+"images/image458.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 459.--ROSETTE IN POINT D'ANGLETERRE.--This rosette is worked
+in a somewhat similar manner to the wheel above described, the
+difference being that after each stitch passed round and under the
+bars, the thread is passed loosely round in the reverse direction,
+as shown in illustration No. 459, before proceeding to make the
+next stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_459"><img alt=
+"Rosette in Raised Point d'Angleterre." src=
+"images/image459.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 460 is a rosette or star which is used to fill circles of
+braid, and forms the centre of many modern point lace patterns. It
+is worked upon <span class="newpage"><a name="page_471" id=
+"page_471">[471]</a></span> a pattern traced and pricked in small
+holes at equal distances. Two threads are employed, one coarse
+tracing thread, the other of finer thread. The coarse thread is
+laid on thus:--Pass the needle containing the fine thread, No. 12,
+through one of the pricked holes, over the tracing thread and back
+through the same hole; repeat, following the traced outline until
+the whole of the coarse thread is laid over the outline, then work
+over in tight button-hole stitch with picots or purls, as on the
+Raleigh bars (see page <a href="#page_477">477</a>). This mode of
+laying on tracing or outlining thread is also applied to fine braid
+and to point lace cord, as in the alphabet No. 400 (see page <a
+href="#page_500">500</a>).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_460"><img alt=
+"Rosette for centre of Point Lace Circles." src=
+"images/image460.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>BARS.</p>
+
+<p>The word <em>Bar</em> is applied to the various stitches used to
+connect the various parts of point lace work, and the beauty of the
+work depends greatly upon the class of bar and its suitability to
+the lace stitches used. The simplest bar is--</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_472" id=
+"page_472">[472]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 461.--THE SORRENTO BAR.--It is worked from right to left, a
+straight thread being carried across and fastened with a stitch.
+The return row consists of a simple twist under and over the
+straight thread; three of these bars are usually placed close
+together at equal distances between each group. The thread is sewn
+over the braid in passing from one spot to another.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_461"><img alt="Sorrento Bars." src=
+"images/image461.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_462"><img alt="Sorrento Bars." src=
+"images/image462.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Sorrento bars are also applied as shown in illustration No.
+462.</p>
+
+<p>No. 463.--D ALENCON BARS are worked upon point de Bruxelles
+edging, and <span class="newpage"><a name="page_473" id=
+"page_473">[473]</a></span> are only applied to the inner part of a
+pattern, never being used as groundwork bars. The thread is merely
+passed three times over and under the point de Bruxelles stitches,
+the length of these bars being regulated by the space to be filled;
+when the third bar is completed a tight point de Bruxelles stitch
+is used to fasten off the bar, the thread is passed through the
+next point de Bruxelles stitch, and a second bar begun.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_463"><img alt="D'Alen&ccedil;on Bars." src=
+"images/image463.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_464"><img alt="Venetian Bar." src=
+"images/image464.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 464.--THE VENETIAN BAR is so simple that it hardly needs
+description. It is worked over two straight threads in reverse
+button-hole stitch.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_474" id=
+"page_474">[474]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 465 shows the Venetian bar applied as the "veining" of leaf,
+and worked upon Sorrento bars.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_465"><img alt="Venetian Bar." src=
+"images/image465.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 466.--VENETIAN BARS are worked so as to form squares,
+triangles, &amp;c., in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread.
+The arrow in the illustration points to the direction for working
+the next.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_466"><img alt="Plain Venetian Bars." src=
+"images/image466.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p><a name="No_467"></a>No. 467.--BARS OF POINT
+D'ANGLETERRE.--These bars may be worked singly or to fill up a
+space, as in illustration. Work rosettes as in point d'Angleterre,
+page <a href="#page_461">461</a>; when each rosette is finished
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_475" id=
+"page_475">[475]</a></span>twist the thread up the foundation
+thread to the top, fasten with one stitch, then pass it under the
+parallel line running through the centre and over into the opposite
+braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting the threads
+as in illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_467"><img alt="Bars of Point d'Angleterre."
+src="images/image467.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 468.--POINT DE VENISE BARS (EDGED).--Begin at the right hand
+and stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid,
+fastening it with one tight stitch of point de Bruxelles. Upon this
+line work a succession of tight point de Bruxelles stitches. In
+every third stitch work one point de Venise stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_468"><img alt=
+"Point de Venise Bars (Edged)." src=
+"images/image468.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_476" id=
+"page_476">[476]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 469.--We now come to the most important feature of BARS--the
+<em>dot, picot</em>, or <em>purl</em>, for by all these names it is
+known. This dot is worked in various ways upon different lace bars.
+Dotted point de Venise bars are worked as follow:--</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_469"><img alt="Dotted Point de Venise Bars."
+src="images/image469.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Stretch the thread from right to left, on this work five tight
+stitches of point de Bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last
+stitch to hold it open and loose, pass the needle under the loose
+stitch and over the thread, as clearly shown in illustration No.
+469, and in this loop work three tight point de Bruxelles stitches.
+Then work five more stitches, and repeat to end of row.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_470"><img alt=
+"Picot or Dot on Sorrento Bar." src=
+"images/image470.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 470 shows a dot or picot upon a Sorrento bar worked between
+rows of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_477" id=
+"page_477">[477]</a></span> point de Bruxelles, three twisted
+stitches being worked into the loop left by the twisted thread;
+this forms a picot resembling satin stitch in appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Nos. 471 and 472.--RALEIGH BARS are worked over a foundation or
+network of coarse thread, twisted in places so as to more easily
+fall into the desired form.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_471"><img alt="Raleigh Bars." src=
+"images/image471.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_472"><img alt=
+"Network for Working Raleigh Bars." src=
+"images/image472.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>By following the numbering from No. 1 to 21, in No. 472, a
+square place may be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement
+applied to form groundwork of any shape desired. Upon this
+groundwork tight point de Bruxelles stitches are worked, and the
+dot worked upon these in one of the following ways:--</p>
+
+<p>DOT or PICOT:--</p>
+
+<p><em>1st Mode:</em> Five tight point de Bruxelles stitches, one
+loose point de Bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and over
+the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_478" id=
+"page_478">[478]</a></span> thread, as shown in point de Venise
+bars No. 469, draw up, leaving a small open loop as in tatting.
+Work five tight point de Bruxelles and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>2nd Mode:</em> Proceed as above, but instead of continuing
+the tight stitches work two or three tight stitches in the loop
+thus formed, and repeat.</p>
+
+<p><em>3rd Mode:</em> Work four tight point de Bruxelles stitches,
+one loose, through which pass the needle point, wind the thread
+three or four times round the point, as shown in illustration No.
+473, press the thumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and
+thread through the twists. This is a quick mode of making the
+picot, and imitates most closely the real Spanish lace.</p>
+
+<p>Illustration No. 473 also shows how this stitch may be applied
+as a <em>regular</em> groundwork, but the beauty of old point
+groundwork bars is the variety of form.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_479" id=
+"page_479">[479]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_473"><img alt=
+"Third mode of making Picots or Dots." src=
+"images/image473.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>EDGES AND PURL FINISH.</p>
+
+<p>The correct edging of lace is a most important part of this art,
+and care should be taken to work a proper edge for each kind of
+lace. Sorrento edging should be worked upon Limoges lace. Spanish
+lace requires a full rich edge, as shown in No. 478, &amp;c. The
+simplest edge is point de Bruxelles, which is worked somewhat like
+the stitch No. 433, and is secured by a knot worked in the braid.
+Many lace-workers omit this knot.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_480" id=
+"page_480">[480]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 475.--SORRENTO EDGING is worked with one short and one long
+stitch alternately.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_474"><img alt="Point de Bruxelles Edging."
+src="images/image474.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_475"><img alt="Sorrento Edging." src=
+"images/image475.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 476.--POINT DE VENISE is worked precisely like that stitch
+(see page <a href="#page_456">456</a>), three and even four
+stitches being worked in the loop.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_476"><img alt="Point de Venise Edging." src=
+"images/image476.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 477.--POINT D'ANGLETERRE EDGING is worked in point de
+Bruxelles, the thread being again drawn through the braid before
+proceeding to the next stitch. This edging is strong and
+useful.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_477"><img alt="Point d'Angleterre Edging."
+src="images/image477.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 478.--POINT D'ESPAGNE EDGING.--This stitch is easily worked.
+Insert <span class="newpage"><a name="page_481" id=
+"page_481">[481]</a></span> the point of the needle through the
+braid and wind the thread round it 20 times, draw the needle
+through these windings and draw the picot tight, sew over the braid
+the space of 3 stitches, and repeat.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_478"><img alt="Point d'Espagne Edging." src=
+"images/image478.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 479.--ANTWERP EDGE.--This edge is only a variety of point
+d'Angleterre edging, and differs only in the mode of making the
+knot; the thread is passed over, under, and through the loop formed
+by the point de Bruxelles lace.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_479"><img alt="Antwerp Edge." src=
+"images/image479.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>NOTE.--It will be observed that the stitches here given are much
+enlarged for the sake of clearness in showing details.</p>
+
+<a name="POINT_LACE_PATTERNS"></a>
+
+<h2>POINT LACE PATTERNS.</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_482" id=
+"page_482">[482]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 480.--<em>Star in Point Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 20.</p>
+
+<p>Trace the outline upon paper or leather, lay the braid on as
+directed. Work the centre in Sorrento bars, and on these work a
+rosette in point d'Angleterre, the edge in point d'Angleterre
+edging, and the wheels in open English lace.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_480"><img alt="Star in Point Lace." src=
+"images/image480.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 481.--<em>Medallion in Point Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Linen Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>This medallion is useful for cravat ends and for a number of
+purposes, as trimming for sachets, dresses, &amp;c. Having placed
+the braid as before directed, work an English rosette in the
+centre, fill in the ground with <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_483" id="page_483">[483]</a></span> point de fillet or with
+point de Bruxelles. An edging of Spanish point completes this
+pretty medallion.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_481"><img alt="Medallion in Point Lace."
+src="images/image481.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 482.--<em>Point Lace Border</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>This border represents the completed work shown on p. 454. A
+point <span class="newpage"><a name="page_484" id=
+"page_484">[484]</a></span> d'Angleterre rosette is worked in each
+circle. The plain braid is edged by Sorrento edging. Venice bars
+are worked above the trimming, and treble point de Venise edges the
+border.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_482"><img alt="Point Lace Border." src=
+"images/image482.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 483.--<em>Point Lace Border</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 10.</p>
+
+<p>This border is both easily and quickly worked in Sorrento bars.
+The edge is worked in two rows of point de Bruxelles.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_483"><img alt="Point Lace Border." src=
+"images/image483.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 484.--<em>Insertion in Limoges Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Plain linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion will be found very useful, being so quickly
+worked. <span class="newpage"><a name="page_485" id=
+"page_485">[485]</a></span> Edge the braid with Sorrento edging,
+fill up with bars and plain point d'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento
+wheels, No. 456.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_484"><img alt="Insertion in Limoges Lace.]"
+src="images/image484.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 485--<em>Point Lace Border for Handkerchief.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine lace braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 24.</p>
+
+<p>This border is suited for a handkerchief or for trimming a
+square bodice. The braid is not tacked on by stitches running
+through the centre, as is usual in point lace braids, but sewn on
+by passing a thread from underneath over the braid and out through
+the same hole, as is done by lace-workers with a thick thread; this
+forms the design. The stitches employed in this pattern are Raleigh
+bars, which connect the work; Sorrento edging, which finishes the
+whole outline; English rosettes filling the open spaces. Point lace
+cord may be used for this in place of braid.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_486" id=
+"page_486">[486]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_485"><img alt=
+"Point Lace Border for Handkerchief" src=
+"images/image485.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_487" id=
+"page_487">[487]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>No. 486.--<em>Star-Centre for Toilette Cushion in Point
+Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread Nos. 16 and 12.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_486"><img alt=
+"Star-centre for Toilette Cushion in Point Lace." src=
+"images/image486.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This beautiful star will be found useful for other purposes than
+as a toilette cushion cover, and is worked as follows:--English
+rosette in centre; Sorrento wheels in the 4 ovals, worked with No.
+12 thread; point de Bruxelles ground, worked with No. 16; braid
+edged by dotted Venetian edges. The eight spaces may be filled with
+2 or 4 contrasting stitches, taking care that they contrast well,
+and are placed alternately, and worked in No. 12.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_488" id=
+"page_488">[488]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_487"><img alt="Cravat End in Point Lace"
+src="images/image487.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_489" id=
+"page_489">[489]</a></span>
+
+<p>487.--<em>Cravat End in Point Lace</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine braid: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>This cravat is worked in Sorrento wheels, point d'Alen&ccedil;on
+bars, and Sorrento edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<center><a name="image_488"><img alt="Point Lace Edging." src=
+"images/image488.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_489"><img alt="Point Lace Edgings" src=
+"images/image489.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>488 <em>and</em> 489.--<em>Point Lace Edgings</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread Nos. 12 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>These edgings can be used as a finish to insertions and other
+trimmings or for edging couvrettes. No. 488 is worked with Sorrento
+wheels; the edge in two rows of point de Bruxelles, a straight
+thread being drawn <span class="newpage"><a name="page_490" id=
+"page_490">[490]</a></span> from the end to the beginning of each
+scallop over which the second row is worked. No. 489 is worked with
+the same materials in treble point de Venise, edged by the same,
+and finished off with a row of point de Bruxelles, the upper edge
+being worked in the same way.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>490.--<em>Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet,
+&amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Linen braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread Nos. 10 and 16.</p>
+
+<p>This design may be used for a variety of purposes, and is
+extremely effective. The principal stitches required are given at
+the sides of the pattern. <em>a</em> is Valenciennes lace,
+<em>b</em> Brussels net, <em>c</em> Venetian spotted, <em>d</em>
+Sorrento edging, <em>e</em> Mechlin wheel, <em>f</em> English
+rosette, <em>g</em> Raleigh bars.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_491" id=
+"page_491">[491]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_490"><img alt=
+"Design in Point Lace for Collar, Lappet, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image490.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_492" id=
+"page_492">[492]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>491.--<em>Oval for Cravats, &amp;c.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Point lace cord; muslin; embroidery cotton; Messrs.
+Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 14 and 18.</p>
+
+<p>This beautiful oval is worked in point lace and embroidery. This
+is begun from the centre on the muslin by overcasting the space
+filled by a wheel. The eyelet-holes are then worked, and the satin
+stitch ornament raised and prepared for working. The edge, of point
+lace cord, is then laid on, and the under portion edged in tight
+and open point de Bruxelles, the centre of the circles being worked
+in point de Bruxelles. The light groundwork is worked entirely in
+Mechlin wheels, the satin stitch being worked when these are
+completed. This pattern can be enlarged and applied to many
+purposes. The muslin is cut away when the whole work is
+finished.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_491"><img alt=
+"Oval Pattern for Ornamenting Cravats, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image491.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>492.--<em>Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 12 or 20.</p>
+
+<p>We give two sizes of thread, as this design is capable of many
+uses, and the size of the thread differs with these. The pattern is
+worked in English rosettes and bars (see <a href="#No_467">No.
+467</a>). No. 488 edging looks well with this pattern.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_493" id=
+"page_493">[493]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_492"><img alt=
+"Point Lace Trimming for Square Bodice." src=
+"images/image492.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_494" id=
+"page_494">[494]</a></span>
+
+<p>493--<em>Point Lace Collar.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 22.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_493"><img alt="Point Lace Collar." src=
+"images/image493.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_495" id=
+"page_495">[495]</a></span>
+
+<p>Set on the braid or cord by passing a thread through a hole
+pricked in the pattern over the braid and out again through the
+same hole. Edge the braid with point de Bruxelles, the design being
+filled by Mechlin wheels, Sorrento wheels, point de feston, and the
+mixed stitch shown in No. 494, which is composed of
+d'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento bars, and is easily worked. Those who
+cannot work Mechlin wheels easily, can substitute close English, as
+shown in illustration No. 495. The bars are Sorrento.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_494"><img alt=
+"D'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento Bars." src=
+"images/image494.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_495"><img alt="Close English Wheels." src=
+"images/image495.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_496" id=
+"page_496">[496]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_496"><img alt="Point Lace Collar." src=
+"images/image496.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_497" id=
+"page_497">[497]</a></span>
+
+<p>496.--<em>Point Lace Collar.</em></p>
+
+
+
+<p>Materials: Fine braid or cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 22.</p>
+
+<p>This collar is worked in the same way as No. 493, though the
+stitches vary. The Grecian line is worked in point de reprise, the
+pattern in close English wheels, point de reprise, point de
+Bruxelles, English rosettes, and Raleigh bars.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>497.--<em>Point Lace Lappet.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Braid; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 16 or 24, according to the fineness required.</p>
+
+<p>This lappet is exceedingly pretty. It is composed of the
+following stitches:--Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, point de tulle,
+English rosettes, Sorrento bars, d'Alen&ccedil;on bars, dotted
+Venise bars, and the fancy stitch point d'Anvers, which is not a
+true point lace stitch, but which is much employed in modern
+point.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_498" id=
+"page_498">[498]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_497"><img alt="Point Lace Lappet." src=
+"images/image497.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_498"><img alt="Point d'Anvers." src=
+"images/image498.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_499"><img alt="Point Grecque." src=
+"images/image499.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Point Grecque is another useful variety of fancy stitch, and so
+easily worked as to be a favourite stitch with beginners.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_499" id=
+"page_499">[499]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_500"><img alt="Letter A in Point Lace." src=
+"images/image500.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_501"><img alt="Letter A Enlarged." src=
+"images/image501.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_500" id=
+"page_500">[500]</a></span>
+
+<p><em>500 to 502.--Alphabet in Point Lace. (See end
+papers.)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Point lace cord; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 36.</p>
+
+<p>This alphabet is useful for marking pocket-handkerchiefs, and
+for initials for sachets, &amp;c. The cord is laid upon the pattern
+and pricked out by passing a thread up through a hole over the
+cord, and back through the same hole; then pass on to the next
+hole, and repeat. The holes should be about an eighth of an inch
+apart, or nearer when the pattern is finely convoluted. The letters
+are worked in point de Bruxelles, point d'Alen&ccedil;on, and
+dotted Sorrento bars. No. 501 shows the letter A greatly enlarged,
+to show the mode of working.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<h4>TABLE OF THREADS SUITED TO VARIOUS ARTICLES WORKED IN POINT
+LACE.</h4>
+
+<table summary=
+"TABLE OF THREADS SUITED TO VARIOUS ARTICLES WORKED IN POINT LACE."
+border="2" cellpadding="4">
+<tr>
+<td>Caps</td>
+<td>36&nbsp;&nbsp;" &nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Collars</td>
+<td>30&nbsp;&nbsp;" &nbsp;&nbsp; "&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Couvrettes</td>
+<td>2&nbsp;&nbsp; 4&nbsp;&nbsp; 6&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cravats</td>
+<td>18&nbsp;&nbsp; 30&nbsp;&nbsp; "&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>D'Oyleys</td>
+<td>8&nbsp;&nbsp; 10&nbsp;&nbsp; 12&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dress Trimmimgs</td>
+<td>22&nbsp;&nbsp; 30&nbsp;&nbsp; "&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Edgings</td>
+<td>14&nbsp;&nbsp; 30&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Handkerchiefs</td>
+<td>30&nbsp;&nbsp; 36&nbsp;&nbsp; 40&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Insertions, coarse</td>
+<td>6&nbsp;&nbsp; 8&nbsp;&nbsp; 12&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>" fine</td>
+<td>24&nbsp;&nbsp; 30&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Point lace cord runs about twelve yards to the hank.</p>
+
+<p>Point lace edged braid runs thirty-six yards on cards.</p>
+
+<p>Plain linen twelve yards in each hank.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_501" id=
+"page_501">[501]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_502" id="page_502">[502]</a></span>
+
+<h2>GUIPURE D'ART</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_503" id=
+"page_503">[503]</a></span> <a name=
+"INSTRUCTIONS_AND_PATTERNS_IN_GUIPURE_D'ART"></a>
+
+<h3>INSTRUCTIONS AND PATTERNS IN GUIPURE D'ART</h3>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>Ancient Guipure was a lace made of thin vellum, covered with
+gold, silver, or silk thread, and the word Guipure derives its name
+from the silk when thus twisted round vellum being called by that
+name. In process of time the use of vellum was discontinued, and a
+cotton material replaced it. Guipure lace was called <em>intelle
+&agrave; cartisane</em> in England in the sixteenth century.
+Various modern laces are called Guipure, but the word is
+misapplied, since Guipure lace is that kind only where one thread
+is twisted round another thread or another substance, as in the
+ancient Guipure d'Art.</p>
+
+<p>In every design where lace can be introduced, Guipure d'Art will
+be found useful. It looks particularly well when mounted upon
+quilted silk or satin. The squares, when worked finely, look well
+as toilet-cushions, or, if worked in coarser thread, make admirable
+couvrettes, and as covers for eider-down silk quilts are very
+elegant. Guipure squares should be connected by guipure lace,
+crochet, or tatting, or they may be <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_504" id="page_504">[504]</a></span> edged with narrow guipure
+lace and joined at the corners only when placed over coloured silk
+or satin; thus arranged, a sofa-cushion appears in alternate
+squares of plain and lace-covered silk; a ruche of ribbon and fall
+of lace to correspond completes this pretty mounting.</p>
+
+<p>Not one of the least important attractions of Guipure d'Art is
+the speed with which it is worked, and the ease with which fresh
+patterns are designed by skilful workers.</p>
+
+<p>GUIPURE D'ART is an imitation of the celebrated ancient Guipure
+Lace, and is worked in raised and intersected patterns upon a
+square network of linen thread, Mecklenburg thread of various sizes
+being used for this purpose. The needles employed are blunt, and
+have large eyes, to admit the linen thread.</p>
+
+<p>Materials required: One frame of wire covered with silk ribbon;
+one square of Mecklenburg thread net (<em>fillet</em>), either
+coarse or fine; Mecklenburg thread; netting-needles and meshes of
+various sizes.</p>
+
+<p>The netted foundation, or "<em>fillet</em>," upon which this
+elegant work is embroidered, can be made by ladies very easily, and
+at much less cost than when bought ready made.</p>
+
+<p>The square is worked by netting with coarse No. 2 or fine No.10
+thread over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch or more, in
+rows backwards and forwards. Begin with 2 stitches, and increase 1
+at the end of every row till you have one more stitch than is
+required for the number of holes. Thus, if a square of 26 holes is
+required, continue to increase up to 27 stitches, then decrease 1
+at the end of every row till 2 stitches only remain. The last 2
+stitches are knotted together without forming a fresh stitch.</p>
+
+<p>The completed foundation is laced upon the frame, taking the
+lacing cotton through the double edge formed by the increased and
+decreased <span class="newpage"><a name="page_505" id=
+"page_505">[505]</a></span> stitches. If the four corners of the
+netting are tied at each corner of the frame before beginning the
+lacing, that operation is greatly facilitated. The netting should
+be laced as tightly as possible, it being far easier to darn on
+than when loose.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_503"><img alt="Frame for Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image503.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Ladies who wish to excel in working guipure d'art should
+practise each of the stitches until they attain perfect regularity
+and quickness in their execution. Two or three hours devoted to
+this in the first instance will not be time wasted, as the most
+elaborate pattern will be worked with ease as soon as the stitches
+are mastered.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_506" id=
+"page_506">[506]</a></span>
+
+<p>The Mecklenburg thread of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co., of
+Derby, will be found a better colour than any other, as it closely
+resembles the shade of the ancient guipure lace.</p>
+
+<p>It is sold only in spools of 200 yards each, and the numbers run
+as follow; No. 2, 4, 6, 8, lo, 12, 16, 20; No. 2 being the
+coarsest, and No. 20 the finest.</p>
+
+<p>The principal stitches used in guipure d'art are POINT D'ESPRIT,
+POINT DE TOILE, POINT DE FESTON, POINT DE REPRISE, POINT DE
+BRUXELLES, and WHEELS and STARS. POINT D'ESPRIT is worked with
+finer cotton than the foundation, say No. 10 on a foundation of No.
+6. It consists of a succession of small loops, as will be seen
+clearly in the illustration. The learner should begin from the mark
+* No. 503, and working a row of loops the length required, turn the
+frame and work loops on the opposite half of each square
+intersecting the first worked loops in the centre of each
+intervening bar of netting. A careful examination of Nos. 503 and
+506 will explain this more clearly than is possible in words.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_504"><img alt="Point d'Esprit." src=
+"images/image504.jpg"></a></center>
+
+&lt;
+
+
+<p>POINT DE TOILE, or LINEN STITCH, is plain darning under and over
+each thread; this forms a fine close groundwork, and is much used
+in guipure <span class="newpage"><a name="page_507" id=
+"page_507">[507]</a></span> d'art. Care should be taken to keep the
+same number of stitches in each square, both along and across; the
+number of threads shown in illustration No. 504 is 4 only, but 6
+and even 8 are used in many netted foundations in fine
+patterns.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_505"><img alt="Point de Toile." src=
+"images/image505.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>POINT DE FESTON is worked by a series of overcast stitches, as
+seen by illustration 506, which clearly shows the manner of
+working. The frame is turned at each stitch, the stitches are taken
+across the squares, and increase in length at the top of the
+square.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_506"><img alt="Point de Feston." src=
+"images/image506.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_508" id=
+"page_508">[508]</a></span>
+
+<p>POINT DE REPRISE, or DARNING, is worked by stretching 2 or 3
+threads over 1, or 2, or more squares. The thread is darned over
+and under, and the needle used to arrange the last stitch while
+passing through to form the next. This stitch is very easily
+acquired. It is always worked with coarser thread than the
+foundation; No. 2 thread should be employed for a coarse
+groundwork. No. 510 shows this stitch used to form stars, figures,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_507"><img alt="Point de Reprise." src=
+"images/image507.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_508"><img alt="Leaf." src=
+"images/image508.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_509" id=
+"page_509">[509]</a></span>
+
+<p>POINT DE BRUXELLES, as shown on pages 506 and 507, is a kind of
+loose button-hole stitch, and is used for forming various patterns
+and for filling up squares. It also forms "leaves," when the number
+of stitches is decreased each row until the leaf finishes off in a
+point. Nos. 509 and 510 clearly show this stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_509"><img alt="Point de Bruxelles." src=
+"images/image509.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_510"><img alt="Point de Bruxelles." src=
+"images/image510.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_510" id=
+"page_510">[510]</a></span>
+
+<p>WHEELS are easy to work, and are begun in the centre. Four
+threads are taken across, as shown in design No. 511; the thread is
+twisted in bringing it back to the centre, and the wheel formed by
+passing the thread under and over the netting and the crossing
+threads. It is fastened off on the back of the several wheels.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_511"><img alt="Wheel (commenced)." src=
+"images/image511.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Wheel No. 513 is a square wheel, and is worked in the same
+manner, with the addition of point d'esprit loops, through which,
+and under and over the cross-twisted threads, 4 or 5 rows of thread
+are passed.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_511" id=
+"page_511">[511]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_512"><img alt="Wheel" src=
+"images/image512.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_513"><img alt="Square Wheel." src=
+"images/image513.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_514"><img alt=
+"Wheel larger than its real size." src=
+"images/image514.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>STARS are of various form, as shown in Nos. 516, 517, 518, 519,
+and 520.</p>
+
+<p>No. 516 is worked in point de feston (see page 507) round a
+single square hole, which is filled in by a small wheel or
+rosette.</p>
+
+<p>No. 517 is worked in point de feston and point de Bruxelles,
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_512" id=
+"page_512">[512]</a></span> alternately round a centre simply
+crossed by point d'esprit threads.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_516"><img alt="Star." src=
+"images/image516.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 518 is more elaborate, and is worked thus:--Begin at the
+place marked <em>a</em>; twist the linen thread 3 times round the
+nearest thread, draw it on to the knot <em>b</em>; repeat this 3
+times, following the order of the letters; twist the linen thread
+also between the threads, as can be <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_513" id="page_513">[513]</a></span> seen from the
+illustration, and fasten it underneath the knot <em>a</em>; for the
+wheel fasten on the cotton afresh and work the remaining pattern in
+darning stitch (point de reprise).</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_517"><img alt="Star." src=
+"images/image517.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_518"><img alt="Star" src=
+"images/image518.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 520 consists of a double cross formed by twisted loops of
+linen thread. Copy these loops exactly from illustration 520.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_514" id=
+"page_514">[514]</a></span>
+
+<p>One part of the straight cross lies underneath, then comes the
+slanting cross, and lastly, the other part of the straight
+cross.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_519"><img alt="Detail of Star." src=
+"images/image519.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_520"><img alt="Star." src=
+"images/image520.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>In the centre the loops of linen thread are fastened with two
+rounds of stitches. (See illustration 520).</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_515" id=
+"page_515">[515]</a></span>
+
+<p>OVERCAST STITCH is worked like embroidery overcast, and forms
+the stems of the flowers and leaves of guipure d'art; it is worked
+over one or two coarse threads. It is employed in No. 530, and
+forms the triangles in the centre of the middle squares.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_521"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image521.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>521.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art.</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Guipure frame netting of 6 holes wide; Mecklenburg
+thread No. 8 or 10; needle No. 7.</p>
+
+<p>For the netted foundation, which is six holes wide, begin at one
+corner with 2 stitches, work 5 rows, at the end of each of which
+increase 1 stitch, continue to work the strip with the same number
+of stitches, alternately decreasing 1 at the end of one row and
+increasing 1 at the end of the next. For decreasing net 2 stitches
+together, for increasing net 2 stitches in the same hole. When the
+strip is sufficiently long, complete it by decreasing in the same
+proportion as the increasing at the beginning. As the pattern is so
+clearly shown in the illustration, it will be very easy to work
+from it. It is worked in point de feston <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_516" id="page_516">[516]</a></span> and star wheels; the
+border is in point d'esprit. The insertion is finished on either
+side with a row of button-hole stitches.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>522.--<em>Lace Border in Guipure D'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8 or 10.</p>
+
+<p>This border may be used for various purposes; it makes a pretty
+edging for toilet cushions if worked in fine thread, and looks
+equally well for trimming couvrettes, &amp;c., in No. 2 thread. The
+netting is nine holes wide, the stitches employed are point
+d'esprit and point de feston, the edge is in buttonhole stitch, the
+netted ground is cut away outside the scallops.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_522"><img alt=
+"Lace Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image522.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_517" id=
+"page_517">[517]</a></span>
+
+<p>523.--<em>Square for D'Oyley</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Frame; 1 square of netting; Mecklenburg reel thread
+Nos. 8 and 10; needle No. 6.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_523"><img alt=
+"Pattern of Square for D'Oyley." src=
+"images/image523.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a
+d'oyley, or pincushion. The three other corners of the square are
+worked exactly like the one seen in illustration; the rosette in
+the centre is shown in full size. The square is worked in point
+d'esprit, linen stitch, and <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_518" id="page_518">[518]</a></span> point de reprise. Each of
+the leaves of the foliage is worked in one hole of the netting;
+they are worked by throwing the cotton three times across the hole,
+and working darning stitch on them. The stem is worked in overcast
+on the thread of the netting. The daisy in the centre is worked
+like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of the
+netting.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_524"><img alt=
+"Corner Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image524.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>524 <em>and</em> 525.--<em>Corner Borders in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+2 for couvrettes, No. 8 for pillow-cases, No. 16 for lace
+edgings.</p>
+
+<p>These corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small
+couvrettes; the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch,
+darning stitch, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_519" id=
+"page_519">[519]</a></span> point de Bruxelles, and wheels. The
+edge is formed by buttonhole stitches. The netting is cut away
+after these are worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_525"><img alt=
+"Corner Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image525.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>526.--<em>Strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art.</em></p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8.</p>
+
+<p>This strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in
+zigzag lines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit
+and point de toile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the
+triangle left by the zigzag line. This pattern is so easy to work
+that it hardly needs <span class="newpage"><a name="page_520" id=
+"page_520">[520]</a></span> description, the only part requiring
+care being the squares of point de feston; these are begun in the
+centre, and the thread should be drawn rather tightly so as to form
+a good square.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_526"><img alt=
+"Pattern for a strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image526.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_521" id=
+"page_521">[521]</a></span>
+
+<p>527.--<em>Small Square</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Frame; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and No. 16 for the
+pattern.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_527"><img alt="Small Square." src=
+"images/image527.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of
+each square, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in
+breadth. It is embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit,
+and wheels. The outer edge is worked round in button-hole stitch.
+Larger squares are worked in the same manner, only a few rows
+larger in length and breadth. The squares are fastened together
+with a few stitches, and sewn on the pincushion or any article they
+are intended to ornament.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>528.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8, or 16 for very fine work.</p>
+
+<p>This strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all
+kinds of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_522" id=
+"page_522">[522]</a></span> lingeries. The size of the material
+depends, of course, on the use to be made of the insertion. The
+guipure pattern is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit, the
+raised leaves in darning stitch. The edges are worked round with
+buttonhole stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_528"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image528.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>529.--<em>Rosette in Guipure d'Art.</em></p>
+
+<center><a name="image_529"><img alt="Rosette in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image529.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+6.</p>
+
+<p>This rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. A
+larger wheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of
+overcast.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_523" id=
+"page_523">[523]</a></span>
+
+<p>530.--<em>Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: One guipure frame; Mecklenburg thread Nos. 6 and 12;
+needle No. 7.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_530"><img alt=
+"Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image530.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in
+guipure d'art. The outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a
+border in linen stitch. There are large stars in the corners; these
+stars are worked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the
+netting at the points of each brand; in the centre of the star
+there is a wheel (see No. 515) edged with buttonhole stitch. The
+pattern for the centre, one quarter of which only is seen in the
+illustration, consists of 4 branches forming small triangles in
+point de Bruxelles, 4 open-worked <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_524" id="page_524">[524]</a></span> stars or wheels worked
+over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branched centre of point de
+feston with a wheel in the middle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>531 <em>and</em> 532.--<em>Square Patterns in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s linen thread No. 2 for
+the netting, and their Mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches
+No. 8.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_531"><img alt=
+"Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image531.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 531. The outer border of this pretty square is worked in
+point d'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a
+round of small wheels or rosettes.</p>
+
+<p>For these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first
+square stitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three
+other knots, so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the
+centre point of the <span class="newpage"><a name="page_525" id=
+"page_525">[525]</a></span> cross, passing alternately under and
+over its branches, then twist the cotton over the threads of the
+foundation until the next square is reached, and begin another
+wheel.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_532"><img alt=
+"Square Pattern in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image532.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The centre of No. 531 is composed of wheels and point de
+reprise; the pattern round the centre is worked in point de feston,
+differing a little from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the
+illustration clearly shows the difference.</p>
+
+<p>No. 532 has similar borders to No. 531; the centre is occupied
+by a star (see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels
+surround this; the square stitches between are filled with small
+wheels and with groups of long loops, fastened together in sheaves.
+Point d'esprit and point de toile, worked one way only, complete
+this square.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_526" id=
+"page_526">[526]</a></span>
+
+<p>533 <em>to</em> 536.--<em>Four Patterns in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+2 or 16, according to the size of the work.</p>
+
+<p>These four patterns will be found useful for filling up small
+squares, or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_533"><img alt="Pattern in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image533.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half
+fill each square of the netting. This pattern must be worked with
+great regularity.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_534"><img alt="Pattern in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image534.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_527" id=
+"page_527">[527]</a></span>
+
+<p>No. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit.</p>
+
+<p>No. 535 is a thread twisted and taken <em>across</em> each
+square, and resembles lace stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_535"><img alt="Pattern in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image535.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with
+point d'esprit. This grounding is very effective.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_536"><img alt="Pattern in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image536.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>537.--<em>Lace Border for Veils, &amp;c</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+16; strip of square netting of the required length; oblong
+frame.</p>
+
+<p>This simple border is easily and quickly worked. The edge is
+overcast, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_528" id=
+"page_528">[528]</a></span> the ground worked in point d'esprit,
+the border in point de toile, and the pattern in point de reprise.
+When completed the netting is cut away from the overcast edge.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_537"><img alt=
+"Lace Border for Veils, &amp;c." src=
+"images/image537.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>538 <em>and</em> 538<em>a</em>.--<em>Squares in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10 or 16, according to the
+fineness required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_538"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image538.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or
+handkerchiefs. They are worked on netting with very fine cotton in
+the usual manner, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_529" id=
+"page_529">[529]</a></span> beginning on two stitches in one corner
+The different stitches of the guipure darning can be distinctly
+seen in illustration, and are point de feston, point de reprise,
+point de toile, and point d'esprit on No. 538, and the same
+stitches surround a wheel in No. 538<em>a</em>.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_538a"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image538a.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_539"><img alt="Guipure d'Art Insertion."
+src="images/image539.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>539.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread
+Nos. 8 to 16; strip of netting length, required.</p>
+
+<p>This insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in
+point de feston. The ground in point d'esprit.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_530" id=
+"page_530">[530]</a></span>
+
+<p>540 <em>and</em> 541.--<em>Square in Guipure Point de Venise
+(Reticella)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Coarse or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 4 or 12.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_540"><img alt="Square in Point de Venise."
+src="images/image540.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_541"><img alt=
+"Quarter Square in Reticella Work (Enlarged)." src=
+"images/image541.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This square is worked in the so-called point de Venise, together
+with other squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions,
+&amp;c. It is <span class="newpage"><a name="page_531" id=
+"page_531">[531]</a></span> worked on coarse or fine linen,
+according to the use you wish to make of it. Prepare a square piece
+of linen, by drawing out long and cross threads, so as to form
+perfect squares. In the pattern No. 540, which is worked on fine
+linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long and cross way;
+8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threads have
+been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form the
+framework. Then fasten the piece of linen on card-board, and work
+close <span class="newpage"><a name="page_532" id=
+"page_532">[532]</a></span> button-hole stitch round the inner edge
+Then work with darning stitch over the long and cross threads of
+the ground.</p>
+
+<p>From No. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times
+larger than full size, it is easy to see how the framework is
+darned. When the latter is entirely darned, work the patterns in
+the different squares in button-hole stitch. The circular and
+serpentine patterns consist of 3 rows of button-hole stitch; the
+patterns which imitate whole rosettes and half rosettes are worked
+in rows of button-hole stitch. For each row the thread must be
+first drawn from one place to the other, as can be seen in
+illustration, and fastened on the framework. The knots in the last
+button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch when
+completed, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through the
+first completed knot. It is easy, however, to work all the patterns
+from No. 541. The dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the
+direction of the patterns which are wanting there. The square is
+edged all round with an open-work hem, which can also be worked
+from No. 541.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>542 <em>and</em> 543.--<em>Corner Patterns in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+14.</p>
+
+<p>These patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs,
+&amp;c. The netted ground is to be worked from the corner. Cast on
+2 stitches, and work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1
+stitch at the end of every row. The pattern is worked in point
+d'esprit, linen, and darning stitch, as can be seen in
+illustration.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_533" id=
+"page_533">[533]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_542"><img alt="Corner Borders." src=
+"images/image542.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>544.--<em>Flower for Ornamenting Cravats and Caps in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Black or coloured silks, or Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_544"><img alt="Flower in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image544.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse
+silk in <span class="newpage"><a name="page_534" id=
+"page_534">[534]</a></span> guipure d'art on netting. This pattern
+can also be worked with white thread or black silk in point de
+reprise.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>545.--<em>Work Basket with Covering of Darned Netting</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting;
+Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 16.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_545"><img alt=
+"Work Basket Covered with Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image545.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin,
+fastened on cardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. The stand of
+varnished bamboo is twelve inches long, seven and a half inches
+wide, and five and a half inches high. The case inside is made of
+cardboard, covered on both sides with blue satin, and the guipure
+d'art on the outside only. The stitches used are point de toile,
+point de reprise, and point d'esprit.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_535" id=
+"page_535">[535]</a></span>
+
+<p>546 <em>and</em> 547.--<em>Squares in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12 or 20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness
+required.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_546"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image546.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting
+lingerie, cravats, collars, &amp;c. Repeated at regular intervals
+on a larger centre, they are likewise suitable for couvrettes,
+cushions, pillow-cases, &amp;c.; they are worked in darning and
+linen stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_547"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image547.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>548.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required
+length; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or
+12.</p>
+
+<p>This simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked
+at each side of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of buttonhole
+stitches being worked between the rows.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_536" id=
+"page_536">[536]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_0549"><img alt="Guipure d'Art Insertion."
+src="images/image549.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>550 <em>and</em> 551.--<em>Squares for Antimacassar</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Square of netting of 12 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 8.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_550"><img alt="Square for Antimacassar."
+src="images/image550.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>No. 550 is very quickly worked. The border and groundwork in
+point d'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in
+point de <span class="newpage"><a name="page_537" id=
+"page_537">[537]</a></span> toile. Wheels fill in the four holes in
+the centre of the squares.</p>
+
+<p>No. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in
+point de feston, the other stitches are point de toile. Wheels in
+part of star pattern No. 518.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_551"><img alt="Square for Antimacassar."
+src="images/image551.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>552 <em>and</em> 553.--<em>Borders in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8 or 16.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_538" id=
+"page_538">[538]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_552"><img alt="Border in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image552.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and,
+worked with fine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. The netted
+ground of the borders is to be worked in the size seen in
+illustration; for the border No. 553 darn the ground in button-hole
+stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit, and point de feston; the
+pattern No. 552 is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit; small
+wheels are also to be worked. Both borders are to <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_539" id="page_539">[539]</a></span> be
+worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut away
+along the outside.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_553"><img alt="Border in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image553.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>554 <em>and</em> 555.--<em>Squares in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+20; netted squares of 7 and 8 holes.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_554"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image554.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>These two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats,
+lappets for caps and lingeries. They are worked in darning and
+linen stitch. The centre part of the square, No. 554, is a small
+wheel covered with raised stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_555"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image555.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>556.--<em>Square in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12.</p>
+
+<p>The centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well
+as the border; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in
+the centre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_556"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image556.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_541" id=
+"page_541">[541]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>557.--<em>Insertion in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Strip of netting of 4 holes in width; Messrs. Walter
+Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit,
+square wheels are worked in the centre of the strip.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_557"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image557.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>558 <em>to</em> 563.--<em>Different Strips of Insertion,
+Rosettes and Lace, in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread Nos. 16 and 20.</p>
+
+<p>These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very
+suitable for <span class="newpage"><a name="page_542" id=
+"page_542">[542]</a></span> ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &amp;c.
+The ground of insertion, Nos. 558 and 560, is worked with fine
+white cotton over a fine steel knitting-needle, in slanting
+netting, and darned with thread in the manner seen in
+illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 rounds wide, and
+worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned patterns
+can be worked from illustration.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_558"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image558.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_559"><img alt="Insertion in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image559.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_560"><img alt="Rosette in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image560.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine
+knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st
+round <span class="newpage"><a name="page_543" id=
+"page_543">[543]</a></span> work 2 stitches in every stitch. In the
+2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitches in every increased stitch of the
+preceding round, and in every other stitch 1 stitch. In the 6th
+round take a steel knitting-needle double the size of the first,
+and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the preceding round.
+Then work the 7th round over the fine needle as follows:--</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_561"><img alt="Border in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image561.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first,
+and work 1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the
+first, and then 1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round
+work always 2 stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed
+stitches, 1 stitch in all the other stitches. Lastly, darn the
+rosette, from illustration, with fine glazed cotton.</p>
+
+<p>For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563,
+cast on 6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then
+in the 1st round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8
+rounds 2 stitches in every increased stitch, in all the other
+stitches 1 stitch. The last <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_544" id="page_544">[544]</a></span> (10th) round is worked
+without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, from illustrations,
+with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point d'esprit.
+The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole
+stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These
+two rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_562"><img alt="Rosette in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image562.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_563"><img alt="Rosette in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image563.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of
+straight netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side,
+and worked round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration.
+This ground is <span class="newpage"><a name="page_545" id=
+"page_545">[545]</a></span> darned, from No. 561, in darning
+stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch, and ornamented with bars and
+wheels (See illustration).</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_564"><img alt=
+"Corner Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image564.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>564 <em>and</em> 565.--<em>Corner Borders in Guipure
+d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+20 for handkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes.</p>
+
+<p>These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes,
+&amp;c., or as strips of insertion for cushions or pillowcases.
+They are worked with <span class="newpage"><a name="page_546" id=
+"page_546">[546]</a></span> more or less fine cotton, according to
+the use they are meant for. They are edged round with button-hole
+stitch on the outside, and finished off with a row of crochet purl.
+Work 1 double in every button-hole stitch; after every other stitch
+draw out the loop on the needle about one-tenth of an inch; take
+out the needle and leave the loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last
+double stitch, and cast it off with the next double stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_565"><img alt=
+"Corner Border in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image565.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>566.--<em>Jewel Case, forming Pincushion</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin
+and silk cord; guipure netting.</p>
+
+<p>This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with
+satin, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_547" id=
+"page_547">[547]</a></span> and slightly quilted; it is also
+covered on the top with satin, and ornamented all round with a
+satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in the manner seen
+in illustration. The top of the box is stuffed so as to form a
+pincushion. It is then covered with guipure d'art No. 567. Ornament
+all round with silk cords, and at the corners with bows of satin
+ribbon.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_566"><img alt="Jewel Case, with Pincushion."
+src="images/image566.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>567.--<em>Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and
+Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point de
+reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced
+occasionally.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_548" id=
+"page_548">[548]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_567"><img alt=
+"Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case (No. 566)." src=
+"images/image567.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_549" id=
+"page_549">[549]</a></span>
+
+<p>568.--<em>Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (See page <a href=
+"#page_580">580</a>.)</em></p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+20, and cotton No. 80.</p>
+
+<p>For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our
+illustration two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight
+strip of netting for the foundation, which must count as many holes
+in width as are required for the width of the covering. The size of
+the holes depends on the size of the knitting-needle or mesh which
+you use. The pattern is worked with cotton No. 80, over a steel
+knitting-needle which measures two-fifths of an inch round. Begin
+the strip in one corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and work in rows
+backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every
+row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holes
+in width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same
+number of stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the
+end of 1 row, and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip
+is 250 stitches long. The strip is finished off in a straight line
+at the bottom by working a certain number of rows in which the last
+stitch remains untouched. At the beginning of the row do not work 1
+stitch ever the mesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the
+preceding row, so that the cotton is drawn on tight. When the strip
+is completed, trace from No. 568 the outlines for the pattern of
+each of the eight parts of the parasol with double thread, in such
+a manner that two parts lie next to each other, but reversed, that
+is, the point of one part must lie next to the wide part of the
+next part. Then work in each part the pattern seen in illustration,
+and afterwards each part round with button-hole stitch, working
+over the double outline. Cut out the different parts, and sew them
+together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_550" id=
+"page_550">[550]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_569"><img alt=
+"Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image569.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>569.--<em>Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+18; green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk
+cord.</p>
+
+<p>The size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. The
+netting must <span class="newpage"><a name="page_551" id=
+"page_551">[551]</a></span> be fastened in a frame, and darned with
+fine thread; the flowers are worked in darning stitch, and the
+ground in point d'esprit. The cushion is made of green satin,
+perfumed with poudre d'iris. When the netting has been fastened on,
+it is edged all round with a green satin ruche, and green silk
+cord, forming loops at every corner.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_570"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image570.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>570.--<em>Square in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Netted square of 26 stitches; Messrs. Walter Evans
+and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>This pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline
+of <span class="newpage"><a name="page_552" id=
+"page_552">[552]</a></span> point de reprise. This outline may be
+worked in close button-hole stitch. Point de toile is used for the
+groundwork, upon which point de reprise is worked.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>571 <em>and</em> 572.--<em>Work Case in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Blue satin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s
+Mecklenburg thread No. 16; blue silk cord.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_571"><img alt=
+"Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Back)." src=
+"images/image571.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>This little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five
+inches and four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with
+a loop and button. The back, front, side, and the flap are worked
+all in one piece. The netting is worked with white thread No. 12,
+over a mesh measuring at least two-fifths of an inch round. For the
+flap the netting must be slanted off on both sides; this is done
+either by decreasings, or by cutting off the corners of the work.
+The latter is then darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and
+point d'esprit, from No. 572, which shows the front of the case,
+and from No. 571, which shows the back. The <span class=
+"newpage"><a name="page_553" id="page_553">[553]</a></span> netting
+is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sides with
+button-hole stitches on the right side. The flap is edged with
+button-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop to
+correspond. The case is edged all round with blue silk cord.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_572"><img alt=
+"Work Case in Guipure d'Art (Front)." src=
+"images/image572.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>573.--<em>Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg
+thread No. 12; carved oak stand; glac&eacute; silk; cords;
+tassels.</p>
+
+<p>Banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from the
+mantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration No. 573. The banner
+is 23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glac&eacute;
+silk, and edged with a lace border of guipure d'art. The design for
+the banner is given in page 554. Work the netting for the
+groundwork over a larger or smaller mesh, according to the size you
+wish it to be. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, point de
+reprise, and point de toile. When the <span class="newpage"><a
+name="page_554" id="page_554">[554]</a></span> pattern is
+completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with a gathered
+border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords and
+tassels. The banner may be finished off in close button-hole
+stitch, instead of adding the lace border.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_573"><img alt=
+"Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art." src=
+"images/image573.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_555" id=
+"page_555">[555]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_575"><img alt="Border in Guipure d'Art" src=
+"images/image575.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>575.--<em>Border in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+8.</p>
+
+<p>This border is suited for couvrettes. It is worked in point
+d'esprit, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_556" id=
+"page_556">[556]</a></span> point de reprise, or plain darning
+stitch, edged by a row of button-hole, and finished with a crochet
+edging.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_576"><img alt="Square in Guipure d'Art."
+src="images/image576.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>576.--<em>Square in Guipure d'Art</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No.
+12; netted square of 20 holes.</p>
+
+<p>This pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de
+feston, point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the
+centre as that shown on page 514, omitting the alternate points;
+border of point d'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars.
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_557" id=
+"page_557">[557]</a></span> Table of the right size of Mecklenburg
+thread to use in working:--</p>
+
+<table summary=
+"Table of the right size of Mecklenburg thread to use in working"
+border="2" cellpadding="4">
+<tr>
+<th>&nbsp;</th>
+<th>NO.</th>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Antimacassars</td>
+<td>2</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Borders</td>
+<td>4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Handkerchiefs</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Insertions</td>
+<td>8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lace edgings and insertions</td>
+<td>16</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lamp shades</td>
+<td>16</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Parasol covers</td>
+<td>18</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sachets</td>
+<td>12</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sofa cushions</td>
+<td>8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Toilet cushions</td>
+<td>10</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Toilet mats</td>
+<td>10</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>FRAMES</p>
+
+<p>May be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares.</p>
+
+<p>Oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace
+edgings.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_558" id=
+"page_558">[558]</a></span>
+
+<h2>BERLIN WORK</h2>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_559" id=
+"page_559">[559]</a></span> <a name="BERLIN_WORK_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>
+<h3>BERLIN WORK INSTRUCTIONS</h3>
+
+<p>Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon
+canvas with wool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are
+common cross stitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or
+velvet stitch, tent stitch, and others. The materials and needle
+must always be carefully chosen of a corresponding size. For common
+cross stitch and raised stitch Penelope canvas must be used; for
+small articles, such as slippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin
+wool is preferable; for larger ones fleecy wool or double Berlin
+wool (the latter, however, is much more expensive). For Gobelin
+stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas (not Penelope) is required.
+Purse silk is often used for the latter; it is more brilliant than
+floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generally used for other
+stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas better than
+purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle, which is a
+much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Before
+beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be
+hemmed or <span class="newpage"><a name="page_560" id=
+"page_560">[560]</a></span> sewn over with wool. Care must be taken
+not to crumple the canvas in the course of the work. It is best to
+roll one end of the canvas upon a round piece of deal while the
+other end is kept down upon the table with a lead cushion. Handsome
+artistic patterns should always be worked in a frame. When you
+undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre, and complete
+one half before you commence the other. Always work the stitches in
+the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very essential
+to the beauty and regularity of the pattern.</p>
+
+<p>Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those
+colours that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When
+the pattern is finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be
+drawn too tightly, otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If
+the wool is too coarse for the canvas, one long stitch is to be
+made from left to right as far as the particular colour is to be
+worked, and over this long stitch, cross back in the usual way.</p>
+
+<p>The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross
+stitch; illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same.</p>
+
+<p>We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in
+writing and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which
+are used in Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great
+in number nor too simple or too elaborate in execution for those
+who aspire to become Berlin workers.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_561" id=
+"page_561">[561]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_577"><img alt="Common Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image577.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 577.--The common cross stitch is worked in rows
+backwards and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width
+(square of the canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked
+from left to right; the 2nd row, which completes the stitches, from
+right to left. Illustration 577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches
+and 1 row in course of working.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_578"><img alt="Long Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image578.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like
+the preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in
+width.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_562" id=
+"page_562">[562]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_579"><img alt="Long Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image579.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like
+the preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2
+stitches, and in the next row the stitches are worked between those
+in the preceding row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards
+and forwards; each stitch is completed before beginning the
+next.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_580"><img alt="Slanting Cross Stitch." src=
+"images/image580.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 580.--The long slanting cross stitch is worked like
+No. 578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting,
+the 2nd is straight. The places for inserting the needle and for
+drawing it out are marked on the illustration with a cross and
+dot.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_563" id=
+"page_563">[563]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_581"><img alt="Damask Stitch." src=
+"images/image581.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 581.--The damask stitch is worked in single rows
+from left to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The
+stitches of one row come between those of the next. The cross and
+dot shown in illustration are where to insert and draw out the
+needle.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_582"><img alt="Rep Stitch." src=
+"images/image582.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the
+preceding. The first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads
+in height and 2 in width, the second half, like the common cross
+stitch, from right to left over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas
+threads; each stitch is completed at once. The illustration shows
+the last stitch being worked; the first half of the stitch is
+completed; the dot shows where the needle must be inserted for the
+second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed on
+illustration.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_564" id=
+"page_564">[564]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_583"><img alt="Leviathan Stitch." src=
+"images/image583.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 583.--The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting
+and 1 straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in
+width. Each stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half
+of the stitch completed and the wool as it must be placed for
+working the first half of the straight cross stitch.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_584"><img alt="Leviathan Stitch." src=
+"images/image584.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 584.--The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like
+the preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads
+in the different rows, as may be seen from illustration.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_565" id=
+"page_565">[565]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_585"><img alt="Double Leviathan Stitch."
+src="images/image585.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 585.--The double leviathan stitch is a variety of
+the preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in
+width. Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long
+cross stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width.
+Illustration 585 shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_586"><img alt="Tent Stitch." src=
+"images/image586.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 586.--Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1
+stitch in height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to
+right.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_566" id=
+"page_566">[566]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_587"><img alt="Slanting Gobelin Stitch."
+src="images/image587.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 587.--The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on
+undivided canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height
+and 2 in width, divided from the next stitch only by an interval of
+1 thread.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<center><a name="image_588"><img alt="Straight Gobelin Stitch."
+src="images/image588.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 588.--The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2
+threads in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches
+appear more raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece
+of wool.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_567" id=
+"page_567">[567]</a></span>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 589.--The raised or velvet stitch is worked over
+small round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2
+similar meshes and as many threaded needles as there are colours in
+the work; make first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the
+common cross stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight
+under the place where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the
+same place, so as to form a slanting stitch on the right and on the
+wrong side; then begin to work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above
+it and draw it out in a slanting direction underneath. On the wrong
+side of the work a regular cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589
+shows 2 rows of velvet stitch completed and 2 rows being worked;
+the first of the latter is yet on the mesh, the second being worked
+so as to show the position of the wool upon the mesh. Observe that
+the rows of the velvet stitch are worked upwards, and that 2 meshes
+are necessary, because the lower one must not be drawn out before
+the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open if
+preferred.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_589"><img alt="Raised or Velvet Stitch."
+src="images/image589.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_568" id=
+"page_568">[568]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_590"><img alt="Plaited Stitch." src=
+"images/image590.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 590.--The plaited stitch is worked like the
+herring-bone stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height
+and 4 in width. Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited
+stitch completed, and the place where the needle is to be inserted
+for the next stitch is marked by a dot. For the next stitch the
+needle is carried under the 2 threads below the stitches of the
+preceding row.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATION 591.--The plush stitch is also worked upwards.
+Begin to work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through
+the canvas over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a
+slanting direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop
+hanging down about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more
+common cross stitch to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be
+worked over flat meshes. Work a common cross stitch at the end of
+every row. When the work is completed the loops are cut open and
+clipped, as may be seen from illustration.</p>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_569" id=
+"page_569">[569]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_591"><img alt="Plush Stitch." src=
+"images/image591.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+
+
+<p>ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.--Three Berlin wool work borders for
+trimming baskets, &amp;c. No. 592.--The 2 outer rows which edge the
+border are worked in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is
+crossed in the centre with a back stitch.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_592"><img alt="-Berlin Work Border." src=
+"images/image592.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite
+each other, which are formed of long straight stitches of different
+lengths. The <span class="newpage"><a name="page_570" id=
+"page_570">[570]</a></span> squares in the centre are formed in the
+same way, and are completed in the middle with a knot.</p>
+
+<p>No. 593.--The ground is worked in cross stitch, the raised
+patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there is a
+cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2
+threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No.
+594.--The petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height
+and in width, <span class="newpage"><a name="page_571" id=
+"page_571">[571]</a></span> and consisting of 4 slanting
+stitches.</p>
+
+<center><a name="image_593"><img alt="Berlin Work Border." src=
+"images/image593.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<center><a name="image_594"><img alt="Berlin Work Border." src=
+"images/image594.jpg"></a></center>
+
+<p>In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in
+cross stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of
+scallops, formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1
+slanting stitch. It is easy to work these stitches from
+illustration. The choice of colours depends upon what use the
+border is intended for and upon personal taste.</p>
+
+<hr>
+<br>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_572" id=
+"page_572">[572]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_573" id="page_573">[573]</a></span>
+
+
+<h3>PLATES</h3>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_574" id=
+"page_574">[574]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_575" id="page_575">[575]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_65"><img alt="TATTED ANTIMACASSAR" src=
+"images/image065.jpg"><br>
+ <font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+TATTED ANTIMACASSAR<br>
+</font></a>
+(<em>see page</em> <a href=
+"#page_80">80.)</a></center>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_576" id=
+"page_576">[576]</a></span> <span class="newpage"><a name=
+"page_577" id="page_577">[577]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_213"><img alt="COUVRETTE IN APPLIQU&Eacute;"
+src="images/image213.jpg"><br>
+<font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+COUVRETTE IN APPLIQU&Eacute; (213, 214 and
+215)<br>
+</font></a>
+(<em>See page</em> <a href="#page_184">184.)</a> </center>
+ <span class="newpage"><a name="page_578" id="page_578">[578]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_334"><img alt="KNITTED TABLE COVER " src=
+"images/image334.jpg"><br>
+<font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+KNITTED TABLE COVER<br>
+</font></a>
+(<em>see page</em> <a href=
+"#page_347">347.)</a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_579" id=
+"page_579">[579]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_337"><img alt="KNITTED D'OYLEY " src=
+"images/image337.jpg"><br>
+ <font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+KNITTED D'OYLEY <br>
+ </font></a>
+(<em>see page</em> <a href="#page_352">352.)</a></center>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_580" id=
+"page_580">[580]</a></span>
+
+<center><a name="image_568"><img alt=
+"PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART" src="images/image568.jpg"><br>
+<font color="#000000" face="ARIAL" size="-1"><br>
+PARASOL COVER IN GUIPURE D'ART<br>
+ </font></a>
+(<em>see page</em> <a href="#page_549">549)</a></center>
+
+<br>
+ <br>
+<br>
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_581" id=
+"page_581">[581]</a></span> <a name="INDEX"></a>
+
+<h3>INDEX.</h3>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Acacia Spray in embroidery, <a href="#image_162">162</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Antimacassar, crochet <a href="#image_276">276</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Antimacassar in tatting <a href="#image_65">65</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Antimacassar, knitted <a href="#image_318">318 to320</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Appliqu&eacute;, pattern for a couvrette in <a href=
+"#image_213">213 to 215</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arm-chair, covered with crochet <a href=
+"#image_254">254</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Arm-chair in crochet, patterns for <a href=
+"#image_255">255</a>, <a href="#image_256">256</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>BABY'S BOOT, knitted <a href="#image_326">326</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Bag, crochet silk, over rings <a href=
+"#image_245">245</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Banner screen in guipure d'art <a href="#image_573">573</a>, <a
+href="#image_573">574</a></li>
+
+<li>BARS, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">D'Alen&ccedil;on <a href=
+"#image_463">463</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre <a href=
+"#image_467">467</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, edged <a href=
+"#image_468">468</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, dotted <a href=
+"#image_469">469</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raleigh <a href="#image_471">471</a>, <a href=
+"#image_472">472</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento <a href="#image_461">461</a><a href=
+"#image_462">462</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, dotted <a href=
+"#image_469">469</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Venetian, plain <a href="#image_464">464</a>, <a
+href="#image_465">465</a>, <a href="#image_466">466</a></li>
+
+<li>Basket, small, crochet <a href="#image_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Basket, crochet <a href="#image_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Basket, crochet <a href="#image_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Basket, embroidered in chenille <a href=
+"#image_134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Bedford plaited lace (1851) <a href="#image_423">423</a></li>
+
+<li>Bed-quilt, knitted border for <a href="#image_327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>BERLIN WOOL-WORK INSTRUCTIONS, <a href="#page_559">p.
+559.</a></li>
+
+<li>Berlin work, borders i <a href="#image_592">592 to 594</a></li>
+
+<li>BERLIN STITCHES.</li>
+
+
+<li class="indent">Common cross stitch <a href=
+"#image_577">577</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Damask stitch <a href="#image_581">581</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Leviathan stitch <a href="#image_583">583</a>,
+<a href="#image_584">584</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Leviathan double stitch <a href=
+"#image_585">585</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long cross stitch <a href="#image_578">578</a>,
+<a href="#image_579">579</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plaited stitch <a href="#image_590">590</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plush stitch <a href="#image_591">591</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised or velvet stitch <a href=
+"#image_589">589</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Rep stitch <a href="#image_582">582</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slanting cross stitch <a href=
+"#image_580">580</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slanting Gobelin stitch <a href=
+"#image_587">587</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Straight Gobelin stitch <a href=
+"#image_588">588</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Tent stitch <a href="#image_586">586</a></li>
+
+<li>(Black lace) Buckingham point trolly (1851) <a href=
+"#image_422">422</a></li>
+
+<li>Bodice, knitted <a href="#image_324">324</a>, <a href=
+"#image_325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Boot, baby's, knitted <a href="#image_326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders, crochet <a href="#image_252">252</a>, <a href=
+"#image_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, embroidered <a href="#image_150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Border for a reading-desk in embroidery <a href=
+"#image_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Border for couvrettes, guipure d'art <a href=
+"#image_561">561</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art <a href=
+"#image_564">564</a>, <a href="#image_565">565</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders, guipure d'art <a href="#image_552">525</a>, <a href=
+"#image_553">553</a>, <a href="#image_557">557</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, guipure d'art <a href="#image_575">575</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in crochet and tatting <a href="#image_052">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in Oriental embroidery <a href="#image_179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting and crochet <a href="#image_6">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting and crochet <a href="#image_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting and crochet <a href="#image_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting and lace stitch <a href=
+"#image_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting, with beads <a href="#image_13">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Border in tatting, with crochet edging <a href=
+"#image_5">5</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, knitted <a href="#image_321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, tatting <a href="#image_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders, two crochet <a href="#image_274">274</a>, <a href=
+"#image_275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Border, with beads, tatted <a href="#image_13">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag <a href=
+"#image_169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Braces, embroidered <a href="#image_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Braces, knitted <a href="#image_338">338</a></li>
+
+<li>Brioche cushion in crochet, <a href="#image_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner <a href=
+"#image_212">212</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<span class="newpage"><a name="page_582" id=
+"page_582">[582]</a></span>
+
+<ul>
+<li>CAP, border for, in tatting <a href="#image_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Cap crown in tatting <a href="#image_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Cap in tatting <a href="#image_38">38</a>, <a href=
+"#image_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Chenille, basket embroidered in <a href=
+"#image_134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Cigar-case, embroidered <a href="#image_190">190</a></li>
+
+<li>Circle for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in tatting <a href=
+"#image_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Circle in tatting <a href="#image_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Circle in tatting <a href="#image_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Circle in tatting <a href="#image_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar in tatting <a href="#image_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar in tatting and darned netting <a href=
+"#image_28">28</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting <a href=
+"#image_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting <a href=
+"#image_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, pine pattern, in tatting <a href="#image_1">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, tatted <a href="#image_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, trimming for, in tatting <a href=
+"#image_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Collar, trimming for, in tatting <a href=
+"#image_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Comforters, &amp;c., knitting stitch for <a href=
+"#image_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery <a href=
+"#image_141">141</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner borders in guipure d'art <a href="#image_524">524</a>,
+<a href="#image_525">525</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner borders in guipure d'art <a href="#image_542">542</a>,
+<a href="#image_542">543</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner borders in guipure d'art <a href="#image_564">564</a>,
+<a href="#image_565">565</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner for handkerchief in point Russe embroidery <a href=
+"#image_149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner in embroidery <a href="#image_151">151</a></li>
+
+<li>Corner in embroidery <a href="#image_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Cotton, tatting, <a href="#page_82">p. 82</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette, centre of a tatted <a href="#image_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet <a href=
+"#image_250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette for arm-chair in crochet <a href=
+"#image_257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette in appliqu&eacute;, embroidery <a href=
+"#image_147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette in crochet <a href="#image_240">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Couvrette in tatting <a href="#image_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery <a href=
+"#image_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravats, &amp;c., in embroidery, patterns for <a href=
+"#image_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravats, &amp;c., in embroidery, patterns for <a href=
+"#image_185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat in tatting <a href="#image_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in embroidery <a href="#image_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in embroidery <a href="#image_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in raised embroidery <a href=
+"#image_156">156</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in tatting <a href="#image_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in tatting <a href="#image_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end in tatting and darned netting <a href=
+"#image_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat end, oval, in tatting <a href="#image_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat in muslin and tatting <a href="#image_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Cravat, muslin, embroidered <a href="#image_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, antimacassar in <a href="#image_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, arm-chair covered with <a href=
+"#image_254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, arm-chair, patterns for <a href="#image_255">255</a>,
+<a href="#image_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet bag, silk, over rings <a href="#image_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet basket, small <a href="#image_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet basket <a href="#image_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet basket <a href="#image_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet borders <a href="#image_252">252</a>, <a href=
+"#image_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet borders, two <a href="#image_274">274</a>, <a href=
+"#image_275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, brioche cushion <a href="#image_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, couvrette for arm-chair <a href=
+"#image_257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, couvrette in <a href="#image_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in <a href=
+"#image_250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet D'Oyleys in Imitation of Point Lace</li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 1<a href="#image_262">262</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 2 <a href="#image_263">263</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 3 <a href="#image_264">264</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 4 <a href="#image_265">265</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 5 <a href="#image_266">266</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 6 <a href="#image_267">267</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 7 <a href="#image_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 8 <a href="#image_269">269</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 9 <a href="#image_270">270</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 10 <a href="#image_271">271</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet garter <a href="#image_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet, insertion <a href="#image_284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>CROTCHET INSTRUCTIONS</li>
+
+
+<li class="indent">Crotchet hook,Page <a href=
+"#page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Foundation chain, double, <a href=
+"#image_217">217</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Foundation chain, plain, <a href=
+"#image_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Foundation chain, purl, <a href=
+"#image_218">218</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spots, raised, <a href=
+"#image_232">232</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spots, hollow, <a href=
+"#image_233">233</a>.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spots, open work, <a href=
+"#image_234">234</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, lace, <a href="#image_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, lace, <a href="#image_261">261</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, purse in, over rings, <a href=
+"#image_248">248</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet rosettes, <a href="#image_280">280</a>, <a href=
+"#image_281">281</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet sovereign purse, <a href="#image_246">246</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, star in, <a href="#image_244">244</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Crotchet, stars in, <a href="#image_247">247</a>. CROCHET
+STITCHES</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cross stitch <a href="#image_224">224</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cross treble stitch <a href=
+"#image_229">229</a>, <a href="#image_230">230</a>, <a href=
+"#image_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Double long treble stitch <a href=
+"#image_228">228</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Double stitch <a href="#image_220">220</a>, <a
+href="#image_221">221</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long double stitch <a href=
+"#image_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long treble stitch <a href=
+"#image_227">227</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch <a href="#image_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch <a href="#image_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch <a href="#image_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised treble stitch <a href=
+"#image_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised ribbed stitch <a href=
+"#image_222">222</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised slanting stitch <a href=
+"#image_223">223</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slip stitch <a href="#image_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Treble stitch <a href="#image_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet trimming for a lady's chemise <a href=
+"#image_286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in
+appliqu&eacute; and velvet ribbon <a href="#image_282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet work, tobacco-pouch in <a href="#image_278">278</a>, <a
+href="#image_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Crochet work, work-basket in straw and <a href=
+"#image_272">272</a>, <a href="#image_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Curtains, knitted pattern for <a href="#image_339">339</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette <a href=
+"#image_250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Dalecarlian lace <a href="#image_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond in tatting <a href="#image_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond in tatting <a href="#image_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond in tatting <a href="#image_053">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond in tatting <a href="#image_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond netting <a href="#image_305">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond tatting for collars, &amp;c. <a href="#image_20">20</a></li>
+
+
+<li>D'Oyleys, Crochet, in Imitation of Point Lace</li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 1<a href="#image_262">262</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 2 <a href="#image_263">263</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 3 <a href="#image_264">264</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 4 <a href="#image_265">265</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 5 <a href="#image_266">266</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 6 <a href="#image_267">267</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 7 <a href="#image_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 8 <a href="#image_269">269</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 9 <a href="#image_270">270</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">No. 10 <a href="#image_271">271</a></li>
+
+<li>D'Oyley, knitted <a href="#image_337">337</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+
+<li>EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+
+<li class="indent">Antwerp <a href="#image_479">479</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre <a href=
+"#image_477">477</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Bruxelles <a href=
+"#image_474">474</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne <a href=
+"#image_478">478</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise <a href=
+"#image_476">476</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento <a href="#image_475">475</a></li>
+
+<li>Edging, embroidered <a href="#image_178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered border <a href="#image_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered border <a href="#image_150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered bouquet for travelling bag <a href=
+"#image_169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered braces <a href="#image_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for <a href=
+"#image_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for <a href=
+"#image_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner <a href=
+"#image_212">212</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered cigar-case <a href="#image_190">190</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered edging <a href="#image_178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered handkerchief <a href="#image_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered hanging letter-case <a href=
+"#image_176">176</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered in chenille, basket <a href=
+"#image_134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered key-bag <a href="#image_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered key-bag <a href="#image_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered knife-basket <a href="#image_159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered knife-basket <a href="#image_160">160</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered lace insertion <a href="#image_207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered lady's purse <a href="#image_157">157</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered letter-case, pattern for <a href=
+"#image_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered linen collar <a href="#image_193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered linen collar <a href="#image_194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered needle-book, pattern for <a href=
+"#image_166">166</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered needle-book, pattern for <a href=
+"#image_167">167</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for <a href=
+"#image_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered slipper, on Java canvas <a href=
+"#image_208">208</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for <a href=
+"#image_209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock <a href=
+"#image_195">195</a>, <a href="#image_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, acacia spray in <a href="#image_162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery and stitching, insertion in <a href=
+"#image_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, appliqu&eacute;, couvrette in <a href=
+"#image_147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery border for a reading-desk <a href=
+"#image_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, border in Oriental <a href=
+"#image_179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in <a href=
+"#image_141">141</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point Russe <a href=
+"#image_149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, corner in <a href="#image_151">151</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, corner in <a href="#image_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in <a href=
+"#image_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, cravat end in <a href="#image_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, cravat end in <a href="#image_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, cravat end in raised <a href=
+"#image_156">156</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, fuchsia spray in <a href="#image_161">161</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, glove-box in <a href="#image_174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, glove-box in <a href="#image_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, handkerchief border in <a href=
+"#image_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, handkerchief in <a href="#image_140">140</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_155">155</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_165">165</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_189">189</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, insertion in <a href="#image_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS, <a href="#page_83">p. 83.</a></li>
+
+<li>Bead partly covered <a href="#image_103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Blossom in satin stitch <a href="#image_101">101</a>, <a href=
+"#image_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell <a href="#image_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell, inner part <a href="#image_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell, part of <a href="#image_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders <a href="#image_118">118</a>, <a href=
+"#image_119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Ear of corn <a href="#image_112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower <a href="#image_115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower in satin stitch <a href="#image_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower appliqu&eacute;d on net <a href=
+"#image_117">117</a></li>
+
+<li>Heartsease <a href="#image_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Initials <a href="#image_123">123 to 130</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertions <a href="#image_120">120 to 122</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf <a href="#image_94">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf in raised satin stitch <a href="#image_90">90</a>, <a
+href="#image_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, raised <a href="#image_92">92</a>, <a href=
+"#image_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, raised <a href="#image_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, half of <a href="#image_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, centre of <a href="#image_100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised embroidered leaf <a href="#image_98">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised flower <a href="#image_111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised leaf <a href="#image_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised leaf <a href="#image_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised satin stitch leaf <a href="#image_90">90</a>, <a href=
+"#image_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Rose in satin stitch <a href="#image_108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Rose, petal for <a href="#image_109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Star <a href="#image_106">106</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in point de reprise <a href="#image_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in satin stitch <a href="#image_104">104</a>
+
+<li>STITCH, EMBROIDERY.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, back <a href="#image_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, button and eyelet holes <a href=
+"#image_86">86</a>, <a href="#image_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, button-hole scallop <a href=
+"#image_82">82 to 85</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, double overcast <a href=
+"#image_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, knotted <a href="#image_73">73</a>, <a
+href="#image_74">74</a>, <a href="#image_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, ladder <a href="#image_80">80</a>, <a
+href="#image_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, overcast <a href="#image_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point crois&eacute; <a href=
+"#image_71">71</a>, <a href="#image_72">72</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point de minute <a href=
+"#image_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point de plume <a href=
+"#image_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, satin, raised<a href="#image_76">76</a>,
+<a href="#image_77">77</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, scallop <a href="#image_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, shaded button-hole <a href=
+"#image_88">88</a>, <a href="#image_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, slanting overcast <a href=
+"#image_69">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, medallion for a purse in <a href=
+"#image_198">198</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, medallion for a purse in <a href=
+"#image_199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, medallion in point Russe <a href=
+"#image_210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, medallion in point Russc <a href=
+"#image_211">211</a></li>
+
+<li>EMBROIDERY, MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN.</li>
+
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in coral stitch <a href=
+"#image_353">353</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in floral <a href=
+"#image_361">361</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in florid style <a href=
+"#image_356">356</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in forget-me-nots <a href=
+"#image_352">352</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet, point d'or <a href=
+"#image_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet, raised satin stitch <a
+href="#image_358c">359</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet in satin stitch <a href=
+"#image_351">351</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet scalloped <a href=
+"#image_355">355</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, alphabet, small <a href=
+"#image_354">354</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, initials in <a href="#image_366">366
+to 417</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, monograms in <a href=
+"#image_366">366 to 417</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, names in <a href="#image_362">362 to
+418</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, sampler in <a href=
+"#image_358c">360</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, star alphabet, capitals <a href=
+"#image_349">349</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, star alphabet, small <a href=
+"#image_350">350</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Embroidery, white, alphabet in <a href=
+"#image_358">358</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &amp;c, in <a href=
+"#image_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_133">133</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &amp;c., in <a href=
+"#image_139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, pattern for trimming lingeries in <a href=
+"#image_143">143</a>, <a href="#image_143">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery pattern for what-not (full size) <a href=
+"#image_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, penwiper in <a href="#image_186">186</a> <a href=
+"#image_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, rose-leaf in <a href="#image_171">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, sandwich-case in <a href="#image_154">154</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery stars <a href="#image_137">137</a>, <a href=
+"#image_143">143</a>, <a href="#image_143">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery stars <a href="#image_180">180</a>, <a href=
+"#image_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, table-napkin ring in <a href=
+"#image_158">158</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in <a href="#image_163">163</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in <a href="#image_164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, travelling-bag in <a href="#image_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, trimming in, for bodices<a href=
+"#image_170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, Venetian border in <a href=
+"#image_206">206</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, Venetian, lappet or sash end in <a href=
+"#image_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, waste-paper basket in <a href=
+"#image_191">191</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, white, toilet-cushion cover in <a href=
+"#image_171">171</a>, <a href="#image_171">172</a>, <a href=
+"#image_171">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, wing of bird <a href="#image_171">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, work-bag in <a href="#image_200">200</a></li>
+
+<li>Embroidery, wreath in, for centre of pincushion or toilet-mat<a
+href="#image_148">148</a></li>
+
+<li>English netting <a href="#image_308">308</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Fichu, netted <a href="#image_315">315</a>, <a href=
+"#image_316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower in guipure d'art <a href="#image_544">544</a></li>
+
+<li>Frame for guipure d'art <a href="#page_503">503</a></li>
+
+<li>Full-sized circle for embroidered pen-wiper <a href=
+"#image_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Fuchsia spray in embroidery <a href="#image_161">161</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Garter, crochet <a href="#image_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Glove-box in embroidery <a href="#image_174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Glove-box in embroidery <a href="#image_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Gauge, knitting<a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art</li>
+
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, banner-screen in <a href="#image_573">573</a>,
+<a href="#image_573">574</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, border for couvrettes in <a href=
+"#image_561">561</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art t, borders for handkerchief, corner <a href=
+"#image_564">565</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, borders in <a href="#image_552">552</a><a href=
+"#image_553">557</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, border in <a href="#image_575">575</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, corner borders in <a href="#image_524">524</a>,
+<a href="#image_525">525</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, corner borders in <a href="#image_542">542</a>,
+<a href="#image_542">543</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, corner borders in <a href="#image_564">564</a>,
+<a href="#image_565">565</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, flower in <a href="#image_544">544</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, frame for <a href="#image_503">503</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_521">521</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_526">526</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_528">528</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_539">539</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_547">548</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_558">558</a></li>
+
+<li>Gaipure d'art, insertion in <a href="#image_559">559</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, insertions, &amp;c., in <a href="#image_558">558
+to 563</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, instructions in, <a href="#page_503">p.
+503.</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art jewel-case cover <a href=
+"#image_567">567</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, jewel-case covered in <a href=
+"#image_566">566</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, lace borders for veils in <a href=
+"#image_537">537</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, lace border in <a href="#image_522">522</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, parasol-cover in <a href=
+"#image_568">568</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, quarter square in <a href=
+"#image_530">530</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, rosettes in <a href="#image_529">529</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, rosettes in <a href="#image_562">562</a>562<a
+href="#image_563">563</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art stitches.</li>
+
+<li>Grounding <a href="#image_533">533 to 536</a> Point de
+Bruxelles <a href="#image_509">509</a>, <a href=
+"#image_510">510</a> Point d'esprit <a href="#image_504">504</a>.
+Point de feston <a href="#image_506">506</a> Point de reprise <a
+href="#image_507">507</a>507<a href="#image_508">508</a> Point de
+toile <a href="#image_505">505</a> Stars <a href="#image_516">516
+to 520</a> Wheels <a href="#image_511">511 to 515</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, scent-sachet in <a href=
+"#image_569">569</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, small squares <a href="#image_527">527</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares for antimacassar <a href=
+"#image_550">550</a>, <a href="#image_551">551</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, square for d'oyley in <a href=
+"#image_523">523</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in, for dresses <a href=
+"#image_546">546</a>, <a href="#image_547">547</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, square in <a href="#image_531">531</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, square in <a href="#image_532">532</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, square in <a href="#image_556">556</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in <a href="#image_570">570</a>, <a
+href="#image_576">576</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in <a href="#image_533">533 to
+536</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in <a href="#image_538">538</a>, <a
+href="#image_538a">538A</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, squares in <a href="#image_554">554</a>, <a
+href="#image_554">554</a> (</li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art), square in reticella work <a href=
+"#image_540">540</a> (</li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, enlarged <a href=
+"#image_541">541</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, work-basket covered with <a href=
+"#image_545">545</a></li>
+
+<li>Guipure d'art, work-case in <a href="#image_571">571</a>, <a
+href="#image_572">572</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Handkerchief border in embroidery <a href=
+"#image_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Handkerchief in embroidery <a href="#image_140">140</a></li>
+
+<li>Hanging letter-case embroidered <a href=
+"#image_176">176</a></li>
+
+<li>Honiton guipure lace <a href="#image_424">424</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet <a href="#image_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, crochet A href="#image_284"&gt;284</li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_155">155</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_165">165</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_189">189</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery <a href="#image_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in embroidery and stitching <a href=
+"#image_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d art <a href="#image_521">521</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_526">526</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_528">528</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_539">539</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_547">548</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_558">558</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in guipure d'art <a href="#image_559">559</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertions in guipure d'art <a href="#image_558">558 to
+563</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertions in tatting <a href="#image_2">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting <a href="#image_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting and crochet <a href=
+"#image_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting and crochet <a href=
+"#image_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting and lace stitch <a href=
+"#image_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion in tatting for trimming lingeries <a href=
+"#image_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, knitted <a href="#image_340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, wide, tatting <a href="#image_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, wide, tatting <a href="#image_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, wide, tatting <a href="#image_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertion, worked in tatting <a href="#image_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>INSTRUCTIONS IN BERLIN WOOL WORK, <a href="#page_559">p.
+559.</a></li>
+
+<li>Berlin work, borders in <a href="#image_592">592 to 594</a>
+
+<p>Berlin stitches</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Common cross stitch <a href=
+"#image_577">577</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Damask stitch <a href="#image_581">581</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Leviathan stitch <a href="#image_583">583</a>,
+<a href="#image_584">584</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Leviathan double stitch <a href=
+"#image_585">585</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long cross stitch <a href="#image_578">578</a>,
+<a href="#image_579">579</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plaited stitch <a href="#image_590">590</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plush stitch <a href="#image_591">591</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised or velvet stitch <a href=
+"#image_589">589</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Rep stitch <a href="#image_582">582</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slanting cross stitch <a href=
+"#image_580">580</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slanting Gobelin stitch <a href=
+"#image_587">587</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Straight Gobelin stitch <a href=
+"#image_588">588</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Tent stitch <a href="#image_586">586</a></li>
+
+<li>INSTRUCTIONS IN CROCHET <a href="#page_185">P.185</a> Crochet
+hook, <a href="#page_185">185.</a> Foundation chain, double <a
+href="#image_217">217</a> Foundation chain plain <a href=
+"#image_216">216</a> Foundation chain, purl <a href=
+"#image_218">218</a> Spots, raised <a href="#image_232">232</a>
+Spots, hollow <a href="#image_233">233</a> Spots, open work <a
+href="#image_234">234</a></li>
+
+<li>INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY, <a href="#page_83">p.83</a></li>
+
+<li>Bead partly covered <a href="#image_103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Blossom in satin stitch <a href="#image_101">101</a>, <a href=
+"#image_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell <a href="#image_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell, inner part <a href="#image_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Bluebell, part of <a href="#image_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Borders <a href="#image_118">118</a>, <a href=
+"#image_119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Ear of corn <a href="#image_112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower <a href="#image_115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower in satin stitch <a href="#image_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Flower appliqu&eacute;d on net <a href=
+"#image_117">117</a></li>
+
+<li>Heartsease<a href="#image_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Initials <a href="#image_123">123 to 130</a></li>
+
+<li>Insertions <a href="#image_120">120 to 122</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf <a href="#image_94">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, half of <a href="#image_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, centre of <a href="#image_100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf in raised satin stitch <a href="#image_90">90</a>, <a
+href="#image_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, raised <a href="#image_92">92</a>, <a href=
+"#image_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Leaf, raised <a href="#image_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised embroidered leaf <a href="#image_98">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised flower <a href="#image_111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised leaf <a href="#image_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised leaf <a href="#image_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Raised satin stitch leaf <a href="#image_90">90</a>, <a href=
+"#image_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Rose in satin stitch <a href="#image_108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Rose, petal for <a href="#image_109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Star <a href="#image_106">106</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in point de reprise <a href="#image_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in satin stitch <a href="#image_104">104</a>
+
+<p>STITCH, EMBROIDERY.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, back <a href="#image_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, button and eyelet holes <a href=
+"#image_85">85</a>, <a href="#image_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, button-hole scallop <a href=
+"#image_82">82 to85</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, double overcast <a href=
+"#image_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, knotted <a href="#image_73">73</a><a
+href="#image_74">74</a>, <a href="#image_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, ladder <a href="#image_80">80</a><a
+href="#image_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, overcast <a href="#image_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point crois&eacute; <a href=
+"#image_71">71</a>, <a href="#image_72">72</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point de minute <a href=
+"#image_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, point de plume <a href=
+"#image_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, satin raised <a href="#image_76">76</a>,
+<a href="#image_77">77</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, scallop <a href="#image_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, shaded button-hole <a href=
+"#image_88">88</a>, <a href="#image_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stitch, slanting overcast <a href=
+"#image_69">69</a></li>
+
+<li>INSTRUCTIONS IN GUIPURE D'ART, <a href="#page_503">p.503</a>.
+
+<p>INSTRUCTIONS IN TATTING.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li>Joining the work, <a href="#page_v">p.v</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Pin, tatting, <a href="#page_ii">p.ii</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Shuttles, tatting, <a href="#page_i">p.i</a>, <a href=
+"#page_iii">p.iii</a>.</li>
+
+<li>The way to hold the hands, <a href="#page_iii">p.iii</a></li>
+
+<li>The way to make a loop in tatting, <a href=
+"#page_iv">p.iv</a></li>
+
+<li>The way to make a purl, <a href="#page_v">p.v</a></li>
+
+<li>The way to make a stitch in tatting, <a href=
+"#page_iv">p.iv</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>JEWEL-CASE cover, guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_567">567</a></li>
+
+<li>Jewel-case covered in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_566">566</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>KEY-BAG, embroidered, <a href="#image_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Key-bag, embroidered, <a href="#image_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Knee-cap, knitted, <a href="#image_322">322</a></li>
+
+<li>Knife-basket, embroidered, <a href="#image_159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Knife-basket, embroidered, <a href="#image_160">160</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted antimacassar, <a href="#image_318">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted baby's boot, <a href="#image_326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted bodice, <a href="#image_324">324</a>, <a href=
+"#image_325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted border, <a href="#image_321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted border for bed-quilt, <a href=
+"#image_327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted braces, <a href="#image_338">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted comforters, pattern for, <a href=
+"#image_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted counterpanes, pattern for, <a href=
+"#image_313">313</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted cover for sofa-cushion, <a href="#image_341">341</a>,
+<a href="#image_342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted curtains, patterns for, <a href=
+"#image_339">339</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted d'oyley, <a href="#image_337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted insertion, <a href="#image_340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted knee-cap, <a href="#image_322">322</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted neckerchief, <a href="#image_323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted pattern, <a href="#image_345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted pattern, with embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_332">332</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted purse, lady's, <a href="#image_317">317</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted quilt, <a href="#image_328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted shawl, <a href="#image_346">346 to 348</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted sleeping sock, <a href="#image_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted sock for a child, <a href="#image_312">312</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted table-cover, <a href="#image_333">333</a>, <a href=
+"#image_334">334</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitted veil, <a href="#image_330">330</a>, <a href=
+"#image_331">331</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting cotton, table of sizes of, <a href=
+"#page_368">p.368</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting gauge, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting, looped, <a href="#image_335">335</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting, materials required for, <a href=
+"#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting needles, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>KNITTING ON, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting, rosette for antimacassar in, <a href=
+"#image_319">319</a>
+
+<p>KNITTING STITCHES.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Brioche stitch, <a href=
+"#image_301">301</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Casting off, <a href="#image_293">295</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Casting on, <a href="#image_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Decreasing, <a href="#image_293">293</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Increasing, <a href="#image_292">292</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Knitting on, <a href="#image_289">289</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Knotted stitch, <a href=
+"#image_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Looped knitting, <a href=
+"#image_335">335</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Moss borders, <a href="#image_299">300</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Peacock's tail pattern, <a href=
+"#image_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Picking up stitches, <a href=
+"#image_293">296</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plain knitting, <a href=
+"#image_290">290</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purling, <a href="#image_291">291</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Round knitting, <a href=
+"#image_293">294</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spiral stitch, <a href="#image_298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Knitting stitch for comforters, &amp;c., <a href=
+"#image_32">32</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>LACE, Bedford plaited (1851), <a href="#image_423">423</a></li>
+
+<li>(Lace, black), Buckingham point troll (1851), <a href=
+"#image_422">422</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace border for veils in guipure d'art <a href=
+"#image_537">537</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace border in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_522">522</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, crochet, <a href="#image_251">251</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, crochet, <a href="#image_261">261</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, Dalecarlian, <a href="#image_419">419</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, deep, in tatting, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace edging in tatting, <a href="#image_3">3</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace edging in tatting, <a href="#image_4">4</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, Honiton guipure, <a href="#image_424">424</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace insertion, embroidered, <a href="#image_207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace in tatting and crochet, <a href="#image_40">40</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, Mechlin (Queen Charlotte's), <a href=
+"#image_421">421</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, netted, <a href="#image_308">309</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, netted, open, <a href="#image_310">310</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, old Mechlin, <a href="#image_420">420</a></li>
+
+<li>LACE POINT.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Braid, placing the, <a href=
+"#image_442">442</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Braids, <a href="#image_426">426 to 431</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cords, <a href="#page_453">p. 453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Edgings, <a href="#image_474">474 to
+479</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">General directions for working, <a href=
+"#page_453">p. 453</a><a href="#page_454">p. 454</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Materials required, <a href="#page_451">p.
+451</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Modes of working dots and picots, <a href=
+"#image_470">470</a>, <a href="#image_473">473</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Scissors for, <a href="#image_425">425</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Threads, sizes of, <a href="#page_500">p.
+500</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, tatted, <a href="#image_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Lace, tatted, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Lady's embroidered purse, <a href="#image_157">157</a></li>
+
+<li>Lady's veil in net and tatting, <a href="#image_16">16</a>, <a
+href="#image_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Lappet or sash-end in. Venetian embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Linen collar embroidered, <a href="#image_193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Linen collar embroidered, <a href="#image_194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Linen tatting-bag, <a href="#image_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Linen bag for tatting cotton, <a href="#image_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Looped knitting, <a href="#image_335">335</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>MATERIALS required fur knitting, <a href=
+"#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Materials required for netting.<a href=
+"#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Mechlin lace (Queen Charlotte's), <a href=
+"#image_421">421</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion for a purse in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_198">198</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion for a purse in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion for trimming lingeries in tatting, <a href=
+"#image_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion in point Russe embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion in point Russe embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_211">211</a></li>
+
+<li>Medallion, tatting, <a href="#image_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Mignardise and tatting, <a href="#image_29">29</a>
+
+<p>MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN EMBROIDERY.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, coral stitch embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_353">353</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, floral embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_361">361</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, florid style of embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_356">356</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, forget-me-nots (embroidered), <a href=
+"#image_352">352</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, point d'or (embroidered), <a href=
+"#image_357">357</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, raised satin stitch embroidery, <a
+href="#image_358c">359</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, satin stitch (embroidered), <a href=
+"#image_351">351</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, scalloped, in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_355">355</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, small, in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_354">354</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, star, capitals, in embroidery, <a
+href="#image_349">349</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, star, small, in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_350">350</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, white, embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_358">358</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Initials in embroidery, <a href="#image_366">366
+to 417</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Monograms in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_366">366 to 417</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Names in embroidery, <a href="#image_362">362 to
+418</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sampler in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_358c">360</a></li>
+
+<li>Muslin cravat, embroidered, <a href="#image_153">153</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Neckerchief, knitted, <a href="#image_323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Needle and mesh for netting, <a href="#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Needles, knitting, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted fichu, <a href="#image_315">315</a>, <a href=
+"#image_316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted lace, <a href="#image_308">309</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted nightcaps, <a href="#image_343">343</a>, <a href=
+"#image_344">344</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted open lace, <a href="#image_310">310</a></li>
+
+<li>Netted shell border, <a href="#image_311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Netting, <a href="#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Netting, <a href="#image_303">303</a>
+
+<p>NETTING STITCHES.</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Diamond, <a href="#image_305">306</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">English, <a href="#image_305">308</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Bound, <a href="#image_305">305</a>, <a href=
+"#image_305">307</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Square, <a href="#image_303">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Netting, materials required for, <a href=
+"#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Netting needle and mesh, <a href="#image_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Nightcaps, netted, <a href="#image_343">343</a>, <a href=
+"#image_344">344</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Old Mechlin lace, <a href="#image_420">420</a></li>
+
+<li>ON KNITTING, <a href="#image_287">287</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Parasol-Cover in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_568">568</a></li>
+
+<li>Patterns for arm-chair crochet borders, <a href=
+"#image_255">255</a>, <a href="#image_256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for a couvrette in appliqu&eacute;, <a href=
+"#image_213">213 to 215</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for cravats, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for cravats, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Patterns, embroidery, for what-not (full size), <a href=
+"#image_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for cravat ends, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_133">133</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for cravat ends, &amp;c., in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), <a href=
+"#image_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered braces (full size), <a href=
+"#image_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered letter-case, <a href=
+"#image_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered needlebook, <a href=
+"#image_166">166</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for embroidered needlebook, <a href=
+"#image_167">167</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for knitted comforters, <a href=
+"#image_336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for knitted counterpanes, <a href=
+"#image_313">313</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern for trimming lingeries in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_143">143</a>, <a href="#image_143">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Patterns for veil in tatting, <a href="#image_18">18</a>, <a
+href="#image_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Pattern, knitted, <a href="#image_345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>PATTERNS, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, <a href="#image_501">502</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, description of, <a href=
+"#image_500">500 to 502</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Bars, d'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento, <a href=
+"#image_494">494</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Borders, <a href="#image_482">482</a>, <a href=
+"#image_483">483</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Collars, <a href="#image_493">493</a> <a href=
+"#image_496">496</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cravat end, <a href="#image_487">487</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Design for point lace collar, lappets, &amp;c.,
+<a href="#image_490">490</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Dress trimming, <a href=
+"#image_492">492</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Edgings, <a href="#image_488">488</a>, <a href=
+"#image_489">489</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Handkerchief border, <a href=
+"#image_485">485</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Insertion (Limoges), <a href=
+"#image_484">484</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Lappet, <a href="#image_490">490</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Lappet, <a href="#image_497">497</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Letter <em>A</em> in point lace, <a href=
+"#image_500">500</a>, <a href="#image_501">501</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Medallion, <a href="#image_481">481</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Oval for cravats, <a href=
+"#image_491">491</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Star, <a href="#image_480">480</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Toilet cushion centre, <a href=
+"#image_486">486</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels, close English, <a href=
+"#image_495">495</a></li>
+
+<li>Penwiper in embroidery, <a href="#image_186">186</a>, <a href=
+"#image_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>POINT LACE</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Braid, placing the, <a href=
+"#image_442">442</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Braids, <a href="#image_426">426 to 431</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cords, <a href="#page_453">p. 453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Edgings, <a href="#image_474">474 to
+479</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">General directions for working, <a href=
+"#image_453">453</a>, <a href="#image_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Materials required, <a href="#page_451">p.
+451</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Modes of working dots or picots, <a href=
+"#image_470">470</a>, <a href="#image_473">473</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Scissors for, <a href="#image_425">425</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Threads, sizes of, <a href="#page_500">p.
+500</a></li>
+
+<li>POINT LACE BARS</li>
+
+<li class="indent">D'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href="#image_463">463</a>
+Point d'Angleterre, <a href="#image_467">467</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, edged, <a href=
+"#image_468">468</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, dotted, <a href=
+"#image_469">469</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raleigh, <a href="#image_471">471</a>, <a href=
+"#image_472">472</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, <a href="#image_461">461</a>, <a href=
+"#image_462">462</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, dotted, <a href=
+"#image_469">469</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Venetian, plain, <a href="#image_464">464</a>,
+<a href="#image_465">465</a>, <a href="#image_466">466</a></li>
+
+<li>POINT LACE EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Antwerp, <a href="#image_479">479</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, <a href=
+"#image_477">477</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point do Bruxelles, <a href=
+"#image_474">474</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, <a href=
+"#image_478">478</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, <a href=
+"#image_476">476</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, <a href="#image_475">475</a></li>
+
+<li>POINT LACE PATTERNS</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, <a href="#image_501">502</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Alphabet, description of, <a href=
+"#image_500">500</a>, <a href="#image_501">502</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Bars, d'Alen&ccedil;on and Sorrento, <a href=
+"#image_494">494</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Borders, <a href="#image_482">482</a>, <a href=
+"#image_483">483</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Collars, <a href="#image_493">493</a>, <a href=
+"#image_496">496</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cravat end, <a href="#image_487">487</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Design for point Lice collar, lappets, &amp;c.,
+<a href="#image_490">490</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Dress trimming, <a href=
+"#image_492">492</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Edgings, <a href="#image_488">488</a>, <a href=
+"#image_489">489</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Handkerchief border, <a href=
+"#image_485">485</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Insertion (Limoges), <a href=
+"#image_484">484</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Lappet, <a href="#image_490">490</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Lappet, <a href="#image_497">497</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Letter <em>A</em> in point lace, <a href=
+"#image_500">500</a>, <a href="#image_501">501</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Medallion, <a href="#image_481">481</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Oval for cravats, <a href=
+"#image_491">491</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Star, <a href="#image_480">480</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Toilet cushion centre, <a href=
+"#image_486">486</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels, close English, <a href=
+"#image_495">495</a> POINT LACE STITCHES</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Brussels lace, <a href="#image_433">433</a>, <a
+href="#image_434">434</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Escalier lace, <a href="#image_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Mechlin lace, <a href="#image_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, <a href=
+"#image_444">444</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, enlarged, <a href=
+"#image_445">445</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Anvers, <a href=
+"#image_498">498</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_442">442</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_443">443</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point Braban&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_449">449</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Bruxelles, <a href=
+"#image_433">433</a>, <a href="#image_434">434</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Cordova, <a href=
+"#image_447">447</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, <a href=
+"#image_437">437</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne; close, <a href=
+"#image_438">438</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d' Espagne, treble, <a href=
+"#image_439">439</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de fillet, <a href=
+"#image_450">450</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de fillet and point reprise, <a href=
+"#image_451">451</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Grecque, <a href="#image_440">440</a>,
+<a href="#image_499">499</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de reprise, <a href=
+"#image_448">448</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de tulle, <a href=
+"#image_452">452</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point Turque, <a href="#image_446">446</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Valenciennes, <a href=
+"#image_441">441</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, <a href="#image_435">435</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, petit, <a href=
+"#image_436">436</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spanish point, <a href="#image_455">455</a>
+
+<p>POINT LACE WHEELS AND ROSETTES</p>
+</li>
+
+<li class="indent">English, plain, <a href=
+"#image_458">458</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">English, raised, <a href=
+"#image_459">459</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Mechlin, <a href="#image_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Rosette for centres, <a href=
+"#image_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, <a href="#image_456">456</a>, <a href=
+"#image_456">457</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels and rosettes, <a href=
+"#image_456">456</a>, <a href="#image_456">457</a></li>
+
+<li>Point Russe stitch for embroidered slipper, <a href=
+"#image_209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Purse, crochet sovereign, <a href="#image_246">246</a></li>
+
+<li>Purse in crochet over rings, <a href="#image_248">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Parse in tatting and beads, <a href="#image_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Purse, knitted, <a href="#image_317">317</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Quarter-square in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_530">530</a></li>
+
+<li>Quilt, knitted, <a href="#image_328">328</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Rose-leaf in embroidery, <a href="#image_171">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosettes, crochet, <a href="#image_280">280</a>, <a href=
+"#image_281">281</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosettes, embroidery and tatting, <a href="#image_48">48</a>,
+<a href="#image_61">61</a>, <a href="#image_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette for antimacassar in knitting, <a href=
+"#image_319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosettes in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_529">529</a>, <a
+href="#image_562">526</a>, <a href="#image_563">563</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting, <a href="#image_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting, <a href="#image_34">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting, <a href="#image_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting, <a href="#image_45">45</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting and embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting and embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Rosette in tatting and embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Round netting, <a href="#image_305">305</a>, <a href=
+"#image_305">307</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>SANDWICH-CASE in embroidery, <a href="#image_154">154</a></li>
+
+<li>Scent-sachet in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_569">569</a></li>
+
+<li>Shawl, knitted, <a href="#image_346">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Shell border, netted, <a href="#image_311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Sleeping sock, knitted, <a href="#image_314">314</a></li>
+
+<li>Slipper, embroidered on Java canvas, <a href=
+"#image_208">208</a></li>
+
+<li>Sock, knitted, for a child, <a href="#image_312">312</a></li>
+
+<li>Sofa-cushion, knitted cover for, <a href="#image_341">341</a>,
+<a href="#image_342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares for antimacassar in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_550">550</a>, <a href="#image_551">551</a></li>
+
+<li>Square for d'oyley in guipure d art, <a href=
+"#image_523">523</a></li>
+
+<li>Square, guipure d'art, <a href="#image_531">531</a></li>
+
+<li>Square, guipure d'art, <a href="#image_532">532</a></li>
+
+<li>Square, guipure d'art, <a href="#image_556">556</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares, guipure d'art, <a href="#image_570">570</a>, <a href=
+"#image_576">576</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_533">533 to
+536</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_538">538</a>, <a
+href="#image_538a">538a</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_554">554</a>, <a
+href="#image_555">555</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares in guipure d'art for dresses, <a href=
+"#image_546">546</a>, <a href="#image_547">547</a></li>
+
+<li>Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), <a href=
+"#image_540">540</a></li>
+
+<li>Square in reticella work (guipure d'art), enlarged, <a href=
+"#image_541">541</a></li>
+
+<li>Square in tatting for pincushion or couvrette, <a href=
+"#image_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Square netting, <a href="#image_303">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Squares, small, in guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_527">527</a></li>
+
+<li>Star, crochet, <a href="#image_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Stars in crochet, <a href="#image_247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Stars in embroidery, <a href="#image_137">137</a>, <a href=
+"#image_143">143</a>, <a href="#image_143">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Stars in embroidery, <a href="#image_180">180</a>, <a href=
+"#image_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Star in tatting, <a href="#image_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, CROCHET.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cross stitch, <a href="#image_224">224</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Cross treble stitch, <a href=
+"#image_229">229</a>, <a href="#image_230">230</a>, <a href=
+"#image_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Double long treble stitch, <a href=
+"#image_228">228</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Double stitch, <a href="#image_220">220</a>, <a
+href="#image_221">221</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long double stitch, <a href=
+"#image_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Long treble stitch, <a href=
+"#image_227">227</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch, <a href="#image_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch, <a href="#image_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purl stitch, <a href="#image_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised treble stitch, <a href=
+"#image_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised ribbed stitch, <a href=
+"#image_222">222</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Raised slanting stitch, <a href=
+"#image_223">223</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Slip stitch, <a href="#image_219">219</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Treble stitch, <a href="#image_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, GUIPURE D'ART.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Grounding, <a href="#image_533">533 to
+536</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Bruxelles, <a href=
+"#image_509">509</a>, <a href="#image_510">510</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'esprit, <a href=
+"#image_504">504</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de feston, <a href=
+"#image_506">506</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de reprise, <a href="#image_507">507</a>,
+<a href="#image_508">508</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de toile, <a href=
+"#image_505">505</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Stars, <a href="#image_516">516 to 520</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels, <a href="#image_511">511 to 515</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, KNITTING.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Brioche stitch, <a href=
+"#image_301">301</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Casting off, <a href="#image_293">295</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Casting on, <a href="#image_288">288</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Decreasing, <a href="#image_293">293</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Increasing, <a href="#image_292">292</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Knitting on, <a href="#image_289">289</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Knotted stitch, <a href=
+"#image_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Looped knitting, <a href=
+"#image_335">335</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Moss borders, <a href="#image_299">300</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Peacock-tail pattern, <a href=
+"#image_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Picking up stitches, <a href=
+"#image_293">296</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Plain, <a href="#image_290">290</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Purling, <a href="#image_291">291</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Round knitting, <a href=
+"#image_293">294</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spiral stitch, <a href="#image_298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, NETTING.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Diamond, <a href="#image_305">306</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">English, <a href="#image_308">308</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Round, <a href="#image_305">305</a>, <a href=
+"#image_305">307</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Square, <a href="#image_303">304</a></li>
+
+<li>STITCHES, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Brussels lace, <a href="#image_433">433</a>, <a
+href="#image_434">434</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Escalier lace, <a href="#image_454">454</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Mechlin lace, <a href="#image_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_442">442</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Alen&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_443">443</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, <a href=
+"#image_444">444</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Angleterre, enlarged,</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Anvers, <a href=
+"#image_498">498</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point Braban&ccedil;on, <a href=
+"#image_449">449</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Bruxelles, <a href=
+"#image_433">433</a>, <a href="#image_434">434</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Cordova, <a href=
+"#image_447">447</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, <a href=
+"#image_437">437</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, close, <a href=
+"#image_438">438</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point d'Espagne, treble, <a href=
+"#image_439">439</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de fillet, <a href=
+"#image_450">450</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de fillet and point reprise, <a href=
+"#image_451">451</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Grecque, <a href="#image_440">440</a>,
+<a href="#image_499">499</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de reprise, <a href=
+"#image_448">448</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de tulle, <a href=
+"#image_452">452</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point Turque, <a href="#image_446">446</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Valenciennes, <a href=
+"#image_441">441</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, <a href="#image_435">435</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Point de Venise, petit, <a href="#image_436">436</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Spanish point, <a href="#image_455">355</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>TABLE-COVER, knitted, <a href="#image_333">333</a>, <a href=
+"#image_334">334</a></li>
+
+<li>Table-napkin ring in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Table of sizes of knitting cotton, <a href="#page_363">p.
+363</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and beads, purse in, <a href="#image_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, border in, <a href="#image_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, border in, <a href="#image_052">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, insertion in, <a href=
+"#image_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, insertion in, <a href=
+"#image_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and crochet, lace in, <a href="#image_40">40</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and darned netting, collar in, <a href=
+"#image_28">28</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and darned netting, cravat-end in, <a href=
+"#image_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, <a href=
+"#image_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, <a href=
+"#image_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and embroidery, rosette in, <a href=
+"#image_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and lace stitch, insertion in, <a href=
+"#image_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and mignardise, <a href="#image_29">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and muslin, cravat in, <a href="#image_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting and net, lady's veil in, <a href="#image_16">16</a>, <a
+href="#image_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, antimacassar in, <a href="#image_65">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting-bag, linen, <a href="#image_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border, <a href="#image_47">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border for cap in. <a href="#image_6">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border in crochet and, <a href="#image_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border in crochet and, <a href="#image_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border in, with crochet edging, <a href=
+"#image_5">5</a>, <a href="#image_6">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border in lace stitch and, <a href=
+"#image_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, border, with beads, <a href="#image_13">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cap-crown in, <a href="#image_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cap in, <a href="#image_38">38</a>, <a href=
+"#image_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, circle for collars, cuffs, &amp;c., in, <a href=
+"#image_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, circle in, <a href="#image_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, circle in, <a href="#image_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, circle in, <a href="#image_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, collar in, <a href="#image_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, collar in, <a href="#image_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, collar, pine pattern in, <a href="#image_1">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting-cotton, <a href="#page_82">p. 82</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting-cotton, linen bag for, <a href="#image_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, couvrette, centre of a, <a href=
+"#image_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cravat-end in, <a href="#image_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cravat-end in, <a href="#image_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, oval cravat-end in, <a href="#image_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, cravat in, <a href="#image_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, deep border in crochet and, <a href=
+"#image_052">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, deep lace in, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond in, <a href="#image_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond in. <a href="#image_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond in, <a href="#image_053">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond in, <a href="#image_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, diamond, for collars, &amp;c., <a href=
+"#image_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion, <a href="#image_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion in, for trimming lingeries, <a href=
+"#image_11">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, insertion worked in, <a href="#image_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>TATTING INSTRUCTIONS.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">Joining the work, <a href="#page_v">p.
+v</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Pin, tatting, <a href="#page_ii">p. ii</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Shuttles, tatting, <a href="#page_i">p. i</a>,
+<a href="#page_iii">p.iii</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">The way to hold the hands, <a href=
+"#page_iii">p. iii</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">The way to make aloop in tatting, <a href=
+"#page_iv">p. iv</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">The way to make a purl, <a href="#page_v">p.
+v</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">The way to make a stitch in tatting, <a href=
+"#page_iv">p. iv</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, lace, <a href="#image_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, lace, <a href="#image_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, lace edging in, <a href="#image_3">3</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, lace edging in, <a href="#image_4">4</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, <a href=
+"#image_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, linen collar trimmed with, <a href=
+"#image_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, medallion for trimming lingeries in, <a href=
+"#image_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, oval cravat-end in, <a href="#image_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, patterns for veils in, <a href="#image_18">18</a>, <a
+href="#image_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, rosette in, <a href="#image_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, rosette in, <a href="#image_34">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, rosette in, <a href="#image_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, rosette in, <a href="#image_45">45</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, square in, for pincushion or couvrette, <a href=
+"#image_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, star in, <a href="#image_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, trimming for collar in, <a href=
+"#image_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, trimming for collar in, <a href=
+"#image_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, wide insertion in, <a href="#image_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, wide insertion in, <a href="#image_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, wide insertion in, <a href="#image_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Tatting, with beads, border in, <a href=
+"#image_13">13</a>,</li>
+
+<li>Tobacco-pouch in crochet work, <a href="#image_278">278</a>, <a
+href="#image_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, <a href="#image_163">163</a></li>
+
+<li>Tobacco-pouch in embroidery, <a href="#image_164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Toilet-cushion cover in white embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_171">171</a>, <a href="#image_171">172</a>, <a href=
+"#image_171">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Travelling-bag in embroidery, <a href="#image_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Trimming, crochet, with embroidered flowers worked in applique
+and velvet ribbon, <a href="#image_282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Trimming for a lady's chemise, in crochet, <a href=
+"#image_286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>Trimming in embroidery for bodices, <a href=
+"#image_170">170</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>VEIL, knitted, <a href="#image_330">330</a>, <a href=
+"#image_331">331</a></li>
+
+<li>Veil, lady's, in net and tatting, <a href="#image_16">16</a>,
+<a href="#image_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Veils, patterns for, in tatting, <a href=
+"#image_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Venetian border in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_206">206</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>WASTE-PAPER basket in embroidery, <a href=
+"#image_191">191</a></li>
+
+<li>What-not, embroidered in the shape of a hammock, <a href=
+"#image_195">195</a>, <a href="#image_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>WHEELS AND ROSETTES, POINT LACE.</li>
+
+<li class="indent">English plain, <a href="#image_458">458</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">English raised, <a href=
+"#image_459">459</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Mechlin, <a href="#image_453">453</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Rosette for centres, <a href=
+"#image_460">460</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Sorrento, <a href="#image_456">456</a>, <a href=
+"#image_456">458</a></li>
+
+<li class="indent">Wheels and rosettes, <a href=
+"#image_456">456</a>, <a href="#image_456">457</a></li>
+
+<li>Wing of bird in embroidery, <a href="#image_171">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Work-bag in embroidery, <a href="#image_200">200</a></li>
+
+<li>Work-basket covered with guipure d'art, <a href=
+"#image_545">545</a></li>
+
+<li>Work-basket in straw and silk crochet work, <a href=
+"#image_272">272</a>, <a href="#image_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Work-case in guipure d'art, <a href="#image_571">571</a>, <a
+href="#image_572">572</a></li>
+
+<li>Wreath in embroidery for centre of pin-cushion or toilet-mat,
+<a href="#image_148">148</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Beeton's Book of Needlework, by Isabella Beeton
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author	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-15 04:46:09 -0700
committer	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-15 04:46:09 -0700
commit	a1362e441111b94787b4a74a480e98afa8155c92 (patch)
tree	b8b36dd10a90dce93f81d692e3762164a3e986dd /15147-h