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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14366 ***
+
+ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW
+
+AND
+
+NOTES ON ARGENTINE LIFE.
+
+
+
+With Photographs and Diagrams.
+
+
+EDITED BY
+CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.
+
+
+LONDON:
+WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO.,
+CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, E.C
+1910.
+
+
+PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO., CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, LONDON,
+E.C
+
+
+DEDICATED To _all_ THE SHAREHOLDERS OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY,
+LIMITED, _who take a real interest in the Company_.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+In May last I was asked to read, towards the end of the year, a paper on
+Argentina, before the Royal Society of Arts. The task of compiling that
+paper was one of absorbing interest to me; and though I fully realise
+how inadequately I have dealt with so interesting a subject, I venture
+to think that the facts and figures which the paper contains may be of
+interest to some, at any rate, of the Shareholders of the Santa Fé Land
+Company. It is upon this supposition that it is published.
+
+Whilst I was obtaining the latest information for the paper (which was
+read before the Royal Society of Arts on November 30th, 1910), several
+members of the staff of the Santa Fé Land Company aided me by writing
+some useful and interesting notes on subjects connected with Argentina,
+and also giving various experiences which they had undergone whilst
+resident there. I am indebted to the writers for many hints on life in
+Argentina, and as I think that others will find the reading of the notes
+as engaging as I did, they are now reproduced just as I received them,
+and incorporated with my own paper in a book of which they form by no
+means the least interesting part.
+
+The final portion of the book--Leaves from a journal entitled "The
+Tacuru"--is written in a lighter vein. It describes a trip through some
+of the Northern lands of the Santa Fé Land Company, and it is included
+because, although frankly humorous, it contains much really useful
+information and many capital illustrations, I should, however, mention
+that this journal was written by members of the expedition, and was
+originally intended solely for their own private edification and
+amusement; therefore all the happier phases of the trip are noted; but I
+can assure my English readers that the trip, well though it was planned,
+was not all luxury.
+
+To the many who have helped me in this work I tender my most sincere
+thanks.
+
+CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.
+
+     LAWFORD PLACE,
+        MANNINGTREE, ESSEX,
+            _December, 1910_.
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                   PAGE
+
+ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW                1
+
+HISTORY OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY, LIMITED        33
+
+THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA                       45
+
+REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE   51
+
+SOME EXPERIENCE OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS              57
+
+THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE                         69
+
+CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE                            75
+
+HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE                        79
+
+SUNDAYS IN CAMP                                      87
+
+THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA                     91
+
+POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY                               97
+
+A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO                       107
+
+WORK IN THE WOODS                                   119
+
+CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS                          125
+
+MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN                                131
+
+DUST AND OTHER STORMS                               141
+
+LOCUSTS                                             147
+
+CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC            155
+
+ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901                   161
+
+PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES                185
+
+JUST MY LUCK!                                       193
+
+"THE TACURU"                                        199
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS.
+
+
+                                               FACING PAGE
+
+CATTLE TRAIN ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY,
+BRINGING CATTLE TO BARRANCOSA                           39
+
+LOADING WHEAT AT ROSARIO FROM THE "BARRANCA"            40
+
+SAN CRISTOBAL ESTANCIA HOUSE                            41
+
+WATERING-PLACE AT BARRANCOSA                            42
+
+WOOD ON THE COMPANY'S OWN LINE READY FOR LOADING        43
+
+LOADING TIMBER AT WAYSIDE STATION                       44
+
+WHEAT READY FOR LOADING AT STATION ON CENTRAL
+ARGENTINE RAILWAY                                       48
+
+THE MAKER OF LAND VALUES                                50
+
+TENNIS PARTY AT VERA                                    73
+
+CARNIVAL AT VERA                                        77
+
+"A DAY OF REAL ENJOYMENT"                               90
+
+SQUARE QUEBRACHO LOGS WORKED BY THE AXEMAN, SHOWING
+RESIN OOZING THEREFROM                                 134
+
+LOADING WHEAT AT THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES              187
+
+HORSES AWAITING INSPECTION                             209
+
+STACKING ALFALFA                                       210
+
+ALFALFA ELEVATOR AT WORK                               211
+
+THE GREEN FIELDS OF ALFALFA                            212
+
+HERD OF CATTLE                                         215
+
+EXPANSE OF ALFALFA                                     221
+
+DISC-PLOUGH AT WORK                                    222
+
+ROADMAKER AND RAILROAD BUILDER                         223
+
+PLOUGHING VIRGIN CAMP                                  226
+
+HART-PARR ENGINE, DRAWING ROADMAKER                    228
+
+CATTLE LEAVING DIP                                     233
+
+CROSSING THE SALADO                                    240
+
+THE EFFECT OF A LONG DROUGHT                           241
+
+REFINED CAMPS                                          242
+
+"RICH BLACK ALLUVIAL SOIL"                             251
+
+WATER KNEE-DEEP                                        265
+
+QUEBRACHO COLORADO TREE                                266
+
+SLEEPERS AWAITING TRANSPORT AT VERA                    267
+
+TANNIN EXTRACT FACTORY                                 268
+
+SOME OF THE HORSES                                     271
+
+"AWFUL FLOOD"                                          276
+
+ON THE WAY TO OLMOS                                    277
+
+
+
+LIST OF DIAGRAMS.
+
+                                               FACING PAGE
+
+IMMIGRATION RETURNS                                      2
+
+AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION                                14
+
+CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES                             15
+
+VALUE IN £ STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF
+ARGENTINA, 1900-09                                      22
+
+
+
+
+ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW.
+
+
+Argentina, which does not profess to be a manufacturing country,
+exported in 1909 material grown on her own lands to the value of
+£79,000,000, and imported goods to the extent of £60,000,000. This fact
+arrests our attention, and forces us to recognise that there is a trade
+balance of nearly 20 millions sterling in her favour, and to realise the
+saving power of the country.
+
+It is not mere curiosity which prompts us to ask: "Are these £79,000,000
+worth of exports of any value to us? Do we consume any of them? Do we
+manufacture any of them? And do we send any of this same stuff back
+again after it has been dealt with by our British artisans?" It would be
+difficult to follow definitely any one article, but upon broad lines the
+questions are simple and can be easily answered. Amongst the
+agricultural exports we find wheat, oats, maize, linseed, and flour. The
+value placed upon these in 1908 amounted to £48,000,000, and England
+pays for and consumes nearly 42 per cent. of these exports. Other goods,
+such as frozen beef, chilled beef, mutton, pork, wool, and articles
+which may be justly grouped as the results of the cattle and sheep
+industry, amounted to no less a figure than £23,000,000. All these
+exports represent foodstuffs or other necessities of life, and are
+consumed by those nations which do not produce enough from their own
+soil to keep their teeming populations. Another export which is worthy
+of particular mention comes from the forests, viz., quebracho, which, in
+the form of logs and extract, was exported in 1908 to the value of
+£1,200,000. The value of material of all sorts sent from England to
+Argentina in 1908 was £16,938,872 (this figure includes such things as
+manufactured woollen goods, leather goods, oils, and paints), therefore
+it is clear that we have, and must continue to take, a practical and
+financial interest in the welfare and prosperity of Argentina.
+
+New countries cannot get on without men willing and ready to exploit
+Nature's gifts, and, naturally, we look to the immigration returns when
+considering Argentina's progress. To give each year's return for the
+last 50 years would be wearisome, but, taking the average figures for
+ten-year periods from 1860 to 1909, we have the following interesting
+table. (The figures represent the balance of those left in the country
+after allowing for emigration):--
+
+                                  Yearly Average.
+From 1860 to 1869 (inclusive)   ...  15,044
+  "  1870  " 1879   "           ...  29,462
+  "  1880  " 1889   "           ...  84,586
+  "  1890  " 1899   "           ...  43,618
+  "  1900  " 1909   "           ... 100,998
+
+Sixty-five per cent. of the immigrants are agricultural labourers, who
+soon find work in the country, and again add their quota to the
+increasing quantity and value of materials to be exported. Facing this
+page is a diagram of the Immigration Returns from 1857 to 1909.
+
+Nature has been lavish in her gifts to Argentina, and man has taken
+great advantage of these gifts. My desire now is to show what has been
+done in the way of developing agriculture in this richly-endowed country
+during the last fifty years. One name which should never be forgotten in
+Argentina is that of William Wheelwright, whose entrance into active
+life in Buenos Aires was not particularly dignified; in 1826 he was
+shipwrecked at the mouth of the River Plate, and struggled on
+barefooted, hatless and starving to the small town of Quilmes.
+
+[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF IMMIGRATION RETURNS.
+
+NOTE:--IN THE YEARS 1888, 1889 & 1890 THE ARGENTINE GOVERNMENT ASSISTED
+PASSAGES.]
+
+Mr. Wheelwright was an earnest and far-seeing man, and his knowledge of
+railways in the United States helped him to realise their great
+possibilities in Argentina; but, strange to say, upon his return to his
+native land he could not impress any of those men who afterwards became
+such great "Railway Kings" in the U.S.A. Failing to obtain capital for
+Argentine railway development in his own country, Wheelwright came to
+England, and interested Thomas Brassey, whose name was then a household
+word amongst railway pioneers. These two men associated themselves with
+Messrs. Ogilvie & Wythes, forming themselves into the firm of Brassey,
+Ogilvie, Wythes & Wheelwright, whose first work was the building of a
+railway 17,480 kilometres long between Buenos Aires and Quilmes in 1863;
+afterwards they built the line from Rosario to Cordova, which is
+embodied to-day in the Central Argentine Railway. Other railways were
+projected, and this policy of progress and extension of the steel road
+still holds good in Argentina.
+
+The year 1857 saw the first railway built, from Buenos Ayres to Flores,
+5,879 kilometres long; in 1870 there were 457 miles of railroad; in 1880
+the railways had increased their mileage to 1,572; in 1890 Argentina
+possessed 5,895 miles of railway, and in 1900 there were 10,352 miles.
+
+The rapid increase in railway mileage during the last nine years is as
+follows:--
+
+In 1901 there were 10,565 miles of railway.
+ " 1902  "     "   10,868   "    "    "
+ " 1903  "     "   11,500   "    "    "
+ " 1904  "     "   12,140   "    "    "
+ " 1905  "     "   12,370   "    "    "
+ " 1906  "     "   12,850   "    "    "
+ " 1907  "     "   13,829   "    "    "
+ " 1908  "     "   14,825   "    "    "
+ " 1909  "     "   15,937[A]"    "    "
+
+12,000 of which are owned by English companies, representing a capital
+investment of £170,000,000.
+
+In other words, for the last forty years Argentina has built railways
+at the rate of over a mile a day, and in 1907, 1908, and 1909 her
+average rate per day was nearly three miles. This means that owing to
+the extension of railways during this last year alone, over a million
+more acres of land could have been given up to the plough if suitable
+for the cultivation of corn.
+
+When William Wheelwright first visited Argentina it was little more than
+an unknown land, whose inhabitants had no ambition, and no desire to
+acquire wealth--except at the expense of broken heads. There was a
+standard of wealth, but it lay in the number of cattle owned; land was
+of little value, save for feeding cattle, and therefore counted for
+naught, but cattle could be boiled down for tallow; bones and hides were
+also marketable commodities; the man, therefore, who possessed cattle
+possessed wealth.
+
+The opening out of the country by railways soon changed the aspect of
+affairs. The man who possessed cattle was no longer considered the rich
+man; it was he who owned leagues of land upon which wheat could be grown
+who became the potentially rich man; he, by cutting up his land and
+renting it to the immigrants, who were beginning to flock in in an
+endless stream to the country, found that riches were being accumulated
+for him without much exertion on his part. He took a risk inasmuch as he
+received payment in kind only. Therefore, when the immigrants did well,
+so did he, and as many thousands of immigrants have become rich, it
+follows that the land proprietors have become immensely so. It was the
+railways which created this possibility, and endowed the country by
+rendering it practicable to grow corn where cattle only existed before,
+but many Argentines to-day forget what they owe to the railway pioneers;
+it is the railways, and the railways only, which render the splendid and
+yearly increasing exports possible.
+
+In 1858 cattle formed 25 per cent. of the total wealth of Argentina, but
+in 1885 cattle only represented 18 per cent. of the total wealth,
+railways having made it possible during those thirty years to utilise
+lands for other purposes than cattle-feeding. Let it be clearly
+understood, the total value of cattle had not decreased; far from that,
+the cattle had increased in value during the above period to the extent
+of £48,000,000, and to-day cattle, sheep, horses, mules, pigs, goats and
+asses represent a value of nearly £130,000,000. The following table
+shows how great the improvement has been in Argentine animals:--
+
+                                             Per Head.
+Cattle in 1885 were valued at an average of  $13[B]
+   "      1908        "      "      "         32
+Sheep  in 1885        "      "      "          2
+   "      1908        "      "      "          4
+Horses in 1885        "      "      "         11
+          1908        "      "      "         25
+
+Notwithstanding these increased valuations per head, and the larger
+number of animals in the country, the value created by man's labour far
+outweighs the increased value of mere breeding animals.
+
+Next to the railways the improvements in shipping have helped the
+development of Argentina; the shipping trade of Buenos Aires has
+increased at the rate of one million tons per annum for the past few
+years, and the entries into the port form an interesting and instructive
+table:
+
+The following statement gives the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires from 1880 to 1909, and will more clearly show the
+increase and advance made in the last thirty years. These figures
+include both steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well as foreign
+trade:--
+
+                Tons.
+1880  ...    644,750
+1881  ...    827,072
+1882  ...    995,597
+1883  ...  1,207,321
+1884  ...  1,782,382
+1885  ...  2,200,779
+1886  ...  2,408,323
+1887  ...  3,369,057
+1888  ...  3,396,212
+1889  ...  3,804,037
+1890  ...  4,507,096
+1891  ...  4,546,729
+1892  ...  5,475,942
+1893  ...  6,177,818
+1894  ...  6,686,123
+1895  ...  6,894,834
+1896  ...  6,115,547
+1897  ...  7,365,547
+1898  ...  8,051,045
+1899  ...  8,741,934
+1900  ...  8,047,010
+1901  ...  8,661,300
+1902  ...  8,902,605
+1903  ... 10,269,298
+1904  ... 10,424,615
+1905  ... 11,467,954
+1906  ... 12,448,219
+1907  ... 13,335,733
+1908  ... 15,465,417
+1909  ... 16,993,973
+
+In 1897, out of the total number of steamers that entered Buenos Aires,
+viz., 901, with a tonnage of 2,342,391; 519, with a tonnage of
+1,327,571, were British. Taking the year 1909 we find that 2,008
+steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the port of Buenos Aires from
+foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542, and 1,978 steamers and 129
+sailing-vessels left the port for foreign shores with a tonnage of
+5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead with 2,242 steamers and 37
+sailing-vessels, or say 53-1/2 per cent. of the total. Germany comes
+next with 456 steamers and 2 sailing-vessels, or say 10-3/4 per cent, of
+the total. Italy with 307 steamers and 67 sailing-vessels is next, and
+then France with 264 steamers. The total number of steamers that entered
+and left the port from local and foreign ports is 13,485, with a tonnage
+of 14,481,526, and 20,264 sailing-vessels with 2,512,447 tons, which
+make up the amount of 16,993,973 tons, as shown above.
+
+In the year 1884 the experiment of freezing beef, killed in Buenos
+Aires, and shipping it to Europe was first tried. That was successful,
+but an immense improvement was made when the process of chilling became
+the common means by which meat could be exported. The frozen beef trade
+in Argentina has had a wonderful development; it commenced in 1884, and
+the export of chilled meat has progressed steadily at the rate of 25,000
+beeves yearly, until, in 1908, it reached the enormous quantity of
+573,946 beeves, or 180,000 tons. Frozen mutton has remained
+comparatively steady, and has only increased by 38,000 tons in
+twenty-two years, or from 2,000,000 sheep frozen in 1886 to 3,297,667 in
+1908, whilst "jerked beef," which was mostly sent to Cuba and Brazil,
+has fallen from 50,000 tons per annum to 6,651 tons. The value of frozen
+and preserved meats exported in 1908 was £5,233,948.
+
+The value of live-stock in Argentina in 1908 was made up as follows:--
+
+Cattle  ... ... ... £82,000,000
+Sheep   ... ... ...  25,000,000
+Horses  ... ... ...  18,000,000
+Mules   ... ... ...   2,000,000
+Pigs    ... ... ...   1,368,000
+Goats and Asses ...   1,000,000
+
+A few years ago it was common on an estancia feeding 50,000 or 60,000
+cattle to find the household using canned Swiss milk. To-day 425,000
+litres of milk are brought into the city of Buenos Aires each day for
+consumption, and no less than two tons of butter, one ton of cream, and
+three tons of cheese are used there daily. Argentina also exports
+butter. This trade has sprung up entirely within the last fourteen
+years, and in 1908 she exported 3,549 tons of butter, the value of which
+was £283,973.
+
+Until 1876 Argentina imported wheat for home consumption; in that year,
+when for many years past agricultural labourers had been arriving at an
+average of 25,000 per annum, she began to export wheat with a modest
+shipment of 5,000 tons. Thirty years later the export had mounted up to
+2,247,988 tons, and in 1908 the wheat exported amounted to 3,636,293
+tons, and was valued at £25,768,520. Agricultural colonies had sprung up
+everywhere, and cattle became of second-rate importance; to-day the
+value of the exports of corn, which term includes wheat, barley, maize,
+oats, etc., is more than double that of cattle and cattle products. It
+is interesting to follow the evolution wrought by labour, intelligence,
+and capital in the prairie lands of Argentina. First, let us note the
+developments on those wonderful tracts of splendid prairie lands lying
+between the River Plate and the Andes: fifty years ago these lands were
+of little account, and only a few cattle were to be found roaming about
+them, but upon the advance of the railway they came under the plough,
+and, without much attention or care, produced wheat and maize. After a
+time improvements in the method of cultivation produced a better return,
+and to-day a great deal of attention is paid to the preparing of the
+land, and thought and care are given to the seed time, the growing, and
+the harvest. When it is found desirable to rest the land after crops of
+wheat and maize, etc., alfalfa is grown thereon. Alfalfa is one of the
+clover tribe, and has the peculiar property of attaching to itself those
+micro-organisms which are able to fix the nitrogen in the air and render
+it available for plant food. Every colonist knows the value of alfalfa
+for feeding his animals, but it is not every colonist who knows why this
+plant occupies such a high place amongst feeding stuffs. Alfalfa is
+easily grown, very strong when established, and, provided its roots can
+get to water, will go on growing for years. The _raison d'être_ for
+growing alfalfa is for the feeding of cattle and preparing them for
+market, and for this purpose a league of alfalfa (6,177 acres metric
+measurement) will carry on an average 3,500 head. When grown for dry
+fodder it produces three or four crops per annum and a fair yield is
+from 6 to 8 tons per acre of dry alfalfa for each year. A ton of such
+hay is worth about $20 to $30, and after deducting expenses there is a
+clear return of about $14 per acre.
+
+The figures supplied by one large company are interesting; they show
+that, on an average, cattle, when placed upon alfalfa lands, improve in
+value at the rate of $2.00 per head per month, so it is easy to place a
+value on its feeding properties. Thus, we will take a camp under alfalfa
+capable of carrying 10,000 head of cattle all the year round, where as
+the fattened animals are sold off an equal number is bought to replace
+them. Such a camp would bring in a clear profit of $200,000 per annum,
+and the property should be worth £175,000 sterling. An animal that has
+been kept all its life on rough camp, and, when too old for breeding, is
+placed for the first time on alfalfa lands, fattens extremely quickly,
+and the meat is tender and in quality compares favourably with any other
+beef. No business in Argentina of the same importance has shown such
+good returns as cattle breeding, and these results have been chiefly
+brought about by the introduction of alfalfa, and a knowledge of the
+life history of alfalfa is of the greatest importance to the cattle
+farmer. All cereal crops take from the soil mineral matter and nitrogen.
+Therefore, after continuous cropping the land becomes exhausted and
+generally poorer; experience has taught us that rotation of crops is a
+necessity to alleviate the strain on the soil, and such an axiom has
+this become that in many cases English landlords insist that their
+leases shall contain a clause binding the tenants to grow certain stated
+crops in rotation.
+
+This system is known in England as the four-course shift. Knowledge
+gained by successive generations of observant farmers has given us the
+key to what Nature had hitherto kept to herself, and to-day we know why
+the plan adopted by our forefathers was right, and why the rotation of
+crops was, and is, a necessity. Men of science are devoting their lives
+to the systematic study of Nature's hidden secrets, and by means of
+Agricultural Colleges, as well as private individual research, these
+discoveries are being given to mankind, and long before the soils of
+Argentina show any serious loss of nitrogen from continuous cropping,
+science will probably have established means of applying in a practical
+manner those methods already known of propagating the
+nitrogen-collecting bacteria which thrive on alfalfa, clover, peas, soya
+beans, and other leguminous plants. Almost every country is now devoting
+time, money, and energy to agricultural research work. In 1908 the
+Agricultural College at Ontario prepared no less than 474 packages of
+Legume Bacteria, and in 309 cases beneficial results followed from the
+application thereof to the soil; in 165 cases no improvements in the
+crops were noticed, this may, however, have been due to the want of
+knowledge of how to manipulate the bacteria, or to lack of experience in
+noting effects scientifically, but in any case the experiment must be
+considered successful when the results obtained were satisfactory in no
+less than 65 per cent. of the trials. No greater factor exists than the
+microscope in opening up and hunting out the secrets concealed in the
+very soil we are standing on.
+
+If soils were composed of nothing but pure silica sand, nothing would
+ever grow; but in Nature we find that soils contain all sorts of mineral
+matter, and chief amongst these is lime.
+
+Alfalfa thrives on land which contains lime, and gives but poor results
+where this ingredient is deficient. The explanation is simple. There is
+a community of interest between the very low microscopic animal life,
+known as bacteria, and plant life generally. In every ounce of soil
+there are millions of these living germs which have their allotted work
+to do, and they thrive best in soils containing lime.
+
+If one digs up with great care a root of alfalfa (it need not be an old
+plant, the youngest plant will show the same peculiarity), and care is
+taken in exposing the root (perhaps the best method is the washing away
+of the surrounding earth by water), some small nodules attached to the
+fine, hair-like roots are easily distinguished by the naked eye, and
+these nodules are the home of a teeming, microscopical, industrious
+population, who perform their allotted work with the silent, persistent
+energy so often displayed in Nature. Men of science have been able to
+identify at least three classes of these bacteria, and to ascertain the
+work accomplished by each. The reason for their existence would seem to
+be that one class is able to convert the nitrogen in the air into
+ammonia, whilst others work it into nitrite, and the third class so
+manipulate it as to form a nitrate which is capable of being used for
+plant food.
+
+Now, although one ton of alfalfa removes from the soil 50 lb. of
+nitrogen, yet that crop leaves the soil richer in nitrogen, because the
+alfalfa has encouraged the multiplication of those factories which
+convert some of the thousands of tons of nitrogen floating above the
+earth into substance suitable for food for plant life. As a dry fodder
+for cattle three tons of alfalfa contains as much nutrition as two tons
+of wheat.
+
+The cost of growing alfalfa greatly depends upon the situation of the
+land to be dealt with; also upon whether labour is plentiful or not;
+but, in order to give some idea of the advantage of growing this cattle
+food, we will imagine the intrinsic value of the undeveloped land to be
+£4,000, upon which, under existing conditions, it would be possible to
+keep 1,000 head of animals, whereas if this same land were under alfalfa
+3,000 to 3,500 animals would be fattened thereon, and the land would
+have increased in value to £20,000 or £30,000.
+
+Now, if the undeveloped land is to be improved, it becomes necessary
+either to work it yourself, with your own men, in which case you must
+provide ploughs, horses, bullocks, etc., or to carry out the plan
+usually adopted, that of letting the land to colonists who have had some
+experience in this class of work. Usually a colonist will undertake to
+cultivate from 500 to 600 acres, and agrees to pay to the landowner
+anything from 10 per cent. to 30 per cent. of his crops according to the
+distance of the land from the railway. The colonist brings his
+agricultural tackle along with him, and establishes his house (usually a
+most primitive affair), digs his well, and then proceeds to plough. In
+this work the whole family joins; the father leads the way, followed by
+the eldest child, and all the others in rotation, with the wife bringing
+up the rear; she keeps a maternal eye upon the little mite, who with
+great gusto and terrific yells manages somehow to cling to the plough
+and to do his or her share with the rest. Is it to be wondered at that
+work progresses fast under these conditions? There is but one idea
+prevalent in the family, namely, that time and opportunity are with
+them.
+
+The first crop grown on newly-broken ground is usually maize; the second
+year's crop is linseed, and perhaps a third year's crop--probably
+wheat--is grown by the colonist before the land is handed back to the
+owner ready to be put down in alfalfa. The colonist's cultivation of the
+land will have effectually killed off the natural rough grasses which
+would otherwise grow up and choke the alfalfa. Sometimes the alfalfa is
+sown with the colonist's last crop, and in such cases the landowner
+finds the alfalfa seed, and during the sowing of this crop it is very
+advisable that either he or his agent should be in constant attendance,
+because the after results greatly depend upon the care with which the
+seeding has been done. When the colonist's contract is completed he
+moves on to another part, and the owner, who has year by year received a
+percentage of the crops, takes back his land. Considerable outlay has
+now to be made in fences, wells, and buildings; the more there are of
+these the better, the land will carry a larger head of cattle and the
+control of them is easy when the camp has been properly divided.
+
+The colonists are generally Italians. They are an industrious and kindly
+people, hardy and quiet, well content with their surroundings, careful
+and frugal in their living, and many thousands could go back to their
+own country with wealth which has been acquired by constant and
+assiduous attention to the economies of life.
+
+It has often been said that an Englishman will starve where an Italian
+will thrive, and in some respects this is true; but it would be better
+expressed if it were stated that an Italian can adapt himself to
+circumstances better than an Englishman. At the same time, I doubt if an
+Italian would come off best were the two placed on a desert island where
+instantaneous action, grit, and endurance were called for.
+
+Many things are said of an Englishman, and none fits his character
+better than that which gives him the privilege of "grumbling," and this
+characteristic becomes more marked when he is able to grumble with one
+of his own kith and kin. I have heard Argentines praise Englishmen, who,
+they say, manage their estancias far and away beyond all others, but at
+the same time they have told me that they would never allow two
+Englishmen on their place at once.
+
+It has been said that many of the immigrants do not intend to settle in
+the country. Probably this idea has gained ground on account of the
+large numbers of the labouring population, who are attracted to
+Argentina by the high wages ruling during the harvest time, and then
+find it pays them to go home and secure the European harvest, but
+generally these men come out again to stay. They have acquired a
+knowledge of the country, and often enough have also acquired an
+interest in some land, and they return, bringing their families, to
+adopt Argentina as their home--for a period at least.
+
+A glance at the statistics prepared by the authorities in Buenos Aires
+shows that during the last fifty-two years 4,250,980 persons entered as
+immigrants, and out of this number only 1,690,783 returned, leaving in
+the country 2,560,197 individuals, or an average of 50,000 workers per
+annum. These figures have become even more marked of recent years.
+Taking the last five years, the country has received on an average
+249,000 immigrants per annum; of these, 103,000 went back. In other
+words, 727,670 have made their homes within the borders of Argentina
+during the past five years, and of these at least 500,000 were
+agriculturists.
+
+It is not to be wondered at, then, that the exports, chiefly made up of
+agricultural produce, have shown extraordinary progress. Facing this
+page is a diagram showing the agricultural exportation from 1900 to
+1908.
+
+[Illustration: AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION INCLUDING WHEAT, LINSEED, OATS,
+MAIZE, ETC.]
+
+[Illustration: CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES. (1 HECTARE = 2.471 ACRES)]
+
+Nothing can be more eloquent than the figures shown in this diagram.
+This remarkable progress, almost steady in its upward march, is not in
+one direction only. Argentina is an ideal country for agriculturists,
+and in every branch of that industry progress has been made. Greater
+care is being taken to-day in working up the by-products of the cattle
+business. More varied crops are being grown, and vegetable by-products
+are being economically looked after. The forests of Argentina are also
+being worked for the benefit of mankind. The Quebracho Colorado tree
+forms a very important item of export. It is sent out of the country
+either in the form of logs, of which no less than 254,571 tons were
+exported in 1908, or in the form of an extract for tanning purposes;
+48,162 tons of this extract were made and exported in 1908, and a small
+quantity of the wood was exported in the shape of sawdust. The total
+value of Quebracho Colorado exported in various forms in that year was,
+as already stated, £1,200,000. This means that the Quebracho forests are
+being depleted at the rate of half a million tons per annum for export
+purposes alone, in addition to the enormous quantities used for
+sleepers, etc., in the country.
+
+The area in acres under cultivation for the year 1908 was 46,174,250, an
+increase of 265 per cent, on the land under cultivation in the year
+1895.
+
+The diagram facing this page shows the area in hectares cultivated from
+1897 to 1908:--
+
+WHEAT--The area under cultivation for wheat shows an increase of 89 per
+cent, in ten years from--
+
+8,000,000 acres in cultivation in 1898, to
+15,157,750  "   "       "      "  1908
+
+LINSEED--shows an increase of 361 per cent, from--
+
+831,972 acres in cultivation in 1898, to
+3,835,750 "   "       "      "  1908
+
+MAIZE--increased by 250 per cent., and other crops, including Oats, 300
+per cent. in the same period.
+
+The United Kingdom purchased from Argentina and retained for its own use
+(in round figures) during the year 1908--
+
+WHEAT       to the value of £13,000,000
+MAIZE          "       "      5,600,000
+FROZEN MEAT    "       "      9,300,000
+                            -----------
+          Making a total of £27,900,000
+                            -----------
+
+Indeed, we buy from Argentina nearly 25 per cent. of our total food
+purchased abroad, and she supplies nearly 29 per cent. of our corn and
+grain requirements. These figures again clearly demonstrate that we have
+a vital interest in the well-being of our friends across the sea.
+
+In every direction Argentina has progressed, and judging from the past
+we may look with confidence to the future; the total area of the
+Republic is 776,064,000 acres, and certainly it is within the bounds of
+reasonable forecast to consider that 100,000,000 acres of this land will
+be, when opened up by railways, and other facilities, available for
+corn-growing. To-day only one-fifth of this available area is being
+cultivated, and another 43,000,000 acres are being utilised for feeding
+purposes; thus, only 63,000,000 out of 776,000,000 acres are being
+occupied. The chief reason why more is not utilised is because there is
+not sufficient labour available.
+
+  Argentina                   has   5    inhabitants per square mile.
+  Russia                       "   18         "             "
+  Canada, Newfoundland, etc.   "    1-1/2     "             "
+  Australia                    "    1-1/3     "             "
+  U. Kingdom                   "  364         "             "
+  Belgium                      "  625         "             "
+  Germany                      "  290         "             "
+
+Not only is there an enormous tract of land lying dormant, but the
+productive power of land now under cultivation may be vastly increased
+if farmers will devote their attention to improving the conditions of
+cultivation. 11.3 bushels of wheat per acre is not high-class farming,
+yet this is the average production for Argentina. Manitoba in 1908
+produced 13-1/2 bushels per acre, Saskatchewan, 17 bushels. In the
+fourteenth century England only produced 10 bushels per acre, but we
+have improved this yield to 30 bushels, while Roumania has increased her
+yield from 15 bushels per acre in 1890, to 23 bushels in 1908. France
+has increased her yield from 17 bushels in 1884, to 20 bushels in 1908.
+Germany has increased her yield per acre from 20 bushels in 1899, to 30
+bushels in 1908. So that we may not only look forward to a greater area
+being placed under cultivation, but we may reasonably expect heavier
+crops, if land proprietors will bring science to bear on their work of
+development. Indeed, with land rising in price, with an increasing
+influx of immigrants, and with more intelligent cultivation of the soil,
+the land must of necessity give a far larger yield than it has done
+heretofore.
+
+The following tables, taken from the Board of Trade returns, show from
+whence England draws some of her supplies. They also show how
+prominently Argentina figures as a food producer. The first table
+includes corn and meat; the second gives corn alone, and the third meat
+alone:--
+
+FOOD IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.
+
+CORN (including wheat, barley, oats, rye,
+  buckwheat, peas, beans, maize, wheatmeal,
+  flour, oatmeal, and offals)                 £71,103,487
+
+MEAT, fresh and frozen  (including animals
+for food)                                      48,704,613
+
+                                  Total      £119,808,100
+
+Of this--
+
+                                   £          Per Cent.
+    Argentina supplied         29,569,773 or   24.68
+    U.S.A. supplied            38,229,135 or   31.90
+    Russia supplied             7,394,607 or    6.18
+    Canada supplied            11,907,203 or    9.94
+    Australia (including
+     Tasmania) supplied         4,520,244 or    3.77
+    Other Colonies and Foreign
+     Countries supplied        28,187,138 or   23.53
+
+                             £119,808,100 or  100.00
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CORN IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.
+
+                   Argentina.  U.S.A.    Russia.    Canada.  Australia
+                                                            (including
+                                                            Tasmania).
+
+
+                       £          £         £          £         £
+Wheat     ... ... | 13,096,812 10,779,221 2,286,180  6,335,329 2,402,988
+                  |
+Barley    ... ... |     22,943    733,446 2,622,005    205,697     --
+                  |
+Oats      ... ... |  1,463,368      --    1,144,387      6,441     --
+                  |
+Rye       ... ... |      --       129,691    93,066     49,009     --
+                  |
+Buckwheat ... ... |      --         --        6,677      --        --
+                  |
+Peas      ... ... |      --        38,545    42,279    105,495     2,345
+                  |
+Beans (not fresh, |
+other than Haricot|
+Beans)   ... ...  |      --         --       15,094      --        --
+                  |
+Maize     ... ... |  5,603,463  2,023,576  1,107,858    44,822     --
+                  |
+Wheatmeal         |
+and Flour     ... |     50,597  5,407,119         80   809,479   119,440
+                  |
+Oatmeal and       |
+  Rolled Oats ... |      --       183,334      --      207,516     --
+                  |
+Farinaceous sub-  |
+  stances (except |
+  Starch, Farina, |
+  Dextrine, and   |
+  Potato Flour)   |      --        99,112      --       59,302     --
+                  |
+Bran and Pollard  |     11,932       --         --        --        --
+                  |
+Sharps and        |
+  Middlings       |     35,113       --         --        --        --
+                  |
+Maize Meal        |       --       129,543      --        --        --
+              ----+-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------
+                 £ 20,284,228 | 19,523,587 | 7,317,626 | 7,823,090 | 2,524,773
+              ----------------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------
+Percentage             28.53% |    27.46%  |  10.29%   | 11.00%    | 3.56%
+              ----------------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     Other
+ Colonies and
+    Foreign        Total.
+   Countries.
+
+      £              £
+ 13,630,183[C]   71,103,487
+
+---------------+-------------+
+ 13,630,183    | 71,103,487  |
+---------------+-------------+
+  19.16%       | = 100%      |
+---------------+-------------+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MEAT, including animals for food, and fresh, chilled, frozen and tinned,
+imported into and retained by the United Kingdom in 1908:
+
+                                    £        Per Cent.
+
+Argentina supplied              9,285,545 or   19.07
+U.S.A.       "                 18,705,548 "    38.41
+Russia       "                     76,981 "     0.16
+Canada       "                  4,084,113 "     8.38
+Australia (including Tasmania)
+          supplied              1,995,471 "     4.10
+Other Colonies and Foreign
+Countries supplied[D]          14,556,955 "    29.88
+
+                               48,704,613 "   100.00
+
+
+
+The lesson shown here is one worthy of attention. We see that Argentina
+supplies England with one-fourth of her imported food, and U.S.A.
+supplies nearly one-third. Therefore it behoves both England and
+Argentina to see that America does not so manipulate things that she
+acquires the control over our meat and food supplies.
+
+Argentine authorities should not only exercise the law sanctioned
+February 4th, 1907, concerning the inspection of factories, but they
+should enforce greater care in seeing that all Argentine saladeros and
+packing-houses are manipulated with intense care, and cleanliness should
+be insisted upon; it would be a bad day for Argentina should ever such
+an outcry be raised against her saladeros as that which a few years ago
+was directed against the North American packing houses and for a time
+ruined the canning industry of the United States, and yet we find
+American methods being introduced into Argentina without let or
+hindrance. If our soldiers and sailors are to be fed upon canned meats,
+let those who are responsible for purchasing the food, at least see that
+the food is prepared under healthy and sanitary conditions.
+
+The corn-growing industry of the Argentine Republic is an intensely
+interesting subject. Before railways and steamships brought the foreign
+producer into close competition with our own farmers, Argentina did not
+produce enough grain to supply her home consumption, and cattle were
+bred only for their hides, tallow and bones. In the course of time, when
+steamers superseded sailing-ships and the world's carrying capacity
+thus became enormously increased, Argentina saw her opportunity of
+becoming a keen competitor in the food market. Corn-growing became a
+highly remunerative business, although much still remains to be learned
+concerning the handling of wheat. Both in the States and Canada grain is
+handled in a cheaper and more expeditious manner than in Argentina. An
+enormous amount of grain is dealt with in the Wheat Exchange of
+Winnipeg, but a further big impetus will be given to this industry when
+the wheat-fields of Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba are connected
+with a deep-sea port on Hudson Bay; this will be an accomplished fact in
+1915, and as this route means a thousand miles less haulage by land, and
+eight hundred less by sea to the chief European ports than by any
+existing route, it is bound to become the popular one; the chief factor,
+however, in making it a useful wheat outlet is the established fact that
+Hudson Bay, although many miles north of Lake Superior, remains free
+from ice for a period of one month after Lake Superior is tightly frozen
+up.
+
+Argentina may look forward to keen competition with Canada and Siberia
+for many years to come; on the other hand, the U.S.A. will steadily show
+a smaller quantity of wheat available for exportation, and the following
+table throws some light upon the wheat position:--
+
+Argentina and Uruguay have increased
+  the area of their wheat-growing
+  land brought under the plough in
+  the last ten years by                      124 per cent.
+Canada in the last ten years by              120 per cent.
+Russia in the last ten years by               27 per cent.
+United States in the last ten years by        14 per cent.
+
+No country in the world has shown such wonderful capabilities for
+growing linseed as the Argentine, and her average production for the
+following five-year periods show this expansion:--
+
+Years.        Production in Tons.
+1894-1898           193,000
+1899-1903           382,000
+1904-1908           839,000
+
+In ten years she increased her production by 335 per cent. In the same
+period India increased her production by 3.8 per cent., and North
+America by 105 per cent., whilst Russia was unable to keep up her
+supply.
+
+The world's total linseed production for 1908 was made up as follows:--
+
+Argentina      produced 1,101,000 tons.
+North America  produced   694,000 tons.
+Russia         produced   470,000 tons.
+India          produced   360,000 tons.
+
+Here again we find Argentina leading. Moreover, she exported nearly the
+whole of her production, whilst North America, Russia, and India
+exported less than half a million tons between them.
+
+It is more than probable that by 1920 Argentina will be able to export,
+as the result of agricultural work, more than £100,000,000 worth of
+produce per annum. It is interesting to note that, as the present
+figures reveal, allowing for a population of 6,500,000 and an
+agricultural produce export of £48,335,432, each individual in Argentina
+has sent abroad, after producing enough from the land to keep himself,
+goods to the value of nearly £8.
+
+The diagram facing this page shows what has been accomplished by
+Argentina in the last ten years.
+
+[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF VALUE IN £ STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF
+ARGENTINA 1900-1909.]
+
+In actual money value the exportation of wheat, linseed, oats, maize,
+other grain, flour, bran, and middlings is, in round figures, as
+follows:--
+
+1900   £15,485,000
+1901    14,319,000
+1902    13,634,000
+1903    21,050,000
+1904    30,065,000
+1905    34,047,000
+1906    31,530,000
+1907    32,818,000
+1908    48,335,000
+1909    46,100,000
+
+CATTLE.
+
+The value derived from the cattle industry and its allied produce is of
+great importance to the Argentine Republic. The exports from this
+industry may be divided into four heads, namely:--
+
+LIVE ANIMALS;
+
+RAW PRODUCTS;
+
+MANUFACTURED OR PARTLY MANUFACTURED MATERIAL AND BY-PRODUCTS.
+
+Since the closing of English ports in 1901 to the importation of live
+cattle from Argentina, the trade in the export of live stock has fallen
+off considerably; the total value did not in 1908 amount to more than
+£568,966; Belgium took 65,224 sheep, Chili took 45,114 cattle and 14,394
+sheep, Bolivia took 3,383 head of cattle and 10,676 sheep, and 16,000
+asses and mules, while horses were imported into England, Africa,
+Portugal, Brazil, Uruguay, Chili, Bolivia, and Paraguay.
+
+Exports of raw products, which include frozen and chilled beef and
+mutton, hides, sheepskins, wool, and such things as horsehair, tallow,
+jerked beef, etc., represented a value of £19,549,231 in 1908.
+
+Manufactured or partly manufactured material, including prepared tallow,
+meat extracts, meat, butter, cheese, lard, dressed leather, etc.,
+represented £2,454,760, whilst the by-products, including bones, dried
+blood, guano, waste fats, etc., were valued at £430,734. Thus,
+Argentina's total export from the cattle industry (after supplying her
+own needs) was over £23,000,000.
+
+Argentina's live stock on hand when the last census was taken in May,
+1908, was as follows:--
+
+Cattle ... ... ... 29,116,625
+Sheep  ... ... ... 67,211,758
+Horses ... ... ...  7,531,376
+Mules, swine,
+goats, and asses    6,098,802
+
+representing in value £129,369,628.
+
+The favourite breed of cattle is the Shorthorn, and they comprise 84 per
+cent, of the classified breeding cows; the Herefords only figure out as
+6 per cent., but, undoubtedly, a more careful and complete
+classification will lead to modifications in these figures, for at the
+present time no less than five and a-half million cows are returned as
+Criollo cattle, in other words, unimproved stock.
+
+Not until the year 1885, when it became possible to send frozen meat to
+Europe, did estancieros pay serious attention to growing cattle for meat
+production, and now, with an ever-increasing quantity of land being
+placed under alfalfa, the Argentine Republic is fast becoming the
+leading factor in the production of meat to satisfy the world's
+consumption.
+
+Cattle on the outside fringe of occupied lands are still very coarse and
+rough, with a distinct strain of the Hereford about them; they are,
+however, a useful herd and most suitable for the districts they occupy,
+where they often have to undergo the hardships of shortage of pasture
+owing to drought, and little or no water, indeed, it is a marvel how
+these animals exist at times; and assuredly no refined breed of cattle
+could live where the Criollos not only manage to thrive, but generally
+to return a satisfactory result to their owners. The cattle on ranches
+which are nearer to the seaports, manufacturing centres, or railway
+stations show distinct improvements. Greater care is bestowed upon them,
+and the main consideration is never lost sight of--it is the ambition of
+every estanciero to have his cattle graded up so that they are looked
+upon as "freezers," which means that they are good enough to be
+purchased by one or other of the refrigerating companies, who take
+nothing but the best.
+
+In 1888 cattle running the northern camps (which then represented the
+extreme outlying posts) were only valued at $6 per head.
+
+In 1890 the value had risen to $10 per head.
+ " 1900   "        "     "      15     "
+ " 1908   "        "     "      28     "
+ " 1910   "        "     "      40     "
+
+The question of stock raising and the object to be obtained must rest
+with the owners: they must decide whether the land is to be utilised for
+fattening cattle or for breeding the high-class animals for which there
+is an ever-ready market. To show the enormous value of animals and the
+high standard to which agricultural lands can be brought, mention must
+be made of two estancias near Buenos Aires, viz., those belonging to
+Messrs. Cobo and Messrs. Bell, where splendid stock is always to be
+found. To give some idea of the high price paid for first-class pedigree
+animals, it may be mentioned that £3,800 was paid for a prize Durham
+bull which was sold to Argentina!
+
+At the cattle show at Buenos Aires held in July, 1910, Herefords for
+killing realized from £850 to £1,000 per animal! These latter high
+prices were, however, evidently paid by the agents of Cold Storage
+Companies for advertising purposes. One representative explained that
+the freezing Companies desired to encourage breeders, and that his
+Company paid the high prices mentioned above so as to let the breeders
+know that they would always be paid high prices for first-class cattle.
+
+When we consider the really important position which Argentina takes as
+a food producer, it appears incredible that the English nation (business
+men and the general public alike) is so extremely ignorant, as a rule,
+of prevailing conditions. I do not refer to those who have invested
+their money in the many channels known to the River Plate circle. But
+men holding high official positions speak of our commercial interests in
+Argentina as "something between a hundred and a hundred and fifty
+millions," and then in a whispered side-speech indicate the dangers of
+revolution.
+
+Often it is suggested that the chances of death from small-pox, yellow
+fever, and even from murder are a serious drawback to what might
+otherwise be a country possible to live in. It makes one very indignant
+to hear these statements from the lips of those who probably have never
+left their own country. Let me assure you they may be swept aside, and
+were it not for their frequent reiteration it would be unnecessary to
+say that there is not one grain of truth in these suggestions as applied
+to the state of things to-day.
+
+Nearly one-fifth of the population of Argentina is centred in and around
+Buenos Aires. It is a city of 1,200,000 inhabitants, many of whom are
+millionaires; but at the same time there exists much poverty within its
+precincts--poverty caused in no small degree by the viciousness of the
+rich, but to a far greater extent by the rooted objection of certain
+classes to go out to the camps where, during the harvest time at least,
+wages are high and labour is anxiously awaited.
+
+When we compare the health of this city of Buenos Aires with that of
+other large cities, we can see what has been done in the way of
+improvements in the last few years. A glance at the following tables
+will give some idea of what has been accomplished. The natural increase
+of the population of Buenos Aires between 1898 and 1907 was 19.1 per
+1,000, and no other city equals this.
+
+The increase in London          was  8.8 per  1,000.
+       "        Berlin           "   8.5      "
+       "        New York         "   5.7      "
+       "        St. Petersburg   "   4.6      "
+
+
+The birth-rate of Buenos Aires for 1908 was 34.3 per 1,000.
+      "       "   London           "        25.7
+      "       "   Berlin           "        23.3
+      "       "   New York         "        28.5
+      "       "   St. Petersburg   "        27.5
+
+Both these tables are, however, probably affected by the great number of
+immigrants finding their way to Argentina, many of whom remain in Buenos
+Aires.
+
+The health of the City may be well gauged by the death-rate for the year
+1907.
+
+Buenos Aires stands well with 15.2 per 1,000 inhabitants.
+London has a death-rate of    15.1       "       "
+Berlin       "       "        14.8       "       "
+New York     "       "        18.6       "       "
+St. Petersburg       "        25.7       "       "
+
+(Undoubtedly the high rate shown by the last-named city is greatly due
+to the foul condition of the Neva.)
+
+
+To appreciate thoroughly the position which Buenos Aires now holds, and
+the strides which have been made in regard to the sanitation of the
+City, we have but to look at the past. Between the years 1889 and 1898
+the death-rate per thousand was as high as 22.9 per 1,000; from 1899 to
+1908 it was only 16.6, and now the record stands at 15.2 per 1,000.
+
+The authorities are justly proud of what has been done, and will not
+diminish their efforts so long as there is work to do and problems to
+solve.
+
+I should like to state once more the fact that the United Kingdom
+depends upon Argentina for nearly one-fourth of her food supply
+purchased abroad. I want to impress upon your mind the seriousness of
+the position, for this proportion of one-fourth will be largely
+increased in the near future, for reasons already stated.
+
+The question has often been asked, "Is it safe to buy land in
+Argentina?" But the drift of this query too often is merely
+self-interest; in other words, it really means "Can I successfully
+speculate in land?" Clearly the matter is solely a personal one, no
+other consideration is thought of, so one is tempted to give an evasive
+answer. Should the questioner, however, be a young fellow, with God's
+gift of health and plenty of truth and grit in him, who wants not only
+to acquire the land, but to work it, then, indeed, there is but one
+answer, and that is in the affirmative--let him go, and let him ever
+remember that he is an Englishman and that England is judged by the
+conduct of her sons: but do not let him make the great mistake a
+newcomer so often falls into, which is, that because he is an Englishman
+all other nationalities must be inferior, and that by some sort of
+divine right he has been created lord of all. Let him realise that those
+whom he meets in Argentina are as noble and pure as those he left at
+home. Argentina offers to-day a splendid opening for the best of
+England's sons, but she does not want the loafer nor the ne'er-do-well.
+Can it be wondered at that England's prestige is seriously injured when
+so many of the "wasters," and worse, are sent from the country? It is
+but natural that from these, who go to foreign countries, England is
+judged. To my mind we should send abroad men who are bound to succeed,
+men who never forget that from their behaviour the Mother Country will
+be appraised. Argentina will embrace and reward them, but she will spurn
+and despise the dissolute and drunken.
+
+The advice I would give to all those thinking of trying Argentina as a
+field for agricultural work is to remember that to be successful one
+must begin at the bottom, the harder the school the better will be the
+result: you cannot detect and correct the faults which militate against
+success unless you have been through the mill. Not long ago I sent a boy
+out to Argentina and painted the first two years of learning in the new
+country in rather lurid colours. I explained and dwelt on the
+hardships--indeed, I described it as "a dog's life." Within a year, the
+lad wrote home to his parents and mentioned all that I had told him, but
+finished up by saying, "There's plenty of 'life' about it, but not much
+'dog.'" The truth is that the boy had accepted things as they came along
+and had adapted himself to his surroundings, and, I predict, he will
+never regret having left his home, where opportunities were cramped by
+small surroundings, for the wider field of Argentina.
+
+A great many Englishmen resident in Argentina, whose sons are looking
+forward to finding their life's work in that country, send their boys
+home to England to be educated. Far be it from me to deprecate the
+training acquired by English public school life, but it might well be
+worth while to consider the other phase. The boy who has had his
+schooling in Argentina and goes through his training and passes into one
+of their Universities will have to his credit something which cannot be
+bought by money or influence by boys straight out from home. He will
+have been a fellow student, and worked shoulder to shoulder with men who
+will in due time occupy positions of power and influence, and it is just
+as well to weigh out these things before deciding where to educate your
+boy. A boy born in Argentina, whatever the nationality of his parents
+may be, is by Argentine law an Argentine subject, and should be brought
+up to appreciate that he is liable to be called upon to go through a
+military course: the Argentine boy, who has had just as gentle an
+upbringing as the English boy, is compelled to serve his time in the
+army if called upon, and generally the discipline engendered by this
+training has not only been good for him, but is a distinctly valuable
+asset to the country, and the English boy, as well as a boy of any other
+parentage born in the country, will be obliged to go through this
+military training if required.
+
+I venture to think that were England to adopt compulsory military
+service in some shape or form, we should hear a great deal less of the
+unemployed and "don't-want-work" demonstrations.
+
+To attempt to give a picture of Argentine life is impossible in the
+short time at my disposal. Imagine to yourself, if you can, a country of
+1,212,600 square miles whose borders extend from well within the Tropics
+to away down south to the everlasting snows, embracing all kinds of
+lands, from the very richest of soils to ice-capped and rocky peaks, and
+you must admit that to attempt to describe the various conditions of
+life therein is wellnigh impossible. Life is much what the surrounding
+conditions make it--on the extreme edge of cultivation it is distinctly
+rough, on the inner camps refinement steps in, and in the cities you
+will find just what society you wish. Amongst the cosmopolitan
+population of Buenos Aires there are many men and women of the highest
+culture and education.
+
+There are many Argentines, who stand out prominently from the throng of
+busy pleasure-seekers, who are devoting their lives to improving the
+surroundings of those less fortunate fellow-creatures who have fallen
+upon the thorny path, and whose portion is often the cup of bitterness.
+Indeed, I have ever found the Argentine desirous of helping those who
+seek advice and assistance; but he spurns the foreigner who degrades
+himself and his country by acts of folly which would not be permitted in
+his native land.
+
+Englishmen often fall into the great error of keeping themselves to
+themselves. Possibly this trait is engendered from birth and training by
+our insular position, but it is a great pity to carry it too far, for
+the Argentine people do appreciate the thoroughness of our countrymen,
+and are ready to welcome the right sort. We have taught the Argentines
+many of our national sports and games, and they have entered into them
+with such thoroughness that the teachers have often had to admit that
+the pupil has proved better than the master.
+
+Travelling has become an integral part of the education of the Argentine
+family to-day, and it is quite general to find young children speaking
+fluently four or five languages.
+
+I could wish that those who have Argentine friends would insist upon
+their seeing, when in this country, some of the Englishman's home
+surroundings, for hotel life, theatres, dinners, and music-halls are all
+very well in their way, but to see the real inwardness of English life
+you must follow the Englishman to his country home. My experience is
+that the Argentine will always refuse an invitation to your home at
+first, because of the trouble which he believes you will be put to, but
+don't take "no" for an answer; simply make him come, and he will thank
+you afterwards for his experience of English home life.
+
+Just a word or two, for fear I have left an impression that Argentina is
+the El Dorado which lies beyond the seas. There are such things as
+locusts, floods, droughts, and frosts in that country.
+
+The first of these--locusts--are indeed a plague which to-day it seems
+almost impossible to annihilate, for I have little faith in man's
+attempts effectually to stop or decrease this pestilence; on the other
+hand, Nature always seems to be on the alert to prevent an overthrow of
+the balance of things. Those who have spent their lives in the River
+Plate district have seen this appalling plague crushed by means which
+Nature, in her own good time, has thought fit to use.
+
+With regard to floods and droughts, these can, at least, be modified by
+men, and means are now being adopted to conserve the floods and render
+their waters available in time of drought.
+
+From frosts we seem powerless to defend ourselves, and it is only those
+whose work is in close touch with the growing and handling of crops who
+can fully appreciate the damage done by late frosts.
+
+No country is free from drawbacks of some sort or another, and these
+troubles which I have just mentioned will not prevent the forward march
+of progress in Argentina.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[A] These figures are approximate
+
+[B] The dollar referred to throughout this paper is the Argentine paper
+dollar, which since 1899 has had a fixed value, and is worth
+approximately 1s. 9d. Previous to that date its value fluctuated
+considerably.
+
+[C] A list of the other Colonies and Foreign Countries which largely
+contributed to this total will be found on the following page.
+
+[D] The other colonies and foreign countries which largely contributed
+to the totals mentioned are as follows:--
+
+DENMARK--Barley £22,708 Meat 5,988,573
+
+ROUMANIA--Corn, etc. £2,564,538 Meat nil.
+
+TURKEY (including CRETE)--Corn, etc £1,383,971 Meat nil.
+
+TURKEY, ASIATIC--Corn, etc. £1,344,322 Meat nil.
+
+CHILI--Corn, etc £1,099,660 Meat 10,682
+
+BRITISH INDIA--Corn, etc £2,226,668 Meat nil.
+
+NEW ZEALAND--Corn, etc £30,585 Meat 4,168,649
+
+
+
+
+HISTORY OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY, LIMITED.
+
+In the years 1881 and 1882, Messrs. C. de Murrieta & Co. acquired a
+block of land from the Government of the Province of Santa Fé, and in
+December, 1882, sold one undivided half-share thereof to Messrs. Kohn,
+Reinach & Co. Messrs. Murrieta & Co. and Messrs. Kohn, Reinach & Co.,
+having decided to develop the said lands, formed the Santa Fé Land
+Company, and the prospectus appeared in July, 1883.
+
+The area sold to the new Company was said to comprise about 650 Spanish
+leagues, or 4,336,150 English acres, and the price to be paid to the
+vendors was £1,050 per league.
+
+In order to provide a port of shipment on the Rio Parana the Company
+bought a further lot of 323 acres in the Colony of Romang.
+
+In addition to the original block of land, the Company has since bought
+the following areas:--
+
+The estancia of La Barrancosa, 10,801 hectareas, say      26,678
+
+The estancia of Santa Catalina, 4,049 hectareas, say      10,002
+
+A strip of land at Guaycuru on the eastern boundary
+of the Company's forest lands, 1,636 hectareas, say        4,041
+
+A piece of land at Venado Tuerto, 37 hectareas, say           91
+
+A piece of land at Arrufo, 100 hectareas, say                247
+
+A piece of land at Tostado, 50 hectareas, say                123
+
+                                                          41,182
+
+Since the beginning of the Company the total area of land sold has
+amounted to 709,549 acres (up to 30th June, 1910). It is calculated
+that the land comprised in the Bazan claim, to which reference is made
+later on, measures 582,914 acres. Upon this supposition the Company now
+owns 3,044,100 acres.
+
+The original price paid for the Company's lands worked out at about 3s.
+an acre.
+
+The original capital of the Company was £875,000, of which over £675,566
+was paid to the vendors, leaving a balance of £199,434 to meet the
+preliminary expenses and the initial cost of opening up the new
+properties. After some years it was found necessary to write off a
+portion of the capital, and accordingly, in 1897, the Company's lands
+were re-valued at approximately 2s. 9d. an acre.
+
+The present Directors of the Company are:--
+
+Mr. CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE (_Chairman_).
+Mr. IVOR BEVAN.
+Mr. GORDON H. BROWN.
+LORD HAWKE.
+Mr. LOUIS H. KIEK.
+Mr. T.E. PRESTON.
+Capt. The Hon. F.C. STANLEY.
+
+The London Office is at 779, Salisbury House, Finsbury Circus, London,
+E.C., and the Secretary of the Company is Mr. David Simpson. The Head
+Office in the Argentine is at 761, Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires, and
+the following are the principal officers of the Company in Argentina:--
+
+Mr. HUGH M. RATTRAY (_General Manager_).
+Mr. W.B. WHIGHAM (_Manager of the Cattle
+and Lands Department at Sun Cristobal_).
+Mr. R.N. LAND (_Manager at Santa Catalina_).
+Mr. T. SCOTT ROBSON (_Manager at La Barrancosa_).
+Mr. G.L.C. GITTINS (_Acting Manager of the Woods Department_).
+
+
+
+SHARE CAPITAL.
+
+The original shares of the Company were £10 each. It was decided in 1897
+to reduce them to £7 fully paid, which placed the capital at £612,500.
+Shortly afterwards each £7 share was converted into seven shares of £1
+each.
+
+In 1906 the shareholders authorised the creation of £200,000 of fresh
+capital, which was issued to them in two blocks of £154,000 in 1906 and
+£46,000 in 1907.
+
+Fresh capital was authorised in 1908, viz., £187,500, of which £161,608
+was issued in 1909, and further lots have since been issued, bringing
+the total amount of authorised capital to £1,000,000, and of issued
+capital at 30th June, 1910, to £982,347.
+
+An issue of £50,000 Six per Cent. Debentures was made in January, 1904;
+and the whole amount was redeemed on the 1st July, 1909.
+
+
+BAZAN LANDS.
+
+Part of the area sold to the Company consisted of a block of
+approximately 88 Spanish leagues, or 530,000 English acres, which became
+the subject of negotiations and lawsuits between this Company, the
+Provincial Government of Santa Fé, and other parties, lasting for more
+than twenty-five years. The area in question lay to the West of the Rio
+Salado, and, at the time when this Company was formed, was supposed to
+be included in the Province of Santa Fé. Soon afterwards the Province of
+Santiago del Estero put forward a claim to the lands on the ground that
+the boundaries of that Province extended eastwards to the Rio Salado,
+and it therefore disputed the right of the Province of Santa Fé to sell
+the lands to Messrs. Murrieta & Co. in 1882.
+
+By an Agreement with the Government of the Province of Santa Fé, the
+Santa Fé Land Company took proceedings in the Supreme Courts of the
+Province to establish its rights to the land in dispute on the
+understanding that if the Company failed to establish its claim, the
+Government of the Province of Santa Fé would indemnify it for its loss.
+In the result the Company was evicted from the lands, and entered into
+negotiations with the Government of the Province of Santa Fé for
+indemnification. These negotiations went on for some years without
+coming to any practical conclusion, and at last the Company commenced a
+lawsuit against the Province and won it. After further delays and
+negotiations the Government agreed to issue bonds in respect of the
+Company's claim, and, in July, 1909, the Company agreed to accept
+$3,212,000 paper Bonds of the Province, carrying interest at 3-1/2 per
+cent., with an amortisation of 1/2 per cent., the coupons being
+available for payment of land tax. The Government further undertook to
+ratify the original titles of the Company, and to make a survey at the
+joint expense of both parties, for the purpose of ascertaining the exact
+area comprised in the original transfer. Any lands found to be in excess
+were to be paid for by the Company to the Government at the rate of
+$13.50, paper, per hectarea (about 8s. an acre). The price of such
+excess lands was to be recouped by the Government from the Bonds issued
+to the Company, and the Government retained $712,000 Bonds for this
+purpose, pending the result of the survey.
+
+[Illustration: _Cattle Train on Central Argentine Railway, bringing
+Cattle to Barrancosa._]
+
+
+RAILWAY COMMUNICATION.
+
+At the time of the formation of the Company, the nearest railway was
+that belonging to the Central Argentine Railway, and the nearest
+railway station was Rosario, but some years later, the lines now
+belonging to the French Railway Company of the Province of Santa Fé were
+laid between Santa Fé and San Cristobal. Subsequently the Central Norte
+Railway, which stretches northwards from San Cristobal to Tucuman, was
+built by the National Government, and in 1907, the National Government
+built a line from Santa Fé to San Cristobal _via_ San Justo.
+
+The Company have built a railway from a point north of Vera running into
+their forests, and extend it from time to time as the development of the
+wood industry demands. They further own a line from Margarita to La
+Gallareta, where the extract factory of the Compania Tanin de Santa Fé
+is situated. The Company propose to build a railway from San Cristobal
+to penetrate to their northern properties, and have applied to the
+Argentine National Government for a railway concession in connection
+therewith.
+
+
+ADMINISTRATION.
+
+After various changes of centre the administration offices of the
+Company were, in the year 1902, divided between San Cristobal for the
+cattle and lands department, and Vera for the woods department, but, in
+1906, the woods department was placed under the supervision of the
+General Manager of the Company, who lived at San Cristobal, and, in
+1908, the central offices were moved from San Cristobal to Buenos Aires.
+Through the latter office all the work of the Company in Argentina
+passes on to the London office, the managers at San Cristobal, Vera,
+Santa Catalina, and La Barrancosa, having to concern themselves only
+with the technical and administrative work carried on under them
+respectively.
+
+
+COMPANY'S BUSINESS.
+
+The Company's business has been mainly divided into three branches,
+viz.: (1) land sales and rentals; (2) cattle industry, and (3) timber
+trade.
+
+The first two branches are conducted from San Cristobal, situated at the
+S.W. corner of the Company's original lands, and for many years the site
+of the central offices of the Company in Argentina, whilst the timber
+trade is conducted from Vera.
+
+
+SAN CRISTOBAL DEPARTMENT.
+
+A township was started at San Cristobal in 1884, and now numbers 4,500
+persons.
+
+The Administration House and other buildings for the use of the General
+Manager and Staff of the Cattle and Lands Department were erected about
+three miles from the town, and the whole now forms a large and handsome
+establishment, equipped with the most modern requisites for carrying on
+the work of the estancia.
+
+The cattle lands have been divided up into sections, which are managed
+by officials of the Company, under the control of the administration at
+San Cristobal. The office there and the offices on the various sections
+have recently been connected up by telephone. These sections are
+Polvareda, Michelot, Los Moyes, and Lucero (which lie to the North and
+North-East of San Cristobal), and Las Chuñas, which forms the
+North-Western corner of the Company's lands.
+
+[Illustration: _Loading Wheat at Rosario from the "Barranca."_]
+
+[Illustration: _San Cristobal Estancia House._]
+
+
+SANTA CATALINA AND LA BARRANCOSA.
+
+In January, 1897, the Company rented the estancia of Santa Catalina,
+which is situated about five miles from Los Cardos on the Central
+Argentine Railway and about 150 miles South of San Cristobal. Here the
+stock which was brought down from San Cristobal was fattened before
+passing on to the markets. At the same time the Company continued the
+sowing of alfalfa which had been begun by the proprietor, and ultimately
+decided to buy the camp and use it as an establishment for breeding fine
+stock. The terms of the purchase were that the price should be paid by
+way of an annuity, payable during the joint lifetime of the owner and
+his wife. In 1909 this method of payment was compounded and satisfied in
+full by an allotment of shares of the Company.
+
+The practice has been that the male calves born on this estancia should
+be sent North to the general herds kept at San Cristobal and the
+adjoining sections, and that the progeny of these animals should in turn
+be sold as fat cattle.
+
+To facilitate this business the Company found it necessary to acquire a
+camp specially adapted for fattening purposes in the Southern part of
+the Province, so that they might be brought into closer touch with the
+markets of Rosario and Buenos Aires. They accordingly bought the
+estancia La Barrancosa in 1906, and have been constantly increasing the
+area there under alfalfa, equipping it with a full complement of wells
+and fencing. This estancia lies half way between the towns of San Isabel
+and Venado Tuerto, from the latter of which it is distant about sixteen
+miles. But, during the year 1909, a new broad-gauge railway line was
+opened, leading from Rosario to Bahia Blanca. It passes right through
+the estancia, and by means of a station just outside the boundary the
+Company have fresh means of despatching their animals to Rosario.
+
+
+VERA DEPARTMENT.
+
+The headquarters of the Woods Department is situated about eight miles
+N.W. of the town of Vera, which stands at kilometre 250 north of the
+City of Santa Fé on the line of the French Railway Company leading from
+Santa Fé to Resistencia. Sawmills and offices were built, which involved
+the presence of a considerable number of work-people, for whom houses
+had to be provided. Consequently, a small village has grown up at the
+place.
+
+A branch railway was begun in 1905, at a point 13 kilometres north of
+Vera town, on the French Railway, to penetrate westwards into the
+Company's forests, and has been extended to a point called Olmos, lying
+30 miles away. Along the line two or three hamlets have sprung up, where
+people connected with the wood industry reside, as well as the Company's
+officials who control the timber in the neighbourhood.
+
+In 1904 the Company entered into an agreement with Messrs. Albert and
+Charles Harteneck, Frederick and Charles Portalis, and Hermann Renner,
+to bring out a Company to work a factory for the manufacture of tannin
+extract from the wood of the Quebracho Colorado tree, and this factory
+was ultimately built within the Company's properties at a place called
+La Gallareta, which is situated 17 kilometres north-west of the Station
+of Margarita on the French Railway line. The Santa Fé Land Company have
+also built a branch line from Margarita to this tannin factory.
+
+[Illustration: _Watering-Place at Barrancosa._]
+
+[Illustration: _Wood on the Company's Own Line ready for Loading._]
+
+THE FOLLOWING TABLE SHOWS THE FINANCIAL POSITION OF THE COMPANY FROM
+1898 TO THE PRESENT TIME.
+
+Year       Share Capital.   Deben- Profit. Loss.  Placed   Balance   Dividend
+ending.                     tures                   to     Forward. (percent.)
+          Autho-   Issued   6 per cent.           Reserve.
+          rised.   and fully
+                   paid.
+             £        £       £       £       £     £         £
+30th June,
+" 1898    612,500  612,500   ...       420   ...    ...   Cr.   420    ...
+" 1899    612,500  612,500   ...     ...    1,650   ...   Dr. 1,230    ...
+" 1900    612,500  612,500   ...    11,757   ...    ...   Cr. 2,870   1-1/4
+" 1901    612,500  612,500   ...     9,854   ...   2,000  "   3,068   1-1/4
+" 1902    612,500  612,500   ...    20,746   ...  10,000  "   6,158   1-1/4
+" 1903    612,500  612,500   ...    23,988   ...  10,000  "   7,896   2
+" 1904    612,500  612,500  50,000  28,332   ...   6,000  "   8,790   3-1/2
+" 1905    612,500  612,500  50,000  36,483   ...   6,000  "   8,648   5
+" 1906    812,500  612,500  50,000  48,183   ...   6,000  "  11,018   6-1/2
+" 1907    812,500  766,500  50,000  82,700   ...  12,000  "  20,398   8
+" 1908  1,000,000  812,500  50,000  91,463   ... 86,628[E] " 20,611  10
+" 1909  1,000,000  812,500  50,000 115,375   ...  20,000  "  22,549  10 and
+                                                                  Bonus of 1-1/2
+
+[Illustration: _Loading Timber at Wayside Station._]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[E] Including £76,623 from Share Premiums.
+
+
+
+
+
+THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA.
+
+
+When one goes to a foreign country, and more especially when he intends
+to settle there with the idea of making a fortune, he naturally turns
+his attention to the value of the land, as from this he draws his views
+of the prosperity of the country. Now, twenty-five years ago the
+Argentine had comparatively very few railways; consequently, the lands
+at any long distance from Buenos Aires (the capital) were at a very low
+value. The province of Buenos Aires, the largest in the country, has
+always been the most populated, and its lands have always commanded the
+highest prices, and these have risen tremendously, but not so much of
+late years in proportion as land in the northern provinces. During the
+years 1885, 1886, 1887, and 1888, there was a great boom in land.
+Foreigners were pouring in, bringing capital; great confidence was put
+by foreign capitalists in the country, several railways had run out new
+branches, new railways were built, new banks were opened, and a very
+large extent of land was opened up and cultivated, and put under wheat
+and linseed, harvests were good and money was flowing into the country.
+Then came a very bad year, 1889; the harvest was practically lost owing
+to the heavy and continuous rains which fell from December till July
+with hardly a clear day. This, together with a bad government and the
+revolution of 1890, created a great panic and a tremendous slump in all
+land, from which it took a long time to recover. Where people had bought
+camps and mortgaged them, which was the general thing to do in those
+days, the mortgagees foreclosed, and, when the camps were auctioned
+off, they did not fetch half what the properties had been bought for in
+the first instance, some four or five years previously. This, naturally,
+had a serious effect on the credit, soundness, and finances of the
+country, but really, the crisis was not felt until some three or four
+years after, and it was 1896 and 1897 which were very serious years for
+the country.
+
+To give one an idea of the value of land in four or five of the
+principal provinces of the country, I must begin with the Queen
+Province, as it is called, viz., Buenos Aires. In 1885, property in the
+city centre was worth 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. a yard, whereas to-day it has
+been sold up to £200 sterling per yard, while suburban lots of 20 yards
+by 60 yards realised £5 and to-day are fetching £150, and camp lands
+have risen from £10,000, to £100,000 the square league. Of course this
+is within a radius of 30 to 50 leagues of the city; lands away to the
+south and west may yet be bought at £10,000, and, still further south
+towards Neuquen and the far Pampa, at £2,000 per square league. The
+province of Buenos Aires is not considered good for alfalfa growing, but
+has good natural grass camps.
+
+The province of Santa Fé is a large province, extending from the
+northern boundary of the province of Buenos Aires to Santiago del
+Estero, and contains what is known as the Gran Chaco. The southern
+portion of this province is largely dedicated to the production of
+wheat, linseed, and maize, for which it is admirably adapted. There are
+also large estancias carrying vast herds of cattle, sheep, and horses,
+while the northern portion has vast forests of very fine and valuable
+timber.
+
+[Illustration: _Wheat ready for Loading at Station on Central Argentine
+Railway._]
+
+The first part of this province to be developed was the country around
+Rosario, the large port on the River Parana, where ocean-going steamers
+call. This, together with good railway accommodation in all directions
+combined with excellent land in the district, facilitates the
+cultivation of cereals on a very large scale. Property in Rosario itself
+is very valuable, and from £30 to £50 a yard is a common figure. In the
+immediate district of Rosario land is rarely sold in large areas, but
+may be calculated at £20 an acre, whilst 40 leagues further north it is
+to-day worth £50,000 a league. I know of one estancia of one league
+which was bought in 1885 for £2,000, resold, after being sown down in
+alfalfa and divided into paddocks, without further improvements, at
+£12,000 (this was in 1903), and again sold in 1909, certainly with
+further improvements as regards watering arrangements and more paddocks,
+house, and sheds, etc., in fact, a fair model estancia in good working
+order, for £60,000. Land on the south-west of Rosario, and about 40
+leagues distant, has in the twenty-five years risen from £2,000 a league
+to £40,000 a league. This is for virgin camp, and to-day in these
+districts the average price can be stated at from £30,000 to £40,000 per
+league, yet 300 miles further north land--good land--can be had at from
+£4,000 to £6,000 per league.
+
+The next province, Cordoba, is one of the most hilly in the country, and
+has been one of the most developed during latter years. Some twenty
+years ago this was almost considered a desert, where one was told
+nothing would grow and cattle could not live. To-day it is one of the
+most prosperous; wheat and linseed are great products here, while
+alfalfa, when carefully treated, that is, not overstocked, lives for
+ever on account of the sandy soil, and water being so near the surface.
+These lands twenty years ago were valued at about £500 to £600 per
+league, while to-day it is difficult to acquire land under cultivation
+or alfalfa at less than £30,000 per league. In the Northern part of this
+province are very valuable stone quarries.
+
+Another province that is advancing very fast is that of San Luis. Here,
+again, it has been found that alfalfa is at home, and thrives
+splendidly. This, again, is a very sandy soil, and consequently is much
+sought after, but this land has not yet touched the value of that in the
+provinces already mentioned; it will not stand so much cropping, and
+will not carry the same amount of stock, but still the average price for
+virgin camp is from £5,000 to £10,000 per league. In this province there
+is a very large extent of very poor land, covered with a small shrub,
+which is not worth more than £2,000 a league.
+
+Mendoza is a more northerly province, and mostly dedicated to the grape
+and wine industry, while a lot of fruit is also exported from there.
+Wine is made in very large quantities, and a lot of very good quality.
+The value of land varies very much. The greater portion is worth at
+present very little. The great point is to get the water concessions for
+irrigating; without irrigation the land is useless. A good vineyard in
+its prime, with good irrigation rights, is worth as much as from £40 to
+£50 per acre, while the ordinary camp land is at about 7s. per acre.
+
+[Illustration: _The Maker of Land Values._]
+
+
+
+
+REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+The Argentine Republic, like all hot countries, is subject to very great
+hurricanes and storms. They occur most frequently in the spring and
+summer, when very sudden changes of temperature take place. The
+thermometer has often been known to drop 25 degrees within half an hour.
+
+A great deal of damage is always caused, trees which have taken years of
+care and trouble are ruthlessly uprooted, roofs blown off, windmills
+blown down, haystacks turned over, and valuable animals struck by
+lightning. The terrible closeness and stillness which generally precede
+a "tormenta" are certain forerunners of bad weather and storms. A
+terrible hailstorm which took place some time ago will always be
+remembered by its spectators. The usual signs of it were evident; the
+atmosphere had become very close and it had been extremely hot for some
+hours before. Though only about 4 p.m., it got peculiarly dark and a
+strong gale began to blow, and distant sounds of thunder were heard. A
+sudden lull came, which meant that the storm was about to break; sheets
+of lightning of every description were followed by deafening peals of
+thunder, which made man and beast tremble. Then there came a downfall of
+huge hailstones; they were just like big lumps of jagged ice; some of
+them measured about six to eight inches round and weighed over half a
+pound. This storm did a fearful lot of harm; not a leaf was left on a
+single tree, and hundreds of birds lay dead all around. Though very
+violent, this hailstorm did not last more than ten minutes, in which
+time an incalculable amount of destruction took place.
+
+In September, 1909, a very bad cyclone suddenly came on us. The sky
+turned black and blacker, and the clouds looked horribly wicked.
+Suddenly a terrific gale got up, which caused every window and door to
+rattle in a most alarming manner, though they had all been as well
+secured as possible. The dust seemed to filter in just the same, and in
+five minutes the house was an inch thick in it. We heard a loud bang and
+then another over our heads, and on looking out of a window we saw the
+roof of one of the outer buildings lying on the ground; part of it had
+been blown over our house and had carried away the chimney, a big iron
+one, on its way. We were told afterwards that the cook had had to use
+all her force against the kitchen window to keep it from bursting open,
+as, if the wind had got in, it would have carried away that roof as
+well. This hurricane lasted for about an hour and a-half; as soon as it
+had abated somewhat we went out to see the result. Everywhere reigned
+havoc and confusion, the whole place looked an old ruin, brick-bats,
+tiles, broken branches, loose sheets of corrugated iron lying all
+around; three roofs had been blown away, several windmills knocked down
+and carried 100 yards away, and lovely old trees had been completely
+uprooted.
+
+The natives, frightened of remaining in their own quarters, had, in
+their terror, deserted them and taken refuge, with their wives and
+children, in the open camp, where they fondly imagined they were safer.
+Out in the camp the roofs of most of the "puestos," or huts, had been
+also carried away, leaving the occupants exposed to the cold rains and
+winds which followed.
+
+A peculiar feature of this storm was that it was not at all general; at
+the neighbouring "estancias" it was not felt at all, and some of the
+"peons," who were riding in the camp at the time, said they could see
+this whirlwind coming a long way off at a tremendous rate and that it
+looked like a column of red smoke; they could not feel the effects of
+the wind either, although they were not more than half a mile away.
+
+This storm was followed by very heavy rains which lasted for about ten
+days, during which our house was flooded, as the wind had lifted the
+tiles and the rain was driven in through every possible place.
+
+Another time, when driving home from the town of Vernado Tuerto, we were
+caught in a very bad dust storm. Things became so black that we could
+not see where we were going, so we had to halt. The wind was so strong
+that the men had to get out of the carriage, which was a heavy
+covered-in waggonette, and hold the wheels down to prevent it from being
+overturned. We all looked like seaside niggers, as the dust and rain
+falling at once came down like mud on us all. One gets quite hardened to
+these severe storms. On one occasion a very rough wind began to blow,
+but, as it was a steady gale, no one took particular notice of it. It
+was after dinner, and everybody was busy playing cards. The wind made
+such a deafening noise that you could hardly hear yourself speak;
+presently some of the occupants of the house thought they would have a
+look outside to see if things were all right; when they were surprised
+to see an outer building, used for stores and machinery, roofless, and
+the roof nowhere to be seen; it was discovered afterwards on the top of
+their own house, and they had never heard it happen.
+
+The climate in the Argentine is very variable; we have great extremes of
+heat and cold. It is healthy as a rule, except in the swampy districts
+or during a very wet season, when a great many residents suffer from
+rheumatism.
+
+People talk about the sudden changes of English weather, but we are
+treated just the same; one day it will be brilliantly hot and fine, and
+another day cold and miserable.
+
+One part of the country or another is generally suffering from drought,
+when in another part they are being flooded out.
+
+In the winter there is much more sunshine than there is in England; in
+the early morning it is bitterly cold, at noon on a fine day it is
+blazing hot, and then, as soon as the sun goes in, it freezes hard.
+
+In the summer, of course, the heat is very great, but, as it is
+generally dry, it is quite healthy.
+
+
+
+
+SOME EXPERIENCES OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS.
+
+I came out with my brother on a tramp steamer from Penarth. We took
+thirty-one days. However, time passed fairly quickly, chipping off rust
+and painting the decks, after we got over our sickness.
+
+Rain fell heavily as we landed at Buenos Aires, two typical _gringos_
+(greenhorns), not knowing a word of Spanish. I went to a first-class
+hotel, whose proprietor I had met in England. My first attempt to speak
+Spanish was in a tram. I asked the conductor to stop; getting out I
+said, "Mucha grasa" (much fat), instead of "muchas gracias" (many
+thanks)--then called the man a fool for laughing.
+
+We stopped in Buenos Aires a week and our bill came into hundreds of
+dollars, which took a big slice off our small means.
+
+We then went to an estancia (farm) in the Province of Cordoba. The
+estancia was fifty-one miles square, owned by an Argentine family. The
+manager was a North-American, well known in camp life.
+
+The estancia consisted of three sections, one where I went, another
+where my brother was, and the other the headquarters.
+
+I was under a young Scotchman. The camp was fifteen miles, with 3,000
+cows, 2,000 steers, and 500 mares. There was my companion, one peon
+(man), a boy, and myself. My house was made of mud walls and floor, a
+zinc roof, with a little straw. It was cool in summer, but very cold in
+winter. There was one room for ourselves, where we slept and ate, one
+for the cook (when we had one), and a kitchen. Under my bed I had a
+snake's hole; a long black snake came out in the night, and, on hearing
+a sound, would go back. I did everything to kill it, but with no
+success. Also I had two kittens which slept in my bed. One night I felt
+something soft by my feet. I thought it was the kittens, but, putting my
+hand down, I found my feet covered with blood. I jumped out of bed, and
+found a young hare half eaten and my sheets covered with blood.
+
+The first thing I had to do was to skin a cow, and it made me feel very
+uncomfortable to look at the horrid sight. The next day I was sent to
+fetch the fat from a dead cow. When I got there I could not see any fat
+and wondered what it was. I saw the intestines and carried them bodily
+on my new recado (native saddle). My horse got excited and I arrived
+dead beat. I told my companion I had the fat: then he burst out laughing
+and said I had got the intestines. Needless to say my recado was the
+worse for wear.
+
+The food was different from what I was used to, and I felt ill for a
+time.
+
+In the summer I was up at between three and four, having "maté-cocido"
+(cooked Paraguayan tea--the native drink) with a hard biscuit; at
+eleven, breakfast of puchero (big pieces of meat boiled in a pot), then
+maize with milk and a biscuit. Sometimes tea at four, but very seldom;
+supper consisted of an asado and maté at seven or eight o'clock.
+
+I had charge of two valuable stallions--they had a stable of mud and
+straw.
+
+At branding time the capataz (foreman) came up with his men for a week.
+Up before three o'clock, quite dark, we branded 6,000 calves, and I
+enjoyed it.
+
+The Boss seldom came; when he did, his trap would be sure to run over a
+piece of wire, and then we heard of it; nothing missed him.
+
+Then our cook began stealing provisions from the store box. We changed
+the locks three times, and each time she bought a key to the same. One
+night I asked her for some coffee. She said there was none. I could see
+she had some in a small bag, and I went to fetch it. She took up a knife
+and threatened me. I soon twisted the knife from her. Our food was bad,
+my companion was careless, and frightened of her. One day he had a row,
+and she got the sack, using strong language. We then did our own cooking
+for eight months: the first one home from camp had to begin cooking.
+
+The meat we got was often green and bitter. All the time we had puchero
+and asado, and an occasional ostrich egg.
+
+Ostriches swarmed everywhere, and it was good sport lassoing them. I
+found one nest with fifty eggs, laid by different birds. My cooking was
+rather a failure at first, the smoke was so thick we could not see each
+other. I was told to cook maize for dinner. I made a big fire, and
+cooked for three hours, and was then told I had the stallions' maize.
+Another time it was very dark; our candles, made of old clothes and
+grease, had run out. I had made some good soup, and put the pot near the
+table, then, walking by, put my foot in it: the hot grease made me hop,
+and took the skin off my foot. Our table was an old greasy box; we had
+no plates, nor forks, just a big knife. Sometimes, coming in very tired
+from a hard day, we had no strength to chop wood and make a fire; we
+just went to bed. Many days we only had an asado and maté. Maté I am
+very fond of--it is so refreshing and sustaining.
+
+My brother was only eight miles away: his section was under alfalfa, and
+he had a comfortable house. One dark night, going home from his place, I
+followed a fence until I came to a cross fence. I was going slowly,
+when, all of a sudden, my horse stopped dead, and I shot over the fence,
+the bridle and halter came off, and away went my horse, leaving me to
+continue five miles on foot.
+
+Bizcachas (like a big badger) were numerous. One day we dug a two-metre
+hole, and next day found eight live ones. They have teeth one and a-half
+inches long.
+
+Our nearest village was eighteen miles away, where I met some English
+friends, and played tennis or had some other amusement. I used to start
+back at 2.30 a.m. to be in time for work. One night I had to cross a big
+field, without a path or fence for a guide. It was dark, and lightning
+hard. I made for a light, which I thought was the house. Going for some
+time, I came to a fence--I was lost. I unsaddled and lay down to sleep,
+the rain was pouring hard, when I heard a donkey braying, so I shouted,
+and was answered by a man in a puesto (out-station). The light I saw was
+a village twelve miles away.
+
+My companion was very slack, and the patrons came up and sacked him.
+
+Then I went to the estancia house for a month, breaking in colts for
+driving. I felt rather sad at leaving my rough work. It was hard work,
+but I never had better health.
+
+My Boss then earned $15 per month, and his wife cooked for the men. Now
+he is one of the richest men in the country.
+
+There was no opening there, so the Boss sent me to a New Zealander who
+had half a league of camp, all fine stock, good alfalfa and splendid
+water. He had a big house and I expected I would live well. My first
+work was to dig up locusts' eggs for a week under a hot sun, with the
+ground very hard. The Boss was a man of forty-two, very red-faced and
+extremely rich, but as mean as possible.
+
+Our meals took about six to eight minutes, fast eating; he would watch
+every mouthful. At tea he would take a lot of milk and give me a little;
+he finished soon, while I burnt my throat. He allowed me a slice of
+biscuit for each meal. His cook only got $10 a month.
+
+In the winter we were in bed by six to seven.
+
+His clothes were a disgrace to any peon. He had native trousers that
+button at the foot, with top boots, no socks, his heel and big toe were
+sticking out, no vest, only a shirt and an old hat, where the grease of
+many years was visible.
+
+He was a splendid worker--I have not seen a better one. We used to catch
+locusts in a big zinc box pulled by two horses; the locusts were put
+into sacks, and after being left standing for four days, were carted to
+the village, where he got 10 cents a kilo. The smell in carting these
+dead locusts was simply terrible. Then I helped pick ten square of
+maize, which at first took a little skin off my hands. At branding time
+we lassoed each calf to cut off the horns. I had to sit on their necks,
+and got smothered in the face with hot blood. The Boss was very proud
+because his monthly account only came to $12 for four of us: biscuits,
+sugar, tea, and other things. He sent his clothes once in three months
+to be washed. He had few friends, no one ever came to visit him, and
+every Sunday he shut himself in his room. He bought the place for
+$90,000 and sold it for over double. He was a thorough campman, but so
+mean. One cold winter 500 cows died of starvation; rather than sell them
+at a low price he let them starve. The last thing he said was, he was
+"going to New Zealand to marry an ugly lady, but she has plenty of
+money." His countrymen called him a disgrace to his country and the
+meanest in the Argentine.
+
+Then a kind friend found me a place on a well-known estancia in the same
+province. The manager, the second-manager, and the book-keeper were all
+Irish, born in the country. I had a good horse, which I rode fifty miles
+to the estancia.
+
+The second told me to have my food with the peons (men), which was
+rather disheartening. I tried to eat in the kitchen, but the French cook
+kicked me out, and for ten months I fed with the peons; they were very
+good fellows. The second and the book-keeper had meals together. The
+second-manager did no work: up at half-past eight, he went to the train,
+had a drink at the shop, then came back for dinner, slept until
+tea-time, then went to see the train pass again and have another drink,
+and came back at all hours. He had been there fourteen years and was
+only getting a hundred a month.
+
+The chief work was loading cattle and sheep for the big freezing
+factories. The trucks were rotten. One night we finished at 11 p.m.,
+after a hard day's work, three of us unloaded 300 quebracho posts in
+under three hours. I had a French gardener in my room who did nothing
+else but spit and talk politics.
+
+The Boss took me to learn shearing. I had to shear, gather the wool,
+sort it and pack it up. Each man got five cents a sheep, but it was hard
+work, all done by hand.
+
+Then I cut alfalfa for a fortnight--a nice easy job.
+
+A Catholic priest came to stay for eight days--Mass every day at 7 a.m.
+and 8 p.m., sometimes three a day. No work at all. Everyone had to
+go--the book-keeper did not, so he got the sack. I, as a Protestant,
+went to the sermons, which were very good. It was wonderful; these rough
+campmen went away quite tamed for a time. The last night the Boss got
+married at half-past twelve at night to a native lady. Another time,
+while we were at Mass, someone came to say the gardener was dying--we
+raced down, the priest in front ready to hear his confession, but when
+we got there the gardener was calmly smoking his pipe, greatly
+surprised.
+
+An inspector of locusts stopped all the summer. He did nothing but eat,
+sleep, and drink whisky. We had locust-killing machines of every
+description, but we did not kill ten kilos.
+
+The days I enjoyed were when we started out early to part some animals
+in a herd of over a thousand. At eleven we would have an asado and maté,
+and give our horses a drink, then finish parting, and get home at
+half-past seven. The horses look wrecks, and no good, but they work all
+day--mostly galloping--and are splendid stayers.
+
+The Boss's brother, a very nice man of fifty, married a servant of the
+Boss, a girl of eighteen.
+
+Great excitement is caused by races. The Boss was keen, and the men
+talked of nothing else for days. Every Sunday there are races. Once I
+rode my horse bareback in three races of 200 metres, and won a bottle of
+beer, a packet of tobacco, and a knife.
+
+Then I was put in charge of fine stock. I had ten Durham bulls, two
+thoroughbred stallions, one Pecheron, eight rams and twelve pigs. I had
+a boy under me. I also had to saddle up the Boss's and the Second's
+horses, and harness the traps. Sometimes I had to wait till eleven at
+night, very tired, to unsaddle the Second's horse, as he had been making
+love to the Stationmaster's sister.
+
+The work was very interesting and hard, even on Sundays or feast days,
+watering, cleaning the animals, and curing any foals that were ill.
+
+I then moved to another room near the stable, with a newly arrived
+Italian who knew no Spanish nor English, also an Irishman just arrived.
+They could not speak to each other. The Irishman slept on the floor
+every night, and poured kerosene all over him to keep insects away. One
+day he poisoned five pigs, giving them the dip-water to drink. He had
+few clothes. He would turn them inside out, and often had three pairs of
+trousers and two shirts on.
+
+One day the Boss was out: the men were taming some wild colts in the
+corral. I took French leave and went. I got on five. None had had a
+saddle on before or even been handled. We lassoed them, pulled them down
+and put on the bridle. Then five men held a long rope and one put on the
+native saddle, with stirrups big enough to get your toes in. Then they
+tied a red handkerchief round my head. I mounted gently but quickly.
+Then the rope was taken off and away the colt went as fast as possible,
+with one man on each side to shove you either way, all the time bucking
+and plunging. I did not fall, but one stirrup broke. One laid down and
+would not move. It tried to bite everyone. When they go fast and buck at
+the same time it is very hard to stick on.
+
+On the 25th of May, the great holiday in this country, I went to an
+estancia to see some friends. On my way back we had to cross a deep
+river. The coachman drove across, but one wheel went into a big hole and
+the jerk sent me out on my head, where the wheel passed over my hair,
+missing my head by inches. I was senseless. A crowd of women came and
+began weeping--they thought I was dead--then I was taken in a procession
+to the chemist, who sent me to a hospital, where I found my collar bone
+broken. I did nothing for three weeks.
+
+This estancia is a splendid one for learners, because there is a little
+of everything. Once I had a month with the threshing machine, sleeping
+out with the mosquitoes, and getting meat nearly raw for food; but a lot
+of money can be made from the harvest.
+
+Then, after a few weeks' holiday to England, we came back, and I went
+down south with my brother to sow alfalfa seed. We had a caravan on
+wheels, and learned how to plough and sow. We went to a camp
+race-meeting, where every estancia has its own tent, there is racing all
+day and dancing at night.
+
+I often look back upon these jolly times. Work was exacted with anything
+but kindness, but the life was simple and very healthy, and many
+pleasant reminiscences are talked over when it is my luck to join others
+around the camp fire before falling to sleep with nothing but a
+bullock's head as a pillow and a "recado" as a blanket and the glorious,
+starry sky above one.
+
+
+
+
+THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE.
+
+
+To an outsider, life in the camps or country might be considered very
+slow: the distance between the estancias being so great, the ordinary
+form of social life is quite impossible; for instance, when one goes to
+pay a call on a neighbour, even a first call, it means going for the
+day, starting in the cool of the morning and returning in the evening,
+and so allowing the horses to have a rest. Of course, if everyone had a
+motor-car, this might not be necessary; but as yet they are very few and
+far between. This is no doubt owing to the bad roads; in most districts,
+after a few hours' rain, the roads are flooded, and what is worse still,
+"pantanosa" (thick, sticky mud).
+
+Most estancieros keep open house, and are only too pleased when people
+"drop in," which they do at all times and for any meal, almost without a
+"by your leave." An estancia house has to be very elastic, and ready to
+provide, at a moment's notice, board and lodging for unexpected guests.
+This is quite the nicest way of entertaining one's friends--no fuss of
+preparation, and, more often than not, a very jolly evening of cards,
+music, or games.
+
+It is a delightful country for men, a healthy, open-air life, with
+plenty of hard work and hard riding; each man has from four to six
+horses allowed him for working purposes, and then, as a rule (talking of
+the English mayor-domo), he has two or three polo ponies of his own.
+Sunday is the great day for polo; there is very little time in our busy
+Argentine even for a practice game during the week, so Sunday means a
+merry meeting of friends wherever there is a polo club in the district,
+people going in six or seven leagues (or even more) from one side of
+the town to meet friends who have come an equal distance from the other
+side, a thing they might not do for months if it were not for the polo
+club. Each lady takes her turn in providing tea on these polo Sundays,
+and there is great competition as to who makes the best cakes,
+especially as it often falls to the lady herself to make these luxuries.
+
+Wherever there is a polo club the most exciting event of the year is the
+Spring Race Meeting, two days' racing, often followed by a polo match or
+tournament with neighbouring clubs, and always as many dances as
+possible, as it is the only time in the year when enough girls can be
+collected together; every estancia house has its own party, as many as
+can be crowded in, including friends from Buenos Aires and Rosario, who
+delight in these camp meetings, and she is a proud hostess who can count
+a few girls amongst her party. I may as well add here that girls are
+almost "non est" in the camp, many districts for leagues and leagues
+round not being able to boast of one English girl.
+
+[Illustration: _Tennis Party at Vera_.]
+
+Most clubs hold a Gymkhana Meeting in the Autumn, which makes one more
+excitement in the year: it is a very merry meeting as a rule, with
+always a dance or two if enough girls can be found. During the Winter
+season (from April 1st to September 1st) the shooting is very good in
+most parts, and many good shooting parties are given where there is
+enough game to make it worth while asking one's friends. The bag
+consists of partridges, martinetta (similar to the pheasant) and hares
+(which are not considered worth picking up); when there are a number of
+guns, dogs are not used, but two men on horseback drag a wire through
+the grass (several in a line, if a big party), which forces the birds to
+rise, and the guns walk behind. Peons on horseback, carrying sacks, keep
+close up to them and pick up the birds as they fall, and close on their
+heels comes a big brake, into which are emptied the contents of the
+sacks as they get too heavy. The ladies of the party follow in all sorts
+and conditions of vehicles, cheering on the shooters and dispensing
+much-needed refreshments. A shoot is always followed up by a jolly
+evening, after a hot bath and a good dinner. The men, forgetting how
+tired they are, are quite ready to sing, dance, or play bridge until the
+small hours. Another great event not to be forgotten is the visit of the
+Camp Chaplain: he goes from one district to another holding services,
+every Sunday in a different place. In a well-populated district he would
+hold one about every two months, but to some places, where there are
+next to no English people, he would probably only go about once or twice
+a year. Church Sunday is quite an event, and again gives one an
+opportunity of meeting friends from a distance. The parson is very
+lenient with us as a rule, and does not object to any form of amusement
+in the afternoon, such as polo, tennis, cricket, football, or golf, and
+encourages the young men to come to _Church_ (usually a room hired for
+the occasion) in costumes suitable for such. Our poor Camp Chaplain does
+not have an easy time; distances are so great that more than half his
+time is spent on the train.
+
+[Illustration: _Carnival at Vera_.]
+
+
+
+
+CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+Carnival falls every year during the week before the beginning of Lent.
+It is a general holiday, and much fun and amusement are crammed into the
+few days which precede the dull season of fasting.
+
+Carnival is more observed in camp towns than in the bigger cities, where
+the custom of celebrating it is very much on the wane, and where the law
+forbids water-throwing and other such damp forms of amusement, which are
+winked at by the more lenient authorities in local towns.
+
+It is really quite a pretty sight to see a camp town during carnival.
+The one main street, which does not boast of pavements, and is generally
+a yard deep in dust, is gaily decorated with bunting and festoons. Small
+stands are put up every ten yards or so, in which the "caballeros" take
+up their positions and pelt the "senoritas" with confetti and
+"serpentinas" (blocks of different coloured paper which look like rolls
+of tape about 30 or 50 yards long). The elite of the "pueblo" drive
+round in the procession; ladies, some in the very latest creations, and
+some in beautiful fancy dresses, parade round in flower and ribbon
+bedecked carriages. A prize is generally given to the best decorated
+conveyance, and to the best fancy costume, which causes a lot of
+competition and jealousy amongst the fair sex.
+
+On an estancia, carnival is celebrated in a much more drastic fashion.
+On one place, the giddy members of the household have a very rowdy time
+of it, and make things very lively for the unwary. On one occasion, they
+determined to give the mayor-domo his share of the general drenching
+which he had missed; so when he rode in at midday, after a long and busy
+morning's work in the camp, he was welcomed with a volley of buckets of
+water, which were emptied over him from the top of the house, where the
+delinquents had taken up their advantageous position.
+
+Another time a certain young damsel, a guest in the same house, saw from
+the window her hostess entertaining one of the boys, a fresh arrival
+from England, who had ridden over from a neighbouring estancia. Prompted
+by her daring friends she was induced to take up a jug of water, and
+stealing up behind his chair, emptied the contents of the vessel over
+the visitor's head, and then bolted; the injured party, after recovering
+his self-possession, rose to the occasion and gave chase, and after a
+desperate struggle, and in spite of penitent apologies, she was borne
+off by her captor and deposited in the first tub he happened to see,
+which turned out to be a freshly painted rubbish barrel.
+
+There is not much respecting of persons on these occasions, the girls
+generally combine against the boys, who, as a rule, come off best. The
+most binding promises are made on both sides, who vow not to throw
+anything larger than a "globo" (a small balloon filled with water, which
+bursts when it touches anything solid) or "poms" (leaden squirt full of
+scent); but in the excitement of the fray which follows all is
+forgotten, and buckets of water, the garden hose, and even the ducking
+of some in water troughs, are the final outcome.
+
+The scene after an afternoon or evening's battle is very funny; girls,
+with their hair lying in dripping masses over their faces and shoulders,
+their dresses, generally the oldest of thin cotton ones, clinging
+hopelessly to their wearied forms, present a truly comic sight. When
+they are all tired of strife, they retire by common consent to the
+house, where, after discarding their soaking garments and taking a warm
+bath, they are ready to discuss the glories of the day over a
+much-wanted dinner.
+
+
+
+
+HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+
+
+HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+In this country a great deal more racing goes on than in Europe, and it
+is not confined to the moneyed classes only. Even the "peones" hold
+their small meetings and match their grass-fed ponies. Estancieros and
+mayor-domos have camp race-meetings once or twice yearly at all the
+larger polo clubs, and at Palermo and Hurlingham every class of society
+in Buenos Aires may be seen on the stands.
+
+At Palmero race-meetings are held frequently, almost weekly in fact, on
+Sunday afternoons; and the stands are generally well filled. On days of
+festival, when there is a special programme, the place is crowded, and
+these occasions correspond, more or less, with the more important
+meetings in England.
+
+The course is of earth, and perfectly flat, so that the only thing which
+interferes with the view is dust. The stands are magnificent and the
+different grades of society are divided by railings, while at the back
+of each may be seen the row of offices of the "Sport," which is the
+betting system of the country.
+
+This consists of tickets, which are sold at a fixed price, with the name
+of one of the entries. After the race there is a great rush to the
+offices, made by those who have bought the winner, to collect their
+winnings, which are the total receipts, minus a small percentage,
+divided by the number of those who bought the winner. In this way a very
+hot favourite will pay very little more than the original purchase
+money, while an outsider who wins will pay his backers perhaps ten, or
+even twenty times their deposit. There is also private betting, of
+course, but no public bookmakers.
+
+The horses are of very good quality, though not up to the standard of
+the classic races in Europe. A number of youngsters are imported yearly
+from England and the United States, and among them usually some good
+selling-plate winners, and one or two that have been placed in
+first-class flat races. The country also produces some excellent horses,
+and they are improving every year; the stud farms are already well known
+in Europe as some of the best in the world. Of these, the most
+important, perhaps, is the "Ojo de Agua," so-called from its famous
+spring, which waters all the stables as well as dwelling quarters. It is
+the home of the famous Cyllene, whose offspring we expect to see winning
+races in the near future; Polar Star, scarcely less known, and
+Ituzaingo, a native of this country, are his present companions; while
+the remains of Gay Hermit, Stiletto, Pietermaritzburg, and Kendal, all
+of whom are well known among turf circles at home, rest beneath its
+soil. There are several other equally famous stud farms, such as the
+"San Jacinto," the present home of Val d'Or, who won the Eclipse Stakes
+from Cicero, the Derby winner of that year; at another, Diamond Jubilee,
+whose list of victories is long, resided for the latter part of his
+life.
+
+Nor are the jockeys unworthy of their mounts, and some very fine riding
+may be witnessed both at Palermo and Hurlingham.
+
+In contrast to these races, run on a well-ordered course, and watched
+from luxurious stands, are the native "cancha" meetings, held, probably,
+at some country public-house, and run on a "cancha," consisting of a
+soft piece of road, or along a fence where there are no holes. The races
+consist of matches arranged between two ponies, over short distances.
+The start is made only by agreement of both the jockeys, and thus many
+hours are wasted in their manoeuvres to get the advantage of one another
+at the start. If the judges have money on the loser, the race is often
+given a dead heat, and has to be run again. The pony of most endurance
+has usually the best chance of winning, though the race itself is short,
+as his rival may be tired out by repeated false starts. Large sums of
+money often change hands at these meetings, as the native is a born
+gambler, and understands this primitive method of racing better than the
+more complicated systems of the regular course. Owing to this, and to
+the competitors' efforts to cheat one another, not infrequently knives
+are drawn during the heated discussion which follows the race.
+
+The ponies are, for the most part, taken straight off the camp, though
+in some cases they have been fed on maize and trained. They are ridden
+either bareback or with the native "recado," and catch-weights: as may
+be gathered from the method, it is usually "owners up."
+
+Between these two extreme classes of racing in this country are the
+English camp race-meetings, which are held by all the larger polo clubs
+once or twice a year. Being of rare occurrence, and as some, if not all,
+of the faces are open to members of other clubs, these are among the
+chief social gatherings in camp life: in many cases there is a small
+polo tournament attached, as it is the best opportunity for those who
+come from a distance, and could not come twice. Therefore it usually
+means a two or three days' holiday, and often a dance, or some
+entertainment in the evenings. Old friends exchange reminiscences, and
+new acquaintances are formed; while the ladies also make the best of the
+opportunity to put on their smartest frocks and hats.
+
+The races themselves, too, are the source of considerable talk and
+excitement: both horses and jockeys are well known by sight or
+reputation to the chief part of the company, and any "dark horse" or new
+arrival, is inspected with care and anxiety by his rivals.
+
+The class of horse entered varies between the three-quarter bred and the
+"criollo" with no pretence to breeding at all, who often carries off the
+short polo pony sprints. Occasionally there may be a thoroughbred
+entered who has been found wanting at Palermo or Hurlingham, but these
+are few and not always successful, as the longest races do not often
+exceed about a mile and a-half. As the weights correspond to
+steeplechase weights at home the jockeys are practically always
+amateurs, and a large percentage of "owners up" is always found. Young
+mayor-domos who have never ridden at a meeting before often find
+themselves ranged alongside of Grand National riders at the start, and
+some amusing incidents have occurred, though there is some very good
+amateur riding to be seen as well.
+
+The betting is on a smaller scale generally than at the native meeting,
+and is often conducted by someone setting up as a public bookmaker; at
+other times a "sport" is formed after the fashion of Palermo. Also the
+auction of all entries before the start of the races in the American way
+is a great favourite; the total receipts for each race are divided
+proportionately between those who bought the winner and "placed" horses.
+
+There is opportunity for a little horse-dealing too, and many good polo
+ponies to send home or play in the tournaments have been picked up in
+this way. The shorter races for ponies under polo height give an
+opportunity to the polo player, and the mayor-domo who cannot train his
+ponies for longer distances, to try the mettle of their mounts against
+outside and purer blood.
+
+Nowadays most of the entries are trained to some extent, though not
+many go to regular training establishments. To have a reasonable chance
+of running well in the longer races, however, it is necessary to have
+your mounts in stable exercised regularly and fed on corn. It is only
+quite lately, however, that even so much training has been adopted at
+all generally. In the old pioneer days of English estancias, when these
+clubs were formed, they raced ponies taken straight off grass and kept
+fit by riding the regular rounds of camp and stock.
+
+There are many tales of the great "rags" that happened in those days,
+and curious incidents of racing, too. On one occasion a winner of a polo
+pony race was objected to as over height. The measurement was to be
+taken after the end of the meeting; and it must be remembered that all
+ponies out in the camp are unshod. The man who had come in second went
+round to the stables before the measuring and noticed in the winner's
+stall a number of large pieces of hoof recently chopped off. The pony
+passed with an inch off his forefeet and nothing was said, though it had
+been obviously over height. That evening at bridge the owner happened to
+win considerably from the man who had lodged the complaint, who, when
+the score was to be settled, threw down some pieces of hoof on the table
+saying, "Take back your dirty chips."
+
+Nowadays, of course, things are not quite so rough and ready, and most
+of the clubs are affiliated, and run under Hurlingham or the Jockey Club
+rules, so that good sport and good feeling prevail. In fact the camp man
+looks forward to these occasions as the best bits of sport and amusement
+that he will get during the year.
+
+
+
+
+SUNDAYS IN CAMP.
+
+
+
+
+
+SUNDAYS IN CAMP.
+
+
+In no place is Sunday more looked forward to and enjoyed than in camp.
+Holidays on the estancia come but seldom, and were it not for the
+welcome break that gives the campman a day of rest every week, his life
+would be a round of work, and probably make him the proverbial "dull
+boy." All the busy working-days are so filled with the various duties
+that when evening comes and dinner is over the tired worker has little
+inclination for reading or any other relaxation, the thought of that
+early bell which rouses him before sunrise makes him take advantage of
+every hour's sleep he can. At an hour when the townman is thinking of
+beginning the evening's amusement at theatre or concert, the campman is
+sleeping the sound sleep that fresh air combined with hard work never
+denies. But on one evening an exception is made to these early hours,
+and that is Saturday. With the pleasant feeling of a week's work
+completed and the morrow's rest before them, our campmen begin their
+weekly holiday by an extra hour or two at billiards or music, or perhaps
+a rubber of bridge, turning in with a fervid "Thank goodness,
+to-morrow's Sunday." Then the pleasure of waking at the usual hour (4
+a.m. or even earlier in summer) and remembering that it is the blessed
+Day of Rest, and having time to enjoy the extra hours, then the luxury
+of dressing at one's leisure, choosing the collar and most becoming tie
+and adjusting them with care, and coming out in spotless white duck or
+smart riding breeches, ready to enjoy whatever sport is in season;
+tennis is mostly played all the year round; and when birds are plentiful
+a shoot on the lagunas attracts the sportsman, the "bag" making a
+welcome variety to the dinner table; snipe, partridge, hares, and many
+varieties of duck are common in a season that has not been too dry.
+Then, to those lucky ones who have a polo club within reach, Sunday
+during the winter season is a day of real enjoyment.
+
+The game, which in England can only be played by men of means, can on
+the estancia be enjoyed by all at little expense, the useful little
+Argentine horses being easily trained to the game. Sometimes one finds a
+few enterprising golfers who, with not a little trouble, make a few
+"greens" and do a couple of rounds just to keep their hand in, but it is
+not a general camp game. It will be seen, however, that the Day of Rest
+is not one of idleness, but rather a healthful and beneficial change of
+exercise.
+
+Church service enters but seldom into the camp Sunday--such privileges
+are rare, although now camp parsons are more numerous than a few years
+ago--but at best one can only count on one or two services a year. When
+a Church service _is_ held he would be a carping critic indeed who is
+not satisfied and pleased with the earnest attention with which the
+service is followed and the vigorous singing of hymns and chants in
+which all the boys join so lustily; it is a reminder of Home to them,
+and the familiar service is thoroughly enjoyed.
+
+The Day of Rest, so essential to one's well-being, seems to come round
+with such surprising rapidity that we may say truly it proves that
+estancia life, with its long hours of hard work, so far from being
+monotonous or wearisome, is a happy life. Where time flies past quickly
+it means it passes happily, and amongst the most pleasant of the days we
+spend in this land of sunshine we must count the Sundays in camp.
+
+[Illustration: "A Day of Real Enjoyment."]
+
+THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.
+
+
+
+
+THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.
+
+
+We often hear complaints from friends at home about the trouble they
+experience over obtaining and keeping good servants, and there is no
+doubt that the servant problem is a serious one in England, and is
+getting worse every year; but it pales into insignificance when compared
+with the trials and tribulations of those who live in the Argentine and
+have to keep house.
+
+From all one hears, those living in Buenos Aires and the larger towns
+have a terrible time of it with their servants, especially if they are
+not overburdened with the good things of this world in the shape of hard
+cash; but my experiences have been confined to the camp, so that of the
+town side of the question I cannot speak.
+
+I have been three years in the province of Cordoba, and all the servants
+I have met with except one were Argentines from the foothills of the
+Cordoba Sierras.
+
+They were without exception quite untrained as far as the English idea
+goes, and the first thing to do with them was usually to teach them the
+primitive ideas of cleanliness. The first servant I had was an ancient
+female named Andrea, about forty years old, and it proved quite
+impossible to get her to see the necessity of keeping anything in the
+kitchen clean, as she seemed imbued with the idea that it was great
+waste of time washing saucepans and frying-pans, as they would only get
+dirty again when next used, and the most she could be persuaded to do
+was to rub them round inside with a bit of old newspaper or a handful of
+grass. Needless to say, after a time I got tired of these methods, and
+so we parted.
+
+My next servant, Angelina, was one of the best I had, as she was clean,
+which was a great consideration, and also she was quick to learn and
+soon picked up the rudiments of cooking according to our ideas; her
+great failing, however, was that she was anything but honest, and could
+not refrain from petty pilfering; and another drawback to her was her
+objection to wearing shoes or stockings in the hot weather; in spite of
+being constantly told that she must not appear without them, she would
+insist in doing so, and this was a continual cause of trouble.
+
+After getting rid of No. 2 our real troubles began, and we had eight
+changes in ten months. At the time we were living in wooden huts about
+two miles from a village which was a summer resort for rich people from
+Buenos Aires, and this caused a dearth of servants during the summer
+months, as the place was full from the beginning of December to the end
+of March, and people who came up for the summer and rented houses
+usually were willing to pay anything to get servants, with the result
+that we outside would get none, or only the cast-off ones. Nos. 3 and 4
+stayed but a short time. My fifth attempt was a terrible girl, too dirty
+for words; and though apparently willing to learn, too utterly lacking
+in intelligence to ever learn anything. She used to get herself into the
+most awful grimy condition, and one incident during her time with me is
+worth mentioning. I had with great difficulty one day got her to
+understand that a wood floor could not be properly cleaned with a grass
+broom dipped in cold water and just swished about over it, and, by going
+down on my knees with a scrubbing brush and hot water and soap, and
+giving a practical demonstration of how a floor should be washed, had
+started her away to clean it, and judged that I might safely leave her,
+to attend to the other household duties in the kitchen. I must tell you
+that the day previously I had given her a practical lesson in
+black-leading a stove by doing it myself while she looked on. Well,
+after an hour in the kitchen I returned to see how she was getting on,
+when I found to my great pleasure that not content with scrubbing the
+floor, she had also attacked the stove with hot water, soap, and
+scrubbing brush, with the result that my hard work of the previous day
+was all undone and the whole room well sprinkled with black specks and
+the stove a mass of rust. Two weeks of similar experiences finished our
+acquaintance, and she gave place to No. 6. After I had spent three weeks
+teaching No. 6 cooking, she quietly informed me that she was leaving at
+the end of the week to take up a place as cook in Rosario, as she now
+knew enough cooking for the position; so I had not only wasted all my
+time in teaching her, but had paid her into the bargain for learning
+enough to leave me.
+
+The next servant, No. 7, Alexandrina, was, I think, the worst. She was a
+Spaniard from Barcelona. She was an awful individual, and would insist
+on wearing clothes of so light and scanty a nature that she was not
+decent to have about the house; also, whenever we happened to have a
+joke of any sort to laugh over at meals, she used immediately to come in
+from the kitchen to see what was going on, and I had the greatest
+difficulty to get her to return to the kitchen. I had to get rid of her,
+because her moral reputation was anything but good, and two days in the
+week she refused to get out of bed, and told me to do my own dirty work,
+as she was ill; so at the end of two weeks she had to go. No. 8, Maria,
+was a girl direct from the sierras, and was very stupid and silly, and
+did not a single thing. One day I was buying vegetables, and she asked
+me why I wanted to buy roots, and when I told her they were to eat, she
+said even poor people could afford to buy meat, and she would not eat
+them. One day I took this girl out with me to do some shopping, and
+called on some people who had a piano. It was twilight, and someone was
+playing the piano, and she rushed in the room and out again, with her
+face very white, and said someone was beating a big, black animal in the
+corner of the room, and it was screaming dreadfully with the pain. This
+girl's mother was a very talkative old lady, and would insist on coming
+with three children every day and taking up her position in the kitchen,
+and when once she commenced to talk, one could not get away from her. At
+the end of the month she came for the girl's pay, and wanted me to pay
+her more money, which I was not willing to do, as I had been unable to
+teach her much; so she asked if her daughter might go away for the day
+and night, as she had to bath. This I was only too willing to agree to,
+and let her go; but they returned in the middle of the night, and
+removed all her belongings. After a few days I managed to get No. 9, who
+was a widow with two children: but she only stayed two weeks. Our tenth
+and last attempt was made with No. 4 once more, as she was again able to
+come to us. She stayed two months, when we went away for four weeks'
+holiday. A week after our return I paid her in full for the month,
+though she had never been near the house all that time, and she promptly
+said she could not stay with us any longer, and left. We nearly got to
+No. 11, as we engaged a girl to come at $20 a month to start with, and
+she was to come the next morning at eight o'clock to begin work. She
+arrived at 10 a.m., and informed me that, as we had paid our last
+servant $25 the month, she could not come for less. I was so sick and
+tired of my experiences that this finished me, and I decided to do
+without any servant. Since then, for the last year, I have done the work
+myself.
+
+
+
+
+POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.
+
+
+
+
+POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.
+
+
+Yes, times have changed since I went to San Cristobal just twenty years
+ago. For then the English were pioneers, so to speak; not in a country
+of savagery, but of semi-savagery, a very different and much worse
+matter. I wonder is A.J., the Chief of Police, still to the fore? Ye
+gods, how that man tried to break my heart, and how nearly he succeeded!
+I was a Mayor-domo then, and G. was my boss, standing in the place of
+the owners to me. The boss had a mortal dread of the police and their
+powers, seen and unseen. So that when the worthy Chief of Police
+suddenly decided to add the trade of butchering to his many lucrative
+businesses, I received orders to sell him cows at twenty-five per cent.
+less price than I sold to any of his competitors. Thus, whereas I was
+selling them at twenty dollars paper, then worth about one pound per
+head, I had to sell him at fifteen shillings, with the inevitable result
+that he almost immediately became master of the situation and the entire
+local market became his, enabling him to charge what he liked for meat,
+while I was forbidden to raise the price of the cows sold him.
+
+Insatiable in his greed, he began to ask for cattle twice a week, always
+taking from ten to twenty animals, until one day, after exceptionally
+wet weather, I protested that it was not possible to round up the stock
+in the then state of the camp and destroy so much grass for a small
+bunch of cows. Unlucky thought and ill-judged protest! For when he urged
+that the inhabitants of the town were starving, and that a small point
+of half-breed heifers would do to go on with, I received orders to let
+him part out from our best herd. Twenty fine half-bred Herefords did he
+pick while I almost shed tears of blood, though all the time, of course,
+I had to show a smiling face.
+
+This sort of thing had been going on for some time, when one of the
+boundary riders told me that the fence between the town and one of our
+nearest paddocks had been cut during the night.
+
+"Then mend it up," said I.
+
+"Sir, it is mended already."
+
+Not a week had passed before the same man brought me the same report. So
+I determined to "parar rodeo" (round up the cattle) immediately, and
+count them. Twenty heifers short in one square league, and in less than
+a month! This thing had to stop. I told the Capataz to take the boundary
+rider off that beat, without telling him why, and then the Capataz and I
+patrolled the fence night after night for a week, during which it was
+never cut.
+
+We put a new boundary rider on, and three mornings later he came to see
+me bright and early, saying that not only had the fence been cut, but
+that there were distinct traces of cattle having passed out recently.
+
+After assuring myself that there was no doubt about the matter, for I
+found the hoof marks of what I calculated to be not less than twenty
+animals, I went post haste to my friend the Chief of Police, never
+doubting that after all the favours shown him he would prove a friend in
+need. I was young then.
+
+"You don't say so, Don Ernesto!" said his podgy, putty-faced little
+Highness. "Where was it? When was------ By heavens, somebody shall
+suffer for this! Just let me or any of my soldiers catch the thieves,
+and not one of them shall reach Santa Fé alive. Now, I'll tell you what.
+Just leave it to me, and don't you worry nor think any more about the
+matter, much less mention it to a soul. In less than two days I'll have
+the thief or thieves here in the stocks."
+
+I told him plainly that that was not my programme, and that, whatever he
+did, I was not going to leave that fence unpatrolled until I could move
+the stock out of the paddock.
+
+"Then this is what we'll do, Don Ernesto. You shall be one of us. You
+come and dine with me at six o'clock this evening, and afterwards we'll
+go out with the sergeant and five or six men and catch 'em."
+
+It was about the equinox, if I remember rightly--the springtime, when
+everything is lovely and lovable: the camp flowers all in bloom, the
+aroma of the trees burdening the air with delicious perfume, the fresh
+verdure and plenty of grass, the powerful, stout-hearted bounding of the
+horse (no longer "poor") beneath one, and, above all, the great issue
+expected of the business in hand, the most important business to me in
+the world at the time--all these combined spelled but one word, "Hope!"
+
+Carbine in hand, Colt in holster, I arrived at his residence. There he
+was, sitting at the door of his corner house, whence he could look down
+three streets at once. How like a spider, I thought.
+
+His welcome was cordial, but he seemed to smile at my eagerness, and
+told me that he never dined before eight.
+
+"But let us sit here in the cool of the evening," said he, handing out a
+chair for me to sit by him on the footpath, "and let us take some
+refreshment to while away the time. But, tell me, where did you say that
+the fence was cut? But did you really see signs that cattle had passed?
+Preposterous! The sons of guns shall suffer for this. Eh well, I'm glad
+of it in a way--glad to have a little work, and perhaps a little
+excitement. It doesn't do to have a too orderly district, for the
+Governor and his satellites in Santa Fé imagine I'm lazy and not looking
+after my business if they hear of no commotions. That black fellow you
+sent me the other day, Don Ernesto--the fellow that was molesting a mad
+woman in the camp--- I've got him seventeen years in the line for that.
+I wish you would send me a few more, for hardly a letter comes from
+Santa Fé in which I am not asked to send in recruits, so hard up are
+they for Provincial soldiers."
+
+Just then a poor Italian colonist came up, hat in hand. He, too, and all
+his class were pioneers in those days, and God knows what they suffered.
+
+"Well, what d'ye want?" asked my companion.
+
+"Sir," said the wretched man, stuttering in his nervousness, "one of my
+bullocks has been stolen, and I know the thief. I have been to the
+Justice of the Peace, and he told me to bring the thief to him; but,
+sir, the th-thief refuses to come."
+
+"_Bueno_! Ten dollars, and ten dollars _down_," roared the majesty of
+law.
+
+"But, sir,----"
+
+"No! But me no buts! Ten dollars at once, or I'll call the sergeant to
+lock you up until you can get it."
+
+I could see that the poor fellow's heart was breaking as he drew the
+money from his pocket and handed it over. Smilingly the bully turned to
+me and said, as his victim walked slowly away, "I'll bet you that that
+man doesn't come around to molest me again. I'll guarantee to you, Don
+Ernesto, that there isn't a district in the whole province where so few
+appeals for justice are made."
+
+At last it was dinner-time, and, being ushered into a dirty room with a
+brick floor, dim light and grimy tablecloth, I seated myself at the
+table with my host, his secretary, the doctor, and a clerk. The dinner
+was in the usual native style of those days: ribs of beef roasted on
+the gridiron, beef and pumpkin boiled together, to finish up with
+"caldo," which is simply the water in which the beef and vegetables have
+been boiled, with a good thick coating of grease.
+
+No sooner had we begun dinner than it was noticed that we had no wine.
+
+"No wine! How's this? What d'ye mean?" as he angrily turned to the
+sergeant who was waiting.
+
+"If you please, sir, So-and-so and So-and-so," mentioning the name of a
+local firm of storekeepers, "say that they can supply no more wine until
+they can get some of their accounts settled."
+
+"How dare you bring me such a message as that! Take the corporal with a
+couple of men and bring a half-barrel at once--in less than three
+minutes, or I'll know the reason why."
+
+The barrel was brought, and, with a bit and brace, quickly tapped, and
+the wine set flowing round the table.
+
+The dinner dragged on and on, until I thought he meant us to sit there
+all night. Ten o'clock came, half-past, and then eleven. Then I began to
+smell a rat. I kept on urging the necessity for action, but it became
+more and more evident that the Chief was fooling. He pressed wine upon
+all and upon me in particular, while he drank little himself, although
+he pretended otherwise. At last, I could stand it no longer, and got up
+in no very good humour to go.
+
+"No, but stop, Don Ernesto! Where are you going? Sit down again. The
+horses are not saddled yet: not even caught up. Sit down and have
+patience and we'll all go with you in good time."
+
+It was after twelve when at last we made a start. There were the Chief,
+the sergeant, a corporal, four men, and myself. We rode slowly in a
+northerly direction until we came to a small gate in the fence, of which
+I had the key. All the way thither the Chief, while commending me for my
+forethought in bringing arms, had been impressing upon me the importance
+of not using them, no matter what happened, "Because, you see, you are
+not an arm of the law, and if you were to shoot anyone, I should be
+obliged to arrest you and send you to Santa Fé."
+
+When we got through the fence, what was my surprise when the Chief said,
+"Bueno, Don Ernesto, you and I have had a long day. What I propose is
+that you and I off-saddle and doss down here, while the sergeant and men
+patrol with muffled bits and spurs at a short distance from the fence.
+Then the moment they hear anything they can come and let us know!"
+
+In vain I protested that this was not my idea at all, and that I too
+wanted to do the patrolling, but when he told a man to take the saddle
+off my horse and shake down a bed for me, I thought it wiser to
+acquiesce, or, at least, appear to do so. I shall never forget that
+night. How we talked and talked and talked as we lay beneath the
+brilliant stars, I, boiling with rage and anxiety under my assumed
+tranquillity, while he, doubtless, was as much annoyed at having to keep
+me in conversation. It must have been nearly four o'clock when I told
+him that I really must sleep. "Bueno," said he, as he rolled over on his
+side, "hasta mañana."
+
+In five minutes he was snoring. Even so, I did not dare to move, for
+fear that he might be foxing. About an hour passed, during which he
+moved, coughed, expectorated, and had other signs of conscious
+animation, much to my disgust, until at last I thought the snoring
+sounded too genuine to be shammed, so I crept towards him and whispered
+in his ear that I thought I heard sounds of movement. But his snoring
+was rhythmic and swinish, so I gathered up my saddle and gear and stole
+over to my horse, which was picketed some yards off, and proceeded to
+saddle him up. In doing so, my stirrups somehow clashed and thought it
+was all up, for what a fool I should look if he woke and discovered me.
+But it was all right: the music continued.
+
+I led the horse for some little distance, then mounting, I rode him down
+alongside the fence for about a mile until I came to a fresh gap in it.
+
+Horror! Even though it was but what my suspicions had depicted, the
+realisation came as a shock to me. "The--! The--!" To repeat my
+expressions would edify no one.
+
+Guided by the signal-lights at the station, I moved along at a smart
+trot and soon recognised the quick tramping of animals ahead. Then I
+drew back, and as the day was just breaking, I drew round to the west
+side of the cavalcade, so that I might see without being seen. Yes, sure
+enough, there were six military chacots outlined against the great sky
+and a troop of animals ahead of them.
+
+I halted to let them get well away from me, and then, with rage and
+hatred in my heart, swearing vengeance all the while, I galloped as hard
+as ever I could to the estancia, to impatiently await the uprising of my
+boss.
+
+"We must wire, or one of us must go to the Governor in Santa Fé at
+once," I urged. But what was my disgust to be met with but a quiet smile
+of amusement!
+
+"Not if I know it," said he. "Why, good God, man, do you want to have
+all our throats cut? This man is a personal friend of the Governor's,
+and what satisfaction do you think we are likely to get out of that?"
+
+"Then let us go to the Consul, the British Minister, or even to the
+President of the Republic?"
+
+A quiet smile with a negatory shake of the head was the only answer.
+
+A fortnight later I sought him in his private sitting-room and found the
+Chief of Police sitting in an easy-chair.
+
+"Ha! ha! ha! Don Ernesto. So you caught us, did you? Well, it was worth
+the fun. I never laughed so much in all my life as when I awoke that
+morning and found that you had given me the slip!"
+
+
+
+
+A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO.
+
+
+After three years on an estancia in the vast monotonous, treeless, but
+most fertile plains of the Central Argentine, under scorching sun,
+driving rains, and biting wind, one feels that one would like to see a
+river sometimes, animal life and more congenial surroundings; and so I
+determined to visit the Northern Chaco, that enormous tract of land
+which lies North of Santa Fé and stretches right away for many hundreds
+of miles to North, East, and West.
+
+Leaving Rosario by the night express, one crosses the great, slightly
+undulating plains, probably among the richest in the world for the
+growth of wheat, linseed, and maize, reaching Santa Fé early the
+following morning. This town, the capital and Government centre of the
+province, is rather an uninteresting place; chiefly noticeable in it are
+the great number of fine churches and the magnificent sawmills owned by
+a large French company. Santa Fé is supposed to be one of the most
+religious centres in the Republic. More than once it has almost been
+washed away in an eddy of the giant Parana in flood, the water rising
+four feet in the houses on the highest level in the town.
+
+After spending a day of sight-seeing in Santa Fé, we embarked at
+nightfall for Vera, the headquarters of the Santa Fé Land Company's wood
+department, arriving there in the early morning. The land around here
+from the train appears to be a dry, salty country, devoid of herbage,
+and only valuable on account of the excellent forest trees and timber.
+
+Our morning meal was taken in the station waiting-room (the only
+restaurant in the town), and consisted of cold coffee and what the
+Argentine understands by boiled eggs, which have in reality been in
+boiling water half a minute, and which, in order to eat, one has to tip
+into a wine-glass and beat up with a fork, adding pepper and salt, etc.
+This is the general way of eating eggs in South America; an egg cup is
+one of the few things one cannot get in the country without going to an
+English store in Buenos Aires.
+
+Leaving Vera at 8 a.m. the train goes at a snail's pace along the branch
+line to Reconquista, covering the distance of about thirty leagues in
+five hours. Arriving there in the sweltering midday heat, we were met by
+an English friend and his capataz, the latter dressed in his enormous
+slouch hat, deerskin apron, and silver spurs weighing probably a full
+kilo.
+
+One cannot help noticing at once the different type of natives; from the
+slow, slouching, don't-care kind of men, which one sees in Cordoba and
+Southern Santa Fé, to the quick, straight, hawk-eyed half-Indian
+Chaquenos.
+
+Reconquista on a hot summer's day is one of the dirtiest places on this
+earth, which is saying a good deal. One drives through streets two feet
+deep in light sandy dust, which hangs in clouds all over the town. There
+is an excellent hotel in the centre of the town, built on typical
+Spanish plans with fine large open patios, which are filled with
+splendid tropical plants and ferns. Having washed off the dust of three
+days' travel from our weary persons, and having changed into more
+suitable travelling gear, we sat down to an excellent spread.
+
+In the cool of the evening we made a tour of the town, being most
+interested in the cigar factories, where we bought excellent smokes for
+$2 a hundred, all hand-made from pure tobacco leaf by the brown-hued
+lasses of Reconquista.
+
+The rest of the evening we spent in unpacking our native saddles, and
+preparing everything for our long horseback journey--not having
+forgotten to see that our tropilla of fifteen grey ponies were fit and
+ready to make an early start next morning.
+
+Three a.m. next morning found us out in the "corrales" having our ponies
+allotted to us by the capataz--we found the tropilla on "ronda"--that
+is, in a corner with a lasso tied across in front of them, the height of
+their chests, and all facing outwards. This is the most general way of
+teaching horses to stand in the Chaco, as, if taught to stand singly,
+they would fall too easy a prey to the Indians and gauchos. In order to
+saddle these ponies we had to "manear" them, that is, tie their forelegs
+together, for without this they refused to let us put the blankets on
+their backs.
+
+All being ready, we started off, four of us, two in front and two
+behind, with eleven loose ponies between us. By this time the sky was
+beginning to grow light, and evidently the fresh morning air had
+disagreed with my friend T.'s horse, which suddenly cleared down a side
+street with his head between his forelegs and his back arched like the
+bend in an archer's bow.
+
+After some seconds of this amusing sight T. managed to get the pony's
+head up and came along again, looking very warm and beaming; his
+pink-nosed pony quite satisfied that he would have to carry more than
+his own weight for some distance further.
+
+Leaving Reconquista on the north we crossed, over an old railway
+embankment, a large stretch of low country, through which a small stream
+glided with winding course, and jogging along league after league we
+gradually got into more interesting country: little clumps of trees with
+very thick undergrowth, clinging creepers, bright-coloured flowers, and
+gorgeously plumaged birds.
+
+All along the sides of the roads were little farms, apparently
+uncultivated, except for small patches of wonderfully grown maize and
+browning linseed. Practically all these farms are owned by Swiss and
+German peasants, each one with his small herd of cows and working
+bullocks.
+
+We changed our ponies every three or four leagues, always going at the
+same jog-trot, stopping occasionally at a wayside inn to wet our parched
+throats with fresh well water (with a drop of caña in it to kill the
+microbes), and smoking hard all the time to keep off the swarms of
+mosquitoes.
+
+After travelling ten leagues or so we began to leave these habitations
+behind us, and got into wilder country with no fences, only long
+stretches of undulating land, dotted with patches of splendid-looking
+trees and enticing shade.
+
+The road occasionally crossed small streams, which gradually became more
+tropical looking, until we came to quite a large river, two or three
+hundred metres wide, looking beautifully peaceful and oily. Standing
+above on the bank, in the shade of some magnificent quebracho trees, we
+looked down upon this lazy stretch of perfect scenery, when suddenly
+there was a slight disturbance in the water and a small black dot
+appeared on the top of the water. The capataz at once pulled out his
+revolver, all of us doing likewise, only to have to put them back again,
+as the dot had disappeared as quickly as it came. This was the first
+sign of wild animal life we saw, the "jacaré" or alligator. In the more
+civilised parts of the Chaco, these animals, as well as the carpincho or
+water-hog, are getting quite rare, and having been so much shot at and
+worried they need the most careful stalking.
+
+As we got further away, we came upon many more of these streams, all
+looking much the same; some had bridges over them made of quebracho
+logs, laid endways on and covered with earth, very dangerous to cross
+after wet weather or floods, especially at night, as they are generally
+full of holes where the earth has fallen in.
+
+At 10 a.m. each day we unsaddled for lunch, which was generally composed
+of "charque" or salted beef, biscuits, and coffee. The first night we
+slept at the last habitation which we saw, a small wayside inn. Arriving
+there late in the evening, we had the greatest difficulty in obtaining
+entrance on account of the chorus of barking, snapping dogs, and on
+account of the innkeeper's fear of drunken gauchos.
+
+Another early start on the second day saw us well on our journey by
+siésta time, which we spent on the edge of a very fine forest. The
+afternoon was very hot, and we did not start off again until 4 o'clock.
+During the evening we swam across a small river which we found
+overflowing its banks on account of the local rains, and, as darkness
+fell, we found it almost impossible to see our way on account of the
+fireflies, which made such a glare in front of us that the slight track
+which we had been following was almost invisible. It was a very dark
+night, and once or twice we felt rain. We had to go very slowly, so that
+we should not miss the track. Thus we trotted on in Indian file, each of
+us now leading spare horses, in silence, except when one of us asked how
+many leagues it was to the estancia, only to jog on again for what
+seemed two or three hours, until almost midnight. With a cheerful yell
+we suddenly came on a barbed wire fence, and after hunting about for a
+time, a wire gate.
+
+Immediately tongues seemed to be mechanically loosened and the
+conversation flowed freely, discussing the ride, horses, coming
+stiffness, and all the things that one has to talk about after two and
+a-half days in the saddle. On reaching the estancia about 2 a.m., none
+of us needed much bed, and throwing our things down on the grass
+outside, we soon were dreaming of alligators, broken bridges, swimming
+rivers, etc.
+
+About 10 o'clock the next morning I awoke to find myself on a most neat
+little estancia high up on a hill, overlooking, across a slight valley,
+magnificent forests where one could see the glint of running water.
+
+The house was brick floored and had four very nice rooms, which had been
+colour-washed by my friends with excellent success. The ceilings at once
+attracted attention, being of a deep-coloured black wood, well oiled and
+seasoned. "Timbo" it is called, and is the best carving and furniture
+wood in the country.
+
+Out in the garden were oranges, lemons, citrons, pomegranates, limes,
+and all kinds of luxurious fruits and vegetables. In a small fenced
+paddock at the end of the garden, were sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, cotton,
+tobacco, and some magnificent maize.
+
+The men's huts were made of mud over a cane network, and the roofs were
+made of split palm trees, hollowed out and made in the form of a large
+~~~~~~~ the palms being placed concavely and convexly alternately,
+making fine drainage for the heavy rains. The whole place was surrounded
+by a ring of fine chaco paraiso trees and "ombu." The horse corrals were
+all _palo a pique_, that is, made of solid posts, stuck in close
+together side by side, and about two metres high, with no wire.
+
+The camp was more or less on the real banks of the Parana, sloping away
+to the river four leagues away, and forming one of the most fertile
+spots in the Republic. This low-lying land is the finest and cheapest
+grazing in the north, but it is unreliable because it is quite inundated
+in time of floods, when the cattle have to be withdrawn to higher camp.
+
+During various excursions on the following days we saw tracks of
+"tigers" (leopard) and "lions" (puma); the kill of the latter, a small
+gazelle buck, "guasuncho," we found neatly covered up with grass and
+leaves, and easily distinguishable from the tiger's kill, which is
+always left uncovered. A very fine tiger's skin was brought in one
+night, measuring 1.84 metres from the tip of the nose to the root of the
+tail, and 1.56 metres across. The man had suddenly come across it while
+on foot in the monte, and after wounding it with his Winchester had run
+it down with his dogs and killed it.
+
+One evening we caught sight of a tapi (tapir) coming down to drink, but
+were unable to shoot on account of the bad light. Each day we saw many
+wild pigs ("chancho moro") and various kinds of wild cats, including the
+splendid "gato once" or ounce cat, whose skin is one of the finest, and
+only to be compared with the "lobo" or golden otter, which has a most
+magnificent fluffy pelt with a golden tint on the tips. The latter is
+unfortunately getting very rare now.
+
+The great wolf or "aguaras" is still common, and is a very stately
+beast, as he slopes along with his hind-quarters well under him, with
+pricked ears and shaggy black mane.
+
+The forests here are mostly in long strips and clumps, with excellent
+pasture land between them; and they contain, among other commoner chaco
+trees, lance wood, four crowns, and tala. Amongst the strange trees
+there is one enormous broad-leafed tree called "guapoij," which has long
+creeping roots, which cling on to neighbouring trees and gradually pull
+them down and absorb all their goodness, killing them, and in some
+marvellous way apparently eating them up. One finds occasionally one of
+these trees embracing another bigger than itself, and gradually rooting
+it out of the ground.
+
+On all low ground one generally finds "Zeibos"--a tree with very soft
+wood and very pretty branches of scarlet flowers.
+
+The wild apricot or "ijguajay" grows everywhere, and looks a very
+tempting fruit, fatal, however, to most Europeans, as it is a very
+powerful purge. The Indian children eat the fruit with joy, and it
+apparently has no bad effect on them.
+
+The forests are full of all kinds of animals, and, in addition to those
+already mentioned, there are red deer, black and brown monkeys, and
+bear, and the ring-tailed coons, which latter make noises like the
+grunting of pigs.
+
+Of ground game there are foxes, tattoo or mulita, armadillo, and
+ostriches.
+
+Amongst the birds the most common are various kinds of hawks, including
+some very much like the great bustard, English brown buzzard, and osprey
+falcon, and two or three kinds of parrots and cockatoos, the green
+parrots being the curse to agriculturists, eating all the maize, as the
+locusts do in the South.
+
+There are many different kinds of "carpinteros" or woodpeckers, most of
+them having most wonderful plumage of brown, green, scarlet, blue, and
+yellow.
+
+A strange bird which is not often seen is the "tucan," a small black
+bird, with a beak almost as big as his body, and of a splendid orange
+colour with a scarlet tip; he is a top-heavy looking little chap when
+seen seated on an orange tree, his favourite haunt.
+
+Amongst table birds there are grey pheasants, martinetta, and
+partridges. Of wild fowl, there are enormous varieties, including the
+"pato real" or great tree duck, whistling mallard, various kinds of teal
+and shovellers, widgeon, muscony and hooded duck, black-headed geese,
+grey geese, and swans. Amongst water-birds are the black, grey, and
+white "garza" or heron. The latter are especially valuable on account of
+the splendid feathers on the back of their necks. Of the smaller birds
+there is the gallinetta, a kind of landrail, the curse of hunters
+shooting wild duck, their wretched screech warning every bird in the
+district. The beautifully coloured and almost transparently winged
+golden moorhen covers every stretch of water inland, and the "chaja" or
+wild turkey, one of the most useless birds in the Chaco, and quite
+uneatable, sends forth his dismal cry "chaja."
+
+The kingfishers are, perhaps, the most noticeable of all the river
+birds, and are of all sizes, from the small European variety to one
+almost ten times their size. Gorgeously plumaged, they skim, like
+flashes of light, over the water, which is full of all kinds of fish
+including "Dorado," a splendid fighting fish, excellent eating, which
+can be caught with rod or fly, and goes up to 10 kilos in weight;
+"Suravi," a great mud fish, which is seen sometimes basking out of
+water, weighing up to 50 kilos, with enormous head, and good eating;
+"Savala," the mud-eating cruiser, which one sees nearly always with its
+tail out of water, and which makes excellent revolver shooting;
+"Palmieta," the curse of the Chaco streams and rivers, making bathing
+unadvisable on account of its hostile assaults on the extremities of all
+foreign bodies; and the "rallo," or sun fish, a large flat fish with a
+long tail.
+
+Thus was spent a week of happy days of excursions and explorations,
+where sometimes we had to walk through great distances of undergrowth
+and the everywhere-abundant prickly cactus, cutting our way with large
+cavalry swords, always with our eyes skinned to catch sight of some
+strange bird, beast, or flower. Sometimes we waded for miles through
+swamps, which, in some places, abound with enormous water snakes up to 6
+metres long.
+
+We put up all kinds of water-fowl, as we struggled on, splashing
+through rivers, clambering up and skeltering down slippery banks,
+reaching home tired and weary every night to recount all the day's
+doings, sitting out in the patio in the cool evening, eaten up by
+mosquitoes.
+
+So ended my holiday, with hurried packing, much toast-drinking, and a
+final little farewell dance to the accompaniment of guitar, gramophone,
+mouth-organ, and accordion. The journey south was of no great interest,
+half on horseback, half in "galera," or public mail coach, with, as
+fellow passengers, a German traveller, a curé (most jovial of beings,
+who had brought enough food with him to feed a whole regiment), a head
+of police and his men, and two coach boys.
+
+The coach, with five young horses tied in abreast, went bumping and
+jolting along hour after hour, until we came to a big river,
+unfortunately in flood. The horses were unhitched, tied together and
+swum across; a boat coming from some unseen corner, took passengers and
+luggage across, leaving the coach itself alone, with a long wire tied to
+the end of the pole. The horses were fastened to the end of this wire on
+the other side of the river, and then, with a whoop and a cheer, the
+coach tumbled head-over-heels into the raging flood, twisting and
+turning in all ways, first one side up and then the other, until at last
+it reached the near bank. And so we travelled on, back to civilisation;
+a tiring journey in dust and heat by rail, bringing us home to the same
+old flat, treeless, priceless plains of the Central Argentine, to dream
+for many days of birds, fishes, animals, flowers, trees, good friends,
+and the fine natives of the Northern Chaco.
+
+
+
+
+WORK IN THE WOODS.
+
+
+
+
+WORK IN THE WOODS.
+
+
+The worker in the forests is of necessity an early riser, the nature of
+his task requiring that he should be up betimes. His preparations for
+breakfast are simple, and he is ready to start out after half an hour
+spent in imbibing a few matés full of yerba infusion. The cartmen tie in
+their bullocks, kept overnight in a corral, and drive off to bring in
+wood prepared by the axemen, the bullock-herd takes his charges to
+pasture and the men's employer mounts his horse to visit the camp of his
+axemen, or goes to the store to fetch meat and provisions. The axemen
+generally live in tents or temporary shelters, convenient to their work,
+and some distance from the contractor's rancho. They have to work hard,
+stripped to the waist in summer; they fell the trees, and either square
+the logs for baulks and sleepers, or cut the bark and outside layer of
+white wood off to make logs for export, working by moonlight when the
+heat of the day is excessive. Their food consists of biscuits, called
+Galleta, dried to the consistency of flint; these they soften in soup
+made from fresh meat or dried "Charki." To this soup is added rice,
+maize, or "Fido's," which is coarse macaroni.
+
+The favourite roast, called the "Asado," is made from ribs of beef
+impaled on a stick and placed near the fire till sufficiently cooked.
+This delicacy, usually as hard as nails, is enjoyed by the men, who cut
+off portions, which they hold in their teeth, while, with a jack-knife,
+mouthfuls are sawn off close to the nose, at the risk of shortening that
+organ. Water is drunk, or coffee sweetened liberally with moist sugar.
+This coffee is made in the country, chiefly from beans or maize, with a
+large percentage of chicory to give it body.
+
+It is picturesque to see a long string of carts enter a deposit to the
+sound of pistol cracks from long whips, and to watch the cartmen unload
+the heavy logs.
+
+A cartman will load his cart with logs of a ton and upwards, each with
+the aid of his team of bullocks, placing the chains so that the animals,
+at the desired moment, by advancing a short distance, roll the log from
+the ground on to the cart. In the case of very heavy logs the cart is
+placed upside down on the log, which is then bound to it, and the
+bullocks pull the whole thing over. The distances which have to be
+covered by these carts are considerable, fifteen miles in the day is not
+unusual, changing bullocks once en route, but a great deal depends on
+the roads being dry, as in wet weather the wheels sink up to the hubs in
+the mud and the roads are soon dotted here and there with loads
+abandoned till better conditions enable them to be reloaded and
+delivered at a depository.
+
+These cartmen are hardy fellows and work wet to the skin, covered with
+mud up to their knees, or, again, hidden in the dust from the roads,
+which envelopes the moving carts in a choking cloud.
+
+It is little to be wondered at if the axemen and cartmen, when pay day
+arrives, go in for a spree, which for them usually takes the form of
+gambling, enlivened by dancing and drinking till daylight.
+
+The result of sojourning in the woods does not, as might be expected,
+have the effect of making these men unsociable, and they embrace every
+opportunity of attending a race meeting or dance. When the men are
+excited by drink quarrels are frequent, and the police search them for
+arms before admitting them to a Re-union.
+
+Arms are carried ostensibly as a precaution against meeting with
+Indians and bad characters in the lonely recesses of the forest, and the
+men like to carry a knife and a good revolver, or, better still, a
+Winchester, to enable them to get a shot at any wild animal they may
+come across, the skins of these being much prized. They take a pleasure
+in presenting a visitor with a puma skin or other trophy of the chase.
+
+Among these people one looks for, and finds, the primitive idea of
+hospitality, an unaffected welcome and willingness to give of the best
+they have. Here are men independent by virtue of their labour, which
+gives them sufficient for their daily wants. They have no thought for
+the morrow or what will be their lot when too feeble to work.
+
+The axemen, who are natives of Italy and Austria, are very good workmen,
+but compare unfavourably with natives of the country, being extremely
+dirty in their persons, to such a degree that it is a disagreeable
+experience to have to interview them in an office, whereas the Argentine
+native puts on his best apparel when he goes to an estancia.
+
+The forest workers are nomads, and, as the woods get cut out, move on to
+fresh camping grounds, leaving the woods to revert to their former
+solitude, a haunt for the wild animals, who creep back once silence has
+returned.
+
+
+
+
+CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS.
+
+
+
+
+CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS.
+
+
+To a man coming from the Southern Camps to the forest belt of Santa Fé,
+the cachapé must appeal as something peculiar to the district, and most
+essentially local. He has had a surfeit of carts with two wheels, each
+12 feet high, and dragged by anything from sixteen to twenty-eight
+horses; Russian carts, like Thames punts on four wheels, no longer amuse
+him, while American spring carts are much too European to warrant
+unslinging the Kodak. But the cachapé--here is something not to be
+lightly passed over. Lying idle it may not strike him at first sight as
+a cart, but rather as a remnant of some revolution, when, tired of
+waging light operatic war, the army disbanded, leaving their
+gun-carriages to serve more peaceful purposes.
+
+Two pairs of short, squat, enormously powerful wheels; between, and
+joining them, a roughly hewn pole and various chains in an apparently
+hopeless tangle. Yet see them in work--every niche doing its work, every
+chain taking ten per cent, more strain than it was ever intended to
+take, creaking, groaning, crashing into holes, crawling laboriously over
+snaps and trunks to fall again with its load of four tons with a
+jerking, swaying, and straining as though struggling to free itself from
+its load, and you recognise the _raison d'être_ of the queer little
+cart.
+
+The capaché is not without its humorous moments. Supposing the cartmen
+find a log too heavy to load in the ordinary way; they do not return and
+inform the boss that the log must be hoisted by mechanical means or
+propose high-priced cranes. Seeing that obviously they can't put the log
+on the cart, they accept the alternative and put the cart on the log,
+chain it on securely, then haul everything right side up again with the
+bullocks and proceed to the unloading station. Once there, it might be
+supposed that they would tumble the cart over again, but here the
+intelligent foreigner is misled. The correct proceeding now is for the
+cartmen to lie on their backs and push with their feet, after the manner
+of the gentlemen in music halls, who, reclining on sawed-off sofas,
+twiddle gold-spangled spheres with their toes; only our cartmen lie in
+water and mud and the gold-spangled sphere is changed for a three-ton
+log. The force the men can exert in this position is little short of
+marvellous. Out one crawls, reviews the situation, then back again
+under, a creak, a combined push, and over the wheels comes the log,
+throwing up the mud and water for 50 feet around. Then back they go
+again for another load six miles through the forest. Wet through, their
+clothes hanging in ribbons from shoulders and belt, one day's mud caking
+on another's, and with a long sword stuck through their belt in front,
+they present a figure comical enough were it not that one knew the other
+side of the picture.
+
+Reeking with inherited consumption, they live the one life which is
+certain to kill them before they are forty. Wet through and chilled,
+they are called upon again and again to suddenly exert enormous
+strength, since no man can desert his cart. He must "get there." He must
+get out of his trouble. He eats largely when and how he can, and when he
+has saved any money the merry "Taba" bone charms it from him in a way
+too universal perhaps to call for any remark. Sometimes he finishes his
+carting days through too decided opinions as to the other man's
+integrity in playing "Taba"; sometimes on his canvas bed in a hut of mud
+and branches, his browny yellow face and sunken eyes asking no pity,
+betraying no emotion; in either case he is rarely over thirty-five and
+often leaves a wife and children.
+
+I say "wife and children," since it sounds the usual thing; but, as a
+matter of strict fact, the ceremony of getting married is deprecated
+among them, as it signifies "Putting on side," and is only resorted to
+when they are in a village and there is a chance that the presents that
+are given will more than compensate the tremendous expense they have to
+go to. Speaking to a gentleman of this kidney, I was informed that when
+the cross-eyed blacksmith Strike got married, it cost him three dollars
+and a-half (say 5s.) in fire crackers alone, and my informant went on to
+say that the only case he knew of where marriage had been really
+successful was that of the fair-haired carpenter, who was married and
+asked all the bosses on the place, who each gave something, with which
+he was able to buy a sewing machine for the eldest girl, then aged six.
+
+But, mark you, lest you should judge them lightly, remember that their
+unwritten pact is just as binding to them as our formal marriage tie is
+to us, and that in their way they are probably better husbands and
+fathers than your Balham clerk. In their young days they may chop and
+change, which changes are generally marked by little iron crosses in the
+woods, but, once they have settled down, desertion is far rarer than in
+civilised countries. I have seen a native workman with his shoulder
+blade in his arm-pit, his face cut to ribbons, and with pieces of
+casting sticking to his back through the carrying away of a crane, cavil
+against the idea of being taken into the township where the doctor was,
+lest his old woman, unused to a town life, should find the surroundings
+uncongenial. This in a broken, muttered whisper, twelve hours after the
+accident had happened, during which time every new arrival had been
+called upon to witness the peculiar nature of his injuries.
+
+Much has been said about the terrible wickedness of the lower-class
+native, his gambling, his immorality, his almost fanatical desire to
+murder everyone he sees; and for complete and detailed lists of crimes
+and monstrosities appeal to any newcomer, who will be delighted to hold
+forth on the subject; but when one has lived with them and worked with
+them under varying conditions, and has suffered in some degree what they
+suffer, one hesitates to condemn them offhand.
+
+Blackguards they are--but manly, humorous blackguards. Immoral, one must
+confess them to be, according to our lights, but even in England "Custom
+from time immemorial" is held as law.
+
+The vast majority will steal raw hide gear as a cat steals fish, but
+will not touch your money, much as in a community of young men property
+is common to all with the same exception. They will lie if scared, or
+rather will substitute for the truth something they think you would like
+to hear, and they will do as little work as you will let them.
+
+But, have a bad case of sickness in the house and ask a man to go out at
+midnight with the carriage to get the doctor, or to go on horseback on
+his own horse twenty miles for medicine, and he goes as quietly and
+pleasantly as though he were going about the most commonplace work. He
+expects no tip, no extra wage, nor is he lauded as a hero. He may have
+come down, horse and all, in the dark, but is happy if he has not
+smashed the bottle of medicine, and he resumes his work on return, just
+as if he hadn't been up all night riding at a hard canter over broken
+ground full of holes and snags.
+
+No, he is by no means an ideal worker, neither is he half so bad as he's
+painted, and I'd rather meet him in the next world than lots of men who
+boss him in this.
+
+
+
+
+MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.
+
+
+
+MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.
+
+
+Eighty square leagues of dense forest. One is inclined to feel a trifle
+small and overcome when this fraction of Mother Earth is put into one's
+hands (metaphorically), with orders to know all about it and to be able
+to answer all questions as to what is going on in it.
+
+The work is like most other occupations: not quite so romantic as it
+sounds at first, but as interesting as one cares to make it.
+
+One's main employment can best be illustrated by a leaf out of a mental
+diary.
+
+Fulano de Tal, axeman, wants credit for provisions at the almacen or
+general store--Has he sufficient wood cut to warrant it? It is the
+Mayor-domo's business to find out.
+
+With this end in view, he rides along "The Mangy" watercourse till he
+comes to the lowland of "The Blind Cow." The barking of half a dozen
+mongrel curs leads him into the edge of the forest, and he comes upon
+the residence of Fulano de Tal. The man has perhaps recently moved to
+this spot, and has not had time or energy to build himself a "rancho,"
+and therefore the homestead consists of about four yards of canvas
+stretched across the branch of a tree like the roof of a tent.
+
+Beneath this is a "New Home" sewing machine, a Brummagem bedstead, and a
+small trunk, made burglar-proof by innumerable bands and fastenings of
+bright tin, or even gilt wall-paper. Scattered around are the little
+Fulanos, in costumes varying from nothing to very little.
+
+Their mother ceases her cooking operations, wipes her hands on the
+nearest child's head, and invites the visitor to dismount.
+
+He answers that he is looking for her husband, and she directs him with
+a sweep of the hand which covers a quadrant of the compass and includes
+several square leagues of thick forest. Taking a likely track, however,
+he soon hears the ring of axe-strokes, and finds his man patiently
+chipping away at a felled tree, which is rapidly taking the form of a
+baulk, with the sides as smooth as if sawn.
+
+His horse is tied up near, and he takes the Mayor-domo through his
+"corte," showing him the wood prepared for the carters. Give him a
+chance and he will count every log twice (most likely he has already
+plastered mud over the marks which show the rotten patch in the wood,
+and is wondering whether he has cleared the black sufficiently off a
+piece of "campana" to persuade a reasonable man that it is really fresh
+wood).
+
+It is part of the inspector's stock in trade to know these and a myriad
+other tricks, too numerous to take separately.
+
+The typical axeman in the Santa Fé Chaco is more genuinely "childlike"
+than, and quite as "bland" as, the famous Celestial. He never quite
+grows up; he will spend his last dollar on a mouth-organ when he is
+forty, and give a wild war-whoop of delight as a stack of newly piled
+sleepers falls crashing to the ground.
+
+He loves sweets and the bright clothes which he wears with childish
+dignity on feast-days and holidays.
+
+His _amour propre_ is tremendous, and influences his code of honour to a
+great extent. The first ten commandments he will break most cheerfully,
+but the eleventh--"Thou shalt not be found out"--he respects to the best
+of his power.
+
+Stealing, for instance, he regards as a pastime, but call him a thief
+and you must be prepared for trouble. A perfect instance of this can be
+quoted in the case of an estanciero who found a peon wearing one of his
+shirts.
+
+[Illustration: _Square Quebracho Logs worked by the Axeman, showing
+Resin oozing therefrom._]
+
+"You are wearing my shirt," said the master. "No, Señor; I bought it in
+the store." "But you stole it from me," insisted the estanciero,
+pointing to the tab at the front, where his name was written in marking
+ink; "there is my name on it."
+
+The man, being quite illiterate, had not reckoned on such damning
+evidence, but he recovered himself and replied with dignity: "Very well,
+Señor; if it is yours, take it; _but don't call me a thief_."
+
+Honesty is with them, admittedly, a matter of degree. A man will always
+say if questioned about some small deficiency, "Do you think I would
+swindle you for a matter of two dollars?" or "Do you think I would risk
+my credit with the Company for the sake of _one_ calf?" To be honest in
+a case where a larger profit is involved is a height of integrity to
+which he does not even pretend. "I am going to be frank with you"--that
+is an expression which puts the wise man on his guard, for it is
+generally followed by a cascade of lies.
+
+Business must be done on a completely different basis to that which
+obtains in England. To return to our friend Fulano, for instance: he
+wishes perhaps to ask for an increase of fifty cents per ton on his
+wood, and introduces the subject by a short conversation about the
+points of his horse, passing on to the bad state of the bullocks and
+enlarging on the chance of a rainy winter. You have just decided that he
+has nothing more to say and are preparing to leave him, when he makes
+his request with as much circumlocution as possible. To have come
+straight to the point would have been contrary to all his ideas of
+correct procedure.
+
+I have heard two natives make one another's acquaintance with a bout of
+verbal sparring which an Englishman would obviate by a single sentence,
+such as "Good morning; Mr. Brown, I believe?" "Yes," the other would
+answer, and the business would be entered upon immediately.
+
+The Spanish blood, however, calls for some such dialogue as the
+following, which is taken from real life.
+
+_A._--"Good day."
+
+_B._--"Good day."
+
+_A._--"How are you, Señor?"
+
+_B._--"Very well, thank you, Señor; how are you?"
+
+_A._--"Very well, thank you."
+
+_B._--"I am glad."
+
+_A._--"Equally."
+
+_B._--"Don't mention it."
+
+_A._--"I am speaking to Mr. Juan Sosa?"
+
+_B._--"At your service."
+
+_A._--"At yours."
+
+_B._--"Equally."
+
+_A._--"It gives me great pleasure to know you."
+
+_B._--"Equally."
+
+They are flowery always, whether in greeting, praise, commendation, or
+in denunciation.
+
+In illustration of the last point, I once heard a cartman give vent to a
+quite Olympic challenge.
+
+His cart had stuck in a deep rut up to the axles, and he commenced
+operations by addressing his bullocks with tender words and soft names
+swiftly followed by lurid curses. This proving useless, he invoked
+higher powers, and called on his pet saints by name--"Help me, San
+Pedro, San Geronimo, Santa Lucia, San Juan." Still no result:--
+
+Then his patience failed entirely--"If you won't help me, San Pedro," he
+shouted, "come down and I'll fight you;" "Come down, San Juan, and I'll
+take you both on together."
+
+Still no reply.
+
+Taking his hat off he placed it on the ground, made the motion of
+clawing his guardians from the skies and placing them in his hat.
+
+"Stay there, San Geronimo; Stay there, San Juan; Stay there, San Marco."
+
+When his hat was full enough for his satisfaction he leapt into the air,
+came down on it with both feet, and continued to dance on it for about
+three minutes.
+
+Thus, for a real or imagined slight, the streak of black blood will show
+up and convert a friend into a relentless enemy.
+
+It is not surprising when one considers the lack of civilising
+influences which ought to be exerted from the top downwards, but which
+have no root in the highest power they know, which is the arm of the
+law. It might be interesting to note a few proofs of the corruption
+which exists among those who wield the local weapons of justice--among
+the commissaries, police, and justices of the peace.
+
+The Chief of Police of----, for instance, a town of only about 7,000
+inhabitants, refused £2,000 a year for the local gambling rights.
+
+Again, a gardener, whom I knew, was put in jail for being drunk and
+disorderly. On going to the place some time later I found the man still
+imprisoned. "Why," I asked, "for such a small offence"? "We found," was
+the answer, "that when sober he was such a good workman that we could
+not spare him from the job of cleaning the stables."
+
+On the other hand, a friend of mine was dissatisfied with the policeman
+he had, and sent the sergeant into the township to exchange him for
+another. The man returned with a particularly villainous-looking
+specimen, and when asked where he had got him, explained that the Chief
+of Police had told him to look among the prisoners for a suitable man,
+give him a uniform and take him.
+
+"I thought this was the best of them; but they all wanted to come," he
+concluded ingenuously.
+
+Another commissary in the north of this country flattered himself on his
+revolver-shooting, and used to perform the feat of shooting the hat off
+a man's head without hurting him. He was in the local bar one day when a
+peon entered with a brand new white hat; it was an opportunity not to be
+missed. Crack--and the man fell with a bullet through his temple instead
+of his hat.
+
+Did the Comisário stand stricken with remorse, or burst into
+self-reproach? No. He moved the body with the toe of his boot and
+remarked: "Carramba, I am getting a very poor shot nowadays."
+
+A story which was told me in the province of Rio Negro, and which was
+well vouched for, contained serio-comic elements of which I believe the
+perpetrator, whom I knew personally, quite capable.
+
+An old man who owned a considerable quantity of land, died intestate. A
+man who lived with him, Garcia by name, had no idea of letting the
+property go to distant unknown relations, and concocted the following
+plot (obviously with the connivance of the neighbouring Justice of the
+Peace, who was a friend of his).
+
+The law allows that a sane man "in articulo mortis," and past the power
+of speech, may make statements by signs: so when the Justice was
+summoned to the house, Garcia told him that the man was not yet dead,
+and wished to make his will.
+
+Garcia seated himself at the foot of the bed, while the Justice at the
+side addressed questions to the deceased on the following lines:--
+
+"Do you wish me to record your last will and testament?"
+
+The corpse nodded.
+
+"Do you wish your property to pass into your cousins' hands?"
+
+The head moved from side to side.
+
+"Do you intend to make Garcia your sole legatee?"
+
+The deceased nodded several times.
+
+Two witnesses were brought, and the business was settled with
+commendable promptitude.
+
+I think it was Garcia himself who explained, some time afterwards, that
+as the dead man wore a full beard and whiskers, it was easy enough to
+hide the strings passing from his ears and chin to the foot of the bed
+under the coverings.
+
+In this connection I have since heard that one of the legal ceremonies
+in a coroner's inquest in Central America is to solemnly ask the
+deceased who killed him.
+
+To return to the point, however; if such things exist among those in the
+highest positions of trust it is not surprising to find wholesale
+chicanery among the lower orders; that they realise their shortcomings
+is evidenced by the fact that if they wish to impress you with the truth
+of a statement, they add "palabra de Ingles," i.e., "on the word of an
+Englishman."
+
+Their Indian descent is answerable for a great deal, the white and black
+blood being so mixed that it is almost impossible to note the dividing
+line. Their dusky ancestors were blessed with an extremely limited
+intelligence, only being able to count up to four. The following
+incidents were related to me by an old estanciero. He once saw a
+trainload of Indian prisoners who had had oranges given them throwing
+the skins against the windows and showing great surprise when they fell
+inside.
+
+In another instance a woman came with her daughter to place her in
+domestic service at the estancia, and as the mother did all the talking,
+the estanciero's wife asked if the daughter could speak Spanish.
+
+"Oh, yes," answered the mother, "but she is barefoot, and would not
+presume to talk Spanish unless she had shoes on."
+
+This same girl at first insisted on turning up the carpet whenever she
+entered a room and walking along the boards at the side.
+
+I fear that I have given a black character to the people I work among,
+but there are lights as well as shades, and I have had many a weary
+hour's ride wiled away by the philosophy and anecdotes of some peon or
+small contractor, without mentioning the enjoyment of that hospitality
+which is a characteristic of the nation.
+
+Beside a camp fire, under the stars, while the maté pot passes from hand
+to hand, or when huddled under a horse cloth with the rain dousing the
+last embers, I have found the Correntino, or Santa Fecino, a cheery and
+uncomplaining companion, who compares well with the recently arrived
+Englishman, who, under the same circumstances, is generally sleepy or
+bad tempered.
+
+Treat him well and he will treat you well, but if it is necessary to
+chasten him for his soul's good, keep your hand a little nearer to your
+revolver than his is to his knife.
+
+DUST AND OTHER STORMS.
+
+
+
+
+
+DUST AND OTHER STORMS.
+
+
+Life in South America has many and varied experiences, though not so
+uncomfortably exciting perhaps to-day as they were, when more than three
+years seldom passed without a revolution of some kind, either national
+or provincial. The year 1893 was marked by two revolutions in Rosario,
+the first provincial and the second national, with perhaps little more
+than two months between them. It sounds terribly alarming to hear that a
+revolution has broken out, and pictures of the French Revolution
+immediately rise before one, but, fortunately, those of South American
+cities are not of that calibre; reports and rumours fly about of the
+terrible things that are going to be done, but these generally end in
+rumour, and after a few persons, those who have nothing to do with the
+movement, have been killed, probably by soldiers letting off their
+rifles up some street just on the chance of hitting something (often
+that at which they are _not_ aiming), the revolution fizzles out very
+quickly.
+
+In the second revolution of 1893 great excitement was caused in Rosario
+by a revolutionary gunboat being pursued by a Government boat and a
+naval battle (!) being fought on the river outside Rosario. These two
+boats blazed away at each other till the revolutionary gunboat was
+reduced to a wreck; the Government boat then threatened to turn its guns
+on Rosario unless the revolutionists capitulated. The town was given
+twenty-four hours to decide, and, after various disasters, including a
+terrible battle, had been threatened, as usual the revolution came to a
+sudden end, on this particular occasion owing to the revolutionist
+leader, D. Alem, committing suicide. That same year, 1893,
+distinguished itself by drawing to a close with three of the most
+terrible dust storms ever seen in a country that, after any lengthened
+period of dry weather, suffers from dust storms of a greater or lesser
+degree. The first of these occurred early in December, after many months
+of drought, on a brilliantly sunny afternoon. Standing at the front door
+of a house at Fisherton, a suburb about six miles from Rosario, we
+noticed right down in the S.W., on the horizon, great banks of
+grey-looking clouds, which, to our surprise, seemed to be rolling
+rapidly up the sky towards us. They had a most alarming appearance, for
+these masses of grey cloud approaching so rapidly seemed to portend a
+storm of terrible force. In less than twenty minutes from the time we
+first saw the clouds the afternoon had changed from brilliant sunshine
+to pitchy darkness. So rapidly had the darkness come on us that no one
+was prepared, and no matches or lights were forthcoming; so there we
+stood in a room in absolute darkness, no glimmer of light even revealing
+where the windows were situated in the room. Though all doors and
+windows were closely shut, we could feel the dust entering in clouds
+through the cracks, making it quite unpleasant breathing. When the storm
+caught us we had to stand and wait, I must own with some fear as to how
+it was going to end. Up to this time the storm had come up and fallen on
+us in total silence: now, after about ten minutes of pitch darkness, we
+could hear in the far distance the wind coming. It came up with cyclonic
+force, and then everything in the way of tins and buckets began to be
+blown in every direction, and the horses to gallop about neighing,
+evidently very much frightened. The wind was the forerunner of the rain,
+which gradually began to clear the air, though, of course, for some time
+it rained mud, much to the detriment of the houses, and to anyone
+unfortunate enough to be caught out of doors in the storm; indeed, one
+of our friends, who insisted on starting for the station just as the
+storm descended on us, was found crouching under his umbrella by one of
+the posts of the railway fence, with a face as black as a sweep's, and,
+by then, deeply repentant that he had started for the station against
+advice. Indeed, many caught out in camp by the storm lost their lives
+through falling into wells, and, in some cases, the river. But,
+fortunately, nowadays--principally, I fancy, owing to the larger area of
+country under cultivation--these dust storms do not recur.
+
+
+
+
+LOCUSTS.
+
+
+During the past century considerable study has been centred upon the
+life and habits of the locust, mainly from the desire to seek its
+subjugation and destruction, and, whilst much general biological
+information has been written upon the subject, there are things which we
+do not yet know about this insect or its habits. We do not know what
+precise influences cause their migration, nor do we know what is the
+exact length of life of the locust or its breeding power, or the precise
+locality in any country which may be defined as its permanent abode.
+Locusts are classified under the order of orthopterous insects of the
+family Acrydiidae, and are very closely related to grasshoppers.
+
+There are a large number of species, the differentiating features being
+more or less the form and sculpture of protorax, the size of the head,
+the length and size of the prosternal spine, the comparative length and
+size of the hind thighs and shanks, the amount and arrangement of the
+tegmina mottlings, the comparative length of wings, and the general
+build of the entire insect, which may be robust or fairly slender.
+
+A general description of the distinctive physical features of migratory
+locusts might be given as a strong, wild-looking head, a strong collar
+inside which the neck moves, powerful and peculiarly-formed legs
+attached to a short, strong, square trunk or thorax, four wings, two
+antennae or feelers, six legs, and a long segmentary abdomen. The ground
+colour of the locust is generally brownish, straw, or red, but its
+colour varies somewhat according to the particular season of the year
+or some other peculiar circumstance, but nothing certain is known as to
+what influences the shade of colour. Mere ground colour is immaterial
+and does not signify a new species.
+
+Besides having a pair of compound eyes which form so noticeable a
+feature in its head, there are three other simple little eyes, placed
+like shining dots at three angles of a triangle below the two feelers.
+
+The mouth, which is a fearful apparatus, consists of nine distinct and
+well-marked organs; an interior or upper lip, consisting of a plate
+deeply cleft and capable of opening enormously; two true jaws or
+powerful mandibles; and two pairs of jointed organs called (maxillary)
+palpi, and two lower jaws. The mandibles and jaws move laterally from
+right to left.
+
+The thorax or trunk consists really of three rings. To the first is
+attached the two front legs; to the second, the two middle legs and the
+first pair of wings, and to the third, the two hind legs and the second
+pair of posterior wings. Along the posterior margin is a well marked
+serrated (spinous) arrangement by means of which the locust adheres and
+grips forcibly. The trunk appears to be full of a fatty sort of
+substance.
+
+The abdomen consists of a number of horny segments which are joined
+together by an elastic membrane, a construction which enables the insect
+to extend its body several centimetres beyond its normal extent. It can
+also be increased in thickness.
+
+The front and middle feet of this insect are short and weak, but the
+length, strength, and formation of the hind legs enable it to take
+extraordinary leaps. A full-grown locust can jump seven or eight feet in
+height, whilst it is said to be able to leap more than 200 times the
+length of its body.
+
+The female is normally larger by 1/4 or 1/2 inch in length than the
+male, and has a rather thicker body.
+
+The average length of the migratory locust is from 2-1/2 to 3 inches and
+about 3/8 inch in thickness in the abdomen. Locusts generally lay their
+eggs in the spring, and the manner in which the females, having selected
+a favourable site, make an excavation in the earth for depositing their
+eggs is intensely interesting and wonderful.
+
+At the very extremity of the abdomen the female has two pairs of horny
+valves or hooks, each pair placed back to back with their points
+directed outwards, and arranged so that all four hooks can be brought
+with their points close together. By this means a sharp pointed lever is
+formed which can be turned around, evolved, and forked. With this
+apparatus she drills a small hole and by means of a series of muscular
+efforts and the continuing opening and closing of the valves provided
+with the formation of the abdomen, she actually bores to a depth of 6 to
+7 centimetres, or about 3 inches. Here she deposits her eggs--normally
+about eighty--regularly arranged in a long cylindrical mass and
+envelopes them in a spumous or sort of glutinous secretion, so that the
+whole are quite tapped up and level with the surface of the ground. This
+substance when dried is more or less impassable and affords protection
+to the eggs from the elements and secures an easy outlet to the surface
+for the young locust when hatched. The eggs resemble in shape grains of
+small rice and are about 1/4 inch long.
+
+The eggs hatch in from twenty-five to sixty days, usually about forty
+days, but the period may vary a little according to temperature,
+humidity, etc. The young locusts are known as "hoppers," in which stage
+they pass some forty-five or fifty days before arriving at the fully
+developed stage known as "fliers." To reach the "flying" or "migratory"
+stage they pass through six different states, changing the colour of
+their skin several times, gradually approaching to full growth, and
+finally growing wings.
+
+They have no quiescent stage, and whilst they are naturally yet
+incapable of flight, their locomotive powers are very considerable, and
+they are very destructive, for their voracity is great. Comparatively
+speaking, the flying locusts do less damage to the growing crops than
+the hoppers, who devour everything clean before them.
+
+It is interesting to state that the "hoppers" in the first stage are in
+length about 7 to 9 mm., or not quite one-third of an inch, and that the
+feelers have thirteen divisions, extending to twenty-seven divisions at
+full growth.
+
+During the cold weather they usually gather together in thousands,
+clinging closely to all kinds of vegetation and to each other. In this
+season the general rule seems to be that comparatively little food is
+taken of any kind. For the purpose of watching the development of their
+eggs, several hundred locusts have been opened during the winter months
+by entomologists, and invariably their cases have been found empty.
+
+Perhaps the most feasible suggestion as to the cause of their migratory
+impulse is that locusts naturally breed in dry sandy districts in which
+food is scarce, and are thus impelled to wander in order to procure the
+necessaries of life.
+
+The rate of travel varies according to circumstances. With an
+unfavourable wind, or little wind, they seldom travel more than five
+miles an hour. At other times, when the wind is favourable, they will
+cover fifteen to twenty miles per hour. When on the wing it is certain
+that a distance of 1,000 miles may, in particular cases, be taken as a
+moderate estimate of flight, and whilst, probably, it is often much
+less, it is sometimes much more. Their height of flight has been
+variously estimated at from forty to two hundred feet. "A dropping from
+the clouds" is a common expression used by observers when describing the
+apparition of a swarm.
+
+It will not be denied that the presence of locusts in force constitutes
+a terrible plague. They make their appearance in swarms and eat up
+everything. It is wellnigh impossible to estimate the number in a cloud
+of locusts, but some idea may be formed from the fact that when they are
+driven, as sometimes is the case in a storm, into the sea and drowned,
+so many are washed ashore, that it is said by one observer that their
+dead bodies formed a bank of nearly 40 miles long and 300 yards wide,
+and many feet in depth, and the stench from the corruption of their
+bodies proceeded 150 miles inland.
+
+When a swarm of locusts temporarily settles in a district, all
+vegetation rapidly disappears, and then hunger urges them on another
+stage. Such is their voracity that cannibalism amongst them has been
+asserted as an outcome of the failure of other kinds of food.
+
+Locusts have their natural enemies. Many birds greedily devour them, in
+fact a migratory swarm is usually followed by myriads of birds,
+especially sea gulls; they are often found 150 to 200 miles inland.
+Often a flock of gulls will clean up a "manga" of locusts; they devour
+them by thousands, and will then go to a neighbouring laguna, take a
+little water, and throw up all they have eaten, and at a given signal go
+off again to fill up with more locusts, only to repeat the operation
+time after time. Predatory insects of other orders also attack them,
+especially when in the unwinged state. They have still more deadly foes
+in parasites, some of which attack the fully developed locust, but the
+greater number adopt the more insidious method of attacking the eggs.
+
+Many inventions have been brought out with the object of exterminating
+the locusts, some of which, at least, have doubtless been partly
+successful, but determined and combined effort by the nation and land
+proprietors is imperative if the remedial and preventive measures
+proposed are to reap the success hoped for.
+
+The Agricultural Defence Department reports having spent $10,561,540 mn.
+from 1st January, 1909, to 31st May, 1910, in fighting the locusts. The
+total area invaded was 135,000,000 hectares (about 337,500,000 acres).
+
+From 1892 to date, and with what is required for the present year,
+$54,000,000 have been spent in combating locusts and like plagues to
+agriculture.
+
+
+
+
+CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.
+
+
+The life of a conscript is more agreeable than most people in the
+Argentine Republic imagine it to be, although it has its disadvantages
+as well as its advantages.
+
+Every year all over the Republic a drawing takes place, calling to arms,
+for a year in the Army or two in the Navy, Argentines who have attained
+the age of twenty-one. At an average 12,000 to 15,000 are called out
+every year and distributed in the different regiments, according to
+height; from 1.75 metres upwards to Cavalry, middle height to Infantry,
+and short men to Artillery.
+
+For eight months the troops are drilled daily, and at the end of this
+period a big manoeuvre is held in which every regiment has to take part.
+This manoeuvre is divided into two parts: in the month of September all
+troops pertaining to the I., II., and IV. Regions are mobilised, and in
+November those of the III. and V.
+
+The daily routine is as follows: At 4 a.m. at the call of a bugle all
+troops have to rise, and the roll is called over; at 4.30 a.m. coffee is
+served; at 5.0 every morning orders are given to saddle-up horses and
+arm, and they have to be ready to leave the barracks at 5.30 for morning
+drill on horseback or to go to the shooting range, according to the
+time-table; the drilling continues till 10 o'clock, at which hour the
+troops are due back at the barracks, having to go through a course of
+drilling on foot up till 11 o'clock.
+
+At 11 o'clock the troops have to turn out and clean and brush down their
+horses until 11.30, at which hour lunch is served out; after which they
+are allowed to do as they like (except leave the barracks) till 1.30
+p.m.; from 1.30 to 3 p.m. the troops are drilled on foot, and at 3 p.m.
+"Maté-cocido" is served out; at 3.30 they have to attend class until
+4.30 p.m., either on "Campaign Service," "Military Duties or Laws," or
+on the "Carabine or Sword"; every other day class is given on the
+different parts of a horse, and on how to look after and clean same.
+From 4.30 to 5.30 p.m. there is revision and cleaning of arms. At 5.30
+dinner is served out, after which those who have leave are allowed out
+until 10 p.m., or in some cases until 4 a.m. next morning.
+
+Those drawn for the Navy have to go through a preliminary course of
+training on shore before being sent on board the training ship
+"Sarmiento," which every two years leaves Buenos Aires for a trip round
+the world, occupying, on an average, eighteen months.
+
+There are certain allowances made for students, who at the age of
+nineteen are allowed to enlist in the 8th Cavalry, where they have to
+serve for three months. At the end of this period they are put through a
+very severe examination, and should they pass, are promoted to the grade
+of Sub-Lieutenant of the Reserve, having to serve for a month every year
+in a regiment allotted to them.
+
+The advantages of conscription are many. It brings half-breeds from all
+parts of the Republic in touch with civilization, it teaches them
+obedience, respect for their superiors, and, above all, how to shoot.
+After their year's service they leave the barracks knowing a good deal
+more about things in general than when they entered them.
+
+There is also the better class of lads to be considered. Conscription
+teaches them a few things also, viz., to knuckle down (which is a great
+failing of the Anglo-Argentines), and be made to do things which they
+have not been accustomed to, clean out stable, etc., and look after
+their equipment properly, as anything they may happen to lose is
+deducted from their wages, which are very small, $5 per month.
+
+The food in the Army is good and plentiful: there is coffee in the
+morning on rising, a mid-day meal and dinner, which are usually similar,
+consisting of soup and "puchero" (a national dish made of beef and
+vegetables boiled), and an occasional dish of "pulenta" (boiled maize).
+
+The general treatment in the barracks is good. There are cases of
+miscarriage of justice and ill-treatment, but these are rare. A
+conscript may have to suffer punishment although in the right, and is
+not allowed to protest his innocence against an officer until after he
+has completed his punishment.
+
+
+
+
+ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901.
+
+
+Recollections of a journey from the Peruvian port of Mollendo to the
+Bolivian interior, which the writer made in the year stated, are here
+transcribed. No rhetorical merit is claimed, facts only are related, and
+the compiler of the manuscript only hopes that his efforts may, in part
+at least, justify a cursory perusal, without exhausting the patience of
+the readers, or overtaxing their indulgence. These notes are transcribed
+nearly ten years after the trip was made, and any readers who may have
+visited Bolivia at a more recent date are requested to make allowance
+for such modifications or change of conditions of which they can be the
+only judges.
+
+I have crossed the Andes Chain in other places farther south, in Chile;
+but on this occasion I will confine my observations to the trip as
+headed.
+
+Mollendo is one of the worst ports on the Pacific coast, but is of some
+importance on account of the fact that the railway through Peru to Lake
+Titicaca starts here. All vessels have to lie at least half a mile from
+the land on account of the constant heavy swell, and the landing is
+always attended by a certain amount of danger, so much so that not
+infrequently passengers have to be "slung" on to the landing stage in
+baskets made for the purpose. Like most of the South American coast from
+Valparaiso northwards there is little or no vegetation, and the scenery
+is not of the kind generally associated with tropical climes, of which
+one reads so much. Sand dunes and waste meet the eye on all sides, and
+the traveller for the interior is generally glad when the railway
+journey commences.
+
+Of the country through which the railway takes one there is not much to
+be said, but the attention of the traveller is at once called to the
+marvellous ingenuity of the famous engineer Meiggs, who built the
+railway. Gradually rising as the coast recedes, the train reaches
+Arequipa, at an elevation of 7,500 feet, and distant from Mollendo about
+200 miles. Arequipa has about 45,000 inhabitants, and, while rather
+prettily situated in a small valley surrounded by high volcanoes, it
+does not have anything of particular interest to attract one. Moreover,
+it suffers frequently from earthquakes, which does not surprise one when
+you look at the giant volcano "El Misti," towering up to 18,000 feet, at
+no great distance off. The houses are all built with "vaulted"
+foundations, the better to resist the "earth-tremblings," but on this
+occasion I did not experience any shocks.
+
+Leaving Arequipa behind, the ascent continues until the highest point is
+reached at Crucero Alto, where a notice board indicates that we are now
+14,666 feet above sea level. It is before reaching this altitude that
+the wonderful enterprise of the engineer shows up. The line goes on
+winding and climbing, twisting back again but always ascending, for
+hours, until a point is reached where passengers, looking down from the
+carriage windows, may see right below them, only a few feet down, the
+actual railway track over which they have passed an hour before. At one
+place there are actually _three tracks visible,_ one right below the
+other, just like steps and stairs, and I believe there is nothing quite
+like it in Argentina. Leaving Crucero Alto the descent is very gradual
+until Puno is reached, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, but still at an
+altitude of 12,000 feet or more. I did not actually see the town, which
+is a short distance from the station, but went straight on board the
+"Coya," the steamer which was to ferry us across to Chililaya or Puerto
+Perez, on the Bolivian side of the immense lake.[F] The distance in this
+direction is about 110 miles, and the passage was made in ten hours,
+during the night, so that I had not on this occasion an opportunity of
+seeing the surrounding scenery.
+
+On another occasion I saw too much of it, as the steamer missed the
+canalized strip which extends several miles out from Puno, and we
+remained hard aground for thirty hours. We had over a hundred Japanese
+passengers--immigrants going to the rubber country--and all armed with
+huge revolvers; but as the food lasted out until we were relieved by
+another small steamer belonging to the railway company they were kept in
+good humour, and they gave no trouble at all. Before floating again
+about 100 tons of cargo had to be transhipped to the other steamer, and
+when we again got into the deep channel it was again transferred to the
+s.s. "Coya." This latter boat was about 150 feet long; it was quite a
+comfortable boat, and the food and bedding were decent, when you
+consider the part of the world you were in. The bill of fare and wine
+list contained many quaint delicacies, and I shall never forget how the
+printer of same spelt the word indicating Scotch wine (commonly known as
+whisky). He was quite phonetic from the Spanish point of view, and the
+word read "Güiscki," but it tasted all right.
+
+Landing at the Bolivian side of Puerto Perez, the immense plateau which
+covers all the centre of Bolivia stretches out on all sides landwards,
+until it meets the inner and higher range of the Cordilleras.
+
+La Paz, the then capital of Bolivia, on account of the fact that the
+President, General Pando, lived there, was our next objective point,
+and we found the old "Diligence Coach," drawn by eight horses, awaiting
+to convey us the forty-two miles across the plain. This part of the
+journey is most uninteresting, and the road was only fair. All along it
+is the same level, stony ground, entirely devoid of trees, and covered
+completely with large, round stones. These latter the Indians have to
+gather in heaps, and thus make some open patches for growing their
+potatoes and grain, which, with their "Chalona," or sheep dried in the
+sun, are their principal foodstuffs throughout the year. Besides, the
+surplus produce is conveyed to the larger towns on llamas, and there
+realised to the best advantage. It is a very interesting sight every
+Sunday morning to see the "market," and the curio hunter would just be
+in his element, as not only do the Indians bring in vegetables and
+fruits, but all sorts of native silver in quaint shapes, and ornaments
+made by the Indians themselves can be picked up very cheaply. The
+dresses of the Indian squaws are also very picturesque, and, as far as I
+can remember, red, green, and bright yellow were the dominating colours.
+But I am getting away from the main subject.
+
+Right ahead of us there is the gigantic Illimani, silent and majestic,
+with its perpetually white crown rising 22,000 feet above sea-level. One
+begins to wonder where La Paz can be, as the plain seems to extend right
+to the foot of the mountain. Keeping steadily on, however, the coach
+eventually arrives at the brink of a hitherto unnoticed hollow, and the
+scene that here awaits the traveller is magnificent in the extreme. To
+describe the view baffles my limited vocabulary. There you are looking
+down on the roofs of the houses in La Paz, which lies snugly 1,200 feet
+below you. It just seems that you could drop a stone on to them, so
+precipitate are the cliffs; but it is the enormous drop that deceives
+the eye, because, of the route over which the coach passes, six miles
+have yet to be traversed before getting into the town. I have seen La
+Paz from the top of the "Cuesta" both by day and night, and the latter
+effect, while losing much of its grandeur and magnificence, on account
+of the darkness, almost surpasses in beauty that of the daylight vision.
+The whole city is lit up by electricity, and it just seems as if one
+were gazing _down_ on another firmament, if such a thing can be
+imagined. I repeat, that to fully appreciate this special scenery words
+fail me.
+
+Allow me to transgress once more. On the first occasion that I reached
+the top of the entrance to La Paz it was under rather "sporting"
+circumstances, which, I think, I may be excused for interpolating here.
+I had come on horseback and _alone_ from the mining town of Coro Coro,
+sixty-six miles off, and it is a very hard and tiring journey. The
+elevation above the sea varies from about 14,000 feet to 12,000 feet at
+the La Paz end, and therefore great speed is impossible on account of
+the rarity of the air. Apparently I had journeyed too fast for my horse,
+as the poor animal died when I was still eighteen miles from La Paz.
+Here was a nice "kettle of fish." It was all right enough as long as
+daylight lasted, but when darkness overtook me I was fairly "in the
+soup." Not knowing the road, and there being nothing to guide me and no
+one to consult, I simply walked along slowly, hoping to strike up
+against some Indian settlement, and pass the night somehow or other. I
+trudged along for goodness knows how long until I eventually did hear
+some sounds indicating that at any rate I was nearing some encampment or
+habitation. I could hear what was supposed to be music, and in the dark
+made my way, as near as I could judge, in the direction of the sound,
+and in about half an hour my efforts were rewarded, as I had overtaken a
+band of roving Indians, all in fancy dress, playing funny reed
+instruments and dancing continuously as they travelled. They could not
+speak Spanish, but at that time I knew sufficient of their
+language--"Aymara," as it is called--and soon explained to them my
+position. I was allowed to accompany them, as I found they also were
+bound for La Paz, and soon became a lifelong friend of theirs when I
+produced a small bottle of whisky which I had with me. The experience
+was of a unique nature for a white man, but I must confess I rather
+appreciated the novelty than otherwise, and when I reached La Paz about
+1 a.m. I felt that I had had quite an adventure, which might easily have
+had a more sinister termination, had my Indian escort shown the other
+side of their nature. Well, to come back to our old coach, which I think
+I left at the top of the La Paz entrance, I resumed my seat and got into
+the city at mid-day. I put up at an excellent hotel, of which there were
+several, and at once bethought me of looking for work, as the balance in
+my bank (otherwise my pocket) did not warrant my looking upon my visit
+to La Paz as one of pleasure only. At the time I write of there was one
+solitary Britisher resident in La Paz, and he was a Scotchman like
+myself. This was before the railway from Oruro was built, and he was
+proprietor of the coaches that ran, once a week, from La Paz to the
+south; and I understood had quite a remunerative business. La Paz is a
+peculiarly situated city, as the reader may imagine from my description
+of its position. The streets are mostly hilly and steep, with the
+exception of one or two which run parallel to each other on both sides
+of the valley, at the foot of, and in the centre of which flows, the La
+Paz river. This it bridged in about half a dozen places for horse
+traffic, and while, for most of the year, there is scarcely any water in
+the river, when the snow melts it is converted into a veritable roaring
+torrent; and I happened to be present during one of the most serious
+accidents that had ever occurred from this cause.
+
+It had rained very copiously for some days, and the river had risen
+enormously--in fact higher than ever before recorded--and many were the
+predictions as to how the bridges would stand the weight of water. The
+usual sightseers were about, and, unfortunately, a large number of them
+paid the penalty with their lives. They had been duly warned that a
+certain bridge was dangerous and threatened to give way, but this
+evidently excited their curiosity all the more; at any rate, a crowd
+tried to cross, with the result that the bridge tumbled into the raging
+stream, carrying with it over 200 people, and many of them were
+drowned--the exact number was never known.
+
+Quite an important city is La Paz, and a large number of wealthy
+mine-owners reside there, drawing their incomes from rich tin mines in
+the neighbourhood. There are also numerous stores from which the wants
+of the distant population that reside in the rubber country are
+supplied. The larger proportion of the inhabitants are Indians, and I
+cannot help remarking that the Bolivian Indians, men and women, are
+about the ugliest type of human creatures I have yet seen. Besides, they
+are very illiterate, and it is estimated that, of the total population
+of Bolivia, only about 30 per cent. can read or write. In the south,
+Aymara is chiefly spoken; but further north, Quechua is the commoner
+language. I saw several bull fights in the bullring of which the town
+boasts, but they were so very disgusting that I refrain from nauseating
+my readers with details.
+
+The Cathedral was only half completed when I was there, and I understand
+is still in the same condition. I was forgetting to mention that there
+was no British Minister or Consul in La Paz, and the story goes that, at
+some previous period, a Bolivian President compelled the British
+official representative to ride round the plaza seated on a donkey, but
+with his face to the tail; the consequence being that the Prime Minister
+of Great Britain figuratively wiped Bolivia off the map. Anything which
+we required from the Diplomatic Service had to be obtained through the
+medium of the British Minister resident in Lima, in Peru. This may now
+be altered, but I am not aware of the fact. I remained several months in
+La Paz in the employment of a Bolivian magnate, but the remuneration not
+being commensurate with my ambitions, I eventually arranged to accompany
+the proprietor of a very large rubber forest on a trip to his properties
+on the higher reaches of the River Amazon, and hence my privilege of
+being able to offer you a perusal of my experiences across the inner
+ranges of the Cordillera mountains. His daughter also accompanied him,
+and, although the journey is a most uncomfortable one in more ways than
+one, she stood the fatigue of many days' riding on mule-back, over
+trails which did not deserve the name of roads, just about as well as
+any of the rest of us.
+
+For a trip of this kind many provisions have to be made, as very little
+indeed can be procured on the journey in the way of good food or
+lodging. We accordingly had to carry our beds and bedding, and in fact
+everything we could think of in the form of clothes, food, firearms,
+and, of course, the necessary accompaniment in liquid form. Most of our
+baggage and what we might not require at a moment's notice we sent on
+ahead with a day's anticipation, and eventually on the 20th May, 1901,
+our caravan departed from the then capital of Bolivia, at 8 a.m. Our
+conveyance, to start with, consisted of a coach drawn by four mules, and
+it took much longer to climb the steep "Cuesta" than it had taken us to
+descend on previous occasions already mentioned. However, our animals
+were good and in about an hour and a-half we reached the top of the
+hill, and I took what proved to be my last view of La Paz City.
+
+The journey for the first forty miles is over the same ground as I have
+already referred to, in the direction of Lake Titicaca, and there is
+nothing more to be said about it, beyond that we changed animals at a
+place called Ocomisto, this being simply a few Indian huts where there
+is always a supply of grain and water for the animals, and the ordinary
+country fare for the passing traveller. There was a long journey ahead
+of us, so we only remained during the time that was occupied in
+outspanning the tired mules and inspanning the fresh lot. At 1 o'clock
+we reached Machacamarca, another "tambo" or resting-place, and were very
+disgusted to find that our pack animals, which we had dispatched the day
+before, had got no farther than this point. Our desired destination for
+the night was the Indian town of Achicachi, twelve leagues off, but as
+it was now quite out of the question to think of travelling our baggage
+animals so far before night should overtake us, we had to change our
+plans and therefore directed our coach towards Guarina, another Indian
+town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but much nearer than Achicachi, and
+we eventually arrived there at 5 p.m., having covered, more or less,
+fifty miles since morning. The journey seemed longer, as the country is
+so much alike all along the route; but as the roads were fair,
+travelling was quite comfortable.
+
+Guarina is purely an Indian fishing village, and the only white people
+are the Bolivian half-caste authorities. As I have already stated, there
+are no hotels or even lodging-houses in these Indian towns, and ordinary
+travellers have just to hunt about until they find a place suitable to
+put beds for the night. However, as my friend was a "personage" in
+Bolivia, in other words, a man of position and power in political
+circles, we of course fared considerably better than we should otherwise
+have done had he not been with us; and we were invited to put up in the
+house of one of these men in authority. He did his best for us in their
+frugal way of living, and gave us a meal consisting of "Chairo," which
+is soup as black as coal, and made from frozen potatoes which are called
+"chuno." These are about the size of walnuts, hard and black, and have
+to be well soaked before cooking, and then they are not a savoury bite.
+The next plate consisted of "Chalona," already described as lean sheep
+dried in the sun, and which, generally speaking, is very repugnant in
+appearance, smell, and taste. Never mind, we were hungry and partook of
+whatever was brought along, until the "inner man" cried content! The
+meal, I may add, was washed down with a cheap "wine" distilled from
+cheaper raisins, but it was something wet, and for the time sufficed.
+
+Our pack animals arrived at Guarina about 7 p.m., and we very soon had
+our things unpacked and occupied our beds, knowing that a pretty early
+start would be made in the morning. The night passed uneventfully, and
+at daybreak we got under way, bound for Achicachi, about five leagues
+off. There is still a road for vehicles to this town, and keeping along
+the shores of Lake Titicaca, we reached this larger Indian town about 9
+a.m. The population was about 5,000 Indians, but it is a very
+uninteresting, bleak spot, and we only remained long enough to have a
+square meal, which we were again fortunate enough to have provided for
+us by the reigning magistrate. That over, we then dispatched our coach
+on its return journey to La Paz, and thought of our other means of
+transport for the forward journey. Good mules we had sent ahead, and
+were now awaiting us saddled and ready, and we at last got started on
+this the more arduous part of our journey inland. Our destination for
+the night was Gualata, a small holding belonging to my fellow-traveller,
+and we reached it at about 1 o'clock, having climbed probably 2,000 feet
+higher up the mountains. Cultivation of cereals and potatoes is carried
+on on a limited scale, owing to the altitude, and taking it all round,
+the house, although comfortable enough, was situated in about as bleak
+and bare a spot as it is pretty well possible to imagine.
+
+Nevertheless, it was peopled by about sixty Indians, who turned out in
+true Indian style in their beautifully coloured robes and making
+horrible discordant noises which were intended for music--all, of
+course, to show their appreciation of their "patron." Here, of course,
+we got all we required, and as there were any amount of fowls to be had,
+our bill-of-fare improved in accordance. There was nothing to do
+specially, and we did not feel inclined to move about much at this
+elevation above the sea, so we were quite pleased when bed-time came
+round, and without any ceremony each retired to their respective couches
+_on the floor_. Owing to excessive cold, however, sleep was out of the
+question, and it was a relief when day dawned on May 22nd. After
+refreshing ourselves with a cup of tea we set out for Sorata, distant
+about six leagues. Travelling was now much slower as the roads were very
+bad, and in some places very steep and covered with loose stones. This
+made the foothold bad for the mules, but we trusted to the useful
+animals entirely, letting them go along on a loose rein to choose their
+own footing, which they did very successfully. We passed the Indian
+village of Illabaya, perched on the side of a hill, and all plotted out
+in small squares for the cultivation of vegetables, etc., of which we
+bought a supply for our own use. The highest point we passed was over
+14,000 feet, and then began the gradual descent into the pretty little
+town of Sorata, 6,000 feet lower down. The path was not of the best, and
+the pace was very slow; but the scenery was quite refreshing compared
+with what we had already passed through.
+
+Sorata is indeed very pretty and quaint, and although comparatively out
+of the world, a traveller can spend a short time there pleasantly, and
+personally speaking, the few days we remained were very enjoyable,
+thanks once more to my friend's influence. For a change we did not sleep
+on the floor, and by way of recreation I scented out a billiard table,
+not a good one, it is true, and the balls were rather elliptical; but as
+I had once personated the "Mikado," _à la Gilbert & Sullivan_, the
+conditions were not so disconcerting as they would doubtless have been
+to a less famous personage! Sorata, being the nearest town to the
+Bolivian rubber districts which export their products to the Pacific
+coast, is naturally of more consequence on that account, as all
+materials and merchandise for the interior must pass through the hands
+of the Sorata merchants, while the rubber exported to the coast also
+finds its way through the medium of Sorata agents.
+
+There is the usual plaza in the centre of the town, where the youth and
+beauty disport themselves in the way peculiar to these mountainous
+regions, which consists of walking round and round at a good pace to
+keep up the circulation, as the weather is nearly always cold in Sorata.
+Illampu, the competitor of Illimani and Aconcagua, and which claims to
+be the highest peak in South America, rises up magnificently right above
+and round the town, and visitors for the first time must really wonder
+how they are to find a road to cross these gigantic mountains, as the
+town appears to be so completely shut in.
+
+However, on 27th May we started to ascend the track forming the way to
+the interior, and got a fine send-off by the inhabitants, the more
+important of whom turned out to bid us adieu and wish us luck over a
+case or two of beer. The climb before us was a constant one for 18
+miles, and to-day we were to pass the highest point of our entire trip.
+This we reached about midday, at just under 16,000 feet. We were above
+the perpetual snow-line for a short time, and it was piercingly cold,
+besides we had to go slowly on account of the thin air, but we kept
+steadily on and reached an old mining establishment called "El Injenio"
+at 5 p.m., having done 24 miles in all since morning. There is a long,
+steep descent to the old mining camp by a narrow winding track cut out
+of the mountain side, and as the drop on one side to the little stream
+down below was about 40 to 50 feet, and there was no protecting fence of
+any kind, we decided to get off our mules, and accordingly completed the
+worst part of the way on foot, and of course this made travelling very
+much slower.
+
+Apparently, gold-washing had not been carried on for a very long time,
+as although the main building still has a roof, the whole place has a
+very deserted look about it; but, nevertheless, it still affords a
+covering for weary travellers like ourselves, and we soon began to
+select the most comfortable looking corners for our beds. There was an
+old Indian there who earns a meagre existence by selling forage to
+passing travellers for their beasts of burden; and he was also utilised
+by us for getting a fire ready and boiling water for a welcome cup of
+warm tea.
+
+One thousand feet above our heads, as it seemed, we could see Llane,
+another of these quaint, Indian hamlets, but the appearance of the
+exceedingly precipitate track up to it did not excite us in any desire
+to make the ascent. After partaking of some food, we got under our
+blankets in the usual way at sunset to once more sleep the sleep of the
+contented traveller. By 6.15 next morning we were again in the saddle
+and under way--the road was now even narrower than before, about two
+feet wide only--winding round and round the mountain side, ascending all
+the time, and in some parts far too steep for comfortable riding. From
+now onwards the journey was over tracks, not roads, and many of the
+ascents and descents were so steep that it was quite out of the question
+to attempt to negotiate them on muleback. We, accordingly, with
+philosophic patience had just to accept the inevitable, and get off and
+lead our animals over these now really dangerous parts. Some of the
+precipices down to the river bed were now much deeper, and had we slid
+over, we might have experienced considerable inconvenience at the
+bottom, and a greater difficulty in getting up again. The roads became
+worse and worse, and really they could be given no other name than
+"goat-tracks," but the mule is a wonderful beast, and let him have his
+head (on no account attempt to guide him), there is not much fear of any
+serious trouble. Our sleeping place for the night was to be at an old
+ruin of a house at a bare, but more level, opening in the mountains,
+called Tolapampa, and before reaching this we had to negotiate much the
+worst pass on the whole route. This is called the "tornillo" (screw),
+and it is a real corkscrew path, cut out of the mountain side at an
+angle of about 50 deg., and about 450 feet of a climb.
+
+Riding was of course impossible, and we scrambled more than walked until
+we safely got over the top, very tired and puffed out. The mules with
+their cargo followed our example, and it was wonderful to see how they
+kept their feet; as one false step might have sent them to the bottom,
+carrying everything behind them too, and on more than one occasion this
+has happened, the animals falling, generally being killed outright in
+the fall. Pushing on as fast as possible, it was not till 4 o'clock p.m.
+that our residence for the night loomed in view, and it did not inspire
+one that it could supply much in the way of home comforts. Sure, the old
+hovel had walls and a roof, but beyond that there were no windows, and
+where the door ought to have been there was only a hole in the wall, but
+nothing to close it with to keep out the intense cold.
+
+We, of course, knew when we started that we would have to rough it, so
+there was no use grumbling now, and therefore set about at once to get
+something to make a fire with. With great good fortune we, after a great
+deal of searching and gathering, obtained some old rubbish that burned.
+I say with good luck, because this is a treeless region yet, at an
+elevation of 10,000 feet, and fuel is naturally always at a premium. For
+cooking it did not matter so much, as we had a spirit lamp, but it was
+to warm our bodies and keep up our spirits that made the fire so
+desirable. Darkness was on us before we finished our evening meal, and
+we looked forward to the night with no very pleasant forebodings--and it
+did turn out a tiresome night--it rained all the time and the cold was
+extreme--so much so, that we eventually sat up most of the time, hoping
+by daylight to move on to a more charitable atmosphere.
+
+I think I should not miss this opportunity of relating an experience of
+mine when I journeyed over the same route on another occasion. Then I
+was only accompanied by two Indians--no white people--and was travelling
+towards Sorata. I remember very well we reached Tolapampa, already
+described, in the afternoon, it having rained constantly all day. I was
+suffering from malaria very acutely, and the high levels at which we had
+been travelling also affected me grievously. I arrived at Tolapampa
+soaked to the skin, shivering cold, and really more dead than alive. To
+aggravate matters we could not light a fire--everything was wet--and I
+can assure you it was anything but a bright outlook for us. Another gang
+of about ten Indians also turned up, and we did look a sorry lot.
+However, these natives, seeing that I was so weak (I had had malaria
+almost constantly during the previous six months), did all they could to
+get me to "buck up," and kept moving me backwards and forwards to warm
+myself, which operation I well remember was a very tedious one. They
+also tried to get me to eat of their cold frugal fare; but that was
+beyond me; and after they decided it was time to rest for the night, I
+scrambled in _amongst them_--Indians all round me--so as to benefit from
+the heat of their bodies. It was neither a very pleasant nor a very
+clean position that I occupied, and I can hardly realise how I had the
+courage to do what I did; but the facts remain the same, and at any rate
+I got some rest.
+
+It poured all night, and when at daybreak I suggested to my men that it
+was time to start, they positively refused to move until the rain
+ceased. I brought all my persuasive powers to bear, but it was of no
+avail, and as I had decided to go on alone, all I got out of them was a
+promise they would follow me at 10 o'clock. It was very disappointing,
+but I was determined to get forward at all cost. I therefore started on
+my lonely journey at eight o'clock, with the rain, and at times sleet,
+coming down in bucketfuls; I could hardly see in front of me at times,
+and it was destined to be a trip of which I shall always retain very
+vivid recollections. On this occasion, owing to the excessive rains, all
+the little mountain streams, which under normal circumstances are of no
+inconvenience to travellers, had been converted into veritable roaring
+torrents, causing me on more than one occasion to think twice before
+attempting a crossing. To condense matters as much as possible, let me
+remark that it rained all day; travelling was not only difficult but
+positively dangerous, and I, being so ill, could hardly keep my seat on
+my mule. All this made travelling so slow that I was still a long way
+from "El Injenio," my objective point for the night, when darkness
+overtook me. I had the narrow, dangerous paths to go along which I have
+already described, and I therefore did not trust to getting over them on
+muleback, but took the safer and, in my opinion, more sensible plan of
+leading my animal. This was tedious work, but it was to become worse
+very soon. I arrived at one of those swollen mountain streams, the
+appearance of which in the darkness fairly frightened me. My mule would
+not look at it, and for a while I did not know exactly what to do. I
+could judge that it was four or five feet deep, and rushing past at a
+great rate. Neither mule nor I could ever have hoped to keep our feet if
+we had attempted crossing, as it was about thirty feet wide. I left my
+mule and commenced to reconnoitre along the side, when I came to what
+had been a bridge, but which was partly washed away, leaving a gap of
+about four feet in the middle, as far as I could judge in the uncertain
+light, and over which it was impossible for a mule to go. Leaving my
+mule, I made a good jump, and, fortunately, got over all right, but,
+after all, I did not know in the least where I was, and, before
+attempting to return to my animal, I started to go forward in the hope
+of at least striking some sheltered spot where I might pass the night.
+Meantime, however, I heard a crash, and, as it turned out, away had gone
+the remainder of the bridge, leaving me on one side, and now completely
+isolated from my mule and saddle-bags. There was no use fretting, so I
+continued moving on--it was now dark--feeling my way, and keeping very
+carefully away from the river. I had not proceeded very far before my
+progress was all too suddenly arrested. I did not until the next morning
+know what actually did take place, but the facts are as follows: In
+groping my way along I had actually been walking on the very edge of a
+sort of precipice, and apparently had simply stepped over the side. At
+any rate, I rolled to the bottom, which, luckily for me, was only about
+fifteen feet; but it was quite a bump, and I wondered where I had
+actually landed. As it was so black, and I did not know anything of my
+surroundings, I simply made up my mind to remain where I had fallen
+until morning. I ought to tell you that, although I had plenty of
+matches, they were all wet with the rain, so that they would not light,
+and I had to remain in darkness all night. My saddle-bags were with the
+mule, and I did not even know now where the animal might be. I was
+soaking wet, shivering with ague, nothing to eat, plenty of cigarettes
+and matches, but unable to smoke or even make a light, so my
+disagreeable plight can to some extent be imagined. Moreover, there were
+about six inches of water all round me, so that I could not attempt to
+sleep. The cold was intense, and I can safely say that I never spent
+such a long, disagreeable, and dreary night in all my previous
+experience, and I hope never to be compelled to do so again. There are
+bears in this district also, but I am thankful to say that I was not
+molested in any way.
+
+Towards morning the rain slackened, and when daylight came I never felt
+more thankful in my life. I climbed out of my nest, and there, only
+about a hundred yards away, was my faithful mule standing exactly as I
+had left him. I waited until the water in the stream had gone down
+sufficiently, and crossing on foot, with the water about two feet deep,
+I mounted my mule, and then recrossed on muleback. I knew from the
+number of hours I had travelled on the previous day I could not be far
+from Injenio, and I was right, as in less than an hour I saw my
+destination right ahead of me. I was in a pitiful condition, and could
+hardly stand up. The old Indian recognised me and got me dry wraps after
+a fashion, and I got under his dry blankets. I could not eat, but I
+drank a large quantity of "Aguardiente," which at least put some life
+into me. In the meantime I did not know what had become of my pack
+animals and Indians, but I was not in a state to worry about them, and
+didn't. Instead, I kept my bed for about thirty hours, until I was
+revived somewhat. Then, luckily, my men turned up, and I was able to
+continue my journey to Sorata.
+
+Well, we left Tolapampa about 6 a.m., and for the best part of the day
+the route was over country very similar to that passed on the previous
+day; but we were descending rapidly now, and the temperature became
+perceptibly much warmer, in fact, by the afternoon we had indications
+that soon we should arrive in the "montes," where we would have
+vegetation in abundance, and consequently we would at least have some
+shade during the heat of the day. The road, nevertheless, continued to
+be very rough and broken, and we had frequently to dismount and lead our
+animals for long distances at a time. The long pass of Margurani was
+unusually tiring, as it was down hill most of the time, and over loose
+rocks and stones, which were very hard on our poor feet. Pararani, a
+small stopping-place, was reached about 2 p.m., and as both we and the
+animals had just about had enough of it, we decided to remain for the
+night.
+
+We were now right in tropical surroundings, and the beautiful palms and
+ferns, not to mention the magnificent butterflies of all colours, were a
+grateful contrast to the scenery we had been accustomed to since we left
+Sorata. We were now only about two thousand feet above sea level, and
+the weather was very hot indeed, mosquitoes and other worrying insects
+were very plentiful; but, bad as they can be, they seemed trivial
+troubles compared with what we had come through. At this "puesto" we
+were better treated, as we obtained vegetables, bananas, and oranges,
+and with our tinned stuffs made quite a decent repast. The place was
+owned by a Spaniard, and he, along with his wife, cultivates a little
+piece of ground, and supplied passing travellers with general rations
+for both man and beast. The place was clean in comparison with what we
+had been accustomed to, and we seemed to sigh a mutual sigh of content
+at our good luck in reaching this "oasis." We rested all afternoon, and
+got to bed early, and, although there were rats about, I slept "like a
+log," I was so fearfully tired.
+
+In the morning, however, I awoke refreshed, and with our usual
+punctuality got away at 6 o'clock, feeling that at last we were nearing
+our journey's end, as we now directed our animals' heads towards
+Copacabana, the nearest of the rubber forests belonging to my friend.
+This was only three or four leagues off, and the going was somewhat
+improved also, so our progress was a good deal faster than usual. During
+the greater part of the present journey, the weather, so far, had been
+fairly good, that is, taking into consideration the high regions through
+which we had come, but we were not fated to be so successful on this our
+last day. In fact, we had not gone far, when a really characteristic
+tropical shower baptized us properly, and continued during the whole of
+the rest of the day, the result being, as may be imagined, that we
+arrived at "Copacabana" like the proverbial "drookit mice." As the path
+was beneath the trees all the way, we got the full benefit of the rain
+dripping from the branches overhanging, which was just like a shower
+bath all the time. However, I got into dry clothes, and, I think, felt
+when I got into the Estancia house, that after all the "roughing," the
+trip was, in part, compensated for by the new experiences I had gone
+through, making my way over these very mountainous regions at such a
+very high elevation.
+
+However, I remained for over a year in the rubber districts, and had an
+opportunity of seeing how the work is carried on and of judging of the
+enormous profit which must result to the lucky owners. Unfortunately,
+the climate is of the very worst, and the malaria being of a very
+malignant nature, is very hard on white people. I had my full share of
+this "terciana," as it is called, and sometimes wonder how I really
+managed to work my way to the outside world again.
+
+In conclusion, let me express a modest hope that the perusal of my
+humble effort to put personal adventures on paper may at least convey to
+the reader some idea of what has to be experienced if one chooses to be
+a wanderer like myself in remote places, and that he or she may to a
+certain extent enjoy the result nominally, without going through the
+hard work involved in the actual performance.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[F] Allow me to remind the reader that Lake Titicaca is the highest
+water in the world which is navigated by steam.
+
+[Illustration: _Loading Wheat at the Port of Buenos Aires._]
+
+
+
+
+PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES.
+
+
+The first Custom House built for the port of Buenos Aires was in 1603.
+The only work carried out in the harbour up to the end of the eighteenth
+century was the construction of thirty-five metres of brick quay-wall at
+the site of the "Arsenal" on the Riachuelo. We find that although
+between the years 1852 and 1858 many plans were presented for building
+of piers, these were only carried into practice and built by the
+Government under the technical direction of Engineer E. Taylor; a new
+Custom House replacing the fortress, a timber pier for loading and
+unloading goods, and another pier for passenger traffic at the locality
+of the old mole. In the year 1878 the Riachuelo was first opened for
+traffic for sea-going ships, and in 1879, 197 vessels with 55,091
+tonnage had entered the Riachuelo. As early as 1862 Ed. Madero turned
+his attention to the question of docks for the port of Buenos Aires, and
+in 1865 applied for permission to construct them at his own cost, but
+the application was rejected. Four years later he presented another
+application, which suffered the same fate. In 1869 the total exports
+from Buenos Aires were 397,722 tons, the bulk of which were loaded at
+the Riachuelo, and steamers over 100 metres long frequented the harbour
+about the time of 1870. It was not until 1882 that Ed. Madero succeeded
+in obtaining the concession of building the docks for the port of Buenos
+Aires. The docks were to be constructed on the river side of the city,
+between the gasworks on the north and the Riachuelo River on the south.
+
+The trade of the City of Buenos Aires up to the time of the opening of
+the South Basin had nearly all been carried on between the shore and the
+steamers by lighters and small steam tenders. The usual anchorage for
+the ocean steamers was in the "bar anchorage," a distance of about
+fourteen miles from the city. The cargoes were transhipped into
+lighters, which brought them as near to the shore as possible, and from
+this point they were taken to the Custom House in specially-constructed
+carts with very large wheels. Passengers were transhipped in the bar
+anchorage into small tenders, and were brought to a point about 500
+metres from the end of the passenger mole. From these tenders, when
+there was sufficient water, they were taken ashore in small boats,
+while, if the water was too low to go alongside the mole, they also had
+to be brought ashore in carts. In many cases, however, passengers were
+brought on in tenders and landed at the Riachuelo wharves, which were
+then under construction. The first steamers that arrived in the River
+Plate were those of the Royal Mail Company, followed by the French
+Messageries Maritimes, and shortly afterwards by the Lamport & Holt
+Line.
+
+Up to the year 1870 these lines, and a few more that were started,
+progressed very slowly, although the rates of freight were then very
+high; but after that trade increased gradually, and not only a fair
+number of sailing-vessels arrived yearly, but the regular lines of
+steamers increased their number of sailings. The great drawback was the
+deficient state of the port, where steamers had to lie at a distance of
+fourteen to sixteen miles, and most of the sailing-vessels at ten to
+twelve miles from the shore. There was no channel dredged, and even the
+Riachuelo was so scantily supplied with water that lighters drawing
+seven to eight feet were sometimes for weeks prevented from getting out
+to deliver their cargo to the sea-going vessels in the outer roads. The
+discharge was exclusively effected into lighters, which, apart from the
+heavy expense incurred by the receiver of the goods, presented the great
+objection that a considerable portion of the cargo was often broached
+and pilfered before it reached the shore, claims for which had to be
+paid by the ship. Another point was that many of these lighters were old
+sailing-vessels or steamers, and, in the unseaworthy and leaky state
+they were in, often arrived with their cargo considerably damaged. On
+the completion of the South Basin on 28th January, 1889, passengers were
+able to embark or disembark with a little more comfort, and cargoes were
+landed on the quays. Docks 1 and 2 have each a water area of 23 acres,
+being 570 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,420
+metres. No. 3 Dock has a water area of 27 acres, is 690 metres long by
+160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,660 metres. No. 4 Dock has a
+water area of 25 acres, is 630 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a
+quay length of 1,535 metres.
+
+All these four docks, when they were originally finished, had a depth of
+23 feet 9 inches below low water, so that, however low the river may be,
+there should never be less than 23 feet 9 inches in the docks. Since
+then dredging has been going on and the docks have been deepened to
+receive larger vessels. The docks are united by passages 20 metres in
+width, each passage being crossed by a swing bridge. Dock No. 4 is
+entered at its northern end by the north lock. This lock opens into the
+North Basin, which has a water area of 41 acres and a quay length of
+1,409 metres and a depth of 21 feet 3 inches. The total area of the
+basins and the four docks is 174 acres, and the total length of quays
+8,482 lineal metres. The following are the dates the various basins and
+docks were opened to traffic:--
+
+    South Basin   ...   ...   ...   28th January, 1889
+    South Lock, Dock No. 1    ...   31st January, 1890
+    Dock No. 2    ...   ...   ...   26th September, 1890
+    Dock No. 3    ...   ...   ...   31st March, 1892
+    Dock No. 4, North Lock, North
+      Basin, and Graving Docks ...  7th March, 1897
+    First half of North Channel...  15th June, 1897
+    Second half of North Channel,
+      buoys and beacons  ...   ...  31st March, 1898
+
+The timber sea-wall was built to a level of 16 feet above low water, and
+the stone sea-wall to 19 feet. Originally there were built three sheds
+in the South Basin, three sheds and two warehouses in Dock No. 1, two
+warehouses and two sheds in Dock No. 2, five warehouses in Dock No. 3,
+and four warehouses in Dock No. 4, the total capacity of these sheds and
+warehouses being 525,510 cubic metres, and the floor area 192,800 square
+metres. Since then, several warehouses have been built, and some burnt
+down. The total cost of the harbour works as contracted for by Ed.
+Madero was $35,000,000 gold, or, say, about £7,000,000. This includes
+the South Basin, Dock No. 1, Dock No. 2, Dock No. 3, Dock No. 4, North
+Basin, North Channel, Graving Docks, machinery, etc.
+
+The following statement shows the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires in 1880, 1890, 1900, and 1909, and clearly shows
+the advance made in the last 30 years.
+
+These figures include steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well
+as foreign trade.
+
+    1880   ...   ...   ...      644,750 tons
+    1890   ...   ...   ...    4,507,096 tons
+    1900   ...   ...   ...    8,047,010 tons
+    1909   ...   ...   ...   16,993,973 tons
+
+In 1909 we find that 2,008 steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the
+port of Buenos Aires from foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542,
+and 1,978 steamers and 129 sailing-vessels left the port for foreign
+shores with a tonnage of 5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead
+with 2,242 steamers and 37 sailing-vessels, or, say, 53-1/2 per cent, of
+the total.
+
+
+
+
+JUST MY LUCK!
+
+
+I really have had rather bad luck. As you know, I was wrecked on my way
+out from the Old Country. The good ship "Southern Cross" met her fate on
+a rock in Vigo Bay, and my luggage met its fate at the same time. This
+was something of a blow, but I expected to be treated a little more
+kindly by fate when once my destination was reached; I would be a
+stranger in a new country, and fate is proverbially kind to tyros of
+every sort.
+
+R.M.S.P. "Danube," which carried the shipwrecked passengers of the
+"Southern Cross" from Vigo to Buenos Aires, arrived at the Argentine
+capital towards the end of January. At the conclusion of my journey, one
+of my fellow-passengers, to whom I was saying good-bye, gave me this
+sound piece of advice: "Take care of yourself, and the country will take
+care of you." I don't suppose I can have taken care of myself, for
+within two months I was down with typhoid fever. This is how fate treats
+strangers in a new country.
+
+You know that I had the good fortune, shortly after my arrival, to find
+employment with the Santa Fé Land Company, and immediately on my falling
+ill, the Manager of the estancia sent me to bed, and reduced me to a
+milk diet. Two days later he himself took me down to the Buenos Aires
+British Hospital, and it is to this fact, and to the sensible treatment
+which I received in camp, that I in great measure owe my quick recovery.
+The journey to Buenos Aires was made as comfortable as possible. Even
+so, however, I must have been slightly delirious, for I remember
+thinking that everybody in the train was wearing a pink shirt without
+either coat or waistcoat. This must surely have been a delusion.
+
+I reached the hospital on a Sunday morning, and was promptly carried
+upstairs to a private ward. Though my temperature was now as much as 104
+deg., and my faculties were naturally not at their quickest, I could not
+help noticing the cheery look of the ward. There were flowers on the
+tables, the patients were obviously well cared for, everything was
+scrupulously clean, and the British nurses looked both efficient and
+attractive. The scrupulous cleanliness, together with the latest and
+most approved methods of treatment, were indeed a feature of the
+hospital in all its aspects.
+
+It was a short time afterwards that one of the doctors, after carefully
+diagnosing my case, ordered me to the medical ward, where there would be
+greater facilities for giving me a course of baths. In the medical ward
+my treatment was as kind and as careful as formerly, but my new
+surroundings had for the moment a rather depressing effect. I was just
+able to realise that the cases around me were more serious than in the
+private ward, and that both doctors and nurses were more grave and
+intent on their work. I was soon, however, to become delirious again,
+and for the next few days was more or less oblivious to my environment.
+After a short time I became more alive to what was happening around me.
+We typhoid patients had four cold baths daily, and those patients who in
+their normal existence were unaccustomed to one warm bath a week were
+somewhat inclined to rebel. This was amusing. My sense of humour was
+reviving. The company here was certainly more mixed than in the private
+ward--consisting as it did of every class and of every nationality, from
+Montenegrin to Turk, but it was not on that account any the less
+entertaining. Two or three berths away a brawny Scot of monster
+dimensions, who was convalescent after an acute attack of rheumatism,
+would every night before getting into bed say, with a certain naïvete,
+and without any sense of proportion, that he was going to his "little
+nest." And yet people accuse Scotsmen of a lack of imagination. On
+either side of me lay a typhoid patient--each delirious. The one on my
+right hand imagined he was at home drinking beer in Plymouth, and the
+one on my left, an Italian workman, would persistently call for his
+boots. It seemed he wished to return to his work and did not think any
+other article of dress necessary. The weather at the time was certainly
+hot, and this may have suggested such a daring flaunting of the
+conventions. It is curious that among typhoid patients this illusion of
+doing some action without sufficient clothing is rather prevalent. I
+myself at one time imagined that I had been discharged from the hospital
+with only the top of my pyjamas and a travelling rug. As I would carry
+the travelling rug on my arm, it scarcely compensated for the lack of
+other apparel. Through all these vagaries on the part of the patients
+the nurses remained kind and careful as ever. This was especially
+conspicuous in one case, where a patient insisted that his nurse was a
+Chinese pirate, and behaved accordingly, but she gave her charge the
+same excellent attention as before. At this time I began to be troubled
+with the pangs of a great hunger. After subsisting for five weeks on
+milk alone, my food diet began with small doses of cornflour and with
+large doses of castor oil, but at last there came a chicken. I shall
+never forget that first chicken, nor the nurse who brought it to me. How
+I tore those bones--of the chicken, not the nurse--apart, and how I
+attacked them in my fingers so that I should not leave any of the good
+meat. Eventually my bed in the medical ward was required for a more
+serious case than myself, and I was sufficiently well to be returned to
+the private ward for a few days of convalescence. The patients here were
+certainly more companionable than in the medical ward, and they suffered
+from less grave complaints. They were for the most part victims of
+accidents, and were all nearly well enough to leave the hospital. In the
+evenings we generally had some sort of amusement among ourselves. The
+_pièce de resistance_ was more often than not a wrestling match between
+the man with the amputated foot and the man who had undergone an
+operation for sciatica. As both performers were in ordinary
+circumstances compelled to use crutches, their efforts were distinctly
+humorous.
+
+It was after two months of medical treatment that I was able to leave
+the British Hospital, and it was only when on the point of leaving that
+I realised what we Britishers owe to this institution.
+
+The building itself is constructed on the most approved designs, it is
+fitted with every modern appliance, both medical and surgical; the
+treatment is excellent, the percentage of cures remarkable--not a single
+case has been lost in the medical ward during the current year; the
+doctors are not only experienced, but efficient; and finally, the
+nurses--but perhaps I have already dwelt with sufficient emphasis on
+their virtues.
+
+All the same, thank Heaven I return to camp in a week, and may fate deal
+more kindly with me in the future.
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+PATRON SAINT: GEORGE WASHINGTON.
+
+
+
+
+No. 1.
+
+_Saturday, March 26th, 1910._
+
+
+When we consider the already overstocked journalistic world, and
+remember the innumerable papers and magazines which greet one at every
+street corner and nestle in every armchair, we feel that an apology is
+due to our readers (if any) for our temerity in swelling the overflow of
+periodicals, but let us assure you our reasons for putting another paper
+on the market are purely altruistic. It is no idea of mere gain, or even
+a desire for notoriety that urges us to issue "The Tacuru"; we have
+undertaken this responsibility because we know that the world would be
+the loser did we refuse to give to the public the highly scientific
+impressions formed by an extraordinarily intelligent party of pilgrims
+during a unique journey into the wild uncultivated northern lands of the
+Argentine, especially as some of the most intellectual (the superlative
+adverb is well chosen) members of the band have promised to give their
+scientific views on the lands through which we shall pass daily. Though
+this expedition is only advertised to last a fortnight, yet we have no
+intention of closing our paper at the end of that time, for we are
+certain that once the public have been educated to appreciate the
+high-class literature and useful information which it will be the aim of
+"The Tacuru" to supply, we shall have created a demand and interest
+which not even Halley's comet can rival, and we shall endeavour to
+satisfy that demand daily. Our only fear was that lest the world should
+be kept waiting for the publication of our paper, for though everything
+was in readiness yesterday for an early start to-day, the elements
+seemed inclined to delay us, and when rain had fallen steadily nearly
+all day, The Instigator of the trip was seen to clench his jaw yesterday
+afternoon, as he remarked "We cannot start till Monday." This fiat
+caused dire consternation; the idea of waiting for two days when all
+those carts were packed ready for our immediate outset, filled the party
+with annoyance, and had it not been for the fact that The Instigator is
+a man not to be trifled with, it is possible remonstrances might have
+been raised. But, fortunately, each member of the party only possessed
+the angelic variety of temper, so no expostulations were made, and peace
+was maintained. This unequalled patience under trials was rewarded, and
+great was the joy of the party when at 8 p.m. it was found that the rain
+had ceased, and the moon shone forth in such a way as to influence The
+Instigator to rescind his decision and declare an early start for
+to-day.
+
+Rumour has it that The Jehu and his aide-de-camp and Our Hostess sat up
+till 12.30 a.m., finally arranging "places in the carriages, food
+supplies, blankets required," and all the innumerable details which made
+for the party's comfort.
+
+Before we publish the impressions, contributed by one member of the
+band, on to-day's trip, we think our readers might appreciate a slight
+character sketch of each of our "Staff." There are nine Pilgrims.
+
+FIRST: _The Instigator_. Well, he's right when you know him, but you do
+want to know him first. What possessed him to suggest that we should
+trek away north, goodness only knows, unless he was fired by a desire to
+imitate the Cook-Peary journeys, or it may have been the celebrated
+"Cristobal Cocktails" which inspired him to do great deeds.
+
+We hear that coming out from England he earned a reputation on board
+ship as an auctioneer, and once even sold a live lord for a few
+shillings to the highest lady bidder. As a camp man he is a marvel,
+never seen on horseback, but generally discovered on his hands and knees
+fudging about with a thing he calls a pocket microscope, and
+occasionally going off into hysterics over some clod of earth, a leaf,
+or some weird microbes which he says are feeding on the alfalfa roots.
+Talking of feeding, The Instigator can eat anything, his motto is "_tout
+jour_"; he has the digestion of an ostrich, and says "it is just as well
+to make a good meal while you are about it, for you never know when and
+where you will get the next." His best friends cannot say he is musical
+(save when others are trying to sleep); but he has a favourite song, and
+it is that old music-hall classic entitled "Do, do, be always on the
+do." However, he is a very good fellow, and notwithstanding that square
+jaw of his, which seems to hint at the possibility of "a man of wrath"
+existing in that silent thoughtful being, he is kindness itself to all,
+and never fails to do his share of work as it comes along.
+
+SECOND: _Our Guest_. The Wild Man discovered this _rara avis_ in a
+railway carriage, babbling for "Kwilmez Beer," so he was brought along,
+and he had not been long at the Estancia before he was running first
+favourite in the Popularity Stakes. He was always ready for anything,
+and it must have been his desire to acquire knowledge which induced him
+to come with the party. The Saint has undertaken to explain to him how
+colonists thrive on the 8 per cent. system, and to teach him how many
+grains of maize make "ocho." We doubt whether she will succeed in the
+latter attempt, for we fancy Our Guest will never leave eight grains of
+maize uneaten; he is a wonder for that delicacy, and feeds on it
+constantly, and we hear rumours that he intends to take some maize cobs
+home with him to his native country, and proposes to feed his "team" on
+it.
+
+THIRD: _The Delineator._ This is a misnomer, he really should be called
+"The Photographer," but that sounds so common, and his views are so
+uncommon that we called him The Delineator instead; besides, he always
+travels about with maps and charts (his own, or someone else's) and when
+appealed to as to what course we should take, replies in a cold, hard
+voice, "North by North, just as she goes." Like the rest of the party,
+he has never travelled quite the road we are going now, but the prospect
+of collecting a few new varieties of butterflies, moths, insects, and
+plants caused his eyes to light up with a wild gleam when he heard of
+the trip, and the yarns he spins of things unseen by the ordinary sober
+mortal are ever a joy to the listener, and make them whisper, _se non è
+vero è ben trovato._
+
+FOURTH: _The Jehu._ There is but one name for a man who handles his
+four-in-hand over tree-trunks, tacurus, and tussocks, as our coacher
+does. He drives as not even his namesake drove; in rain, in sunshine, in
+light, in darkness, over smooth ground or rough, he guides his steeds
+with consummate skill and care, which is wonderful to see. After a more
+than usually big bump he turns to his passengers with a cheery "All
+aboard?"; then gives his attention once more to the animals of which he
+is so fond, and in which he takes such pride. His knowledge of the
+horses he drives is marvellous. The Jehu is a man of great perception
+and information, and has a pleasant knack of being able to convey his
+knowledge to others. He and The Instigator have great arguments together
+which interest all listeners by day, but the discussions are not
+followed with quite so much delight by those who are privileged to hear
+them at night, when they often degenerate into a snoring competition.
+
+FIFTH: _The Wild Man_--had been driven south by stress of weather and
+strikes. We should like to say something nice about him, for he always
+carries revolvers, knives, and cameras, but we fear that our kindest
+remarks may be misunderstood by one so unused to a quiet civilisation
+with no revolutions, so we refrain from all personal comments. This
+product of a land of luxuriant vegetation has a quaint penchant for
+collecting matchboxes (filled), old boots, deer horns, and any odd
+things lying about the camp belonging to himself or other people; still
+he is always cheerful and content, never grumbles, and can give valuable
+information respecting the ways of the natives who look upon him as a
+man and a brother.
+
+SIXTH: _The Chaperon_--has his uses. It will be his business to see that
+we are housed, clothed, and fed. The horses and peons will also be under
+his care, and if anyone wants to grumble about anything The Chaperon is
+the person to abuse. Tent-erecting is what he considers himself to be
+very good at; but rumour has it that his best accomplishment is
+hairdressing (ladies or gentlemen, English or foreign styles). His
+resources know no bounds; he has been seen to fasten up a pair of
+leggings with bits of stick. His powers of annexation, both mentally and
+materially, are indeed marvellous. He prefers to make his bed on the
+bricks or the cold, hard ground, and then enlarges on the comfort
+thereof; he generally takes his food standing up, and is always on the
+spot ready for any emergency when required.
+
+SEVENTH: _The Saint_--is a lady who will give away anything in her
+possession, save chicken or eggs. Just now she is making donations of
+pipes, tobacco, handkerchiefs (her own or The Instigator's), and good
+advice on matrimony. She is a person of importance, and is very keen on
+collecting knowledge which she is always ready to impart to others;
+unfortunately, some of her efforts to improve humanity have not been
+absolutely successful, but she is never discouraged, and takes up the
+next case on the list with equal enthusiasm. Most of us have to thank
+her for some good thing or other. She will do her best to keep every
+member of the party up to the mark, physically and mentally. Her
+accomplishments are numerous.
+
+EIGHTH: _My Lady_--is a general favourite; she will look after the lot
+of us in her own gracious fashion. Everyone goes to her for advice,
+sympathy, or help, which she is always ready to give. Even without her
+tea-basket she would be an absolute necessity for the social success of
+the trip, for, as the advertisements say of patent sweepers and the
+Encyclopaedia Britannica, "no party is complete without" her, so every
+one was glad to hear that she had agreed to accompany the northern
+pioneers. Those favoured ones who have seen her "on the boards," whisper
+that her histrionic genius is marvellous; we, who are not among the
+fortunate number, can only say that if her acting equals her talent for
+giving (when required) a really concise, lucid description of anything,
+it must indeed be wonderful. Her quotations, too, are so ready and apt,
+though occasionally they remind us, by their vagueness, of her namesake
+and favourite book.
+
+NINTH: _The Kid_. Why she is brought along, nobody will ever know. It
+may have been as a "contrapeso" ("an addition of meat or fish of
+inferior quality, thrown in to complete the weight," _vide_ Arturo
+Cuyas' Dictionary), but we think she came with the sheep. Anyhow, it was
+not until the first part of the journey had been accomplished that she
+was discovered bleating in the corner of one of the coaches. We had a
+meeting to decide whether she should come on with us or not, and
+arranged to put her on the job of tidying up for the trip; but her
+hopeless incompetence and ready impertinence to her superior officers,
+necessitated instant dismissal without a character. However, as she is
+really not worth the trouble of sending back, we locked up the tea tin,
+and let her continue the journey on the condition that she will not talk
+too much, awake or asleep. With any luck, we may yet lose her somewhere
+in the wilds.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The one disappointment expressed by all the party was that Our Hostess
+decided not to accompany us on the trip, but to await our return at
+Cristobal.
+
+We started out from the estancia house as soon as the ladies' luggage
+could be brought downstairs, and we should like to remark, in passing,
+that it was a very affecting sight to see Our Guest, The Delineator, and
+The Wild Man lifting and carrying heavy boxes and baggage (with no
+thought of gain) out to the peons, who, under the able direction of The
+Chaperon, loaded them scientifically on to one of the four carts, which,
+when ready, were sent on ahead with the nine peons who had been told off
+for the trip. Cameras appeared from every available corner as we
+prepared to move, and many invaluable photos of the start of the caravan
+must have been secured by those who gave us such a hearty send-off. When
+at last Our Hostess had put in the final cushion and rug, and provided
+us with biscuits and bull's-eyes, and was satisfied that even she could
+do nothing more for our comfort, we parted from her with great regret,
+promising that she should receive numerous marconigrams concerning our
+welfare, and our travels en route. First went off the four-in-hand
+driven by The Jehu, who had four members of the party in his care; he
+was followed by The Chaperon, who drove a pair, and looked after the
+rest of the explorers.
+
+There is an old saying, "Give a dog a bad name and you may as well hang
+him." The truth of this saying has never been better exemplified than
+in the case of the Chaco, which long held the reputation of being good
+for nothing. Rumour had it that the northern land was useless; life was
+impossible there for the white man; indeed, it was supposed that cattle
+even could not live there on account of the mosquitoes and garrapata;
+and Indians were said to be as thick as flies, and equally disturbing.
+
+The Santa Fé Land Company has been one of the pioneers who steadily
+fought down these reports, and by showing what good cattle could be bred
+there, and what crops grown, has gradually opened up the possibilities
+of the northern lands to colonists and investors. Slowly but surely
+workers came north, first in fear and dread, but later with confidence,
+and now the cry is "They come, and still they come." Before we had gone
+far on our journey we had an opportunity of conversing with one lately
+arrived colonist. A wonderful crop of maize attracted our notice, and we
+stopped to speak to the great, jolly, strong-framed Italian who had
+grown it. He has moved up from the south with his wife and family, and
+his fellow-workmen. They started ploughing, and though it was late in
+the season, he was persuaded to try a catch-crop of maize, with the
+result that he has to-day banked $5,000, when he never expected to
+secure a chance harvest. And so sure is he that the land will repay all
+labour and time expended upon it that he is anxious to take up a league
+and colonize it with his fellow-countrymen.
+
+It is the same story all through the northern lands; anyone with pluck,
+adaptability and grit can do what this man has done: indeed hard work
+and perseverance will as amply reward the labourer in the northern lands
+as they have done in the south. The sight of this great crop of valuable
+maize, on land which a few months before was a mere waste, brings the
+words of the Psalmist forcibly to one's thoughts, for surely of no
+country could it more truly be said than of the Argentine, "Dwell in
+the land, and be doing good, and, verily, thou shalt be fed"; and
+perhaps there are few countries in which there are less openings for the
+man whose mind is not set towards "doing good": the Argentine has little
+room for the shirker.
+
+[Illustration: _Horses awaiting Inspection._]
+
+The rain of yesterday relieved us from the trials of dust on our
+journey, but it also made the going very heavy, and instead of
+travelling for the usual two hours before relieving horses, we were
+obliged to make an early stop for a change. This is always an
+interesting sight, for the animals are so well trained. Our total number
+is 87, and when a halt is called, these animals are all lined up in a
+row, generally against a wire fence. At the word of command they range
+themselves, backed close against the fence in a long line with their
+heads outwards. Packed tightly together they await the inspection of
+their master, who chooses the animals he requires, and as they are
+standing thus they allow themselves to be haltered up and led quietly
+away from the line to be harnessed. Their training is wonderful, but it
+is really amusing to watch the expression of the horses as they stand in
+a row while the selection takes place, they seem to be saying "Please,
+sir, not I this time." Where no wire fence is available, the peons
+stretch a rope or lasso out, and the horses will line up against that in
+the same manner. During our first change of horses, unexpected
+excitement occurred. The Saint perceived a plaid horse--at least this is
+what she called it, and we believed it to be German for piebald
+horse--from which a peon had dismounted. This horse must have reminded
+her of the circus-riders of her childhood (or possibly her action was
+owing to temporary aberration); anyhow, without a word of warning, she
+leapt astride the native saddle and gave a short display of how it
+should be done. However, fortunately from her point of view, though
+disappointingly from that of the spectators, the piebald animal had not
+been trained to circus tricks, and only quietly ambled along for a few
+yards, during which time the cameras came into full play. After The
+Saint had been persuaded to dismount, and the horses were harnessed up,
+an onward move was made, and it was not long before we met our host for
+the day. He had ridden to the furthest outposts of his section to join
+us, and under his guidance we were conducted to two or three spots,
+where The Instigator inspected rodeos of animals in his charge.
+
+We arrived at the Section house of Polvareda about midday, and found
+that our host had prepared an alarmingly sumptuous repast for his influx
+of visitors: as course followed course, roast ducks dodged the turkey,
+and were pursued by plum pudding, etc., we began to wonder if our host
+thought that meal would have to last us for the fortnight of our trip.
+But we discovered that he came from the West of England, and had not
+forgotten the ideas of hospitality current in that part of the world.
+Rumour had it that he himself had been seen carrying about pails of
+scalded milk at 4 a.m. This proceeding explains the delicious Devonshire
+cream and butter we are enjoying.
+
+The afternoon was spent in driving or riding round the section to
+inspect various windmills, more groups of cattle, wells, fencing, and
+new alfalfa, etc. Our host, as we were driving round, took the
+opportunity for giving us a short, successful exhibition of buck-jumping
+with his steed, whether willingly or not, neither he nor history
+mentions. At eventide, another excellent repast was provided, and The
+Saint was so impressed by the catering and culinary skill of our host,
+that she decided to inaugurate a prize to be won by the bachelor
+estanciero who shall provide the best meals for the hungry nomads during
+the trip; certainly our host for to-day has put the standard very high
+for the other competitors. A short telephonic communication was held
+during dinner with Our Hostess at Cristobal, and "All's well" was
+reported on both sides.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _Stacking Alfalfa._]
+
+[Illustration: _Alfalfa Elevator at Work._]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 2.
+
+_Sunday, March 27th, 1910._
+
+
+The party did not sit up late last night; they had a short talk on the
+verandah for the sake of digestion, and then all retired to bed, but
+alas! not to rest. Foolishly they had imagined that mosquitoes were
+things of the past, and no nets were put up, with the result that one
+and all soon learnt that for fresh blood and newcomers there was a
+plethora of these little demons waiting with their irritating song,
+sting, and bite: from some of the party we learn complaints of other
+songs, more human, and more nasal, and it is believed that it was Our
+Guest who was heard at midnight to be murmuring the chorus of a
+favourite song, viz., "Hush, boys! No noise! Silence ebryting! Listen,
+and you'll hear de little angels sing." At least it says "angels" in the
+song, but the word Our Guest used sounded like "demons," but probably he
+was dreaming of the "ping" of bullets and the roar of battle as the
+snores resounded through the room, or, one might almost say, through the
+house. Very early this morning there were cries for The Chaperon: he was
+wanted to tell the time; he was wanted to bring water for ablutions; he
+was wanted to tell us when breakfast would be ready; he was wanted to
+give advice or remedies for mosquito bites, and, in general, for a short
+space of time, he justified his existence. When at last the members of
+the party had collected themselves from all sorts of odd corners,
+coffee (with the addition of bacon and eggs, and several other things)
+was served, and the interval, before the order "All aboard" was issued,
+was chiefly occupied in observing and discussing the effects of our
+first night's experience of bichos. Our Guest, after due deliberation,
+laid down some useful rules for future guidance, the chief being, "Never
+be without a Mosquitero": his face and head were literally enlarged on
+this point, and he assured us that a mosquito's proboscis is an
+impressive point. Apparently The Kid, too, would have liked to give her
+views on mosquitoes and their ways, but her uninteresting remarks were
+cut short by The Wild Man's order of "kennel up," and, given a bottle of
+cana, she seemed quite happy. Our Guest seemed to have an impression,
+also, that someone had blundered. He knew someone had slumbered (some
+had not), and plaintively he begged that he might be allowed in future
+to sleep at one estancia further ahead of the rest of the party.
+
+Most of the nomads had had some slapping acquaintance with mosquitoes
+during the night, and the showing of bites, swellings, lumps, etc., only
+ended when The Jehu ordered the bugle to be sounded for an onward move.
+We were well under way before half the lamentations had been entered in
+the station complaint book.
+
+Bidding adieu to Polvareda, where the green fields of alfalfa show the
+march of progress, we pushed forward, but as we left we were unable to
+decide whether it was a desire to escape observation (and, perhaps, the
+too-effusive thanks of the lady members of the party), or a violent
+toothache, which caused our host to conceal himself in a huge blanket
+wrapped around his head as we left, but we fear it was toothache that
+necessitated the extra wrappings.
+
+[Illustration: _The Green Fields of Alfalfa_.]
+
+We had not gone far on our journey before we crossed the bridge over Las
+Conchas. The manager of the next section met us soon afterwards, and we
+inspected the cattle on his domains. On our way from Polvareda to
+Michelot we passed the emporium of the Universal Provider of the North,
+in other words, "the stores," where most of the necessities and many of
+the luxuries of life can be obtained. The Saint can never resist the
+desire of a bargain, and others of the party were anxious to see all
+that the stores contained, so we made a halt and inundated the building,
+where everything was extraordinarily neat and clean, shelves piled high
+with bales of bright-coloured cottons, cloths, and handkerchiefs; hats
+hanging in long lines, brilliant saddle-cloths, pipes, knives, tobacco,
+axes, leather goods and harness, every variety of tinned foods, barrels
+of flour, sugar, etc., all arranged with precision, and showing
+cleanliness and method at every turn. Some men were sitting on the
+benches, smoking and drinking and chatting together, for apparently "the
+stores" constitutes the local rendezvous and news agency for miles
+around.
+
+The Saint at once made purchases, for no place is stamped on her memory
+unless she has spent money there. She wanted to make the whole party
+presents of hats, handkerchiefs, or pipes, but she was restrained, and
+ultimately satisfied her generosity by choosing the best saddle-cloth
+the establishment could supply, and one or two hats. We went into the
+living-rooms of the storekeeper, and found the same attractive neatness
+there. A gramophone occupied a side table, and skins and pictures were
+hanging on the walls. The storekeeper's wife and her sister were
+attractive Englishwomen; there were two or three children running about,
+but none of them could speak anything but their father's native
+language. After this inspection we drove on, and we are glad to be able
+to register the fact that Our Guest for once acted up to the first part
+of the old adage, "Earn sixpence a day and live up to it." The Jehu's
+coach had stayed behind for a while, to allow The Instigator to observe
+and note a great many things which were no business of his at all, and
+the peons had likewise remained, but The Saint, having fulfilled her
+mission of purchasing whenever possible, was content, and anxious to get
+on to the Section house for a rest before her afternoon ride, so The
+Chaperon drove on with his coach, and we are assured, on what we
+consider good authority, that when Our Guest perceived a closed gate in
+the way, and no peon at hand, he leapt from the carriage (perhaps "flew"
+would be a better word) and opened that gate. Possibly he had been fired
+with ambition to earn money while inspecting those crimson and blue
+handkerchiefs at the stores, for we know he appreciates "colours"; but,
+whatever his motive, he _did_ open that gate, and let it be recorded to
+the honour of his fellow-passengers that his action was not allowed to
+pass unappreciated or unrewarded. When all the party were collected at
+Michelot estancia house, lunch was served on the verandah by a
+dour-looking Oriental, who apparently combined the duties of cook and
+parlourmaid in his own somewhat yellow person, and very well he
+performed his task, but as he went silently about his business of
+serving this large party, which he did with a slow precision and
+apparent utter disregard of his master's orders, he reminded us
+irresistibly of the soi-disant American definition of "Life," and we
+began to wonder whether it were not a Chinaman who summed up existence
+in the words, "After all, Life is only one d----d thing after another."
+
+[Illustration: _Herd of Cattle._]
+
+A short siesta followed lunch, and after an early tea everyone mounted
+horses or carriages and went forth to see the sights of the
+Section--everyone, that is to say, save The Chaperon, who had other work
+to do; he it was who discovered and averted what might have been a
+disaster. Some members of the party were quite content as long as they
+were given three cups of tea, others fancied cocktails, and some babbled
+for cocoa. It was suddenly found that the supply of this last useful
+article was running short. The Kid not being a cocoa-drinker, casually
+suggested filling up the tin with tannin extract or dust; she said "it
+looked the same and nobody need smell it," but The Chaperon declined to
+resort to subterfuges and rode off to the stores to supply a deficiency
+caused by his own lack of attention.
+
+At Michelot, as at Polvareda, great progress has been made of late
+years, alfalfa laid down, fences and wells made, and the cattle are
+improving yearly. Our last sight, before the inspection for the day was
+finished, was a wonderful rodeo of 3,000 cattle, which we viewed from
+the vantage point of the banks of a newly made reservoir. It was a
+striking picture, which will not easily be erased from the memory of
+those who saw it. The cattle, with their long continuous lowing, were
+rounded up below us, and away on the horizon the sun was setting with
+the glory one never sees better elsewhere than over a plain, leaving, as
+it rapidly sank from sight, marvellous shades of gold and crimson on the
+fantastically shaped clouds. Save for the animals and their drivers just
+around us, the whole vast space seemed so still and empty, yet on every
+hand were traces of man's labour and skill, conquering a tract of land
+which was almost valueless a few short years back.
+
+On our return to the house we found dinner for us on the verandah. This
+was a delightfully cool method of taking food, but rather apt to attract
+beasties, and although the philosophers and friends of the party
+arranged the lights to keep away insects as much as possible, and
+succeeded in their efforts, some members of the party preferred to take
+no risks and dined with veils wrapped around their heads, only leaving
+their mouths available. The Wild Man caused some excitement before we
+sat down to dinner by introducing us to a beast he called a "railway
+insect." It certainly strongly resembled a railway train, with its green
+light on its head, red at the tail, and luminous yellow lights all over
+its caterpillar-like body; it was a most interesting discovery, and the
+Wild Man went up in everyone's estimation for a few minutes. The
+Oriental again served us with silent steadiness. It was suggested that
+one of our "boys" should assist him in the task of waiting on the party
+of twelve, but notwithstanding the fact that he had been told he might
+kick round any boy he chose to make an assistant, he waived aside all
+outside help with the words "no good," and continued on his way
+imperturbably.
+
+The Instigator, with The Delineator and The Jehu, had a long discussion
+after dinner on various Argentine subjects too deep for the ordinary
+mortal, though The Wild Man and The Chaperon seemed to be trying to take
+an intelligent interest in the conversation. Our Guest sat silent,
+looked sad, and on being offered a penny for his thoughts, he murmured
+that he was wondering whether he would be allowed any sleep to-night.
+Doubtless he felt wearied, because, as it is Sunday, The Chaperon had
+been allowed to take a half-day off for his own amusements, and Our
+Guest, perhaps stimulated by his financial success of the morning,
+offered to fulfil the duties of chaperon during his absence; but we
+regret to say that we cannot candidly advise Our Guest to take up
+chaperoning as a means of livelihood, for though willing and tactful, he
+lacks the long training and apprenticeship necessary for continual
+service in this arduous work.
+
+The ladies seemed happier, for they had noted the mosquito nets over
+each bed in their room, and they looked forward to a peaceful night. We
+had our usual communication with Our Hostess over the telephone before
+retiring, and received and gave satisfactory reports from both sides.
+
+A correspondent wishes to know if any of our readers can name the author
+of these lines:--
+
+"Heaven gives sleep to the bad, in order that the good may be
+undisturbed." He would also like to know if this generally accepted
+quotation is quite correct, or whether the "un" is a misprint. Replies
+to "O.G.," c/o THE TACURU.
+
+Owing to the innumerable applications which we have received for
+advertising space in our widely circulated periodical, we have decided
+to open our columns to advertisements at the rate of 50 cents per line,
+applications to be sent to "The Advertisement Editor," THE TACURU
+Offices, c/o The Jehu, First Coach. All orders must be prepaid.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+WANTED.--Bricklayers who can build straight.--Apply Manager, Michelot.
+
+RIDING TAUGHT by a lady, side-saddle or astride; fees go to
+Charity.--Apply "T.S.," c/o TACURU Offices.
+
+BOOT CLEANING undertaken in best style. Gents', per pair, $1; Ladies',
+per pair, for the asking.--Orders received by "T.C.," Offices of this
+Paper.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 3.
+
+_Monday, March 28th, 1910._
+
+Owing to the care with which the mosquito nets had been put up, there
+were few complaints of bites when the party assembled for breakfast, but
+the conversation chiefly degenerated into an argument on phonetics. The
+different rooms held various views on the harmonizing of sounds. Had it
+been a glee competition we should undoubtedly have given the award to
+the verandah party. Sleeping on the bricks seems to bring out the
+sweetness of a treble voice as nothing else can do. The Saint and My
+Lady both remarked that they were very fond of music, but they could not
+appreciate being awakened from their beauty sleeps, by the announcement
+in a raucous voice of "No, thank you." They do not wish for a moment to
+imply that The Kid was not perfectly justified in refusing whatever she
+did refuse, but they would like her in future to confine her
+conversations to the daytime if possible, and to leave their nights in
+peace. It was a happy thought on the part of The Jehu to suggest a
+picnic at the Waters Meet to-day, before our forward move on to Los
+Moyes, and after breakfast we started out. First we went to inspect the
+site where the new house is to be built, then on to the pretty little
+monte near by, where some picturesque photographs were taken of the
+cavalcade of riders. We paused in this tiny monte, for it is an
+intensely interesting spot from a botanical point of view, and with care
+and attention should be so for some years to come. In an extraordinary
+small compass this wood contains more varied specimens of trees than one
+would ordinarily see in a day's journey. So on to Waters Meet. Here one
+is afforded an opportunity for studying the watershed of this portion of
+Argentina. Three rivers meet here, the Concha, the Calchaqui, and the
+Northern Salado. The latter is the only perennial river in that region;
+it rises in the snowy peaks of the Andes, in the province of Salta,
+miles away, and it is not to be wondered at, that, though it is a
+slow-moving river and meanders through the Gran Chaco, in the times of
+floods its swollen waters overflow their banks and flood immense tracts
+of land. Thomas Page, an American Admiral, in the year 1855, navigated
+this river from its junction with the Parana to the spot where we were
+to-day, but when he went up it there was so little water in the river
+that he had to give up the idea of continuing his pioneer task of
+exploration. It had been his intention to open up the river for trade,
+and there is no reason why this should not be done at some future date.
+The Calchaqui goes under different names at various places. It rises on
+the great swamps on the North-East of the Santa Fé Land Company's
+territory, and flows through a chain of lakes and cañadas until it runs
+into the huge laguna "Del Palmar," and thence along what used to be the
+Eastern boundary of the Santa Fé Land Company's lands, until it joins
+the Salado.
+
+The Calchaqui must drain at least 150,000 acres of land, and the Rio
+Concha has a watershed of about 60 or 70 thousand acres. It is not known
+what the area of the watershed of the Salado is, but it must be immense;
+therefore it can be understood that the meeting-place of the waters of
+these three rivers is an interesting spot geographically, and we were
+all glad to have seen it. On our arrival at the Water Meet we had our
+first introduction to the native "asado," and we all hoped it would not
+be the last. The peons collected (apparently from nowhere), in less time
+than it takes to write about, sticks and odds and ends for a fire, over
+the ashes of which they broiled the meat, holding it over the heat on
+long skewers of wood. The meat was brought to us cooked, still on these
+skewers, and each one cut off, or had cut off for them by The Jehu, the
+portion he or she preferred, and a very hearty and merry meal was made
+by all. The resulting silence of repletion was only broken by a murmur
+from The Saint of "My heart is full," which sentiment, anatomically
+amended, was echoed by all.
+
+[Illustration: _Expanse of Alfalfa_.]
+
+When active exertion was once more possible everyone repaired to the
+banks of the Waters Meet, and a spot being found where there were no
+dead fish lying about, the ladies (under the tutorship of Our Guest and
+The Jehu) indulged in a little rifle-shooting at bottles. We fear that
+we cannot record any marvellous marksmanship on their part, for the
+bottles were still bobbing about on the water when the ladies' party
+retraced their steps to the "camp." A cup of tea was suggested before
+the returning drive, and it was thought possible (though not probable)
+that The Kid might be useful on this occasion. However any hopes in this
+direction were speedily dispelled when (after a great deal of noise and
+talk) she appeared with a thick black liquid, which proved absolutely
+undrinkable. True it was poured from a tea-pot, but anything less like
+"tea" as one usually meets it at 5 o'clock, could scarcely be imagined,
+and the air seemed full of the unspoken query, "Has everyone a use in
+this world?" The drive back to the estancia house was as pleasant as
+that of the morning, and there we found the Chinaman (who, owing to the
+strenuous exertions of The Chaperon, now appeared with considerably less
+hair, and obviously a more swollen head), had gauged correctly the
+incompetency of The Kid, in the brewing of his native beverage, and
+consequently had prepared a beverage which might pass for tea, and was
+enjoyed by all. After this refreshment a move was made, the luggage had
+gone on, and the party followed in their two coaches. We now began to
+approach a more pleasing country, and drove through little montes of
+scrub and trees, with a few bright-coloured verbena and cacti growing
+near the ground, making a brave show, and that larger optunia, the
+prickly pear, with its silver grey appearance and the bright crimson of
+its fruit showed up occasionally against the low trees. Altogether, the
+land had a more homelike and less expansive appearance, as it was broken
+up by these little groups of trees. It was a glorious drive. We were
+favoured with another exquisite sunset which shed weird and beautiful
+light over this strangely quiet and empty country. As the four-horse
+char-à-banc had started some minutes ahead of the more modest two-horse
+vehicle, it was to be supposed that it would reach the destination, Los
+Moyes, first, and we hear that there was some consternation expressed by
+the party of the smaller coach when, on their arrival they found that
+nothing had been heard, or seen, of the more ambitious vehicle. However,
+The Chaperon on being appealed to, impassively murmured "They're all
+right," and started to give orders for unloading, and putting up beds
+and generally arranging matters as if the section house belonged to him,
+and this callousness on his part, we are told, calmed the others
+sufficiently to allow of their enjoying the remnants of the sunset,
+undisturbed by any thoughts of the horrible fates which might (but were
+not likely to) have overtaken their companions.
+
+Certainly Los Moyes section house is most prettily situated, with an
+expanse of alfalfa beyond the little front garden, and trees in the
+distance opening to show a glimpse of the smallest lake. There are three
+of these lakes not far from the house, and fishing is carried on, by
+means of spearing, in their waters. Long after the last trace of sunset
+had faded from the sky, The Jehu appeared with his coach, and a rush was
+made by the hosts of Los Moyes, and their earlier arrivals, to ascertain
+the cause of this delay. All anxiety was quickly allayed by one glance
+at the face of The Instigator. He was exuberant with joy. The rest of
+the occupants of the coach seemed rather less excited, and more weary,
+as they explained that The Instigator had sighted in the far offing a
+steam plough, and despite murmurs of "the dinner waits and we are tired"
+from The Delineator and The Wild Man, he insisted on investigating that
+plough, in fact on trying it himself, and it was with difficulty he was
+persuaded to return to the coach, and continue the drive home. We
+believe the credit for this latter achievement is due to The Delineator,
+who, with tact worthy of a diplomat, suggested that if an early return
+to the ploughing were made next morning, photos could be obtained of the
+machine and its work. This bait was successful, and The Instigator was
+gently enticed away with promises of "to-morrow."
+
+[Illustration: _Disc-Plough at Work._]
+
+[Illustration: _Roadmaker and Railroad Builder_.]
+
+After everyone was assured that everyone else was safe, The Instigator
+came back from his Elysium, dreamily to finish the quotation of The
+Delineator and The Wild Man with "Said Gilpin, So am I," and we all sat
+down to dinner, during which meal much merriment was caused by a
+difference of opinion between The Saint and her host on "dogs and
+species of dogs." Our enemies, the mosquitoes, were not so virulent as
+usual to-night, perhaps owing to the eucalyptus trees which are growing
+near the house; anyhow the party could venture to sit out after dinner
+on the verandah, which was already covered with beds for the
+accommodation of some of the party. Thus, with an audience seated on
+chairs and beds, The Instigator talked of the plough and of its
+marvellous work in opening up hitherto unused tracts of land. Want of
+labour has retarded development considerably, and until quite recently
+the northern camps were very much handicapped by the lack of labourers,
+and of men with brains to guide the labour. Not only was there a
+deficiency of men, but often so many of the working bullocks were
+drafted off to the forests for timber haulage, that it left a sparseness
+of them for agricultural purposes. The remedy, however, presented itself
+by the utilisation of the traction engine. The breaking-up of fresh
+lands has always been the trouble facing the colonist.
+
+In dry weather it is almost impossible to get the plough, drawn by horse
+or bullock, into the ground, and the drought so punishes the working
+animals that often when rain comes they are too weak for their work, and
+the colonist is unable to take the best advantage of the season, but
+mechanical ploughing obviates all this, and gives him the virgin land in
+such a condition that with the means at hand he is able to cultivate an
+area sufficiently large to ensure him success.
+
+As we sat thus on the verandah in the moonlight, plans were made for the
+following day. It was decided that a visit to the plough should occupy
+the morning, and a row on the lake, or ride round it, the afternoon,
+before proceeding to Lucero. Fishing was spoken of, but we could not
+manage everything in the short time we had at our disposal at Los Moyes,
+so we found that probably the fishing would have to be given up. Thus,
+in the security of the possession of clear consciences and mosquito
+nets, the party retired to rest.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Prepaid advertisements received at the office of this paper before 6
+p.m. will be inserted in the next day's issue.
+
+"M.L." writes in answer to "O.G." that the quotation he gives is from
+the writing of the Persian poet Sâdi. The quotation is quite correct,
+for though Sâdi travelled for a great number of years in Europe, Asia,
+and Africa, he never travelled with the present Company in the
+Argentine, therefore he did not realise that the sleep of the bad could
+disturb the good. Modern thought is inclined to differ from his views.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+LOST.--Two rubber sponges and two blankets. When finished with, please
+return to the Manager, Michelot.
+
+£10 REWARD.--Lost, one pearl-drop ear-ring; may be under the carpet.
+Finder will be rewarded as above, on returning same to "T.S.," Offices
+of this Paper.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 4.
+
+_Tuesday, March 29th, 1910._
+
+This morning, alas! did not fulfil the promise of last night's sunset,
+for a drizzling rain was falling when the party collected for breakfast,
+and we were afraid that not only would the fishing expedition be
+impossible, but also that the ploughing inspection might have to be
+postponed, and all were anxious, after the enthusiasm of The Instigator,
+to see that engine at work. Our host had sent some men out in the early
+morning to secure fish for our delectation, but they were unable to
+spear more than one, and this large aquatic animal was now hanging up
+under the verandah, causing a great deal of interest to the various
+curious members of the band; needless to say, The Instigator was busy
+divesting the fish of scales, examining them under his ubiquitous
+microscope, and insisting on everyone observing the marvels of Nature
+shown in this manner. We think that this was the psychological moment
+when the rest of the party began to appreciate the powers of that
+microscope, and insinuations were made to the owner that it would be a
+pity to take such a beautiful pocket instrument back to Europe, in case
+any accident should happen to the boat during the voyage, and the
+microscope be lost.
+
+The Delineator and The Wild Man appeared to be the chief favourites for
+the prize, and knowing the acquisitive propensities of The Chaperon, all
+were surprised to note his passiveness during the competition; however,
+he explained his inertia by saying that his sleep had been disturbed by
+visions for which no microscope was needed. He offered to sketch what he
+had seen, but could give no more definite description in words than
+"figures on the blind" and "streaming hair," so he was left alone to
+recover his nerve. The Jehu then pointed out that his prophecy had
+proved correct, and the misty rain had blown off, leaving a clear sky
+and fine weather, so a start was made _en masse_ for the scene of the
+ploughing operations. A slight lameness on the part of one of the steeds
+made it necessary for the smaller coach to return for change of animals
+after a few hundred yards. The Wild Man occupied the few minutes of this
+delay to the best possible advantage. The owner of the house and
+chattels was away, and The Wild Man, stimulated by The Chaperon made a
+very productive tour of the rooms and verandah, resulting in great
+satisfaction to himself.
+
+When the coach was ready with fresh horses, and The Wild Man had
+satisfied himself that nothing of value had escaped his observation,
+another move forward was made, and on arriving at the ground the smaller
+party found that the occupants of the first coach were already on the
+plough, having ousted the colonists for the time being. This plough was
+working on rough virgin ground, turning over more land in one hour than
+two men and four horses can do in England in a whole day. Each member of
+the party took their turn on the plough, and enjoyed the pleasure
+derived from turning over the untouched soil, and of feeling that they
+were helping to start the development of Nature's truest source of
+wealth. The engine was drawing twenty disc-ploughs, and could plough
+twenty-eight to thirty acres of land a day, week in and week out.
+
+Until recent years land in the Argentine Republic has been ploughed in
+small areas by animal labour, the farmer or colonist often employing the
+members of his family to assist him, and thus saving expense. Owing,
+however, to the immense harvests and the vast tracts of country awaiting
+development, it has become necessary to work on a much bigger scale, and
+to bring in the aid of machinery. In some places the ordinary form of
+steam plough has presented many practical disadvantages. They are heavy
+and unwieldy, and apt to sink in soft ground, from which they are
+extricated with difficulty. This is likely to cause damage, or more
+serious accidents, through explosion. Further, they require a constant
+train of water-carts and fuel wagons, and a staff of at least six
+persons to work them. At the spot where this engine was working the
+latter objections were obviated, as both wood and water were plentiful.
+In general, these difficulties are largely overcome by the adoption of
+the naphtha motor engine, which has been brought to a state of
+considerable perfection in Great Britain and the United States. It can
+be employed not only for ploughing and threshing, but also for traction,
+excavation, and embankment work, etc. An engine and plough will break up
+one hectarea of camp per hour, and some of these machines with two
+relays of workmen will break 108 hectareas per week. In a month of only
+twenty-three working days they will break up a league of camp.
+
+[Illustration: _Ploughing Virgin Camp._]
+
+The price of naphtha is gradually decreasing in the Argentine Republic,
+and the oil wells of the country will probably make the cost of fuel
+even less by-and-by than it is to-day.
+
+Areas of fertile camp, which have hitherto lain fallow, owing to their
+being intersected by canadas, and difficult to get at, can now be
+treated by the motor plough, with the result that their value will
+rapidly rise. In an actual case near the Central Cordoba Railway, people
+are to-day offering $118 per hectarea for land which was bought two
+years ago for $25 per hectarea, but during the two years it has been
+thoroughly ploughed and drained by mechanical means.
+
+In nearly all the northern lands small trees grow irregularly all over
+the camp, and in order to plough the land these trees must be dug up.
+Machines are manufactured in the United States to deal with land
+containing tree roots. They perform the double operation of cutting
+roots under ground and ploughing up the surface, but they have not yet
+been introduced into the Argentine in large numbers. Other machines dig
+holes for fence posts at the rate of fifty holes per hour, and they can
+be so accurately gauged that the posts may be firmly fixed without
+expending much labour in ramming.
+
+The naphtha engine is likewise used with great advantage for traction
+purposes. A striking instance of this is to be found at Rio Gallegos,
+where many naphtha engines are engaged in the work of carrying wool over
+a track of more than 300 kilometres, a feat which would be quite
+impossible with animal labour, owing to the rocky and broken condition
+of the roads.
+
+As the Santa Fé Land Company owns a great diversity of land, they have
+used both the steam traction and the naphtha engines, and time will show
+which machine is to be recommended.
+
+It is a pity that the agricultural implement importers of Buenos Aires
+should have recently formed themselves into a ring to lift prices,
+because their doing so will certainly tend to lessen the progress which
+agriculture is making in the Argentine. These combinations, however,
+will not deter the Company from continuing its "march of progress," but
+it comes hard on the colonist, who, after all, is the chief factor in
+building up the fortunes of the great importing houses of Buenos Aires.
+
+One of the greatest competitors of the British-built traction engine is
+the Hart-Parr oil engine, a splendid agricultural tool, which is
+invaluable where ordinary fuel is not easily procurable.
+
+It was with great difficulty The Instigator could be persuaded to leave
+the plough, and at one time his enthusiasm (and the engine) carried him
+out of sight, and those remaining at the starting-point grew speculative
+as to whether he would return before dark. However, a recommencement of
+drizzling rain apparently cooled his ardour, and restored him to the
+party. The nomads gladly turned their thoughts and coaches towards the
+section house, realising as they went the sweet truth of the words, "The
+ploughman homeward plods his weary way." Lunch awaited them, and the
+fish of the morning appeared in a more pleasant guise, to be enjoyed by
+all. After lunch, the rain showing no signs of clearing off, the party
+had to give up all idea of the lake proper, but watched one form in
+front of the house instead, and wondered how it would be negotiated when
+the time came for an onward move. So they sat on chairs, baggage and
+benches under the verandah, and tried to keep awake, while observing
+the steady downpour. One member of the party at last gave up the
+struggle against the inevitable, and sank gracefully into the arms of
+Morpheus, represented by the bags of biscuits and other impedimenta. A
+photo was secured of him as he lay half concealed amongst the
+portmanteaux, packages and "pan." We refrain from publishing it, because
+the chief feature of the picture is in the boots of the sleeper. (We
+trust no weak humour is intended in the preceding paragraph?--EDITOR.)
+
+[Illustration: _Hart-Parr Engine, drawing Roadmaker_.]
+
+A slight diversion was caused by a repacking of some goods after lunch.
+It seems that the bottles, with contents (a most important item), had
+been forgotten, and The Wild Man was approached with a request that the
+bottles might be transported to Lucero in his bag; of course, he
+cheerily acquiesced, but as the whole of the contents of his bag had to
+be turned out to pack the bottles scientifically, and as that bag
+happened to be the same receptacle in which The Wild Man had secreted
+the various articles collected during his tour of appreciation this
+morning, developments were interesting to all, save to the man who had
+laboured under the delusion that several horns and other articles which
+appeared from the bag, were still in his own possession. However,
+probably remembering The Wild Man's character (_vide_ page 205), he said
+nothing, but calmly looked on as his goods were repacked and removed
+from his sight for ever. All honour to such unselfishness.
+
+After a cup of tea and farewells, the ladies were transferred to the
+coaches in a highly skilled manner, and a damp drive to Lucero followed.
+One sheet of drizzling rain surrounded us all through the journey, and
+none were sorry when, after a side slip or two, the coaches drew up (not
+before it was quite dark) outside the estancia house. A change into dry
+garments was very welcome, and there was to be noticed for the first
+time since the start of the Tacuruers, a dull air of respectability
+over the party, as they collected for their evening meal.
+
+Shirt fronts and pretty frocks appeared once more, for here we had a
+lady presiding over the table. Still the old proverb proved true "Fine
+feathers do not make fine birds," and some members of the party did not
+live up to their costumes. It may have been the good dinner, or the
+genial glow of a fire that upset their behaviour, but the fact remains
+that there were two or three unusual occurrences during the course of a
+merry meal. The Kid was observed to be burying her face in a spoonful of
+jelly, and others seemed to be performing a sort of a general post
+during the repast. However, all ended well, and after coffee various
+home pets were introduced by our hostess, who is a devoted lover of
+animals. A nutria appeared and some friendly dogs, and we heard of tame
+foxes and diminutive ponies to be seen next day. It was a great regret
+to everyone that The Delineator did not put in an appearance for dinner;
+he pleaded headache and retired to bed early, perhaps in the hope of
+getting some sleep before The Instigator came to share the room.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+HARD CASE NO. 1.--"T.K." writes to inquire the proper procedure under
+the following circumstances:--"A lady receives a plate of jelly at
+dinner, the gentleman on her right at once takes up her spoon and
+commences to feed her with the jelly." What should she do? And if she
+allows herself to be fed, is it etiquette, this year, for the gentleman
+on her left to give her a slight push, which results in her nose meeting
+the jelly in the spoon? We offer the problems to our readers, and a
+prize will be awarded for the best solution sent in.
+
+LOST.--One pair deer's horns, nicely coloured. If this advertisement
+meets the eye of T.W.M. the owner would be very glad to have the horns
+returned to Michelot, but does not wish to make a point of it.
+
+FOUND.--The reward of £10 for lost ear-ring is withdrawn; owner found
+lost property herself, and has paid for her advertisement.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 5.
+
+_Wednesday, March 30th, 1910._
+
+
+Much to everyone's relief The Delineator appeared at breakfast looking
+himself again; he replied to the enquiries showered upon him that his
+indisposition could be explained in the words used by Herbert Spencer,
+when he defined life as "The continuous adjustment of internal relations
+to external relations." The Delineator said that that formula, when one
+considered the various cookings, including the Oriental style we had
+lately sampled, exactly described the cause of his passing illness, from
+which he was now happily recovered.
+
+The morning was bright, and nothing but the drying mud remained to
+remind us of the rains of yesterday. At breakfast some strange tales
+were told of a frightened nutria which generally slept peacefully under
+a wardrobe in the dressing-room; but last night the room had another
+occupant, whose sleep was not so peaceful as that of the nutria, and at
+the first sound of a snore the poor animal was so scared that it leapt
+from its usual bed and rushed round the room till it found a way of
+escape, through the window, to a more restful soot.
+
+Cattle-dipping was to be the sight of the morning, and as soon as the
+out-door menagerie was explored, under the guidance of our hostess, who
+has a wonderful knack with all animals, the coach and cavalcade of
+riders set forth to the scene of operations. Here we found a large
+number of animals ready to be dipped. This process is necessary to clean
+the animals from the garrapata. This is a tick which has been, and still
+is, the terror of the north. It is the means of transmitting to cattle
+the disease known as "Texas Fever." The rough native cattle do not
+suffer badly from this fever, but any newly imported fine stock from the
+south generally succumb to it.
+
+Time after time wealthy men who realized the menace this pest was to the
+north have attempted to fight it, but their efforts have not been
+successful. Often their loss has been immense, sometimes as many as 95%
+of the total animals brought into the neighbourhood from the Province of
+Buenos Aires have died.
+
+Undoubtedly these constant failures helped to give the northern district
+a bad name, but the experiments with the animals should have been
+carried on by means of acclimatisation. Animals for the north should be
+carefully handled, and with constant vigilance, adapted to their
+surroundings. These are the principles on which the Santa Fé Land
+Company have been working, and they confidently predict that before long
+they will be selling pedigree bulls with tick on them. When this is an
+accomplished fact, another great barrier to the progress of the north
+will have been broken down.
+
+The cattle tick has two phases in its life.
+
+[Illustration: _Cattle leaving Dip._]
+
+After establishing itself on the animal, the tick becomes a blood
+sucker, and at certain seasons animals running wild over unbroken camps,
+become literally covered with these bichos; consequently the cattle fall
+back in condition, and the mortality amongst them mounts up to an
+appallingly large percentage. To obviate this the dip is used, and has
+come into general use. The animals are collected from afar, and brought
+into the corral (a strong enclosure), from which there is a wooden
+passage, having many contrivances useful for marking, branding, and
+dehorning cattle, all of which are used in their due season; but for
+dipping purposes this passage terminates in a precipitous slope, and the
+animals are gently forced along it from the corral to plunge suddenly
+into a prepared bath of a strong solution, which kills every tick; so it
+follows, that if the animal has been totally submerged, it is absolutely
+free from the parasite. The object of dipping is to kill all kinds of
+insects and parasites which trouble the bovine race; especially so the
+common Louse (the Dermatodectis Bovis) which is the scab producer. The
+worst pest is, however, the cattle tick or Garrapata, and known under
+the scientific name of Boophilus Annulatus.
+
+This latter is the harbinger of the microbe of Texas Fever or Tristeza,
+as it is known in the Argentine.
+
+The remedies that are principally employed are of a tarry basis and
+prepared so as to be easily mixed with water, usually in the proportion
+of 1 to 100.
+
+The amount of mixture used is 2.60 litres, and the cost works out at 10
+cents. per head.
+
+The greatest number of animals that the Santa Fé Land Company have been
+able to put through the dip in a day is 6,700, working from 6 a.m. to 5
+p.m.
+
+Animals certainly are frightened the first time they take this bath, but
+very soon they find the comfort of its effect, and come to like and
+enjoy it. The cattle we saw dipped to-day had mostly been through the
+process several times before, and walked calmly down the passage,
+seeming to enjoy their scramble through the dip. On emerging from the
+dip, the animals stand in a small corral on the other side, and are kept
+there for a while to allow the liquor to drain off their hides, and find
+its way back to the tank.
+
+Some of the younger animals seemed scared at the first plunge, and
+though a very great point is made of the fact that they must all be
+collected and driven into the corral and down the passage, with the
+utmost gentleness, some of them grew so disturbed at the unusual
+proceeding, that they leapt on to the animal in front instead of sliding
+down the dip as the older animals do. However, there are always plenty
+of men under the superintendence of the mayor-domo to see that no harm
+comes to any animal, and though in the early days of dips, broken legs
+were not unusual occurrences, nowadays there are very seldom any
+accidents, though thousands of animals may be dipped in a few hours. One
+man holds a curious sort of wide blunt prong, with which he presses the
+heads of any animals, who have not been totally immersed, under the
+liquid as they pass him, thus ensuring the destruction of all parasites.
+
+After this inspection The Instigator and company were taken on to see
+land which was being broken by bullocks, and thence to the Rio Salado,
+(which we are hoping to negotiate much further north to-morrow), and
+returned in time for lunch. After a short pause for rest and a cup of
+tea, the party, this time with their host and hostess, set off for
+various windmills, earth tanks, etc., which were of recent erection, and
+were to be reviewed by The Instigator. Everything he saw seemed to give
+satisfaction, and a weary but happy band returned to the house for
+dinner, in the course of which some native dishes were introduced to us.
+
+Another lovely sunset favoured us this evening as we drove homewards,
+and we hear that My Lady and The Wild Man almost came to a serious
+quarrel over the shapes of various beautifully tinted clouds. One said a
+certain cloud resembled a bear, the other said it was exactly like a
+pork pie "shot" with a diamond tiara, and the matter was still under
+bitter discussion long after the cloud in question had faded away into a
+nebulous mist. The evening was calm and still, and we all sat outside
+after coffee, discussing the unknown journey of to-morrow, and the
+perils that might befall us on our way across the camps. The Instigator
+talked emphatically, and quite unnecessarily, of "an early start is
+imperative," till we all grew tired of his insistence and retired to
+bed, where some of the party wondered under what circumstances they
+would be sleeping to-morrow.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CORRESPONDENCE.
+
+     LUCERO, _March 30th, 1910._ DEAR SIR,
+
+     May I use the valuable medium of your paper for the purpose of
+     announcing that anyone who wishes to accompany the explorers on the
+     excursion, under the guidance of The Jehu and myself to the wild
+     north, must be ready, decently clothed and fed, with a supply of
+     patience and drinkables in their personal luggage, not later than 6
+     a.m., to-morrow, March 31st, 1910.
+
+     I am, Yours, etc., THE INSTIGATOR.
+
+     P.S.--While taking suitable precautions for the safety and
+     happiness of those who entrust themselves to our care, we wish it
+     to be understood that we cannot hold ourselves responsible for any
+     loss of wearing apparel or other goods, temper, meals, or rest,
+     caused by rain, mosquitoes, frogs, snakes, overeating, or the
+     incompatibility of other passengers, or from any cause
+     whatsoever.--T.I.
+
+     _To the Editor of "The Tacuru."_
+
+     _March 30th, 1910_.
+
+     SIR,
+
+     We should be glad to know if anything can be done to stop the
+     public nuisance in the shape of the amalgamation of two members of
+     the party, who are obviously descended from some long ago Christy
+     Minstrels. We believe that, taken separately, one at a time, at
+     long intervals, the aforesaid members can be tolerated for a few
+     minutes (personally, we find them nauseating to a degree, under the
+     most favourable circumstances), but together, when they attempt to
+     be bright and amusing, and fancy they have a sense of humour and
+     intelligent wit, they are absolutely impossible. They might have
+     been useful (say in 1500) as the final torture decreed by the
+     Inquisition, but in this year of grace of 1910, they are
+     unwarrantable, and we shall be grateful if immediate steps can be
+     taken for their separation, if not for their entire suppression. We
+     are, Dear Sir, still suffering from violent headaches, caused by
+     being shut up in the same coach for three hours with these
+     imbeciles.
+
+     Yours truly,
+
+     T.D. and M.L.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+HARD CASE No. 1.
+
+The prize of five cents has been awarded to a correspondent O.G. (who is
+requested to forward his real name and address as soon as possible) for
+the best solution to the Hard Case we published yesterday. He says that
+in those circumstances the lady should undoubtedly allow herself to be
+fed, and should do all in her power by opening her mouth widely, and
+turning her head slightly in the direction of the gentleman on her
+right, to assist him in his self-imposed task, and thus to avoid giving
+him the impression that he had committed an unusual social solecism in
+commencing to feed her.
+
+Numerous correspondents have sent in solutions, but we consider the
+above the best. Several answers have also been sent to the second part
+of the question, and all agree that the gentleman on the left had no
+shadow of excuse for causing the lady's nose to rest in the jelly. Such
+a proceeding is totally without precedent in the highest circles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 6.
+
+_Thursday, March 31st, 1910._
+
+THE LARGEST CIRCULATION OF ANY DAILY PAPER PUBLISHED ON THIS TRIP.
+
+Everyone was astir early this morning, remembering The Instigator's
+final warning last night of the necessity for an early start, but, on
+assembling for breakfast at 7 a.m., The Instigator himself was missed.
+His hawk-like eye (we apologise to Our Guest) had noticed some Galpon,
+or drinking trough, or something, which he must, of course, investigate
+before leaving Lucero, and dragging off The Delineator and The Jehu, he
+quite forgot breakfast and the "early start," as he fussed over his
+new-found interest, and it was not until he was captured forcibly by a
+search party that his companions were allowed to come in to
+breakfast--after the rest of the party had finished. Much to everyone's
+delight the morning was bright and fine, and all promised favourably for
+the excursion into the unknown.
+
+While waiting for the start, considerable interest was caused by the
+home-building operations of some birds, who were constructing a nest
+under the eaves of the outbuilding, and manipulating the mud for its
+construction in a most clever manner. One bird flew off to get some mud
+while the other energetically fashioned the last piece into shape in the
+nest, then, when the first returned, the second bird flew off to get her
+contribution of clay; so the moulding of that nest grew apace while we
+watched its progress.
+
+Before we set out a pleading message came (and it was not the first,
+either) from those left at headquarters, begging us to give up our
+exploration scheme, and, in view of weather reports, to return in peace
+to the civilisation of San Cristobal; but needless to say, nothing
+daunted, The Instigator still kept to his determination to see all there
+was to be seen, and the more people try to dissuade him from a thing,
+once he has decided to do it, the more fixed becomes his intention to do
+that thing. So, expostulations were useless, the final preparations and
+farewells were made, a last communication held with Our Hostess at
+Cristobal, before our passing into the wilds, and the Tacuru coaches
+with their freight of precious humans, and still more precious food and
+drink, started off from their pleasant rest at Lucero. Someone was heard
+to murmur as the coaches drove off--
+
+    "Then hey! for boot and horse, lad,
+      And round the world away;
+    The Instigator _must_ have his tour, lad,
+      And _never_ will give way!"
+
+But this puerile parody met with the indifference it deserved, and,
+accompanied by the Section Manager, we commenced our journey, travelling
+for some hours over the land which is in his charge. "Monte," too,
+seemed to consider that his presence as a guide and friend would be
+necessary to the party, and came along with us; he is a "wild" dog of
+the deerhound type, who was taken as a tiny puppy from a litter found in
+a wood near Los Moyes, and has ever since been devoted to his captors.
+There is a calm air of disinterested abstraction about "Monte" which is
+very satisfying, and he is undoubtedly a philosopher. One of the two
+Indian guides we picked up during the day's journey also had a dog, but
+it was of a very different appearance and character to "Monte." "Monte"
+looked on mankind in general as needing his care and supervision, while
+the little black smooth-haired terrier felt "the great passion" for one
+alone. His master was evidently his god, and if he lost sight of
+"master" for two minutes it was really touching to hear his cries,
+almost like those of a child, as he tried to trace his master through
+the shallow water which we sometimes crossed.
+
+His yelps as he splashed along, nose to the ground, almost voiced the
+sentiment:--
+
+    "Rank and wealth I pass unheeding,
+      Never giving them their due;
+    For my heart and soul are needing,
+      Nothing in the world but "YOU!"
+
+And he and his "YOU" were never very far apart.
+
+In a country where kindness to animals is not considered necessary, and
+is very rarely found, this example of devotion between dog and man was
+all the more noticeable and appreciated. Needless to say, as soon as The
+Saint observed it she wanted to "give the man a present," and was only
+restrained from doing so because she had nothing suitable for
+presentation in her luggage, or in that of The Instigator.
+
+About one o'clock we came to the banks of the Salado, concerning the
+crossing of which river we had heard so much. We had been told it was
+impossible and impassable; that the rains had swollen the river too much
+for a safe passage; that at the best of times the banks were too steep
+and slippery for carts to negotiate, and that all idea of crossing had
+better be given up. The Instigator and The Jehu merely smiled when they
+heard of these difficulties, but some members of the party had wondered
+how the traversing of that river was to be accomplished, and they were
+agreeably surprised, on reaching the spot chosen for crossing, to find
+that a tenant had built a narrow "tajamar," or earth bank, across the
+river, which at this place was not very wide. Everyone dismounted, the
+horses were taken out, and all hands were in request to pull the
+vehicles across. First went the coaches, then the luggage carts were
+dragged over. To illustrate the difficulties of the proceedings we
+publish one of the many photos taken, during the crossing of the
+tajamar. Our Guest was one of the first to help in the conveyance of
+these carts. Apparently, since the gate-opening episode, he has "learnt
+the wisdom early to discern true beauty in utility," for he is always to
+the fore when work is to be done, and in this case his athletic training
+proved the truth of the Yankee expression that "It's muscle that tells."
+The Delineator and The Wild Man, as usual, when real hard work presents
+itself, "thought the party would like photographs of it," and, armed
+with their cameras, retired to safe distances, where the work could not
+possibly interfere with them or they with it, and took photos of the
+progress of the carts. We cannot complain, however, of their action (or
+inaction, rather), for the resulting pictures make a good memorial of
+the crossing of the Salado by the "Tacuruers." The ladies rushed to
+assist when they saw that photos were being taken, but, as the carts
+were well over the danger line by the time the ladies were at the
+ropes, we have no pictured record of their deeds, which, we may note,
+were really quite valueless at this point.
+
+[Illustration: _Crossing the Salado._]
+
+[Illustration: _The Effect of a Long Drought_.]
+
+Once the horses, carts, and luggage were safely across the tajamar the
+more serious business of cocktails and lunch was thought of, and, in an
+incredibly short time, the usual asado of meat, brought from Lucero, was
+under discussion.
+
+The unfortunate sheep who were still spared were let out for a short
+run.
+
+The Kid, too, was set free in the hopes that she might possibly prove
+useful now, but, judging from her attitude during the preparations for
+lunch, we should say those hopes would not be fulfilled.
+
+As we rest after our arduous crossing of the Salado, our thoughts are
+inclined to wander to the awful tragedy enacted here in the year 1904.
+It was a disastrous year for many of the northern camp men. There was an
+appalling drought of long continuation, for which all the northern camps
+were totally unprepared; the river over which we have just passed became
+the concentration spot for all that is most terrible at such times. It
+is not exaggerating the case when we say that 15,000 animals (some of
+them having travelled south for 100 miles or more), forced by instinct,
+and guided by wire fences, came to drink from the foul, polluted chain
+of water-holes which then represented this river. One can imagine the
+horror and distress of it all--not a blade of grass for miles, where
+to-day the vegetation is luxuriant, and not a drop of water in this
+river on whose banks we are resting, only a few mud-holes in which
+hundreds of decaying carcases were embedded. This is what the cattle
+found after their long journey south, through which they were daily
+growing weaker. It is not surprising to hear that, at one place alone
+on the river-bed, over 3,000 hides were taken off dead animals, and,
+probably, it is well within the mark to say that at least another 1,000
+were lost. Well may we wonder, "Why this terrible suffering and loss?"
+And the answer comes back, "Human negligence." It was the want of wells
+which caused all this misery; cattle will bear drought for a long time,
+but the actual want of water maddens them and causes the death of
+thousands. If the northern camps are to be colonised and are to become
+prosperous, the first necessity is the obtaining of a supply of good
+water; second in importance only to the water supply is the fencing of
+the camps, by which means a control over the cattle is established;
+refined camps, better grasses, and alfalfa, will all follow in due
+course; and anyone who has studied these northern lands would have no
+hesitation in predicting that these camps will, in time, prove just as
+profitable as any in the vast Republic of Argentina, and this is saying
+a good deal, as those who have travelled over the rich southern camps
+will realise. But, for his own sake, and for the sake of the cattle in
+his care, let it be the first business of the estanciero to provide good
+and sufficient wells, so that the terrible history of 1904 may never be
+repeated.
+
+[Illustration: _Refined Camps._]
+
+However, the scene is different to-day, with a pleasant sunshine, the
+crisp air sweeping over the uncultivated camp of natural grasses, and
+plenty of water in the river; but we cannot linger, so, after the pipe
+of peace for some, and a short siesta for others, "the all-aboard" bugle
+was sounded, horses were put in, carts packed once more, and, after a
+farewell to our host--who was returning to the section house--we went on
+ahead into the wilder regions, and had a pleasant, though rather short,
+drive for two or three hours before The Jehu called a halt. He explained
+that we should require at least an hour for the unloading and erection
+of the tents, tables, etc., before dusk; therefore, as the sun was only
+a hand's breadth from the horizon (roughly speaking, an hour before
+setting), we must dismount. He had chosen a pleasant spot for the camp
+of the night, not far from a small ranch, and here the coaches halted.
+Of course the luggage carts could not come up until some time later, as
+their loads were so much heavier, and My Lady became even more popular
+than usual when she suggested that the wait should be beguiled with a
+cup of tea, and produced her tea-basket from the coach; true, we found
+that there was no tea, but My Lady had plenty of cocoa. Water was
+obtained from the house near by, and a very welcome cup of cocoa handed
+round, accompanied by an unexpected slice of cake which apparently
+appeared from nowhere, and which disappeared equally effectively, for it
+was decidedly useful fodder and appreciated as such by all.
+
+We discovered here that our friend "Monte" had declined to go back after
+lunch with his present master to Lucero, but had chosen to accompany his
+past master on this expedition. His presence was an agreeable surprise.
+He was found surveying the party with his calm scrutiny, and apparently
+he approved of our spot for camping, also of the cake.
+
+As The Chaperon could find no work to do before the carts arrived, he,
+for once, relaxed from his terrible strain of usefulness, and tided over
+the tedious hour by trying to "throw the knife" in the most approved
+cowboy manner. As each member of the party had had their "tea" (he was
+practising with the knife which was used for the carving of the
+cake--and anything else, when needed), no one objected to this harmless
+amusement on his part, provided he did not pitch the knife on to their
+toes; and, after long exercise, with the help of The Wild Man, who is
+an adept at these tricks, The Chaperon at last succeeded in "throwing
+the knife" to his satisfaction, and others' terror. A sigh of relief
+escaped the lips of those who were dodging the knife when they saw the
+luggage-carts looming in the distance. They at once drew the attention
+of The Chaperon to the approach of the carts, and were rejoiced to see
+him return the weapon to its sheath (in his leggings), and stiffen into
+the attitude of action once more.
+
+No sooner were the carts on the spot than every member of the party was
+at work, or pretending to be so. Poles were taken off the carts, luggage
+uncovered, canvas was everywhere, yells for "the mallet" alternated with
+the resounding blows struck, with the same, by the strong men of the
+band, tent-pegs bristled all over the ground, everyone wanted the hammer
+at the same time, and apparent chaos reigned for half an hour; then,
+behold! as by magic, the din ceased, two tents had been securely
+erected, floored with canvas, the luggage was placed under another
+covering of canvas, a table, with plates, knives, forks, etc., was ready
+in an open space, camp-stools stood around it, beds, blankets, sheets
+and pillows galore were in each tent, and the smell of roasting meat in
+the distance rose pleasantly upon the air. The place looked as if the
+party had been accustomed to camp there regularly once a week, so well
+was everything arranged. Nothing had been forgotten which could add
+comfort, for all hands had been working hard, and each peon, too, had
+done his share; in fact, the sight would have rejoiced the soul of the
+most ardent, red-tied Socialist, for surely never did a community carry
+out more thoroughly the principle of "each one working for the happiness
+of others." True, there was no trade union to limit their exertions, but
+that was an omission for which we may be thankful.
+
+As the dusk quickly deepened, the peons gathered round their fire, over
+which the meat was cooking, a little distance from the camp site; the
+lamps were lit and hung from poles, and the party looked with
+satisfaction on their handiwork. It would have made an interesting, and
+not unpicturesque illustration, if one could have obtained a photo of
+the "Primera Vista" camp that evening.
+
+But it was at this time, just when all seemed smiling and happy, that
+the travellers were to go through their first real trial, for here the
+discovery was made of a serious loss. It was spoken of in whispers at
+first, but gradually the whispers increased to a murmur as the loss
+became generally known; yet neither man nor woman quailed, and none
+could have told from their outward bearing the bitter struggle they were
+inwardly facing. A cynical traveller once said, after noting the
+innumerable number of statues in the land, "South America has evidently
+produced a phenomenal number of heroes," but we are inclined to think
+their tale has not been told if those who bore their trouble so bravely
+that night are to be "unhonoured and unsung." Think what it meant, you
+who may read this, in years to come, in civilised places, comfortably
+seated in your armchairs, conveniently near the cellaret, and,--honour
+our brave! They had at least two days to face (with no prospect of
+obtaining supplies anywhere) and they discovered, here, that _the case
+of whisky was lost,_ left behind, vanished--they knew not what, only
+that it had disappeared!
+
+    Theirs not to reason why,
+    Theirs not to moan or sigh,
+    E'en though their throats were dry,
+            Noble "Tacuruers"!
+
+True, the comforting thought that they still had a bottle and a-half of
+the precious drink with them may have helped them to keep their spirits
+up with the hope of pouring spirits down, but a bottle and a-half is
+not much amongst so many thirsty souls for three days, and, we repeat,
+that great courage and bravery was shown by the equanimity with which
+the party bore the news of their loss.
+
+A minor loss was that the dinner napkins were not forthcoming, but that
+surprised no one, for they were in the charge of The Kid, and, of
+course, she had forgotten them at Lucero. We believe she said something
+about their being "left to be washed" there, but no one listened to her,
+and we used glass cloths instead.
+
+At our first camp evening meal everyone did justice to the goods that
+The Chaperon provided. Coffee was not forgotten, and, after their
+dinner, the more musical members of the band tried to sing--it kept the
+mosquitoes off--and when "a catch" was attempted even the bicho colorado
+was cowed into silence. We had looked forward to hearing the guitar
+played by one of the peons here. He had brought his instrument with him,
+but, unfortunately, had dropped a large packing case upon it, which did
+not improve its tone, and this accident prevented our hearing the
+national dances played on a guitar in the open camp as we had hoped to
+do.
+
+Weary with the exertions of the day the party turned their thoughts and
+steps early towards those tents where rows of little bedsteads, each
+with its mosquito net above, looked so attractively inviting, and before
+long lights were out and peace reigned as far as possible.
+
+    "Thus done the Vales to bed they creep,
+    By whispering winds soon lulled asleep."
+
+Guards were set and they, with Monte, were left to protect the horses
+and camp through the night.
+
+CORRESPONDENCE.
+
+     _March 31st, 1910._
+
+     SIR,
+
+     I feel that, as I am in a measure responsible for the presence of
+     the two people to whom your correspondents of yesterday object, I
+     should like to apologise, through the medium of your paper, for the
+     inconvenience these two people have caused, and to assure your
+     correspondents that steps shall be taken to prevent a repetition of
+     the annoyance. The fact is, that both of them are so rarely out of
+     Bedlam at the same time that I had not realised the necessity for
+     keeping them apart, nor the danger of their amalgamation, but they
+     shall be kept in separate coaches in future, and I can only express
+     my sincere regret for the mischief and trouble they have caused.
+
+     I am,
+
+     Yours, etc.,
+
+     THE INSTIGATOR.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A correspondent writes to know if any of our readers can solve the
+following problem for her:--"'A' starts on a seven days' journey with
+eighty-seven horses, he loses two, one of which he finds next day, and
+at the end of the week has 110 horses." The enquirer has searched
+through her "Hamblin Smith" but can find no honest method of solution.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+EXPERT GUIDE.--Anyone requiring a really good guide, thoroughly
+conversant with the Chaco, ways of wild Indians and animals, please
+apply "T.W.M.," Offices of this paper. Good shot, can cook and sew,
+able to point out all the beauties of nature, animal and vegetable.
+Terms moderate. Inspires confidence in the most timid ladies by his
+winning smile.
+
+LOST.--One tin of gingerbread biscuits (Huntley & Palmer). No reward is
+offered, as they will probably be eaten by the time this advertisement
+is in print. If anyone would return the tin, as a recuerdo, to Lucero,
+advertiser would be obliged.
+
+LOST.--Lucero. Several good horses.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Several correspondents have written to know whether it is not a menace
+to the rest of the community for one member of the band to sleep
+promiscuously on the bricks, or anywhere else handy, at night. Two or
+three say they have tripped over him in the dark and consider it would
+be a safeguard if anyone preferring to spend the night in this way were
+compelled by law to burn an anchor or other light. They are quite
+willing to believe that the offender had had at least one "starboard
+light" at some period of that night, but that light had lost its power
+of illumination at the time our correspondents tripped over the
+prostrate figure, and they wish to suggest that in future, people
+sleeping out should use some means to safeguard unwary passers-by. (We
+give the complaint the publicity it deserves and trust steps will be
+taken to right the matter.--ED.)
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 7.
+
+_Friday, April 1st, 1910._
+
+ADVERTISE IN "THE TACURU"--THIS ENSURES YOUR WANTS BEING KNOWN IN EVERY
+COACH.
+
+
+We fancy that most of the party were awake to see the dawn this morning:
+it may have been that they only saw the first streaks of light between
+the openings of their tent as they lay in bed trying to soothe the
+itching of the mosquito bites, but we think that few were asleep as the
+sun rose gloriously from the mists on the horizon. It was a strange
+sight, the sudden flooding with bright sunlight of that rough camp land,
+which scarcely owned a tree or shrub. It may be the primitive barbarian
+lying dormant in all of us though hidden under generations of
+civilization, which makes us feel a close communion with Nature when we
+see her in these great uncultivated wastes; but, whatever the causes of
+the sympathy, these pictures, of wild untouched Nature, leave an
+impression and a longing more deep than any experience gained in years
+of civil life; none will ever regret having seen that sunrise on the
+plain, though all regretted the cause of their wakefulness this morning.
+
+Of course The Chaperon was up and clothed (he always seemed to be) and
+ready to get basins of water, looking-glasses, shaving materials and all
+luxuries for the others. The ladies were heard to enquire why he did not
+bring them early tea and hot water, but, on the whole, he combined the
+duties of valet and maid fairly efficiently.
+
+Rumour has it that The Chaperon had given instructions that he was to be
+called by the guard an hour before dawn, so, in the dark, he was
+awakened by hoarse whispers of his name and gentle shakings. After he
+arose it occurred to him that it felt more like the middle of the night
+than the morning, and he enquired of the peon what time it was, the
+answer coming in soft Spanish, "Can't say, the cocks have not crowed
+yet!!!" On investigation The Chaperon found it was scarcely 4 a.m., so
+spent the remaining two hours sitting round the camp fire with the
+peons, alternately dozing and sucking maté. We believe he heard some
+expert opinions on the subject of the "roncadors" of the camp during his
+vigil. At any rate he had full opportunity for proving the reality of
+Ruskin's words, "There is no solemnity so deep to a right-thinking
+creature as that of dawn." At the same time he was heard to murmur
+something to the effect that he would prefer a little less of the "deep
+solemnity" and a little more of "deep slumber" another morning.
+
+Scarcely were the toilets, and the packing of personal luggage,
+accomplished, before a request was made that the mosquito nets and beds
+might be removed for loading, and, as we emerged from the various tents,
+the breakfast-table greeted us ready laden with tea (from the kettle),
+sardines, jam, peons' biscuits, etc. True, the only milk procurable was
+some condensed milk, which had "gone solid," there were not enough
+knives to go round, and a few other irregularities, but no little items
+of that sort ever disturbed the temper of The Tacuruers; they simply
+remarked with the other "Autocrat of the Breakfast Table," "Difficulties
+are Nature's challenges to you," and used one spoon for all their cups,
+tore off lumps of bread with their fingers (when they could get hold of
+a loaf), and used the same plate and knife for jam and sardines alike,
+and enjoyed their early meal.
+
+[Illustration: "_Rich black alluvial Soil_."]
+
+There was one subject that did cause sore feeling, and that was
+mosquitoes. We had thought we knew all about them, we were proud with
+the conceit of nets, ammonia, and veils, but our pride had a fall.
+Comparatively speaking, we had only known mosquitoes theoretically
+before (though that knowledge was bad enough); last night we learnt of
+them practically, none of us had thought of _tucking in_ our nets, and
+mosquitoes seemed to swarm up under each net before we had been in bed
+for half an hour. Little peace did anyone get through those long night
+hours, and, though a voice came from one of the tents about 2 a.m.,
+remarking clearly above the intermittent snores, "Oh! how lovely," few
+echoed the sentiment, and the speaker assured us this morning that she
+was only dreaming, and that her words did not refer to insects of any
+kind, neither were they made in connection with the upheaval caused by
+"Monte" at one period of the night. He had taken up his quarters at one
+end of the ladies' tent, but was disturbed from his beauty sleep by the
+sudden barking of a dog outside the other end of the tent. This, of
+course, must be seen to; it was his duty, so, leaping up, he rushed
+through the tent, lifting up each one of the low beds, and their
+occupants, as he passed under them on his way to quell the outside
+noise. The ladies forbore to scream, though they thought of earthquakes,
+but settled down again to their occupation of trying to kill mosquitoes,
+quietly, in the dark, and to snatch moments of slumber occasionally.
+
+After breakfast, Our Guest was rather unkindly "put on" by The
+Instigator to dig holes, to ascertain how deep the rich, black, alluvial
+soil reached; the ladies energetically washed up the breakfast things,
+which occupation resulted in The Kid once more, and this time finally,
+being given notice to leave, without a character, owing to general
+incompetence, impertinence, and lack of ability to wash out tea-cloths.
+
+By 7 a.m. the coaches and carts were ready, horses rounded up, the
+"Primera Vista" camp was struck, and the march onward recommenced. But
+not before The Chaperon had pointed out a terror that "might have been."
+After breakfast he approached us with a stick held at arm's length, on
+which hung a dead, slimy-looking, grey snake, about 4 feet long. He
+explained that this reptile had crawled over the neck of one of the
+peons as he lay on the grass last night. This had happened before we
+went to bed, and we felt grateful to The Chaperon for having saved us
+from another horror last night by keeping the fact, and snake, to
+himself until we were leaving that camp.
+
+The first part of our drive to-day was a new experience; we had passed
+over a few ant-hills before on our journey, but now we came to a land
+where it was difficult, if not impossible, to dodge them; they literally
+covered the ground, and the South American ant-hill is a power to be
+reckoned with. It is not the yielding mass composed of soft earth and
+other heterogeneous materials as found in England, which can be
+demolished with a kick, should anyone have sufficient temerity to lay
+himself open to the attacks of the inmates by thus disturbing them; but
+the homes of the black ant, and the Amazon ant, in Argentina are quite a
+different affair. They are, usually, solid, hard masses of earth from
+three to four feet high, very wide at the base, and covered entirely
+with coarse grass. They present an unyielding obstacle to any vehicle,
+and the wheels of even a heavily laden cart make no impression on them,
+but they are not unlikely to cause the overturning of that cart, and
+even traction engines suffer from the sudden drop caused by these
+gigantic sugar-loaves. Therefore it will be easily realized that the
+innumerable ant-hills through, and over which, we drove, were no
+inconsiderable menace to the safety of the party, and it was only due to
+the great care and skill of our drivers in threading their way amongst
+these obstacles that the inmates of the coaches were not upset time
+after time. As it was, no accident of the slightest description
+occurred--only a few bumps and jolts as we ascended or descended one of
+the ant-hills, which are so difficult to discern in open camp, where the
+whole land is covered alike with long grass. The worst part of our
+travelling did not last more than three or four hours; then we came to
+smoother country, fewer ant-hills, and occasional small lagunas, the
+land growing slightly undulating, though still bare of trees, and, after
+another three hours' driving, during which we had many changes of horses
+and several "helps" from the guides over extra bad pieces of travelling,
+we could see in the distance the position of the Lake Palmar and the
+tops of the palms which grow on the farther shore.
+
+It was during this part of our day's journey that the peons made two
+captures of live animals in an armadillo and a nutria. These men have
+extraordinary good and far sight, and observe any movement in the grass,
+yards ahead of them. They at once killed both animals, for they are
+exceedingly fond of armadillo flesh, and cook the animal in its skin.
+
+It was decided that horses and drivers alike would require a rest when
+we reached the shores of the lake, and, after our cocheros had made
+futile attempts to cut figures of 8 with their respective four and
+two-in-hands on the invitingly firm, yellow sands which surround Lake
+Palmar, all dismounted, horses were taken out, and, while lunch was
+being prepared, the party wandered on the shores of the lake trying to
+find remnants of extinct monsters, fossilised palms, and other
+improbable things. The Instigator rushed up and down picking leaves to
+bits, collecting sand and examining it under the microscope (which is,
+as yet, his), tasting the water of the lake, and generally trying to
+find a way of teaching Nature how to improve on her own handiwork. It
+really seems a pity She does not engage him as her expert consulting
+engineer. My Lady and The Saint did discover a boar-hound's tooth on the
+sands, and two teeth of a nutria, very pretty in their long, gentle
+curve, white at the root and gradually deepening to a reddish-brown at
+the end; but both these finds were absolutely valueless, and, though
+there was talk of having the teeth set as brooches, etc., connoisseurs,
+such as The Wild Man, knew well that the "finds" would be dissolved to
+dust long before they could reach the civilisation of a jeweller's shop.
+
+The tiny banks which slope down from the camp to meet the wide
+stretching sands of the lake are covered with scrub and low trees of the
+acacia type, and, on one of these low trees, eked out with camp stools,
+the party, wearied with their search for curios, settled down to await
+their mid-day meal. It was gently broken to us that the sheep had at
+last been sacrificed, and would shortly appear before us in a different
+guise. The slaughter must have been most humane, for no one of us had
+heard the slightest cry or sound of distress, and now the flesh was
+being cooked. The peons would always prefer to cook all meat in the
+hide, if they were allowed to do so, and it is only with constant
+watching that they are prevented from thus wasting the valuable skins of
+animals. They are enormous meat eaters, which is scarcely to be wondered
+at, considering how scarce green food is. They live on meat, maté, and
+hard biscuits.
+
+The bright idea occurred to someone that a _hors-d'oeuvre_ would be
+acceptable, considering how long ago we had had our meagre early morning
+meal, so the only available article, a tinned Dutch cheese, was
+attacked; and none but those who have tried, under similar
+circumstances, one of the soft Dutch cheeses which one obtains in the
+Argentine, would be able to understand how very good it can be. As it
+was handed round (to everyone on the same knife), hunger, open-air, and
+the exercise of the ant-hills caused it to be appreciated more than
+usual, even beyond its deserts, if possible.
+
+As the party were thus collected (mostly with their legs tucked away to
+prevent the climbing operations of the black ants with which the ground
+was swarming), The Instigator took this opportunity to try to rid
+himself of some of the responsibility of the trip by calling a meeting
+(the whole nine were already there), and putting it to the vote as to
+whether The Kid, now that she had lost her companions the sheep, should
+be turned adrift to find her way back again as best she could, drowned
+in the lake, or allowed to accompany the party for the rest of the
+journey. A wild gleam of joy lit the eyes of everyone who knew anything
+of her at this prospect of getting rid of the trial. Both the ladies,
+and everyone who had known her for longer than the week, voted, hands
+and feet, for her extinction, but four of the men were foolishly too
+polite to express their real wishes. So she herself was left with the
+casting vote, and chose to go on! Thus The Instigator's well-thought
+plan to remove an incubus was frustrated. He was so disgusted with his
+failure in a laudable object that, directly after "lunch" (which meant
+each one cutting off from the half-sheep, that was handed round, the
+piece he or she preferred), he went off with his microscope trying to
+find other interests, and in a few minutes was growing unduly excited
+over a shrub on which he discovered some most unusual excrescences.
+These shapeless masses of earth, apparently growing on the shrub, he was
+examining from all points with the naked eye before submitting them to
+microscopic investigation, and it was only when Our Guest came up and
+removed some of the earth from one of the excrescences that The
+Instigator, who was watching intently, noted that the mass resolved
+itself into the shape of one of The Saint's shoes, which had been hung
+up on the shrub to dry after her lake-searching expedition. Foiled
+again, The Instigator collected The Delineator and My Lady, and started
+to walk to the northern end of the lake, where The Jehu could pick them
+up, when the washing, packing and harnessing allowed of an onward move.
+We are told that for once The Kid, perhaps stimulated by her recent
+narrow escape from total extinction, really did do some work here. It is
+true we only have her word, an indistinct murmur from The Chaperon, and
+some clean plates to vouch for the statement, as all the other members
+of the party remaining were lying in more or less graceful slumberous
+attitudes in carts, under trees, or anywhere else, enjoying forty winks.
+Some excellent photos were obtained of the sleeping beauties as they lay
+there resting, but their modesty caused them to beg for forbearance in
+the publication of any of the pictures thus obtained.
+
+Before the actual start was made, The Jehu, Our Guest, The Chaperon, and
+The Wild Man tried their hands at some revolver-shooting. Naturally, the
+drivers, after their long hours with the reins, could not do themselves
+justice with the more dangerous weapons, but, combined with Our Guest
+and The Wild Man, they left a fair show of broken bottles in the lake,
+rather to the surprise of the lookers-on.
+
+Neither of our cocheros could resist the further opportunity of figures
+of eight as we drove off on the hard sand, but we believe they were not
+encouraged in these exhibitions by their passengers, and, skirting the
+North part of the lake they came to a little ranch where they had
+arranged to meet the three walkers, who had discovered divers
+interesting specimens of animal, vegetable and mineral kinds during
+their very pleasant stroll round the lake. Here they were sitting at
+the ranch awaiting the arrival of the coaches, and they introduced the
+newcomers to a marvellous collection of tame birds with whom they had
+made acquaintance. The owners of the ranch had six or seven birds of
+different kinds, which flew about and pitched on anyone's shoulder or
+hand, or on the carriages, and were most friendly; in fact, one big bird
+was so willing to become attached to us that we could scarcely persuade
+it to leave the coach when we were ready to drive on.
+
+We allowed those who had driven to the spot a few moments in which to
+dismount and greet the neat little mistress of the ranch, with whom we
+had already made friends, and her pretty children. The roofing of this
+little ranch and its out-houses was most interesting. It was carried out
+entirely with trunks of palm trees. These, split in half and cleared of
+all sap, made very effective roofing, placed alternately in concave and
+convex form, so that the ridges of the two lengths of trunk placed bark
+upward rest in the hollow of the intervening trunk. Naturally, all rain
+water drains off the convex half into the concave trunk and flows down
+these gullies into the water course formed of another hollowed palm
+trunk running along the lower edge of the roof. A more suitable and
+rainproof roof could scarcely be designed. The mistress of the house was
+most anxious to entertain us to tea, but, having picked up our guide
+from Vera, who it was arranged should meet us here with letters, we
+could not spare time for further delay, and once more started off with
+the guide ahead of us.
+
+After leaving the ranch we turned to the eastward, and before long
+passed over the Calchaqui river (which is more generally known as the
+Golondrino here). This was not a difficult matter.
+
+After crossing the Calchaqui we enter quite a new country, the land is
+perceptibly higher, the grasses are finer and trees begin to appear.
+First we came to the tall palm trees on the edge of the forest, and very
+imposing they were, then small montes gave place to the regular woods
+which stretch North on this side of the river, and trees abound. The
+scenery was altogether more tropical. Occasional flocks of bright pink
+flamingoes made a welcome touch of colour as they stood on the edge of
+some little laguna, or, disturbed by the unusual approach of coaches,
+flew off in the distance. Hares were to be seen now and then, and
+sometimes even one of the small wild deer of the forest was noticed
+before it rushed off to the shelter of the trees.
+
+Unfortunately, about this time, the sun, which had been so friendly all
+day, became overcast with clouds, and the sky assumed a threatening
+appearance; but, notwithstanding the wise head-shakings of those who
+know the country (The Delineator and The Jehu in particular), the party
+refused to be downhearted, and asserted that rain was the most unlikely
+event, and, in any case, they intended to enjoy their present drive
+through scenery which was not unlike that which would be found in an
+English park; the great expanses were gone, and in their place we had
+slightly undulating stretches of grass bordered with trees of all kinds.
+The whole aspect of the land had changed and the country here was
+extremely pretty, though no distant views could be obtained owing to the
+thick growth of the trees and the impossibility of finding any but the
+slightest rising ground.
+
+We arrived, before long, at a little ranch, in the neighbourhood of
+which we were to encamp for the night. The spot was very different to
+our camp of last night, for here we were surrounded with trees, and near
+by a flock of sheep, belonging to the ranch, were feeding. Before the
+heavier carts could arrive, and the work of tent-erecting commence,
+there was plenty of time for a cup of tea, with the aid of My Lady's
+useful basket; but all the water that could be obtained from the
+so-called "well" at the ranch was half mud, and, though this was used
+with great success, we could only secure two mouthfuls of tea from each
+cup, as the rest of the contents was composed of mud. We believe The Kid
+was rather annoyed about this, and felt distinctly aggrieved, but she
+did not dare to give vent to her feelings, and the matter did not worry
+those who were looking forward to "cocktails" before dinner, and well
+they deserved those "cocktails," for by the time the carts arrived the
+atmosphere had become intensely close; a slight drizzle seemed only to
+add to the damp heat, and the work of unloading and erecting tents, and
+beds, and unpacking in that warm, steaming air, which was intensified
+under the coverings, was no light one; but here, again, everyone
+performed their quota, whether large or small, for the general good.
+Before long the tents were up. Three were erected to-night, as, owing to
+the rain, we should be obliged to have food under canvas. The Instigator
+caused great admiration by cunningly using trees as supports in the
+erection of the tents under his supervision, and thus hurrying matters
+on. Everything was finished, beds made, luggage under cover, the table
+laid ready in the tent, and lamps lit and suspended before the short
+twilight had given place to complete darkness, and The Saint once more
+earned the blessings and gratitude of all by thoughtfully insisting on a
+general "washing of faces." As she marshalled the party in front of her,
+and attacked each one with sponge and towel, we were irresistibly
+reminded of a board school; but that sponge of toilet vinegar, after the
+damp heat and all the work, was one of the most refreshing things
+imaginable, and everyone felt cleaner and more cheerful after this
+ablution, and ready to attack the poor little armadillo, which had been
+cooked; this meat tastes very much like sucking pig. The rain, which was
+coming down heavily by this time, was powerless to damp the spirits of
+the party as they sat down to dinner. They were only troubled because
+they feared this would be their last evening meal in camp, and that
+Civilisation might again claim them for her own to-morrow, for a great
+deal of the enjoyment of this trip has been due, undoubtedly, to its
+incomparable freedom. So they spent the time in eating, and holding a
+mutual admiration society meeting. Each decided (between the mouthfuls
+of mutton and armadillo) that every other member of the party was just
+the nicest person that he or she had ever met, and, as there was no one
+there to contradict the obviously erroneous statements, all were
+satisfied and content, and drank each other's healths with enthusiasm,
+and--whatever else was left. Someone even tried to murmur something
+kindly about The Kid. Above all, the Instigator was eulogised, and
+rightly, too, for his genial influence helped everything to go well; no
+one could have grumbled at the little inconveniences which they had had
+to put up with at times, while The Instigator was so cheerful and
+anxious for others' comfort and careless of his own through all. His
+interest in, and enthusiasm for, his Company know no bounds. Get him to
+hold forth, and he will tell you how, in the early days of the Company,
+matters were quite different from what they are to-day. The shares stood
+then at five shillings each, and the bankers refused to allow an
+overdraft of £2,000, and when it became absolutely necessary to have
+money he actually made advances out of his own pocket to supply the
+requisite funds.
+
+Shortly afterwards matters began to improve, and when he visited the
+property in 1900 he was able to send this reassuring message to the
+General Meeting:--"I honestly believe the worst is past, and that in
+future we shall progress."
+
+He always appraises the work of others whether the result of their
+operations is successful or not, and he will appreciate the mental and
+manual exertions expended on the undertaking by the employees of the
+Company at their true worth. All he asks of his colleagues and
+subordinates is that each one shall "play the game" in every sense of
+the word to the best of his ability. He never paints the prospects of a
+beginner in rosy hues; in fact, he has been known to speak of the
+hardships and privations which a young man must be prepared to go
+through on first joining the Company as being comparable to "the life of
+a dog." To-day the men who have been through those first years of
+necessary self-denial and hard work are grateful for the training they
+have received and anxious to work their best for the Company.
+
+For a long while the party sat talking of their experiences on this
+trip, and of the Company and its prospects. The travelling over this
+comparatively unknown land had been a revelation to most; the dormant
+wealth lying in the camp must be enormous, but men, money, and brains
+are needed to exploit it. Unfortunately, it is still difficult to get
+colonists for these more northern districts, but when the railway which
+is contemplated becomes an accomplished fact, as it assuredly must,
+people will be attracted further north, colonisation will be easier, the
+land will yield its hundredfold, and some one will, in time, have
+performed the great deed of "making two blades of grass grow where only
+one grew before." It may seem to those accustomed to the narrower life
+of towns, a lonely, empty life to spend one's years and energies
+improving these wild lands; but assuredly the man who labours here with
+the best that is in him, not only earns a great reward for himself in
+the gradual development and growth of that land, but has deserved well
+of mankind in general, and will, some day, receive his "Well done," than
+which there is no higher praise, as surely as those whose lives have
+been spent in the more public fields of civilisation or in military
+prowess.
+
+For some, obscure reason it is generally supposed that the man who
+spends his life in agricultural pursuits is bound to have his mental
+abilities dulled by the continuous round of duties connected with the
+land and the care of animals. The origin of this idea is difficult to
+imagine, unless it be that agriculture is the oldest and most necessary
+pursuit of mankind; but surely the man who has to keep a perpetual watch
+on wind, weather and workers, animal and vegetable kingdom and natural
+phenomena, and be ready to anticipate any change, besides being
+thoroughly in touch with all the latest improvements, mechanical and
+material, in reference to his calling, and conversant with the ruling
+prices in the best markets, cannot be held to be a man whose perceptions
+are becoming blunted by his business. It is certainly true that there
+are many who do "let things go," but that class is not confined to
+agriculturists alone, and in agriculture, as in all other callings,
+those who "let things slide" very shortly find that most things have
+slid away from them irrevocably. Certainly the Argentine is no place for
+the man disinclined for exertion. She holds rewards, and great rewards;
+but only for the resolute who are prepared to lead a strenuous and
+self-denying life of labour, exposure and fatigue, and who come to her
+determined to win the best from her rich lands, and to take every
+opportunity as it comes in their way for improving their knowledge.
+
+Plans were made for to-morrow's journey; there was talk, if the day was
+fine and the way possible, of going first south-east to the tannin
+factory at La Gallareta, then due north to Las Gamas, but it was feared
+that the recent heavy rains in this district would have made the
+undertaking of the two journeys on one day inadvisable, and the Indian
+guide persuaded the "leaders" that it would be wiser to go straight to
+Las Gamas to-morrow and leave the visit to the factory for Monday. This
+would give Tuesday for Santa Lucia and Wednesday for Vera. Sarnosa and
+Olmos could be visited from one or the other of these two estancias,
+and, leaving Vera on Friday afternoon, San Cristobal would be reached on
+Saturday evening.
+
+As we dispersed in the rain to our various tents, a slight thunder and
+lightning storm commenced, but, notwithstanding this, we were happy in
+the assurance that our troubles from mosquitoes were likely to be less
+virulent to-night, owing to our proximity to the sheepfold of the ranch.
+Therefore, as good disciples of the immortal Pepys, we quote--and with
+appropriate action--"So to bed."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENT.
+
+
+OUT OF WORK.--Advertiser wants situation as general help; might be
+useful in tea-taster's office; hard work not so much an object as high
+wages and comfortable living. Advertiser could take immediate situation.
+No references.--T.K., _Second Coach_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.
+
+
+T.C. writes in answer to the arithmetical problem of yesterday's date,
+"Yes, if A starts with 87 horses, loses 2, and finds 1, he does end the
+journey with 110, for he collects 24 more at the last estancia. Only
+experts can do this; hence your correspondent's failure to find a
+solution."
+
+LOST.--One watch and chain (said to be gold), trinkets attached
+containing several locks of hair and portraits of ten or twelve
+gentlemen. If finder would return portraits and hair, owner would be
+obliged.--T.K.
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 8.
+
+_Saturday, April 2nd, 1910._
+
+THE CIRCULATION OF "THE TACURU" WENT UP LITERALLY BY LEAPS AND BOUNDS
+YESTERDAY MORNING, FAR BEYOND THE EXPECTATIONS EVEN OF THE EDITOR.
+
+
+The morning dawned damp and dreary; rain had fallen steadily all night
+long, and still continues. Neither The Chaperon nor anyone else had an
+opportunity for seeing "the golden exhalations of dawn" this morning.
+To-day's "exhalations" were chiefly those of moisture, and the only gold
+we saw was supplied by the light of the paraffin lamps which The
+Chaperon, always on the look out to anticipate our wishes, provided for
+us to see our way to wash. The water for ablutions was obtained from the
+mud-hole which did duty for a well at the ranch, and its appearance was
+somewhat disconcerting. However, with skill, one could scoop up a little
+of the surface of the water for a splash without disturbing the thick
+stratum of mud at the bottom of the basin; things might have been worse,
+and everyone felt that on such a damp day washing at all was merely an
+æsthetic waste of energy. By the time dressing was accomplished it was
+sufficiently light for the lamps to be dispensed with, and we assembled
+for breakfast in a dull-grey atmosphere. Hot tea, even though half mud,
+was very good. We believe that the leaf of a certain cactus has the
+power of clearing water absolutely; if it is dropped in a vessel of
+water, it and the mud settle at the bottom, leaving the water quite
+clear; but though several varieties of cacti were tried this morning,
+none were successful; apparently the special kind did not grow around
+our camp.
+
+[Illustration: _Water Knee-deep._]
+
+No one seemed much disheartened by the rain; even the peons, though
+already wet through in their scanty garments, were cheerfully smiling as
+usual, with no thought of grumbling. Monte, too, was calmly ready to
+accompany us, despite the bad weather.
+
+Owing either to the skilful manner of tucking in the nets adopted last
+night, or to the neighbourhood of the sheepfold, mosquitoes had not
+troubled us nearly so much as on the previous night; only the continual
+flashes of lightning and the soft rumblings of thunder during the steady
+downpour had been able to disturb our deep slumbers.
+
+As soon as possible the tents were taken down, packing accomplished, and
+a start made. Fortunately the ant-hills were considerably fewer in
+number to-day, but the ground was ankle deep in water everywhere, and
+fallen tree trunks hidden under the, in some places, really deep water,
+formed a considerable danger in our path. However, again owing to the
+skill of our drivers, no accident occurred all through that long drive
+in unceasing rain, which shrouded all but the most immediate view. Of
+course, constant changes of horses were necessary, as, for eight hours
+we drove through water, above and below, to our destination. The
+accomplishment of that drive of his four-in-hand from the absolutely
+unsheltered position on the box was no small feat on the part of The
+Jehu; we all felt an even deeper admiration for his pluck and endurance
+than before, as he steadily pursued his way on that terrible day, when
+his whole body and especially his hands must have been numbed through
+and through with the cold and wet. The Chaperon, too, had an arduous
+day, though his work was not so strenuous as that of The Jehu. At one
+spot, when under trees we made a change of horses, The Chaperon was seen
+to be wading through water, knee deep, as he handed round the only
+refreshments available--ginger-bread, biscuits, beer and gin--to guests
+and peons alike, all drinking gratefully from the same small measure.
+That drive is something to be remembered; it was executed under the most
+trying circumstances with not a single complaint or grumble from anyone,
+but an increased thankfulness on the part of the passengers that they
+were in such good hands during the trip. The land through which we drove
+to-day is covered with trees of various kinds; large forests exist on
+the eastern side of the Calchaqui, bordering the river for its entire
+length; the trees of these forests are chiefly Algarrobo the wood of
+which is not unlike our walnut in appearance, but extremely hard; in
+days to come this timber will be used in great quantities for making
+parquet flooring. It seems almost incredible that the city of Buenos
+Aires should import millions of square metres of ready-made parquet
+flooring when the Argentine produces magnificent timber of far more
+suitable and better wearing quality for the purpose than any used in
+imported parquet. As we have journeyed eastward, trees have become much
+more numerous, and splendid timber is to be seen on every side. Most
+numerous amongst the trees is the Quebracho Colorado, which supplies one
+of the hardest timbers the world produces. The trees have a peculiar
+appearance, for their leaves are quite small and the trunks have a rough
+bark from which often hangs moss-like lichen, of which, by the way,
+cattle are very fond. The photo on the opposite page gives a general
+idea of a tree's appearance.
+
+The wood, which is light in colour when first cut, becomes dark red upon
+being exposed to light and weather, and it is intensely hard.
+
+[Illustration: _Quebracho Colorado Tree._]
+
+The word "quebracho" (pronounced KAYBRATSHO) signifies axe-breaking, and
+even modern tools do not retain their edge long when working on this
+wood.
+
+The wonderful durability of the wood renders it a perfect material for
+railway sleepers, and this has been appreciated by the Government of
+Argentina to such an extent that they have decreed that the laying of
+new railways is to be upon sleepers made of the hard woods of the
+Country.
+
+[Illustration: _Sleepers awaiting Transport at Vera._]
+
+The forests of the Santa Fé Land Company have produced in the last
+twelve years over a million Quebracho Colorado sleepers.
+
+One drawback to the wood is that it has the peculiarity of splitting
+around the heart of the tree. This is caused by the accumulation of
+resin at certain periods, and is probably connected in some way with the
+excessive moisture or dryness of a particular year's growth.
+
+The tree is often attacked by a boring grub, which enters by making a
+very small pin prick opening, and during its existence in the tree grows
+and bores an ever enlarging hole until often it becomes half an inch in
+diameter. It would seem almost incredible that a grub could live either
+on the resins in the tree or be able to bore through what is one of the
+hardest woods in the world.
+
+Of recent years this timber has also been put to another use--that of
+producing tan. When used for this purpose, the tree was cut down, its
+outer sapwood removed, and then taken to the river to be finally shipped
+to the United States of America or to Germany.
+
+It was soon found that the railway and shipping freight charges absorbed
+a considerable amount of the profits to be obtained in making this
+tannin extract abroad, and, therefore, extract factories were erected in
+Argentina. The process of obtaining the extract is very simple; the logs
+are first put through a machine which reduces them to chips, the chips
+are then boiled in water till all soluble matter is extracted from them,
+and the solution obtained is concentrated down to the consistency of
+pitch; in this form, after being dried, it is exported, and is used by
+tanners the world over. The great necessity and essence of success, in
+the present way of working the business, is good water and plenty of it.
+
+We do not know who first noticed the tannin material oozing out of these
+trees, but no doubt attention was called to the fact by pools in the
+neighbourhood of the trees being often red in colour. Undoubtedly the
+Germans first took this business up on a large scale, and to-day they
+hold an enormous quantity of forest lands.
+
+Hitherto the extract has been brought on to the market in a solid state
+very much after the style of Burma cutch. The Santa Fé Land Company have
+recently produced the material in a fine powdered state, absolutely
+pure, and containing a great deal less moisture than any other form of
+extract on the market, and they are about to erect a factory to work
+this process in connection with their saw mills at Vera. This new
+process requires very little water as compared with the old method, and
+can be adopted, in huge areas hitherto unsuitable for the industry.
+
+About mid-day we approached a plaza, or wood deposit, of the La
+Gallareta Factory, situated on the Company's Lands. Rain had been
+falling in torrents for days past, and the tracks (called by courtesy
+"roads") had one and all become deep crevasses of soft mud, loads of
+timber had been left here and there in the wood, just wherever the cart
+conveying it had stuck, and in many places the water was so deep that
+not a vestige of these obstacles could be seen. Our coaches had to be
+driven under (or perhaps we should say "over") such circumstances as
+these for about three miles, and this part of our journey was absolutely
+dangerous; the greatest credit is due to the drivers and those in charge
+of the party that no serious accident occurred, for, about mid-day, the
+way was truly terrible, and one never knew when a tree trunk, small or
+large, lying hidden under the water, would cause a terrific jolt to the
+cart, despite the utmost efforts on the part of our cocheros. However,
+we passed from the extreme danger zone into the comparatively smooth
+waters of the flooded lands. So we drove on, our drivers and guides
+becoming more and more chilled with the rain and cold, but always
+cheerful, till at last wire fencing and other signs of civilisation
+marked our approach to the precincts of Las Gamas. This was indeed a
+welcome sight to the party, for all were beginning to feel the need of
+food and shelter, and though the "passengers" in the coaches were
+comparatively dry, despite the continual downpour, the drivers were wet
+through long ago and the peons had not been dry since dawn.
+
+[Illustration: _Tannin Extract Factory._]
+
+No one was sorry when "The Jehu," to shorten the drive, ordered some of
+the wire fencing to be dropped so that we might proceed in a straight
+line to the house instead of making the considerable detour to the gate.
+It was past three o'clock when, after a side-slip or two, and consequent
+meeting with gate-posts, we drew up in front of the estancia house and
+noticed on the outbuildings a damp flag trying to flap a weary "welcome"
+to the party of Tacuruers. The first thing was to get The Jehu from his
+driving seat and into a warm bath, and the same treatment was meted out
+to The Chaperon, and hot whisky and water for all! Our host and hostess
+gave us such a genial welcome and the big room looked so dry and
+inviting, with a wood fire crackling in the grate, that our troubles,
+which had, during the long hours of to-day's tedious drive, assumed
+really serious proportions, were soon forgotten as we sat down, in an
+incredibly short time, to a hearty meal of roast turkey and mince pies!
+We almost fell to wishing each other a Happy Christmas, and
+instinctively wondered if roast chestnuts would form part of the
+afternoon's programme. Unfortunately, chestnuts of an allegorical kind
+_did_ enter into the proceedings. Meanwhile, the rain continued its
+unceasing downpour. It was some time before the baggage waggons arrived
+on the scene, and, needless to say, they and their contents were very
+damp. But the peons soon had the goods unpacked, and ere long were happy
+and dry in the big galpon round a roaring fire, which they must have
+badly needed. Their behaviour all through this terrible day, sometimes
+under most trying circumstances, had been splendid, and it says a good
+deal for master as well as for man that not once was a sound of
+discontent heard. In fact, the men often suggested themselves little
+things in which they thought they might help the caretakers of the
+party. It was a relief to us all to know that the work of those peons
+had ended for the day with the caring for the horses and unpacking of
+the goods.
+
+Monte still accompanied us, but here he had to be kept under strict
+surveillance, for dogs were numerous on the premises, and several of
+them were not of the kind who brook any encroachment, however harmless,
+on their preserves; so poor Monte was perforce shut up, away from the
+house, where Bear and his companions could not take exception to the
+presence of an interloper. The late afternoon and evening were chiefly
+spent in having warm baths, which were most grateful after the, of
+necessity, somewhat sketchy ablutions of the past three days. Now that
+the safe arrival of the luggage was an accomplished fact, and the
+travellers clothed and fed, there seemed little reason for late hours,
+and it was not long after dinner when the general dispersal took place.
+We only waited to hear a few selections of songs on the beautiful
+gramophone which our host had received a few months ago as a Christmas
+greeting from England. It must be difficult for those at home to
+realise what an immense amount of pleasure a good gramophone can give to
+the dwellers in the far camp lands. This instrument was in constant
+request, and both the machine and records were extraordinarily good.
+Still, even this great attraction did not tempt the party to sit up
+late; everyone was tired and exhausted, and our cocheros, more
+especially the Jehu, must have been worn out with their exertions of the
+day. We can only hope they will suffer no after ill effects from their
+arduous task and severe drenchings.
+
+[Illustration: _Some of the Horses._]
+
+Our horses have been simply wonderful during this trip. We have driven,
+ridden, and brought along nearly 100 animals for 150 miles, and have not
+lost one upon the journey. This speaks volumes for the care and training
+bestowed upon the animals at the head estancia, and we are inclined to
+think that few other places could supply as many animals to do such
+trying work. The fitness of our animals is owing entirely to the
+continual attention and care they receive daily at the estancia.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_We are sorry to be obliged to hold over all correspondence,
+advertisements, etc., to-day, as, doubtless owing to the floods, no
+communications had reached us up to the time of going to press. We hope
+all correspondents will accept our sincere apologies for the unavoidable
+delay in dealing with letters and orders; all despatches shall receive
+our earnest attention as soon as they come to hand._
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 9
+
+_Sunday, April 3rd, 1910._
+
+
+Dawn showed us no respite of the drenching rain; the paths, the garden,
+and the camps were all flooded with the continuous rain of yesterday and
+last night, and still it poured. After disposing of a more substantial
+breakfast than had fallen to the lot of the travellers for some days,
+there seemed little to do save listen to the dulcet strains of the
+gramophone, which proved a welcome diversion. A considerable disturbance
+was caused by a dog fight under the table round which we were sitting;
+whether intentional or not on the part of the animals, the rout of the
+ladies was complete, and the dogs were only separated by the calm
+procedure of some of the men who held them under the water taps until
+their ardour was cooled. Monte was out of all this trouble, for he had
+been consigned to the security of the galpon to avoid trouble concerning
+rights of way which would assuredly have arisen between himself and Bear
+(the big bulldog of the estancia) had they met. Bear amused the company
+by presenting a truly comical sight, some minutes later, when he decided
+to have a drink after his fight; he walked with majestic mien up to the
+water spout, which jutted out from the house a few feet from the ground,
+and, poking out his heavy under-jaw, collected the flow of water in his
+mouth in a most satisfying way, for a few seconds. Of course, The
+Instigator started off pacing and measuring the room's verandah, etc.,
+in order to devise a scheme for the best improvements for the estancia,
+and before long he and The Delineator had made out a plan which would
+drive any member of the R.I.B.A. to desperation, but caused its authors
+enormous joy. The Jehu and The Chaperon were occupied for some time in
+seeing to the comfort of their men and animals, and trying to dry the
+tents, clothes, etc., by the huge fire in the galpon in which the peons
+were housed for the day. We are told that one Tacuruer tried to employ
+the morning remuneratively by opening a temporary barber's shop on the
+verandah, and advertising "hair-cutting and shaving"; possibly he might
+have built up a successful business in time, but unfortunately for him
+his first customer's beard was too unyielding for the ordinary scissors
+and the customer objected to the way in which the horse clippers were
+used on the hirsute growth of his chin, and talked of his treatment
+afterwards in a way that did not inspire confidence in the other
+might-have-been customers, who were observed to slink away one by one
+from the barber's chair as if it were infected. We regret that a
+well-meant enterprise on the part of one of The Tacuru party met with
+such a poor reception.
+
+A gleam of ceasing rain--it was not sunshine--gave courage to some of
+the more energetic members of the party to go forth to inspect the heaps
+of wood about to be made into charcoal in the neighbourhood of the
+estancia, if any could be reached on dry land. For to-morrow the visit
+to the La Gallareta factory will occupy the day, and the Charcoal piles
+are too interesting a sight to be left unvisited now that we are in the
+wood department of the Santa Fé Land Company.
+
+In the northern districts where trees are numerous it is necessary to
+"distroncar" the land before the soil can be brought into condition
+suitable for the plough. In other words all the trees and roots must be
+removed before ploughing operations commence. But the timber so obtained
+is not wasted; the branches and all pieces not big enough to be used for
+sleepers, etc., are cut up into various suitable lengths and piled
+together in such a manner that when finished the heap presents the
+appearance of a huge beehive; the centre of this dome running from the
+apex to the ground is a hollow cylinder; this tube or pipe is filled up
+with the small sticks and twigs from the trees, and when all is in
+readiness the contents of the cylinder are fired from the top, the fire
+slowly burns downwards and sets light to the surrounding logs which in
+their turn smoulder till they become charcoal. But the match is not
+applied until the whole mass of wood has been covered up and plastered
+over with mud, to prevent the entrance of any air. The kiln thus forms
+an enclosed retort, and the wood is carbonised and makes excellent
+charcoal, which eventually finds its way to Buenos Aires and other
+cities, where immense quantities are used for cooking and heating
+purposes. If all goes well, the kiln being well built, and no air
+admitted, some thirty to forty tons of charcoal are produced from one of
+these heaps; not infrequently, however, the crown breaks in; this allows
+the air to enter, the wood is completely burnt, and the labour expended
+on this "horno" is represented by a few cartloads of useless ash. The
+thought of these possible failures was too much for The Instigator; he
+held forth, at length, upon the advisability of bringing a little
+science to bear upon the problem of preventing any waste of the material
+itself or of the by-products. His theory is that to make the best use of
+nature's lavish gifts in the way of wood products, an iron or brick
+still should be erected, on the inside of which the heavy tarry products
+would naturally accumulate, and so find their way to the base of the
+kiln where they could be collected and run out into casks for
+utilisation, whilst the lighter vapours are condensed in the hood of the
+still to be chemically treated later for their highly valuable
+properties, and the charcoal itself would be a more certain production
+from these brick or iron kilns than it is from the present heaps. At
+this point of his lecture the weather became impossible, and when The
+Instigator discovered that he was expatiating to the camp and rain
+alone, he, too, turned to seek the shelter of the estancia house,
+whither his audience had long ago fled. For some time we watched the
+storm as it worked up with intense fury. The lightning as it illuminated
+the whole camp was a wonderful sight, it seemed to flash (and this was
+before the dinner hour) yellow light from the north, red from the south,
+and a bright white light from the east, and was of long continuance. The
+culminating point seemed to come when an appalling crash was heard and
+something appeared to have been struck by lightning. This drove the
+party indoors, though from the time of the crash (we found later that it
+was the telephone which had suffered), the storm abated and only steady
+rain continued. However, nothing more could be done out of doors, and
+everyone was glad of warmth and shelter, while they hoped for a better
+day to-morrow.
+
+Songs occupied the evening, and most of the party retired early to bed.
+
+The Editor regrets that up to the time of going to press to-day, the
+advertisements, correspondence, etc., due for yesterday's issue had not
+reached the office; he fears they may have been lost, and requests that
+all orders may be repeated.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The following advertisements of to-day's dating have been sent in:--
+
+HAIR CUTTING AND SHAVING while you wait.--Lowest prices. Large supply of
+tools, or customers may bring their own instruments if preferred. Good
+style guaranteed. Customers' comfort not so much considered as thorough
+work. Satisfaction certain.--T.C., THE VERANDAH.
+
+WANTED.--Reliable Barber--for clipping advertiser's beard weekly, at own
+residence. May be required to travel. Gentleness much appreciated;
+advertiser would give valuable information on any subject in return for
+Barber's services.--T.I., LAS GAMAS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+WANTED--By several people; good book on "How not to lose at Bridge."
+Anyone possessing a copy of this valuable work for sale, please quote
+lowest price to The Editor, _Tacuru_ Office.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Monday, April 4th, 1910.
+
+The Editor and Staff of "The Tacuru" announce with great regret the
+unavoidable demise of the journal known and respected by all as "The
+Tacuru." This valuable and instructive periodical has become a necessity
+to every happy home. The Editor hoped long to continue his beneficent
+task of bringing a daily joy into the lives of all English-speaking and
+reading people; but, alas, just as he bore "his blushing honours thick
+upon him," there came a flood, an awful flood, and carried away his
+hopes and printing press (we believe some people were drowned, too).
+Therefore we must, perforce, bid our readers "farewell, a long
+farewell." Though not, we hope, for ever. Printing presses are not
+unique, and some day, in the land of civilisation, we hope to be able to
+make our loss good and bring happiness and information once more to
+countless millions. In case any of our readers would like to erect a
+monument of gratitude to "The Tacuru," in memory of the enjoyment, or
+otherwise, this paper has brought into their lives, we would mention
+that the printing-press and a few lives were lost on the way to Olmos.
+We are able to publish a photo of extreme interest, depicting the
+counting of the loss after the deluge. With this, and our deepest
+regrets, we must pause, trusting that some day our great work may be
+renewed under similarly happy circumstances, by the same staff, to whom,
+and to all contributors, willing or unwilling, a thousand thanks.
+
+[Illustration: _"Awful Flood."_]
+
+[Illustration: _On the Way to Olmos._]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Argentina From A British Point Of View, by Various
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14366 ***
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+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14366 ***</div>
+
+<h1>ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW</h1>
+
+<h4>AND</h4>
+
+<h2>NOTES ON ARGENTINE LIFE.</h2>
+
+<br />
+
+<h4>With Photographs and Diagrams.</h4>
+<br /><br />
+
+<h4>EDITED BY</h4>
+<h3>CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.</h3>
+
+<br /><br />
+<h5>LONDON:</h5>
+<h5>WERTHEIMER, LEA &amp; CO.,</h5>
+<h6>CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, E.C</h6>
+<h5>1910.</h5>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3>DEDICATED</h3>
+
+<h4>To <i>all</i></h4>
+
+<h4>THE SHAREHOLDERS OF THE SANTA F&Eacute; LAND COMPANY, LIMITED,</h4>
+
+<h4><i>who take a real interest in the Company</i>.</h4>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>PREFACE.</h2>
+<br />
+
+<p>In May last I was asked to read, towards the end of the year, a paper on
+Argentina, before the Royal Society of Arts. The task of compiling that
+paper was one of absorbing interest to me; and though I fully realise
+how inadequately I have dealt with so interesting a subject, I venture
+to think that the facts and figures which the paper contains may be of
+interest to some, at any rate, of the Shareholders of the Santa F&eacute; Land
+Company. It is upon this supposition that it is published.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst I was obtaining the latest information for the paper (which was
+read before the Royal Society of Arts on November 30th, 1910), several
+members of the staff of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company aided me by writing
+some useful and interesting notes on subjects connected with Argentina,
+and also giving various experiences which they had undergone whilst
+resident there. I am indebted to the writers for many hints on life in
+Argentina, and as I think that others will find the reading of the notes
+as engaging as I did, they are now reproduced just as I received them,
+and incorporated with my own paper in a book of which they form by no
+means the least interesting part.</p>
+
+<p>The final portion of the book&mdash;Leaves from a journal entitled &quot;The
+Tacuru&quot;&mdash;is written in a lighter vein. It describes a trip through some
+of the Northern lands of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company, and it is included
+because, although frankly humorous, it contains much really useful
+information and many capital illustrations, I should, however, mention
+that this journal was written by members of the expedition, and was
+originally intended solely for their own private edification and
+amusement; therefore all the happier phases of the trip are noted; but I
+can assure my English readers that the trip, well though it was planned,
+was not all luxury.</p>
+
+<p>To the many who have helped me in this work I tender my most sincere
+thanks.</p>
+
+<p>CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"><span>LAWFORD PLACE,<br /></span>
+<span class='i2'>MANNINGTREE, ESSEX,<br /></span>
+<span class='i4'><i>December, 1910</i>.<br /></span></div></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+<ul><li><a href="#ARGENTINA_FROM_A_BRITISH_POINT_OF_VIEW"><b>ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#HISTORY_OF_THE_SANTA_FE_LAND_COMPANY_LIMITED"><b>HISTORY OF THE SANTA F&Eacute; LAND COMPANY, LIMITED.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#THE_VALUE_OF_LAND_IN_ARGENTINA"><b>THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#REMARKS_ON_STORMS_AND_THE_CLIMATE_OF_THE_ARGENTINE"><b>REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#SOME_EXPERIENCES_OF_WORKING_ON_ESTANCIAS"><b>SOME EXPERIENCES OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#THE_SOCIAL_SIDE_OF_CAMP_LIFE"><b>THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#CARNIVAL_IN_THE_ARGENTINE"><b>CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#HORSE_RACING_IN_THE_ARGENTINE"><b>HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#SUNDAYS_IN_CAMP"><b>SUNDAYS IN CAMP.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#THE_SERVANT_PROBLEM_IN_ARGENTINA"><b>THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#POLICE_OF_A_BYGONE_DAY"><b>POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#A_VISIT_TO_THE_NORTHERN_CHACO"><b>A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#WORK_IN_THE_WOODS"><b>WORK IN THE WOODS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#CACHAPES_AND_OTHER_THINGS"><b>CACHAP&Eacute;S, AND OTHER THINGS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#MY_FRIEND_THE_AXEMAN"><b>MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#DUST_AND_OTHER_STORMS"><b>DUST AND OTHER STORMS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#LOCUSTS"><b>LOCUSTS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#CONSCRIPT_LIFE_IN_THE_ARGENTINE_REPUBLIC"><b>CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#ACROSS_THE_BOLIVIAN_ANDES_IN_1901"><b>ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#PROGRESS_OF_THE_PORT_OF_BUENOS_AIRES"><b>PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#JUST_MY_LUCK"><b>JUST MY LUCK!</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#THE_TACURUquot"><b>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</b></a></li></ul>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS.</h2>
+
+<ul><li><a href="#Cattle_Train_on_Central_Argentine_Railway">CATTLE TRAIN ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY, BRINGING CATTLE TO BARRANCOSA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Loading_Wheat_at_Rosario">LOADING WHEAT AT ROSARIO FROM THE &quot;BARRANCA&quot;</a></li>
+<li><a href="#San_Cristobal_Estancia_House">SAN CRISTOBAL ESTANCIA HOUSE</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Watering_Place_at_Barrancosa">WATERING-PLACE AT BARRANCOSA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Wood_on_the_Company39s_Own_Line_ready_for_Loading">WOOD ON THE COMPANY'S OWN LINE READY FOR LOADING</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Loading_Timber_at_Wayside_Station">LOADING TIMBER AT WAYSIDE STATION</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Wheat_ready_for_Loading_at_Station_on_Central_Argentine_Railway">WHEAT READY FOR LOADING AT STATION ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Maker_of_Land_Values">THE MAKER OF LAND VALUES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Tennis_Party_at_Vera">TENNIS PARTY AT VERA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Carnival_at_Vera">CARNIVAL AT VERA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#A_Day_of_Real_Enjoyment">&quot;A DAY OF REAL ENJOYMENT&quot;</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Square_Quebracho_Logs_worked_by_the_Axeman_showing_Resin_oozing_therefrom">SQUARE QUEBRACHO LOGS WORKED BY THE AXEMAN, SHOWING RESIN OOZING THEREFROM</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Loading_Wheat_at_the_Port_of_Buenos_Aires">LOADING WHEAT AT THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Horses_awaiting_Inspection">HORSES AWAITING INSPECTION</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Stacking_Alfalfa">STACKING ALFALFA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Alfalfa_Elevator_at_Work">ALFALFA ELEVATOR AT WORK</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Green_Fields_of_Alfalfa">THE GREEN FIELDS OF ALFALFA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Herd_of_Cattle">HERD OF CATTLE</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Expanse_of_Alfalfa">EXPANSE OF ALFALFA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Disc_Plough_at_Work">DISC-PLOUGH AT WORK</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Roadmaker_and_Railroad_Builder">ROADMAKER AND RAILROAD BUILDER</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Ploughing_Virgin_Camp">PLOUGHING VIRGIN CAMP</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Hart_Parr_Engine_drawing_Roadmaker">HART-PARR ENGINE, DRAWING ROADMAKER</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Cattle_leaving_Dip">CATTLE LEAVING DIP</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Crossing_the_Salado">CROSSING THE SALADO</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Effect_of_a_Long_Drought">THE EFFECT OF A LONG DROUGHT</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Refined_Camps">REFINED CAMPS</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Rich_black_alluvial_Soil">&quot;RICH BLACK ALLUVIAL SOIL&quot;</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Water_Knee_deep">WATER KNEE-DEEP</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Quebracho_Colorado_Tree">QUEBRACHO COLORADO TREE</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Sleepers_awaiting_Transport_at_Vera">SLEEPERS AWAITING TRANSPORT AT VERA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Tannin_Extract_Factory">TANNIN EXTRACT FACTORY</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Some_of_the_Horses">SOME OF THE HORSES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Awful_Flood">&quot;AWFUL FLOOD&quot;</a></li>
+<li><a href="#On_the_Way_to_Olmos">ON THE WAY TO OLMOS</a></li></ul>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>LIST OF DIAGRAMS.</h2>
+
+<ul><li><a href="#DIAGRAM_OF_IMMIGRATION_RETURNS">IMMIGRATION RETURNS</a></li>
+<li><a href="#AGRICULTURAL_EXPORTATION">AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION</a></li>
+<li><a href="#CULTIVATED_AREA">CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#DIAGRAM_OF_VALUE_IN_pound_STERLING">VALUE IN &pound; STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF ARGENTINA, 1900-09</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<a name="Page_1"></a>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="ARGENTINA_FROM_A_BRITISH_POINT_OF_VIEW"></a><h2>ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW.</h2>
+<br />
+
+<p>Argentina, which does not profess to be a manufacturing country,
+exported in 1909 material grown on her own lands to the value of
+&pound;79,000,000, and imported goods to the extent of &pound;60,000,000. This fact
+arrests our attention, and forces us to recognise that there is a trade
+balance of nearly 20 millions sterling in her favour, and to realise the
+saving power of the country.</p>
+
+<p>It is not mere curiosity which prompts us to ask: &quot;Are these &pound;79,000,000
+worth of exports of any value to us? Do we consume any of them? Do we
+manufacture any of them? And do we send any of this same stuff back
+again after it has been dealt with by our British artisans?&quot; It would be
+difficult to follow definitely any one article, but upon broad lines the
+questions are simple and can be easily answered. Amongst the
+agricultural exports we find wheat, oats, maize, linseed, and flour. The
+value placed upon these in 1908 amounted to &pound;48,000,000, and England
+pays for and consumes nearly 42 per cent. of these exports. Other goods,
+such as frozen beef, chilled beef, mutton, pork, wool, and articles
+which may be justly grouped as the results of the cattle and sheep
+industry, amounted to no less a figure than &pound;23,000,000. All these
+exports represent foodstuffs or other necessities of life, and are
+consumed by those nations which do not produce enough from their own
+soil to keep their teeming populations. Another export which is worthy
+of particular mention comes from the forests, viz., quebracho, which, in
+the form of logs and extract, was exported in 1908 to the value of
+&pound;1,200,000. The value of material of all sorts sent from England to
+Argentina in 1908 was &pound;16,938,872 (this figure includes such things as
+manufactured woollen goods, leather goods, <a name="Page_2"></a>oils, and paints), therefore
+it is clear that we have, and must continue to take, a practical and
+financial interest in the welfare and prosperity of Argentina.</p>
+
+<p>New countries cannot get on without men willing and ready to exploit
+Nature's gifts, and, naturally, we look to the immigration returns when
+considering Argentina's progress. To give each year's return for the
+last 50 years would be wearisome, but, taking the average figures for
+ten-year periods from 1860 to 1909, we have the following interesting
+table. (The figures represent the balance of those left in the country
+after allowing for emigration):&mdash;</p>
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td colspan='5'>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>Yearly Average.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>From</td><td align='left'>1860</td><td align='left'>to</td><td align='left'>1869 </td><td align='left'>(inclusive)</td><td align='right'>15,044</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1870</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1879</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>29,462</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1880</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1889</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>84,586</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1890</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1899</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>43,618</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1900</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1909</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>100,998</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Sixty-five per cent. of the immigrants are agricultural labourers, who
+soon find work in the country, and again add their quota to the
+increasing quantity and value of materials to be exported. Facing this
+page is a diagram of the Immigration Returns from 1857 to 1909.</p>
+
+<p>Nature has been lavish in her gifts to Argentina, and man has taken
+great advantage of these gifts. My desire now is to show what has been
+done in the way of developing agriculture in this richly-endowed country
+during the last fifty years. One name which should never be forgotten in
+Argentina is that of William Wheelwright, whose entrance into active
+life in Buenos Aires was not particularly dignified; in 1826 he was
+shipwrecked at the mouth of the River Plate, and struggled on
+barefooted, hatless and starving to the small town of Quilmes.</p>
+
+<a name="DIAGRAM_OF_IMMIGRATION_RETURNS"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image01.png" width="325" height="482" alt="DIAGRAM OF IMMIGRATION RETURNS. NOTE:&mdash;IN THE YEARS 1888, 1889 &amp; 1890 THE ARGENTINE GOVERNMENT ASSISTED
+PASSAGES." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>Mr. Wheelwright was an earnest and far-seeing man, and his knowledge of
+railways in the United States helped him to realise their great
+possibilities in Argentina; but, <a name="Page_3"></a>strange to say, upon his return to his
+native land he could not impress any of those men who afterwards became
+such great &quot;Railway Kings&quot; in the U.S.A. Failing to obtain capital for
+Argentine railway development in his own country, Wheelwright came to
+England, and interested Thomas Brassey, whose name was then a household
+word amongst railway pioneers. These two men associated themselves with
+Messrs. Ogilvie &amp; Wythes, forming themselves into the firm of Brassey,
+Ogilvie, Wythes &amp; Wheelwright, whose first work was the building of a
+railway 17,480 kilometres long between Buenos Aires and Quilmes in 1863;
+afterwards they built the line from Rosario to Cordova, which is
+embodied to-day in the Central Argentine Railway. Other railways were
+projected, and this policy of progress and extension of the steel road
+still holds good in Argentina.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1857 saw the first railway built, from Buenos Ayres to Flores,
+5,879 kilometres long; in 1870 there were 457 miles of railroad; in 1880
+the railways had increased their mileage to 1,572; in 1890 Argentina
+possessed 5,895 miles of railway, and in 1900 there were 10,352 miles.</p>
+
+<p>The rapid increase in railway mileage during the last nine years is as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>In</td><td align='left'>1901</td><td align='left'>there</td><td align='left'>were</td><td align='left'>10,565</td><td align='left'>miles</td><td align='left'>of</td><td align='left'>railway.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1902</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>10,868</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1903</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>11,500</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1904</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>12,140</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1905</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>12,370</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1906</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>12,850</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1907</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>13,829</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>14,825</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1909 </td><td align='left'> &quot; </td><td align='left'> &quot;</td><td align='left'> 15,937<a name="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1"><sup>[A]</sup></a></td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> &quot; </td><td align='left'> &quot;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>12,000 of which are owned by English companies, representing a capital
+investment of &pound;170,000,000.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_4"></a>In other words, for the last forty years Argentina has built railways
+at the rate of over a mile a day, and in 1907, 1908, and 1909 her
+average rate per day was nearly three miles. This means that owing to
+the extension of railways during this last year alone, over a million
+more acres of land could have been given up to the plough if suitable
+for the cultivation of corn.</p>
+
+<p>When William Wheelwright first visited Argentina it was little more than
+an unknown land, whose inhabitants had no ambition, and no desire to
+acquire wealth&mdash;except at the expense of broken heads. There was a
+standard of wealth, but it lay in the number of cattle owned; land was
+of little value, save for feeding cattle, and therefore counted for
+naught, but cattle could be boiled down for tallow; bones and hides were
+also marketable commodities; the man, therefore, who possessed cattle
+possessed wealth.</p>
+
+<p>The opening out of the country by railways soon changed the aspect of
+affairs. The man who possessed cattle was no longer considered the rich
+man; it was he who owned leagues of land upon which wheat could be grown
+who became the potentially rich man; he, by cutting up his land and
+renting it to the immigrants, who were beginning to flock in in an
+endless stream to the country, found that riches were being accumulated
+for him without much exertion on his part. He took a risk inasmuch as he
+received payment in kind only. Therefore, when the immigrants did well,
+so did he, and as many thousands of immigrants have become rich, it
+follows that the land proprietors have become immensely so. It was the
+railways which created this possibility, and endowed the country by
+rendering it practicable to grow corn where cattle only existed before,
+but many Argentines to-day forget what they owe to the railway pioneers;
+it is the railways, and the railways only, which render the splendid and
+yearly increasing exports possible.</p><a name="Page_5"></a>
+
+<p>In 1858 cattle formed 25 per cent. of the total wealth of Argentina, but
+in 1885 cattle only represented 18 per cent. of the total wealth,
+railways having made it possible during those thirty years to utilise
+lands for other purposes than cattle-feeding. Let it be clearly
+understood, the total value of cattle had not decreased; far from that,
+the cattle had increased in value during the above period to the extent
+of &pound;48,000,000, and to-day cattle, sheep, horses, mules, pigs, goats and
+asses represent a value of nearly &pound;130,000,000. The following table
+shows how great the improvement has been in Argentine animals:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td colspan='5'>&nbsp;</td><td align="center" >Per Head.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cattle in</td><td align='left'>1885</td><td align='left'>were valued</td><td align='left'>at an</td><td align='left'>average of</td><td align='right'>$13</td><td align='right'><a name="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2"><sup>[B]</sup></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>32</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sheep in</td><td align='left'>1885</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>4</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Horses in</td><td align='left'>1885</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>25</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Notwithstanding these increased valuations per head, and the larger
+number of animals in the country, the value created by man's labour far
+outweighs the increased value of mere breeding animals.</p>
+
+<p>Next to the railways the improvements in shipping have helped the
+development of Argentina; the shipping trade of Buenos Aires has
+increased at the rate of one million tons per annum for the past few
+years, and the entries into the port form an interesting and instructive
+table:</p>
+
+<p>The following statement gives the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires from 1880 to 1909, and will more clearly show the
+increase and advance made in the last thirty years. These figures
+<a name="Page_6"></a>include both steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well as foreign
+trade:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>Tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1880</td><td align='right'>644,750</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1881</td><td align='right'>827,072</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1882</td><td align='right'>995,597</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1883</td><td align='right'>1,207,321</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1884</td><td align='right'>1,782,382</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1885</td><td align='right'>2,200,779</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1886</td><td align='right'>2,408,323</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1887</td><td align='right'>3,369,057</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1888</td><td align='right'>3,396,212</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1889</td><td align='right'>3,804,037</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1890</td><td align='right'>4,507,096</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1891</td><td align='right'>4,546,729</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1892</td><td align='right'>5,475,942</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1893</td><td align='right'>6,177,818</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1894</td><td align='right'>6,686,123</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1895</td><td align='right'>6,894,834</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1896</td><td align='right'>6,115,547</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1897</td><td align='right'>7,365,547</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1898</td><td align='right'>8,051,045</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1899</td><td align='right'>8,741,934</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1900</td><td align='right'>8,047,010</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1901</td><td align='right'>8,661,300</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1902</td><td align='right'>8,902,605</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1903</td><td align='right'>10,269,298</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1904</td><td align='right'>10,424,615</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1905</td><td align='right'>11,467,954</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1906</td><td align='right'>12,448,219</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1907</td><td align='right'>13,335,733</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1908</td><td align='right'>15,465,417</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1909</td><td align='right'>16,993,973</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>In 1897, out of the total number of steamers that entered Buenos Aires,
+viz., 901, with a tonnage of 2,342,391; 519, with a tonnage of
+1,327,571, were British. Taking the year 1909 we find that 2,008
+steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the port of Buenos Aires from
+foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542, and 1,978 steamers and 129
+sailing-vessels left the port for foreign shores with a tonnage of
+5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead with 2,242 steamers and 37
+sailing-vessels, or say 53&frac12; per cent. of the total. Germany comes
+next with 456 steamers and 2 sailing-vessels, or say 10&frac34; per cent, of
+the total. Italy with 307 steamers and 67 sailing-vessels is next, and
+then France with 264 steamers. The total number of steamers that entered
+and left the port from local and foreign ports is 13,485, with a tonnage
+of 14,481,526, and 20,264 sailing-vessels with 2,512,447 tons, which
+make up the amount of 16,993,973 tons, as shown above.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1884 the experiment of freezing beef, killed in Buenos
+Aires, and shipping it to Europe was first tried. That was successful,
+but an immense improvement was made when the process of chilling became
+the common <a name="Page_7"></a>means by which meat could be exported. The frozen beef trade
+in Argentina has had a wonderful development; it commenced in 1884, and
+the export of chilled meat has progressed steadily at the rate of 25,000
+beeves yearly, until, in 1908, it reached the enormous quantity of
+573,946 beeves, or 180,000 tons. Frozen mutton has remained
+comparatively steady, and has only increased by 38,000 tons in
+twenty-two years, or from 2,000,000 sheep frozen in 1886 to 3,297,667 in
+1908, whilst &quot;jerked beef,&quot; which was mostly sent to Cuba and Brazil,
+has fallen from 50,000 tons per annum to 6,651 tons. The value of frozen
+and preserved meats exported in 1908 was &pound;5,233,948.</p>
+
+<p>The value of live-stock in Argentina in 1908 was made up as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Cattle</td><td align='right'>&pound;82,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sheep</td><td align='right'>25,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Horses</td><td align='right'>18,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mules</td><td align='right'>2,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pigs</td><td align='right'>1,368,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Goats and Asses</td><td align='right'>1,000,000</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>A few years ago it was common on an estancia feeding 50,000 or 60,000
+cattle to find the household using canned Swiss milk. To-day 425,000
+litres of milk are brought into the city of Buenos Aires each day for
+consumption, and no less than two tons of butter, one ton of cream, and
+three tons of cheese are used there daily. Argentina also exports
+butter. This trade has sprung up entirely within the last fourteen
+years, and in 1908 she exported 3,549 tons of butter, the value of which
+was &pound;283,973.</p>
+
+<p>Until 1876 Argentina imported wheat for home consumption; in that year,
+when for many years past agricultural labourers had been arriving at an
+average of 25,000 per annum, she began to export wheat with a modest
+shipment of 5,000 tons. Thirty years later the export had <a name="Page_8"></a>mounted up to
+2,247,988 tons, and in 1908 the wheat exported amounted to 3,636,293
+tons, and was valued at &pound;25,768,520. Agricultural colonies had sprung up
+everywhere, and cattle became of second-rate importance; to-day the
+value of the exports of corn, which term includes wheat, barley, maize,
+oats, etc., is more than double that of cattle and cattle products. It
+is interesting to follow the evolution wrought by labour, intelligence,
+and capital in the prairie lands of Argentina. First, let us note the
+developments on those wonderful tracts of splendid prairie lands lying
+between the River Plate and the Andes: fifty years ago these lands were
+of little account, and only a few cattle were to be found roaming about
+them, but upon the advance of the railway they came under the plough,
+and, without much attention or care, produced wheat and maize. After a
+time improvements in the method of cultivation produced a better return,
+and to-day a great deal of attention is paid to the preparing of the
+land, and thought and care are given to the seed time, the growing, and
+the harvest. When it is found desirable to rest the land after crops of
+wheat and maize, etc., alfalfa is grown thereon. Alfalfa is one of the
+clover tribe, and has the peculiar property of attaching to itself those
+micro-organisms which are able to fix the nitrogen in the air and render
+it available for plant food. Every colonist knows the value of alfalfa
+for feeding his animals, but it is not every colonist who knows why this
+plant occupies such a high place amongst feeding stuffs. Alfalfa is
+easily grown, very strong when established, and, provided its roots can
+get to water, will go on growing for years. The <i>raison d'&ecirc;tre</i> for
+growing alfalfa is for the feeding of cattle and preparing them for
+market, and for this purpose a league of alfalfa (6,177 acres metric
+measurement) will carry on an average 3,500 head. When grown for dry
+fodder it produces three or four crops per annum and a fair <a name="Page_9"></a>yield is
+from 6 to 8 tons per acre of dry alfalfa for each year. A ton of such
+hay is worth about $20 to $30, and after deducting expenses there is a
+clear return of about $14 per acre.</p>
+
+<p>The figures supplied by one large company are interesting; they show
+that, on an average, cattle, when placed upon alfalfa lands, improve in
+value at the rate of $2.00 per head per month, so it is easy to place a
+value on its feeding properties. Thus, we will take a camp under alfalfa
+capable of carrying 10,000 head of cattle all the year round, where as
+the fattened animals are sold off an equal number is bought to replace
+them. Such a camp would bring in a clear profit of $200,000 per annum,
+and the property should be worth &pound;175,000 sterling. An animal that has
+been kept all its life on rough camp, and, when too old for breeding, is
+placed for the first time on alfalfa lands, fattens extremely quickly,
+and the meat is tender and in quality compares favourably with any other
+beef. No business in Argentina of the same importance has shown such
+good returns as cattle breeding, and these results have been chiefly
+brought about by the introduction of alfalfa, and a knowledge of the
+life history of alfalfa is of the greatest importance to the cattle
+farmer. All cereal crops take from the soil mineral matter and nitrogen.
+Therefore, after continuous cropping the land becomes exhausted and
+generally poorer; experience has taught us that rotation of crops is a
+necessity to alleviate the strain on the soil, and such an axiom has
+this become that in many cases English landlords insist that their
+leases shall contain a clause binding the tenants to grow certain stated
+crops in rotation.</p>
+
+<p>This system is known in England as the four-course shift. Knowledge
+gained by successive generations of observant farmers has given us the
+key to what Nature had <a name="Page_10"></a>hitherto kept to herself, and to-day we know why
+the plan adopted by our forefathers was right, and why the rotation of
+crops was, and is, a necessity. Men of science are devoting their lives
+to the systematic study of Nature's hidden secrets, and by means of
+Agricultural Colleges, as well as private individual research, these
+discoveries are being given to mankind, and long before the soils of
+Argentina show any serious loss of nitrogen from continuous cropping,
+science will probably have established means of applying in a practical
+manner those methods already known of propagating the
+nitrogen-collecting bacteria which thrive on alfalfa, clover, peas, soya
+beans, and other leguminous plants. Almost every country is now devoting
+time, money, and energy to agricultural research work. In 1908 the
+Agricultural College at Ontario prepared no less than 474 packages of
+Legume Bacteria, and in 309 cases beneficial results followed from the
+application thereof to the soil; in 165 cases no improvements in the
+crops were noticed, this may, however, have been due to the want of
+knowledge of how to manipulate the bacteria, or to lack of experience in
+noting effects scientifically, but in any case the experiment must be
+considered successful when the results obtained were satisfactory in no
+less than 65 per cent. of the trials. No greater factor exists than the
+microscope in opening up and hunting out the secrets concealed in the
+very soil we are standing on.</p>
+
+<p>If soils were composed of nothing but pure silica sand, nothing would
+ever grow; but in Nature we find that soils contain all sorts of mineral
+matter, and chief amongst these is lime.</p>
+
+<p>Alfalfa thrives on land which contains lime, and gives but poor results
+where this ingredient is deficient. The explanation is simple. There is
+a community of interest between the very low microscopic animal life,
+known as <a name="Page_11"></a>bacteria, and plant life generally. In every ounce of soil
+there are millions of these living germs which have their allotted work
+to do, and they thrive best in soils containing lime.</p>
+
+<p>If one digs up with great care a root of alfalfa (it need not be an old
+plant, the youngest plant will show the same peculiarity), and care is
+taken in exposing the root (perhaps the best method is the washing away
+of the surrounding earth by water), some small nodules attached to the
+fine, hair-like roots are easily distinguished by the naked eye, and
+these nodules are the home of a teeming, microscopical, industrious
+population, who perform their allotted work with the silent, persistent
+energy so often displayed in Nature. Men of science have been able to
+identify at least three classes of these bacteria, and to ascertain the
+work accomplished by each. The reason for their existence would seem to
+be that one class is able to convert the nitrogen in the air into
+ammonia, whilst others work it into nitrite, and the third class so
+manipulate it as to form a nitrate which is capable of being used for
+plant food.</p>
+
+<p>Now, although one ton of alfalfa removes from the soil 50 lb. of
+nitrogen, yet that crop leaves the soil richer in nitrogen, because the
+alfalfa has encouraged the multiplication of those factories which
+convert some of the thousands of tons of nitrogen floating above the
+earth into substance suitable for food for plant life. As a dry fodder
+for cattle three tons of alfalfa contains as much nutrition as two tons
+of wheat.</p>
+
+<p>The cost of growing alfalfa greatly depends upon the situation of the
+land to be dealt with; also upon whether labour is plentiful or not;
+but, in order to give some idea of the advantage of growing this cattle
+food, we will imagine the intrinsic value of the undeveloped land to be
+&pound;4,000, upon which, under existing conditions, it would be <a name="Page_12"></a>possible to
+keep 1,000 head of animals, whereas if this same land were under alfalfa
+3,000 to 3,500 animals would be fattened thereon, and the land would
+have increased in value to &pound;20,000 or &pound;30,000.</p>
+
+<p>Now, if the undeveloped land is to be improved, it becomes necessary
+either to work it yourself, with your own men, in which case you must
+provide ploughs, horses, bullocks, etc., or to carry out the plan
+usually adopted, that of letting the land to colonists who have had some
+experience in this class of work. Usually a colonist will undertake to
+cultivate from 500 to 600 acres, and agrees to pay to the landowner
+anything from 10 per cent. to 30 per cent. of his crops according to the
+distance of the land from the railway. The colonist brings his
+agricultural tackle along with him, and establishes his house (usually a
+most primitive affair), digs his well, and then proceeds to plough. In
+this work the whole family joins; the father leads the way, followed by
+the eldest child, and all the others in rotation, with the wife bringing
+up the rear; she keeps a maternal eye upon the little mite, who with
+great gusto and terrific yells manages somehow to cling to the plough
+and to do his or her share with the rest. Is it to be wondered at that
+work progresses fast under these conditions? There is but one idea
+prevalent in the family, namely, that time and opportunity are with
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The first crop grown on newly-broken ground is usually maize; the second
+year's crop is linseed, and perhaps a third year's crop&mdash;probably
+wheat&mdash;is grown by the colonist before the land is handed back to the
+owner ready to be put down in alfalfa. The colonist's cultivation of the
+land will have effectually killed off the natural rough grasses which
+would otherwise grow up and choke the alfalfa. Sometimes the alfalfa is
+sown with the colonist's last crop, and in such cases the landowner
+finds the alfalfa <a name="Page_13"></a>seed, and during the sowing of this crop it is very
+advisable that either he or his agent should be in constant attendance,
+because the after results greatly depend upon the care with which the
+seeding has been done. When the colonist's contract is completed he
+moves on to another part, and the owner, who has year by year received a
+percentage of the crops, takes back his land. Considerable outlay has
+now to be made in fences, wells, and buildings; the more there are of
+these the better, the land will carry a larger head of cattle and the
+control of them is easy when the camp has been properly divided.</p>
+
+<p>The colonists are generally Italians. They are an industrious and kindly
+people, hardy and quiet, well content with their surroundings, careful
+and frugal in their living, and many thousands could go back to their
+own country with wealth which has been acquired by constant and
+assiduous attention to the economies of life.</p>
+
+<p>It has often been said that an Englishman will starve where an Italian
+will thrive, and in some respects this is true; but it would be better
+expressed if it were stated that an Italian can adapt himself to
+circumstances better than an Englishman. At the same time, I doubt if an
+Italian would come off best were the two placed on a desert island where
+instantaneous action, grit, and endurance were called for.</p>
+
+<p>Many things are said of an Englishman, and none fits his character
+better than that which gives him the privilege of &quot;grumbling,&quot; and this
+characteristic becomes more marked when he is able to grumble with one
+of his own kith and kin. I have heard Argentines praise Englishmen, who,
+they say, manage their estancias far and away beyond all others, but at
+the same time they have told me that they would never allow two
+Englishmen on their place at once.</p>
+
+<p>It has been said that many of the immigrants do not intend to settle in
+the country. Probably this idea has <a name="Page_14"></a>gained ground on account of the
+large numbers of the labouring population, who are attracted to
+Argentina by the high wages ruling during the harvest time, and then
+find it pays them to go home and secure the European harvest, but
+generally these men come out again to stay. They have acquired a
+knowledge of the country, and often enough have also acquired an
+interest in some land, and they return, bringing their families, to
+adopt Argentina as their home&mdash;for a period at least.</p>
+
+<p>A glance at the statistics prepared by the authorities in Buenos Aires
+shows that during the last fifty-two years 4,250,980 persons entered as
+immigrants, and out of this number only 1,690,783 returned, leaving in
+the country 2,560,197 individuals, or an average of 50,000 workers per
+annum. These figures have become even more marked of recent years.
+Taking the last five years, the country has received on an average
+249,000 immigrants per annum; of these, 103,000 went back. In other
+words, 727,670 have made their homes within the borders of Argentina
+during the past five years, and of these at least 500,000 were
+agriculturists.</p>
+
+<p>It is not to be wondered at, then, that the exports, chiefly made up of
+agricultural produce, have shown extraordinary progress. Facing this
+page is a diagram showing the agricultural exportation from 1900 to
+1908.</p>
+
+
+<a name="AGRICULTURAL_EXPORTATION"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image02.png" width="319" height="464" alt="AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION INCLUDING WHEAT, LINSEED, OATS,
+MAIZE, ETC." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<a name="CULTIVATED_AREA"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image03.png" width="325" height="456" alt="CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES. (1 HECTARE = 2.471 ACRES)" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>Nothing can be more eloquent than the figures shown in this diagram.
+This remarkable progress, almost steady in its upward march, is not in
+one direction only. Argentina is an ideal country for agriculturists,
+and in every branch of that industry progress has been made. Greater
+care is being taken to-day in working up the by-products of the cattle
+business. More varied crops are being grown, and vegetable by-products
+are being economically looked after. The forests of Argentina are also
+being worked for the benefit <a name="Page_15"></a>of mankind. The Quebracho Colorado tree
+forms a very important item of export. It is sent out of the country
+either in the form of logs, of which no less than 254,571 tons were
+exported in 1908, or in the form of an extract for tanning purposes;
+48,162 tons of this extract were made and exported in 1908, and a small
+quantity of the wood was exported in the shape of sawdust. The total
+value of Quebracho Colorado exported in various forms in that year was,
+as already stated, &pound;1,200,000. This means that the Quebracho forests are
+being depleted at the rate of half a million tons per annum for export
+purposes alone, in addition to the enormous quantities used for
+sleepers, etc., in the country.</p>
+
+<p>The area in acres under cultivation for the year 1908 was 46,174,250, an
+increase of 265 per cent, on the land under cultivation in the year
+1895.</p>
+
+<p>The diagram facing this page shows the area in hectares cultivated from
+1897 to 1908:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>WHEAT&mdash;The area under cultivation for wheat shows an increase of 89 per
+cent, in ten years from&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='right'>8,000,000</td><td align='left'>acres</td><td align='left'>in</td><td align='left'>cultivation</td><td align='left'>in</td><td align='left'>1898, to</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>15,157,750</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>LINSEED&mdash;shows an increase of 361 per cent, from&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='right'>831,972</td><td align='left'>acres</td><td align='left'>in</td><td align='left'>cultivation</td><td align='left'>in</td><td align='left'>1898, to</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>3,835,750 </td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>MAIZE&mdash;increased by 250 per cent., and other crops, including Oats, 300
+per cent. in the same period.</p>
+
+<p>The United Kingdom purchased from Argentina and retained for its own use
+(in round figures) during the year 1908&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>WHEAT</td><td align='left'>to the</td><td align='left'>value of</td><td align='right'>&pound;13,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>MAIZE</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>5,600,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>FROZEN MEAT</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>9,300,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right' colspan='3'>Making a total of</td><td align='right'> &pound;27,900,000</td></tr></table>
+
+<a name="Page_16"></a>
+
+<p>Indeed, we buy from Argentina nearly 25 per cent. of our total food
+purchased abroad, and she supplies nearly 29 per cent. of our corn and
+grain requirements. These figures again clearly demonstrate that we have
+a vital interest in the well-being of our friends across the sea.</p>
+
+<p>In every direction Argentina has progressed, and judging from the past
+we may look with confidence to the future; the total area of the
+Republic is 776,064,000 acres, and certainly it is within the bounds of
+reasonable forecast to consider that 100,000,000 acres of this land will
+be, when opened up by railways, and other facilities, available for
+corn-growing. To-day only one-fifth of this available area is being
+cultivated, and another 43,000,000 acres are being utilised for feeding
+purposes; thus, only 63,000,000 out of 776,000,000 acres are being
+occupied. The chief reason why more is not utilised is because there is
+not sufficient labour available.</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Argentina</td><td align='center'>has</td><td align='center'>5</td><td align='center'>inhabitants</td><td align='center'>per square mile.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Russia</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>18</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Canada, Newfoundland, etc.</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>1&frac12;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Australia</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>1&#8531;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>U. Kingdom</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>364</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Belgium</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>625</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Germany</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>290</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Not only is there an enormous tract of land lying dormant, but the
+productive power of land now under cultivation may be vastly increased
+if farmers will devote their attention to improving the conditions of
+cultivation. 11.3 bushels of wheat per acre is not high-class farming,
+yet this is the average production for Argentina. Manitoba in 1908
+produced 13&frac12; bushels per acre, Saskatchewan, 17 bushels. In the
+fourteenth century England only produced 10 bushels per acre, but we
+have improved this yield to 30 bushels, while Roumania has increased her
+yield from<a name="Page_17"></a> 15 bushels per acre in 1890, to 23 bushels in 1908. France
+has increased her yield from 17 bushels in 1884, to 20 bushels in 1908.
+Germany has increased her yield per acre from 20 bushels in 1899, to 30
+bushels in 1908. So that we may not only look forward to a greater area
+being placed under cultivation, but we may reasonably expect heavier
+crops, if land proprietors will bring science to bear on their work of
+development. Indeed, with land rising in price, with an increasing
+influx of immigrants, and with more intelligent cultivation of the soil,
+the land must of necessity give a far larger yield than it has done
+heretofore.</p>
+
+<p>The following tables, taken from the Board of Trade returns, show from
+whence England draws some of her supplies. They also show how
+prominently Argentina figures as a food producer. The first table
+includes corn and meat; the second gives corn alone, and the third meat
+alone:&mdash;</p>
+
+<h5>FOOD IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE
+UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.</h5>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"
+summary=""> <tr><td align='left'>CORN (including wheat, barley, oats,
+rye, buckwheat, peas, beans, maize, wheatmeal, flour, oatmeal, and
+offals)</td><td align='right'>&pound;71,103,487</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>MEAT, fresh and frozen (including animals for food)</td><td align='right'>48,704,613</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Total</td><td align='left'>&pound;119,808,100</td></tr> </table>
+
+
+
+<p>Of this&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>Per Cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Argentina supplied</td><td align='right'>29,569,773 or</td><td align='right'>24.68</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>U.S.A. supplied</td><td align='right'>38,229,135 or</td><td align='right'>31.90</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Russia supplied</td><td align='right'>7,394,607 or</td><td align='right'>6.18</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Canada supplied</td><td align='right'>11,907,203 or</td><td align='right'>9.94</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Australia (including Tasmania) supplied</td><td align='right'>4,520,244 or</td><td align='right'>3.77</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Other Colonies and Foreign Countries supplied</td><td align='right'>28,187,138 or</td><td align='right'>23.53</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>&pound;119,808,100 or</td><td align='right'>100.00</td></tr></table>
+
+
+
+<h5>CORN IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.</h5>
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>Argentina.</td><td align='right'>U.S.A.</td><td align='right'>Russia.</td><td align='right'>Canada.</td><td align='right'>Australia (including Tasmania).</td>
+<td align='right'>Other Colonies and Foreign Countries.</td><td align='right'>Total.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Wheat</td><td align='right'>13,096,812</td><td align='right'>10,779,221</td><td align='right'>2,286,180</td><td align='right'>6,335,329</td><td align='right'>2,402,988</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Barley</td><td align='right'>22,943</td><td align='right'>733,446</td><td align='right'>2,622,005</td><td align='right'>205,697</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Oats</td><td align='right'>1,463,368</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>1,144,387</td><td align='right'>6,441</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Rye</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>129,691</td><td align='right'>93,066</td><td align='right'>49,009</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Buckwheat</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>6,677</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Peas</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>38,545</td><td align='right'>42,279</td><td align='right'>105,495</td><td align='right'>2,345</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Beans (not fresh, other than Haricot Beans)</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>15,094</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Maize</td><td align='right'>5,603,463</td><td align='right'>2,023,576</td><td align='right'>1,107,858</td><td align='right'>44,822</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Wheatmeal</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>and Flour</td><td align='right'>50,597</td><td align='right'>5,407,119</td><td align='right'>80</td><td align='right'>809,479</td><td align='right'>119,440</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Oatmeal and</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Rolled Oats</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>183,334</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>207,516</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Farinaceous substances (except Starch, Farina, Dextrine, and Potato Flour)</td>
+<td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>99,112</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>59,302</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Bran and Pollard</td><td align='right'>11,932</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Sharps and Middlings</td><td align='right'>35,113</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Maize Meal</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>129,543</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>&pound;</td><td align='right'> 20,284,228</td><td align='right'>19,523,587</td><td align='right'>7,317,626</td><td align='right'>7,823,090</td><td align='right'>2,524,773</td><td align='right'>13,630,183<a name="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3"><sup>[C]</sup></a> </td><td align='right'>71,103,487</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Percentage</td><td align='right'>28.53%</td><td align='right'>27.46%</td><td align='right'>10.29%</td><td align='right'>11.00%</td><td align='right'>3.56%</td><td align='right'>19.16%</td><td align='right'>= 100%</td></tr></table>
+
+
+
+<a name="Page_19"></a>
+<h5>MEAT, including animals for food, and fresh, chilled, frozen and tinned,
+imported into and retained by the United Kingdom in 1908:</h5>
+
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center' colspan='2'>Per Cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Argentina</td><td align='right'>supplied</td><td align='right'>9,285,545</td><td align='right'>or</td><td align='right'>19.07</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>U.S.A.</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>18,705,548</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>38.41</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Russia</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>76,981</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>0.16</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Canada</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>4,084,113</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>8.38</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Australia (including Tasmania)</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>1,995,471</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>4.10</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Other Colonies and Foreign Countries<a name="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_D_4"><sup>[D]</sup></a></td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>14,556,955</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>29.88</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>48,704,613</td><td align='right'> &quot;</td><td align='right'>100.00</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<a name="Page_20"></a>
+
+<p>The lesson shown here is one worthy of attention. We see that Argentina
+supplies England with one-fourth of her imported food, and U.S.A.
+supplies nearly one-third. Therefore it behoves both England and
+Argentina to see that America does not so manipulate things that she
+acquires the control over our meat and food supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Argentine authorities should not only exercise the law sanctioned
+February 4th, 1907, concerning the inspection of factories, but they
+should enforce greater care in seeing that all Argentine saladeros and
+packing-houses are manipulated with intense care, and cleanliness should
+be insisted upon; it would be a bad day for Argentina should ever such
+an outcry be raised against her saladeros as that which a few years ago
+was directed against the North American packing houses and for a time
+ruined the canning industry of the United States, and yet we find
+American methods being introduced into Argentina without let or
+hindrance. If our soldiers and sailors are to be fed upon canned meats,
+let those who are responsible for purchasing the food, at least see that
+the food is prepared under healthy and sanitary conditions.</p>
+
+<p>The corn-growing industry of the Argentine Republic is an intensely
+interesting subject. Before railways and steamships brought the foreign
+producer into close competition with our own farmers, Argentina did not
+produce enough grain to supply her home consumption, and cattle were
+bred only for their hides, tallow and bones. In the course of time, when
+steamers superseded sailing-ships <a name="Page_21"></a>and the world's carrying capacity
+thus became enormously increased, Argentina saw her opportunity of
+becoming a keen competitor in the food market. Corn-growing became a
+highly remunerative business, although much still remains to be learned
+concerning the handling of wheat. Both in the States and Canada grain is
+handled in a cheaper and more expeditious manner than in Argentina. An
+enormous amount of grain is dealt with in the Wheat Exchange of
+Winnipeg, but a further big impetus will be given to this industry when
+the wheat-fields of Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba are connected
+with a deep-sea port on Hudson Bay; this will be an accomplished fact in
+1915, and as this route means a thousand miles less haulage by land, and
+eight hundred less by sea to the chief European ports than by any
+existing route, it is bound to become the popular one; the chief factor,
+however, in making it a useful wheat outlet is the established fact that
+Hudson Bay, although many miles north of Lake Superior, remains free
+from ice for a period of one month after Lake Superior is tightly frozen
+up.</p>
+
+<p>Argentina may look forward to keen competition with Canada and Siberia
+for many years to come; on the other hand, the U.S.A. will steadily show
+a smaller quantity of wheat available for exportation, and the following
+table throws some light upon the wheat position:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Argentina and Uruguay have increased
+the area of their wheat-growing</td></tr><tr><td align='left'>
+land brought under the plough in
+the last ten years by</td><td align='left'>124 per cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Canada in the last ten years by</td><td align='left'>120 per cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Russia in the last ten years by</td><td align='left'>27 per cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>United States in the last ten years by</td><td align='left'>14 per cent.</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>No country in the world has shown such wonderful capabilities for
+growing linseed as the Argentine, and her <a name="Page_22"></a>average production for the
+following five-year periods show this expansion:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center'>Years.</td><td align='left'>Production in Tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1894-1898</td><td align='center'>193,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1899-1903</td><td align='center'>382,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1904-1908</td><td align='center'>839,000</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>In ten years she increased her production by 335 per cent. In the same
+period India increased her production by 3.8 per cent., and North
+America by 105 per cent., whilst Russia was unable to keep up her
+supply.</p>
+
+<p>The world's total linseed production for 1908 was made up as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Argentina</td><td align='left'>produced </td><td align='left'>1,101,000 tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>North America</td><td align='left'>produced</td><td align='left'>694,000 tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Russia</td><td align='left'>produced</td><td align='left'>470,000 tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>India</td><td align='left'>produced</td><td align='left'>360,000 tons.</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Here again we find Argentina leading. Moreover, she exported nearly the
+whole of her production, whilst North America, Russia, and India
+exported less than half a million tons between them.</p>
+
+<p>It is more than probable that by 1920 Argentina will be able to export,
+as the result of agricultural work, more than &pound;100,000,000 worth of
+produce per annum. It is interesting to note that, as the present
+figures reveal, allowing for a population of 6,500,000 and an
+agricultural produce export of &pound;48,335,432, each individual in Argentina
+has sent abroad, after producing enough from the land to keep himself,
+goods to the value of nearly &pound;8.</p>
+
+<p>The diagram facing this page shows what has been accomplished by
+Argentina in the last ten years.</p>
+
+<a name="DIAGRAM_OF_VALUE_IN_pound_STERLING"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image04.png" width="321" height="471" alt="DIAGRAM OF VALUE IN &pound; STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF
+ARGENTINA 1900-1909." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>In actual money value the exportation of wheat, <a name="Page_23"></a>linseed, oats, maize,
+other grain, flour, bran, and middlings is, in round figures, as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center'>1900</td><td align='center'>&pound;15,485,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1901</td><td align='center'>14,319,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1902</td><td align='center'>13,634,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1903</td><td align='center'>21,050,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1904</td><td align='center'>30,065,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1905</td><td align='center'>34,047,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1906</td><td align='center'>31,530,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1907</td><td align='center'>32,818,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1908</td><td align='center'>48,335,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1909</td><td align='center'>46,100,000</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><b>CATTLE.</b></p>
+
+<p>The value derived from the cattle industry and its allied produce is of
+great importance to the Argentine Republic. The exports from this
+industry may be divided into four heads, namely:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>LIVE ANIMALS;</p>
+
+<p>RAW PRODUCTS;</p>
+
+<p>MANUFACTURED OR PARTLY MANUFACTURED MATERIAL AND BY-PRODUCTS.</p>
+
+<p>Since the closing of English ports in 1901 to the importation of live
+cattle from Argentina, the trade in the export of live stock has fallen
+off considerably; the total value did not in 1908 amount to more than
+&pound;568,966; Belgium took 65,224 sheep, Chili took 45,114 cattle and 14,394
+sheep, Bolivia took 3,383 head of cattle and 10,676 sheep, and 16,000
+asses and mules, while horses were imported into England, Africa,
+Portugal, Brazil, Uruguay, Chili, Bolivia, and Paraguay.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_24"></a>Exports of raw products, which include frozen and chilled beef and
+mutton, hides, sheepskins, wool, and such things as horsehair, tallow,
+jerked beef, etc., represented a value of &pound;19,549,231 in 1908.</p>
+
+<p>Manufactured or partly manufactured material, including prepared tallow,
+meat extracts, meat, butter, cheese, lard, dressed leather, etc.,
+represented &pound;2,454,760, whilst the by-products, including bones, dried
+blood, guano, waste fats, etc., were valued at &pound;430,734. Thus,
+Argentina's total export from the cattle industry (after supplying her
+own needs) was over &pound;23,000,000.</p>
+
+<p>Argentina's live stock on hand when the last census was taken in May,
+1908, was as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Cattle</td><td align='right'>29,116,625</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sheep</td><td align='right'>67,211,758</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Horses</td><td align='right'>7,531,376</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mules, swine, goats, and asses</td><td align='right'>6,098,802</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>representing in value &pound;129,369,628.</p>
+
+<p>The favourite breed of cattle is the Shorthorn, and they comprise 84 per
+cent, of the classified breeding cows; the Herefords only figure out as
+6 per cent., but, undoubtedly, a more careful and complete
+classification will lead to modifications in these figures, for at the
+present time no less than five and a-half million cows are returned as
+Criollo cattle, in other words, unimproved stock.</p>
+
+<p>Not until the year 1885, when it became possible to send frozen meat to
+Europe, did estancieros pay serious attention to growing cattle for meat
+production, and now, with an ever-increasing quantity of land being
+placed under alfalfa, the Argentine Republic is fast becoming the
+leading factor in the production of meat to satisfy the world's
+consumption.</p>
+
+<p>Cattle on the outside fringe of occupied lands are still very coarse and
+rough, with a distinct strain of the<a name="Page_25"></a> Hereford about them; they are,
+however, a useful herd and most suitable for the districts they occupy,
+where they often have to undergo the hardships of shortage of pasture
+owing to drought, and little or no water, indeed, it is a marvel how
+these animals exist at times; and assuredly no refined breed of cattle
+could live where the Criollos not only manage to thrive, but generally
+to return a satisfactory result to their owners. The cattle on ranches
+which are nearer to the seaports, manufacturing centres, or railway
+stations show distinct improvements. Greater care is bestowed upon them,
+and the main consideration is never lost sight of&mdash;it is the ambition of
+every estanciero to have his cattle graded up so that they are looked
+upon as &quot;freezers,&quot; which means that they are good enough to be
+purchased by one or other of the refrigerating companies, who take
+nothing but the best.</p>
+
+<p>In 1888 cattle running the northern camps (which then represented the
+extreme outlying posts) were only valued at $6 per head.</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>In</td><td align='left'>1890</td><td align='left'>the value</td><td align='left'>had risen</td><td align='left'>to</td><td align='left'>$10</td><td align='left'>per head.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1900</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>15</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>28</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1910</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>40</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>The question of stock raising and the object to be obtained must rest
+with the owners: they must decide whether the land is to be utilised for
+fattening cattle or for breeding the high-class animals for which there
+is an ever-ready market. To show the enormous value of animals and the
+high standard to which agricultural lands can be brought, mention must
+be made of two estancias near Buenos Aires, viz., those belonging to
+Messrs. Cobo and Messrs. Bell, where splendid stock is always to be
+found. To give some idea of the high price paid for first-class pedigree
+animals, it may be mentioned that &pound;3,800 was paid for a prize Durham
+bull which was sold to Argentina!</p><a name="Page_26"></a>
+
+<p>At the cattle show at Buenos Aires held in July, 1910, Herefords for
+killing realized from &pound;850 to &pound;1,000 per animal! These latter high
+prices were, however, evidently paid by the agents of Cold Storage
+Companies for advertising purposes. One representative explained that
+the freezing Companies desired to encourage breeders, and that his
+Company paid the high prices mentioned above so as to let the breeders
+know that they would always be paid high prices for first-class cattle.</p>
+
+<p>When we consider the really important position which Argentina takes as
+a food producer, it appears incredible that the English nation (business
+men and the general public alike) is so extremely ignorant, as a rule,
+of prevailing conditions. I do not refer to those who have invested
+their money in the many channels known to the River Plate circle. But
+men holding high official positions speak of our commercial interests in
+Argentina as &quot;something between a hundred and a hundred and fifty
+millions,&quot; and then in a whispered side-speech indicate the dangers of
+revolution.</p>
+
+<p>Often it is suggested that the chances of death from small-pox, yellow
+fever, and even from murder are a serious drawback to what might
+otherwise be a country possible to live in. It makes one very indignant
+to hear these statements from the lips of those who probably have never
+left their own country. Let me assure you they may be swept aside, and
+were it not for their frequent reiteration it would be unnecessary to
+say that there is not one grain of truth in these suggestions as applied
+to the state of things to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly one-fifth of the population of Argentina is centred in and around
+Buenos Aires. It is a city of 1,200,000 inhabitants, many of whom are
+millionaires; but at the same time there exists much poverty within its
+precincts&mdash;poverty caused in no small degree by the vicious<a name="Page_27"></a>ness of the
+rich, but to a far greater extent by the rooted objection of certain
+classes to go out to the camps where, during the harvest time at least,
+wages are high and labour is anxiously awaited.</p>
+
+<p>When we compare the health of this city of Buenos Aires with that of
+other large cities, we can see what has been done in the way of
+improvements in the last few years. A glance at the following tables
+will give some idea of what has been accomplished. The natural increase
+of the population of Buenos Aires between 1898 and 1907 was 19.1 per
+1,000, and no other city equals this.</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>The increase in</td><td align='left'>London</td><td align='left'>was</td><td align='left'>8.8</td><td align='left'>per 1,000.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>Berlin</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>8.5</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>New York</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>5.7</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>St. Petersburg</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>4.6</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr></table>
+
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>The birth-rate of </td><td align='left'>Buenos Aires</td><td align='left'> for 1908 was </td><td align='left'>34.3.</td><td align='left'>Per 1,000.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>London</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>25.7.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>Berlin</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>23.3.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>New York</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>28.5.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>St. Petersburg</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>27.5.</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Both these tables are, however, probably affected by the great number of
+immigrants finding their way to Argentina, many of whom remain in Buenos
+Aires.</p>
+
+<p>The health of the City may be well gauged by the death-rate for the year
+1907.</p>
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Buenos Aires</td><td align='left'>stands well with</td><td align='left'>15.2</td><td align='left'>per 1,000</td><td align='left'>inhabitants.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>London</td><td align='left'>has a death-rate of</td><td align='left'>15.1</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Berlin</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>14.8</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New York</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>18.6</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Petersburg</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>25.7</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>(Undoubtedly the high rate shown by the last-named city is greatly due
+to the foul condition of the Neva.)</p>
+
+<p>To appreciate thoroughly the position which Buenos Aires now holds, and
+the strides which have been made in <a name="Page_28"></a>regard to the sanitation of the
+City, we have but to look at the past. Between the years 1889 and 1898
+the death-rate per thousand was as high as 22.9 per 1,000; from 1899 to
+1908 it was only 16.6, and now the record stands at 15.2 per 1,000.</p>
+
+<p>The authorities are justly proud of what has been done, and will not
+diminish their efforts so long as there is work to do and problems to
+solve.</p>
+
+<p>I should like to state once more the fact that the United Kingdom
+depends upon Argentina for nearly one-fourth of her food supply
+purchased abroad. I want to impress upon your mind the seriousness of
+the position, for this proportion of one-fourth will be largely
+increased in the near future, for reasons already stated.</p>
+
+<p>The question has often been asked, &quot;Is it safe to buy land in
+Argentina?&quot; But the drift of this query too often is merely
+self-interest; in other words, it really means &quot;Can I successfully
+speculate in land?&quot; Clearly the matter is solely a personal one, no
+other consideration is thought of, so one is tempted to give an evasive
+answer. Should the questioner, however, be a young fellow, with God's
+gift of health and plenty of truth and grit in him, who wants not only
+to acquire the land, but to work it, then, indeed, there is but one
+answer, and that is in the affirmative&mdash;let him go, and let him ever
+remember that he is an Englishman and that England is judged by the
+conduct of her sons: but do not let him make the great mistake a
+newcomer so often falls into, which is, that because he is an Englishman
+all other nationalities must be inferior, and that by some sort of
+divine right he has been created lord of all. Let him realise that those
+whom he meets in Argentina are as noble and pure as those he left at
+home. Argentina offers to-day a splendid opening for the best of
+England's sons, but she does not want the loafer nor the ne'er-do-well.
+Can it <a name="Page_29"></a>be wondered at that England's prestige is seriously injured when
+so many of the &quot;wasters,&quot; and worse, are sent from the country? It is
+but natural that from these, who go to foreign countries, England is
+judged. To my mind we should send abroad men who are bound to succeed,
+men who never forget that from their behaviour the Mother Country will
+be appraised. Argentina will embrace and reward them, but she will spurn
+and despise the dissolute and drunken.</p>
+
+<p>The advice I would give to all those thinking of trying Argentina as a
+field for agricultural work is to remember that to be successful one
+must begin at the bottom, the harder the school the better will be the
+result: you cannot detect and correct the faults which militate against
+success unless you have been through the mill. Not long ago I sent a boy
+out to Argentina and painted the first two years of learning in the new
+country in rather lurid colours. I explained and dwelt on the
+hardships&mdash;indeed, I described it as &quot;a dog's life.&quot; Within a year, the
+lad wrote home to his parents and mentioned all that I had told him, but
+finished up by saying, &quot;There's plenty of 'life' about it, but not much
+'dog.'&quot; The truth is that the boy had accepted things as they came along
+and had adapted himself to his surroundings, and, I predict, he will
+never regret having left his home, where opportunities were cramped by
+small surroundings, for the wider field of Argentina.</p>
+
+<p>A great many Englishmen resident in Argentina, whose sons are looking
+forward to finding their life's work in that country, send their boys
+home to England to be educated. Far be it from me to deprecate the
+training acquired by English public school life, but it might well be
+worth while to consider the other phase. The boy who has had his
+schooling in Argentina and goes through his training and passes into one
+of their Universities will have to his credit <a name="Page_30"></a>something which cannot be
+bought by money or influence by boys straight out from home. He will
+have been a fellow student, and worked shoulder to shoulder with men who
+will in due time occupy positions of power and influence, and it is just
+as well to weigh out these things before deciding where to educate your
+boy. A boy born in Argentina, whatever the nationality of his parents
+may be, is by Argentine law an Argentine subject, and should be brought
+up to appreciate that he is liable to be called upon to go through a
+military course: the Argentine boy, who has had just as gentle an
+upbringing as the English boy, is compelled to serve his time in the
+army if called upon, and generally the discipline engendered by this
+training has not only been good for him, but is a distinctly valuable
+asset to the country, and the English boy, as well as a boy of any other
+parentage born in the country, will be obliged to go through this
+military training if required.</p>
+
+<p>I venture to think that were England to adopt compulsory military
+service in some shape or form, we should hear a great deal less of the
+unemployed and &quot;don't-want-work&quot; demonstrations.</p>
+
+<p>To attempt to give a picture of Argentine life is impossible in the
+short time at my disposal. Imagine to yourself, if you can, a country of
+1,212,600 square miles whose borders extend from well within the Tropics
+to away down south to the everlasting snows, embracing all kinds of
+lands, from the very richest of soils to ice-capped and rocky peaks, and
+you must admit that to attempt to describe the various conditions of
+life therein is wellnigh impossible. Life is much what the surrounding
+conditions make it&mdash;on the extreme edge of cultivation it is distinctly
+rough, on the inner camps refinement steps in, and in the cities you
+will find just what society you wish. Amongst the cosmopolitan
+population of Buenos Aires there <a name="Page_31"></a>are many men and women of the highest
+culture and education.</p>
+
+<p>There are many Argentines, who stand out prominently from the throng of
+busy pleasure-seekers, who are devoting their lives to improving the
+surroundings of those less fortunate fellow-creatures who have fallen
+upon the thorny path, and whose portion is often the cup of bitterness.
+Indeed, I have ever found the Argentine desirous of helping those who
+seek advice and assistance; but he spurns the foreigner who degrades
+himself and his country by acts of folly which would not be permitted in
+his native land.</p>
+
+<p>Englishmen often fall into the great error of keeping themselves to
+themselves. Possibly this trait is engendered from birth and training by
+our insular position, but it is a great pity to carry it too far, for
+the Argentine people do appreciate the thoroughness of our countrymen,
+and are ready to welcome the right sort. We have taught the Argentines
+many of our national sports and games, and they have entered into them
+with such thoroughness that the teachers have often had to admit that
+the pupil has proved better than the master.</p>
+
+<p>Travelling has become an integral part of the education of the Argentine
+family to-day, and it is quite general to find young children speaking
+fluently four or five languages.</p>
+
+<p>I could wish that those who have Argentine friends would insist upon
+their seeing, when in this country, some of the Englishman's home
+surroundings, for hotel life, theatres, dinners, and music-halls are all
+very well in their way, but to see the real inwardness of English life
+you must follow the Englishman to his country home. My experience is
+that the Argentine will always refuse an invitation to your home at
+first, because of the trouble which he believes you will be put to, but
+don't take &quot;no&quot; for an answer; simply make him come, and he <a name="Page_32"></a>will thank
+you afterwards for his experience of English home life.</p>
+
+<p>Just a word or two, for fear I have left an impression that Argentina is
+the El Dorado which lies beyond the seas. There are such things as
+locusts, floods, droughts, and frosts in that country.</p>
+
+<p>The first of these&mdash;locusts&mdash;are indeed a plague which to-day it seems
+almost impossible to annihilate, for I have little faith in man's
+attempts effectually to stop or decrease this pestilence; on the other
+hand, Nature always seems to be on the alert to prevent an overthrow of
+the balance of things. Those who have spent their lives in the River
+Plate district have seen this appalling plague crushed by means which
+Nature, in her own good time, has thought fit to use.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to floods and droughts, these can, at least, be modified by
+men, and means are now being adopted to conserve the floods and render
+their waters available in time of drought.</p>
+
+<p>From frosts we seem powerless to defend ourselves, and it is only those
+whose work is in close touch with the growing and handling of crops who
+can fully appreciate the damage done by late frosts.</p>
+
+<p>No country is free from drawbacks of some sort or another, and these
+troubles which I have just mentioned will not prevent the forward march
+of progress in Argentina.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1">[A]</a><div class="note"><p> These figures are approximate</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2">[B]</a><div class="note"><p> The dollar referred to throughout this paper is the
+Argentine paper dollar, which since 1899 has had a fixed value, and is
+worth approximately 1s. 9d. Previous to that date its value fluctuated
+considerably.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3">[C]</a><div class="note"><p> A list of the other Colonies and Foreign Countries which
+largely contributed to this total will be found on the following page.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_D_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D_4">[D]</a><div class="note"><p> The other colonies and foreign countries which largely
+contributed to the totals mentioned are as follows:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>DENMARK&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Barley</td><td align='left'>&pound;22,708</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>5,988,573</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>ROUMANIA&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc.</td><td align='left'>&pound;2,564,538</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>nil.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>TURKEY (including CRETE)&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc</td><td align='left'>&pound;1,383,971</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>nil.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>TURKEY, ASIATIC&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc.</td><td align='left'>&pound;1,344,322</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>nil.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>CHILI&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc</td><td align='left'>&pound;1,099,660</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>10,682</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>BRITISH INDIA&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc</td><td align='left'>&pound;2,226,668</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>nil.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>NEW ZEALAND&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc</td><td align='left'>&pound;30,585</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>4,168,649</td></tr></table>
+
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="HISTORY_OF_THE_SANTA_FE_LAND_COMPANY_LIMITED"></a><h2><a name="Page_33"></a>HISTORY OF THE SANTA F&Eacute; LAND COMPANY, LIMITED.</h2><a name="Page_34"></a><a name="Page_35"></a>
+
+<p>In the years 1881 and 1882, Messrs. C. de Murrieta &amp; Co. acquired a
+block of land from the Government of the Province of Santa F&eacute;, and in
+December, 1882, sold one undivided half-share thereof to Messrs. Kohn,
+Reinach &amp; Co. Messrs. Murrieta &amp; Co. and Messrs. Kohn, Reinach &amp; Co.,
+having decided to develop the said lands, formed the Santa F&eacute; Land
+Company, and the prospectus appeared in July, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>The area sold to the new Company was said to comprise about 650 Spanish
+leagues, or 4,336,150 English acres, and the price to be paid to the
+vendors was &pound;1,050 per league.</p>
+
+<p>In order to provide a port of shipment on the Rio Parana the Company
+bought a further lot of 323 acres in the Colony of Romang.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the original block of land, the Company has since bought
+the following areas:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>The estancia of La Barrancosa, 10,801 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>26,678</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>The estancia of Santa Catalina, 4,049 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>10,002</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>A strip of land at Guaycuru on the eastern boundary
+of the Company's forest lands, 1,636 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>4,041</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>A piece of land at Venado Tuerto, 37 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>91</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>A piece of land at Arrufo, 100 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>247</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>A piece of land at Tostado, 50 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>123</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Total:&mdash;</td><td align='right'>41,182</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Since the beginning of the Company the total area of land sold has
+amounted to 709,549 acres (up to 30th June,<a name="Page_36"></a> 1910). It is calculated
+that the land comprised in the Bazan claim, to which reference is made
+later on, measures 582,914 acres. Upon this supposition the Company now
+owns 3,044,100 acres.</p>
+
+<p>The original price paid for the Company's lands worked out at about 3s.
+an acre.</p>
+
+<p>The original capital of the Company was &pound;875,000, of which over &pound;675,566
+was paid to the vendors, leaving a balance of &pound;199,434 to meet the
+preliminary expenses and the initial cost of opening up the new
+properties. After some years it was found necessary to write off a
+portion of the capital, and accordingly, in 1897, the Company's lands
+were re-valued at approximately 2s. 9d. an acre.</p>
+
+<p>The present Directors of the Company are:&mdash;</p>
+
+<ul><li>Mr. CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE (<i>Chairman</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. IVOR BEVAN.</li>
+<li>Mr. GORDON H. BROWN.</li>
+<li>LORD HAWKE.</li>
+<li>Mr. LOUIS H. KIEK.</li>
+<li>Mr. T.E. PRESTON.</li>
+<li>Capt. The Hon. F.C. STANLEY.</li></ul>
+
+
+<p>The London Office is at 779, Salisbury House, Finsbury Circus, London,
+E.C., and the Secretary of the Company is Mr. David Simpson. The Head
+Office in the Argentine is at 761, Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires, and
+the following are the principal officers of the Company in Argentina:&mdash;</p>
+
+<ul><li>Mr. HUGH M. RATTRAY (<i>General Manager</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. W.B. WHIGHAM (<i>Manager of the Cattle and Lands Department at Sun Cristobal</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. R.N. LAND (<i>Manager at Santa Catalina</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. T. SCOTT ROBSON (<i>Manager at La Barrancosa</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. G.L.C. GITTINS (<i>Acting Manager of the Woods Department</i>).</li></ul>
+
+
+<a name="Page_37"></a>
+
+<br />
+
+<h4>SHARE CAPITAL.</h4>
+
+<p>The original shares of the Company were &pound;10 each. It was decided in 1897
+to reduce them to &pound;7 fully paid, which placed the capital at &pound;612,500.
+Shortly afterwards each &pound;7 share was converted into seven shares of &pound;1
+each.</p>
+
+<p>In 1906 the shareholders authorised the creation of &pound;200,000 of fresh
+capital, which was issued to them in two blocks of &pound;154,000 in 1906 and
+&pound;46,000 in 1907.</p>
+
+<p>Fresh capital was authorised in 1908, viz., &pound;187,500, of which &pound;161,608
+was issued in 1909, and further lots have since been issued, bringing
+the total amount of authorised capital to &pound;1,000,000, and of issued
+capital at 30th June, 1910, to &pound;982,347.</p>
+
+<p>An issue of &pound;50,000 Six per Cent. Debentures was made in January, 1904;
+and the whole amount was redeemed on the 1st July, 1909.</p>
+<br />
+
+<h4>BAZAN LANDS.</h4>
+
+<p>Part of the area sold to the Company consisted of a block of
+approximately 88 Spanish leagues, or 530,000 English acres, which became
+the subject of negotiations and lawsuits between this Company, the
+Provincial Government of Santa F&eacute;, and other parties, lasting for more
+than twenty-five years. The area in question lay to the West of the Rio
+Salado, and, at the time when this Company was formed, was supposed to
+be included in the Province of Santa F&eacute;. Soon afterwards the Province of
+Santiago del Estero put forward a claim to the lands on the ground that
+the boundaries of that Province extended eastwards to the Rio Salado,
+and it therefore disputed the right of the<a name="Page_38"></a> Province of Santa F&eacute; to sell
+the lands to Messrs. Murrieta &amp; Co. in 1882.</p>
+
+<p>By an Agreement with the Government of the Province of Santa F&eacute;, the
+Santa F&eacute; Land Company took proceedings in the Supreme Courts of the
+Province to establish its rights to the land in dispute on the
+understanding that if the Company failed to establish its claim, the
+Government of the Province of Santa F&eacute; would indemnify it for its loss.
+In the result the Company was evicted from the lands, and entered into
+negotiations with the Government of the Province of Santa F&eacute; for
+indemnification. These negotiations went on for some years without
+coming to any practical conclusion, and at last the Company commenced a
+lawsuit against the Province and won it. After further delays and
+negotiations the Government agreed to issue bonds in respect of the
+Company's claim, and, in July, 1909, the Company agreed to accept
+$3,212,000 paper Bonds of the Province, carrying interest at 3&frac12; per
+cent., with an amortisation of &frac12; per cent., the coupons being
+available for payment of land tax. The Government further undertook to
+ratify the original titles of the Company, and to make a survey at the
+joint expense of both parties, for the purpose of ascertaining the exact
+area comprised in the original transfer. Any lands found to be in excess
+were to be paid for by the Company to the Government at the rate of
+$13.50, paper, per hectarea (about 8s. an acre). The price of such
+excess lands was to be recouped by the Government from the Bonds issued
+to the Company, and the Government retained $712,000 Bonds for this
+purpose, pending the result of the survey.</p>
+
+<a name="Cattle_Train_on_Central_Argentine_Railway"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image05.png" width="456" height="458" alt="Cattle Train on Central Argentine Railway, bringing
+Cattle to Barrancosa." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Cattle Train on Central Argentine Railway, bringing
+Cattle to Barrancosa.</h4>
+
+<h4>RAILWAY COMMUNICATION.</h4>
+
+<p>At the time of the formation of the Company, the nearest railway was
+that belonging to the Central Argentine<a name="Page_39"></a> Railway, and the nearest
+railway station was Rosario, but some years later, the lines now
+belonging to the French Railway Company of the Province of Santa F&eacute; were
+laid between Santa F&eacute; and San Cristobal. Subsequently the Central Norte
+Railway, which stretches northwards from San Cristobal to Tucuman, was
+built by the National Government, and in 1907, the National Government
+built a line from Santa F&eacute; to San Cristobal <i>via</i> San Justo.</p>
+
+<p>The Company have built a railway from a point north of Vera running into
+their forests, and extend it from time to time as the development of the
+wood industry demands. They further own a line from Margarita to La
+Gallareta, where the extract factory of the Compania Tanin de Santa F&eacute;
+is situated. The Company propose to build a railway from San Cristobal
+to penetrate to their northern properties, and have applied to the
+Argentine National Government for a railway concession in connection
+therewith.</p>
+<br />
+
+<h4>ADMINISTRATION.</h4>
+
+<p>After various changes of centre the administration offices of the
+Company were, in the year 1902, divided between San Cristobal for the
+cattle and lands department, and Vera for the woods department, but, in
+1906, the woods department was placed under the supervision of the
+General Manager of the Company, who lived at San Cristobal, and, in
+1908, the central offices were moved from San Cristobal to Buenos Aires.
+Through the latter office all the work of the Company in Argentina
+passes on to the London office, the managers at San Cristobal, Vera,
+Santa Catalina, and La Barrancosa, having to concern themselves only
+with the technical and administrative work carried on under them
+respectively.</p><a name="Page_40"></a>
+<br />
+
+<h4>COMPANY'S BUSINESS.</h4>
+
+<p>The Company's business has been mainly divided into three branches,
+viz.: (1) land sales and rentals; (2) cattle industry, and (3) timber
+trade.</p>
+
+<p>The first two branches are conducted from San Cristobal, situated at the
+S.W. corner of the Company's original lands, and for many years the site
+of the central offices of the Company in Argentina, whilst the timber
+trade is conducted from Vera.</p>
+<br />
+
+<h4>SAN CRISTOBAL DEPARTMENT.</h4>
+
+<p>A township was started at San Cristobal in 1884, and now numbers 4,500
+persons.</p>
+
+<p>The Administration House and other buildings for the use of the General
+Manager and Staff of the Cattle and Lands Department were erected about
+three miles from the town, and the whole now forms a large and handsome
+establishment, equipped with the most modern requisites for carrying on
+the work of the estancia.</p>
+
+<p>The cattle lands have been divided up into sections, which are managed
+by officials of the Company, under the control of the administration at
+San Cristobal. The office there and the offices on the various sections
+have recently been connected up by telephone. These sections are
+Polvareda, Michelot, Los Moyes, and Lucero (which lie to the North and
+North-East of San Cristobal), and Las Chu&ntilde;as, which forms the
+North-Western corner of the Company's lands.</p>
+
+<a name="Loading_Wheat_at_Rosario"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image06.png" width="452" height="454" alt="Loading Wheat at Rosario from the &quot;Barranca.&quot;" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Loading Wheat at Rosario from the &quot;Barranca.&quot;</h4>
+
+<a name="San_Cristobal_Estancia_House"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image07.png" width="455" height="456" alt="San Cristobal Estancia House." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>San Cristobal Estancia House.</h4>
+
+
+
+<a name="Page_41"></a>
+
+<h4>SANTA CATALINA AND LA BARRANCOSA.</h4>
+
+<p>In January, 1897, the Company rented the estancia of Santa Catalina,
+which is situated about five miles from Los Cardos on the Central
+Argentine Railway and about 150 miles South of San Cristobal. Here the
+stock which was brought down from San Cristobal was fattened before
+passing on to the markets. At the same time the Company continued the
+sowing of alfalfa which had been begun by the proprietor, and ultimately
+decided to buy the camp and use it as an establishment for breeding fine
+stock. The terms of the purchase were that the price should be paid by
+way of an annuity, payable during the joint lifetime of the owner and
+his wife. In 1909 this method of payment was compounded and satisfied in
+full by an allotment of shares of the Company.</p>
+
+<p>The practice has been that the male calves born on this estancia should
+be sent North to the general herds kept at San Cristobal and the
+adjoining sections, and that the progeny of these animals should in turn
+be sold as fat cattle.</p>
+
+<p>To facilitate this business the Company found it necessary to acquire a
+camp specially adapted for fattening purposes in the Southern part of
+the Province, so that they might be brought into closer touch with the
+markets of Rosario and Buenos Aires. They accordingly bought the
+estancia La Barrancosa in 1906, and have been constantly increasing the
+area there under alfalfa, equipping it with a full complement of wells
+and fencing. This estancia lies half way between the towns of San Isabel
+and Venado Tuerto, from the latter of which it is distant about sixteen
+miles. But, during the year 1909, a new broad-gauge railway line was
+opened, leading from Rosario to Bahia Blanca. It passes <a name="Page_42"></a>right through
+the estancia, and by means of a station just outside the boundary the
+Company have fresh means of despatching their animals to Rosario.</p>
+<br />
+
+<h4>VERA DEPARTMENT.</h4>
+
+<p>The headquarters of the Woods Department is situated about eight miles
+N.W. of the town of Vera, which stands at kilometre 250 north of the
+City of Santa F&eacute; on the line of the French Railway Company leading from
+Santa F&eacute; to Resistencia. Sawmills and offices were built, which involved
+the presence of a considerable number of work-people, for whom houses
+had to be provided. Consequently, a small village has grown up at the
+place.</p>
+
+<p>A branch railway was begun in 1905, at a point 13 kilometres north of
+Vera town, on the French Railway, to penetrate westwards into the
+Company's forests, and has been extended to a point called Olmos, lying
+30 miles away. Along the line two or three hamlets have sprung up, where
+people connected with the wood industry reside, as well as the Company's
+officials who control the timber in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>In 1904 the Company entered into an agreement with Messrs. Albert and
+Charles Harteneck, Frederick and Charles Portalis, and Hermann Renner,
+to bring out a Company to work a factory for the manufacture of tannin
+extract from the wood of the Quebracho Colorado tree, and this factory
+was ultimately built within the Company's properties at a place called
+La Gallareta, which is situated 17 kilometres north-west of the Station
+of Margarita on the French Railway line. The Santa F&eacute; Land Company have
+also built a branch line from Margarita to this tannin factory.</p>
+
+<a name="Watering_Place_at_Barrancosa"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image08.png" width="459" height="455" alt="Watering-Place at Barrancosa." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Watering-Place at Barrancosa.</h4>
+
+<a name="Wood_on_the_Company39s_Own_Line_ready_for_Loading"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image09.png" width="460" height="455" alt="Wood on the Company&#39;s Own Line ready for Loading." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Wood on the Company&#39;s Own Line ready for Loading.</h4>
+
+<h4><a name="Page_44"></a>THE FOLLOWING TABLE SHOWS THE FINANCIAL POSITION OF THE COMPANY FROM
+1898 TO THE PRESENT TIME.</h4>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'>Year ending.</td><td align='center' colspan='2'>Share Capital.</td><td align='center'>Debentures 6 per cent.</td><td align='center'> Profit.</td><td align='center'> Loss.</td><td align='center'>Placed to Reserve.</td><td align='center'>Balance Forward.</td><td align='center'>Dividend (percent.)</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>Authorised.</td><td align='center'>Issued and fully paid.</td><td colspan='6'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>30th June,</td><td align='center'> 1898</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>420</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>Cr. 420</td><td align='center'>...</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1899</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>1,650</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>Dr. 1,230</td><td align='center'>...</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1900</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>11,757</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>Cr. 2,870</td><td align='center'>1&frac14;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1901</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>9,854</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>2,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 3,068</td><td align='center'>1&frac14;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1902</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>20,746</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>10,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 6,158</td><td align='center'>1&frac14;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>1903</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>23,988</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>10,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 7,896</td><td align='center'>2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1904</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>28,332</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>6,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 8,790</td><td align='center'>3&frac12;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1905</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>36,483</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>6,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 8,648</td><td align='center'>5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1906</td><td align='center'>812,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>48,183</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>6,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 11,018</td><td align='center'>6&frac12;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1907</td><td align='center'>812,500</td><td align='center'>766,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>82,700</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>12,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 20,398</td><td align='center'>8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1908</td><td align='center'>1,000,000</td><td align='center'>812,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>91,463</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'> 86,628<a name="FNanchor_E_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_E_5"><sup>[E]</sup></a></td><td align='center'> &quot; 20,611</td><td align='center'>10</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>1909</td><td align='center'>1,000,000</td><td align='center'>812,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'> 115,375</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>20,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 22,549</td><td align='center'>10 and
+Bonus of 1&frac12;</td></tr></table>
+
+<br /><hr style="width: 45%;" /><br />
+
+<a name="Loading_Timber_at_Wayside_Station"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image10.png" width="457" height="495" alt="Loading Timber at Wayside Station." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Loading Timber at Wayside Station.</h4>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_E_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_E_5">[E]</a><div class="note"><p> Including &pound;76,623 from Share Premiums.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<a name="Page_47"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="THE_VALUE_OF_LAND_IN_ARGENTINA"></a><h2>THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA.</h2>
+
+<p>When one goes to a foreign country, and more especially when he intends
+to settle there with the idea of making a fortune, he naturally turns
+his attention to the value of the land, as from this he draws his views
+of the prosperity of the country. Now, twenty-five years ago the
+Argentine had comparatively very few railways; consequently, the lands
+at any long distance from Buenos Aires (the capital) were at a very low
+value. The province of Buenos Aires, the largest in the country, has
+always been the most populated, and its lands have always commanded the
+highest prices, and these have risen tremendously, but not so much of
+late years in proportion as land in the northern provinces. During the
+years 1885, 1886, 1887, and 1888, there was a great boom in land.
+Foreigners were pouring in, bringing capital; great confidence was put
+by foreign capitalists in the country, several railways had run out new
+branches, new railways were built, new banks were opened, and a very
+large extent of land was opened up and cultivated, and put under wheat
+and linseed, harvests were good and money was flowing into the country.
+Then came a very bad year, 1889; the harvest was practically lost owing
+to the heavy and continuous rains which fell from December till July
+with hardly a clear day. This, together with a bad government and the
+revolution of 1890, created a great panic and a tremendous slump in all
+land, from which it took a long time to recover. Where people had bought
+camps and mortgaged them, which was the general thing to do in those
+days, the mortgagees foreclosed, and, when the camps were <a name="Page_48"></a>auctioned
+off, they did not fetch half what the properties had been bought for in
+the first instance, some four or five years previously. This, naturally,
+had a serious effect on the credit, soundness, and finances of the
+country, but really, the crisis was not felt until some three or four
+years after, and it was 1896 and 1897 which were very serious years for
+the country.</p>
+
+<p>To give one an idea of the value of land in four or five of the
+principal provinces of the country, I must begin with the Queen
+Province, as it is called, viz., Buenos Aires. In 1885, property in the
+city centre was worth 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. a yard, whereas to-day it has
+been sold up to &pound;200 sterling per yard, while suburban lots of 20 yards
+by 60 yards realised &pound;5 and to-day are fetching &pound;150, and camp lands
+have risen from &pound;10,000, to &pound;100,000 the square league. Of course this
+is within a radius of 30 to 50 leagues of the city; lands away to the
+south and west may yet be bought at &pound;10,000, and, still further south
+towards Neuquen and the far Pampa, at &pound;2,000 per square league. The
+province of Buenos Aires is not considered good for alfalfa growing, but
+has good natural grass camps.</p>
+
+<p>The province of Santa F&eacute; is a large province, extending from the
+northern boundary of the province of Buenos Aires to Santiago del
+Estero, and contains what is known as the Gran Chaco. The southern
+portion of this province is largely dedicated to the production of
+wheat, linseed, and maize, for which it is admirably adapted. There are
+also large estancias carrying vast herds of cattle, sheep, and horses,
+while the northern portion has vast forests of very fine and valuable
+timber.</p>
+
+<a name="Wheat_ready_for_Loading_at_Station_on_Central_Argentine_Railway"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image11.png" width="454" height="453" alt="Wheat ready for Loading at Station on Central Argentine
+Railway." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Wheat ready for Loading at Station on Central Argentine
+Railway.</h4>
+
+<p>The first part of this province to be developed was the country around
+Rosario, the large port on the River Parana, where ocean-going steamers
+call. This, together with good railway accommodation in all directions
+<a name="Page_49"></a>combined with excellent land in the district, facilitates the
+cultivation of cereals on a very large scale. Property in Rosario itself
+is very valuable, and from &pound;30 to &pound;50 a yard is a common figure. In the
+immediate district of Rosario land is rarely sold in large areas, but
+may be calculated at &pound;20 an acre, whilst 40 leagues further north it is
+to-day worth &pound;50,000 a league. I know of one estancia of one league
+which was bought in 1885 for &pound;2,000, resold, after being sown down in
+alfalfa and divided into paddocks, without further improvements, at
+&pound;12,000 (this was in 1903), and again sold in 1909, certainly with
+further improvements as regards watering arrangements and more paddocks,
+house, and sheds, etc., in fact, a fair model estancia in good working
+order, for &pound;60,000. Land on the south-west of Rosario, and about 40
+leagues distant, has in the twenty-five years risen from &pound;2,000 a league
+to &pound;40,000 a league. This is for virgin camp, and to-day in these
+districts the average price can be stated at from &pound;30,000 to &pound;40,000 per
+league, yet 300 miles further north land&mdash;good land&mdash;can be had at from
+&pound;4,000 to &pound;6,000 per league.</p>
+
+<p>The next province, Cordoba, is one of the most hilly in the country, and
+has been one of the most developed during latter years. Some twenty
+years ago this was almost considered a desert, where one was told
+nothing would grow and cattle could not live. To-day it is one of the
+most prosperous; wheat and linseed are great products here, while
+alfalfa, when carefully treated, that is, not overstocked, lives for
+ever on account of the sandy soil, and water being so near the surface.
+These lands twenty years ago were valued at about &pound;500 to &pound;600 per
+league, while to-day it is difficult to acquire land under cultivation
+or alfalfa at less than &pound;30,000 per league. In the Northern part of this
+province are very valuable stone quarries.</p><a name="Page_50"></a>
+
+<p>Another province that is advancing very fast is that of San Luis. Here,
+again, it has been found that alfalfa is at home, and thrives
+splendidly. This, again, is a very sandy soil, and consequently is much
+sought after, but this land has not yet touched the value of that in the
+provinces already mentioned; it will not stand so much cropping, and
+will not carry the same amount of stock, but still the average price for
+virgin camp is from &pound;5,000 to &pound;10,000 per league. In this province there
+is a very large extent of very poor land, covered with a small shrub,
+which is not worth more than &pound;2,000 a league.</p>
+
+<p>Mendoza is a more northerly province, and mostly dedicated to the grape
+and wine industry, while a lot of fruit is also exported from there.
+Wine is made in very large quantities, and a lot of very good quality.
+The value of land varies very much. The greater portion is worth at
+present very little. The great point is to get the water concessions for
+irrigating; without irrigation the land is useless. A good vineyard in
+its prime, with good irrigation rights, is worth as much as from &pound;40 to
+&pound;50 per acre, while the ordinary camp land is at about 7s. per acre.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+<a name="The_Maker_of_Land_Values"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image12.png" width="462" height="491" alt="The Maker of Land Values." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>The Maker of Land Values.</h4>
+
+
+<a name="Page_53"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="REMARKS_ON_STORMS_AND_THE_CLIMATE_OF_THE_ARGENTINE"></a><h2>REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE.</h2>
+
+<p>The Argentine Republic, like all hot countries, is subject to very great
+hurricanes and storms. They occur most frequently in the spring and
+summer, when very sudden changes of temperature take place. The
+thermometer has often been known to drop 25 degrees within half an hour.</p>
+
+<p>A great deal of damage is always caused, trees which have taken years of
+care and trouble are ruthlessly uprooted, roofs blown off, windmills
+blown down, haystacks turned over, and valuable animals struck by
+lightning. The terrible closeness and stillness which generally precede
+a &quot;tormenta&quot; are certain forerunners of bad weather and storms. A
+terrible hailstorm which took place some time ago will always be
+remembered by its spectators. The usual signs of it were evident; the
+atmosphere had become very close and it had been extremely hot for some
+hours before. Though only about 4 p.m., it got peculiarly dark and a
+strong gale began to blow, and distant sounds of thunder were heard. A
+sudden lull came, which meant that the storm was about to break; sheets
+of lightning of every description were followed by deafening peals of
+thunder, which made man and beast tremble. Then there came a downfall of
+huge hailstones; they were just like big lumps of jagged ice; some of
+them measured about six to eight inches round and weighed over half a
+pound. This storm did a fearful lot of harm; not a leaf was left on a
+single tree, and hundreds of birds lay dead all around. Though very
+violent, this hailstorm did not last more than <a name="Page_54"></a>ten minutes, in which
+time an incalculable amount of destruction took place.</p>
+
+<p>In September, 1909, a very bad cyclone suddenly came on us. The sky
+turned black and blacker, and the clouds looked horribly wicked.
+Suddenly a terrific gale got up, which caused every window and door to
+rattle in a most alarming manner, though they had all been as well
+secured as possible. The dust seemed to filter in just the same, and in
+five minutes the house was an inch thick in it. We heard a loud bang and
+then another over our heads, and on looking out of a window we saw the
+roof of one of the outer buildings lying on the ground; part of it had
+been blown over our house and had carried away the chimney, a big iron
+one, on its way. We were told afterwards that the cook had had to use
+all her force against the kitchen window to keep it from bursting open,
+as, if the wind had got in, it would have carried away that roof as
+well. This hurricane lasted for about an hour and a-half; as soon as it
+had abated somewhat we went out to see the result. Everywhere reigned
+havoc and confusion, the whole place looked an old ruin, brick-bats,
+tiles, broken branches, loose sheets of corrugated iron lying all
+around; three roofs had been blown away, several windmills knocked down
+and carried 100 yards away, and lovely old trees had been completely
+uprooted.</p>
+
+<p>The natives, frightened of remaining in their own quarters, had, in
+their terror, deserted them and taken refuge, with their wives and
+children, in the open camp, where they fondly imagined they were safer.
+Out in the camp the roofs of most of the &quot;puestos,&quot; or huts, had been
+also carried away, leaving the occupants exposed to the cold rains and
+winds which followed.</p>
+
+<p>A peculiar feature of this storm was that it was not at all general; at
+the neighbouring &quot;estancias&quot; it was not felt <a name="Page_55"></a>at all, and some of the
+&quot;peons,&quot; who were riding in the camp at the time, said they could see
+this whirlwind coming a long way off at a tremendous rate and that it
+looked like a column of red smoke; they could not feel the effects of
+the wind either, although they were not more than half a mile away.</p>
+
+<p>This storm was followed by very heavy rains which lasted for about ten
+days, during which our house was flooded, as the wind had lifted the
+tiles and the rain was driven in through every possible place.</p>
+
+<p>Another time, when driving home from the town of Vernado Tuerto, we were
+caught in a very bad dust storm. Things became so black that we could
+not see where we were going, so we had to halt. The wind was so strong
+that the men had to get out of the carriage, which was a heavy
+covered-in waggonette, and hold the wheels down to prevent it from being
+overturned. We all looked like seaside niggers, as the dust and rain
+falling at once came down like mud on us all. One gets quite hardened to
+these severe storms. On one occasion a very rough wind began to blow,
+but, as it was a steady gale, no one took particular notice of it. It
+was after dinner, and everybody was busy playing cards. The wind made
+such a deafening noise that you could hardly hear yourself speak;
+presently some of the occupants of the house thought they would have a
+look outside to see if things were all right; when they were surprised
+to see an outer building, used for stores and machinery, roofless, and
+the roof nowhere to be seen; it was discovered afterwards on the top of
+their own house, and they had never heard it happen.</p>
+
+<p>The climate in the Argentine is very variable; we have great extremes of
+heat and cold. It is healthy as a rule, except in the swampy districts
+or during a very wet season, when a great many residents suffer from
+rheumatism.</p><a name="Page_56"></a>
+
+<p>People talk about the sudden changes of English weather, but we are
+treated just the same; one day it will be brilliantly hot and fine, and
+another day cold and miserable.</p>
+
+<p>One part of the country or another is generally suffering from drought,
+when in another part they are being flooded out.</p>
+
+<p>In the winter there is much more sunshine than there is in England; in
+the early morning it is bitterly cold, at noon on a fine day it is
+blazing hot, and then, as soon as the sun goes in, it freezes hard.</p>
+
+<p>In the summer, of course, the heat is very great, but, as it is
+generally dry, it is quite healthy.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="SOME_EXPERIENCES_OF_WORKING_ON_ESTANCIAS"></a><h2><a name="Page_57"></a>SOME EXPERIENCES OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS.</h2><a name="Page_59"></a>
+
+<p>I came out with my brother on a tramp steamer from Penarth. We took
+thirty-one days. However, time passed fairly quickly, chipping off rust
+and painting the decks, after we got over our sickness.</p>
+
+<p>Rain fell heavily as we landed at Buenos Aires, two typical <i>gringos</i>
+(greenhorns), not knowing a word of Spanish. I went to a first-class
+hotel, whose proprietor I had met in England. My first attempt to speak
+Spanish was in a tram. I asked the conductor to stop; getting out I
+said, &quot;Mucha grasa&quot; (much fat), instead of &quot;muchas gracias&quot; (many
+thanks)&mdash;then called the man a fool for laughing.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped in Buenos Aires a week and our bill came into hundreds of
+dollars, which took a big slice off our small means.</p>
+
+<p>We then went to an estancia (farm) in the Province of Cordoba. The
+estancia was fifty-one miles square, owned by an Argentine family. The
+manager was a North-American, well known in camp life.</p>
+
+<p>The estancia consisted of three sections, one where I went, another
+where my brother was, and the other the headquarters.</p>
+
+<p>I was under a young Scotchman. The camp was fifteen miles, with 3,000
+cows, 2,000 steers, and 500 mares. There was my companion, one peon
+(man), a boy, and myself. My house was made of mud walls and floor, a
+zinc roof, with a little straw. It was cool in summer, but very cold in
+winter. There was one room for ourselves, <a name="Page_60"></a>where we slept and ate, one
+for the cook (when we had one), and a kitchen. Under my bed I had a
+snake's hole; a long black snake came out in the night, and, on hearing
+a sound, would go back. I did everything to kill it, but with no
+success. Also I had two kittens which slept in my bed. One night I felt
+something soft by my feet. I thought it was the kittens, but, putting my
+hand down, I found my feet covered with blood. I jumped out of bed, and
+found a young hare half eaten and my sheets covered with blood.</p>
+
+<p>The first thing I had to do was to skin a cow, and it made me feel very
+uncomfortable to look at the horrid sight. The next day I was sent to
+fetch the fat from a dead cow. When I got there I could not see any fat
+and wondered what it was. I saw the intestines and carried them bodily
+on my new recado (native saddle). My horse got excited and I arrived
+dead beat. I told my companion I had the fat: then he burst out laughing
+and said I had got the intestines. Needless to say my recado was the
+worse for wear.</p>
+
+<p>The food was different from what I was used to, and I felt ill for a
+time.</p>
+
+<p>In the summer I was up at between three and four, having &quot;mat&eacute;-cocido&quot;
+(cooked Paraguayan tea&mdash;the native drink) with a hard biscuit; at
+eleven, breakfast of puchero (big pieces of meat boiled in a pot), then
+maize with milk and a biscuit. Sometimes tea at four, but very seldom;
+supper consisted of an asado and mat&eacute; at seven or eight o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>I had charge of two valuable stallions&mdash;they had a stable of mud and
+straw.</p>
+
+<p>At branding time the capataz (foreman) came up with his men for a week.
+Up before three o'clock, quite dark, we branded 6,000 calves, and I
+enjoyed it.</p>
+
+<p>The Boss seldom came; when he did, his trap would be <a name="Page_61"></a>sure to run over a
+piece of wire, and then we heard of it; nothing missed him.</p>
+
+<p>Then our cook began stealing provisions from the store box. We changed
+the locks three times, and each time she bought a key to the same. One
+night I asked her for some coffee. She said there was none. I could see
+she had some in a small bag, and I went to fetch it. She took up a knife
+and threatened me. I soon twisted the knife from her. Our food was bad,
+my companion was careless, and frightened of her. One day he had a row,
+and she got the sack, using strong language. We then did our own cooking
+for eight months: the first one home from camp had to begin cooking.</p>
+
+<p>The meat we got was often green and bitter. All the time we had puchero
+and asado, and an occasional ostrich egg.</p>
+
+<p>Ostriches swarmed everywhere, and it was good sport lassoing them. I
+found one nest with fifty eggs, laid by different birds. My cooking was
+rather a failure at first, the smoke was so thick we could not see each
+other. I was told to cook maize for dinner. I made a big fire, and
+cooked for three hours, and was then told I had the stallions' maize.
+Another time it was very dark; our candles, made of old clothes and
+grease, had run out. I had made some good soup, and put the pot near the
+table, then, walking by, put my foot in it: the hot grease made me hop,
+and took the skin off my foot. Our table was an old greasy box; we had
+no plates, nor forks, just a big knife. Sometimes, coming in very tired
+from a hard day, we had no strength to chop wood and make a fire; we
+just went to bed. Many days we only had an asado and mat&eacute;. Mat&eacute; I am
+very fond of&mdash;it is so refreshing and sustaining.</p>
+
+<p>My brother was only eight miles away: his section was under alfalfa, and
+he had a comfortable house. One dark night, going home from his place, I
+followed a fence until<a name="Page_62"></a> I came to a cross fence. I was going slowly,
+when, all of a sudden, my horse stopped dead, and I shot over the fence,
+the bridle and halter came off, and away went my horse, leaving me to
+continue five miles on foot.</p>
+
+<p>Bizcachas (like a big badger) were numerous. One day we dug a two-metre
+hole, and next day found eight live ones. They have teeth one and a-half
+inches long.</p>
+
+<p>Our nearest village was eighteen miles away, where I met some English
+friends, and played tennis or had some other amusement. I used to start
+back at 2.30 a.m. to be in time for work. One night I had to cross a big
+field, without a path or fence for a guide. It was dark, and lightning
+hard. I made for a light, which I thought was the house. Going for some
+time, I came to a fence&mdash;I was lost. I unsaddled and lay down to sleep,
+the rain was pouring hard, when I heard a donkey braying, so I shouted,
+and was answered by a man in a puesto (out-station). The light I saw was
+a village twelve miles away.</p>
+
+<p>My companion was very slack, and the patrons came up and sacked him.</p>
+
+<p>Then I went to the estancia house for a month, breaking in colts for
+driving. I felt rather sad at leaving my rough work. It was hard work,
+but I never had better health.</p>
+
+<p>My Boss then earned $15 per month, and his wife cooked for the men. Now
+he is one of the richest men in the country.</p>
+
+<p>There was no opening there, so the Boss sent me to a New Zealander who
+had half a league of camp, all fine stock, good alfalfa and splendid
+water. He had a big house and I expected I would live well. My first
+work was to dig up locusts' eggs for a week under a hot sun, with the
+ground very hard. The Boss was a man of forty-two, very red-faced and
+extremely rich, but as mean as possible.</p>
+
+<p>Our meals took about six to eight minutes, fast eating; <a name="Page_63"></a>he would watch
+every mouthful. At tea he would take a lot of milk and give me a little;
+he finished soon, while I burnt my throat. He allowed me a slice of
+biscuit for each meal. His cook only got $10 a month.</p>
+
+<p>In the winter we were in bed by six to seven.</p>
+
+<p>His clothes were a disgrace to any peon. He had native trousers that
+button at the foot, with top boots, no socks, his heel and big toe were
+sticking out, no vest, only a shirt and an old hat, where the grease of
+many years was visible.</p>
+
+<p>He was a splendid worker&mdash;I have not seen a better one. We used to catch
+locusts in a big zinc box pulled by two horses; the locusts were put
+into sacks, and after being left standing for four days, were carted to
+the village, where he got 10 cents a kilo. The smell in carting these
+dead locusts was simply terrible. Then I helped pick ten square of
+maize, which at first took a little skin off my hands. At branding time
+we lassoed each calf to cut off the horns. I had to sit on their necks,
+and got smothered in the face with hot blood. The Boss was very proud
+because his monthly account only came to $12 for four of us: biscuits,
+sugar, tea, and other things. He sent his clothes once in three months
+to be washed. He had few friends, no one ever came to visit him, and
+every Sunday he shut himself in his room. He bought the place for
+$90,000 and sold it for over double. He was a thorough campman, but so
+mean. One cold winter 500 cows died of starvation; rather than sell them
+at a low price he let them starve. The last thing he said was, he was
+&quot;going to New Zealand to marry an ugly lady, but she has plenty of
+money.&quot; His countrymen called him a disgrace to his country and the
+meanest in the Argentine.</p>
+
+<p>Then a kind friend found me a place on a well-known estancia in the same
+province. The manager, the second-<a name="Page_64"></a>manager, and the book-keeper were all
+Irish, born in the country. I had a good horse, which I rode fifty miles
+to the estancia.</p>
+
+<p>The second told me to have my food with the peons (men), which was
+rather disheartening. I tried to eat in the kitchen, but the French cook
+kicked me out, and for ten months I fed with the peons; they were very
+good fellows. The second and the book-keeper had meals together. The
+second-manager did no work: up at half-past eight, he went to the train,
+had a drink at the shop, then came back for dinner, slept until
+tea-time, then went to see the train pass again and have another drink,
+and came back at all hours. He had been there fourteen years and was
+only getting a hundred a month.</p>
+
+<p>The chief work was loading cattle and sheep for the big freezing
+factories. The trucks were rotten. One night we finished at 11 p.m.,
+after a hard day's work, three of us unloaded 300 quebracho posts in
+under three hours. I had a French gardener in my room who did nothing
+else but spit and talk politics.</p>
+
+<p>The Boss took me to learn shearing. I had to shear, gather the wool,
+sort it and pack it up. Each man got five cents a sheep, but it was hard
+work, all done by hand.</p>
+
+<p>Then I cut alfalfa for a fortnight&mdash;a nice easy job.</p>
+
+<p>A Catholic priest came to stay for eight days&mdash;Mass every day at 7 a.m.
+and 8 p.m., sometimes three a day. No work at all. Everyone had to
+go&mdash;the book-keeper did not, so he got the sack. I, as a Protestant,
+went to the sermons, which were very good. It was wonderful; these rough
+campmen went away quite tamed for a time. The last night the Boss got
+married at half-past twelve at night to a native lady. Another time,
+while we were at Mass, someone came to say the gardener was dying&mdash;we
+raced down, the priest in front ready to hear his confession, but when
+we <a name="Page_65"></a>got there the gardener was calmly smoking his pipe, greatly
+surprised.</p>
+
+<p>An inspector of locusts stopped all the summer. He did nothing but eat,
+sleep, and drink whisky. We had locust-killing machines of every
+description, but we did not kill ten kilos.</p>
+
+<p>The days I enjoyed were when we started out early to part some animals
+in a herd of over a thousand. At eleven we would have an asado and mat&eacute;,
+and give our horses a drink, then finish parting, and get home at
+half-past seven. The horses look wrecks, and no good, but they work all
+day&mdash;mostly galloping&mdash;and are splendid stayers.</p>
+
+<p>The Boss's brother, a very nice man of fifty, married a servant of the
+Boss, a girl of eighteen.</p>
+
+<p>Great excitement is caused by races. The Boss was keen, and the men
+talked of nothing else for days. Every Sunday there are races. Once I
+rode my horse bareback in three races of 200 metres, and won a bottle of
+beer, a packet of tobacco, and a knife.</p>
+
+<p>Then I was put in charge of fine stock. I had ten Durham bulls, two
+thoroughbred stallions, one Pecheron, eight rams and twelve pigs. I had
+a boy under me. I also had to saddle up the Boss's and the Second's
+horses, and harness the traps. Sometimes I had to wait till eleven at
+night, very tired, to unsaddle the Second's horse, as he had been making
+love to the Stationmaster's sister.</p>
+
+<p>The work was very interesting and hard, even on Sundays or feast days,
+watering, cleaning the animals, and curing any foals that were ill.</p>
+
+<p>I then moved to another room near the stable, with a newly arrived
+Italian who knew no Spanish nor English, also an Irishman just arrived.
+They could not speak to each other. The Irishman slept on the floor
+every night, and poured kerosene all over him to keep insects away.<a name="Page_66"></a> One
+day he poisoned five pigs, giving them the dip-water to drink. He had
+few clothes. He would turn them inside out, and often had three pairs of
+trousers and two shirts on.</p>
+
+<p>One day the Boss was out: the men were taming some wild colts in the
+corral. I took French leave and went. I got on five. None had had a
+saddle on before or even been handled. We lassoed them, pulled them down
+and put on the bridle. Then five men held a long rope and one put on the
+native saddle, with stirrups big enough to get your toes in. Then they
+tied a red handkerchief round my head. I mounted gently but quickly.
+Then the rope was taken off and away the colt went as fast as possible,
+with one man on each side to shove you either way, all the time bucking
+and plunging. I did not fall, but one stirrup broke. One laid down and
+would not move. It tried to bite everyone. When they go fast and buck at
+the same time it is very hard to stick on.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th of May, the great holiday in this country, I went to an
+estancia to see some friends. On my way back we had to cross a deep
+river. The coachman drove across, but one wheel went into a big hole and
+the jerk sent me out on my head, where the wheel passed over my hair,
+missing my head by inches. I was senseless. A crowd of women came and
+began weeping&mdash;they thought I was dead&mdash;then I was taken in a procession
+to the chemist, who sent me to a hospital, where I found my collar bone
+broken. I did nothing for three weeks.</p>
+
+<p>This estancia is a splendid one for learners, because there is a little
+of everything. Once I had a month with the threshing machine, sleeping
+out with the mosquitoes, and getting meat nearly raw for food; but a lot
+of money can be made from the harvest.</p>
+
+<p>Then, after a few weeks' holiday to England, we came <a name="Page_68"></a>back, and I went
+down south with my brother to sow alfalfa seed. We had a caravan on
+wheels, and learned how to plough and sow. We went to a camp
+race-meeting, where every estancia has its own tent, there is racing all
+day and dancing at night.</p>
+
+<p>I often look back upon these jolly times. Work was exacted with anything
+but kindness, but the life was simple and very healthy, and many
+pleasant reminiscences are talked over when it is my luck to join others
+around the camp fire before falling to sleep with nothing but a
+bullock's head as a pillow and a &quot;recado&quot; as a blanket and the glorious,
+starry sky above one.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="THE_SOCIAL_SIDE_OF_CAMP_LIFE"></a><h2>THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE.</h2>
+
+<p>To an outsider, life in the camps or country might be considered very
+slow: the distance between the estancias being so great, the ordinary
+form of social life is quite impossible; for instance, when one goes to
+pay a call on a neighbour, even a first call, it means going for the
+day, starting in the cool of the morning and returning in the evening,
+and so allowing the horses to have a rest. Of course, if everyone had a
+motor-car, this might not be necessary; but as yet they are very few and
+far between. This is no doubt owing to the bad roads; in most districts,
+after a few hours' rain, the roads are flooded, and what is worse still,
+&quot;pantanosa&quot; (thick, sticky mud).</p>
+
+<p>Most estancieros keep open house, and are only too pleased when people
+&quot;drop in,&quot; which they do at all times and for any meal, almost without a
+&quot;by your leave.&quot; An estancia house has to be very elastic, and ready to
+provide, at a moment's notice, board and lodging for unexpected guests.
+This is quite the nicest way of entertaining one's friends&mdash;no fuss of
+preparation, and, more often than not, a very jolly evening of cards,
+music, or games.</p>
+
+<p>It is a delightful country for men, a healthy, open-air life, with
+plenty of hard work and hard riding; each man has from four to six
+horses allowed him for working purposes, and then, as a rule (talking of
+the English mayor-domo), he has two or three polo ponies of his own.
+Sunday is the great day for polo; there is very little time in our busy
+Argentine even for a practice game during the week, so Sunday means a
+merry meeting of friends wherever there is a polo club in the district,
+people going in <a name="Page_72"></a>six or seven leagues (or even more) from one side of
+the town to meet friends who have come an equal distance from the other
+side, a thing they might not do for months if it were not for the polo
+club. Each lady takes her turn in providing tea on these polo Sundays,
+and there is great competition as to who makes the best cakes,
+especially as it often falls to the lady herself to make these luxuries.</p>
+
+<p>Wherever there is a polo club the most exciting event of the year is the
+Spring Race Meeting, two days' racing, often followed by a polo match or
+tournament with neighbouring clubs, and always as many dances as
+possible, as it is the only time in the year when enough girls can be
+collected together; every estancia house has its own party, as many as
+can be crowded in, including friends from Buenos Aires and Rosario, who
+delight in these camp meetings, and she is a proud hostess who can count
+a few girls amongst her party. I may as well add here that girls are
+almost &quot;non est&quot; in the camp, many districts for leagues and leagues
+round not being able to boast of one English girl.</p>
+
+<a name="Tennis_Party_at_Vera"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image13.png" width="460" height="490" alt="Tennis Party at Vera." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Tennis Party at Vera.</h4>
+
+<p>Most clubs hold a Gymkhana Meeting in the Autumn, which makes one more
+excitement in the year: it is a very merry meeting as a rule, with
+always a dance or two if enough girls can be found. During the Winter
+season (from April 1st to September 1st) the shooting is very good in
+most parts, and many good shooting parties are given where there is
+enough game to make it worth while asking one's friends. The bag
+consists of partridges, martinetta (similar to the pheasant) and hares
+(which are not considered worth picking up); when there are a number of
+guns, dogs are not used, but two men on horseback drag a wire through
+the grass (several in a line, if a big party), which forces the birds to
+rise, and the guns walk behind. Peons on horseback, carrying sacks, keep
+close up to them and pick up the <a name="Page_73"></a>birds as they fall, and close on their
+heels comes a big brake, into which are emptied the contents of the
+sacks as they get too heavy. The ladies of the party follow in all sorts
+and conditions of vehicles, cheering on the shooters and dispensing
+much-needed refreshments. A shoot is always followed up by a jolly
+evening, after a hot bath and a good dinner. The men, forgetting how
+tired they are, are quite ready to sing, dance, or play bridge until the
+small hours. Another great event not to be forgotten is the visit of the
+Camp Chaplain: he goes from one district to another holding services,
+every Sunday in a different place. In a well-populated district he would
+hold one about every two months, but to some places, where there are
+next to no English people, he would probably only go about once or twice
+a year. Church Sunday is quite an event, and again gives one an
+opportunity of meeting friends from a distance. The parson is very
+lenient with us as a rule, and does not object to any form of amusement
+in the afternoon, such as polo, tennis, cricket, football, or golf, and
+encourages the young men to come to <i>Church</i> (usually a room hired for
+the occasion) in costumes suitable for such. Our poor Camp Chaplain does
+not have an easy time; distances are so great that more than half his
+time is spent on the train.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<a name="Page_77"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="CARNIVAL_IN_THE_ARGENTINE"></a><h2>CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE.</h2>
+
+<p>Carnival falls every year during the week before the beginning of Lent.
+It is a general holiday, and much fun and amusement are crammed into the
+few days which precede the dull season of fasting.</p>
+
+<a name="Carnival_at_Vera"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image14.png" width="458" height="423" alt="Carnival at Vera." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Carnival at Vera.</h4>
+
+<p>Carnival is more observed in camp towns than in the bigger cities, where
+the custom of celebrating it is very much on the wane, and where the law
+forbids water-throwing and other such damp forms of amusement, which are
+winked at by the more lenient authorities in local towns.</p>
+
+<p>It is really quite a pretty sight to see a camp town during carnival.
+The one main street, which does not boast of pavements, and is generally
+a yard deep in dust, is gaily decorated with bunting and festoons. Small
+stands are put up every ten yards or so, in which the &quot;caballeros&quot; take
+up their positions and pelt the &quot;senoritas&quot; with confetti and
+&quot;serpentinas&quot; (blocks of different coloured paper which look like rolls
+of tape about 30 or 50 yards long). The elite of the &quot;pueblo&quot; drive
+round in the procession; ladies, some in the very latest creations, and
+some in beautiful fancy dresses, parade round in flower and ribbon
+bedecked carriages. A prize is generally given to the best decorated
+conveyance, and to the best fancy costume, which causes a lot of
+competition and jealousy amongst the fair sex.</p>
+
+<p>On an estancia, carnival is celebrated in a much more drastic fashion.
+On one place, the giddy members of the household have a very rowdy time
+of it, and make things very lively for the unwary. On one occasion, they
+determined to give the mayor-domo his share of the general drenching
+which he had missed; so when he rode in at midday, after a long and busy
+morning's work in the camp, <a name="Page_79"></a>he was welcomed with a volley of buckets of
+water, which were emptied over him from the top of the house, where the
+delinquents had taken up their advantageous position.</p>
+
+<p>Another time a certain young damsel, a guest in the same house, saw from
+the window her hostess entertaining one of the boys, a fresh arrival
+from England, who had ridden over from a neighbouring estancia. Prompted
+by her daring friends she was induced to take up a jug of water, and
+stealing up behind his chair, emptied the contents of the vessel over
+the visitor's head, and then bolted; the injured party, after recovering
+his self-possession, rose to the occasion and gave chase, and after a
+desperate struggle, and in spite of penitent apologies, she was borne
+off by her captor and deposited in the first tub he happened to see,
+which turned out to be a freshly painted rubbish barrel.</p>
+
+<p>There is not much respecting of persons on these occasions, the girls
+generally combine against the boys, who, as a rule, come off best. The
+most binding promises are made on both sides, who vow not to throw
+anything larger than a &quot;globo&quot; (a small balloon filled with water, which
+bursts when it touches anything solid) or &quot;poms&quot; (leaden squirt full of
+scent); but in the excitement of the fray which follows all is
+forgotten, and buckets of water, the garden hose, and even the ducking
+of some in water troughs, are the final outcome.</p>
+
+<p>The scene after an afternoon or evening's battle is very funny; girls,
+with their hair lying in dripping masses over their faces and shoulders,
+their dresses, generally the oldest of thin cotton ones, clinging
+hopelessly to their wearied forms, present a truly comic sight. When
+they are all tired of strife, they retire by common consent to the
+house, where, after discarding their soaking garments and taking a warm
+bath, they are ready to discuss the glories of the day over a
+much-wanted dinner.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="HORSE_RACING_IN_THE_ARGENTINE"></a><h2>HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.</h2>
+
+<p>In this country a great deal more racing goes on than in Europe, and it
+is not confined to the moneyed classes only. Even the &quot;peones&quot; hold
+their small meetings and match their grass-fed ponies. Estancieros and
+mayor-domos have camp race-meetings once or twice yearly at all the
+larger polo clubs, and at Palermo and Hurlingham every class of society
+in Buenos Aires may be seen on the stands.</p>
+
+<p>At Palmero race-meetings are held frequently, almost weekly in fact, on
+Sunday afternoons; and the stands are generally well filled. On days of
+festival, when there is a special programme, the place is crowded, and
+these occasions correspond, more or less, with the more important
+meetings in England.</p>
+
+<p>The course is of earth, and perfectly flat, so that the only thing which
+interferes with the view is dust. The stands are magnificent and the
+different grades of society are divided by railings, while at the back
+of each may be seen the row of offices of the &quot;Sport,&quot; which is the
+betting system of the country.</p>
+
+<p>This consists of tickets, which are sold at a fixed price, with the name
+of one of the entries. After the race there is a great rush to the
+offices, made by those who have bought the winner, to collect their
+winnings, which are the total receipts, minus a small percentage,
+divided by the number of those who bought the winner. In this way a very
+hot favourite will pay very little more than the original purchase
+money, while an outsider who wins will pay his backers perhaps ten, or
+even twenty times their <a name="Page_83"></a>deposit. There is also private betting, of
+course, but no public bookmakers.</p>
+
+<p>The horses are of very good quality, though not up to the standard of
+the classic races in Europe. A number of youngsters are imported yearly
+from England and the United States, and among them usually some good
+selling-plate winners, and one or two that have been placed in
+first-class flat races. The country also produces some excellent horses,
+and they are improving every year; the stud farms are already well known
+in Europe as some of the best in the world. Of these, the most
+important, perhaps, is the &quot;Ojo de Agua,&quot; so-called from its famous
+spring, which waters all the stables as well as dwelling quarters. It is
+the home of the famous Cyllene, whose offspring we expect to see winning
+races in the near future; Polar Star, scarcely less known, and
+Ituzaingo, a native of this country, are his present companions; while
+the remains of Gay Hermit, Stiletto, Pietermaritzburg, and Kendal, all
+of whom are well known among turf circles at home, rest beneath its
+soil. There are several other equally famous stud farms, such as the
+&quot;San Jacinto,&quot; the present home of Val d'Or, who won the Eclipse Stakes
+from Cicero, the Derby winner of that year; at another, Diamond Jubilee,
+whose list of victories is long, resided for the latter part of his
+life.</p>
+
+<p>Nor are the jockeys unworthy of their mounts, and some very fine riding
+may be witnessed both at Palermo and Hurlingham.</p>
+
+<p>In contrast to these races, run on a well-ordered course, and watched
+from luxurious stands, are the native &quot;cancha&quot; meetings, held, probably,
+at some country public-house, and run on a &quot;cancha,&quot; consisting of a
+soft piece of road, or along a fence where there are no holes. The races
+consist of matches arranged between two ponies, over short <a name="Page_84"></a>distances.
+The start is made only by agreement of both the jockeys, and thus many
+hours are wasted in their manoeuvres to get the advantage of one another
+at the start. If the judges have money on the loser, the race is often
+given a dead heat, and has to be run again. The pony of most endurance
+has usually the best chance of winning, though the race itself is short,
+as his rival may be tired out by repeated false starts. Large sums of
+money often change hands at these meetings, as the native is a born
+gambler, and understands this primitive method of racing better than the
+more complicated systems of the regular course. Owing to this, and to
+the competitors' efforts to cheat one another, not infrequently knives
+are drawn during the heated discussion which follows the race.</p>
+
+<p>The ponies are, for the most part, taken straight off the camp, though
+in some cases they have been fed on maize and trained. They are ridden
+either bareback or with the native &quot;recado,&quot; and catch-weights: as may
+be gathered from the method, it is usually &quot;owners up.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Between these two extreme classes of racing in this country are the
+English camp race-meetings, which are held by all the larger polo clubs
+once or twice a year. Being of rare occurrence, and as some, if not all,
+of the faces are open to members of other clubs, these are among the
+chief social gatherings in camp life: in many cases there is a small
+polo tournament attached, as it is the best opportunity for those who
+come from a distance, and could not come twice. Therefore it usually
+means a two or three days' holiday, and often a dance, or some
+entertainment in the evenings. Old friends exchange reminiscences, and
+new acquaintances are formed; while the ladies also make the best of the
+opportunity to put on their smartest frocks and hats.</p>
+
+<p>The races themselves, too, are the source of considerable <a name="Page_85"></a>talk and
+excitement: both horses and jockeys are well known by sight or
+reputation to the chief part of the company, and any &quot;dark horse&quot; or new
+arrival, is inspected with care and anxiety by his rivals.</p>
+
+<p>The class of horse entered varies between the three-quarter bred and the
+&quot;criollo&quot; with no pretence to breeding at all, who often carries off the
+short polo pony sprints. Occasionally there may be a thoroughbred
+entered who has been found wanting at Palermo or Hurlingham, but these
+are few and not always successful, as the longest races do not often
+exceed about a mile and a-half. As the weights correspond to
+steeplechase weights at home the jockeys are practically always
+amateurs, and a large percentage of &quot;owners up&quot; is always found. Young
+mayor-domos who have never ridden at a meeting before often find
+themselves ranged alongside of Grand National riders at the start, and
+some amusing incidents have occurred, though there is some very good
+amateur riding to be seen as well.</p>
+
+<p>The betting is on a smaller scale generally than at the native meeting,
+and is often conducted by someone setting up as a public bookmaker; at
+other times a &quot;sport&quot; is formed after the fashion of Palermo. Also the
+auction of all entries before the start of the races in the American way
+is a great favourite; the total receipts for each race are divided
+proportionately between those who bought the winner and &quot;placed&quot; horses.</p>
+
+<p>There is opportunity for a little horse-dealing too, and many good polo
+ponies to send home or play in the tournaments have been picked up in
+this way. The shorter races for ponies under polo height give an
+opportunity to the polo player, and the mayor-domo who cannot train his
+ponies for longer distances, to try the mettle of their mounts against
+outside and purer blood.</p>
+
+<p>Nowadays most of the entries are trained to some <a name="Page_86"></a>extent, though not
+many go to regular training establishments. To have a reasonable chance
+of running well in the longer races, however, it is necessary to have
+your mounts in stable exercised regularly and fed on corn. It is only
+quite lately, however, that even so much training has been adopted at
+all generally. In the old pioneer days of English estancias, when these
+clubs were formed, they raced ponies taken straight off grass and kept
+fit by riding the regular rounds of camp and stock.</p>
+
+<p>There are many tales of the great &quot;rags&quot; that happened in those days,
+and curious incidents of racing, too. On one occasion a winner of a polo
+pony race was objected to as over height. The measurement was to be
+taken after the end of the meeting; and it must be remembered that all
+ponies out in the camp are unshod. The man who had come in second went
+round to the stables before the measuring and noticed in the winner's
+stall a number of large pieces of hoof recently chopped off. The pony
+passed with an inch off his forefeet and nothing was said, though it had
+been obviously over height. That evening at bridge the owner happened to
+win considerably from the man who had lodged the complaint, who, when
+the score was to be settled, threw down some pieces of hoof on the table
+saying, &quot;Take back your dirty chips.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Nowadays, of course, things are not quite so rough and ready, and most
+of the clubs are affiliated, and run under Hurlingham or the Jockey Club
+rules, so that good sport and good feeling prevail. In fact the camp man
+looks forward to these occasions as the best bits of sport and amusement
+that he will get during the year.</p>
+
+
+<a name="Page_89"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="SUNDAYS_IN_CAMP"></a><h2>SUNDAYS IN CAMP.</h2>
+
+<p>In no place is Sunday more looked forward to and enjoyed than in camp.
+Holidays on the estancia come but seldom, and were it not for the
+welcome break that gives the campman a day of rest every week, his life
+would be a round of work, and probably make him the proverbial &quot;dull
+boy.&quot; All the busy working-days are so filled with the various duties
+that when evening comes and dinner is over the tired worker has little
+inclination for reading or any other relaxation, the thought of that
+early bell which rouses him before sunrise makes him take advantage of
+every hour's sleep he can. At an hour when the townman is thinking of
+beginning the evening's amusement at theatre or concert, the campman is
+sleeping the sound sleep that fresh air combined with hard work never
+denies. But on one evening an exception is made to these early hours,
+and that is Saturday. With the pleasant feeling of a week's work
+completed and the morrow's rest before them, our campmen begin their
+weekly holiday by an extra hour or two at billiards or music, or perhaps
+a rubber of bridge, turning in with a fervid &quot;Thank goodness,
+to-morrow's Sunday.&quot; Then the pleasure of waking at the usual hour (4
+a.m. or even earlier in summer) and remembering that it is the blessed
+Day of Rest, and having time to enjoy the extra hours, then the luxury
+of dressing at one's leisure, choosing the collar and most becoming tie
+and adjusting them with care, and coming out in spotless white duck or
+smart riding breeches, ready to enjoy whatever sport is in season;
+tennis is mostly played all the year round; and when birds are plentiful
+a shoot on the lagunas attracts the sportsman, the<a name="Page_91"></a> &quot;bag&quot; making a
+welcome variety to the dinner table; snipe, partridge, hares, and many
+varieties of duck are common in a season that has not been too dry.
+Then, to those lucky ones who have a polo club within reach, Sunday
+during the winter season is a day of real enjoyment.</p>
+
+<p>The game, which in England can only be played by men of means, can on
+the estancia be enjoyed by all at little expense, the useful little
+Argentine horses being easily trained to the game. Sometimes one finds a
+few enterprising golfers who, with not a little trouble, make a few
+&quot;greens&quot; and do a couple of rounds just to keep their hand in, but it is
+not a general camp game. It will be seen, however, that the Day of Rest
+is not one of idleness, but rather a healthful and beneficial change of
+exercise.</p>
+
+<p>Church service enters but seldom into the camp Sunday&mdash;such privileges
+are rare, although now camp parsons are more numerous than a few years
+ago&mdash;but at best one can only count on one or two services a year. When
+a Church service <i>is</i> held he would be a carping critic indeed who is
+not satisfied and pleased with the earnest attention with which the
+service is followed and the vigorous singing of hymns and chants in
+which all the boys join so lustily; it is a reminder of Home to them,
+and the familiar service is thoroughly enjoyed.</p>
+
+<p>The Day of Rest, so essential to one's well-being, seems to come round
+with such surprising rapidity that we may say truly it proves that
+estancia life, with its long hours of hard work, so far from being
+monotonous or wearisome, is a happy life. Where time flies past quickly
+it means it passes happily, and amongst the most pleasant of the days we
+spend in this land of sunshine we must count the Sundays in camp.</p>
+
+<a name="A_Day_of_Real_Enjoyment"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image15.png" width="460" height="488" alt="&quot;A Day of Real Enjoyment.&quot;" title="" />
+</center><a name="Page_92"></a>
+
+<h4>&quot;A Day of Real Enjoyment.&quot;</h4>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="THE_SERVANT_PROBLEM_IN_ARGENTINA"></a><h2>THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.</h2>
+
+<p>We often hear complaints from friends at home about the trouble they
+experience over obtaining and keeping good servants, and there is no
+doubt that the servant problem is a serious one in England, and is
+getting worse every year; but it pales into insignificance when compared
+with the trials and tribulations of those who live in the Argentine and
+have to keep house.</p>
+
+<p>From all one hears, those living in Buenos Aires and the larger towns
+have a terrible time of it with their servants, especially if they are
+not overburdened with the good things of this world in the shape of hard
+cash; but my experiences have been confined to the camp, so that of the
+town side of the question I cannot speak.</p>
+
+<p>I have been three years in the province of Cordoba, and all the servants
+I have met with except one were Argentines from the foothills of the
+Cordoba Sierras.</p>
+
+<p>They were without exception quite untrained as far as the English idea
+goes, and the first thing to do with them was usually to teach them the
+primitive ideas of cleanliness. The first servant I had was an ancient
+female named Andrea, about forty years old, and it proved quite
+impossible to get her to see the necessity of keeping anything in the
+kitchen clean, as she seemed imbued with the idea that it was great
+waste of time washing saucepans and frying-pans, as they would only get
+dirty again when next used, and the most she could be persuaded to do
+was to rub them round inside with a bit of old newspaper or a handful of
+grass. Needless to say, after a time I got tired of these methods, and
+so we parted.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_94"></a>My next servant, Angelina, was one of the best I had, as she was clean,
+which was a great consideration, and also she was quick to learn and
+soon picked up the rudiments of cooking according to our ideas; her
+great failing, however, was that she was anything but honest, and could
+not refrain from petty pilfering; and another drawback to her was her
+objection to wearing shoes or stockings in the hot weather; in spite of
+being constantly told that she must not appear without them, she would
+insist in doing so, and this was a continual cause of trouble.</p>
+
+<p>After getting rid of No. 2 our real troubles began, and we had eight
+changes in ten months. At the time we were living in wooden huts about
+two miles from a village which was a summer resort for rich people from
+Buenos Aires, and this caused a dearth of servants during the summer
+months, as the place was full from the beginning of December to the end
+of March, and people who came up for the summer and rented houses
+usually were willing to pay anything to get servants, with the result
+that we outside would get none, or only the cast-off ones. Nos. 3 and 4
+stayed but a short time. My fifth attempt was a terrible girl, too dirty
+for words; and though apparently willing to learn, too utterly lacking
+in intelligence to ever learn anything. She used to get herself into the
+most awful grimy condition, and one incident during her time with me is
+worth mentioning. I had with great difficulty one day got her to
+understand that a wood floor could not be properly cleaned with a grass
+broom dipped in cold water and just swished about over it, and, by going
+down on my knees with a scrubbing brush and hot water and soap, and
+giving a practical demonstration of how a floor should be washed, had
+started her away to clean it, and judged that I might safely leave her,
+to attend to the other household duties in the kitchen. I must tell you
+<a name="Page_95"></a>that the day previously I had given her a practical lesson in
+black-leading a stove by doing it myself while she looked on. Well,
+after an hour in the kitchen I returned to see how she was getting on,
+when I found to my great pleasure that not content with scrubbing the
+floor, she had also attacked the stove with hot water, soap, and
+scrubbing brush, with the result that my hard work of the previous day
+was all undone and the whole room well sprinkled with black specks and
+the stove a mass of rust. Two weeks of similar experiences finished our
+acquaintance, and she gave place to No. 6. After I had spent three weeks
+teaching No. 6 cooking, she quietly informed me that she was leaving at
+the end of the week to take up a place as cook in Rosario, as she now
+knew enough cooking for the position; so I had not only wasted all my
+time in teaching her, but had paid her into the bargain for learning
+enough to leave me.</p>
+
+<p>The next servant, No. 7, Alexandrina, was, I think, the worst. She was a
+Spaniard from Barcelona. She was an awful individual, and would insist
+on wearing clothes of so light and scanty a nature that she was not
+decent to have about the house; also, whenever we happened to have a
+joke of any sort to laugh over at meals, she used immediately to come in
+from the kitchen to see what was going on, and I had the greatest
+difficulty to get her to return to the kitchen. I had to get rid of her,
+because her moral reputation was anything but good, and two days in the
+week she refused to get out of bed, and told me to do my own dirty work,
+as she was ill; so at the end of two weeks she had to go. No. 8, Maria,
+was a girl direct from the sierras, and was very stupid and silly, and
+did not a single thing. One day I was buying vegetables, and she asked
+me why I wanted to buy roots, and when I told her they were to eat, she
+said even poor people could afford to <a name="Page_97"></a>buy meat, and she would not eat
+them. One day I took this girl out with me to do some shopping, and
+called on some people who had a piano. It was twilight, and someone was
+playing the piano, and she rushed in the room and out again, with her
+face very white, and said someone was beating a big, black animal in the
+corner of the room, and it was screaming dreadfully with the pain. This
+girl's mother was a very talkative old lady, and would insist on coming
+with three children every day and taking up her position in the kitchen,
+and when once she commenced to talk, one could not get away from her. At
+the end of the month she came for the girl's pay, and wanted me to pay
+her more money, which I was not willing to do, as I had been unable to
+teach her much; so she asked if her daughter might go away for the day
+and night, as she had to bath. This I was only too willing to agree to,
+and let her go; but they returned in the middle of the night, and
+removed all her belongings. After a few days I managed to get No. 9, who
+was a widow with two children: but she only stayed two weeks. Our tenth
+and last attempt was made with No. 4 once more, as she was again able to
+come to us. She stayed two months, when we went away for four weeks'
+holiday. A week after our return I paid her in full for the month,
+though she had never been near the house all that time, and she promptly
+said she could not stay with us any longer, and left. We nearly got to
+No. 11, as we engaged a girl to come at $20 a month to start with, and
+she was to come the next morning at eight o'clock to begin work. She
+arrived at 10 a.m., and informed me that, as we had paid our last
+servant $25 the month, she could not come for less. I was so sick and
+tired of my experiences that this finished me, and I decided to do
+without any servant. Since then, for the last year, I have done the work
+myself.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="POLICE_OF_A_BYGONE_DAY"></a><h2>POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.</h2>
+
+<p>Yes, times have changed since I went to San Cristobal just twenty years
+ago. For then the English were pioneers, so to speak; not in a country
+of savagery, but of semi-savagery, a very different and much worse
+matter. I wonder is A.J., the Chief of Police, still to the fore? Ye
+gods, how that man tried to break my heart, and how nearly he succeeded!
+I was a Mayor-domo then, and G. was my boss, standing in the place of
+the owners to me. The boss had a mortal dread of the police and their
+powers, seen and unseen. So that when the worthy Chief of Police
+suddenly decided to add the trade of butchering to his many lucrative
+businesses, I received orders to sell him cows at twenty-five per cent.
+less price than I sold to any of his competitors. Thus, whereas I was
+selling them at twenty dollars paper, then worth about one pound per
+head, I had to sell him at fifteen shillings, with the inevitable result
+that he almost immediately became master of the situation and the entire
+local market became his, enabling him to charge what he liked for meat,
+while I was forbidden to raise the price of the cows sold him.</p>
+
+<p>Insatiable in his greed, he began to ask for cattle twice a week, always
+taking from ten to twenty animals, until one day, after exceptionally
+wet weather, I protested that it was not possible to round up the stock
+in the then state of the camp and destroy so much grass for a small
+bunch of cows. Unlucky thought and ill-judged protest! For when he urged
+that the inhabitants of the town were starving, and that a small point
+of half-breed heifers would do to go on with, I received orders to let
+him part out from our best <a name="Page_101"></a>herd. Twenty fine half-bred Herefords did he
+pick while I almost shed tears of blood, though all the time, of course,
+I had to show a smiling face.</p>
+
+<p>This sort of thing had been going on for some time, when one of the
+boundary riders told me that the fence between the town and one of our
+nearest paddocks had been cut during the night.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Then mend it up,&quot; said I.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sir, it is mended already.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Not a week had passed before the same man brought me the same report. So
+I determined to &quot;parar rodeo&quot; (round up the cattle) immediately, and
+count them. Twenty heifers short in one square league, and in less than
+a month! This thing had to stop. I told the Capataz to take the boundary
+rider off that beat, without telling him why, and then the Capataz and I
+patrolled the fence night after night for a week, during which it was
+never cut.</p>
+
+<p>We put a new boundary rider on, and three mornings later he came to see
+me bright and early, saying that not only had the fence been cut, but
+that there were distinct traces of cattle having passed out recently.</p>
+
+<p>After assuring myself that there was no doubt about the matter, for I
+found the hoof marks of what I calculated to be not less than twenty
+animals, I went post haste to my friend the Chief of Police, never
+doubting that after all the favours shown him he would prove a friend in
+need. I was young then.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You don't say so, Don Ernesto!&quot; said his podgy, putty-faced little
+Highness. &quot;Where was it? When was&mdash;&mdash;&mdash; By heavens, somebody shall
+suffer for this! Just let me or any of my soldiers catch the thieves,
+and not one of them shall reach Santa F&eacute; alive. Now, I'll tell you what.
+Just leave it to me, and don't you worry nor think any more about the
+matter, much less mention it to a soul.<a name="Page_102"></a> In less than two days I'll have
+the thief or thieves here in the stocks.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I told him plainly that that was not my programme, and that, whatever he
+did, I was not going to leave that fence unpatrolled until I could move
+the stock out of the paddock.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Then this is what we'll do, Don Ernesto. You shall be one of us. You
+come and dine with me at six o'clock this evening, and afterwards we'll
+go out with the sergeant and five or six men and catch 'em.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>It was about the equinox, if I remember rightly&mdash;the springtime, when
+everything is lovely and lovable: the camp flowers all in bloom, the
+aroma of the trees burdening the air with delicious perfume, the fresh
+verdure and plenty of grass, the powerful, stout-hearted bounding of the
+horse (no longer &quot;poor&quot;) beneath one, and, above all, the great issue
+expected of the business in hand, the most important business to me in
+the world at the time&mdash;all these combined spelled but one word, &quot;Hope!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Carbine in hand, Colt in holster, I arrived at his residence. There he
+was, sitting at the door of his corner house, whence he could look down
+three streets at once. How like a spider, I thought.</p>
+
+<p>His welcome was cordial, but he seemed to smile at my eagerness, and
+told me that he never dined before eight.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But let us sit here in the cool of the evening,&quot; said he, handing out a
+chair for me to sit by him on the footpath, &quot;and let us take some
+refreshment to while away the time. But, tell me, where did you say that
+the fence was cut? But did you really see signs that cattle had passed?
+Preposterous! The sons of guns shall suffer for this. Eh well, I'm glad
+of it in a way&mdash;glad to have a little work, and perhaps a little
+excitement. It doesn't do to have a too <a name="Page_103"></a>orderly district, for the
+Governor and his satellites in Santa F&eacute; imagine I'm lazy and not looking
+after my business if they hear of no commotions. That black fellow you
+sent me the other day, Don Ernesto&mdash;the fellow that was molesting a mad
+woman in the camp&mdash;- I've got him seventeen years in the line for that.
+I wish you would send me a few more, for hardly a letter comes from
+Santa F&eacute; in which I am not asked to send in recruits, so hard up are
+they for Provincial soldiers.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Just then a poor Italian colonist came up, hat in hand. He, too, and all
+his class were pioneers in those days, and God knows what they suffered.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well, what d'ye want?&quot; asked my companion.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sir,&quot; said the wretched man, stuttering in his nervousness, &quot;one of my
+bullocks has been stolen, and I know the thief. I have been to the
+Justice of the Peace, and he told me to bring the thief to him; but,
+sir, the th-thief refuses to come.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<i>Bueno</i>! Ten dollars, and ten dollars <i>down</i>,&quot; roared the majesty of
+law.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But, sir,&mdash;&mdash;&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;No! But me no buts! Ten dollars at once, or I'll call the sergeant to
+lock you up until you can get it.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I could see that the poor fellow's heart was breaking as he drew the
+money from his pocket and handed it over. Smilingly the bully turned to
+me and said, as his victim walked slowly away, &quot;I'll bet you that that
+man doesn't come around to molest me again. I'll guarantee to you, Don
+Ernesto, that there isn't a district in the whole province where so few
+appeals for justice are made.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>At last it was dinner-time, and, being ushered into a dirty room with a
+brick floor, dim light and grimy tablecloth, I seated myself at the
+table with my host, his secretary, the doctor, and a clerk. The dinner
+was in the <a name="Page_104"></a>usual native style of those days: ribs of beef roasted on
+the gridiron, beef and pumpkin boiled together, to finish up with
+&quot;caldo,&quot; which is simply the water in which the beef and vegetables have
+been boiled, with a good thick coating of grease.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner had we begun dinner than it was noticed that we had no wine.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;No wine! How's this? What d'ye mean?&quot; as he angrily turned to the
+sergeant who was waiting.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If you please, sir, So-and-so and So-and-so,&quot; mentioning the name of a
+local firm of storekeepers, &quot;say that they can supply no more wine until
+they can get some of their accounts settled.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;How dare you bring me such a message as that! Take the corporal with a
+couple of men and bring a half-barrel at once&mdash;in less than three
+minutes, or I'll know the reason why.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The barrel was brought, and, with a bit and brace, quickly tapped, and
+the wine set flowing round the table.</p>
+
+<p>The dinner dragged on and on, until I thought he meant us to sit there
+all night. Ten o'clock came, half-past, and then eleven. Then I began to
+smell a rat. I kept on urging the necessity for action, but it became
+more and more evident that the Chief was fooling. He pressed wine upon
+all and upon me in particular, while he drank little himself, although
+he pretended otherwise. At last, I could stand it no longer, and got up
+in no very good humour to go.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;No, but stop, Don Ernesto! Where are you going? Sit down again. The
+horses are not saddled yet: not even caught up. Sit down and have
+patience and we'll all go with you in good time.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>It was after twelve when at last we made a start. There were the Chief,
+the sergeant, a corporal, four men, <a name="Page_105"></a>and myself. We rode slowly in a
+northerly direction until we came to a small gate in the fence, of which
+I had the key. All the way thither the Chief, while commending me for my
+forethought in bringing arms, had been impressing upon me the importance
+of not using them, no matter what happened, &quot;Because, you see, you are
+not an arm of the law, and if you were to shoot anyone, I should be
+obliged to arrest you and send you to Santa F&eacute;.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>When we got through the fence, what was my surprise when the Chief said,
+&quot;Bueno, Don Ernesto, you and I have had a long day. What I propose is
+that you and I off-saddle and doss down here, while the sergeant and men
+patrol with muffled bits and spurs at a short distance from the fence.
+Then the moment they hear anything they can come and let us know!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>In vain I protested that this was not my idea at all, and that I too
+wanted to do the patrolling, but when he told a man to take the saddle
+off my horse and shake down a bed for me, I thought it wiser to
+acquiesce, or, at least, appear to do so. I shall never forget that
+night. How we talked and talked and talked as we lay beneath the
+brilliant stars, I, boiling with rage and anxiety under my assumed
+tranquillity, while he, doubtless, was as much annoyed at having to keep
+me in conversation. It must have been nearly four o'clock when I told
+him that I really must sleep. &quot;Bueno,&quot; said he, as he rolled over on his
+side, &quot;hasta ma&ntilde;ana.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>In five minutes he was snoring. Even so, I did not dare to move, for
+fear that he might be foxing. About an hour passed, during which he
+moved, coughed, expectorated, and had other signs of conscious
+animation, much to my disgust, until at last I thought the snoring
+sounded too genuine to be shammed, so I crept towards him and whispered
+in his ear that I thought I heard sounds of <a name="Page_106"></a>movement. But his snoring
+was rhythmic and swinish, so I gathered up my saddle and gear and stole
+over to my horse, which was picketed some yards off, and proceeded to
+saddle him up. In doing so, my stirrups somehow clashed and thought it
+was all up, for what a fool I should look if he woke and discovered me.
+But it was all right: the music continued.</p>
+
+<p>I led the horse for some little distance, then mounting, I rode him down
+alongside the fence for about a mile until I came to a fresh gap in it.</p>
+
+<p>Horror! Even though it was but what my suspicions had depicted, the
+realisation came as a shock to me. &quot;The&mdash;! The&mdash;!&quot; To repeat my
+expressions would edify no one.</p>
+
+<p>Guided by the signal-lights at the station, I moved along at a smart
+trot and soon recognised the quick tramping of animals ahead. Then I
+drew back, and as the day was just breaking, I drew round to the west
+side of the cavalcade, so that I might see without being seen. Yes, sure
+enough, there were six military chacots outlined against the great sky
+and a troop of animals ahead of them.</p>
+
+<p>I halted to let them get well away from me, and then, with rage and
+hatred in my heart, swearing vengeance all the while, I galloped as hard
+as ever I could to the estancia, to impatiently await the uprising of my
+boss.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;We must wire, or one of us must go to the Governor in Santa F&eacute; at
+once,&quot; I urged. But what was my disgust to be met with but a quiet smile
+of amusement!</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Not if I know it,&quot; said he. &quot;Why, good God, man, do you want to have
+all our throats cut? This man is a personal friend of the Governor's,
+and what satisfaction do you think we are likely to get out of that?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Then let us go to the Consul, the British Minister, or even to the
+President of the Republic?&quot;</p><a name="Page_107"></a>
+
+<p>A quiet smile with a negatory shake of the head was the only answer.</p>
+
+<p>A fortnight later I sought him in his private sitting-room and found the
+Chief of Police sitting in an easy-chair.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Ha! ha! ha! Don Ernesto. So you caught us, did you? Well, it was worth
+the fun. I never laughed so much in all my life as when I awoke that
+morning and found that you had given me the slip!&quot;</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="A_VISIT_TO_THE_NORTHERN_CHACO"></a><h2>A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO.</h2>
+
+<p>After three years on an estancia in the vast monotonous, treeless, but
+most fertile plains of the Central Argentine, under scorching sun,
+driving rains, and biting wind, one feels that one would like to see a
+river sometimes, animal life and more congenial surroundings; and so I
+determined to visit the Northern Chaco, that enormous tract of land
+which lies North of Santa F&eacute; and stretches right away for many hundreds
+of miles to North, East, and West.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Rosario by the night express, one crosses the great, slightly
+undulating plains, probably among the richest in the world for the
+growth of wheat, linseed, and maize, reaching Santa F&eacute; early the
+following morning. This town, the capital and Government centre of the
+province, is rather an uninteresting place; chiefly noticeable in it are
+the great number of fine churches and the magnificent sawmills owned by
+a large French company. Santa F&eacute; is supposed to be one of the most
+religious centres in the Republic. More than once it has almost been
+washed away in an eddy of the giant Parana in flood, the water rising
+four feet in the houses on the highest level in the town.</p>
+
+<p>After spending a day of sight-seeing in Santa F&eacute;, we embarked at
+nightfall for Vera, the headquarters of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company's wood
+department, arriving there in the early morning. The land around here
+from the train appears to be a dry, salty country, devoid of herbage,
+and only valuable on account of the excellent forest trees and timber.</p>
+
+<p>Our morning meal was taken in the station waiting-room (the only
+restaurant in the town), and consisted of cold <a name="Page_110"></a>coffee and what the
+Argentine understands by boiled eggs, which have in reality been in
+boiling water half a minute, and which, in order to eat, one has to tip
+into a wine-glass and beat up with a fork, adding pepper and salt, etc.
+This is the general way of eating eggs in South America; an egg cup is
+one of the few things one cannot get in the country without going to an
+English store in Buenos Aires.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Vera at 8 a.m. the train goes at a snail's pace along the branch
+line to Reconquista, covering the distance of about thirty leagues in
+five hours. Arriving there in the sweltering midday heat, we were met by
+an English friend and his capataz, the latter dressed in his enormous
+slouch hat, deerskin apron, and silver spurs weighing probably a full
+kilo.</p>
+
+<p>One cannot help noticing at once the different type of natives; from the
+slow, slouching, don't-care kind of men, which one sees in Cordoba and
+Southern Santa F&eacute;, to the quick, straight, hawk-eyed half-Indian
+Chaquenos.</p>
+
+<p>Reconquista on a hot summer's day is one of the dirtiest places on this
+earth, which is saying a good deal. One drives through streets two feet
+deep in light sandy dust, which hangs in clouds all over the town. There
+is an excellent hotel in the centre of the town, built on typical
+Spanish plans with fine large open patios, which are filled with
+splendid tropical plants and ferns. Having washed off the dust of three
+days' travel from our weary persons, and having changed into more
+suitable travelling gear, we sat down to an excellent spread.</p>
+
+<p>In the cool of the evening we made a tour of the town, being most
+interested in the cigar factories, where we bought excellent smokes for
+$2 a hundred, all hand-made from pure tobacco leaf by the brown-hued
+lasses of Reconquista.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the evening we spent in unpacking our <a name="Page_111"></a>native saddles, and
+preparing everything for our long horseback journey&mdash;not having
+forgotten to see that our tropilla of fifteen grey ponies were fit and
+ready to make an early start next morning.</p>
+
+<p>Three a.m. next morning found us out in the &quot;corrales&quot; having our ponies
+allotted to us by the capataz&mdash;we found the tropilla on &quot;ronda&quot;&mdash;that
+is, in a corner with a lasso tied across in front of them, the height of
+their chests, and all facing outwards. This is the most general way of
+teaching horses to stand in the Chaco, as, if taught to stand singly,
+they would fall too easy a prey to the Indians and gauchos. In order to
+saddle these ponies we had to &quot;manear&quot; them, that is, tie their forelegs
+together, for without this they refused to let us put the blankets on
+their backs.</p>
+
+<p>All being ready, we started off, four of us, two in front and two
+behind, with eleven loose ponies between us. By this time the sky was
+beginning to grow light, and evidently the fresh morning air had
+disagreed with my friend T.'s horse, which suddenly cleared down a side
+street with his head between his forelegs and his back arched like the
+bend in an archer's bow.</p>
+
+<p>After some seconds of this amusing sight T. managed to get the pony's
+head up and came along again, looking very warm and beaming; his
+pink-nosed pony quite satisfied that he would have to carry more than
+his own weight for some distance further.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Reconquista on the north we crossed, over an old railway
+embankment, a large stretch of low country, through which a small stream
+glided with winding course, and jogging along league after league we
+gradually got into more interesting country: little clumps of trees with
+very thick undergrowth, clinging creepers, bright-coloured flowers, and
+gorgeously plumaged birds.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_112"></a>All along the sides of the roads were little farms, apparently
+uncultivated, except for small patches of wonderfully grown maize and
+browning linseed. Practically all these farms are owned by Swiss and
+German peasants, each one with his small herd of cows and working
+bullocks.</p>
+
+<p>We changed our ponies every three or four leagues, always going at the
+same jog-trot, stopping occasionally at a wayside inn to wet our parched
+throats with fresh well water (with a drop of ca&ntilde;a in it to kill the
+microbes), and smoking hard all the time to keep off the swarms of
+mosquitoes.</p>
+
+<p>After travelling ten leagues or so we began to leave these habitations
+behind us, and got into wilder country with no fences, only long
+stretches of undulating land, dotted with patches of splendid-looking
+trees and enticing shade.</p>
+
+<p>The road occasionally crossed small streams, which gradually became more
+tropical looking, until we came to quite a large river, two or three
+hundred metres wide, looking beautifully peaceful and oily. Standing
+above on the bank, in the shade of some magnificent quebracho trees, we
+looked down upon this lazy stretch of perfect scenery, when suddenly
+there was a slight disturbance in the water and a small black dot
+appeared on the top of the water. The capataz at once pulled out his
+revolver, all of us doing likewise, only to have to put them back again,
+as the dot had disappeared as quickly as it came. This was the first
+sign of wild animal life we saw, the &quot;jacar&eacute;&quot; or alligator. In the more
+civilised parts of the Chaco, these animals, as well as the carpincho or
+water-hog, are getting quite rare, and having been so much shot at and
+worried they need the most careful stalking.</p>
+
+<p>As we got further away, we came upon many more of these streams, all
+looking much the same; some had bridges over them made of quebracho
+logs, laid endways on and <a name="Page_113"></a>covered with earth, very dangerous to cross
+after wet weather or floods, especially at night, as they are generally
+full of holes where the earth has fallen in.</p>
+
+<p>At 10 a.m. each day we unsaddled for lunch, which was generally composed
+of &quot;charque&quot; or salted beef, biscuits, and coffee. The first night we
+slept at the last habitation which we saw, a small wayside inn. Arriving
+there late in the evening, we had the greatest difficulty in obtaining
+entrance on account of the chorus of barking, snapping dogs, and on
+account of the innkeeper's fear of drunken gauchos.</p>
+
+<p>Another early start on the second day saw us well on our journey by
+si&eacute;sta time, which we spent on the edge of a very fine forest. The
+afternoon was very hot, and we did not start off again until 4 o'clock.
+During the evening we swam across a small river which we found
+overflowing its banks on account of the local rains, and, as darkness
+fell, we found it almost impossible to see our way on account of the
+fireflies, which made such a glare in front of us that the slight track
+which we had been following was almost invisible. It was a very dark
+night, and once or twice we felt rain. We had to go very slowly, so that
+we should not miss the track. Thus we trotted on in Indian file, each of
+us now leading spare horses, in silence, except when one of us asked how
+many leagues it was to the estancia, only to jog on again for what
+seemed two or three hours, until almost midnight. With a cheerful yell
+we suddenly came on a barbed wire fence, and after hunting about for a
+time, a wire gate.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately tongues seemed to be mechanically loosened and the
+conversation flowed freely, discussing the ride, horses, coming
+stiffness, and all the things that one has to talk about after two and
+a-half days in the saddle. On reaching the estancia about 2 a.m., none
+of us needed much <a name="Page_114"></a>bed, and throwing our things down on the grass
+outside, we soon were dreaming of alligators, broken bridges, swimming
+rivers, etc.</p>
+
+<p>About 10 o'clock the next morning I awoke to find myself on a most neat
+little estancia high up on a hill, overlooking, across a slight valley,
+magnificent forests where one could see the glint of running water.</p>
+
+<p>The house was brick floored and had four very nice rooms, which had been
+colour-washed by my friends with excellent success. The ceilings at once
+attracted attention, being of a deep-coloured black wood, well oiled and
+seasoned. &quot;Timbo&quot; it is called, and is the best carving and furniture
+wood in the country.</p>
+
+<p>Out in the garden were oranges, lemons, citrons, pomegranates, limes,
+and all kinds of luxurious fruits and vegetables. In a small fenced
+paddock at the end of the garden, were sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, cotton,
+tobacco, and some magnificent maize.</p>
+
+<p>The men's huts were made of mud over a cane network, and the roofs were
+made of split palm trees, hollowed out and made in the form of a large
+<b>~~~~~~~</b> the palms being placed concavely and convexly alternately,
+making fine drainage for the heavy rains. The whole place was surrounded
+by a ring of fine chaco paraiso trees and &quot;ombu.&quot; The horse corrals were
+all <i>palo a pique</i>, that is, made of solid posts, stuck in close
+together side by side, and about two metres high, with no wire.</p>
+
+<p>The camp was more or less on the real banks of the Parana, sloping away
+to the river four leagues away, and forming one of the most fertile
+spots in the Republic. This low-lying land is the finest and cheapest
+grazing in the north, but it is unreliable because it is quite inundated
+in time of floods, when the cattle have to be withdrawn to higher camp.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_115"></a>During various excursions on the following days we saw tracks of
+&quot;tigers&quot; (leopard) and &quot;lions&quot; (puma); the kill of the latter, a small
+gazelle buck, &quot;guasuncho,&quot; we found neatly covered up with grass and
+leaves, and easily distinguishable from the tiger's kill, which is
+always left uncovered. A very fine tiger's skin was brought in one
+night, measuring 1.84 metres from the tip of the nose to the root of the
+tail, and 1.56 metres across. The man had suddenly come across it while
+on foot in the monte, and after wounding it with his Winchester had run
+it down with his dogs and killed it.</p>
+
+<p>One evening we caught sight of a tapi (tapir) coming down to drink, but
+were unable to shoot on account of the bad light. Each day we saw many
+wild pigs (&quot;chancho moro&quot;) and various kinds of wild cats, including the
+splendid &quot;gato once&quot; or ounce cat, whose skin is one of the finest, and
+only to be compared with the &quot;lobo&quot; or golden otter, which has a most
+magnificent fluffy pelt with a golden tint on the tips. The latter is
+unfortunately getting very rare now.</p>
+
+<p>The great wolf or &quot;aguaras&quot; is still common, and is a very stately
+beast, as he slopes along with his hind-quarters well under him, with
+pricked ears and shaggy black mane.</p>
+
+<p>The forests here are mostly in long strips and clumps, with excellent
+pasture land between them; and they contain, among other commoner chaco
+trees, lance wood, four crowns, and tala. Amongst the strange trees
+there is one enormous broad-leafed tree called &quot;guapoij,&quot; which has long
+creeping roots, which cling on to neighbouring trees and gradually pull
+them down and absorb all their goodness, killing them, and in some
+marvellous way apparently eating them up. One finds occasionally one of
+these trees embracing another bigger than itself, and gradually rooting
+it out of the ground.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_116"></a>On all low ground one generally finds &quot;Zeibos&quot;&mdash;a tree with very soft
+wood and very pretty branches of scarlet flowers.</p>
+
+<p>The wild apricot or &quot;ijguajay&quot; grows everywhere, and looks a very
+tempting fruit, fatal, however, to most Europeans, as it is a very
+powerful purge. The Indian children eat the fruit with joy, and it
+apparently has no bad effect on them.</p>
+
+<p>The forests are full of all kinds of animals, and, in addition to those
+already mentioned, there are red deer, black and brown monkeys, and
+bear, and the ring-tailed coons, which latter make noises like the
+grunting of pigs.</p>
+
+<p>Of ground game there are foxes, tattoo or mulita, armadillo, and
+ostriches.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the birds the most common are various kinds of hawks, including
+some very much like the great bustard, English brown buzzard, and osprey
+falcon, and two or three kinds of parrots and cockatoos, the green
+parrots being the curse to agriculturists, eating all the maize, as the
+locusts do in the South.</p>
+
+<p>There are many different kinds of &quot;carpinteros&quot; or woodpeckers, most of
+them having most wonderful plumage of brown, green, scarlet, blue, and
+yellow.</p>
+
+<p>A strange bird which is not often seen is the &quot;tucan,&quot; a small black
+bird, with a beak almost as big as his body, and of a splendid orange
+colour with a scarlet tip; he is a top-heavy looking little chap when
+seen seated on an orange tree, his favourite haunt.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst table birds there are grey pheasants, martinetta, and
+partridges. Of wild fowl, there are enormous varieties, including the
+&quot;pato real&quot; or great tree duck, whistling mallard, various kinds of teal
+and shovellers, widgeon, muscony and hooded duck, black-headed geese,
+grey geese, and swans. Amongst water-birds are the black, grey, <a name="Page_117"></a>and
+white &quot;garza&quot; or heron. The latter are especially valuable on account of
+the splendid feathers on the back of their necks. Of the smaller birds
+there is the gallinetta, a kind of landrail, the curse of hunters
+shooting wild duck, their wretched screech warning every bird in the
+district. The beautifully coloured and almost transparently winged
+golden moorhen covers every stretch of water inland, and the &quot;chaja&quot; or
+wild turkey, one of the most useless birds in the Chaco, and quite
+uneatable, sends forth his dismal cry &quot;chaja.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The kingfishers are, perhaps, the most noticeable of all the river
+birds, and are of all sizes, from the small European variety to one
+almost ten times their size. Gorgeously plumaged, they skim, like
+flashes of light, over the water, which is full of all kinds of fish
+including &quot;Dorado,&quot; a splendid fighting fish, excellent eating, which
+can be caught with rod or fly, and goes up to 10 kilos in weight;
+&quot;Suravi,&quot; a great mud fish, which is seen sometimes basking out of
+water, weighing up to 50 kilos, with enormous head, and good eating;
+&quot;Savala,&quot; the mud-eating cruiser, which one sees nearly always with its
+tail out of water, and which makes excellent revolver shooting;
+&quot;Palmieta,&quot; the curse of the Chaco streams and rivers, making bathing
+unadvisable on account of its hostile assaults on the extremities of all
+foreign bodies; and the &quot;rallo,&quot; or sun fish, a large flat fish with a
+long tail.</p>
+
+<p>Thus was spent a week of happy days of excursions and explorations,
+where sometimes we had to walk through great distances of undergrowth
+and the everywhere-abundant prickly cactus, cutting our way with large
+cavalry swords, always with our eyes skinned to catch sight of some
+strange bird, beast, or flower. Sometimes we waded for miles through
+swamps, which, in some places, abound with enormous water snakes up to 6
+metres long.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_118"></a>We put up all kinds of water-fowl, as we struggled on, splashing
+through rivers, clambering up and skeltering down slippery banks,
+reaching home tired and weary every night to recount all the day's
+doings, sitting out in the patio in the cool evening, eaten up by
+mosquitoes.</p>
+
+<p>So ended my holiday, with hurried packing, much toast-drinking, and a
+final little farewell dance to the accompaniment of guitar, gramophone,
+mouth-organ, and accordion. The journey south was of no great interest,
+half on horseback, half in &quot;galera,&quot; or public mail coach, with, as
+fellow passengers, a German traveller, a cur&eacute; (most jovial of beings,
+who had brought enough food with him to feed a whole regiment), a head
+of police and his men, and two coach boys.</p>
+
+<p>The coach, with five young horses tied in abreast, went bumping and
+jolting along hour after hour, until we came to a big river,
+unfortunately in flood. The horses were unhitched, tied together and
+swum across; a boat coming from some unseen corner, took passengers and
+luggage across, leaving the coach itself alone, with a long wire tied to
+the end of the pole. The horses were fastened to the end of this wire on
+the other side of the river, and then, with a whoop and a cheer, the
+coach tumbled head-over-heels into the raging flood, twisting and
+turning in all ways, first one side up and then the other, until at last
+it reached the near bank. And so we travelled on, back to civilisation;
+a tiring journey in dust and heat by rail, bringing us home to the same
+old flat, treeless, priceless plains of the Central Argentine, to dream
+for many days of birds, fishes, animals, flowers, trees, good friends,
+and the fine natives of the Northern Chaco.</p><a name="Page_119"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="WORK_IN_THE_WOODS"></a><h2>WORK IN THE WOODS.</h2>
+
+<p>The worker in the forests is of necessity an early riser, the nature of
+his task requiring that he should be up betimes. His preparations for
+breakfast are simple, and he is ready to start out after half an hour
+spent in imbibing a few mat&eacute;s full of yerba infusion. The cartmen tie in
+their bullocks, kept overnight in a corral, and drive off to bring in
+wood prepared by the axemen, the bullock-herd takes his charges to
+pasture and the men's employer mounts his horse to visit the camp of his
+axemen, or goes to the store to fetch meat and provisions. The axemen
+generally live in tents or temporary shelters, convenient to their work,
+and some distance from the contractor's rancho. They have to work hard,
+stripped to the waist in summer; they fell the trees, and either square
+the logs for baulks and sleepers, or cut the bark and outside layer of
+white wood off to make logs for export, working by moonlight when the
+heat of the day is excessive. Their food consists of biscuits, called
+Galleta, dried to the consistency of flint; these they soften in soup
+made from fresh meat or dried &quot;Charki.&quot; To this soup is added rice,
+maize, or &quot;Fido's,&quot; which is coarse macaroni.</p>
+
+<p>The favourite roast, called the &quot;Asado,&quot; is made from ribs of beef
+impaled on a stick and placed near the fire till sufficiently cooked.
+This delicacy, usually as hard as nails, is enjoyed by the men, who cut
+off portions, which they hold in their teeth, while, with a jack-knife,
+mouthfuls are sawn off close to the nose, at the risk of shortening that
+organ. Water is drunk, or coffee sweetened liberally with moist sugar.
+This coffee is made in the country, chiefly <a name="Page_122"></a>from beans or maize, with a
+large percentage of chicory to give it body.</p>
+
+<p>It is picturesque to see a long string of carts enter a deposit to the
+sound of pistol cracks from long whips, and to watch the cartmen unload
+the heavy logs.</p>
+
+<p>A cartman will load his cart with logs of a ton and upwards, each with
+the aid of his team of bullocks, placing the chains so that the animals,
+at the desired moment, by advancing a short distance, roll the log from
+the ground on to the cart. In the case of very heavy logs the cart is
+placed upside down on the log, which is then bound to it, and the
+bullocks pull the whole thing over. The distances which have to be
+covered by these carts are considerable, fifteen miles in the day is not
+unusual, changing bullocks once en route, but a great deal depends on
+the roads being dry, as in wet weather the wheels sink up to the hubs in
+the mud and the roads are soon dotted here and there with loads
+abandoned till better conditions enable them to be reloaded and
+delivered at a depository.</p>
+
+<p>These cartmen are hardy fellows and work wet to the skin, covered with
+mud up to their knees, or, again, hidden in the dust from the roads,
+which envelopes the moving carts in a choking cloud.</p>
+
+<p>It is little to be wondered at if the axemen and cartmen, when pay day
+arrives, go in for a spree, which for them usually takes the form of
+gambling, enlivened by dancing and drinking till daylight.</p>
+
+<p>The result of sojourning in the woods does not, as might be expected,
+have the effect of making these men unsociable, and they embrace every
+opportunity of attending a race meeting or dance. When the men are
+excited by drink quarrels are frequent, and the police search them for
+arms before admitting them to a Re-union.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_124"></a>Arms are carried ostensibly as a precaution against meeting with
+Indians and bad characters in the lonely recesses of the forest, and the
+men like to carry a knife and a good revolver, or, better still, a
+Winchester, to enable them to get a shot at any wild animal they may
+come across, the skins of these being much prized. They take a pleasure
+in presenting a visitor with a puma skin or other trophy of the chase.</p>
+
+<p>Among these people one looks for, and finds, the primitive idea of
+hospitality, an unaffected welcome and willingness to give of the best
+they have. Here are men independent by virtue of their labour, which
+gives them sufficient for their daily wants. They have no thought for
+the morrow or what will be their lot when too feeble to work.</p>
+
+<p>The axemen, who are natives of Italy and Austria, are very good workmen,
+but compare unfavourably with natives of the country, being extremely
+dirty in their persons, to such a degree that it is a disagreeable
+experience to have to interview them in an office, whereas the Argentine
+native puts on his best apparel when he goes to an estancia.</p>
+
+<p>The forest workers are nomads, and, as the woods get cut out, move on to
+fresh camping grounds, leaving the woods to revert to their former
+solitude, a haunt for the wild animals, who creep back once silence has
+returned.</p><a name="Page_125"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="CACHAPES_AND_OTHER_THINGS"></a><h2>CACHAP&Eacute;S, AND OTHER THINGS.</h2>
+
+<p>To a man coming from the Southern Camps to the forest belt of Santa F&eacute;,
+the cachap&eacute; must appeal as something peculiar to the district, and most
+essentially local. He has had a surfeit of carts with two wheels, each
+12 feet high, and dragged by anything from sixteen to twenty-eight
+horses; Russian carts, like Thames punts on four wheels, no longer amuse
+him, while American spring carts are much too European to warrant
+unslinging the Kodak. But the cachap&eacute;&mdash;here is something not to be
+lightly passed over. Lying idle it may not strike him at first sight as
+a cart, but rather as a remnant of some revolution, when, tired of
+waging light operatic war, the army disbanded, leaving their
+gun-carriages to serve more peaceful purposes.</p>
+
+<p>Two pairs of short, squat, enormously powerful wheels; between, and
+joining them, a roughly hewn pole and various chains in an apparently
+hopeless tangle. Yet see them in work&mdash;every niche doing its work, every
+chain taking ten per cent, more strain than it was ever intended to
+take, creaking, groaning, crashing into holes, crawling laboriously over
+snaps and trunks to fall again with its load of four tons with a
+jerking, swaying, and straining as though struggling to free itself from
+its load, and you recognise the <i>raison d'&ecirc;tre</i> of the queer little
+cart.</p>
+
+<p>The capach&eacute; is not without its humorous moments. Supposing the cartmen
+find a log too heavy to load in the ordinary way; they do not return and
+inform the boss that the log must be hoisted by mechanical means or
+propose high-priced cranes. Seeing that obviously they can't put the log
+on the cart, they accept the alternative and put the cart on the <a name="Page_128"></a>log,
+chain it on securely, then haul everything right side up again with the
+bullocks and proceed to the unloading station. Once there, it might be
+supposed that they would tumble the cart over again, but here the
+intelligent foreigner is misled. The correct proceeding now is for the
+cartmen to lie on their backs and push with their feet, after the manner
+of the gentlemen in music halls, who, reclining on sawed-off sofas,
+twiddle gold-spangled spheres with their toes; only our cartmen lie in
+water and mud and the gold-spangled sphere is changed for a three-ton
+log. The force the men can exert in this position is little short of
+marvellous. Out one crawls, reviews the situation, then back again
+under, a creak, a combined push, and over the wheels comes the log,
+throwing up the mud and water for 50 feet around. Then back they go
+again for another load six miles through the forest. Wet through, their
+clothes hanging in ribbons from shoulders and belt, one day's mud caking
+on another's, and with a long sword stuck through their belt in front,
+they present a figure comical enough were it not that one knew the other
+side of the picture.</p>
+
+<p>Reeking with inherited consumption, they live the one life which is
+certain to kill them before they are forty. Wet through and chilled,
+they are called upon again and again to suddenly exert enormous
+strength, since no man can desert his cart. He must &quot;get there.&quot; He must
+get out of his trouble. He eats largely when and how he can, and when he
+has saved any money the merry &quot;Taba&quot; bone charms it from him in a way
+too universal perhaps to call for any remark. Sometimes he finishes his
+carting days through too decided opinions as to the other man's
+integrity in playing &quot;Taba&quot;; sometimes on his canvas bed in a hut of mud
+and branches, his browny yellow face and sunken eyes asking no pity,
+betraying no emotion; in either case he is rarely over thirty-five and
+often leaves a wife and children.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_129"></a>I say &quot;wife and children,&quot; since it sounds the usual thing; but, as a
+matter of strict fact, the ceremony of getting married is deprecated
+among them, as it signifies &quot;Putting on side,&quot; and is only resorted to
+when they are in a village and there is a chance that the presents that
+are given will more than compensate the tremendous expense they have to
+go to. Speaking to a gentleman of this kidney, I was informed that when
+the cross-eyed blacksmith Strike got married, it cost him three dollars
+and a-half (say 5s.) in fire crackers alone, and my informant went on to
+say that the only case he knew of where marriage had been really
+successful was that of the fair-haired carpenter, who was married and
+asked all the bosses on the place, who each gave something, with which
+he was able to buy a sewing machine for the eldest girl, then aged six.</p>
+
+<p>But, mark you, lest you should judge them lightly, remember that their
+unwritten pact is just as binding to them as our formal marriage tie is
+to us, and that in their way they are probably better husbands and
+fathers than your Balham clerk. In their young days they may chop and
+change, which changes are generally marked by little iron crosses in the
+woods, but, once they have settled down, desertion is far rarer than in
+civilised countries. I have seen a native workman with his shoulder
+blade in his arm-pit, his face cut to ribbons, and with pieces of
+casting sticking to his back through the carrying away of a crane, cavil
+against the idea of being taken into the township where the doctor was,
+lest his old woman, unused to a town life, should find the surroundings
+uncongenial. This in a broken, muttered whisper, twelve hours after the
+accident had happened, during which time every new arrival had been
+called upon to witness the peculiar nature of his injuries.</p>
+
+<p>Much has been said about the terrible wickedness of the <a name="Page_130"></a>lower-class
+native, his gambling, his immorality, his almost fanatical desire to
+murder everyone he sees; and for complete and detailed lists of crimes
+and monstrosities appeal to any newcomer, who will be delighted to hold
+forth on the subject; but when one has lived with them and worked with
+them under varying conditions, and has suffered in some degree what they
+suffer, one hesitates to condemn them offhand.</p>
+
+<p>Blackguards they are&mdash;but manly, humorous blackguards. Immoral, one must
+confess them to be, according to our lights, but even in England &quot;Custom
+from time immemorial&quot; is held as law.</p>
+
+<p>The vast majority will steal raw hide gear as a cat steals fish, but
+will not touch your money, much as in a community of young men property
+is common to all with the same exception. They will lie if scared, or
+rather will substitute for the truth something they think you would like
+to hear, and they will do as little work as you will let them.</p>
+
+<p>But, have a bad case of sickness in the house and ask a man to go out at
+midnight with the carriage to get the doctor, or to go on horseback on
+his own horse twenty miles for medicine, and he goes as quietly and
+pleasantly as though he were going about the most commonplace work. He
+expects no tip, no extra wage, nor is he lauded as a hero. He may have
+come down, horse and all, in the dark, but is happy if he has not
+smashed the bottle of medicine, and he resumes his work on return, just
+as if he hadn't been up all night riding at a hard canter over broken
+ground full of holes and snags.</p>
+
+<p>No, he is by no means an ideal worker, neither is he half so bad as he's
+painted, and I'd rather meet him in the next world than lots of men who
+boss him in this.</p><a name="Page_131"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="MY_FRIEND_THE_AXEMAN"></a><h2>MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.</h2><a name="Page_133"></a>
+
+
+
+<p>Eighty square leagues of dense forest. One is inclined to feel a trifle
+small and overcome when this fraction of Mother Earth is put into one's
+hands (metaphorically), with orders to know all about it and to be able
+to answer all questions as to what is going on in it.</p>
+
+<p>The work is like most other occupations: not quite so romantic as it
+sounds at first, but as interesting as one cares to make it.</p>
+
+<p>One's main employment can best be illustrated by a leaf out of a mental
+diary.</p>
+
+<p>Fulano de Tal, axeman, wants credit for provisions at the almacen or
+general store&mdash;Has he sufficient wood cut to warrant it? It is the
+Mayor-domo's business to find out.</p>
+
+<p>With this end in view, he rides along &quot;The Mangy&quot; watercourse till he
+comes to the lowland of &quot;The Blind Cow.&quot; The barking of half a dozen
+mongrel curs leads him into the edge of the forest, and he comes upon
+the residence of Fulano de Tal. The man has perhaps recently moved to
+this spot, and has not had time or energy to build himself a &quot;rancho,&quot;
+and therefore the homestead consists of about four yards of canvas
+stretched across the branch of a tree like the roof of a tent.</p>
+
+<p>Beneath this is a &quot;New Home&quot; sewing machine, a Brummagem bedstead, and a
+small trunk, made burglar-proof by innumerable bands and fastenings of
+bright tin, or even gilt wall-paper. Scattered around are the little
+Fulanos, in costumes varying from nothing to very little.</p>
+
+<p>Their mother ceases her cooking operations, wipes her hands on the
+nearest child's head, and invites the visitor to dismount.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_134"></a>He answers that he is looking for her husband, and she directs him with
+a sweep of the hand which covers a quadrant of the compass and includes
+several square leagues of thick forest. Taking a likely track, however,
+he soon hears the ring of axe-strokes, and finds his man patiently
+chipping away at a felled tree, which is rapidly taking the form of a
+baulk, with the sides as smooth as if sawn.</p>
+
+<p>His horse is tied up near, and he takes the Mayor-domo through his
+&quot;corte,&quot; showing him the wood prepared for the carters. Give him a
+chance and he will count every log twice (most likely he has already
+plastered mud over the marks which show the rotten patch in the wood,
+and is wondering whether he has cleared the black sufficiently off a
+piece of &quot;campana&quot; to persuade a reasonable man that it is really fresh
+wood).</p>
+
+<p>It is part of the inspector's stock in trade to know these and a myriad
+other tricks, too numerous to take separately.</p>
+
+<p>The typical axeman in the Santa F&eacute; Chaco is more genuinely &quot;childlike&quot;
+than, and quite as &quot;bland&quot; as, the famous Celestial. He never quite
+grows up; he will spend his last dollar on a mouth-organ when he is
+forty, and give a wild war-whoop of delight as a stack of newly piled
+sleepers falls crashing to the ground.</p>
+
+<p>He loves sweets and the bright clothes which he wears with childish
+dignity on feast-days and holidays.</p>
+
+<p>His <i>amour propre</i> is tremendous, and influences his code of honour to a
+great extent. The first ten commandments he will break most cheerfully,
+but the eleventh&mdash;&quot;Thou shalt not be found out&quot;&mdash;he respects to the best
+of his power.</p>
+
+<p>Stealing, for instance, he regards as a pastime, but call him a thief
+and you must be prepared for trouble. A perfect instance of this can be
+quoted in the case of an estanciero who found a peon wearing one of his
+shirts.</p>
+
+<a name="Square_Quebracho_Logs_worked_by_the_Axeman_showing_Resin_oozing_therefrom"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image16.png" width="457" height="410" alt="Square Quebracho Logs worked by the Axeman, showing
+Resin oozing therefrom." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Square Quebracho Logs worked by the Axeman, showing
+Resin oozing therefrom.</h4>
+
+<a name="Page_135"></a>
+<p>&quot;You are wearing my shirt,&quot; said the master. &quot;No, Se&ntilde;or; I bought it in
+the store.&quot; &quot;But you stole it from me,&quot; insisted the estanciero,
+pointing to the tab at the front, where his name was written in marking
+ink; &quot;there is my name on it.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The man, being quite illiterate, had not reckoned on such damning
+evidence, but he recovered himself and replied with dignity: &quot;Very well,
+Se&ntilde;or; if it is yours, take it; <i>but don't call me a thief</i>.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Honesty is with them, admittedly, a matter of degree. A man will always
+say if questioned about some small deficiency, &quot;Do you think I would
+swindle you for a matter of two dollars?&quot; or &quot;Do you think I would risk
+my credit with the Company for the sake of <i>one</i> calf?&quot; To be honest in
+a case where a larger profit is involved is a height of integrity to
+which he does not even pretend. &quot;I am going to be frank with you&quot;&mdash;that
+is an expression which puts the wise man on his guard, for it is
+generally followed by a cascade of lies.</p>
+
+<p>Business must be done on a completely different basis to that which
+obtains in England. To return to our friend Fulano, for instance: he
+wishes perhaps to ask for an increase of fifty cents per ton on his
+wood, and introduces the subject by a short conversation about the
+points of his horse, passing on to the bad state of the bullocks and
+enlarging on the chance of a rainy winter. You have just decided that he
+has nothing more to say and are preparing to leave him, when he makes
+his request with as much circumlocution as possible. To have come
+straight to the point would have been contrary to all his ideas of
+correct procedure.</p>
+
+<p>I have heard two natives make one another's acquaintance with a bout of
+verbal sparring which an Englishman would obviate by a single sentence,
+such as &quot;Good <a name="Page_138"></a>morning; Mr. Brown, I believe?&quot; &quot;Yes,&quot; the other would
+answer, and the business would be entered upon immediately.</p>
+
+<p>The Spanish blood, however, calls for some such dialogue as the
+following, which is taken from real life.</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;Good day.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Good day.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;How are you, Se&ntilde;or?&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Very well, thank you, Se&ntilde;or; how are you?&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;Very well, thank you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;I am glad.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;Equally.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Don't mention it.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;I am speaking to Mr. Juan Sosa?&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;At your service.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;At yours.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Equally.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;It gives me great pleasure to know you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Equally.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>They are flowery always, whether in greeting, praise, commendation, or
+in denunciation.</p>
+
+<p>In illustration of the last point, I once heard a cartman give vent to a
+quite Olympic challenge.</p>
+
+<p>His cart had stuck in a deep rut up to the axles, and he commenced
+operations by addressing his bullocks with tender words and soft names
+swiftly followed by lurid curses. This proving useless, he invoked
+higher powers, and called on his pet saints by name&mdash;&quot;Help me, San
+Pedro, San Geronimo, Santa Lucia, San Juan.&quot; Still no result:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>Then his patience failed entirely&mdash;&quot;If you won't help me, San Pedro,&quot; he
+shouted, &quot;come down and I'll fight you;&quot; &quot;Come down, San Juan, and I'll
+take you both on together.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_139"></a>Still no reply.</p>
+
+<p>Taking his hat off he placed it on the ground, made the motion of
+clawing his guardians from the skies and placing them in his hat.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Stay there, San Geronimo; Stay there, San Juan; Stay there, San Marco.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>When his hat was full enough for his satisfaction he leapt into the air,
+came down on it with both feet, and continued to dance on it for about
+three minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, for a real or imagined slight, the streak of black blood will show
+up and convert a friend into a relentless enemy.</p>
+
+<p>It is not surprising when one considers the lack of civilising
+influences which ought to be exerted from the top downwards, but which
+have no root in the highest power they know, which is the arm of the
+law. It might be interesting to note a few proofs of the corruption
+which exists among those who wield the local weapons of justice&mdash;among
+the commissaries, police, and justices of the peace.</p>
+
+<p>The Chief of Police of&mdash;&mdash;, for instance, a town of only about 7,000
+inhabitants, refused &pound;2,000 a year for the local gambling rights.</p>
+
+<p>Again, a gardener, whom I knew, was put in jail for being drunk and
+disorderly. On going to the place some time later I found the man still
+imprisoned. &quot;Why,&quot; I asked, &quot;for such a small offence&quot;? &quot;We found,&quot; was
+the answer, &quot;that when sober he was such a good workman that we could
+not spare him from the job of cleaning the stables.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, a friend of mine was dissatisfied with the policeman
+he had, and sent the sergeant into the township to exchange him for
+another. The man returned with a particularly villainous-looking
+specimen, and when <a name="Page_140"></a>asked where he had got him, explained that the Chief
+of Police had told him to look among the prisoners for a suitable man,
+give him a uniform and take him.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I thought this was the best of them; but they all wanted to come,&quot; he
+concluded ingenuously.</p>
+
+<p>Another commissary in the north of this country flattered himself on his
+revolver-shooting, and used to perform the feat of shooting the hat off
+a man's head without hurting him. He was in the local bar one day when a
+peon entered with a brand new white hat; it was an opportunity not to be
+missed. Crack&mdash;and the man fell with a bullet through his temple instead
+of his hat.</p>
+
+<p>Did the Comis&aacute;rio stand stricken with remorse, or burst into
+self-reproach? No. He moved the body with the toe of his boot and
+remarked: &quot;Carramba, I am getting a very poor shot nowadays.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>A story which was told me in the province of Rio Negro, and which was
+well vouched for, contained serio-comic elements of which I believe the
+perpetrator, whom I knew personally, quite capable.</p>
+
+<p>An old man who owned a considerable quantity of land, died intestate. A
+man who lived with him, Garcia by name, had no idea of letting the
+property go to distant unknown relations, and concocted the following
+plot (obviously with the connivance of the neighbouring Justice of the
+Peace, who was a friend of his).</p>
+
+<p>The law allows that a sane man &quot;in articulo mortis,&quot; and past the power
+of speech, may make statements by signs: so when the Justice was
+summoned to the house, Garcia told him that the man was not yet dead,
+and wished to make his will.</p>
+
+<p>Garcia seated himself at the foot of the bed, while the Justice at the
+side addressed questions to the deceased on the following lines:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<a name="Page_141"></a>Do you wish me to record your last will and testament?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The corpse nodded.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you wish your property to pass into your cousins' hands?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The head moved from side to side.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you intend to make Garcia your sole legatee?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The deceased nodded several times.</p>
+
+<p>Two witnesses were brought, and the business was settled with
+commendable promptitude.</p>
+
+<p>I think it was Garcia himself who explained, some time afterwards, that
+as the dead man wore a full beard and whiskers, it was easy enough to
+hide the strings passing from his ears and chin to the foot of the bed
+under the coverings.</p>
+
+<p>In this connection I have since heard that one of the legal ceremonies
+in a coroner's inquest in Central America is to solemnly ask the
+deceased who killed him.</p>
+
+<p>To return to the point, however; if such things exist among those in the
+highest positions of trust it is not surprising to find wholesale
+chicanery among the lower orders; that they realise their shortcomings
+is evidenced by the fact that if they wish to impress you with the truth
+of a statement, they add &quot;palabra de Ingles,&quot; i.e., &quot;on the word of an
+Englishman.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Their Indian descent is answerable for a great deal, the white and black
+blood being so mixed that it is almost impossible to note the dividing
+line. Their dusky ancestors were blessed with an extremely limited
+intelligence, only being able to count up to four. The following
+incidents were related to me by an old estanciero. He once saw a
+trainload of Indian prisoners who had had oranges given them throwing
+the skins against the windows and showing great surprise when they fell
+inside.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_142"></a>In another instance a woman came with her daughter to place her in
+domestic service at the estancia, and as the mother did all the talking,
+the estanciero's wife asked if the daughter could speak Spanish.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Oh, yes,&quot; answered the mother, &quot;but she is barefoot, and would not
+presume to talk Spanish unless she had shoes on.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>This same girl at first insisted on turning up the carpet whenever she
+entered a room and walking along the boards at the side.</p>
+
+<p>I fear that I have given a black character to the people I work among,
+but there are lights as well as shades, and I have had many a weary
+hour's ride wiled away by the philosophy and anecdotes of some peon or
+small contractor, without mentioning the enjoyment of that hospitality
+which is a characteristic of the nation.</p>
+
+<p>Beside a camp fire, under the stars, while the mat&eacute; pot passes from hand
+to hand, or when huddled under a horse cloth with the rain dousing the
+last embers, I have found the Correntino, or Santa Fecino, a cheery and
+uncomplaining companion, who compares well with the recently arrived
+Englishman, who, under the same circumstances, is generally sleepy or
+bad tempered.</p>
+
+<p>Treat him well and he will treat you well, but if it is necessary to
+chasten him for his soul's good, keep your hand a little nearer to your
+revolver than his is to his knife.</p>
+
+
+
+<a name="Page_143"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="DUST_AND_OTHER_STORMS"></a><h2>DUST AND OTHER STORMS.</h2>
+<br />
+
+<p>Life in South America has many and varied experiences, though not so
+uncomfortably exciting perhaps to-day as they were, when more than three
+years seldom passed without a revolution of some kind, either national
+or provincial. The year 1893 was marked by two revolutions in Rosario,
+the first provincial and the second national, with perhaps little more
+than two months between them. It sounds terribly alarming to hear that a
+revolution has broken out, and pictures of the French Revolution
+immediately rise before one, but, fortunately, those of South American
+cities are not of that calibre; reports and rumours fly about of the
+terrible things that are going to be done, but these generally end in
+rumour, and after a few persons, those who have nothing to do with the
+movement, have been killed, probably by soldiers letting off their
+rifles up some street just on the chance of hitting something (often
+that at which they are <i>not</i> aiming), the revolution fizzles out very
+quickly.</p>
+
+<p>In the second revolution of 1893 great excitement was caused in Rosario
+by a revolutionary gunboat being pursued by a Government boat and a
+naval battle (!) being fought on the river outside Rosario. These two
+boats blazed away at each other till the revolutionary gunboat was
+reduced to a wreck; the Government boat then threatened to turn its guns
+on Rosario unless the revolutionists capitulated. The town was given
+twenty-four hours to decide, and, after various disasters, including a
+terrible battle, had been threatened, as usual the revolution came to a
+sudden end, on this particular occasion owing to the revolutionist
+leader,<a name="Page_146"></a> D. Alem, committing suicide. That same year, 1893,
+distinguished itself by drawing to a close with three of the most
+terrible dust storms ever seen in a country that, after any lengthened
+period of dry weather, suffers from dust storms of a greater or lesser
+degree. The first of these occurred early in December, after many months
+of drought, on a brilliantly sunny afternoon. Standing at the front door
+of a house at Fisherton, a suburb about six miles from Rosario, we
+noticed right down in the S.W., on the horizon, great banks of
+grey-looking clouds, which, to our surprise, seemed to be rolling
+rapidly up the sky towards us. They had a most alarming appearance, for
+these masses of grey cloud approaching so rapidly seemed to portend a
+storm of terrible force. In less than twenty minutes from the time we
+first saw the clouds the afternoon had changed from brilliant sunshine
+to pitchy darkness. So rapidly had the darkness come on us that no one
+was prepared, and no matches or lights were forthcoming; so there we
+stood in a room in absolute darkness, no glimmer of light even revealing
+where the windows were situated in the room. Though all doors and
+windows were closely shut, we could feel the dust entering in clouds
+through the cracks, making it quite unpleasant breathing. When the storm
+caught us we had to stand and wait, I must own with some fear as to how
+it was going to end. Up to this time the storm had come up and fallen on
+us in total silence: now, after about ten minutes of pitch darkness, we
+could hear in the far distance the wind coming. It came up with cyclonic
+force, and then everything in the way of tins and buckets began to be
+blown in every direction, and the horses to gallop about neighing,
+evidently very much frightened. The wind was the forerunner of the rain,
+which gradually began to clear the air, though, of course, for some time
+it rained mud, much to the detriment of the houses, and to anyone
+<a name="Page_147"></a>unfortunate enough to be caught out of doors in the storm; indeed, one
+of our friends, who insisted on starting for the station just as the
+storm descended on us, was found crouching under his umbrella by one of
+the posts of the railway fence, with a face as black as a sweep's, and,
+by then, deeply repentant that he had started for the station against
+advice. Indeed, many caught out in camp by the storm lost their lives
+through falling into wells, and, in some cases, the river. But,
+fortunately, nowadays&mdash;principally, I fancy, owing to the larger area of
+country under cultivation&mdash;these dust storms do not recur.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="LOCUSTS"></a><h2>LOCUSTS.</h2>
+
+<p>During the past century considerable study has been centred upon the
+life and habits of the locust, mainly from the desire to seek its
+subjugation and destruction, and, whilst much general biological
+information has been written upon the subject, there are things which we
+do not yet know about this insect or its habits. We do not know what
+precise influences cause their migration, nor do we know what is the
+exact length of life of the locust or its breeding power, or the precise
+locality in any country which may be defined as its permanent abode.
+Locusts are classified under the order of orthopterous insects of the
+family Acrydiidae, and are very closely related to grasshoppers.</p>
+
+<p>There are a large number of species, the differentiating features being
+more or less the form and sculpture of protorax, the size of the head,
+the length and size of the prosternal spine, the comparative length and
+size of the hind thighs and shanks, the amount and arrangement of the
+tegmina mottlings, the comparative length of wings, and the general
+build of the entire insect, which may be robust or fairly slender.</p>
+
+<p>A general description of the distinctive physical features of migratory
+locusts might be given as a strong, wild-looking head, a strong collar
+inside which the neck moves, powerful and peculiarly-formed legs
+attached to a short, strong, square trunk or thorax, four wings, two
+antennae or feelers, six legs, and a long segmentary abdomen. The ground
+colour of the locust is generally brownish, straw, or red, but its
+colour varies somewhat according to the <a name="Page_150"></a>particular season of the year
+or some other peculiar circumstance, but nothing certain is known as to
+what influences the shade of colour. Mere ground colour is immaterial
+and does not signify a new species.</p>
+
+<p>Besides having a pair of compound eyes which form so noticeable a
+feature in its head, there are three other simple little eyes, placed
+like shining dots at three angles of a triangle below the two feelers.</p>
+
+<p>The mouth, which is a fearful apparatus, consists of nine distinct and
+well-marked organs; an interior or upper lip, consisting of a plate
+deeply cleft and capable of opening enormously; two true jaws or
+powerful mandibles; and two pairs of jointed organs called (maxillary)
+palpi, and two lower jaws. The mandibles and jaws move laterally from
+right to left.</p>
+
+<p>The thorax or trunk consists really of three rings. To the first is
+attached the two front legs; to the second, the two middle legs and the
+first pair of wings, and to the third, the two hind legs and the second
+pair of posterior wings. Along the posterior margin is a well marked
+serrated (spinous) arrangement by means of which the locust adheres and
+grips forcibly. The trunk appears to be full of a fatty sort of
+substance.</p>
+
+<p>The abdomen consists of a number of horny segments which are joined
+together by an elastic membrane, a construction which enables the insect
+to extend its body several centimetres beyond its normal extent. It can
+also be increased in thickness.</p>
+
+<p>The front and middle feet of this insect are short and weak, but the
+length, strength, and formation of the hind legs enable it to take
+extraordinary leaps. A full-grown locust can jump seven or eight feet in
+height, whilst it is said to be able to leap more than 200 times the
+length of its body.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_151"></a>The female is normally larger by &frac14; or &frac12; inch in length than the
+male, and has a rather thicker body.</p>
+
+<p>The average length of the migratory locust is from 2&frac12; to 3 inches and
+about &#8540; inch in thickness in the abdomen. Locusts generally lay their
+eggs in the spring, and the manner in which the females, having selected
+a favourable site, make an excavation in the earth for depositing their
+eggs is intensely interesting and wonderful.</p>
+
+<p>At the very extremity of the abdomen the female has two pairs of horny
+valves or hooks, each pair placed back to back with their points
+directed outwards, and arranged so that all four hooks can be brought
+with their points close together. By this means a sharp pointed lever is
+formed which can be turned around, evolved, and forked. With this
+apparatus she drills a small hole and by means of a series of muscular
+efforts and the continuing opening and closing of the valves provided
+with the formation of the abdomen, she actually bores to a depth of 6 to
+7 centimetres, or about 3 inches. Here she deposits her eggs&mdash;normally
+about eighty&mdash;regularly arranged in a long cylindrical mass and
+envelopes them in a spumous or sort of glutinous secretion, so that the
+whole are quite tapped up and level with the surface of the ground. This
+substance when dried is more or less impassable and affords protection
+to the eggs from the elements and secures an easy outlet to the surface
+for the young locust when hatched. The eggs resemble in shape grains of
+small rice and are about &frac14; inch long.</p>
+
+<p>The eggs hatch in from twenty-five to sixty days, usually about forty
+days, but the period may vary a little according to temperature,
+humidity, etc. The young locusts are known as &quot;hoppers,&quot; in which stage
+they pass some forty-five or fifty days before arriving at the fully
+developed stage known as &quot;fliers.&quot; To reach the &quot;flying&quot; or &quot;migratory&quot;
+stage <a name="Page_152"></a>they pass through six different states, changing the colour of
+their skin several times, gradually approaching to full growth, and
+finally growing wings.</p>
+
+<p>They have no quiescent stage, and whilst they are naturally yet
+incapable of flight, their locomotive powers are very considerable, and
+they are very destructive, for their voracity is great. Comparatively
+speaking, the flying locusts do less damage to the growing crops than
+the hoppers, who devour everything clean before them.</p>
+
+<p>It is interesting to state that the &quot;hoppers&quot; in the first stage are in
+length about 7 to 9 mm., or not quite one-third of an inch, and that the
+feelers have thirteen divisions, extending to twenty-seven divisions at
+full growth.</p>
+
+<p>During the cold weather they usually gather together in thousands,
+clinging closely to all kinds of vegetation and to each other. In this
+season the general rule seems to be that comparatively little food is
+taken of any kind. For the purpose of watching the development of their
+eggs, several hundred locusts have been opened during the winter months
+by entomologists, and invariably their cases have been found empty.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the most feasible suggestion as to the cause of their migratory
+impulse is that locusts naturally breed in dry sandy districts in which
+food is scarce, and are thus impelled to wander in order to procure the
+necessaries of life.</p>
+
+<p>The rate of travel varies according to circumstances. With an
+unfavourable wind, or little wind, they seldom travel more than five
+miles an hour. At other times, when the wind is favourable, they will
+cover fifteen to twenty miles per hour. When on the wing it is certain
+that a distance of 1,000 miles may, in particular cases, be taken as a
+moderate estimate of flight, and whilst, probably, it is often much
+less, it is sometimes much more. Their height <a name="Page_153"></a>of flight has been
+variously estimated at from forty to two hundred feet. &quot;A dropping from
+the clouds&quot; is a common expression used by observers when describing the
+apparition of a swarm.</p>
+
+<p>It will not be denied that the presence of locusts in force constitutes
+a terrible plague. They make their appearance in swarms and eat up
+everything. It is wellnigh impossible to estimate the number in a cloud
+of locusts, but some idea may be formed from the fact that when they are
+driven, as sometimes is the case in a storm, into the sea and drowned,
+so many are washed ashore, that it is said by one observer that their
+dead bodies formed a bank of nearly 40 miles long and 300 yards wide,
+and many feet in depth, and the stench from the corruption of their
+bodies proceeded 150 miles inland.</p>
+
+<p>When a swarm of locusts temporarily settles in a district, all
+vegetation rapidly disappears, and then hunger urges them on another
+stage. Such is their voracity that cannibalism amongst them has been
+asserted as an outcome of the failure of other kinds of food.</p>
+
+<p>Locusts have their natural enemies. Many birds greedily devour them, in
+fact a migratory swarm is usually followed by myriads of birds,
+especially sea gulls; they are often found 150 to 200 miles inland.
+Often a flock of gulls will clean up a &quot;manga&quot; of locusts; they devour
+them by thousands, and will then go to a neighbouring laguna, take a
+little water, and throw up all they have eaten, and at a given signal go
+off again to fill up with more locusts, only to repeat the operation
+time after time. Predatory insects of other orders also attack them,
+especially when in the unwinged state. They have still more deadly foes
+in parasites, some of which attack the fully developed locust, but the
+greater number adopt the more insidious method of attacking the eggs.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_154"></a>Many inventions have been brought out with the object of exterminating
+the locusts, some of which, at least, have doubtless been partly
+successful, but determined and combined effort by the nation and land
+proprietors is imperative if the remedial and preventive measures
+proposed are to reap the success hoped for.</p>
+
+<p>The Agricultural Defence Department reports having spent $10,561,540 mn.
+from 1st January, 1909, to 31st May, 1910, in fighting the locusts. The
+total area invaded was 135,000,000 hectares (about 337,500,000 acres).</p>
+
+<p>From 1892 to date, and with what is required for the present year,
+$54,000,000 have been spent in combating locusts and like plagues to
+agriculture.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center><a name="Page_155"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="CONSCRIPT_LIFE_IN_THE_ARGENTINE_REPUBLIC"></a><h2>CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.</h2><a name="Page_157"></a>
+
+
+<p>The life of a conscript is more agreeable than most people in the
+Argentine Republic imagine it to be, although it has its disadvantages
+as well as its advantages.</p>
+
+<p>Every year all over the Republic a drawing takes place, calling to arms,
+for a year in the Army or two in the Navy, Argentines who have attained
+the age of twenty-one. At an average 12,000 to 15,000 are called out
+every year and distributed in the different regiments, according to
+height; from 1.75 metres upwards to Cavalry, middle height to Infantry,
+and short men to Artillery.</p>
+
+<p>For eight months the troops are drilled daily, and at the end of this
+period a big manoeuvre is held in which every regiment has to take part.
+This manoeuvre is divided into two parts: in the month of September all
+troops pertaining to the I., II., and IV. Regions are mobilised, and in
+November those of the III. and V.</p>
+
+<p>The daily routine is as follows: At 4 a.m. at the call of a bugle all
+troops have to rise, and the roll is called over; at 4.30 a.m. coffee is
+served; at 5.0 every morning orders are given to saddle-up horses and
+arm, and they have to be ready to leave the barracks at 5.30 for morning
+drill on horseback or to go to the shooting range, according to the
+time-table; the drilling continues till 10 o'clock, at which hour the
+troops are due back at the barracks, having to go through a course of
+drilling on foot up till 11 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>At 11 o'clock the troops have to turn out and clean and brush down their
+horses until 11.30, at which hour lunch is <a name="Page_158"></a>served out; after which they
+are allowed to do as they like (except leave the barracks) till 1.30
+p.m.; from 1.30 to 3 p.m. the troops are drilled on foot, and at 3 p.m.
+&quot;Mat&eacute;-cocido&quot; is served out; at 3.30 they have to attend class until
+4.30 p.m., either on &quot;Campaign Service,&quot; &quot;Military Duties or Laws,&quot; or
+on the &quot;Carabine or Sword&quot;; every other day class is given on the
+different parts of a horse, and on how to look after and clean same.
+From 4.30 to 5.30 p.m. there is revision and cleaning of arms. At 5.30
+dinner is served out, after which those who have leave are allowed out
+until 10 p.m., or in some cases until 4 a.m. next morning.</p>
+
+<p>Those drawn for the Navy have to go through a preliminary course of
+training on shore before being sent on board the training ship
+&quot;Sarmiento,&quot; which every two years leaves Buenos Aires for a trip round
+the world, occupying, on an average, eighteen months.</p>
+
+<p>There are certain allowances made for students, who at the age of
+nineteen are allowed to enlist in the 8th Cavalry, where they have to
+serve for three months. At the end of this period they are put through a
+very severe examination, and should they pass, are promoted to the grade
+of Sub-Lieutenant of the Reserve, having to serve for a month every year
+in a regiment allotted to them.</p>
+
+<p>The advantages of conscription are many. It brings half-breeds from all
+parts of the Republic in touch with civilization, it teaches them
+obedience, respect for their superiors, and, above all, how to shoot.
+After their year's service they leave the barracks knowing a good deal
+more about things in general than when they entered them.</p>
+
+<p>There is also the better class of lads to be considered. Conscription
+teaches them a few things also, viz., to knuckle down (which is a great
+failing of the Anglo-Argentines), and be made to do things which they
+have not <a name="Page_159"></a>been accustomed to, clean out stable, etc., and look after
+their equipment properly, as anything they may happen to lose is
+deducted from their wages, which are very small, $5 per month.</p>
+
+<p>The food in the Army is good and plentiful: there is coffee in the
+morning on rising, a mid-day meal and dinner, which are usually similar,
+consisting of soup and &quot;puchero&quot; (a national dish made of beef and
+vegetables boiled), and an occasional dish of &quot;pulenta&quot; (boiled maize).</p>
+
+<p>The general treatment in the barracks is good. There are cases of
+miscarriage of justice and ill-treatment, but these are rare. A
+conscript may have to suffer punishment although in the right, and is
+not allowed to protest his innocence against an officer until after he
+has completed his punishment.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center><a name="Page_161"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="ACROSS_THE_BOLIVIAN_ANDES_IN_1901"></a><h2>ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901.</h2>
+
+<p>Recollections of a journey from the Peruvian port of Mollendo to the
+Bolivian interior, which the writer made in the year stated, are here
+transcribed. No rhetorical merit is claimed, facts only are related, and
+the compiler of the manuscript only hopes that his efforts may, in part
+at least, justify a cursory perusal, without exhausting the patience of
+the readers, or overtaxing their indulgence. These notes are transcribed
+nearly ten years after the trip was made, and any readers who may have
+visited Bolivia at a more recent date are requested to make allowance
+for such modifications or change of conditions of which they can be the
+only judges.</p>
+
+<p>I have crossed the Andes Chain in other places farther south, in Chile;
+but on this occasion I will confine my observations to the trip as
+headed.</p>
+
+<p>Mollendo is one of the worst ports on the Pacific coast, but is of some
+importance on account of the fact that the railway through Peru to Lake
+Titicaca starts here. All vessels have to lie at least half a mile from
+the land on account of the constant heavy swell, and the landing is
+always attended by a certain amount of danger, so much so that not
+infrequently passengers have to be &quot;slung&quot; on to the landing stage in
+baskets made for the purpose. Like most of the South American coast from
+Valparaiso northwards there is little or no vegetation, and the scenery
+is not of the kind generally associated with tropical climes, of which
+one reads so much. Sand dunes and waste meet the eye on all sides, and
+the traveller for the interior is generally glad when the railway
+journey commences.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_164"></a>Of the country through which the railway takes one there is not much to
+be said, but the attention of the traveller is at once called to the
+marvellous ingenuity of the famous engineer Meiggs, who built the
+railway. Gradually rising as the coast recedes, the train reaches
+Arequipa, at an elevation of 7,500 feet, and distant from Mollendo about
+200 miles. Arequipa has about 45,000 inhabitants, and, while rather
+prettily situated in a small valley surrounded by high volcanoes, it
+does not have anything of particular interest to attract one. Moreover,
+it suffers frequently from earthquakes, which does not surprise one when
+you look at the giant volcano &quot;El Misti,&quot; towering up to 18,000 feet, at
+no great distance off. The houses are all built with &quot;vaulted&quot;
+foundations, the better to resist the &quot;earth-tremblings,&quot; but on this
+occasion I did not experience any shocks.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Arequipa behind, the ascent continues until the highest point is
+reached at Crucero Alto, where a notice board indicates that we are now
+14,666 feet above sea level. It is before reaching this altitude that
+the wonderful enterprise of the engineer shows up. The line goes on
+winding and climbing, twisting back again but always ascending, for
+hours, until a point is reached where passengers, looking down from the
+carriage windows, may see right below them, only a few feet down, the
+actual railway track over which they have passed an hour before. At one
+place there are actually <i>three tracks visible,</i> one right below the
+other, just like steps and stairs, and I believe there is nothing quite
+like it in Argentina. Leaving Crucero Alto the descent is very gradual
+until Puno is reached, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, but still at an
+altitude of 12,000 feet or more. I did not actually see the town, which
+is a short distance from the station, but went straight on board the
+&quot;Coya,&quot; the steamer <a name="Page_165"></a>which was to ferry us across to Chililaya or Puerto
+Perez, on the Bolivian side of the immense lake.<a name="FNanchor_F_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_F_6"><sup>[F]</sup></a> The distance in this
+direction is about 110 miles, and the passage was made in ten hours,
+during the night, so that I had not on this occasion an opportunity of
+seeing the surrounding scenery.</p>
+
+<p>On another occasion I saw too much of it, as the steamer missed the
+canalized strip which extends several miles out from Puno, and we
+remained hard aground for thirty hours. We had over a hundred Japanese
+passengers&mdash;immigrants going to the rubber country&mdash;and all armed with
+huge revolvers; but as the food lasted out until we were relieved by
+another small steamer belonging to the railway company they were kept in
+good humour, and they gave no trouble at all. Before floating again
+about 100 tons of cargo had to be transhipped to the other steamer, and
+when we again got into the deep channel it was again transferred to the
+s.s. &quot;Coya.&quot; This latter boat was about 150 feet long; it was quite a
+comfortable boat, and the food and bedding were decent, when you
+consider the part of the world you were in. The bill of fare and wine
+list contained many quaint delicacies, and I shall never forget how the
+printer of same spelt the word indicating Scotch wine (commonly known as
+whisky). He was quite phonetic from the Spanish point of view, and the
+word read &quot;G&uuml;iscki,&quot; but it tasted all right.</p>
+
+<p>Landing at the Bolivian side of Puerto Perez, the immense plateau which
+covers all the centre of Bolivia stretches out on all sides landwards,
+until it meets the inner and higher range of the Cordilleras.</p>
+
+<p>La Paz, the then capital of Bolivia, on account of the fact that the
+President, General Pando, lived there, was our <a name="Page_166"></a>next objective point,
+and we found the old &quot;Diligence Coach,&quot; drawn by eight horses, awaiting
+to convey us the forty-two miles across the plain. This part of the
+journey is most uninteresting, and the road was only fair. All along it
+is the same level, stony ground, entirely devoid of trees, and covered
+completely with large, round stones. These latter the Indians have to
+gather in heaps, and thus make some open patches for growing their
+potatoes and grain, which, with their &quot;Chalona,&quot; or sheep dried in the
+sun, are their principal foodstuffs throughout the year. Besides, the
+surplus produce is conveyed to the larger towns on llamas, and there
+realised to the best advantage. It is a very interesting sight every
+Sunday morning to see the &quot;market,&quot; and the curio hunter would just be
+in his element, as not only do the Indians bring in vegetables and
+fruits, but all sorts of native silver in quaint shapes, and ornaments
+made by the Indians themselves can be picked up very cheaply. The
+dresses of the Indian squaws are also very picturesque, and, as far as I
+can remember, red, green, and bright yellow were the dominating colours.
+But I am getting away from the main subject.</p>
+
+<p>Right ahead of us there is the gigantic Illimani, silent and majestic,
+with its perpetually white crown rising 22,000 feet above sea-level. One
+begins to wonder where La Paz can be, as the plain seems to extend right
+to the foot of the mountain. Keeping steadily on, however, the coach
+eventually arrives at the brink of a hitherto unnoticed hollow, and the
+scene that here awaits the traveller is magnificent in the extreme. To
+describe the view baffles my limited vocabulary. There you are looking
+down on the roofs of the houses in La Paz, which lies snugly 1,200 feet
+below you. It just seems that you could drop a stone on to them, so
+precipitate are the cliffs; but it is the enormous drop that deceives
+the eye, because, <a name="Page_167"></a>of the route over which the coach passes, six miles
+have yet to be traversed before getting into the town. I have seen La
+Paz from the top of the &quot;Cuesta&quot; both by day and night, and the latter
+effect, while losing much of its grandeur and magnificence, on account
+of the darkness, almost surpasses in beauty that of the daylight vision.
+The whole city is lit up by electricity, and it just seems as if one
+were gazing <i>down</i> on another firmament, if such a thing can be
+imagined. I repeat, that to fully appreciate this special scenery words
+fail me.</p>
+
+<p>Allow me to transgress once more. On the first occasion that I reached
+the top of the entrance to La Paz it was under rather &quot;sporting&quot;
+circumstances, which, I think, I may be excused for interpolating here.
+I had come on horseback and <i>alone</i> from the mining town of Coro Coro,
+sixty-six miles off, and it is a very hard and tiring journey. The
+elevation above the sea varies from about 14,000 feet to 12,000 feet at
+the La Paz end, and therefore great speed is impossible on account of
+the rarity of the air. Apparently I had journeyed too fast for my horse,
+as the poor animal died when I was still eighteen miles from La Paz.
+Here was a nice &quot;kettle of fish.&quot; It was all right enough as long as
+daylight lasted, but when darkness overtook me I was fairly &quot;in the
+soup.&quot; Not knowing the road, and there being nothing to guide me and no
+one to consult, I simply walked along slowly, hoping to strike up
+against some Indian settlement, and pass the night somehow or other. I
+trudged along for goodness knows how long until I eventually did hear
+some sounds indicating that at any rate I was nearing some encampment or
+habitation. I could hear what was supposed to be music, and in the dark
+made my way, as near as I could judge, in the direction of the sound,
+and in about half an hour my efforts were rewarded, as I had overtaken a
+band of roving<a name="Page_168"></a> Indians, all in fancy dress, playing funny reed
+instruments and dancing continuously as they travelled. They could not
+speak Spanish, but at that time I knew sufficient of their
+language&mdash;&quot;Aymara,&quot; as it is called&mdash;and soon explained to them my
+position. I was allowed to accompany them, as I found they also were
+bound for La Paz, and soon became a lifelong friend of theirs when I
+produced a small bottle of whisky which I had with me. The experience
+was of a unique nature for a white man, but I must confess I rather
+appreciated the novelty than otherwise, and when I reached La Paz about
+1 a.m. I felt that I had had quite an adventure, which might easily have
+had a more sinister termination, had my Indian escort shown the other
+side of their nature. Well, to come back to our old coach, which I think
+I left at the top of the La Paz entrance, I resumed my seat and got into
+the city at mid-day. I put up at an excellent hotel, of which there were
+several, and at once bethought me of looking for work, as the balance in
+my bank (otherwise my pocket) did not warrant my looking upon my visit
+to La Paz as one of pleasure only. At the time I write of there was one
+solitary Britisher resident in La Paz, and he was a Scotchman like
+myself. This was before the railway from Oruro was built, and he was
+proprietor of the coaches that ran, once a week, from La Paz to the
+south; and I understood had quite a remunerative business. La Paz is a
+peculiarly situated city, as the reader may imagine from my description
+of its position. The streets are mostly hilly and steep, with the
+exception of one or two which run parallel to each other on both sides
+of the valley, at the foot of, and in the centre of which flows, the La
+Paz river. This it bridged in about half a dozen places for horse
+traffic, and while, for most of the year, there is scarcely any water in
+the river, when <a name="Page_169"></a>the snow melts it is converted into a veritable roaring
+torrent; and I happened to be present during one of the most serious
+accidents that had ever occurred from this cause.</p>
+
+<p>It had rained very copiously for some days, and the river had risen
+enormously&mdash;in fact higher than ever before recorded&mdash;and many were the
+predictions as to how the bridges would stand the weight of water. The
+usual sightseers were about, and, unfortunately, a large number of them
+paid the penalty with their lives. They had been duly warned that a
+certain bridge was dangerous and threatened to give way, but this
+evidently excited their curiosity all the more; at any rate, a crowd
+tried to cross, with the result that the bridge tumbled into the raging
+stream, carrying with it over 200 people, and many of them were
+drowned&mdash;the exact number was never known.</p>
+
+<p>Quite an important city is La Paz, and a large number of wealthy
+mine-owners reside there, drawing their incomes from rich tin mines in
+the neighbourhood. There are also numerous stores from which the wants
+of the distant population that reside in the rubber country are
+supplied. The larger proportion of the inhabitants are Indians, and I
+cannot help remarking that the Bolivian Indians, men and women, are
+about the ugliest type of human creatures I have yet seen. Besides, they
+are very illiterate, and it is estimated that, of the total population
+of Bolivia, only about 30 per cent. can read or write. In the south,
+Aymara is chiefly spoken; but further north, Quechua is the commoner
+language. I saw several bull fights in the bullring of which the town
+boasts, but they were so very disgusting that I refrain from nauseating
+my readers with details.</p>
+
+<p>The Cathedral was only half completed when I was there, and I understand
+is still in the same condition. I <a name="Page_170"></a>was forgetting to mention that there
+was no British Minister or Consul in La Paz, and the story goes that, at
+some previous period, a Bolivian President compelled the British
+official representative to ride round the plaza seated on a donkey, but
+with his face to the tail; the consequence being that the Prime Minister
+of Great Britain figuratively wiped Bolivia off the map. Anything which
+we required from the Diplomatic Service had to be obtained through the
+medium of the British Minister resident in Lima, in Peru. This may now
+be altered, but I am not aware of the fact. I remained several months in
+La Paz in the employment of a Bolivian magnate, but the remuneration not
+being commensurate with my ambitions, I eventually arranged to accompany
+the proprietor of a very large rubber forest on a trip to his properties
+on the higher reaches of the River Amazon, and hence my privilege of
+being able to offer you a perusal of my experiences across the inner
+ranges of the Cordillera mountains. His daughter also accompanied him,
+and, although the journey is a most uncomfortable one in more ways than
+one, she stood the fatigue of many days' riding on mule-back, over
+trails which did not deserve the name of roads, just about as well as
+any of the rest of us.</p>
+
+<p>For a trip of this kind many provisions have to be made, as very little
+indeed can be procured on the journey in the way of good food or
+lodging. We accordingly had to carry our beds and bedding, and in fact
+everything we could think of in the form of clothes, food, firearms,
+and, of course, the necessary accompaniment in liquid form. Most of our
+baggage and what we might not require at a moment's notice we sent on
+ahead with a day's anticipation, and eventually on the 20th May, 1901,
+our caravan departed from the then capital of Bolivia, at 8 a.m. Our
+conveyance, to start with, consisted of a coach drawn by four mules, and
+<a name="Page_171"></a>it took much longer to climb the steep &quot;Cuesta&quot; than it had taken us to
+descend on previous occasions already mentioned. However, our animals
+were good and in about an hour and a-half we reached the top of the
+hill, and I took what proved to be my last view of La Paz City.</p>
+
+<p>The journey for the first forty miles is over the same ground as I have
+already referred to, in the direction of Lake Titicaca, and there is
+nothing more to be said about it, beyond that we changed animals at a
+place called Ocomisto, this being simply a few Indian huts where there
+is always a supply of grain and water for the animals, and the ordinary
+country fare for the passing traveller. There was a long journey ahead
+of us, so we only remained during the time that was occupied in
+outspanning the tired mules and inspanning the fresh lot. At 1 o'clock
+we reached Machacamarca, another &quot;tambo&quot; or resting-place, and were very
+disgusted to find that our pack animals, which we had dispatched the day
+before, had got no farther than this point. Our desired destination for
+the night was the Indian town of Achicachi, twelve leagues off, but as
+it was now quite out of the question to think of travelling our baggage
+animals so far before night should overtake us, we had to change our
+plans and therefore directed our coach towards Guarina, another Indian
+town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but much nearer than Achicachi, and
+we eventually arrived there at 5 p.m., having covered, more or less,
+fifty miles since morning. The journey seemed longer, as the country is
+so much alike all along the route; but as the roads were fair,
+travelling was quite comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>Guarina is purely an Indian fishing village, and the only white people
+are the Bolivian half-caste authorities. As I have already stated, there
+are no hotels or even lodging-houses in these Indian towns, and ordinary
+travellers have just to hunt about until they find a place suitable to
+put <a name="Page_172"></a>beds for the night. However, as my friend was a &quot;personage&quot; in
+Bolivia, in other words, a man of position and power in political
+circles, we of course fared considerably better than we should otherwise
+have done had he not been with us; and we were invited to put up in the
+house of one of these men in authority. He did his best for us in their
+frugal way of living, and gave us a meal consisting of &quot;Chairo,&quot; which
+is soup as black as coal, and made from frozen potatoes which are called
+&quot;chuno.&quot; These are about the size of walnuts, hard and black, and have
+to be well soaked before cooking, and then they are not a savoury bite.
+The next plate consisted of &quot;Chalona,&quot; already described as lean sheep
+dried in the sun, and which, generally speaking, is very repugnant in
+appearance, smell, and taste. Never mind, we were hungry and partook of
+whatever was brought along, until the &quot;inner man&quot; cried content! The
+meal, I may add, was washed down with a cheap &quot;wine&quot; distilled from
+cheaper raisins, but it was something wet, and for the time sufficed.</p>
+
+<p>Our pack animals arrived at Guarina about 7 p.m., and we very soon had
+our things unpacked and occupied our beds, knowing that a pretty early
+start would be made in the morning. The night passed uneventfully, and
+at daybreak we got under way, bound for Achicachi, about five leagues
+off. There is still a road for vehicles to this town, and keeping along
+the shores of Lake Titicaca, we reached this larger Indian town about 9
+a.m. The population was about 5,000 Indians, but it is a very
+uninteresting, bleak spot, and we only remained long enough to have a
+square meal, which we were again fortunate enough to have provided for
+us by the reigning magistrate. That over, we then dispatched our coach
+on its return journey to La Paz, and thought of our other means of
+transport for the forward journey. Good <a name="Page_173"></a>mules we had sent ahead, and
+were now awaiting us saddled and ready, and we at last got started on
+this the more arduous part of our journey inland. Our destination for
+the night was Gualata, a small holding belonging to my fellow-traveller,
+and we reached it at about 1 o'clock, having climbed probably 2,000 feet
+higher up the mountains. Cultivation of cereals and potatoes is carried
+on on a limited scale, owing to the altitude, and taking it all round,
+the house, although comfortable enough, was situated in about as bleak
+and bare a spot as it is pretty well possible to imagine.</p>
+
+<p>Nevertheless, it was peopled by about sixty Indians, who turned out in
+true Indian style in their beautifully coloured robes and making
+horrible discordant noises which were intended for music&mdash;all, of
+course, to show their appreciation of their &quot;patron.&quot; Here, of course,
+we got all we required, and as there were any amount of fowls to be had,
+our bill-of-fare improved in accordance. There was nothing to do
+specially, and we did not feel inclined to move about much at this
+elevation above the sea, so we were quite pleased when bed-time came
+round, and without any ceremony each retired to their respective couches
+<i>on the floor</i>. Owing to excessive cold, however, sleep was out of the
+question, and it was a relief when day dawned on May 22nd. After
+refreshing ourselves with a cup of tea we set out for Sorata, distant
+about six leagues. Travelling was now much slower as the roads were very
+bad, and in some places very steep and covered with loose stones. This
+made the foothold bad for the mules, but we trusted to the useful
+animals entirely, letting them go along on a loose rein to choose their
+own footing, which they did very successfully. We passed the Indian
+village of Illabaya, perched on the side of a hill, and all plotted out
+in small squares for the cultivation of vegetables, etc., of which we
+<a name="Page_174"></a>bought a supply for our own use. The highest point we passed was over
+14,000 feet, and then began the gradual descent into the pretty little
+town of Sorata, 6,000 feet lower down. The path was not of the best, and
+the pace was very slow; but the scenery was quite refreshing compared
+with what we had already passed through.</p>
+
+<p>Sorata is indeed very pretty and quaint, and although comparatively out
+of the world, a traveller can spend a short time there pleasantly, and
+personally speaking, the few days we remained were very enjoyable,
+thanks once more to my friend's influence. For a change we did not sleep
+on the floor, and by way of recreation I scented out a billiard table,
+not a good one, it is true, and the balls were rather elliptical; but as
+I had once personated the &quot;Mikado,&quot; <i>&agrave; la Gilbert &amp; Sullivan</i>, the
+conditions were not so disconcerting as they would doubtless have been
+to a less famous personage! Sorata, being the nearest town to the
+Bolivian rubber districts which export their products to the Pacific
+coast, is naturally of more consequence on that account, as all
+materials and merchandise for the interior must pass through the hands
+of the Sorata merchants, while the rubber exported to the coast also
+finds its way through the medium of Sorata agents.</p>
+
+<p>There is the usual plaza in the centre of the town, where the youth and
+beauty disport themselves in the way peculiar to these mountainous
+regions, which consists of walking round and round at a good pace to
+keep up the circulation, as the weather is nearly always cold in Sorata.
+Illampu, the competitor of Illimani and Aconcagua, and which claims to
+be the highest peak in South America, rises up magnificently right above
+and round the town, and visitors for the first time must really wonder
+how they are to find a road to cross these gigantic mountains, as the
+town appears to be so completely shut in.</p><a name="Page_175"></a>
+
+<p>However, on 27th May we started to ascend the track forming the way to
+the interior, and got a fine send-off by the inhabitants, the more
+important of whom turned out to bid us adieu and wish us luck over a
+case or two of beer. The climb before us was a constant one for 18
+miles, and to-day we were to pass the highest point of our entire trip.
+This we reached about midday, at just under 16,000 feet. We were above
+the perpetual snow-line for a short time, and it was piercingly cold,
+besides we had to go slowly on account of the thin air, but we kept
+steadily on and reached an old mining establishment called &quot;El Injenio&quot;
+at 5 p.m., having done 24 miles in all since morning. There is a long,
+steep descent to the old mining camp by a narrow winding track cut out
+of the mountain side, and as the drop on one side to the little stream
+down below was about 40 to 50 feet, and there was no protecting fence of
+any kind, we decided to get off our mules, and accordingly completed the
+worst part of the way on foot, and of course this made travelling very
+much slower.</p>
+
+<p>Apparently, gold-washing had not been carried on for a very long time,
+as although the main building still has a roof, the whole place has a
+very deserted look about it; but, nevertheless, it still affords a
+covering for weary travellers like ourselves, and we soon began to
+select the most comfortable looking corners for our beds. There was an
+old Indian there who earns a meagre existence by selling forage to
+passing travellers for their beasts of burden; and he was also utilised
+by us for getting a fire ready and boiling water for a welcome cup of
+warm tea.</p>
+
+<p>One thousand feet above our heads, as it seemed, we could see Llane,
+another of these quaint, Indian hamlets, but the appearance of the
+exceedingly precipitate track up to it did not excite us in any desire
+to make the ascent. After partaking of some food, we got under our
+blankets in <a name="Page_176"></a>the usual way at sunset to once more sleep the sleep of the
+contented traveller. By 6.15 next morning we were again in the saddle
+and under way&mdash;the road was now even narrower than before, about two
+feet wide only&mdash;winding round and round the mountain side, ascending all
+the time, and in some parts far too steep for comfortable riding. From
+now onwards the journey was over tracks, not roads, and many of the
+ascents and descents were so steep that it was quite out of the question
+to attempt to negotiate them on muleback. We, accordingly, with
+philosophic patience had just to accept the inevitable, and get off and
+lead our animals over these now really dangerous parts. Some of the
+precipices down to the river bed were now much deeper, and had we slid
+over, we might have experienced considerable inconvenience at the
+bottom, and a greater difficulty in getting up again. The roads became
+worse and worse, and really they could be given no other name than
+&quot;goat-tracks,&quot; but the mule is a wonderful beast, and let him have his
+head (on no account attempt to guide him), there is not much fear of any
+serious trouble. Our sleeping place for the night was to be at an old
+ruin of a house at a bare, but more level, opening in the mountains,
+called Tolapampa, and before reaching this we had to negotiate much the
+worst pass on the whole route. This is called the &quot;tornillo&quot; (screw),
+and it is a real corkscrew path, cut out of the mountain side at an
+angle of about 50 deg., and about 450 feet of a climb.</p>
+
+<p>Riding was of course impossible, and we scrambled more than walked until
+we safely got over the top, very tired and puffed out. The mules with
+their cargo followed our example, and it was wonderful to see how they
+kept their feet; as one false step might have sent them to the bottom,
+carrying everything behind them too, and on more than one occasion this
+has happened, the animals falling, <a name="Page_177"></a>generally being killed outright in
+the fall. Pushing on as fast as possible, it was not till 4 o'clock p.m.
+that our residence for the night loomed in view, and it did not inspire
+one that it could supply much in the way of home comforts. Sure, the old
+hovel had walls and a roof, but beyond that there were no windows, and
+where the door ought to have been there was only a hole in the wall, but
+nothing to close it with to keep out the intense cold.</p>
+
+<p>We, of course, knew when we started that we would have to rough it, so
+there was no use grumbling now, and therefore set about at once to get
+something to make a fire with. With great good fortune we, after a great
+deal of searching and gathering, obtained some old rubbish that burned.
+I say with good luck, because this is a treeless region yet, at an
+elevation of 10,000 feet, and fuel is naturally always at a premium. For
+cooking it did not matter so much, as we had a spirit lamp, but it was
+to warm our bodies and keep up our spirits that made the fire so
+desirable. Darkness was on us before we finished our evening meal, and
+we looked forward to the night with no very pleasant forebodings&mdash;and it
+did turn out a tiresome night&mdash;it rained all the time and the cold was
+extreme&mdash;so much so, that we eventually sat up most of the time, hoping
+by daylight to move on to a more charitable atmosphere.</p>
+
+<p>I think I should not miss this opportunity of relating an experience of
+mine when I journeyed over the same route on another occasion. Then I
+was only accompanied by two Indians&mdash;no white people&mdash;and was travelling
+towards Sorata. I remember very well we reached Tolapampa, already
+described, in the afternoon, it having rained constantly all day. I was
+suffering from malaria very acutely, and the high levels at which we had
+been travelling also affected me grievously. I arrived at Tolapampa
+soaked to the skin, shivering cold, and <a name="Page_178"></a>really more dead than alive. To
+aggravate matters we could not light a fire&mdash;everything was wet&mdash;and I
+can assure you it was anything but a bright outlook for us. Another gang
+of about ten Indians also turned up, and we did look a sorry lot.
+However, these natives, seeing that I was so weak (I had had malaria
+almost constantly during the previous six months), did all they could to
+get me to &quot;buck up,&quot; and kept moving me backwards and forwards to warm
+myself, which operation I well remember was a very tedious one. They
+also tried to get me to eat of their cold frugal fare; but that was
+beyond me; and after they decided it was time to rest for the night, I
+scrambled in <i>amongst them</i>&mdash;Indians all round me&mdash;so as to benefit from
+the heat of their bodies. It was neither a very pleasant nor a very
+clean position that I occupied, and I can hardly realise how I had the
+courage to do what I did; but the facts remain the same, and at any rate
+I got some rest.</p>
+
+<p>It poured all night, and when at daybreak I suggested to my men that it
+was time to start, they positively refused to move until the rain
+ceased. I brought all my persuasive powers to bear, but it was of no
+avail, and as I had decided to go on alone, all I got out of them was a
+promise they would follow me at 10 o'clock. It was very disappointing,
+but I was determined to get forward at all cost. I therefore started on
+my lonely journey at eight o'clock, with the rain, and at times sleet,
+coming down in bucketfuls; I could hardly see in front of me at times,
+and it was destined to be a trip of which I shall always retain very
+vivid recollections. On this occasion, owing to the excessive rains, all
+the little mountain streams, which under normal circumstances are of no
+inconvenience to travellers, had been converted into veritable roaring
+torrents, causing me on more than one occasion to think twice before
+attempting a crossing. To condense matters as much as possible, let me
+remark that it <a name="Page_179"></a>rained all day; travelling was not only difficult but
+positively dangerous, and I, being so ill, could hardly keep my seat on
+my mule. All this made travelling so slow that I was still a long way
+from &quot;El Injenio,&quot; my objective point for the night, when darkness
+overtook me. I had the narrow, dangerous paths to go along which I have
+already described, and I therefore did not trust to getting over them on
+muleback, but took the safer and, in my opinion, more sensible plan of
+leading my animal. This was tedious work, but it was to become worse
+very soon. I arrived at one of those swollen mountain streams, the
+appearance of which in the darkness fairly frightened me. My mule would
+not look at it, and for a while I did not know exactly what to do. I
+could judge that it was four or five feet deep, and rushing past at a
+great rate. Neither mule nor I could ever have hoped to keep our feet if
+we had attempted crossing, as it was about thirty feet wide. I left my
+mule and commenced to reconnoitre along the side, when I came to what
+had been a bridge, but which was partly washed away, leaving a gap of
+about four feet in the middle, as far as I could judge in the uncertain
+light, and over which it was impossible for a mule to go. Leaving my
+mule, I made a good jump, and, fortunately, got over all right, but,
+after all, I did not know in the least where I was, and, before
+attempting to return to my animal, I started to go forward in the hope
+of at least striking some sheltered spot where I might pass the night.
+Meantime, however, I heard a crash, and, as it turned out, away had gone
+the remainder of the bridge, leaving me on one side, and now completely
+isolated from my mule and saddle-bags. There was no use fretting, so I
+continued moving on&mdash;it was now dark&mdash;feeling my way, and keeping very
+carefully away from the river. I had not proceeded very far before my
+progress was all too suddenly arrested. I did not until the next morning
+know what <a name="Page_180"></a>actually did take place, but the facts are as follows: In
+groping my way along I had actually been walking on the very edge of a
+sort of precipice, and apparently had simply stepped over the side. At
+any rate, I rolled to the bottom, which, luckily for me, was only about
+fifteen feet; but it was quite a bump, and I wondered where I had
+actually landed. As it was so black, and I did not know anything of my
+surroundings, I simply made up my mind to remain where I had fallen
+until morning. I ought to tell you that, although I had plenty of
+matches, they were all wet with the rain, so that they would not light,
+and I had to remain in darkness all night. My saddle-bags were with the
+mule, and I did not even know now where the animal might be. I was
+soaking wet, shivering with ague, nothing to eat, plenty of cigarettes
+and matches, but unable to smoke or even make a light, so my
+disagreeable plight can to some extent be imagined. Moreover, there were
+about six inches of water all round me, so that I could not attempt to
+sleep. The cold was intense, and I can safely say that I never spent
+such a long, disagreeable, and dreary night in all my previous
+experience, and I hope never to be compelled to do so again. There are
+bears in this district also, but I am thankful to say that I was not
+molested in any way.</p>
+
+<p>Towards morning the rain slackened, and when daylight came I never felt
+more thankful in my life. I climbed out of my nest, and there, only
+about a hundred yards away, was my faithful mule standing exactly as I
+had left him. I waited until the water in the stream had gone down
+sufficiently, and crossing on foot, with the water about two feet deep,
+I mounted my mule, and then recrossed on muleback. I knew from the
+number of hours I had travelled on the previous day I could not be far
+from Injenio, and I was right, as in less than an hour I saw my
+destination right ahead of me. I was in a pitiful condition, <a name="Page_181"></a>and could
+hardly stand up. The old Indian recognised me and got me dry wraps after
+a fashion, and I got under his dry blankets. I could not eat, but I
+drank a large quantity of &quot;Aguardiente,&quot; which at least put some life
+into me. In the meantime I did not know what had become of my pack
+animals and Indians, but I was not in a state to worry about them, and
+didn't. Instead, I kept my bed for about thirty hours, until I was
+revived somewhat. Then, luckily, my men turned up, and I was able to
+continue my journey to Sorata.</p>
+
+<p>Well, we left Tolapampa about 6 a.m., and for the best part of the day
+the route was over country very similar to that passed on the previous
+day; but we were descending rapidly now, and the temperature became
+perceptibly much warmer, in fact, by the afternoon we had indications
+that soon we should arrive in the &quot;montes,&quot; where we would have
+vegetation in abundance, and consequently we would at least have some
+shade during the heat of the day. The road, nevertheless, continued to
+be very rough and broken, and we had frequently to dismount and lead our
+animals for long distances at a time. The long pass of Margurani was
+unusually tiring, as it was down hill most of the time, and over loose
+rocks and stones, which were very hard on our poor feet. Pararani, a
+small stopping-place, was reached about 2 p.m., and as both we and the
+animals had just about had enough of it, we decided to remain for the
+night.</p>
+
+<p>We were now right in tropical surroundings, and the beautiful palms and
+ferns, not to mention the magnificent butterflies of all colours, were a
+grateful contrast to the scenery we had been accustomed to since we left
+Sorata. We were now only about two thousand feet above sea level, and
+the weather was very hot indeed, mosquitoes and other worrying insects
+were very plentiful; but, bad as <a name="Page_182"></a>they can be, they seemed trivial
+troubles compared with what we had come through. At this &quot;puesto&quot; we
+were better treated, as we obtained vegetables, bananas, and oranges,
+and with our tinned stuffs made quite a decent repast. The place was
+owned by a Spaniard, and he, along with his wife, cultivates a little
+piece of ground, and supplied passing travellers with general rations
+for both man and beast. The place was clean in comparison with what we
+had been accustomed to, and we seemed to sigh a mutual sigh of content
+at our good luck in reaching this &quot;oasis.&quot; We rested all afternoon, and
+got to bed early, and, although there were rats about, I slept &quot;like a
+log,&quot; I was so fearfully tired.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, however, I awoke refreshed, and with our usual
+punctuality got away at 6 o'clock, feeling that at last we were nearing
+our journey's end, as we now directed our animals' heads towards
+Copacabana, the nearest of the rubber forests belonging to my friend.
+This was only three or four leagues off, and the going was somewhat
+improved also, so our progress was a good deal faster than usual. During
+the greater part of the present journey, the weather, so far, had been
+fairly good, that is, taking into consideration the high regions through
+which we had come, but we were not fated to be so successful on this our
+last day. In fact, we had not gone far, when a really characteristic
+tropical shower baptized us properly, and continued during the whole of
+the rest of the day, the result being, as may be imagined, that we
+arrived at &quot;Copacabana&quot; like the proverbial &quot;drookit mice.&quot; As the path
+was beneath the trees all the way, we got the full benefit of the rain
+dripping from the branches overhanging, which was just like a shower
+bath all the time. However, I got into dry clothes, and, I think, felt
+when I got into the Estancia house, that after all the &quot;roughing,&quot; the
+trip was, <a name="Page_184"></a>in part, compensated for by the new experiences I had gone
+through, making my way over these very mountainous regions at such a
+very high elevation.</p>
+
+<p>However, I remained for over a year in the rubber districts, and had an
+opportunity of seeing how the work is carried on and of judging of the
+enormous profit which must result to the lucky owners. Unfortunately,
+the climate is of the very worst, and the malaria being of a very
+malignant nature, is very hard on white people. I had my full share of
+this &quot;terciana,&quot; as it is called, and sometimes wonder how I really
+managed to work my way to the outside world again.</p>
+
+<p>In conclusion, let me express a modest hope that the perusal of my
+humble effort to put personal adventures on paper may at least convey to
+the reader some idea of what has to be experienced if one chooses to be
+a wanderer like myself in remote places, and that he or she may to a
+certain extent enjoy the result nominally, without going through the
+hard work involved in the actual performance.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_F_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_F_6">[F]</a><div class="note"><p> Allow me to remind the reader that Lake Titicaca is the
+highest water in the world which is navigated by steam.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Loading_Wheat_at_the_Port_of_Buenos_Aires"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image17.png" width="463" height="394" alt="Loading Wheat at the Port of Buenos Aires." title="" />
+</center><a name="Page_187"></a>
+
+<h4>Loading Wheat at the Port of Buenos Aires.</h4>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="PROGRESS_OF_THE_PORT_OF_BUENOS_AIRES"></a><h2>PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES.</h2>
+
+<p>The first Custom House built for the port of Buenos Aires was in 1603.
+The only work carried out in the harbour up to the end of the eighteenth
+century was the construction of thirty-five metres of brick quay-wall at
+the site of the &quot;Arsenal&quot; on the Riachuelo. We find that although
+between the years 1852 and 1858 many plans were presented for building
+of piers, these were only carried into practice and built by the
+Government under the technical direction of Engineer E. Taylor; a new
+Custom House replacing the fortress, a timber pier for loading and
+unloading goods, and another pier for passenger traffic at the locality
+of the old mole. In the year 1878 the Riachuelo was first opened for
+traffic for sea-going ships, and in 1879, 197 vessels with 55,091
+tonnage had entered the Riachuelo. As early as 1862 Ed. Madero turned
+his attention to the question of docks for the port of Buenos Aires, and
+in 1865 applied for permission to construct them at his own cost, but
+the application was rejected. Four years later he presented another
+application, which suffered the same fate. In 1869 the total exports
+from Buenos Aires were 397,722 tons, the bulk of which were loaded at
+the Riachuelo, and steamers over 100 metres long frequented the harbour
+about the time of 1870. It was not until 1882 that Ed. Madero succeeded
+in obtaining the concession of building the docks for the port of Buenos
+Aires. The docks were to be constructed on the river side of the city,
+<a name="Page_188"></a>between the gasworks on the north and the Riachuelo River on the south.</p>
+
+<p>The trade of the City of Buenos Aires up to the time of the opening of
+the South Basin had nearly all been carried on between the shore and the
+steamers by lighters and small steam tenders. The usual anchorage for
+the ocean steamers was in the &quot;bar anchorage,&quot; a distance of about
+fourteen miles from the city. The cargoes were transhipped into
+lighters, which brought them as near to the shore as possible, and from
+this point they were taken to the Custom House in specially-constructed
+carts with very large wheels. Passengers were transhipped in the bar
+anchorage into small tenders, and were brought to a point about 500
+metres from the end of the passenger mole. From these tenders, when
+there was sufficient water, they were taken ashore in small boats,
+while, if the water was too low to go alongside the mole, they also had
+to be brought ashore in carts. In many cases, however, passengers were
+brought on in tenders and landed at the Riachuelo wharves, which were
+then under construction. The first steamers that arrived in the River
+Plate were those of the Royal Mail Company, followed by the French
+Messageries Maritimes, and shortly afterwards by the Lamport &amp; Holt
+Line.</p>
+
+<p>Up to the year 1870 these lines, and a few more that were started,
+progressed very slowly, although the rates of freight were then very
+high; but after that trade increased gradually, and not only a fair
+number of sailing-vessels arrived yearly, but the regular lines of
+steamers increased their number of sailings. The great drawback was the
+deficient state of the port, where steamers had to lie at a distance of
+fourteen to sixteen miles, and most of the sailing-vessels at ten to
+twelve miles from the shore. There was no channel dredged, and even the
+Riachuelo was so scantily <a name="Page_189"></a>supplied with water that lighters drawing
+seven to eight feet were sometimes for weeks prevented from getting out
+to deliver their cargo to the sea-going vessels in the outer roads. The
+discharge was exclusively effected into lighters, which, apart from the
+heavy expense incurred by the receiver of the goods, presented the great
+objection that a considerable portion of the cargo was often broached
+and pilfered before it reached the shore, claims for which had to be
+paid by the ship. Another point was that many of these lighters were old
+sailing-vessels or steamers, and, in the unseaworthy and leaky state
+they were in, often arrived with their cargo considerably damaged. On
+the completion of the South Basin on 28th January, 1889, passengers were
+able to embark or disembark with a little more comfort, and cargoes were
+landed on the quays. Docks 1 and 2 have each a water area of 23 acres,
+being 570 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,420
+metres. No. 3 Dock has a water area of 27 acres, is 690 metres long by
+160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,660 metres. No. 4 Dock has a
+water area of 25 acres, is 630 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a
+quay length of 1,535 metres.</p>
+
+<p>All these four docks, when they were originally finished, had a depth of
+23 feet 9 inches below low water, so that, however low the river may be,
+there should never be less than 23 feet 9 inches in the docks. Since
+then dredging has been going on and the docks have been deepened to
+receive larger vessels. The docks are united by passages 20 metres in
+width, each passage being crossed by a swing bridge. Dock No. 4 is
+entered at its northern end by the north lock. This lock opens into the
+North Basin, which has a water area of 41 acres and a quay length of
+1,409 metres and a depth of 21 feet 3 inches. The total area of the
+basins and the four docks is 174 acres, <a name="Page_190"></a>and the total length of quays
+8,482 lineal metres. The following are the dates the various basins and
+docks were opened to traffic:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>South Basin</td><td align='left'>28th January, 1889</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>South Lock, Dock No. 1</td><td align='left'>31st January, 1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dock No. 2</td><td align='left'>26th September, 1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dock No. 3</td><td align='left'>31st March, 1892</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dock No. 4, North Lock, North Basin, and Graving Docks</td><td align='left'>7th March, 1897</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>First half of North Channel</td><td align='left'>15th June, 1897</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Second half of North Channel, buoys and beacons</td><td align='left'>31st March, 1898</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>The timber sea-wall was built to a level of 16 feet above low water, and
+the stone sea-wall to 19 feet. Originally there were built three sheds
+in the South Basin, three sheds and two warehouses in Dock No. 1, two
+warehouses and two sheds in Dock No. 2, five warehouses in Dock No. 3,
+and four warehouses in Dock No. 4, the total capacity of these sheds and
+warehouses being 525,510 cubic metres, and the floor area 192,800 square
+metres. Since then, several warehouses have been built, and some burnt
+down. The total cost of the harbour works as contracted for by Ed.
+Madero was $35,000,000 gold, or, say, about &pound;7,000,000. This includes
+the South Basin, Dock No. 1, Dock No. 2, Dock No. 3, Dock No. 4, North
+Basin, North Channel, Graving Docks, machinery, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The following statement shows the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires in 1880, 1890, 1900, and 1909, and clearly shows
+the advance made in the last 30 years.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_192"></a>These figures include steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well
+as foreign trade.</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='right'>1880</td><td align='right'>644,750 tons</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1890</td><td align='right'>4,507,096 tons</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1900</td><td align='right'>8,047,010 tons</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1909</td><td align='right'>16,993,973 tons</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>In 1909 we find that 2,008 steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the
+port of Buenos Aires from foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542,
+and 1,978 steamers and 129 sailing-vessels left the port for foreign
+shores with a tonnage of 5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead
+with 2,242 steamers and 37 sailing-vessels, or, say, 53&frac12; per cent, of
+the total.</p>
+<br />
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="JUST_MY_LUCK"></a><h2>JUST MY LUCK!</h2>
+
+<p>I really have had rather bad luck. As you know, I was wrecked on my way
+out from the Old Country. The good ship &quot;Southern Cross&quot; met her fate on
+a rock in Vigo Bay, and my luggage met its fate at the same time. This
+was something of a blow, but I expected to be treated a little more
+kindly by fate when once my destination was reached; I would be a
+stranger in a new country, and fate is proverbially kind to tyros of
+every sort.</p>
+
+<p>R.M.S.P. &quot;Danube,&quot; which carried the shipwrecked passengers of the
+&quot;Southern Cross&quot; from Vigo to Buenos Aires, arrived at the Argentine
+capital towards the end of January. At the conclusion of my journey, one
+of my fellow-passengers, to whom I was saying good-bye, gave me this
+sound piece of advice: &quot;Take care of yourself, and the country will take
+care of you.&quot; I don't suppose I can have taken care of myself, for
+within two months I was down with typhoid fever. This is how fate treats
+strangers in a new country.</p>
+
+<p>You know that I had the good fortune, shortly after my arrival, to find
+employment with the Santa F&eacute; Land Company, and immediately on my falling
+ill, the Manager of the estancia sent me to bed, and reduced me to a
+milk diet. Two days later he himself took me down to the Buenos Aires
+British Hospital, and it is to this fact, and to the sensible treatment
+which I received in camp, that I in great measure owe my quick recovery.
+The journey to Buenos Aires was made as comfortable as possible. Even
+so, however, I must have been slightly delirious, for I remember
+thinking that everybody in the train was wearing <a name="Page_196"></a>a pink shirt without
+either coat or waistcoat. This must surely have been a delusion.</p>
+
+<p>I reached the hospital on a Sunday morning, and was promptly carried
+upstairs to a private ward. Though my temperature was now as much as 104
+deg., and my faculties were naturally not at their quickest, I could not
+help noticing the cheery look of the ward. There were flowers on the
+tables, the patients were obviously well cared for, everything was
+scrupulously clean, and the British nurses looked both efficient and
+attractive. The scrupulous cleanliness, together with the latest and
+most approved methods of treatment, were indeed a feature of the
+hospital in all its aspects.</p>
+
+<p>It was a short time afterwards that one of the doctors, after carefully
+diagnosing my case, ordered me to the medical ward, where there would be
+greater facilities for giving me a course of baths. In the medical ward
+my treatment was as kind and as careful as formerly, but my new
+surroundings had for the moment a rather depressing effect. I was just
+able to realise that the cases around me were more serious than in the
+private ward, and that both doctors and nurses were more grave and
+intent on their work. I was soon, however, to become delirious again,
+and for the next few days was more or less oblivious to my environment.
+After a short time I became more alive to what was happening around me.
+We typhoid patients had four cold baths daily, and those patients who in
+their normal existence were unaccustomed to one warm bath a week were
+somewhat inclined to rebel. This was amusing. My sense of humour was
+reviving. The company here was certainly more mixed than in the private
+ward&mdash;consisting as it did of every class and of every nationality, from
+Montenegrin to Turk, but it was not on that account any the less
+entertaining. Two or three berths away a <a name="Page_197"></a>brawny Scot of monster
+dimensions, who was convalescent after an acute attack of rheumatism,
+would every night before getting into bed say, with a certain na&iuml;vete,
+and without any sense of proportion, that he was going to his &quot;little
+nest.&quot; And yet people accuse Scotsmen of a lack of imagination. On
+either side of me lay a typhoid patient&mdash;each delirious. The one on my
+right hand imagined he was at home drinking beer in Plymouth, and the
+one on my left, an Italian workman, would persistently call for his
+boots. It seemed he wished to return to his work and did not think any
+other article of dress necessary. The weather at the time was certainly
+hot, and this may have suggested such a daring flaunting of the
+conventions. It is curious that among typhoid patients this illusion of
+doing some action without sufficient clothing is rather prevalent. I
+myself at one time imagined that I had been discharged from the hospital
+with only the top of my pyjamas and a travelling rug. As I would carry
+the travelling rug on my arm, it scarcely compensated for the lack of
+other apparel. Through all these vagaries on the part of the patients
+the nurses remained kind and careful as ever. This was especially
+conspicuous in one case, where a patient insisted that his nurse was a
+Chinese pirate, and behaved accordingly, but she gave her charge the
+same excellent attention as before. At this time I began to be troubled
+with the pangs of a great hunger. After subsisting for five weeks on
+milk alone, my food diet began with small doses of cornflour and with
+large doses of castor oil, but at last there came a chicken. I shall
+never forget that first chicken, nor the nurse who brought it to me. How
+I tore those bones&mdash;of the chicken, not the nurse&mdash;apart, and how I
+attacked them in my fingers so that I should not leave any of the good
+meat. Eventually my bed in the medical ward was required for a more
+serious case than myself, and I was <a name="Page_198"></a>sufficiently well to be returned to
+the private ward for a few days of convalescence. The patients here were
+certainly more companionable than in the medical ward, and they suffered
+from less grave complaints. They were for the most part victims of
+accidents, and were all nearly well enough to leave the hospital. In the
+evenings we generally had some sort of amusement among ourselves. The
+<i>pi&egrave;ce de resistance</i> was more often than not a wrestling match between
+the man with the amputated foot and the man who had undergone an
+operation for sciatica. As both performers were in ordinary
+circumstances compelled to use crutches, their efforts were distinctly
+humorous.</p>
+
+<p>It was after two months of medical treatment that I was able to leave
+the British Hospital, and it was only when on the point of leaving that
+I realised what we Britishers owe to this institution.</p>
+
+<p>The building itself is constructed on the most approved designs, it is
+fitted with every modern appliance, both medical and surgical; the
+treatment is excellent, the percentage of cures remarkable&mdash;not a single
+case has been lost in the medical ward during the current year; the
+doctors are not only experienced, but efficient; and finally, the
+nurses&mdash;but perhaps I have already dwelt with sufficient emphasis on
+their virtues.</p>
+
+<p>All the same, thank Heaven I return to camp in a week, and may fate deal
+more kindly with me in the future.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<br /><br /><br />
+<a name="THE_TACURUquot"></a><h2>&quot;<a name="Page_199"></a>THE TACURU.&quot;</h2><a name="Page_201"></a>
+
+<br /><br /><br />
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<hr style="width: 15%;" />
+
+<h5>PATRON SAINT: GEORGE WASHINGTON.</h5>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 15%;" />
+<h5>No. 1.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Saturday, March 26th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+
+<p>When we consider the already overstocked journalistic world, and
+remember the innumerable papers and magazines which greet one at every
+street corner and nestle in every armchair, we feel that an apology is
+due to our readers (if any) for our temerity in swelling the overflow of
+periodicals, but let us assure you our reasons for putting another paper
+on the market are purely altruistic. It is no idea of mere gain, or even
+a desire for notoriety that urges us to issue &quot;The Tacuru&quot;; we have
+undertaken this responsibility because we know that the world would be
+the loser did we refuse to give to the public the highly scientific
+impressions formed by an extraordinarily intelligent party of pilgrims
+during a unique journey into the wild uncultivated northern lands of the
+Argentine, especially as some of the most intellectual (the superlative
+adverb is well chosen) members of the band have promised to give their
+scientific views on the lands through which we shall pass daily. Though
+this expedition is only advertised to last a fortnight, yet we have no
+intention of closing our paper at the end of that time, for we are
+certain that once the public have been educated to appreciate the
+high-class literature and useful information which it will be the aim of
+&quot;The Tacuru&quot; to supply, we shall have created a demand and interest
+which not even Halley's comet can rival, and we shall endeavour to
+satisfy that demand daily. Our only fear was that lest the world <a name="Page_202"></a>should
+be kept waiting for the publication of our paper, for though everything
+was in readiness yesterday for an early start to-day, the elements
+seemed inclined to delay us, and when rain had fallen steadily nearly
+all day, The Instigator of the trip was seen to clench his jaw yesterday
+afternoon, as he remarked &quot;We cannot start till Monday.&quot; This fiat
+caused dire consternation; the idea of waiting for two days when all
+those carts were packed ready for our immediate outset, filled the party
+with annoyance, and had it not been for the fact that The Instigator is
+a man not to be trifled with, it is possible remonstrances might have
+been raised. But, fortunately, each member of the party only possessed
+the angelic variety of temper, so no expostulations were made, and peace
+was maintained. This unequalled patience under trials was rewarded, and
+great was the joy of the party when at 8 p.m. it was found that the rain
+had ceased, and the moon shone forth in such a way as to influence The
+Instigator to rescind his decision and declare an early start for
+to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Rumour has it that The Jehu and his aide-de-camp and Our Hostess sat up
+till 12.30 a.m., finally arranging &quot;places in the carriages, food
+supplies, blankets required,&quot; and all the innumerable details which made
+for the party's comfort.</p>
+
+<p>Before we publish the impressions, contributed by one member of the
+band, on to-day's trip, we think our readers might appreciate a slight
+character sketch of each of our &quot;Staff.&quot; There are nine Pilgrims.</p>
+
+<p>FIRST: <i>The Instigator</i>. Well, he's right when you know him, but you do
+want to know him first. What possessed him to suggest that we should
+trek away north, goodness only knows, unless he was fired by a desire to
+imitate the Cook-Peary journeys, or it may have been the celebrated
+&quot;Cristobal Cocktails&quot; which inspired him to do great deeds.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_203"></a>We hear that coming out from England he earned a reputation on board
+ship as an auctioneer, and once even sold a live lord for a few
+shillings to the highest lady bidder. As a camp man he is a marvel,
+never seen on horseback, but generally discovered on his hands and knees
+fudging about with a thing he calls a pocket microscope, and
+occasionally going off into hysterics over some clod of earth, a leaf,
+or some weird microbes which he says are feeding on the alfalfa roots.
+Talking of feeding, The Instigator can eat anything, his motto is &quot;<i>tout
+jour</i>&quot;; he has the digestion of an ostrich, and says &quot;it is just as well
+to make a good meal while you are about it, for you never know when and
+where you will get the next.&quot; His best friends cannot say he is musical
+(save when others are trying to sleep); but he has a favourite song, and
+it is that old music-hall classic entitled &quot;Do, do, be always on the
+do.&quot; However, he is a very good fellow, and notwithstanding that square
+jaw of his, which seems to hint at the possibility of &quot;a man of wrath&quot;
+existing in that silent thoughtful being, he is kindness itself to all,
+and never fails to do his share of work as it comes along.</p>
+
+<p>SECOND: <i>Our Guest</i>. The Wild Man discovered this <i>rara avis</i> in a
+railway carriage, babbling for &quot;Kwilmez Beer,&quot; so he was brought along,
+and he had not been long at the Estancia before he was running first
+favourite in the Popularity Stakes. He was always ready for anything,
+and it must have been his desire to acquire knowledge which induced him
+to come with the party. The Saint has undertaken to explain to him how
+colonists thrive on the 8 per cent. system, and to teach him how many
+grains of maize make &quot;ocho.&quot; We doubt whether she will succeed in the
+latter attempt, for we fancy Our Guest will never leave eight grains of
+maize uneaten; he is a wonder for that delicacy, and feeds on it
+constantly, and we hear rumours <a name="Page_204"></a>that he intends to take some maize cobs
+home with him to his native country, and proposes to feed his &quot;team&quot; on
+it.</p>
+
+<p>THIRD: <i>The Delineator.</i> This is a misnomer, he really should be called
+&quot;The Photographer,&quot; but that sounds so common, and his views are so
+uncommon that we called him The Delineator instead; besides, he always
+travels about with maps and charts (his own, or someone else's) and when
+appealed to as to what course we should take, replies in a cold, hard
+voice, &quot;North by North, just as she goes.&quot; Like the rest of the party,
+he has never travelled quite the road we are going now, but the prospect
+of collecting a few new varieties of butterflies, moths, insects, and
+plants caused his eyes to light up with a wild gleam when he heard of
+the trip, and the yarns he spins of things unseen by the ordinary sober
+mortal are ever a joy to the listener, and make them whisper, <i>se non &egrave;
+vero &egrave; ben trovato.</i></p>
+
+<p>FOURTH: <i>The Jehu.</i> There is but one name for a man who handles his
+four-in-hand over tree-trunks, tacurus, and tussocks, as our coacher
+does. He drives as not even his namesake drove; in rain, in sunshine, in
+light, in darkness, over smooth ground or rough, he guides his steeds
+with consummate skill and care, which is wonderful to see. After a more
+than usually big bump he turns to his passengers with a cheery &quot;All
+aboard?&quot;; then gives his attention once more to the animals of which he
+is so fond, and in which he takes such pride. His knowledge of the
+horses he drives is marvellous. The Jehu is a man of great perception
+and information, and has a pleasant knack of being able to convey his
+knowledge to others. He and The Instigator have great arguments together
+which interest all listeners by day, but the discussions are not
+followed with quite so much delight by those who are privileged to hear
+them at night, when they often degenerate into a snoring competition.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_205"></a>FIFTH: <i>The Wild Man</i>&mdash;had been driven south by stress of weather and
+strikes. We should like to say something nice about him, for he always
+carries revolvers, knives, and cameras, but we fear that our kindest
+remarks may be misunderstood by one so unused to a quiet civilisation
+with no revolutions, so we refrain from all personal comments. This
+product of a land of luxuriant vegetation has a quaint penchant for
+collecting matchboxes (filled), old boots, deer horns, and any odd
+things lying about the camp belonging to himself or other people; still
+he is always cheerful and content, never grumbles, and can give valuable
+information respecting the ways of the natives who look upon him as a
+man and a brother.</p>
+
+<p>SIXTH: <i>The Chaperon</i>&mdash;has his uses. It will be his business to see that
+we are housed, clothed, and fed. The horses and peons will also be under
+his care, and if anyone wants to grumble about anything The Chaperon is
+the person to abuse. Tent-erecting is what he considers himself to be
+very good at; but rumour has it that his best accomplishment is
+hairdressing (ladies or gentlemen, English or foreign styles). His
+resources know no bounds; he has been seen to fasten up a pair of
+leggings with bits of stick. His powers of annexation, both mentally and
+materially, are indeed marvellous. He prefers to make his bed on the
+bricks or the cold, hard ground, and then enlarges on the comfort
+thereof; he generally takes his food standing up, and is always on the
+spot ready for any emergency when required.</p>
+
+<p>SEVENTH: <i>The Saint</i>&mdash;is a lady who will give away anything in her
+possession, save chicken or eggs. Just now she is making donations of
+pipes, tobacco, handkerchiefs (her own or The Instigator's), and good
+advice on matrimony. She is a person of importance, and is very keen on
+collecting knowledge which she is always ready to impart to others;
+<a name="Page_206"></a>unfortunately, some of her efforts to improve humanity have not been
+absolutely successful, but she is never discouraged, and takes up the
+next case on the list with equal enthusiasm. Most of us have to thank
+her for some good thing or other. She will do her best to keep every
+member of the party up to the mark, physically and mentally. Her
+accomplishments are numerous.</p>
+
+<p>EIGHTH: <i>My Lady</i>&mdash;is a general favourite; she will look after the lot
+of us in her own gracious fashion. Everyone goes to her for advice,
+sympathy, or help, which she is always ready to give. Even without her
+tea-basket she would be an absolute necessity for the social success of
+the trip, for, as the advertisements say of patent sweepers and the
+Encyclopaedia Britannica, &quot;no party is complete without&quot; her, so every
+one was glad to hear that she had agreed to accompany the northern
+pioneers. Those favoured ones who have seen her &quot;on the boards,&quot; whisper
+that her histrionic genius is marvellous; we, who are not among the
+fortunate number, can only say that if her acting equals her talent for
+giving (when required) a really concise, lucid description of anything,
+it must indeed be wonderful. Her quotations, too, are so ready and apt,
+though occasionally they remind us, by their vagueness, of her namesake
+and favourite book.</p>
+
+<p>NINTH: <i>The Kid</i>. Why she is brought along, nobody will ever know. It
+may have been as a &quot;contrapeso&quot; (&quot;an addition of meat or fish of
+inferior quality, thrown in to complete the weight,&quot; <i>vide</i> Arturo
+Cuyas' Dictionary), but we think she came with the sheep. Anyhow, it was
+not until the first part of the journey had been accomplished that she
+was discovered bleating in the corner of one of the coaches. We had a
+meeting to decide whether she should come on with us or not, and
+arranged to put her on the job of tidying up for the trip; but her
+hopeless incompetence <a name="Page_207"></a>and ready impertinence to her superior officers,
+necessitated instant dismissal without a character. However, as she is
+really not worth the trouble of sending back, we locked up the tea tin,
+and let her continue the journey on the condition that she will not talk
+too much, awake or asleep. With any luck, we may yet lose her somewhere
+in the wilds.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The one disappointment expressed by all the party was that Our Hostess
+decided not to accompany us on the trip, but to await our return at
+Cristobal.</p>
+
+<p>We started out from the estancia house as soon as the ladies' luggage
+could be brought downstairs, and we should like to remark, in passing,
+that it was a very affecting sight to see Our Guest, The Delineator, and
+The Wild Man lifting and carrying heavy boxes and baggage (with no
+thought of gain) out to the peons, who, under the able direction of The
+Chaperon, loaded them scientifically on to one of the four carts, which,
+when ready, were sent on ahead with the nine peons who had been told off
+for the trip. Cameras appeared from every available corner as we
+prepared to move, and many invaluable photos of the start of the caravan
+must have been secured by those who gave us such a hearty send-off. When
+at last Our Hostess had put in the final cushion and rug, and provided
+us with biscuits and bull's-eyes, and was satisfied that even she could
+do nothing more for our comfort, we parted from her with great regret,
+promising that she should receive numerous marconigrams concerning our
+welfare, and our travels en route. First went off the four-in-hand
+driven by The Jehu, who had four members of the party in his care; he
+was followed by The Chaperon, who drove a pair, and looked after the
+rest of the explorers.</p>
+
+<p>There is an old saying, &quot;Give a dog a bad name and you may as well hang
+him.&quot; The truth of this saying has <a name="Page_208"></a>never been better exemplified than
+in the case of the Chaco, which long held the reputation of being good
+for nothing. Rumour had it that the northern land was useless; life was
+impossible there for the white man; indeed, it was supposed that cattle
+even could not live there on account of the mosquitoes and garrapata;
+and Indians were said to be as thick as flies, and equally disturbing.</p>
+
+<p>The Santa F&eacute; Land Company has been one of the pioneers who steadily
+fought down these reports, and by showing what good cattle could be bred
+there, and what crops grown, has gradually opened up the possibilities
+of the northern lands to colonists and investors. Slowly but surely
+workers came north, first in fear and dread, but later with confidence,
+and now the cry is &quot;They come, and still they come.&quot; Before we had gone
+far on our journey we had an opportunity of conversing with one lately
+arrived colonist. A wonderful crop of maize attracted our notice, and we
+stopped to speak to the great, jolly, strong-framed Italian who had
+grown it. He has moved up from the south with his wife and family, and
+his fellow-workmen. They started ploughing, and though it was late in
+the season, he was persuaded to try a catch-crop of maize, with the
+result that he has to-day banked $5,000, when he never expected to
+secure a chance harvest. And so sure is he that the land will repay all
+labour and time expended upon it that he is anxious to take up a league
+and colonize it with his fellow-countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>It is the same story all through the northern lands; anyone with pluck,
+adaptability and grit can do what this man has done: indeed hard work
+and perseverance will as amply reward the labourer in the northern lands
+as they have done in the south. The sight of this great crop of valuable
+maize, on land which a few months before was a mere waste, brings the
+words of the Psalmist forcibly to one's thoughts, for surely of no
+country could it more truly <a name="Page_209"></a>be said than of the Argentine, &quot;Dwell in
+the land, and be doing good, and, verily, thou shalt be fed&quot;; and
+perhaps there are few countries in which there are less openings for the
+man whose mind is not set towards &quot;doing good&quot;: the Argentine has little
+room for the shirker.</p>
+
+<a name="Horses_awaiting_Inspection"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image18.png" width="459" height="401" alt="Horses awaiting Inspection." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Horses awaiting Inspection.</h4>
+
+<p>The rain of yesterday relieved us from the trials of dust on our
+journey, but it also made the going very heavy, and instead of
+travelling for the usual two hours before relieving horses, we were
+obliged to make an early stop for a change. This is always an
+interesting sight, for the animals are so well trained. Our total number
+is 87, and when a halt is called, these animals are all lined up in a
+row, generally against a wire fence. At the word of command they range
+themselves, backed close against the fence in a long line with their
+heads outwards. Packed tightly together they await the inspection of
+their master, who chooses the animals he requires, and as they are
+standing thus they allow themselves to be haltered up and led quietly
+away from the line to be harnessed. Their training is wonderful, but it
+is really amusing to watch the expression of the horses as they stand in
+a row while the selection takes place, they seem to be saying &quot;Please,
+sir, not I this time.&quot; Where no wire fence is available, the peons
+stretch a rope or lasso out, and the horses will line up against that in
+the same manner. During our first change of horses, unexpected
+excitement occurred. The Saint perceived a plaid horse&mdash;at least this is
+what she called it, and we believed it to be German for piebald
+horse&mdash;from which a peon had dismounted. This horse must have reminded
+her of the circus-riders of her childhood (or possibly her action was
+owing to temporary aberration); anyhow, without a word of warning, she
+leapt astride the native saddle and gave a short display of how it
+should be done. However, fortunately from her point of view, <a name="Page_210"></a>though
+disappointingly from that of the spectators, the piebald animal had not
+been trained to circus tricks, and only quietly ambled along for a few
+yards, during which time the cameras came into full play. After The
+Saint had been persuaded to dismount, and the horses were harnessed up,
+an onward move was made, and it was not long before we met our host for
+the day. He had ridden to the furthest outposts of his section to join
+us, and under his guidance we were conducted to two or three spots,
+where The Instigator inspected rodeos of animals in his charge.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at the Section house of Polvareda about midday, and found
+that our host had prepared an alarmingly sumptuous repast for his influx
+of visitors: as course followed course, roast ducks dodged the turkey,
+and were pursued by plum pudding, etc., we began to wonder if our host
+thought that meal would have to last us for the fortnight of our trip.
+But we discovered that he came from the West of England, and had not
+forgotten the ideas of hospitality current in that part of the world.
+Rumour had it that he himself had been seen carrying about pails of
+scalded milk at 4 a.m. This proceeding explains the delicious Devonshire
+cream and butter we are enjoying.</p>
+
+<p>The afternoon was spent in driving or riding round the section to
+inspect various windmills, more groups of cattle, wells, fencing, and
+new alfalfa, etc. Our host, as we were driving round, took the
+opportunity for giving us a short, successful exhibition of buck-jumping
+with his steed, whether willingly or not, neither he nor history
+mentions. At eventide, another excellent repast was provided, and The
+Saint was so impressed by the catering and culinary skill of our host,
+that she decided to inaugurate a prize to be won by the bachelor
+estanciero who shall provide the best meals for the hungry nomads during
+the trip; certainly our host for to-day has put the standard very high
+for the other <a name="Page_211"></a>competitors. A short telephonic communication was held
+during dinner with Our Hostess at Cristobal, and &quot;All's well&quot; was
+reported on both sides.</p>
+
+<a name="Stacking_Alfalfa"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image19.png" width="451" height="453" alt="Stacking Alfalfa." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Stacking Alfalfa.</h4>
+
+<a name="Alfalfa_Elevator_at_Work"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image20.png" width="460" height="398" alt="Alfalfa Elevator at Work." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Alfalfa Elevator at Work.</h4>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 2.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Sunday, March 27th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<p>The party did not sit up late last night; they had a short talk on the
+verandah for the sake of digestion, and then all retired to bed, but
+alas! not to rest. Foolishly they had imagined that mosquitoes were
+things of the past, and no nets were put up, with the result that one
+and all soon learnt that for fresh blood and newcomers there was a
+plethora of these little demons waiting with their irritating song,
+sting, and bite: from some of the party we learn complaints of other
+songs, more human, and more nasal, and it is believed that it was Our
+Guest who was heard at midnight to be murmuring the chorus of a
+favourite song, viz., &quot;Hush, boys! No noise! Silence ebryting! Listen,
+and you'll hear de little angels sing.&quot; At least it says &quot;angels&quot; in the
+song, but the word Our Guest used sounded like &quot;demons,&quot; but probably he
+was dreaming of the &quot;ping&quot; of bullets and the roar of battle as the
+snores resounded through the room, or, one might almost say, through the
+house. Very early this morning there were cries for The Chaperon: he was
+wanted to tell the time; he was wanted to bring water for ablutions; he
+was wanted to tell us when breakfast would be ready; he was wanted to
+give advice or remedies for mosquito bites, and, in general, for a short
+space of time, he justified his existence. When at last the members of
+the party had <a name="Page_212"></a>collected themselves from all sorts of odd corners,
+coffee (with the addition of bacon and eggs, and several other things)
+was served, and the interval, before the order &quot;All aboard&quot; was issued,
+was chiefly occupied in observing and discussing the effects of our
+first night's experience of bichos. Our Guest, after due deliberation,
+laid down some useful rules for future guidance, the chief being, &quot;Never
+be without a Mosquitero&quot;: his face and head were literally enlarged on
+this point, and he assured us that a mosquito's proboscis is an
+impressive point. Apparently The Kid, too, would have liked to give her
+views on mosquitoes and their ways, but her uninteresting remarks were
+cut short by The Wild Man's order of &quot;kennel up,&quot; and, given a bottle of
+cana, she seemed quite happy. Our Guest seemed to have an impression,
+also, that someone had blundered. He knew someone had slumbered (some
+had not), and plaintively he begged that he might be allowed in future
+to sleep at one estancia further ahead of the rest of the party.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the nomads had had some slapping acquaintance with mosquitoes
+during the night, and the showing of bites, swellings, lumps, etc., only
+ended when The Jehu ordered the bugle to be sounded for an onward move.
+We were well under way before half the lamentations had been entered in
+the station complaint book.</p>
+
+<p>Bidding adieu to Polvareda, where the green fields of alfalfa show the
+march of progress, we pushed forward, but as we left we were unable to
+decide whether it was a desire to escape observation (and, perhaps, the
+too-effusive thanks of the lady members of the party), or a violent
+toothache, which caused our host to conceal himself in a huge blanket
+wrapped around his head as we left, but we fear it was toothache that
+necessitated the extra wrappings.</p>
+
+<a name="The_Green_Fields_of_Alfalfa"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image21.png" width="458" height="466" alt="The Green Fields of Alfalfa." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>The Green Fields of Alfalfa.</h4>
+
+<p>We had not gone far on our journey before we crossed the bridge over Las
+Conchas. The manager of the next <a name="Page_213"></a>section met us soon afterwards, and we
+inspected the cattle on his domains. On our way from Polvareda to
+Michelot we passed the emporium of the Universal Provider of the North,
+in other words, &quot;the stores,&quot; where most of the necessities and many of
+the luxuries of life can be obtained. The Saint can never resist the
+desire of a bargain, and others of the party were anxious to see all
+that the stores contained, so we made a halt and inundated the building,
+where everything was extraordinarily neat and clean, shelves piled high
+with bales of bright-coloured cottons, cloths, and handkerchiefs; hats
+hanging in long lines, brilliant saddle-cloths, pipes, knives, tobacco,
+axes, leather goods and harness, every variety of tinned foods, barrels
+of flour, sugar, etc., all arranged with precision, and showing
+cleanliness and method at every turn. Some men were sitting on the
+benches, smoking and drinking and chatting together, for apparently &quot;the
+stores&quot; constitutes the local rendezvous and news agency for miles
+around.</p>
+
+<p>The Saint at once made purchases, for no place is stamped on her memory
+unless she has spent money there. She wanted to make the whole party
+presents of hats, handkerchiefs, or pipes, but she was restrained, and
+ultimately satisfied her generosity by choosing the best saddle-cloth
+the establishment could supply, and one or two hats. We went into the
+living-rooms of the storekeeper, and found the same attractive neatness
+there. A gramophone occupied a side table, and skins and pictures were
+hanging on the walls. The storekeeper's wife and her sister were
+attractive Englishwomen; there were two or three children running about,
+but none of them could speak anything but their father's native
+language. After this inspection we drove on, and we are glad to be able
+to register the fact that Our Guest for once acted up to the first part
+of the old adage, &quot;Earn sixpence a day and live up to it.&quot; The<a name="Page_214"></a> Jehu's
+coach had stayed behind for a while, to allow The Instigator to observe
+and note a great many things which were no business of his at all, and
+the peons had likewise remained, but The Saint, having fulfilled her
+mission of purchasing whenever possible, was content, and anxious to get
+on to the Section house for a rest before her afternoon ride, so The
+Chaperon drove on with his coach, and we are assured, on what we
+consider good authority, that when Our Guest perceived a closed gate in
+the way, and no peon at hand, he leapt from the carriage (perhaps &quot;flew&quot;
+would be a better word) and opened that gate. Possibly he had been fired
+with ambition to earn money while inspecting those crimson and blue
+handkerchiefs at the stores, for we know he appreciates &quot;colours&quot;; but,
+whatever his motive, he <i>did</i> open that gate, and let it be recorded to
+the honour of his fellow-passengers that his action was not allowed to
+pass unappreciated or unrewarded. When all the party were collected at
+Michelot estancia house, lunch was served on the verandah by a
+dour-looking Oriental, who apparently combined the duties of cook and
+parlourmaid in his own somewhat yellow person, and very well he
+performed his task, but as he went silently about his business of
+serving this large party, which he did with a slow precision and
+apparent utter disregard of his master's orders, he reminded us
+irresistibly of the soi-disant American definition of &quot;Life,&quot; and we
+began to wonder whether it were not a Chinaman who summed up existence
+in the words, &quot;After all, Life is only one d&mdash;&mdash;d thing after another.&quot;</p>
+
+<a name="Herd_of_Cattle"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image22.png" width="460" height="458" alt="Herd of Cattle." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Herd of Cattle.</h4>
+
+<p>A short siesta followed lunch, and after an early tea everyone mounted
+horses or carriages and went forth to see the sights of the
+Section&mdash;everyone, that is to say, save The Chaperon, who had other work
+to do; he it was who discovered and averted what might have been a
+disaster. Some <a name="Page_215"></a>members of the party were quite content as long as they
+were given three cups of tea, others fancied cocktails, and some babbled
+for cocoa. It was suddenly found that the supply of this last useful
+article was running short. The Kid not being a cocoa-drinker, casually
+suggested filling up the tin with tannin extract or dust; she said &quot;it
+looked the same and nobody need smell it,&quot; but The Chaperon declined to
+resort to subterfuges and rode off to the stores to supply a deficiency
+caused by his own lack of attention.</p>
+
+<p>At Michelot, as at Polvareda, great progress has been made of late
+years, alfalfa laid down, fences and wells made, and the cattle are
+improving yearly. Our last sight, before the inspection for the day was
+finished, was a wonderful rodeo of 3,000 cattle, which we viewed from
+the vantage point of the banks of a newly made reservoir. It was a
+striking picture, which will not easily be erased from the memory of
+those who saw it. The cattle, with their long continuous lowing, were
+rounded up below us, and away on the horizon the sun was setting with
+the glory one never sees better elsewhere than over a plain, leaving, as
+it rapidly sank from sight, marvellous shades of gold and crimson on the
+fantastically shaped clouds. Save for the animals and their drivers just
+around us, the whole vast space seemed so still and empty, yet on every
+hand were traces of man's labour and skill, conquering a tract of land
+which was almost valueless a few short years back.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to the house we found dinner for us on the verandah. This
+was a delightfully cool method of taking food, but rather apt to attract
+beasties, and although the philosophers and friends of the party
+arranged the lights to keep away insects as much as possible, and
+succeeded in their efforts, some members of the party preferred to take
+no risks and dined with veils wrapped around their heads, only leaving
+their mouths available. The Wild Man caused <a name="Page_216"></a>some excitement before we
+sat down to dinner by introducing us to a beast he called a &quot;railway
+insect.&quot; It certainly strongly resembled a railway train, with its green
+light on its head, red at the tail, and luminous yellow lights all over
+its caterpillar-like body; it was a most interesting discovery, and the
+Wild Man went up in everyone's estimation for a few minutes. The
+Oriental again served us with silent steadiness. It was suggested that
+one of our &quot;boys&quot; should assist him in the task of waiting on the party
+of twelve, but notwithstanding the fact that he had been told he might
+kick round any boy he chose to make an assistant, he waived aside all
+outside help with the words &quot;no good,&quot; and continued on his way
+imperturbably.</p>
+
+<p>The Instigator, with The Delineator and The Jehu, had a long discussion
+after dinner on various Argentine subjects too deep for the ordinary
+mortal, though The Wild Man and The Chaperon seemed to be trying to take
+an intelligent interest in the conversation. Our Guest sat silent,
+looked sad, and on being offered a penny for his thoughts, he murmured
+that he was wondering whether he would be allowed any sleep to-night.
+Doubtless he felt wearied, because, as it is Sunday, The Chaperon had
+been allowed to take a half-day off for his own amusements, and Our
+Guest, perhaps stimulated by his financial success of the morning,
+offered to fulfil the duties of chaperon during his absence; but we
+regret to say that we cannot candidly advise Our Guest to take up
+chaperoning as a means of livelihood, for though willing and tactful, he
+lacks the long training and apprenticeship necessary for continual
+service in this arduous work.</p>
+
+<p>The ladies seemed happier, for they had noted the mosquito nets over
+each bed in their room, and they looked forward to a peaceful night. We
+had our usual communication with Our Hostess over the telephone before
+<a name="Page_217"></a>retiring, and received and gave satisfactory reports from both sides.</p>
+
+<p>A correspondent wishes to know if any of our readers can name the author
+of these lines:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Heaven gives sleep to the bad, in order that the good may be
+undisturbed.&quot; He would also like to know if this generally accepted
+quotation is quite correct, or whether the &quot;un&quot; is a misprint. Replies
+to &quot;O.G.,&quot; c/o THE TACURU.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the innumerable applications which we have received for
+advertising space in our widely circulated periodical, we have decided
+to open our columns to advertisements at the rate of 50 cents per line,
+applications to be sent to &quot;The Advertisement Editor,&quot; THE TACURU
+Offices, c/o The Jehu, First Coach. All orders must be prepaid.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>WANTED.&mdash;Bricklayers who can build straight.&mdash;Apply Manager, Michelot.</p>
+
+<p>RIDING TAUGHT by a lady, side-saddle or astride; fees go to
+Charity.&mdash;Apply &quot;T.S.,&quot; c/o TACURU Offices.</p>
+
+<p>BOOT CLEANING undertaken in best style. Gents', per pair, $1; Ladies',
+per pair, for the asking.&mdash;Orders received by &quot;T.C.,&quot; Offices of this
+Paper.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 3.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Monday, March 28th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<p>Owing to the care with which the mosquito nets had been put up, there
+were few complaints of bites when the party assembled for breakfast, but
+the conversation chiefly degenerated into an argument on phonetics. The
+different rooms held various views on the harmonizing of sounds. Had it
+been a glee competition we should undoubtedly have given the award to
+the verandah party. Sleeping on the bricks seems to bring out the
+sweetness of a treble voice as nothing else can do. The Saint and My
+Lady both remarked that they were very fond of music, but they could not
+appreciate being awakened from their beauty sleeps, by the announcement
+in a raucous voice of &quot;No, thank you.&quot; They do not wish for a moment to
+imply that The Kid was not perfectly justified in refusing whatever she
+did refuse, but they would like her in future to confine her
+conversations to the daytime if possible, and to leave their nights in
+peace. It was a happy thought on the part of The Jehu to suggest a
+picnic at the Waters Meet to-day, before our forward move on to Los
+Moyes, and after breakfast we started out. First we went to inspect the
+site where the new house is to be built, then on to the pretty little
+monte near by, where some picturesque photographs were taken of the
+cavalcade of riders. We paused in this tiny monte, for it is an
+intensely interesting spot from a botanical point of view, and with care
+and attention should be so for some years to come. In an extraordinary
+small compass this wood contains more varied specimens of trees than one
+would ordinarily see in a day's journey. So on to Waters Meet. Here one
+is afforded an opportunity for studying the watershed of this portion of
+Argentina. Three rivers meet here, <a name="Page_219"></a>the Concha, the Calchaqui, and the
+Northern Salado. The latter is the only perennial river in that region;
+it rises in the snowy peaks of the Andes, in the province of Salta,
+miles away, and it is not to be wondered at, that, though it is a
+slow-moving river and meanders through the Gran Chaco, in the times of
+floods its swollen waters overflow their banks and flood immense tracts
+of land. Thomas Page, an American Admiral, in the year 1855, navigated
+this river from its junction with the Parana to the spot where we were
+to-day, but when he went up it there was so little water in the river
+that he had to give up the idea of continuing his pioneer task of
+exploration. It had been his intention to open up the river for trade,
+and there is no reason why this should not be done at some future date.
+The Calchaqui goes under different names at various places. It rises on
+the great swamps on the North-East of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company's
+territory, and flows through a chain of lakes and ca&ntilde;adas until it runs
+into the huge laguna &quot;Del Palmar,&quot; and thence along what used to be the
+Eastern boundary of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company's lands, until it joins
+the Salado.</p>
+
+<p>The Calchaqui must drain at least 150,000 acres of land, and the Rio
+Concha has a watershed of about 60 or 70 thousand acres. It is not known
+what the area of the watershed of the Salado is, but it must be immense;
+therefore it can be understood that the meeting-place of the waters of
+these three rivers is an interesting spot geographically, and we were
+all glad to have seen it. On our arrival at the Water Meet we had our
+first introduction to the native &quot;asado,&quot; and we all hoped it would not
+be the last. The peons collected (apparently from nowhere), in less time
+than it takes to write about, sticks and odds and ends for a fire, over
+the ashes of which they broiled the <a name="Page_220"></a>meat, holding it over the heat on
+long skewers of wood. The meat was brought to us cooked, still on these
+skewers, and each one cut off, or had cut off for them by The Jehu, the
+portion he or she preferred, and a very hearty and merry meal was made
+by all. The resulting silence of repletion was only broken by a murmur
+from The Saint of &quot;My heart is full,&quot; which sentiment, anatomically
+amended, was echoed by all.</p>
+
+<a name="Expanse_of_Alfalfa"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image23.png" width="461" height="455" alt="Expanse of Alfalfa." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Expanse of Alfalfa.</h4>
+
+<p>When active exertion was once more possible everyone repaired to the
+banks of the Waters Meet, and a spot being found where there were no
+dead fish lying about, the ladies (under the tutorship of Our Guest and
+The Jehu) indulged in a little rifle-shooting at bottles. We fear that
+we cannot record any marvellous marksmanship on their part, for the
+bottles were still bobbing about on the water when the ladies' party
+retraced their steps to the &quot;camp.&quot; A cup of tea was suggested before
+the returning drive, and it was thought possible (though not probable)
+that The Kid might be useful on this occasion. However any hopes in this
+direction were speedily dispelled when (after a great deal of noise and
+talk) she appeared with a thick black liquid, which proved absolutely
+undrinkable. True it was poured from a tea-pot, but anything less like
+&quot;tea&quot; as one usually meets it at 5 o'clock, could scarcely be imagined,
+and the air seemed full of the unspoken query, &quot;Has everyone a use in
+this world?&quot; The drive back to the estancia house was as pleasant as
+that of the morning, and there we found the Chinaman (who, owing to the
+strenuous exertions of The Chaperon, now appeared with considerably less
+hair, and obviously a more swollen head), had gauged correctly the
+incompetency of The Kid, in the brewing of his native beverage, and
+consequently had prepared a beverage which might pass for tea, and was
+enjoyed by all. After this refreshment a move was made, the luggage had
+gone <a name="Page_221"></a>on, and the party followed in their two coaches. We now began to
+approach a more pleasing country, and drove through little montes of
+scrub and trees, with a few bright-coloured verbena and cacti growing
+near the ground, making a brave show, and that larger optunia, the
+prickly pear, with its silver grey appearance and the bright crimson of
+its fruit showed up occasionally against the low trees. Altogether, the
+land had a more homelike and less expansive appearance, as it was broken
+up by these little groups of trees. It was a glorious drive. We were
+favoured with another exquisite sunset which shed weird and beautiful
+light over this strangely quiet and empty country. As the four-horse
+char-&agrave;-banc had started some minutes ahead of the more modest two-horse
+vehicle, it was to be supposed that it would reach the destination, Los
+Moyes, first, and we hear that there was some consternation expressed by
+the party of the smaller coach when, on their arrival they found that
+nothing had been heard, or seen, of the more ambitious vehicle. However,
+The Chaperon on being appealed to, impassively murmured &quot;They're all
+right,&quot; and started to give orders for unloading, and putting up beds
+and generally arranging matters as if the section house belonged to him,
+and this callousness on his part, we are told, calmed the others
+sufficiently to allow of their enjoying the remnants of the sunset,
+undisturbed by any thoughts of the horrible fates which might (but were
+not likely to) have overtaken their companions.</p>
+
+<p>Certainly Los Moyes section house is most prettily situated, with an
+expanse of alfalfa beyond the little front garden, and trees in the
+distance opening to show a glimpse of the smallest lake. There are three
+of these lakes not far from the house, and fishing is carried on, by
+means of spearing, in their waters. Long after the last <a name="Page_222"></a>trace of sunset
+had faded from the sky, The Jehu appeared with his coach, and a rush was
+made by the hosts of Los Moyes, and their earlier arrivals, to ascertain
+the cause of this delay. All anxiety was quickly allayed by one glance
+at the face of The Instigator. He was exuberant with joy. The rest of
+the occupants of the coach seemed rather less excited, and more weary,
+as they explained that The Instigator had sighted in the far offing a
+steam plough, and despite murmurs of &quot;the dinner waits and we are tired&quot;
+from The Delineator and The Wild Man, he insisted on investigating that
+plough, in fact on trying it himself, and it was with difficulty he was
+persuaded to return to the coach, and continue the drive home. We
+believe the credit for this latter achievement is due to The Delineator,
+who, with tact worthy of a diplomat, suggested that if an early return
+to the ploughing were made next morning, photos could be obtained of the
+machine and its work. This bait was successful, and The Instigator was
+gently enticed away with promises of &quot;to-morrow.&quot;</p>
+
+<a name="Disc_Plough_at_Work"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image24.png" width="458" height="427" alt="Disc-Plough at Work." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Disc-Plough at Work.</h4>
+<a name="Roadmaker_and_Railroad_Builder"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image25.png" width="454" height="396" alt="Roadmaker and Railroad Builder." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Roadmaker and Railroad Builder.</h4>
+
+<p>After everyone was assured that everyone else was safe, The Instigator
+came back from his Elysium, dreamily to finish the quotation of The
+Delineator and The Wild Man with &quot;Said Gilpin, So am I,&quot; and we all sat
+down to dinner, during which meal much merriment was caused by a
+difference of opinion between The Saint and her host on &quot;dogs and
+species of dogs.&quot; Our enemies, the mosquitoes, were not so virulent as
+usual to-night, perhaps owing to the eucalyptus trees which are growing
+near the house; anyhow the party could venture to sit out after dinner
+on the verandah, which was already covered with beds for the
+accommodation of some of the party. Thus, with an audience seated on
+chairs and beds, The Instigator talked of the plough and of its
+marvellous work in opening up hitherto unused tracts of <a name="Page_223"></a>land. Want of
+labour has retarded development considerably, and until quite recently
+the northern camps were very much handicapped by the lack of labourers,
+and of men with brains to guide the labour. Not only was there a
+deficiency of men, but often so many of the working bullocks were
+drafted off to the forests for timber haulage, that it left a sparseness
+of them for agricultural purposes. The remedy, however, presented itself
+by the utilisation of the traction engine. The breaking-up of fresh
+lands has always been the trouble facing the colonist.</p>
+
+<p>In dry weather it is almost impossible to get the plough, drawn by horse
+or bullock, into the ground, and the drought so punishes the working
+animals that often when rain comes they are too weak for their work, and
+the colonist is unable to take the best advantage of the season, but
+mechanical ploughing obviates all this, and gives him the virgin land in
+such a condition that with the means at hand he is able to cultivate an
+area sufficiently large to ensure him success.</p>
+
+<p>As we sat thus on the verandah in the moonlight, plans were made for the
+following day. It was decided that a visit to the plough should occupy
+the morning, and a row on the lake, or ride round it, the afternoon,
+before proceeding to Lucero. Fishing was spoken of, but we could not
+manage everything in the short time we had at our disposal at Los Moyes,
+so we found that probably the fishing would have to be given up. Thus,
+in the security of the possession of clear consciences and mosquito
+nets, the party retired to rest.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Prepaid advertisements received at the office of this paper before 6
+p.m. will be inserted in the next day's issue.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;M.L.&quot; writes in answer to &quot;O.G.&quot; that the quotation he gives is from
+the writing of the Persian poet S&acirc;di. The quotation is quite correct,
+for though S&acirc;di travelled for a <a name="Page_224"></a>great number of years in Europe, Asia,
+and Africa, he never travelled with the present Company in the
+Argentine, therefore he did not realise that the sleep of the bad could
+disturb the good. Modern thought is inclined to differ from his views.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;Two rubber sponges and two blankets. When finished with, please
+return to the Manager, Michelot.</p>
+
+<p>&pound;10 REWARD.&mdash;Lost, one pearl-drop ear-ring; may be under the carpet.
+Finder will be rewarded as above, on returning same to &quot;T.S.,&quot; Offices
+of this Paper.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 65%;' />
+
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 4.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Tuesday, March 29th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<p>This morning, alas! did not fulfil the promise of last night's sunset,
+for a drizzling rain was falling when the party collected for breakfast,
+and we were afraid that not only would the fishing expedition be
+impossible, but also that the ploughing inspection might have to be
+postponed, and all were anxious, after the enthusiasm of The Instigator,
+to see that engine at work. Our host had sent some men out in the early
+morning to secure fish for our delectation, but they were unable to
+spear more than one, and this large aquatic animal was now hanging up
+under the verandah, causing a great deal of interest to the various
+curious members of the band; needless to say, The Instigator was busy
+divesting the fish of scales, examining them under his ubiquitous
+microscope, and insisting on everyone <a name="Page_225"></a>observing the marvels of Nature
+shown in this manner. We think that this was the psychological moment
+when the rest of the party began to appreciate the powers of that
+microscope, and insinuations were made to the owner that it would be a
+pity to take such a beautiful pocket instrument back to Europe, in case
+any accident should happen to the boat during the voyage, and the
+microscope be lost.</p>
+
+<p>The Delineator and The Wild Man appeared to be the chief favourites for
+the prize, and knowing the acquisitive propensities of The Chaperon, all
+were surprised to note his passiveness during the competition; however,
+he explained his inertia by saying that his sleep had been disturbed by
+visions for which no microscope was needed. He offered to sketch what he
+had seen, but could give no more definite description in words than
+&quot;figures on the blind&quot; and &quot;streaming hair,&quot; so he was left alone to
+recover his nerve. The Jehu then pointed out that his prophecy had
+proved correct, and the misty rain had blown off, leaving a clear sky
+and fine weather, so a start was made <i>en masse</i> for the scene of the
+ploughing operations. A slight lameness on the part of one of the steeds
+made it necessary for the smaller coach to return for change of animals
+after a few hundred yards. The Wild Man occupied the few minutes of this
+delay to the best possible advantage. The owner of the house and
+chattels was away, and The Wild Man, stimulated by The Chaperon made a
+very productive tour of the rooms and verandah, resulting in great
+satisfaction to himself.</p>
+
+<p>When the coach was ready with fresh horses, and The Wild Man had
+satisfied himself that nothing of value had escaped his observation,
+another move forward was made, and on arriving at the ground the smaller
+party found that the occupants of the first coach were already on the
+plough, having ousted the colonists for the time <a name="Page_226"></a>being. This plough was
+working on rough virgin ground, turning over more land in one hour than
+two men and four horses can do in England in a whole day. Each member of
+the party took their turn on the plough, and enjoyed the pleasure
+derived from turning over the untouched soil, and of feeling that they
+were helping to start the development of Nature's truest source of
+wealth. The engine was drawing twenty disc-ploughs, and could plough
+twenty-eight to thirty acres of land a day, week in and week out.</p>
+
+<p>Until recent years land in the Argentine Republic has been ploughed in
+small areas by animal labour, the farmer or colonist often employing the
+members of his family to assist him, and thus saving expense. Owing,
+however, to the immense harvests and the vast tracts of country awaiting
+development, it has become necessary to work on a much bigger scale, and
+to bring in the aid of machinery. In some places the ordinary form of
+steam plough has presented many practical disadvantages. They are heavy
+and unwieldy, and apt to sink in soft ground, from which they are
+extricated with difficulty. This is likely to cause damage, or more
+serious accidents, through explosion. Further, they require a constant
+train of water-carts and fuel wagons, and a staff of at least six
+persons to work them. At the spot where this engine was working the
+latter objections were obviated, as both wood and water were plentiful.
+In general, these difficulties are largely overcome by the adoption of
+the naphtha motor engine, which has been brought to a state of
+considerable perfection in Great Britain and the United States. It can
+be employed not only for ploughing and threshing, but also for traction,
+excavation, and embankment work, etc. An engine and plough will break up
+one hectarea of camp per hour, and some of these machines with two
+relays of workmen will <a name="Page_227"></a>break 108 hectareas per week. In a month of only
+twenty-three working days they will break up a league of camp.</p>
+
+<a name="Ploughing_Virgin_Camp"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image26.png" width="458" height="393" alt="Ploughing Virgin Camp." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Ploughing Virgin Camp.</h4>
+
+<p>The price of naphtha is gradually decreasing in the Argentine Republic,
+and the oil wells of the country will probably make the cost of fuel
+even less by-and-by than it is to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Areas of fertile camp, which have hitherto lain fallow, owing to their
+being intersected by canadas, and difficult to get at, can now be
+treated by the motor plough, with the result that their value will
+rapidly rise. In an actual case near the Central Cordoba Railway, people
+are to-day offering $118 per hectarea for land which was bought two
+years ago for $25 per hectarea, but during the two years it has been
+thoroughly ploughed and drained by mechanical means.</p>
+
+<p>In nearly all the northern lands small trees grow irregularly all over
+the camp, and in order to plough the land these trees must be dug up.
+Machines are manufactured in the United States to deal with land
+containing tree roots. They perform the double operation of cutting
+roots under ground and ploughing up the surface, but they have not yet
+been introduced into the Argentine in large numbers. Other machines dig
+holes for fence posts at the rate of fifty holes per hour, and they can
+be so accurately gauged that the posts may be firmly fixed without
+expending much labour in ramming.</p>
+
+<p>The naphtha engine is likewise used with great advantage for traction
+purposes. A striking instance of this is to be found at Rio Gallegos,
+where many naphtha engines are engaged in the work of carrying wool over
+a track of more than 300 kilometres, a feat which would be quite
+impossible with animal labour, owing to the rocky and broken condition
+of the roads.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_228"></a>As the Santa F&eacute; Land Company owns a great diversity of land, they have
+used both the steam traction and the naphtha engines, and time will show
+which machine is to be recommended.</p>
+
+<p>It is a pity that the agricultural implement importers of Buenos Aires
+should have recently formed themselves into a ring to lift prices,
+because their doing so will certainly tend to lessen the progress which
+agriculture is making in the Argentine. These combinations, however,
+will not deter the Company from continuing its &quot;march of progress,&quot; but
+it comes hard on the colonist, who, after all, is the chief factor in
+building up the fortunes of the great importing houses of Buenos Aires.</p>
+
+<p>One of the greatest competitors of the British-built traction engine is
+the Hart-Parr oil engine, a splendid agricultural tool, which is
+invaluable where ordinary fuel is not easily procurable.</p>
+
+<p>It was with great difficulty The Instigator could be persuaded to leave
+the plough, and at one time his enthusiasm (and the engine) carried him
+out of sight, and those remaining at the starting-point grew speculative
+as to whether he would return before dark. However, a recommencement of
+drizzling rain apparently cooled his ardour, and restored him to the
+party. The nomads gladly turned their thoughts and coaches towards the
+section house, realising as they went the sweet truth of the words, &quot;The
+ploughman homeward plods his weary way.&quot; Lunch awaited them, and the
+fish of the morning appeared in a more pleasant guise, to be enjoyed by
+all. After lunch, the rain showing no signs of clearing off, the party
+had to give up all idea of the lake proper, but watched one form in
+front of the house instead, and wondered how it would be negotiated when
+the time came for an onward move. So they sat on chairs, baggage and
+benches under the verandah, and tried <a name="Page_229"></a>to keep awake, while observing
+the steady downpour. One member of the party at last gave up the
+struggle against the inevitable, and sank gracefully into the arms of
+Morpheus, represented by the bags of biscuits and other impedimenta. A
+photo was secured of him as he lay half concealed amongst the
+portmanteaux, packages and &quot;pan.&quot; We refrain from publishing it, because
+the chief feature of the picture is in the boots of the sleeper. (We
+trust no weak humour is intended in the preceding paragraph?&mdash;EDITOR.)</p>
+
+<a name="Hart_Parr_Engine_drawing_Roadmaker"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image27.png" width="462" height="380" alt="Hart-Parr Engine, drawing Roadmaker." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Hart-Parr Engine, drawing Roadmaker.</h4>
+
+<p>A slight diversion was caused by a repacking of some goods after lunch.
+It seems that the bottles, with contents (a most important item), had
+been forgotten, and The Wild Man was approached with a request that the
+bottles might be transported to Lucero in his bag; of course, he
+cheerily acquiesced, but as the whole of the contents of his bag had to
+be turned out to pack the bottles scientifically, and as that bag
+happened to be the same receptacle in which The Wild Man had secreted
+the various articles collected during his tour of appreciation this
+morning, developments were interesting to all, save to the man who had
+laboured under the delusion that several horns and other articles which
+appeared from the bag, were still in his own possession. However,
+probably remembering The Wild Man's character (<i>vide</i> page 205), he said
+nothing, but calmly looked on as his goods were repacked and removed
+from his sight for ever. All honour to such unselfishness.</p>
+
+<p>After a cup of tea and farewells, the ladies were transferred to the
+coaches in a highly skilled manner, and a damp drive to Lucero followed.
+One sheet of drizzling rain surrounded us all through the journey, and
+none were sorry when, after a side slip or two, the coaches drew up (not
+before it was quite dark) outside the estancia house. A change into dry
+garments was very welcome, and there was to be noticed for the first
+time since the start <a name="Page_230"></a>of the Tacuruers, a dull air of respectability
+over the party, as they collected for their evening meal.</p>
+
+<p>Shirt fronts and pretty frocks appeared once more, for here we had a
+lady presiding over the table. Still the old proverb proved true &quot;Fine
+feathers do not make fine birds,&quot; and some members of the party did not
+live up to their costumes. It may have been the good dinner, or the
+genial glow of a fire that upset their behaviour, but the fact remains
+that there were two or three unusual occurrences during the course of a
+merry meal. The Kid was observed to be burying her face in a spoonful of
+jelly, and others seemed to be performing a sort of a general post
+during the repast. However, all ended well, and after coffee various
+home pets were introduced by our hostess, who is a devoted lover of
+animals. A nutria appeared and some friendly dogs, and we heard of tame
+foxes and diminutive ponies to be seen next day. It was a great regret
+to everyone that The Delineator did not put in an appearance for dinner;
+he pleaded headache and retired to bed early, perhaps in the hope of
+getting some sleep before The Instigator came to share the room.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>HARD CASE NO. 1.&mdash;&quot;T.K.&quot; writes to inquire the proper procedure under
+the following circumstances:&mdash;&quot;A lady receives a plate of jelly at
+dinner, the gentleman on her right at once takes up her spoon and
+commences to feed her with the jelly.&quot; What should she do? And if she
+allows herself to be fed, is it etiquette, this year, for the gentleman
+on her left to give her a slight push, which results in her nose meeting
+the jelly in the spoon? We offer the problems to our readers, and a
+prize will be awarded for the best solution sent in.</p><a name="Page_231"></a>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;One pair deer's horns, nicely coloured. If this advertisement
+meets the eye of T.W.M. the owner would be very glad to have the horns
+returned to Michelot, but does not wish to make a point of it.</p>
+
+<p>FOUND.&mdash;The reward of &pound;10 for lost ear-ring is withdrawn; owner found
+lost property herself, and has paid for her advertisement.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 5.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Wednesday, March 30th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+
+<p>Much to everyone's relief The Delineator appeared at breakfast looking
+himself again; he replied to the enquiries showered upon him that his
+indisposition could be explained in the words used by Herbert Spencer,
+when he defined life as &quot;The continuous adjustment of internal relations
+to external relations.&quot; The Delineator said that that formula, when one
+considered the various cookings, including the Oriental style we had
+lately sampled, exactly described the cause of his passing illness, from
+which he was now happily recovered.</p>
+
+<p>The morning was bright, and nothing but the drying mud remained to
+remind us of the rains of yesterday. At breakfast some strange tales
+were told of a frightened nutria which generally slept peacefully under
+a wardrobe in the dressing-room; but last night the room had another
+occupant, whose sleep was not so peaceful as that of the nutria, and at
+the first sound of a snore the poor animal was so scared that it leapt
+from its usual bed and rushed round the room till it found a way of
+escape, through the window, to a more restful soot.</p><a name="Page_232"></a>
+
+<p>Cattle-dipping was to be the sight of the morning, and as soon as the
+out-door menagerie was explored, under the guidance of our hostess, who
+has a wonderful knack with all animals, the coach and cavalcade of
+riders set forth to the scene of operations. Here we found a large
+number of animals ready to be dipped. This process is necessary to clean
+the animals from the garrapata. This is a tick which has been, and still
+is, the terror of the north. It is the means of transmitting to cattle
+the disease known as &quot;Texas Fever.&quot; The rough native cattle do not
+suffer badly from this fever, but any newly imported fine stock from the
+south generally succumb to it.</p>
+
+<p>Time after time wealthy men who realized the menace this pest was to the
+north have attempted to fight it, but their efforts have not been
+successful. Often their loss has been immense, sometimes as many as 95%
+of the total animals brought into the neighbourhood from the Province of
+Buenos Aires have died.</p>
+
+<p>Undoubtedly these constant failures helped to give the northern district
+a bad name, but the experiments with the animals should have been
+carried on by means of acclimatisation. Animals for the north should be
+carefully handled, and with constant vigilance, adapted to their
+surroundings. These are the principles on which the Santa F&eacute; Land
+Company have been working, and they confidently predict that before long
+they will be selling pedigree bulls with tick on them. When this is an
+accomplished fact, another great barrier to the progress of the north
+will have been broken down.</p>
+
+
+<a name="Cattle_leaving_Dip"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image28.png" width="460" height="453" alt="Cattle leaving Dip." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Cattle leaving Dip.</h4>
+
+<p>The cattle tick has two phases in its life.</p>
+
+<p>After establishing itself on the animal, the tick becomes a blood
+sucker, and at certain seasons animals running wild over unbroken camps,
+become literally covered with these bichos; consequently the cattle fall
+back in condition, and <a name="Page_233"></a>the mortality amongst them mounts up to an
+appallingly large percentage. To obviate this the dip is used, and has
+come into general use. The animals are collected from afar, and brought
+into the corral (a strong enclosure), from which there is a wooden
+passage, having many contrivances useful for marking, branding, and
+dehorning cattle, all of which are used in their due season; but for
+dipping purposes this passage terminates in a precipitous slope, and the
+animals are gently forced along it from the corral to plunge suddenly
+into a prepared bath of a strong solution, which kills every tick; so it
+follows, that if the animal has been totally submerged, it is absolutely
+free from the parasite. The object of dipping is to kill all kinds of
+insects and parasites which trouble the bovine race; especially so the
+common Louse (the Dermatodectis Bovis) which is the scab producer. The
+worst pest is, however, the cattle tick or Garrapata, and known under
+the scientific name of Boophilus Annulatus.</p>
+
+<p>This latter is the harbinger of the microbe of Texas Fever or Tristeza,
+as it is known in the Argentine.</p>
+
+<p>The remedies that are principally employed are of a tarry basis and
+prepared so as to be easily mixed with water, usually in the proportion
+of 1 to 100.</p>
+
+<p>The amount of mixture used is 2.60 litres, and the cost works out at 10
+cents. per head.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest number of animals that the Santa F&eacute; Land Company have been
+able to put through the dip in a day is 6,700, working from 6 a.m. to 5
+p.m.</p>
+
+<p>Animals certainly are frightened the first time they take this bath, but
+very soon they find the comfort of its effect, and come to like and
+enjoy it. The cattle we saw dipped to-day had mostly been through the
+process several times before, and walked calmly down the passage,
+seeming to enjoy their scramble through the dip. On emerging from <a name="Page_234"></a>the
+dip, the animals stand in a small corral on the other side, and are kept
+there for a while to allow the liquor to drain off their hides, and find
+its way back to the tank.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the younger animals seemed scared at the first plunge, and
+though a very great point is made of the fact that they must all be
+collected and driven into the corral and down the passage, with the
+utmost gentleness, some of them grew so disturbed at the unusual
+proceeding, that they leapt on to the animal in front instead of sliding
+down the dip as the older animals do. However, there are always plenty
+of men under the superintendence of the mayor-domo to see that no harm
+comes to any animal, and though in the early days of dips, broken legs
+were not unusual occurrences, nowadays there are very seldom any
+accidents, though thousands of animals may be dipped in a few hours. One
+man holds a curious sort of wide blunt prong, with which he presses the
+heads of any animals, who have not been totally immersed, under the
+liquid as they pass him, thus ensuring the destruction of all parasites.</p>
+
+<p>After this inspection The Instigator and company were taken on to see
+land which was being broken by bullocks, and thence to the Rio Salado,
+(which we are hoping to negotiate much further north to-morrow), and
+returned in time for lunch. After a short pause for rest and a cup of
+tea, the party, this time with their host and hostess, set off for
+various windmills, earth tanks, etc., which were of recent erection, and
+were to be reviewed by The Instigator. Everything he saw seemed to give
+satisfaction, and a weary but happy band returned to the house for
+dinner, in the course of which some native dishes were introduced to us.</p>
+
+<p>Another lovely sunset favoured us this evening as we drove homewards,
+and we hear that My Lady and The Wild Man almost came to a serious
+quarrel over the shapes of various beautifully tinted clouds. One said a
+certain <a name="Page_235"></a>cloud resembled a bear, the other said it was exactly like a
+pork pie &quot;shot&quot; with a diamond tiara, and the matter was still under
+bitter discussion long after the cloud in question had faded away into a
+nebulous mist. The evening was calm and still, and we all sat outside
+after coffee, discussing the unknown journey of to-morrow, and the
+perils that might befall us on our way across the camps. The Instigator
+talked emphatically, and quite unnecessarily, of &quot;an early start is
+imperative,&quot; till we all grew tired of his insistence and retired to
+bed, where some of the party wondered under what circumstances they
+would be sleeping to-morrow.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>CORRESPONDENCE.</h4>
+
+<blockquote><p>LUCERO, <i>March 30th, 1910.</i> DEAR SIR,</p>
+
+<p>     May I use the valuable medium of your paper for the purpose of
+     announcing that anyone who wishes to accompany the explorers on the
+     excursion, under the guidance of The Jehu and myself to the wild
+     north, must be ready, decently clothed and fed, with a supply of
+     patience and drinkables in their personal luggage, not later than 6
+     a.m., to-morrow, March 31st, 1910.</p>
+
+<p>     I am, Yours, etc., THE INSTIGATOR.</p>
+
+<p>     P.S.&mdash;While taking suitable precautions for the safety and
+     happiness of those who entrust themselves to our care, we wish it
+     to be understood that we cannot hold ourselves responsible for any
+     loss of wearing apparel or other goods, temper, meals, or rest,
+     caused by rain, mosquitoes, frogs, snakes, overeating, or the
+     incompatibility of other passengers, or from any cause
+     whatsoever.&mdash;T.I.</p></blockquote><a name="Page_236"></a>
+
+<blockquote><p><i>To the Editor of &quot;The Tacuru.&quot;</i></p>
+
+<p>     <i>March 30th, 1910</i>.</p>
+
+<p>     SIR,</p>
+
+<p>     We should be glad to know if anything can be done to stop the
+     public nuisance in the shape of the amalgamation of two members of
+     the party, who are obviously descended from some long ago Christy
+     Minstrels. We believe that, taken separately, one at a time, at
+     long intervals, the aforesaid members can be tolerated for a few
+     minutes (personally, we find them nauseating to a degree, under the
+     most favourable circumstances), but together, when they attempt to
+     be bright and amusing, and fancy they have a sense of humour and
+     intelligent wit, they are absolutely impossible. They might have
+     been useful (say in 1500) as the final torture decreed by the
+     Inquisition, but in this year of grace of 1910, they are
+     unwarrantable, and we shall be grateful if immediate steps can be
+     taken for their separation, if not for their entire suppression. We
+     are, Dear Sir, still suffering from violent headaches, caused by
+     being shut up in the same coach for three hours with these
+     imbeciles.</p>
+
+<p>     Yours truly,</p>
+
+<p>     T.D. and M.L.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>HARD CASE No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>The prize of five cents has been awarded to a correspondent O.G. (who is
+requested to forward his real name and address as soon as possible) for
+the best solution to the Hard Case we published yesterday. He says that
+in those circumstances the lady should undoubtedly allow herself to be
+fed, and should do all in her power by opening her mouth widely, and
+turning her head slightly in the direction of the gentleman on her
+right, to assist him in his self-imposed <a name="Page_237"></a>task, and thus to avoid giving
+him the impression that he had committed an unusual social solecism in
+commencing to feed her.</p>
+
+<p>Numerous correspondents have sent in solutions, but we consider the
+above the best. Several answers have also been sent to the second part
+of the question, and all agree that the gentleman on the left had no
+shadow of excuse for causing the lady's nose to rest in the jelly. Such
+a proceeding is totally without precedent in the highest circles.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 65%;' />
+
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 6.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Thursday, March 31st, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<h5>THE LARGEST CIRCULATION OF ANY DAILY PAPER PUBLISHED ON THIS TRIP.</h5>
+
+<p>Everyone was astir early this morning, remembering The Instigator's
+final warning last night of the necessity for an early start, but, on
+assembling for breakfast at 7 a.m., The Instigator himself was missed.
+His hawk-like eye (we apologise to Our Guest) had noticed some Galpon,
+or drinking trough, or something, which he must, of course, investigate
+before leaving Lucero, and dragging off The Delineator and The Jehu, he
+quite forgot breakfast and the &quot;early start,&quot; as he fussed over his
+new-found interest, and it was not until he was captured forcibly by a
+search party that his companions were allowed to come in to
+breakfast&mdash;after the rest of the party had finished. Much to everyone's
+delight the morning was bright and fine, and all promised favourably for
+the excursion into the unknown.</p><a name="Page_238"></a>
+
+<p>While waiting for the start, considerable interest was caused by the
+home-building operations of some birds, who were constructing a nest
+under the eaves of the outbuilding, and manipulating the mud for its
+construction in a most clever manner. One bird flew off to get some mud
+while the other energetically fashioned the last piece into shape in the
+nest, then, when the first returned, the second bird flew off to get her
+contribution of clay; so the moulding of that nest grew apace while we
+watched its progress.</p>
+
+<p>Before we set out a pleading message came (and it was not the first,
+either) from those left at headquarters, begging us to give up our
+exploration scheme, and, in view of weather reports, to return in peace
+to the civilisation of San Cristobal; but needless to say, nothing
+daunted, The Instigator still kept to his determination to see all there
+was to be seen, and the more people try to dissuade him from a thing,
+once he has decided to do it, the more fixed becomes his intention to do
+that thing. So, expostulations were useless, the final preparations and
+farewells were made, a last communication held with Our Hostess at
+Cristobal, before our passing into the wilds, and the Tacuru coaches
+with their freight of precious humans, and still more precious food and
+drink, started off from their pleasant rest at Lucero. Someone was heard
+to murmur as the coaches drove off&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;Then hey! for boot and horse, lad,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And round the world away;<br /></span>
+<span>The Instigator <i>must</i> have his tour, lad,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And <i>never</i> will give way!&quot;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But this puerile parody met with the indifference it deserved, and,
+accompanied by the Section Manager, we commenced our journey, travelling
+for some hours over the land which is in his charge. &quot;Monte,&quot; too,
+seemed to consider that his <a name="Page_239"></a>presence as a guide and friend would be
+necessary to the party, and came along with us; he is a &quot;wild&quot; dog of
+the deerhound type, who was taken as a tiny puppy from a litter found in
+a wood near Los Moyes, and has ever since been devoted to his captors.
+There is a calm air of disinterested abstraction about &quot;Monte&quot; which is
+very satisfying, and he is undoubtedly a philosopher. One of the two
+Indian guides we picked up during the day's journey also had a dog, but
+it was of a very different appearance and character to &quot;Monte.&quot; &quot;Monte&quot;
+looked on mankind in general as needing his care and supervision, while
+the little black smooth-haired terrier felt &quot;the great passion&quot; for one
+alone. His master was evidently his god, and if he lost sight of
+&quot;master&quot; for two minutes it was really touching to hear his cries,
+almost like those of a child, as he tried to trace his master through
+the shallow water which we sometimes crossed.</p>
+
+<p>His yelps as he splashed along, nose to the ground, almost voiced the
+sentiment:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;Rank and wealth I pass unheeding,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Never giving them their due;<br /></span>
+<span>For my heart and soul are needing,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Nothing in the world but &quot;YOU!&quot;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And he and his &quot;YOU&quot; were never very far apart.</p>
+
+<p>In a country where kindness to animals is not considered necessary, and
+is very rarely found, this example of devotion between dog and man was
+all the more noticeable and appreciated. Needless to say, as soon as The
+Saint observed it she wanted to &quot;give the man a present,&quot; and was only
+restrained from doing so because she had nothing suitable for
+presentation in her luggage, or in that of The Instigator.</p>
+
+<p>About one o'clock we came to the banks of the Salado, concerning the
+crossing of which river we had heard so <a name="Page_240"></a>much. We had been told it was
+impossible and impassable; that the rains had swollen the river too much
+for a safe passage; that at the best of times the banks were too steep
+and slippery for carts to negotiate, and that all idea of crossing had
+better be given up. The Instigator and The Jehu merely smiled when they
+heard of these difficulties, but some members of the party had wondered
+how the traversing of that river was to be accomplished, and they were
+agreeably surprised, on reaching the spot chosen for crossing, to find
+that a tenant had built a narrow &quot;tajamar,&quot; or earth bank, across the
+river, which at this place was not very wide. Everyone dismounted, the
+horses were taken out, and all hands were in request to pull the
+vehicles across. First went the coaches, then the luggage carts were
+dragged over. To illustrate the difficulties of the proceedings we
+publish one of the many photos taken, during the crossing of the
+tajamar. Our Guest was one of the first to help in the conveyance of
+these carts. Apparently, since the gate-opening episode, he has &quot;learnt
+the wisdom early to discern true beauty in utility,&quot; for he is always to
+the fore when work is to be done, and in this case his athletic training
+proved the truth of the Yankee expression that &quot;It's muscle that tells.&quot;
+The Delineator and The Wild Man, as usual, when real hard work presents
+itself, &quot;thought the party would like photographs of it,&quot; and, armed
+with their cameras, retired to safe distances, where the work could not
+possibly interfere with them or they with it, and took photos of the
+progress of the carts. We cannot complain, however, of their action (or
+inaction, rather), for the resulting pictures make a good memorial of
+the crossing of the Salado by the &quot;Tacuruers.&quot; The ladies rushed to
+assist when they saw that photos were being taken, but, as the carts
+were well over the danger line by the time the ladies <a name="Page_241"></a>were at the
+ropes, we have no pictured record of their deeds, which, we may note,
+were really quite valueless at this point.</p>
+
+<a name="Crossing_the_Salado"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image29.png" width="465" height="421" alt="Crossing the Salado." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Crossing the Salado.</h4>
+
+<a name="The_Effect_of_a_Long_Drought"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image30.png" width="468" height="458" alt="The Effect of a Long Drought." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>The Effect of a Long Drought.</h4>
+
+<p>Once the horses, carts, and luggage were safely across the tajamar the
+more serious business of cocktails and lunch was thought of, and, in an
+incredibly short time, the usual asado of meat, brought from Lucero, was
+under discussion.</p>
+
+<p>The unfortunate sheep who were still spared were let out for a short
+run.</p>
+
+<p>The Kid, too, was set free in the hopes that she might possibly prove
+useful now, but, judging from her attitude during the preparations for
+lunch, we should say those hopes would not be fulfilled.</p>
+
+<p>As we rest after our arduous crossing of the Salado, our thoughts are
+inclined to wander to the awful tragedy enacted here in the year 1904.
+It was a disastrous year for many of the northern camp men. There was an
+appalling drought of long continuation, for which all the northern camps
+were totally unprepared; the river over which we have just passed became
+the concentration spot for all that is most terrible at such times. It
+is not exaggerating the case when we say that 15,000 animals (some of
+them having travelled south for 100 miles or more), forced by instinct,
+and guided by wire fences, came to drink from the foul, polluted chain
+of water-holes which then represented this river. One can imagine the
+horror and distress of it all&mdash;not a blade of grass for miles, where
+to-day the vegetation is luxuriant, and not a drop of water in this
+river on whose banks we are resting, only a few mud-holes in which
+hundreds of decaying carcases were embedded. This is what the cattle
+found after their long journey south, through which they were daily
+growing weaker. It is not surprising to hear that, at one place <a name="Page_242"></a>alone
+on the river-bed, over 3,000 hides were taken off dead animals, and,
+probably, it is well within the mark to say that at least another 1,000
+were lost. Well may we wonder, &quot;Why this terrible suffering and loss?&quot;
+And the answer comes back, &quot;Human negligence.&quot; It was the want of wells
+which caused all this misery; cattle will bear drought for a long time,
+but the actual want of water maddens them and causes the death of
+thousands. If the northern camps are to be colonised and are to become
+prosperous, the first necessity is the obtaining of a supply of good
+water; second in importance only to the water supply is the fencing of
+the camps, by which means a control over the cattle is established;
+refined camps, better grasses, and alfalfa, will all follow in due
+course; and anyone who has studied these northern lands would have no
+hesitation in predicting that these camps will, in time, prove just as
+profitable as any in the vast Republic of Argentina, and this is saying
+a good deal, as those who have travelled over the rich southern camps
+will realise. But, for his own sake, and for the sake of the cattle in
+his care, let it be the first business of the estanciero to provide good
+and sufficient wells, so that the terrible history of 1904 may never be
+repeated.</p>
+
+<a name="Refined_Camps"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image31.png" width="458" height="462" alt="Refined Camps." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Refined Camps.</h4>
+
+<p>However, the scene is different to-day, with a pleasant sunshine, the
+crisp air sweeping over the uncultivated camp of natural grasses, and
+plenty of water in the river; but we cannot linger, so, after the pipe
+of peace for some, and a short siesta for others, &quot;the all-aboard&quot; bugle
+was sounded, horses were put in, carts packed once more, and, after a
+farewell to our host&mdash;who was returning to the section house&mdash;we went on
+ahead into the wilder regions, and had a pleasant, though rather short,
+drive for two or three hours before The Jehu called a halt. He explained
+that <a name="Page_243"></a>we should require at least an hour for the unloading and erection
+of the tents, tables, etc., before dusk; therefore, as the sun was only
+a hand's breadth from the horizon (roughly speaking, an hour before
+setting), we must dismount. He had chosen a pleasant spot for the camp
+of the night, not far from a small ranch, and here the coaches halted.
+Of course the luggage carts could not come up until some time later, as
+their loads were so much heavier, and My Lady became even more popular
+than usual when she suggested that the wait should be beguiled with a
+cup of tea, and produced her tea-basket from the coach; true, we found
+that there was no tea, but My Lady had plenty of cocoa. Water was
+obtained from the house near by, and a very welcome cup of cocoa handed
+round, accompanied by an unexpected slice of cake which apparently
+appeared from nowhere, and which disappeared equally effectively, for it
+was decidedly useful fodder and appreciated as such by all.</p>
+
+<p>We discovered here that our friend &quot;Monte&quot; had declined to go back after
+lunch with his present master to Lucero, but had chosen to accompany his
+past master on this expedition. His presence was an agreeable surprise.
+He was found surveying the party with his calm scrutiny, and apparently
+he approved of our spot for camping, also of the cake.</p>
+
+<p>As The Chaperon could find no work to do before the carts arrived, he,
+for once, relaxed from his terrible strain of usefulness, and tided over
+the tedious hour by trying to &quot;throw the knife&quot; in the most approved
+cowboy manner. As each member of the party had had their &quot;tea&quot; (he was
+practising with the knife which was used for the carving of the
+cake&mdash;and anything else, when needed), no one objected to this harmless
+amusement on his part, provided he did not pitch the knife on to their
+toes; and, after long exercise, <a name="Page_244"></a>with the help of The Wild Man, who is
+an adept at these tricks, The Chaperon at last succeeded in &quot;throwing
+the knife&quot; to his satisfaction, and others' terror. A sigh of relief
+escaped the lips of those who were dodging the knife when they saw the
+luggage-carts looming in the distance. They at once drew the attention
+of The Chaperon to the approach of the carts, and were rejoiced to see
+him return the weapon to its sheath (in his leggings), and stiffen into
+the attitude of action once more.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner were the carts on the spot than every member of the party was
+at work, or pretending to be so. Poles were taken off the carts, luggage
+uncovered, canvas was everywhere, yells for &quot;the mallet&quot; alternated with
+the resounding blows struck, with the same, by the strong men of the
+band, tent-pegs bristled all over the ground, everyone wanted the hammer
+at the same time, and apparent chaos reigned for half an hour; then,
+behold! as by magic, the din ceased, two tents had been securely
+erected, floored with canvas, the luggage was placed under another
+covering of canvas, a table, with plates, knives, forks, etc., was ready
+in an open space, camp-stools stood around it, beds, blankets, sheets
+and pillows galore were in each tent, and the smell of roasting meat in
+the distance rose pleasantly upon the air. The place looked as if the
+party had been accustomed to camp there regularly once a week, so well
+was everything arranged. Nothing had been forgotten which could add
+comfort, for all hands had been working hard, and each peon, too, had
+done his share; in fact, the sight would have rejoiced the soul of the
+most ardent, red-tied Socialist, for surely never did a community carry
+out more thoroughly the principle of &quot;each one working for the happiness
+of others.&quot; True, there was no trade union to limit their exertions, but
+that was an omission for which we may be thankful.</p><a name="Page_245"></a>
+
+<p>As the dusk quickly deepened, the peons gathered round their fire, over
+which the meat was cooking, a little distance from the camp site; the
+lamps were lit and hung from poles, and the party looked with
+satisfaction on their handiwork. It would have made an interesting, and
+not unpicturesque illustration, if one could have obtained a photo of
+the &quot;Primera Vista&quot; camp that evening.</p>
+
+<p>But it was at this time, just when all seemed smiling and happy, that
+the travellers were to go through their first real trial, for here the
+discovery was made of a serious loss. It was spoken of in whispers at
+first, but gradually the whispers increased to a murmur as the loss
+became generally known; yet neither man nor woman quailed, and none
+could have told from their outward bearing the bitter struggle they were
+inwardly facing. A cynical traveller once said, after noting the
+innumerable number of statues in the land, &quot;South America has evidently
+produced a phenomenal number of heroes,&quot; but we are inclined to think
+their tale has not been told if those who bore their trouble so bravely
+that night are to be &quot;unhonoured and unsung.&quot; Think what it meant, you
+who may read this, in years to come, in civilised places, comfortably
+seated in your armchairs, conveniently near the cellaret, and,&mdash;honour
+our brave! They had at least two days to face (with no prospect of
+obtaining supplies anywhere) and they discovered, here, that <i>the case
+of whisky was lost,</i> left behind, vanished&mdash;they knew not what, only
+that it had disappeared!</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>Theirs not to reason why,<br /></span>
+<span>Theirs not to moan or sigh,<br /></span>
+<span>E'en though their throats were dry,<br /></span>
+<span class="i8">Noble &quot;Tacuruers&quot;!<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>True, the comforting thought that they still had a bottle and a-half of
+the precious drink with them may have helped them to keep their spirits
+up with the hope of pouring <a name="Page_246"></a>spirits down, but a bottle and a-half is
+not much amongst so many thirsty souls for three days, and, we repeat,
+that great courage and bravery was shown by the equanimity with which
+the party bore the news of their loss.</p>
+
+<p>A minor loss was that the dinner napkins were not forthcoming, but that
+surprised no one, for they were in the charge of The Kid, and, of
+course, she had forgotten them at Lucero. We believe she said something
+about their being &quot;left to be washed&quot; there, but no one listened to her,
+and we used glass cloths instead.</p>
+
+<p>At our first camp evening meal everyone did justice to the goods that
+The Chaperon provided. Coffee was not forgotten, and, after their
+dinner, the more musical members of the band tried to sing&mdash;it kept the
+mosquitoes off&mdash;and when &quot;a catch&quot; was attempted even the bicho colorado
+was cowed into silence. We had looked forward to hearing the guitar
+played by one of the peons here. He had brought his instrument with him,
+but, unfortunately, had dropped a large packing case upon it, which did
+not improve its tone, and this accident prevented our hearing the
+national dances played on a guitar in the open camp as we had hoped to
+do.</p>
+
+<p>Weary with the exertions of the day the party turned their thoughts and
+steps early towards those tents where rows of little bedsteads, each
+with its mosquito net above, looked so attractively inviting, and before
+long lights were out and peace reigned as far as possible.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;Thus done the Vales to bed they creep,<br /></span>
+<span>By whispering winds soon lulled asleep.&quot;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Guards were set and they, with Monte, were left to protect the horses
+and camp through the night.</p>
+
+<a name="Page_247"></a>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h4>CORRESPONDENCE.</h4>
+
+<blockquote><p><i>March 31st, 1910.</i></p>
+
+<p>     SIR,</p>
+
+<p>     I feel that, as I am in a measure responsible for the presence of
+     the two people to whom your correspondents of yesterday object, I
+     should like to apologise, through the medium of your paper, for the
+     inconvenience these two people have caused, and to assure your
+     correspondents that steps shall be taken to prevent a repetition of
+     the annoyance. The fact is, that both of them are so rarely out of
+     Bedlam at the same time that I had not realised the necessity for
+     keeping them apart, nor the danger of their amalgamation, but they
+     shall be kept in separate coaches in future, and I can only express
+     my sincere regret for the mischief and trouble they have caused.</p>
+
+<p>     I am,</p>
+
+<p>     Yours, etc.,</p>
+
+<p>     THE INSTIGATOR.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>A correspondent writes to know if any of our readers can solve the
+following problem for her:&mdash;&quot;'A' starts on a seven days' journey with
+eighty-seven horses, he loses two, one of which he finds next day, and
+at the end of the week has 110 horses.&quot; The enquirer has searched
+through her &quot;Hamblin Smith&quot; but can find no honest method of solution.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>EXPERT GUIDE.&mdash;Anyone requiring a really good guide, thoroughly
+conversant with the Chaco, ways of wild Indians and animals, please
+apply &quot;T.W.M.,&quot; Offices of this <a name="Page_248"></a>paper. Good shot, can cook and sew,
+able to point out all the beauties of nature, animal and vegetable.
+Terms moderate. Inspires confidence in the most timid ladies by his
+winning smile.</p>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;One tin of gingerbread biscuits (Huntley &amp; Palmer). No reward is
+offered, as they will probably be eaten by the time this advertisement
+is in print. If anyone would return the tin, as a recuerdo, to Lucero,
+advertiser would be obliged.</p>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;Lucero. Several good horses.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Several correspondents have written to know whether it is not a menace
+to the rest of the community for one member of the band to sleep
+promiscuously on the bricks, or anywhere else handy, at night. Two or
+three say they have tripped over him in the dark and consider it would
+be a safeguard if anyone preferring to spend the night in this way were
+compelled by law to burn an anchor or other light. They are quite
+willing to believe that the offender had had at least one &quot;starboard
+light&quot; at some period of that night, but that light had lost its power
+of illumination at the time our correspondents tripped over the
+prostrate figure, and they wish to suggest that in future, people
+sleeping out should use some means to safeguard unwary passers-by. (We
+give the complaint the publicity it deserves and trust steps will be
+taken to right the matter.&mdash;ED.)</p><a name="Page_249"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 7.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Friday, April 1st, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<h5>ADVERTISE IN &quot;THE TACURU&quot;&mdash;THIS ENSURES YOUR WANTS BEING KNOWN IN EVERY
+COACH.</h5>
+
+
+<p>We fancy that most of the party were awake to see the dawn this morning:
+it may have been that they only saw the first streaks of light between
+the openings of their tent as they lay in bed trying to soothe the
+itching of the mosquito bites, but we think that few were asleep as the
+sun rose gloriously from the mists on the horizon. It was a strange
+sight, the sudden flooding with bright sunlight of that rough camp land,
+which scarcely owned a tree or shrub. It may be the primitive barbarian
+lying dormant in all of us though hidden under generations of
+civilization, which makes us feel a close communion with Nature when we
+see her in these great uncultivated wastes; but, whatever the causes of
+the sympathy, these pictures, of wild untouched Nature, leave an
+impression and a longing more deep than any experience gained in years
+of civil life; none will ever regret having seen that sunrise on the
+plain, though all regretted the cause of their wakefulness this morning.</p>
+
+<p>Of course The Chaperon was up and clothed (he always seemed to be) and
+ready to get basins of water, looking-glasses, shaving materials and all
+luxuries for the others. The ladies were heard to enquire why he did not
+bring them early tea and hot water, but, on the whole, he combined the
+duties of valet and maid fairly efficiently.</p>
+
+<p>Rumour has it that The Chaperon had given instructions that he was to be
+called by the guard an hour before dawn, so, in the dark, he was
+awakened by hoarse whispers of his name and gentle shakings. After he
+arose it occurred <a name="Page_250"></a>to him that it felt more like the middle of the night
+than the morning, and he enquired of the peon what time it was, the
+answer coming in soft Spanish, &quot;Can't say, the cocks have not crowed
+yet!!!&quot; On investigation The Chaperon found it was scarcely 4 a.m., so
+spent the remaining two hours sitting round the camp fire with the
+peons, alternately dozing and sucking mat&eacute;. We believe he heard some
+expert opinions on the subject of the &quot;roncadors&quot; of the camp during his
+vigil. At any rate he had full opportunity for proving the reality of
+Ruskin's words, &quot;There is no solemnity so deep to a right-thinking
+creature as that of dawn.&quot; At the same time he was heard to murmur
+something to the effect that he would prefer a little less of the &quot;deep
+solemnity&quot; and a little more of &quot;deep slumber&quot; another morning.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely were the toilets, and the packing of personal luggage,
+accomplished, before a request was made that the mosquito nets and beds
+might be removed for loading, and, as we emerged from the various tents,
+the breakfast-table greeted us ready laden with tea (from the kettle),
+sardines, jam, peons' biscuits, etc. True, the only milk procurable was
+some condensed milk, which had &quot;gone solid,&quot; there were not enough
+knives to go round, and a few other irregularities, but no little items
+of that sort ever disturbed the temper of The Tacuruers; they simply
+remarked with the other &quot;Autocrat of the Breakfast Table,&quot; &quot;Difficulties
+are Nature's challenges to you,&quot; and used one spoon for all their cups,
+tore off lumps of bread with their fingers (when they could get hold of
+a loaf), and used the same plate and knife for jam and sardines alike,
+and enjoyed their early meal.</p>
+
+<a name="Rich_black_alluvial_Soil"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image32.png" width="458" height="412" alt="&quot;Rich black alluvial Soil.&quot;" title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>&quot;Rich black alluvial Soil.&quot;</h4>
+
+<p>There was one subject that did cause sore feeling, and that was
+mosquitoes. We had thought we knew all about them, we were proud with
+the conceit of nets, ammonia, <a name="Page_251"></a>and veils, but our pride had a fall.
+Comparatively speaking, we had only known mosquitoes theoretically
+before (though that knowledge was bad enough); last night we learnt of
+them practically, none of us had thought of <i>tucking in</i> our nets, and
+mosquitoes seemed to swarm up under each net before we had been in bed
+for half an hour. Little peace did anyone get through those long night
+hours, and, though a voice came from one of the tents about 2 a.m.,
+remarking clearly above the intermittent snores, &quot;Oh! how lovely,&quot; few
+echoed the sentiment, and the speaker assured us this morning that she
+was only dreaming, and that her words did not refer to insects of any
+kind, neither were they made in connection with the upheaval caused by
+&quot;Monte&quot; at one period of the night. He had taken up his quarters at one
+end of the ladies' tent, but was disturbed from his beauty sleep by the
+sudden barking of a dog outside the other end of the tent. This, of
+course, must be seen to; it was his duty, so, leaping up, he rushed
+through the tent, lifting up each one of the low beds, and their
+occupants, as he passed under them on his way to quell the outside
+noise. The ladies forbore to scream, though they thought of earthquakes,
+but settled down again to their occupation of trying to kill mosquitoes,
+quietly, in the dark, and to snatch moments of slumber occasionally.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast, Our Guest was rather unkindly &quot;put on&quot; by The
+Instigator to dig holes, to ascertain how deep the rich, black, alluvial
+soil reached; the ladies energetically washed up the breakfast things,
+which occupation resulted in The Kid once more, and this time finally,
+being given notice to leave, without a character, owing to general
+incompetence, impertinence, and lack of ability to wash out tea-cloths.</p>
+
+<p>By 7 a.m. the coaches and carts were ready, horses rounded up, the
+&quot;Primera Vista&quot; camp was struck, and <a name="Page_252"></a>the march onward recommenced. But
+not before The Chaperon had pointed out a terror that &quot;might have been.&quot;
+After breakfast he approached us with a stick held at arm's length, on
+which hung a dead, slimy-looking, grey snake, about 4 feet long. He
+explained that this reptile had crawled over the neck of one of the
+peons as he lay on the grass last night. This had happened before we
+went to bed, and we felt grateful to The Chaperon for having saved us
+from another horror last night by keeping the fact, and snake, to
+himself until we were leaving that camp.</p>
+
+<p>The first part of our drive to-day was a new experience; we had passed
+over a few ant-hills before on our journey, but now we came to a land
+where it was difficult, if not impossible, to dodge them; they literally
+covered the ground, and the South American ant-hill is a power to be
+reckoned with. It is not the yielding mass composed of soft earth and
+other heterogeneous materials as found in England, which can be
+demolished with a kick, should anyone have sufficient temerity to lay
+himself open to the attacks of the inmates by thus disturbing them; but
+the homes of the black ant, and the Amazon ant, in Argentina are quite a
+different affair. They are, usually, solid, hard masses of earth from
+three to four feet high, very wide at the base, and covered entirely
+with coarse grass. They present an unyielding obstacle to any vehicle,
+and the wheels of even a heavily laden cart make no impression on them,
+but they are not unlikely to cause the overturning of that cart, and
+even traction engines suffer from the sudden drop caused by these
+gigantic sugar-loaves. Therefore it will be easily realized that the
+innumerable ant-hills through, and over which, we drove, were no
+inconsiderable menace to the safety of the party, and it was only due to
+the great care and skill of our drivers in threading their way amongst
+these obstacles that the <a name="Page_253"></a>inmates of the coaches were not upset time
+after time. As it was, no accident of the slightest description
+occurred&mdash;only a few bumps and jolts as we ascended or descended one of
+the ant-hills, which are so difficult to discern in open camp, where the
+whole land is covered alike with long grass. The worst part of our
+travelling did not last more than three or four hours; then we came to
+smoother country, fewer ant-hills, and occasional small lagunas, the
+land growing slightly undulating, though still bare of trees, and, after
+another three hours' driving, during which we had many changes of horses
+and several &quot;helps&quot; from the guides over extra bad pieces of travelling,
+we could see in the distance the position of the Lake Palmar and the
+tops of the palms which grow on the farther shore.</p>
+
+<p>It was during this part of our day's journey that the peons made two
+captures of live animals in an armadillo and a nutria. These men have
+extraordinary good and far sight, and observe any movement in the grass,
+yards ahead of them. They at once killed both animals, for they are
+exceedingly fond of armadillo flesh, and cook the animal in its skin.</p>
+
+<p>It was decided that horses and drivers alike would require a rest when
+we reached the shores of the lake, and, after our cocheros had made
+futile attempts to cut figures of 8 with their respective four and
+two-in-hands on the invitingly firm, yellow sands which surround Lake
+Palmar, all dismounted, horses were taken out, and, while lunch was
+being prepared, the party wandered on the shores of the lake trying to
+find remnants of extinct monsters, fossilised palms, and other
+improbable things. The Instigator rushed up and down picking leaves to
+bits, collecting sand and examining it under the microscope (which is,
+as yet, his), tasting the water of the lake, and generally trying to
+find a way of teaching Nature how to <a name="Page_254"></a>improve on her own handiwork. It
+really seems a pity She does not engage him as her expert consulting
+engineer. My Lady and The Saint did discover a boar-hound's tooth on the
+sands, and two teeth of a nutria, very pretty in their long, gentle
+curve, white at the root and gradually deepening to a reddish-brown at
+the end; but both these finds were absolutely valueless, and, though
+there was talk of having the teeth set as brooches, etc., connoisseurs,
+such as The Wild Man, knew well that the &quot;finds&quot; would be dissolved to
+dust long before they could reach the civilisation of a jeweller's shop.</p>
+
+<p>The tiny banks which slope down from the camp to meet the wide
+stretching sands of the lake are covered with scrub and low trees of the
+acacia type, and, on one of these low trees, eked out with camp stools,
+the party, wearied with their search for curios, settled down to await
+their mid-day meal. It was gently broken to us that the sheep had at
+last been sacrificed, and would shortly appear before us in a different
+guise. The slaughter must have been most humane, for no one of us had
+heard the slightest cry or sound of distress, and now the flesh was
+being cooked. The peons would always prefer to cook all meat in the
+hide, if they were allowed to do so, and it is only with constant
+watching that they are prevented from thus wasting the valuable skins of
+animals. They are enormous meat eaters, which is scarcely to be wondered
+at, considering how scarce green food is. They live on meat, mat&eacute;, and
+hard biscuits.</p>
+
+<p>The bright idea occurred to someone that a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i> would be
+acceptable, considering how long ago we had had our meagre early morning
+meal, so the only available article, a tinned Dutch cheese, was
+attacked; and none but those who have tried, under similar
+circumstances, one of the soft Dutch cheeses which one obtains in the
+Argentine, <a name="Page_255"></a>would be able to understand how very good it can be. As it
+was handed round (to everyone on the same knife), hunger, open-air, and
+the exercise of the ant-hills caused it to be appreciated more than
+usual, even beyond its deserts, if possible.</p>
+
+<p>As the party were thus collected (mostly with their legs tucked away to
+prevent the climbing operations of the black ants with which the ground
+was swarming), The Instigator took this opportunity to try to rid
+himself of some of the responsibility of the trip by calling a meeting
+(the whole nine were already there), and putting it to the vote as to
+whether The Kid, now that she had lost her companions the sheep, should
+be turned adrift to find her way back again as best she could, drowned
+in the lake, or allowed to accompany the party for the rest of the
+journey. A wild gleam of joy lit the eyes of everyone who knew anything
+of her at this prospect of getting rid of the trial. Both the ladies,
+and everyone who had known her for longer than the week, voted, hands
+and feet, for her extinction, but four of the men were foolishly too
+polite to express their real wishes. So she herself was left with the
+casting vote, and chose to go on! Thus The Instigator's well-thought
+plan to remove an incubus was frustrated. He was so disgusted with his
+failure in a laudable object that, directly after &quot;lunch&quot; (which meant
+each one cutting off from the half-sheep, that was handed round, the
+piece he or she preferred), he went off with his microscope trying to
+find other interests, and in a few minutes was growing unduly excited
+over a shrub on which he discovered some most unusual excrescences.
+These shapeless masses of earth, apparently growing on the shrub, he was
+examining from all points with the naked eye before submitting them to
+microscopic investigation, and it was only when Our Guest came up and
+removed some of the earth from one of the excrescences that The<a name="Page_256"></a>
+Instigator, who was watching intently, noted that the mass resolved
+itself into the shape of one of The Saint's shoes, which had been hung
+up on the shrub to dry after her lake-searching expedition. Foiled
+again, The Instigator collected The Delineator and My Lady, and started
+to walk to the northern end of the lake, where The Jehu could pick them
+up, when the washing, packing and harnessing allowed of an onward move.
+We are told that for once The Kid, perhaps stimulated by her recent
+narrow escape from total extinction, really did do some work here. It is
+true we only have her word, an indistinct murmur from The Chaperon, and
+some clean plates to vouch for the statement, as all the other members
+of the party remaining were lying in more or less graceful slumberous
+attitudes in carts, under trees, or anywhere else, enjoying forty winks.
+Some excellent photos were obtained of the sleeping beauties as they lay
+there resting, but their modesty caused them to beg for forbearance in
+the publication of any of the pictures thus obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Before the actual start was made, The Jehu, Our Guest, The Chaperon, and
+The Wild Man tried their hands at some revolver-shooting. Naturally, the
+drivers, after their long hours with the reins, could not do themselves
+justice with the more dangerous weapons, but, combined with Our Guest
+and The Wild Man, they left a fair show of broken bottles in the lake,
+rather to the surprise of the lookers-on.</p>
+
+<p>Neither of our cocheros could resist the further opportunity of figures
+of eight as we drove off on the hard sand, but we believe they were not
+encouraged in these exhibitions by their passengers, and, skirting the
+North part of the lake they came to a little ranch where they had
+arranged to meet the three walkers, who had discovered divers
+interesting specimens of animal, vegetable and mineral kinds during
+their very pleasant stroll round the lake. Here they were <a name="Page_257"></a>sitting at
+the ranch awaiting the arrival of the coaches, and they introduced the
+newcomers to a marvellous collection of tame birds with whom they had
+made acquaintance. The owners of the ranch had six or seven birds of
+different kinds, which flew about and pitched on anyone's shoulder or
+hand, or on the carriages, and were most friendly; in fact, one big bird
+was so willing to become attached to us that we could scarcely persuade
+it to leave the coach when we were ready to drive on.</p>
+
+<p>We allowed those who had driven to the spot a few moments in which to
+dismount and greet the neat little mistress of the ranch, with whom we
+had already made friends, and her pretty children. The roofing of this
+little ranch and its out-houses was most interesting. It was carried out
+entirely with trunks of palm trees. These, split in half and cleared of
+all sap, made very effective roofing, placed alternately in concave and
+convex form, so that the ridges of the two lengths of trunk placed bark
+upward rest in the hollow of the intervening trunk. Naturally, all rain
+water drains off the convex half into the concave trunk and flows down
+these gullies into the water course formed of another hollowed palm
+trunk running along the lower edge of the roof. A more suitable and
+rainproof roof could scarcely be designed. The mistress of the house was
+most anxious to entertain us to tea, but, having picked up our guide
+from Vera, who it was arranged should meet us here with letters, we
+could not spare time for further delay, and once more started off with
+the guide ahead of us.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the ranch we turned to the eastward, and before long
+passed over the Calchaqui river (which is more generally known as the
+Golondrino here). This was not a difficult matter.</p>
+
+<p>After crossing the Calchaqui we enter quite a new country, the land is
+perceptibly higher, the grasses are finer <a name="Page_258"></a>and trees begin to appear.
+First we came to the tall palm trees on the edge of the forest, and very
+imposing they were, then small montes gave place to the regular woods
+which stretch North on this side of the river, and trees abound. The
+scenery was altogether more tropical. Occasional flocks of bright pink
+flamingoes made a welcome touch of colour as they stood on the edge of
+some little laguna, or, disturbed by the unusual approach of coaches,
+flew off in the distance. Hares were to be seen now and then, and
+sometimes even one of the small wild deer of the forest was noticed
+before it rushed off to the shelter of the trees.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately, about this time, the sun, which had been so friendly all
+day, became overcast with clouds, and the sky assumed a threatening
+appearance; but, notwithstanding the wise head-shakings of those who
+know the country (The Delineator and The Jehu in particular), the party
+refused to be downhearted, and asserted that rain was the most unlikely
+event, and, in any case, they intended to enjoy their present drive
+through scenery which was not unlike that which would be found in an
+English park; the great expanses were gone, and in their place we had
+slightly undulating stretches of grass bordered with trees of all kinds.
+The whole aspect of the land had changed and the country here was
+extremely pretty, though no distant views could be obtained owing to the
+thick growth of the trees and the impossibility of finding any but the
+slightest rising ground.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived, before long, at a little ranch, in the neighbourhood of
+which we were to encamp for the night. The spot was very different to
+our camp of last night, for here we were surrounded with trees, and near
+by a flock of sheep, belonging to the ranch, were feeding. Before the
+heavier carts could arrive, and the work of tent-erecting commence,
+there was plenty of time for a cup of tea, with the aid of My Lady's
+useful basket; but all the water that could <a name="Page_259"></a>be obtained from the
+so-called &quot;well&quot; at the ranch was half mud, and, though this was used
+with great success, we could only secure two mouthfuls of tea from each
+cup, as the rest of the contents was composed of mud. We believe The Kid
+was rather annoyed about this, and felt distinctly aggrieved, but she
+did not dare to give vent to her feelings, and the matter did not worry
+those who were looking forward to &quot;cocktails&quot; before dinner, and well
+they deserved those &quot;cocktails,&quot; for by the time the carts arrived the
+atmosphere had become intensely close; a slight drizzle seemed only to
+add to the damp heat, and the work of unloading and erecting tents, and
+beds, and unpacking in that warm, steaming air, which was intensified
+under the coverings, was no light one; but here, again, everyone
+performed their quota, whether large or small, for the general good.
+Before long the tents were up. Three were erected to-night, as, owing to
+the rain, we should be obliged to have food under canvas. The Instigator
+caused great admiration by cunningly using trees as supports in the
+erection of the tents under his supervision, and thus hurrying matters
+on. Everything was finished, beds made, luggage under cover, the table
+laid ready in the tent, and lamps lit and suspended before the short
+twilight had given place to complete darkness, and The Saint once more
+earned the blessings and gratitude of all by thoughtfully insisting on a
+general &quot;washing of faces.&quot; As she marshalled the party in front of her,
+and attacked each one with sponge and towel, we were irresistibly
+reminded of a board school; but that sponge of toilet vinegar, after the
+damp heat and all the work, was one of the most refreshing things
+imaginable, and everyone felt cleaner and more cheerful after this
+ablution, and ready to attack the poor little armadillo, which had been
+cooked; this meat tastes very much like sucking pig. The rain, which was
+coming down heavily by this time, was <a name="Page_260"></a>powerless to damp the spirits of
+the party as they sat down to dinner. They were only troubled because
+they feared this would be their last evening meal in camp, and that
+Civilisation might again claim them for her own to-morrow, for a great
+deal of the enjoyment of this trip has been due, undoubtedly, to its
+incomparable freedom. So they spent the time in eating, and holding a
+mutual admiration society meeting. Each decided (between the mouthfuls
+of mutton and armadillo) that every other member of the party was just
+the nicest person that he or she had ever met, and, as there was no one
+there to contradict the obviously erroneous statements, all were
+satisfied and content, and drank each other's healths with enthusiasm,
+and&mdash;whatever else was left. Someone even tried to murmur something
+kindly about The Kid. Above all, the Instigator was eulogised, and
+rightly, too, for his genial influence helped everything to go well; no
+one could have grumbled at the little inconveniences which they had had
+to put up with at times, while The Instigator was so cheerful and
+anxious for others' comfort and careless of his own through all. His
+interest in, and enthusiasm for, his Company know no bounds. Get him to
+hold forth, and he will tell you how, in the early days of the Company,
+matters were quite different from what they are to-day. The shares stood
+then at five shillings each, and the bankers refused to allow an
+overdraft of &pound;2,000, and when it became absolutely necessary to have
+money he actually made advances out of his own pocket to supply the
+requisite funds.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards matters began to improve, and when he visited the
+property in 1900 he was able to send this reassuring message to the
+General Meeting:&mdash;&quot;I honestly believe the worst is past, and that in
+future we shall progress.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He always appraises the work of others whether the result of their
+operations is successful or not, and he will <a name="Page_261"></a>appreciate the mental and
+manual exertions expended on the undertaking by the employees of the
+Company at their true worth. All he asks of his colleagues and
+subordinates is that each one shall &quot;play the game&quot; in every sense of
+the word to the best of his ability. He never paints the prospects of a
+beginner in rosy hues; in fact, he has been known to speak of the
+hardships and privations which a young man must be prepared to go
+through on first joining the Company as being comparable to &quot;the life of
+a dog.&quot; To-day the men who have been through those first years of
+necessary self-denial and hard work are grateful for the training they
+have received and anxious to work their best for the Company.</p>
+
+<p>For a long while the party sat talking of their experiences on this
+trip, and of the Company and its prospects. The travelling over this
+comparatively unknown land had been a revelation to most; the dormant
+wealth lying in the camp must be enormous, but men, money, and brains
+are needed to exploit it. Unfortunately, it is still difficult to get
+colonists for these more northern districts, but when the railway which
+is contemplated becomes an accomplished fact, as it assuredly must,
+people will be attracted further north, colonisation will be easier, the
+land will yield its hundredfold, and some one will, in time, have
+performed the great deed of &quot;making two blades of grass grow where only
+one grew before.&quot; It may seem to those accustomed to the narrower life
+of towns, a lonely, empty life to spend one's years and energies
+improving these wild lands; but assuredly the man who labours here with
+the best that is in him, not only earns a great reward for himself in
+the gradual development and growth of that land, but has deserved well
+of mankind in general, and will, some day, receive his &quot;Well done,&quot; than
+which there is no higher praise, as surely as those whose lives have
+been spent in the more public fields of civilisation or in military
+prowess.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_262"></a>For some, obscure reason it is generally supposed that the man who
+spends his life in agricultural pursuits is bound to have his mental
+abilities dulled by the continuous round of duties connected with the
+land and the care of animals. The origin of this idea is difficult to
+imagine, unless it be that agriculture is the oldest and most necessary
+pursuit of mankind; but surely the man who has to keep a perpetual watch
+on wind, weather and workers, animal and vegetable kingdom and natural
+phenomena, and be ready to anticipate any change, besides being
+thoroughly in touch with all the latest improvements, mechanical and
+material, in reference to his calling, and conversant with the ruling
+prices in the best markets, cannot be held to be a man whose perceptions
+are becoming blunted by his business. It is certainly true that there
+are many who do &quot;let things go,&quot; but that class is not confined to
+agriculturists alone, and in agriculture, as in all other callings,
+those who &quot;let things slide&quot; very shortly find that most things have
+slid away from them irrevocably. Certainly the Argentine is no place for
+the man disinclined for exertion. She holds rewards, and great rewards;
+but only for the resolute who are prepared to lead a strenuous and
+self-denying life of labour, exposure and fatigue, and who come to her
+determined to win the best from her rich lands, and to take every
+opportunity as it comes in their way for improving their knowledge.</p>
+
+<p>Plans were made for to-morrow's journey; there was talk, if the day was
+fine and the way possible, of going first south-east to the tannin
+factory at La Gallareta, then due north to Las Gamas, but it was feared
+that the recent heavy rains in this district would have made the
+undertaking of the two journeys on one day inadvisable, and the Indian
+guide persuaded the &quot;leaders&quot; that it would be wiser to go straight to
+Las Gamas to-morrow and <a name="Page_263"></a>leave the visit to the factory for Monday. This
+would give Tuesday for Santa Lucia and Wednesday for Vera. Sarnosa and
+Olmos could be visited from one or the other of these two estancias,
+and, leaving Vera on Friday afternoon, San Cristobal would be reached on
+Saturday evening.</p>
+
+<p>As we dispersed in the rain to our various tents, a slight thunder and
+lightning storm commenced, but, notwithstanding this, we were happy in
+the assurance that our troubles from mosquitoes were likely to be less
+virulent to-night, owing to our proximity to the sheepfold of the ranch.
+Therefore, as good disciples of the immortal Pepys, we quote&mdash;and with
+appropriate action&mdash;&quot;So to bed.&quot;</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENT.</h4>
+
+<p>OUT OF WORK.&mdash;Advertiser wants situation as general help; might be
+useful in tea-taster's office; hard work not so much an object as high
+wages and comfortable living. Advertiser could take immediate situation.
+No references.&mdash;T.K., <i>Second Coach</i>.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>T.C. writes in answer to the arithmetical problem of yesterday's date,
+&quot;Yes, if A starts with 87 horses, loses 2, and finds 1, he does end the
+journey with 110, for he collects 24 more at the last estancia. Only
+experts can do this; hence your correspondent's failure to find a
+solution.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;One watch and chain (said to be gold), trinkets attached
+containing several locks of hair and portraits of ten or twelve
+gentlemen. If finder would return portraits and hair, owner would be
+obliged.&mdash;T.K.</p><a name="Page_264"></a>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 8.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Saturday, April 2nd, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<h5>THE CIRCULATION OF &quot;THE TACURU&quot; WENT UP LITERALLY BY LEAPS AND BOUNDS
+YESTERDAY MORNING, FAR BEYOND THE EXPECTATIONS EVEN OF THE EDITOR.</h5>
+
+
+<p>The morning dawned damp and dreary; rain had fallen steadily all night
+long, and still continues. Neither The Chaperon nor anyone else had an
+opportunity for seeing &quot;the golden exhalations of dawn&quot; this morning.
+To-day's &quot;exhalations&quot; were chiefly those of moisture, and the only gold
+we saw was supplied by the light of the paraffin lamps which The
+Chaperon, always on the look out to anticipate our wishes, provided for
+us to see our way to wash. The water for ablutions was obtained from the
+mud-hole which did duty for a well at the ranch, and its appearance was
+somewhat disconcerting. However, with skill, one could scoop up a little
+of the surface of the water for a splash without disturbing the thick
+stratum of mud at the bottom of the basin; things might have been worse,
+and everyone felt that on such a damp day washing at all was merely an
+&aelig;sthetic waste of energy. By the time dressing was accomplished it was
+sufficiently light for the lamps to be dispensed with, and we assembled
+for breakfast in a dull-grey atmosphere. Hot tea, even though half mud,
+was very good. We believe that the leaf of a certain cactus has the
+power of clearing water absolutely; if it is dropped in a vessel of
+water, it and the mud settle at the bottom, leaving the water quite
+clear; but though several varieties of cacti were tried this morning,
+none were successful; apparently the special kind did not grow around
+our camp.</p><a name="Page_265"></a>
+
+<a name="Water_Knee_deep"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image33.png" width="458" height="429" alt="Water Knee-deep." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Water Knee-deep.</h4>
+
+<p>No one seemed much disheartened by the rain; even the peons, though
+already wet through in their scanty garments, were cheerfully smiling as
+usual, with no thought of grumbling. Monte, too, was calmly ready to
+accompany us, despite the bad weather.</p>
+
+<p>Owing either to the skilful manner of tucking in the nets adopted last
+night, or to the neighbourhood of the sheepfold, mosquitoes had not
+troubled us nearly so much as on the previous night; only the continual
+flashes of lightning and the soft rumblings of thunder during the steady
+downpour had been able to disturb our deep slumbers.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as possible the tents were taken down, packing accomplished, and
+a start made. Fortunately the ant-hills were considerably fewer in
+number to-day, but the ground was ankle deep in water everywhere, and
+fallen tree trunks hidden under the, in some places, really deep water,
+formed a considerable danger in our path. However, again owing to the
+skill of our drivers, no accident occurred all through that long drive
+in unceasing rain, which shrouded all but the most immediate view. Of
+course, constant changes of horses were necessary, as, for eight hours
+we drove through water, above and below, to our destination. The
+accomplishment of that drive of his four-in-hand from the absolutely
+unsheltered position on the box was no small feat on the part of The
+Jehu; we all felt an even deeper admiration for his pluck and endurance
+than before, as he steadily pursued his way on that terrible day, when
+his whole body and especially his hands must have been numbed through
+and through with the cold and wet. The Chaperon, too, had an arduous
+day, though his work was not so strenuous as that of The Jehu. At one
+spot, when under trees we made a change of horses, The Chaperon was seen
+to be wading through water, knee deep, as he handed round the only
+refreshments available&mdash;ginger-bread, biscuits, beer and gin&mdash;<a name="Page_266"></a>to guests
+and peons alike, all drinking gratefully from the same small measure.
+That drive is something to be remembered; it was executed under the most
+trying circumstances with not a single complaint or grumble from anyone,
+but an increased thankfulness on the part of the passengers that they
+were in such good hands during the trip. The land through which we drove
+to-day is covered with trees of various kinds; large forests exist on
+the eastern side of the Calchaqui, bordering the river for its entire
+length; the trees of these forests are chiefly Algarrobo the wood of
+which is not unlike our walnut in appearance, but extremely hard; in
+days to come this timber will be used in great quantities for making
+parquet flooring. It seems almost incredible that the city of Buenos
+Aires should import millions of square metres of ready-made parquet
+flooring when the Argentine produces magnificent timber of far more
+suitable and better wearing quality for the purpose than any used in
+imported parquet. As we have journeyed eastward, trees have become much
+more numerous, and splendid timber is to be seen on every side. Most
+numerous amongst the trees is the Quebracho Colorado, which supplies one
+of the hardest timbers the world produces. The trees have a peculiar
+appearance, for their leaves are quite small and the trunks have a rough
+bark from which often hangs moss-like lichen, of which, by the way,
+cattle are very fond. The photo on the opposite page gives a general
+idea of a tree's appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The wood, which is light in colour when first cut, becomes dark red upon
+being exposed to light and weather, and it is intensely hard.</p>
+
+<a name="Quebracho_Colorado_Tree"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image34.png" width="457" height="537" alt="Quebracho Colorado Tree." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Quebracho Colorado Tree.</h4>
+
+<p>The word &quot;quebracho&quot; (pronounced KAYBRATSHO) signifies axe-breaking, and
+even modern tools do not retain their edge long when working on this
+wood.</p><a name="Page_267"></a>
+
+<p>The wonderful durability of the wood renders it a perfect material for
+railway sleepers, and this has been appreciated by the Government of
+Argentina to such an extent that they have decreed that the laying of
+new railways is to be upon sleepers made of the hard woods of the
+Country.</p>
+
+<a name="Sleepers_awaiting_Transport_at_Vera"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image35.png" width="455" height="486" alt="Sleepers awaiting Transport at Vera." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Sleepers awaiting Transport at Vera.</h4>
+
+<p>The forests of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company have produced in the last
+twelve years over a million Quebracho Colorado sleepers.</p>
+
+<p>One drawback to the wood is that it has the peculiarity of splitting
+around the heart of the tree. This is caused by the accumulation of
+resin at certain periods, and is probably connected in some way with the
+excessive moisture or dryness of a particular year's growth.</p>
+
+<p>The tree is often attacked by a boring grub, which enters by making a
+very small pin prick opening, and during its existence in the tree grows
+and bores an ever enlarging hole until often it becomes half an inch in
+diameter. It would seem almost incredible that a grub could live either
+on the resins in the tree or be able to bore through what is one of the
+hardest woods in the world.</p>
+
+<p>Of recent years this timber has also been put to another use&mdash;that of
+producing tan. When used for this purpose, the tree was cut down, its
+outer sapwood removed, and then taken to the river to be finally shipped
+to the United States of America or to Germany.</p>
+
+<p>It was soon found that the railway and shipping freight charges absorbed
+a considerable amount of the profits to be obtained in making this
+tannin extract abroad, and, therefore, extract factories were erected in
+Argentina. The process of obtaining the extract is very simple; the logs
+are first put through a machine which reduces them to chips, the chips
+are then boiled in water till all soluble matter is extracted from them,
+and the solution obtained is concentrated down to <a name="Page_268"></a>the consistency of
+pitch; in this form, after being dried, it is exported, and is used by
+tanners the world over. The great necessity and essence of success, in
+the present way of working the business, is good water and plenty of it.</p>
+
+<p>We do not know who first noticed the tannin material oozing out of these
+trees, but no doubt attention was called to the fact by pools in the
+neighbourhood of the trees being often red in colour. Undoubtedly the
+Germans first took this business up on a large scale, and to-day they
+hold an enormous quantity of forest lands.</p>
+
+<p>Hitherto the extract has been brought on to the market in a solid state
+very much after the style of Burma cutch. The Santa F&eacute; Land Company have
+recently produced the material in a fine powdered state, absolutely
+pure, and containing a great deal less moisture than any other form of
+extract on the market, and they are about to erect a factory to work
+this process in connection with their saw mills at Vera. This new
+process requires very little water as compared with the old method, and
+can be adopted, in huge areas hitherto unsuitable for the industry.</p>
+
+<p>About mid-day we approached a plaza, or wood deposit, of the La
+Gallareta Factory, situated on the Company's Lands. Rain had been
+falling in torrents for days past, and the tracks (called by courtesy
+&quot;roads&quot;) had one and all become deep crevasses of soft mud, loads of
+timber had been left here and there in the wood, just wherever the cart
+conveying it had stuck, and in many places the water was so deep that
+not a vestige of these obstacles could be seen. Our coaches had to be
+driven under (or perhaps we should say &quot;over&quot;) such circumstances as
+these for about three miles, and this part of our journey was absolutely
+dangerous; the greatest credit is due to the drivers and those in charge
+of the party that no serious accident occurred, for, about mid-day, the
+way was <a name="Page_269"></a>truly terrible, and one never knew when a tree trunk, small or
+large, lying hidden under the water, would cause a terrific jolt to the
+cart, despite the utmost efforts on the part of our cocheros. However,
+we passed from the extreme danger zone into the comparatively smooth
+waters of the flooded lands. So we drove on, our drivers and guides
+becoming more and more chilled with the rain and cold, but always
+cheerful, till at last wire fencing and other signs of civilisation
+marked our approach to the precincts of Las Gamas. This was indeed a
+welcome sight to the party, for all were beginning to feel the need of
+food and shelter, and though the &quot;passengers&quot; in the coaches were
+comparatively dry, despite the continual downpour, the drivers were wet
+through long ago and the peons had not been dry since dawn.</p>
+
+<a name="Tannin_Extract_Factory"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image36.png" width="451" height="517" alt="Tannin Extract Factory." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Tannin Extract Factory.</h4>
+
+<p>No one was sorry when &quot;The Jehu,&quot; to shorten the drive, ordered some of
+the wire fencing to be dropped so that we might proceed in a straight
+line to the house instead of making the considerable detour to the gate.
+It was past three o'clock when, after a side-slip or two, and consequent
+meeting with gate-posts, we drew up in front of the estancia house and
+noticed on the outbuildings a damp flag trying to flap a weary &quot;welcome&quot;
+to the party of Tacuruers. The first thing was to get The Jehu from his
+driving seat and into a warm bath, and the same treatment was meted out
+to The Chaperon, and hot whisky and water for all! Our host and hostess
+gave us such a genial welcome and the big room looked so dry and
+inviting, with a wood fire crackling in the grate, that our troubles,
+which had, during the long hours of to-day's tedious drive, assumed
+really serious proportions, were soon forgotten as we sat down, in an
+incredibly short time, to a hearty meal of roast turkey and mince pies!
+We almost fell to wishing each other a Happy Christmas, and
+instinctively wondered <a name="Page_270"></a>if roast chestnuts would form part of the
+afternoon's programme. Unfortunately, chestnuts of an allegorical kind
+<i>did</i> enter into the proceedings. Meanwhile, the rain continued its
+unceasing downpour. It was some time before the baggage waggons arrived
+on the scene, and, needless to say, they and their contents were very
+damp. But the peons soon had the goods unpacked, and ere long were happy
+and dry in the big galpon round a roaring fire, which they must have
+badly needed. Their behaviour all through this terrible day, sometimes
+under most trying circumstances, had been splendid, and it says a good
+deal for master as well as for man that not once was a sound of
+discontent heard. In fact, the men often suggested themselves little
+things in which they thought they might help the caretakers of the
+party. It was a relief to us all to know that the work of those peons
+had ended for the day with the caring for the horses and unpacking of
+the goods.</p>
+
+<p>Monte still accompanied us, but here he had to be kept under strict
+surveillance, for dogs were numerous on the premises, and several of
+them were not of the kind who brook any encroachment, however harmless,
+on their preserves; so poor Monte was perforce shut up, away from the
+house, where Bear and his companions could not take exception to the
+presence of an interloper. The late afternoon and evening were chiefly
+spent in having warm baths, which were most grateful after the, of
+necessity, somewhat sketchy ablutions of the past three days. Now that
+the safe arrival of the luggage was an accomplished fact, and the
+travellers clothed and fed, there seemed little reason for late hours,
+and it was not long after dinner when the general dispersal took place.
+We only waited to hear a few selections of songs on the beautiful
+gramophone which our host had received a few months ago as a Christmas
+greeting from England. It must be difficult for those at <a name="Page_271"></a>home to
+realise what an immense amount of pleasure a good gramophone can give to
+the dwellers in the far camp lands. This instrument was in constant
+request, and both the machine and records were extraordinarily good.
+Still, even this great attraction did not tempt the party to sit up
+late; everyone was tired and exhausted, and our cocheros, more
+especially the Jehu, must have been worn out with their exertions of the
+day. We can only hope they will suffer no after ill effects from their
+arduous task and severe drenchings.</p>
+
+<a name="Some_of_the_Horses"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image37.png" width="464" height="464" alt="Some of the Horses." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Some of the Horses.</h4>
+
+<p>Our horses have been simply wonderful during this trip. We have driven,
+ridden, and brought along nearly 100 animals for 150 miles, and have not
+lost one upon the journey. This speaks volumes for the care and training
+bestowed upon the animals at the head estancia, and we are inclined to
+think that few other places could supply as many animals to do such
+trying work. The fitness of our animals is owing entirely to the
+continual attention and care they receive daily at the estancia.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p><i>We are sorry to be obliged to hold over all correspondence,
+advertisements, etc., to-day, as, doubtless owing to the floods, no
+communications had reached us up to the time of going to press. We hope
+all correspondents will accept our sincere apologies for the unavoidable
+delay in dealing with letters and orders; all despatches shall receive
+our earnest attention as soon as they come to hand.</i></p><a name="Page_272"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 9</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Sunday, April 3rd, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+
+<p>Dawn showed us no respite of the drenching rain; the paths, the garden,
+and the camps were all flooded with the continuous rain of yesterday and
+last night, and still it poured. After disposing of a more substantial
+breakfast than had fallen to the lot of the travellers for some days,
+there seemed little to do save listen to the dulcet strains of the
+gramophone, which proved a welcome diversion. A considerable disturbance
+was caused by a dog fight under the table round which we were sitting;
+whether intentional or not on the part of the animals, the rout of the
+ladies was complete, and the dogs were only separated by the calm
+procedure of some of the men who held them under the water taps until
+their ardour was cooled. Monte was out of all this trouble, for he had
+been consigned to the security of the galpon to avoid trouble concerning
+rights of way which would assuredly have arisen between himself and Bear
+(the big bulldog of the estancia) had they met. Bear amused the company
+by presenting a truly comical sight, some minutes later, when he decided
+to have a drink after his fight; he walked with majestic mien up to the
+water spout, which jutted out from the house a few feet from the ground,
+and, poking out his heavy under-jaw, collected the flow of water in his
+mouth in a most satisfying way, for a few seconds. Of course, The
+Instigator started off pacing and measuring the room's verandah, etc.,
+in order to devise a scheme for the best improvements for the estancia,
+and before long he and The Delineator had made out a plan which would
+drive any member of the R.I.B.A. to desperation, but caused its authors
+enormous joy. The Jehu and<a name="Page_273"></a> The Chaperon were occupied for some time in
+seeing to the comfort of their men and animals, and trying to dry the
+tents, clothes, etc., by the huge fire in the galpon in which the peons
+were housed for the day. We are told that one Tacuruer tried to employ
+the morning remuneratively by opening a temporary barber's shop on the
+verandah, and advertising &quot;hair-cutting and shaving&quot;; possibly he might
+have built up a successful business in time, but unfortunately for him
+his first customer's beard was too unyielding for the ordinary scissors
+and the customer objected to the way in which the horse clippers were
+used on the hirsute growth of his chin, and talked of his treatment
+afterwards in a way that did not inspire confidence in the other
+might-have-been customers, who were observed to slink away one by one
+from the barber's chair as if it were infected. We regret that a
+well-meant enterprise on the part of one of The Tacuru party met with
+such a poor reception.</p>
+
+<p>A gleam of ceasing rain&mdash;it was not sunshine&mdash;gave courage to some of
+the more energetic members of the party to go forth to inspect the heaps
+of wood about to be made into charcoal in the neighbourhood of the
+estancia, if any could be reached on dry land. For to-morrow the visit
+to the La Gallareta factory will occupy the day, and the Charcoal piles
+are too interesting a sight to be left unvisited now that we are in the
+wood department of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company.</p>
+
+<p>In the northern districts where trees are numerous it is necessary to
+&quot;distroncar&quot; the land before the soil can be brought into condition
+suitable for the plough. In other words all the trees and roots must be
+removed before ploughing operations commence. But the timber so obtained
+is not wasted; the branches and all pieces not big enough to be used for
+sleepers, etc., are cut up into various suitable lengths and piled
+together in such a manner that <a name="Page_274"></a>when finished the heap presents the
+appearance of a huge beehive; the centre of this dome running from the
+apex to the ground is a hollow cylinder; this tube or pipe is filled up
+with the small sticks and twigs from the trees, and when all is in
+readiness the contents of the cylinder are fired from the top, the fire
+slowly burns downwards and sets light to the surrounding logs which in
+their turn smoulder till they become charcoal. But the match is not
+applied until the whole mass of wood has been covered up and plastered
+over with mud, to prevent the entrance of any air. The kiln thus forms
+an enclosed retort, and the wood is carbonised and makes excellent
+charcoal, which eventually finds its way to Buenos Aires and other
+cities, where immense quantities are used for cooking and heating
+purposes. If all goes well, the kiln being well built, and no air
+admitted, some thirty to forty tons of charcoal are produced from one of
+these heaps; not infrequently, however, the crown breaks in; this allows
+the air to enter, the wood is completely burnt, and the labour expended
+on this &quot;horno&quot; is represented by a few cartloads of useless ash. The
+thought of these possible failures was too much for The Instigator; he
+held forth, at length, upon the advisability of bringing a little
+science to bear upon the problem of preventing any waste of the material
+itself or of the by-products. His theory is that to make the best use of
+nature's lavish gifts in the way of wood products, an iron or brick
+still should be erected, on the inside of which the heavy tarry products
+would naturally accumulate, and so find their way to the base of the
+kiln where they could be collected and run out into casks for
+utilisation, whilst the lighter vapours are condensed in the hood of the
+still to be chemically treated later for their highly valuable
+properties, and the charcoal itself would be a more certain production
+from these brick or iron kilns than <a name="Page_275"></a>it is from the present heaps. At
+this point of his lecture the weather became impossible, and when The
+Instigator discovered that he was expatiating to the camp and rain
+alone, he, too, turned to seek the shelter of the estancia house,
+whither his audience had long ago fled. For some time we watched the
+storm as it worked up with intense fury. The lightning as it illuminated
+the whole camp was a wonderful sight, it seemed to flash (and this was
+before the dinner hour) yellow light from the north, red from the south,
+and a bright white light from the east, and was of long continuance. The
+culminating point seemed to come when an appalling crash was heard and
+something appeared to have been struck by lightning. This drove the
+party indoors, though from the time of the crash (we found later that it
+was the telephone which had suffered), the storm abated and only steady
+rain continued. However, nothing more could be done out of doors, and
+everyone was glad of warmth and shelter, while they hoped for a better
+day to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>Songs occupied the evening, and most of the party retired early to bed.</p>
+
+<p>The Editor regrets that up to the time of going to press to-day, the
+advertisements, correspondence, etc., due for yesterday's issue had not
+reached the office; he fears they may have been lost, and requests that
+all orders may be repeated.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The following advertisements of to-day's dating have been sent in:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>HAIR CUTTING AND SHAVING while you wait.&mdash;Lowest prices. Large supply of
+tools, or customers may bring their own instruments if preferred. Good
+style guaranteed. Customers' comfort not so much considered as thorough
+work. Satisfaction certain.&mdash;T.C., THE VERANDAH.</p><a name="Page_276"></a>
+
+<p>WANTED.&mdash;Reliable Barber&mdash;for clipping advertiser's beard weekly, at own
+residence. May be required to travel. Gentleness much appreciated;
+advertiser would give valuable information on any subject in return for
+Barber's services.&mdash;T.I., LAS GAMAS.</p>
+
+<p>WANTED&mdash;By several people; good book on &quot;How not to lose at Bridge.&quot;
+Anyone possessing a copy of this valuable work for sale, please quote
+lowest price to The Editor, <i>Tacuru</i> Office.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h3>Monday, April 4th, 1910.</h3>
+
+<p>The Editor and Staff of &quot;The Tacuru&quot; announce with great regret the
+unavoidable demise of the journal known and respected by all as &quot;The
+Tacuru.&quot; This valuable and instructive periodical has become a necessity
+to every happy home. The Editor hoped long to continue his beneficent
+task of bringing a daily joy into the lives of all English-speaking and
+reading people; but, alas, just as he bore &quot;his blushing honours thick
+upon him,&quot; there came a flood, an awful flood, and carried away his
+hopes and printing press (we believe some people were drowned, too).
+Therefore we must, perforce, bid our readers<a name="Page_277"></a> &quot;farewell, a long
+farewell.&quot; Though not, we hope, for ever. Printing presses are not
+unique, and some day, in the land of civilisation, we hope to be able to
+make our loss good and bring happiness and information once more to
+countless millions. In case any of our readers would like to erect a
+monument of gratitude to &quot;The Tacuru,&quot; in memory of the enjoyment, or
+otherwise, this paper has brought into their lives, we would mention
+that the printing-press and a few lives were lost on the way to Olmos.
+We are able to publish a photo of extreme interest, depicting the
+counting of the loss after the deluge. With this, and our deepest
+regrets, we must pause, trusting that some day our great work may be
+renewed under similarly happy circumstances, by the same staff, to whom,
+and to all contributors, willing or unwilling, a thousand thanks.</p>
+
+<a name="Awful_Flood"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image38.png" width="457" height="408" alt="&quot;Awful Flood.&quot;" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>&quot;Awful Flood.&quot;</h4>
+
+<a name="On_the_Way_to_Olmos"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image39.png" width="465" height="412" alt="On the Way to Olmos." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>On the Way to Olmos.</h4>
+
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14366 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #14366 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/14366)
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+Project Gutenberg's Argentina From A British Point Of View, by Various
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Argentina From A British Point Of View
+
+Author: Various
+
+Release Date: December 16, 2004 [EBook #14366]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARGENTINA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Susan Skinner and the PG Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW
+
+AND
+
+NOTES ON ARGENTINE LIFE.
+
+
+
+With Photographs and Diagrams.
+
+
+EDITED BY
+CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.
+
+
+LONDON:
+WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO.,
+CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, E.C
+1910.
+
+
+PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO., CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, LONDON,
+E.C
+
+
+DEDICATED To _all_ THE SHAREHOLDERS OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY,
+LIMITED, _who take a real interest in the Company_.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+In May last I was asked to read, towards the end of the year, a paper on
+Argentina, before the Royal Society of Arts. The task of compiling that
+paper was one of absorbing interest to me; and though I fully realise
+how inadequately I have dealt with so interesting a subject, I venture
+to think that the facts and figures which the paper contains may be of
+interest to some, at any rate, of the Shareholders of the Santa Fé Land
+Company. It is upon this supposition that it is published.
+
+Whilst I was obtaining the latest information for the paper (which was
+read before the Royal Society of Arts on November 30th, 1910), several
+members of the staff of the Santa Fé Land Company aided me by writing
+some useful and interesting notes on subjects connected with Argentina,
+and also giving various experiences which they had undergone whilst
+resident there. I am indebted to the writers for many hints on life in
+Argentina, and as I think that others will find the reading of the notes
+as engaging as I did, they are now reproduced just as I received them,
+and incorporated with my own paper in a book of which they form by no
+means the least interesting part.
+
+The final portion of the book--Leaves from a journal entitled "The
+Tacuru"--is written in a lighter vein. It describes a trip through some
+of the Northern lands of the Santa Fé Land Company, and it is included
+because, although frankly humorous, it contains much really useful
+information and many capital illustrations, I should, however, mention
+that this journal was written by members of the expedition, and was
+originally intended solely for their own private edification and
+amusement; therefore all the happier phases of the trip are noted; but I
+can assure my English readers that the trip, well though it was planned,
+was not all luxury.
+
+To the many who have helped me in this work I tender my most sincere
+thanks.
+
+CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.
+
+     LAWFORD PLACE,
+        MANNINGTREE, ESSEX,
+            _December, 1910_.
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                   PAGE
+
+ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW                1
+
+HISTORY OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY, LIMITED        33
+
+THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA                       45
+
+REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE   51
+
+SOME EXPERIENCE OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS              57
+
+THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE                         69
+
+CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE                            75
+
+HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE                        79
+
+SUNDAYS IN CAMP                                      87
+
+THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA                     91
+
+POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY                               97
+
+A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO                       107
+
+WORK IN THE WOODS                                   119
+
+CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS                          125
+
+MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN                                131
+
+DUST AND OTHER STORMS                               141
+
+LOCUSTS                                             147
+
+CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC            155
+
+ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901                   161
+
+PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES                185
+
+JUST MY LUCK!                                       193
+
+"THE TACURU"                                        199
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS.
+
+
+                                               FACING PAGE
+
+CATTLE TRAIN ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY,
+BRINGING CATTLE TO BARRANCOSA                           39
+
+LOADING WHEAT AT ROSARIO FROM THE "BARRANCA"            40
+
+SAN CRISTOBAL ESTANCIA HOUSE                            41
+
+WATERING-PLACE AT BARRANCOSA                            42
+
+WOOD ON THE COMPANY'S OWN LINE READY FOR LOADING        43
+
+LOADING TIMBER AT WAYSIDE STATION                       44
+
+WHEAT READY FOR LOADING AT STATION ON CENTRAL
+ARGENTINE RAILWAY                                       48
+
+THE MAKER OF LAND VALUES                                50
+
+TENNIS PARTY AT VERA                                    73
+
+CARNIVAL AT VERA                                        77
+
+"A DAY OF REAL ENJOYMENT"                               90
+
+SQUARE QUEBRACHO LOGS WORKED BY THE AXEMAN, SHOWING
+RESIN OOZING THEREFROM                                 134
+
+LOADING WHEAT AT THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES              187
+
+HORSES AWAITING INSPECTION                             209
+
+STACKING ALFALFA                                       210
+
+ALFALFA ELEVATOR AT WORK                               211
+
+THE GREEN FIELDS OF ALFALFA                            212
+
+HERD OF CATTLE                                         215
+
+EXPANSE OF ALFALFA                                     221
+
+DISC-PLOUGH AT WORK                                    222
+
+ROADMAKER AND RAILROAD BUILDER                         223
+
+PLOUGHING VIRGIN CAMP                                  226
+
+HART-PARR ENGINE, DRAWING ROADMAKER                    228
+
+CATTLE LEAVING DIP                                     233
+
+CROSSING THE SALADO                                    240
+
+THE EFFECT OF A LONG DROUGHT                           241
+
+REFINED CAMPS                                          242
+
+"RICH BLACK ALLUVIAL SOIL"                             251
+
+WATER KNEE-DEEP                                        265
+
+QUEBRACHO COLORADO TREE                                266
+
+SLEEPERS AWAITING TRANSPORT AT VERA                    267
+
+TANNIN EXTRACT FACTORY                                 268
+
+SOME OF THE HORSES                                     271
+
+"AWFUL FLOOD"                                          276
+
+ON THE WAY TO OLMOS                                    277
+
+
+
+LIST OF DIAGRAMS.
+
+                                               FACING PAGE
+
+IMMIGRATION RETURNS                                      2
+
+AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION                                14
+
+CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES                             15
+
+VALUE IN £ STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF
+ARGENTINA, 1900-09                                      22
+
+
+
+
+ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW.
+
+
+Argentina, which does not profess to be a manufacturing country,
+exported in 1909 material grown on her own lands to the value of
+£79,000,000, and imported goods to the extent of £60,000,000. This fact
+arrests our attention, and forces us to recognise that there is a trade
+balance of nearly 20 millions sterling in her favour, and to realise the
+saving power of the country.
+
+It is not mere curiosity which prompts us to ask: "Are these £79,000,000
+worth of exports of any value to us? Do we consume any of them? Do we
+manufacture any of them? And do we send any of this same stuff back
+again after it has been dealt with by our British artisans?" It would be
+difficult to follow definitely any one article, but upon broad lines the
+questions are simple and can be easily answered. Amongst the
+agricultural exports we find wheat, oats, maize, linseed, and flour. The
+value placed upon these in 1908 amounted to £48,000,000, and England
+pays for and consumes nearly 42 per cent. of these exports. Other goods,
+such as frozen beef, chilled beef, mutton, pork, wool, and articles
+which may be justly grouped as the results of the cattle and sheep
+industry, amounted to no less a figure than £23,000,000. All these
+exports represent foodstuffs or other necessities of life, and are
+consumed by those nations which do not produce enough from their own
+soil to keep their teeming populations. Another export which is worthy
+of particular mention comes from the forests, viz., quebracho, which, in
+the form of logs and extract, was exported in 1908 to the value of
+£1,200,000. The value of material of all sorts sent from England to
+Argentina in 1908 was £16,938,872 (this figure includes such things as
+manufactured woollen goods, leather goods, oils, and paints), therefore
+it is clear that we have, and must continue to take, a practical and
+financial interest in the welfare and prosperity of Argentina.
+
+New countries cannot get on without men willing and ready to exploit
+Nature's gifts, and, naturally, we look to the immigration returns when
+considering Argentina's progress. To give each year's return for the
+last 50 years would be wearisome, but, taking the average figures for
+ten-year periods from 1860 to 1909, we have the following interesting
+table. (The figures represent the balance of those left in the country
+after allowing for emigration):--
+
+                                  Yearly Average.
+From 1860 to 1869 (inclusive)   ...  15,044
+  "  1870  " 1879   "           ...  29,462
+  "  1880  " 1889   "           ...  84,586
+  "  1890  " 1899   "           ...  43,618
+  "  1900  " 1909   "           ... 100,998
+
+Sixty-five per cent. of the immigrants are agricultural labourers, who
+soon find work in the country, and again add their quota to the
+increasing quantity and value of materials to be exported. Facing this
+page is a diagram of the Immigration Returns from 1857 to 1909.
+
+Nature has been lavish in her gifts to Argentina, and man has taken
+great advantage of these gifts. My desire now is to show what has been
+done in the way of developing agriculture in this richly-endowed country
+during the last fifty years. One name which should never be forgotten in
+Argentina is that of William Wheelwright, whose entrance into active
+life in Buenos Aires was not particularly dignified; in 1826 he was
+shipwrecked at the mouth of the River Plate, and struggled on
+barefooted, hatless and starving to the small town of Quilmes.
+
+[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF IMMIGRATION RETURNS.
+
+NOTE:--IN THE YEARS 1888, 1889 & 1890 THE ARGENTINE GOVERNMENT ASSISTED
+PASSAGES.]
+
+Mr. Wheelwright was an earnest and far-seeing man, and his knowledge of
+railways in the United States helped him to realise their great
+possibilities in Argentina; but, strange to say, upon his return to his
+native land he could not impress any of those men who afterwards became
+such great "Railway Kings" in the U.S.A. Failing to obtain capital for
+Argentine railway development in his own country, Wheelwright came to
+England, and interested Thomas Brassey, whose name was then a household
+word amongst railway pioneers. These two men associated themselves with
+Messrs. Ogilvie & Wythes, forming themselves into the firm of Brassey,
+Ogilvie, Wythes & Wheelwright, whose first work was the building of a
+railway 17,480 kilometres long between Buenos Aires and Quilmes in 1863;
+afterwards they built the line from Rosario to Cordova, which is
+embodied to-day in the Central Argentine Railway. Other railways were
+projected, and this policy of progress and extension of the steel road
+still holds good in Argentina.
+
+The year 1857 saw the first railway built, from Buenos Ayres to Flores,
+5,879 kilometres long; in 1870 there were 457 miles of railroad; in 1880
+the railways had increased their mileage to 1,572; in 1890 Argentina
+possessed 5,895 miles of railway, and in 1900 there were 10,352 miles.
+
+The rapid increase in railway mileage during the last nine years is as
+follows:--
+
+In 1901 there were 10,565 miles of railway.
+ " 1902  "     "   10,868   "    "    "
+ " 1903  "     "   11,500   "    "    "
+ " 1904  "     "   12,140   "    "    "
+ " 1905  "     "   12,370   "    "    "
+ " 1906  "     "   12,850   "    "    "
+ " 1907  "     "   13,829   "    "    "
+ " 1908  "     "   14,825   "    "    "
+ " 1909  "     "   15,937[A]"    "    "
+
+12,000 of which are owned by English companies, representing a capital
+investment of £170,000,000.
+
+In other words, for the last forty years Argentina has built railways
+at the rate of over a mile a day, and in 1907, 1908, and 1909 her
+average rate per day was nearly three miles. This means that owing to
+the extension of railways during this last year alone, over a million
+more acres of land could have been given up to the plough if suitable
+for the cultivation of corn.
+
+When William Wheelwright first visited Argentina it was little more than
+an unknown land, whose inhabitants had no ambition, and no desire to
+acquire wealth--except at the expense of broken heads. There was a
+standard of wealth, but it lay in the number of cattle owned; land was
+of little value, save for feeding cattle, and therefore counted for
+naught, but cattle could be boiled down for tallow; bones and hides were
+also marketable commodities; the man, therefore, who possessed cattle
+possessed wealth.
+
+The opening out of the country by railways soon changed the aspect of
+affairs. The man who possessed cattle was no longer considered the rich
+man; it was he who owned leagues of land upon which wheat could be grown
+who became the potentially rich man; he, by cutting up his land and
+renting it to the immigrants, who were beginning to flock in in an
+endless stream to the country, found that riches were being accumulated
+for him without much exertion on his part. He took a risk inasmuch as he
+received payment in kind only. Therefore, when the immigrants did well,
+so did he, and as many thousands of immigrants have become rich, it
+follows that the land proprietors have become immensely so. It was the
+railways which created this possibility, and endowed the country by
+rendering it practicable to grow corn where cattle only existed before,
+but many Argentines to-day forget what they owe to the railway pioneers;
+it is the railways, and the railways only, which render the splendid and
+yearly increasing exports possible.
+
+In 1858 cattle formed 25 per cent. of the total wealth of Argentina, but
+in 1885 cattle only represented 18 per cent. of the total wealth,
+railways having made it possible during those thirty years to utilise
+lands for other purposes than cattle-feeding. Let it be clearly
+understood, the total value of cattle had not decreased; far from that,
+the cattle had increased in value during the above period to the extent
+of £48,000,000, and to-day cattle, sheep, horses, mules, pigs, goats and
+asses represent a value of nearly £130,000,000. The following table
+shows how great the improvement has been in Argentine animals:--
+
+                                             Per Head.
+Cattle in 1885 were valued at an average of  $13[B]
+   "      1908        "      "      "         32
+Sheep  in 1885        "      "      "          2
+   "      1908        "      "      "          4
+Horses in 1885        "      "      "         11
+          1908        "      "      "         25
+
+Notwithstanding these increased valuations per head, and the larger
+number of animals in the country, the value created by man's labour far
+outweighs the increased value of mere breeding animals.
+
+Next to the railways the improvements in shipping have helped the
+development of Argentina; the shipping trade of Buenos Aires has
+increased at the rate of one million tons per annum for the past few
+years, and the entries into the port form an interesting and instructive
+table:
+
+The following statement gives the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires from 1880 to 1909, and will more clearly show the
+increase and advance made in the last thirty years. These figures
+include both steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well as foreign
+trade:--
+
+                Tons.
+1880  ...    644,750
+1881  ...    827,072
+1882  ...    995,597
+1883  ...  1,207,321
+1884  ...  1,782,382
+1885  ...  2,200,779
+1886  ...  2,408,323
+1887  ...  3,369,057
+1888  ...  3,396,212
+1889  ...  3,804,037
+1890  ...  4,507,096
+1891  ...  4,546,729
+1892  ...  5,475,942
+1893  ...  6,177,818
+1894  ...  6,686,123
+1895  ...  6,894,834
+1896  ...  6,115,547
+1897  ...  7,365,547
+1898  ...  8,051,045
+1899  ...  8,741,934
+1900  ...  8,047,010
+1901  ...  8,661,300
+1902  ...  8,902,605
+1903  ... 10,269,298
+1904  ... 10,424,615
+1905  ... 11,467,954
+1906  ... 12,448,219
+1907  ... 13,335,733
+1908  ... 15,465,417
+1909  ... 16,993,973
+
+In 1897, out of the total number of steamers that entered Buenos Aires,
+viz., 901, with a tonnage of 2,342,391; 519, with a tonnage of
+1,327,571, were British. Taking the year 1909 we find that 2,008
+steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the port of Buenos Aires from
+foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542, and 1,978 steamers and 129
+sailing-vessels left the port for foreign shores with a tonnage of
+5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead with 2,242 steamers and 37
+sailing-vessels, or say 53-1/2 per cent. of the total. Germany comes
+next with 456 steamers and 2 sailing-vessels, or say 10-3/4 per cent, of
+the total. Italy with 307 steamers and 67 sailing-vessels is next, and
+then France with 264 steamers. The total number of steamers that entered
+and left the port from local and foreign ports is 13,485, with a tonnage
+of 14,481,526, and 20,264 sailing-vessels with 2,512,447 tons, which
+make up the amount of 16,993,973 tons, as shown above.
+
+In the year 1884 the experiment of freezing beef, killed in Buenos
+Aires, and shipping it to Europe was first tried. That was successful,
+but an immense improvement was made when the process of chilling became
+the common means by which meat could be exported. The frozen beef trade
+in Argentina has had a wonderful development; it commenced in 1884, and
+the export of chilled meat has progressed steadily at the rate of 25,000
+beeves yearly, until, in 1908, it reached the enormous quantity of
+573,946 beeves, or 180,000 tons. Frozen mutton has remained
+comparatively steady, and has only increased by 38,000 tons in
+twenty-two years, or from 2,000,000 sheep frozen in 1886 to 3,297,667 in
+1908, whilst "jerked beef," which was mostly sent to Cuba and Brazil,
+has fallen from 50,000 tons per annum to 6,651 tons. The value of frozen
+and preserved meats exported in 1908 was £5,233,948.
+
+The value of live-stock in Argentina in 1908 was made up as follows:--
+
+Cattle  ... ... ... £82,000,000
+Sheep   ... ... ...  25,000,000
+Horses  ... ... ...  18,000,000
+Mules   ... ... ...   2,000,000
+Pigs    ... ... ...   1,368,000
+Goats and Asses ...   1,000,000
+
+A few years ago it was common on an estancia feeding 50,000 or 60,000
+cattle to find the household using canned Swiss milk. To-day 425,000
+litres of milk are brought into the city of Buenos Aires each day for
+consumption, and no less than two tons of butter, one ton of cream, and
+three tons of cheese are used there daily. Argentina also exports
+butter. This trade has sprung up entirely within the last fourteen
+years, and in 1908 she exported 3,549 tons of butter, the value of which
+was £283,973.
+
+Until 1876 Argentina imported wheat for home consumption; in that year,
+when for many years past agricultural labourers had been arriving at an
+average of 25,000 per annum, she began to export wheat with a modest
+shipment of 5,000 tons. Thirty years later the export had mounted up to
+2,247,988 tons, and in 1908 the wheat exported amounted to 3,636,293
+tons, and was valued at £25,768,520. Agricultural colonies had sprung up
+everywhere, and cattle became of second-rate importance; to-day the
+value of the exports of corn, which term includes wheat, barley, maize,
+oats, etc., is more than double that of cattle and cattle products. It
+is interesting to follow the evolution wrought by labour, intelligence,
+and capital in the prairie lands of Argentina. First, let us note the
+developments on those wonderful tracts of splendid prairie lands lying
+between the River Plate and the Andes: fifty years ago these lands were
+of little account, and only a few cattle were to be found roaming about
+them, but upon the advance of the railway they came under the plough,
+and, without much attention or care, produced wheat and maize. After a
+time improvements in the method of cultivation produced a better return,
+and to-day a great deal of attention is paid to the preparing of the
+land, and thought and care are given to the seed time, the growing, and
+the harvest. When it is found desirable to rest the land after crops of
+wheat and maize, etc., alfalfa is grown thereon. Alfalfa is one of the
+clover tribe, and has the peculiar property of attaching to itself those
+micro-organisms which are able to fix the nitrogen in the air and render
+it available for plant food. Every colonist knows the value of alfalfa
+for feeding his animals, but it is not every colonist who knows why this
+plant occupies such a high place amongst feeding stuffs. Alfalfa is
+easily grown, very strong when established, and, provided its roots can
+get to water, will go on growing for years. The _raison d'être_ for
+growing alfalfa is for the feeding of cattle and preparing them for
+market, and for this purpose a league of alfalfa (6,177 acres metric
+measurement) will carry on an average 3,500 head. When grown for dry
+fodder it produces three or four crops per annum and a fair yield is
+from 6 to 8 tons per acre of dry alfalfa for each year. A ton of such
+hay is worth about $20 to $30, and after deducting expenses there is a
+clear return of about $14 per acre.
+
+The figures supplied by one large company are interesting; they show
+that, on an average, cattle, when placed upon alfalfa lands, improve in
+value at the rate of $2.00 per head per month, so it is easy to place a
+value on its feeding properties. Thus, we will take a camp under alfalfa
+capable of carrying 10,000 head of cattle all the year round, where as
+the fattened animals are sold off an equal number is bought to replace
+them. Such a camp would bring in a clear profit of $200,000 per annum,
+and the property should be worth £175,000 sterling. An animal that has
+been kept all its life on rough camp, and, when too old for breeding, is
+placed for the first time on alfalfa lands, fattens extremely quickly,
+and the meat is tender and in quality compares favourably with any other
+beef. No business in Argentina of the same importance has shown such
+good returns as cattle breeding, and these results have been chiefly
+brought about by the introduction of alfalfa, and a knowledge of the
+life history of alfalfa is of the greatest importance to the cattle
+farmer. All cereal crops take from the soil mineral matter and nitrogen.
+Therefore, after continuous cropping the land becomes exhausted and
+generally poorer; experience has taught us that rotation of crops is a
+necessity to alleviate the strain on the soil, and such an axiom has
+this become that in many cases English landlords insist that their
+leases shall contain a clause binding the tenants to grow certain stated
+crops in rotation.
+
+This system is known in England as the four-course shift. Knowledge
+gained by successive generations of observant farmers has given us the
+key to what Nature had hitherto kept to herself, and to-day we know why
+the plan adopted by our forefathers was right, and why the rotation of
+crops was, and is, a necessity. Men of science are devoting their lives
+to the systematic study of Nature's hidden secrets, and by means of
+Agricultural Colleges, as well as private individual research, these
+discoveries are being given to mankind, and long before the soils of
+Argentina show any serious loss of nitrogen from continuous cropping,
+science will probably have established means of applying in a practical
+manner those methods already known of propagating the
+nitrogen-collecting bacteria which thrive on alfalfa, clover, peas, soya
+beans, and other leguminous plants. Almost every country is now devoting
+time, money, and energy to agricultural research work. In 1908 the
+Agricultural College at Ontario prepared no less than 474 packages of
+Legume Bacteria, and in 309 cases beneficial results followed from the
+application thereof to the soil; in 165 cases no improvements in the
+crops were noticed, this may, however, have been due to the want of
+knowledge of how to manipulate the bacteria, or to lack of experience in
+noting effects scientifically, but in any case the experiment must be
+considered successful when the results obtained were satisfactory in no
+less than 65 per cent. of the trials. No greater factor exists than the
+microscope in opening up and hunting out the secrets concealed in the
+very soil we are standing on.
+
+If soils were composed of nothing but pure silica sand, nothing would
+ever grow; but in Nature we find that soils contain all sorts of mineral
+matter, and chief amongst these is lime.
+
+Alfalfa thrives on land which contains lime, and gives but poor results
+where this ingredient is deficient. The explanation is simple. There is
+a community of interest between the very low microscopic animal life,
+known as bacteria, and plant life generally. In every ounce of soil
+there are millions of these living germs which have their allotted work
+to do, and they thrive best in soils containing lime.
+
+If one digs up with great care a root of alfalfa (it need not be an old
+plant, the youngest plant will show the same peculiarity), and care is
+taken in exposing the root (perhaps the best method is the washing away
+of the surrounding earth by water), some small nodules attached to the
+fine, hair-like roots are easily distinguished by the naked eye, and
+these nodules are the home of a teeming, microscopical, industrious
+population, who perform their allotted work with the silent, persistent
+energy so often displayed in Nature. Men of science have been able to
+identify at least three classes of these bacteria, and to ascertain the
+work accomplished by each. The reason for their existence would seem to
+be that one class is able to convert the nitrogen in the air into
+ammonia, whilst others work it into nitrite, and the third class so
+manipulate it as to form a nitrate which is capable of being used for
+plant food.
+
+Now, although one ton of alfalfa removes from the soil 50 lb. of
+nitrogen, yet that crop leaves the soil richer in nitrogen, because the
+alfalfa has encouraged the multiplication of those factories which
+convert some of the thousands of tons of nitrogen floating above the
+earth into substance suitable for food for plant life. As a dry fodder
+for cattle three tons of alfalfa contains as much nutrition as two tons
+of wheat.
+
+The cost of growing alfalfa greatly depends upon the situation of the
+land to be dealt with; also upon whether labour is plentiful or not;
+but, in order to give some idea of the advantage of growing this cattle
+food, we will imagine the intrinsic value of the undeveloped land to be
+£4,000, upon which, under existing conditions, it would be possible to
+keep 1,000 head of animals, whereas if this same land were under alfalfa
+3,000 to 3,500 animals would be fattened thereon, and the land would
+have increased in value to £20,000 or £30,000.
+
+Now, if the undeveloped land is to be improved, it becomes necessary
+either to work it yourself, with your own men, in which case you must
+provide ploughs, horses, bullocks, etc., or to carry out the plan
+usually adopted, that of letting the land to colonists who have had some
+experience in this class of work. Usually a colonist will undertake to
+cultivate from 500 to 600 acres, and agrees to pay to the landowner
+anything from 10 per cent. to 30 per cent. of his crops according to the
+distance of the land from the railway. The colonist brings his
+agricultural tackle along with him, and establishes his house (usually a
+most primitive affair), digs his well, and then proceeds to plough. In
+this work the whole family joins; the father leads the way, followed by
+the eldest child, and all the others in rotation, with the wife bringing
+up the rear; she keeps a maternal eye upon the little mite, who with
+great gusto and terrific yells manages somehow to cling to the plough
+and to do his or her share with the rest. Is it to be wondered at that
+work progresses fast under these conditions? There is but one idea
+prevalent in the family, namely, that time and opportunity are with
+them.
+
+The first crop grown on newly-broken ground is usually maize; the second
+year's crop is linseed, and perhaps a third year's crop--probably
+wheat--is grown by the colonist before the land is handed back to the
+owner ready to be put down in alfalfa. The colonist's cultivation of the
+land will have effectually killed off the natural rough grasses which
+would otherwise grow up and choke the alfalfa. Sometimes the alfalfa is
+sown with the colonist's last crop, and in such cases the landowner
+finds the alfalfa seed, and during the sowing of this crop it is very
+advisable that either he or his agent should be in constant attendance,
+because the after results greatly depend upon the care with which the
+seeding has been done. When the colonist's contract is completed he
+moves on to another part, and the owner, who has year by year received a
+percentage of the crops, takes back his land. Considerable outlay has
+now to be made in fences, wells, and buildings; the more there are of
+these the better, the land will carry a larger head of cattle and the
+control of them is easy when the camp has been properly divided.
+
+The colonists are generally Italians. They are an industrious and kindly
+people, hardy and quiet, well content with their surroundings, careful
+and frugal in their living, and many thousands could go back to their
+own country with wealth which has been acquired by constant and
+assiduous attention to the economies of life.
+
+It has often been said that an Englishman will starve where an Italian
+will thrive, and in some respects this is true; but it would be better
+expressed if it were stated that an Italian can adapt himself to
+circumstances better than an Englishman. At the same time, I doubt if an
+Italian would come off best were the two placed on a desert island where
+instantaneous action, grit, and endurance were called for.
+
+Many things are said of an Englishman, and none fits his character
+better than that which gives him the privilege of "grumbling," and this
+characteristic becomes more marked when he is able to grumble with one
+of his own kith and kin. I have heard Argentines praise Englishmen, who,
+they say, manage their estancias far and away beyond all others, but at
+the same time they have told me that they would never allow two
+Englishmen on their place at once.
+
+It has been said that many of the immigrants do not intend to settle in
+the country. Probably this idea has gained ground on account of the
+large numbers of the labouring population, who are attracted to
+Argentina by the high wages ruling during the harvest time, and then
+find it pays them to go home and secure the European harvest, but
+generally these men come out again to stay. They have acquired a
+knowledge of the country, and often enough have also acquired an
+interest in some land, and they return, bringing their families, to
+adopt Argentina as their home--for a period at least.
+
+A glance at the statistics prepared by the authorities in Buenos Aires
+shows that during the last fifty-two years 4,250,980 persons entered as
+immigrants, and out of this number only 1,690,783 returned, leaving in
+the country 2,560,197 individuals, or an average of 50,000 workers per
+annum. These figures have become even more marked of recent years.
+Taking the last five years, the country has received on an average
+249,000 immigrants per annum; of these, 103,000 went back. In other
+words, 727,670 have made their homes within the borders of Argentina
+during the past five years, and of these at least 500,000 were
+agriculturists.
+
+It is not to be wondered at, then, that the exports, chiefly made up of
+agricultural produce, have shown extraordinary progress. Facing this
+page is a diagram showing the agricultural exportation from 1900 to
+1908.
+
+[Illustration: AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION INCLUDING WHEAT, LINSEED, OATS,
+MAIZE, ETC.]
+
+[Illustration: CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES. (1 HECTARE = 2.471 ACRES)]
+
+Nothing can be more eloquent than the figures shown in this diagram.
+This remarkable progress, almost steady in its upward march, is not in
+one direction only. Argentina is an ideal country for agriculturists,
+and in every branch of that industry progress has been made. Greater
+care is being taken to-day in working up the by-products of the cattle
+business. More varied crops are being grown, and vegetable by-products
+are being economically looked after. The forests of Argentina are also
+being worked for the benefit of mankind. The Quebracho Colorado tree
+forms a very important item of export. It is sent out of the country
+either in the form of logs, of which no less than 254,571 tons were
+exported in 1908, or in the form of an extract for tanning purposes;
+48,162 tons of this extract were made and exported in 1908, and a small
+quantity of the wood was exported in the shape of sawdust. The total
+value of Quebracho Colorado exported in various forms in that year was,
+as already stated, £1,200,000. This means that the Quebracho forests are
+being depleted at the rate of half a million tons per annum for export
+purposes alone, in addition to the enormous quantities used for
+sleepers, etc., in the country.
+
+The area in acres under cultivation for the year 1908 was 46,174,250, an
+increase of 265 per cent, on the land under cultivation in the year
+1895.
+
+The diagram facing this page shows the area in hectares cultivated from
+1897 to 1908:--
+
+WHEAT--The area under cultivation for wheat shows an increase of 89 per
+cent, in ten years from--
+
+8,000,000 acres in cultivation in 1898, to
+15,157,750  "   "       "      "  1908
+
+LINSEED--shows an increase of 361 per cent, from--
+
+831,972 acres in cultivation in 1898, to
+3,835,750 "   "       "      "  1908
+
+MAIZE--increased by 250 per cent., and other crops, including Oats, 300
+per cent. in the same period.
+
+The United Kingdom purchased from Argentina and retained for its own use
+(in round figures) during the year 1908--
+
+WHEAT       to the value of £13,000,000
+MAIZE          "       "      5,600,000
+FROZEN MEAT    "       "      9,300,000
+                            -----------
+          Making a total of £27,900,000
+                            -----------
+
+Indeed, we buy from Argentina nearly 25 per cent. of our total food
+purchased abroad, and she supplies nearly 29 per cent. of our corn and
+grain requirements. These figures again clearly demonstrate that we have
+a vital interest in the well-being of our friends across the sea.
+
+In every direction Argentina has progressed, and judging from the past
+we may look with confidence to the future; the total area of the
+Republic is 776,064,000 acres, and certainly it is within the bounds of
+reasonable forecast to consider that 100,000,000 acres of this land will
+be, when opened up by railways, and other facilities, available for
+corn-growing. To-day only one-fifth of this available area is being
+cultivated, and another 43,000,000 acres are being utilised for feeding
+purposes; thus, only 63,000,000 out of 776,000,000 acres are being
+occupied. The chief reason why more is not utilised is because there is
+not sufficient labour available.
+
+  Argentina                   has   5    inhabitants per square mile.
+  Russia                       "   18         "             "
+  Canada, Newfoundland, etc.   "    1-1/2     "             "
+  Australia                    "    1-1/3     "             "
+  U. Kingdom                   "  364         "             "
+  Belgium                      "  625         "             "
+  Germany                      "  290         "             "
+
+Not only is there an enormous tract of land lying dormant, but the
+productive power of land now under cultivation may be vastly increased
+if farmers will devote their attention to improving the conditions of
+cultivation. 11.3 bushels of wheat per acre is not high-class farming,
+yet this is the average production for Argentina. Manitoba in 1908
+produced 13-1/2 bushels per acre, Saskatchewan, 17 bushels. In the
+fourteenth century England only produced 10 bushels per acre, but we
+have improved this yield to 30 bushels, while Roumania has increased her
+yield from 15 bushels per acre in 1890, to 23 bushels in 1908. France
+has increased her yield from 17 bushels in 1884, to 20 bushels in 1908.
+Germany has increased her yield per acre from 20 bushels in 1899, to 30
+bushels in 1908. So that we may not only look forward to a greater area
+being placed under cultivation, but we may reasonably expect heavier
+crops, if land proprietors will bring science to bear on their work of
+development. Indeed, with land rising in price, with an increasing
+influx of immigrants, and with more intelligent cultivation of the soil,
+the land must of necessity give a far larger yield than it has done
+heretofore.
+
+The following tables, taken from the Board of Trade returns, show from
+whence England draws some of her supplies. They also show how
+prominently Argentina figures as a food producer. The first table
+includes corn and meat; the second gives corn alone, and the third meat
+alone:--
+
+FOOD IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.
+
+CORN (including wheat, barley, oats, rye,
+  buckwheat, peas, beans, maize, wheatmeal,
+  flour, oatmeal, and offals)                 £71,103,487
+
+MEAT, fresh and frozen  (including animals
+for food)                                      48,704,613
+
+                                  Total      £119,808,100
+
+Of this--
+
+                                   £          Per Cent.
+    Argentina supplied         29,569,773 or   24.68
+    U.S.A. supplied            38,229,135 or   31.90
+    Russia supplied             7,394,607 or    6.18
+    Canada supplied            11,907,203 or    9.94
+    Australia (including
+     Tasmania) supplied         4,520,244 or    3.77
+    Other Colonies and Foreign
+     Countries supplied        28,187,138 or   23.53
+
+                             £119,808,100 or  100.00
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CORN IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.
+
+                   Argentina.  U.S.A.    Russia.    Canada.  Australia
+                                                            (including
+                                                            Tasmania).
+
+
+                       £          £         £          £         £
+Wheat     ... ... | 13,096,812 10,779,221 2,286,180  6,335,329 2,402,988
+                  |
+Barley    ... ... |     22,943    733,446 2,622,005    205,697     --
+                  |
+Oats      ... ... |  1,463,368      --    1,144,387      6,441     --
+                  |
+Rye       ... ... |      --       129,691    93,066     49,009     --
+                  |
+Buckwheat ... ... |      --         --        6,677      --        --
+                  |
+Peas      ... ... |      --        38,545    42,279    105,495     2,345
+                  |
+Beans (not fresh, |
+other than Haricot|
+Beans)   ... ...  |      --         --       15,094      --        --
+                  |
+Maize     ... ... |  5,603,463  2,023,576  1,107,858    44,822     --
+                  |
+Wheatmeal         |
+and Flour     ... |     50,597  5,407,119         80   809,479   119,440
+                  |
+Oatmeal and       |
+  Rolled Oats ... |      --       183,334      --      207,516     --
+                  |
+Farinaceous sub-  |
+  stances (except |
+  Starch, Farina, |
+  Dextrine, and   |
+  Potato Flour)   |      --        99,112      --       59,302     --
+                  |
+Bran and Pollard  |     11,932       --         --        --        --
+                  |
+Sharps and        |
+  Middlings       |     35,113       --         --        --        --
+                  |
+Maize Meal        |       --       129,543      --        --        --
+              ----+-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------
+                 £ 20,284,228 | 19,523,587 | 7,317,626 | 7,823,090 | 2,524,773
+              ----------------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------
+Percentage             28.53% |    27.46%  |  10.29%   | 11.00%    | 3.56%
+              ----------------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     Other
+ Colonies and
+    Foreign        Total.
+   Countries.
+
+      £              £
+ 13,630,183[C]   71,103,487
+
+---------------+-------------+
+ 13,630,183    | 71,103,487  |
+---------------+-------------+
+  19.16%       | = 100%      |
+---------------+-------------+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MEAT, including animals for food, and fresh, chilled, frozen and tinned,
+imported into and retained by the United Kingdom in 1908:
+
+                                    £        Per Cent.
+
+Argentina supplied              9,285,545 or   19.07
+U.S.A.       "                 18,705,548 "    38.41
+Russia       "                     76,981 "     0.16
+Canada       "                  4,084,113 "     8.38
+Australia (including Tasmania)
+          supplied              1,995,471 "     4.10
+Other Colonies and Foreign
+Countries supplied[D]          14,556,955 "    29.88
+
+                               48,704,613 "   100.00
+
+
+
+The lesson shown here is one worthy of attention. We see that Argentina
+supplies England with one-fourth of her imported food, and U.S.A.
+supplies nearly one-third. Therefore it behoves both England and
+Argentina to see that America does not so manipulate things that she
+acquires the control over our meat and food supplies.
+
+Argentine authorities should not only exercise the law sanctioned
+February 4th, 1907, concerning the inspection of factories, but they
+should enforce greater care in seeing that all Argentine saladeros and
+packing-houses are manipulated with intense care, and cleanliness should
+be insisted upon; it would be a bad day for Argentina should ever such
+an outcry be raised against her saladeros as that which a few years ago
+was directed against the North American packing houses and for a time
+ruined the canning industry of the United States, and yet we find
+American methods being introduced into Argentina without let or
+hindrance. If our soldiers and sailors are to be fed upon canned meats,
+let those who are responsible for purchasing the food, at least see that
+the food is prepared under healthy and sanitary conditions.
+
+The corn-growing industry of the Argentine Republic is an intensely
+interesting subject. Before railways and steamships brought the foreign
+producer into close competition with our own farmers, Argentina did not
+produce enough grain to supply her home consumption, and cattle were
+bred only for their hides, tallow and bones. In the course of time, when
+steamers superseded sailing-ships and the world's carrying capacity
+thus became enormously increased, Argentina saw her opportunity of
+becoming a keen competitor in the food market. Corn-growing became a
+highly remunerative business, although much still remains to be learned
+concerning the handling of wheat. Both in the States and Canada grain is
+handled in a cheaper and more expeditious manner than in Argentina. An
+enormous amount of grain is dealt with in the Wheat Exchange of
+Winnipeg, but a further big impetus will be given to this industry when
+the wheat-fields of Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba are connected
+with a deep-sea port on Hudson Bay; this will be an accomplished fact in
+1915, and as this route means a thousand miles less haulage by land, and
+eight hundred less by sea to the chief European ports than by any
+existing route, it is bound to become the popular one; the chief factor,
+however, in making it a useful wheat outlet is the established fact that
+Hudson Bay, although many miles north of Lake Superior, remains free
+from ice for a period of one month after Lake Superior is tightly frozen
+up.
+
+Argentina may look forward to keen competition with Canada and Siberia
+for many years to come; on the other hand, the U.S.A. will steadily show
+a smaller quantity of wheat available for exportation, and the following
+table throws some light upon the wheat position:--
+
+Argentina and Uruguay have increased
+  the area of their wheat-growing
+  land brought under the plough in
+  the last ten years by                      124 per cent.
+Canada in the last ten years by              120 per cent.
+Russia in the last ten years by               27 per cent.
+United States in the last ten years by        14 per cent.
+
+No country in the world has shown such wonderful capabilities for
+growing linseed as the Argentine, and her average production for the
+following five-year periods show this expansion:--
+
+Years.        Production in Tons.
+1894-1898           193,000
+1899-1903           382,000
+1904-1908           839,000
+
+In ten years she increased her production by 335 per cent. In the same
+period India increased her production by 3.8 per cent., and North
+America by 105 per cent., whilst Russia was unable to keep up her
+supply.
+
+The world's total linseed production for 1908 was made up as follows:--
+
+Argentina      produced 1,101,000 tons.
+North America  produced   694,000 tons.
+Russia         produced   470,000 tons.
+India          produced   360,000 tons.
+
+Here again we find Argentina leading. Moreover, she exported nearly the
+whole of her production, whilst North America, Russia, and India
+exported less than half a million tons between them.
+
+It is more than probable that by 1920 Argentina will be able to export,
+as the result of agricultural work, more than £100,000,000 worth of
+produce per annum. It is interesting to note that, as the present
+figures reveal, allowing for a population of 6,500,000 and an
+agricultural produce export of £48,335,432, each individual in Argentina
+has sent abroad, after producing enough from the land to keep himself,
+goods to the value of nearly £8.
+
+The diagram facing this page shows what has been accomplished by
+Argentina in the last ten years.
+
+[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF VALUE IN £ STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF
+ARGENTINA 1900-1909.]
+
+In actual money value the exportation of wheat, linseed, oats, maize,
+other grain, flour, bran, and middlings is, in round figures, as
+follows:--
+
+1900   £15,485,000
+1901    14,319,000
+1902    13,634,000
+1903    21,050,000
+1904    30,065,000
+1905    34,047,000
+1906    31,530,000
+1907    32,818,000
+1908    48,335,000
+1909    46,100,000
+
+CATTLE.
+
+The value derived from the cattle industry and its allied produce is of
+great importance to the Argentine Republic. The exports from this
+industry may be divided into four heads, namely:--
+
+LIVE ANIMALS;
+
+RAW PRODUCTS;
+
+MANUFACTURED OR PARTLY MANUFACTURED MATERIAL AND BY-PRODUCTS.
+
+Since the closing of English ports in 1901 to the importation of live
+cattle from Argentina, the trade in the export of live stock has fallen
+off considerably; the total value did not in 1908 amount to more than
+£568,966; Belgium took 65,224 sheep, Chili took 45,114 cattle and 14,394
+sheep, Bolivia took 3,383 head of cattle and 10,676 sheep, and 16,000
+asses and mules, while horses were imported into England, Africa,
+Portugal, Brazil, Uruguay, Chili, Bolivia, and Paraguay.
+
+Exports of raw products, which include frozen and chilled beef and
+mutton, hides, sheepskins, wool, and such things as horsehair, tallow,
+jerked beef, etc., represented a value of £19,549,231 in 1908.
+
+Manufactured or partly manufactured material, including prepared tallow,
+meat extracts, meat, butter, cheese, lard, dressed leather, etc.,
+represented £2,454,760, whilst the by-products, including bones, dried
+blood, guano, waste fats, etc., were valued at £430,734. Thus,
+Argentina's total export from the cattle industry (after supplying her
+own needs) was over £23,000,000.
+
+Argentina's live stock on hand when the last census was taken in May,
+1908, was as follows:--
+
+Cattle ... ... ... 29,116,625
+Sheep  ... ... ... 67,211,758
+Horses ... ... ...  7,531,376
+Mules, swine,
+goats, and asses    6,098,802
+
+representing in value £129,369,628.
+
+The favourite breed of cattle is the Shorthorn, and they comprise 84 per
+cent, of the classified breeding cows; the Herefords only figure out as
+6 per cent., but, undoubtedly, a more careful and complete
+classification will lead to modifications in these figures, for at the
+present time no less than five and a-half million cows are returned as
+Criollo cattle, in other words, unimproved stock.
+
+Not until the year 1885, when it became possible to send frozen meat to
+Europe, did estancieros pay serious attention to growing cattle for meat
+production, and now, with an ever-increasing quantity of land being
+placed under alfalfa, the Argentine Republic is fast becoming the
+leading factor in the production of meat to satisfy the world's
+consumption.
+
+Cattle on the outside fringe of occupied lands are still very coarse and
+rough, with a distinct strain of the Hereford about them; they are,
+however, a useful herd and most suitable for the districts they occupy,
+where they often have to undergo the hardships of shortage of pasture
+owing to drought, and little or no water, indeed, it is a marvel how
+these animals exist at times; and assuredly no refined breed of cattle
+could live where the Criollos not only manage to thrive, but generally
+to return a satisfactory result to their owners. The cattle on ranches
+which are nearer to the seaports, manufacturing centres, or railway
+stations show distinct improvements. Greater care is bestowed upon them,
+and the main consideration is never lost sight of--it is the ambition of
+every estanciero to have his cattle graded up so that they are looked
+upon as "freezers," which means that they are good enough to be
+purchased by one or other of the refrigerating companies, who take
+nothing but the best.
+
+In 1888 cattle running the northern camps (which then represented the
+extreme outlying posts) were only valued at $6 per head.
+
+In 1890 the value had risen to $10 per head.
+ " 1900   "        "     "      15     "
+ " 1908   "        "     "      28     "
+ " 1910   "        "     "      40     "
+
+The question of stock raising and the object to be obtained must rest
+with the owners: they must decide whether the land is to be utilised for
+fattening cattle or for breeding the high-class animals for which there
+is an ever-ready market. To show the enormous value of animals and the
+high standard to which agricultural lands can be brought, mention must
+be made of two estancias near Buenos Aires, viz., those belonging to
+Messrs. Cobo and Messrs. Bell, where splendid stock is always to be
+found. To give some idea of the high price paid for first-class pedigree
+animals, it may be mentioned that £3,800 was paid for a prize Durham
+bull which was sold to Argentina!
+
+At the cattle show at Buenos Aires held in July, 1910, Herefords for
+killing realized from £850 to £1,000 per animal! These latter high
+prices were, however, evidently paid by the agents of Cold Storage
+Companies for advertising purposes. One representative explained that
+the freezing Companies desired to encourage breeders, and that his
+Company paid the high prices mentioned above so as to let the breeders
+know that they would always be paid high prices for first-class cattle.
+
+When we consider the really important position which Argentina takes as
+a food producer, it appears incredible that the English nation (business
+men and the general public alike) is so extremely ignorant, as a rule,
+of prevailing conditions. I do not refer to those who have invested
+their money in the many channels known to the River Plate circle. But
+men holding high official positions speak of our commercial interests in
+Argentina as "something between a hundred and a hundred and fifty
+millions," and then in a whispered side-speech indicate the dangers of
+revolution.
+
+Often it is suggested that the chances of death from small-pox, yellow
+fever, and even from murder are a serious drawback to what might
+otherwise be a country possible to live in. It makes one very indignant
+to hear these statements from the lips of those who probably have never
+left their own country. Let me assure you they may be swept aside, and
+were it not for their frequent reiteration it would be unnecessary to
+say that there is not one grain of truth in these suggestions as applied
+to the state of things to-day.
+
+Nearly one-fifth of the population of Argentina is centred in and around
+Buenos Aires. It is a city of 1,200,000 inhabitants, many of whom are
+millionaires; but at the same time there exists much poverty within its
+precincts--poverty caused in no small degree by the viciousness of the
+rich, but to a far greater extent by the rooted objection of certain
+classes to go out to the camps where, during the harvest time at least,
+wages are high and labour is anxiously awaited.
+
+When we compare the health of this city of Buenos Aires with that of
+other large cities, we can see what has been done in the way of
+improvements in the last few years. A glance at the following tables
+will give some idea of what has been accomplished. The natural increase
+of the population of Buenos Aires between 1898 and 1907 was 19.1 per
+1,000, and no other city equals this.
+
+The increase in London          was  8.8 per  1,000.
+       "        Berlin           "   8.5      "
+       "        New York         "   5.7      "
+       "        St. Petersburg   "   4.6      "
+
+
+The birth-rate of Buenos Aires for 1908 was 34.3 per 1,000.
+      "       "   London           "        25.7
+      "       "   Berlin           "        23.3
+      "       "   New York         "        28.5
+      "       "   St. Petersburg   "        27.5
+
+Both these tables are, however, probably affected by the great number of
+immigrants finding their way to Argentina, many of whom remain in Buenos
+Aires.
+
+The health of the City may be well gauged by the death-rate for the year
+1907.
+
+Buenos Aires stands well with 15.2 per 1,000 inhabitants.
+London has a death-rate of    15.1       "       "
+Berlin       "       "        14.8       "       "
+New York     "       "        18.6       "       "
+St. Petersburg       "        25.7       "       "
+
+(Undoubtedly the high rate shown by the last-named city is greatly due
+to the foul condition of the Neva.)
+
+
+To appreciate thoroughly the position which Buenos Aires now holds, and
+the strides which have been made in regard to the sanitation of the
+City, we have but to look at the past. Between the years 1889 and 1898
+the death-rate per thousand was as high as 22.9 per 1,000; from 1899 to
+1908 it was only 16.6, and now the record stands at 15.2 per 1,000.
+
+The authorities are justly proud of what has been done, and will not
+diminish their efforts so long as there is work to do and problems to
+solve.
+
+I should like to state once more the fact that the United Kingdom
+depends upon Argentina for nearly one-fourth of her food supply
+purchased abroad. I want to impress upon your mind the seriousness of
+the position, for this proportion of one-fourth will be largely
+increased in the near future, for reasons already stated.
+
+The question has often been asked, "Is it safe to buy land in
+Argentina?" But the drift of this query too often is merely
+self-interest; in other words, it really means "Can I successfully
+speculate in land?" Clearly the matter is solely a personal one, no
+other consideration is thought of, so one is tempted to give an evasive
+answer. Should the questioner, however, be a young fellow, with God's
+gift of health and plenty of truth and grit in him, who wants not only
+to acquire the land, but to work it, then, indeed, there is but one
+answer, and that is in the affirmative--let him go, and let him ever
+remember that he is an Englishman and that England is judged by the
+conduct of her sons: but do not let him make the great mistake a
+newcomer so often falls into, which is, that because he is an Englishman
+all other nationalities must be inferior, and that by some sort of
+divine right he has been created lord of all. Let him realise that those
+whom he meets in Argentina are as noble and pure as those he left at
+home. Argentina offers to-day a splendid opening for the best of
+England's sons, but she does not want the loafer nor the ne'er-do-well.
+Can it be wondered at that England's prestige is seriously injured when
+so many of the "wasters," and worse, are sent from the country? It is
+but natural that from these, who go to foreign countries, England is
+judged. To my mind we should send abroad men who are bound to succeed,
+men who never forget that from their behaviour the Mother Country will
+be appraised. Argentina will embrace and reward them, but she will spurn
+and despise the dissolute and drunken.
+
+The advice I would give to all those thinking of trying Argentina as a
+field for agricultural work is to remember that to be successful one
+must begin at the bottom, the harder the school the better will be the
+result: you cannot detect and correct the faults which militate against
+success unless you have been through the mill. Not long ago I sent a boy
+out to Argentina and painted the first two years of learning in the new
+country in rather lurid colours. I explained and dwelt on the
+hardships--indeed, I described it as "a dog's life." Within a year, the
+lad wrote home to his parents and mentioned all that I had told him, but
+finished up by saying, "There's plenty of 'life' about it, but not much
+'dog.'" The truth is that the boy had accepted things as they came along
+and had adapted himself to his surroundings, and, I predict, he will
+never regret having left his home, where opportunities were cramped by
+small surroundings, for the wider field of Argentina.
+
+A great many Englishmen resident in Argentina, whose sons are looking
+forward to finding their life's work in that country, send their boys
+home to England to be educated. Far be it from me to deprecate the
+training acquired by English public school life, but it might well be
+worth while to consider the other phase. The boy who has had his
+schooling in Argentina and goes through his training and passes into one
+of their Universities will have to his credit something which cannot be
+bought by money or influence by boys straight out from home. He will
+have been a fellow student, and worked shoulder to shoulder with men who
+will in due time occupy positions of power and influence, and it is just
+as well to weigh out these things before deciding where to educate your
+boy. A boy born in Argentina, whatever the nationality of his parents
+may be, is by Argentine law an Argentine subject, and should be brought
+up to appreciate that he is liable to be called upon to go through a
+military course: the Argentine boy, who has had just as gentle an
+upbringing as the English boy, is compelled to serve his time in the
+army if called upon, and generally the discipline engendered by this
+training has not only been good for him, but is a distinctly valuable
+asset to the country, and the English boy, as well as a boy of any other
+parentage born in the country, will be obliged to go through this
+military training if required.
+
+I venture to think that were England to adopt compulsory military
+service in some shape or form, we should hear a great deal less of the
+unemployed and "don't-want-work" demonstrations.
+
+To attempt to give a picture of Argentine life is impossible in the
+short time at my disposal. Imagine to yourself, if you can, a country of
+1,212,600 square miles whose borders extend from well within the Tropics
+to away down south to the everlasting snows, embracing all kinds of
+lands, from the very richest of soils to ice-capped and rocky peaks, and
+you must admit that to attempt to describe the various conditions of
+life therein is wellnigh impossible. Life is much what the surrounding
+conditions make it--on the extreme edge of cultivation it is distinctly
+rough, on the inner camps refinement steps in, and in the cities you
+will find just what society you wish. Amongst the cosmopolitan
+population of Buenos Aires there are many men and women of the highest
+culture and education.
+
+There are many Argentines, who stand out prominently from the throng of
+busy pleasure-seekers, who are devoting their lives to improving the
+surroundings of those less fortunate fellow-creatures who have fallen
+upon the thorny path, and whose portion is often the cup of bitterness.
+Indeed, I have ever found the Argentine desirous of helping those who
+seek advice and assistance; but he spurns the foreigner who degrades
+himself and his country by acts of folly which would not be permitted in
+his native land.
+
+Englishmen often fall into the great error of keeping themselves to
+themselves. Possibly this trait is engendered from birth and training by
+our insular position, but it is a great pity to carry it too far, for
+the Argentine people do appreciate the thoroughness of our countrymen,
+and are ready to welcome the right sort. We have taught the Argentines
+many of our national sports and games, and they have entered into them
+with such thoroughness that the teachers have often had to admit that
+the pupil has proved better than the master.
+
+Travelling has become an integral part of the education of the Argentine
+family to-day, and it is quite general to find young children speaking
+fluently four or five languages.
+
+I could wish that those who have Argentine friends would insist upon
+their seeing, when in this country, some of the Englishman's home
+surroundings, for hotel life, theatres, dinners, and music-halls are all
+very well in their way, but to see the real inwardness of English life
+you must follow the Englishman to his country home. My experience is
+that the Argentine will always refuse an invitation to your home at
+first, because of the trouble which he believes you will be put to, but
+don't take "no" for an answer; simply make him come, and he will thank
+you afterwards for his experience of English home life.
+
+Just a word or two, for fear I have left an impression that Argentina is
+the El Dorado which lies beyond the seas. There are such things as
+locusts, floods, droughts, and frosts in that country.
+
+The first of these--locusts--are indeed a plague which to-day it seems
+almost impossible to annihilate, for I have little faith in man's
+attempts effectually to stop or decrease this pestilence; on the other
+hand, Nature always seems to be on the alert to prevent an overthrow of
+the balance of things. Those who have spent their lives in the River
+Plate district have seen this appalling plague crushed by means which
+Nature, in her own good time, has thought fit to use.
+
+With regard to floods and droughts, these can, at least, be modified by
+men, and means are now being adopted to conserve the floods and render
+their waters available in time of drought.
+
+From frosts we seem powerless to defend ourselves, and it is only those
+whose work is in close touch with the growing and handling of crops who
+can fully appreciate the damage done by late frosts.
+
+No country is free from drawbacks of some sort or another, and these
+troubles which I have just mentioned will not prevent the forward march
+of progress in Argentina.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[A] These figures are approximate
+
+[B] The dollar referred to throughout this paper is the Argentine paper
+dollar, which since 1899 has had a fixed value, and is worth
+approximately 1s. 9d. Previous to that date its value fluctuated
+considerably.
+
+[C] A list of the other Colonies and Foreign Countries which largely
+contributed to this total will be found on the following page.
+
+[D] The other colonies and foreign countries which largely contributed
+to the totals mentioned are as follows:--
+
+DENMARK--Barley £22,708 Meat 5,988,573
+
+ROUMANIA--Corn, etc. £2,564,538 Meat nil.
+
+TURKEY (including CRETE)--Corn, etc £1,383,971 Meat nil.
+
+TURKEY, ASIATIC--Corn, etc. £1,344,322 Meat nil.
+
+CHILI--Corn, etc £1,099,660 Meat 10,682
+
+BRITISH INDIA--Corn, etc £2,226,668 Meat nil.
+
+NEW ZEALAND--Corn, etc £30,585 Meat 4,168,649
+
+
+
+
+HISTORY OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY, LIMITED.
+
+In the years 1881 and 1882, Messrs. C. de Murrieta & Co. acquired a
+block of land from the Government of the Province of Santa Fé, and in
+December, 1882, sold one undivided half-share thereof to Messrs. Kohn,
+Reinach & Co. Messrs. Murrieta & Co. and Messrs. Kohn, Reinach & Co.,
+having decided to develop the said lands, formed the Santa Fé Land
+Company, and the prospectus appeared in July, 1883.
+
+The area sold to the new Company was said to comprise about 650 Spanish
+leagues, or 4,336,150 English acres, and the price to be paid to the
+vendors was £1,050 per league.
+
+In order to provide a port of shipment on the Rio Parana the Company
+bought a further lot of 323 acres in the Colony of Romang.
+
+In addition to the original block of land, the Company has since bought
+the following areas:--
+
+The estancia of La Barrancosa, 10,801 hectareas, say      26,678
+
+The estancia of Santa Catalina, 4,049 hectareas, say      10,002
+
+A strip of land at Guaycuru on the eastern boundary
+of the Company's forest lands, 1,636 hectareas, say        4,041
+
+A piece of land at Venado Tuerto, 37 hectareas, say           91
+
+A piece of land at Arrufo, 100 hectareas, say                247
+
+A piece of land at Tostado, 50 hectareas, say                123
+
+                                                          41,182
+
+Since the beginning of the Company the total area of land sold has
+amounted to 709,549 acres (up to 30th June, 1910). It is calculated
+that the land comprised in the Bazan claim, to which reference is made
+later on, measures 582,914 acres. Upon this supposition the Company now
+owns 3,044,100 acres.
+
+The original price paid for the Company's lands worked out at about 3s.
+an acre.
+
+The original capital of the Company was £875,000, of which over £675,566
+was paid to the vendors, leaving a balance of £199,434 to meet the
+preliminary expenses and the initial cost of opening up the new
+properties. After some years it was found necessary to write off a
+portion of the capital, and accordingly, in 1897, the Company's lands
+were re-valued at approximately 2s. 9d. an acre.
+
+The present Directors of the Company are:--
+
+Mr. CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE (_Chairman_).
+Mr. IVOR BEVAN.
+Mr. GORDON H. BROWN.
+LORD HAWKE.
+Mr. LOUIS H. KIEK.
+Mr. T.E. PRESTON.
+Capt. The Hon. F.C. STANLEY.
+
+The London Office is at 779, Salisbury House, Finsbury Circus, London,
+E.C., and the Secretary of the Company is Mr. David Simpson. The Head
+Office in the Argentine is at 761, Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires, and
+the following are the principal officers of the Company in Argentina:--
+
+Mr. HUGH M. RATTRAY (_General Manager_).
+Mr. W.B. WHIGHAM (_Manager of the Cattle
+and Lands Department at Sun Cristobal_).
+Mr. R.N. LAND (_Manager at Santa Catalina_).
+Mr. T. SCOTT ROBSON (_Manager at La Barrancosa_).
+Mr. G.L.C. GITTINS (_Acting Manager of the Woods Department_).
+
+
+
+SHARE CAPITAL.
+
+The original shares of the Company were £10 each. It was decided in 1897
+to reduce them to £7 fully paid, which placed the capital at £612,500.
+Shortly afterwards each £7 share was converted into seven shares of £1
+each.
+
+In 1906 the shareholders authorised the creation of £200,000 of fresh
+capital, which was issued to them in two blocks of £154,000 in 1906 and
+£46,000 in 1907.
+
+Fresh capital was authorised in 1908, viz., £187,500, of which £161,608
+was issued in 1909, and further lots have since been issued, bringing
+the total amount of authorised capital to £1,000,000, and of issued
+capital at 30th June, 1910, to £982,347.
+
+An issue of £50,000 Six per Cent. Debentures was made in January, 1904;
+and the whole amount was redeemed on the 1st July, 1909.
+
+
+BAZAN LANDS.
+
+Part of the area sold to the Company consisted of a block of
+approximately 88 Spanish leagues, or 530,000 English acres, which became
+the subject of negotiations and lawsuits between this Company, the
+Provincial Government of Santa Fé, and other parties, lasting for more
+than twenty-five years. The area in question lay to the West of the Rio
+Salado, and, at the time when this Company was formed, was supposed to
+be included in the Province of Santa Fé. Soon afterwards the Province of
+Santiago del Estero put forward a claim to the lands on the ground that
+the boundaries of that Province extended eastwards to the Rio Salado,
+and it therefore disputed the right of the Province of Santa Fé to sell
+the lands to Messrs. Murrieta & Co. in 1882.
+
+By an Agreement with the Government of the Province of Santa Fé, the
+Santa Fé Land Company took proceedings in the Supreme Courts of the
+Province to establish its rights to the land in dispute on the
+understanding that if the Company failed to establish its claim, the
+Government of the Province of Santa Fé would indemnify it for its loss.
+In the result the Company was evicted from the lands, and entered into
+negotiations with the Government of the Province of Santa Fé for
+indemnification. These negotiations went on for some years without
+coming to any practical conclusion, and at last the Company commenced a
+lawsuit against the Province and won it. After further delays and
+negotiations the Government agreed to issue bonds in respect of the
+Company's claim, and, in July, 1909, the Company agreed to accept
+$3,212,000 paper Bonds of the Province, carrying interest at 3-1/2 per
+cent., with an amortisation of 1/2 per cent., the coupons being
+available for payment of land tax. The Government further undertook to
+ratify the original titles of the Company, and to make a survey at the
+joint expense of both parties, for the purpose of ascertaining the exact
+area comprised in the original transfer. Any lands found to be in excess
+were to be paid for by the Company to the Government at the rate of
+$13.50, paper, per hectarea (about 8s. an acre). The price of such
+excess lands was to be recouped by the Government from the Bonds issued
+to the Company, and the Government retained $712,000 Bonds for this
+purpose, pending the result of the survey.
+
+[Illustration: _Cattle Train on Central Argentine Railway, bringing
+Cattle to Barrancosa._]
+
+
+RAILWAY COMMUNICATION.
+
+At the time of the formation of the Company, the nearest railway was
+that belonging to the Central Argentine Railway, and the nearest
+railway station was Rosario, but some years later, the lines now
+belonging to the French Railway Company of the Province of Santa Fé were
+laid between Santa Fé and San Cristobal. Subsequently the Central Norte
+Railway, which stretches northwards from San Cristobal to Tucuman, was
+built by the National Government, and in 1907, the National Government
+built a line from Santa Fé to San Cristobal _via_ San Justo.
+
+The Company have built a railway from a point north of Vera running into
+their forests, and extend it from time to time as the development of the
+wood industry demands. They further own a line from Margarita to La
+Gallareta, where the extract factory of the Compania Tanin de Santa Fé
+is situated. The Company propose to build a railway from San Cristobal
+to penetrate to their northern properties, and have applied to the
+Argentine National Government for a railway concession in connection
+therewith.
+
+
+ADMINISTRATION.
+
+After various changes of centre the administration offices of the
+Company were, in the year 1902, divided between San Cristobal for the
+cattle and lands department, and Vera for the woods department, but, in
+1906, the woods department was placed under the supervision of the
+General Manager of the Company, who lived at San Cristobal, and, in
+1908, the central offices were moved from San Cristobal to Buenos Aires.
+Through the latter office all the work of the Company in Argentina
+passes on to the London office, the managers at San Cristobal, Vera,
+Santa Catalina, and La Barrancosa, having to concern themselves only
+with the technical and administrative work carried on under them
+respectively.
+
+
+COMPANY'S BUSINESS.
+
+The Company's business has been mainly divided into three branches,
+viz.: (1) land sales and rentals; (2) cattle industry, and (3) timber
+trade.
+
+The first two branches are conducted from San Cristobal, situated at the
+S.W. corner of the Company's original lands, and for many years the site
+of the central offices of the Company in Argentina, whilst the timber
+trade is conducted from Vera.
+
+
+SAN CRISTOBAL DEPARTMENT.
+
+A township was started at San Cristobal in 1884, and now numbers 4,500
+persons.
+
+The Administration House and other buildings for the use of the General
+Manager and Staff of the Cattle and Lands Department were erected about
+three miles from the town, and the whole now forms a large and handsome
+establishment, equipped with the most modern requisites for carrying on
+the work of the estancia.
+
+The cattle lands have been divided up into sections, which are managed
+by officials of the Company, under the control of the administration at
+San Cristobal. The office there and the offices on the various sections
+have recently been connected up by telephone. These sections are
+Polvareda, Michelot, Los Moyes, and Lucero (which lie to the North and
+North-East of San Cristobal), and Las Chuñas, which forms the
+North-Western corner of the Company's lands.
+
+[Illustration: _Loading Wheat at Rosario from the "Barranca."_]
+
+[Illustration: _San Cristobal Estancia House._]
+
+
+SANTA CATALINA AND LA BARRANCOSA.
+
+In January, 1897, the Company rented the estancia of Santa Catalina,
+which is situated about five miles from Los Cardos on the Central
+Argentine Railway and about 150 miles South of San Cristobal. Here the
+stock which was brought down from San Cristobal was fattened before
+passing on to the markets. At the same time the Company continued the
+sowing of alfalfa which had been begun by the proprietor, and ultimately
+decided to buy the camp and use it as an establishment for breeding fine
+stock. The terms of the purchase were that the price should be paid by
+way of an annuity, payable during the joint lifetime of the owner and
+his wife. In 1909 this method of payment was compounded and satisfied in
+full by an allotment of shares of the Company.
+
+The practice has been that the male calves born on this estancia should
+be sent North to the general herds kept at San Cristobal and the
+adjoining sections, and that the progeny of these animals should in turn
+be sold as fat cattle.
+
+To facilitate this business the Company found it necessary to acquire a
+camp specially adapted for fattening purposes in the Southern part of
+the Province, so that they might be brought into closer touch with the
+markets of Rosario and Buenos Aires. They accordingly bought the
+estancia La Barrancosa in 1906, and have been constantly increasing the
+area there under alfalfa, equipping it with a full complement of wells
+and fencing. This estancia lies half way between the towns of San Isabel
+and Venado Tuerto, from the latter of which it is distant about sixteen
+miles. But, during the year 1909, a new broad-gauge railway line was
+opened, leading from Rosario to Bahia Blanca. It passes right through
+the estancia, and by means of a station just outside the boundary the
+Company have fresh means of despatching their animals to Rosario.
+
+
+VERA DEPARTMENT.
+
+The headquarters of the Woods Department is situated about eight miles
+N.W. of the town of Vera, which stands at kilometre 250 north of the
+City of Santa Fé on the line of the French Railway Company leading from
+Santa Fé to Resistencia. Sawmills and offices were built, which involved
+the presence of a considerable number of work-people, for whom houses
+had to be provided. Consequently, a small village has grown up at the
+place.
+
+A branch railway was begun in 1905, at a point 13 kilometres north of
+Vera town, on the French Railway, to penetrate westwards into the
+Company's forests, and has been extended to a point called Olmos, lying
+30 miles away. Along the line two or three hamlets have sprung up, where
+people connected with the wood industry reside, as well as the Company's
+officials who control the timber in the neighbourhood.
+
+In 1904 the Company entered into an agreement with Messrs. Albert and
+Charles Harteneck, Frederick and Charles Portalis, and Hermann Renner,
+to bring out a Company to work a factory for the manufacture of tannin
+extract from the wood of the Quebracho Colorado tree, and this factory
+was ultimately built within the Company's properties at a place called
+La Gallareta, which is situated 17 kilometres north-west of the Station
+of Margarita on the French Railway line. The Santa Fé Land Company have
+also built a branch line from Margarita to this tannin factory.
+
+[Illustration: _Watering-Place at Barrancosa._]
+
+[Illustration: _Wood on the Company's Own Line ready for Loading._]
+
+THE FOLLOWING TABLE SHOWS THE FINANCIAL POSITION OF THE COMPANY FROM
+1898 TO THE PRESENT TIME.
+
+Year       Share Capital.   Deben- Profit. Loss.  Placed   Balance   Dividend
+ending.                     tures                   to     Forward. (percent.)
+          Autho-   Issued   6 per cent.           Reserve.
+          rised.   and fully
+                   paid.
+             £        £       £       £       £     £         £
+30th June,
+" 1898    612,500  612,500   ...       420   ...    ...   Cr.   420    ...
+" 1899    612,500  612,500   ...     ...    1,650   ...   Dr. 1,230    ...
+" 1900    612,500  612,500   ...    11,757   ...    ...   Cr. 2,870   1-1/4
+" 1901    612,500  612,500   ...     9,854   ...   2,000  "   3,068   1-1/4
+" 1902    612,500  612,500   ...    20,746   ...  10,000  "   6,158   1-1/4
+" 1903    612,500  612,500   ...    23,988   ...  10,000  "   7,896   2
+" 1904    612,500  612,500  50,000  28,332   ...   6,000  "   8,790   3-1/2
+" 1905    612,500  612,500  50,000  36,483   ...   6,000  "   8,648   5
+" 1906    812,500  612,500  50,000  48,183   ...   6,000  "  11,018   6-1/2
+" 1907    812,500  766,500  50,000  82,700   ...  12,000  "  20,398   8
+" 1908  1,000,000  812,500  50,000  91,463   ... 86,628[E] " 20,611  10
+" 1909  1,000,000  812,500  50,000 115,375   ...  20,000  "  22,549  10 and
+                                                                  Bonus of 1-1/2
+
+[Illustration: _Loading Timber at Wayside Station._]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[E] Including £76,623 from Share Premiums.
+
+
+
+
+
+THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA.
+
+
+When one goes to a foreign country, and more especially when he intends
+to settle there with the idea of making a fortune, he naturally turns
+his attention to the value of the land, as from this he draws his views
+of the prosperity of the country. Now, twenty-five years ago the
+Argentine had comparatively very few railways; consequently, the lands
+at any long distance from Buenos Aires (the capital) were at a very low
+value. The province of Buenos Aires, the largest in the country, has
+always been the most populated, and its lands have always commanded the
+highest prices, and these have risen tremendously, but not so much of
+late years in proportion as land in the northern provinces. During the
+years 1885, 1886, 1887, and 1888, there was a great boom in land.
+Foreigners were pouring in, bringing capital; great confidence was put
+by foreign capitalists in the country, several railways had run out new
+branches, new railways were built, new banks were opened, and a very
+large extent of land was opened up and cultivated, and put under wheat
+and linseed, harvests were good and money was flowing into the country.
+Then came a very bad year, 1889; the harvest was practically lost owing
+to the heavy and continuous rains which fell from December till July
+with hardly a clear day. This, together with a bad government and the
+revolution of 1890, created a great panic and a tremendous slump in all
+land, from which it took a long time to recover. Where people had bought
+camps and mortgaged them, which was the general thing to do in those
+days, the mortgagees foreclosed, and, when the camps were auctioned
+off, they did not fetch half what the properties had been bought for in
+the first instance, some four or five years previously. This, naturally,
+had a serious effect on the credit, soundness, and finances of the
+country, but really, the crisis was not felt until some three or four
+years after, and it was 1896 and 1897 which were very serious years for
+the country.
+
+To give one an idea of the value of land in four or five of the
+principal provinces of the country, I must begin with the Queen
+Province, as it is called, viz., Buenos Aires. In 1885, property in the
+city centre was worth 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. a yard, whereas to-day it has
+been sold up to £200 sterling per yard, while suburban lots of 20 yards
+by 60 yards realised £5 and to-day are fetching £150, and camp lands
+have risen from £10,000, to £100,000 the square league. Of course this
+is within a radius of 30 to 50 leagues of the city; lands away to the
+south and west may yet be bought at £10,000, and, still further south
+towards Neuquen and the far Pampa, at £2,000 per square league. The
+province of Buenos Aires is not considered good for alfalfa growing, but
+has good natural grass camps.
+
+The province of Santa Fé is a large province, extending from the
+northern boundary of the province of Buenos Aires to Santiago del
+Estero, and contains what is known as the Gran Chaco. The southern
+portion of this province is largely dedicated to the production of
+wheat, linseed, and maize, for which it is admirably adapted. There are
+also large estancias carrying vast herds of cattle, sheep, and horses,
+while the northern portion has vast forests of very fine and valuable
+timber.
+
+[Illustration: _Wheat ready for Loading at Station on Central Argentine
+Railway._]
+
+The first part of this province to be developed was the country around
+Rosario, the large port on the River Parana, where ocean-going steamers
+call. This, together with good railway accommodation in all directions
+combined with excellent land in the district, facilitates the
+cultivation of cereals on a very large scale. Property in Rosario itself
+is very valuable, and from £30 to £50 a yard is a common figure. In the
+immediate district of Rosario land is rarely sold in large areas, but
+may be calculated at £20 an acre, whilst 40 leagues further north it is
+to-day worth £50,000 a league. I know of one estancia of one league
+which was bought in 1885 for £2,000, resold, after being sown down in
+alfalfa and divided into paddocks, without further improvements, at
+£12,000 (this was in 1903), and again sold in 1909, certainly with
+further improvements as regards watering arrangements and more paddocks,
+house, and sheds, etc., in fact, a fair model estancia in good working
+order, for £60,000. Land on the south-west of Rosario, and about 40
+leagues distant, has in the twenty-five years risen from £2,000 a league
+to £40,000 a league. This is for virgin camp, and to-day in these
+districts the average price can be stated at from £30,000 to £40,000 per
+league, yet 300 miles further north land--good land--can be had at from
+£4,000 to £6,000 per league.
+
+The next province, Cordoba, is one of the most hilly in the country, and
+has been one of the most developed during latter years. Some twenty
+years ago this was almost considered a desert, where one was told
+nothing would grow and cattle could not live. To-day it is one of the
+most prosperous; wheat and linseed are great products here, while
+alfalfa, when carefully treated, that is, not overstocked, lives for
+ever on account of the sandy soil, and water being so near the surface.
+These lands twenty years ago were valued at about £500 to £600 per
+league, while to-day it is difficult to acquire land under cultivation
+or alfalfa at less than £30,000 per league. In the Northern part of this
+province are very valuable stone quarries.
+
+Another province that is advancing very fast is that of San Luis. Here,
+again, it has been found that alfalfa is at home, and thrives
+splendidly. This, again, is a very sandy soil, and consequently is much
+sought after, but this land has not yet touched the value of that in the
+provinces already mentioned; it will not stand so much cropping, and
+will not carry the same amount of stock, but still the average price for
+virgin camp is from £5,000 to £10,000 per league. In this province there
+is a very large extent of very poor land, covered with a small shrub,
+which is not worth more than £2,000 a league.
+
+Mendoza is a more northerly province, and mostly dedicated to the grape
+and wine industry, while a lot of fruit is also exported from there.
+Wine is made in very large quantities, and a lot of very good quality.
+The value of land varies very much. The greater portion is worth at
+present very little. The great point is to get the water concessions for
+irrigating; without irrigation the land is useless. A good vineyard in
+its prime, with good irrigation rights, is worth as much as from £40 to
+£50 per acre, while the ordinary camp land is at about 7s. per acre.
+
+[Illustration: _The Maker of Land Values._]
+
+
+
+
+REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+The Argentine Republic, like all hot countries, is subject to very great
+hurricanes and storms. They occur most frequently in the spring and
+summer, when very sudden changes of temperature take place. The
+thermometer has often been known to drop 25 degrees within half an hour.
+
+A great deal of damage is always caused, trees which have taken years of
+care and trouble are ruthlessly uprooted, roofs blown off, windmills
+blown down, haystacks turned over, and valuable animals struck by
+lightning. The terrible closeness and stillness which generally precede
+a "tormenta" are certain forerunners of bad weather and storms. A
+terrible hailstorm which took place some time ago will always be
+remembered by its spectators. The usual signs of it were evident; the
+atmosphere had become very close and it had been extremely hot for some
+hours before. Though only about 4 p.m., it got peculiarly dark and a
+strong gale began to blow, and distant sounds of thunder were heard. A
+sudden lull came, which meant that the storm was about to break; sheets
+of lightning of every description were followed by deafening peals of
+thunder, which made man and beast tremble. Then there came a downfall of
+huge hailstones; they were just like big lumps of jagged ice; some of
+them measured about six to eight inches round and weighed over half a
+pound. This storm did a fearful lot of harm; not a leaf was left on a
+single tree, and hundreds of birds lay dead all around. Though very
+violent, this hailstorm did not last more than ten minutes, in which
+time an incalculable amount of destruction took place.
+
+In September, 1909, a very bad cyclone suddenly came on us. The sky
+turned black and blacker, and the clouds looked horribly wicked.
+Suddenly a terrific gale got up, which caused every window and door to
+rattle in a most alarming manner, though they had all been as well
+secured as possible. The dust seemed to filter in just the same, and in
+five minutes the house was an inch thick in it. We heard a loud bang and
+then another over our heads, and on looking out of a window we saw the
+roof of one of the outer buildings lying on the ground; part of it had
+been blown over our house and had carried away the chimney, a big iron
+one, on its way. We were told afterwards that the cook had had to use
+all her force against the kitchen window to keep it from bursting open,
+as, if the wind had got in, it would have carried away that roof as
+well. This hurricane lasted for about an hour and a-half; as soon as it
+had abated somewhat we went out to see the result. Everywhere reigned
+havoc and confusion, the whole place looked an old ruin, brick-bats,
+tiles, broken branches, loose sheets of corrugated iron lying all
+around; three roofs had been blown away, several windmills knocked down
+and carried 100 yards away, and lovely old trees had been completely
+uprooted.
+
+The natives, frightened of remaining in their own quarters, had, in
+their terror, deserted them and taken refuge, with their wives and
+children, in the open camp, where they fondly imagined they were safer.
+Out in the camp the roofs of most of the "puestos," or huts, had been
+also carried away, leaving the occupants exposed to the cold rains and
+winds which followed.
+
+A peculiar feature of this storm was that it was not at all general; at
+the neighbouring "estancias" it was not felt at all, and some of the
+"peons," who were riding in the camp at the time, said they could see
+this whirlwind coming a long way off at a tremendous rate and that it
+looked like a column of red smoke; they could not feel the effects of
+the wind either, although they were not more than half a mile away.
+
+This storm was followed by very heavy rains which lasted for about ten
+days, during which our house was flooded, as the wind had lifted the
+tiles and the rain was driven in through every possible place.
+
+Another time, when driving home from the town of Vernado Tuerto, we were
+caught in a very bad dust storm. Things became so black that we could
+not see where we were going, so we had to halt. The wind was so strong
+that the men had to get out of the carriage, which was a heavy
+covered-in waggonette, and hold the wheels down to prevent it from being
+overturned. We all looked like seaside niggers, as the dust and rain
+falling at once came down like mud on us all. One gets quite hardened to
+these severe storms. On one occasion a very rough wind began to blow,
+but, as it was a steady gale, no one took particular notice of it. It
+was after dinner, and everybody was busy playing cards. The wind made
+such a deafening noise that you could hardly hear yourself speak;
+presently some of the occupants of the house thought they would have a
+look outside to see if things were all right; when they were surprised
+to see an outer building, used for stores and machinery, roofless, and
+the roof nowhere to be seen; it was discovered afterwards on the top of
+their own house, and they had never heard it happen.
+
+The climate in the Argentine is very variable; we have great extremes of
+heat and cold. It is healthy as a rule, except in the swampy districts
+or during a very wet season, when a great many residents suffer from
+rheumatism.
+
+People talk about the sudden changes of English weather, but we are
+treated just the same; one day it will be brilliantly hot and fine, and
+another day cold and miserable.
+
+One part of the country or another is generally suffering from drought,
+when in another part they are being flooded out.
+
+In the winter there is much more sunshine than there is in England; in
+the early morning it is bitterly cold, at noon on a fine day it is
+blazing hot, and then, as soon as the sun goes in, it freezes hard.
+
+In the summer, of course, the heat is very great, but, as it is
+generally dry, it is quite healthy.
+
+
+
+
+SOME EXPERIENCES OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS.
+
+I came out with my brother on a tramp steamer from Penarth. We took
+thirty-one days. However, time passed fairly quickly, chipping off rust
+and painting the decks, after we got over our sickness.
+
+Rain fell heavily as we landed at Buenos Aires, two typical _gringos_
+(greenhorns), not knowing a word of Spanish. I went to a first-class
+hotel, whose proprietor I had met in England. My first attempt to speak
+Spanish was in a tram. I asked the conductor to stop; getting out I
+said, "Mucha grasa" (much fat), instead of "muchas gracias" (many
+thanks)--then called the man a fool for laughing.
+
+We stopped in Buenos Aires a week and our bill came into hundreds of
+dollars, which took a big slice off our small means.
+
+We then went to an estancia (farm) in the Province of Cordoba. The
+estancia was fifty-one miles square, owned by an Argentine family. The
+manager was a North-American, well known in camp life.
+
+The estancia consisted of three sections, one where I went, another
+where my brother was, and the other the headquarters.
+
+I was under a young Scotchman. The camp was fifteen miles, with 3,000
+cows, 2,000 steers, and 500 mares. There was my companion, one peon
+(man), a boy, and myself. My house was made of mud walls and floor, a
+zinc roof, with a little straw. It was cool in summer, but very cold in
+winter. There was one room for ourselves, where we slept and ate, one
+for the cook (when we had one), and a kitchen. Under my bed I had a
+snake's hole; a long black snake came out in the night, and, on hearing
+a sound, would go back. I did everything to kill it, but with no
+success. Also I had two kittens which slept in my bed. One night I felt
+something soft by my feet. I thought it was the kittens, but, putting my
+hand down, I found my feet covered with blood. I jumped out of bed, and
+found a young hare half eaten and my sheets covered with blood.
+
+The first thing I had to do was to skin a cow, and it made me feel very
+uncomfortable to look at the horrid sight. The next day I was sent to
+fetch the fat from a dead cow. When I got there I could not see any fat
+and wondered what it was. I saw the intestines and carried them bodily
+on my new recado (native saddle). My horse got excited and I arrived
+dead beat. I told my companion I had the fat: then he burst out laughing
+and said I had got the intestines. Needless to say my recado was the
+worse for wear.
+
+The food was different from what I was used to, and I felt ill for a
+time.
+
+In the summer I was up at between three and four, having "maté-cocido"
+(cooked Paraguayan tea--the native drink) with a hard biscuit; at
+eleven, breakfast of puchero (big pieces of meat boiled in a pot), then
+maize with milk and a biscuit. Sometimes tea at four, but very seldom;
+supper consisted of an asado and maté at seven or eight o'clock.
+
+I had charge of two valuable stallions--they had a stable of mud and
+straw.
+
+At branding time the capataz (foreman) came up with his men for a week.
+Up before three o'clock, quite dark, we branded 6,000 calves, and I
+enjoyed it.
+
+The Boss seldom came; when he did, his trap would be sure to run over a
+piece of wire, and then we heard of it; nothing missed him.
+
+Then our cook began stealing provisions from the store box. We changed
+the locks three times, and each time she bought a key to the same. One
+night I asked her for some coffee. She said there was none. I could see
+she had some in a small bag, and I went to fetch it. She took up a knife
+and threatened me. I soon twisted the knife from her. Our food was bad,
+my companion was careless, and frightened of her. One day he had a row,
+and she got the sack, using strong language. We then did our own cooking
+for eight months: the first one home from camp had to begin cooking.
+
+The meat we got was often green and bitter. All the time we had puchero
+and asado, and an occasional ostrich egg.
+
+Ostriches swarmed everywhere, and it was good sport lassoing them. I
+found one nest with fifty eggs, laid by different birds. My cooking was
+rather a failure at first, the smoke was so thick we could not see each
+other. I was told to cook maize for dinner. I made a big fire, and
+cooked for three hours, and was then told I had the stallions' maize.
+Another time it was very dark; our candles, made of old clothes and
+grease, had run out. I had made some good soup, and put the pot near the
+table, then, walking by, put my foot in it: the hot grease made me hop,
+and took the skin off my foot. Our table was an old greasy box; we had
+no plates, nor forks, just a big knife. Sometimes, coming in very tired
+from a hard day, we had no strength to chop wood and make a fire; we
+just went to bed. Many days we only had an asado and maté. Maté I am
+very fond of--it is so refreshing and sustaining.
+
+My brother was only eight miles away: his section was under alfalfa, and
+he had a comfortable house. One dark night, going home from his place, I
+followed a fence until I came to a cross fence. I was going slowly,
+when, all of a sudden, my horse stopped dead, and I shot over the fence,
+the bridle and halter came off, and away went my horse, leaving me to
+continue five miles on foot.
+
+Bizcachas (like a big badger) were numerous. One day we dug a two-metre
+hole, and next day found eight live ones. They have teeth one and a-half
+inches long.
+
+Our nearest village was eighteen miles away, where I met some English
+friends, and played tennis or had some other amusement. I used to start
+back at 2.30 a.m. to be in time for work. One night I had to cross a big
+field, without a path or fence for a guide. It was dark, and lightning
+hard. I made for a light, which I thought was the house. Going for some
+time, I came to a fence--I was lost. I unsaddled and lay down to sleep,
+the rain was pouring hard, when I heard a donkey braying, so I shouted,
+and was answered by a man in a puesto (out-station). The light I saw was
+a village twelve miles away.
+
+My companion was very slack, and the patrons came up and sacked him.
+
+Then I went to the estancia house for a month, breaking in colts for
+driving. I felt rather sad at leaving my rough work. It was hard work,
+but I never had better health.
+
+My Boss then earned $15 per month, and his wife cooked for the men. Now
+he is one of the richest men in the country.
+
+There was no opening there, so the Boss sent me to a New Zealander who
+had half a league of camp, all fine stock, good alfalfa and splendid
+water. He had a big house and I expected I would live well. My first
+work was to dig up locusts' eggs for a week under a hot sun, with the
+ground very hard. The Boss was a man of forty-two, very red-faced and
+extremely rich, but as mean as possible.
+
+Our meals took about six to eight minutes, fast eating; he would watch
+every mouthful. At tea he would take a lot of milk and give me a little;
+he finished soon, while I burnt my throat. He allowed me a slice of
+biscuit for each meal. His cook only got $10 a month.
+
+In the winter we were in bed by six to seven.
+
+His clothes were a disgrace to any peon. He had native trousers that
+button at the foot, with top boots, no socks, his heel and big toe were
+sticking out, no vest, only a shirt and an old hat, where the grease of
+many years was visible.
+
+He was a splendid worker--I have not seen a better one. We used to catch
+locusts in a big zinc box pulled by two horses; the locusts were put
+into sacks, and after being left standing for four days, were carted to
+the village, where he got 10 cents a kilo. The smell in carting these
+dead locusts was simply terrible. Then I helped pick ten square of
+maize, which at first took a little skin off my hands. At branding time
+we lassoed each calf to cut off the horns. I had to sit on their necks,
+and got smothered in the face with hot blood. The Boss was very proud
+because his monthly account only came to $12 for four of us: biscuits,
+sugar, tea, and other things. He sent his clothes once in three months
+to be washed. He had few friends, no one ever came to visit him, and
+every Sunday he shut himself in his room. He bought the place for
+$90,000 and sold it for over double. He was a thorough campman, but so
+mean. One cold winter 500 cows died of starvation; rather than sell them
+at a low price he let them starve. The last thing he said was, he was
+"going to New Zealand to marry an ugly lady, but she has plenty of
+money." His countrymen called him a disgrace to his country and the
+meanest in the Argentine.
+
+Then a kind friend found me a place on a well-known estancia in the same
+province. The manager, the second-manager, and the book-keeper were all
+Irish, born in the country. I had a good horse, which I rode fifty miles
+to the estancia.
+
+The second told me to have my food with the peons (men), which was
+rather disheartening. I tried to eat in the kitchen, but the French cook
+kicked me out, and for ten months I fed with the peons; they were very
+good fellows. The second and the book-keeper had meals together. The
+second-manager did no work: up at half-past eight, he went to the train,
+had a drink at the shop, then came back for dinner, slept until
+tea-time, then went to see the train pass again and have another drink,
+and came back at all hours. He had been there fourteen years and was
+only getting a hundred a month.
+
+The chief work was loading cattle and sheep for the big freezing
+factories. The trucks were rotten. One night we finished at 11 p.m.,
+after a hard day's work, three of us unloaded 300 quebracho posts in
+under three hours. I had a French gardener in my room who did nothing
+else but spit and talk politics.
+
+The Boss took me to learn shearing. I had to shear, gather the wool,
+sort it and pack it up. Each man got five cents a sheep, but it was hard
+work, all done by hand.
+
+Then I cut alfalfa for a fortnight--a nice easy job.
+
+A Catholic priest came to stay for eight days--Mass every day at 7 a.m.
+and 8 p.m., sometimes three a day. No work at all. Everyone had to
+go--the book-keeper did not, so he got the sack. I, as a Protestant,
+went to the sermons, which were very good. It was wonderful; these rough
+campmen went away quite tamed for a time. The last night the Boss got
+married at half-past twelve at night to a native lady. Another time,
+while we were at Mass, someone came to say the gardener was dying--we
+raced down, the priest in front ready to hear his confession, but when
+we got there the gardener was calmly smoking his pipe, greatly
+surprised.
+
+An inspector of locusts stopped all the summer. He did nothing but eat,
+sleep, and drink whisky. We had locust-killing machines of every
+description, but we did not kill ten kilos.
+
+The days I enjoyed were when we started out early to part some animals
+in a herd of over a thousand. At eleven we would have an asado and maté,
+and give our horses a drink, then finish parting, and get home at
+half-past seven. The horses look wrecks, and no good, but they work all
+day--mostly galloping--and are splendid stayers.
+
+The Boss's brother, a very nice man of fifty, married a servant of the
+Boss, a girl of eighteen.
+
+Great excitement is caused by races. The Boss was keen, and the men
+talked of nothing else for days. Every Sunday there are races. Once I
+rode my horse bareback in three races of 200 metres, and won a bottle of
+beer, a packet of tobacco, and a knife.
+
+Then I was put in charge of fine stock. I had ten Durham bulls, two
+thoroughbred stallions, one Pecheron, eight rams and twelve pigs. I had
+a boy under me. I also had to saddle up the Boss's and the Second's
+horses, and harness the traps. Sometimes I had to wait till eleven at
+night, very tired, to unsaddle the Second's horse, as he had been making
+love to the Stationmaster's sister.
+
+The work was very interesting and hard, even on Sundays or feast days,
+watering, cleaning the animals, and curing any foals that were ill.
+
+I then moved to another room near the stable, with a newly arrived
+Italian who knew no Spanish nor English, also an Irishman just arrived.
+They could not speak to each other. The Irishman slept on the floor
+every night, and poured kerosene all over him to keep insects away. One
+day he poisoned five pigs, giving them the dip-water to drink. He had
+few clothes. He would turn them inside out, and often had three pairs of
+trousers and two shirts on.
+
+One day the Boss was out: the men were taming some wild colts in the
+corral. I took French leave and went. I got on five. None had had a
+saddle on before or even been handled. We lassoed them, pulled them down
+and put on the bridle. Then five men held a long rope and one put on the
+native saddle, with stirrups big enough to get your toes in. Then they
+tied a red handkerchief round my head. I mounted gently but quickly.
+Then the rope was taken off and away the colt went as fast as possible,
+with one man on each side to shove you either way, all the time bucking
+and plunging. I did not fall, but one stirrup broke. One laid down and
+would not move. It tried to bite everyone. When they go fast and buck at
+the same time it is very hard to stick on.
+
+On the 25th of May, the great holiday in this country, I went to an
+estancia to see some friends. On my way back we had to cross a deep
+river. The coachman drove across, but one wheel went into a big hole and
+the jerk sent me out on my head, where the wheel passed over my hair,
+missing my head by inches. I was senseless. A crowd of women came and
+began weeping--they thought I was dead--then I was taken in a procession
+to the chemist, who sent me to a hospital, where I found my collar bone
+broken. I did nothing for three weeks.
+
+This estancia is a splendid one for learners, because there is a little
+of everything. Once I had a month with the threshing machine, sleeping
+out with the mosquitoes, and getting meat nearly raw for food; but a lot
+of money can be made from the harvest.
+
+Then, after a few weeks' holiday to England, we came back, and I went
+down south with my brother to sow alfalfa seed. We had a caravan on
+wheels, and learned how to plough and sow. We went to a camp
+race-meeting, where every estancia has its own tent, there is racing all
+day and dancing at night.
+
+I often look back upon these jolly times. Work was exacted with anything
+but kindness, but the life was simple and very healthy, and many
+pleasant reminiscences are talked over when it is my luck to join others
+around the camp fire before falling to sleep with nothing but a
+bullock's head as a pillow and a "recado" as a blanket and the glorious,
+starry sky above one.
+
+
+
+
+THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE.
+
+
+To an outsider, life in the camps or country might be considered very
+slow: the distance between the estancias being so great, the ordinary
+form of social life is quite impossible; for instance, when one goes to
+pay a call on a neighbour, even a first call, it means going for the
+day, starting in the cool of the morning and returning in the evening,
+and so allowing the horses to have a rest. Of course, if everyone had a
+motor-car, this might not be necessary; but as yet they are very few and
+far between. This is no doubt owing to the bad roads; in most districts,
+after a few hours' rain, the roads are flooded, and what is worse still,
+"pantanosa" (thick, sticky mud).
+
+Most estancieros keep open house, and are only too pleased when people
+"drop in," which they do at all times and for any meal, almost without a
+"by your leave." An estancia house has to be very elastic, and ready to
+provide, at a moment's notice, board and lodging for unexpected guests.
+This is quite the nicest way of entertaining one's friends--no fuss of
+preparation, and, more often than not, a very jolly evening of cards,
+music, or games.
+
+It is a delightful country for men, a healthy, open-air life, with
+plenty of hard work and hard riding; each man has from four to six
+horses allowed him for working purposes, and then, as a rule (talking of
+the English mayor-domo), he has two or three polo ponies of his own.
+Sunday is the great day for polo; there is very little time in our busy
+Argentine even for a practice game during the week, so Sunday means a
+merry meeting of friends wherever there is a polo club in the district,
+people going in six or seven leagues (or even more) from one side of
+the town to meet friends who have come an equal distance from the other
+side, a thing they might not do for months if it were not for the polo
+club. Each lady takes her turn in providing tea on these polo Sundays,
+and there is great competition as to who makes the best cakes,
+especially as it often falls to the lady herself to make these luxuries.
+
+Wherever there is a polo club the most exciting event of the year is the
+Spring Race Meeting, two days' racing, often followed by a polo match or
+tournament with neighbouring clubs, and always as many dances as
+possible, as it is the only time in the year when enough girls can be
+collected together; every estancia house has its own party, as many as
+can be crowded in, including friends from Buenos Aires and Rosario, who
+delight in these camp meetings, and she is a proud hostess who can count
+a few girls amongst her party. I may as well add here that girls are
+almost "non est" in the camp, many districts for leagues and leagues
+round not being able to boast of one English girl.
+
+[Illustration: _Tennis Party at Vera_.]
+
+Most clubs hold a Gymkhana Meeting in the Autumn, which makes one more
+excitement in the year: it is a very merry meeting as a rule, with
+always a dance or two if enough girls can be found. During the Winter
+season (from April 1st to September 1st) the shooting is very good in
+most parts, and many good shooting parties are given where there is
+enough game to make it worth while asking one's friends. The bag
+consists of partridges, martinetta (similar to the pheasant) and hares
+(which are not considered worth picking up); when there are a number of
+guns, dogs are not used, but two men on horseback drag a wire through
+the grass (several in a line, if a big party), which forces the birds to
+rise, and the guns walk behind. Peons on horseback, carrying sacks, keep
+close up to them and pick up the birds as they fall, and close on their
+heels comes a big brake, into which are emptied the contents of the
+sacks as they get too heavy. The ladies of the party follow in all sorts
+and conditions of vehicles, cheering on the shooters and dispensing
+much-needed refreshments. A shoot is always followed up by a jolly
+evening, after a hot bath and a good dinner. The men, forgetting how
+tired they are, are quite ready to sing, dance, or play bridge until the
+small hours. Another great event not to be forgotten is the visit of the
+Camp Chaplain: he goes from one district to another holding services,
+every Sunday in a different place. In a well-populated district he would
+hold one about every two months, but to some places, where there are
+next to no English people, he would probably only go about once or twice
+a year. Church Sunday is quite an event, and again gives one an
+opportunity of meeting friends from a distance. The parson is very
+lenient with us as a rule, and does not object to any form of amusement
+in the afternoon, such as polo, tennis, cricket, football, or golf, and
+encourages the young men to come to _Church_ (usually a room hired for
+the occasion) in costumes suitable for such. Our poor Camp Chaplain does
+not have an easy time; distances are so great that more than half his
+time is spent on the train.
+
+[Illustration: _Carnival at Vera_.]
+
+
+
+
+CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+Carnival falls every year during the week before the beginning of Lent.
+It is a general holiday, and much fun and amusement are crammed into the
+few days which precede the dull season of fasting.
+
+Carnival is more observed in camp towns than in the bigger cities, where
+the custom of celebrating it is very much on the wane, and where the law
+forbids water-throwing and other such damp forms of amusement, which are
+winked at by the more lenient authorities in local towns.
+
+It is really quite a pretty sight to see a camp town during carnival.
+The one main street, which does not boast of pavements, and is generally
+a yard deep in dust, is gaily decorated with bunting and festoons. Small
+stands are put up every ten yards or so, in which the "caballeros" take
+up their positions and pelt the "senoritas" with confetti and
+"serpentinas" (blocks of different coloured paper which look like rolls
+of tape about 30 or 50 yards long). The elite of the "pueblo" drive
+round in the procession; ladies, some in the very latest creations, and
+some in beautiful fancy dresses, parade round in flower and ribbon
+bedecked carriages. A prize is generally given to the best decorated
+conveyance, and to the best fancy costume, which causes a lot of
+competition and jealousy amongst the fair sex.
+
+On an estancia, carnival is celebrated in a much more drastic fashion.
+On one place, the giddy members of the household have a very rowdy time
+of it, and make things very lively for the unwary. On one occasion, they
+determined to give the mayor-domo his share of the general drenching
+which he had missed; so when he rode in at midday, after a long and busy
+morning's work in the camp, he was welcomed with a volley of buckets of
+water, which were emptied over him from the top of the house, where the
+delinquents had taken up their advantageous position.
+
+Another time a certain young damsel, a guest in the same house, saw from
+the window her hostess entertaining one of the boys, a fresh arrival
+from England, who had ridden over from a neighbouring estancia. Prompted
+by her daring friends she was induced to take up a jug of water, and
+stealing up behind his chair, emptied the contents of the vessel over
+the visitor's head, and then bolted; the injured party, after recovering
+his self-possession, rose to the occasion and gave chase, and after a
+desperate struggle, and in spite of penitent apologies, she was borne
+off by her captor and deposited in the first tub he happened to see,
+which turned out to be a freshly painted rubbish barrel.
+
+There is not much respecting of persons on these occasions, the girls
+generally combine against the boys, who, as a rule, come off best. The
+most binding promises are made on both sides, who vow not to throw
+anything larger than a "globo" (a small balloon filled with water, which
+bursts when it touches anything solid) or "poms" (leaden squirt full of
+scent); but in the excitement of the fray which follows all is
+forgotten, and buckets of water, the garden hose, and even the ducking
+of some in water troughs, are the final outcome.
+
+The scene after an afternoon or evening's battle is very funny; girls,
+with their hair lying in dripping masses over their faces and shoulders,
+their dresses, generally the oldest of thin cotton ones, clinging
+hopelessly to their wearied forms, present a truly comic sight. When
+they are all tired of strife, they retire by common consent to the
+house, where, after discarding their soaking garments and taking a warm
+bath, they are ready to discuss the glories of the day over a
+much-wanted dinner.
+
+
+
+
+HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+
+
+HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+In this country a great deal more racing goes on than in Europe, and it
+is not confined to the moneyed classes only. Even the "peones" hold
+their small meetings and match their grass-fed ponies. Estancieros and
+mayor-domos have camp race-meetings once or twice yearly at all the
+larger polo clubs, and at Palermo and Hurlingham every class of society
+in Buenos Aires may be seen on the stands.
+
+At Palmero race-meetings are held frequently, almost weekly in fact, on
+Sunday afternoons; and the stands are generally well filled. On days of
+festival, when there is a special programme, the place is crowded, and
+these occasions correspond, more or less, with the more important
+meetings in England.
+
+The course is of earth, and perfectly flat, so that the only thing which
+interferes with the view is dust. The stands are magnificent and the
+different grades of society are divided by railings, while at the back
+of each may be seen the row of offices of the "Sport," which is the
+betting system of the country.
+
+This consists of tickets, which are sold at a fixed price, with the name
+of one of the entries. After the race there is a great rush to the
+offices, made by those who have bought the winner, to collect their
+winnings, which are the total receipts, minus a small percentage,
+divided by the number of those who bought the winner. In this way a very
+hot favourite will pay very little more than the original purchase
+money, while an outsider who wins will pay his backers perhaps ten, or
+even twenty times their deposit. There is also private betting, of
+course, but no public bookmakers.
+
+The horses are of very good quality, though not up to the standard of
+the classic races in Europe. A number of youngsters are imported yearly
+from England and the United States, and among them usually some good
+selling-plate winners, and one or two that have been placed in
+first-class flat races. The country also produces some excellent horses,
+and they are improving every year; the stud farms are already well known
+in Europe as some of the best in the world. Of these, the most
+important, perhaps, is the "Ojo de Agua," so-called from its famous
+spring, which waters all the stables as well as dwelling quarters. It is
+the home of the famous Cyllene, whose offspring we expect to see winning
+races in the near future; Polar Star, scarcely less known, and
+Ituzaingo, a native of this country, are his present companions; while
+the remains of Gay Hermit, Stiletto, Pietermaritzburg, and Kendal, all
+of whom are well known among turf circles at home, rest beneath its
+soil. There are several other equally famous stud farms, such as the
+"San Jacinto," the present home of Val d'Or, who won the Eclipse Stakes
+from Cicero, the Derby winner of that year; at another, Diamond Jubilee,
+whose list of victories is long, resided for the latter part of his
+life.
+
+Nor are the jockeys unworthy of their mounts, and some very fine riding
+may be witnessed both at Palermo and Hurlingham.
+
+In contrast to these races, run on a well-ordered course, and watched
+from luxurious stands, are the native "cancha" meetings, held, probably,
+at some country public-house, and run on a "cancha," consisting of a
+soft piece of road, or along a fence where there are no holes. The races
+consist of matches arranged between two ponies, over short distances.
+The start is made only by agreement of both the jockeys, and thus many
+hours are wasted in their manoeuvres to get the advantage of one another
+at the start. If the judges have money on the loser, the race is often
+given a dead heat, and has to be run again. The pony of most endurance
+has usually the best chance of winning, though the race itself is short,
+as his rival may be tired out by repeated false starts. Large sums of
+money often change hands at these meetings, as the native is a born
+gambler, and understands this primitive method of racing better than the
+more complicated systems of the regular course. Owing to this, and to
+the competitors' efforts to cheat one another, not infrequently knives
+are drawn during the heated discussion which follows the race.
+
+The ponies are, for the most part, taken straight off the camp, though
+in some cases they have been fed on maize and trained. They are ridden
+either bareback or with the native "recado," and catch-weights: as may
+be gathered from the method, it is usually "owners up."
+
+Between these two extreme classes of racing in this country are the
+English camp race-meetings, which are held by all the larger polo clubs
+once or twice a year. Being of rare occurrence, and as some, if not all,
+of the faces are open to members of other clubs, these are among the
+chief social gatherings in camp life: in many cases there is a small
+polo tournament attached, as it is the best opportunity for those who
+come from a distance, and could not come twice. Therefore it usually
+means a two or three days' holiday, and often a dance, or some
+entertainment in the evenings. Old friends exchange reminiscences, and
+new acquaintances are formed; while the ladies also make the best of the
+opportunity to put on their smartest frocks and hats.
+
+The races themselves, too, are the source of considerable talk and
+excitement: both horses and jockeys are well known by sight or
+reputation to the chief part of the company, and any "dark horse" or new
+arrival, is inspected with care and anxiety by his rivals.
+
+The class of horse entered varies between the three-quarter bred and the
+"criollo" with no pretence to breeding at all, who often carries off the
+short polo pony sprints. Occasionally there may be a thoroughbred
+entered who has been found wanting at Palermo or Hurlingham, but these
+are few and not always successful, as the longest races do not often
+exceed about a mile and a-half. As the weights correspond to
+steeplechase weights at home the jockeys are practically always
+amateurs, and a large percentage of "owners up" is always found. Young
+mayor-domos who have never ridden at a meeting before often find
+themselves ranged alongside of Grand National riders at the start, and
+some amusing incidents have occurred, though there is some very good
+amateur riding to be seen as well.
+
+The betting is on a smaller scale generally than at the native meeting,
+and is often conducted by someone setting up as a public bookmaker; at
+other times a "sport" is formed after the fashion of Palermo. Also the
+auction of all entries before the start of the races in the American way
+is a great favourite; the total receipts for each race are divided
+proportionately between those who bought the winner and "placed" horses.
+
+There is opportunity for a little horse-dealing too, and many good polo
+ponies to send home or play in the tournaments have been picked up in
+this way. The shorter races for ponies under polo height give an
+opportunity to the polo player, and the mayor-domo who cannot train his
+ponies for longer distances, to try the mettle of their mounts against
+outside and purer blood.
+
+Nowadays most of the entries are trained to some extent, though not
+many go to regular training establishments. To have a reasonable chance
+of running well in the longer races, however, it is necessary to have
+your mounts in stable exercised regularly and fed on corn. It is only
+quite lately, however, that even so much training has been adopted at
+all generally. In the old pioneer days of English estancias, when these
+clubs were formed, they raced ponies taken straight off grass and kept
+fit by riding the regular rounds of camp and stock.
+
+There are many tales of the great "rags" that happened in those days,
+and curious incidents of racing, too. On one occasion a winner of a polo
+pony race was objected to as over height. The measurement was to be
+taken after the end of the meeting; and it must be remembered that all
+ponies out in the camp are unshod. The man who had come in second went
+round to the stables before the measuring and noticed in the winner's
+stall a number of large pieces of hoof recently chopped off. The pony
+passed with an inch off his forefeet and nothing was said, though it had
+been obviously over height. That evening at bridge the owner happened to
+win considerably from the man who had lodged the complaint, who, when
+the score was to be settled, threw down some pieces of hoof on the table
+saying, "Take back your dirty chips."
+
+Nowadays, of course, things are not quite so rough and ready, and most
+of the clubs are affiliated, and run under Hurlingham or the Jockey Club
+rules, so that good sport and good feeling prevail. In fact the camp man
+looks forward to these occasions as the best bits of sport and amusement
+that he will get during the year.
+
+
+
+
+SUNDAYS IN CAMP.
+
+
+
+
+
+SUNDAYS IN CAMP.
+
+
+In no place is Sunday more looked forward to and enjoyed than in camp.
+Holidays on the estancia come but seldom, and were it not for the
+welcome break that gives the campman a day of rest every week, his life
+would be a round of work, and probably make him the proverbial "dull
+boy." All the busy working-days are so filled with the various duties
+that when evening comes and dinner is over the tired worker has little
+inclination for reading or any other relaxation, the thought of that
+early bell which rouses him before sunrise makes him take advantage of
+every hour's sleep he can. At an hour when the townman is thinking of
+beginning the evening's amusement at theatre or concert, the campman is
+sleeping the sound sleep that fresh air combined with hard work never
+denies. But on one evening an exception is made to these early hours,
+and that is Saturday. With the pleasant feeling of a week's work
+completed and the morrow's rest before them, our campmen begin their
+weekly holiday by an extra hour or two at billiards or music, or perhaps
+a rubber of bridge, turning in with a fervid "Thank goodness,
+to-morrow's Sunday." Then the pleasure of waking at the usual hour (4
+a.m. or even earlier in summer) and remembering that it is the blessed
+Day of Rest, and having time to enjoy the extra hours, then the luxury
+of dressing at one's leisure, choosing the collar and most becoming tie
+and adjusting them with care, and coming out in spotless white duck or
+smart riding breeches, ready to enjoy whatever sport is in season;
+tennis is mostly played all the year round; and when birds are plentiful
+a shoot on the lagunas attracts the sportsman, the "bag" making a
+welcome variety to the dinner table; snipe, partridge, hares, and many
+varieties of duck are common in a season that has not been too dry.
+Then, to those lucky ones who have a polo club within reach, Sunday
+during the winter season is a day of real enjoyment.
+
+The game, which in England can only be played by men of means, can on
+the estancia be enjoyed by all at little expense, the useful little
+Argentine horses being easily trained to the game. Sometimes one finds a
+few enterprising golfers who, with not a little trouble, make a few
+"greens" and do a couple of rounds just to keep their hand in, but it is
+not a general camp game. It will be seen, however, that the Day of Rest
+is not one of idleness, but rather a healthful and beneficial change of
+exercise.
+
+Church service enters but seldom into the camp Sunday--such privileges
+are rare, although now camp parsons are more numerous than a few years
+ago--but at best one can only count on one or two services a year. When
+a Church service _is_ held he would be a carping critic indeed who is
+not satisfied and pleased with the earnest attention with which the
+service is followed and the vigorous singing of hymns and chants in
+which all the boys join so lustily; it is a reminder of Home to them,
+and the familiar service is thoroughly enjoyed.
+
+The Day of Rest, so essential to one's well-being, seems to come round
+with such surprising rapidity that we may say truly it proves that
+estancia life, with its long hours of hard work, so far from being
+monotonous or wearisome, is a happy life. Where time flies past quickly
+it means it passes happily, and amongst the most pleasant of the days we
+spend in this land of sunshine we must count the Sundays in camp.
+
+[Illustration: "A Day of Real Enjoyment."]
+
+THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.
+
+
+
+
+THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.
+
+
+We often hear complaints from friends at home about the trouble they
+experience over obtaining and keeping good servants, and there is no
+doubt that the servant problem is a serious one in England, and is
+getting worse every year; but it pales into insignificance when compared
+with the trials and tribulations of those who live in the Argentine and
+have to keep house.
+
+From all one hears, those living in Buenos Aires and the larger towns
+have a terrible time of it with their servants, especially if they are
+not overburdened with the good things of this world in the shape of hard
+cash; but my experiences have been confined to the camp, so that of the
+town side of the question I cannot speak.
+
+I have been three years in the province of Cordoba, and all the servants
+I have met with except one were Argentines from the foothills of the
+Cordoba Sierras.
+
+They were without exception quite untrained as far as the English idea
+goes, and the first thing to do with them was usually to teach them the
+primitive ideas of cleanliness. The first servant I had was an ancient
+female named Andrea, about forty years old, and it proved quite
+impossible to get her to see the necessity of keeping anything in the
+kitchen clean, as she seemed imbued with the idea that it was great
+waste of time washing saucepans and frying-pans, as they would only get
+dirty again when next used, and the most she could be persuaded to do
+was to rub them round inside with a bit of old newspaper or a handful of
+grass. Needless to say, after a time I got tired of these methods, and
+so we parted.
+
+My next servant, Angelina, was one of the best I had, as she was clean,
+which was a great consideration, and also she was quick to learn and
+soon picked up the rudiments of cooking according to our ideas; her
+great failing, however, was that she was anything but honest, and could
+not refrain from petty pilfering; and another drawback to her was her
+objection to wearing shoes or stockings in the hot weather; in spite of
+being constantly told that she must not appear without them, she would
+insist in doing so, and this was a continual cause of trouble.
+
+After getting rid of No. 2 our real troubles began, and we had eight
+changes in ten months. At the time we were living in wooden huts about
+two miles from a village which was a summer resort for rich people from
+Buenos Aires, and this caused a dearth of servants during the summer
+months, as the place was full from the beginning of December to the end
+of March, and people who came up for the summer and rented houses
+usually were willing to pay anything to get servants, with the result
+that we outside would get none, or only the cast-off ones. Nos. 3 and 4
+stayed but a short time. My fifth attempt was a terrible girl, too dirty
+for words; and though apparently willing to learn, too utterly lacking
+in intelligence to ever learn anything. She used to get herself into the
+most awful grimy condition, and one incident during her time with me is
+worth mentioning. I had with great difficulty one day got her to
+understand that a wood floor could not be properly cleaned with a grass
+broom dipped in cold water and just swished about over it, and, by going
+down on my knees with a scrubbing brush and hot water and soap, and
+giving a practical demonstration of how a floor should be washed, had
+started her away to clean it, and judged that I might safely leave her,
+to attend to the other household duties in the kitchen. I must tell you
+that the day previously I had given her a practical lesson in
+black-leading a stove by doing it myself while she looked on. Well,
+after an hour in the kitchen I returned to see how she was getting on,
+when I found to my great pleasure that not content with scrubbing the
+floor, she had also attacked the stove with hot water, soap, and
+scrubbing brush, with the result that my hard work of the previous day
+was all undone and the whole room well sprinkled with black specks and
+the stove a mass of rust. Two weeks of similar experiences finished our
+acquaintance, and she gave place to No. 6. After I had spent three weeks
+teaching No. 6 cooking, she quietly informed me that she was leaving at
+the end of the week to take up a place as cook in Rosario, as she now
+knew enough cooking for the position; so I had not only wasted all my
+time in teaching her, but had paid her into the bargain for learning
+enough to leave me.
+
+The next servant, No. 7, Alexandrina, was, I think, the worst. She was a
+Spaniard from Barcelona. She was an awful individual, and would insist
+on wearing clothes of so light and scanty a nature that she was not
+decent to have about the house; also, whenever we happened to have a
+joke of any sort to laugh over at meals, she used immediately to come in
+from the kitchen to see what was going on, and I had the greatest
+difficulty to get her to return to the kitchen. I had to get rid of her,
+because her moral reputation was anything but good, and two days in the
+week she refused to get out of bed, and told me to do my own dirty work,
+as she was ill; so at the end of two weeks she had to go. No. 8, Maria,
+was a girl direct from the sierras, and was very stupid and silly, and
+did not a single thing. One day I was buying vegetables, and she asked
+me why I wanted to buy roots, and when I told her they were to eat, she
+said even poor people could afford to buy meat, and she would not eat
+them. One day I took this girl out with me to do some shopping, and
+called on some people who had a piano. It was twilight, and someone was
+playing the piano, and she rushed in the room and out again, with her
+face very white, and said someone was beating a big, black animal in the
+corner of the room, and it was screaming dreadfully with the pain. This
+girl's mother was a very talkative old lady, and would insist on coming
+with three children every day and taking up her position in the kitchen,
+and when once she commenced to talk, one could not get away from her. At
+the end of the month she came for the girl's pay, and wanted me to pay
+her more money, which I was not willing to do, as I had been unable to
+teach her much; so she asked if her daughter might go away for the day
+and night, as she had to bath. This I was only too willing to agree to,
+and let her go; but they returned in the middle of the night, and
+removed all her belongings. After a few days I managed to get No. 9, who
+was a widow with two children: but she only stayed two weeks. Our tenth
+and last attempt was made with No. 4 once more, as she was again able to
+come to us. She stayed two months, when we went away for four weeks'
+holiday. A week after our return I paid her in full for the month,
+though she had never been near the house all that time, and she promptly
+said she could not stay with us any longer, and left. We nearly got to
+No. 11, as we engaged a girl to come at $20 a month to start with, and
+she was to come the next morning at eight o'clock to begin work. She
+arrived at 10 a.m., and informed me that, as we had paid our last
+servant $25 the month, she could not come for less. I was so sick and
+tired of my experiences that this finished me, and I decided to do
+without any servant. Since then, for the last year, I have done the work
+myself.
+
+
+
+
+POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.
+
+
+
+
+POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.
+
+
+Yes, times have changed since I went to San Cristobal just twenty years
+ago. For then the English were pioneers, so to speak; not in a country
+of savagery, but of semi-savagery, a very different and much worse
+matter. I wonder is A.J., the Chief of Police, still to the fore? Ye
+gods, how that man tried to break my heart, and how nearly he succeeded!
+I was a Mayor-domo then, and G. was my boss, standing in the place of
+the owners to me. The boss had a mortal dread of the police and their
+powers, seen and unseen. So that when the worthy Chief of Police
+suddenly decided to add the trade of butchering to his many lucrative
+businesses, I received orders to sell him cows at twenty-five per cent.
+less price than I sold to any of his competitors. Thus, whereas I was
+selling them at twenty dollars paper, then worth about one pound per
+head, I had to sell him at fifteen shillings, with the inevitable result
+that he almost immediately became master of the situation and the entire
+local market became his, enabling him to charge what he liked for meat,
+while I was forbidden to raise the price of the cows sold him.
+
+Insatiable in his greed, he began to ask for cattle twice a week, always
+taking from ten to twenty animals, until one day, after exceptionally
+wet weather, I protested that it was not possible to round up the stock
+in the then state of the camp and destroy so much grass for a small
+bunch of cows. Unlucky thought and ill-judged protest! For when he urged
+that the inhabitants of the town were starving, and that a small point
+of half-breed heifers would do to go on with, I received orders to let
+him part out from our best herd. Twenty fine half-bred Herefords did he
+pick while I almost shed tears of blood, though all the time, of course,
+I had to show a smiling face.
+
+This sort of thing had been going on for some time, when one of the
+boundary riders told me that the fence between the town and one of our
+nearest paddocks had been cut during the night.
+
+"Then mend it up," said I.
+
+"Sir, it is mended already."
+
+Not a week had passed before the same man brought me the same report. So
+I determined to "parar rodeo" (round up the cattle) immediately, and
+count them. Twenty heifers short in one square league, and in less than
+a month! This thing had to stop. I told the Capataz to take the boundary
+rider off that beat, without telling him why, and then the Capataz and I
+patrolled the fence night after night for a week, during which it was
+never cut.
+
+We put a new boundary rider on, and three mornings later he came to see
+me bright and early, saying that not only had the fence been cut, but
+that there were distinct traces of cattle having passed out recently.
+
+After assuring myself that there was no doubt about the matter, for I
+found the hoof marks of what I calculated to be not less than twenty
+animals, I went post haste to my friend the Chief of Police, never
+doubting that after all the favours shown him he would prove a friend in
+need. I was young then.
+
+"You don't say so, Don Ernesto!" said his podgy, putty-faced little
+Highness. "Where was it? When was------ By heavens, somebody shall
+suffer for this! Just let me or any of my soldiers catch the thieves,
+and not one of them shall reach Santa Fé alive. Now, I'll tell you what.
+Just leave it to me, and don't you worry nor think any more about the
+matter, much less mention it to a soul. In less than two days I'll have
+the thief or thieves here in the stocks."
+
+I told him plainly that that was not my programme, and that, whatever he
+did, I was not going to leave that fence unpatrolled until I could move
+the stock out of the paddock.
+
+"Then this is what we'll do, Don Ernesto. You shall be one of us. You
+come and dine with me at six o'clock this evening, and afterwards we'll
+go out with the sergeant and five or six men and catch 'em."
+
+It was about the equinox, if I remember rightly--the springtime, when
+everything is lovely and lovable: the camp flowers all in bloom, the
+aroma of the trees burdening the air with delicious perfume, the fresh
+verdure and plenty of grass, the powerful, stout-hearted bounding of the
+horse (no longer "poor") beneath one, and, above all, the great issue
+expected of the business in hand, the most important business to me in
+the world at the time--all these combined spelled but one word, "Hope!"
+
+Carbine in hand, Colt in holster, I arrived at his residence. There he
+was, sitting at the door of his corner house, whence he could look down
+three streets at once. How like a spider, I thought.
+
+His welcome was cordial, but he seemed to smile at my eagerness, and
+told me that he never dined before eight.
+
+"But let us sit here in the cool of the evening," said he, handing out a
+chair for me to sit by him on the footpath, "and let us take some
+refreshment to while away the time. But, tell me, where did you say that
+the fence was cut? But did you really see signs that cattle had passed?
+Preposterous! The sons of guns shall suffer for this. Eh well, I'm glad
+of it in a way--glad to have a little work, and perhaps a little
+excitement. It doesn't do to have a too orderly district, for the
+Governor and his satellites in Santa Fé imagine I'm lazy and not looking
+after my business if they hear of no commotions. That black fellow you
+sent me the other day, Don Ernesto--the fellow that was molesting a mad
+woman in the camp--- I've got him seventeen years in the line for that.
+I wish you would send me a few more, for hardly a letter comes from
+Santa Fé in which I am not asked to send in recruits, so hard up are
+they for Provincial soldiers."
+
+Just then a poor Italian colonist came up, hat in hand. He, too, and all
+his class were pioneers in those days, and God knows what they suffered.
+
+"Well, what d'ye want?" asked my companion.
+
+"Sir," said the wretched man, stuttering in his nervousness, "one of my
+bullocks has been stolen, and I know the thief. I have been to the
+Justice of the Peace, and he told me to bring the thief to him; but,
+sir, the th-thief refuses to come."
+
+"_Bueno_! Ten dollars, and ten dollars _down_," roared the majesty of
+law.
+
+"But, sir,----"
+
+"No! But me no buts! Ten dollars at once, or I'll call the sergeant to
+lock you up until you can get it."
+
+I could see that the poor fellow's heart was breaking as he drew the
+money from his pocket and handed it over. Smilingly the bully turned to
+me and said, as his victim walked slowly away, "I'll bet you that that
+man doesn't come around to molest me again. I'll guarantee to you, Don
+Ernesto, that there isn't a district in the whole province where so few
+appeals for justice are made."
+
+At last it was dinner-time, and, being ushered into a dirty room with a
+brick floor, dim light and grimy tablecloth, I seated myself at the
+table with my host, his secretary, the doctor, and a clerk. The dinner
+was in the usual native style of those days: ribs of beef roasted on
+the gridiron, beef and pumpkin boiled together, to finish up with
+"caldo," which is simply the water in which the beef and vegetables have
+been boiled, with a good thick coating of grease.
+
+No sooner had we begun dinner than it was noticed that we had no wine.
+
+"No wine! How's this? What d'ye mean?" as he angrily turned to the
+sergeant who was waiting.
+
+"If you please, sir, So-and-so and So-and-so," mentioning the name of a
+local firm of storekeepers, "say that they can supply no more wine until
+they can get some of their accounts settled."
+
+"How dare you bring me such a message as that! Take the corporal with a
+couple of men and bring a half-barrel at once--in less than three
+minutes, or I'll know the reason why."
+
+The barrel was brought, and, with a bit and brace, quickly tapped, and
+the wine set flowing round the table.
+
+The dinner dragged on and on, until I thought he meant us to sit there
+all night. Ten o'clock came, half-past, and then eleven. Then I began to
+smell a rat. I kept on urging the necessity for action, but it became
+more and more evident that the Chief was fooling. He pressed wine upon
+all and upon me in particular, while he drank little himself, although
+he pretended otherwise. At last, I could stand it no longer, and got up
+in no very good humour to go.
+
+"No, but stop, Don Ernesto! Where are you going? Sit down again. The
+horses are not saddled yet: not even caught up. Sit down and have
+patience and we'll all go with you in good time."
+
+It was after twelve when at last we made a start. There were the Chief,
+the sergeant, a corporal, four men, and myself. We rode slowly in a
+northerly direction until we came to a small gate in the fence, of which
+I had the key. All the way thither the Chief, while commending me for my
+forethought in bringing arms, had been impressing upon me the importance
+of not using them, no matter what happened, "Because, you see, you are
+not an arm of the law, and if you were to shoot anyone, I should be
+obliged to arrest you and send you to Santa Fé."
+
+When we got through the fence, what was my surprise when the Chief said,
+"Bueno, Don Ernesto, you and I have had a long day. What I propose is
+that you and I off-saddle and doss down here, while the sergeant and men
+patrol with muffled bits and spurs at a short distance from the fence.
+Then the moment they hear anything they can come and let us know!"
+
+In vain I protested that this was not my idea at all, and that I too
+wanted to do the patrolling, but when he told a man to take the saddle
+off my horse and shake down a bed for me, I thought it wiser to
+acquiesce, or, at least, appear to do so. I shall never forget that
+night. How we talked and talked and talked as we lay beneath the
+brilliant stars, I, boiling with rage and anxiety under my assumed
+tranquillity, while he, doubtless, was as much annoyed at having to keep
+me in conversation. It must have been nearly four o'clock when I told
+him that I really must sleep. "Bueno," said he, as he rolled over on his
+side, "hasta mañana."
+
+In five minutes he was snoring. Even so, I did not dare to move, for
+fear that he might be foxing. About an hour passed, during which he
+moved, coughed, expectorated, and had other signs of conscious
+animation, much to my disgust, until at last I thought the snoring
+sounded too genuine to be shammed, so I crept towards him and whispered
+in his ear that I thought I heard sounds of movement. But his snoring
+was rhythmic and swinish, so I gathered up my saddle and gear and stole
+over to my horse, which was picketed some yards off, and proceeded to
+saddle him up. In doing so, my stirrups somehow clashed and thought it
+was all up, for what a fool I should look if he woke and discovered me.
+But it was all right: the music continued.
+
+I led the horse for some little distance, then mounting, I rode him down
+alongside the fence for about a mile until I came to a fresh gap in it.
+
+Horror! Even though it was but what my suspicions had depicted, the
+realisation came as a shock to me. "The--! The--!" To repeat my
+expressions would edify no one.
+
+Guided by the signal-lights at the station, I moved along at a smart
+trot and soon recognised the quick tramping of animals ahead. Then I
+drew back, and as the day was just breaking, I drew round to the west
+side of the cavalcade, so that I might see without being seen. Yes, sure
+enough, there were six military chacots outlined against the great sky
+and a troop of animals ahead of them.
+
+I halted to let them get well away from me, and then, with rage and
+hatred in my heart, swearing vengeance all the while, I galloped as hard
+as ever I could to the estancia, to impatiently await the uprising of my
+boss.
+
+"We must wire, or one of us must go to the Governor in Santa Fé at
+once," I urged. But what was my disgust to be met with but a quiet smile
+of amusement!
+
+"Not if I know it," said he. "Why, good God, man, do you want to have
+all our throats cut? This man is a personal friend of the Governor's,
+and what satisfaction do you think we are likely to get out of that?"
+
+"Then let us go to the Consul, the British Minister, or even to the
+President of the Republic?"
+
+A quiet smile with a negatory shake of the head was the only answer.
+
+A fortnight later I sought him in his private sitting-room and found the
+Chief of Police sitting in an easy-chair.
+
+"Ha! ha! ha! Don Ernesto. So you caught us, did you? Well, it was worth
+the fun. I never laughed so much in all my life as when I awoke that
+morning and found that you had given me the slip!"
+
+
+
+
+A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO.
+
+
+After three years on an estancia in the vast monotonous, treeless, but
+most fertile plains of the Central Argentine, under scorching sun,
+driving rains, and biting wind, one feels that one would like to see a
+river sometimes, animal life and more congenial surroundings; and so I
+determined to visit the Northern Chaco, that enormous tract of land
+which lies North of Santa Fé and stretches right away for many hundreds
+of miles to North, East, and West.
+
+Leaving Rosario by the night express, one crosses the great, slightly
+undulating plains, probably among the richest in the world for the
+growth of wheat, linseed, and maize, reaching Santa Fé early the
+following morning. This town, the capital and Government centre of the
+province, is rather an uninteresting place; chiefly noticeable in it are
+the great number of fine churches and the magnificent sawmills owned by
+a large French company. Santa Fé is supposed to be one of the most
+religious centres in the Republic. More than once it has almost been
+washed away in an eddy of the giant Parana in flood, the water rising
+four feet in the houses on the highest level in the town.
+
+After spending a day of sight-seeing in Santa Fé, we embarked at
+nightfall for Vera, the headquarters of the Santa Fé Land Company's wood
+department, arriving there in the early morning. The land around here
+from the train appears to be a dry, salty country, devoid of herbage,
+and only valuable on account of the excellent forest trees and timber.
+
+Our morning meal was taken in the station waiting-room (the only
+restaurant in the town), and consisted of cold coffee and what the
+Argentine understands by boiled eggs, which have in reality been in
+boiling water half a minute, and which, in order to eat, one has to tip
+into a wine-glass and beat up with a fork, adding pepper and salt, etc.
+This is the general way of eating eggs in South America; an egg cup is
+one of the few things one cannot get in the country without going to an
+English store in Buenos Aires.
+
+Leaving Vera at 8 a.m. the train goes at a snail's pace along the branch
+line to Reconquista, covering the distance of about thirty leagues in
+five hours. Arriving there in the sweltering midday heat, we were met by
+an English friend and his capataz, the latter dressed in his enormous
+slouch hat, deerskin apron, and silver spurs weighing probably a full
+kilo.
+
+One cannot help noticing at once the different type of natives; from the
+slow, slouching, don't-care kind of men, which one sees in Cordoba and
+Southern Santa Fé, to the quick, straight, hawk-eyed half-Indian
+Chaquenos.
+
+Reconquista on a hot summer's day is one of the dirtiest places on this
+earth, which is saying a good deal. One drives through streets two feet
+deep in light sandy dust, which hangs in clouds all over the town. There
+is an excellent hotel in the centre of the town, built on typical
+Spanish plans with fine large open patios, which are filled with
+splendid tropical plants and ferns. Having washed off the dust of three
+days' travel from our weary persons, and having changed into more
+suitable travelling gear, we sat down to an excellent spread.
+
+In the cool of the evening we made a tour of the town, being most
+interested in the cigar factories, where we bought excellent smokes for
+$2 a hundred, all hand-made from pure tobacco leaf by the brown-hued
+lasses of Reconquista.
+
+The rest of the evening we spent in unpacking our native saddles, and
+preparing everything for our long horseback journey--not having
+forgotten to see that our tropilla of fifteen grey ponies were fit and
+ready to make an early start next morning.
+
+Three a.m. next morning found us out in the "corrales" having our ponies
+allotted to us by the capataz--we found the tropilla on "ronda"--that
+is, in a corner with a lasso tied across in front of them, the height of
+their chests, and all facing outwards. This is the most general way of
+teaching horses to stand in the Chaco, as, if taught to stand singly,
+they would fall too easy a prey to the Indians and gauchos. In order to
+saddle these ponies we had to "manear" them, that is, tie their forelegs
+together, for without this they refused to let us put the blankets on
+their backs.
+
+All being ready, we started off, four of us, two in front and two
+behind, with eleven loose ponies between us. By this time the sky was
+beginning to grow light, and evidently the fresh morning air had
+disagreed with my friend T.'s horse, which suddenly cleared down a side
+street with his head between his forelegs and his back arched like the
+bend in an archer's bow.
+
+After some seconds of this amusing sight T. managed to get the pony's
+head up and came along again, looking very warm and beaming; his
+pink-nosed pony quite satisfied that he would have to carry more than
+his own weight for some distance further.
+
+Leaving Reconquista on the north we crossed, over an old railway
+embankment, a large stretch of low country, through which a small stream
+glided with winding course, and jogging along league after league we
+gradually got into more interesting country: little clumps of trees with
+very thick undergrowth, clinging creepers, bright-coloured flowers, and
+gorgeously plumaged birds.
+
+All along the sides of the roads were little farms, apparently
+uncultivated, except for small patches of wonderfully grown maize and
+browning linseed. Practically all these farms are owned by Swiss and
+German peasants, each one with his small herd of cows and working
+bullocks.
+
+We changed our ponies every three or four leagues, always going at the
+same jog-trot, stopping occasionally at a wayside inn to wet our parched
+throats with fresh well water (with a drop of caña in it to kill the
+microbes), and smoking hard all the time to keep off the swarms of
+mosquitoes.
+
+After travelling ten leagues or so we began to leave these habitations
+behind us, and got into wilder country with no fences, only long
+stretches of undulating land, dotted with patches of splendid-looking
+trees and enticing shade.
+
+The road occasionally crossed small streams, which gradually became more
+tropical looking, until we came to quite a large river, two or three
+hundred metres wide, looking beautifully peaceful and oily. Standing
+above on the bank, in the shade of some magnificent quebracho trees, we
+looked down upon this lazy stretch of perfect scenery, when suddenly
+there was a slight disturbance in the water and a small black dot
+appeared on the top of the water. The capataz at once pulled out his
+revolver, all of us doing likewise, only to have to put them back again,
+as the dot had disappeared as quickly as it came. This was the first
+sign of wild animal life we saw, the "jacaré" or alligator. In the more
+civilised parts of the Chaco, these animals, as well as the carpincho or
+water-hog, are getting quite rare, and having been so much shot at and
+worried they need the most careful stalking.
+
+As we got further away, we came upon many more of these streams, all
+looking much the same; some had bridges over them made of quebracho
+logs, laid endways on and covered with earth, very dangerous to cross
+after wet weather or floods, especially at night, as they are generally
+full of holes where the earth has fallen in.
+
+At 10 a.m. each day we unsaddled for lunch, which was generally composed
+of "charque" or salted beef, biscuits, and coffee. The first night we
+slept at the last habitation which we saw, a small wayside inn. Arriving
+there late in the evening, we had the greatest difficulty in obtaining
+entrance on account of the chorus of barking, snapping dogs, and on
+account of the innkeeper's fear of drunken gauchos.
+
+Another early start on the second day saw us well on our journey by
+siésta time, which we spent on the edge of a very fine forest. The
+afternoon was very hot, and we did not start off again until 4 o'clock.
+During the evening we swam across a small river which we found
+overflowing its banks on account of the local rains, and, as darkness
+fell, we found it almost impossible to see our way on account of the
+fireflies, which made such a glare in front of us that the slight track
+which we had been following was almost invisible. It was a very dark
+night, and once or twice we felt rain. We had to go very slowly, so that
+we should not miss the track. Thus we trotted on in Indian file, each of
+us now leading spare horses, in silence, except when one of us asked how
+many leagues it was to the estancia, only to jog on again for what
+seemed two or three hours, until almost midnight. With a cheerful yell
+we suddenly came on a barbed wire fence, and after hunting about for a
+time, a wire gate.
+
+Immediately tongues seemed to be mechanically loosened and the
+conversation flowed freely, discussing the ride, horses, coming
+stiffness, and all the things that one has to talk about after two and
+a-half days in the saddle. On reaching the estancia about 2 a.m., none
+of us needed much bed, and throwing our things down on the grass
+outside, we soon were dreaming of alligators, broken bridges, swimming
+rivers, etc.
+
+About 10 o'clock the next morning I awoke to find myself on a most neat
+little estancia high up on a hill, overlooking, across a slight valley,
+magnificent forests where one could see the glint of running water.
+
+The house was brick floored and had four very nice rooms, which had been
+colour-washed by my friends with excellent success. The ceilings at once
+attracted attention, being of a deep-coloured black wood, well oiled and
+seasoned. "Timbo" it is called, and is the best carving and furniture
+wood in the country.
+
+Out in the garden were oranges, lemons, citrons, pomegranates, limes,
+and all kinds of luxurious fruits and vegetables. In a small fenced
+paddock at the end of the garden, were sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, cotton,
+tobacco, and some magnificent maize.
+
+The men's huts were made of mud over a cane network, and the roofs were
+made of split palm trees, hollowed out and made in the form of a large
+~~~~~~~ the palms being placed concavely and convexly alternately,
+making fine drainage for the heavy rains. The whole place was surrounded
+by a ring of fine chaco paraiso trees and "ombu." The horse corrals were
+all _palo a pique_, that is, made of solid posts, stuck in close
+together side by side, and about two metres high, with no wire.
+
+The camp was more or less on the real banks of the Parana, sloping away
+to the river four leagues away, and forming one of the most fertile
+spots in the Republic. This low-lying land is the finest and cheapest
+grazing in the north, but it is unreliable because it is quite inundated
+in time of floods, when the cattle have to be withdrawn to higher camp.
+
+During various excursions on the following days we saw tracks of
+"tigers" (leopard) and "lions" (puma); the kill of the latter, a small
+gazelle buck, "guasuncho," we found neatly covered up with grass and
+leaves, and easily distinguishable from the tiger's kill, which is
+always left uncovered. A very fine tiger's skin was brought in one
+night, measuring 1.84 metres from the tip of the nose to the root of the
+tail, and 1.56 metres across. The man had suddenly come across it while
+on foot in the monte, and after wounding it with his Winchester had run
+it down with his dogs and killed it.
+
+One evening we caught sight of a tapi (tapir) coming down to drink, but
+were unable to shoot on account of the bad light. Each day we saw many
+wild pigs ("chancho moro") and various kinds of wild cats, including the
+splendid "gato once" or ounce cat, whose skin is one of the finest, and
+only to be compared with the "lobo" or golden otter, which has a most
+magnificent fluffy pelt with a golden tint on the tips. The latter is
+unfortunately getting very rare now.
+
+The great wolf or "aguaras" is still common, and is a very stately
+beast, as he slopes along with his hind-quarters well under him, with
+pricked ears and shaggy black mane.
+
+The forests here are mostly in long strips and clumps, with excellent
+pasture land between them; and they contain, among other commoner chaco
+trees, lance wood, four crowns, and tala. Amongst the strange trees
+there is one enormous broad-leafed tree called "guapoij," which has long
+creeping roots, which cling on to neighbouring trees and gradually pull
+them down and absorb all their goodness, killing them, and in some
+marvellous way apparently eating them up. One finds occasionally one of
+these trees embracing another bigger than itself, and gradually rooting
+it out of the ground.
+
+On all low ground one generally finds "Zeibos"--a tree with very soft
+wood and very pretty branches of scarlet flowers.
+
+The wild apricot or "ijguajay" grows everywhere, and looks a very
+tempting fruit, fatal, however, to most Europeans, as it is a very
+powerful purge. The Indian children eat the fruit with joy, and it
+apparently has no bad effect on them.
+
+The forests are full of all kinds of animals, and, in addition to those
+already mentioned, there are red deer, black and brown monkeys, and
+bear, and the ring-tailed coons, which latter make noises like the
+grunting of pigs.
+
+Of ground game there are foxes, tattoo or mulita, armadillo, and
+ostriches.
+
+Amongst the birds the most common are various kinds of hawks, including
+some very much like the great bustard, English brown buzzard, and osprey
+falcon, and two or three kinds of parrots and cockatoos, the green
+parrots being the curse to agriculturists, eating all the maize, as the
+locusts do in the South.
+
+There are many different kinds of "carpinteros" or woodpeckers, most of
+them having most wonderful plumage of brown, green, scarlet, blue, and
+yellow.
+
+A strange bird which is not often seen is the "tucan," a small black
+bird, with a beak almost as big as his body, and of a splendid orange
+colour with a scarlet tip; he is a top-heavy looking little chap when
+seen seated on an orange tree, his favourite haunt.
+
+Amongst table birds there are grey pheasants, martinetta, and
+partridges. Of wild fowl, there are enormous varieties, including the
+"pato real" or great tree duck, whistling mallard, various kinds of teal
+and shovellers, widgeon, muscony and hooded duck, black-headed geese,
+grey geese, and swans. Amongst water-birds are the black, grey, and
+white "garza" or heron. The latter are especially valuable on account of
+the splendid feathers on the back of their necks. Of the smaller birds
+there is the gallinetta, a kind of landrail, the curse of hunters
+shooting wild duck, their wretched screech warning every bird in the
+district. The beautifully coloured and almost transparently winged
+golden moorhen covers every stretch of water inland, and the "chaja" or
+wild turkey, one of the most useless birds in the Chaco, and quite
+uneatable, sends forth his dismal cry "chaja."
+
+The kingfishers are, perhaps, the most noticeable of all the river
+birds, and are of all sizes, from the small European variety to one
+almost ten times their size. Gorgeously plumaged, they skim, like
+flashes of light, over the water, which is full of all kinds of fish
+including "Dorado," a splendid fighting fish, excellent eating, which
+can be caught with rod or fly, and goes up to 10 kilos in weight;
+"Suravi," a great mud fish, which is seen sometimes basking out of
+water, weighing up to 50 kilos, with enormous head, and good eating;
+"Savala," the mud-eating cruiser, which one sees nearly always with its
+tail out of water, and which makes excellent revolver shooting;
+"Palmieta," the curse of the Chaco streams and rivers, making bathing
+unadvisable on account of its hostile assaults on the extremities of all
+foreign bodies; and the "rallo," or sun fish, a large flat fish with a
+long tail.
+
+Thus was spent a week of happy days of excursions and explorations,
+where sometimes we had to walk through great distances of undergrowth
+and the everywhere-abundant prickly cactus, cutting our way with large
+cavalry swords, always with our eyes skinned to catch sight of some
+strange bird, beast, or flower. Sometimes we waded for miles through
+swamps, which, in some places, abound with enormous water snakes up to 6
+metres long.
+
+We put up all kinds of water-fowl, as we struggled on, splashing
+through rivers, clambering up and skeltering down slippery banks,
+reaching home tired and weary every night to recount all the day's
+doings, sitting out in the patio in the cool evening, eaten up by
+mosquitoes.
+
+So ended my holiday, with hurried packing, much toast-drinking, and a
+final little farewell dance to the accompaniment of guitar, gramophone,
+mouth-organ, and accordion. The journey south was of no great interest,
+half on horseback, half in "galera," or public mail coach, with, as
+fellow passengers, a German traveller, a curé (most jovial of beings,
+who had brought enough food with him to feed a whole regiment), a head
+of police and his men, and two coach boys.
+
+The coach, with five young horses tied in abreast, went bumping and
+jolting along hour after hour, until we came to a big river,
+unfortunately in flood. The horses were unhitched, tied together and
+swum across; a boat coming from some unseen corner, took passengers and
+luggage across, leaving the coach itself alone, with a long wire tied to
+the end of the pole. The horses were fastened to the end of this wire on
+the other side of the river, and then, with a whoop and a cheer, the
+coach tumbled head-over-heels into the raging flood, twisting and
+turning in all ways, first one side up and then the other, until at last
+it reached the near bank. And so we travelled on, back to civilisation;
+a tiring journey in dust and heat by rail, bringing us home to the same
+old flat, treeless, priceless plains of the Central Argentine, to dream
+for many days of birds, fishes, animals, flowers, trees, good friends,
+and the fine natives of the Northern Chaco.
+
+
+
+
+WORK IN THE WOODS.
+
+
+
+
+WORK IN THE WOODS.
+
+
+The worker in the forests is of necessity an early riser, the nature of
+his task requiring that he should be up betimes. His preparations for
+breakfast are simple, and he is ready to start out after half an hour
+spent in imbibing a few matés full of yerba infusion. The cartmen tie in
+their bullocks, kept overnight in a corral, and drive off to bring in
+wood prepared by the axemen, the bullock-herd takes his charges to
+pasture and the men's employer mounts his horse to visit the camp of his
+axemen, or goes to the store to fetch meat and provisions. The axemen
+generally live in tents or temporary shelters, convenient to their work,
+and some distance from the contractor's rancho. They have to work hard,
+stripped to the waist in summer; they fell the trees, and either square
+the logs for baulks and sleepers, or cut the bark and outside layer of
+white wood off to make logs for export, working by moonlight when the
+heat of the day is excessive. Their food consists of biscuits, called
+Galleta, dried to the consistency of flint; these they soften in soup
+made from fresh meat or dried "Charki." To this soup is added rice,
+maize, or "Fido's," which is coarse macaroni.
+
+The favourite roast, called the "Asado," is made from ribs of beef
+impaled on a stick and placed near the fire till sufficiently cooked.
+This delicacy, usually as hard as nails, is enjoyed by the men, who cut
+off portions, which they hold in their teeth, while, with a jack-knife,
+mouthfuls are sawn off close to the nose, at the risk of shortening that
+organ. Water is drunk, or coffee sweetened liberally with moist sugar.
+This coffee is made in the country, chiefly from beans or maize, with a
+large percentage of chicory to give it body.
+
+It is picturesque to see a long string of carts enter a deposit to the
+sound of pistol cracks from long whips, and to watch the cartmen unload
+the heavy logs.
+
+A cartman will load his cart with logs of a ton and upwards, each with
+the aid of his team of bullocks, placing the chains so that the animals,
+at the desired moment, by advancing a short distance, roll the log from
+the ground on to the cart. In the case of very heavy logs the cart is
+placed upside down on the log, which is then bound to it, and the
+bullocks pull the whole thing over. The distances which have to be
+covered by these carts are considerable, fifteen miles in the day is not
+unusual, changing bullocks once en route, but a great deal depends on
+the roads being dry, as in wet weather the wheels sink up to the hubs in
+the mud and the roads are soon dotted here and there with loads
+abandoned till better conditions enable them to be reloaded and
+delivered at a depository.
+
+These cartmen are hardy fellows and work wet to the skin, covered with
+mud up to their knees, or, again, hidden in the dust from the roads,
+which envelopes the moving carts in a choking cloud.
+
+It is little to be wondered at if the axemen and cartmen, when pay day
+arrives, go in for a spree, which for them usually takes the form of
+gambling, enlivened by dancing and drinking till daylight.
+
+The result of sojourning in the woods does not, as might be expected,
+have the effect of making these men unsociable, and they embrace every
+opportunity of attending a race meeting or dance. When the men are
+excited by drink quarrels are frequent, and the police search them for
+arms before admitting them to a Re-union.
+
+Arms are carried ostensibly as a precaution against meeting with
+Indians and bad characters in the lonely recesses of the forest, and the
+men like to carry a knife and a good revolver, or, better still, a
+Winchester, to enable them to get a shot at any wild animal they may
+come across, the skins of these being much prized. They take a pleasure
+in presenting a visitor with a puma skin or other trophy of the chase.
+
+Among these people one looks for, and finds, the primitive idea of
+hospitality, an unaffected welcome and willingness to give of the best
+they have. Here are men independent by virtue of their labour, which
+gives them sufficient for their daily wants. They have no thought for
+the morrow or what will be their lot when too feeble to work.
+
+The axemen, who are natives of Italy and Austria, are very good workmen,
+but compare unfavourably with natives of the country, being extremely
+dirty in their persons, to such a degree that it is a disagreeable
+experience to have to interview them in an office, whereas the Argentine
+native puts on his best apparel when he goes to an estancia.
+
+The forest workers are nomads, and, as the woods get cut out, move on to
+fresh camping grounds, leaving the woods to revert to their former
+solitude, a haunt for the wild animals, who creep back once silence has
+returned.
+
+
+
+
+CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS.
+
+
+
+
+CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS.
+
+
+To a man coming from the Southern Camps to the forest belt of Santa Fé,
+the cachapé must appeal as something peculiar to the district, and most
+essentially local. He has had a surfeit of carts with two wheels, each
+12 feet high, and dragged by anything from sixteen to twenty-eight
+horses; Russian carts, like Thames punts on four wheels, no longer amuse
+him, while American spring carts are much too European to warrant
+unslinging the Kodak. But the cachapé--here is something not to be
+lightly passed over. Lying idle it may not strike him at first sight as
+a cart, but rather as a remnant of some revolution, when, tired of
+waging light operatic war, the army disbanded, leaving their
+gun-carriages to serve more peaceful purposes.
+
+Two pairs of short, squat, enormously powerful wheels; between, and
+joining them, a roughly hewn pole and various chains in an apparently
+hopeless tangle. Yet see them in work--every niche doing its work, every
+chain taking ten per cent, more strain than it was ever intended to
+take, creaking, groaning, crashing into holes, crawling laboriously over
+snaps and trunks to fall again with its load of four tons with a
+jerking, swaying, and straining as though struggling to free itself from
+its load, and you recognise the _raison d'être_ of the queer little
+cart.
+
+The capaché is not without its humorous moments. Supposing the cartmen
+find a log too heavy to load in the ordinary way; they do not return and
+inform the boss that the log must be hoisted by mechanical means or
+propose high-priced cranes. Seeing that obviously they can't put the log
+on the cart, they accept the alternative and put the cart on the log,
+chain it on securely, then haul everything right side up again with the
+bullocks and proceed to the unloading station. Once there, it might be
+supposed that they would tumble the cart over again, but here the
+intelligent foreigner is misled. The correct proceeding now is for the
+cartmen to lie on their backs and push with their feet, after the manner
+of the gentlemen in music halls, who, reclining on sawed-off sofas,
+twiddle gold-spangled spheres with their toes; only our cartmen lie in
+water and mud and the gold-spangled sphere is changed for a three-ton
+log. The force the men can exert in this position is little short of
+marvellous. Out one crawls, reviews the situation, then back again
+under, a creak, a combined push, and over the wheels comes the log,
+throwing up the mud and water for 50 feet around. Then back they go
+again for another load six miles through the forest. Wet through, their
+clothes hanging in ribbons from shoulders and belt, one day's mud caking
+on another's, and with a long sword stuck through their belt in front,
+they present a figure comical enough were it not that one knew the other
+side of the picture.
+
+Reeking with inherited consumption, they live the one life which is
+certain to kill them before they are forty. Wet through and chilled,
+they are called upon again and again to suddenly exert enormous
+strength, since no man can desert his cart. He must "get there." He must
+get out of his trouble. He eats largely when and how he can, and when he
+has saved any money the merry "Taba" bone charms it from him in a way
+too universal perhaps to call for any remark. Sometimes he finishes his
+carting days through too decided opinions as to the other man's
+integrity in playing "Taba"; sometimes on his canvas bed in a hut of mud
+and branches, his browny yellow face and sunken eyes asking no pity,
+betraying no emotion; in either case he is rarely over thirty-five and
+often leaves a wife and children.
+
+I say "wife and children," since it sounds the usual thing; but, as a
+matter of strict fact, the ceremony of getting married is deprecated
+among them, as it signifies "Putting on side," and is only resorted to
+when they are in a village and there is a chance that the presents that
+are given will more than compensate the tremendous expense they have to
+go to. Speaking to a gentleman of this kidney, I was informed that when
+the cross-eyed blacksmith Strike got married, it cost him three dollars
+and a-half (say 5s.) in fire crackers alone, and my informant went on to
+say that the only case he knew of where marriage had been really
+successful was that of the fair-haired carpenter, who was married and
+asked all the bosses on the place, who each gave something, with which
+he was able to buy a sewing machine for the eldest girl, then aged six.
+
+But, mark you, lest you should judge them lightly, remember that their
+unwritten pact is just as binding to them as our formal marriage tie is
+to us, and that in their way they are probably better husbands and
+fathers than your Balham clerk. In their young days they may chop and
+change, which changes are generally marked by little iron crosses in the
+woods, but, once they have settled down, desertion is far rarer than in
+civilised countries. I have seen a native workman with his shoulder
+blade in his arm-pit, his face cut to ribbons, and with pieces of
+casting sticking to his back through the carrying away of a crane, cavil
+against the idea of being taken into the township where the doctor was,
+lest his old woman, unused to a town life, should find the surroundings
+uncongenial. This in a broken, muttered whisper, twelve hours after the
+accident had happened, during which time every new arrival had been
+called upon to witness the peculiar nature of his injuries.
+
+Much has been said about the terrible wickedness of the lower-class
+native, his gambling, his immorality, his almost fanatical desire to
+murder everyone he sees; and for complete and detailed lists of crimes
+and monstrosities appeal to any newcomer, who will be delighted to hold
+forth on the subject; but when one has lived with them and worked with
+them under varying conditions, and has suffered in some degree what they
+suffer, one hesitates to condemn them offhand.
+
+Blackguards they are--but manly, humorous blackguards. Immoral, one must
+confess them to be, according to our lights, but even in England "Custom
+from time immemorial" is held as law.
+
+The vast majority will steal raw hide gear as a cat steals fish, but
+will not touch your money, much as in a community of young men property
+is common to all with the same exception. They will lie if scared, or
+rather will substitute for the truth something they think you would like
+to hear, and they will do as little work as you will let them.
+
+But, have a bad case of sickness in the house and ask a man to go out at
+midnight with the carriage to get the doctor, or to go on horseback on
+his own horse twenty miles for medicine, and he goes as quietly and
+pleasantly as though he were going about the most commonplace work. He
+expects no tip, no extra wage, nor is he lauded as a hero. He may have
+come down, horse and all, in the dark, but is happy if he has not
+smashed the bottle of medicine, and he resumes his work on return, just
+as if he hadn't been up all night riding at a hard canter over broken
+ground full of holes and snags.
+
+No, he is by no means an ideal worker, neither is he half so bad as he's
+painted, and I'd rather meet him in the next world than lots of men who
+boss him in this.
+
+
+
+
+MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.
+
+
+
+MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.
+
+
+Eighty square leagues of dense forest. One is inclined to feel a trifle
+small and overcome when this fraction of Mother Earth is put into one's
+hands (metaphorically), with orders to know all about it and to be able
+to answer all questions as to what is going on in it.
+
+The work is like most other occupations: not quite so romantic as it
+sounds at first, but as interesting as one cares to make it.
+
+One's main employment can best be illustrated by a leaf out of a mental
+diary.
+
+Fulano de Tal, axeman, wants credit for provisions at the almacen or
+general store--Has he sufficient wood cut to warrant it? It is the
+Mayor-domo's business to find out.
+
+With this end in view, he rides along "The Mangy" watercourse till he
+comes to the lowland of "The Blind Cow." The barking of half a dozen
+mongrel curs leads him into the edge of the forest, and he comes upon
+the residence of Fulano de Tal. The man has perhaps recently moved to
+this spot, and has not had time or energy to build himself a "rancho,"
+and therefore the homestead consists of about four yards of canvas
+stretched across the branch of a tree like the roof of a tent.
+
+Beneath this is a "New Home" sewing machine, a Brummagem bedstead, and a
+small trunk, made burglar-proof by innumerable bands and fastenings of
+bright tin, or even gilt wall-paper. Scattered around are the little
+Fulanos, in costumes varying from nothing to very little.
+
+Their mother ceases her cooking operations, wipes her hands on the
+nearest child's head, and invites the visitor to dismount.
+
+He answers that he is looking for her husband, and she directs him with
+a sweep of the hand which covers a quadrant of the compass and includes
+several square leagues of thick forest. Taking a likely track, however,
+he soon hears the ring of axe-strokes, and finds his man patiently
+chipping away at a felled tree, which is rapidly taking the form of a
+baulk, with the sides as smooth as if sawn.
+
+His horse is tied up near, and he takes the Mayor-domo through his
+"corte," showing him the wood prepared for the carters. Give him a
+chance and he will count every log twice (most likely he has already
+plastered mud over the marks which show the rotten patch in the wood,
+and is wondering whether he has cleared the black sufficiently off a
+piece of "campana" to persuade a reasonable man that it is really fresh
+wood).
+
+It is part of the inspector's stock in trade to know these and a myriad
+other tricks, too numerous to take separately.
+
+The typical axeman in the Santa Fé Chaco is more genuinely "childlike"
+than, and quite as "bland" as, the famous Celestial. He never quite
+grows up; he will spend his last dollar on a mouth-organ when he is
+forty, and give a wild war-whoop of delight as a stack of newly piled
+sleepers falls crashing to the ground.
+
+He loves sweets and the bright clothes which he wears with childish
+dignity on feast-days and holidays.
+
+His _amour propre_ is tremendous, and influences his code of honour to a
+great extent. The first ten commandments he will break most cheerfully,
+but the eleventh--"Thou shalt not be found out"--he respects to the best
+of his power.
+
+Stealing, for instance, he regards as a pastime, but call him a thief
+and you must be prepared for trouble. A perfect instance of this can be
+quoted in the case of an estanciero who found a peon wearing one of his
+shirts.
+
+[Illustration: _Square Quebracho Logs worked by the Axeman, showing
+Resin oozing therefrom._]
+
+"You are wearing my shirt," said the master. "No, Señor; I bought it in
+the store." "But you stole it from me," insisted the estanciero,
+pointing to the tab at the front, where his name was written in marking
+ink; "there is my name on it."
+
+The man, being quite illiterate, had not reckoned on such damning
+evidence, but he recovered himself and replied with dignity: "Very well,
+Señor; if it is yours, take it; _but don't call me a thief_."
+
+Honesty is with them, admittedly, a matter of degree. A man will always
+say if questioned about some small deficiency, "Do you think I would
+swindle you for a matter of two dollars?" or "Do you think I would risk
+my credit with the Company for the sake of _one_ calf?" To be honest in
+a case where a larger profit is involved is a height of integrity to
+which he does not even pretend. "I am going to be frank with you"--that
+is an expression which puts the wise man on his guard, for it is
+generally followed by a cascade of lies.
+
+Business must be done on a completely different basis to that which
+obtains in England. To return to our friend Fulano, for instance: he
+wishes perhaps to ask for an increase of fifty cents per ton on his
+wood, and introduces the subject by a short conversation about the
+points of his horse, passing on to the bad state of the bullocks and
+enlarging on the chance of a rainy winter. You have just decided that he
+has nothing more to say and are preparing to leave him, when he makes
+his request with as much circumlocution as possible. To have come
+straight to the point would have been contrary to all his ideas of
+correct procedure.
+
+I have heard two natives make one another's acquaintance with a bout of
+verbal sparring which an Englishman would obviate by a single sentence,
+such as "Good morning; Mr. Brown, I believe?" "Yes," the other would
+answer, and the business would be entered upon immediately.
+
+The Spanish blood, however, calls for some such dialogue as the
+following, which is taken from real life.
+
+_A._--"Good day."
+
+_B._--"Good day."
+
+_A._--"How are you, Señor?"
+
+_B._--"Very well, thank you, Señor; how are you?"
+
+_A._--"Very well, thank you."
+
+_B._--"I am glad."
+
+_A._--"Equally."
+
+_B._--"Don't mention it."
+
+_A._--"I am speaking to Mr. Juan Sosa?"
+
+_B._--"At your service."
+
+_A._--"At yours."
+
+_B._--"Equally."
+
+_A._--"It gives me great pleasure to know you."
+
+_B._--"Equally."
+
+They are flowery always, whether in greeting, praise, commendation, or
+in denunciation.
+
+In illustration of the last point, I once heard a cartman give vent to a
+quite Olympic challenge.
+
+His cart had stuck in a deep rut up to the axles, and he commenced
+operations by addressing his bullocks with tender words and soft names
+swiftly followed by lurid curses. This proving useless, he invoked
+higher powers, and called on his pet saints by name--"Help me, San
+Pedro, San Geronimo, Santa Lucia, San Juan." Still no result:--
+
+Then his patience failed entirely--"If you won't help me, San Pedro," he
+shouted, "come down and I'll fight you;" "Come down, San Juan, and I'll
+take you both on together."
+
+Still no reply.
+
+Taking his hat off he placed it on the ground, made the motion of
+clawing his guardians from the skies and placing them in his hat.
+
+"Stay there, San Geronimo; Stay there, San Juan; Stay there, San Marco."
+
+When his hat was full enough for his satisfaction he leapt into the air,
+came down on it with both feet, and continued to dance on it for about
+three minutes.
+
+Thus, for a real or imagined slight, the streak of black blood will show
+up and convert a friend into a relentless enemy.
+
+It is not surprising when one considers the lack of civilising
+influences which ought to be exerted from the top downwards, but which
+have no root in the highest power they know, which is the arm of the
+law. It might be interesting to note a few proofs of the corruption
+which exists among those who wield the local weapons of justice--among
+the commissaries, police, and justices of the peace.
+
+The Chief of Police of----, for instance, a town of only about 7,000
+inhabitants, refused £2,000 a year for the local gambling rights.
+
+Again, a gardener, whom I knew, was put in jail for being drunk and
+disorderly. On going to the place some time later I found the man still
+imprisoned. "Why," I asked, "for such a small offence"? "We found," was
+the answer, "that when sober he was such a good workman that we could
+not spare him from the job of cleaning the stables."
+
+On the other hand, a friend of mine was dissatisfied with the policeman
+he had, and sent the sergeant into the township to exchange him for
+another. The man returned with a particularly villainous-looking
+specimen, and when asked where he had got him, explained that the Chief
+of Police had told him to look among the prisoners for a suitable man,
+give him a uniform and take him.
+
+"I thought this was the best of them; but they all wanted to come," he
+concluded ingenuously.
+
+Another commissary in the north of this country flattered himself on his
+revolver-shooting, and used to perform the feat of shooting the hat off
+a man's head without hurting him. He was in the local bar one day when a
+peon entered with a brand new white hat; it was an opportunity not to be
+missed. Crack--and the man fell with a bullet through his temple instead
+of his hat.
+
+Did the Comisário stand stricken with remorse, or burst into
+self-reproach? No. He moved the body with the toe of his boot and
+remarked: "Carramba, I am getting a very poor shot nowadays."
+
+A story which was told me in the province of Rio Negro, and which was
+well vouched for, contained serio-comic elements of which I believe the
+perpetrator, whom I knew personally, quite capable.
+
+An old man who owned a considerable quantity of land, died intestate. A
+man who lived with him, Garcia by name, had no idea of letting the
+property go to distant unknown relations, and concocted the following
+plot (obviously with the connivance of the neighbouring Justice of the
+Peace, who was a friend of his).
+
+The law allows that a sane man "in articulo mortis," and past the power
+of speech, may make statements by signs: so when the Justice was
+summoned to the house, Garcia told him that the man was not yet dead,
+and wished to make his will.
+
+Garcia seated himself at the foot of the bed, while the Justice at the
+side addressed questions to the deceased on the following lines:--
+
+"Do you wish me to record your last will and testament?"
+
+The corpse nodded.
+
+"Do you wish your property to pass into your cousins' hands?"
+
+The head moved from side to side.
+
+"Do you intend to make Garcia your sole legatee?"
+
+The deceased nodded several times.
+
+Two witnesses were brought, and the business was settled with
+commendable promptitude.
+
+I think it was Garcia himself who explained, some time afterwards, that
+as the dead man wore a full beard and whiskers, it was easy enough to
+hide the strings passing from his ears and chin to the foot of the bed
+under the coverings.
+
+In this connection I have since heard that one of the legal ceremonies
+in a coroner's inquest in Central America is to solemnly ask the
+deceased who killed him.
+
+To return to the point, however; if such things exist among those in the
+highest positions of trust it is not surprising to find wholesale
+chicanery among the lower orders; that they realise their shortcomings
+is evidenced by the fact that if they wish to impress you with the truth
+of a statement, they add "palabra de Ingles," i.e., "on the word of an
+Englishman."
+
+Their Indian descent is answerable for a great deal, the white and black
+blood being so mixed that it is almost impossible to note the dividing
+line. Their dusky ancestors were blessed with an extremely limited
+intelligence, only being able to count up to four. The following
+incidents were related to me by an old estanciero. He once saw a
+trainload of Indian prisoners who had had oranges given them throwing
+the skins against the windows and showing great surprise when they fell
+inside.
+
+In another instance a woman came with her daughter to place her in
+domestic service at the estancia, and as the mother did all the talking,
+the estanciero's wife asked if the daughter could speak Spanish.
+
+"Oh, yes," answered the mother, "but she is barefoot, and would not
+presume to talk Spanish unless she had shoes on."
+
+This same girl at first insisted on turning up the carpet whenever she
+entered a room and walking along the boards at the side.
+
+I fear that I have given a black character to the people I work among,
+but there are lights as well as shades, and I have had many a weary
+hour's ride wiled away by the philosophy and anecdotes of some peon or
+small contractor, without mentioning the enjoyment of that hospitality
+which is a characteristic of the nation.
+
+Beside a camp fire, under the stars, while the maté pot passes from hand
+to hand, or when huddled under a horse cloth with the rain dousing the
+last embers, I have found the Correntino, or Santa Fecino, a cheery and
+uncomplaining companion, who compares well with the recently arrived
+Englishman, who, under the same circumstances, is generally sleepy or
+bad tempered.
+
+Treat him well and he will treat you well, but if it is necessary to
+chasten him for his soul's good, keep your hand a little nearer to your
+revolver than his is to his knife.
+
+DUST AND OTHER STORMS.
+
+
+
+
+
+DUST AND OTHER STORMS.
+
+
+Life in South America has many and varied experiences, though not so
+uncomfortably exciting perhaps to-day as they were, when more than three
+years seldom passed without a revolution of some kind, either national
+or provincial. The year 1893 was marked by two revolutions in Rosario,
+the first provincial and the second national, with perhaps little more
+than two months between them. It sounds terribly alarming to hear that a
+revolution has broken out, and pictures of the French Revolution
+immediately rise before one, but, fortunately, those of South American
+cities are not of that calibre; reports and rumours fly about of the
+terrible things that are going to be done, but these generally end in
+rumour, and after a few persons, those who have nothing to do with the
+movement, have been killed, probably by soldiers letting off their
+rifles up some street just on the chance of hitting something (often
+that at which they are _not_ aiming), the revolution fizzles out very
+quickly.
+
+In the second revolution of 1893 great excitement was caused in Rosario
+by a revolutionary gunboat being pursued by a Government boat and a
+naval battle (!) being fought on the river outside Rosario. These two
+boats blazed away at each other till the revolutionary gunboat was
+reduced to a wreck; the Government boat then threatened to turn its guns
+on Rosario unless the revolutionists capitulated. The town was given
+twenty-four hours to decide, and, after various disasters, including a
+terrible battle, had been threatened, as usual the revolution came to a
+sudden end, on this particular occasion owing to the revolutionist
+leader, D. Alem, committing suicide. That same year, 1893,
+distinguished itself by drawing to a close with three of the most
+terrible dust storms ever seen in a country that, after any lengthened
+period of dry weather, suffers from dust storms of a greater or lesser
+degree. The first of these occurred early in December, after many months
+of drought, on a brilliantly sunny afternoon. Standing at the front door
+of a house at Fisherton, a suburb about six miles from Rosario, we
+noticed right down in the S.W., on the horizon, great banks of
+grey-looking clouds, which, to our surprise, seemed to be rolling
+rapidly up the sky towards us. They had a most alarming appearance, for
+these masses of grey cloud approaching so rapidly seemed to portend a
+storm of terrible force. In less than twenty minutes from the time we
+first saw the clouds the afternoon had changed from brilliant sunshine
+to pitchy darkness. So rapidly had the darkness come on us that no one
+was prepared, and no matches or lights were forthcoming; so there we
+stood in a room in absolute darkness, no glimmer of light even revealing
+where the windows were situated in the room. Though all doors and
+windows were closely shut, we could feel the dust entering in clouds
+through the cracks, making it quite unpleasant breathing. When the storm
+caught us we had to stand and wait, I must own with some fear as to how
+it was going to end. Up to this time the storm had come up and fallen on
+us in total silence: now, after about ten minutes of pitch darkness, we
+could hear in the far distance the wind coming. It came up with cyclonic
+force, and then everything in the way of tins and buckets began to be
+blown in every direction, and the horses to gallop about neighing,
+evidently very much frightened. The wind was the forerunner of the rain,
+which gradually began to clear the air, though, of course, for some time
+it rained mud, much to the detriment of the houses, and to anyone
+unfortunate enough to be caught out of doors in the storm; indeed, one
+of our friends, who insisted on starting for the station just as the
+storm descended on us, was found crouching under his umbrella by one of
+the posts of the railway fence, with a face as black as a sweep's, and,
+by then, deeply repentant that he had started for the station against
+advice. Indeed, many caught out in camp by the storm lost their lives
+through falling into wells, and, in some cases, the river. But,
+fortunately, nowadays--principally, I fancy, owing to the larger area of
+country under cultivation--these dust storms do not recur.
+
+
+
+
+LOCUSTS.
+
+
+During the past century considerable study has been centred upon the
+life and habits of the locust, mainly from the desire to seek its
+subjugation and destruction, and, whilst much general biological
+information has been written upon the subject, there are things which we
+do not yet know about this insect or its habits. We do not know what
+precise influences cause their migration, nor do we know what is the
+exact length of life of the locust or its breeding power, or the precise
+locality in any country which may be defined as its permanent abode.
+Locusts are classified under the order of orthopterous insects of the
+family Acrydiidae, and are very closely related to grasshoppers.
+
+There are a large number of species, the differentiating features being
+more or less the form and sculpture of protorax, the size of the head,
+the length and size of the prosternal spine, the comparative length and
+size of the hind thighs and shanks, the amount and arrangement of the
+tegmina mottlings, the comparative length of wings, and the general
+build of the entire insect, which may be robust or fairly slender.
+
+A general description of the distinctive physical features of migratory
+locusts might be given as a strong, wild-looking head, a strong collar
+inside which the neck moves, powerful and peculiarly-formed legs
+attached to a short, strong, square trunk or thorax, four wings, two
+antennae or feelers, six legs, and a long segmentary abdomen. The ground
+colour of the locust is generally brownish, straw, or red, but its
+colour varies somewhat according to the particular season of the year
+or some other peculiar circumstance, but nothing certain is known as to
+what influences the shade of colour. Mere ground colour is immaterial
+and does not signify a new species.
+
+Besides having a pair of compound eyes which form so noticeable a
+feature in its head, there are three other simple little eyes, placed
+like shining dots at three angles of a triangle below the two feelers.
+
+The mouth, which is a fearful apparatus, consists of nine distinct and
+well-marked organs; an interior or upper lip, consisting of a plate
+deeply cleft and capable of opening enormously; two true jaws or
+powerful mandibles; and two pairs of jointed organs called (maxillary)
+palpi, and two lower jaws. The mandibles and jaws move laterally from
+right to left.
+
+The thorax or trunk consists really of three rings. To the first is
+attached the two front legs; to the second, the two middle legs and the
+first pair of wings, and to the third, the two hind legs and the second
+pair of posterior wings. Along the posterior margin is a well marked
+serrated (spinous) arrangement by means of which the locust adheres and
+grips forcibly. The trunk appears to be full of a fatty sort of
+substance.
+
+The abdomen consists of a number of horny segments which are joined
+together by an elastic membrane, a construction which enables the insect
+to extend its body several centimetres beyond its normal extent. It can
+also be increased in thickness.
+
+The front and middle feet of this insect are short and weak, but the
+length, strength, and formation of the hind legs enable it to take
+extraordinary leaps. A full-grown locust can jump seven or eight feet in
+height, whilst it is said to be able to leap more than 200 times the
+length of its body.
+
+The female is normally larger by 1/4 or 1/2 inch in length than the
+male, and has a rather thicker body.
+
+The average length of the migratory locust is from 2-1/2 to 3 inches and
+about 3/8 inch in thickness in the abdomen. Locusts generally lay their
+eggs in the spring, and the manner in which the females, having selected
+a favourable site, make an excavation in the earth for depositing their
+eggs is intensely interesting and wonderful.
+
+At the very extremity of the abdomen the female has two pairs of horny
+valves or hooks, each pair placed back to back with their points
+directed outwards, and arranged so that all four hooks can be brought
+with their points close together. By this means a sharp pointed lever is
+formed which can be turned around, evolved, and forked. With this
+apparatus she drills a small hole and by means of a series of muscular
+efforts and the continuing opening and closing of the valves provided
+with the formation of the abdomen, she actually bores to a depth of 6 to
+7 centimetres, or about 3 inches. Here she deposits her eggs--normally
+about eighty--regularly arranged in a long cylindrical mass and
+envelopes them in a spumous or sort of glutinous secretion, so that the
+whole are quite tapped up and level with the surface of the ground. This
+substance when dried is more or less impassable and affords protection
+to the eggs from the elements and secures an easy outlet to the surface
+for the young locust when hatched. The eggs resemble in shape grains of
+small rice and are about 1/4 inch long.
+
+The eggs hatch in from twenty-five to sixty days, usually about forty
+days, but the period may vary a little according to temperature,
+humidity, etc. The young locusts are known as "hoppers," in which stage
+they pass some forty-five or fifty days before arriving at the fully
+developed stage known as "fliers." To reach the "flying" or "migratory"
+stage they pass through six different states, changing the colour of
+their skin several times, gradually approaching to full growth, and
+finally growing wings.
+
+They have no quiescent stage, and whilst they are naturally yet
+incapable of flight, their locomotive powers are very considerable, and
+they are very destructive, for their voracity is great. Comparatively
+speaking, the flying locusts do less damage to the growing crops than
+the hoppers, who devour everything clean before them.
+
+It is interesting to state that the "hoppers" in the first stage are in
+length about 7 to 9 mm., or not quite one-third of an inch, and that the
+feelers have thirteen divisions, extending to twenty-seven divisions at
+full growth.
+
+During the cold weather they usually gather together in thousands,
+clinging closely to all kinds of vegetation and to each other. In this
+season the general rule seems to be that comparatively little food is
+taken of any kind. For the purpose of watching the development of their
+eggs, several hundred locusts have been opened during the winter months
+by entomologists, and invariably their cases have been found empty.
+
+Perhaps the most feasible suggestion as to the cause of their migratory
+impulse is that locusts naturally breed in dry sandy districts in which
+food is scarce, and are thus impelled to wander in order to procure the
+necessaries of life.
+
+The rate of travel varies according to circumstances. With an
+unfavourable wind, or little wind, they seldom travel more than five
+miles an hour. At other times, when the wind is favourable, they will
+cover fifteen to twenty miles per hour. When on the wing it is certain
+that a distance of 1,000 miles may, in particular cases, be taken as a
+moderate estimate of flight, and whilst, probably, it is often much
+less, it is sometimes much more. Their height of flight has been
+variously estimated at from forty to two hundred feet. "A dropping from
+the clouds" is a common expression used by observers when describing the
+apparition of a swarm.
+
+It will not be denied that the presence of locusts in force constitutes
+a terrible plague. They make their appearance in swarms and eat up
+everything. It is wellnigh impossible to estimate the number in a cloud
+of locusts, but some idea may be formed from the fact that when they are
+driven, as sometimes is the case in a storm, into the sea and drowned,
+so many are washed ashore, that it is said by one observer that their
+dead bodies formed a bank of nearly 40 miles long and 300 yards wide,
+and many feet in depth, and the stench from the corruption of their
+bodies proceeded 150 miles inland.
+
+When a swarm of locusts temporarily settles in a district, all
+vegetation rapidly disappears, and then hunger urges them on another
+stage. Such is their voracity that cannibalism amongst them has been
+asserted as an outcome of the failure of other kinds of food.
+
+Locusts have their natural enemies. Many birds greedily devour them, in
+fact a migratory swarm is usually followed by myriads of birds,
+especially sea gulls; they are often found 150 to 200 miles inland.
+Often a flock of gulls will clean up a "manga" of locusts; they devour
+them by thousands, and will then go to a neighbouring laguna, take a
+little water, and throw up all they have eaten, and at a given signal go
+off again to fill up with more locusts, only to repeat the operation
+time after time. Predatory insects of other orders also attack them,
+especially when in the unwinged state. They have still more deadly foes
+in parasites, some of which attack the fully developed locust, but the
+greater number adopt the more insidious method of attacking the eggs.
+
+Many inventions have been brought out with the object of exterminating
+the locusts, some of which, at least, have doubtless been partly
+successful, but determined and combined effort by the nation and land
+proprietors is imperative if the remedial and preventive measures
+proposed are to reap the success hoped for.
+
+The Agricultural Defence Department reports having spent $10,561,540 mn.
+from 1st January, 1909, to 31st May, 1910, in fighting the locusts. The
+total area invaded was 135,000,000 hectares (about 337,500,000 acres).
+
+From 1892 to date, and with what is required for the present year,
+$54,000,000 have been spent in combating locusts and like plagues to
+agriculture.
+
+
+
+
+CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.
+
+
+The life of a conscript is more agreeable than most people in the
+Argentine Republic imagine it to be, although it has its disadvantages
+as well as its advantages.
+
+Every year all over the Republic a drawing takes place, calling to arms,
+for a year in the Army or two in the Navy, Argentines who have attained
+the age of twenty-one. At an average 12,000 to 15,000 are called out
+every year and distributed in the different regiments, according to
+height; from 1.75 metres upwards to Cavalry, middle height to Infantry,
+and short men to Artillery.
+
+For eight months the troops are drilled daily, and at the end of this
+period a big manoeuvre is held in which every regiment has to take part.
+This manoeuvre is divided into two parts: in the month of September all
+troops pertaining to the I., II., and IV. Regions are mobilised, and in
+November those of the III. and V.
+
+The daily routine is as follows: At 4 a.m. at the call of a bugle all
+troops have to rise, and the roll is called over; at 4.30 a.m. coffee is
+served; at 5.0 every morning orders are given to saddle-up horses and
+arm, and they have to be ready to leave the barracks at 5.30 for morning
+drill on horseback or to go to the shooting range, according to the
+time-table; the drilling continues till 10 o'clock, at which hour the
+troops are due back at the barracks, having to go through a course of
+drilling on foot up till 11 o'clock.
+
+At 11 o'clock the troops have to turn out and clean and brush down their
+horses until 11.30, at which hour lunch is served out; after which they
+are allowed to do as they like (except leave the barracks) till 1.30
+p.m.; from 1.30 to 3 p.m. the troops are drilled on foot, and at 3 p.m.
+"Maté-cocido" is served out; at 3.30 they have to attend class until
+4.30 p.m., either on "Campaign Service," "Military Duties or Laws," or
+on the "Carabine or Sword"; every other day class is given on the
+different parts of a horse, and on how to look after and clean same.
+From 4.30 to 5.30 p.m. there is revision and cleaning of arms. At 5.30
+dinner is served out, after which those who have leave are allowed out
+until 10 p.m., or in some cases until 4 a.m. next morning.
+
+Those drawn for the Navy have to go through a preliminary course of
+training on shore before being sent on board the training ship
+"Sarmiento," which every two years leaves Buenos Aires for a trip round
+the world, occupying, on an average, eighteen months.
+
+There are certain allowances made for students, who at the age of
+nineteen are allowed to enlist in the 8th Cavalry, where they have to
+serve for three months. At the end of this period they are put through a
+very severe examination, and should they pass, are promoted to the grade
+of Sub-Lieutenant of the Reserve, having to serve for a month every year
+in a regiment allotted to them.
+
+The advantages of conscription are many. It brings half-breeds from all
+parts of the Republic in touch with civilization, it teaches them
+obedience, respect for their superiors, and, above all, how to shoot.
+After their year's service they leave the barracks knowing a good deal
+more about things in general than when they entered them.
+
+There is also the better class of lads to be considered. Conscription
+teaches them a few things also, viz., to knuckle down (which is a great
+failing of the Anglo-Argentines), and be made to do things which they
+have not been accustomed to, clean out stable, etc., and look after
+their equipment properly, as anything they may happen to lose is
+deducted from their wages, which are very small, $5 per month.
+
+The food in the Army is good and plentiful: there is coffee in the
+morning on rising, a mid-day meal and dinner, which are usually similar,
+consisting of soup and "puchero" (a national dish made of beef and
+vegetables boiled), and an occasional dish of "pulenta" (boiled maize).
+
+The general treatment in the barracks is good. There are cases of
+miscarriage of justice and ill-treatment, but these are rare. A
+conscript may have to suffer punishment although in the right, and is
+not allowed to protest his innocence against an officer until after he
+has completed his punishment.
+
+
+
+
+ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901.
+
+
+Recollections of a journey from the Peruvian port of Mollendo to the
+Bolivian interior, which the writer made in the year stated, are here
+transcribed. No rhetorical merit is claimed, facts only are related, and
+the compiler of the manuscript only hopes that his efforts may, in part
+at least, justify a cursory perusal, without exhausting the patience of
+the readers, or overtaxing their indulgence. These notes are transcribed
+nearly ten years after the trip was made, and any readers who may have
+visited Bolivia at a more recent date are requested to make allowance
+for such modifications or change of conditions of which they can be the
+only judges.
+
+I have crossed the Andes Chain in other places farther south, in Chile;
+but on this occasion I will confine my observations to the trip as
+headed.
+
+Mollendo is one of the worst ports on the Pacific coast, but is of some
+importance on account of the fact that the railway through Peru to Lake
+Titicaca starts here. All vessels have to lie at least half a mile from
+the land on account of the constant heavy swell, and the landing is
+always attended by a certain amount of danger, so much so that not
+infrequently passengers have to be "slung" on to the landing stage in
+baskets made for the purpose. Like most of the South American coast from
+Valparaiso northwards there is little or no vegetation, and the scenery
+is not of the kind generally associated with tropical climes, of which
+one reads so much. Sand dunes and waste meet the eye on all sides, and
+the traveller for the interior is generally glad when the railway
+journey commences.
+
+Of the country through which the railway takes one there is not much to
+be said, but the attention of the traveller is at once called to the
+marvellous ingenuity of the famous engineer Meiggs, who built the
+railway. Gradually rising as the coast recedes, the train reaches
+Arequipa, at an elevation of 7,500 feet, and distant from Mollendo about
+200 miles. Arequipa has about 45,000 inhabitants, and, while rather
+prettily situated in a small valley surrounded by high volcanoes, it
+does not have anything of particular interest to attract one. Moreover,
+it suffers frequently from earthquakes, which does not surprise one when
+you look at the giant volcano "El Misti," towering up to 18,000 feet, at
+no great distance off. The houses are all built with "vaulted"
+foundations, the better to resist the "earth-tremblings," but on this
+occasion I did not experience any shocks.
+
+Leaving Arequipa behind, the ascent continues until the highest point is
+reached at Crucero Alto, where a notice board indicates that we are now
+14,666 feet above sea level. It is before reaching this altitude that
+the wonderful enterprise of the engineer shows up. The line goes on
+winding and climbing, twisting back again but always ascending, for
+hours, until a point is reached where passengers, looking down from the
+carriage windows, may see right below them, only a few feet down, the
+actual railway track over which they have passed an hour before. At one
+place there are actually _three tracks visible,_ one right below the
+other, just like steps and stairs, and I believe there is nothing quite
+like it in Argentina. Leaving Crucero Alto the descent is very gradual
+until Puno is reached, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, but still at an
+altitude of 12,000 feet or more. I did not actually see the town, which
+is a short distance from the station, but went straight on board the
+"Coya," the steamer which was to ferry us across to Chililaya or Puerto
+Perez, on the Bolivian side of the immense lake.[F] The distance in this
+direction is about 110 miles, and the passage was made in ten hours,
+during the night, so that I had not on this occasion an opportunity of
+seeing the surrounding scenery.
+
+On another occasion I saw too much of it, as the steamer missed the
+canalized strip which extends several miles out from Puno, and we
+remained hard aground for thirty hours. We had over a hundred Japanese
+passengers--immigrants going to the rubber country--and all armed with
+huge revolvers; but as the food lasted out until we were relieved by
+another small steamer belonging to the railway company they were kept in
+good humour, and they gave no trouble at all. Before floating again
+about 100 tons of cargo had to be transhipped to the other steamer, and
+when we again got into the deep channel it was again transferred to the
+s.s. "Coya." This latter boat was about 150 feet long; it was quite a
+comfortable boat, and the food and bedding were decent, when you
+consider the part of the world you were in. The bill of fare and wine
+list contained many quaint delicacies, and I shall never forget how the
+printer of same spelt the word indicating Scotch wine (commonly known as
+whisky). He was quite phonetic from the Spanish point of view, and the
+word read "Güiscki," but it tasted all right.
+
+Landing at the Bolivian side of Puerto Perez, the immense plateau which
+covers all the centre of Bolivia stretches out on all sides landwards,
+until it meets the inner and higher range of the Cordilleras.
+
+La Paz, the then capital of Bolivia, on account of the fact that the
+President, General Pando, lived there, was our next objective point,
+and we found the old "Diligence Coach," drawn by eight horses, awaiting
+to convey us the forty-two miles across the plain. This part of the
+journey is most uninteresting, and the road was only fair. All along it
+is the same level, stony ground, entirely devoid of trees, and covered
+completely with large, round stones. These latter the Indians have to
+gather in heaps, and thus make some open patches for growing their
+potatoes and grain, which, with their "Chalona," or sheep dried in the
+sun, are their principal foodstuffs throughout the year. Besides, the
+surplus produce is conveyed to the larger towns on llamas, and there
+realised to the best advantage. It is a very interesting sight every
+Sunday morning to see the "market," and the curio hunter would just be
+in his element, as not only do the Indians bring in vegetables and
+fruits, but all sorts of native silver in quaint shapes, and ornaments
+made by the Indians themselves can be picked up very cheaply. The
+dresses of the Indian squaws are also very picturesque, and, as far as I
+can remember, red, green, and bright yellow were the dominating colours.
+But I am getting away from the main subject.
+
+Right ahead of us there is the gigantic Illimani, silent and majestic,
+with its perpetually white crown rising 22,000 feet above sea-level. One
+begins to wonder where La Paz can be, as the plain seems to extend right
+to the foot of the mountain. Keeping steadily on, however, the coach
+eventually arrives at the brink of a hitherto unnoticed hollow, and the
+scene that here awaits the traveller is magnificent in the extreme. To
+describe the view baffles my limited vocabulary. There you are looking
+down on the roofs of the houses in La Paz, which lies snugly 1,200 feet
+below you. It just seems that you could drop a stone on to them, so
+precipitate are the cliffs; but it is the enormous drop that deceives
+the eye, because, of the route over which the coach passes, six miles
+have yet to be traversed before getting into the town. I have seen La
+Paz from the top of the "Cuesta" both by day and night, and the latter
+effect, while losing much of its grandeur and magnificence, on account
+of the darkness, almost surpasses in beauty that of the daylight vision.
+The whole city is lit up by electricity, and it just seems as if one
+were gazing _down_ on another firmament, if such a thing can be
+imagined. I repeat, that to fully appreciate this special scenery words
+fail me.
+
+Allow me to transgress once more. On the first occasion that I reached
+the top of the entrance to La Paz it was under rather "sporting"
+circumstances, which, I think, I may be excused for interpolating here.
+I had come on horseback and _alone_ from the mining town of Coro Coro,
+sixty-six miles off, and it is a very hard and tiring journey. The
+elevation above the sea varies from about 14,000 feet to 12,000 feet at
+the La Paz end, and therefore great speed is impossible on account of
+the rarity of the air. Apparently I had journeyed too fast for my horse,
+as the poor animal died when I was still eighteen miles from La Paz.
+Here was a nice "kettle of fish." It was all right enough as long as
+daylight lasted, but when darkness overtook me I was fairly "in the
+soup." Not knowing the road, and there being nothing to guide me and no
+one to consult, I simply walked along slowly, hoping to strike up
+against some Indian settlement, and pass the night somehow or other. I
+trudged along for goodness knows how long until I eventually did hear
+some sounds indicating that at any rate I was nearing some encampment or
+habitation. I could hear what was supposed to be music, and in the dark
+made my way, as near as I could judge, in the direction of the sound,
+and in about half an hour my efforts were rewarded, as I had overtaken a
+band of roving Indians, all in fancy dress, playing funny reed
+instruments and dancing continuously as they travelled. They could not
+speak Spanish, but at that time I knew sufficient of their
+language--"Aymara," as it is called--and soon explained to them my
+position. I was allowed to accompany them, as I found they also were
+bound for La Paz, and soon became a lifelong friend of theirs when I
+produced a small bottle of whisky which I had with me. The experience
+was of a unique nature for a white man, but I must confess I rather
+appreciated the novelty than otherwise, and when I reached La Paz about
+1 a.m. I felt that I had had quite an adventure, which might easily have
+had a more sinister termination, had my Indian escort shown the other
+side of their nature. Well, to come back to our old coach, which I think
+I left at the top of the La Paz entrance, I resumed my seat and got into
+the city at mid-day. I put up at an excellent hotel, of which there were
+several, and at once bethought me of looking for work, as the balance in
+my bank (otherwise my pocket) did not warrant my looking upon my visit
+to La Paz as one of pleasure only. At the time I write of there was one
+solitary Britisher resident in La Paz, and he was a Scotchman like
+myself. This was before the railway from Oruro was built, and he was
+proprietor of the coaches that ran, once a week, from La Paz to the
+south; and I understood had quite a remunerative business. La Paz is a
+peculiarly situated city, as the reader may imagine from my description
+of its position. The streets are mostly hilly and steep, with the
+exception of one or two which run parallel to each other on both sides
+of the valley, at the foot of, and in the centre of which flows, the La
+Paz river. This it bridged in about half a dozen places for horse
+traffic, and while, for most of the year, there is scarcely any water in
+the river, when the snow melts it is converted into a veritable roaring
+torrent; and I happened to be present during one of the most serious
+accidents that had ever occurred from this cause.
+
+It had rained very copiously for some days, and the river had risen
+enormously--in fact higher than ever before recorded--and many were the
+predictions as to how the bridges would stand the weight of water. The
+usual sightseers were about, and, unfortunately, a large number of them
+paid the penalty with their lives. They had been duly warned that a
+certain bridge was dangerous and threatened to give way, but this
+evidently excited their curiosity all the more; at any rate, a crowd
+tried to cross, with the result that the bridge tumbled into the raging
+stream, carrying with it over 200 people, and many of them were
+drowned--the exact number was never known.
+
+Quite an important city is La Paz, and a large number of wealthy
+mine-owners reside there, drawing their incomes from rich tin mines in
+the neighbourhood. There are also numerous stores from which the wants
+of the distant population that reside in the rubber country are
+supplied. The larger proportion of the inhabitants are Indians, and I
+cannot help remarking that the Bolivian Indians, men and women, are
+about the ugliest type of human creatures I have yet seen. Besides, they
+are very illiterate, and it is estimated that, of the total population
+of Bolivia, only about 30 per cent. can read or write. In the south,
+Aymara is chiefly spoken; but further north, Quechua is the commoner
+language. I saw several bull fights in the bullring of which the town
+boasts, but they were so very disgusting that I refrain from nauseating
+my readers with details.
+
+The Cathedral was only half completed when I was there, and I understand
+is still in the same condition. I was forgetting to mention that there
+was no British Minister or Consul in La Paz, and the story goes that, at
+some previous period, a Bolivian President compelled the British
+official representative to ride round the plaza seated on a donkey, but
+with his face to the tail; the consequence being that the Prime Minister
+of Great Britain figuratively wiped Bolivia off the map. Anything which
+we required from the Diplomatic Service had to be obtained through the
+medium of the British Minister resident in Lima, in Peru. This may now
+be altered, but I am not aware of the fact. I remained several months in
+La Paz in the employment of a Bolivian magnate, but the remuneration not
+being commensurate with my ambitions, I eventually arranged to accompany
+the proprietor of a very large rubber forest on a trip to his properties
+on the higher reaches of the River Amazon, and hence my privilege of
+being able to offer you a perusal of my experiences across the inner
+ranges of the Cordillera mountains. His daughter also accompanied him,
+and, although the journey is a most uncomfortable one in more ways than
+one, she stood the fatigue of many days' riding on mule-back, over
+trails which did not deserve the name of roads, just about as well as
+any of the rest of us.
+
+For a trip of this kind many provisions have to be made, as very little
+indeed can be procured on the journey in the way of good food or
+lodging. We accordingly had to carry our beds and bedding, and in fact
+everything we could think of in the form of clothes, food, firearms,
+and, of course, the necessary accompaniment in liquid form. Most of our
+baggage and what we might not require at a moment's notice we sent on
+ahead with a day's anticipation, and eventually on the 20th May, 1901,
+our caravan departed from the then capital of Bolivia, at 8 a.m. Our
+conveyance, to start with, consisted of a coach drawn by four mules, and
+it took much longer to climb the steep "Cuesta" than it had taken us to
+descend on previous occasions already mentioned. However, our animals
+were good and in about an hour and a-half we reached the top of the
+hill, and I took what proved to be my last view of La Paz City.
+
+The journey for the first forty miles is over the same ground as I have
+already referred to, in the direction of Lake Titicaca, and there is
+nothing more to be said about it, beyond that we changed animals at a
+place called Ocomisto, this being simply a few Indian huts where there
+is always a supply of grain and water for the animals, and the ordinary
+country fare for the passing traveller. There was a long journey ahead
+of us, so we only remained during the time that was occupied in
+outspanning the tired mules and inspanning the fresh lot. At 1 o'clock
+we reached Machacamarca, another "tambo" or resting-place, and were very
+disgusted to find that our pack animals, which we had dispatched the day
+before, had got no farther than this point. Our desired destination for
+the night was the Indian town of Achicachi, twelve leagues off, but as
+it was now quite out of the question to think of travelling our baggage
+animals so far before night should overtake us, we had to change our
+plans and therefore directed our coach towards Guarina, another Indian
+town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but much nearer than Achicachi, and
+we eventually arrived there at 5 p.m., having covered, more or less,
+fifty miles since morning. The journey seemed longer, as the country is
+so much alike all along the route; but as the roads were fair,
+travelling was quite comfortable.
+
+Guarina is purely an Indian fishing village, and the only white people
+are the Bolivian half-caste authorities. As I have already stated, there
+are no hotels or even lodging-houses in these Indian towns, and ordinary
+travellers have just to hunt about until they find a place suitable to
+put beds for the night. However, as my friend was a "personage" in
+Bolivia, in other words, a man of position and power in political
+circles, we of course fared considerably better than we should otherwise
+have done had he not been with us; and we were invited to put up in the
+house of one of these men in authority. He did his best for us in their
+frugal way of living, and gave us a meal consisting of "Chairo," which
+is soup as black as coal, and made from frozen potatoes which are called
+"chuno." These are about the size of walnuts, hard and black, and have
+to be well soaked before cooking, and then they are not a savoury bite.
+The next plate consisted of "Chalona," already described as lean sheep
+dried in the sun, and which, generally speaking, is very repugnant in
+appearance, smell, and taste. Never mind, we were hungry and partook of
+whatever was brought along, until the "inner man" cried content! The
+meal, I may add, was washed down with a cheap "wine" distilled from
+cheaper raisins, but it was something wet, and for the time sufficed.
+
+Our pack animals arrived at Guarina about 7 p.m., and we very soon had
+our things unpacked and occupied our beds, knowing that a pretty early
+start would be made in the morning. The night passed uneventfully, and
+at daybreak we got under way, bound for Achicachi, about five leagues
+off. There is still a road for vehicles to this town, and keeping along
+the shores of Lake Titicaca, we reached this larger Indian town about 9
+a.m. The population was about 5,000 Indians, but it is a very
+uninteresting, bleak spot, and we only remained long enough to have a
+square meal, which we were again fortunate enough to have provided for
+us by the reigning magistrate. That over, we then dispatched our coach
+on its return journey to La Paz, and thought of our other means of
+transport for the forward journey. Good mules we had sent ahead, and
+were now awaiting us saddled and ready, and we at last got started on
+this the more arduous part of our journey inland. Our destination for
+the night was Gualata, a small holding belonging to my fellow-traveller,
+and we reached it at about 1 o'clock, having climbed probably 2,000 feet
+higher up the mountains. Cultivation of cereals and potatoes is carried
+on on a limited scale, owing to the altitude, and taking it all round,
+the house, although comfortable enough, was situated in about as bleak
+and bare a spot as it is pretty well possible to imagine.
+
+Nevertheless, it was peopled by about sixty Indians, who turned out in
+true Indian style in their beautifully coloured robes and making
+horrible discordant noises which were intended for music--all, of
+course, to show their appreciation of their "patron." Here, of course,
+we got all we required, and as there were any amount of fowls to be had,
+our bill-of-fare improved in accordance. There was nothing to do
+specially, and we did not feel inclined to move about much at this
+elevation above the sea, so we were quite pleased when bed-time came
+round, and without any ceremony each retired to their respective couches
+_on the floor_. Owing to excessive cold, however, sleep was out of the
+question, and it was a relief when day dawned on May 22nd. After
+refreshing ourselves with a cup of tea we set out for Sorata, distant
+about six leagues. Travelling was now much slower as the roads were very
+bad, and in some places very steep and covered with loose stones. This
+made the foothold bad for the mules, but we trusted to the useful
+animals entirely, letting them go along on a loose rein to choose their
+own footing, which they did very successfully. We passed the Indian
+village of Illabaya, perched on the side of a hill, and all plotted out
+in small squares for the cultivation of vegetables, etc., of which we
+bought a supply for our own use. The highest point we passed was over
+14,000 feet, and then began the gradual descent into the pretty little
+town of Sorata, 6,000 feet lower down. The path was not of the best, and
+the pace was very slow; but the scenery was quite refreshing compared
+with what we had already passed through.
+
+Sorata is indeed very pretty and quaint, and although comparatively out
+of the world, a traveller can spend a short time there pleasantly, and
+personally speaking, the few days we remained were very enjoyable,
+thanks once more to my friend's influence. For a change we did not sleep
+on the floor, and by way of recreation I scented out a billiard table,
+not a good one, it is true, and the balls were rather elliptical; but as
+I had once personated the "Mikado," _à la Gilbert & Sullivan_, the
+conditions were not so disconcerting as they would doubtless have been
+to a less famous personage! Sorata, being the nearest town to the
+Bolivian rubber districts which export their products to the Pacific
+coast, is naturally of more consequence on that account, as all
+materials and merchandise for the interior must pass through the hands
+of the Sorata merchants, while the rubber exported to the coast also
+finds its way through the medium of Sorata agents.
+
+There is the usual plaza in the centre of the town, where the youth and
+beauty disport themselves in the way peculiar to these mountainous
+regions, which consists of walking round and round at a good pace to
+keep up the circulation, as the weather is nearly always cold in Sorata.
+Illampu, the competitor of Illimani and Aconcagua, and which claims to
+be the highest peak in South America, rises up magnificently right above
+and round the town, and visitors for the first time must really wonder
+how they are to find a road to cross these gigantic mountains, as the
+town appears to be so completely shut in.
+
+However, on 27th May we started to ascend the track forming the way to
+the interior, and got a fine send-off by the inhabitants, the more
+important of whom turned out to bid us adieu and wish us luck over a
+case or two of beer. The climb before us was a constant one for 18
+miles, and to-day we were to pass the highest point of our entire trip.
+This we reached about midday, at just under 16,000 feet. We were above
+the perpetual snow-line for a short time, and it was piercingly cold,
+besides we had to go slowly on account of the thin air, but we kept
+steadily on and reached an old mining establishment called "El Injenio"
+at 5 p.m., having done 24 miles in all since morning. There is a long,
+steep descent to the old mining camp by a narrow winding track cut out
+of the mountain side, and as the drop on one side to the little stream
+down below was about 40 to 50 feet, and there was no protecting fence of
+any kind, we decided to get off our mules, and accordingly completed the
+worst part of the way on foot, and of course this made travelling very
+much slower.
+
+Apparently, gold-washing had not been carried on for a very long time,
+as although the main building still has a roof, the whole place has a
+very deserted look about it; but, nevertheless, it still affords a
+covering for weary travellers like ourselves, and we soon began to
+select the most comfortable looking corners for our beds. There was an
+old Indian there who earns a meagre existence by selling forage to
+passing travellers for their beasts of burden; and he was also utilised
+by us for getting a fire ready and boiling water for a welcome cup of
+warm tea.
+
+One thousand feet above our heads, as it seemed, we could see Llane,
+another of these quaint, Indian hamlets, but the appearance of the
+exceedingly precipitate track up to it did not excite us in any desire
+to make the ascent. After partaking of some food, we got under our
+blankets in the usual way at sunset to once more sleep the sleep of the
+contented traveller. By 6.15 next morning we were again in the saddle
+and under way--the road was now even narrower than before, about two
+feet wide only--winding round and round the mountain side, ascending all
+the time, and in some parts far too steep for comfortable riding. From
+now onwards the journey was over tracks, not roads, and many of the
+ascents and descents were so steep that it was quite out of the question
+to attempt to negotiate them on muleback. We, accordingly, with
+philosophic patience had just to accept the inevitable, and get off and
+lead our animals over these now really dangerous parts. Some of the
+precipices down to the river bed were now much deeper, and had we slid
+over, we might have experienced considerable inconvenience at the
+bottom, and a greater difficulty in getting up again. The roads became
+worse and worse, and really they could be given no other name than
+"goat-tracks," but the mule is a wonderful beast, and let him have his
+head (on no account attempt to guide him), there is not much fear of any
+serious trouble. Our sleeping place for the night was to be at an old
+ruin of a house at a bare, but more level, opening in the mountains,
+called Tolapampa, and before reaching this we had to negotiate much the
+worst pass on the whole route. This is called the "tornillo" (screw),
+and it is a real corkscrew path, cut out of the mountain side at an
+angle of about 50 deg., and about 450 feet of a climb.
+
+Riding was of course impossible, and we scrambled more than walked until
+we safely got over the top, very tired and puffed out. The mules with
+their cargo followed our example, and it was wonderful to see how they
+kept their feet; as one false step might have sent them to the bottom,
+carrying everything behind them too, and on more than one occasion this
+has happened, the animals falling, generally being killed outright in
+the fall. Pushing on as fast as possible, it was not till 4 o'clock p.m.
+that our residence for the night loomed in view, and it did not inspire
+one that it could supply much in the way of home comforts. Sure, the old
+hovel had walls and a roof, but beyond that there were no windows, and
+where the door ought to have been there was only a hole in the wall, but
+nothing to close it with to keep out the intense cold.
+
+We, of course, knew when we started that we would have to rough it, so
+there was no use grumbling now, and therefore set about at once to get
+something to make a fire with. With great good fortune we, after a great
+deal of searching and gathering, obtained some old rubbish that burned.
+I say with good luck, because this is a treeless region yet, at an
+elevation of 10,000 feet, and fuel is naturally always at a premium. For
+cooking it did not matter so much, as we had a spirit lamp, but it was
+to warm our bodies and keep up our spirits that made the fire so
+desirable. Darkness was on us before we finished our evening meal, and
+we looked forward to the night with no very pleasant forebodings--and it
+did turn out a tiresome night--it rained all the time and the cold was
+extreme--so much so, that we eventually sat up most of the time, hoping
+by daylight to move on to a more charitable atmosphere.
+
+I think I should not miss this opportunity of relating an experience of
+mine when I journeyed over the same route on another occasion. Then I
+was only accompanied by two Indians--no white people--and was travelling
+towards Sorata. I remember very well we reached Tolapampa, already
+described, in the afternoon, it having rained constantly all day. I was
+suffering from malaria very acutely, and the high levels at which we had
+been travelling also affected me grievously. I arrived at Tolapampa
+soaked to the skin, shivering cold, and really more dead than alive. To
+aggravate matters we could not light a fire--everything was wet--and I
+can assure you it was anything but a bright outlook for us. Another gang
+of about ten Indians also turned up, and we did look a sorry lot.
+However, these natives, seeing that I was so weak (I had had malaria
+almost constantly during the previous six months), did all they could to
+get me to "buck up," and kept moving me backwards and forwards to warm
+myself, which operation I well remember was a very tedious one. They
+also tried to get me to eat of their cold frugal fare; but that was
+beyond me; and after they decided it was time to rest for the night, I
+scrambled in _amongst them_--Indians all round me--so as to benefit from
+the heat of their bodies. It was neither a very pleasant nor a very
+clean position that I occupied, and I can hardly realise how I had the
+courage to do what I did; but the facts remain the same, and at any rate
+I got some rest.
+
+It poured all night, and when at daybreak I suggested to my men that it
+was time to start, they positively refused to move until the rain
+ceased. I brought all my persuasive powers to bear, but it was of no
+avail, and as I had decided to go on alone, all I got out of them was a
+promise they would follow me at 10 o'clock. It was very disappointing,
+but I was determined to get forward at all cost. I therefore started on
+my lonely journey at eight o'clock, with the rain, and at times sleet,
+coming down in bucketfuls; I could hardly see in front of me at times,
+and it was destined to be a trip of which I shall always retain very
+vivid recollections. On this occasion, owing to the excessive rains, all
+the little mountain streams, which under normal circumstances are of no
+inconvenience to travellers, had been converted into veritable roaring
+torrents, causing me on more than one occasion to think twice before
+attempting a crossing. To condense matters as much as possible, let me
+remark that it rained all day; travelling was not only difficult but
+positively dangerous, and I, being so ill, could hardly keep my seat on
+my mule. All this made travelling so slow that I was still a long way
+from "El Injenio," my objective point for the night, when darkness
+overtook me. I had the narrow, dangerous paths to go along which I have
+already described, and I therefore did not trust to getting over them on
+muleback, but took the safer and, in my opinion, more sensible plan of
+leading my animal. This was tedious work, but it was to become worse
+very soon. I arrived at one of those swollen mountain streams, the
+appearance of which in the darkness fairly frightened me. My mule would
+not look at it, and for a while I did not know exactly what to do. I
+could judge that it was four or five feet deep, and rushing past at a
+great rate. Neither mule nor I could ever have hoped to keep our feet if
+we had attempted crossing, as it was about thirty feet wide. I left my
+mule and commenced to reconnoitre along the side, when I came to what
+had been a bridge, but which was partly washed away, leaving a gap of
+about four feet in the middle, as far as I could judge in the uncertain
+light, and over which it was impossible for a mule to go. Leaving my
+mule, I made a good jump, and, fortunately, got over all right, but,
+after all, I did not know in the least where I was, and, before
+attempting to return to my animal, I started to go forward in the hope
+of at least striking some sheltered spot where I might pass the night.
+Meantime, however, I heard a crash, and, as it turned out, away had gone
+the remainder of the bridge, leaving me on one side, and now completely
+isolated from my mule and saddle-bags. There was no use fretting, so I
+continued moving on--it was now dark--feeling my way, and keeping very
+carefully away from the river. I had not proceeded very far before my
+progress was all too suddenly arrested. I did not until the next morning
+know what actually did take place, but the facts are as follows: In
+groping my way along I had actually been walking on the very edge of a
+sort of precipice, and apparently had simply stepped over the side. At
+any rate, I rolled to the bottom, which, luckily for me, was only about
+fifteen feet; but it was quite a bump, and I wondered where I had
+actually landed. As it was so black, and I did not know anything of my
+surroundings, I simply made up my mind to remain where I had fallen
+until morning. I ought to tell you that, although I had plenty of
+matches, they were all wet with the rain, so that they would not light,
+and I had to remain in darkness all night. My saddle-bags were with the
+mule, and I did not even know now where the animal might be. I was
+soaking wet, shivering with ague, nothing to eat, plenty of cigarettes
+and matches, but unable to smoke or even make a light, so my
+disagreeable plight can to some extent be imagined. Moreover, there were
+about six inches of water all round me, so that I could not attempt to
+sleep. The cold was intense, and I can safely say that I never spent
+such a long, disagreeable, and dreary night in all my previous
+experience, and I hope never to be compelled to do so again. There are
+bears in this district also, but I am thankful to say that I was not
+molested in any way.
+
+Towards morning the rain slackened, and when daylight came I never felt
+more thankful in my life. I climbed out of my nest, and there, only
+about a hundred yards away, was my faithful mule standing exactly as I
+had left him. I waited until the water in the stream had gone down
+sufficiently, and crossing on foot, with the water about two feet deep,
+I mounted my mule, and then recrossed on muleback. I knew from the
+number of hours I had travelled on the previous day I could not be far
+from Injenio, and I was right, as in less than an hour I saw my
+destination right ahead of me. I was in a pitiful condition, and could
+hardly stand up. The old Indian recognised me and got me dry wraps after
+a fashion, and I got under his dry blankets. I could not eat, but I
+drank a large quantity of "Aguardiente," which at least put some life
+into me. In the meantime I did not know what had become of my pack
+animals and Indians, but I was not in a state to worry about them, and
+didn't. Instead, I kept my bed for about thirty hours, until I was
+revived somewhat. Then, luckily, my men turned up, and I was able to
+continue my journey to Sorata.
+
+Well, we left Tolapampa about 6 a.m., and for the best part of the day
+the route was over country very similar to that passed on the previous
+day; but we were descending rapidly now, and the temperature became
+perceptibly much warmer, in fact, by the afternoon we had indications
+that soon we should arrive in the "montes," where we would have
+vegetation in abundance, and consequently we would at least have some
+shade during the heat of the day. The road, nevertheless, continued to
+be very rough and broken, and we had frequently to dismount and lead our
+animals for long distances at a time. The long pass of Margurani was
+unusually tiring, as it was down hill most of the time, and over loose
+rocks and stones, which were very hard on our poor feet. Pararani, a
+small stopping-place, was reached about 2 p.m., and as both we and the
+animals had just about had enough of it, we decided to remain for the
+night.
+
+We were now right in tropical surroundings, and the beautiful palms and
+ferns, not to mention the magnificent butterflies of all colours, were a
+grateful contrast to the scenery we had been accustomed to since we left
+Sorata. We were now only about two thousand feet above sea level, and
+the weather was very hot indeed, mosquitoes and other worrying insects
+were very plentiful; but, bad as they can be, they seemed trivial
+troubles compared with what we had come through. At this "puesto" we
+were better treated, as we obtained vegetables, bananas, and oranges,
+and with our tinned stuffs made quite a decent repast. The place was
+owned by a Spaniard, and he, along with his wife, cultivates a little
+piece of ground, and supplied passing travellers with general rations
+for both man and beast. The place was clean in comparison with what we
+had been accustomed to, and we seemed to sigh a mutual sigh of content
+at our good luck in reaching this "oasis." We rested all afternoon, and
+got to bed early, and, although there were rats about, I slept "like a
+log," I was so fearfully tired.
+
+In the morning, however, I awoke refreshed, and with our usual
+punctuality got away at 6 o'clock, feeling that at last we were nearing
+our journey's end, as we now directed our animals' heads towards
+Copacabana, the nearest of the rubber forests belonging to my friend.
+This was only three or four leagues off, and the going was somewhat
+improved also, so our progress was a good deal faster than usual. During
+the greater part of the present journey, the weather, so far, had been
+fairly good, that is, taking into consideration the high regions through
+which we had come, but we were not fated to be so successful on this our
+last day. In fact, we had not gone far, when a really characteristic
+tropical shower baptized us properly, and continued during the whole of
+the rest of the day, the result being, as may be imagined, that we
+arrived at "Copacabana" like the proverbial "drookit mice." As the path
+was beneath the trees all the way, we got the full benefit of the rain
+dripping from the branches overhanging, which was just like a shower
+bath all the time. However, I got into dry clothes, and, I think, felt
+when I got into the Estancia house, that after all the "roughing," the
+trip was, in part, compensated for by the new experiences I had gone
+through, making my way over these very mountainous regions at such a
+very high elevation.
+
+However, I remained for over a year in the rubber districts, and had an
+opportunity of seeing how the work is carried on and of judging of the
+enormous profit which must result to the lucky owners. Unfortunately,
+the climate is of the very worst, and the malaria being of a very
+malignant nature, is very hard on white people. I had my full share of
+this "terciana," as it is called, and sometimes wonder how I really
+managed to work my way to the outside world again.
+
+In conclusion, let me express a modest hope that the perusal of my
+humble effort to put personal adventures on paper may at least convey to
+the reader some idea of what has to be experienced if one chooses to be
+a wanderer like myself in remote places, and that he or she may to a
+certain extent enjoy the result nominally, without going through the
+hard work involved in the actual performance.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[F] Allow me to remind the reader that Lake Titicaca is the highest
+water in the world which is navigated by steam.
+
+[Illustration: _Loading Wheat at the Port of Buenos Aires._]
+
+
+
+
+PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES.
+
+
+The first Custom House built for the port of Buenos Aires was in 1603.
+The only work carried out in the harbour up to the end of the eighteenth
+century was the construction of thirty-five metres of brick quay-wall at
+the site of the "Arsenal" on the Riachuelo. We find that although
+between the years 1852 and 1858 many plans were presented for building
+of piers, these were only carried into practice and built by the
+Government under the technical direction of Engineer E. Taylor; a new
+Custom House replacing the fortress, a timber pier for loading and
+unloading goods, and another pier for passenger traffic at the locality
+of the old mole. In the year 1878 the Riachuelo was first opened for
+traffic for sea-going ships, and in 1879, 197 vessels with 55,091
+tonnage had entered the Riachuelo. As early as 1862 Ed. Madero turned
+his attention to the question of docks for the port of Buenos Aires, and
+in 1865 applied for permission to construct them at his own cost, but
+the application was rejected. Four years later he presented another
+application, which suffered the same fate. In 1869 the total exports
+from Buenos Aires were 397,722 tons, the bulk of which were loaded at
+the Riachuelo, and steamers over 100 metres long frequented the harbour
+about the time of 1870. It was not until 1882 that Ed. Madero succeeded
+in obtaining the concession of building the docks for the port of Buenos
+Aires. The docks were to be constructed on the river side of the city,
+between the gasworks on the north and the Riachuelo River on the south.
+
+The trade of the City of Buenos Aires up to the time of the opening of
+the South Basin had nearly all been carried on between the shore and the
+steamers by lighters and small steam tenders. The usual anchorage for
+the ocean steamers was in the "bar anchorage," a distance of about
+fourteen miles from the city. The cargoes were transhipped into
+lighters, which brought them as near to the shore as possible, and from
+this point they were taken to the Custom House in specially-constructed
+carts with very large wheels. Passengers were transhipped in the bar
+anchorage into small tenders, and were brought to a point about 500
+metres from the end of the passenger mole. From these tenders, when
+there was sufficient water, they were taken ashore in small boats,
+while, if the water was too low to go alongside the mole, they also had
+to be brought ashore in carts. In many cases, however, passengers were
+brought on in tenders and landed at the Riachuelo wharves, which were
+then under construction. The first steamers that arrived in the River
+Plate were those of the Royal Mail Company, followed by the French
+Messageries Maritimes, and shortly afterwards by the Lamport & Holt
+Line.
+
+Up to the year 1870 these lines, and a few more that were started,
+progressed very slowly, although the rates of freight were then very
+high; but after that trade increased gradually, and not only a fair
+number of sailing-vessels arrived yearly, but the regular lines of
+steamers increased their number of sailings. The great drawback was the
+deficient state of the port, where steamers had to lie at a distance of
+fourteen to sixteen miles, and most of the sailing-vessels at ten to
+twelve miles from the shore. There was no channel dredged, and even the
+Riachuelo was so scantily supplied with water that lighters drawing
+seven to eight feet were sometimes for weeks prevented from getting out
+to deliver their cargo to the sea-going vessels in the outer roads. The
+discharge was exclusively effected into lighters, which, apart from the
+heavy expense incurred by the receiver of the goods, presented the great
+objection that a considerable portion of the cargo was often broached
+and pilfered before it reached the shore, claims for which had to be
+paid by the ship. Another point was that many of these lighters were old
+sailing-vessels or steamers, and, in the unseaworthy and leaky state
+they were in, often arrived with their cargo considerably damaged. On
+the completion of the South Basin on 28th January, 1889, passengers were
+able to embark or disembark with a little more comfort, and cargoes were
+landed on the quays. Docks 1 and 2 have each a water area of 23 acres,
+being 570 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,420
+metres. No. 3 Dock has a water area of 27 acres, is 690 metres long by
+160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,660 metres. No. 4 Dock has a
+water area of 25 acres, is 630 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a
+quay length of 1,535 metres.
+
+All these four docks, when they were originally finished, had a depth of
+23 feet 9 inches below low water, so that, however low the river may be,
+there should never be less than 23 feet 9 inches in the docks. Since
+then dredging has been going on and the docks have been deepened to
+receive larger vessels. The docks are united by passages 20 metres in
+width, each passage being crossed by a swing bridge. Dock No. 4 is
+entered at its northern end by the north lock. This lock opens into the
+North Basin, which has a water area of 41 acres and a quay length of
+1,409 metres and a depth of 21 feet 3 inches. The total area of the
+basins and the four docks is 174 acres, and the total length of quays
+8,482 lineal metres. The following are the dates the various basins and
+docks were opened to traffic:--
+
+    South Basin   ...   ...   ...   28th January, 1889
+    South Lock, Dock No. 1    ...   31st January, 1890
+    Dock No. 2    ...   ...   ...   26th September, 1890
+    Dock No. 3    ...   ...   ...   31st March, 1892
+    Dock No. 4, North Lock, North
+      Basin, and Graving Docks ...  7th March, 1897
+    First half of North Channel...  15th June, 1897
+    Second half of North Channel,
+      buoys and beacons  ...   ...  31st March, 1898
+
+The timber sea-wall was built to a level of 16 feet above low water, and
+the stone sea-wall to 19 feet. Originally there were built three sheds
+in the South Basin, three sheds and two warehouses in Dock No. 1, two
+warehouses and two sheds in Dock No. 2, five warehouses in Dock No. 3,
+and four warehouses in Dock No. 4, the total capacity of these sheds and
+warehouses being 525,510 cubic metres, and the floor area 192,800 square
+metres. Since then, several warehouses have been built, and some burnt
+down. The total cost of the harbour works as contracted for by Ed.
+Madero was $35,000,000 gold, or, say, about £7,000,000. This includes
+the South Basin, Dock No. 1, Dock No. 2, Dock No. 3, Dock No. 4, North
+Basin, North Channel, Graving Docks, machinery, etc.
+
+The following statement shows the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires in 1880, 1890, 1900, and 1909, and clearly shows
+the advance made in the last 30 years.
+
+These figures include steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well
+as foreign trade.
+
+    1880   ...   ...   ...      644,750 tons
+    1890   ...   ...   ...    4,507,096 tons
+    1900   ...   ...   ...    8,047,010 tons
+    1909   ...   ...   ...   16,993,973 tons
+
+In 1909 we find that 2,008 steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the
+port of Buenos Aires from foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542,
+and 1,978 steamers and 129 sailing-vessels left the port for foreign
+shores with a tonnage of 5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead
+with 2,242 steamers and 37 sailing-vessels, or, say, 53-1/2 per cent, of
+the total.
+
+
+
+
+JUST MY LUCK!
+
+
+I really have had rather bad luck. As you know, I was wrecked on my way
+out from the Old Country. The good ship "Southern Cross" met her fate on
+a rock in Vigo Bay, and my luggage met its fate at the same time. This
+was something of a blow, but I expected to be treated a little more
+kindly by fate when once my destination was reached; I would be a
+stranger in a new country, and fate is proverbially kind to tyros of
+every sort.
+
+R.M.S.P. "Danube," which carried the shipwrecked passengers of the
+"Southern Cross" from Vigo to Buenos Aires, arrived at the Argentine
+capital towards the end of January. At the conclusion of my journey, one
+of my fellow-passengers, to whom I was saying good-bye, gave me this
+sound piece of advice: "Take care of yourself, and the country will take
+care of you." I don't suppose I can have taken care of myself, for
+within two months I was down with typhoid fever. This is how fate treats
+strangers in a new country.
+
+You know that I had the good fortune, shortly after my arrival, to find
+employment with the Santa Fé Land Company, and immediately on my falling
+ill, the Manager of the estancia sent me to bed, and reduced me to a
+milk diet. Two days later he himself took me down to the Buenos Aires
+British Hospital, and it is to this fact, and to the sensible treatment
+which I received in camp, that I in great measure owe my quick recovery.
+The journey to Buenos Aires was made as comfortable as possible. Even
+so, however, I must have been slightly delirious, for I remember
+thinking that everybody in the train was wearing a pink shirt without
+either coat or waistcoat. This must surely have been a delusion.
+
+I reached the hospital on a Sunday morning, and was promptly carried
+upstairs to a private ward. Though my temperature was now as much as 104
+deg., and my faculties were naturally not at their quickest, I could not
+help noticing the cheery look of the ward. There were flowers on the
+tables, the patients were obviously well cared for, everything was
+scrupulously clean, and the British nurses looked both efficient and
+attractive. The scrupulous cleanliness, together with the latest and
+most approved methods of treatment, were indeed a feature of the
+hospital in all its aspects.
+
+It was a short time afterwards that one of the doctors, after carefully
+diagnosing my case, ordered me to the medical ward, where there would be
+greater facilities for giving me a course of baths. In the medical ward
+my treatment was as kind and as careful as formerly, but my new
+surroundings had for the moment a rather depressing effect. I was just
+able to realise that the cases around me were more serious than in the
+private ward, and that both doctors and nurses were more grave and
+intent on their work. I was soon, however, to become delirious again,
+and for the next few days was more or less oblivious to my environment.
+After a short time I became more alive to what was happening around me.
+We typhoid patients had four cold baths daily, and those patients who in
+their normal existence were unaccustomed to one warm bath a week were
+somewhat inclined to rebel. This was amusing. My sense of humour was
+reviving. The company here was certainly more mixed than in the private
+ward--consisting as it did of every class and of every nationality, from
+Montenegrin to Turk, but it was not on that account any the less
+entertaining. Two or three berths away a brawny Scot of monster
+dimensions, who was convalescent after an acute attack of rheumatism,
+would every night before getting into bed say, with a certain naïvete,
+and without any sense of proportion, that he was going to his "little
+nest." And yet people accuse Scotsmen of a lack of imagination. On
+either side of me lay a typhoid patient--each delirious. The one on my
+right hand imagined he was at home drinking beer in Plymouth, and the
+one on my left, an Italian workman, would persistently call for his
+boots. It seemed he wished to return to his work and did not think any
+other article of dress necessary. The weather at the time was certainly
+hot, and this may have suggested such a daring flaunting of the
+conventions. It is curious that among typhoid patients this illusion of
+doing some action without sufficient clothing is rather prevalent. I
+myself at one time imagined that I had been discharged from the hospital
+with only the top of my pyjamas and a travelling rug. As I would carry
+the travelling rug on my arm, it scarcely compensated for the lack of
+other apparel. Through all these vagaries on the part of the patients
+the nurses remained kind and careful as ever. This was especially
+conspicuous in one case, where a patient insisted that his nurse was a
+Chinese pirate, and behaved accordingly, but she gave her charge the
+same excellent attention as before. At this time I began to be troubled
+with the pangs of a great hunger. After subsisting for five weeks on
+milk alone, my food diet began with small doses of cornflour and with
+large doses of castor oil, but at last there came a chicken. I shall
+never forget that first chicken, nor the nurse who brought it to me. How
+I tore those bones--of the chicken, not the nurse--apart, and how I
+attacked them in my fingers so that I should not leave any of the good
+meat. Eventually my bed in the medical ward was required for a more
+serious case than myself, and I was sufficiently well to be returned to
+the private ward for a few days of convalescence. The patients here were
+certainly more companionable than in the medical ward, and they suffered
+from less grave complaints. They were for the most part victims of
+accidents, and were all nearly well enough to leave the hospital. In the
+evenings we generally had some sort of amusement among ourselves. The
+_pièce de resistance_ was more often than not a wrestling match between
+the man with the amputated foot and the man who had undergone an
+operation for sciatica. As both performers were in ordinary
+circumstances compelled to use crutches, their efforts were distinctly
+humorous.
+
+It was after two months of medical treatment that I was able to leave
+the British Hospital, and it was only when on the point of leaving that
+I realised what we Britishers owe to this institution.
+
+The building itself is constructed on the most approved designs, it is
+fitted with every modern appliance, both medical and surgical; the
+treatment is excellent, the percentage of cures remarkable--not a single
+case has been lost in the medical ward during the current year; the
+doctors are not only experienced, but efficient; and finally, the
+nurses--but perhaps I have already dwelt with sufficient emphasis on
+their virtues.
+
+All the same, thank Heaven I return to camp in a week, and may fate deal
+more kindly with me in the future.
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+PATRON SAINT: GEORGE WASHINGTON.
+
+
+
+
+No. 1.
+
+_Saturday, March 26th, 1910._
+
+
+When we consider the already overstocked journalistic world, and
+remember the innumerable papers and magazines which greet one at every
+street corner and nestle in every armchair, we feel that an apology is
+due to our readers (if any) for our temerity in swelling the overflow of
+periodicals, but let us assure you our reasons for putting another paper
+on the market are purely altruistic. It is no idea of mere gain, or even
+a desire for notoriety that urges us to issue "The Tacuru"; we have
+undertaken this responsibility because we know that the world would be
+the loser did we refuse to give to the public the highly scientific
+impressions formed by an extraordinarily intelligent party of pilgrims
+during a unique journey into the wild uncultivated northern lands of the
+Argentine, especially as some of the most intellectual (the superlative
+adverb is well chosen) members of the band have promised to give their
+scientific views on the lands through which we shall pass daily. Though
+this expedition is only advertised to last a fortnight, yet we have no
+intention of closing our paper at the end of that time, for we are
+certain that once the public have been educated to appreciate the
+high-class literature and useful information which it will be the aim of
+"The Tacuru" to supply, we shall have created a demand and interest
+which not even Halley's comet can rival, and we shall endeavour to
+satisfy that demand daily. Our only fear was that lest the world should
+be kept waiting for the publication of our paper, for though everything
+was in readiness yesterday for an early start to-day, the elements
+seemed inclined to delay us, and when rain had fallen steadily nearly
+all day, The Instigator of the trip was seen to clench his jaw yesterday
+afternoon, as he remarked "We cannot start till Monday." This fiat
+caused dire consternation; the idea of waiting for two days when all
+those carts were packed ready for our immediate outset, filled the party
+with annoyance, and had it not been for the fact that The Instigator is
+a man not to be trifled with, it is possible remonstrances might have
+been raised. But, fortunately, each member of the party only possessed
+the angelic variety of temper, so no expostulations were made, and peace
+was maintained. This unequalled patience under trials was rewarded, and
+great was the joy of the party when at 8 p.m. it was found that the rain
+had ceased, and the moon shone forth in such a way as to influence The
+Instigator to rescind his decision and declare an early start for
+to-day.
+
+Rumour has it that The Jehu and his aide-de-camp and Our Hostess sat up
+till 12.30 a.m., finally arranging "places in the carriages, food
+supplies, blankets required," and all the innumerable details which made
+for the party's comfort.
+
+Before we publish the impressions, contributed by one member of the
+band, on to-day's trip, we think our readers might appreciate a slight
+character sketch of each of our "Staff." There are nine Pilgrims.
+
+FIRST: _The Instigator_. Well, he's right when you know him, but you do
+want to know him first. What possessed him to suggest that we should
+trek away north, goodness only knows, unless he was fired by a desire to
+imitate the Cook-Peary journeys, or it may have been the celebrated
+"Cristobal Cocktails" which inspired him to do great deeds.
+
+We hear that coming out from England he earned a reputation on board
+ship as an auctioneer, and once even sold a live lord for a few
+shillings to the highest lady bidder. As a camp man he is a marvel,
+never seen on horseback, but generally discovered on his hands and knees
+fudging about with a thing he calls a pocket microscope, and
+occasionally going off into hysterics over some clod of earth, a leaf,
+or some weird microbes which he says are feeding on the alfalfa roots.
+Talking of feeding, The Instigator can eat anything, his motto is "_tout
+jour_"; he has the digestion of an ostrich, and says "it is just as well
+to make a good meal while you are about it, for you never know when and
+where you will get the next." His best friends cannot say he is musical
+(save when others are trying to sleep); but he has a favourite song, and
+it is that old music-hall classic entitled "Do, do, be always on the
+do." However, he is a very good fellow, and notwithstanding that square
+jaw of his, which seems to hint at the possibility of "a man of wrath"
+existing in that silent thoughtful being, he is kindness itself to all,
+and never fails to do his share of work as it comes along.
+
+SECOND: _Our Guest_. The Wild Man discovered this _rara avis_ in a
+railway carriage, babbling for "Kwilmez Beer," so he was brought along,
+and he had not been long at the Estancia before he was running first
+favourite in the Popularity Stakes. He was always ready for anything,
+and it must have been his desire to acquire knowledge which induced him
+to come with the party. The Saint has undertaken to explain to him how
+colonists thrive on the 8 per cent. system, and to teach him how many
+grains of maize make "ocho." We doubt whether she will succeed in the
+latter attempt, for we fancy Our Guest will never leave eight grains of
+maize uneaten; he is a wonder for that delicacy, and feeds on it
+constantly, and we hear rumours that he intends to take some maize cobs
+home with him to his native country, and proposes to feed his "team" on
+it.
+
+THIRD: _The Delineator._ This is a misnomer, he really should be called
+"The Photographer," but that sounds so common, and his views are so
+uncommon that we called him The Delineator instead; besides, he always
+travels about with maps and charts (his own, or someone else's) and when
+appealed to as to what course we should take, replies in a cold, hard
+voice, "North by North, just as she goes." Like the rest of the party,
+he has never travelled quite the road we are going now, but the prospect
+of collecting a few new varieties of butterflies, moths, insects, and
+plants caused his eyes to light up with a wild gleam when he heard of
+the trip, and the yarns he spins of things unseen by the ordinary sober
+mortal are ever a joy to the listener, and make them whisper, _se non è
+vero è ben trovato._
+
+FOURTH: _The Jehu._ There is but one name for a man who handles his
+four-in-hand over tree-trunks, tacurus, and tussocks, as our coacher
+does. He drives as not even his namesake drove; in rain, in sunshine, in
+light, in darkness, over smooth ground or rough, he guides his steeds
+with consummate skill and care, which is wonderful to see. After a more
+than usually big bump he turns to his passengers with a cheery "All
+aboard?"; then gives his attention once more to the animals of which he
+is so fond, and in which he takes such pride. His knowledge of the
+horses he drives is marvellous. The Jehu is a man of great perception
+and information, and has a pleasant knack of being able to convey his
+knowledge to others. He and The Instigator have great arguments together
+which interest all listeners by day, but the discussions are not
+followed with quite so much delight by those who are privileged to hear
+them at night, when they often degenerate into a snoring competition.
+
+FIFTH: _The Wild Man_--had been driven south by stress of weather and
+strikes. We should like to say something nice about him, for he always
+carries revolvers, knives, and cameras, but we fear that our kindest
+remarks may be misunderstood by one so unused to a quiet civilisation
+with no revolutions, so we refrain from all personal comments. This
+product of a land of luxuriant vegetation has a quaint penchant for
+collecting matchboxes (filled), old boots, deer horns, and any odd
+things lying about the camp belonging to himself or other people; still
+he is always cheerful and content, never grumbles, and can give valuable
+information respecting the ways of the natives who look upon him as a
+man and a brother.
+
+SIXTH: _The Chaperon_--has his uses. It will be his business to see that
+we are housed, clothed, and fed. The horses and peons will also be under
+his care, and if anyone wants to grumble about anything The Chaperon is
+the person to abuse. Tent-erecting is what he considers himself to be
+very good at; but rumour has it that his best accomplishment is
+hairdressing (ladies or gentlemen, English or foreign styles). His
+resources know no bounds; he has been seen to fasten up a pair of
+leggings with bits of stick. His powers of annexation, both mentally and
+materially, are indeed marvellous. He prefers to make his bed on the
+bricks or the cold, hard ground, and then enlarges on the comfort
+thereof; he generally takes his food standing up, and is always on the
+spot ready for any emergency when required.
+
+SEVENTH: _The Saint_--is a lady who will give away anything in her
+possession, save chicken or eggs. Just now she is making donations of
+pipes, tobacco, handkerchiefs (her own or The Instigator's), and good
+advice on matrimony. She is a person of importance, and is very keen on
+collecting knowledge which she is always ready to impart to others;
+unfortunately, some of her efforts to improve humanity have not been
+absolutely successful, but she is never discouraged, and takes up the
+next case on the list with equal enthusiasm. Most of us have to thank
+her for some good thing or other. She will do her best to keep every
+member of the party up to the mark, physically and mentally. Her
+accomplishments are numerous.
+
+EIGHTH: _My Lady_--is a general favourite; she will look after the lot
+of us in her own gracious fashion. Everyone goes to her for advice,
+sympathy, or help, which she is always ready to give. Even without her
+tea-basket she would be an absolute necessity for the social success of
+the trip, for, as the advertisements say of patent sweepers and the
+Encyclopaedia Britannica, "no party is complete without" her, so every
+one was glad to hear that she had agreed to accompany the northern
+pioneers. Those favoured ones who have seen her "on the boards," whisper
+that her histrionic genius is marvellous; we, who are not among the
+fortunate number, can only say that if her acting equals her talent for
+giving (when required) a really concise, lucid description of anything,
+it must indeed be wonderful. Her quotations, too, are so ready and apt,
+though occasionally they remind us, by their vagueness, of her namesake
+and favourite book.
+
+NINTH: _The Kid_. Why she is brought along, nobody will ever know. It
+may have been as a "contrapeso" ("an addition of meat or fish of
+inferior quality, thrown in to complete the weight," _vide_ Arturo
+Cuyas' Dictionary), but we think she came with the sheep. Anyhow, it was
+not until the first part of the journey had been accomplished that she
+was discovered bleating in the corner of one of the coaches. We had a
+meeting to decide whether she should come on with us or not, and
+arranged to put her on the job of tidying up for the trip; but her
+hopeless incompetence and ready impertinence to her superior officers,
+necessitated instant dismissal without a character. However, as she is
+really not worth the trouble of sending back, we locked up the tea tin,
+and let her continue the journey on the condition that she will not talk
+too much, awake or asleep. With any luck, we may yet lose her somewhere
+in the wilds.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The one disappointment expressed by all the party was that Our Hostess
+decided not to accompany us on the trip, but to await our return at
+Cristobal.
+
+We started out from the estancia house as soon as the ladies' luggage
+could be brought downstairs, and we should like to remark, in passing,
+that it was a very affecting sight to see Our Guest, The Delineator, and
+The Wild Man lifting and carrying heavy boxes and baggage (with no
+thought of gain) out to the peons, who, under the able direction of The
+Chaperon, loaded them scientifically on to one of the four carts, which,
+when ready, were sent on ahead with the nine peons who had been told off
+for the trip. Cameras appeared from every available corner as we
+prepared to move, and many invaluable photos of the start of the caravan
+must have been secured by those who gave us such a hearty send-off. When
+at last Our Hostess had put in the final cushion and rug, and provided
+us with biscuits and bull's-eyes, and was satisfied that even she could
+do nothing more for our comfort, we parted from her with great regret,
+promising that she should receive numerous marconigrams concerning our
+welfare, and our travels en route. First went off the four-in-hand
+driven by The Jehu, who had four members of the party in his care; he
+was followed by The Chaperon, who drove a pair, and looked after the
+rest of the explorers.
+
+There is an old saying, "Give a dog a bad name and you may as well hang
+him." The truth of this saying has never been better exemplified than
+in the case of the Chaco, which long held the reputation of being good
+for nothing. Rumour had it that the northern land was useless; life was
+impossible there for the white man; indeed, it was supposed that cattle
+even could not live there on account of the mosquitoes and garrapata;
+and Indians were said to be as thick as flies, and equally disturbing.
+
+The Santa Fé Land Company has been one of the pioneers who steadily
+fought down these reports, and by showing what good cattle could be bred
+there, and what crops grown, has gradually opened up the possibilities
+of the northern lands to colonists and investors. Slowly but surely
+workers came north, first in fear and dread, but later with confidence,
+and now the cry is "They come, and still they come." Before we had gone
+far on our journey we had an opportunity of conversing with one lately
+arrived colonist. A wonderful crop of maize attracted our notice, and we
+stopped to speak to the great, jolly, strong-framed Italian who had
+grown it. He has moved up from the south with his wife and family, and
+his fellow-workmen. They started ploughing, and though it was late in
+the season, he was persuaded to try a catch-crop of maize, with the
+result that he has to-day banked $5,000, when he never expected to
+secure a chance harvest. And so sure is he that the land will repay all
+labour and time expended upon it that he is anxious to take up a league
+and colonize it with his fellow-countrymen.
+
+It is the same story all through the northern lands; anyone with pluck,
+adaptability and grit can do what this man has done: indeed hard work
+and perseverance will as amply reward the labourer in the northern lands
+as they have done in the south. The sight of this great crop of valuable
+maize, on land which a few months before was a mere waste, brings the
+words of the Psalmist forcibly to one's thoughts, for surely of no
+country could it more truly be said than of the Argentine, "Dwell in
+the land, and be doing good, and, verily, thou shalt be fed"; and
+perhaps there are few countries in which there are less openings for the
+man whose mind is not set towards "doing good": the Argentine has little
+room for the shirker.
+
+[Illustration: _Horses awaiting Inspection._]
+
+The rain of yesterday relieved us from the trials of dust on our
+journey, but it also made the going very heavy, and instead of
+travelling for the usual two hours before relieving horses, we were
+obliged to make an early stop for a change. This is always an
+interesting sight, for the animals are so well trained. Our total number
+is 87, and when a halt is called, these animals are all lined up in a
+row, generally against a wire fence. At the word of command they range
+themselves, backed close against the fence in a long line with their
+heads outwards. Packed tightly together they await the inspection of
+their master, who chooses the animals he requires, and as they are
+standing thus they allow themselves to be haltered up and led quietly
+away from the line to be harnessed. Their training is wonderful, but it
+is really amusing to watch the expression of the horses as they stand in
+a row while the selection takes place, they seem to be saying "Please,
+sir, not I this time." Where no wire fence is available, the peons
+stretch a rope or lasso out, and the horses will line up against that in
+the same manner. During our first change of horses, unexpected
+excitement occurred. The Saint perceived a plaid horse--at least this is
+what she called it, and we believed it to be German for piebald
+horse--from which a peon had dismounted. This horse must have reminded
+her of the circus-riders of her childhood (or possibly her action was
+owing to temporary aberration); anyhow, without a word of warning, she
+leapt astride the native saddle and gave a short display of how it
+should be done. However, fortunately from her point of view, though
+disappointingly from that of the spectators, the piebald animal had not
+been trained to circus tricks, and only quietly ambled along for a few
+yards, during which time the cameras came into full play. After The
+Saint had been persuaded to dismount, and the horses were harnessed up,
+an onward move was made, and it was not long before we met our host for
+the day. He had ridden to the furthest outposts of his section to join
+us, and under his guidance we were conducted to two or three spots,
+where The Instigator inspected rodeos of animals in his charge.
+
+We arrived at the Section house of Polvareda about midday, and found
+that our host had prepared an alarmingly sumptuous repast for his influx
+of visitors: as course followed course, roast ducks dodged the turkey,
+and were pursued by plum pudding, etc., we began to wonder if our host
+thought that meal would have to last us for the fortnight of our trip.
+But we discovered that he came from the West of England, and had not
+forgotten the ideas of hospitality current in that part of the world.
+Rumour had it that he himself had been seen carrying about pails of
+scalded milk at 4 a.m. This proceeding explains the delicious Devonshire
+cream and butter we are enjoying.
+
+The afternoon was spent in driving or riding round the section to
+inspect various windmills, more groups of cattle, wells, fencing, and
+new alfalfa, etc. Our host, as we were driving round, took the
+opportunity for giving us a short, successful exhibition of buck-jumping
+with his steed, whether willingly or not, neither he nor history
+mentions. At eventide, another excellent repast was provided, and The
+Saint was so impressed by the catering and culinary skill of our host,
+that she decided to inaugurate a prize to be won by the bachelor
+estanciero who shall provide the best meals for the hungry nomads during
+the trip; certainly our host for to-day has put the standard very high
+for the other competitors. A short telephonic communication was held
+during dinner with Our Hostess at Cristobal, and "All's well" was
+reported on both sides.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _Stacking Alfalfa._]
+
+[Illustration: _Alfalfa Elevator at Work._]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 2.
+
+_Sunday, March 27th, 1910._
+
+
+The party did not sit up late last night; they had a short talk on the
+verandah for the sake of digestion, and then all retired to bed, but
+alas! not to rest. Foolishly they had imagined that mosquitoes were
+things of the past, and no nets were put up, with the result that one
+and all soon learnt that for fresh blood and newcomers there was a
+plethora of these little demons waiting with their irritating song,
+sting, and bite: from some of the party we learn complaints of other
+songs, more human, and more nasal, and it is believed that it was Our
+Guest who was heard at midnight to be murmuring the chorus of a
+favourite song, viz., "Hush, boys! No noise! Silence ebryting! Listen,
+and you'll hear de little angels sing." At least it says "angels" in the
+song, but the word Our Guest used sounded like "demons," but probably he
+was dreaming of the "ping" of bullets and the roar of battle as the
+snores resounded through the room, or, one might almost say, through the
+house. Very early this morning there were cries for The Chaperon: he was
+wanted to tell the time; he was wanted to bring water for ablutions; he
+was wanted to tell us when breakfast would be ready; he was wanted to
+give advice or remedies for mosquito bites, and, in general, for a short
+space of time, he justified his existence. When at last the members of
+the party had collected themselves from all sorts of odd corners,
+coffee (with the addition of bacon and eggs, and several other things)
+was served, and the interval, before the order "All aboard" was issued,
+was chiefly occupied in observing and discussing the effects of our
+first night's experience of bichos. Our Guest, after due deliberation,
+laid down some useful rules for future guidance, the chief being, "Never
+be without a Mosquitero": his face and head were literally enlarged on
+this point, and he assured us that a mosquito's proboscis is an
+impressive point. Apparently The Kid, too, would have liked to give her
+views on mosquitoes and their ways, but her uninteresting remarks were
+cut short by The Wild Man's order of "kennel up," and, given a bottle of
+cana, she seemed quite happy. Our Guest seemed to have an impression,
+also, that someone had blundered. He knew someone had slumbered (some
+had not), and plaintively he begged that he might be allowed in future
+to sleep at one estancia further ahead of the rest of the party.
+
+Most of the nomads had had some slapping acquaintance with mosquitoes
+during the night, and the showing of bites, swellings, lumps, etc., only
+ended when The Jehu ordered the bugle to be sounded for an onward move.
+We were well under way before half the lamentations had been entered in
+the station complaint book.
+
+Bidding adieu to Polvareda, where the green fields of alfalfa show the
+march of progress, we pushed forward, but as we left we were unable to
+decide whether it was a desire to escape observation (and, perhaps, the
+too-effusive thanks of the lady members of the party), or a violent
+toothache, which caused our host to conceal himself in a huge blanket
+wrapped around his head as we left, but we fear it was toothache that
+necessitated the extra wrappings.
+
+[Illustration: _The Green Fields of Alfalfa_.]
+
+We had not gone far on our journey before we crossed the bridge over Las
+Conchas. The manager of the next section met us soon afterwards, and we
+inspected the cattle on his domains. On our way from Polvareda to
+Michelot we passed the emporium of the Universal Provider of the North,
+in other words, "the stores," where most of the necessities and many of
+the luxuries of life can be obtained. The Saint can never resist the
+desire of a bargain, and others of the party were anxious to see all
+that the stores contained, so we made a halt and inundated the building,
+where everything was extraordinarily neat and clean, shelves piled high
+with bales of bright-coloured cottons, cloths, and handkerchiefs; hats
+hanging in long lines, brilliant saddle-cloths, pipes, knives, tobacco,
+axes, leather goods and harness, every variety of tinned foods, barrels
+of flour, sugar, etc., all arranged with precision, and showing
+cleanliness and method at every turn. Some men were sitting on the
+benches, smoking and drinking and chatting together, for apparently "the
+stores" constitutes the local rendezvous and news agency for miles
+around.
+
+The Saint at once made purchases, for no place is stamped on her memory
+unless she has spent money there. She wanted to make the whole party
+presents of hats, handkerchiefs, or pipes, but she was restrained, and
+ultimately satisfied her generosity by choosing the best saddle-cloth
+the establishment could supply, and one or two hats. We went into the
+living-rooms of the storekeeper, and found the same attractive neatness
+there. A gramophone occupied a side table, and skins and pictures were
+hanging on the walls. The storekeeper's wife and her sister were
+attractive Englishwomen; there were two or three children running about,
+but none of them could speak anything but their father's native
+language. After this inspection we drove on, and we are glad to be able
+to register the fact that Our Guest for once acted up to the first part
+of the old adage, "Earn sixpence a day and live up to it." The Jehu's
+coach had stayed behind for a while, to allow The Instigator to observe
+and note a great many things which were no business of his at all, and
+the peons had likewise remained, but The Saint, having fulfilled her
+mission of purchasing whenever possible, was content, and anxious to get
+on to the Section house for a rest before her afternoon ride, so The
+Chaperon drove on with his coach, and we are assured, on what we
+consider good authority, that when Our Guest perceived a closed gate in
+the way, and no peon at hand, he leapt from the carriage (perhaps "flew"
+would be a better word) and opened that gate. Possibly he had been fired
+with ambition to earn money while inspecting those crimson and blue
+handkerchiefs at the stores, for we know he appreciates "colours"; but,
+whatever his motive, he _did_ open that gate, and let it be recorded to
+the honour of his fellow-passengers that his action was not allowed to
+pass unappreciated or unrewarded. When all the party were collected at
+Michelot estancia house, lunch was served on the verandah by a
+dour-looking Oriental, who apparently combined the duties of cook and
+parlourmaid in his own somewhat yellow person, and very well he
+performed his task, but as he went silently about his business of
+serving this large party, which he did with a slow precision and
+apparent utter disregard of his master's orders, he reminded us
+irresistibly of the soi-disant American definition of "Life," and we
+began to wonder whether it were not a Chinaman who summed up existence
+in the words, "After all, Life is only one d----d thing after another."
+
+[Illustration: _Herd of Cattle._]
+
+A short siesta followed lunch, and after an early tea everyone mounted
+horses or carriages and went forth to see the sights of the
+Section--everyone, that is to say, save The Chaperon, who had other work
+to do; he it was who discovered and averted what might have been a
+disaster. Some members of the party were quite content as long as they
+were given three cups of tea, others fancied cocktails, and some babbled
+for cocoa. It was suddenly found that the supply of this last useful
+article was running short. The Kid not being a cocoa-drinker, casually
+suggested filling up the tin with tannin extract or dust; she said "it
+looked the same and nobody need smell it," but The Chaperon declined to
+resort to subterfuges and rode off to the stores to supply a deficiency
+caused by his own lack of attention.
+
+At Michelot, as at Polvareda, great progress has been made of late
+years, alfalfa laid down, fences and wells made, and the cattle are
+improving yearly. Our last sight, before the inspection for the day was
+finished, was a wonderful rodeo of 3,000 cattle, which we viewed from
+the vantage point of the banks of a newly made reservoir. It was a
+striking picture, which will not easily be erased from the memory of
+those who saw it. The cattle, with their long continuous lowing, were
+rounded up below us, and away on the horizon the sun was setting with
+the glory one never sees better elsewhere than over a plain, leaving, as
+it rapidly sank from sight, marvellous shades of gold and crimson on the
+fantastically shaped clouds. Save for the animals and their drivers just
+around us, the whole vast space seemed so still and empty, yet on every
+hand were traces of man's labour and skill, conquering a tract of land
+which was almost valueless a few short years back.
+
+On our return to the house we found dinner for us on the verandah. This
+was a delightfully cool method of taking food, but rather apt to attract
+beasties, and although the philosophers and friends of the party
+arranged the lights to keep away insects as much as possible, and
+succeeded in their efforts, some members of the party preferred to take
+no risks and dined with veils wrapped around their heads, only leaving
+their mouths available. The Wild Man caused some excitement before we
+sat down to dinner by introducing us to a beast he called a "railway
+insect." It certainly strongly resembled a railway train, with its green
+light on its head, red at the tail, and luminous yellow lights all over
+its caterpillar-like body; it was a most interesting discovery, and the
+Wild Man went up in everyone's estimation for a few minutes. The
+Oriental again served us with silent steadiness. It was suggested that
+one of our "boys" should assist him in the task of waiting on the party
+of twelve, but notwithstanding the fact that he had been told he might
+kick round any boy he chose to make an assistant, he waived aside all
+outside help with the words "no good," and continued on his way
+imperturbably.
+
+The Instigator, with The Delineator and The Jehu, had a long discussion
+after dinner on various Argentine subjects too deep for the ordinary
+mortal, though The Wild Man and The Chaperon seemed to be trying to take
+an intelligent interest in the conversation. Our Guest sat silent,
+looked sad, and on being offered a penny for his thoughts, he murmured
+that he was wondering whether he would be allowed any sleep to-night.
+Doubtless he felt wearied, because, as it is Sunday, The Chaperon had
+been allowed to take a half-day off for his own amusements, and Our
+Guest, perhaps stimulated by his financial success of the morning,
+offered to fulfil the duties of chaperon during his absence; but we
+regret to say that we cannot candidly advise Our Guest to take up
+chaperoning as a means of livelihood, for though willing and tactful, he
+lacks the long training and apprenticeship necessary for continual
+service in this arduous work.
+
+The ladies seemed happier, for they had noted the mosquito nets over
+each bed in their room, and they looked forward to a peaceful night. We
+had our usual communication with Our Hostess over the telephone before
+retiring, and received and gave satisfactory reports from both sides.
+
+A correspondent wishes to know if any of our readers can name the author
+of these lines:--
+
+"Heaven gives sleep to the bad, in order that the good may be
+undisturbed." He would also like to know if this generally accepted
+quotation is quite correct, or whether the "un" is a misprint. Replies
+to "O.G.," c/o THE TACURU.
+
+Owing to the innumerable applications which we have received for
+advertising space in our widely circulated periodical, we have decided
+to open our columns to advertisements at the rate of 50 cents per line,
+applications to be sent to "The Advertisement Editor," THE TACURU
+Offices, c/o The Jehu, First Coach. All orders must be prepaid.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+WANTED.--Bricklayers who can build straight.--Apply Manager, Michelot.
+
+RIDING TAUGHT by a lady, side-saddle or astride; fees go to
+Charity.--Apply "T.S.," c/o TACURU Offices.
+
+BOOT CLEANING undertaken in best style. Gents', per pair, $1; Ladies',
+per pair, for the asking.--Orders received by "T.C.," Offices of this
+Paper.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 3.
+
+_Monday, March 28th, 1910._
+
+Owing to the care with which the mosquito nets had been put up, there
+were few complaints of bites when the party assembled for breakfast, but
+the conversation chiefly degenerated into an argument on phonetics. The
+different rooms held various views on the harmonizing of sounds. Had it
+been a glee competition we should undoubtedly have given the award to
+the verandah party. Sleeping on the bricks seems to bring out the
+sweetness of a treble voice as nothing else can do. The Saint and My
+Lady both remarked that they were very fond of music, but they could not
+appreciate being awakened from their beauty sleeps, by the announcement
+in a raucous voice of "No, thank you." They do not wish for a moment to
+imply that The Kid was not perfectly justified in refusing whatever she
+did refuse, but they would like her in future to confine her
+conversations to the daytime if possible, and to leave their nights in
+peace. It was a happy thought on the part of The Jehu to suggest a
+picnic at the Waters Meet to-day, before our forward move on to Los
+Moyes, and after breakfast we started out. First we went to inspect the
+site where the new house is to be built, then on to the pretty little
+monte near by, where some picturesque photographs were taken of the
+cavalcade of riders. We paused in this tiny monte, for it is an
+intensely interesting spot from a botanical point of view, and with care
+and attention should be so for some years to come. In an extraordinary
+small compass this wood contains more varied specimens of trees than one
+would ordinarily see in a day's journey. So on to Waters Meet. Here one
+is afforded an opportunity for studying the watershed of this portion of
+Argentina. Three rivers meet here, the Concha, the Calchaqui, and the
+Northern Salado. The latter is the only perennial river in that region;
+it rises in the snowy peaks of the Andes, in the province of Salta,
+miles away, and it is not to be wondered at, that, though it is a
+slow-moving river and meanders through the Gran Chaco, in the times of
+floods its swollen waters overflow their banks and flood immense tracts
+of land. Thomas Page, an American Admiral, in the year 1855, navigated
+this river from its junction with the Parana to the spot where we were
+to-day, but when he went up it there was so little water in the river
+that he had to give up the idea of continuing his pioneer task of
+exploration. It had been his intention to open up the river for trade,
+and there is no reason why this should not be done at some future date.
+The Calchaqui goes under different names at various places. It rises on
+the great swamps on the North-East of the Santa Fé Land Company's
+territory, and flows through a chain of lakes and cañadas until it runs
+into the huge laguna "Del Palmar," and thence along what used to be the
+Eastern boundary of the Santa Fé Land Company's lands, until it joins
+the Salado.
+
+The Calchaqui must drain at least 150,000 acres of land, and the Rio
+Concha has a watershed of about 60 or 70 thousand acres. It is not known
+what the area of the watershed of the Salado is, but it must be immense;
+therefore it can be understood that the meeting-place of the waters of
+these three rivers is an interesting spot geographically, and we were
+all glad to have seen it. On our arrival at the Water Meet we had our
+first introduction to the native "asado," and we all hoped it would not
+be the last. The peons collected (apparently from nowhere), in less time
+than it takes to write about, sticks and odds and ends for a fire, over
+the ashes of which they broiled the meat, holding it over the heat on
+long skewers of wood. The meat was brought to us cooked, still on these
+skewers, and each one cut off, or had cut off for them by The Jehu, the
+portion he or she preferred, and a very hearty and merry meal was made
+by all. The resulting silence of repletion was only broken by a murmur
+from The Saint of "My heart is full," which sentiment, anatomically
+amended, was echoed by all.
+
+[Illustration: _Expanse of Alfalfa_.]
+
+When active exertion was once more possible everyone repaired to the
+banks of the Waters Meet, and a spot being found where there were no
+dead fish lying about, the ladies (under the tutorship of Our Guest and
+The Jehu) indulged in a little rifle-shooting at bottles. We fear that
+we cannot record any marvellous marksmanship on their part, for the
+bottles were still bobbing about on the water when the ladies' party
+retraced their steps to the "camp." A cup of tea was suggested before
+the returning drive, and it was thought possible (though not probable)
+that The Kid might be useful on this occasion. However any hopes in this
+direction were speedily dispelled when (after a great deal of noise and
+talk) she appeared with a thick black liquid, which proved absolutely
+undrinkable. True it was poured from a tea-pot, but anything less like
+"tea" as one usually meets it at 5 o'clock, could scarcely be imagined,
+and the air seemed full of the unspoken query, "Has everyone a use in
+this world?" The drive back to the estancia house was as pleasant as
+that of the morning, and there we found the Chinaman (who, owing to the
+strenuous exertions of The Chaperon, now appeared with considerably less
+hair, and obviously a more swollen head), had gauged correctly the
+incompetency of The Kid, in the brewing of his native beverage, and
+consequently had prepared a beverage which might pass for tea, and was
+enjoyed by all. After this refreshment a move was made, the luggage had
+gone on, and the party followed in their two coaches. We now began to
+approach a more pleasing country, and drove through little montes of
+scrub and trees, with a few bright-coloured verbena and cacti growing
+near the ground, making a brave show, and that larger optunia, the
+prickly pear, with its silver grey appearance and the bright crimson of
+its fruit showed up occasionally against the low trees. Altogether, the
+land had a more homelike and less expansive appearance, as it was broken
+up by these little groups of trees. It was a glorious drive. We were
+favoured with another exquisite sunset which shed weird and beautiful
+light over this strangely quiet and empty country. As the four-horse
+char-à-banc had started some minutes ahead of the more modest two-horse
+vehicle, it was to be supposed that it would reach the destination, Los
+Moyes, first, and we hear that there was some consternation expressed by
+the party of the smaller coach when, on their arrival they found that
+nothing had been heard, or seen, of the more ambitious vehicle. However,
+The Chaperon on being appealed to, impassively murmured "They're all
+right," and started to give orders for unloading, and putting up beds
+and generally arranging matters as if the section house belonged to him,
+and this callousness on his part, we are told, calmed the others
+sufficiently to allow of their enjoying the remnants of the sunset,
+undisturbed by any thoughts of the horrible fates which might (but were
+not likely to) have overtaken their companions.
+
+Certainly Los Moyes section house is most prettily situated, with an
+expanse of alfalfa beyond the little front garden, and trees in the
+distance opening to show a glimpse of the smallest lake. There are three
+of these lakes not far from the house, and fishing is carried on, by
+means of spearing, in their waters. Long after the last trace of sunset
+had faded from the sky, The Jehu appeared with his coach, and a rush was
+made by the hosts of Los Moyes, and their earlier arrivals, to ascertain
+the cause of this delay. All anxiety was quickly allayed by one glance
+at the face of The Instigator. He was exuberant with joy. The rest of
+the occupants of the coach seemed rather less excited, and more weary,
+as they explained that The Instigator had sighted in the far offing a
+steam plough, and despite murmurs of "the dinner waits and we are tired"
+from The Delineator and The Wild Man, he insisted on investigating that
+plough, in fact on trying it himself, and it was with difficulty he was
+persuaded to return to the coach, and continue the drive home. We
+believe the credit for this latter achievement is due to The Delineator,
+who, with tact worthy of a diplomat, suggested that if an early return
+to the ploughing were made next morning, photos could be obtained of the
+machine and its work. This bait was successful, and The Instigator was
+gently enticed away with promises of "to-morrow."
+
+[Illustration: _Disc-Plough at Work._]
+
+[Illustration: _Roadmaker and Railroad Builder_.]
+
+After everyone was assured that everyone else was safe, The Instigator
+came back from his Elysium, dreamily to finish the quotation of The
+Delineator and The Wild Man with "Said Gilpin, So am I," and we all sat
+down to dinner, during which meal much merriment was caused by a
+difference of opinion between The Saint and her host on "dogs and
+species of dogs." Our enemies, the mosquitoes, were not so virulent as
+usual to-night, perhaps owing to the eucalyptus trees which are growing
+near the house; anyhow the party could venture to sit out after dinner
+on the verandah, which was already covered with beds for the
+accommodation of some of the party. Thus, with an audience seated on
+chairs and beds, The Instigator talked of the plough and of its
+marvellous work in opening up hitherto unused tracts of land. Want of
+labour has retarded development considerably, and until quite recently
+the northern camps were very much handicapped by the lack of labourers,
+and of men with brains to guide the labour. Not only was there a
+deficiency of men, but often so many of the working bullocks were
+drafted off to the forests for timber haulage, that it left a sparseness
+of them for agricultural purposes. The remedy, however, presented itself
+by the utilisation of the traction engine. The breaking-up of fresh
+lands has always been the trouble facing the colonist.
+
+In dry weather it is almost impossible to get the plough, drawn by horse
+or bullock, into the ground, and the drought so punishes the working
+animals that often when rain comes they are too weak for their work, and
+the colonist is unable to take the best advantage of the season, but
+mechanical ploughing obviates all this, and gives him the virgin land in
+such a condition that with the means at hand he is able to cultivate an
+area sufficiently large to ensure him success.
+
+As we sat thus on the verandah in the moonlight, plans were made for the
+following day. It was decided that a visit to the plough should occupy
+the morning, and a row on the lake, or ride round it, the afternoon,
+before proceeding to Lucero. Fishing was spoken of, but we could not
+manage everything in the short time we had at our disposal at Los Moyes,
+so we found that probably the fishing would have to be given up. Thus,
+in the security of the possession of clear consciences and mosquito
+nets, the party retired to rest.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Prepaid advertisements received at the office of this paper before 6
+p.m. will be inserted in the next day's issue.
+
+"M.L." writes in answer to "O.G." that the quotation he gives is from
+the writing of the Persian poet Sâdi. The quotation is quite correct,
+for though Sâdi travelled for a great number of years in Europe, Asia,
+and Africa, he never travelled with the present Company in the
+Argentine, therefore he did not realise that the sleep of the bad could
+disturb the good. Modern thought is inclined to differ from his views.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+LOST.--Two rubber sponges and two blankets. When finished with, please
+return to the Manager, Michelot.
+
+£10 REWARD.--Lost, one pearl-drop ear-ring; may be under the carpet.
+Finder will be rewarded as above, on returning same to "T.S.," Offices
+of this Paper.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 4.
+
+_Tuesday, March 29th, 1910._
+
+This morning, alas! did not fulfil the promise of last night's sunset,
+for a drizzling rain was falling when the party collected for breakfast,
+and we were afraid that not only would the fishing expedition be
+impossible, but also that the ploughing inspection might have to be
+postponed, and all were anxious, after the enthusiasm of The Instigator,
+to see that engine at work. Our host had sent some men out in the early
+morning to secure fish for our delectation, but they were unable to
+spear more than one, and this large aquatic animal was now hanging up
+under the verandah, causing a great deal of interest to the various
+curious members of the band; needless to say, The Instigator was busy
+divesting the fish of scales, examining them under his ubiquitous
+microscope, and insisting on everyone observing the marvels of Nature
+shown in this manner. We think that this was the psychological moment
+when the rest of the party began to appreciate the powers of that
+microscope, and insinuations were made to the owner that it would be a
+pity to take such a beautiful pocket instrument back to Europe, in case
+any accident should happen to the boat during the voyage, and the
+microscope be lost.
+
+The Delineator and The Wild Man appeared to be the chief favourites for
+the prize, and knowing the acquisitive propensities of The Chaperon, all
+were surprised to note his passiveness during the competition; however,
+he explained his inertia by saying that his sleep had been disturbed by
+visions for which no microscope was needed. He offered to sketch what he
+had seen, but could give no more definite description in words than
+"figures on the blind" and "streaming hair," so he was left alone to
+recover his nerve. The Jehu then pointed out that his prophecy had
+proved correct, and the misty rain had blown off, leaving a clear sky
+and fine weather, so a start was made _en masse_ for the scene of the
+ploughing operations. A slight lameness on the part of one of the steeds
+made it necessary for the smaller coach to return for change of animals
+after a few hundred yards. The Wild Man occupied the few minutes of this
+delay to the best possible advantage. The owner of the house and
+chattels was away, and The Wild Man, stimulated by The Chaperon made a
+very productive tour of the rooms and verandah, resulting in great
+satisfaction to himself.
+
+When the coach was ready with fresh horses, and The Wild Man had
+satisfied himself that nothing of value had escaped his observation,
+another move forward was made, and on arriving at the ground the smaller
+party found that the occupants of the first coach were already on the
+plough, having ousted the colonists for the time being. This plough was
+working on rough virgin ground, turning over more land in one hour than
+two men and four horses can do in England in a whole day. Each member of
+the party took their turn on the plough, and enjoyed the pleasure
+derived from turning over the untouched soil, and of feeling that they
+were helping to start the development of Nature's truest source of
+wealth. The engine was drawing twenty disc-ploughs, and could plough
+twenty-eight to thirty acres of land a day, week in and week out.
+
+Until recent years land in the Argentine Republic has been ploughed in
+small areas by animal labour, the farmer or colonist often employing the
+members of his family to assist him, and thus saving expense. Owing,
+however, to the immense harvests and the vast tracts of country awaiting
+development, it has become necessary to work on a much bigger scale, and
+to bring in the aid of machinery. In some places the ordinary form of
+steam plough has presented many practical disadvantages. They are heavy
+and unwieldy, and apt to sink in soft ground, from which they are
+extricated with difficulty. This is likely to cause damage, or more
+serious accidents, through explosion. Further, they require a constant
+train of water-carts and fuel wagons, and a staff of at least six
+persons to work them. At the spot where this engine was working the
+latter objections were obviated, as both wood and water were plentiful.
+In general, these difficulties are largely overcome by the adoption of
+the naphtha motor engine, which has been brought to a state of
+considerable perfection in Great Britain and the United States. It can
+be employed not only for ploughing and threshing, but also for traction,
+excavation, and embankment work, etc. An engine and plough will break up
+one hectarea of camp per hour, and some of these machines with two
+relays of workmen will break 108 hectareas per week. In a month of only
+twenty-three working days they will break up a league of camp.
+
+[Illustration: _Ploughing Virgin Camp._]
+
+The price of naphtha is gradually decreasing in the Argentine Republic,
+and the oil wells of the country will probably make the cost of fuel
+even less by-and-by than it is to-day.
+
+Areas of fertile camp, which have hitherto lain fallow, owing to their
+being intersected by canadas, and difficult to get at, can now be
+treated by the motor plough, with the result that their value will
+rapidly rise. In an actual case near the Central Cordoba Railway, people
+are to-day offering $118 per hectarea for land which was bought two
+years ago for $25 per hectarea, but during the two years it has been
+thoroughly ploughed and drained by mechanical means.
+
+In nearly all the northern lands small trees grow irregularly all over
+the camp, and in order to plough the land these trees must be dug up.
+Machines are manufactured in the United States to deal with land
+containing tree roots. They perform the double operation of cutting
+roots under ground and ploughing up the surface, but they have not yet
+been introduced into the Argentine in large numbers. Other machines dig
+holes for fence posts at the rate of fifty holes per hour, and they can
+be so accurately gauged that the posts may be firmly fixed without
+expending much labour in ramming.
+
+The naphtha engine is likewise used with great advantage for traction
+purposes. A striking instance of this is to be found at Rio Gallegos,
+where many naphtha engines are engaged in the work of carrying wool over
+a track of more than 300 kilometres, a feat which would be quite
+impossible with animal labour, owing to the rocky and broken condition
+of the roads.
+
+As the Santa Fé Land Company owns a great diversity of land, they have
+used both the steam traction and the naphtha engines, and time will show
+which machine is to be recommended.
+
+It is a pity that the agricultural implement importers of Buenos Aires
+should have recently formed themselves into a ring to lift prices,
+because their doing so will certainly tend to lessen the progress which
+agriculture is making in the Argentine. These combinations, however,
+will not deter the Company from continuing its "march of progress," but
+it comes hard on the colonist, who, after all, is the chief factor in
+building up the fortunes of the great importing houses of Buenos Aires.
+
+One of the greatest competitors of the British-built traction engine is
+the Hart-Parr oil engine, a splendid agricultural tool, which is
+invaluable where ordinary fuel is not easily procurable.
+
+It was with great difficulty The Instigator could be persuaded to leave
+the plough, and at one time his enthusiasm (and the engine) carried him
+out of sight, and those remaining at the starting-point grew speculative
+as to whether he would return before dark. However, a recommencement of
+drizzling rain apparently cooled his ardour, and restored him to the
+party. The nomads gladly turned their thoughts and coaches towards the
+section house, realising as they went the sweet truth of the words, "The
+ploughman homeward plods his weary way." Lunch awaited them, and the
+fish of the morning appeared in a more pleasant guise, to be enjoyed by
+all. After lunch, the rain showing no signs of clearing off, the party
+had to give up all idea of the lake proper, but watched one form in
+front of the house instead, and wondered how it would be negotiated when
+the time came for an onward move. So they sat on chairs, baggage and
+benches under the verandah, and tried to keep awake, while observing
+the steady downpour. One member of the party at last gave up the
+struggle against the inevitable, and sank gracefully into the arms of
+Morpheus, represented by the bags of biscuits and other impedimenta. A
+photo was secured of him as he lay half concealed amongst the
+portmanteaux, packages and "pan." We refrain from publishing it, because
+the chief feature of the picture is in the boots of the sleeper. (We
+trust no weak humour is intended in the preceding paragraph?--EDITOR.)
+
+[Illustration: _Hart-Parr Engine, drawing Roadmaker_.]
+
+A slight diversion was caused by a repacking of some goods after lunch.
+It seems that the bottles, with contents (a most important item), had
+been forgotten, and The Wild Man was approached with a request that the
+bottles might be transported to Lucero in his bag; of course, he
+cheerily acquiesced, but as the whole of the contents of his bag had to
+be turned out to pack the bottles scientifically, and as that bag
+happened to be the same receptacle in which The Wild Man had secreted
+the various articles collected during his tour of appreciation this
+morning, developments were interesting to all, save to the man who had
+laboured under the delusion that several horns and other articles which
+appeared from the bag, were still in his own possession. However,
+probably remembering The Wild Man's character (_vide_ page 205), he said
+nothing, but calmly looked on as his goods were repacked and removed
+from his sight for ever. All honour to such unselfishness.
+
+After a cup of tea and farewells, the ladies were transferred to the
+coaches in a highly skilled manner, and a damp drive to Lucero followed.
+One sheet of drizzling rain surrounded us all through the journey, and
+none were sorry when, after a side slip or two, the coaches drew up (not
+before it was quite dark) outside the estancia house. A change into dry
+garments was very welcome, and there was to be noticed for the first
+time since the start of the Tacuruers, a dull air of respectability
+over the party, as they collected for their evening meal.
+
+Shirt fronts and pretty frocks appeared once more, for here we had a
+lady presiding over the table. Still the old proverb proved true "Fine
+feathers do not make fine birds," and some members of the party did not
+live up to their costumes. It may have been the good dinner, or the
+genial glow of a fire that upset their behaviour, but the fact remains
+that there were two or three unusual occurrences during the course of a
+merry meal. The Kid was observed to be burying her face in a spoonful of
+jelly, and others seemed to be performing a sort of a general post
+during the repast. However, all ended well, and after coffee various
+home pets were introduced by our hostess, who is a devoted lover of
+animals. A nutria appeared and some friendly dogs, and we heard of tame
+foxes and diminutive ponies to be seen next day. It was a great regret
+to everyone that The Delineator did not put in an appearance for dinner;
+he pleaded headache and retired to bed early, perhaps in the hope of
+getting some sleep before The Instigator came to share the room.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+HARD CASE NO. 1.--"T.K." writes to inquire the proper procedure under
+the following circumstances:--"A lady receives a plate of jelly at
+dinner, the gentleman on her right at once takes up her spoon and
+commences to feed her with the jelly." What should she do? And if she
+allows herself to be fed, is it etiquette, this year, for the gentleman
+on her left to give her a slight push, which results in her nose meeting
+the jelly in the spoon? We offer the problems to our readers, and a
+prize will be awarded for the best solution sent in.
+
+LOST.--One pair deer's horns, nicely coloured. If this advertisement
+meets the eye of T.W.M. the owner would be very glad to have the horns
+returned to Michelot, but does not wish to make a point of it.
+
+FOUND.--The reward of £10 for lost ear-ring is withdrawn; owner found
+lost property herself, and has paid for her advertisement.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 5.
+
+_Wednesday, March 30th, 1910._
+
+
+Much to everyone's relief The Delineator appeared at breakfast looking
+himself again; he replied to the enquiries showered upon him that his
+indisposition could be explained in the words used by Herbert Spencer,
+when he defined life as "The continuous adjustment of internal relations
+to external relations." The Delineator said that that formula, when one
+considered the various cookings, including the Oriental style we had
+lately sampled, exactly described the cause of his passing illness, from
+which he was now happily recovered.
+
+The morning was bright, and nothing but the drying mud remained to
+remind us of the rains of yesterday. At breakfast some strange tales
+were told of a frightened nutria which generally slept peacefully under
+a wardrobe in the dressing-room; but last night the room had another
+occupant, whose sleep was not so peaceful as that of the nutria, and at
+the first sound of a snore the poor animal was so scared that it leapt
+from its usual bed and rushed round the room till it found a way of
+escape, through the window, to a more restful soot.
+
+Cattle-dipping was to be the sight of the morning, and as soon as the
+out-door menagerie was explored, under the guidance of our hostess, who
+has a wonderful knack with all animals, the coach and cavalcade of
+riders set forth to the scene of operations. Here we found a large
+number of animals ready to be dipped. This process is necessary to clean
+the animals from the garrapata. This is a tick which has been, and still
+is, the terror of the north. It is the means of transmitting to cattle
+the disease known as "Texas Fever." The rough native cattle do not
+suffer badly from this fever, but any newly imported fine stock from the
+south generally succumb to it.
+
+Time after time wealthy men who realized the menace this pest was to the
+north have attempted to fight it, but their efforts have not been
+successful. Often their loss has been immense, sometimes as many as 95%
+of the total animals brought into the neighbourhood from the Province of
+Buenos Aires have died.
+
+Undoubtedly these constant failures helped to give the northern district
+a bad name, but the experiments with the animals should have been
+carried on by means of acclimatisation. Animals for the north should be
+carefully handled, and with constant vigilance, adapted to their
+surroundings. These are the principles on which the Santa Fé Land
+Company have been working, and they confidently predict that before long
+they will be selling pedigree bulls with tick on them. When this is an
+accomplished fact, another great barrier to the progress of the north
+will have been broken down.
+
+The cattle tick has two phases in its life.
+
+[Illustration: _Cattle leaving Dip._]
+
+After establishing itself on the animal, the tick becomes a blood
+sucker, and at certain seasons animals running wild over unbroken camps,
+become literally covered with these bichos; consequently the cattle fall
+back in condition, and the mortality amongst them mounts up to an
+appallingly large percentage. To obviate this the dip is used, and has
+come into general use. The animals are collected from afar, and brought
+into the corral (a strong enclosure), from which there is a wooden
+passage, having many contrivances useful for marking, branding, and
+dehorning cattle, all of which are used in their due season; but for
+dipping purposes this passage terminates in a precipitous slope, and the
+animals are gently forced along it from the corral to plunge suddenly
+into a prepared bath of a strong solution, which kills every tick; so it
+follows, that if the animal has been totally submerged, it is absolutely
+free from the parasite. The object of dipping is to kill all kinds of
+insects and parasites which trouble the bovine race; especially so the
+common Louse (the Dermatodectis Bovis) which is the scab producer. The
+worst pest is, however, the cattle tick or Garrapata, and known under
+the scientific name of Boophilus Annulatus.
+
+This latter is the harbinger of the microbe of Texas Fever or Tristeza,
+as it is known in the Argentine.
+
+The remedies that are principally employed are of a tarry basis and
+prepared so as to be easily mixed with water, usually in the proportion
+of 1 to 100.
+
+The amount of mixture used is 2.60 litres, and the cost works out at 10
+cents. per head.
+
+The greatest number of animals that the Santa Fé Land Company have been
+able to put through the dip in a day is 6,700, working from 6 a.m. to 5
+p.m.
+
+Animals certainly are frightened the first time they take this bath, but
+very soon they find the comfort of its effect, and come to like and
+enjoy it. The cattle we saw dipped to-day had mostly been through the
+process several times before, and walked calmly down the passage,
+seeming to enjoy their scramble through the dip. On emerging from the
+dip, the animals stand in a small corral on the other side, and are kept
+there for a while to allow the liquor to drain off their hides, and find
+its way back to the tank.
+
+Some of the younger animals seemed scared at the first plunge, and
+though a very great point is made of the fact that they must all be
+collected and driven into the corral and down the passage, with the
+utmost gentleness, some of them grew so disturbed at the unusual
+proceeding, that they leapt on to the animal in front instead of sliding
+down the dip as the older animals do. However, there are always plenty
+of men under the superintendence of the mayor-domo to see that no harm
+comes to any animal, and though in the early days of dips, broken legs
+were not unusual occurrences, nowadays there are very seldom any
+accidents, though thousands of animals may be dipped in a few hours. One
+man holds a curious sort of wide blunt prong, with which he presses the
+heads of any animals, who have not been totally immersed, under the
+liquid as they pass him, thus ensuring the destruction of all parasites.
+
+After this inspection The Instigator and company were taken on to see
+land which was being broken by bullocks, and thence to the Rio Salado,
+(which we are hoping to negotiate much further north to-morrow), and
+returned in time for lunch. After a short pause for rest and a cup of
+tea, the party, this time with their host and hostess, set off for
+various windmills, earth tanks, etc., which were of recent erection, and
+were to be reviewed by The Instigator. Everything he saw seemed to give
+satisfaction, and a weary but happy band returned to the house for
+dinner, in the course of which some native dishes were introduced to us.
+
+Another lovely sunset favoured us this evening as we drove homewards,
+and we hear that My Lady and The Wild Man almost came to a serious
+quarrel over the shapes of various beautifully tinted clouds. One said a
+certain cloud resembled a bear, the other said it was exactly like a
+pork pie "shot" with a diamond tiara, and the matter was still under
+bitter discussion long after the cloud in question had faded away into a
+nebulous mist. The evening was calm and still, and we all sat outside
+after coffee, discussing the unknown journey of to-morrow, and the
+perils that might befall us on our way across the camps. The Instigator
+talked emphatically, and quite unnecessarily, of "an early start is
+imperative," till we all grew tired of his insistence and retired to
+bed, where some of the party wondered under what circumstances they
+would be sleeping to-morrow.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CORRESPONDENCE.
+
+     LUCERO, _March 30th, 1910._ DEAR SIR,
+
+     May I use the valuable medium of your paper for the purpose of
+     announcing that anyone who wishes to accompany the explorers on the
+     excursion, under the guidance of The Jehu and myself to the wild
+     north, must be ready, decently clothed and fed, with a supply of
+     patience and drinkables in their personal luggage, not later than 6
+     a.m., to-morrow, March 31st, 1910.
+
+     I am, Yours, etc., THE INSTIGATOR.
+
+     P.S.--While taking suitable precautions for the safety and
+     happiness of those who entrust themselves to our care, we wish it
+     to be understood that we cannot hold ourselves responsible for any
+     loss of wearing apparel or other goods, temper, meals, or rest,
+     caused by rain, mosquitoes, frogs, snakes, overeating, or the
+     incompatibility of other passengers, or from any cause
+     whatsoever.--T.I.
+
+     _To the Editor of "The Tacuru."_
+
+     _March 30th, 1910_.
+
+     SIR,
+
+     We should be glad to know if anything can be done to stop the
+     public nuisance in the shape of the amalgamation of two members of
+     the party, who are obviously descended from some long ago Christy
+     Minstrels. We believe that, taken separately, one at a time, at
+     long intervals, the aforesaid members can be tolerated for a few
+     minutes (personally, we find them nauseating to a degree, under the
+     most favourable circumstances), but together, when they attempt to
+     be bright and amusing, and fancy they have a sense of humour and
+     intelligent wit, they are absolutely impossible. They might have
+     been useful (say in 1500) as the final torture decreed by the
+     Inquisition, but in this year of grace of 1910, they are
+     unwarrantable, and we shall be grateful if immediate steps can be
+     taken for their separation, if not for their entire suppression. We
+     are, Dear Sir, still suffering from violent headaches, caused by
+     being shut up in the same coach for three hours with these
+     imbeciles.
+
+     Yours truly,
+
+     T.D. and M.L.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+HARD CASE No. 1.
+
+The prize of five cents has been awarded to a correspondent O.G. (who is
+requested to forward his real name and address as soon as possible) for
+the best solution to the Hard Case we published yesterday. He says that
+in those circumstances the lady should undoubtedly allow herself to be
+fed, and should do all in her power by opening her mouth widely, and
+turning her head slightly in the direction of the gentleman on her
+right, to assist him in his self-imposed task, and thus to avoid giving
+him the impression that he had committed an unusual social solecism in
+commencing to feed her.
+
+Numerous correspondents have sent in solutions, but we consider the
+above the best. Several answers have also been sent to the second part
+of the question, and all agree that the gentleman on the left had no
+shadow of excuse for causing the lady's nose to rest in the jelly. Such
+a proceeding is totally without precedent in the highest circles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 6.
+
+_Thursday, March 31st, 1910._
+
+THE LARGEST CIRCULATION OF ANY DAILY PAPER PUBLISHED ON THIS TRIP.
+
+Everyone was astir early this morning, remembering The Instigator's
+final warning last night of the necessity for an early start, but, on
+assembling for breakfast at 7 a.m., The Instigator himself was missed.
+His hawk-like eye (we apologise to Our Guest) had noticed some Galpon,
+or drinking trough, or something, which he must, of course, investigate
+before leaving Lucero, and dragging off The Delineator and The Jehu, he
+quite forgot breakfast and the "early start," as he fussed over his
+new-found interest, and it was not until he was captured forcibly by a
+search party that his companions were allowed to come in to
+breakfast--after the rest of the party had finished. Much to everyone's
+delight the morning was bright and fine, and all promised favourably for
+the excursion into the unknown.
+
+While waiting for the start, considerable interest was caused by the
+home-building operations of some birds, who were constructing a nest
+under the eaves of the outbuilding, and manipulating the mud for its
+construction in a most clever manner. One bird flew off to get some mud
+while the other energetically fashioned the last piece into shape in the
+nest, then, when the first returned, the second bird flew off to get her
+contribution of clay; so the moulding of that nest grew apace while we
+watched its progress.
+
+Before we set out a pleading message came (and it was not the first,
+either) from those left at headquarters, begging us to give up our
+exploration scheme, and, in view of weather reports, to return in peace
+to the civilisation of San Cristobal; but needless to say, nothing
+daunted, The Instigator still kept to his determination to see all there
+was to be seen, and the more people try to dissuade him from a thing,
+once he has decided to do it, the more fixed becomes his intention to do
+that thing. So, expostulations were useless, the final preparations and
+farewells were made, a last communication held with Our Hostess at
+Cristobal, before our passing into the wilds, and the Tacuru coaches
+with their freight of precious humans, and still more precious food and
+drink, started off from their pleasant rest at Lucero. Someone was heard
+to murmur as the coaches drove off--
+
+    "Then hey! for boot and horse, lad,
+      And round the world away;
+    The Instigator _must_ have his tour, lad,
+      And _never_ will give way!"
+
+But this puerile parody met with the indifference it deserved, and,
+accompanied by the Section Manager, we commenced our journey, travelling
+for some hours over the land which is in his charge. "Monte," too,
+seemed to consider that his presence as a guide and friend would be
+necessary to the party, and came along with us; he is a "wild" dog of
+the deerhound type, who was taken as a tiny puppy from a litter found in
+a wood near Los Moyes, and has ever since been devoted to his captors.
+There is a calm air of disinterested abstraction about "Monte" which is
+very satisfying, and he is undoubtedly a philosopher. One of the two
+Indian guides we picked up during the day's journey also had a dog, but
+it was of a very different appearance and character to "Monte." "Monte"
+looked on mankind in general as needing his care and supervision, while
+the little black smooth-haired terrier felt "the great passion" for one
+alone. His master was evidently his god, and if he lost sight of
+"master" for two minutes it was really touching to hear his cries,
+almost like those of a child, as he tried to trace his master through
+the shallow water which we sometimes crossed.
+
+His yelps as he splashed along, nose to the ground, almost voiced the
+sentiment:--
+
+    "Rank and wealth I pass unheeding,
+      Never giving them their due;
+    For my heart and soul are needing,
+      Nothing in the world but "YOU!"
+
+And he and his "YOU" were never very far apart.
+
+In a country where kindness to animals is not considered necessary, and
+is very rarely found, this example of devotion between dog and man was
+all the more noticeable and appreciated. Needless to say, as soon as The
+Saint observed it she wanted to "give the man a present," and was only
+restrained from doing so because she had nothing suitable for
+presentation in her luggage, or in that of The Instigator.
+
+About one o'clock we came to the banks of the Salado, concerning the
+crossing of which river we had heard so much. We had been told it was
+impossible and impassable; that the rains had swollen the river too much
+for a safe passage; that at the best of times the banks were too steep
+and slippery for carts to negotiate, and that all idea of crossing had
+better be given up. The Instigator and The Jehu merely smiled when they
+heard of these difficulties, but some members of the party had wondered
+how the traversing of that river was to be accomplished, and they were
+agreeably surprised, on reaching the spot chosen for crossing, to find
+that a tenant had built a narrow "tajamar," or earth bank, across the
+river, which at this place was not very wide. Everyone dismounted, the
+horses were taken out, and all hands were in request to pull the
+vehicles across. First went the coaches, then the luggage carts were
+dragged over. To illustrate the difficulties of the proceedings we
+publish one of the many photos taken, during the crossing of the
+tajamar. Our Guest was one of the first to help in the conveyance of
+these carts. Apparently, since the gate-opening episode, he has "learnt
+the wisdom early to discern true beauty in utility," for he is always to
+the fore when work is to be done, and in this case his athletic training
+proved the truth of the Yankee expression that "It's muscle that tells."
+The Delineator and The Wild Man, as usual, when real hard work presents
+itself, "thought the party would like photographs of it," and, armed
+with their cameras, retired to safe distances, where the work could not
+possibly interfere with them or they with it, and took photos of the
+progress of the carts. We cannot complain, however, of their action (or
+inaction, rather), for the resulting pictures make a good memorial of
+the crossing of the Salado by the "Tacuruers." The ladies rushed to
+assist when they saw that photos were being taken, but, as the carts
+were well over the danger line by the time the ladies were at the
+ropes, we have no pictured record of their deeds, which, we may note,
+were really quite valueless at this point.
+
+[Illustration: _Crossing the Salado._]
+
+[Illustration: _The Effect of a Long Drought_.]
+
+Once the horses, carts, and luggage were safely across the tajamar the
+more serious business of cocktails and lunch was thought of, and, in an
+incredibly short time, the usual asado of meat, brought from Lucero, was
+under discussion.
+
+The unfortunate sheep who were still spared were let out for a short
+run.
+
+The Kid, too, was set free in the hopes that she might possibly prove
+useful now, but, judging from her attitude during the preparations for
+lunch, we should say those hopes would not be fulfilled.
+
+As we rest after our arduous crossing of the Salado, our thoughts are
+inclined to wander to the awful tragedy enacted here in the year 1904.
+It was a disastrous year for many of the northern camp men. There was an
+appalling drought of long continuation, for which all the northern camps
+were totally unprepared; the river over which we have just passed became
+the concentration spot for all that is most terrible at such times. It
+is not exaggerating the case when we say that 15,000 animals (some of
+them having travelled south for 100 miles or more), forced by instinct,
+and guided by wire fences, came to drink from the foul, polluted chain
+of water-holes which then represented this river. One can imagine the
+horror and distress of it all--not a blade of grass for miles, where
+to-day the vegetation is luxuriant, and not a drop of water in this
+river on whose banks we are resting, only a few mud-holes in which
+hundreds of decaying carcases were embedded. This is what the cattle
+found after their long journey south, through which they were daily
+growing weaker. It is not surprising to hear that, at one place alone
+on the river-bed, over 3,000 hides were taken off dead animals, and,
+probably, it is well within the mark to say that at least another 1,000
+were lost. Well may we wonder, "Why this terrible suffering and loss?"
+And the answer comes back, "Human negligence." It was the want of wells
+which caused all this misery; cattle will bear drought for a long time,
+but the actual want of water maddens them and causes the death of
+thousands. If the northern camps are to be colonised and are to become
+prosperous, the first necessity is the obtaining of a supply of good
+water; second in importance only to the water supply is the fencing of
+the camps, by which means a control over the cattle is established;
+refined camps, better grasses, and alfalfa, will all follow in due
+course; and anyone who has studied these northern lands would have no
+hesitation in predicting that these camps will, in time, prove just as
+profitable as any in the vast Republic of Argentina, and this is saying
+a good deal, as those who have travelled over the rich southern camps
+will realise. But, for his own sake, and for the sake of the cattle in
+his care, let it be the first business of the estanciero to provide good
+and sufficient wells, so that the terrible history of 1904 may never be
+repeated.
+
+[Illustration: _Refined Camps._]
+
+However, the scene is different to-day, with a pleasant sunshine, the
+crisp air sweeping over the uncultivated camp of natural grasses, and
+plenty of water in the river; but we cannot linger, so, after the pipe
+of peace for some, and a short siesta for others, "the all-aboard" bugle
+was sounded, horses were put in, carts packed once more, and, after a
+farewell to our host--who was returning to the section house--we went on
+ahead into the wilder regions, and had a pleasant, though rather short,
+drive for two or three hours before The Jehu called a halt. He explained
+that we should require at least an hour for the unloading and erection
+of the tents, tables, etc., before dusk; therefore, as the sun was only
+a hand's breadth from the horizon (roughly speaking, an hour before
+setting), we must dismount. He had chosen a pleasant spot for the camp
+of the night, not far from a small ranch, and here the coaches halted.
+Of course the luggage carts could not come up until some time later, as
+their loads were so much heavier, and My Lady became even more popular
+than usual when she suggested that the wait should be beguiled with a
+cup of tea, and produced her tea-basket from the coach; true, we found
+that there was no tea, but My Lady had plenty of cocoa. Water was
+obtained from the house near by, and a very welcome cup of cocoa handed
+round, accompanied by an unexpected slice of cake which apparently
+appeared from nowhere, and which disappeared equally effectively, for it
+was decidedly useful fodder and appreciated as such by all.
+
+We discovered here that our friend "Monte" had declined to go back after
+lunch with his present master to Lucero, but had chosen to accompany his
+past master on this expedition. His presence was an agreeable surprise.
+He was found surveying the party with his calm scrutiny, and apparently
+he approved of our spot for camping, also of the cake.
+
+As The Chaperon could find no work to do before the carts arrived, he,
+for once, relaxed from his terrible strain of usefulness, and tided over
+the tedious hour by trying to "throw the knife" in the most approved
+cowboy manner. As each member of the party had had their "tea" (he was
+practising with the knife which was used for the carving of the
+cake--and anything else, when needed), no one objected to this harmless
+amusement on his part, provided he did not pitch the knife on to their
+toes; and, after long exercise, with the help of The Wild Man, who is
+an adept at these tricks, The Chaperon at last succeeded in "throwing
+the knife" to his satisfaction, and others' terror. A sigh of relief
+escaped the lips of those who were dodging the knife when they saw the
+luggage-carts looming in the distance. They at once drew the attention
+of The Chaperon to the approach of the carts, and were rejoiced to see
+him return the weapon to its sheath (in his leggings), and stiffen into
+the attitude of action once more.
+
+No sooner were the carts on the spot than every member of the party was
+at work, or pretending to be so. Poles were taken off the carts, luggage
+uncovered, canvas was everywhere, yells for "the mallet" alternated with
+the resounding blows struck, with the same, by the strong men of the
+band, tent-pegs bristled all over the ground, everyone wanted the hammer
+at the same time, and apparent chaos reigned for half an hour; then,
+behold! as by magic, the din ceased, two tents had been securely
+erected, floored with canvas, the luggage was placed under another
+covering of canvas, a table, with plates, knives, forks, etc., was ready
+in an open space, camp-stools stood around it, beds, blankets, sheets
+and pillows galore were in each tent, and the smell of roasting meat in
+the distance rose pleasantly upon the air. The place looked as if the
+party had been accustomed to camp there regularly once a week, so well
+was everything arranged. Nothing had been forgotten which could add
+comfort, for all hands had been working hard, and each peon, too, had
+done his share; in fact, the sight would have rejoiced the soul of the
+most ardent, red-tied Socialist, for surely never did a community carry
+out more thoroughly the principle of "each one working for the happiness
+of others." True, there was no trade union to limit their exertions, but
+that was an omission for which we may be thankful.
+
+As the dusk quickly deepened, the peons gathered round their fire, over
+which the meat was cooking, a little distance from the camp site; the
+lamps were lit and hung from poles, and the party looked with
+satisfaction on their handiwork. It would have made an interesting, and
+not unpicturesque illustration, if one could have obtained a photo of
+the "Primera Vista" camp that evening.
+
+But it was at this time, just when all seemed smiling and happy, that
+the travellers were to go through their first real trial, for here the
+discovery was made of a serious loss. It was spoken of in whispers at
+first, but gradually the whispers increased to a murmur as the loss
+became generally known; yet neither man nor woman quailed, and none
+could have told from their outward bearing the bitter struggle they were
+inwardly facing. A cynical traveller once said, after noting the
+innumerable number of statues in the land, "South America has evidently
+produced a phenomenal number of heroes," but we are inclined to think
+their tale has not been told if those who bore their trouble so bravely
+that night are to be "unhonoured and unsung." Think what it meant, you
+who may read this, in years to come, in civilised places, comfortably
+seated in your armchairs, conveniently near the cellaret, and,--honour
+our brave! They had at least two days to face (with no prospect of
+obtaining supplies anywhere) and they discovered, here, that _the case
+of whisky was lost,_ left behind, vanished--they knew not what, only
+that it had disappeared!
+
+    Theirs not to reason why,
+    Theirs not to moan or sigh,
+    E'en though their throats were dry,
+            Noble "Tacuruers"!
+
+True, the comforting thought that they still had a bottle and a-half of
+the precious drink with them may have helped them to keep their spirits
+up with the hope of pouring spirits down, but a bottle and a-half is
+not much amongst so many thirsty souls for three days, and, we repeat,
+that great courage and bravery was shown by the equanimity with which
+the party bore the news of their loss.
+
+A minor loss was that the dinner napkins were not forthcoming, but that
+surprised no one, for they were in the charge of The Kid, and, of
+course, she had forgotten them at Lucero. We believe she said something
+about their being "left to be washed" there, but no one listened to her,
+and we used glass cloths instead.
+
+At our first camp evening meal everyone did justice to the goods that
+The Chaperon provided. Coffee was not forgotten, and, after their
+dinner, the more musical members of the band tried to sing--it kept the
+mosquitoes off--and when "a catch" was attempted even the bicho colorado
+was cowed into silence. We had looked forward to hearing the guitar
+played by one of the peons here. He had brought his instrument with him,
+but, unfortunately, had dropped a large packing case upon it, which did
+not improve its tone, and this accident prevented our hearing the
+national dances played on a guitar in the open camp as we had hoped to
+do.
+
+Weary with the exertions of the day the party turned their thoughts and
+steps early towards those tents where rows of little bedsteads, each
+with its mosquito net above, looked so attractively inviting, and before
+long lights were out and peace reigned as far as possible.
+
+    "Thus done the Vales to bed they creep,
+    By whispering winds soon lulled asleep."
+
+Guards were set and they, with Monte, were left to protect the horses
+and camp through the night.
+
+CORRESPONDENCE.
+
+     _March 31st, 1910._
+
+     SIR,
+
+     I feel that, as I am in a measure responsible for the presence of
+     the two people to whom your correspondents of yesterday object, I
+     should like to apologise, through the medium of your paper, for the
+     inconvenience these two people have caused, and to assure your
+     correspondents that steps shall be taken to prevent a repetition of
+     the annoyance. The fact is, that both of them are so rarely out of
+     Bedlam at the same time that I had not realised the necessity for
+     keeping them apart, nor the danger of their amalgamation, but they
+     shall be kept in separate coaches in future, and I can only express
+     my sincere regret for the mischief and trouble they have caused.
+
+     I am,
+
+     Yours, etc.,
+
+     THE INSTIGATOR.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A correspondent writes to know if any of our readers can solve the
+following problem for her:--"'A' starts on a seven days' journey with
+eighty-seven horses, he loses two, one of which he finds next day, and
+at the end of the week has 110 horses." The enquirer has searched
+through her "Hamblin Smith" but can find no honest method of solution.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+EXPERT GUIDE.--Anyone requiring a really good guide, thoroughly
+conversant with the Chaco, ways of wild Indians and animals, please
+apply "T.W.M.," Offices of this paper. Good shot, can cook and sew,
+able to point out all the beauties of nature, animal and vegetable.
+Terms moderate. Inspires confidence in the most timid ladies by his
+winning smile.
+
+LOST.--One tin of gingerbread biscuits (Huntley & Palmer). No reward is
+offered, as they will probably be eaten by the time this advertisement
+is in print. If anyone would return the tin, as a recuerdo, to Lucero,
+advertiser would be obliged.
+
+LOST.--Lucero. Several good horses.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Several correspondents have written to know whether it is not a menace
+to the rest of the community for one member of the band to sleep
+promiscuously on the bricks, or anywhere else handy, at night. Two or
+three say they have tripped over him in the dark and consider it would
+be a safeguard if anyone preferring to spend the night in this way were
+compelled by law to burn an anchor or other light. They are quite
+willing to believe that the offender had had at least one "starboard
+light" at some period of that night, but that light had lost its power
+of illumination at the time our correspondents tripped over the
+prostrate figure, and they wish to suggest that in future, people
+sleeping out should use some means to safeguard unwary passers-by. (We
+give the complaint the publicity it deserves and trust steps will be
+taken to right the matter.--ED.)
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 7.
+
+_Friday, April 1st, 1910._
+
+ADVERTISE IN "THE TACURU"--THIS ENSURES YOUR WANTS BEING KNOWN IN EVERY
+COACH.
+
+
+We fancy that most of the party were awake to see the dawn this morning:
+it may have been that they only saw the first streaks of light between
+the openings of their tent as they lay in bed trying to soothe the
+itching of the mosquito bites, but we think that few were asleep as the
+sun rose gloriously from the mists on the horizon. It was a strange
+sight, the sudden flooding with bright sunlight of that rough camp land,
+which scarcely owned a tree or shrub. It may be the primitive barbarian
+lying dormant in all of us though hidden under generations of
+civilization, which makes us feel a close communion with Nature when we
+see her in these great uncultivated wastes; but, whatever the causes of
+the sympathy, these pictures, of wild untouched Nature, leave an
+impression and a longing more deep than any experience gained in years
+of civil life; none will ever regret having seen that sunrise on the
+plain, though all regretted the cause of their wakefulness this morning.
+
+Of course The Chaperon was up and clothed (he always seemed to be) and
+ready to get basins of water, looking-glasses, shaving materials and all
+luxuries for the others. The ladies were heard to enquire why he did not
+bring them early tea and hot water, but, on the whole, he combined the
+duties of valet and maid fairly efficiently.
+
+Rumour has it that The Chaperon had given instructions that he was to be
+called by the guard an hour before dawn, so, in the dark, he was
+awakened by hoarse whispers of his name and gentle shakings. After he
+arose it occurred to him that it felt more like the middle of the night
+than the morning, and he enquired of the peon what time it was, the
+answer coming in soft Spanish, "Can't say, the cocks have not crowed
+yet!!!" On investigation The Chaperon found it was scarcely 4 a.m., so
+spent the remaining two hours sitting round the camp fire with the
+peons, alternately dozing and sucking maté. We believe he heard some
+expert opinions on the subject of the "roncadors" of the camp during his
+vigil. At any rate he had full opportunity for proving the reality of
+Ruskin's words, "There is no solemnity so deep to a right-thinking
+creature as that of dawn." At the same time he was heard to murmur
+something to the effect that he would prefer a little less of the "deep
+solemnity" and a little more of "deep slumber" another morning.
+
+Scarcely were the toilets, and the packing of personal luggage,
+accomplished, before a request was made that the mosquito nets and beds
+might be removed for loading, and, as we emerged from the various tents,
+the breakfast-table greeted us ready laden with tea (from the kettle),
+sardines, jam, peons' biscuits, etc. True, the only milk procurable was
+some condensed milk, which had "gone solid," there were not enough
+knives to go round, and a few other irregularities, but no little items
+of that sort ever disturbed the temper of The Tacuruers; they simply
+remarked with the other "Autocrat of the Breakfast Table," "Difficulties
+are Nature's challenges to you," and used one spoon for all their cups,
+tore off lumps of bread with their fingers (when they could get hold of
+a loaf), and used the same plate and knife for jam and sardines alike,
+and enjoyed their early meal.
+
+[Illustration: "_Rich black alluvial Soil_."]
+
+There was one subject that did cause sore feeling, and that was
+mosquitoes. We had thought we knew all about them, we were proud with
+the conceit of nets, ammonia, and veils, but our pride had a fall.
+Comparatively speaking, we had only known mosquitoes theoretically
+before (though that knowledge was bad enough); last night we learnt of
+them practically, none of us had thought of _tucking in_ our nets, and
+mosquitoes seemed to swarm up under each net before we had been in bed
+for half an hour. Little peace did anyone get through those long night
+hours, and, though a voice came from one of the tents about 2 a.m.,
+remarking clearly above the intermittent snores, "Oh! how lovely," few
+echoed the sentiment, and the speaker assured us this morning that she
+was only dreaming, and that her words did not refer to insects of any
+kind, neither were they made in connection with the upheaval caused by
+"Monte" at one period of the night. He had taken up his quarters at one
+end of the ladies' tent, but was disturbed from his beauty sleep by the
+sudden barking of a dog outside the other end of the tent. This, of
+course, must be seen to; it was his duty, so, leaping up, he rushed
+through the tent, lifting up each one of the low beds, and their
+occupants, as he passed under them on his way to quell the outside
+noise. The ladies forbore to scream, though they thought of earthquakes,
+but settled down again to their occupation of trying to kill mosquitoes,
+quietly, in the dark, and to snatch moments of slumber occasionally.
+
+After breakfast, Our Guest was rather unkindly "put on" by The
+Instigator to dig holes, to ascertain how deep the rich, black, alluvial
+soil reached; the ladies energetically washed up the breakfast things,
+which occupation resulted in The Kid once more, and this time finally,
+being given notice to leave, without a character, owing to general
+incompetence, impertinence, and lack of ability to wash out tea-cloths.
+
+By 7 a.m. the coaches and carts were ready, horses rounded up, the
+"Primera Vista" camp was struck, and the march onward recommenced. But
+not before The Chaperon had pointed out a terror that "might have been."
+After breakfast he approached us with a stick held at arm's length, on
+which hung a dead, slimy-looking, grey snake, about 4 feet long. He
+explained that this reptile had crawled over the neck of one of the
+peons as he lay on the grass last night. This had happened before we
+went to bed, and we felt grateful to The Chaperon for having saved us
+from another horror last night by keeping the fact, and snake, to
+himself until we were leaving that camp.
+
+The first part of our drive to-day was a new experience; we had passed
+over a few ant-hills before on our journey, but now we came to a land
+where it was difficult, if not impossible, to dodge them; they literally
+covered the ground, and the South American ant-hill is a power to be
+reckoned with. It is not the yielding mass composed of soft earth and
+other heterogeneous materials as found in England, which can be
+demolished with a kick, should anyone have sufficient temerity to lay
+himself open to the attacks of the inmates by thus disturbing them; but
+the homes of the black ant, and the Amazon ant, in Argentina are quite a
+different affair. They are, usually, solid, hard masses of earth from
+three to four feet high, very wide at the base, and covered entirely
+with coarse grass. They present an unyielding obstacle to any vehicle,
+and the wheels of even a heavily laden cart make no impression on them,
+but they are not unlikely to cause the overturning of that cart, and
+even traction engines suffer from the sudden drop caused by these
+gigantic sugar-loaves. Therefore it will be easily realized that the
+innumerable ant-hills through, and over which, we drove, were no
+inconsiderable menace to the safety of the party, and it was only due to
+the great care and skill of our drivers in threading their way amongst
+these obstacles that the inmates of the coaches were not upset time
+after time. As it was, no accident of the slightest description
+occurred--only a few bumps and jolts as we ascended or descended one of
+the ant-hills, which are so difficult to discern in open camp, where the
+whole land is covered alike with long grass. The worst part of our
+travelling did not last more than three or four hours; then we came to
+smoother country, fewer ant-hills, and occasional small lagunas, the
+land growing slightly undulating, though still bare of trees, and, after
+another three hours' driving, during which we had many changes of horses
+and several "helps" from the guides over extra bad pieces of travelling,
+we could see in the distance the position of the Lake Palmar and the
+tops of the palms which grow on the farther shore.
+
+It was during this part of our day's journey that the peons made two
+captures of live animals in an armadillo and a nutria. These men have
+extraordinary good and far sight, and observe any movement in the grass,
+yards ahead of them. They at once killed both animals, for they are
+exceedingly fond of armadillo flesh, and cook the animal in its skin.
+
+It was decided that horses and drivers alike would require a rest when
+we reached the shores of the lake, and, after our cocheros had made
+futile attempts to cut figures of 8 with their respective four and
+two-in-hands on the invitingly firm, yellow sands which surround Lake
+Palmar, all dismounted, horses were taken out, and, while lunch was
+being prepared, the party wandered on the shores of the lake trying to
+find remnants of extinct monsters, fossilised palms, and other
+improbable things. The Instigator rushed up and down picking leaves to
+bits, collecting sand and examining it under the microscope (which is,
+as yet, his), tasting the water of the lake, and generally trying to
+find a way of teaching Nature how to improve on her own handiwork. It
+really seems a pity She does not engage him as her expert consulting
+engineer. My Lady and The Saint did discover a boar-hound's tooth on the
+sands, and two teeth of a nutria, very pretty in their long, gentle
+curve, white at the root and gradually deepening to a reddish-brown at
+the end; but both these finds were absolutely valueless, and, though
+there was talk of having the teeth set as brooches, etc., connoisseurs,
+such as The Wild Man, knew well that the "finds" would be dissolved to
+dust long before they could reach the civilisation of a jeweller's shop.
+
+The tiny banks which slope down from the camp to meet the wide
+stretching sands of the lake are covered with scrub and low trees of the
+acacia type, and, on one of these low trees, eked out with camp stools,
+the party, wearied with their search for curios, settled down to await
+their mid-day meal. It was gently broken to us that the sheep had at
+last been sacrificed, and would shortly appear before us in a different
+guise. The slaughter must have been most humane, for no one of us had
+heard the slightest cry or sound of distress, and now the flesh was
+being cooked. The peons would always prefer to cook all meat in the
+hide, if they were allowed to do so, and it is only with constant
+watching that they are prevented from thus wasting the valuable skins of
+animals. They are enormous meat eaters, which is scarcely to be wondered
+at, considering how scarce green food is. They live on meat, maté, and
+hard biscuits.
+
+The bright idea occurred to someone that a _hors-d'oeuvre_ would be
+acceptable, considering how long ago we had had our meagre early morning
+meal, so the only available article, a tinned Dutch cheese, was
+attacked; and none but those who have tried, under similar
+circumstances, one of the soft Dutch cheeses which one obtains in the
+Argentine, would be able to understand how very good it can be. As it
+was handed round (to everyone on the same knife), hunger, open-air, and
+the exercise of the ant-hills caused it to be appreciated more than
+usual, even beyond its deserts, if possible.
+
+As the party were thus collected (mostly with their legs tucked away to
+prevent the climbing operations of the black ants with which the ground
+was swarming), The Instigator took this opportunity to try to rid
+himself of some of the responsibility of the trip by calling a meeting
+(the whole nine were already there), and putting it to the vote as to
+whether The Kid, now that she had lost her companions the sheep, should
+be turned adrift to find her way back again as best she could, drowned
+in the lake, or allowed to accompany the party for the rest of the
+journey. A wild gleam of joy lit the eyes of everyone who knew anything
+of her at this prospect of getting rid of the trial. Both the ladies,
+and everyone who had known her for longer than the week, voted, hands
+and feet, for her extinction, but four of the men were foolishly too
+polite to express their real wishes. So she herself was left with the
+casting vote, and chose to go on! Thus The Instigator's well-thought
+plan to remove an incubus was frustrated. He was so disgusted with his
+failure in a laudable object that, directly after "lunch" (which meant
+each one cutting off from the half-sheep, that was handed round, the
+piece he or she preferred), he went off with his microscope trying to
+find other interests, and in a few minutes was growing unduly excited
+over a shrub on which he discovered some most unusual excrescences.
+These shapeless masses of earth, apparently growing on the shrub, he was
+examining from all points with the naked eye before submitting them to
+microscopic investigation, and it was only when Our Guest came up and
+removed some of the earth from one of the excrescences that The
+Instigator, who was watching intently, noted that the mass resolved
+itself into the shape of one of The Saint's shoes, which had been hung
+up on the shrub to dry after her lake-searching expedition. Foiled
+again, The Instigator collected The Delineator and My Lady, and started
+to walk to the northern end of the lake, where The Jehu could pick them
+up, when the washing, packing and harnessing allowed of an onward move.
+We are told that for once The Kid, perhaps stimulated by her recent
+narrow escape from total extinction, really did do some work here. It is
+true we only have her word, an indistinct murmur from The Chaperon, and
+some clean plates to vouch for the statement, as all the other members
+of the party remaining were lying in more or less graceful slumberous
+attitudes in carts, under trees, or anywhere else, enjoying forty winks.
+Some excellent photos were obtained of the sleeping beauties as they lay
+there resting, but their modesty caused them to beg for forbearance in
+the publication of any of the pictures thus obtained.
+
+Before the actual start was made, The Jehu, Our Guest, The Chaperon, and
+The Wild Man tried their hands at some revolver-shooting. Naturally, the
+drivers, after their long hours with the reins, could not do themselves
+justice with the more dangerous weapons, but, combined with Our Guest
+and The Wild Man, they left a fair show of broken bottles in the lake,
+rather to the surprise of the lookers-on.
+
+Neither of our cocheros could resist the further opportunity of figures
+of eight as we drove off on the hard sand, but we believe they were not
+encouraged in these exhibitions by their passengers, and, skirting the
+North part of the lake they came to a little ranch where they had
+arranged to meet the three walkers, who had discovered divers
+interesting specimens of animal, vegetable and mineral kinds during
+their very pleasant stroll round the lake. Here they were sitting at
+the ranch awaiting the arrival of the coaches, and they introduced the
+newcomers to a marvellous collection of tame birds with whom they had
+made acquaintance. The owners of the ranch had six or seven birds of
+different kinds, which flew about and pitched on anyone's shoulder or
+hand, or on the carriages, and were most friendly; in fact, one big bird
+was so willing to become attached to us that we could scarcely persuade
+it to leave the coach when we were ready to drive on.
+
+We allowed those who had driven to the spot a few moments in which to
+dismount and greet the neat little mistress of the ranch, with whom we
+had already made friends, and her pretty children. The roofing of this
+little ranch and its out-houses was most interesting. It was carried out
+entirely with trunks of palm trees. These, split in half and cleared of
+all sap, made very effective roofing, placed alternately in concave and
+convex form, so that the ridges of the two lengths of trunk placed bark
+upward rest in the hollow of the intervening trunk. Naturally, all rain
+water drains off the convex half into the concave trunk and flows down
+these gullies into the water course formed of another hollowed palm
+trunk running along the lower edge of the roof. A more suitable and
+rainproof roof could scarcely be designed. The mistress of the house was
+most anxious to entertain us to tea, but, having picked up our guide
+from Vera, who it was arranged should meet us here with letters, we
+could not spare time for further delay, and once more started off with
+the guide ahead of us.
+
+After leaving the ranch we turned to the eastward, and before long
+passed over the Calchaqui river (which is more generally known as the
+Golondrino here). This was not a difficult matter.
+
+After crossing the Calchaqui we enter quite a new country, the land is
+perceptibly higher, the grasses are finer and trees begin to appear.
+First we came to the tall palm trees on the edge of the forest, and very
+imposing they were, then small montes gave place to the regular woods
+which stretch North on this side of the river, and trees abound. The
+scenery was altogether more tropical. Occasional flocks of bright pink
+flamingoes made a welcome touch of colour as they stood on the edge of
+some little laguna, or, disturbed by the unusual approach of coaches,
+flew off in the distance. Hares were to be seen now and then, and
+sometimes even one of the small wild deer of the forest was noticed
+before it rushed off to the shelter of the trees.
+
+Unfortunately, about this time, the sun, which had been so friendly all
+day, became overcast with clouds, and the sky assumed a threatening
+appearance; but, notwithstanding the wise head-shakings of those who
+know the country (The Delineator and The Jehu in particular), the party
+refused to be downhearted, and asserted that rain was the most unlikely
+event, and, in any case, they intended to enjoy their present drive
+through scenery which was not unlike that which would be found in an
+English park; the great expanses were gone, and in their place we had
+slightly undulating stretches of grass bordered with trees of all kinds.
+The whole aspect of the land had changed and the country here was
+extremely pretty, though no distant views could be obtained owing to the
+thick growth of the trees and the impossibility of finding any but the
+slightest rising ground.
+
+We arrived, before long, at a little ranch, in the neighbourhood of
+which we were to encamp for the night. The spot was very different to
+our camp of last night, for here we were surrounded with trees, and near
+by a flock of sheep, belonging to the ranch, were feeding. Before the
+heavier carts could arrive, and the work of tent-erecting commence,
+there was plenty of time for a cup of tea, with the aid of My Lady's
+useful basket; but all the water that could be obtained from the
+so-called "well" at the ranch was half mud, and, though this was used
+with great success, we could only secure two mouthfuls of tea from each
+cup, as the rest of the contents was composed of mud. We believe The Kid
+was rather annoyed about this, and felt distinctly aggrieved, but she
+did not dare to give vent to her feelings, and the matter did not worry
+those who were looking forward to "cocktails" before dinner, and well
+they deserved those "cocktails," for by the time the carts arrived the
+atmosphere had become intensely close; a slight drizzle seemed only to
+add to the damp heat, and the work of unloading and erecting tents, and
+beds, and unpacking in that warm, steaming air, which was intensified
+under the coverings, was no light one; but here, again, everyone
+performed their quota, whether large or small, for the general good.
+Before long the tents were up. Three were erected to-night, as, owing to
+the rain, we should be obliged to have food under canvas. The Instigator
+caused great admiration by cunningly using trees as supports in the
+erection of the tents under his supervision, and thus hurrying matters
+on. Everything was finished, beds made, luggage under cover, the table
+laid ready in the tent, and lamps lit and suspended before the short
+twilight had given place to complete darkness, and The Saint once more
+earned the blessings and gratitude of all by thoughtfully insisting on a
+general "washing of faces." As she marshalled the party in front of her,
+and attacked each one with sponge and towel, we were irresistibly
+reminded of a board school; but that sponge of toilet vinegar, after the
+damp heat and all the work, was one of the most refreshing things
+imaginable, and everyone felt cleaner and more cheerful after this
+ablution, and ready to attack the poor little armadillo, which had been
+cooked; this meat tastes very much like sucking pig. The rain, which was
+coming down heavily by this time, was powerless to damp the spirits of
+the party as they sat down to dinner. They were only troubled because
+they feared this would be their last evening meal in camp, and that
+Civilisation might again claim them for her own to-morrow, for a great
+deal of the enjoyment of this trip has been due, undoubtedly, to its
+incomparable freedom. So they spent the time in eating, and holding a
+mutual admiration society meeting. Each decided (between the mouthfuls
+of mutton and armadillo) that every other member of the party was just
+the nicest person that he or she had ever met, and, as there was no one
+there to contradict the obviously erroneous statements, all were
+satisfied and content, and drank each other's healths with enthusiasm,
+and--whatever else was left. Someone even tried to murmur something
+kindly about The Kid. Above all, the Instigator was eulogised, and
+rightly, too, for his genial influence helped everything to go well; no
+one could have grumbled at the little inconveniences which they had had
+to put up with at times, while The Instigator was so cheerful and
+anxious for others' comfort and careless of his own through all. His
+interest in, and enthusiasm for, his Company know no bounds. Get him to
+hold forth, and he will tell you how, in the early days of the Company,
+matters were quite different from what they are to-day. The shares stood
+then at five shillings each, and the bankers refused to allow an
+overdraft of £2,000, and when it became absolutely necessary to have
+money he actually made advances out of his own pocket to supply the
+requisite funds.
+
+Shortly afterwards matters began to improve, and when he visited the
+property in 1900 he was able to send this reassuring message to the
+General Meeting:--"I honestly believe the worst is past, and that in
+future we shall progress."
+
+He always appraises the work of others whether the result of their
+operations is successful or not, and he will appreciate the mental and
+manual exertions expended on the undertaking by the employees of the
+Company at their true worth. All he asks of his colleagues and
+subordinates is that each one shall "play the game" in every sense of
+the word to the best of his ability. He never paints the prospects of a
+beginner in rosy hues; in fact, he has been known to speak of the
+hardships and privations which a young man must be prepared to go
+through on first joining the Company as being comparable to "the life of
+a dog." To-day the men who have been through those first years of
+necessary self-denial and hard work are grateful for the training they
+have received and anxious to work their best for the Company.
+
+For a long while the party sat talking of their experiences on this
+trip, and of the Company and its prospects. The travelling over this
+comparatively unknown land had been a revelation to most; the dormant
+wealth lying in the camp must be enormous, but men, money, and brains
+are needed to exploit it. Unfortunately, it is still difficult to get
+colonists for these more northern districts, but when the railway which
+is contemplated becomes an accomplished fact, as it assuredly must,
+people will be attracted further north, colonisation will be easier, the
+land will yield its hundredfold, and some one will, in time, have
+performed the great deed of "making two blades of grass grow where only
+one grew before." It may seem to those accustomed to the narrower life
+of towns, a lonely, empty life to spend one's years and energies
+improving these wild lands; but assuredly the man who labours here with
+the best that is in him, not only earns a great reward for himself in
+the gradual development and growth of that land, but has deserved well
+of mankind in general, and will, some day, receive his "Well done," than
+which there is no higher praise, as surely as those whose lives have
+been spent in the more public fields of civilisation or in military
+prowess.
+
+For some, obscure reason it is generally supposed that the man who
+spends his life in agricultural pursuits is bound to have his mental
+abilities dulled by the continuous round of duties connected with the
+land and the care of animals. The origin of this idea is difficult to
+imagine, unless it be that agriculture is the oldest and most necessary
+pursuit of mankind; but surely the man who has to keep a perpetual watch
+on wind, weather and workers, animal and vegetable kingdom and natural
+phenomena, and be ready to anticipate any change, besides being
+thoroughly in touch with all the latest improvements, mechanical and
+material, in reference to his calling, and conversant with the ruling
+prices in the best markets, cannot be held to be a man whose perceptions
+are becoming blunted by his business. It is certainly true that there
+are many who do "let things go," but that class is not confined to
+agriculturists alone, and in agriculture, as in all other callings,
+those who "let things slide" very shortly find that most things have
+slid away from them irrevocably. Certainly the Argentine is no place for
+the man disinclined for exertion. She holds rewards, and great rewards;
+but only for the resolute who are prepared to lead a strenuous and
+self-denying life of labour, exposure and fatigue, and who come to her
+determined to win the best from her rich lands, and to take every
+opportunity as it comes in their way for improving their knowledge.
+
+Plans were made for to-morrow's journey; there was talk, if the day was
+fine and the way possible, of going first south-east to the tannin
+factory at La Gallareta, then due north to Las Gamas, but it was feared
+that the recent heavy rains in this district would have made the
+undertaking of the two journeys on one day inadvisable, and the Indian
+guide persuaded the "leaders" that it would be wiser to go straight to
+Las Gamas to-morrow and leave the visit to the factory for Monday. This
+would give Tuesday for Santa Lucia and Wednesday for Vera. Sarnosa and
+Olmos could be visited from one or the other of these two estancias,
+and, leaving Vera on Friday afternoon, San Cristobal would be reached on
+Saturday evening.
+
+As we dispersed in the rain to our various tents, a slight thunder and
+lightning storm commenced, but, notwithstanding this, we were happy in
+the assurance that our troubles from mosquitoes were likely to be less
+virulent to-night, owing to our proximity to the sheepfold of the ranch.
+Therefore, as good disciples of the immortal Pepys, we quote--and with
+appropriate action--"So to bed."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENT.
+
+
+OUT OF WORK.--Advertiser wants situation as general help; might be
+useful in tea-taster's office; hard work not so much an object as high
+wages and comfortable living. Advertiser could take immediate situation.
+No references.--T.K., _Second Coach_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.
+
+
+T.C. writes in answer to the arithmetical problem of yesterday's date,
+"Yes, if A starts with 87 horses, loses 2, and finds 1, he does end the
+journey with 110, for he collects 24 more at the last estancia. Only
+experts can do this; hence your correspondent's failure to find a
+solution."
+
+LOST.--One watch and chain (said to be gold), trinkets attached
+containing several locks of hair and portraits of ten or twelve
+gentlemen. If finder would return portraits and hair, owner would be
+obliged.--T.K.
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 8.
+
+_Saturday, April 2nd, 1910._
+
+THE CIRCULATION OF "THE TACURU" WENT UP LITERALLY BY LEAPS AND BOUNDS
+YESTERDAY MORNING, FAR BEYOND THE EXPECTATIONS EVEN OF THE EDITOR.
+
+
+The morning dawned damp and dreary; rain had fallen steadily all night
+long, and still continues. Neither The Chaperon nor anyone else had an
+opportunity for seeing "the golden exhalations of dawn" this morning.
+To-day's "exhalations" were chiefly those of moisture, and the only gold
+we saw was supplied by the light of the paraffin lamps which The
+Chaperon, always on the look out to anticipate our wishes, provided for
+us to see our way to wash. The water for ablutions was obtained from the
+mud-hole which did duty for a well at the ranch, and its appearance was
+somewhat disconcerting. However, with skill, one could scoop up a little
+of the surface of the water for a splash without disturbing the thick
+stratum of mud at the bottom of the basin; things might have been worse,
+and everyone felt that on such a damp day washing at all was merely an
+æsthetic waste of energy. By the time dressing was accomplished it was
+sufficiently light for the lamps to be dispensed with, and we assembled
+for breakfast in a dull-grey atmosphere. Hot tea, even though half mud,
+was very good. We believe that the leaf of a certain cactus has the
+power of clearing water absolutely; if it is dropped in a vessel of
+water, it and the mud settle at the bottom, leaving the water quite
+clear; but though several varieties of cacti were tried this morning,
+none were successful; apparently the special kind did not grow around
+our camp.
+
+[Illustration: _Water Knee-deep._]
+
+No one seemed much disheartened by the rain; even the peons, though
+already wet through in their scanty garments, were cheerfully smiling as
+usual, with no thought of grumbling. Monte, too, was calmly ready to
+accompany us, despite the bad weather.
+
+Owing either to the skilful manner of tucking in the nets adopted last
+night, or to the neighbourhood of the sheepfold, mosquitoes had not
+troubled us nearly so much as on the previous night; only the continual
+flashes of lightning and the soft rumblings of thunder during the steady
+downpour had been able to disturb our deep slumbers.
+
+As soon as possible the tents were taken down, packing accomplished, and
+a start made. Fortunately the ant-hills were considerably fewer in
+number to-day, but the ground was ankle deep in water everywhere, and
+fallen tree trunks hidden under the, in some places, really deep water,
+formed a considerable danger in our path. However, again owing to the
+skill of our drivers, no accident occurred all through that long drive
+in unceasing rain, which shrouded all but the most immediate view. Of
+course, constant changes of horses were necessary, as, for eight hours
+we drove through water, above and below, to our destination. The
+accomplishment of that drive of his four-in-hand from the absolutely
+unsheltered position on the box was no small feat on the part of The
+Jehu; we all felt an even deeper admiration for his pluck and endurance
+than before, as he steadily pursued his way on that terrible day, when
+his whole body and especially his hands must have been numbed through
+and through with the cold and wet. The Chaperon, too, had an arduous
+day, though his work was not so strenuous as that of The Jehu. At one
+spot, when under trees we made a change of horses, The Chaperon was seen
+to be wading through water, knee deep, as he handed round the only
+refreshments available--ginger-bread, biscuits, beer and gin--to guests
+and peons alike, all drinking gratefully from the same small measure.
+That drive is something to be remembered; it was executed under the most
+trying circumstances with not a single complaint or grumble from anyone,
+but an increased thankfulness on the part of the passengers that they
+were in such good hands during the trip. The land through which we drove
+to-day is covered with trees of various kinds; large forests exist on
+the eastern side of the Calchaqui, bordering the river for its entire
+length; the trees of these forests are chiefly Algarrobo the wood of
+which is not unlike our walnut in appearance, but extremely hard; in
+days to come this timber will be used in great quantities for making
+parquet flooring. It seems almost incredible that the city of Buenos
+Aires should import millions of square metres of ready-made parquet
+flooring when the Argentine produces magnificent timber of far more
+suitable and better wearing quality for the purpose than any used in
+imported parquet. As we have journeyed eastward, trees have become much
+more numerous, and splendid timber is to be seen on every side. Most
+numerous amongst the trees is the Quebracho Colorado, which supplies one
+of the hardest timbers the world produces. The trees have a peculiar
+appearance, for their leaves are quite small and the trunks have a rough
+bark from which often hangs moss-like lichen, of which, by the way,
+cattle are very fond. The photo on the opposite page gives a general
+idea of a tree's appearance.
+
+The wood, which is light in colour when first cut, becomes dark red upon
+being exposed to light and weather, and it is intensely hard.
+
+[Illustration: _Quebracho Colorado Tree._]
+
+The word "quebracho" (pronounced KAYBRATSHO) signifies axe-breaking, and
+even modern tools do not retain their edge long when working on this
+wood.
+
+The wonderful durability of the wood renders it a perfect material for
+railway sleepers, and this has been appreciated by the Government of
+Argentina to such an extent that they have decreed that the laying of
+new railways is to be upon sleepers made of the hard woods of the
+Country.
+
+[Illustration: _Sleepers awaiting Transport at Vera._]
+
+The forests of the Santa Fé Land Company have produced in the last
+twelve years over a million Quebracho Colorado sleepers.
+
+One drawback to the wood is that it has the peculiarity of splitting
+around the heart of the tree. This is caused by the accumulation of
+resin at certain periods, and is probably connected in some way with the
+excessive moisture or dryness of a particular year's growth.
+
+The tree is often attacked by a boring grub, which enters by making a
+very small pin prick opening, and during its existence in the tree grows
+and bores an ever enlarging hole until often it becomes half an inch in
+diameter. It would seem almost incredible that a grub could live either
+on the resins in the tree or be able to bore through what is one of the
+hardest woods in the world.
+
+Of recent years this timber has also been put to another use--that of
+producing tan. When used for this purpose, the tree was cut down, its
+outer sapwood removed, and then taken to the river to be finally shipped
+to the United States of America or to Germany.
+
+It was soon found that the railway and shipping freight charges absorbed
+a considerable amount of the profits to be obtained in making this
+tannin extract abroad, and, therefore, extract factories were erected in
+Argentina. The process of obtaining the extract is very simple; the logs
+are first put through a machine which reduces them to chips, the chips
+are then boiled in water till all soluble matter is extracted from them,
+and the solution obtained is concentrated down to the consistency of
+pitch; in this form, after being dried, it is exported, and is used by
+tanners the world over. The great necessity and essence of success, in
+the present way of working the business, is good water and plenty of it.
+
+We do not know who first noticed the tannin material oozing out of these
+trees, but no doubt attention was called to the fact by pools in the
+neighbourhood of the trees being often red in colour. Undoubtedly the
+Germans first took this business up on a large scale, and to-day they
+hold an enormous quantity of forest lands.
+
+Hitherto the extract has been brought on to the market in a solid state
+very much after the style of Burma cutch. The Santa Fé Land Company have
+recently produced the material in a fine powdered state, absolutely
+pure, and containing a great deal less moisture than any other form of
+extract on the market, and they are about to erect a factory to work
+this process in connection with their saw mills at Vera. This new
+process requires very little water as compared with the old method, and
+can be adopted, in huge areas hitherto unsuitable for the industry.
+
+About mid-day we approached a plaza, or wood deposit, of the La
+Gallareta Factory, situated on the Company's Lands. Rain had been
+falling in torrents for days past, and the tracks (called by courtesy
+"roads") had one and all become deep crevasses of soft mud, loads of
+timber had been left here and there in the wood, just wherever the cart
+conveying it had stuck, and in many places the water was so deep that
+not a vestige of these obstacles could be seen. Our coaches had to be
+driven under (or perhaps we should say "over") such circumstances as
+these for about three miles, and this part of our journey was absolutely
+dangerous; the greatest credit is due to the drivers and those in charge
+of the party that no serious accident occurred, for, about mid-day, the
+way was truly terrible, and one never knew when a tree trunk, small or
+large, lying hidden under the water, would cause a terrific jolt to the
+cart, despite the utmost efforts on the part of our cocheros. However,
+we passed from the extreme danger zone into the comparatively smooth
+waters of the flooded lands. So we drove on, our drivers and guides
+becoming more and more chilled with the rain and cold, but always
+cheerful, till at last wire fencing and other signs of civilisation
+marked our approach to the precincts of Las Gamas. This was indeed a
+welcome sight to the party, for all were beginning to feel the need of
+food and shelter, and though the "passengers" in the coaches were
+comparatively dry, despite the continual downpour, the drivers were wet
+through long ago and the peons had not been dry since dawn.
+
+[Illustration: _Tannin Extract Factory._]
+
+No one was sorry when "The Jehu," to shorten the drive, ordered some of
+the wire fencing to be dropped so that we might proceed in a straight
+line to the house instead of making the considerable detour to the gate.
+It was past three o'clock when, after a side-slip or two, and consequent
+meeting with gate-posts, we drew up in front of the estancia house and
+noticed on the outbuildings a damp flag trying to flap a weary "welcome"
+to the party of Tacuruers. The first thing was to get The Jehu from his
+driving seat and into a warm bath, and the same treatment was meted out
+to The Chaperon, and hot whisky and water for all! Our host and hostess
+gave us such a genial welcome and the big room looked so dry and
+inviting, with a wood fire crackling in the grate, that our troubles,
+which had, during the long hours of to-day's tedious drive, assumed
+really serious proportions, were soon forgotten as we sat down, in an
+incredibly short time, to a hearty meal of roast turkey and mince pies!
+We almost fell to wishing each other a Happy Christmas, and
+instinctively wondered if roast chestnuts would form part of the
+afternoon's programme. Unfortunately, chestnuts of an allegorical kind
+_did_ enter into the proceedings. Meanwhile, the rain continued its
+unceasing downpour. It was some time before the baggage waggons arrived
+on the scene, and, needless to say, they and their contents were very
+damp. But the peons soon had the goods unpacked, and ere long were happy
+and dry in the big galpon round a roaring fire, which they must have
+badly needed. Their behaviour all through this terrible day, sometimes
+under most trying circumstances, had been splendid, and it says a good
+deal for master as well as for man that not once was a sound of
+discontent heard. In fact, the men often suggested themselves little
+things in which they thought they might help the caretakers of the
+party. It was a relief to us all to know that the work of those peons
+had ended for the day with the caring for the horses and unpacking of
+the goods.
+
+Monte still accompanied us, but here he had to be kept under strict
+surveillance, for dogs were numerous on the premises, and several of
+them were not of the kind who brook any encroachment, however harmless,
+on their preserves; so poor Monte was perforce shut up, away from the
+house, where Bear and his companions could not take exception to the
+presence of an interloper. The late afternoon and evening were chiefly
+spent in having warm baths, which were most grateful after the, of
+necessity, somewhat sketchy ablutions of the past three days. Now that
+the safe arrival of the luggage was an accomplished fact, and the
+travellers clothed and fed, there seemed little reason for late hours,
+and it was not long after dinner when the general dispersal took place.
+We only waited to hear a few selections of songs on the beautiful
+gramophone which our host had received a few months ago as a Christmas
+greeting from England. It must be difficult for those at home to
+realise what an immense amount of pleasure a good gramophone can give to
+the dwellers in the far camp lands. This instrument was in constant
+request, and both the machine and records were extraordinarily good.
+Still, even this great attraction did not tempt the party to sit up
+late; everyone was tired and exhausted, and our cocheros, more
+especially the Jehu, must have been worn out with their exertions of the
+day. We can only hope they will suffer no after ill effects from their
+arduous task and severe drenchings.
+
+[Illustration: _Some of the Horses._]
+
+Our horses have been simply wonderful during this trip. We have driven,
+ridden, and brought along nearly 100 animals for 150 miles, and have not
+lost one upon the journey. This speaks volumes for the care and training
+bestowed upon the animals at the head estancia, and we are inclined to
+think that few other places could supply as many animals to do such
+trying work. The fitness of our animals is owing entirely to the
+continual attention and care they receive daily at the estancia.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_We are sorry to be obliged to hold over all correspondence,
+advertisements, etc., to-day, as, doubtless owing to the floods, no
+communications had reached us up to the time of going to press. We hope
+all correspondents will accept our sincere apologies for the unavoidable
+delay in dealing with letters and orders; all despatches shall receive
+our earnest attention as soon as they come to hand._
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 9
+
+_Sunday, April 3rd, 1910._
+
+
+Dawn showed us no respite of the drenching rain; the paths, the garden,
+and the camps were all flooded with the continuous rain of yesterday and
+last night, and still it poured. After disposing of a more substantial
+breakfast than had fallen to the lot of the travellers for some days,
+there seemed little to do save listen to the dulcet strains of the
+gramophone, which proved a welcome diversion. A considerable disturbance
+was caused by a dog fight under the table round which we were sitting;
+whether intentional or not on the part of the animals, the rout of the
+ladies was complete, and the dogs were only separated by the calm
+procedure of some of the men who held them under the water taps until
+their ardour was cooled. Monte was out of all this trouble, for he had
+been consigned to the security of the galpon to avoid trouble concerning
+rights of way which would assuredly have arisen between himself and Bear
+(the big bulldog of the estancia) had they met. Bear amused the company
+by presenting a truly comical sight, some minutes later, when he decided
+to have a drink after his fight; he walked with majestic mien up to the
+water spout, which jutted out from the house a few feet from the ground,
+and, poking out his heavy under-jaw, collected the flow of water in his
+mouth in a most satisfying way, for a few seconds. Of course, The
+Instigator started off pacing and measuring the room's verandah, etc.,
+in order to devise a scheme for the best improvements for the estancia,
+and before long he and The Delineator had made out a plan which would
+drive any member of the R.I.B.A. to desperation, but caused its authors
+enormous joy. The Jehu and The Chaperon were occupied for some time in
+seeing to the comfort of their men and animals, and trying to dry the
+tents, clothes, etc., by the huge fire in the galpon in which the peons
+were housed for the day. We are told that one Tacuruer tried to employ
+the morning remuneratively by opening a temporary barber's shop on the
+verandah, and advertising "hair-cutting and shaving"; possibly he might
+have built up a successful business in time, but unfortunately for him
+his first customer's beard was too unyielding for the ordinary scissors
+and the customer objected to the way in which the horse clippers were
+used on the hirsute growth of his chin, and talked of his treatment
+afterwards in a way that did not inspire confidence in the other
+might-have-been customers, who were observed to slink away one by one
+from the barber's chair as if it were infected. We regret that a
+well-meant enterprise on the part of one of The Tacuru party met with
+such a poor reception.
+
+A gleam of ceasing rain--it was not sunshine--gave courage to some of
+the more energetic members of the party to go forth to inspect the heaps
+of wood about to be made into charcoal in the neighbourhood of the
+estancia, if any could be reached on dry land. For to-morrow the visit
+to the La Gallareta factory will occupy the day, and the Charcoal piles
+are too interesting a sight to be left unvisited now that we are in the
+wood department of the Santa Fé Land Company.
+
+In the northern districts where trees are numerous it is necessary to
+"distroncar" the land before the soil can be brought into condition
+suitable for the plough. In other words all the trees and roots must be
+removed before ploughing operations commence. But the timber so obtained
+is not wasted; the branches and all pieces not big enough to be used for
+sleepers, etc., are cut up into various suitable lengths and piled
+together in such a manner that when finished the heap presents the
+appearance of a huge beehive; the centre of this dome running from the
+apex to the ground is a hollow cylinder; this tube or pipe is filled up
+with the small sticks and twigs from the trees, and when all is in
+readiness the contents of the cylinder are fired from the top, the fire
+slowly burns downwards and sets light to the surrounding logs which in
+their turn smoulder till they become charcoal. But the match is not
+applied until the whole mass of wood has been covered up and plastered
+over with mud, to prevent the entrance of any air. The kiln thus forms
+an enclosed retort, and the wood is carbonised and makes excellent
+charcoal, which eventually finds its way to Buenos Aires and other
+cities, where immense quantities are used for cooking and heating
+purposes. If all goes well, the kiln being well built, and no air
+admitted, some thirty to forty tons of charcoal are produced from one of
+these heaps; not infrequently, however, the crown breaks in; this allows
+the air to enter, the wood is completely burnt, and the labour expended
+on this "horno" is represented by a few cartloads of useless ash. The
+thought of these possible failures was too much for The Instigator; he
+held forth, at length, upon the advisability of bringing a little
+science to bear upon the problem of preventing any waste of the material
+itself or of the by-products. His theory is that to make the best use of
+nature's lavish gifts in the way of wood products, an iron or brick
+still should be erected, on the inside of which the heavy tarry products
+would naturally accumulate, and so find their way to the base of the
+kiln where they could be collected and run out into casks for
+utilisation, whilst the lighter vapours are condensed in the hood of the
+still to be chemically treated later for their highly valuable
+properties, and the charcoal itself would be a more certain production
+from these brick or iron kilns than it is from the present heaps. At
+this point of his lecture the weather became impossible, and when The
+Instigator discovered that he was expatiating to the camp and rain
+alone, he, too, turned to seek the shelter of the estancia house,
+whither his audience had long ago fled. For some time we watched the
+storm as it worked up with intense fury. The lightning as it illuminated
+the whole camp was a wonderful sight, it seemed to flash (and this was
+before the dinner hour) yellow light from the north, red from the south,
+and a bright white light from the east, and was of long continuance. The
+culminating point seemed to come when an appalling crash was heard and
+something appeared to have been struck by lightning. This drove the
+party indoors, though from the time of the crash (we found later that it
+was the telephone which had suffered), the storm abated and only steady
+rain continued. However, nothing more could be done out of doors, and
+everyone was glad of warmth and shelter, while they hoped for a better
+day to-morrow.
+
+Songs occupied the evening, and most of the party retired early to bed.
+
+The Editor regrets that up to the time of going to press to-day, the
+advertisements, correspondence, etc., due for yesterday's issue had not
+reached the office; he fears they may have been lost, and requests that
+all orders may be repeated.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The following advertisements of to-day's dating have been sent in:--
+
+HAIR CUTTING AND SHAVING while you wait.--Lowest prices. Large supply of
+tools, or customers may bring their own instruments if preferred. Good
+style guaranteed. Customers' comfort not so much considered as thorough
+work. Satisfaction certain.--T.C., THE VERANDAH.
+
+WANTED.--Reliable Barber--for clipping advertiser's beard weekly, at own
+residence. May be required to travel. Gentleness much appreciated;
+advertiser would give valuable information on any subject in return for
+Barber's services.--T.I., LAS GAMAS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+WANTED--By several people; good book on "How not to lose at Bridge."
+Anyone possessing a copy of this valuable work for sale, please quote
+lowest price to The Editor, _Tacuru_ Office.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Monday, April 4th, 1910.
+
+The Editor and Staff of "The Tacuru" announce with great regret the
+unavoidable demise of the journal known and respected by all as "The
+Tacuru." This valuable and instructive periodical has become a necessity
+to every happy home. The Editor hoped long to continue his beneficent
+task of bringing a daily joy into the lives of all English-speaking and
+reading people; but, alas, just as he bore "his blushing honours thick
+upon him," there came a flood, an awful flood, and carried away his
+hopes and printing press (we believe some people were drowned, too).
+Therefore we must, perforce, bid our readers "farewell, a long
+farewell." Though not, we hope, for ever. Printing presses are not
+unique, and some day, in the land of civilisation, we hope to be able to
+make our loss good and bring happiness and information once more to
+countless millions. In case any of our readers would like to erect a
+monument of gratitude to "The Tacuru," in memory of the enjoyment, or
+otherwise, this paper has brought into their lives, we would mention
+that the printing-press and a few lives were lost on the way to Olmos.
+We are able to publish a photo of extreme interest, depicting the
+counting of the loss after the deluge. With this, and our deepest
+regrets, we must pause, trusting that some day our great work may be
+renewed under similarly happy circumstances, by the same staff, to whom,
+and to all contributors, willing or unwilling, a thousand thanks.
+
+[Illustration: _"Awful Flood."_]
+
+[Illustration: _On the Way to Olmos._]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Argentina From A British Point Of View, by Various
+
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Argentina From A British Point Of View, by Various
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Argentina From A British Point Of View
+
+Author: Various
+
+Release Date: December 16, 2004 [EBook #14366]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARGENTINA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Susan Skinner and the PG Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+<h1>ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW</h1>
+
+<h4>AND</h4>
+
+<h2>NOTES ON ARGENTINE LIFE.</h2>
+
+<br />
+
+<h4>With Photographs and Diagrams.</h4>
+<br /><br />
+
+<h4>EDITED BY</h4>
+<h3>CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.</h3>
+
+<br /><br />
+<h5>LONDON:</h5>
+<h5>WERTHEIMER, LEA &amp; CO.,</h5>
+<h6>CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, E.C</h6>
+<h5>1910.</h5>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3>DEDICATED</h3>
+
+<h4>To <i>all</i></h4>
+
+<h4>THE SHAREHOLDERS OF THE SANTA F&Eacute; LAND COMPANY, LIMITED,</h4>
+
+<h4><i>who take a real interest in the Company</i>.</h4>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>PREFACE.</h2>
+<br />
+
+<p>In May last I was asked to read, towards the end of the year, a paper on
+Argentina, before the Royal Society of Arts. The task of compiling that
+paper was one of absorbing interest to me; and though I fully realise
+how inadequately I have dealt with so interesting a subject, I venture
+to think that the facts and figures which the paper contains may be of
+interest to some, at any rate, of the Shareholders of the Santa F&eacute; Land
+Company. It is upon this supposition that it is published.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst I was obtaining the latest information for the paper (which was
+read before the Royal Society of Arts on November 30th, 1910), several
+members of the staff of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company aided me by writing
+some useful and interesting notes on subjects connected with Argentina,
+and also giving various experiences which they had undergone whilst
+resident there. I am indebted to the writers for many hints on life in
+Argentina, and as I think that others will find the reading of the notes
+as engaging as I did, they are now reproduced just as I received them,
+and incorporated with my own paper in a book of which they form by no
+means the least interesting part.</p>
+
+<p>The final portion of the book&mdash;Leaves from a journal entitled &quot;The
+Tacuru&quot;&mdash;is written in a lighter vein. It describes a trip through some
+of the Northern lands of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company, and it is included
+because, although frankly humorous, it contains much really useful
+information and many capital illustrations, I should, however, mention
+that this journal was written by members of the expedition, and was
+originally intended solely for their own private edification and
+amusement; therefore all the happier phases of the trip are noted; but I
+can assure my English readers that the trip, well though it was planned,
+was not all luxury.</p>
+
+<p>To the many who have helped me in this work I tender my most sincere
+thanks.</p>
+
+<p>CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"><span>LAWFORD PLACE,<br /></span>
+<span class='i2'>MANNINGTREE, ESSEX,<br /></span>
+<span class='i4'><i>December, 1910</i>.<br /></span></div></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+<ul><li><a href="#ARGENTINA_FROM_A_BRITISH_POINT_OF_VIEW"><b>ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#HISTORY_OF_THE_SANTA_FE_LAND_COMPANY_LIMITED"><b>HISTORY OF THE SANTA F&Eacute; LAND COMPANY, LIMITED.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#THE_VALUE_OF_LAND_IN_ARGENTINA"><b>THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#REMARKS_ON_STORMS_AND_THE_CLIMATE_OF_THE_ARGENTINE"><b>REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#SOME_EXPERIENCES_OF_WORKING_ON_ESTANCIAS"><b>SOME EXPERIENCES OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#THE_SOCIAL_SIDE_OF_CAMP_LIFE"><b>THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#CARNIVAL_IN_THE_ARGENTINE"><b>CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#HORSE_RACING_IN_THE_ARGENTINE"><b>HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#SUNDAYS_IN_CAMP"><b>SUNDAYS IN CAMP.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#THE_SERVANT_PROBLEM_IN_ARGENTINA"><b>THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#POLICE_OF_A_BYGONE_DAY"><b>POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#A_VISIT_TO_THE_NORTHERN_CHACO"><b>A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#WORK_IN_THE_WOODS"><b>WORK IN THE WOODS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#CACHAPES_AND_OTHER_THINGS"><b>CACHAP&Eacute;S, AND OTHER THINGS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#MY_FRIEND_THE_AXEMAN"><b>MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#DUST_AND_OTHER_STORMS"><b>DUST AND OTHER STORMS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#LOCUSTS"><b>LOCUSTS.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#CONSCRIPT_LIFE_IN_THE_ARGENTINE_REPUBLIC"><b>CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#ACROSS_THE_BOLIVIAN_ANDES_IN_1901"><b>ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#PROGRESS_OF_THE_PORT_OF_BUENOS_AIRES"><b>PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES.</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#JUST_MY_LUCK"><b>JUST MY LUCK!</b></a></li>
+<li> <a href="#THE_TACURUquot"><b>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</b></a></li></ul>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS.</h2>
+
+<ul><li><a href="#Cattle_Train_on_Central_Argentine_Railway">CATTLE TRAIN ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY, BRINGING CATTLE TO BARRANCOSA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Loading_Wheat_at_Rosario">LOADING WHEAT AT ROSARIO FROM THE &quot;BARRANCA&quot;</a></li>
+<li><a href="#San_Cristobal_Estancia_House">SAN CRISTOBAL ESTANCIA HOUSE</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Watering_Place_at_Barrancosa">WATERING-PLACE AT BARRANCOSA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Wood_on_the_Company39s_Own_Line_ready_for_Loading">WOOD ON THE COMPANY'S OWN LINE READY FOR LOADING</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Loading_Timber_at_Wayside_Station">LOADING TIMBER AT WAYSIDE STATION</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Wheat_ready_for_Loading_at_Station_on_Central_Argentine_Railway">WHEAT READY FOR LOADING AT STATION ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Maker_of_Land_Values">THE MAKER OF LAND VALUES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Tennis_Party_at_Vera">TENNIS PARTY AT VERA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Carnival_at_Vera">CARNIVAL AT VERA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#A_Day_of_Real_Enjoyment">&quot;A DAY OF REAL ENJOYMENT&quot;</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Square_Quebracho_Logs_worked_by_the_Axeman_showing_Resin_oozing_therefrom">SQUARE QUEBRACHO LOGS WORKED BY THE AXEMAN, SHOWING RESIN OOZING THEREFROM</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Loading_Wheat_at_the_Port_of_Buenos_Aires">LOADING WHEAT AT THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Horses_awaiting_Inspection">HORSES AWAITING INSPECTION</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Stacking_Alfalfa">STACKING ALFALFA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Alfalfa_Elevator_at_Work">ALFALFA ELEVATOR AT WORK</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Green_Fields_of_Alfalfa">THE GREEN FIELDS OF ALFALFA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Herd_of_Cattle">HERD OF CATTLE</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Expanse_of_Alfalfa">EXPANSE OF ALFALFA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Disc_Plough_at_Work">DISC-PLOUGH AT WORK</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Roadmaker_and_Railroad_Builder">ROADMAKER AND RAILROAD BUILDER</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Ploughing_Virgin_Camp">PLOUGHING VIRGIN CAMP</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Hart_Parr_Engine_drawing_Roadmaker">HART-PARR ENGINE, DRAWING ROADMAKER</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Cattle_leaving_Dip">CATTLE LEAVING DIP</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Crossing_the_Salado">CROSSING THE SALADO</a></li>
+<li><a href="#The_Effect_of_a_Long_Drought">THE EFFECT OF A LONG DROUGHT</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Refined_Camps">REFINED CAMPS</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Rich_black_alluvial_Soil">&quot;RICH BLACK ALLUVIAL SOIL&quot;</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Water_Knee_deep">WATER KNEE-DEEP</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Quebracho_Colorado_Tree">QUEBRACHO COLORADO TREE</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Sleepers_awaiting_Transport_at_Vera">SLEEPERS AWAITING TRANSPORT AT VERA</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Tannin_Extract_Factory">TANNIN EXTRACT FACTORY</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Some_of_the_Horses">SOME OF THE HORSES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#Awful_Flood">&quot;AWFUL FLOOD&quot;</a></li>
+<li><a href="#On_the_Way_to_Olmos">ON THE WAY TO OLMOS</a></li></ul>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2>LIST OF DIAGRAMS.</h2>
+
+<ul><li><a href="#DIAGRAM_OF_IMMIGRATION_RETURNS">IMMIGRATION RETURNS</a></li>
+<li><a href="#AGRICULTURAL_EXPORTATION">AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION</a></li>
+<li><a href="#CULTIVATED_AREA">CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES</a></li>
+<li><a href="#DIAGRAM_OF_VALUE_IN_pound_STERLING">VALUE IN &pound; STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF ARGENTINA, 1900-09</a></li></ul>
+
+
+<a name="Page_1"></a>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="ARGENTINA_FROM_A_BRITISH_POINT_OF_VIEW"></a><h2>ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW.</h2>
+<br />
+
+<p>Argentina, which does not profess to be a manufacturing country,
+exported in 1909 material grown on her own lands to the value of
+&pound;79,000,000, and imported goods to the extent of &pound;60,000,000. This fact
+arrests our attention, and forces us to recognise that there is a trade
+balance of nearly 20 millions sterling in her favour, and to realise the
+saving power of the country.</p>
+
+<p>It is not mere curiosity which prompts us to ask: &quot;Are these &pound;79,000,000
+worth of exports of any value to us? Do we consume any of them? Do we
+manufacture any of them? And do we send any of this same stuff back
+again after it has been dealt with by our British artisans?&quot; It would be
+difficult to follow definitely any one article, but upon broad lines the
+questions are simple and can be easily answered. Amongst the
+agricultural exports we find wheat, oats, maize, linseed, and flour. The
+value placed upon these in 1908 amounted to &pound;48,000,000, and England
+pays for and consumes nearly 42 per cent. of these exports. Other goods,
+such as frozen beef, chilled beef, mutton, pork, wool, and articles
+which may be justly grouped as the results of the cattle and sheep
+industry, amounted to no less a figure than &pound;23,000,000. All these
+exports represent foodstuffs or other necessities of life, and are
+consumed by those nations which do not produce enough from their own
+soil to keep their teeming populations. Another export which is worthy
+of particular mention comes from the forests, viz., quebracho, which, in
+the form of logs and extract, was exported in 1908 to the value of
+&pound;1,200,000. The value of material of all sorts sent from England to
+Argentina in 1908 was &pound;16,938,872 (this figure includes such things as
+manufactured woollen goods, leather goods, <a name="Page_2"></a>oils, and paints), therefore
+it is clear that we have, and must continue to take, a practical and
+financial interest in the welfare and prosperity of Argentina.</p>
+
+<p>New countries cannot get on without men willing and ready to exploit
+Nature's gifts, and, naturally, we look to the immigration returns when
+considering Argentina's progress. To give each year's return for the
+last 50 years would be wearisome, but, taking the average figures for
+ten-year periods from 1860 to 1909, we have the following interesting
+table. (The figures represent the balance of those left in the country
+after allowing for emigration):&mdash;</p>
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td colspan='5'>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>Yearly Average.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>From</td><td align='left'>1860</td><td align='left'>to</td><td align='left'>1869 </td><td align='left'>(inclusive)</td><td align='right'>15,044</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1870</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1879</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>29,462</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1880</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1889</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>84,586</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1890</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1899</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>43,618</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1900</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1909</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>100,998</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Sixty-five per cent. of the immigrants are agricultural labourers, who
+soon find work in the country, and again add their quota to the
+increasing quantity and value of materials to be exported. Facing this
+page is a diagram of the Immigration Returns from 1857 to 1909.</p>
+
+<p>Nature has been lavish in her gifts to Argentina, and man has taken
+great advantage of these gifts. My desire now is to show what has been
+done in the way of developing agriculture in this richly-endowed country
+during the last fifty years. One name which should never be forgotten in
+Argentina is that of William Wheelwright, whose entrance into active
+life in Buenos Aires was not particularly dignified; in 1826 he was
+shipwrecked at the mouth of the River Plate, and struggled on
+barefooted, hatless and starving to the small town of Quilmes.</p>
+
+<a name="DIAGRAM_OF_IMMIGRATION_RETURNS"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image01.png" width="325" height="482" alt="DIAGRAM OF IMMIGRATION RETURNS. NOTE:&mdash;IN THE YEARS 1888, 1889 &amp; 1890 THE ARGENTINE GOVERNMENT ASSISTED
+PASSAGES." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>Mr. Wheelwright was an earnest and far-seeing man, and his knowledge of
+railways in the United States helped him to realise their great
+possibilities in Argentina; but, <a name="Page_3"></a>strange to say, upon his return to his
+native land he could not impress any of those men who afterwards became
+such great &quot;Railway Kings&quot; in the U.S.A. Failing to obtain capital for
+Argentine railway development in his own country, Wheelwright came to
+England, and interested Thomas Brassey, whose name was then a household
+word amongst railway pioneers. These two men associated themselves with
+Messrs. Ogilvie &amp; Wythes, forming themselves into the firm of Brassey,
+Ogilvie, Wythes &amp; Wheelwright, whose first work was the building of a
+railway 17,480 kilometres long between Buenos Aires and Quilmes in 1863;
+afterwards they built the line from Rosario to Cordova, which is
+embodied to-day in the Central Argentine Railway. Other railways were
+projected, and this policy of progress and extension of the steel road
+still holds good in Argentina.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1857 saw the first railway built, from Buenos Ayres to Flores,
+5,879 kilometres long; in 1870 there were 457 miles of railroad; in 1880
+the railways had increased their mileage to 1,572; in 1890 Argentina
+possessed 5,895 miles of railway, and in 1900 there were 10,352 miles.</p>
+
+<p>The rapid increase in railway mileage during the last nine years is as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>In</td><td align='left'>1901</td><td align='left'>there</td><td align='left'>were</td><td align='left'>10,565</td><td align='left'>miles</td><td align='left'>of</td><td align='left'>railway.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1902</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>10,868</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1903</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>11,500</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1904</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>12,140</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1905</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>12,370</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1906</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>12,850</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1907</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>13,829</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>14,825</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1909 </td><td align='left'> &quot; </td><td align='left'> &quot;</td><td align='left'> 15,937<a name="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1"><sup>[A]</sup></a></td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> &quot; </td><td align='left'> &quot;</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>12,000 of which are owned by English companies, representing a capital
+investment of &pound;170,000,000.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_4"></a>In other words, for the last forty years Argentina has built railways
+at the rate of over a mile a day, and in 1907, 1908, and 1909 her
+average rate per day was nearly three miles. This means that owing to
+the extension of railways during this last year alone, over a million
+more acres of land could have been given up to the plough if suitable
+for the cultivation of corn.</p>
+
+<p>When William Wheelwright first visited Argentina it was little more than
+an unknown land, whose inhabitants had no ambition, and no desire to
+acquire wealth&mdash;except at the expense of broken heads. There was a
+standard of wealth, but it lay in the number of cattle owned; land was
+of little value, save for feeding cattle, and therefore counted for
+naught, but cattle could be boiled down for tallow; bones and hides were
+also marketable commodities; the man, therefore, who possessed cattle
+possessed wealth.</p>
+
+<p>The opening out of the country by railways soon changed the aspect of
+affairs. The man who possessed cattle was no longer considered the rich
+man; it was he who owned leagues of land upon which wheat could be grown
+who became the potentially rich man; he, by cutting up his land and
+renting it to the immigrants, who were beginning to flock in in an
+endless stream to the country, found that riches were being accumulated
+for him without much exertion on his part. He took a risk inasmuch as he
+received payment in kind only. Therefore, when the immigrants did well,
+so did he, and as many thousands of immigrants have become rich, it
+follows that the land proprietors have become immensely so. It was the
+railways which created this possibility, and endowed the country by
+rendering it practicable to grow corn where cattle only existed before,
+but many Argentines to-day forget what they owe to the railway pioneers;
+it is the railways, and the railways only, which render the splendid and
+yearly increasing exports possible.</p><a name="Page_5"></a>
+
+<p>In 1858 cattle formed 25 per cent. of the total wealth of Argentina, but
+in 1885 cattle only represented 18 per cent. of the total wealth,
+railways having made it possible during those thirty years to utilise
+lands for other purposes than cattle-feeding. Let it be clearly
+understood, the total value of cattle had not decreased; far from that,
+the cattle had increased in value during the above period to the extent
+of &pound;48,000,000, and to-day cattle, sheep, horses, mules, pigs, goats and
+asses represent a value of nearly &pound;130,000,000. The following table
+shows how great the improvement has been in Argentine animals:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td colspan='5'>&nbsp;</td><td align="center" >Per Head.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Cattle in</td><td align='left'>1885</td><td align='left'>were valued</td><td align='left'>at an</td><td align='left'>average of</td><td align='right'>$13</td><td align='right'><a name="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2"><sup>[B]</sup></a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>32</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sheep in</td><td align='left'>1885</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>4</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Horses in</td><td align='left'>1885</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>25</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Notwithstanding these increased valuations per head, and the larger
+number of animals in the country, the value created by man's labour far
+outweighs the increased value of mere breeding animals.</p>
+
+<p>Next to the railways the improvements in shipping have helped the
+development of Argentina; the shipping trade of Buenos Aires has
+increased at the rate of one million tons per annum for the past few
+years, and the entries into the port form an interesting and instructive
+table:</p>
+
+<p>The following statement gives the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires from 1880 to 1909, and will more clearly show the
+increase and advance made in the last thirty years. These figures
+<a name="Page_6"></a>include both steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well as foreign
+trade:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>Tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1880</td><td align='right'>644,750</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1881</td><td align='right'>827,072</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1882</td><td align='right'>995,597</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1883</td><td align='right'>1,207,321</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1884</td><td align='right'>1,782,382</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1885</td><td align='right'>2,200,779</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1886</td><td align='right'>2,408,323</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1887</td><td align='right'>3,369,057</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1888</td><td align='right'>3,396,212</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1889</td><td align='right'>3,804,037</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1890</td><td align='right'>4,507,096</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1891</td><td align='right'>4,546,729</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1892</td><td align='right'>5,475,942</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1893</td><td align='right'>6,177,818</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1894</td><td align='right'>6,686,123</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1895</td><td align='right'>6,894,834</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1896</td><td align='right'>6,115,547</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1897</td><td align='right'>7,365,547</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1898</td><td align='right'>8,051,045</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1899</td><td align='right'>8,741,934</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1900</td><td align='right'>8,047,010</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1901</td><td align='right'>8,661,300</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1902</td><td align='right'>8,902,605</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1903</td><td align='right'>10,269,298</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1904</td><td align='right'>10,424,615</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1905</td><td align='right'>11,467,954</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1906</td><td align='right'>12,448,219</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1907</td><td align='right'>13,335,733</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1908</td><td align='right'>15,465,417</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1909</td><td align='right'>16,993,973</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>In 1897, out of the total number of steamers that entered Buenos Aires,
+viz., 901, with a tonnage of 2,342,391; 519, with a tonnage of
+1,327,571, were British. Taking the year 1909 we find that 2,008
+steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the port of Buenos Aires from
+foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542, and 1,978 steamers and 129
+sailing-vessels left the port for foreign shores with a tonnage of
+5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead with 2,242 steamers and 37
+sailing-vessels, or say 53&frac12; per cent. of the total. Germany comes
+next with 456 steamers and 2 sailing-vessels, or say 10&frac34; per cent, of
+the total. Italy with 307 steamers and 67 sailing-vessels is next, and
+then France with 264 steamers. The total number of steamers that entered
+and left the port from local and foreign ports is 13,485, with a tonnage
+of 14,481,526, and 20,264 sailing-vessels with 2,512,447 tons, which
+make up the amount of 16,993,973 tons, as shown above.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1884 the experiment of freezing beef, killed in Buenos
+Aires, and shipping it to Europe was first tried. That was successful,
+but an immense improvement was made when the process of chilling became
+the common <a name="Page_7"></a>means by which meat could be exported. The frozen beef trade
+in Argentina has had a wonderful development; it commenced in 1884, and
+the export of chilled meat has progressed steadily at the rate of 25,000
+beeves yearly, until, in 1908, it reached the enormous quantity of
+573,946 beeves, or 180,000 tons. Frozen mutton has remained
+comparatively steady, and has only increased by 38,000 tons in
+twenty-two years, or from 2,000,000 sheep frozen in 1886 to 3,297,667 in
+1908, whilst &quot;jerked beef,&quot; which was mostly sent to Cuba and Brazil,
+has fallen from 50,000 tons per annum to 6,651 tons. The value of frozen
+and preserved meats exported in 1908 was &pound;5,233,948.</p>
+
+<p>The value of live-stock in Argentina in 1908 was made up as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Cattle</td><td align='right'>&pound;82,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sheep</td><td align='right'>25,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Horses</td><td align='right'>18,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mules</td><td align='right'>2,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Pigs</td><td align='right'>1,368,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Goats and Asses</td><td align='right'>1,000,000</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>A few years ago it was common on an estancia feeding 50,000 or 60,000
+cattle to find the household using canned Swiss milk. To-day 425,000
+litres of milk are brought into the city of Buenos Aires each day for
+consumption, and no less than two tons of butter, one ton of cream, and
+three tons of cheese are used there daily. Argentina also exports
+butter. This trade has sprung up entirely within the last fourteen
+years, and in 1908 she exported 3,549 tons of butter, the value of which
+was &pound;283,973.</p>
+
+<p>Until 1876 Argentina imported wheat for home consumption; in that year,
+when for many years past agricultural labourers had been arriving at an
+average of 25,000 per annum, she began to export wheat with a modest
+shipment of 5,000 tons. Thirty years later the export had <a name="Page_8"></a>mounted up to
+2,247,988 tons, and in 1908 the wheat exported amounted to 3,636,293
+tons, and was valued at &pound;25,768,520. Agricultural colonies had sprung up
+everywhere, and cattle became of second-rate importance; to-day the
+value of the exports of corn, which term includes wheat, barley, maize,
+oats, etc., is more than double that of cattle and cattle products. It
+is interesting to follow the evolution wrought by labour, intelligence,
+and capital in the prairie lands of Argentina. First, let us note the
+developments on those wonderful tracts of splendid prairie lands lying
+between the River Plate and the Andes: fifty years ago these lands were
+of little account, and only a few cattle were to be found roaming about
+them, but upon the advance of the railway they came under the plough,
+and, without much attention or care, produced wheat and maize. After a
+time improvements in the method of cultivation produced a better return,
+and to-day a great deal of attention is paid to the preparing of the
+land, and thought and care are given to the seed time, the growing, and
+the harvest. When it is found desirable to rest the land after crops of
+wheat and maize, etc., alfalfa is grown thereon. Alfalfa is one of the
+clover tribe, and has the peculiar property of attaching to itself those
+micro-organisms which are able to fix the nitrogen in the air and render
+it available for plant food. Every colonist knows the value of alfalfa
+for feeding his animals, but it is not every colonist who knows why this
+plant occupies such a high place amongst feeding stuffs. Alfalfa is
+easily grown, very strong when established, and, provided its roots can
+get to water, will go on growing for years. The <i>raison d'&ecirc;tre</i> for
+growing alfalfa is for the feeding of cattle and preparing them for
+market, and for this purpose a league of alfalfa (6,177 acres metric
+measurement) will carry on an average 3,500 head. When grown for dry
+fodder it produces three or four crops per annum and a fair <a name="Page_9"></a>yield is
+from 6 to 8 tons per acre of dry alfalfa for each year. A ton of such
+hay is worth about $20 to $30, and after deducting expenses there is a
+clear return of about $14 per acre.</p>
+
+<p>The figures supplied by one large company are interesting; they show
+that, on an average, cattle, when placed upon alfalfa lands, improve in
+value at the rate of $2.00 per head per month, so it is easy to place a
+value on its feeding properties. Thus, we will take a camp under alfalfa
+capable of carrying 10,000 head of cattle all the year round, where as
+the fattened animals are sold off an equal number is bought to replace
+them. Such a camp would bring in a clear profit of $200,000 per annum,
+and the property should be worth &pound;175,000 sterling. An animal that has
+been kept all its life on rough camp, and, when too old for breeding, is
+placed for the first time on alfalfa lands, fattens extremely quickly,
+and the meat is tender and in quality compares favourably with any other
+beef. No business in Argentina of the same importance has shown such
+good returns as cattle breeding, and these results have been chiefly
+brought about by the introduction of alfalfa, and a knowledge of the
+life history of alfalfa is of the greatest importance to the cattle
+farmer. All cereal crops take from the soil mineral matter and nitrogen.
+Therefore, after continuous cropping the land becomes exhausted and
+generally poorer; experience has taught us that rotation of crops is a
+necessity to alleviate the strain on the soil, and such an axiom has
+this become that in many cases English landlords insist that their
+leases shall contain a clause binding the tenants to grow certain stated
+crops in rotation.</p>
+
+<p>This system is known in England as the four-course shift. Knowledge
+gained by successive generations of observant farmers has given us the
+key to what Nature had <a name="Page_10"></a>hitherto kept to herself, and to-day we know why
+the plan adopted by our forefathers was right, and why the rotation of
+crops was, and is, a necessity. Men of science are devoting their lives
+to the systematic study of Nature's hidden secrets, and by means of
+Agricultural Colleges, as well as private individual research, these
+discoveries are being given to mankind, and long before the soils of
+Argentina show any serious loss of nitrogen from continuous cropping,
+science will probably have established means of applying in a practical
+manner those methods already known of propagating the
+nitrogen-collecting bacteria which thrive on alfalfa, clover, peas, soya
+beans, and other leguminous plants. Almost every country is now devoting
+time, money, and energy to agricultural research work. In 1908 the
+Agricultural College at Ontario prepared no less than 474 packages of
+Legume Bacteria, and in 309 cases beneficial results followed from the
+application thereof to the soil; in 165 cases no improvements in the
+crops were noticed, this may, however, have been due to the want of
+knowledge of how to manipulate the bacteria, or to lack of experience in
+noting effects scientifically, but in any case the experiment must be
+considered successful when the results obtained were satisfactory in no
+less than 65 per cent. of the trials. No greater factor exists than the
+microscope in opening up and hunting out the secrets concealed in the
+very soil we are standing on.</p>
+
+<p>If soils were composed of nothing but pure silica sand, nothing would
+ever grow; but in Nature we find that soils contain all sorts of mineral
+matter, and chief amongst these is lime.</p>
+
+<p>Alfalfa thrives on land which contains lime, and gives but poor results
+where this ingredient is deficient. The explanation is simple. There is
+a community of interest between the very low microscopic animal life,
+known as <a name="Page_11"></a>bacteria, and plant life generally. In every ounce of soil
+there are millions of these living germs which have their allotted work
+to do, and they thrive best in soils containing lime.</p>
+
+<p>If one digs up with great care a root of alfalfa (it need not be an old
+plant, the youngest plant will show the same peculiarity), and care is
+taken in exposing the root (perhaps the best method is the washing away
+of the surrounding earth by water), some small nodules attached to the
+fine, hair-like roots are easily distinguished by the naked eye, and
+these nodules are the home of a teeming, microscopical, industrious
+population, who perform their allotted work with the silent, persistent
+energy so often displayed in Nature. Men of science have been able to
+identify at least three classes of these bacteria, and to ascertain the
+work accomplished by each. The reason for their existence would seem to
+be that one class is able to convert the nitrogen in the air into
+ammonia, whilst others work it into nitrite, and the third class so
+manipulate it as to form a nitrate which is capable of being used for
+plant food.</p>
+
+<p>Now, although one ton of alfalfa removes from the soil 50 lb. of
+nitrogen, yet that crop leaves the soil richer in nitrogen, because the
+alfalfa has encouraged the multiplication of those factories which
+convert some of the thousands of tons of nitrogen floating above the
+earth into substance suitable for food for plant life. As a dry fodder
+for cattle three tons of alfalfa contains as much nutrition as two tons
+of wheat.</p>
+
+<p>The cost of growing alfalfa greatly depends upon the situation of the
+land to be dealt with; also upon whether labour is plentiful or not;
+but, in order to give some idea of the advantage of growing this cattle
+food, we will imagine the intrinsic value of the undeveloped land to be
+&pound;4,000, upon which, under existing conditions, it would be <a name="Page_12"></a>possible to
+keep 1,000 head of animals, whereas if this same land were under alfalfa
+3,000 to 3,500 animals would be fattened thereon, and the land would
+have increased in value to &pound;20,000 or &pound;30,000.</p>
+
+<p>Now, if the undeveloped land is to be improved, it becomes necessary
+either to work it yourself, with your own men, in which case you must
+provide ploughs, horses, bullocks, etc., or to carry out the plan
+usually adopted, that of letting the land to colonists who have had some
+experience in this class of work. Usually a colonist will undertake to
+cultivate from 500 to 600 acres, and agrees to pay to the landowner
+anything from 10 per cent. to 30 per cent. of his crops according to the
+distance of the land from the railway. The colonist brings his
+agricultural tackle along with him, and establishes his house (usually a
+most primitive affair), digs his well, and then proceeds to plough. In
+this work the whole family joins; the father leads the way, followed by
+the eldest child, and all the others in rotation, with the wife bringing
+up the rear; she keeps a maternal eye upon the little mite, who with
+great gusto and terrific yells manages somehow to cling to the plough
+and to do his or her share with the rest. Is it to be wondered at that
+work progresses fast under these conditions? There is but one idea
+prevalent in the family, namely, that time and opportunity are with
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The first crop grown on newly-broken ground is usually maize; the second
+year's crop is linseed, and perhaps a third year's crop&mdash;probably
+wheat&mdash;is grown by the colonist before the land is handed back to the
+owner ready to be put down in alfalfa. The colonist's cultivation of the
+land will have effectually killed off the natural rough grasses which
+would otherwise grow up and choke the alfalfa. Sometimes the alfalfa is
+sown with the colonist's last crop, and in such cases the landowner
+finds the alfalfa <a name="Page_13"></a>seed, and during the sowing of this crop it is very
+advisable that either he or his agent should be in constant attendance,
+because the after results greatly depend upon the care with which the
+seeding has been done. When the colonist's contract is completed he
+moves on to another part, and the owner, who has year by year received a
+percentage of the crops, takes back his land. Considerable outlay has
+now to be made in fences, wells, and buildings; the more there are of
+these the better, the land will carry a larger head of cattle and the
+control of them is easy when the camp has been properly divided.</p>
+
+<p>The colonists are generally Italians. They are an industrious and kindly
+people, hardy and quiet, well content with their surroundings, careful
+and frugal in their living, and many thousands could go back to their
+own country with wealth which has been acquired by constant and
+assiduous attention to the economies of life.</p>
+
+<p>It has often been said that an Englishman will starve where an Italian
+will thrive, and in some respects this is true; but it would be better
+expressed if it were stated that an Italian can adapt himself to
+circumstances better than an Englishman. At the same time, I doubt if an
+Italian would come off best were the two placed on a desert island where
+instantaneous action, grit, and endurance were called for.</p>
+
+<p>Many things are said of an Englishman, and none fits his character
+better than that which gives him the privilege of &quot;grumbling,&quot; and this
+characteristic becomes more marked when he is able to grumble with one
+of his own kith and kin. I have heard Argentines praise Englishmen, who,
+they say, manage their estancias far and away beyond all others, but at
+the same time they have told me that they would never allow two
+Englishmen on their place at once.</p>
+
+<p>It has been said that many of the immigrants do not intend to settle in
+the country. Probably this idea has <a name="Page_14"></a>gained ground on account of the
+large numbers of the labouring population, who are attracted to
+Argentina by the high wages ruling during the harvest time, and then
+find it pays them to go home and secure the European harvest, but
+generally these men come out again to stay. They have acquired a
+knowledge of the country, and often enough have also acquired an
+interest in some land, and they return, bringing their families, to
+adopt Argentina as their home&mdash;for a period at least.</p>
+
+<p>A glance at the statistics prepared by the authorities in Buenos Aires
+shows that during the last fifty-two years 4,250,980 persons entered as
+immigrants, and out of this number only 1,690,783 returned, leaving in
+the country 2,560,197 individuals, or an average of 50,000 workers per
+annum. These figures have become even more marked of recent years.
+Taking the last five years, the country has received on an average
+249,000 immigrants per annum; of these, 103,000 went back. In other
+words, 727,670 have made their homes within the borders of Argentina
+during the past five years, and of these at least 500,000 were
+agriculturists.</p>
+
+<p>It is not to be wondered at, then, that the exports, chiefly made up of
+agricultural produce, have shown extraordinary progress. Facing this
+page is a diagram showing the agricultural exportation from 1900 to
+1908.</p>
+
+
+<a name="AGRICULTURAL_EXPORTATION"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image02.png" width="319" height="464" alt="AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION INCLUDING WHEAT, LINSEED, OATS,
+MAIZE, ETC." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<a name="CULTIVATED_AREA"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image03.png" width="325" height="456" alt="CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES. (1 HECTARE = 2.471 ACRES)" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>Nothing can be more eloquent than the figures shown in this diagram.
+This remarkable progress, almost steady in its upward march, is not in
+one direction only. Argentina is an ideal country for agriculturists,
+and in every branch of that industry progress has been made. Greater
+care is being taken to-day in working up the by-products of the cattle
+business. More varied crops are being grown, and vegetable by-products
+are being economically looked after. The forests of Argentina are also
+being worked for the benefit <a name="Page_15"></a>of mankind. The Quebracho Colorado tree
+forms a very important item of export. It is sent out of the country
+either in the form of logs, of which no less than 254,571 tons were
+exported in 1908, or in the form of an extract for tanning purposes;
+48,162 tons of this extract were made and exported in 1908, and a small
+quantity of the wood was exported in the shape of sawdust. The total
+value of Quebracho Colorado exported in various forms in that year was,
+as already stated, &pound;1,200,000. This means that the Quebracho forests are
+being depleted at the rate of half a million tons per annum for export
+purposes alone, in addition to the enormous quantities used for
+sleepers, etc., in the country.</p>
+
+<p>The area in acres under cultivation for the year 1908 was 46,174,250, an
+increase of 265 per cent, on the land under cultivation in the year
+1895.</p>
+
+<p>The diagram facing this page shows the area in hectares cultivated from
+1897 to 1908:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>WHEAT&mdash;The area under cultivation for wheat shows an increase of 89 per
+cent, in ten years from&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='right'>8,000,000</td><td align='left'>acres</td><td align='left'>in</td><td align='left'>cultivation</td><td align='left'>in</td><td align='left'>1898, to</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>15,157,750</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>LINSEED&mdash;shows an increase of 361 per cent, from&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='right'>831,972</td><td align='left'>acres</td><td align='left'>in</td><td align='left'>cultivation</td><td align='left'>in</td><td align='left'>1898, to</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>3,835,750 </td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>1908</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>MAIZE&mdash;increased by 250 per cent., and other crops, including Oats, 300
+per cent. in the same period.</p>
+
+<p>The United Kingdom purchased from Argentina and retained for its own use
+(in round figures) during the year 1908&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>WHEAT</td><td align='left'>to the</td><td align='left'>value of</td><td align='right'>&pound;13,000,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>MAIZE</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>5,600,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>FROZEN MEAT</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>9,300,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right' colspan='3'>Making a total of</td><td align='right'> &pound;27,900,000</td></tr></table>
+
+<a name="Page_16"></a>
+
+<p>Indeed, we buy from Argentina nearly 25 per cent. of our total food
+purchased abroad, and she supplies nearly 29 per cent. of our corn and
+grain requirements. These figures again clearly demonstrate that we have
+a vital interest in the well-being of our friends across the sea.</p>
+
+<p>In every direction Argentina has progressed, and judging from the past
+we may look with confidence to the future; the total area of the
+Republic is 776,064,000 acres, and certainly it is within the bounds of
+reasonable forecast to consider that 100,000,000 acres of this land will
+be, when opened up by railways, and other facilities, available for
+corn-growing. To-day only one-fifth of this available area is being
+cultivated, and another 43,000,000 acres are being utilised for feeding
+purposes; thus, only 63,000,000 out of 776,000,000 acres are being
+occupied. The chief reason why more is not utilised is because there is
+not sufficient labour available.</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Argentina</td><td align='center'>has</td><td align='center'>5</td><td align='center'>inhabitants</td><td align='center'>per square mile.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Russia</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>18</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Canada, Newfoundland, etc.</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>1&frac12;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Australia</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>1&#8531;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>U. Kingdom</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>364</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Belgium</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>625</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Germany</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>290</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Not only is there an enormous tract of land lying dormant, but the
+productive power of land now under cultivation may be vastly increased
+if farmers will devote their attention to improving the conditions of
+cultivation. 11.3 bushels of wheat per acre is not high-class farming,
+yet this is the average production for Argentina. Manitoba in 1908
+produced 13&frac12; bushels per acre, Saskatchewan, 17 bushels. In the
+fourteenth century England only produced 10 bushels per acre, but we
+have improved this yield to 30 bushels, while Roumania has increased her
+yield from<a name="Page_17"></a> 15 bushels per acre in 1890, to 23 bushels in 1908. France
+has increased her yield from 17 bushels in 1884, to 20 bushels in 1908.
+Germany has increased her yield per acre from 20 bushels in 1899, to 30
+bushels in 1908. So that we may not only look forward to a greater area
+being placed under cultivation, but we may reasonably expect heavier
+crops, if land proprietors will bring science to bear on their work of
+development. Indeed, with land rising in price, with an increasing
+influx of immigrants, and with more intelligent cultivation of the soil,
+the land must of necessity give a far larger yield than it has done
+heretofore.</p>
+
+<p>The following tables, taken from the Board of Trade returns, show from
+whence England draws some of her supplies. They also show how
+prominently Argentina figures as a food producer. The first table
+includes corn and meat; the second gives corn alone, and the third meat
+alone:&mdash;</p>
+
+<h5>FOOD IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE
+UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.</h5>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0"
+summary=""> <tr><td align='left'>CORN (including wheat, barley, oats,
+rye, buckwheat, peas, beans, maize, wheatmeal, flour, oatmeal, and
+offals)</td><td align='right'>&pound;71,103,487</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>MEAT, fresh and frozen (including animals for food)</td><td align='right'>48,704,613</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Total</td><td align='left'>&pound;119,808,100</td></tr> </table>
+
+
+
+<p>Of this&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>Per Cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Argentina supplied</td><td align='right'>29,569,773 or</td><td align='right'>24.68</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>U.S.A. supplied</td><td align='right'>38,229,135 or</td><td align='right'>31.90</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Russia supplied</td><td align='right'>7,394,607 or</td><td align='right'>6.18</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Canada supplied</td><td align='right'>11,907,203 or</td><td align='right'>9.94</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Australia (including Tasmania) supplied</td><td align='right'>4,520,244 or</td><td align='right'>3.77</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Other Colonies and Foreign Countries supplied</td><td align='right'>28,187,138 or</td><td align='right'>23.53</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>&pound;119,808,100 or</td><td align='right'>100.00</td></tr></table>
+
+
+
+<h5>CORN IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.</h5>
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>Argentina.</td><td align='right'>U.S.A.</td><td align='right'>Russia.</td><td align='right'>Canada.</td><td align='right'>Australia (including Tasmania).</td>
+<td align='right'>Other Colonies and Foreign Countries.</td><td align='right'>Total.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Wheat</td><td align='right'>13,096,812</td><td align='right'>10,779,221</td><td align='right'>2,286,180</td><td align='right'>6,335,329</td><td align='right'>2,402,988</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Barley</td><td align='right'>22,943</td><td align='right'>733,446</td><td align='right'>2,622,005</td><td align='right'>205,697</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Oats</td><td align='right'>1,463,368</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>1,144,387</td><td align='right'>6,441</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Rye</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>129,691</td><td align='right'>93,066</td><td align='right'>49,009</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Buckwheat</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>6,677</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Peas</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>38,545</td><td align='right'>42,279</td><td align='right'>105,495</td><td align='right'>2,345</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Beans (not fresh, other than Haricot Beans)</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>15,094</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Maize</td><td align='right'>5,603,463</td><td align='right'>2,023,576</td><td align='right'>1,107,858</td><td align='right'>44,822</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Wheatmeal</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>and Flour</td><td align='right'>50,597</td><td align='right'>5,407,119</td><td align='right'>80</td><td align='right'>809,479</td><td align='right'>119,440</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Oatmeal and</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Rolled Oats</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>183,334</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>207,516</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Farinaceous substances (except Starch, Farina, Dextrine, and Potato Flour)</td>
+<td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>99,112</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>59,302</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Bran and Pollard</td><td align='right'>11,932</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Sharps and Middlings</td><td align='right'>35,113</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Maize Meal</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='right'>129,543</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td><td align='center'>&mdash;</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>&pound;</td><td align='right'> 20,284,228</td><td align='right'>19,523,587</td><td align='right'>7,317,626</td><td align='right'>7,823,090</td><td align='right'>2,524,773</td><td align='right'>13,630,183<a name="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3"><sup>[C]</sup></a> </td><td align='right'>71,103,487</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Percentage</td><td align='right'>28.53%</td><td align='right'>27.46%</td><td align='right'>10.29%</td><td align='right'>11.00%</td><td align='right'>3.56%</td><td align='right'>19.16%</td><td align='right'>= 100%</td></tr></table>
+
+
+
+<a name="Page_19"></a>
+<h5>MEAT, including animals for food, and fresh, chilled, frozen and tinned,
+imported into and retained by the United Kingdom in 1908:</h5>
+
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center' colspan='2'>Per Cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Argentina</td><td align='right'>supplied</td><td align='right'>9,285,545</td><td align='right'>or</td><td align='right'>19.07</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>U.S.A.</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>18,705,548</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>38.41</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Russia</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>76,981</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>0.16</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Canada</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>4,084,113</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>8.38</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Australia (including Tasmania)</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>1,995,471</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>4.10</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>Other Colonies and Foreign Countries<a name="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_D_4"><sup>[D]</sup></a></td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>14,556,955</td><td align='right'>&quot;</td><td align='right'>29.88</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'>48,704,613</td><td align='right'> &quot;</td><td align='right'>100.00</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<a name="Page_20"></a>
+
+<p>The lesson shown here is one worthy of attention. We see that Argentina
+supplies England with one-fourth of her imported food, and U.S.A.
+supplies nearly one-third. Therefore it behoves both England and
+Argentina to see that America does not so manipulate things that she
+acquires the control over our meat and food supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Argentine authorities should not only exercise the law sanctioned
+February 4th, 1907, concerning the inspection of factories, but they
+should enforce greater care in seeing that all Argentine saladeros and
+packing-houses are manipulated with intense care, and cleanliness should
+be insisted upon; it would be a bad day for Argentina should ever such
+an outcry be raised against her saladeros as that which a few years ago
+was directed against the North American packing houses and for a time
+ruined the canning industry of the United States, and yet we find
+American methods being introduced into Argentina without let or
+hindrance. If our soldiers and sailors are to be fed upon canned meats,
+let those who are responsible for purchasing the food, at least see that
+the food is prepared under healthy and sanitary conditions.</p>
+
+<p>The corn-growing industry of the Argentine Republic is an intensely
+interesting subject. Before railways and steamships brought the foreign
+producer into close competition with our own farmers, Argentina did not
+produce enough grain to supply her home consumption, and cattle were
+bred only for their hides, tallow and bones. In the course of time, when
+steamers superseded sailing-ships <a name="Page_21"></a>and the world's carrying capacity
+thus became enormously increased, Argentina saw her opportunity of
+becoming a keen competitor in the food market. Corn-growing became a
+highly remunerative business, although much still remains to be learned
+concerning the handling of wheat. Both in the States and Canada grain is
+handled in a cheaper and more expeditious manner than in Argentina. An
+enormous amount of grain is dealt with in the Wheat Exchange of
+Winnipeg, but a further big impetus will be given to this industry when
+the wheat-fields of Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba are connected
+with a deep-sea port on Hudson Bay; this will be an accomplished fact in
+1915, and as this route means a thousand miles less haulage by land, and
+eight hundred less by sea to the chief European ports than by any
+existing route, it is bound to become the popular one; the chief factor,
+however, in making it a useful wheat outlet is the established fact that
+Hudson Bay, although many miles north of Lake Superior, remains free
+from ice for a period of one month after Lake Superior is tightly frozen
+up.</p>
+
+<p>Argentina may look forward to keen competition with Canada and Siberia
+for many years to come; on the other hand, the U.S.A. will steadily show
+a smaller quantity of wheat available for exportation, and the following
+table throws some light upon the wheat position:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Argentina and Uruguay have increased
+the area of their wheat-growing</td></tr><tr><td align='left'>
+land brought under the plough in
+the last ten years by</td><td align='left'>124 per cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Canada in the last ten years by</td><td align='left'>120 per cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Russia in the last ten years by</td><td align='left'>27 per cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>United States in the last ten years by</td><td align='left'>14 per cent.</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>No country in the world has shown such wonderful capabilities for
+growing linseed as the Argentine, and her <a name="Page_22"></a>average production for the
+following five-year periods show this expansion:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center'>Years.</td><td align='left'>Production in Tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1894-1898</td><td align='center'>193,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1899-1903</td><td align='center'>382,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1904-1908</td><td align='center'>839,000</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>In ten years she increased her production by 335 per cent. In the same
+period India increased her production by 3.8 per cent., and North
+America by 105 per cent., whilst Russia was unable to keep up her
+supply.</p>
+
+<p>The world's total linseed production for 1908 was made up as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Argentina</td><td align='left'>produced </td><td align='left'>1,101,000 tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>North America</td><td align='left'>produced</td><td align='left'>694,000 tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Russia</td><td align='left'>produced</td><td align='left'>470,000 tons.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>India</td><td align='left'>produced</td><td align='left'>360,000 tons.</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Here again we find Argentina leading. Moreover, she exported nearly the
+whole of her production, whilst North America, Russia, and India
+exported less than half a million tons between them.</p>
+
+<p>It is more than probable that by 1920 Argentina will be able to export,
+as the result of agricultural work, more than &pound;100,000,000 worth of
+produce per annum. It is interesting to note that, as the present
+figures reveal, allowing for a population of 6,500,000 and an
+agricultural produce export of &pound;48,335,432, each individual in Argentina
+has sent abroad, after producing enough from the land to keep himself,
+goods to the value of nearly &pound;8.</p>
+
+<p>The diagram facing this page shows what has been accomplished by
+Argentina in the last ten years.</p>
+
+<a name="DIAGRAM_OF_VALUE_IN_pound_STERLING"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image04.png" width="321" height="471" alt="DIAGRAM OF VALUE IN &pound; STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF
+ARGENTINA 1900-1909." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>In actual money value the exportation of wheat, <a name="Page_23"></a>linseed, oats, maize,
+other grain, flour, bran, and middlings is, in round figures, as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center'>1900</td><td align='center'>&pound;15,485,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1901</td><td align='center'>14,319,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1902</td><td align='center'>13,634,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1903</td><td align='center'>21,050,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1904</td><td align='center'>30,065,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1905</td><td align='center'>34,047,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1906</td><td align='center'>31,530,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1907</td><td align='center'>32,818,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1908</td><td align='center'>48,335,000</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>1909</td><td align='center'>46,100,000</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><b>CATTLE.</b></p>
+
+<p>The value derived from the cattle industry and its allied produce is of
+great importance to the Argentine Republic. The exports from this
+industry may be divided into four heads, namely:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>LIVE ANIMALS;</p>
+
+<p>RAW PRODUCTS;</p>
+
+<p>MANUFACTURED OR PARTLY MANUFACTURED MATERIAL AND BY-PRODUCTS.</p>
+
+<p>Since the closing of English ports in 1901 to the importation of live
+cattle from Argentina, the trade in the export of live stock has fallen
+off considerably; the total value did not in 1908 amount to more than
+&pound;568,966; Belgium took 65,224 sheep, Chili took 45,114 cattle and 14,394
+sheep, Bolivia took 3,383 head of cattle and 10,676 sheep, and 16,000
+asses and mules, while horses were imported into England, Africa,
+Portugal, Brazil, Uruguay, Chili, Bolivia, and Paraguay.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_24"></a>Exports of raw products, which include frozen and chilled beef and
+mutton, hides, sheepskins, wool, and such things as horsehair, tallow,
+jerked beef, etc., represented a value of &pound;19,549,231 in 1908.</p>
+
+<p>Manufactured or partly manufactured material, including prepared tallow,
+meat extracts, meat, butter, cheese, lard, dressed leather, etc.,
+represented &pound;2,454,760, whilst the by-products, including bones, dried
+blood, guano, waste fats, etc., were valued at &pound;430,734. Thus,
+Argentina's total export from the cattle industry (after supplying her
+own needs) was over &pound;23,000,000.</p>
+
+<p>Argentina's live stock on hand when the last census was taken in May,
+1908, was as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Cattle</td><td align='right'>29,116,625</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sheep</td><td align='right'>67,211,758</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Horses</td><td align='right'>7,531,376</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Mules, swine, goats, and asses</td><td align='right'>6,098,802</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>representing in value &pound;129,369,628.</p>
+
+<p>The favourite breed of cattle is the Shorthorn, and they comprise 84 per
+cent, of the classified breeding cows; the Herefords only figure out as
+6 per cent., but, undoubtedly, a more careful and complete
+classification will lead to modifications in these figures, for at the
+present time no less than five and a-half million cows are returned as
+Criollo cattle, in other words, unimproved stock.</p>
+
+<p>Not until the year 1885, when it became possible to send frozen meat to
+Europe, did estancieros pay serious attention to growing cattle for meat
+production, and now, with an ever-increasing quantity of land being
+placed under alfalfa, the Argentine Republic is fast becoming the
+leading factor in the production of meat to satisfy the world's
+consumption.</p>
+
+<p>Cattle on the outside fringe of occupied lands are still very coarse and
+rough, with a distinct strain of the<a name="Page_25"></a> Hereford about them; they are,
+however, a useful herd and most suitable for the districts they occupy,
+where they often have to undergo the hardships of shortage of pasture
+owing to drought, and little or no water, indeed, it is a marvel how
+these animals exist at times; and assuredly no refined breed of cattle
+could live where the Criollos not only manage to thrive, but generally
+to return a satisfactory result to their owners. The cattle on ranches
+which are nearer to the seaports, manufacturing centres, or railway
+stations show distinct improvements. Greater care is bestowed upon them,
+and the main consideration is never lost sight of&mdash;it is the ambition of
+every estanciero to have his cattle graded up so that they are looked
+upon as &quot;freezers,&quot; which means that they are good enough to be
+purchased by one or other of the refrigerating companies, who take
+nothing but the best.</p>
+
+<p>In 1888 cattle running the northern camps (which then represented the
+extreme outlying posts) were only valued at $6 per head.</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>In</td><td align='left'>1890</td><td align='left'>the value</td><td align='left'>had risen</td><td align='left'>to</td><td align='left'>$10</td><td align='left'>per head.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1900</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>15</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1908</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>28</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'> 1910</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>40</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>The question of stock raising and the object to be obtained must rest
+with the owners: they must decide whether the land is to be utilised for
+fattening cattle or for breeding the high-class animals for which there
+is an ever-ready market. To show the enormous value of animals and the
+high standard to which agricultural lands can be brought, mention must
+be made of two estancias near Buenos Aires, viz., those belonging to
+Messrs. Cobo and Messrs. Bell, where splendid stock is always to be
+found. To give some idea of the high price paid for first-class pedigree
+animals, it may be mentioned that &pound;3,800 was paid for a prize Durham
+bull which was sold to Argentina!</p><a name="Page_26"></a>
+
+<p>At the cattle show at Buenos Aires held in July, 1910, Herefords for
+killing realized from &pound;850 to &pound;1,000 per animal! These latter high
+prices were, however, evidently paid by the agents of Cold Storage
+Companies for advertising purposes. One representative explained that
+the freezing Companies desired to encourage breeders, and that his
+Company paid the high prices mentioned above so as to let the breeders
+know that they would always be paid high prices for first-class cattle.</p>
+
+<p>When we consider the really important position which Argentina takes as
+a food producer, it appears incredible that the English nation (business
+men and the general public alike) is so extremely ignorant, as a rule,
+of prevailing conditions. I do not refer to those who have invested
+their money in the many channels known to the River Plate circle. But
+men holding high official positions speak of our commercial interests in
+Argentina as &quot;something between a hundred and a hundred and fifty
+millions,&quot; and then in a whispered side-speech indicate the dangers of
+revolution.</p>
+
+<p>Often it is suggested that the chances of death from small-pox, yellow
+fever, and even from murder are a serious drawback to what might
+otherwise be a country possible to live in. It makes one very indignant
+to hear these statements from the lips of those who probably have never
+left their own country. Let me assure you they may be swept aside, and
+were it not for their frequent reiteration it would be unnecessary to
+say that there is not one grain of truth in these suggestions as applied
+to the state of things to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly one-fifth of the population of Argentina is centred in and around
+Buenos Aires. It is a city of 1,200,000 inhabitants, many of whom are
+millionaires; but at the same time there exists much poverty within its
+precincts&mdash;poverty caused in no small degree by the vicious<a name="Page_27"></a>ness of the
+rich, but to a far greater extent by the rooted objection of certain
+classes to go out to the camps where, during the harvest time at least,
+wages are high and labour is anxiously awaited.</p>
+
+<p>When we compare the health of this city of Buenos Aires with that of
+other large cities, we can see what has been done in the way of
+improvements in the last few years. A glance at the following tables
+will give some idea of what has been accomplished. The natural increase
+of the population of Buenos Aires between 1898 and 1907 was 19.1 per
+1,000, and no other city equals this.</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>The increase in</td><td align='left'>London</td><td align='left'>was</td><td align='left'>8.8</td><td align='left'>per 1,000.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>Berlin</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>8.5</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>New York</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>5.7</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>St. Petersburg</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>4.6</td><td align='left'>&quot;</td></tr></table>
+
+
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>The birth-rate of </td><td align='left'>Buenos Aires</td><td align='left'> for 1908 was </td><td align='left'>34.3.</td><td align='left'>Per 1,000.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>London</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>25.7.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>Berlin</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>23.3.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>New York</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>28.5.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>St. Petersburg</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>27.5.</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Both these tables are, however, probably affected by the great number of
+immigrants finding their way to Argentina, many of whom remain in Buenos
+Aires.</p>
+
+<p>The health of the City may be well gauged by the death-rate for the year
+1907.</p>
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Buenos Aires</td><td align='left'>stands well with</td><td align='left'>15.2</td><td align='left'>per 1,000</td><td align='left'>inhabitants.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>London</td><td align='left'>has a death-rate of</td><td align='left'>15.1</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Berlin</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>14.8</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>New York</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>18.6</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>St. Petersburg</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='left'>25.7</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>&quot;</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>(Undoubtedly the high rate shown by the last-named city is greatly due
+to the foul condition of the Neva.)</p>
+
+<p>To appreciate thoroughly the position which Buenos Aires now holds, and
+the strides which have been made in <a name="Page_28"></a>regard to the sanitation of the
+City, we have but to look at the past. Between the years 1889 and 1898
+the death-rate per thousand was as high as 22.9 per 1,000; from 1899 to
+1908 it was only 16.6, and now the record stands at 15.2 per 1,000.</p>
+
+<p>The authorities are justly proud of what has been done, and will not
+diminish their efforts so long as there is work to do and problems to
+solve.</p>
+
+<p>I should like to state once more the fact that the United Kingdom
+depends upon Argentina for nearly one-fourth of her food supply
+purchased abroad. I want to impress upon your mind the seriousness of
+the position, for this proportion of one-fourth will be largely
+increased in the near future, for reasons already stated.</p>
+
+<p>The question has often been asked, &quot;Is it safe to buy land in
+Argentina?&quot; But the drift of this query too often is merely
+self-interest; in other words, it really means &quot;Can I successfully
+speculate in land?&quot; Clearly the matter is solely a personal one, no
+other consideration is thought of, so one is tempted to give an evasive
+answer. Should the questioner, however, be a young fellow, with God's
+gift of health and plenty of truth and grit in him, who wants not only
+to acquire the land, but to work it, then, indeed, there is but one
+answer, and that is in the affirmative&mdash;let him go, and let him ever
+remember that he is an Englishman and that England is judged by the
+conduct of her sons: but do not let him make the great mistake a
+newcomer so often falls into, which is, that because he is an Englishman
+all other nationalities must be inferior, and that by some sort of
+divine right he has been created lord of all. Let him realise that those
+whom he meets in Argentina are as noble and pure as those he left at
+home. Argentina offers to-day a splendid opening for the best of
+England's sons, but she does not want the loafer nor the ne'er-do-well.
+Can it <a name="Page_29"></a>be wondered at that England's prestige is seriously injured when
+so many of the &quot;wasters,&quot; and worse, are sent from the country? It is
+but natural that from these, who go to foreign countries, England is
+judged. To my mind we should send abroad men who are bound to succeed,
+men who never forget that from their behaviour the Mother Country will
+be appraised. Argentina will embrace and reward them, but she will spurn
+and despise the dissolute and drunken.</p>
+
+<p>The advice I would give to all those thinking of trying Argentina as a
+field for agricultural work is to remember that to be successful one
+must begin at the bottom, the harder the school the better will be the
+result: you cannot detect and correct the faults which militate against
+success unless you have been through the mill. Not long ago I sent a boy
+out to Argentina and painted the first two years of learning in the new
+country in rather lurid colours. I explained and dwelt on the
+hardships&mdash;indeed, I described it as &quot;a dog's life.&quot; Within a year, the
+lad wrote home to his parents and mentioned all that I had told him, but
+finished up by saying, &quot;There's plenty of 'life' about it, but not much
+'dog.'&quot; The truth is that the boy had accepted things as they came along
+and had adapted himself to his surroundings, and, I predict, he will
+never regret having left his home, where opportunities were cramped by
+small surroundings, for the wider field of Argentina.</p>
+
+<p>A great many Englishmen resident in Argentina, whose sons are looking
+forward to finding their life's work in that country, send their boys
+home to England to be educated. Far be it from me to deprecate the
+training acquired by English public school life, but it might well be
+worth while to consider the other phase. The boy who has had his
+schooling in Argentina and goes through his training and passes into one
+of their Universities will have to his credit <a name="Page_30"></a>something which cannot be
+bought by money or influence by boys straight out from home. He will
+have been a fellow student, and worked shoulder to shoulder with men who
+will in due time occupy positions of power and influence, and it is just
+as well to weigh out these things before deciding where to educate your
+boy. A boy born in Argentina, whatever the nationality of his parents
+may be, is by Argentine law an Argentine subject, and should be brought
+up to appreciate that he is liable to be called upon to go through a
+military course: the Argentine boy, who has had just as gentle an
+upbringing as the English boy, is compelled to serve his time in the
+army if called upon, and generally the discipline engendered by this
+training has not only been good for him, but is a distinctly valuable
+asset to the country, and the English boy, as well as a boy of any other
+parentage born in the country, will be obliged to go through this
+military training if required.</p>
+
+<p>I venture to think that were England to adopt compulsory military
+service in some shape or form, we should hear a great deal less of the
+unemployed and &quot;don't-want-work&quot; demonstrations.</p>
+
+<p>To attempt to give a picture of Argentine life is impossible in the
+short time at my disposal. Imagine to yourself, if you can, a country of
+1,212,600 square miles whose borders extend from well within the Tropics
+to away down south to the everlasting snows, embracing all kinds of
+lands, from the very richest of soils to ice-capped and rocky peaks, and
+you must admit that to attempt to describe the various conditions of
+life therein is wellnigh impossible. Life is much what the surrounding
+conditions make it&mdash;on the extreme edge of cultivation it is distinctly
+rough, on the inner camps refinement steps in, and in the cities you
+will find just what society you wish. Amongst the cosmopolitan
+population of Buenos Aires there <a name="Page_31"></a>are many men and women of the highest
+culture and education.</p>
+
+<p>There are many Argentines, who stand out prominently from the throng of
+busy pleasure-seekers, who are devoting their lives to improving the
+surroundings of those less fortunate fellow-creatures who have fallen
+upon the thorny path, and whose portion is often the cup of bitterness.
+Indeed, I have ever found the Argentine desirous of helping those who
+seek advice and assistance; but he spurns the foreigner who degrades
+himself and his country by acts of folly which would not be permitted in
+his native land.</p>
+
+<p>Englishmen often fall into the great error of keeping themselves to
+themselves. Possibly this trait is engendered from birth and training by
+our insular position, but it is a great pity to carry it too far, for
+the Argentine people do appreciate the thoroughness of our countrymen,
+and are ready to welcome the right sort. We have taught the Argentines
+many of our national sports and games, and they have entered into them
+with such thoroughness that the teachers have often had to admit that
+the pupil has proved better than the master.</p>
+
+<p>Travelling has become an integral part of the education of the Argentine
+family to-day, and it is quite general to find young children speaking
+fluently four or five languages.</p>
+
+<p>I could wish that those who have Argentine friends would insist upon
+their seeing, when in this country, some of the Englishman's home
+surroundings, for hotel life, theatres, dinners, and music-halls are all
+very well in their way, but to see the real inwardness of English life
+you must follow the Englishman to his country home. My experience is
+that the Argentine will always refuse an invitation to your home at
+first, because of the trouble which he believes you will be put to, but
+don't take &quot;no&quot; for an answer; simply make him come, and he <a name="Page_32"></a>will thank
+you afterwards for his experience of English home life.</p>
+
+<p>Just a word or two, for fear I have left an impression that Argentina is
+the El Dorado which lies beyond the seas. There are such things as
+locusts, floods, droughts, and frosts in that country.</p>
+
+<p>The first of these&mdash;locusts&mdash;are indeed a plague which to-day it seems
+almost impossible to annihilate, for I have little faith in man's
+attempts effectually to stop or decrease this pestilence; on the other
+hand, Nature always seems to be on the alert to prevent an overthrow of
+the balance of things. Those who have spent their lives in the River
+Plate district have seen this appalling plague crushed by means which
+Nature, in her own good time, has thought fit to use.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to floods and droughts, these can, at least, be modified by
+men, and means are now being adopted to conserve the floods and render
+their waters available in time of drought.</p>
+
+<p>From frosts we seem powerless to defend ourselves, and it is only those
+whose work is in close touch with the growing and handling of crops who
+can fully appreciate the damage done by late frosts.</p>
+
+<p>No country is free from drawbacks of some sort or another, and these
+troubles which I have just mentioned will not prevent the forward march
+of progress in Argentina.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1">[A]</a><div class="note"><p> These figures are approximate</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2">[B]</a><div class="note"><p> The dollar referred to throughout this paper is the
+Argentine paper dollar, which since 1899 has had a fixed value, and is
+worth approximately 1s. 9d. Previous to that date its value fluctuated
+considerably.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3">[C]</a><div class="note"><p> A list of the other Colonies and Foreign Countries which
+largely contributed to this total will be found on the following page.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_D_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D_4">[D]</a><div class="note"><p> The other colonies and foreign countries which largely
+contributed to the totals mentioned are as follows:&mdash;
+</p>
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>DENMARK&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Barley</td><td align='left'>&pound;22,708</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>5,988,573</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>ROUMANIA&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc.</td><td align='left'>&pound;2,564,538</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>nil.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>TURKEY (including CRETE)&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc</td><td align='left'>&pound;1,383,971</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>nil.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>TURKEY, ASIATIC&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc.</td><td align='left'>&pound;1,344,322</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>nil.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>CHILI&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc</td><td align='left'>&pound;1,099,660</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>10,682</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>BRITISH INDIA&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc</td><td align='left'>&pound;2,226,668</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>nil.</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>NEW ZEALAND&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Corn, etc</td><td align='left'>&pound;30,585</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>4,168,649</td></tr></table>
+
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="HISTORY_OF_THE_SANTA_FE_LAND_COMPANY_LIMITED"></a><h2><a name="Page_33"></a>HISTORY OF THE SANTA F&Eacute; LAND COMPANY, LIMITED.</h2><a name="Page_34"></a><a name="Page_35"></a>
+
+<p>In the years 1881 and 1882, Messrs. C. de Murrieta &amp; Co. acquired a
+block of land from the Government of the Province of Santa F&eacute;, and in
+December, 1882, sold one undivided half-share thereof to Messrs. Kohn,
+Reinach &amp; Co. Messrs. Murrieta &amp; Co. and Messrs. Kohn, Reinach &amp; Co.,
+having decided to develop the said lands, formed the Santa F&eacute; Land
+Company, and the prospectus appeared in July, 1883.</p>
+
+<p>The area sold to the new Company was said to comprise about 650 Spanish
+leagues, or 4,336,150 English acres, and the price to be paid to the
+vendors was &pound;1,050 per league.</p>
+
+<p>In order to provide a port of shipment on the Rio Parana the Company
+bought a further lot of 323 acres in the Colony of Romang.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the original block of land, the Company has since bought
+the following areas:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>The estancia of La Barrancosa, 10,801 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>26,678</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>The estancia of Santa Catalina, 4,049 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>10,002</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>A strip of land at Guaycuru on the eastern boundary
+of the Company's forest lands, 1,636 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>4,041</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>A piece of land at Venado Tuerto, 37 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>91</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>A piece of land at Arrufo, 100 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>247</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='left'>A piece of land at Tostado, 50 hectareas, say</td><td align='right'>123</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td align='right'>Total:&mdash;</td><td align='right'>41,182</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>Since the beginning of the Company the total area of land sold has
+amounted to 709,549 acres (up to 30th June,<a name="Page_36"></a> 1910). It is calculated
+that the land comprised in the Bazan claim, to which reference is made
+later on, measures 582,914 acres. Upon this supposition the Company now
+owns 3,044,100 acres.</p>
+
+<p>The original price paid for the Company's lands worked out at about 3s.
+an acre.</p>
+
+<p>The original capital of the Company was &pound;875,000, of which over &pound;675,566
+was paid to the vendors, leaving a balance of &pound;199,434 to meet the
+preliminary expenses and the initial cost of opening up the new
+properties. After some years it was found necessary to write off a
+portion of the capital, and accordingly, in 1897, the Company's lands
+were re-valued at approximately 2s. 9d. an acre.</p>
+
+<p>The present Directors of the Company are:&mdash;</p>
+
+<ul><li>Mr. CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE (<i>Chairman</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. IVOR BEVAN.</li>
+<li>Mr. GORDON H. BROWN.</li>
+<li>LORD HAWKE.</li>
+<li>Mr. LOUIS H. KIEK.</li>
+<li>Mr. T.E. PRESTON.</li>
+<li>Capt. The Hon. F.C. STANLEY.</li></ul>
+
+
+<p>The London Office is at 779, Salisbury House, Finsbury Circus, London,
+E.C., and the Secretary of the Company is Mr. David Simpson. The Head
+Office in the Argentine is at 761, Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires, and
+the following are the principal officers of the Company in Argentina:&mdash;</p>
+
+<ul><li>Mr. HUGH M. RATTRAY (<i>General Manager</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. W.B. WHIGHAM (<i>Manager of the Cattle and Lands Department at Sun Cristobal</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. R.N. LAND (<i>Manager at Santa Catalina</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. T. SCOTT ROBSON (<i>Manager at La Barrancosa</i>).</li>
+<li>Mr. G.L.C. GITTINS (<i>Acting Manager of the Woods Department</i>).</li></ul>
+
+
+<a name="Page_37"></a>
+
+<br />
+
+<h4>SHARE CAPITAL.</h4>
+
+<p>The original shares of the Company were &pound;10 each. It was decided in 1897
+to reduce them to &pound;7 fully paid, which placed the capital at &pound;612,500.
+Shortly afterwards each &pound;7 share was converted into seven shares of &pound;1
+each.</p>
+
+<p>In 1906 the shareholders authorised the creation of &pound;200,000 of fresh
+capital, which was issued to them in two blocks of &pound;154,000 in 1906 and
+&pound;46,000 in 1907.</p>
+
+<p>Fresh capital was authorised in 1908, viz., &pound;187,500, of which &pound;161,608
+was issued in 1909, and further lots have since been issued, bringing
+the total amount of authorised capital to &pound;1,000,000, and of issued
+capital at 30th June, 1910, to &pound;982,347.</p>
+
+<p>An issue of &pound;50,000 Six per Cent. Debentures was made in January, 1904;
+and the whole amount was redeemed on the 1st July, 1909.</p>
+<br />
+
+<h4>BAZAN LANDS.</h4>
+
+<p>Part of the area sold to the Company consisted of a block of
+approximately 88 Spanish leagues, or 530,000 English acres, which became
+the subject of negotiations and lawsuits between this Company, the
+Provincial Government of Santa F&eacute;, and other parties, lasting for more
+than twenty-five years. The area in question lay to the West of the Rio
+Salado, and, at the time when this Company was formed, was supposed to
+be included in the Province of Santa F&eacute;. Soon afterwards the Province of
+Santiago del Estero put forward a claim to the lands on the ground that
+the boundaries of that Province extended eastwards to the Rio Salado,
+and it therefore disputed the right of the<a name="Page_38"></a> Province of Santa F&eacute; to sell
+the lands to Messrs. Murrieta &amp; Co. in 1882.</p>
+
+<p>By an Agreement with the Government of the Province of Santa F&eacute;, the
+Santa F&eacute; Land Company took proceedings in the Supreme Courts of the
+Province to establish its rights to the land in dispute on the
+understanding that if the Company failed to establish its claim, the
+Government of the Province of Santa F&eacute; would indemnify it for its loss.
+In the result the Company was evicted from the lands, and entered into
+negotiations with the Government of the Province of Santa F&eacute; for
+indemnification. These negotiations went on for some years without
+coming to any practical conclusion, and at last the Company commenced a
+lawsuit against the Province and won it. After further delays and
+negotiations the Government agreed to issue bonds in respect of the
+Company's claim, and, in July, 1909, the Company agreed to accept
+$3,212,000 paper Bonds of the Province, carrying interest at 3&frac12; per
+cent., with an amortisation of &frac12; per cent., the coupons being
+available for payment of land tax. The Government further undertook to
+ratify the original titles of the Company, and to make a survey at the
+joint expense of both parties, for the purpose of ascertaining the exact
+area comprised in the original transfer. Any lands found to be in excess
+were to be paid for by the Company to the Government at the rate of
+$13.50, paper, per hectarea (about 8s. an acre). The price of such
+excess lands was to be recouped by the Government from the Bonds issued
+to the Company, and the Government retained $712,000 Bonds for this
+purpose, pending the result of the survey.</p>
+
+<a name="Cattle_Train_on_Central_Argentine_Railway"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image05.png" width="456" height="458" alt="Cattle Train on Central Argentine Railway, bringing
+Cattle to Barrancosa." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Cattle Train on Central Argentine Railway, bringing
+Cattle to Barrancosa.</h4>
+
+<h4>RAILWAY COMMUNICATION.</h4>
+
+<p>At the time of the formation of the Company, the nearest railway was
+that belonging to the Central Argentine<a name="Page_39"></a> Railway, and the nearest
+railway station was Rosario, but some years later, the lines now
+belonging to the French Railway Company of the Province of Santa F&eacute; were
+laid between Santa F&eacute; and San Cristobal. Subsequently the Central Norte
+Railway, which stretches northwards from San Cristobal to Tucuman, was
+built by the National Government, and in 1907, the National Government
+built a line from Santa F&eacute; to San Cristobal <i>via</i> San Justo.</p>
+
+<p>The Company have built a railway from a point north of Vera running into
+their forests, and extend it from time to time as the development of the
+wood industry demands. They further own a line from Margarita to La
+Gallareta, where the extract factory of the Compania Tanin de Santa F&eacute;
+is situated. The Company propose to build a railway from San Cristobal
+to penetrate to their northern properties, and have applied to the
+Argentine National Government for a railway concession in connection
+therewith.</p>
+<br />
+
+<h4>ADMINISTRATION.</h4>
+
+<p>After various changes of centre the administration offices of the
+Company were, in the year 1902, divided between San Cristobal for the
+cattle and lands department, and Vera for the woods department, but, in
+1906, the woods department was placed under the supervision of the
+General Manager of the Company, who lived at San Cristobal, and, in
+1908, the central offices were moved from San Cristobal to Buenos Aires.
+Through the latter office all the work of the Company in Argentina
+passes on to the London office, the managers at San Cristobal, Vera,
+Santa Catalina, and La Barrancosa, having to concern themselves only
+with the technical and administrative work carried on under them
+respectively.</p><a name="Page_40"></a>
+<br />
+
+<h4>COMPANY'S BUSINESS.</h4>
+
+<p>The Company's business has been mainly divided into three branches,
+viz.: (1) land sales and rentals; (2) cattle industry, and (3) timber
+trade.</p>
+
+<p>The first two branches are conducted from San Cristobal, situated at the
+S.W. corner of the Company's original lands, and for many years the site
+of the central offices of the Company in Argentina, whilst the timber
+trade is conducted from Vera.</p>
+<br />
+
+<h4>SAN CRISTOBAL DEPARTMENT.</h4>
+
+<p>A township was started at San Cristobal in 1884, and now numbers 4,500
+persons.</p>
+
+<p>The Administration House and other buildings for the use of the General
+Manager and Staff of the Cattle and Lands Department were erected about
+three miles from the town, and the whole now forms a large and handsome
+establishment, equipped with the most modern requisites for carrying on
+the work of the estancia.</p>
+
+<p>The cattle lands have been divided up into sections, which are managed
+by officials of the Company, under the control of the administration at
+San Cristobal. The office there and the offices on the various sections
+have recently been connected up by telephone. These sections are
+Polvareda, Michelot, Los Moyes, and Lucero (which lie to the North and
+North-East of San Cristobal), and Las Chu&ntilde;as, which forms the
+North-Western corner of the Company's lands.</p>
+
+<a name="Loading_Wheat_at_Rosario"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image06.png" width="452" height="454" alt="Loading Wheat at Rosario from the &quot;Barranca.&quot;" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Loading Wheat at Rosario from the &quot;Barranca.&quot;</h4>
+
+<a name="San_Cristobal_Estancia_House"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image07.png" width="455" height="456" alt="San Cristobal Estancia House." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>San Cristobal Estancia House.</h4>
+
+
+
+<a name="Page_41"></a>
+
+<h4>SANTA CATALINA AND LA BARRANCOSA.</h4>
+
+<p>In January, 1897, the Company rented the estancia of Santa Catalina,
+which is situated about five miles from Los Cardos on the Central
+Argentine Railway and about 150 miles South of San Cristobal. Here the
+stock which was brought down from San Cristobal was fattened before
+passing on to the markets. At the same time the Company continued the
+sowing of alfalfa which had been begun by the proprietor, and ultimately
+decided to buy the camp and use it as an establishment for breeding fine
+stock. The terms of the purchase were that the price should be paid by
+way of an annuity, payable during the joint lifetime of the owner and
+his wife. In 1909 this method of payment was compounded and satisfied in
+full by an allotment of shares of the Company.</p>
+
+<p>The practice has been that the male calves born on this estancia should
+be sent North to the general herds kept at San Cristobal and the
+adjoining sections, and that the progeny of these animals should in turn
+be sold as fat cattle.</p>
+
+<p>To facilitate this business the Company found it necessary to acquire a
+camp specially adapted for fattening purposes in the Southern part of
+the Province, so that they might be brought into closer touch with the
+markets of Rosario and Buenos Aires. They accordingly bought the
+estancia La Barrancosa in 1906, and have been constantly increasing the
+area there under alfalfa, equipping it with a full complement of wells
+and fencing. This estancia lies half way between the towns of San Isabel
+and Venado Tuerto, from the latter of which it is distant about sixteen
+miles. But, during the year 1909, a new broad-gauge railway line was
+opened, leading from Rosario to Bahia Blanca. It passes <a name="Page_42"></a>right through
+the estancia, and by means of a station just outside the boundary the
+Company have fresh means of despatching their animals to Rosario.</p>
+<br />
+
+<h4>VERA DEPARTMENT.</h4>
+
+<p>The headquarters of the Woods Department is situated about eight miles
+N.W. of the town of Vera, which stands at kilometre 250 north of the
+City of Santa F&eacute; on the line of the French Railway Company leading from
+Santa F&eacute; to Resistencia. Sawmills and offices were built, which involved
+the presence of a considerable number of work-people, for whom houses
+had to be provided. Consequently, a small village has grown up at the
+place.</p>
+
+<p>A branch railway was begun in 1905, at a point 13 kilometres north of
+Vera town, on the French Railway, to penetrate westwards into the
+Company's forests, and has been extended to a point called Olmos, lying
+30 miles away. Along the line two or three hamlets have sprung up, where
+people connected with the wood industry reside, as well as the Company's
+officials who control the timber in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>In 1904 the Company entered into an agreement with Messrs. Albert and
+Charles Harteneck, Frederick and Charles Portalis, and Hermann Renner,
+to bring out a Company to work a factory for the manufacture of tannin
+extract from the wood of the Quebracho Colorado tree, and this factory
+was ultimately built within the Company's properties at a place called
+La Gallareta, which is situated 17 kilometres north-west of the Station
+of Margarita on the French Railway line. The Santa F&eacute; Land Company have
+also built a branch line from Margarita to this tannin factory.</p>
+
+<a name="Watering_Place_at_Barrancosa"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image08.png" width="459" height="455" alt="Watering-Place at Barrancosa." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Watering-Place at Barrancosa.</h4>
+
+<a name="Wood_on_the_Company39s_Own_Line_ready_for_Loading"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image09.png" width="460" height="455" alt="Wood on the Company&#39;s Own Line ready for Loading." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Wood on the Company&#39;s Own Line ready for Loading.</h4>
+
+<h4><a name="Page_44"></a>THE FOLLOWING TABLE SHOWS THE FINANCIAL POSITION OF THE COMPANY FROM
+1898 TO THE PRESENT TIME.</h4>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'>Year ending.</td><td align='center' colspan='2'>Share Capital.</td><td align='center'>Debentures 6 per cent.</td><td align='center'> Profit.</td><td align='center'> Loss.</td><td align='center'>Placed to Reserve.</td><td align='center'>Balance Forward.</td><td align='center'>Dividend (percent.)</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>Authorised.</td><td align='center'>Issued and fully paid.</td><td colspan='6'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td align='center'>&pound;</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>30th June,</td><td align='center'> 1898</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>420</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>Cr. 420</td><td align='center'>...</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1899</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>1,650</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>Dr. 1,230</td><td align='center'>...</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1900</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>11,757</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>Cr. 2,870</td><td align='center'>1&frac14;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1901</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>9,854</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>2,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 3,068</td><td align='center'>1&frac14;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1902</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>20,746</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>10,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 6,158</td><td align='center'>1&frac14;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>1903</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>23,988</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>10,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 7,896</td><td align='center'>2</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1904</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>28,332</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>6,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 8,790</td><td align='center'>3&frac12;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1905</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>36,483</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>6,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 8,648</td><td align='center'>5</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1906</td><td align='center'>812,500</td><td align='center'>612,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>48,183</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>6,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 11,018</td><td align='center'>6&frac12;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1907</td><td align='center'>812,500</td><td align='center'>766,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>82,700</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>12,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 20,398</td><td align='center'>8</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'> 1908</td><td align='center'>1,000,000</td><td align='center'>812,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'>91,463</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'> 86,628<a name="FNanchor_E_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_E_5"><sup>[E]</sup></a></td><td align='center'> &quot; 20,611</td><td align='center'>10</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'>&quot;</td><td align='center'>1909</td><td align='center'>1,000,000</td><td align='center'>812,500</td><td align='center'>50,000</td><td align='center'> 115,375</td><td align='center'>...</td><td align='center'>20,000</td><td align='center'>&quot; 22,549</td><td align='center'>10 and
+Bonus of 1&frac12;</td></tr></table>
+
+<br /><hr style="width: 45%;" /><br />
+
+<a name="Loading_Timber_at_Wayside_Station"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image10.png" width="457" height="495" alt="Loading Timber at Wayside Station." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Loading Timber at Wayside Station.</h4>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_E_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_E_5">[E]</a><div class="note"><p> Including &pound;76,623 from Share Premiums.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<a name="Page_47"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="THE_VALUE_OF_LAND_IN_ARGENTINA"></a><h2>THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA.</h2>
+
+<p>When one goes to a foreign country, and more especially when he intends
+to settle there with the idea of making a fortune, he naturally turns
+his attention to the value of the land, as from this he draws his views
+of the prosperity of the country. Now, twenty-five years ago the
+Argentine had comparatively very few railways; consequently, the lands
+at any long distance from Buenos Aires (the capital) were at a very low
+value. The province of Buenos Aires, the largest in the country, has
+always been the most populated, and its lands have always commanded the
+highest prices, and these have risen tremendously, but not so much of
+late years in proportion as land in the northern provinces. During the
+years 1885, 1886, 1887, and 1888, there was a great boom in land.
+Foreigners were pouring in, bringing capital; great confidence was put
+by foreign capitalists in the country, several railways had run out new
+branches, new railways were built, new banks were opened, and a very
+large extent of land was opened up and cultivated, and put under wheat
+and linseed, harvests were good and money was flowing into the country.
+Then came a very bad year, 1889; the harvest was practically lost owing
+to the heavy and continuous rains which fell from December till July
+with hardly a clear day. This, together with a bad government and the
+revolution of 1890, created a great panic and a tremendous slump in all
+land, from which it took a long time to recover. Where people had bought
+camps and mortgaged them, which was the general thing to do in those
+days, the mortgagees foreclosed, and, when the camps were <a name="Page_48"></a>auctioned
+off, they did not fetch half what the properties had been bought for in
+the first instance, some four or five years previously. This, naturally,
+had a serious effect on the credit, soundness, and finances of the
+country, but really, the crisis was not felt until some three or four
+years after, and it was 1896 and 1897 which were very serious years for
+the country.</p>
+
+<p>To give one an idea of the value of land in four or five of the
+principal provinces of the country, I must begin with the Queen
+Province, as it is called, viz., Buenos Aires. In 1885, property in the
+city centre was worth 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. a yard, whereas to-day it has
+been sold up to &pound;200 sterling per yard, while suburban lots of 20 yards
+by 60 yards realised &pound;5 and to-day are fetching &pound;150, and camp lands
+have risen from &pound;10,000, to &pound;100,000 the square league. Of course this
+is within a radius of 30 to 50 leagues of the city; lands away to the
+south and west may yet be bought at &pound;10,000, and, still further south
+towards Neuquen and the far Pampa, at &pound;2,000 per square league. The
+province of Buenos Aires is not considered good for alfalfa growing, but
+has good natural grass camps.</p>
+
+<p>The province of Santa F&eacute; is a large province, extending from the
+northern boundary of the province of Buenos Aires to Santiago del
+Estero, and contains what is known as the Gran Chaco. The southern
+portion of this province is largely dedicated to the production of
+wheat, linseed, and maize, for which it is admirably adapted. There are
+also large estancias carrying vast herds of cattle, sheep, and horses,
+while the northern portion has vast forests of very fine and valuable
+timber.</p>
+
+<a name="Wheat_ready_for_Loading_at_Station_on_Central_Argentine_Railway"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image11.png" width="454" height="453" alt="Wheat ready for Loading at Station on Central Argentine
+Railway." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Wheat ready for Loading at Station on Central Argentine
+Railway.</h4>
+
+<p>The first part of this province to be developed was the country around
+Rosario, the large port on the River Parana, where ocean-going steamers
+call. This, together with good railway accommodation in all directions
+<a name="Page_49"></a>combined with excellent land in the district, facilitates the
+cultivation of cereals on a very large scale. Property in Rosario itself
+is very valuable, and from &pound;30 to &pound;50 a yard is a common figure. In the
+immediate district of Rosario land is rarely sold in large areas, but
+may be calculated at &pound;20 an acre, whilst 40 leagues further north it is
+to-day worth &pound;50,000 a league. I know of one estancia of one league
+which was bought in 1885 for &pound;2,000, resold, after being sown down in
+alfalfa and divided into paddocks, without further improvements, at
+&pound;12,000 (this was in 1903), and again sold in 1909, certainly with
+further improvements as regards watering arrangements and more paddocks,
+house, and sheds, etc., in fact, a fair model estancia in good working
+order, for &pound;60,000. Land on the south-west of Rosario, and about 40
+leagues distant, has in the twenty-five years risen from &pound;2,000 a league
+to &pound;40,000 a league. This is for virgin camp, and to-day in these
+districts the average price can be stated at from &pound;30,000 to &pound;40,000 per
+league, yet 300 miles further north land&mdash;good land&mdash;can be had at from
+&pound;4,000 to &pound;6,000 per league.</p>
+
+<p>The next province, Cordoba, is one of the most hilly in the country, and
+has been one of the most developed during latter years. Some twenty
+years ago this was almost considered a desert, where one was told
+nothing would grow and cattle could not live. To-day it is one of the
+most prosperous; wheat and linseed are great products here, while
+alfalfa, when carefully treated, that is, not overstocked, lives for
+ever on account of the sandy soil, and water being so near the surface.
+These lands twenty years ago were valued at about &pound;500 to &pound;600 per
+league, while to-day it is difficult to acquire land under cultivation
+or alfalfa at less than &pound;30,000 per league. In the Northern part of this
+province are very valuable stone quarries.</p><a name="Page_50"></a>
+
+<p>Another province that is advancing very fast is that of San Luis. Here,
+again, it has been found that alfalfa is at home, and thrives
+splendidly. This, again, is a very sandy soil, and consequently is much
+sought after, but this land has not yet touched the value of that in the
+provinces already mentioned; it will not stand so much cropping, and
+will not carry the same amount of stock, but still the average price for
+virgin camp is from &pound;5,000 to &pound;10,000 per league. In this province there
+is a very large extent of very poor land, covered with a small shrub,
+which is not worth more than &pound;2,000 a league.</p>
+
+<p>Mendoza is a more northerly province, and mostly dedicated to the grape
+and wine industry, while a lot of fruit is also exported from there.
+Wine is made in very large quantities, and a lot of very good quality.
+The value of land varies very much. The greater portion is worth at
+present very little. The great point is to get the water concessions for
+irrigating; without irrigation the land is useless. A good vineyard in
+its prime, with good irrigation rights, is worth as much as from &pound;40 to
+&pound;50 per acre, while the ordinary camp land is at about 7s. per acre.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+<a name="The_Maker_of_Land_Values"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image12.png" width="462" height="491" alt="The Maker of Land Values." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>The Maker of Land Values.</h4>
+
+
+<a name="Page_53"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="REMARKS_ON_STORMS_AND_THE_CLIMATE_OF_THE_ARGENTINE"></a><h2>REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE.</h2>
+
+<p>The Argentine Republic, like all hot countries, is subject to very great
+hurricanes and storms. They occur most frequently in the spring and
+summer, when very sudden changes of temperature take place. The
+thermometer has often been known to drop 25 degrees within half an hour.</p>
+
+<p>A great deal of damage is always caused, trees which have taken years of
+care and trouble are ruthlessly uprooted, roofs blown off, windmills
+blown down, haystacks turned over, and valuable animals struck by
+lightning. The terrible closeness and stillness which generally precede
+a &quot;tormenta&quot; are certain forerunners of bad weather and storms. A
+terrible hailstorm which took place some time ago will always be
+remembered by its spectators. The usual signs of it were evident; the
+atmosphere had become very close and it had been extremely hot for some
+hours before. Though only about 4 p.m., it got peculiarly dark and a
+strong gale began to blow, and distant sounds of thunder were heard. A
+sudden lull came, which meant that the storm was about to break; sheets
+of lightning of every description were followed by deafening peals of
+thunder, which made man and beast tremble. Then there came a downfall of
+huge hailstones; they were just like big lumps of jagged ice; some of
+them measured about six to eight inches round and weighed over half a
+pound. This storm did a fearful lot of harm; not a leaf was left on a
+single tree, and hundreds of birds lay dead all around. Though very
+violent, this hailstorm did not last more than <a name="Page_54"></a>ten minutes, in which
+time an incalculable amount of destruction took place.</p>
+
+<p>In September, 1909, a very bad cyclone suddenly came on us. The sky
+turned black and blacker, and the clouds looked horribly wicked.
+Suddenly a terrific gale got up, which caused every window and door to
+rattle in a most alarming manner, though they had all been as well
+secured as possible. The dust seemed to filter in just the same, and in
+five minutes the house was an inch thick in it. We heard a loud bang and
+then another over our heads, and on looking out of a window we saw the
+roof of one of the outer buildings lying on the ground; part of it had
+been blown over our house and had carried away the chimney, a big iron
+one, on its way. We were told afterwards that the cook had had to use
+all her force against the kitchen window to keep it from bursting open,
+as, if the wind had got in, it would have carried away that roof as
+well. This hurricane lasted for about an hour and a-half; as soon as it
+had abated somewhat we went out to see the result. Everywhere reigned
+havoc and confusion, the whole place looked an old ruin, brick-bats,
+tiles, broken branches, loose sheets of corrugated iron lying all
+around; three roofs had been blown away, several windmills knocked down
+and carried 100 yards away, and lovely old trees had been completely
+uprooted.</p>
+
+<p>The natives, frightened of remaining in their own quarters, had, in
+their terror, deserted them and taken refuge, with their wives and
+children, in the open camp, where they fondly imagined they were safer.
+Out in the camp the roofs of most of the &quot;puestos,&quot; or huts, had been
+also carried away, leaving the occupants exposed to the cold rains and
+winds which followed.</p>
+
+<p>A peculiar feature of this storm was that it was not at all general; at
+the neighbouring &quot;estancias&quot; it was not felt <a name="Page_55"></a>at all, and some of the
+&quot;peons,&quot; who were riding in the camp at the time, said they could see
+this whirlwind coming a long way off at a tremendous rate and that it
+looked like a column of red smoke; they could not feel the effects of
+the wind either, although they were not more than half a mile away.</p>
+
+<p>This storm was followed by very heavy rains which lasted for about ten
+days, during which our house was flooded, as the wind had lifted the
+tiles and the rain was driven in through every possible place.</p>
+
+<p>Another time, when driving home from the town of Vernado Tuerto, we were
+caught in a very bad dust storm. Things became so black that we could
+not see where we were going, so we had to halt. The wind was so strong
+that the men had to get out of the carriage, which was a heavy
+covered-in waggonette, and hold the wheels down to prevent it from being
+overturned. We all looked like seaside niggers, as the dust and rain
+falling at once came down like mud on us all. One gets quite hardened to
+these severe storms. On one occasion a very rough wind began to blow,
+but, as it was a steady gale, no one took particular notice of it. It
+was after dinner, and everybody was busy playing cards. The wind made
+such a deafening noise that you could hardly hear yourself speak;
+presently some of the occupants of the house thought they would have a
+look outside to see if things were all right; when they were surprised
+to see an outer building, used for stores and machinery, roofless, and
+the roof nowhere to be seen; it was discovered afterwards on the top of
+their own house, and they had never heard it happen.</p>
+
+<p>The climate in the Argentine is very variable; we have great extremes of
+heat and cold. It is healthy as a rule, except in the swampy districts
+or during a very wet season, when a great many residents suffer from
+rheumatism.</p><a name="Page_56"></a>
+
+<p>People talk about the sudden changes of English weather, but we are
+treated just the same; one day it will be brilliantly hot and fine, and
+another day cold and miserable.</p>
+
+<p>One part of the country or another is generally suffering from drought,
+when in another part they are being flooded out.</p>
+
+<p>In the winter there is much more sunshine than there is in England; in
+the early morning it is bitterly cold, at noon on a fine day it is
+blazing hot, and then, as soon as the sun goes in, it freezes hard.</p>
+
+<p>In the summer, of course, the heat is very great, but, as it is
+generally dry, it is quite healthy.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="SOME_EXPERIENCES_OF_WORKING_ON_ESTANCIAS"></a><h2><a name="Page_57"></a>SOME EXPERIENCES OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS.</h2><a name="Page_59"></a>
+
+<p>I came out with my brother on a tramp steamer from Penarth. We took
+thirty-one days. However, time passed fairly quickly, chipping off rust
+and painting the decks, after we got over our sickness.</p>
+
+<p>Rain fell heavily as we landed at Buenos Aires, two typical <i>gringos</i>
+(greenhorns), not knowing a word of Spanish. I went to a first-class
+hotel, whose proprietor I had met in England. My first attempt to speak
+Spanish was in a tram. I asked the conductor to stop; getting out I
+said, &quot;Mucha grasa&quot; (much fat), instead of &quot;muchas gracias&quot; (many
+thanks)&mdash;then called the man a fool for laughing.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped in Buenos Aires a week and our bill came into hundreds of
+dollars, which took a big slice off our small means.</p>
+
+<p>We then went to an estancia (farm) in the Province of Cordoba. The
+estancia was fifty-one miles square, owned by an Argentine family. The
+manager was a North-American, well known in camp life.</p>
+
+<p>The estancia consisted of three sections, one where I went, another
+where my brother was, and the other the headquarters.</p>
+
+<p>I was under a young Scotchman. The camp was fifteen miles, with 3,000
+cows, 2,000 steers, and 500 mares. There was my companion, one peon
+(man), a boy, and myself. My house was made of mud walls and floor, a
+zinc roof, with a little straw. It was cool in summer, but very cold in
+winter. There was one room for ourselves, <a name="Page_60"></a>where we slept and ate, one
+for the cook (when we had one), and a kitchen. Under my bed I had a
+snake's hole; a long black snake came out in the night, and, on hearing
+a sound, would go back. I did everything to kill it, but with no
+success. Also I had two kittens which slept in my bed. One night I felt
+something soft by my feet. I thought it was the kittens, but, putting my
+hand down, I found my feet covered with blood. I jumped out of bed, and
+found a young hare half eaten and my sheets covered with blood.</p>
+
+<p>The first thing I had to do was to skin a cow, and it made me feel very
+uncomfortable to look at the horrid sight. The next day I was sent to
+fetch the fat from a dead cow. When I got there I could not see any fat
+and wondered what it was. I saw the intestines and carried them bodily
+on my new recado (native saddle). My horse got excited and I arrived
+dead beat. I told my companion I had the fat: then he burst out laughing
+and said I had got the intestines. Needless to say my recado was the
+worse for wear.</p>
+
+<p>The food was different from what I was used to, and I felt ill for a
+time.</p>
+
+<p>In the summer I was up at between three and four, having &quot;mat&eacute;-cocido&quot;
+(cooked Paraguayan tea&mdash;the native drink) with a hard biscuit; at
+eleven, breakfast of puchero (big pieces of meat boiled in a pot), then
+maize with milk and a biscuit. Sometimes tea at four, but very seldom;
+supper consisted of an asado and mat&eacute; at seven or eight o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>I had charge of two valuable stallions&mdash;they had a stable of mud and
+straw.</p>
+
+<p>At branding time the capataz (foreman) came up with his men for a week.
+Up before three o'clock, quite dark, we branded 6,000 calves, and I
+enjoyed it.</p>
+
+<p>The Boss seldom came; when he did, his trap would be <a name="Page_61"></a>sure to run over a
+piece of wire, and then we heard of it; nothing missed him.</p>
+
+<p>Then our cook began stealing provisions from the store box. We changed
+the locks three times, and each time she bought a key to the same. One
+night I asked her for some coffee. She said there was none. I could see
+she had some in a small bag, and I went to fetch it. She took up a knife
+and threatened me. I soon twisted the knife from her. Our food was bad,
+my companion was careless, and frightened of her. One day he had a row,
+and she got the sack, using strong language. We then did our own cooking
+for eight months: the first one home from camp had to begin cooking.</p>
+
+<p>The meat we got was often green and bitter. All the time we had puchero
+and asado, and an occasional ostrich egg.</p>
+
+<p>Ostriches swarmed everywhere, and it was good sport lassoing them. I
+found one nest with fifty eggs, laid by different birds. My cooking was
+rather a failure at first, the smoke was so thick we could not see each
+other. I was told to cook maize for dinner. I made a big fire, and
+cooked for three hours, and was then told I had the stallions' maize.
+Another time it was very dark; our candles, made of old clothes and
+grease, had run out. I had made some good soup, and put the pot near the
+table, then, walking by, put my foot in it: the hot grease made me hop,
+and took the skin off my foot. Our table was an old greasy box; we had
+no plates, nor forks, just a big knife. Sometimes, coming in very tired
+from a hard day, we had no strength to chop wood and make a fire; we
+just went to bed. Many days we only had an asado and mat&eacute;. Mat&eacute; I am
+very fond of&mdash;it is so refreshing and sustaining.</p>
+
+<p>My brother was only eight miles away: his section was under alfalfa, and
+he had a comfortable house. One dark night, going home from his place, I
+followed a fence until<a name="Page_62"></a> I came to a cross fence. I was going slowly,
+when, all of a sudden, my horse stopped dead, and I shot over the fence,
+the bridle and halter came off, and away went my horse, leaving me to
+continue five miles on foot.</p>
+
+<p>Bizcachas (like a big badger) were numerous. One day we dug a two-metre
+hole, and next day found eight live ones. They have teeth one and a-half
+inches long.</p>
+
+<p>Our nearest village was eighteen miles away, where I met some English
+friends, and played tennis or had some other amusement. I used to start
+back at 2.30 a.m. to be in time for work. One night I had to cross a big
+field, without a path or fence for a guide. It was dark, and lightning
+hard. I made for a light, which I thought was the house. Going for some
+time, I came to a fence&mdash;I was lost. I unsaddled and lay down to sleep,
+the rain was pouring hard, when I heard a donkey braying, so I shouted,
+and was answered by a man in a puesto (out-station). The light I saw was
+a village twelve miles away.</p>
+
+<p>My companion was very slack, and the patrons came up and sacked him.</p>
+
+<p>Then I went to the estancia house for a month, breaking in colts for
+driving. I felt rather sad at leaving my rough work. It was hard work,
+but I never had better health.</p>
+
+<p>My Boss then earned $15 per month, and his wife cooked for the men. Now
+he is one of the richest men in the country.</p>
+
+<p>There was no opening there, so the Boss sent me to a New Zealander who
+had half a league of camp, all fine stock, good alfalfa and splendid
+water. He had a big house and I expected I would live well. My first
+work was to dig up locusts' eggs for a week under a hot sun, with the
+ground very hard. The Boss was a man of forty-two, very red-faced and
+extremely rich, but as mean as possible.</p>
+
+<p>Our meals took about six to eight minutes, fast eating; <a name="Page_63"></a>he would watch
+every mouthful. At tea he would take a lot of milk and give me a little;
+he finished soon, while I burnt my throat. He allowed me a slice of
+biscuit for each meal. His cook only got $10 a month.</p>
+
+<p>In the winter we were in bed by six to seven.</p>
+
+<p>His clothes were a disgrace to any peon. He had native trousers that
+button at the foot, with top boots, no socks, his heel and big toe were
+sticking out, no vest, only a shirt and an old hat, where the grease of
+many years was visible.</p>
+
+<p>He was a splendid worker&mdash;I have not seen a better one. We used to catch
+locusts in a big zinc box pulled by two horses; the locusts were put
+into sacks, and after being left standing for four days, were carted to
+the village, where he got 10 cents a kilo. The smell in carting these
+dead locusts was simply terrible. Then I helped pick ten square of
+maize, which at first took a little skin off my hands. At branding time
+we lassoed each calf to cut off the horns. I had to sit on their necks,
+and got smothered in the face with hot blood. The Boss was very proud
+because his monthly account only came to $12 for four of us: biscuits,
+sugar, tea, and other things. He sent his clothes once in three months
+to be washed. He had few friends, no one ever came to visit him, and
+every Sunday he shut himself in his room. He bought the place for
+$90,000 and sold it for over double. He was a thorough campman, but so
+mean. One cold winter 500 cows died of starvation; rather than sell them
+at a low price he let them starve. The last thing he said was, he was
+&quot;going to New Zealand to marry an ugly lady, but she has plenty of
+money.&quot; His countrymen called him a disgrace to his country and the
+meanest in the Argentine.</p>
+
+<p>Then a kind friend found me a place on a well-known estancia in the same
+province. The manager, the second-<a name="Page_64"></a>manager, and the book-keeper were all
+Irish, born in the country. I had a good horse, which I rode fifty miles
+to the estancia.</p>
+
+<p>The second told me to have my food with the peons (men), which was
+rather disheartening. I tried to eat in the kitchen, but the French cook
+kicked me out, and for ten months I fed with the peons; they were very
+good fellows. The second and the book-keeper had meals together. The
+second-manager did no work: up at half-past eight, he went to the train,
+had a drink at the shop, then came back for dinner, slept until
+tea-time, then went to see the train pass again and have another drink,
+and came back at all hours. He had been there fourteen years and was
+only getting a hundred a month.</p>
+
+<p>The chief work was loading cattle and sheep for the big freezing
+factories. The trucks were rotten. One night we finished at 11 p.m.,
+after a hard day's work, three of us unloaded 300 quebracho posts in
+under three hours. I had a French gardener in my room who did nothing
+else but spit and talk politics.</p>
+
+<p>The Boss took me to learn shearing. I had to shear, gather the wool,
+sort it and pack it up. Each man got five cents a sheep, but it was hard
+work, all done by hand.</p>
+
+<p>Then I cut alfalfa for a fortnight&mdash;a nice easy job.</p>
+
+<p>A Catholic priest came to stay for eight days&mdash;Mass every day at 7 a.m.
+and 8 p.m., sometimes three a day. No work at all. Everyone had to
+go&mdash;the book-keeper did not, so he got the sack. I, as a Protestant,
+went to the sermons, which were very good. It was wonderful; these rough
+campmen went away quite tamed for a time. The last night the Boss got
+married at half-past twelve at night to a native lady. Another time,
+while we were at Mass, someone came to say the gardener was dying&mdash;we
+raced down, the priest in front ready to hear his confession, but when
+we <a name="Page_65"></a>got there the gardener was calmly smoking his pipe, greatly
+surprised.</p>
+
+<p>An inspector of locusts stopped all the summer. He did nothing but eat,
+sleep, and drink whisky. We had locust-killing machines of every
+description, but we did not kill ten kilos.</p>
+
+<p>The days I enjoyed were when we started out early to part some animals
+in a herd of over a thousand. At eleven we would have an asado and mat&eacute;,
+and give our horses a drink, then finish parting, and get home at
+half-past seven. The horses look wrecks, and no good, but they work all
+day&mdash;mostly galloping&mdash;and are splendid stayers.</p>
+
+<p>The Boss's brother, a very nice man of fifty, married a servant of the
+Boss, a girl of eighteen.</p>
+
+<p>Great excitement is caused by races. The Boss was keen, and the men
+talked of nothing else for days. Every Sunday there are races. Once I
+rode my horse bareback in three races of 200 metres, and won a bottle of
+beer, a packet of tobacco, and a knife.</p>
+
+<p>Then I was put in charge of fine stock. I had ten Durham bulls, two
+thoroughbred stallions, one Pecheron, eight rams and twelve pigs. I had
+a boy under me. I also had to saddle up the Boss's and the Second's
+horses, and harness the traps. Sometimes I had to wait till eleven at
+night, very tired, to unsaddle the Second's horse, as he had been making
+love to the Stationmaster's sister.</p>
+
+<p>The work was very interesting and hard, even on Sundays or feast days,
+watering, cleaning the animals, and curing any foals that were ill.</p>
+
+<p>I then moved to another room near the stable, with a newly arrived
+Italian who knew no Spanish nor English, also an Irishman just arrived.
+They could not speak to each other. The Irishman slept on the floor
+every night, and poured kerosene all over him to keep insects away.<a name="Page_66"></a> One
+day he poisoned five pigs, giving them the dip-water to drink. He had
+few clothes. He would turn them inside out, and often had three pairs of
+trousers and two shirts on.</p>
+
+<p>One day the Boss was out: the men were taming some wild colts in the
+corral. I took French leave and went. I got on five. None had had a
+saddle on before or even been handled. We lassoed them, pulled them down
+and put on the bridle. Then five men held a long rope and one put on the
+native saddle, with stirrups big enough to get your toes in. Then they
+tied a red handkerchief round my head. I mounted gently but quickly.
+Then the rope was taken off and away the colt went as fast as possible,
+with one man on each side to shove you either way, all the time bucking
+and plunging. I did not fall, but one stirrup broke. One laid down and
+would not move. It tried to bite everyone. When they go fast and buck at
+the same time it is very hard to stick on.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th of May, the great holiday in this country, I went to an
+estancia to see some friends. On my way back we had to cross a deep
+river. The coachman drove across, but one wheel went into a big hole and
+the jerk sent me out on my head, where the wheel passed over my hair,
+missing my head by inches. I was senseless. A crowd of women came and
+began weeping&mdash;they thought I was dead&mdash;then I was taken in a procession
+to the chemist, who sent me to a hospital, where I found my collar bone
+broken. I did nothing for three weeks.</p>
+
+<p>This estancia is a splendid one for learners, because there is a little
+of everything. Once I had a month with the threshing machine, sleeping
+out with the mosquitoes, and getting meat nearly raw for food; but a lot
+of money can be made from the harvest.</p>
+
+<p>Then, after a few weeks' holiday to England, we came <a name="Page_68"></a>back, and I went
+down south with my brother to sow alfalfa seed. We had a caravan on
+wheels, and learned how to plough and sow. We went to a camp
+race-meeting, where every estancia has its own tent, there is racing all
+day and dancing at night.</p>
+
+<p>I often look back upon these jolly times. Work was exacted with anything
+but kindness, but the life was simple and very healthy, and many
+pleasant reminiscences are talked over when it is my luck to join others
+around the camp fire before falling to sleep with nothing but a
+bullock's head as a pillow and a &quot;recado&quot; as a blanket and the glorious,
+starry sky above one.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="THE_SOCIAL_SIDE_OF_CAMP_LIFE"></a><h2>THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE.</h2>
+
+<p>To an outsider, life in the camps or country might be considered very
+slow: the distance between the estancias being so great, the ordinary
+form of social life is quite impossible; for instance, when one goes to
+pay a call on a neighbour, even a first call, it means going for the
+day, starting in the cool of the morning and returning in the evening,
+and so allowing the horses to have a rest. Of course, if everyone had a
+motor-car, this might not be necessary; but as yet they are very few and
+far between. This is no doubt owing to the bad roads; in most districts,
+after a few hours' rain, the roads are flooded, and what is worse still,
+&quot;pantanosa&quot; (thick, sticky mud).</p>
+
+<p>Most estancieros keep open house, and are only too pleased when people
+&quot;drop in,&quot; which they do at all times and for any meal, almost without a
+&quot;by your leave.&quot; An estancia house has to be very elastic, and ready to
+provide, at a moment's notice, board and lodging for unexpected guests.
+This is quite the nicest way of entertaining one's friends&mdash;no fuss of
+preparation, and, more often than not, a very jolly evening of cards,
+music, or games.</p>
+
+<p>It is a delightful country for men, a healthy, open-air life, with
+plenty of hard work and hard riding; each man has from four to six
+horses allowed him for working purposes, and then, as a rule (talking of
+the English mayor-domo), he has two or three polo ponies of his own.
+Sunday is the great day for polo; there is very little time in our busy
+Argentine even for a practice game during the week, so Sunday means a
+merry meeting of friends wherever there is a polo club in the district,
+people going in <a name="Page_72"></a>six or seven leagues (or even more) from one side of
+the town to meet friends who have come an equal distance from the other
+side, a thing they might not do for months if it were not for the polo
+club. Each lady takes her turn in providing tea on these polo Sundays,
+and there is great competition as to who makes the best cakes,
+especially as it often falls to the lady herself to make these luxuries.</p>
+
+<p>Wherever there is a polo club the most exciting event of the year is the
+Spring Race Meeting, two days' racing, often followed by a polo match or
+tournament with neighbouring clubs, and always as many dances as
+possible, as it is the only time in the year when enough girls can be
+collected together; every estancia house has its own party, as many as
+can be crowded in, including friends from Buenos Aires and Rosario, who
+delight in these camp meetings, and she is a proud hostess who can count
+a few girls amongst her party. I may as well add here that girls are
+almost &quot;non est&quot; in the camp, many districts for leagues and leagues
+round not being able to boast of one English girl.</p>
+
+<a name="Tennis_Party_at_Vera"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image13.png" width="460" height="490" alt="Tennis Party at Vera." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Tennis Party at Vera.</h4>
+
+<p>Most clubs hold a Gymkhana Meeting in the Autumn, which makes one more
+excitement in the year: it is a very merry meeting as a rule, with
+always a dance or two if enough girls can be found. During the Winter
+season (from April 1st to September 1st) the shooting is very good in
+most parts, and many good shooting parties are given where there is
+enough game to make it worth while asking one's friends. The bag
+consists of partridges, martinetta (similar to the pheasant) and hares
+(which are not considered worth picking up); when there are a number of
+guns, dogs are not used, but two men on horseback drag a wire through
+the grass (several in a line, if a big party), which forces the birds to
+rise, and the guns walk behind. Peons on horseback, carrying sacks, keep
+close up to them and pick up the <a name="Page_73"></a>birds as they fall, and close on their
+heels comes a big brake, into which are emptied the contents of the
+sacks as they get too heavy. The ladies of the party follow in all sorts
+and conditions of vehicles, cheering on the shooters and dispensing
+much-needed refreshments. A shoot is always followed up by a jolly
+evening, after a hot bath and a good dinner. The men, forgetting how
+tired they are, are quite ready to sing, dance, or play bridge until the
+small hours. Another great event not to be forgotten is the visit of the
+Camp Chaplain: he goes from one district to another holding services,
+every Sunday in a different place. In a well-populated district he would
+hold one about every two months, but to some places, where there are
+next to no English people, he would probably only go about once or twice
+a year. Church Sunday is quite an event, and again gives one an
+opportunity of meeting friends from a distance. The parson is very
+lenient with us as a rule, and does not object to any form of amusement
+in the afternoon, such as polo, tennis, cricket, football, or golf, and
+encourages the young men to come to <i>Church</i> (usually a room hired for
+the occasion) in costumes suitable for such. Our poor Camp Chaplain does
+not have an easy time; distances are so great that more than half his
+time is spent on the train.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<a name="Page_77"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="CARNIVAL_IN_THE_ARGENTINE"></a><h2>CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE.</h2>
+
+<p>Carnival falls every year during the week before the beginning of Lent.
+It is a general holiday, and much fun and amusement are crammed into the
+few days which precede the dull season of fasting.</p>
+
+<a name="Carnival_at_Vera"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image14.png" width="458" height="423" alt="Carnival at Vera." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Carnival at Vera.</h4>
+
+<p>Carnival is more observed in camp towns than in the bigger cities, where
+the custom of celebrating it is very much on the wane, and where the law
+forbids water-throwing and other such damp forms of amusement, which are
+winked at by the more lenient authorities in local towns.</p>
+
+<p>It is really quite a pretty sight to see a camp town during carnival.
+The one main street, which does not boast of pavements, and is generally
+a yard deep in dust, is gaily decorated with bunting and festoons. Small
+stands are put up every ten yards or so, in which the &quot;caballeros&quot; take
+up their positions and pelt the &quot;senoritas&quot; with confetti and
+&quot;serpentinas&quot; (blocks of different coloured paper which look like rolls
+of tape about 30 or 50 yards long). The elite of the &quot;pueblo&quot; drive
+round in the procession; ladies, some in the very latest creations, and
+some in beautiful fancy dresses, parade round in flower and ribbon
+bedecked carriages. A prize is generally given to the best decorated
+conveyance, and to the best fancy costume, which causes a lot of
+competition and jealousy amongst the fair sex.</p>
+
+<p>On an estancia, carnival is celebrated in a much more drastic fashion.
+On one place, the giddy members of the household have a very rowdy time
+of it, and make things very lively for the unwary. On one occasion, they
+determined to give the mayor-domo his share of the general drenching
+which he had missed; so when he rode in at midday, after a long and busy
+morning's work in the camp, <a name="Page_79"></a>he was welcomed with a volley of buckets of
+water, which were emptied over him from the top of the house, where the
+delinquents had taken up their advantageous position.</p>
+
+<p>Another time a certain young damsel, a guest in the same house, saw from
+the window her hostess entertaining one of the boys, a fresh arrival
+from England, who had ridden over from a neighbouring estancia. Prompted
+by her daring friends she was induced to take up a jug of water, and
+stealing up behind his chair, emptied the contents of the vessel over
+the visitor's head, and then bolted; the injured party, after recovering
+his self-possession, rose to the occasion and gave chase, and after a
+desperate struggle, and in spite of penitent apologies, she was borne
+off by her captor and deposited in the first tub he happened to see,
+which turned out to be a freshly painted rubbish barrel.</p>
+
+<p>There is not much respecting of persons on these occasions, the girls
+generally combine against the boys, who, as a rule, come off best. The
+most binding promises are made on both sides, who vow not to throw
+anything larger than a &quot;globo&quot; (a small balloon filled with water, which
+bursts when it touches anything solid) or &quot;poms&quot; (leaden squirt full of
+scent); but in the excitement of the fray which follows all is
+forgotten, and buckets of water, the garden hose, and even the ducking
+of some in water troughs, are the final outcome.</p>
+
+<p>The scene after an afternoon or evening's battle is very funny; girls,
+with their hair lying in dripping masses over their faces and shoulders,
+their dresses, generally the oldest of thin cotton ones, clinging
+hopelessly to their wearied forms, present a truly comic sight. When
+they are all tired of strife, they retire by common consent to the
+house, where, after discarding their soaking garments and taking a warm
+bath, they are ready to discuss the glories of the day over a
+much-wanted dinner.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="HORSE_RACING_IN_THE_ARGENTINE"></a><h2>HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.</h2>
+
+<p>In this country a great deal more racing goes on than in Europe, and it
+is not confined to the moneyed classes only. Even the &quot;peones&quot; hold
+their small meetings and match their grass-fed ponies. Estancieros and
+mayor-domos have camp race-meetings once or twice yearly at all the
+larger polo clubs, and at Palermo and Hurlingham every class of society
+in Buenos Aires may be seen on the stands.</p>
+
+<p>At Palmero race-meetings are held frequently, almost weekly in fact, on
+Sunday afternoons; and the stands are generally well filled. On days of
+festival, when there is a special programme, the place is crowded, and
+these occasions correspond, more or less, with the more important
+meetings in England.</p>
+
+<p>The course is of earth, and perfectly flat, so that the only thing which
+interferes with the view is dust. The stands are magnificent and the
+different grades of society are divided by railings, while at the back
+of each may be seen the row of offices of the &quot;Sport,&quot; which is the
+betting system of the country.</p>
+
+<p>This consists of tickets, which are sold at a fixed price, with the name
+of one of the entries. After the race there is a great rush to the
+offices, made by those who have bought the winner, to collect their
+winnings, which are the total receipts, minus a small percentage,
+divided by the number of those who bought the winner. In this way a very
+hot favourite will pay very little more than the original purchase
+money, while an outsider who wins will pay his backers perhaps ten, or
+even twenty times their <a name="Page_83"></a>deposit. There is also private betting, of
+course, but no public bookmakers.</p>
+
+<p>The horses are of very good quality, though not up to the standard of
+the classic races in Europe. A number of youngsters are imported yearly
+from England and the United States, and among them usually some good
+selling-plate winners, and one or two that have been placed in
+first-class flat races. The country also produces some excellent horses,
+and they are improving every year; the stud farms are already well known
+in Europe as some of the best in the world. Of these, the most
+important, perhaps, is the &quot;Ojo de Agua,&quot; so-called from its famous
+spring, which waters all the stables as well as dwelling quarters. It is
+the home of the famous Cyllene, whose offspring we expect to see winning
+races in the near future; Polar Star, scarcely less known, and
+Ituzaingo, a native of this country, are his present companions; while
+the remains of Gay Hermit, Stiletto, Pietermaritzburg, and Kendal, all
+of whom are well known among turf circles at home, rest beneath its
+soil. There are several other equally famous stud farms, such as the
+&quot;San Jacinto,&quot; the present home of Val d'Or, who won the Eclipse Stakes
+from Cicero, the Derby winner of that year; at another, Diamond Jubilee,
+whose list of victories is long, resided for the latter part of his
+life.</p>
+
+<p>Nor are the jockeys unworthy of their mounts, and some very fine riding
+may be witnessed both at Palermo and Hurlingham.</p>
+
+<p>In contrast to these races, run on a well-ordered course, and watched
+from luxurious stands, are the native &quot;cancha&quot; meetings, held, probably,
+at some country public-house, and run on a &quot;cancha,&quot; consisting of a
+soft piece of road, or along a fence where there are no holes. The races
+consist of matches arranged between two ponies, over short <a name="Page_84"></a>distances.
+The start is made only by agreement of both the jockeys, and thus many
+hours are wasted in their manoeuvres to get the advantage of one another
+at the start. If the judges have money on the loser, the race is often
+given a dead heat, and has to be run again. The pony of most endurance
+has usually the best chance of winning, though the race itself is short,
+as his rival may be tired out by repeated false starts. Large sums of
+money often change hands at these meetings, as the native is a born
+gambler, and understands this primitive method of racing better than the
+more complicated systems of the regular course. Owing to this, and to
+the competitors' efforts to cheat one another, not infrequently knives
+are drawn during the heated discussion which follows the race.</p>
+
+<p>The ponies are, for the most part, taken straight off the camp, though
+in some cases they have been fed on maize and trained. They are ridden
+either bareback or with the native &quot;recado,&quot; and catch-weights: as may
+be gathered from the method, it is usually &quot;owners up.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Between these two extreme classes of racing in this country are the
+English camp race-meetings, which are held by all the larger polo clubs
+once or twice a year. Being of rare occurrence, and as some, if not all,
+of the faces are open to members of other clubs, these are among the
+chief social gatherings in camp life: in many cases there is a small
+polo tournament attached, as it is the best opportunity for those who
+come from a distance, and could not come twice. Therefore it usually
+means a two or three days' holiday, and often a dance, or some
+entertainment in the evenings. Old friends exchange reminiscences, and
+new acquaintances are formed; while the ladies also make the best of the
+opportunity to put on their smartest frocks and hats.</p>
+
+<p>The races themselves, too, are the source of considerable <a name="Page_85"></a>talk and
+excitement: both horses and jockeys are well known by sight or
+reputation to the chief part of the company, and any &quot;dark horse&quot; or new
+arrival, is inspected with care and anxiety by his rivals.</p>
+
+<p>The class of horse entered varies between the three-quarter bred and the
+&quot;criollo&quot; with no pretence to breeding at all, who often carries off the
+short polo pony sprints. Occasionally there may be a thoroughbred
+entered who has been found wanting at Palermo or Hurlingham, but these
+are few and not always successful, as the longest races do not often
+exceed about a mile and a-half. As the weights correspond to
+steeplechase weights at home the jockeys are practically always
+amateurs, and a large percentage of &quot;owners up&quot; is always found. Young
+mayor-domos who have never ridden at a meeting before often find
+themselves ranged alongside of Grand National riders at the start, and
+some amusing incidents have occurred, though there is some very good
+amateur riding to be seen as well.</p>
+
+<p>The betting is on a smaller scale generally than at the native meeting,
+and is often conducted by someone setting up as a public bookmaker; at
+other times a &quot;sport&quot; is formed after the fashion of Palermo. Also the
+auction of all entries before the start of the races in the American way
+is a great favourite; the total receipts for each race are divided
+proportionately between those who bought the winner and &quot;placed&quot; horses.</p>
+
+<p>There is opportunity for a little horse-dealing too, and many good polo
+ponies to send home or play in the tournaments have been picked up in
+this way. The shorter races for ponies under polo height give an
+opportunity to the polo player, and the mayor-domo who cannot train his
+ponies for longer distances, to try the mettle of their mounts against
+outside and purer blood.</p>
+
+<p>Nowadays most of the entries are trained to some <a name="Page_86"></a>extent, though not
+many go to regular training establishments. To have a reasonable chance
+of running well in the longer races, however, it is necessary to have
+your mounts in stable exercised regularly and fed on corn. It is only
+quite lately, however, that even so much training has been adopted at
+all generally. In the old pioneer days of English estancias, when these
+clubs were formed, they raced ponies taken straight off grass and kept
+fit by riding the regular rounds of camp and stock.</p>
+
+<p>There are many tales of the great &quot;rags&quot; that happened in those days,
+and curious incidents of racing, too. On one occasion a winner of a polo
+pony race was objected to as over height. The measurement was to be
+taken after the end of the meeting; and it must be remembered that all
+ponies out in the camp are unshod. The man who had come in second went
+round to the stables before the measuring and noticed in the winner's
+stall a number of large pieces of hoof recently chopped off. The pony
+passed with an inch off his forefeet and nothing was said, though it had
+been obviously over height. That evening at bridge the owner happened to
+win considerably from the man who had lodged the complaint, who, when
+the score was to be settled, threw down some pieces of hoof on the table
+saying, &quot;Take back your dirty chips.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Nowadays, of course, things are not quite so rough and ready, and most
+of the clubs are affiliated, and run under Hurlingham or the Jockey Club
+rules, so that good sport and good feeling prevail. In fact the camp man
+looks forward to these occasions as the best bits of sport and amusement
+that he will get during the year.</p>
+
+
+<a name="Page_89"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="SUNDAYS_IN_CAMP"></a><h2>SUNDAYS IN CAMP.</h2>
+
+<p>In no place is Sunday more looked forward to and enjoyed than in camp.
+Holidays on the estancia come but seldom, and were it not for the
+welcome break that gives the campman a day of rest every week, his life
+would be a round of work, and probably make him the proverbial &quot;dull
+boy.&quot; All the busy working-days are so filled with the various duties
+that when evening comes and dinner is over the tired worker has little
+inclination for reading or any other relaxation, the thought of that
+early bell which rouses him before sunrise makes him take advantage of
+every hour's sleep he can. At an hour when the townman is thinking of
+beginning the evening's amusement at theatre or concert, the campman is
+sleeping the sound sleep that fresh air combined with hard work never
+denies. But on one evening an exception is made to these early hours,
+and that is Saturday. With the pleasant feeling of a week's work
+completed and the morrow's rest before them, our campmen begin their
+weekly holiday by an extra hour or two at billiards or music, or perhaps
+a rubber of bridge, turning in with a fervid &quot;Thank goodness,
+to-morrow's Sunday.&quot; Then the pleasure of waking at the usual hour (4
+a.m. or even earlier in summer) and remembering that it is the blessed
+Day of Rest, and having time to enjoy the extra hours, then the luxury
+of dressing at one's leisure, choosing the collar and most becoming tie
+and adjusting them with care, and coming out in spotless white duck or
+smart riding breeches, ready to enjoy whatever sport is in season;
+tennis is mostly played all the year round; and when birds are plentiful
+a shoot on the lagunas attracts the sportsman, the<a name="Page_91"></a> &quot;bag&quot; making a
+welcome variety to the dinner table; snipe, partridge, hares, and many
+varieties of duck are common in a season that has not been too dry.
+Then, to those lucky ones who have a polo club within reach, Sunday
+during the winter season is a day of real enjoyment.</p>
+
+<p>The game, which in England can only be played by men of means, can on
+the estancia be enjoyed by all at little expense, the useful little
+Argentine horses being easily trained to the game. Sometimes one finds a
+few enterprising golfers who, with not a little trouble, make a few
+&quot;greens&quot; and do a couple of rounds just to keep their hand in, but it is
+not a general camp game. It will be seen, however, that the Day of Rest
+is not one of idleness, but rather a healthful and beneficial change of
+exercise.</p>
+
+<p>Church service enters but seldom into the camp Sunday&mdash;such privileges
+are rare, although now camp parsons are more numerous than a few years
+ago&mdash;but at best one can only count on one or two services a year. When
+a Church service <i>is</i> held he would be a carping critic indeed who is
+not satisfied and pleased with the earnest attention with which the
+service is followed and the vigorous singing of hymns and chants in
+which all the boys join so lustily; it is a reminder of Home to them,
+and the familiar service is thoroughly enjoyed.</p>
+
+<p>The Day of Rest, so essential to one's well-being, seems to come round
+with such surprising rapidity that we may say truly it proves that
+estancia life, with its long hours of hard work, so far from being
+monotonous or wearisome, is a happy life. Where time flies past quickly
+it means it passes happily, and amongst the most pleasant of the days we
+spend in this land of sunshine we must count the Sundays in camp.</p>
+
+<a name="A_Day_of_Real_Enjoyment"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image15.png" width="460" height="488" alt="&quot;A Day of Real Enjoyment.&quot;" title="" />
+</center><a name="Page_92"></a>
+
+<h4>&quot;A Day of Real Enjoyment.&quot;</h4>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="THE_SERVANT_PROBLEM_IN_ARGENTINA"></a><h2>THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.</h2>
+
+<p>We often hear complaints from friends at home about the trouble they
+experience over obtaining and keeping good servants, and there is no
+doubt that the servant problem is a serious one in England, and is
+getting worse every year; but it pales into insignificance when compared
+with the trials and tribulations of those who live in the Argentine and
+have to keep house.</p>
+
+<p>From all one hears, those living in Buenos Aires and the larger towns
+have a terrible time of it with their servants, especially if they are
+not overburdened with the good things of this world in the shape of hard
+cash; but my experiences have been confined to the camp, so that of the
+town side of the question I cannot speak.</p>
+
+<p>I have been three years in the province of Cordoba, and all the servants
+I have met with except one were Argentines from the foothills of the
+Cordoba Sierras.</p>
+
+<p>They were without exception quite untrained as far as the English idea
+goes, and the first thing to do with them was usually to teach them the
+primitive ideas of cleanliness. The first servant I had was an ancient
+female named Andrea, about forty years old, and it proved quite
+impossible to get her to see the necessity of keeping anything in the
+kitchen clean, as she seemed imbued with the idea that it was great
+waste of time washing saucepans and frying-pans, as they would only get
+dirty again when next used, and the most she could be persuaded to do
+was to rub them round inside with a bit of old newspaper or a handful of
+grass. Needless to say, after a time I got tired of these methods, and
+so we parted.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_94"></a>My next servant, Angelina, was one of the best I had, as she was clean,
+which was a great consideration, and also she was quick to learn and
+soon picked up the rudiments of cooking according to our ideas; her
+great failing, however, was that she was anything but honest, and could
+not refrain from petty pilfering; and another drawback to her was her
+objection to wearing shoes or stockings in the hot weather; in spite of
+being constantly told that she must not appear without them, she would
+insist in doing so, and this was a continual cause of trouble.</p>
+
+<p>After getting rid of No. 2 our real troubles began, and we had eight
+changes in ten months. At the time we were living in wooden huts about
+two miles from a village which was a summer resort for rich people from
+Buenos Aires, and this caused a dearth of servants during the summer
+months, as the place was full from the beginning of December to the end
+of March, and people who came up for the summer and rented houses
+usually were willing to pay anything to get servants, with the result
+that we outside would get none, or only the cast-off ones. Nos. 3 and 4
+stayed but a short time. My fifth attempt was a terrible girl, too dirty
+for words; and though apparently willing to learn, too utterly lacking
+in intelligence to ever learn anything. She used to get herself into the
+most awful grimy condition, and one incident during her time with me is
+worth mentioning. I had with great difficulty one day got her to
+understand that a wood floor could not be properly cleaned with a grass
+broom dipped in cold water and just swished about over it, and, by going
+down on my knees with a scrubbing brush and hot water and soap, and
+giving a practical demonstration of how a floor should be washed, had
+started her away to clean it, and judged that I might safely leave her,
+to attend to the other household duties in the kitchen. I must tell you
+<a name="Page_95"></a>that the day previously I had given her a practical lesson in
+black-leading a stove by doing it myself while she looked on. Well,
+after an hour in the kitchen I returned to see how she was getting on,
+when I found to my great pleasure that not content with scrubbing the
+floor, she had also attacked the stove with hot water, soap, and
+scrubbing brush, with the result that my hard work of the previous day
+was all undone and the whole room well sprinkled with black specks and
+the stove a mass of rust. Two weeks of similar experiences finished our
+acquaintance, and she gave place to No. 6. After I had spent three weeks
+teaching No. 6 cooking, she quietly informed me that she was leaving at
+the end of the week to take up a place as cook in Rosario, as she now
+knew enough cooking for the position; so I had not only wasted all my
+time in teaching her, but had paid her into the bargain for learning
+enough to leave me.</p>
+
+<p>The next servant, No. 7, Alexandrina, was, I think, the worst. She was a
+Spaniard from Barcelona. She was an awful individual, and would insist
+on wearing clothes of so light and scanty a nature that she was not
+decent to have about the house; also, whenever we happened to have a
+joke of any sort to laugh over at meals, she used immediately to come in
+from the kitchen to see what was going on, and I had the greatest
+difficulty to get her to return to the kitchen. I had to get rid of her,
+because her moral reputation was anything but good, and two days in the
+week she refused to get out of bed, and told me to do my own dirty work,
+as she was ill; so at the end of two weeks she had to go. No. 8, Maria,
+was a girl direct from the sierras, and was very stupid and silly, and
+did not a single thing. One day I was buying vegetables, and she asked
+me why I wanted to buy roots, and when I told her they were to eat, she
+said even poor people could afford to <a name="Page_97"></a>buy meat, and she would not eat
+them. One day I took this girl out with me to do some shopping, and
+called on some people who had a piano. It was twilight, and someone was
+playing the piano, and she rushed in the room and out again, with her
+face very white, and said someone was beating a big, black animal in the
+corner of the room, and it was screaming dreadfully with the pain. This
+girl's mother was a very talkative old lady, and would insist on coming
+with three children every day and taking up her position in the kitchen,
+and when once she commenced to talk, one could not get away from her. At
+the end of the month she came for the girl's pay, and wanted me to pay
+her more money, which I was not willing to do, as I had been unable to
+teach her much; so she asked if her daughter might go away for the day
+and night, as she had to bath. This I was only too willing to agree to,
+and let her go; but they returned in the middle of the night, and
+removed all her belongings. After a few days I managed to get No. 9, who
+was a widow with two children: but she only stayed two weeks. Our tenth
+and last attempt was made with No. 4 once more, as she was again able to
+come to us. She stayed two months, when we went away for four weeks'
+holiday. A week after our return I paid her in full for the month,
+though she had never been near the house all that time, and she promptly
+said she could not stay with us any longer, and left. We nearly got to
+No. 11, as we engaged a girl to come at $20 a month to start with, and
+she was to come the next morning at eight o'clock to begin work. She
+arrived at 10 a.m., and informed me that, as we had paid our last
+servant $25 the month, she could not come for less. I was so sick and
+tired of my experiences that this finished me, and I decided to do
+without any servant. Since then, for the last year, I have done the work
+myself.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="POLICE_OF_A_BYGONE_DAY"></a><h2>POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.</h2>
+
+<p>Yes, times have changed since I went to San Cristobal just twenty years
+ago. For then the English were pioneers, so to speak; not in a country
+of savagery, but of semi-savagery, a very different and much worse
+matter. I wonder is A.J., the Chief of Police, still to the fore? Ye
+gods, how that man tried to break my heart, and how nearly he succeeded!
+I was a Mayor-domo then, and G. was my boss, standing in the place of
+the owners to me. The boss had a mortal dread of the police and their
+powers, seen and unseen. So that when the worthy Chief of Police
+suddenly decided to add the trade of butchering to his many lucrative
+businesses, I received orders to sell him cows at twenty-five per cent.
+less price than I sold to any of his competitors. Thus, whereas I was
+selling them at twenty dollars paper, then worth about one pound per
+head, I had to sell him at fifteen shillings, with the inevitable result
+that he almost immediately became master of the situation and the entire
+local market became his, enabling him to charge what he liked for meat,
+while I was forbidden to raise the price of the cows sold him.</p>
+
+<p>Insatiable in his greed, he began to ask for cattle twice a week, always
+taking from ten to twenty animals, until one day, after exceptionally
+wet weather, I protested that it was not possible to round up the stock
+in the then state of the camp and destroy so much grass for a small
+bunch of cows. Unlucky thought and ill-judged protest! For when he urged
+that the inhabitants of the town were starving, and that a small point
+of half-breed heifers would do to go on with, I received orders to let
+him part out from our best <a name="Page_101"></a>herd. Twenty fine half-bred Herefords did he
+pick while I almost shed tears of blood, though all the time, of course,
+I had to show a smiling face.</p>
+
+<p>This sort of thing had been going on for some time, when one of the
+boundary riders told me that the fence between the town and one of our
+nearest paddocks had been cut during the night.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Then mend it up,&quot; said I.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sir, it is mended already.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Not a week had passed before the same man brought me the same report. So
+I determined to &quot;parar rodeo&quot; (round up the cattle) immediately, and
+count them. Twenty heifers short in one square league, and in less than
+a month! This thing had to stop. I told the Capataz to take the boundary
+rider off that beat, without telling him why, and then the Capataz and I
+patrolled the fence night after night for a week, during which it was
+never cut.</p>
+
+<p>We put a new boundary rider on, and three mornings later he came to see
+me bright and early, saying that not only had the fence been cut, but
+that there were distinct traces of cattle having passed out recently.</p>
+
+<p>After assuring myself that there was no doubt about the matter, for I
+found the hoof marks of what I calculated to be not less than twenty
+animals, I went post haste to my friend the Chief of Police, never
+doubting that after all the favours shown him he would prove a friend in
+need. I was young then.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;You don't say so, Don Ernesto!&quot; said his podgy, putty-faced little
+Highness. &quot;Where was it? When was&mdash;&mdash;&mdash; By heavens, somebody shall
+suffer for this! Just let me or any of my soldiers catch the thieves,
+and not one of them shall reach Santa F&eacute; alive. Now, I'll tell you what.
+Just leave it to me, and don't you worry nor think any more about the
+matter, much less mention it to a soul.<a name="Page_102"></a> In less than two days I'll have
+the thief or thieves here in the stocks.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I told him plainly that that was not my programme, and that, whatever he
+did, I was not going to leave that fence unpatrolled until I could move
+the stock out of the paddock.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Then this is what we'll do, Don Ernesto. You shall be one of us. You
+come and dine with me at six o'clock this evening, and afterwards we'll
+go out with the sergeant and five or six men and catch 'em.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>It was about the equinox, if I remember rightly&mdash;the springtime, when
+everything is lovely and lovable: the camp flowers all in bloom, the
+aroma of the trees burdening the air with delicious perfume, the fresh
+verdure and plenty of grass, the powerful, stout-hearted bounding of the
+horse (no longer &quot;poor&quot;) beneath one, and, above all, the great issue
+expected of the business in hand, the most important business to me in
+the world at the time&mdash;all these combined spelled but one word, &quot;Hope!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Carbine in hand, Colt in holster, I arrived at his residence. There he
+was, sitting at the door of his corner house, whence he could look down
+three streets at once. How like a spider, I thought.</p>
+
+<p>His welcome was cordial, but he seemed to smile at my eagerness, and
+told me that he never dined before eight.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But let us sit here in the cool of the evening,&quot; said he, handing out a
+chair for me to sit by him on the footpath, &quot;and let us take some
+refreshment to while away the time. But, tell me, where did you say that
+the fence was cut? But did you really see signs that cattle had passed?
+Preposterous! The sons of guns shall suffer for this. Eh well, I'm glad
+of it in a way&mdash;glad to have a little work, and perhaps a little
+excitement. It doesn't do to have a too <a name="Page_103"></a>orderly district, for the
+Governor and his satellites in Santa F&eacute; imagine I'm lazy and not looking
+after my business if they hear of no commotions. That black fellow you
+sent me the other day, Don Ernesto&mdash;the fellow that was molesting a mad
+woman in the camp&mdash;- I've got him seventeen years in the line for that.
+I wish you would send me a few more, for hardly a letter comes from
+Santa F&eacute; in which I am not asked to send in recruits, so hard up are
+they for Provincial soldiers.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Just then a poor Italian colonist came up, hat in hand. He, too, and all
+his class were pioneers in those days, and God knows what they suffered.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Well, what d'ye want?&quot; asked my companion.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Sir,&quot; said the wretched man, stuttering in his nervousness, &quot;one of my
+bullocks has been stolen, and I know the thief. I have been to the
+Justice of the Peace, and he told me to bring the thief to him; but,
+sir, the th-thief refuses to come.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<i>Bueno</i>! Ten dollars, and ten dollars <i>down</i>,&quot; roared the majesty of
+law.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;But, sir,&mdash;&mdash;&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;No! But me no buts! Ten dollars at once, or I'll call the sergeant to
+lock you up until you can get it.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I could see that the poor fellow's heart was breaking as he drew the
+money from his pocket and handed it over. Smilingly the bully turned to
+me and said, as his victim walked slowly away, &quot;I'll bet you that that
+man doesn't come around to molest me again. I'll guarantee to you, Don
+Ernesto, that there isn't a district in the whole province where so few
+appeals for justice are made.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>At last it was dinner-time, and, being ushered into a dirty room with a
+brick floor, dim light and grimy tablecloth, I seated myself at the
+table with my host, his secretary, the doctor, and a clerk. The dinner
+was in the <a name="Page_104"></a>usual native style of those days: ribs of beef roasted on
+the gridiron, beef and pumpkin boiled together, to finish up with
+&quot;caldo,&quot; which is simply the water in which the beef and vegetables have
+been boiled, with a good thick coating of grease.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner had we begun dinner than it was noticed that we had no wine.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;No wine! How's this? What d'ye mean?&quot; as he angrily turned to the
+sergeant who was waiting.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If you please, sir, So-and-so and So-and-so,&quot; mentioning the name of a
+local firm of storekeepers, &quot;say that they can supply no more wine until
+they can get some of their accounts settled.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;How dare you bring me such a message as that! Take the corporal with a
+couple of men and bring a half-barrel at once&mdash;in less than three
+minutes, or I'll know the reason why.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The barrel was brought, and, with a bit and brace, quickly tapped, and
+the wine set flowing round the table.</p>
+
+<p>The dinner dragged on and on, until I thought he meant us to sit there
+all night. Ten o'clock came, half-past, and then eleven. Then I began to
+smell a rat. I kept on urging the necessity for action, but it became
+more and more evident that the Chief was fooling. He pressed wine upon
+all and upon me in particular, while he drank little himself, although
+he pretended otherwise. At last, I could stand it no longer, and got up
+in no very good humour to go.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;No, but stop, Don Ernesto! Where are you going? Sit down again. The
+horses are not saddled yet: not even caught up. Sit down and have
+patience and we'll all go with you in good time.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>It was after twelve when at last we made a start. There were the Chief,
+the sergeant, a corporal, four men, <a name="Page_105"></a>and myself. We rode slowly in a
+northerly direction until we came to a small gate in the fence, of which
+I had the key. All the way thither the Chief, while commending me for my
+forethought in bringing arms, had been impressing upon me the importance
+of not using them, no matter what happened, &quot;Because, you see, you are
+not an arm of the law, and if you were to shoot anyone, I should be
+obliged to arrest you and send you to Santa F&eacute;.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>When we got through the fence, what was my surprise when the Chief said,
+&quot;Bueno, Don Ernesto, you and I have had a long day. What I propose is
+that you and I off-saddle and doss down here, while the sergeant and men
+patrol with muffled bits and spurs at a short distance from the fence.
+Then the moment they hear anything they can come and let us know!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>In vain I protested that this was not my idea at all, and that I too
+wanted to do the patrolling, but when he told a man to take the saddle
+off my horse and shake down a bed for me, I thought it wiser to
+acquiesce, or, at least, appear to do so. I shall never forget that
+night. How we talked and talked and talked as we lay beneath the
+brilliant stars, I, boiling with rage and anxiety under my assumed
+tranquillity, while he, doubtless, was as much annoyed at having to keep
+me in conversation. It must have been nearly four o'clock when I told
+him that I really must sleep. &quot;Bueno,&quot; said he, as he rolled over on his
+side, &quot;hasta ma&ntilde;ana.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>In five minutes he was snoring. Even so, I did not dare to move, for
+fear that he might be foxing. About an hour passed, during which he
+moved, coughed, expectorated, and had other signs of conscious
+animation, much to my disgust, until at last I thought the snoring
+sounded too genuine to be shammed, so I crept towards him and whispered
+in his ear that I thought I heard sounds of <a name="Page_106"></a>movement. But his snoring
+was rhythmic and swinish, so I gathered up my saddle and gear and stole
+over to my horse, which was picketed some yards off, and proceeded to
+saddle him up. In doing so, my stirrups somehow clashed and thought it
+was all up, for what a fool I should look if he woke and discovered me.
+But it was all right: the music continued.</p>
+
+<p>I led the horse for some little distance, then mounting, I rode him down
+alongside the fence for about a mile until I came to a fresh gap in it.</p>
+
+<p>Horror! Even though it was but what my suspicions had depicted, the
+realisation came as a shock to me. &quot;The&mdash;! The&mdash;!&quot; To repeat my
+expressions would edify no one.</p>
+
+<p>Guided by the signal-lights at the station, I moved along at a smart
+trot and soon recognised the quick tramping of animals ahead. Then I
+drew back, and as the day was just breaking, I drew round to the west
+side of the cavalcade, so that I might see without being seen. Yes, sure
+enough, there were six military chacots outlined against the great sky
+and a troop of animals ahead of them.</p>
+
+<p>I halted to let them get well away from me, and then, with rage and
+hatred in my heart, swearing vengeance all the while, I galloped as hard
+as ever I could to the estancia, to impatiently await the uprising of my
+boss.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;We must wire, or one of us must go to the Governor in Santa F&eacute; at
+once,&quot; I urged. But what was my disgust to be met with but a quiet smile
+of amusement!</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Not if I know it,&quot; said he. &quot;Why, good God, man, do you want to have
+all our throats cut? This man is a personal friend of the Governor's,
+and what satisfaction do you think we are likely to get out of that?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Then let us go to the Consul, the British Minister, or even to the
+President of the Republic?&quot;</p><a name="Page_107"></a>
+
+<p>A quiet smile with a negatory shake of the head was the only answer.</p>
+
+<p>A fortnight later I sought him in his private sitting-room and found the
+Chief of Police sitting in an easy-chair.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Ha! ha! ha! Don Ernesto. So you caught us, did you? Well, it was worth
+the fun. I never laughed so much in all my life as when I awoke that
+morning and found that you had given me the slip!&quot;</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="A_VISIT_TO_THE_NORTHERN_CHACO"></a><h2>A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO.</h2>
+
+<p>After three years on an estancia in the vast monotonous, treeless, but
+most fertile plains of the Central Argentine, under scorching sun,
+driving rains, and biting wind, one feels that one would like to see a
+river sometimes, animal life and more congenial surroundings; and so I
+determined to visit the Northern Chaco, that enormous tract of land
+which lies North of Santa F&eacute; and stretches right away for many hundreds
+of miles to North, East, and West.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Rosario by the night express, one crosses the great, slightly
+undulating plains, probably among the richest in the world for the
+growth of wheat, linseed, and maize, reaching Santa F&eacute; early the
+following morning. This town, the capital and Government centre of the
+province, is rather an uninteresting place; chiefly noticeable in it are
+the great number of fine churches and the magnificent sawmills owned by
+a large French company. Santa F&eacute; is supposed to be one of the most
+religious centres in the Republic. More than once it has almost been
+washed away in an eddy of the giant Parana in flood, the water rising
+four feet in the houses on the highest level in the town.</p>
+
+<p>After spending a day of sight-seeing in Santa F&eacute;, we embarked at
+nightfall for Vera, the headquarters of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company's wood
+department, arriving there in the early morning. The land around here
+from the train appears to be a dry, salty country, devoid of herbage,
+and only valuable on account of the excellent forest trees and timber.</p>
+
+<p>Our morning meal was taken in the station waiting-room (the only
+restaurant in the town), and consisted of cold <a name="Page_110"></a>coffee and what the
+Argentine understands by boiled eggs, which have in reality been in
+boiling water half a minute, and which, in order to eat, one has to tip
+into a wine-glass and beat up with a fork, adding pepper and salt, etc.
+This is the general way of eating eggs in South America; an egg cup is
+one of the few things one cannot get in the country without going to an
+English store in Buenos Aires.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Vera at 8 a.m. the train goes at a snail's pace along the branch
+line to Reconquista, covering the distance of about thirty leagues in
+five hours. Arriving there in the sweltering midday heat, we were met by
+an English friend and his capataz, the latter dressed in his enormous
+slouch hat, deerskin apron, and silver spurs weighing probably a full
+kilo.</p>
+
+<p>One cannot help noticing at once the different type of natives; from the
+slow, slouching, don't-care kind of men, which one sees in Cordoba and
+Southern Santa F&eacute;, to the quick, straight, hawk-eyed half-Indian
+Chaquenos.</p>
+
+<p>Reconquista on a hot summer's day is one of the dirtiest places on this
+earth, which is saying a good deal. One drives through streets two feet
+deep in light sandy dust, which hangs in clouds all over the town. There
+is an excellent hotel in the centre of the town, built on typical
+Spanish plans with fine large open patios, which are filled with
+splendid tropical plants and ferns. Having washed off the dust of three
+days' travel from our weary persons, and having changed into more
+suitable travelling gear, we sat down to an excellent spread.</p>
+
+<p>In the cool of the evening we made a tour of the town, being most
+interested in the cigar factories, where we bought excellent smokes for
+$2 a hundred, all hand-made from pure tobacco leaf by the brown-hued
+lasses of Reconquista.</p>
+
+<p>The rest of the evening we spent in unpacking our <a name="Page_111"></a>native saddles, and
+preparing everything for our long horseback journey&mdash;not having
+forgotten to see that our tropilla of fifteen grey ponies were fit and
+ready to make an early start next morning.</p>
+
+<p>Three a.m. next morning found us out in the &quot;corrales&quot; having our ponies
+allotted to us by the capataz&mdash;we found the tropilla on &quot;ronda&quot;&mdash;that
+is, in a corner with a lasso tied across in front of them, the height of
+their chests, and all facing outwards. This is the most general way of
+teaching horses to stand in the Chaco, as, if taught to stand singly,
+they would fall too easy a prey to the Indians and gauchos. In order to
+saddle these ponies we had to &quot;manear&quot; them, that is, tie their forelegs
+together, for without this they refused to let us put the blankets on
+their backs.</p>
+
+<p>All being ready, we started off, four of us, two in front and two
+behind, with eleven loose ponies between us. By this time the sky was
+beginning to grow light, and evidently the fresh morning air had
+disagreed with my friend T.'s horse, which suddenly cleared down a side
+street with his head between his forelegs and his back arched like the
+bend in an archer's bow.</p>
+
+<p>After some seconds of this amusing sight T. managed to get the pony's
+head up and came along again, looking very warm and beaming; his
+pink-nosed pony quite satisfied that he would have to carry more than
+his own weight for some distance further.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Reconquista on the north we crossed, over an old railway
+embankment, a large stretch of low country, through which a small stream
+glided with winding course, and jogging along league after league we
+gradually got into more interesting country: little clumps of trees with
+very thick undergrowth, clinging creepers, bright-coloured flowers, and
+gorgeously plumaged birds.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_112"></a>All along the sides of the roads were little farms, apparently
+uncultivated, except for small patches of wonderfully grown maize and
+browning linseed. Practically all these farms are owned by Swiss and
+German peasants, each one with his small herd of cows and working
+bullocks.</p>
+
+<p>We changed our ponies every three or four leagues, always going at the
+same jog-trot, stopping occasionally at a wayside inn to wet our parched
+throats with fresh well water (with a drop of ca&ntilde;a in it to kill the
+microbes), and smoking hard all the time to keep off the swarms of
+mosquitoes.</p>
+
+<p>After travelling ten leagues or so we began to leave these habitations
+behind us, and got into wilder country with no fences, only long
+stretches of undulating land, dotted with patches of splendid-looking
+trees and enticing shade.</p>
+
+<p>The road occasionally crossed small streams, which gradually became more
+tropical looking, until we came to quite a large river, two or three
+hundred metres wide, looking beautifully peaceful and oily. Standing
+above on the bank, in the shade of some magnificent quebracho trees, we
+looked down upon this lazy stretch of perfect scenery, when suddenly
+there was a slight disturbance in the water and a small black dot
+appeared on the top of the water. The capataz at once pulled out his
+revolver, all of us doing likewise, only to have to put them back again,
+as the dot had disappeared as quickly as it came. This was the first
+sign of wild animal life we saw, the &quot;jacar&eacute;&quot; or alligator. In the more
+civilised parts of the Chaco, these animals, as well as the carpincho or
+water-hog, are getting quite rare, and having been so much shot at and
+worried they need the most careful stalking.</p>
+
+<p>As we got further away, we came upon many more of these streams, all
+looking much the same; some had bridges over them made of quebracho
+logs, laid endways on and <a name="Page_113"></a>covered with earth, very dangerous to cross
+after wet weather or floods, especially at night, as they are generally
+full of holes where the earth has fallen in.</p>
+
+<p>At 10 a.m. each day we unsaddled for lunch, which was generally composed
+of &quot;charque&quot; or salted beef, biscuits, and coffee. The first night we
+slept at the last habitation which we saw, a small wayside inn. Arriving
+there late in the evening, we had the greatest difficulty in obtaining
+entrance on account of the chorus of barking, snapping dogs, and on
+account of the innkeeper's fear of drunken gauchos.</p>
+
+<p>Another early start on the second day saw us well on our journey by
+si&eacute;sta time, which we spent on the edge of a very fine forest. The
+afternoon was very hot, and we did not start off again until 4 o'clock.
+During the evening we swam across a small river which we found
+overflowing its banks on account of the local rains, and, as darkness
+fell, we found it almost impossible to see our way on account of the
+fireflies, which made such a glare in front of us that the slight track
+which we had been following was almost invisible. It was a very dark
+night, and once or twice we felt rain. We had to go very slowly, so that
+we should not miss the track. Thus we trotted on in Indian file, each of
+us now leading spare horses, in silence, except when one of us asked how
+many leagues it was to the estancia, only to jog on again for what
+seemed two or three hours, until almost midnight. With a cheerful yell
+we suddenly came on a barbed wire fence, and after hunting about for a
+time, a wire gate.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately tongues seemed to be mechanically loosened and the
+conversation flowed freely, discussing the ride, horses, coming
+stiffness, and all the things that one has to talk about after two and
+a-half days in the saddle. On reaching the estancia about 2 a.m., none
+of us needed much <a name="Page_114"></a>bed, and throwing our things down on the grass
+outside, we soon were dreaming of alligators, broken bridges, swimming
+rivers, etc.</p>
+
+<p>About 10 o'clock the next morning I awoke to find myself on a most neat
+little estancia high up on a hill, overlooking, across a slight valley,
+magnificent forests where one could see the glint of running water.</p>
+
+<p>The house was brick floored and had four very nice rooms, which had been
+colour-washed by my friends with excellent success. The ceilings at once
+attracted attention, being of a deep-coloured black wood, well oiled and
+seasoned. &quot;Timbo&quot; it is called, and is the best carving and furniture
+wood in the country.</p>
+
+<p>Out in the garden were oranges, lemons, citrons, pomegranates, limes,
+and all kinds of luxurious fruits and vegetables. In a small fenced
+paddock at the end of the garden, were sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, cotton,
+tobacco, and some magnificent maize.</p>
+
+<p>The men's huts were made of mud over a cane network, and the roofs were
+made of split palm trees, hollowed out and made in the form of a large
+<b>~~~~~~~</b> the palms being placed concavely and convexly alternately,
+making fine drainage for the heavy rains. The whole place was surrounded
+by a ring of fine chaco paraiso trees and &quot;ombu.&quot; The horse corrals were
+all <i>palo a pique</i>, that is, made of solid posts, stuck in close
+together side by side, and about two metres high, with no wire.</p>
+
+<p>The camp was more or less on the real banks of the Parana, sloping away
+to the river four leagues away, and forming one of the most fertile
+spots in the Republic. This low-lying land is the finest and cheapest
+grazing in the north, but it is unreliable because it is quite inundated
+in time of floods, when the cattle have to be withdrawn to higher camp.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_115"></a>During various excursions on the following days we saw tracks of
+&quot;tigers&quot; (leopard) and &quot;lions&quot; (puma); the kill of the latter, a small
+gazelle buck, &quot;guasuncho,&quot; we found neatly covered up with grass and
+leaves, and easily distinguishable from the tiger's kill, which is
+always left uncovered. A very fine tiger's skin was brought in one
+night, measuring 1.84 metres from the tip of the nose to the root of the
+tail, and 1.56 metres across. The man had suddenly come across it while
+on foot in the monte, and after wounding it with his Winchester had run
+it down with his dogs and killed it.</p>
+
+<p>One evening we caught sight of a tapi (tapir) coming down to drink, but
+were unable to shoot on account of the bad light. Each day we saw many
+wild pigs (&quot;chancho moro&quot;) and various kinds of wild cats, including the
+splendid &quot;gato once&quot; or ounce cat, whose skin is one of the finest, and
+only to be compared with the &quot;lobo&quot; or golden otter, which has a most
+magnificent fluffy pelt with a golden tint on the tips. The latter is
+unfortunately getting very rare now.</p>
+
+<p>The great wolf or &quot;aguaras&quot; is still common, and is a very stately
+beast, as he slopes along with his hind-quarters well under him, with
+pricked ears and shaggy black mane.</p>
+
+<p>The forests here are mostly in long strips and clumps, with excellent
+pasture land between them; and they contain, among other commoner chaco
+trees, lance wood, four crowns, and tala. Amongst the strange trees
+there is one enormous broad-leafed tree called &quot;guapoij,&quot; which has long
+creeping roots, which cling on to neighbouring trees and gradually pull
+them down and absorb all their goodness, killing them, and in some
+marvellous way apparently eating them up. One finds occasionally one of
+these trees embracing another bigger than itself, and gradually rooting
+it out of the ground.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_116"></a>On all low ground one generally finds &quot;Zeibos&quot;&mdash;a tree with very soft
+wood and very pretty branches of scarlet flowers.</p>
+
+<p>The wild apricot or &quot;ijguajay&quot; grows everywhere, and looks a very
+tempting fruit, fatal, however, to most Europeans, as it is a very
+powerful purge. The Indian children eat the fruit with joy, and it
+apparently has no bad effect on them.</p>
+
+<p>The forests are full of all kinds of animals, and, in addition to those
+already mentioned, there are red deer, black and brown monkeys, and
+bear, and the ring-tailed coons, which latter make noises like the
+grunting of pigs.</p>
+
+<p>Of ground game there are foxes, tattoo or mulita, armadillo, and
+ostriches.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the birds the most common are various kinds of hawks, including
+some very much like the great bustard, English brown buzzard, and osprey
+falcon, and two or three kinds of parrots and cockatoos, the green
+parrots being the curse to agriculturists, eating all the maize, as the
+locusts do in the South.</p>
+
+<p>There are many different kinds of &quot;carpinteros&quot; or woodpeckers, most of
+them having most wonderful plumage of brown, green, scarlet, blue, and
+yellow.</p>
+
+<p>A strange bird which is not often seen is the &quot;tucan,&quot; a small black
+bird, with a beak almost as big as his body, and of a splendid orange
+colour with a scarlet tip; he is a top-heavy looking little chap when
+seen seated on an orange tree, his favourite haunt.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst table birds there are grey pheasants, martinetta, and
+partridges. Of wild fowl, there are enormous varieties, including the
+&quot;pato real&quot; or great tree duck, whistling mallard, various kinds of teal
+and shovellers, widgeon, muscony and hooded duck, black-headed geese,
+grey geese, and swans. Amongst water-birds are the black, grey, <a name="Page_117"></a>and
+white &quot;garza&quot; or heron. The latter are especially valuable on account of
+the splendid feathers on the back of their necks. Of the smaller birds
+there is the gallinetta, a kind of landrail, the curse of hunters
+shooting wild duck, their wretched screech warning every bird in the
+district. The beautifully coloured and almost transparently winged
+golden moorhen covers every stretch of water inland, and the &quot;chaja&quot; or
+wild turkey, one of the most useless birds in the Chaco, and quite
+uneatable, sends forth his dismal cry &quot;chaja.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The kingfishers are, perhaps, the most noticeable of all the river
+birds, and are of all sizes, from the small European variety to one
+almost ten times their size. Gorgeously plumaged, they skim, like
+flashes of light, over the water, which is full of all kinds of fish
+including &quot;Dorado,&quot; a splendid fighting fish, excellent eating, which
+can be caught with rod or fly, and goes up to 10 kilos in weight;
+&quot;Suravi,&quot; a great mud fish, which is seen sometimes basking out of
+water, weighing up to 50 kilos, with enormous head, and good eating;
+&quot;Savala,&quot; the mud-eating cruiser, which one sees nearly always with its
+tail out of water, and which makes excellent revolver shooting;
+&quot;Palmieta,&quot; the curse of the Chaco streams and rivers, making bathing
+unadvisable on account of its hostile assaults on the extremities of all
+foreign bodies; and the &quot;rallo,&quot; or sun fish, a large flat fish with a
+long tail.</p>
+
+<p>Thus was spent a week of happy days of excursions and explorations,
+where sometimes we had to walk through great distances of undergrowth
+and the everywhere-abundant prickly cactus, cutting our way with large
+cavalry swords, always with our eyes skinned to catch sight of some
+strange bird, beast, or flower. Sometimes we waded for miles through
+swamps, which, in some places, abound with enormous water snakes up to 6
+metres long.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_118"></a>We put up all kinds of water-fowl, as we struggled on, splashing
+through rivers, clambering up and skeltering down slippery banks,
+reaching home tired and weary every night to recount all the day's
+doings, sitting out in the patio in the cool evening, eaten up by
+mosquitoes.</p>
+
+<p>So ended my holiday, with hurried packing, much toast-drinking, and a
+final little farewell dance to the accompaniment of guitar, gramophone,
+mouth-organ, and accordion. The journey south was of no great interest,
+half on horseback, half in &quot;galera,&quot; or public mail coach, with, as
+fellow passengers, a German traveller, a cur&eacute; (most jovial of beings,
+who had brought enough food with him to feed a whole regiment), a head
+of police and his men, and two coach boys.</p>
+
+<p>The coach, with five young horses tied in abreast, went bumping and
+jolting along hour after hour, until we came to a big river,
+unfortunately in flood. The horses were unhitched, tied together and
+swum across; a boat coming from some unseen corner, took passengers and
+luggage across, leaving the coach itself alone, with a long wire tied to
+the end of the pole. The horses were fastened to the end of this wire on
+the other side of the river, and then, with a whoop and a cheer, the
+coach tumbled head-over-heels into the raging flood, twisting and
+turning in all ways, first one side up and then the other, until at last
+it reached the near bank. And so we travelled on, back to civilisation;
+a tiring journey in dust and heat by rail, bringing us home to the same
+old flat, treeless, priceless plains of the Central Argentine, to dream
+for many days of birds, fishes, animals, flowers, trees, good friends,
+and the fine natives of the Northern Chaco.</p><a name="Page_119"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="WORK_IN_THE_WOODS"></a><h2>WORK IN THE WOODS.</h2>
+
+<p>The worker in the forests is of necessity an early riser, the nature of
+his task requiring that he should be up betimes. His preparations for
+breakfast are simple, and he is ready to start out after half an hour
+spent in imbibing a few mat&eacute;s full of yerba infusion. The cartmen tie in
+their bullocks, kept overnight in a corral, and drive off to bring in
+wood prepared by the axemen, the bullock-herd takes his charges to
+pasture and the men's employer mounts his horse to visit the camp of his
+axemen, or goes to the store to fetch meat and provisions. The axemen
+generally live in tents or temporary shelters, convenient to their work,
+and some distance from the contractor's rancho. They have to work hard,
+stripped to the waist in summer; they fell the trees, and either square
+the logs for baulks and sleepers, or cut the bark and outside layer of
+white wood off to make logs for export, working by moonlight when the
+heat of the day is excessive. Their food consists of biscuits, called
+Galleta, dried to the consistency of flint; these they soften in soup
+made from fresh meat or dried &quot;Charki.&quot; To this soup is added rice,
+maize, or &quot;Fido's,&quot; which is coarse macaroni.</p>
+
+<p>The favourite roast, called the &quot;Asado,&quot; is made from ribs of beef
+impaled on a stick and placed near the fire till sufficiently cooked.
+This delicacy, usually as hard as nails, is enjoyed by the men, who cut
+off portions, which they hold in their teeth, while, with a jack-knife,
+mouthfuls are sawn off close to the nose, at the risk of shortening that
+organ. Water is drunk, or coffee sweetened liberally with moist sugar.
+This coffee is made in the country, chiefly <a name="Page_122"></a>from beans or maize, with a
+large percentage of chicory to give it body.</p>
+
+<p>It is picturesque to see a long string of carts enter a deposit to the
+sound of pistol cracks from long whips, and to watch the cartmen unload
+the heavy logs.</p>
+
+<p>A cartman will load his cart with logs of a ton and upwards, each with
+the aid of his team of bullocks, placing the chains so that the animals,
+at the desired moment, by advancing a short distance, roll the log from
+the ground on to the cart. In the case of very heavy logs the cart is
+placed upside down on the log, which is then bound to it, and the
+bullocks pull the whole thing over. The distances which have to be
+covered by these carts are considerable, fifteen miles in the day is not
+unusual, changing bullocks once en route, but a great deal depends on
+the roads being dry, as in wet weather the wheels sink up to the hubs in
+the mud and the roads are soon dotted here and there with loads
+abandoned till better conditions enable them to be reloaded and
+delivered at a depository.</p>
+
+<p>These cartmen are hardy fellows and work wet to the skin, covered with
+mud up to their knees, or, again, hidden in the dust from the roads,
+which envelopes the moving carts in a choking cloud.</p>
+
+<p>It is little to be wondered at if the axemen and cartmen, when pay day
+arrives, go in for a spree, which for them usually takes the form of
+gambling, enlivened by dancing and drinking till daylight.</p>
+
+<p>The result of sojourning in the woods does not, as might be expected,
+have the effect of making these men unsociable, and they embrace every
+opportunity of attending a race meeting or dance. When the men are
+excited by drink quarrels are frequent, and the police search them for
+arms before admitting them to a Re-union.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_124"></a>Arms are carried ostensibly as a precaution against meeting with
+Indians and bad characters in the lonely recesses of the forest, and the
+men like to carry a knife and a good revolver, or, better still, a
+Winchester, to enable them to get a shot at any wild animal they may
+come across, the skins of these being much prized. They take a pleasure
+in presenting a visitor with a puma skin or other trophy of the chase.</p>
+
+<p>Among these people one looks for, and finds, the primitive idea of
+hospitality, an unaffected welcome and willingness to give of the best
+they have. Here are men independent by virtue of their labour, which
+gives them sufficient for their daily wants. They have no thought for
+the morrow or what will be their lot when too feeble to work.</p>
+
+<p>The axemen, who are natives of Italy and Austria, are very good workmen,
+but compare unfavourably with natives of the country, being extremely
+dirty in their persons, to such a degree that it is a disagreeable
+experience to have to interview them in an office, whereas the Argentine
+native puts on his best apparel when he goes to an estancia.</p>
+
+<p>The forest workers are nomads, and, as the woods get cut out, move on to
+fresh camping grounds, leaving the woods to revert to their former
+solitude, a haunt for the wild animals, who creep back once silence has
+returned.</p><a name="Page_125"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="CACHAPES_AND_OTHER_THINGS"></a><h2>CACHAP&Eacute;S, AND OTHER THINGS.</h2>
+
+<p>To a man coming from the Southern Camps to the forest belt of Santa F&eacute;,
+the cachap&eacute; must appeal as something peculiar to the district, and most
+essentially local. He has had a surfeit of carts with two wheels, each
+12 feet high, and dragged by anything from sixteen to twenty-eight
+horses; Russian carts, like Thames punts on four wheels, no longer amuse
+him, while American spring carts are much too European to warrant
+unslinging the Kodak. But the cachap&eacute;&mdash;here is something not to be
+lightly passed over. Lying idle it may not strike him at first sight as
+a cart, but rather as a remnant of some revolution, when, tired of
+waging light operatic war, the army disbanded, leaving their
+gun-carriages to serve more peaceful purposes.</p>
+
+<p>Two pairs of short, squat, enormously powerful wheels; between, and
+joining them, a roughly hewn pole and various chains in an apparently
+hopeless tangle. Yet see them in work&mdash;every niche doing its work, every
+chain taking ten per cent, more strain than it was ever intended to
+take, creaking, groaning, crashing into holes, crawling laboriously over
+snaps and trunks to fall again with its load of four tons with a
+jerking, swaying, and straining as though struggling to free itself from
+its load, and you recognise the <i>raison d'&ecirc;tre</i> of the queer little
+cart.</p>
+
+<p>The capach&eacute; is not without its humorous moments. Supposing the cartmen
+find a log too heavy to load in the ordinary way; they do not return and
+inform the boss that the log must be hoisted by mechanical means or
+propose high-priced cranes. Seeing that obviously they can't put the log
+on the cart, they accept the alternative and put the cart on the <a name="Page_128"></a>log,
+chain it on securely, then haul everything right side up again with the
+bullocks and proceed to the unloading station. Once there, it might be
+supposed that they would tumble the cart over again, but here the
+intelligent foreigner is misled. The correct proceeding now is for the
+cartmen to lie on their backs and push with their feet, after the manner
+of the gentlemen in music halls, who, reclining on sawed-off sofas,
+twiddle gold-spangled spheres with their toes; only our cartmen lie in
+water and mud and the gold-spangled sphere is changed for a three-ton
+log. The force the men can exert in this position is little short of
+marvellous. Out one crawls, reviews the situation, then back again
+under, a creak, a combined push, and over the wheels comes the log,
+throwing up the mud and water for 50 feet around. Then back they go
+again for another load six miles through the forest. Wet through, their
+clothes hanging in ribbons from shoulders and belt, one day's mud caking
+on another's, and with a long sword stuck through their belt in front,
+they present a figure comical enough were it not that one knew the other
+side of the picture.</p>
+
+<p>Reeking with inherited consumption, they live the one life which is
+certain to kill them before they are forty. Wet through and chilled,
+they are called upon again and again to suddenly exert enormous
+strength, since no man can desert his cart. He must &quot;get there.&quot; He must
+get out of his trouble. He eats largely when and how he can, and when he
+has saved any money the merry &quot;Taba&quot; bone charms it from him in a way
+too universal perhaps to call for any remark. Sometimes he finishes his
+carting days through too decided opinions as to the other man's
+integrity in playing &quot;Taba&quot;; sometimes on his canvas bed in a hut of mud
+and branches, his browny yellow face and sunken eyes asking no pity,
+betraying no emotion; in either case he is rarely over thirty-five and
+often leaves a wife and children.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_129"></a>I say &quot;wife and children,&quot; since it sounds the usual thing; but, as a
+matter of strict fact, the ceremony of getting married is deprecated
+among them, as it signifies &quot;Putting on side,&quot; and is only resorted to
+when they are in a village and there is a chance that the presents that
+are given will more than compensate the tremendous expense they have to
+go to. Speaking to a gentleman of this kidney, I was informed that when
+the cross-eyed blacksmith Strike got married, it cost him three dollars
+and a-half (say 5s.) in fire crackers alone, and my informant went on to
+say that the only case he knew of where marriage had been really
+successful was that of the fair-haired carpenter, who was married and
+asked all the bosses on the place, who each gave something, with which
+he was able to buy a sewing machine for the eldest girl, then aged six.</p>
+
+<p>But, mark you, lest you should judge them lightly, remember that their
+unwritten pact is just as binding to them as our formal marriage tie is
+to us, and that in their way they are probably better husbands and
+fathers than your Balham clerk. In their young days they may chop and
+change, which changes are generally marked by little iron crosses in the
+woods, but, once they have settled down, desertion is far rarer than in
+civilised countries. I have seen a native workman with his shoulder
+blade in his arm-pit, his face cut to ribbons, and with pieces of
+casting sticking to his back through the carrying away of a crane, cavil
+against the idea of being taken into the township where the doctor was,
+lest his old woman, unused to a town life, should find the surroundings
+uncongenial. This in a broken, muttered whisper, twelve hours after the
+accident had happened, during which time every new arrival had been
+called upon to witness the peculiar nature of his injuries.</p>
+
+<p>Much has been said about the terrible wickedness of the <a name="Page_130"></a>lower-class
+native, his gambling, his immorality, his almost fanatical desire to
+murder everyone he sees; and for complete and detailed lists of crimes
+and monstrosities appeal to any newcomer, who will be delighted to hold
+forth on the subject; but when one has lived with them and worked with
+them under varying conditions, and has suffered in some degree what they
+suffer, one hesitates to condemn them offhand.</p>
+
+<p>Blackguards they are&mdash;but manly, humorous blackguards. Immoral, one must
+confess them to be, according to our lights, but even in England &quot;Custom
+from time immemorial&quot; is held as law.</p>
+
+<p>The vast majority will steal raw hide gear as a cat steals fish, but
+will not touch your money, much as in a community of young men property
+is common to all with the same exception. They will lie if scared, or
+rather will substitute for the truth something they think you would like
+to hear, and they will do as little work as you will let them.</p>
+
+<p>But, have a bad case of sickness in the house and ask a man to go out at
+midnight with the carriage to get the doctor, or to go on horseback on
+his own horse twenty miles for medicine, and he goes as quietly and
+pleasantly as though he were going about the most commonplace work. He
+expects no tip, no extra wage, nor is he lauded as a hero. He may have
+come down, horse and all, in the dark, but is happy if he has not
+smashed the bottle of medicine, and he resumes his work on return, just
+as if he hadn't been up all night riding at a hard canter over broken
+ground full of holes and snags.</p>
+
+<p>No, he is by no means an ideal worker, neither is he half so bad as he's
+painted, and I'd rather meet him in the next world than lots of men who
+boss him in this.</p><a name="Page_131"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="MY_FRIEND_THE_AXEMAN"></a><h2>MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.</h2><a name="Page_133"></a>
+
+
+
+<p>Eighty square leagues of dense forest. One is inclined to feel a trifle
+small and overcome when this fraction of Mother Earth is put into one's
+hands (metaphorically), with orders to know all about it and to be able
+to answer all questions as to what is going on in it.</p>
+
+<p>The work is like most other occupations: not quite so romantic as it
+sounds at first, but as interesting as one cares to make it.</p>
+
+<p>One's main employment can best be illustrated by a leaf out of a mental
+diary.</p>
+
+<p>Fulano de Tal, axeman, wants credit for provisions at the almacen or
+general store&mdash;Has he sufficient wood cut to warrant it? It is the
+Mayor-domo's business to find out.</p>
+
+<p>With this end in view, he rides along &quot;The Mangy&quot; watercourse till he
+comes to the lowland of &quot;The Blind Cow.&quot; The barking of half a dozen
+mongrel curs leads him into the edge of the forest, and he comes upon
+the residence of Fulano de Tal. The man has perhaps recently moved to
+this spot, and has not had time or energy to build himself a &quot;rancho,&quot;
+and therefore the homestead consists of about four yards of canvas
+stretched across the branch of a tree like the roof of a tent.</p>
+
+<p>Beneath this is a &quot;New Home&quot; sewing machine, a Brummagem bedstead, and a
+small trunk, made burglar-proof by innumerable bands and fastenings of
+bright tin, or even gilt wall-paper. Scattered around are the little
+Fulanos, in costumes varying from nothing to very little.</p>
+
+<p>Their mother ceases her cooking operations, wipes her hands on the
+nearest child's head, and invites the visitor to dismount.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_134"></a>He answers that he is looking for her husband, and she directs him with
+a sweep of the hand which covers a quadrant of the compass and includes
+several square leagues of thick forest. Taking a likely track, however,
+he soon hears the ring of axe-strokes, and finds his man patiently
+chipping away at a felled tree, which is rapidly taking the form of a
+baulk, with the sides as smooth as if sawn.</p>
+
+<p>His horse is tied up near, and he takes the Mayor-domo through his
+&quot;corte,&quot; showing him the wood prepared for the carters. Give him a
+chance and he will count every log twice (most likely he has already
+plastered mud over the marks which show the rotten patch in the wood,
+and is wondering whether he has cleared the black sufficiently off a
+piece of &quot;campana&quot; to persuade a reasonable man that it is really fresh
+wood).</p>
+
+<p>It is part of the inspector's stock in trade to know these and a myriad
+other tricks, too numerous to take separately.</p>
+
+<p>The typical axeman in the Santa F&eacute; Chaco is more genuinely &quot;childlike&quot;
+than, and quite as &quot;bland&quot; as, the famous Celestial. He never quite
+grows up; he will spend his last dollar on a mouth-organ when he is
+forty, and give a wild war-whoop of delight as a stack of newly piled
+sleepers falls crashing to the ground.</p>
+
+<p>He loves sweets and the bright clothes which he wears with childish
+dignity on feast-days and holidays.</p>
+
+<p>His <i>amour propre</i> is tremendous, and influences his code of honour to a
+great extent. The first ten commandments he will break most cheerfully,
+but the eleventh&mdash;&quot;Thou shalt not be found out&quot;&mdash;he respects to the best
+of his power.</p>
+
+<p>Stealing, for instance, he regards as a pastime, but call him a thief
+and you must be prepared for trouble. A perfect instance of this can be
+quoted in the case of an estanciero who found a peon wearing one of his
+shirts.</p>
+
+<a name="Square_Quebracho_Logs_worked_by_the_Axeman_showing_Resin_oozing_therefrom"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image16.png" width="457" height="410" alt="Square Quebracho Logs worked by the Axeman, showing
+Resin oozing therefrom." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Square Quebracho Logs worked by the Axeman, showing
+Resin oozing therefrom.</h4>
+
+<a name="Page_135"></a>
+<p>&quot;You are wearing my shirt,&quot; said the master. &quot;No, Se&ntilde;or; I bought it in
+the store.&quot; &quot;But you stole it from me,&quot; insisted the estanciero,
+pointing to the tab at the front, where his name was written in marking
+ink; &quot;there is my name on it.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The man, being quite illiterate, had not reckoned on such damning
+evidence, but he recovered himself and replied with dignity: &quot;Very well,
+Se&ntilde;or; if it is yours, take it; <i>but don't call me a thief</i>.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Honesty is with them, admittedly, a matter of degree. A man will always
+say if questioned about some small deficiency, &quot;Do you think I would
+swindle you for a matter of two dollars?&quot; or &quot;Do you think I would risk
+my credit with the Company for the sake of <i>one</i> calf?&quot; To be honest in
+a case where a larger profit is involved is a height of integrity to
+which he does not even pretend. &quot;I am going to be frank with you&quot;&mdash;that
+is an expression which puts the wise man on his guard, for it is
+generally followed by a cascade of lies.</p>
+
+<p>Business must be done on a completely different basis to that which
+obtains in England. To return to our friend Fulano, for instance: he
+wishes perhaps to ask for an increase of fifty cents per ton on his
+wood, and introduces the subject by a short conversation about the
+points of his horse, passing on to the bad state of the bullocks and
+enlarging on the chance of a rainy winter. You have just decided that he
+has nothing more to say and are preparing to leave him, when he makes
+his request with as much circumlocution as possible. To have come
+straight to the point would have been contrary to all his ideas of
+correct procedure.</p>
+
+<p>I have heard two natives make one another's acquaintance with a bout of
+verbal sparring which an Englishman would obviate by a single sentence,
+such as &quot;Good <a name="Page_138"></a>morning; Mr. Brown, I believe?&quot; &quot;Yes,&quot; the other would
+answer, and the business would be entered upon immediately.</p>
+
+<p>The Spanish blood, however, calls for some such dialogue as the
+following, which is taken from real life.</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;Good day.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Good day.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;How are you, Se&ntilde;or?&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Very well, thank you, Se&ntilde;or; how are you?&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;Very well, thank you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;I am glad.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;Equally.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Don't mention it.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;I am speaking to Mr. Juan Sosa?&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;At your service.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;At yours.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Equally.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>A.</i>&mdash;&quot;It gives me great pleasure to know you.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><i>B.</i>&mdash;&quot;Equally.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>They are flowery always, whether in greeting, praise, commendation, or
+in denunciation.</p>
+
+<p>In illustration of the last point, I once heard a cartman give vent to a
+quite Olympic challenge.</p>
+
+<p>His cart had stuck in a deep rut up to the axles, and he commenced
+operations by addressing his bullocks with tender words and soft names
+swiftly followed by lurid curses. This proving useless, he invoked
+higher powers, and called on his pet saints by name&mdash;&quot;Help me, San
+Pedro, San Geronimo, Santa Lucia, San Juan.&quot; Still no result:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>Then his patience failed entirely&mdash;&quot;If you won't help me, San Pedro,&quot; he
+shouted, &quot;come down and I'll fight you;&quot; &quot;Come down, San Juan, and I'll
+take you both on together.&quot;</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_139"></a>Still no reply.</p>
+
+<p>Taking his hat off he placed it on the ground, made the motion of
+clawing his guardians from the skies and placing them in his hat.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Stay there, San Geronimo; Stay there, San Juan; Stay there, San Marco.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>When his hat was full enough for his satisfaction he leapt into the air,
+came down on it with both feet, and continued to dance on it for about
+three minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, for a real or imagined slight, the streak of black blood will show
+up and convert a friend into a relentless enemy.</p>
+
+<p>It is not surprising when one considers the lack of civilising
+influences which ought to be exerted from the top downwards, but which
+have no root in the highest power they know, which is the arm of the
+law. It might be interesting to note a few proofs of the corruption
+which exists among those who wield the local weapons of justice&mdash;among
+the commissaries, police, and justices of the peace.</p>
+
+<p>The Chief of Police of&mdash;&mdash;, for instance, a town of only about 7,000
+inhabitants, refused &pound;2,000 a year for the local gambling rights.</p>
+
+<p>Again, a gardener, whom I knew, was put in jail for being drunk and
+disorderly. On going to the place some time later I found the man still
+imprisoned. &quot;Why,&quot; I asked, &quot;for such a small offence&quot;? &quot;We found,&quot; was
+the answer, &quot;that when sober he was such a good workman that we could
+not spare him from the job of cleaning the stables.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, a friend of mine was dissatisfied with the policeman
+he had, and sent the sergeant into the township to exchange him for
+another. The man returned with a particularly villainous-looking
+specimen, and when <a name="Page_140"></a>asked where he had got him, explained that the Chief
+of Police had told him to look among the prisoners for a suitable man,
+give him a uniform and take him.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I thought this was the best of them; but they all wanted to come,&quot; he
+concluded ingenuously.</p>
+
+<p>Another commissary in the north of this country flattered himself on his
+revolver-shooting, and used to perform the feat of shooting the hat off
+a man's head without hurting him. He was in the local bar one day when a
+peon entered with a brand new white hat; it was an opportunity not to be
+missed. Crack&mdash;and the man fell with a bullet through his temple instead
+of his hat.</p>
+
+<p>Did the Comis&aacute;rio stand stricken with remorse, or burst into
+self-reproach? No. He moved the body with the toe of his boot and
+remarked: &quot;Carramba, I am getting a very poor shot nowadays.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>A story which was told me in the province of Rio Negro, and which was
+well vouched for, contained serio-comic elements of which I believe the
+perpetrator, whom I knew personally, quite capable.</p>
+
+<p>An old man who owned a considerable quantity of land, died intestate. A
+man who lived with him, Garcia by name, had no idea of letting the
+property go to distant unknown relations, and concocted the following
+plot (obviously with the connivance of the neighbouring Justice of the
+Peace, who was a friend of his).</p>
+
+<p>The law allows that a sane man &quot;in articulo mortis,&quot; and past the power
+of speech, may make statements by signs: so when the Justice was
+summoned to the house, Garcia told him that the man was not yet dead,
+and wished to make his will.</p>
+
+<p>Garcia seated himself at the foot of the bed, while the Justice at the
+side addressed questions to the deceased on the following lines:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<a name="Page_141"></a>Do you wish me to record your last will and testament?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The corpse nodded.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you wish your property to pass into your cousins' hands?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The head moved from side to side.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Do you intend to make Garcia your sole legatee?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The deceased nodded several times.</p>
+
+<p>Two witnesses were brought, and the business was settled with
+commendable promptitude.</p>
+
+<p>I think it was Garcia himself who explained, some time afterwards, that
+as the dead man wore a full beard and whiskers, it was easy enough to
+hide the strings passing from his ears and chin to the foot of the bed
+under the coverings.</p>
+
+<p>In this connection I have since heard that one of the legal ceremonies
+in a coroner's inquest in Central America is to solemnly ask the
+deceased who killed him.</p>
+
+<p>To return to the point, however; if such things exist among those in the
+highest positions of trust it is not surprising to find wholesale
+chicanery among the lower orders; that they realise their shortcomings
+is evidenced by the fact that if they wish to impress you with the truth
+of a statement, they add &quot;palabra de Ingles,&quot; i.e., &quot;on the word of an
+Englishman.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Their Indian descent is answerable for a great deal, the white and black
+blood being so mixed that it is almost impossible to note the dividing
+line. Their dusky ancestors were blessed with an extremely limited
+intelligence, only being able to count up to four. The following
+incidents were related to me by an old estanciero. He once saw a
+trainload of Indian prisoners who had had oranges given them throwing
+the skins against the windows and showing great surprise when they fell
+inside.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_142"></a>In another instance a woman came with her daughter to place her in
+domestic service at the estancia, and as the mother did all the talking,
+the estanciero's wife asked if the daughter could speak Spanish.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Oh, yes,&quot; answered the mother, &quot;but she is barefoot, and would not
+presume to talk Spanish unless she had shoes on.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>This same girl at first insisted on turning up the carpet whenever she
+entered a room and walking along the boards at the side.</p>
+
+<p>I fear that I have given a black character to the people I work among,
+but there are lights as well as shades, and I have had many a weary
+hour's ride wiled away by the philosophy and anecdotes of some peon or
+small contractor, without mentioning the enjoyment of that hospitality
+which is a characteristic of the nation.</p>
+
+<p>Beside a camp fire, under the stars, while the mat&eacute; pot passes from hand
+to hand, or when huddled under a horse cloth with the rain dousing the
+last embers, I have found the Correntino, or Santa Fecino, a cheery and
+uncomplaining companion, who compares well with the recently arrived
+Englishman, who, under the same circumstances, is generally sleepy or
+bad tempered.</p>
+
+<p>Treat him well and he will treat you well, but if it is necessary to
+chasten him for his soul's good, keep your hand a little nearer to your
+revolver than his is to his knife.</p>
+
+
+
+<a name="Page_143"></a>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="DUST_AND_OTHER_STORMS"></a><h2>DUST AND OTHER STORMS.</h2>
+<br />
+
+<p>Life in South America has many and varied experiences, though not so
+uncomfortably exciting perhaps to-day as they were, when more than three
+years seldom passed without a revolution of some kind, either national
+or provincial. The year 1893 was marked by two revolutions in Rosario,
+the first provincial and the second national, with perhaps little more
+than two months between them. It sounds terribly alarming to hear that a
+revolution has broken out, and pictures of the French Revolution
+immediately rise before one, but, fortunately, those of South American
+cities are not of that calibre; reports and rumours fly about of the
+terrible things that are going to be done, but these generally end in
+rumour, and after a few persons, those who have nothing to do with the
+movement, have been killed, probably by soldiers letting off their
+rifles up some street just on the chance of hitting something (often
+that at which they are <i>not</i> aiming), the revolution fizzles out very
+quickly.</p>
+
+<p>In the second revolution of 1893 great excitement was caused in Rosario
+by a revolutionary gunboat being pursued by a Government boat and a
+naval battle (!) being fought on the river outside Rosario. These two
+boats blazed away at each other till the revolutionary gunboat was
+reduced to a wreck; the Government boat then threatened to turn its guns
+on Rosario unless the revolutionists capitulated. The town was given
+twenty-four hours to decide, and, after various disasters, including a
+terrible battle, had been threatened, as usual the revolution came to a
+sudden end, on this particular occasion owing to the revolutionist
+leader,<a name="Page_146"></a> D. Alem, committing suicide. That same year, 1893,
+distinguished itself by drawing to a close with three of the most
+terrible dust storms ever seen in a country that, after any lengthened
+period of dry weather, suffers from dust storms of a greater or lesser
+degree. The first of these occurred early in December, after many months
+of drought, on a brilliantly sunny afternoon. Standing at the front door
+of a house at Fisherton, a suburb about six miles from Rosario, we
+noticed right down in the S.W., on the horizon, great banks of
+grey-looking clouds, which, to our surprise, seemed to be rolling
+rapidly up the sky towards us. They had a most alarming appearance, for
+these masses of grey cloud approaching so rapidly seemed to portend a
+storm of terrible force. In less than twenty minutes from the time we
+first saw the clouds the afternoon had changed from brilliant sunshine
+to pitchy darkness. So rapidly had the darkness come on us that no one
+was prepared, and no matches or lights were forthcoming; so there we
+stood in a room in absolute darkness, no glimmer of light even revealing
+where the windows were situated in the room. Though all doors and
+windows were closely shut, we could feel the dust entering in clouds
+through the cracks, making it quite unpleasant breathing. When the storm
+caught us we had to stand and wait, I must own with some fear as to how
+it was going to end. Up to this time the storm had come up and fallen on
+us in total silence: now, after about ten minutes of pitch darkness, we
+could hear in the far distance the wind coming. It came up with cyclonic
+force, and then everything in the way of tins and buckets began to be
+blown in every direction, and the horses to gallop about neighing,
+evidently very much frightened. The wind was the forerunner of the rain,
+which gradually began to clear the air, though, of course, for some time
+it rained mud, much to the detriment of the houses, and to anyone
+<a name="Page_147"></a>unfortunate enough to be caught out of doors in the storm; indeed, one
+of our friends, who insisted on starting for the station just as the
+storm descended on us, was found crouching under his umbrella by one of
+the posts of the railway fence, with a face as black as a sweep's, and,
+by then, deeply repentant that he had started for the station against
+advice. Indeed, many caught out in camp by the storm lost their lives
+through falling into wells, and, in some cases, the river. But,
+fortunately, nowadays&mdash;principally, I fancy, owing to the larger area of
+country under cultivation&mdash;these dust storms do not recur.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="LOCUSTS"></a><h2>LOCUSTS.</h2>
+
+<p>During the past century considerable study has been centred upon the
+life and habits of the locust, mainly from the desire to seek its
+subjugation and destruction, and, whilst much general biological
+information has been written upon the subject, there are things which we
+do not yet know about this insect or its habits. We do not know what
+precise influences cause their migration, nor do we know what is the
+exact length of life of the locust or its breeding power, or the precise
+locality in any country which may be defined as its permanent abode.
+Locusts are classified under the order of orthopterous insects of the
+family Acrydiidae, and are very closely related to grasshoppers.</p>
+
+<p>There are a large number of species, the differentiating features being
+more or less the form and sculpture of protorax, the size of the head,
+the length and size of the prosternal spine, the comparative length and
+size of the hind thighs and shanks, the amount and arrangement of the
+tegmina mottlings, the comparative length of wings, and the general
+build of the entire insect, which may be robust or fairly slender.</p>
+
+<p>A general description of the distinctive physical features of migratory
+locusts might be given as a strong, wild-looking head, a strong collar
+inside which the neck moves, powerful and peculiarly-formed legs
+attached to a short, strong, square trunk or thorax, four wings, two
+antennae or feelers, six legs, and a long segmentary abdomen. The ground
+colour of the locust is generally brownish, straw, or red, but its
+colour varies somewhat according to the <a name="Page_150"></a>particular season of the year
+or some other peculiar circumstance, but nothing certain is known as to
+what influences the shade of colour. Mere ground colour is immaterial
+and does not signify a new species.</p>
+
+<p>Besides having a pair of compound eyes which form so noticeable a
+feature in its head, there are three other simple little eyes, placed
+like shining dots at three angles of a triangle below the two feelers.</p>
+
+<p>The mouth, which is a fearful apparatus, consists of nine distinct and
+well-marked organs; an interior or upper lip, consisting of a plate
+deeply cleft and capable of opening enormously; two true jaws or
+powerful mandibles; and two pairs of jointed organs called (maxillary)
+palpi, and two lower jaws. The mandibles and jaws move laterally from
+right to left.</p>
+
+<p>The thorax or trunk consists really of three rings. To the first is
+attached the two front legs; to the second, the two middle legs and the
+first pair of wings, and to the third, the two hind legs and the second
+pair of posterior wings. Along the posterior margin is a well marked
+serrated (spinous) arrangement by means of which the locust adheres and
+grips forcibly. The trunk appears to be full of a fatty sort of
+substance.</p>
+
+<p>The abdomen consists of a number of horny segments which are joined
+together by an elastic membrane, a construction which enables the insect
+to extend its body several centimetres beyond its normal extent. It can
+also be increased in thickness.</p>
+
+<p>The front and middle feet of this insect are short and weak, but the
+length, strength, and formation of the hind legs enable it to take
+extraordinary leaps. A full-grown locust can jump seven or eight feet in
+height, whilst it is said to be able to leap more than 200 times the
+length of its body.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_151"></a>The female is normally larger by &frac14; or &frac12; inch in length than the
+male, and has a rather thicker body.</p>
+
+<p>The average length of the migratory locust is from 2&frac12; to 3 inches and
+about &#8540; inch in thickness in the abdomen. Locusts generally lay their
+eggs in the spring, and the manner in which the females, having selected
+a favourable site, make an excavation in the earth for depositing their
+eggs is intensely interesting and wonderful.</p>
+
+<p>At the very extremity of the abdomen the female has two pairs of horny
+valves or hooks, each pair placed back to back with their points
+directed outwards, and arranged so that all four hooks can be brought
+with their points close together. By this means a sharp pointed lever is
+formed which can be turned around, evolved, and forked. With this
+apparatus she drills a small hole and by means of a series of muscular
+efforts and the continuing opening and closing of the valves provided
+with the formation of the abdomen, she actually bores to a depth of 6 to
+7 centimetres, or about 3 inches. Here she deposits her eggs&mdash;normally
+about eighty&mdash;regularly arranged in a long cylindrical mass and
+envelopes them in a spumous or sort of glutinous secretion, so that the
+whole are quite tapped up and level with the surface of the ground. This
+substance when dried is more or less impassable and affords protection
+to the eggs from the elements and secures an easy outlet to the surface
+for the young locust when hatched. The eggs resemble in shape grains of
+small rice and are about &frac14; inch long.</p>
+
+<p>The eggs hatch in from twenty-five to sixty days, usually about forty
+days, but the period may vary a little according to temperature,
+humidity, etc. The young locusts are known as &quot;hoppers,&quot; in which stage
+they pass some forty-five or fifty days before arriving at the fully
+developed stage known as &quot;fliers.&quot; To reach the &quot;flying&quot; or &quot;migratory&quot;
+stage <a name="Page_152"></a>they pass through six different states, changing the colour of
+their skin several times, gradually approaching to full growth, and
+finally growing wings.</p>
+
+<p>They have no quiescent stage, and whilst they are naturally yet
+incapable of flight, their locomotive powers are very considerable, and
+they are very destructive, for their voracity is great. Comparatively
+speaking, the flying locusts do less damage to the growing crops than
+the hoppers, who devour everything clean before them.</p>
+
+<p>It is interesting to state that the &quot;hoppers&quot; in the first stage are in
+length about 7 to 9 mm., or not quite one-third of an inch, and that the
+feelers have thirteen divisions, extending to twenty-seven divisions at
+full growth.</p>
+
+<p>During the cold weather they usually gather together in thousands,
+clinging closely to all kinds of vegetation and to each other. In this
+season the general rule seems to be that comparatively little food is
+taken of any kind. For the purpose of watching the development of their
+eggs, several hundred locusts have been opened during the winter months
+by entomologists, and invariably their cases have been found empty.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the most feasible suggestion as to the cause of their migratory
+impulse is that locusts naturally breed in dry sandy districts in which
+food is scarce, and are thus impelled to wander in order to procure the
+necessaries of life.</p>
+
+<p>The rate of travel varies according to circumstances. With an
+unfavourable wind, or little wind, they seldom travel more than five
+miles an hour. At other times, when the wind is favourable, they will
+cover fifteen to twenty miles per hour. When on the wing it is certain
+that a distance of 1,000 miles may, in particular cases, be taken as a
+moderate estimate of flight, and whilst, probably, it is often much
+less, it is sometimes much more. Their height <a name="Page_153"></a>of flight has been
+variously estimated at from forty to two hundred feet. &quot;A dropping from
+the clouds&quot; is a common expression used by observers when describing the
+apparition of a swarm.</p>
+
+<p>It will not be denied that the presence of locusts in force constitutes
+a terrible plague. They make their appearance in swarms and eat up
+everything. It is wellnigh impossible to estimate the number in a cloud
+of locusts, but some idea may be formed from the fact that when they are
+driven, as sometimes is the case in a storm, into the sea and drowned,
+so many are washed ashore, that it is said by one observer that their
+dead bodies formed a bank of nearly 40 miles long and 300 yards wide,
+and many feet in depth, and the stench from the corruption of their
+bodies proceeded 150 miles inland.</p>
+
+<p>When a swarm of locusts temporarily settles in a district, all
+vegetation rapidly disappears, and then hunger urges them on another
+stage. Such is their voracity that cannibalism amongst them has been
+asserted as an outcome of the failure of other kinds of food.</p>
+
+<p>Locusts have their natural enemies. Many birds greedily devour them, in
+fact a migratory swarm is usually followed by myriads of birds,
+especially sea gulls; they are often found 150 to 200 miles inland.
+Often a flock of gulls will clean up a &quot;manga&quot; of locusts; they devour
+them by thousands, and will then go to a neighbouring laguna, take a
+little water, and throw up all they have eaten, and at a given signal go
+off again to fill up with more locusts, only to repeat the operation
+time after time. Predatory insects of other orders also attack them,
+especially when in the unwinged state. They have still more deadly foes
+in parasites, some of which attack the fully developed locust, but the
+greater number adopt the more insidious method of attacking the eggs.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_154"></a>Many inventions have been brought out with the object of exterminating
+the locusts, some of which, at least, have doubtless been partly
+successful, but determined and combined effort by the nation and land
+proprietors is imperative if the remedial and preventive measures
+proposed are to reap the success hoped for.</p>
+
+<p>The Agricultural Defence Department reports having spent $10,561,540 mn.
+from 1st January, 1909, to 31st May, 1910, in fighting the locusts. The
+total area invaded was 135,000,000 hectares (about 337,500,000 acres).</p>
+
+<p>From 1892 to date, and with what is required for the present year,
+$54,000,000 have been spent in combating locusts and like plagues to
+agriculture.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center><a name="Page_155"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="CONSCRIPT_LIFE_IN_THE_ARGENTINE_REPUBLIC"></a><h2>CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.</h2><a name="Page_157"></a>
+
+
+<p>The life of a conscript is more agreeable than most people in the
+Argentine Republic imagine it to be, although it has its disadvantages
+as well as its advantages.</p>
+
+<p>Every year all over the Republic a drawing takes place, calling to arms,
+for a year in the Army or two in the Navy, Argentines who have attained
+the age of twenty-one. At an average 12,000 to 15,000 are called out
+every year and distributed in the different regiments, according to
+height; from 1.75 metres upwards to Cavalry, middle height to Infantry,
+and short men to Artillery.</p>
+
+<p>For eight months the troops are drilled daily, and at the end of this
+period a big manoeuvre is held in which every regiment has to take part.
+This manoeuvre is divided into two parts: in the month of September all
+troops pertaining to the I., II., and IV. Regions are mobilised, and in
+November those of the III. and V.</p>
+
+<p>The daily routine is as follows: At 4 a.m. at the call of a bugle all
+troops have to rise, and the roll is called over; at 4.30 a.m. coffee is
+served; at 5.0 every morning orders are given to saddle-up horses and
+arm, and they have to be ready to leave the barracks at 5.30 for morning
+drill on horseback or to go to the shooting range, according to the
+time-table; the drilling continues till 10 o'clock, at which hour the
+troops are due back at the barracks, having to go through a course of
+drilling on foot up till 11 o'clock.</p>
+
+<p>At 11 o'clock the troops have to turn out and clean and brush down their
+horses until 11.30, at which hour lunch is <a name="Page_158"></a>served out; after which they
+are allowed to do as they like (except leave the barracks) till 1.30
+p.m.; from 1.30 to 3 p.m. the troops are drilled on foot, and at 3 p.m.
+&quot;Mat&eacute;-cocido&quot; is served out; at 3.30 they have to attend class until
+4.30 p.m., either on &quot;Campaign Service,&quot; &quot;Military Duties or Laws,&quot; or
+on the &quot;Carabine or Sword&quot;; every other day class is given on the
+different parts of a horse, and on how to look after and clean same.
+From 4.30 to 5.30 p.m. there is revision and cleaning of arms. At 5.30
+dinner is served out, after which those who have leave are allowed out
+until 10 p.m., or in some cases until 4 a.m. next morning.</p>
+
+<p>Those drawn for the Navy have to go through a preliminary course of
+training on shore before being sent on board the training ship
+&quot;Sarmiento,&quot; which every two years leaves Buenos Aires for a trip round
+the world, occupying, on an average, eighteen months.</p>
+
+<p>There are certain allowances made for students, who at the age of
+nineteen are allowed to enlist in the 8th Cavalry, where they have to
+serve for three months. At the end of this period they are put through a
+very severe examination, and should they pass, are promoted to the grade
+of Sub-Lieutenant of the Reserve, having to serve for a month every year
+in a regiment allotted to them.</p>
+
+<p>The advantages of conscription are many. It brings half-breeds from all
+parts of the Republic in touch with civilization, it teaches them
+obedience, respect for their superiors, and, above all, how to shoot.
+After their year's service they leave the barracks knowing a good deal
+more about things in general than when they entered them.</p>
+
+<p>There is also the better class of lads to be considered. Conscription
+teaches them a few things also, viz., to knuckle down (which is a great
+failing of the Anglo-Argentines), and be made to do things which they
+have not <a name="Page_159"></a>been accustomed to, clean out stable, etc., and look after
+their equipment properly, as anything they may happen to lose is
+deducted from their wages, which are very small, $5 per month.</p>
+
+<p>The food in the Army is good and plentiful: there is coffee in the
+morning on rising, a mid-day meal and dinner, which are usually similar,
+consisting of soup and &quot;puchero&quot; (a national dish made of beef and
+vegetables boiled), and an occasional dish of &quot;pulenta&quot; (boiled maize).</p>
+
+<p>The general treatment in the barracks is good. There are cases of
+miscarriage of justice and ill-treatment, but these are rare. A
+conscript may have to suffer punishment although in the right, and is
+not allowed to protest his innocence against an officer until after he
+has completed his punishment.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center><a name="Page_161"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="ACROSS_THE_BOLIVIAN_ANDES_IN_1901"></a><h2>ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901.</h2>
+
+<p>Recollections of a journey from the Peruvian port of Mollendo to the
+Bolivian interior, which the writer made in the year stated, are here
+transcribed. No rhetorical merit is claimed, facts only are related, and
+the compiler of the manuscript only hopes that his efforts may, in part
+at least, justify a cursory perusal, without exhausting the patience of
+the readers, or overtaxing their indulgence. These notes are transcribed
+nearly ten years after the trip was made, and any readers who may have
+visited Bolivia at a more recent date are requested to make allowance
+for such modifications or change of conditions of which they can be the
+only judges.</p>
+
+<p>I have crossed the Andes Chain in other places farther south, in Chile;
+but on this occasion I will confine my observations to the trip as
+headed.</p>
+
+<p>Mollendo is one of the worst ports on the Pacific coast, but is of some
+importance on account of the fact that the railway through Peru to Lake
+Titicaca starts here. All vessels have to lie at least half a mile from
+the land on account of the constant heavy swell, and the landing is
+always attended by a certain amount of danger, so much so that not
+infrequently passengers have to be &quot;slung&quot; on to the landing stage in
+baskets made for the purpose. Like most of the South American coast from
+Valparaiso northwards there is little or no vegetation, and the scenery
+is not of the kind generally associated with tropical climes, of which
+one reads so much. Sand dunes and waste meet the eye on all sides, and
+the traveller for the interior is generally glad when the railway
+journey commences.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_164"></a>Of the country through which the railway takes one there is not much to
+be said, but the attention of the traveller is at once called to the
+marvellous ingenuity of the famous engineer Meiggs, who built the
+railway. Gradually rising as the coast recedes, the train reaches
+Arequipa, at an elevation of 7,500 feet, and distant from Mollendo about
+200 miles. Arequipa has about 45,000 inhabitants, and, while rather
+prettily situated in a small valley surrounded by high volcanoes, it
+does not have anything of particular interest to attract one. Moreover,
+it suffers frequently from earthquakes, which does not surprise one when
+you look at the giant volcano &quot;El Misti,&quot; towering up to 18,000 feet, at
+no great distance off. The houses are all built with &quot;vaulted&quot;
+foundations, the better to resist the &quot;earth-tremblings,&quot; but on this
+occasion I did not experience any shocks.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Arequipa behind, the ascent continues until the highest point is
+reached at Crucero Alto, where a notice board indicates that we are now
+14,666 feet above sea level. It is before reaching this altitude that
+the wonderful enterprise of the engineer shows up. The line goes on
+winding and climbing, twisting back again but always ascending, for
+hours, until a point is reached where passengers, looking down from the
+carriage windows, may see right below them, only a few feet down, the
+actual railway track over which they have passed an hour before. At one
+place there are actually <i>three tracks visible,</i> one right below the
+other, just like steps and stairs, and I believe there is nothing quite
+like it in Argentina. Leaving Crucero Alto the descent is very gradual
+until Puno is reached, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, but still at an
+altitude of 12,000 feet or more. I did not actually see the town, which
+is a short distance from the station, but went straight on board the
+&quot;Coya,&quot; the steamer <a name="Page_165"></a>which was to ferry us across to Chililaya or Puerto
+Perez, on the Bolivian side of the immense lake.<a name="FNanchor_F_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_F_6"><sup>[F]</sup></a> The distance in this
+direction is about 110 miles, and the passage was made in ten hours,
+during the night, so that I had not on this occasion an opportunity of
+seeing the surrounding scenery.</p>
+
+<p>On another occasion I saw too much of it, as the steamer missed the
+canalized strip which extends several miles out from Puno, and we
+remained hard aground for thirty hours. We had over a hundred Japanese
+passengers&mdash;immigrants going to the rubber country&mdash;and all armed with
+huge revolvers; but as the food lasted out until we were relieved by
+another small steamer belonging to the railway company they were kept in
+good humour, and they gave no trouble at all. Before floating again
+about 100 tons of cargo had to be transhipped to the other steamer, and
+when we again got into the deep channel it was again transferred to the
+s.s. &quot;Coya.&quot; This latter boat was about 150 feet long; it was quite a
+comfortable boat, and the food and bedding were decent, when you
+consider the part of the world you were in. The bill of fare and wine
+list contained many quaint delicacies, and I shall never forget how the
+printer of same spelt the word indicating Scotch wine (commonly known as
+whisky). He was quite phonetic from the Spanish point of view, and the
+word read &quot;G&uuml;iscki,&quot; but it tasted all right.</p>
+
+<p>Landing at the Bolivian side of Puerto Perez, the immense plateau which
+covers all the centre of Bolivia stretches out on all sides landwards,
+until it meets the inner and higher range of the Cordilleras.</p>
+
+<p>La Paz, the then capital of Bolivia, on account of the fact that the
+President, General Pando, lived there, was our <a name="Page_166"></a>next objective point,
+and we found the old &quot;Diligence Coach,&quot; drawn by eight horses, awaiting
+to convey us the forty-two miles across the plain. This part of the
+journey is most uninteresting, and the road was only fair. All along it
+is the same level, stony ground, entirely devoid of trees, and covered
+completely with large, round stones. These latter the Indians have to
+gather in heaps, and thus make some open patches for growing their
+potatoes and grain, which, with their &quot;Chalona,&quot; or sheep dried in the
+sun, are their principal foodstuffs throughout the year. Besides, the
+surplus produce is conveyed to the larger towns on llamas, and there
+realised to the best advantage. It is a very interesting sight every
+Sunday morning to see the &quot;market,&quot; and the curio hunter would just be
+in his element, as not only do the Indians bring in vegetables and
+fruits, but all sorts of native silver in quaint shapes, and ornaments
+made by the Indians themselves can be picked up very cheaply. The
+dresses of the Indian squaws are also very picturesque, and, as far as I
+can remember, red, green, and bright yellow were the dominating colours.
+But I am getting away from the main subject.</p>
+
+<p>Right ahead of us there is the gigantic Illimani, silent and majestic,
+with its perpetually white crown rising 22,000 feet above sea-level. One
+begins to wonder where La Paz can be, as the plain seems to extend right
+to the foot of the mountain. Keeping steadily on, however, the coach
+eventually arrives at the brink of a hitherto unnoticed hollow, and the
+scene that here awaits the traveller is magnificent in the extreme. To
+describe the view baffles my limited vocabulary. There you are looking
+down on the roofs of the houses in La Paz, which lies snugly 1,200 feet
+below you. It just seems that you could drop a stone on to them, so
+precipitate are the cliffs; but it is the enormous drop that deceives
+the eye, because, <a name="Page_167"></a>of the route over which the coach passes, six miles
+have yet to be traversed before getting into the town. I have seen La
+Paz from the top of the &quot;Cuesta&quot; both by day and night, and the latter
+effect, while losing much of its grandeur and magnificence, on account
+of the darkness, almost surpasses in beauty that of the daylight vision.
+The whole city is lit up by electricity, and it just seems as if one
+were gazing <i>down</i> on another firmament, if such a thing can be
+imagined. I repeat, that to fully appreciate this special scenery words
+fail me.</p>
+
+<p>Allow me to transgress once more. On the first occasion that I reached
+the top of the entrance to La Paz it was under rather &quot;sporting&quot;
+circumstances, which, I think, I may be excused for interpolating here.
+I had come on horseback and <i>alone</i> from the mining town of Coro Coro,
+sixty-six miles off, and it is a very hard and tiring journey. The
+elevation above the sea varies from about 14,000 feet to 12,000 feet at
+the La Paz end, and therefore great speed is impossible on account of
+the rarity of the air. Apparently I had journeyed too fast for my horse,
+as the poor animal died when I was still eighteen miles from La Paz.
+Here was a nice &quot;kettle of fish.&quot; It was all right enough as long as
+daylight lasted, but when darkness overtook me I was fairly &quot;in the
+soup.&quot; Not knowing the road, and there being nothing to guide me and no
+one to consult, I simply walked along slowly, hoping to strike up
+against some Indian settlement, and pass the night somehow or other. I
+trudged along for goodness knows how long until I eventually did hear
+some sounds indicating that at any rate I was nearing some encampment or
+habitation. I could hear what was supposed to be music, and in the dark
+made my way, as near as I could judge, in the direction of the sound,
+and in about half an hour my efforts were rewarded, as I had overtaken a
+band of roving<a name="Page_168"></a> Indians, all in fancy dress, playing funny reed
+instruments and dancing continuously as they travelled. They could not
+speak Spanish, but at that time I knew sufficient of their
+language&mdash;&quot;Aymara,&quot; as it is called&mdash;and soon explained to them my
+position. I was allowed to accompany them, as I found they also were
+bound for La Paz, and soon became a lifelong friend of theirs when I
+produced a small bottle of whisky which I had with me. The experience
+was of a unique nature for a white man, but I must confess I rather
+appreciated the novelty than otherwise, and when I reached La Paz about
+1 a.m. I felt that I had had quite an adventure, which might easily have
+had a more sinister termination, had my Indian escort shown the other
+side of their nature. Well, to come back to our old coach, which I think
+I left at the top of the La Paz entrance, I resumed my seat and got into
+the city at mid-day. I put up at an excellent hotel, of which there were
+several, and at once bethought me of looking for work, as the balance in
+my bank (otherwise my pocket) did not warrant my looking upon my visit
+to La Paz as one of pleasure only. At the time I write of there was one
+solitary Britisher resident in La Paz, and he was a Scotchman like
+myself. This was before the railway from Oruro was built, and he was
+proprietor of the coaches that ran, once a week, from La Paz to the
+south; and I understood had quite a remunerative business. La Paz is a
+peculiarly situated city, as the reader may imagine from my description
+of its position. The streets are mostly hilly and steep, with the
+exception of one or two which run parallel to each other on both sides
+of the valley, at the foot of, and in the centre of which flows, the La
+Paz river. This it bridged in about half a dozen places for horse
+traffic, and while, for most of the year, there is scarcely any water in
+the river, when <a name="Page_169"></a>the snow melts it is converted into a veritable roaring
+torrent; and I happened to be present during one of the most serious
+accidents that had ever occurred from this cause.</p>
+
+<p>It had rained very copiously for some days, and the river had risen
+enormously&mdash;in fact higher than ever before recorded&mdash;and many were the
+predictions as to how the bridges would stand the weight of water. The
+usual sightseers were about, and, unfortunately, a large number of them
+paid the penalty with their lives. They had been duly warned that a
+certain bridge was dangerous and threatened to give way, but this
+evidently excited their curiosity all the more; at any rate, a crowd
+tried to cross, with the result that the bridge tumbled into the raging
+stream, carrying with it over 200 people, and many of them were
+drowned&mdash;the exact number was never known.</p>
+
+<p>Quite an important city is La Paz, and a large number of wealthy
+mine-owners reside there, drawing their incomes from rich tin mines in
+the neighbourhood. There are also numerous stores from which the wants
+of the distant population that reside in the rubber country are
+supplied. The larger proportion of the inhabitants are Indians, and I
+cannot help remarking that the Bolivian Indians, men and women, are
+about the ugliest type of human creatures I have yet seen. Besides, they
+are very illiterate, and it is estimated that, of the total population
+of Bolivia, only about 30 per cent. can read or write. In the south,
+Aymara is chiefly spoken; but further north, Quechua is the commoner
+language. I saw several bull fights in the bullring of which the town
+boasts, but they were so very disgusting that I refrain from nauseating
+my readers with details.</p>
+
+<p>The Cathedral was only half completed when I was there, and I understand
+is still in the same condition. I <a name="Page_170"></a>was forgetting to mention that there
+was no British Minister or Consul in La Paz, and the story goes that, at
+some previous period, a Bolivian President compelled the British
+official representative to ride round the plaza seated on a donkey, but
+with his face to the tail; the consequence being that the Prime Minister
+of Great Britain figuratively wiped Bolivia off the map. Anything which
+we required from the Diplomatic Service had to be obtained through the
+medium of the British Minister resident in Lima, in Peru. This may now
+be altered, but I am not aware of the fact. I remained several months in
+La Paz in the employment of a Bolivian magnate, but the remuneration not
+being commensurate with my ambitions, I eventually arranged to accompany
+the proprietor of a very large rubber forest on a trip to his properties
+on the higher reaches of the River Amazon, and hence my privilege of
+being able to offer you a perusal of my experiences across the inner
+ranges of the Cordillera mountains. His daughter also accompanied him,
+and, although the journey is a most uncomfortable one in more ways than
+one, she stood the fatigue of many days' riding on mule-back, over
+trails which did not deserve the name of roads, just about as well as
+any of the rest of us.</p>
+
+<p>For a trip of this kind many provisions have to be made, as very little
+indeed can be procured on the journey in the way of good food or
+lodging. We accordingly had to carry our beds and bedding, and in fact
+everything we could think of in the form of clothes, food, firearms,
+and, of course, the necessary accompaniment in liquid form. Most of our
+baggage and what we might not require at a moment's notice we sent on
+ahead with a day's anticipation, and eventually on the 20th May, 1901,
+our caravan departed from the then capital of Bolivia, at 8 a.m. Our
+conveyance, to start with, consisted of a coach drawn by four mules, and
+<a name="Page_171"></a>it took much longer to climb the steep &quot;Cuesta&quot; than it had taken us to
+descend on previous occasions already mentioned. However, our animals
+were good and in about an hour and a-half we reached the top of the
+hill, and I took what proved to be my last view of La Paz City.</p>
+
+<p>The journey for the first forty miles is over the same ground as I have
+already referred to, in the direction of Lake Titicaca, and there is
+nothing more to be said about it, beyond that we changed animals at a
+place called Ocomisto, this being simply a few Indian huts where there
+is always a supply of grain and water for the animals, and the ordinary
+country fare for the passing traveller. There was a long journey ahead
+of us, so we only remained during the time that was occupied in
+outspanning the tired mules and inspanning the fresh lot. At 1 o'clock
+we reached Machacamarca, another &quot;tambo&quot; or resting-place, and were very
+disgusted to find that our pack animals, which we had dispatched the day
+before, had got no farther than this point. Our desired destination for
+the night was the Indian town of Achicachi, twelve leagues off, but as
+it was now quite out of the question to think of travelling our baggage
+animals so far before night should overtake us, we had to change our
+plans and therefore directed our coach towards Guarina, another Indian
+town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but much nearer than Achicachi, and
+we eventually arrived there at 5 p.m., having covered, more or less,
+fifty miles since morning. The journey seemed longer, as the country is
+so much alike all along the route; but as the roads were fair,
+travelling was quite comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>Guarina is purely an Indian fishing village, and the only white people
+are the Bolivian half-caste authorities. As I have already stated, there
+are no hotels or even lodging-houses in these Indian towns, and ordinary
+travellers have just to hunt about until they find a place suitable to
+put <a name="Page_172"></a>beds for the night. However, as my friend was a &quot;personage&quot; in
+Bolivia, in other words, a man of position and power in political
+circles, we of course fared considerably better than we should otherwise
+have done had he not been with us; and we were invited to put up in the
+house of one of these men in authority. He did his best for us in their
+frugal way of living, and gave us a meal consisting of &quot;Chairo,&quot; which
+is soup as black as coal, and made from frozen potatoes which are called
+&quot;chuno.&quot; These are about the size of walnuts, hard and black, and have
+to be well soaked before cooking, and then they are not a savoury bite.
+The next plate consisted of &quot;Chalona,&quot; already described as lean sheep
+dried in the sun, and which, generally speaking, is very repugnant in
+appearance, smell, and taste. Never mind, we were hungry and partook of
+whatever was brought along, until the &quot;inner man&quot; cried content! The
+meal, I may add, was washed down with a cheap &quot;wine&quot; distilled from
+cheaper raisins, but it was something wet, and for the time sufficed.</p>
+
+<p>Our pack animals arrived at Guarina about 7 p.m., and we very soon had
+our things unpacked and occupied our beds, knowing that a pretty early
+start would be made in the morning. The night passed uneventfully, and
+at daybreak we got under way, bound for Achicachi, about five leagues
+off. There is still a road for vehicles to this town, and keeping along
+the shores of Lake Titicaca, we reached this larger Indian town about 9
+a.m. The population was about 5,000 Indians, but it is a very
+uninteresting, bleak spot, and we only remained long enough to have a
+square meal, which we were again fortunate enough to have provided for
+us by the reigning magistrate. That over, we then dispatched our coach
+on its return journey to La Paz, and thought of our other means of
+transport for the forward journey. Good <a name="Page_173"></a>mules we had sent ahead, and
+were now awaiting us saddled and ready, and we at last got started on
+this the more arduous part of our journey inland. Our destination for
+the night was Gualata, a small holding belonging to my fellow-traveller,
+and we reached it at about 1 o'clock, having climbed probably 2,000 feet
+higher up the mountains. Cultivation of cereals and potatoes is carried
+on on a limited scale, owing to the altitude, and taking it all round,
+the house, although comfortable enough, was situated in about as bleak
+and bare a spot as it is pretty well possible to imagine.</p>
+
+<p>Nevertheless, it was peopled by about sixty Indians, who turned out in
+true Indian style in their beautifully coloured robes and making
+horrible discordant noises which were intended for music&mdash;all, of
+course, to show their appreciation of their &quot;patron.&quot; Here, of course,
+we got all we required, and as there were any amount of fowls to be had,
+our bill-of-fare improved in accordance. There was nothing to do
+specially, and we did not feel inclined to move about much at this
+elevation above the sea, so we were quite pleased when bed-time came
+round, and without any ceremony each retired to their respective couches
+<i>on the floor</i>. Owing to excessive cold, however, sleep was out of the
+question, and it was a relief when day dawned on May 22nd. After
+refreshing ourselves with a cup of tea we set out for Sorata, distant
+about six leagues. Travelling was now much slower as the roads were very
+bad, and in some places very steep and covered with loose stones. This
+made the foothold bad for the mules, but we trusted to the useful
+animals entirely, letting them go along on a loose rein to choose their
+own footing, which they did very successfully. We passed the Indian
+village of Illabaya, perched on the side of a hill, and all plotted out
+in small squares for the cultivation of vegetables, etc., of which we
+<a name="Page_174"></a>bought a supply for our own use. The highest point we passed was over
+14,000 feet, and then began the gradual descent into the pretty little
+town of Sorata, 6,000 feet lower down. The path was not of the best, and
+the pace was very slow; but the scenery was quite refreshing compared
+with what we had already passed through.</p>
+
+<p>Sorata is indeed very pretty and quaint, and although comparatively out
+of the world, a traveller can spend a short time there pleasantly, and
+personally speaking, the few days we remained were very enjoyable,
+thanks once more to my friend's influence. For a change we did not sleep
+on the floor, and by way of recreation I scented out a billiard table,
+not a good one, it is true, and the balls were rather elliptical; but as
+I had once personated the &quot;Mikado,&quot; <i>&agrave; la Gilbert &amp; Sullivan</i>, the
+conditions were not so disconcerting as they would doubtless have been
+to a less famous personage! Sorata, being the nearest town to the
+Bolivian rubber districts which export their products to the Pacific
+coast, is naturally of more consequence on that account, as all
+materials and merchandise for the interior must pass through the hands
+of the Sorata merchants, while the rubber exported to the coast also
+finds its way through the medium of Sorata agents.</p>
+
+<p>There is the usual plaza in the centre of the town, where the youth and
+beauty disport themselves in the way peculiar to these mountainous
+regions, which consists of walking round and round at a good pace to
+keep up the circulation, as the weather is nearly always cold in Sorata.
+Illampu, the competitor of Illimani and Aconcagua, and which claims to
+be the highest peak in South America, rises up magnificently right above
+and round the town, and visitors for the first time must really wonder
+how they are to find a road to cross these gigantic mountains, as the
+town appears to be so completely shut in.</p><a name="Page_175"></a>
+
+<p>However, on 27th May we started to ascend the track forming the way to
+the interior, and got a fine send-off by the inhabitants, the more
+important of whom turned out to bid us adieu and wish us luck over a
+case or two of beer. The climb before us was a constant one for 18
+miles, and to-day we were to pass the highest point of our entire trip.
+This we reached about midday, at just under 16,000 feet. We were above
+the perpetual snow-line for a short time, and it was piercingly cold,
+besides we had to go slowly on account of the thin air, but we kept
+steadily on and reached an old mining establishment called &quot;El Injenio&quot;
+at 5 p.m., having done 24 miles in all since morning. There is a long,
+steep descent to the old mining camp by a narrow winding track cut out
+of the mountain side, and as the drop on one side to the little stream
+down below was about 40 to 50 feet, and there was no protecting fence of
+any kind, we decided to get off our mules, and accordingly completed the
+worst part of the way on foot, and of course this made travelling very
+much slower.</p>
+
+<p>Apparently, gold-washing had not been carried on for a very long time,
+as although the main building still has a roof, the whole place has a
+very deserted look about it; but, nevertheless, it still affords a
+covering for weary travellers like ourselves, and we soon began to
+select the most comfortable looking corners for our beds. There was an
+old Indian there who earns a meagre existence by selling forage to
+passing travellers for their beasts of burden; and he was also utilised
+by us for getting a fire ready and boiling water for a welcome cup of
+warm tea.</p>
+
+<p>One thousand feet above our heads, as it seemed, we could see Llane,
+another of these quaint, Indian hamlets, but the appearance of the
+exceedingly precipitate track up to it did not excite us in any desire
+to make the ascent. After partaking of some food, we got under our
+blankets in <a name="Page_176"></a>the usual way at sunset to once more sleep the sleep of the
+contented traveller. By 6.15 next morning we were again in the saddle
+and under way&mdash;the road was now even narrower than before, about two
+feet wide only&mdash;winding round and round the mountain side, ascending all
+the time, and in some parts far too steep for comfortable riding. From
+now onwards the journey was over tracks, not roads, and many of the
+ascents and descents were so steep that it was quite out of the question
+to attempt to negotiate them on muleback. We, accordingly, with
+philosophic patience had just to accept the inevitable, and get off and
+lead our animals over these now really dangerous parts. Some of the
+precipices down to the river bed were now much deeper, and had we slid
+over, we might have experienced considerable inconvenience at the
+bottom, and a greater difficulty in getting up again. The roads became
+worse and worse, and really they could be given no other name than
+&quot;goat-tracks,&quot; but the mule is a wonderful beast, and let him have his
+head (on no account attempt to guide him), there is not much fear of any
+serious trouble. Our sleeping place for the night was to be at an old
+ruin of a house at a bare, but more level, opening in the mountains,
+called Tolapampa, and before reaching this we had to negotiate much the
+worst pass on the whole route. This is called the &quot;tornillo&quot; (screw),
+and it is a real corkscrew path, cut out of the mountain side at an
+angle of about 50 deg., and about 450 feet of a climb.</p>
+
+<p>Riding was of course impossible, and we scrambled more than walked until
+we safely got over the top, very tired and puffed out. The mules with
+their cargo followed our example, and it was wonderful to see how they
+kept their feet; as one false step might have sent them to the bottom,
+carrying everything behind them too, and on more than one occasion this
+has happened, the animals falling, <a name="Page_177"></a>generally being killed outright in
+the fall. Pushing on as fast as possible, it was not till 4 o'clock p.m.
+that our residence for the night loomed in view, and it did not inspire
+one that it could supply much in the way of home comforts. Sure, the old
+hovel had walls and a roof, but beyond that there were no windows, and
+where the door ought to have been there was only a hole in the wall, but
+nothing to close it with to keep out the intense cold.</p>
+
+<p>We, of course, knew when we started that we would have to rough it, so
+there was no use grumbling now, and therefore set about at once to get
+something to make a fire with. With great good fortune we, after a great
+deal of searching and gathering, obtained some old rubbish that burned.
+I say with good luck, because this is a treeless region yet, at an
+elevation of 10,000 feet, and fuel is naturally always at a premium. For
+cooking it did not matter so much, as we had a spirit lamp, but it was
+to warm our bodies and keep up our spirits that made the fire so
+desirable. Darkness was on us before we finished our evening meal, and
+we looked forward to the night with no very pleasant forebodings&mdash;and it
+did turn out a tiresome night&mdash;it rained all the time and the cold was
+extreme&mdash;so much so, that we eventually sat up most of the time, hoping
+by daylight to move on to a more charitable atmosphere.</p>
+
+<p>I think I should not miss this opportunity of relating an experience of
+mine when I journeyed over the same route on another occasion. Then I
+was only accompanied by two Indians&mdash;no white people&mdash;and was travelling
+towards Sorata. I remember very well we reached Tolapampa, already
+described, in the afternoon, it having rained constantly all day. I was
+suffering from malaria very acutely, and the high levels at which we had
+been travelling also affected me grievously. I arrived at Tolapampa
+soaked to the skin, shivering cold, and <a name="Page_178"></a>really more dead than alive. To
+aggravate matters we could not light a fire&mdash;everything was wet&mdash;and I
+can assure you it was anything but a bright outlook for us. Another gang
+of about ten Indians also turned up, and we did look a sorry lot.
+However, these natives, seeing that I was so weak (I had had malaria
+almost constantly during the previous six months), did all they could to
+get me to &quot;buck up,&quot; and kept moving me backwards and forwards to warm
+myself, which operation I well remember was a very tedious one. They
+also tried to get me to eat of their cold frugal fare; but that was
+beyond me; and after they decided it was time to rest for the night, I
+scrambled in <i>amongst them</i>&mdash;Indians all round me&mdash;so as to benefit from
+the heat of their bodies. It was neither a very pleasant nor a very
+clean position that I occupied, and I can hardly realise how I had the
+courage to do what I did; but the facts remain the same, and at any rate
+I got some rest.</p>
+
+<p>It poured all night, and when at daybreak I suggested to my men that it
+was time to start, they positively refused to move until the rain
+ceased. I brought all my persuasive powers to bear, but it was of no
+avail, and as I had decided to go on alone, all I got out of them was a
+promise they would follow me at 10 o'clock. It was very disappointing,
+but I was determined to get forward at all cost. I therefore started on
+my lonely journey at eight o'clock, with the rain, and at times sleet,
+coming down in bucketfuls; I could hardly see in front of me at times,
+and it was destined to be a trip of which I shall always retain very
+vivid recollections. On this occasion, owing to the excessive rains, all
+the little mountain streams, which under normal circumstances are of no
+inconvenience to travellers, had been converted into veritable roaring
+torrents, causing me on more than one occasion to think twice before
+attempting a crossing. To condense matters as much as possible, let me
+remark that it <a name="Page_179"></a>rained all day; travelling was not only difficult but
+positively dangerous, and I, being so ill, could hardly keep my seat on
+my mule. All this made travelling so slow that I was still a long way
+from &quot;El Injenio,&quot; my objective point for the night, when darkness
+overtook me. I had the narrow, dangerous paths to go along which I have
+already described, and I therefore did not trust to getting over them on
+muleback, but took the safer and, in my opinion, more sensible plan of
+leading my animal. This was tedious work, but it was to become worse
+very soon. I arrived at one of those swollen mountain streams, the
+appearance of which in the darkness fairly frightened me. My mule would
+not look at it, and for a while I did not know exactly what to do. I
+could judge that it was four or five feet deep, and rushing past at a
+great rate. Neither mule nor I could ever have hoped to keep our feet if
+we had attempted crossing, as it was about thirty feet wide. I left my
+mule and commenced to reconnoitre along the side, when I came to what
+had been a bridge, but which was partly washed away, leaving a gap of
+about four feet in the middle, as far as I could judge in the uncertain
+light, and over which it was impossible for a mule to go. Leaving my
+mule, I made a good jump, and, fortunately, got over all right, but,
+after all, I did not know in the least where I was, and, before
+attempting to return to my animal, I started to go forward in the hope
+of at least striking some sheltered spot where I might pass the night.
+Meantime, however, I heard a crash, and, as it turned out, away had gone
+the remainder of the bridge, leaving me on one side, and now completely
+isolated from my mule and saddle-bags. There was no use fretting, so I
+continued moving on&mdash;it was now dark&mdash;feeling my way, and keeping very
+carefully away from the river. I had not proceeded very far before my
+progress was all too suddenly arrested. I did not until the next morning
+know what <a name="Page_180"></a>actually did take place, but the facts are as follows: In
+groping my way along I had actually been walking on the very edge of a
+sort of precipice, and apparently had simply stepped over the side. At
+any rate, I rolled to the bottom, which, luckily for me, was only about
+fifteen feet; but it was quite a bump, and I wondered where I had
+actually landed. As it was so black, and I did not know anything of my
+surroundings, I simply made up my mind to remain where I had fallen
+until morning. I ought to tell you that, although I had plenty of
+matches, they were all wet with the rain, so that they would not light,
+and I had to remain in darkness all night. My saddle-bags were with the
+mule, and I did not even know now where the animal might be. I was
+soaking wet, shivering with ague, nothing to eat, plenty of cigarettes
+and matches, but unable to smoke or even make a light, so my
+disagreeable plight can to some extent be imagined. Moreover, there were
+about six inches of water all round me, so that I could not attempt to
+sleep. The cold was intense, and I can safely say that I never spent
+such a long, disagreeable, and dreary night in all my previous
+experience, and I hope never to be compelled to do so again. There are
+bears in this district also, but I am thankful to say that I was not
+molested in any way.</p>
+
+<p>Towards morning the rain slackened, and when daylight came I never felt
+more thankful in my life. I climbed out of my nest, and there, only
+about a hundred yards away, was my faithful mule standing exactly as I
+had left him. I waited until the water in the stream had gone down
+sufficiently, and crossing on foot, with the water about two feet deep,
+I mounted my mule, and then recrossed on muleback. I knew from the
+number of hours I had travelled on the previous day I could not be far
+from Injenio, and I was right, as in less than an hour I saw my
+destination right ahead of me. I was in a pitiful condition, <a name="Page_181"></a>and could
+hardly stand up. The old Indian recognised me and got me dry wraps after
+a fashion, and I got under his dry blankets. I could not eat, but I
+drank a large quantity of &quot;Aguardiente,&quot; which at least put some life
+into me. In the meantime I did not know what had become of my pack
+animals and Indians, but I was not in a state to worry about them, and
+didn't. Instead, I kept my bed for about thirty hours, until I was
+revived somewhat. Then, luckily, my men turned up, and I was able to
+continue my journey to Sorata.</p>
+
+<p>Well, we left Tolapampa about 6 a.m., and for the best part of the day
+the route was over country very similar to that passed on the previous
+day; but we were descending rapidly now, and the temperature became
+perceptibly much warmer, in fact, by the afternoon we had indications
+that soon we should arrive in the &quot;montes,&quot; where we would have
+vegetation in abundance, and consequently we would at least have some
+shade during the heat of the day. The road, nevertheless, continued to
+be very rough and broken, and we had frequently to dismount and lead our
+animals for long distances at a time. The long pass of Margurani was
+unusually tiring, as it was down hill most of the time, and over loose
+rocks and stones, which were very hard on our poor feet. Pararani, a
+small stopping-place, was reached about 2 p.m., and as both we and the
+animals had just about had enough of it, we decided to remain for the
+night.</p>
+
+<p>We were now right in tropical surroundings, and the beautiful palms and
+ferns, not to mention the magnificent butterflies of all colours, were a
+grateful contrast to the scenery we had been accustomed to since we left
+Sorata. We were now only about two thousand feet above sea level, and
+the weather was very hot indeed, mosquitoes and other worrying insects
+were very plentiful; but, bad as <a name="Page_182"></a>they can be, they seemed trivial
+troubles compared with what we had come through. At this &quot;puesto&quot; we
+were better treated, as we obtained vegetables, bananas, and oranges,
+and with our tinned stuffs made quite a decent repast. The place was
+owned by a Spaniard, and he, along with his wife, cultivates a little
+piece of ground, and supplied passing travellers with general rations
+for both man and beast. The place was clean in comparison with what we
+had been accustomed to, and we seemed to sigh a mutual sigh of content
+at our good luck in reaching this &quot;oasis.&quot; We rested all afternoon, and
+got to bed early, and, although there were rats about, I slept &quot;like a
+log,&quot; I was so fearfully tired.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning, however, I awoke refreshed, and with our usual
+punctuality got away at 6 o'clock, feeling that at last we were nearing
+our journey's end, as we now directed our animals' heads towards
+Copacabana, the nearest of the rubber forests belonging to my friend.
+This was only three or four leagues off, and the going was somewhat
+improved also, so our progress was a good deal faster than usual. During
+the greater part of the present journey, the weather, so far, had been
+fairly good, that is, taking into consideration the high regions through
+which we had come, but we were not fated to be so successful on this our
+last day. In fact, we had not gone far, when a really characteristic
+tropical shower baptized us properly, and continued during the whole of
+the rest of the day, the result being, as may be imagined, that we
+arrived at &quot;Copacabana&quot; like the proverbial &quot;drookit mice.&quot; As the path
+was beneath the trees all the way, we got the full benefit of the rain
+dripping from the branches overhanging, which was just like a shower
+bath all the time. However, I got into dry clothes, and, I think, felt
+when I got into the Estancia house, that after all the &quot;roughing,&quot; the
+trip was, <a name="Page_184"></a>in part, compensated for by the new experiences I had gone
+through, making my way over these very mountainous regions at such a
+very high elevation.</p>
+
+<p>However, I remained for over a year in the rubber districts, and had an
+opportunity of seeing how the work is carried on and of judging of the
+enormous profit which must result to the lucky owners. Unfortunately,
+the climate is of the very worst, and the malaria being of a very
+malignant nature, is very hard on white people. I had my full share of
+this &quot;terciana,&quot; as it is called, and sometimes wonder how I really
+managed to work my way to the outside world again.</p>
+
+<p>In conclusion, let me express a modest hope that the perusal of my
+humble effort to put personal adventures on paper may at least convey to
+the reader some idea of what has to be experienced if one chooses to be
+a wanderer like myself in remote places, and that he or she may to a
+certain extent enjoy the result nominally, without going through the
+hard work involved in the actual performance.</p>
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_F_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_F_6">[F]</a><div class="note"><p> Allow me to remind the reader that Lake Titicaca is the
+highest water in the world which is navigated by steam.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Loading_Wheat_at_the_Port_of_Buenos_Aires"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image17.png" width="463" height="394" alt="Loading Wheat at the Port of Buenos Aires." title="" />
+</center><a name="Page_187"></a>
+
+<h4>Loading Wheat at the Port of Buenos Aires.</h4>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="PROGRESS_OF_THE_PORT_OF_BUENOS_AIRES"></a><h2>PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES.</h2>
+
+<p>The first Custom House built for the port of Buenos Aires was in 1603.
+The only work carried out in the harbour up to the end of the eighteenth
+century was the construction of thirty-five metres of brick quay-wall at
+the site of the &quot;Arsenal&quot; on the Riachuelo. We find that although
+between the years 1852 and 1858 many plans were presented for building
+of piers, these were only carried into practice and built by the
+Government under the technical direction of Engineer E. Taylor; a new
+Custom House replacing the fortress, a timber pier for loading and
+unloading goods, and another pier for passenger traffic at the locality
+of the old mole. In the year 1878 the Riachuelo was first opened for
+traffic for sea-going ships, and in 1879, 197 vessels with 55,091
+tonnage had entered the Riachuelo. As early as 1862 Ed. Madero turned
+his attention to the question of docks for the port of Buenos Aires, and
+in 1865 applied for permission to construct them at his own cost, but
+the application was rejected. Four years later he presented another
+application, which suffered the same fate. In 1869 the total exports
+from Buenos Aires were 397,722 tons, the bulk of which were loaded at
+the Riachuelo, and steamers over 100 metres long frequented the harbour
+about the time of 1870. It was not until 1882 that Ed. Madero succeeded
+in obtaining the concession of building the docks for the port of Buenos
+Aires. The docks were to be constructed on the river side of the city,
+<a name="Page_188"></a>between the gasworks on the north and the Riachuelo River on the south.</p>
+
+<p>The trade of the City of Buenos Aires up to the time of the opening of
+the South Basin had nearly all been carried on between the shore and the
+steamers by lighters and small steam tenders. The usual anchorage for
+the ocean steamers was in the &quot;bar anchorage,&quot; a distance of about
+fourteen miles from the city. The cargoes were transhipped into
+lighters, which brought them as near to the shore as possible, and from
+this point they were taken to the Custom House in specially-constructed
+carts with very large wheels. Passengers were transhipped in the bar
+anchorage into small tenders, and were brought to a point about 500
+metres from the end of the passenger mole. From these tenders, when
+there was sufficient water, they were taken ashore in small boats,
+while, if the water was too low to go alongside the mole, they also had
+to be brought ashore in carts. In many cases, however, passengers were
+brought on in tenders and landed at the Riachuelo wharves, which were
+then under construction. The first steamers that arrived in the River
+Plate were those of the Royal Mail Company, followed by the French
+Messageries Maritimes, and shortly afterwards by the Lamport &amp; Holt
+Line.</p>
+
+<p>Up to the year 1870 these lines, and a few more that were started,
+progressed very slowly, although the rates of freight were then very
+high; but after that trade increased gradually, and not only a fair
+number of sailing-vessels arrived yearly, but the regular lines of
+steamers increased their number of sailings. The great drawback was the
+deficient state of the port, where steamers had to lie at a distance of
+fourteen to sixteen miles, and most of the sailing-vessels at ten to
+twelve miles from the shore. There was no channel dredged, and even the
+Riachuelo was so scantily <a name="Page_189"></a>supplied with water that lighters drawing
+seven to eight feet were sometimes for weeks prevented from getting out
+to deliver their cargo to the sea-going vessels in the outer roads. The
+discharge was exclusively effected into lighters, which, apart from the
+heavy expense incurred by the receiver of the goods, presented the great
+objection that a considerable portion of the cargo was often broached
+and pilfered before it reached the shore, claims for which had to be
+paid by the ship. Another point was that many of these lighters were old
+sailing-vessels or steamers, and, in the unseaworthy and leaky state
+they were in, often arrived with their cargo considerably damaged. On
+the completion of the South Basin on 28th January, 1889, passengers were
+able to embark or disembark with a little more comfort, and cargoes were
+landed on the quays. Docks 1 and 2 have each a water area of 23 acres,
+being 570 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,420
+metres. No. 3 Dock has a water area of 27 acres, is 690 metres long by
+160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,660 metres. No. 4 Dock has a
+water area of 25 acres, is 630 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a
+quay length of 1,535 metres.</p>
+
+<p>All these four docks, when they were originally finished, had a depth of
+23 feet 9 inches below low water, so that, however low the river may be,
+there should never be less than 23 feet 9 inches in the docks. Since
+then dredging has been going on and the docks have been deepened to
+receive larger vessels. The docks are united by passages 20 metres in
+width, each passage being crossed by a swing bridge. Dock No. 4 is
+entered at its northern end by the north lock. This lock opens into the
+North Basin, which has a water area of 41 acres and a quay length of
+1,409 metres and a depth of 21 feet 3 inches. The total area of the
+basins and the four docks is 174 acres, <a name="Page_190"></a>and the total length of quays
+8,482 lineal metres. The following are the dates the various basins and
+docks were opened to traffic:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>South Basin</td><td align='left'>28th January, 1889</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>South Lock, Dock No. 1</td><td align='left'>31st January, 1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dock No. 2</td><td align='left'>26th September, 1890</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dock No. 3</td><td align='left'>31st March, 1892</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Dock No. 4, North Lock, North Basin, and Graving Docks</td><td align='left'>7th March, 1897</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>First half of North Channel</td><td align='left'>15th June, 1897</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Second half of North Channel, buoys and beacons</td><td align='left'>31st March, 1898</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>The timber sea-wall was built to a level of 16 feet above low water, and
+the stone sea-wall to 19 feet. Originally there were built three sheds
+in the South Basin, three sheds and two warehouses in Dock No. 1, two
+warehouses and two sheds in Dock No. 2, five warehouses in Dock No. 3,
+and four warehouses in Dock No. 4, the total capacity of these sheds and
+warehouses being 525,510 cubic metres, and the floor area 192,800 square
+metres. Since then, several warehouses have been built, and some burnt
+down. The total cost of the harbour works as contracted for by Ed.
+Madero was $35,000,000 gold, or, say, about &pound;7,000,000. This includes
+the South Basin, Dock No. 1, Dock No. 2, Dock No. 3, Dock No. 4, North
+Basin, North Channel, Graving Docks, machinery, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The following statement shows the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires in 1880, 1890, 1900, and 1909, and clearly shows
+the advance made in the last 30 years.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_192"></a>These figures include steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well
+as foreign trade.</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='right'>1880</td><td align='right'>644,750 tons</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1890</td><td align='right'>4,507,096 tons</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1900</td><td align='right'>8,047,010 tons</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>1909</td><td align='right'>16,993,973 tons</td></tr></table>
+
+
+<p>In 1909 we find that 2,008 steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the
+port of Buenos Aires from foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542,
+and 1,978 steamers and 129 sailing-vessels left the port for foreign
+shores with a tonnage of 5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead
+with 2,242 steamers and 37 sailing-vessels, or, say, 53&frac12; per cent, of
+the total.</p>
+<br />
+
+<center>
+<img src="images/divider.png" width="47" height="71" alt="" title="" />
+</center>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<a name="JUST_MY_LUCK"></a><h2>JUST MY LUCK!</h2>
+
+<p>I really have had rather bad luck. As you know, I was wrecked on my way
+out from the Old Country. The good ship &quot;Southern Cross&quot; met her fate on
+a rock in Vigo Bay, and my luggage met its fate at the same time. This
+was something of a blow, but I expected to be treated a little more
+kindly by fate when once my destination was reached; I would be a
+stranger in a new country, and fate is proverbially kind to tyros of
+every sort.</p>
+
+<p>R.M.S.P. &quot;Danube,&quot; which carried the shipwrecked passengers of the
+&quot;Southern Cross&quot; from Vigo to Buenos Aires, arrived at the Argentine
+capital towards the end of January. At the conclusion of my journey, one
+of my fellow-passengers, to whom I was saying good-bye, gave me this
+sound piece of advice: &quot;Take care of yourself, and the country will take
+care of you.&quot; I don't suppose I can have taken care of myself, for
+within two months I was down with typhoid fever. This is how fate treats
+strangers in a new country.</p>
+
+<p>You know that I had the good fortune, shortly after my arrival, to find
+employment with the Santa F&eacute; Land Company, and immediately on my falling
+ill, the Manager of the estancia sent me to bed, and reduced me to a
+milk diet. Two days later he himself took me down to the Buenos Aires
+British Hospital, and it is to this fact, and to the sensible treatment
+which I received in camp, that I in great measure owe my quick recovery.
+The journey to Buenos Aires was made as comfortable as possible. Even
+so, however, I must have been slightly delirious, for I remember
+thinking that everybody in the train was wearing <a name="Page_196"></a>a pink shirt without
+either coat or waistcoat. This must surely have been a delusion.</p>
+
+<p>I reached the hospital on a Sunday morning, and was promptly carried
+upstairs to a private ward. Though my temperature was now as much as 104
+deg., and my faculties were naturally not at their quickest, I could not
+help noticing the cheery look of the ward. There were flowers on the
+tables, the patients were obviously well cared for, everything was
+scrupulously clean, and the British nurses looked both efficient and
+attractive. The scrupulous cleanliness, together with the latest and
+most approved methods of treatment, were indeed a feature of the
+hospital in all its aspects.</p>
+
+<p>It was a short time afterwards that one of the doctors, after carefully
+diagnosing my case, ordered me to the medical ward, where there would be
+greater facilities for giving me a course of baths. In the medical ward
+my treatment was as kind and as careful as formerly, but my new
+surroundings had for the moment a rather depressing effect. I was just
+able to realise that the cases around me were more serious than in the
+private ward, and that both doctors and nurses were more grave and
+intent on their work. I was soon, however, to become delirious again,
+and for the next few days was more or less oblivious to my environment.
+After a short time I became more alive to what was happening around me.
+We typhoid patients had four cold baths daily, and those patients who in
+their normal existence were unaccustomed to one warm bath a week were
+somewhat inclined to rebel. This was amusing. My sense of humour was
+reviving. The company here was certainly more mixed than in the private
+ward&mdash;consisting as it did of every class and of every nationality, from
+Montenegrin to Turk, but it was not on that account any the less
+entertaining. Two or three berths away a <a name="Page_197"></a>brawny Scot of monster
+dimensions, who was convalescent after an acute attack of rheumatism,
+would every night before getting into bed say, with a certain na&iuml;vete,
+and without any sense of proportion, that he was going to his &quot;little
+nest.&quot; And yet people accuse Scotsmen of a lack of imagination. On
+either side of me lay a typhoid patient&mdash;each delirious. The one on my
+right hand imagined he was at home drinking beer in Plymouth, and the
+one on my left, an Italian workman, would persistently call for his
+boots. It seemed he wished to return to his work and did not think any
+other article of dress necessary. The weather at the time was certainly
+hot, and this may have suggested such a daring flaunting of the
+conventions. It is curious that among typhoid patients this illusion of
+doing some action without sufficient clothing is rather prevalent. I
+myself at one time imagined that I had been discharged from the hospital
+with only the top of my pyjamas and a travelling rug. As I would carry
+the travelling rug on my arm, it scarcely compensated for the lack of
+other apparel. Through all these vagaries on the part of the patients
+the nurses remained kind and careful as ever. This was especially
+conspicuous in one case, where a patient insisted that his nurse was a
+Chinese pirate, and behaved accordingly, but she gave her charge the
+same excellent attention as before. At this time I began to be troubled
+with the pangs of a great hunger. After subsisting for five weeks on
+milk alone, my food diet began with small doses of cornflour and with
+large doses of castor oil, but at last there came a chicken. I shall
+never forget that first chicken, nor the nurse who brought it to me. How
+I tore those bones&mdash;of the chicken, not the nurse&mdash;apart, and how I
+attacked them in my fingers so that I should not leave any of the good
+meat. Eventually my bed in the medical ward was required for a more
+serious case than myself, and I was <a name="Page_198"></a>sufficiently well to be returned to
+the private ward for a few days of convalescence. The patients here were
+certainly more companionable than in the medical ward, and they suffered
+from less grave complaints. They were for the most part victims of
+accidents, and were all nearly well enough to leave the hospital. In the
+evenings we generally had some sort of amusement among ourselves. The
+<i>pi&egrave;ce de resistance</i> was more often than not a wrestling match between
+the man with the amputated foot and the man who had undergone an
+operation for sciatica. As both performers were in ordinary
+circumstances compelled to use crutches, their efforts were distinctly
+humorous.</p>
+
+<p>It was after two months of medical treatment that I was able to leave
+the British Hospital, and it was only when on the point of leaving that
+I realised what we Britishers owe to this institution.</p>
+
+<p>The building itself is constructed on the most approved designs, it is
+fitted with every modern appliance, both medical and surgical; the
+treatment is excellent, the percentage of cures remarkable&mdash;not a single
+case has been lost in the medical ward during the current year; the
+doctors are not only experienced, but efficient; and finally, the
+nurses&mdash;but perhaps I have already dwelt with sufficient emphasis on
+their virtues.</p>
+
+<p>All the same, thank Heaven I return to camp in a week, and may fate deal
+more kindly with me in the future.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<br /><br /><br />
+<a name="THE_TACURUquot"></a><h2>&quot;<a name="Page_199"></a>THE TACURU.&quot;</h2><a name="Page_201"></a>
+
+<br /><br /><br />
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<hr style="width: 15%;" />
+
+<h5>PATRON SAINT: GEORGE WASHINGTON.</h5>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 15%;" />
+<h5>No. 1.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Saturday, March 26th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+
+<p>When we consider the already overstocked journalistic world, and
+remember the innumerable papers and magazines which greet one at every
+street corner and nestle in every armchair, we feel that an apology is
+due to our readers (if any) for our temerity in swelling the overflow of
+periodicals, but let us assure you our reasons for putting another paper
+on the market are purely altruistic. It is no idea of mere gain, or even
+a desire for notoriety that urges us to issue &quot;The Tacuru&quot;; we have
+undertaken this responsibility because we know that the world would be
+the loser did we refuse to give to the public the highly scientific
+impressions formed by an extraordinarily intelligent party of pilgrims
+during a unique journey into the wild uncultivated northern lands of the
+Argentine, especially as some of the most intellectual (the superlative
+adverb is well chosen) members of the band have promised to give their
+scientific views on the lands through which we shall pass daily. Though
+this expedition is only advertised to last a fortnight, yet we have no
+intention of closing our paper at the end of that time, for we are
+certain that once the public have been educated to appreciate the
+high-class literature and useful information which it will be the aim of
+&quot;The Tacuru&quot; to supply, we shall have created a demand and interest
+which not even Halley's comet can rival, and we shall endeavour to
+satisfy that demand daily. Our only fear was that lest the world <a name="Page_202"></a>should
+be kept waiting for the publication of our paper, for though everything
+was in readiness yesterday for an early start to-day, the elements
+seemed inclined to delay us, and when rain had fallen steadily nearly
+all day, The Instigator of the trip was seen to clench his jaw yesterday
+afternoon, as he remarked &quot;We cannot start till Monday.&quot; This fiat
+caused dire consternation; the idea of waiting for two days when all
+those carts were packed ready for our immediate outset, filled the party
+with annoyance, and had it not been for the fact that The Instigator is
+a man not to be trifled with, it is possible remonstrances might have
+been raised. But, fortunately, each member of the party only possessed
+the angelic variety of temper, so no expostulations were made, and peace
+was maintained. This unequalled patience under trials was rewarded, and
+great was the joy of the party when at 8 p.m. it was found that the rain
+had ceased, and the moon shone forth in such a way as to influence The
+Instigator to rescind his decision and declare an early start for
+to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Rumour has it that The Jehu and his aide-de-camp and Our Hostess sat up
+till 12.30 a.m., finally arranging &quot;places in the carriages, food
+supplies, blankets required,&quot; and all the innumerable details which made
+for the party's comfort.</p>
+
+<p>Before we publish the impressions, contributed by one member of the
+band, on to-day's trip, we think our readers might appreciate a slight
+character sketch of each of our &quot;Staff.&quot; There are nine Pilgrims.</p>
+
+<p>FIRST: <i>The Instigator</i>. Well, he's right when you know him, but you do
+want to know him first. What possessed him to suggest that we should
+trek away north, goodness only knows, unless he was fired by a desire to
+imitate the Cook-Peary journeys, or it may have been the celebrated
+&quot;Cristobal Cocktails&quot; which inspired him to do great deeds.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_203"></a>We hear that coming out from England he earned a reputation on board
+ship as an auctioneer, and once even sold a live lord for a few
+shillings to the highest lady bidder. As a camp man he is a marvel,
+never seen on horseback, but generally discovered on his hands and knees
+fudging about with a thing he calls a pocket microscope, and
+occasionally going off into hysterics over some clod of earth, a leaf,
+or some weird microbes which he says are feeding on the alfalfa roots.
+Talking of feeding, The Instigator can eat anything, his motto is &quot;<i>tout
+jour</i>&quot;; he has the digestion of an ostrich, and says &quot;it is just as well
+to make a good meal while you are about it, for you never know when and
+where you will get the next.&quot; His best friends cannot say he is musical
+(save when others are trying to sleep); but he has a favourite song, and
+it is that old music-hall classic entitled &quot;Do, do, be always on the
+do.&quot; However, he is a very good fellow, and notwithstanding that square
+jaw of his, which seems to hint at the possibility of &quot;a man of wrath&quot;
+existing in that silent thoughtful being, he is kindness itself to all,
+and never fails to do his share of work as it comes along.</p>
+
+<p>SECOND: <i>Our Guest</i>. The Wild Man discovered this <i>rara avis</i> in a
+railway carriage, babbling for &quot;Kwilmez Beer,&quot; so he was brought along,
+and he had not been long at the Estancia before he was running first
+favourite in the Popularity Stakes. He was always ready for anything,
+and it must have been his desire to acquire knowledge which induced him
+to come with the party. The Saint has undertaken to explain to him how
+colonists thrive on the 8 per cent. system, and to teach him how many
+grains of maize make &quot;ocho.&quot; We doubt whether she will succeed in the
+latter attempt, for we fancy Our Guest will never leave eight grains of
+maize uneaten; he is a wonder for that delicacy, and feeds on it
+constantly, and we hear rumours <a name="Page_204"></a>that he intends to take some maize cobs
+home with him to his native country, and proposes to feed his &quot;team&quot; on
+it.</p>
+
+<p>THIRD: <i>The Delineator.</i> This is a misnomer, he really should be called
+&quot;The Photographer,&quot; but that sounds so common, and his views are so
+uncommon that we called him The Delineator instead; besides, he always
+travels about with maps and charts (his own, or someone else's) and when
+appealed to as to what course we should take, replies in a cold, hard
+voice, &quot;North by North, just as she goes.&quot; Like the rest of the party,
+he has never travelled quite the road we are going now, but the prospect
+of collecting a few new varieties of butterflies, moths, insects, and
+plants caused his eyes to light up with a wild gleam when he heard of
+the trip, and the yarns he spins of things unseen by the ordinary sober
+mortal are ever a joy to the listener, and make them whisper, <i>se non &egrave;
+vero &egrave; ben trovato.</i></p>
+
+<p>FOURTH: <i>The Jehu.</i> There is but one name for a man who handles his
+four-in-hand over tree-trunks, tacurus, and tussocks, as our coacher
+does. He drives as not even his namesake drove; in rain, in sunshine, in
+light, in darkness, over smooth ground or rough, he guides his steeds
+with consummate skill and care, which is wonderful to see. After a more
+than usually big bump he turns to his passengers with a cheery &quot;All
+aboard?&quot;; then gives his attention once more to the animals of which he
+is so fond, and in which he takes such pride. His knowledge of the
+horses he drives is marvellous. The Jehu is a man of great perception
+and information, and has a pleasant knack of being able to convey his
+knowledge to others. He and The Instigator have great arguments together
+which interest all listeners by day, but the discussions are not
+followed with quite so much delight by those who are privileged to hear
+them at night, when they often degenerate into a snoring competition.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_205"></a>FIFTH: <i>The Wild Man</i>&mdash;had been driven south by stress of weather and
+strikes. We should like to say something nice about him, for he always
+carries revolvers, knives, and cameras, but we fear that our kindest
+remarks may be misunderstood by one so unused to a quiet civilisation
+with no revolutions, so we refrain from all personal comments. This
+product of a land of luxuriant vegetation has a quaint penchant for
+collecting matchboxes (filled), old boots, deer horns, and any odd
+things lying about the camp belonging to himself or other people; still
+he is always cheerful and content, never grumbles, and can give valuable
+information respecting the ways of the natives who look upon him as a
+man and a brother.</p>
+
+<p>SIXTH: <i>The Chaperon</i>&mdash;has his uses. It will be his business to see that
+we are housed, clothed, and fed. The horses and peons will also be under
+his care, and if anyone wants to grumble about anything The Chaperon is
+the person to abuse. Tent-erecting is what he considers himself to be
+very good at; but rumour has it that his best accomplishment is
+hairdressing (ladies or gentlemen, English or foreign styles). His
+resources know no bounds; he has been seen to fasten up a pair of
+leggings with bits of stick. His powers of annexation, both mentally and
+materially, are indeed marvellous. He prefers to make his bed on the
+bricks or the cold, hard ground, and then enlarges on the comfort
+thereof; he generally takes his food standing up, and is always on the
+spot ready for any emergency when required.</p>
+
+<p>SEVENTH: <i>The Saint</i>&mdash;is a lady who will give away anything in her
+possession, save chicken or eggs. Just now she is making donations of
+pipes, tobacco, handkerchiefs (her own or The Instigator's), and good
+advice on matrimony. She is a person of importance, and is very keen on
+collecting knowledge which she is always ready to impart to others;
+<a name="Page_206"></a>unfortunately, some of her efforts to improve humanity have not been
+absolutely successful, but she is never discouraged, and takes up the
+next case on the list with equal enthusiasm. Most of us have to thank
+her for some good thing or other. She will do her best to keep every
+member of the party up to the mark, physically and mentally. Her
+accomplishments are numerous.</p>
+
+<p>EIGHTH: <i>My Lady</i>&mdash;is a general favourite; she will look after the lot
+of us in her own gracious fashion. Everyone goes to her for advice,
+sympathy, or help, which she is always ready to give. Even without her
+tea-basket she would be an absolute necessity for the social success of
+the trip, for, as the advertisements say of patent sweepers and the
+Encyclopaedia Britannica, &quot;no party is complete without&quot; her, so every
+one was glad to hear that she had agreed to accompany the northern
+pioneers. Those favoured ones who have seen her &quot;on the boards,&quot; whisper
+that her histrionic genius is marvellous; we, who are not among the
+fortunate number, can only say that if her acting equals her talent for
+giving (when required) a really concise, lucid description of anything,
+it must indeed be wonderful. Her quotations, too, are so ready and apt,
+though occasionally they remind us, by their vagueness, of her namesake
+and favourite book.</p>
+
+<p>NINTH: <i>The Kid</i>. Why she is brought along, nobody will ever know. It
+may have been as a &quot;contrapeso&quot; (&quot;an addition of meat or fish of
+inferior quality, thrown in to complete the weight,&quot; <i>vide</i> Arturo
+Cuyas' Dictionary), but we think she came with the sheep. Anyhow, it was
+not until the first part of the journey had been accomplished that she
+was discovered bleating in the corner of one of the coaches. We had a
+meeting to decide whether she should come on with us or not, and
+arranged to put her on the job of tidying up for the trip; but her
+hopeless incompetence <a name="Page_207"></a>and ready impertinence to her superior officers,
+necessitated instant dismissal without a character. However, as she is
+really not worth the trouble of sending back, we locked up the tea tin,
+and let her continue the journey on the condition that she will not talk
+too much, awake or asleep. With any luck, we may yet lose her somewhere
+in the wilds.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The one disappointment expressed by all the party was that Our Hostess
+decided not to accompany us on the trip, but to await our return at
+Cristobal.</p>
+
+<p>We started out from the estancia house as soon as the ladies' luggage
+could be brought downstairs, and we should like to remark, in passing,
+that it was a very affecting sight to see Our Guest, The Delineator, and
+The Wild Man lifting and carrying heavy boxes and baggage (with no
+thought of gain) out to the peons, who, under the able direction of The
+Chaperon, loaded them scientifically on to one of the four carts, which,
+when ready, were sent on ahead with the nine peons who had been told off
+for the trip. Cameras appeared from every available corner as we
+prepared to move, and many invaluable photos of the start of the caravan
+must have been secured by those who gave us such a hearty send-off. When
+at last Our Hostess had put in the final cushion and rug, and provided
+us with biscuits and bull's-eyes, and was satisfied that even she could
+do nothing more for our comfort, we parted from her with great regret,
+promising that she should receive numerous marconigrams concerning our
+welfare, and our travels en route. First went off the four-in-hand
+driven by The Jehu, who had four members of the party in his care; he
+was followed by The Chaperon, who drove a pair, and looked after the
+rest of the explorers.</p>
+
+<p>There is an old saying, &quot;Give a dog a bad name and you may as well hang
+him.&quot; The truth of this saying has <a name="Page_208"></a>never been better exemplified than
+in the case of the Chaco, which long held the reputation of being good
+for nothing. Rumour had it that the northern land was useless; life was
+impossible there for the white man; indeed, it was supposed that cattle
+even could not live there on account of the mosquitoes and garrapata;
+and Indians were said to be as thick as flies, and equally disturbing.</p>
+
+<p>The Santa F&eacute; Land Company has been one of the pioneers who steadily
+fought down these reports, and by showing what good cattle could be bred
+there, and what crops grown, has gradually opened up the possibilities
+of the northern lands to colonists and investors. Slowly but surely
+workers came north, first in fear and dread, but later with confidence,
+and now the cry is &quot;They come, and still they come.&quot; Before we had gone
+far on our journey we had an opportunity of conversing with one lately
+arrived colonist. A wonderful crop of maize attracted our notice, and we
+stopped to speak to the great, jolly, strong-framed Italian who had
+grown it. He has moved up from the south with his wife and family, and
+his fellow-workmen. They started ploughing, and though it was late in
+the season, he was persuaded to try a catch-crop of maize, with the
+result that he has to-day banked $5,000, when he never expected to
+secure a chance harvest. And so sure is he that the land will repay all
+labour and time expended upon it that he is anxious to take up a league
+and colonize it with his fellow-countrymen.</p>
+
+<p>It is the same story all through the northern lands; anyone with pluck,
+adaptability and grit can do what this man has done: indeed hard work
+and perseverance will as amply reward the labourer in the northern lands
+as they have done in the south. The sight of this great crop of valuable
+maize, on land which a few months before was a mere waste, brings the
+words of the Psalmist forcibly to one's thoughts, for surely of no
+country could it more truly <a name="Page_209"></a>be said than of the Argentine, &quot;Dwell in
+the land, and be doing good, and, verily, thou shalt be fed&quot;; and
+perhaps there are few countries in which there are less openings for the
+man whose mind is not set towards &quot;doing good&quot;: the Argentine has little
+room for the shirker.</p>
+
+<a name="Horses_awaiting_Inspection"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image18.png" width="459" height="401" alt="Horses awaiting Inspection." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Horses awaiting Inspection.</h4>
+
+<p>The rain of yesterday relieved us from the trials of dust on our
+journey, but it also made the going very heavy, and instead of
+travelling for the usual two hours before relieving horses, we were
+obliged to make an early stop for a change. This is always an
+interesting sight, for the animals are so well trained. Our total number
+is 87, and when a halt is called, these animals are all lined up in a
+row, generally against a wire fence. At the word of command they range
+themselves, backed close against the fence in a long line with their
+heads outwards. Packed tightly together they await the inspection of
+their master, who chooses the animals he requires, and as they are
+standing thus they allow themselves to be haltered up and led quietly
+away from the line to be harnessed. Their training is wonderful, but it
+is really amusing to watch the expression of the horses as they stand in
+a row while the selection takes place, they seem to be saying &quot;Please,
+sir, not I this time.&quot; Where no wire fence is available, the peons
+stretch a rope or lasso out, and the horses will line up against that in
+the same manner. During our first change of horses, unexpected
+excitement occurred. The Saint perceived a plaid horse&mdash;at least this is
+what she called it, and we believed it to be German for piebald
+horse&mdash;from which a peon had dismounted. This horse must have reminded
+her of the circus-riders of her childhood (or possibly her action was
+owing to temporary aberration); anyhow, without a word of warning, she
+leapt astride the native saddle and gave a short display of how it
+should be done. However, fortunately from her point of view, <a name="Page_210"></a>though
+disappointingly from that of the spectators, the piebald animal had not
+been trained to circus tricks, and only quietly ambled along for a few
+yards, during which time the cameras came into full play. After The
+Saint had been persuaded to dismount, and the horses were harnessed up,
+an onward move was made, and it was not long before we met our host for
+the day. He had ridden to the furthest outposts of his section to join
+us, and under his guidance we were conducted to two or three spots,
+where The Instigator inspected rodeos of animals in his charge.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at the Section house of Polvareda about midday, and found
+that our host had prepared an alarmingly sumptuous repast for his influx
+of visitors: as course followed course, roast ducks dodged the turkey,
+and were pursued by plum pudding, etc., we began to wonder if our host
+thought that meal would have to last us for the fortnight of our trip.
+But we discovered that he came from the West of England, and had not
+forgotten the ideas of hospitality current in that part of the world.
+Rumour had it that he himself had been seen carrying about pails of
+scalded milk at 4 a.m. This proceeding explains the delicious Devonshire
+cream and butter we are enjoying.</p>
+
+<p>The afternoon was spent in driving or riding round the section to
+inspect various windmills, more groups of cattle, wells, fencing, and
+new alfalfa, etc. Our host, as we were driving round, took the
+opportunity for giving us a short, successful exhibition of buck-jumping
+with his steed, whether willingly or not, neither he nor history
+mentions. At eventide, another excellent repast was provided, and The
+Saint was so impressed by the catering and culinary skill of our host,
+that she decided to inaugurate a prize to be won by the bachelor
+estanciero who shall provide the best meals for the hungry nomads during
+the trip; certainly our host for to-day has put the standard very high
+for the other <a name="Page_211"></a>competitors. A short telephonic communication was held
+during dinner with Our Hostess at Cristobal, and &quot;All's well&quot; was
+reported on both sides.</p>
+
+<a name="Stacking_Alfalfa"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image19.png" width="451" height="453" alt="Stacking Alfalfa." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Stacking Alfalfa.</h4>
+
+<a name="Alfalfa_Elevator_at_Work"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image20.png" width="460" height="398" alt="Alfalfa Elevator at Work." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Alfalfa Elevator at Work.</h4>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 2.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Sunday, March 27th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<p>The party did not sit up late last night; they had a short talk on the
+verandah for the sake of digestion, and then all retired to bed, but
+alas! not to rest. Foolishly they had imagined that mosquitoes were
+things of the past, and no nets were put up, with the result that one
+and all soon learnt that for fresh blood and newcomers there was a
+plethora of these little demons waiting with their irritating song,
+sting, and bite: from some of the party we learn complaints of other
+songs, more human, and more nasal, and it is believed that it was Our
+Guest who was heard at midnight to be murmuring the chorus of a
+favourite song, viz., &quot;Hush, boys! No noise! Silence ebryting! Listen,
+and you'll hear de little angels sing.&quot; At least it says &quot;angels&quot; in the
+song, but the word Our Guest used sounded like &quot;demons,&quot; but probably he
+was dreaming of the &quot;ping&quot; of bullets and the roar of battle as the
+snores resounded through the room, or, one might almost say, through the
+house. Very early this morning there were cries for The Chaperon: he was
+wanted to tell the time; he was wanted to bring water for ablutions; he
+was wanted to tell us when breakfast would be ready; he was wanted to
+give advice or remedies for mosquito bites, and, in general, for a short
+space of time, he justified his existence. When at last the members of
+the party had <a name="Page_212"></a>collected themselves from all sorts of odd corners,
+coffee (with the addition of bacon and eggs, and several other things)
+was served, and the interval, before the order &quot;All aboard&quot; was issued,
+was chiefly occupied in observing and discussing the effects of our
+first night's experience of bichos. Our Guest, after due deliberation,
+laid down some useful rules for future guidance, the chief being, &quot;Never
+be without a Mosquitero&quot;: his face and head were literally enlarged on
+this point, and he assured us that a mosquito's proboscis is an
+impressive point. Apparently The Kid, too, would have liked to give her
+views on mosquitoes and their ways, but her uninteresting remarks were
+cut short by The Wild Man's order of &quot;kennel up,&quot; and, given a bottle of
+cana, she seemed quite happy. Our Guest seemed to have an impression,
+also, that someone had blundered. He knew someone had slumbered (some
+had not), and plaintively he begged that he might be allowed in future
+to sleep at one estancia further ahead of the rest of the party.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the nomads had had some slapping acquaintance with mosquitoes
+during the night, and the showing of bites, swellings, lumps, etc., only
+ended when The Jehu ordered the bugle to be sounded for an onward move.
+We were well under way before half the lamentations had been entered in
+the station complaint book.</p>
+
+<p>Bidding adieu to Polvareda, where the green fields of alfalfa show the
+march of progress, we pushed forward, but as we left we were unable to
+decide whether it was a desire to escape observation (and, perhaps, the
+too-effusive thanks of the lady members of the party), or a violent
+toothache, which caused our host to conceal himself in a huge blanket
+wrapped around his head as we left, but we fear it was toothache that
+necessitated the extra wrappings.</p>
+
+<a name="The_Green_Fields_of_Alfalfa"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image21.png" width="458" height="466" alt="The Green Fields of Alfalfa." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>The Green Fields of Alfalfa.</h4>
+
+<p>We had not gone far on our journey before we crossed the bridge over Las
+Conchas. The manager of the next <a name="Page_213"></a>section met us soon afterwards, and we
+inspected the cattle on his domains. On our way from Polvareda to
+Michelot we passed the emporium of the Universal Provider of the North,
+in other words, &quot;the stores,&quot; where most of the necessities and many of
+the luxuries of life can be obtained. The Saint can never resist the
+desire of a bargain, and others of the party were anxious to see all
+that the stores contained, so we made a halt and inundated the building,
+where everything was extraordinarily neat and clean, shelves piled high
+with bales of bright-coloured cottons, cloths, and handkerchiefs; hats
+hanging in long lines, brilliant saddle-cloths, pipes, knives, tobacco,
+axes, leather goods and harness, every variety of tinned foods, barrels
+of flour, sugar, etc., all arranged with precision, and showing
+cleanliness and method at every turn. Some men were sitting on the
+benches, smoking and drinking and chatting together, for apparently &quot;the
+stores&quot; constitutes the local rendezvous and news agency for miles
+around.</p>
+
+<p>The Saint at once made purchases, for no place is stamped on her memory
+unless she has spent money there. She wanted to make the whole party
+presents of hats, handkerchiefs, or pipes, but she was restrained, and
+ultimately satisfied her generosity by choosing the best saddle-cloth
+the establishment could supply, and one or two hats. We went into the
+living-rooms of the storekeeper, and found the same attractive neatness
+there. A gramophone occupied a side table, and skins and pictures were
+hanging on the walls. The storekeeper's wife and her sister were
+attractive Englishwomen; there were two or three children running about,
+but none of them could speak anything but their father's native
+language. After this inspection we drove on, and we are glad to be able
+to register the fact that Our Guest for once acted up to the first part
+of the old adage, &quot;Earn sixpence a day and live up to it.&quot; The<a name="Page_214"></a> Jehu's
+coach had stayed behind for a while, to allow The Instigator to observe
+and note a great many things which were no business of his at all, and
+the peons had likewise remained, but The Saint, having fulfilled her
+mission of purchasing whenever possible, was content, and anxious to get
+on to the Section house for a rest before her afternoon ride, so The
+Chaperon drove on with his coach, and we are assured, on what we
+consider good authority, that when Our Guest perceived a closed gate in
+the way, and no peon at hand, he leapt from the carriage (perhaps &quot;flew&quot;
+would be a better word) and opened that gate. Possibly he had been fired
+with ambition to earn money while inspecting those crimson and blue
+handkerchiefs at the stores, for we know he appreciates &quot;colours&quot;; but,
+whatever his motive, he <i>did</i> open that gate, and let it be recorded to
+the honour of his fellow-passengers that his action was not allowed to
+pass unappreciated or unrewarded. When all the party were collected at
+Michelot estancia house, lunch was served on the verandah by a
+dour-looking Oriental, who apparently combined the duties of cook and
+parlourmaid in his own somewhat yellow person, and very well he
+performed his task, but as he went silently about his business of
+serving this large party, which he did with a slow precision and
+apparent utter disregard of his master's orders, he reminded us
+irresistibly of the soi-disant American definition of &quot;Life,&quot; and we
+began to wonder whether it were not a Chinaman who summed up existence
+in the words, &quot;After all, Life is only one d&mdash;&mdash;d thing after another.&quot;</p>
+
+<a name="Herd_of_Cattle"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image22.png" width="460" height="458" alt="Herd of Cattle." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Herd of Cattle.</h4>
+
+<p>A short siesta followed lunch, and after an early tea everyone mounted
+horses or carriages and went forth to see the sights of the
+Section&mdash;everyone, that is to say, save The Chaperon, who had other work
+to do; he it was who discovered and averted what might have been a
+disaster. Some <a name="Page_215"></a>members of the party were quite content as long as they
+were given three cups of tea, others fancied cocktails, and some babbled
+for cocoa. It was suddenly found that the supply of this last useful
+article was running short. The Kid not being a cocoa-drinker, casually
+suggested filling up the tin with tannin extract or dust; she said &quot;it
+looked the same and nobody need smell it,&quot; but The Chaperon declined to
+resort to subterfuges and rode off to the stores to supply a deficiency
+caused by his own lack of attention.</p>
+
+<p>At Michelot, as at Polvareda, great progress has been made of late
+years, alfalfa laid down, fences and wells made, and the cattle are
+improving yearly. Our last sight, before the inspection for the day was
+finished, was a wonderful rodeo of 3,000 cattle, which we viewed from
+the vantage point of the banks of a newly made reservoir. It was a
+striking picture, which will not easily be erased from the memory of
+those who saw it. The cattle, with their long continuous lowing, were
+rounded up below us, and away on the horizon the sun was setting with
+the glory one never sees better elsewhere than over a plain, leaving, as
+it rapidly sank from sight, marvellous shades of gold and crimson on the
+fantastically shaped clouds. Save for the animals and their drivers just
+around us, the whole vast space seemed so still and empty, yet on every
+hand were traces of man's labour and skill, conquering a tract of land
+which was almost valueless a few short years back.</p>
+
+<p>On our return to the house we found dinner for us on the verandah. This
+was a delightfully cool method of taking food, but rather apt to attract
+beasties, and although the philosophers and friends of the party
+arranged the lights to keep away insects as much as possible, and
+succeeded in their efforts, some members of the party preferred to take
+no risks and dined with veils wrapped around their heads, only leaving
+their mouths available. The Wild Man caused <a name="Page_216"></a>some excitement before we
+sat down to dinner by introducing us to a beast he called a &quot;railway
+insect.&quot; It certainly strongly resembled a railway train, with its green
+light on its head, red at the tail, and luminous yellow lights all over
+its caterpillar-like body; it was a most interesting discovery, and the
+Wild Man went up in everyone's estimation for a few minutes. The
+Oriental again served us with silent steadiness. It was suggested that
+one of our &quot;boys&quot; should assist him in the task of waiting on the party
+of twelve, but notwithstanding the fact that he had been told he might
+kick round any boy he chose to make an assistant, he waived aside all
+outside help with the words &quot;no good,&quot; and continued on his way
+imperturbably.</p>
+
+<p>The Instigator, with The Delineator and The Jehu, had a long discussion
+after dinner on various Argentine subjects too deep for the ordinary
+mortal, though The Wild Man and The Chaperon seemed to be trying to take
+an intelligent interest in the conversation. Our Guest sat silent,
+looked sad, and on being offered a penny for his thoughts, he murmured
+that he was wondering whether he would be allowed any sleep to-night.
+Doubtless he felt wearied, because, as it is Sunday, The Chaperon had
+been allowed to take a half-day off for his own amusements, and Our
+Guest, perhaps stimulated by his financial success of the morning,
+offered to fulfil the duties of chaperon during his absence; but we
+regret to say that we cannot candidly advise Our Guest to take up
+chaperoning as a means of livelihood, for though willing and tactful, he
+lacks the long training and apprenticeship necessary for continual
+service in this arduous work.</p>
+
+<p>The ladies seemed happier, for they had noted the mosquito nets over
+each bed in their room, and they looked forward to a peaceful night. We
+had our usual communication with Our Hostess over the telephone before
+<a name="Page_217"></a>retiring, and received and gave satisfactory reports from both sides.</p>
+
+<p>A correspondent wishes to know if any of our readers can name the author
+of these lines:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Heaven gives sleep to the bad, in order that the good may be
+undisturbed.&quot; He would also like to know if this generally accepted
+quotation is quite correct, or whether the &quot;un&quot; is a misprint. Replies
+to &quot;O.G.,&quot; c/o THE TACURU.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the innumerable applications which we have received for
+advertising space in our widely circulated periodical, we have decided
+to open our columns to advertisements at the rate of 50 cents per line,
+applications to be sent to &quot;The Advertisement Editor,&quot; THE TACURU
+Offices, c/o The Jehu, First Coach. All orders must be prepaid.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>WANTED.&mdash;Bricklayers who can build straight.&mdash;Apply Manager, Michelot.</p>
+
+<p>RIDING TAUGHT by a lady, side-saddle or astride; fees go to
+Charity.&mdash;Apply &quot;T.S.,&quot; c/o TACURU Offices.</p>
+
+<p>BOOT CLEANING undertaken in best style. Gents', per pair, $1; Ladies',
+per pair, for the asking.&mdash;Orders received by &quot;T.C.,&quot; Offices of this
+Paper.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 3.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Monday, March 28th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<p>Owing to the care with which the mosquito nets had been put up, there
+were few complaints of bites when the party assembled for breakfast, but
+the conversation chiefly degenerated into an argument on phonetics. The
+different rooms held various views on the harmonizing of sounds. Had it
+been a glee competition we should undoubtedly have given the award to
+the verandah party. Sleeping on the bricks seems to bring out the
+sweetness of a treble voice as nothing else can do. The Saint and My
+Lady both remarked that they were very fond of music, but they could not
+appreciate being awakened from their beauty sleeps, by the announcement
+in a raucous voice of &quot;No, thank you.&quot; They do not wish for a moment to
+imply that The Kid was not perfectly justified in refusing whatever she
+did refuse, but they would like her in future to confine her
+conversations to the daytime if possible, and to leave their nights in
+peace. It was a happy thought on the part of The Jehu to suggest a
+picnic at the Waters Meet to-day, before our forward move on to Los
+Moyes, and after breakfast we started out. First we went to inspect the
+site where the new house is to be built, then on to the pretty little
+monte near by, where some picturesque photographs were taken of the
+cavalcade of riders. We paused in this tiny monte, for it is an
+intensely interesting spot from a botanical point of view, and with care
+and attention should be so for some years to come. In an extraordinary
+small compass this wood contains more varied specimens of trees than one
+would ordinarily see in a day's journey. So on to Waters Meet. Here one
+is afforded an opportunity for studying the watershed of this portion of
+Argentina. Three rivers meet here, <a name="Page_219"></a>the Concha, the Calchaqui, and the
+Northern Salado. The latter is the only perennial river in that region;
+it rises in the snowy peaks of the Andes, in the province of Salta,
+miles away, and it is not to be wondered at, that, though it is a
+slow-moving river and meanders through the Gran Chaco, in the times of
+floods its swollen waters overflow their banks and flood immense tracts
+of land. Thomas Page, an American Admiral, in the year 1855, navigated
+this river from its junction with the Parana to the spot where we were
+to-day, but when he went up it there was so little water in the river
+that he had to give up the idea of continuing his pioneer task of
+exploration. It had been his intention to open up the river for trade,
+and there is no reason why this should not be done at some future date.
+The Calchaqui goes under different names at various places. It rises on
+the great swamps on the North-East of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company's
+territory, and flows through a chain of lakes and ca&ntilde;adas until it runs
+into the huge laguna &quot;Del Palmar,&quot; and thence along what used to be the
+Eastern boundary of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company's lands, until it joins
+the Salado.</p>
+
+<p>The Calchaqui must drain at least 150,000 acres of land, and the Rio
+Concha has a watershed of about 60 or 70 thousand acres. It is not known
+what the area of the watershed of the Salado is, but it must be immense;
+therefore it can be understood that the meeting-place of the waters of
+these three rivers is an interesting spot geographically, and we were
+all glad to have seen it. On our arrival at the Water Meet we had our
+first introduction to the native &quot;asado,&quot; and we all hoped it would not
+be the last. The peons collected (apparently from nowhere), in less time
+than it takes to write about, sticks and odds and ends for a fire, over
+the ashes of which they broiled the <a name="Page_220"></a>meat, holding it over the heat on
+long skewers of wood. The meat was brought to us cooked, still on these
+skewers, and each one cut off, or had cut off for them by The Jehu, the
+portion he or she preferred, and a very hearty and merry meal was made
+by all. The resulting silence of repletion was only broken by a murmur
+from The Saint of &quot;My heart is full,&quot; which sentiment, anatomically
+amended, was echoed by all.</p>
+
+<a name="Expanse_of_Alfalfa"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image23.png" width="461" height="455" alt="Expanse of Alfalfa." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Expanse of Alfalfa.</h4>
+
+<p>When active exertion was once more possible everyone repaired to the
+banks of the Waters Meet, and a spot being found where there were no
+dead fish lying about, the ladies (under the tutorship of Our Guest and
+The Jehu) indulged in a little rifle-shooting at bottles. We fear that
+we cannot record any marvellous marksmanship on their part, for the
+bottles were still bobbing about on the water when the ladies' party
+retraced their steps to the &quot;camp.&quot; A cup of tea was suggested before
+the returning drive, and it was thought possible (though not probable)
+that The Kid might be useful on this occasion. However any hopes in this
+direction were speedily dispelled when (after a great deal of noise and
+talk) she appeared with a thick black liquid, which proved absolutely
+undrinkable. True it was poured from a tea-pot, but anything less like
+&quot;tea&quot; as one usually meets it at 5 o'clock, could scarcely be imagined,
+and the air seemed full of the unspoken query, &quot;Has everyone a use in
+this world?&quot; The drive back to the estancia house was as pleasant as
+that of the morning, and there we found the Chinaman (who, owing to the
+strenuous exertions of The Chaperon, now appeared with considerably less
+hair, and obviously a more swollen head), had gauged correctly the
+incompetency of The Kid, in the brewing of his native beverage, and
+consequently had prepared a beverage which might pass for tea, and was
+enjoyed by all. After this refreshment a move was made, the luggage had
+gone <a name="Page_221"></a>on, and the party followed in their two coaches. We now began to
+approach a more pleasing country, and drove through little montes of
+scrub and trees, with a few bright-coloured verbena and cacti growing
+near the ground, making a brave show, and that larger optunia, the
+prickly pear, with its silver grey appearance and the bright crimson of
+its fruit showed up occasionally against the low trees. Altogether, the
+land had a more homelike and less expansive appearance, as it was broken
+up by these little groups of trees. It was a glorious drive. We were
+favoured with another exquisite sunset which shed weird and beautiful
+light over this strangely quiet and empty country. As the four-horse
+char-&agrave;-banc had started some minutes ahead of the more modest two-horse
+vehicle, it was to be supposed that it would reach the destination, Los
+Moyes, first, and we hear that there was some consternation expressed by
+the party of the smaller coach when, on their arrival they found that
+nothing had been heard, or seen, of the more ambitious vehicle. However,
+The Chaperon on being appealed to, impassively murmured &quot;They're all
+right,&quot; and started to give orders for unloading, and putting up beds
+and generally arranging matters as if the section house belonged to him,
+and this callousness on his part, we are told, calmed the others
+sufficiently to allow of their enjoying the remnants of the sunset,
+undisturbed by any thoughts of the horrible fates which might (but were
+not likely to) have overtaken their companions.</p>
+
+<p>Certainly Los Moyes section house is most prettily situated, with an
+expanse of alfalfa beyond the little front garden, and trees in the
+distance opening to show a glimpse of the smallest lake. There are three
+of these lakes not far from the house, and fishing is carried on, by
+means of spearing, in their waters. Long after the last <a name="Page_222"></a>trace of sunset
+had faded from the sky, The Jehu appeared with his coach, and a rush was
+made by the hosts of Los Moyes, and their earlier arrivals, to ascertain
+the cause of this delay. All anxiety was quickly allayed by one glance
+at the face of The Instigator. He was exuberant with joy. The rest of
+the occupants of the coach seemed rather less excited, and more weary,
+as they explained that The Instigator had sighted in the far offing a
+steam plough, and despite murmurs of &quot;the dinner waits and we are tired&quot;
+from The Delineator and The Wild Man, he insisted on investigating that
+plough, in fact on trying it himself, and it was with difficulty he was
+persuaded to return to the coach, and continue the drive home. We
+believe the credit for this latter achievement is due to The Delineator,
+who, with tact worthy of a diplomat, suggested that if an early return
+to the ploughing were made next morning, photos could be obtained of the
+machine and its work. This bait was successful, and The Instigator was
+gently enticed away with promises of &quot;to-morrow.&quot;</p>
+
+<a name="Disc_Plough_at_Work"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image24.png" width="458" height="427" alt="Disc-Plough at Work." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Disc-Plough at Work.</h4>
+<a name="Roadmaker_and_Railroad_Builder"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image25.png" width="454" height="396" alt="Roadmaker and Railroad Builder." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Roadmaker and Railroad Builder.</h4>
+
+<p>After everyone was assured that everyone else was safe, The Instigator
+came back from his Elysium, dreamily to finish the quotation of The
+Delineator and The Wild Man with &quot;Said Gilpin, So am I,&quot; and we all sat
+down to dinner, during which meal much merriment was caused by a
+difference of opinion between The Saint and her host on &quot;dogs and
+species of dogs.&quot; Our enemies, the mosquitoes, were not so virulent as
+usual to-night, perhaps owing to the eucalyptus trees which are growing
+near the house; anyhow the party could venture to sit out after dinner
+on the verandah, which was already covered with beds for the
+accommodation of some of the party. Thus, with an audience seated on
+chairs and beds, The Instigator talked of the plough and of its
+marvellous work in opening up hitherto unused tracts of <a name="Page_223"></a>land. Want of
+labour has retarded development considerably, and until quite recently
+the northern camps were very much handicapped by the lack of labourers,
+and of men with brains to guide the labour. Not only was there a
+deficiency of men, but often so many of the working bullocks were
+drafted off to the forests for timber haulage, that it left a sparseness
+of them for agricultural purposes. The remedy, however, presented itself
+by the utilisation of the traction engine. The breaking-up of fresh
+lands has always been the trouble facing the colonist.</p>
+
+<p>In dry weather it is almost impossible to get the plough, drawn by horse
+or bullock, into the ground, and the drought so punishes the working
+animals that often when rain comes they are too weak for their work, and
+the colonist is unable to take the best advantage of the season, but
+mechanical ploughing obviates all this, and gives him the virgin land in
+such a condition that with the means at hand he is able to cultivate an
+area sufficiently large to ensure him success.</p>
+
+<p>As we sat thus on the verandah in the moonlight, plans were made for the
+following day. It was decided that a visit to the plough should occupy
+the morning, and a row on the lake, or ride round it, the afternoon,
+before proceeding to Lucero. Fishing was spoken of, but we could not
+manage everything in the short time we had at our disposal at Los Moyes,
+so we found that probably the fishing would have to be given up. Thus,
+in the security of the possession of clear consciences and mosquito
+nets, the party retired to rest.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Prepaid advertisements received at the office of this paper before 6
+p.m. will be inserted in the next day's issue.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;M.L.&quot; writes in answer to &quot;O.G.&quot; that the quotation he gives is from
+the writing of the Persian poet S&acirc;di. The quotation is quite correct,
+for though S&acirc;di travelled for a <a name="Page_224"></a>great number of years in Europe, Asia,
+and Africa, he never travelled with the present Company in the
+Argentine, therefore he did not realise that the sleep of the bad could
+disturb the good. Modern thought is inclined to differ from his views.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;Two rubber sponges and two blankets. When finished with, please
+return to the Manager, Michelot.</p>
+
+<p>&pound;10 REWARD.&mdash;Lost, one pearl-drop ear-ring; may be under the carpet.
+Finder will be rewarded as above, on returning same to &quot;T.S.,&quot; Offices
+of this Paper.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 65%;' />
+
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 4.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Tuesday, March 29th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<p>This morning, alas! did not fulfil the promise of last night's sunset,
+for a drizzling rain was falling when the party collected for breakfast,
+and we were afraid that not only would the fishing expedition be
+impossible, but also that the ploughing inspection might have to be
+postponed, and all were anxious, after the enthusiasm of The Instigator,
+to see that engine at work. Our host had sent some men out in the early
+morning to secure fish for our delectation, but they were unable to
+spear more than one, and this large aquatic animal was now hanging up
+under the verandah, causing a great deal of interest to the various
+curious members of the band; needless to say, The Instigator was busy
+divesting the fish of scales, examining them under his ubiquitous
+microscope, and insisting on everyone <a name="Page_225"></a>observing the marvels of Nature
+shown in this manner. We think that this was the psychological moment
+when the rest of the party began to appreciate the powers of that
+microscope, and insinuations were made to the owner that it would be a
+pity to take such a beautiful pocket instrument back to Europe, in case
+any accident should happen to the boat during the voyage, and the
+microscope be lost.</p>
+
+<p>The Delineator and The Wild Man appeared to be the chief favourites for
+the prize, and knowing the acquisitive propensities of The Chaperon, all
+were surprised to note his passiveness during the competition; however,
+he explained his inertia by saying that his sleep had been disturbed by
+visions for which no microscope was needed. He offered to sketch what he
+had seen, but could give no more definite description in words than
+&quot;figures on the blind&quot; and &quot;streaming hair,&quot; so he was left alone to
+recover his nerve. The Jehu then pointed out that his prophecy had
+proved correct, and the misty rain had blown off, leaving a clear sky
+and fine weather, so a start was made <i>en masse</i> for the scene of the
+ploughing operations. A slight lameness on the part of one of the steeds
+made it necessary for the smaller coach to return for change of animals
+after a few hundred yards. The Wild Man occupied the few minutes of this
+delay to the best possible advantage. The owner of the house and
+chattels was away, and The Wild Man, stimulated by The Chaperon made a
+very productive tour of the rooms and verandah, resulting in great
+satisfaction to himself.</p>
+
+<p>When the coach was ready with fresh horses, and The Wild Man had
+satisfied himself that nothing of value had escaped his observation,
+another move forward was made, and on arriving at the ground the smaller
+party found that the occupants of the first coach were already on the
+plough, having ousted the colonists for the time <a name="Page_226"></a>being. This plough was
+working on rough virgin ground, turning over more land in one hour than
+two men and four horses can do in England in a whole day. Each member of
+the party took their turn on the plough, and enjoyed the pleasure
+derived from turning over the untouched soil, and of feeling that they
+were helping to start the development of Nature's truest source of
+wealth. The engine was drawing twenty disc-ploughs, and could plough
+twenty-eight to thirty acres of land a day, week in and week out.</p>
+
+<p>Until recent years land in the Argentine Republic has been ploughed in
+small areas by animal labour, the farmer or colonist often employing the
+members of his family to assist him, and thus saving expense. Owing,
+however, to the immense harvests and the vast tracts of country awaiting
+development, it has become necessary to work on a much bigger scale, and
+to bring in the aid of machinery. In some places the ordinary form of
+steam plough has presented many practical disadvantages. They are heavy
+and unwieldy, and apt to sink in soft ground, from which they are
+extricated with difficulty. This is likely to cause damage, or more
+serious accidents, through explosion. Further, they require a constant
+train of water-carts and fuel wagons, and a staff of at least six
+persons to work them. At the spot where this engine was working the
+latter objections were obviated, as both wood and water were plentiful.
+In general, these difficulties are largely overcome by the adoption of
+the naphtha motor engine, which has been brought to a state of
+considerable perfection in Great Britain and the United States. It can
+be employed not only for ploughing and threshing, but also for traction,
+excavation, and embankment work, etc. An engine and plough will break up
+one hectarea of camp per hour, and some of these machines with two
+relays of workmen will <a name="Page_227"></a>break 108 hectareas per week. In a month of only
+twenty-three working days they will break up a league of camp.</p>
+
+<a name="Ploughing_Virgin_Camp"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image26.png" width="458" height="393" alt="Ploughing Virgin Camp." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Ploughing Virgin Camp.</h4>
+
+<p>The price of naphtha is gradually decreasing in the Argentine Republic,
+and the oil wells of the country will probably make the cost of fuel
+even less by-and-by than it is to-day.</p>
+
+<p>Areas of fertile camp, which have hitherto lain fallow, owing to their
+being intersected by canadas, and difficult to get at, can now be
+treated by the motor plough, with the result that their value will
+rapidly rise. In an actual case near the Central Cordoba Railway, people
+are to-day offering $118 per hectarea for land which was bought two
+years ago for $25 per hectarea, but during the two years it has been
+thoroughly ploughed and drained by mechanical means.</p>
+
+<p>In nearly all the northern lands small trees grow irregularly all over
+the camp, and in order to plough the land these trees must be dug up.
+Machines are manufactured in the United States to deal with land
+containing tree roots. They perform the double operation of cutting
+roots under ground and ploughing up the surface, but they have not yet
+been introduced into the Argentine in large numbers. Other machines dig
+holes for fence posts at the rate of fifty holes per hour, and they can
+be so accurately gauged that the posts may be firmly fixed without
+expending much labour in ramming.</p>
+
+<p>The naphtha engine is likewise used with great advantage for traction
+purposes. A striking instance of this is to be found at Rio Gallegos,
+where many naphtha engines are engaged in the work of carrying wool over
+a track of more than 300 kilometres, a feat which would be quite
+impossible with animal labour, owing to the rocky and broken condition
+of the roads.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_228"></a>As the Santa F&eacute; Land Company owns a great diversity of land, they have
+used both the steam traction and the naphtha engines, and time will show
+which machine is to be recommended.</p>
+
+<p>It is a pity that the agricultural implement importers of Buenos Aires
+should have recently formed themselves into a ring to lift prices,
+because their doing so will certainly tend to lessen the progress which
+agriculture is making in the Argentine. These combinations, however,
+will not deter the Company from continuing its &quot;march of progress,&quot; but
+it comes hard on the colonist, who, after all, is the chief factor in
+building up the fortunes of the great importing houses of Buenos Aires.</p>
+
+<p>One of the greatest competitors of the British-built traction engine is
+the Hart-Parr oil engine, a splendid agricultural tool, which is
+invaluable where ordinary fuel is not easily procurable.</p>
+
+<p>It was with great difficulty The Instigator could be persuaded to leave
+the plough, and at one time his enthusiasm (and the engine) carried him
+out of sight, and those remaining at the starting-point grew speculative
+as to whether he would return before dark. However, a recommencement of
+drizzling rain apparently cooled his ardour, and restored him to the
+party. The nomads gladly turned their thoughts and coaches towards the
+section house, realising as they went the sweet truth of the words, &quot;The
+ploughman homeward plods his weary way.&quot; Lunch awaited them, and the
+fish of the morning appeared in a more pleasant guise, to be enjoyed by
+all. After lunch, the rain showing no signs of clearing off, the party
+had to give up all idea of the lake proper, but watched one form in
+front of the house instead, and wondered how it would be negotiated when
+the time came for an onward move. So they sat on chairs, baggage and
+benches under the verandah, and tried <a name="Page_229"></a>to keep awake, while observing
+the steady downpour. One member of the party at last gave up the
+struggle against the inevitable, and sank gracefully into the arms of
+Morpheus, represented by the bags of biscuits and other impedimenta. A
+photo was secured of him as he lay half concealed amongst the
+portmanteaux, packages and &quot;pan.&quot; We refrain from publishing it, because
+the chief feature of the picture is in the boots of the sleeper. (We
+trust no weak humour is intended in the preceding paragraph?&mdash;EDITOR.)</p>
+
+<a name="Hart_Parr_Engine_drawing_Roadmaker"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image27.png" width="462" height="380" alt="Hart-Parr Engine, drawing Roadmaker." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Hart-Parr Engine, drawing Roadmaker.</h4>
+
+<p>A slight diversion was caused by a repacking of some goods after lunch.
+It seems that the bottles, with contents (a most important item), had
+been forgotten, and The Wild Man was approached with a request that the
+bottles might be transported to Lucero in his bag; of course, he
+cheerily acquiesced, but as the whole of the contents of his bag had to
+be turned out to pack the bottles scientifically, and as that bag
+happened to be the same receptacle in which The Wild Man had secreted
+the various articles collected during his tour of appreciation this
+morning, developments were interesting to all, save to the man who had
+laboured under the delusion that several horns and other articles which
+appeared from the bag, were still in his own possession. However,
+probably remembering The Wild Man's character (<i>vide</i> page 205), he said
+nothing, but calmly looked on as his goods were repacked and removed
+from his sight for ever. All honour to such unselfishness.</p>
+
+<p>After a cup of tea and farewells, the ladies were transferred to the
+coaches in a highly skilled manner, and a damp drive to Lucero followed.
+One sheet of drizzling rain surrounded us all through the journey, and
+none were sorry when, after a side slip or two, the coaches drew up (not
+before it was quite dark) outside the estancia house. A change into dry
+garments was very welcome, and there was to be noticed for the first
+time since the start <a name="Page_230"></a>of the Tacuruers, a dull air of respectability
+over the party, as they collected for their evening meal.</p>
+
+<p>Shirt fronts and pretty frocks appeared once more, for here we had a
+lady presiding over the table. Still the old proverb proved true &quot;Fine
+feathers do not make fine birds,&quot; and some members of the party did not
+live up to their costumes. It may have been the good dinner, or the
+genial glow of a fire that upset their behaviour, but the fact remains
+that there were two or three unusual occurrences during the course of a
+merry meal. The Kid was observed to be burying her face in a spoonful of
+jelly, and others seemed to be performing a sort of a general post
+during the repast. However, all ended well, and after coffee various
+home pets were introduced by our hostess, who is a devoted lover of
+animals. A nutria appeared and some friendly dogs, and we heard of tame
+foxes and diminutive ponies to be seen next day. It was a great regret
+to everyone that The Delineator did not put in an appearance for dinner;
+he pleaded headache and retired to bed early, perhaps in the hope of
+getting some sleep before The Instigator came to share the room.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>HARD CASE NO. 1.&mdash;&quot;T.K.&quot; writes to inquire the proper procedure under
+the following circumstances:&mdash;&quot;A lady receives a plate of jelly at
+dinner, the gentleman on her right at once takes up her spoon and
+commences to feed her with the jelly.&quot; What should she do? And if she
+allows herself to be fed, is it etiquette, this year, for the gentleman
+on her left to give her a slight push, which results in her nose meeting
+the jelly in the spoon? We offer the problems to our readers, and a
+prize will be awarded for the best solution sent in.</p><a name="Page_231"></a>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;One pair deer's horns, nicely coloured. If this advertisement
+meets the eye of T.W.M. the owner would be very glad to have the horns
+returned to Michelot, but does not wish to make a point of it.</p>
+
+<p>FOUND.&mdash;The reward of &pound;10 for lost ear-ring is withdrawn; owner found
+lost property herself, and has paid for her advertisement.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 5.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Wednesday, March 30th, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+
+<p>Much to everyone's relief The Delineator appeared at breakfast looking
+himself again; he replied to the enquiries showered upon him that his
+indisposition could be explained in the words used by Herbert Spencer,
+when he defined life as &quot;The continuous adjustment of internal relations
+to external relations.&quot; The Delineator said that that formula, when one
+considered the various cookings, including the Oriental style we had
+lately sampled, exactly described the cause of his passing illness, from
+which he was now happily recovered.</p>
+
+<p>The morning was bright, and nothing but the drying mud remained to
+remind us of the rains of yesterday. At breakfast some strange tales
+were told of a frightened nutria which generally slept peacefully under
+a wardrobe in the dressing-room; but last night the room had another
+occupant, whose sleep was not so peaceful as that of the nutria, and at
+the first sound of a snore the poor animal was so scared that it leapt
+from its usual bed and rushed round the room till it found a way of
+escape, through the window, to a more restful soot.</p><a name="Page_232"></a>
+
+<p>Cattle-dipping was to be the sight of the morning, and as soon as the
+out-door menagerie was explored, under the guidance of our hostess, who
+has a wonderful knack with all animals, the coach and cavalcade of
+riders set forth to the scene of operations. Here we found a large
+number of animals ready to be dipped. This process is necessary to clean
+the animals from the garrapata. This is a tick which has been, and still
+is, the terror of the north. It is the means of transmitting to cattle
+the disease known as &quot;Texas Fever.&quot; The rough native cattle do not
+suffer badly from this fever, but any newly imported fine stock from the
+south generally succumb to it.</p>
+
+<p>Time after time wealthy men who realized the menace this pest was to the
+north have attempted to fight it, but their efforts have not been
+successful. Often their loss has been immense, sometimes as many as 95%
+of the total animals brought into the neighbourhood from the Province of
+Buenos Aires have died.</p>
+
+<p>Undoubtedly these constant failures helped to give the northern district
+a bad name, but the experiments with the animals should have been
+carried on by means of acclimatisation. Animals for the north should be
+carefully handled, and with constant vigilance, adapted to their
+surroundings. These are the principles on which the Santa F&eacute; Land
+Company have been working, and they confidently predict that before long
+they will be selling pedigree bulls with tick on them. When this is an
+accomplished fact, another great barrier to the progress of the north
+will have been broken down.</p>
+
+
+<a name="Cattle_leaving_Dip"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image28.png" width="460" height="453" alt="Cattle leaving Dip." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Cattle leaving Dip.</h4>
+
+<p>The cattle tick has two phases in its life.</p>
+
+<p>After establishing itself on the animal, the tick becomes a blood
+sucker, and at certain seasons animals running wild over unbroken camps,
+become literally covered with these bichos; consequently the cattle fall
+back in condition, and <a name="Page_233"></a>the mortality amongst them mounts up to an
+appallingly large percentage. To obviate this the dip is used, and has
+come into general use. The animals are collected from afar, and brought
+into the corral (a strong enclosure), from which there is a wooden
+passage, having many contrivances useful for marking, branding, and
+dehorning cattle, all of which are used in their due season; but for
+dipping purposes this passage terminates in a precipitous slope, and the
+animals are gently forced along it from the corral to plunge suddenly
+into a prepared bath of a strong solution, which kills every tick; so it
+follows, that if the animal has been totally submerged, it is absolutely
+free from the parasite. The object of dipping is to kill all kinds of
+insects and parasites which trouble the bovine race; especially so the
+common Louse (the Dermatodectis Bovis) which is the scab producer. The
+worst pest is, however, the cattle tick or Garrapata, and known under
+the scientific name of Boophilus Annulatus.</p>
+
+<p>This latter is the harbinger of the microbe of Texas Fever or Tristeza,
+as it is known in the Argentine.</p>
+
+<p>The remedies that are principally employed are of a tarry basis and
+prepared so as to be easily mixed with water, usually in the proportion
+of 1 to 100.</p>
+
+<p>The amount of mixture used is 2.60 litres, and the cost works out at 10
+cents. per head.</p>
+
+<p>The greatest number of animals that the Santa F&eacute; Land Company have been
+able to put through the dip in a day is 6,700, working from 6 a.m. to 5
+p.m.</p>
+
+<p>Animals certainly are frightened the first time they take this bath, but
+very soon they find the comfort of its effect, and come to like and
+enjoy it. The cattle we saw dipped to-day had mostly been through the
+process several times before, and walked calmly down the passage,
+seeming to enjoy their scramble through the dip. On emerging from <a name="Page_234"></a>the
+dip, the animals stand in a small corral on the other side, and are kept
+there for a while to allow the liquor to drain off their hides, and find
+its way back to the tank.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the younger animals seemed scared at the first plunge, and
+though a very great point is made of the fact that they must all be
+collected and driven into the corral and down the passage, with the
+utmost gentleness, some of them grew so disturbed at the unusual
+proceeding, that they leapt on to the animal in front instead of sliding
+down the dip as the older animals do. However, there are always plenty
+of men under the superintendence of the mayor-domo to see that no harm
+comes to any animal, and though in the early days of dips, broken legs
+were not unusual occurrences, nowadays there are very seldom any
+accidents, though thousands of animals may be dipped in a few hours. One
+man holds a curious sort of wide blunt prong, with which he presses the
+heads of any animals, who have not been totally immersed, under the
+liquid as they pass him, thus ensuring the destruction of all parasites.</p>
+
+<p>After this inspection The Instigator and company were taken on to see
+land which was being broken by bullocks, and thence to the Rio Salado,
+(which we are hoping to negotiate much further north to-morrow), and
+returned in time for lunch. After a short pause for rest and a cup of
+tea, the party, this time with their host and hostess, set off for
+various windmills, earth tanks, etc., which were of recent erection, and
+were to be reviewed by The Instigator. Everything he saw seemed to give
+satisfaction, and a weary but happy band returned to the house for
+dinner, in the course of which some native dishes were introduced to us.</p>
+
+<p>Another lovely sunset favoured us this evening as we drove homewards,
+and we hear that My Lady and The Wild Man almost came to a serious
+quarrel over the shapes of various beautifully tinted clouds. One said a
+certain <a name="Page_235"></a>cloud resembled a bear, the other said it was exactly like a
+pork pie &quot;shot&quot; with a diamond tiara, and the matter was still under
+bitter discussion long after the cloud in question had faded away into a
+nebulous mist. The evening was calm and still, and we all sat outside
+after coffee, discussing the unknown journey of to-morrow, and the
+perils that might befall us on our way across the camps. The Instigator
+talked emphatically, and quite unnecessarily, of &quot;an early start is
+imperative,&quot; till we all grew tired of his insistence and retired to
+bed, where some of the party wondered under what circumstances they
+would be sleeping to-morrow.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>CORRESPONDENCE.</h4>
+
+<blockquote><p>LUCERO, <i>March 30th, 1910.</i> DEAR SIR,</p>
+
+<p>     May I use the valuable medium of your paper for the purpose of
+     announcing that anyone who wishes to accompany the explorers on the
+     excursion, under the guidance of The Jehu and myself to the wild
+     north, must be ready, decently clothed and fed, with a supply of
+     patience and drinkables in their personal luggage, not later than 6
+     a.m., to-morrow, March 31st, 1910.</p>
+
+<p>     I am, Yours, etc., THE INSTIGATOR.</p>
+
+<p>     P.S.&mdash;While taking suitable precautions for the safety and
+     happiness of those who entrust themselves to our care, we wish it
+     to be understood that we cannot hold ourselves responsible for any
+     loss of wearing apparel or other goods, temper, meals, or rest,
+     caused by rain, mosquitoes, frogs, snakes, overeating, or the
+     incompatibility of other passengers, or from any cause
+     whatsoever.&mdash;T.I.</p></blockquote><a name="Page_236"></a>
+
+<blockquote><p><i>To the Editor of &quot;The Tacuru.&quot;</i></p>
+
+<p>     <i>March 30th, 1910</i>.</p>
+
+<p>     SIR,</p>
+
+<p>     We should be glad to know if anything can be done to stop the
+     public nuisance in the shape of the amalgamation of two members of
+     the party, who are obviously descended from some long ago Christy
+     Minstrels. We believe that, taken separately, one at a time, at
+     long intervals, the aforesaid members can be tolerated for a few
+     minutes (personally, we find them nauseating to a degree, under the
+     most favourable circumstances), but together, when they attempt to
+     be bright and amusing, and fancy they have a sense of humour and
+     intelligent wit, they are absolutely impossible. They might have
+     been useful (say in 1500) as the final torture decreed by the
+     Inquisition, but in this year of grace of 1910, they are
+     unwarrantable, and we shall be grateful if immediate steps can be
+     taken for their separation, if not for their entire suppression. We
+     are, Dear Sir, still suffering from violent headaches, caused by
+     being shut up in the same coach for three hours with these
+     imbeciles.</p>
+
+<p>     Yours truly,</p>
+
+<p>     T.D. and M.L.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>HARD CASE No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>The prize of five cents has been awarded to a correspondent O.G. (who is
+requested to forward his real name and address as soon as possible) for
+the best solution to the Hard Case we published yesterday. He says that
+in those circumstances the lady should undoubtedly allow herself to be
+fed, and should do all in her power by opening her mouth widely, and
+turning her head slightly in the direction of the gentleman on her
+right, to assist him in his self-imposed <a name="Page_237"></a>task, and thus to avoid giving
+him the impression that he had committed an unusual social solecism in
+commencing to feed her.</p>
+
+<p>Numerous correspondents have sent in solutions, but we consider the
+above the best. Several answers have also been sent to the second part
+of the question, and all agree that the gentleman on the left had no
+shadow of excuse for causing the lady's nose to rest in the jelly. Such
+a proceeding is totally without precedent in the highest circles.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 65%;' />
+
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 6.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Thursday, March 31st, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<h5>THE LARGEST CIRCULATION OF ANY DAILY PAPER PUBLISHED ON THIS TRIP.</h5>
+
+<p>Everyone was astir early this morning, remembering The Instigator's
+final warning last night of the necessity for an early start, but, on
+assembling for breakfast at 7 a.m., The Instigator himself was missed.
+His hawk-like eye (we apologise to Our Guest) had noticed some Galpon,
+or drinking trough, or something, which he must, of course, investigate
+before leaving Lucero, and dragging off The Delineator and The Jehu, he
+quite forgot breakfast and the &quot;early start,&quot; as he fussed over his
+new-found interest, and it was not until he was captured forcibly by a
+search party that his companions were allowed to come in to
+breakfast&mdash;after the rest of the party had finished. Much to everyone's
+delight the morning was bright and fine, and all promised favourably for
+the excursion into the unknown.</p><a name="Page_238"></a>
+
+<p>While waiting for the start, considerable interest was caused by the
+home-building operations of some birds, who were constructing a nest
+under the eaves of the outbuilding, and manipulating the mud for its
+construction in a most clever manner. One bird flew off to get some mud
+while the other energetically fashioned the last piece into shape in the
+nest, then, when the first returned, the second bird flew off to get her
+contribution of clay; so the moulding of that nest grew apace while we
+watched its progress.</p>
+
+<p>Before we set out a pleading message came (and it was not the first,
+either) from those left at headquarters, begging us to give up our
+exploration scheme, and, in view of weather reports, to return in peace
+to the civilisation of San Cristobal; but needless to say, nothing
+daunted, The Instigator still kept to his determination to see all there
+was to be seen, and the more people try to dissuade him from a thing,
+once he has decided to do it, the more fixed becomes his intention to do
+that thing. So, expostulations were useless, the final preparations and
+farewells were made, a last communication held with Our Hostess at
+Cristobal, before our passing into the wilds, and the Tacuru coaches
+with their freight of precious humans, and still more precious food and
+drink, started off from their pleasant rest at Lucero. Someone was heard
+to murmur as the coaches drove off&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;Then hey! for boot and horse, lad,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And round the world away;<br /></span>
+<span>The Instigator <i>must</i> have his tour, lad,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">And <i>never</i> will give way!&quot;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But this puerile parody met with the indifference it deserved, and,
+accompanied by the Section Manager, we commenced our journey, travelling
+for some hours over the land which is in his charge. &quot;Monte,&quot; too,
+seemed to consider that his <a name="Page_239"></a>presence as a guide and friend would be
+necessary to the party, and came along with us; he is a &quot;wild&quot; dog of
+the deerhound type, who was taken as a tiny puppy from a litter found in
+a wood near Los Moyes, and has ever since been devoted to his captors.
+There is a calm air of disinterested abstraction about &quot;Monte&quot; which is
+very satisfying, and he is undoubtedly a philosopher. One of the two
+Indian guides we picked up during the day's journey also had a dog, but
+it was of a very different appearance and character to &quot;Monte.&quot; &quot;Monte&quot;
+looked on mankind in general as needing his care and supervision, while
+the little black smooth-haired terrier felt &quot;the great passion&quot; for one
+alone. His master was evidently his god, and if he lost sight of
+&quot;master&quot; for two minutes it was really touching to hear his cries,
+almost like those of a child, as he tried to trace his master through
+the shallow water which we sometimes crossed.</p>
+
+<p>His yelps as he splashed along, nose to the ground, almost voiced the
+sentiment:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;Rank and wealth I pass unheeding,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Never giving them their due;<br /></span>
+<span>For my heart and soul are needing,<br /></span>
+<span class="i2">Nothing in the world but &quot;YOU!&quot;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And he and his &quot;YOU&quot; were never very far apart.</p>
+
+<p>In a country where kindness to animals is not considered necessary, and
+is very rarely found, this example of devotion between dog and man was
+all the more noticeable and appreciated. Needless to say, as soon as The
+Saint observed it she wanted to &quot;give the man a present,&quot; and was only
+restrained from doing so because she had nothing suitable for
+presentation in her luggage, or in that of The Instigator.</p>
+
+<p>About one o'clock we came to the banks of the Salado, concerning the
+crossing of which river we had heard so <a name="Page_240"></a>much. We had been told it was
+impossible and impassable; that the rains had swollen the river too much
+for a safe passage; that at the best of times the banks were too steep
+and slippery for carts to negotiate, and that all idea of crossing had
+better be given up. The Instigator and The Jehu merely smiled when they
+heard of these difficulties, but some members of the party had wondered
+how the traversing of that river was to be accomplished, and they were
+agreeably surprised, on reaching the spot chosen for crossing, to find
+that a tenant had built a narrow &quot;tajamar,&quot; or earth bank, across the
+river, which at this place was not very wide. Everyone dismounted, the
+horses were taken out, and all hands were in request to pull the
+vehicles across. First went the coaches, then the luggage carts were
+dragged over. To illustrate the difficulties of the proceedings we
+publish one of the many photos taken, during the crossing of the
+tajamar. Our Guest was one of the first to help in the conveyance of
+these carts. Apparently, since the gate-opening episode, he has &quot;learnt
+the wisdom early to discern true beauty in utility,&quot; for he is always to
+the fore when work is to be done, and in this case his athletic training
+proved the truth of the Yankee expression that &quot;It's muscle that tells.&quot;
+The Delineator and The Wild Man, as usual, when real hard work presents
+itself, &quot;thought the party would like photographs of it,&quot; and, armed
+with their cameras, retired to safe distances, where the work could not
+possibly interfere with them or they with it, and took photos of the
+progress of the carts. We cannot complain, however, of their action (or
+inaction, rather), for the resulting pictures make a good memorial of
+the crossing of the Salado by the &quot;Tacuruers.&quot; The ladies rushed to
+assist when they saw that photos were being taken, but, as the carts
+were well over the danger line by the time the ladies <a name="Page_241"></a>were at the
+ropes, we have no pictured record of their deeds, which, we may note,
+were really quite valueless at this point.</p>
+
+<a name="Crossing_the_Salado"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image29.png" width="465" height="421" alt="Crossing the Salado." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Crossing the Salado.</h4>
+
+<a name="The_Effect_of_a_Long_Drought"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image30.png" width="468" height="458" alt="The Effect of a Long Drought." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>The Effect of a Long Drought.</h4>
+
+<p>Once the horses, carts, and luggage were safely across the tajamar the
+more serious business of cocktails and lunch was thought of, and, in an
+incredibly short time, the usual asado of meat, brought from Lucero, was
+under discussion.</p>
+
+<p>The unfortunate sheep who were still spared were let out for a short
+run.</p>
+
+<p>The Kid, too, was set free in the hopes that she might possibly prove
+useful now, but, judging from her attitude during the preparations for
+lunch, we should say those hopes would not be fulfilled.</p>
+
+<p>As we rest after our arduous crossing of the Salado, our thoughts are
+inclined to wander to the awful tragedy enacted here in the year 1904.
+It was a disastrous year for many of the northern camp men. There was an
+appalling drought of long continuation, for which all the northern camps
+were totally unprepared; the river over which we have just passed became
+the concentration spot for all that is most terrible at such times. It
+is not exaggerating the case when we say that 15,000 animals (some of
+them having travelled south for 100 miles or more), forced by instinct,
+and guided by wire fences, came to drink from the foul, polluted chain
+of water-holes which then represented this river. One can imagine the
+horror and distress of it all&mdash;not a blade of grass for miles, where
+to-day the vegetation is luxuriant, and not a drop of water in this
+river on whose banks we are resting, only a few mud-holes in which
+hundreds of decaying carcases were embedded. This is what the cattle
+found after their long journey south, through which they were daily
+growing weaker. It is not surprising to hear that, at one place <a name="Page_242"></a>alone
+on the river-bed, over 3,000 hides were taken off dead animals, and,
+probably, it is well within the mark to say that at least another 1,000
+were lost. Well may we wonder, &quot;Why this terrible suffering and loss?&quot;
+And the answer comes back, &quot;Human negligence.&quot; It was the want of wells
+which caused all this misery; cattle will bear drought for a long time,
+but the actual want of water maddens them and causes the death of
+thousands. If the northern camps are to be colonised and are to become
+prosperous, the first necessity is the obtaining of a supply of good
+water; second in importance only to the water supply is the fencing of
+the camps, by which means a control over the cattle is established;
+refined camps, better grasses, and alfalfa, will all follow in due
+course; and anyone who has studied these northern lands would have no
+hesitation in predicting that these camps will, in time, prove just as
+profitable as any in the vast Republic of Argentina, and this is saying
+a good deal, as those who have travelled over the rich southern camps
+will realise. But, for his own sake, and for the sake of the cattle in
+his care, let it be the first business of the estanciero to provide good
+and sufficient wells, so that the terrible history of 1904 may never be
+repeated.</p>
+
+<a name="Refined_Camps"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image31.png" width="458" height="462" alt="Refined Camps." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Refined Camps.</h4>
+
+<p>However, the scene is different to-day, with a pleasant sunshine, the
+crisp air sweeping over the uncultivated camp of natural grasses, and
+plenty of water in the river; but we cannot linger, so, after the pipe
+of peace for some, and a short siesta for others, &quot;the all-aboard&quot; bugle
+was sounded, horses were put in, carts packed once more, and, after a
+farewell to our host&mdash;who was returning to the section house&mdash;we went on
+ahead into the wilder regions, and had a pleasant, though rather short,
+drive for two or three hours before The Jehu called a halt. He explained
+that <a name="Page_243"></a>we should require at least an hour for the unloading and erection
+of the tents, tables, etc., before dusk; therefore, as the sun was only
+a hand's breadth from the horizon (roughly speaking, an hour before
+setting), we must dismount. He had chosen a pleasant spot for the camp
+of the night, not far from a small ranch, and here the coaches halted.
+Of course the luggage carts could not come up until some time later, as
+their loads were so much heavier, and My Lady became even more popular
+than usual when she suggested that the wait should be beguiled with a
+cup of tea, and produced her tea-basket from the coach; true, we found
+that there was no tea, but My Lady had plenty of cocoa. Water was
+obtained from the house near by, and a very welcome cup of cocoa handed
+round, accompanied by an unexpected slice of cake which apparently
+appeared from nowhere, and which disappeared equally effectively, for it
+was decidedly useful fodder and appreciated as such by all.</p>
+
+<p>We discovered here that our friend &quot;Monte&quot; had declined to go back after
+lunch with his present master to Lucero, but had chosen to accompany his
+past master on this expedition. His presence was an agreeable surprise.
+He was found surveying the party with his calm scrutiny, and apparently
+he approved of our spot for camping, also of the cake.</p>
+
+<p>As The Chaperon could find no work to do before the carts arrived, he,
+for once, relaxed from his terrible strain of usefulness, and tided over
+the tedious hour by trying to &quot;throw the knife&quot; in the most approved
+cowboy manner. As each member of the party had had their &quot;tea&quot; (he was
+practising with the knife which was used for the carving of the
+cake&mdash;and anything else, when needed), no one objected to this harmless
+amusement on his part, provided he did not pitch the knife on to their
+toes; and, after long exercise, <a name="Page_244"></a>with the help of The Wild Man, who is
+an adept at these tricks, The Chaperon at last succeeded in &quot;throwing
+the knife&quot; to his satisfaction, and others' terror. A sigh of relief
+escaped the lips of those who were dodging the knife when they saw the
+luggage-carts looming in the distance. They at once drew the attention
+of The Chaperon to the approach of the carts, and were rejoiced to see
+him return the weapon to its sheath (in his leggings), and stiffen into
+the attitude of action once more.</p>
+
+<p>No sooner were the carts on the spot than every member of the party was
+at work, or pretending to be so. Poles were taken off the carts, luggage
+uncovered, canvas was everywhere, yells for &quot;the mallet&quot; alternated with
+the resounding blows struck, with the same, by the strong men of the
+band, tent-pegs bristled all over the ground, everyone wanted the hammer
+at the same time, and apparent chaos reigned for half an hour; then,
+behold! as by magic, the din ceased, two tents had been securely
+erected, floored with canvas, the luggage was placed under another
+covering of canvas, a table, with plates, knives, forks, etc., was ready
+in an open space, camp-stools stood around it, beds, blankets, sheets
+and pillows galore were in each tent, and the smell of roasting meat in
+the distance rose pleasantly upon the air. The place looked as if the
+party had been accustomed to camp there regularly once a week, so well
+was everything arranged. Nothing had been forgotten which could add
+comfort, for all hands had been working hard, and each peon, too, had
+done his share; in fact, the sight would have rejoiced the soul of the
+most ardent, red-tied Socialist, for surely never did a community carry
+out more thoroughly the principle of &quot;each one working for the happiness
+of others.&quot; True, there was no trade union to limit their exertions, but
+that was an omission for which we may be thankful.</p><a name="Page_245"></a>
+
+<p>As the dusk quickly deepened, the peons gathered round their fire, over
+which the meat was cooking, a little distance from the camp site; the
+lamps were lit and hung from poles, and the party looked with
+satisfaction on their handiwork. It would have made an interesting, and
+not unpicturesque illustration, if one could have obtained a photo of
+the &quot;Primera Vista&quot; camp that evening.</p>
+
+<p>But it was at this time, just when all seemed smiling and happy, that
+the travellers were to go through their first real trial, for here the
+discovery was made of a serious loss. It was spoken of in whispers at
+first, but gradually the whispers increased to a murmur as the loss
+became generally known; yet neither man nor woman quailed, and none
+could have told from their outward bearing the bitter struggle they were
+inwardly facing. A cynical traveller once said, after noting the
+innumerable number of statues in the land, &quot;South America has evidently
+produced a phenomenal number of heroes,&quot; but we are inclined to think
+their tale has not been told if those who bore their trouble so bravely
+that night are to be &quot;unhonoured and unsung.&quot; Think what it meant, you
+who may read this, in years to come, in civilised places, comfortably
+seated in your armchairs, conveniently near the cellaret, and,&mdash;honour
+our brave! They had at least two days to face (with no prospect of
+obtaining supplies anywhere) and they discovered, here, that <i>the case
+of whisky was lost,</i> left behind, vanished&mdash;they knew not what, only
+that it had disappeared!</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>Theirs not to reason why,<br /></span>
+<span>Theirs not to moan or sigh,<br /></span>
+<span>E'en though their throats were dry,<br /></span>
+<span class="i8">Noble &quot;Tacuruers&quot;!<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>True, the comforting thought that they still had a bottle and a-half of
+the precious drink with them may have helped them to keep their spirits
+up with the hope of pouring <a name="Page_246"></a>spirits down, but a bottle and a-half is
+not much amongst so many thirsty souls for three days, and, we repeat,
+that great courage and bravery was shown by the equanimity with which
+the party bore the news of their loss.</p>
+
+<p>A minor loss was that the dinner napkins were not forthcoming, but that
+surprised no one, for they were in the charge of The Kid, and, of
+course, she had forgotten them at Lucero. We believe she said something
+about their being &quot;left to be washed&quot; there, but no one listened to her,
+and we used glass cloths instead.</p>
+
+<p>At our first camp evening meal everyone did justice to the goods that
+The Chaperon provided. Coffee was not forgotten, and, after their
+dinner, the more musical members of the band tried to sing&mdash;it kept the
+mosquitoes off&mdash;and when &quot;a catch&quot; was attempted even the bicho colorado
+was cowed into silence. We had looked forward to hearing the guitar
+played by one of the peons here. He had brought his instrument with him,
+but, unfortunately, had dropped a large packing case upon it, which did
+not improve its tone, and this accident prevented our hearing the
+national dances played on a guitar in the open camp as we had hoped to
+do.</p>
+
+<p>Weary with the exertions of the day the party turned their thoughts and
+steps early towards those tents where rows of little bedsteads, each
+with its mosquito net above, looked so attractively inviting, and before
+long lights were out and peace reigned as far as possible.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span>&quot;Thus done the Vales to bed they creep,<br /></span>
+<span>By whispering winds soon lulled asleep.&quot;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Guards were set and they, with Monte, were left to protect the horses
+and camp through the night.</p>
+
+<a name="Page_247"></a>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<h4>CORRESPONDENCE.</h4>
+
+<blockquote><p><i>March 31st, 1910.</i></p>
+
+<p>     SIR,</p>
+
+<p>     I feel that, as I am in a measure responsible for the presence of
+     the two people to whom your correspondents of yesterday object, I
+     should like to apologise, through the medium of your paper, for the
+     inconvenience these two people have caused, and to assure your
+     correspondents that steps shall be taken to prevent a repetition of
+     the annoyance. The fact is, that both of them are so rarely out of
+     Bedlam at the same time that I had not realised the necessity for
+     keeping them apart, nor the danger of their amalgamation, but they
+     shall be kept in separate coaches in future, and I can only express
+     my sincere regret for the mischief and trouble they have caused.</p>
+
+<p>     I am,</p>
+
+<p>     Yours, etc.,</p>
+
+<p>     THE INSTIGATOR.</p></blockquote>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>A correspondent writes to know if any of our readers can solve the
+following problem for her:&mdash;&quot;'A' starts on a seven days' journey with
+eighty-seven horses, he loses two, one of which he finds next day, and
+at the end of the week has 110 horses.&quot; The enquirer has searched
+through her &quot;Hamblin Smith&quot; but can find no honest method of solution.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>EXPERT GUIDE.&mdash;Anyone requiring a really good guide, thoroughly
+conversant with the Chaco, ways of wild Indians and animals, please
+apply &quot;T.W.M.,&quot; Offices of this <a name="Page_248"></a>paper. Good shot, can cook and sew,
+able to point out all the beauties of nature, animal and vegetable.
+Terms moderate. Inspires confidence in the most timid ladies by his
+winning smile.</p>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;One tin of gingerbread biscuits (Huntley &amp; Palmer). No reward is
+offered, as they will probably be eaten by the time this advertisement
+is in print. If anyone would return the tin, as a recuerdo, to Lucero,
+advertiser would be obliged.</p>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;Lucero. Several good horses.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>Several correspondents have written to know whether it is not a menace
+to the rest of the community for one member of the band to sleep
+promiscuously on the bricks, or anywhere else handy, at night. Two or
+three say they have tripped over him in the dark and consider it would
+be a safeguard if anyone preferring to spend the night in this way were
+compelled by law to burn an anchor or other light. They are quite
+willing to believe that the offender had had at least one &quot;starboard
+light&quot; at some period of that night, but that light had lost its power
+of illumination at the time our correspondents tripped over the
+prostrate figure, and they wish to suggest that in future, people
+sleeping out should use some means to safeguard unwary passers-by. (We
+give the complaint the publicity it deserves and trust steps will be
+taken to right the matter.&mdash;ED.)</p><a name="Page_249"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 7.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Friday, April 1st, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<h5>ADVERTISE IN &quot;THE TACURU&quot;&mdash;THIS ENSURES YOUR WANTS BEING KNOWN IN EVERY
+COACH.</h5>
+
+
+<p>We fancy that most of the party were awake to see the dawn this morning:
+it may have been that they only saw the first streaks of light between
+the openings of their tent as they lay in bed trying to soothe the
+itching of the mosquito bites, but we think that few were asleep as the
+sun rose gloriously from the mists on the horizon. It was a strange
+sight, the sudden flooding with bright sunlight of that rough camp land,
+which scarcely owned a tree or shrub. It may be the primitive barbarian
+lying dormant in all of us though hidden under generations of
+civilization, which makes us feel a close communion with Nature when we
+see her in these great uncultivated wastes; but, whatever the causes of
+the sympathy, these pictures, of wild untouched Nature, leave an
+impression and a longing more deep than any experience gained in years
+of civil life; none will ever regret having seen that sunrise on the
+plain, though all regretted the cause of their wakefulness this morning.</p>
+
+<p>Of course The Chaperon was up and clothed (he always seemed to be) and
+ready to get basins of water, looking-glasses, shaving materials and all
+luxuries for the others. The ladies were heard to enquire why he did not
+bring them early tea and hot water, but, on the whole, he combined the
+duties of valet and maid fairly efficiently.</p>
+
+<p>Rumour has it that The Chaperon had given instructions that he was to be
+called by the guard an hour before dawn, so, in the dark, he was
+awakened by hoarse whispers of his name and gentle shakings. After he
+arose it occurred <a name="Page_250"></a>to him that it felt more like the middle of the night
+than the morning, and he enquired of the peon what time it was, the
+answer coming in soft Spanish, &quot;Can't say, the cocks have not crowed
+yet!!!&quot; On investigation The Chaperon found it was scarcely 4 a.m., so
+spent the remaining two hours sitting round the camp fire with the
+peons, alternately dozing and sucking mat&eacute;. We believe he heard some
+expert opinions on the subject of the &quot;roncadors&quot; of the camp during his
+vigil. At any rate he had full opportunity for proving the reality of
+Ruskin's words, &quot;There is no solemnity so deep to a right-thinking
+creature as that of dawn.&quot; At the same time he was heard to murmur
+something to the effect that he would prefer a little less of the &quot;deep
+solemnity&quot; and a little more of &quot;deep slumber&quot; another morning.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely were the toilets, and the packing of personal luggage,
+accomplished, before a request was made that the mosquito nets and beds
+might be removed for loading, and, as we emerged from the various tents,
+the breakfast-table greeted us ready laden with tea (from the kettle),
+sardines, jam, peons' biscuits, etc. True, the only milk procurable was
+some condensed milk, which had &quot;gone solid,&quot; there were not enough
+knives to go round, and a few other irregularities, but no little items
+of that sort ever disturbed the temper of The Tacuruers; they simply
+remarked with the other &quot;Autocrat of the Breakfast Table,&quot; &quot;Difficulties
+are Nature's challenges to you,&quot; and used one spoon for all their cups,
+tore off lumps of bread with their fingers (when they could get hold of
+a loaf), and used the same plate and knife for jam and sardines alike,
+and enjoyed their early meal.</p>
+
+<a name="Rich_black_alluvial_Soil"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image32.png" width="458" height="412" alt="&quot;Rich black alluvial Soil.&quot;" title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>&quot;Rich black alluvial Soil.&quot;</h4>
+
+<p>There was one subject that did cause sore feeling, and that was
+mosquitoes. We had thought we knew all about them, we were proud with
+the conceit of nets, ammonia, <a name="Page_251"></a>and veils, but our pride had a fall.
+Comparatively speaking, we had only known mosquitoes theoretically
+before (though that knowledge was bad enough); last night we learnt of
+them practically, none of us had thought of <i>tucking in</i> our nets, and
+mosquitoes seemed to swarm up under each net before we had been in bed
+for half an hour. Little peace did anyone get through those long night
+hours, and, though a voice came from one of the tents about 2 a.m.,
+remarking clearly above the intermittent snores, &quot;Oh! how lovely,&quot; few
+echoed the sentiment, and the speaker assured us this morning that she
+was only dreaming, and that her words did not refer to insects of any
+kind, neither were they made in connection with the upheaval caused by
+&quot;Monte&quot; at one period of the night. He had taken up his quarters at one
+end of the ladies' tent, but was disturbed from his beauty sleep by the
+sudden barking of a dog outside the other end of the tent. This, of
+course, must be seen to; it was his duty, so, leaping up, he rushed
+through the tent, lifting up each one of the low beds, and their
+occupants, as he passed under them on his way to quell the outside
+noise. The ladies forbore to scream, though they thought of earthquakes,
+but settled down again to their occupation of trying to kill mosquitoes,
+quietly, in the dark, and to snatch moments of slumber occasionally.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast, Our Guest was rather unkindly &quot;put on&quot; by The
+Instigator to dig holes, to ascertain how deep the rich, black, alluvial
+soil reached; the ladies energetically washed up the breakfast things,
+which occupation resulted in The Kid once more, and this time finally,
+being given notice to leave, without a character, owing to general
+incompetence, impertinence, and lack of ability to wash out tea-cloths.</p>
+
+<p>By 7 a.m. the coaches and carts were ready, horses rounded up, the
+&quot;Primera Vista&quot; camp was struck, and <a name="Page_252"></a>the march onward recommenced. But
+not before The Chaperon had pointed out a terror that &quot;might have been.&quot;
+After breakfast he approached us with a stick held at arm's length, on
+which hung a dead, slimy-looking, grey snake, about 4 feet long. He
+explained that this reptile had crawled over the neck of one of the
+peons as he lay on the grass last night. This had happened before we
+went to bed, and we felt grateful to The Chaperon for having saved us
+from another horror last night by keeping the fact, and snake, to
+himself until we were leaving that camp.</p>
+
+<p>The first part of our drive to-day was a new experience; we had passed
+over a few ant-hills before on our journey, but now we came to a land
+where it was difficult, if not impossible, to dodge them; they literally
+covered the ground, and the South American ant-hill is a power to be
+reckoned with. It is not the yielding mass composed of soft earth and
+other heterogeneous materials as found in England, which can be
+demolished with a kick, should anyone have sufficient temerity to lay
+himself open to the attacks of the inmates by thus disturbing them; but
+the homes of the black ant, and the Amazon ant, in Argentina are quite a
+different affair. They are, usually, solid, hard masses of earth from
+three to four feet high, very wide at the base, and covered entirely
+with coarse grass. They present an unyielding obstacle to any vehicle,
+and the wheels of even a heavily laden cart make no impression on them,
+but they are not unlikely to cause the overturning of that cart, and
+even traction engines suffer from the sudden drop caused by these
+gigantic sugar-loaves. Therefore it will be easily realized that the
+innumerable ant-hills through, and over which, we drove, were no
+inconsiderable menace to the safety of the party, and it was only due to
+the great care and skill of our drivers in threading their way amongst
+these obstacles that the <a name="Page_253"></a>inmates of the coaches were not upset time
+after time. As it was, no accident of the slightest description
+occurred&mdash;only a few bumps and jolts as we ascended or descended one of
+the ant-hills, which are so difficult to discern in open camp, where the
+whole land is covered alike with long grass. The worst part of our
+travelling did not last more than three or four hours; then we came to
+smoother country, fewer ant-hills, and occasional small lagunas, the
+land growing slightly undulating, though still bare of trees, and, after
+another three hours' driving, during which we had many changes of horses
+and several &quot;helps&quot; from the guides over extra bad pieces of travelling,
+we could see in the distance the position of the Lake Palmar and the
+tops of the palms which grow on the farther shore.</p>
+
+<p>It was during this part of our day's journey that the peons made two
+captures of live animals in an armadillo and a nutria. These men have
+extraordinary good and far sight, and observe any movement in the grass,
+yards ahead of them. They at once killed both animals, for they are
+exceedingly fond of armadillo flesh, and cook the animal in its skin.</p>
+
+<p>It was decided that horses and drivers alike would require a rest when
+we reached the shores of the lake, and, after our cocheros had made
+futile attempts to cut figures of 8 with their respective four and
+two-in-hands on the invitingly firm, yellow sands which surround Lake
+Palmar, all dismounted, horses were taken out, and, while lunch was
+being prepared, the party wandered on the shores of the lake trying to
+find remnants of extinct monsters, fossilised palms, and other
+improbable things. The Instigator rushed up and down picking leaves to
+bits, collecting sand and examining it under the microscope (which is,
+as yet, his), tasting the water of the lake, and generally trying to
+find a way of teaching Nature how to <a name="Page_254"></a>improve on her own handiwork. It
+really seems a pity She does not engage him as her expert consulting
+engineer. My Lady and The Saint did discover a boar-hound's tooth on the
+sands, and two teeth of a nutria, very pretty in their long, gentle
+curve, white at the root and gradually deepening to a reddish-brown at
+the end; but both these finds were absolutely valueless, and, though
+there was talk of having the teeth set as brooches, etc., connoisseurs,
+such as The Wild Man, knew well that the &quot;finds&quot; would be dissolved to
+dust long before they could reach the civilisation of a jeweller's shop.</p>
+
+<p>The tiny banks which slope down from the camp to meet the wide
+stretching sands of the lake are covered with scrub and low trees of the
+acacia type, and, on one of these low trees, eked out with camp stools,
+the party, wearied with their search for curios, settled down to await
+their mid-day meal. It was gently broken to us that the sheep had at
+last been sacrificed, and would shortly appear before us in a different
+guise. The slaughter must have been most humane, for no one of us had
+heard the slightest cry or sound of distress, and now the flesh was
+being cooked. The peons would always prefer to cook all meat in the
+hide, if they were allowed to do so, and it is only with constant
+watching that they are prevented from thus wasting the valuable skins of
+animals. They are enormous meat eaters, which is scarcely to be wondered
+at, considering how scarce green food is. They live on meat, mat&eacute;, and
+hard biscuits.</p>
+
+<p>The bright idea occurred to someone that a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i> would be
+acceptable, considering how long ago we had had our meagre early morning
+meal, so the only available article, a tinned Dutch cheese, was
+attacked; and none but those who have tried, under similar
+circumstances, one of the soft Dutch cheeses which one obtains in the
+Argentine, <a name="Page_255"></a>would be able to understand how very good it can be. As it
+was handed round (to everyone on the same knife), hunger, open-air, and
+the exercise of the ant-hills caused it to be appreciated more than
+usual, even beyond its deserts, if possible.</p>
+
+<p>As the party were thus collected (mostly with their legs tucked away to
+prevent the climbing operations of the black ants with which the ground
+was swarming), The Instigator took this opportunity to try to rid
+himself of some of the responsibility of the trip by calling a meeting
+(the whole nine were already there), and putting it to the vote as to
+whether The Kid, now that she had lost her companions the sheep, should
+be turned adrift to find her way back again as best she could, drowned
+in the lake, or allowed to accompany the party for the rest of the
+journey. A wild gleam of joy lit the eyes of everyone who knew anything
+of her at this prospect of getting rid of the trial. Both the ladies,
+and everyone who had known her for longer than the week, voted, hands
+and feet, for her extinction, but four of the men were foolishly too
+polite to express their real wishes. So she herself was left with the
+casting vote, and chose to go on! Thus The Instigator's well-thought
+plan to remove an incubus was frustrated. He was so disgusted with his
+failure in a laudable object that, directly after &quot;lunch&quot; (which meant
+each one cutting off from the half-sheep, that was handed round, the
+piece he or she preferred), he went off with his microscope trying to
+find other interests, and in a few minutes was growing unduly excited
+over a shrub on which he discovered some most unusual excrescences.
+These shapeless masses of earth, apparently growing on the shrub, he was
+examining from all points with the naked eye before submitting them to
+microscopic investigation, and it was only when Our Guest came up and
+removed some of the earth from one of the excrescences that The<a name="Page_256"></a>
+Instigator, who was watching intently, noted that the mass resolved
+itself into the shape of one of The Saint's shoes, which had been hung
+up on the shrub to dry after her lake-searching expedition. Foiled
+again, The Instigator collected The Delineator and My Lady, and started
+to walk to the northern end of the lake, where The Jehu could pick them
+up, when the washing, packing and harnessing allowed of an onward move.
+We are told that for once The Kid, perhaps stimulated by her recent
+narrow escape from total extinction, really did do some work here. It is
+true we only have her word, an indistinct murmur from The Chaperon, and
+some clean plates to vouch for the statement, as all the other members
+of the party remaining were lying in more or less graceful slumberous
+attitudes in carts, under trees, or anywhere else, enjoying forty winks.
+Some excellent photos were obtained of the sleeping beauties as they lay
+there resting, but their modesty caused them to beg for forbearance in
+the publication of any of the pictures thus obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Before the actual start was made, The Jehu, Our Guest, The Chaperon, and
+The Wild Man tried their hands at some revolver-shooting. Naturally, the
+drivers, after their long hours with the reins, could not do themselves
+justice with the more dangerous weapons, but, combined with Our Guest
+and The Wild Man, they left a fair show of broken bottles in the lake,
+rather to the surprise of the lookers-on.</p>
+
+<p>Neither of our cocheros could resist the further opportunity of figures
+of eight as we drove off on the hard sand, but we believe they were not
+encouraged in these exhibitions by their passengers, and, skirting the
+North part of the lake they came to a little ranch where they had
+arranged to meet the three walkers, who had discovered divers
+interesting specimens of animal, vegetable and mineral kinds during
+their very pleasant stroll round the lake. Here they were <a name="Page_257"></a>sitting at
+the ranch awaiting the arrival of the coaches, and they introduced the
+newcomers to a marvellous collection of tame birds with whom they had
+made acquaintance. The owners of the ranch had six or seven birds of
+different kinds, which flew about and pitched on anyone's shoulder or
+hand, or on the carriages, and were most friendly; in fact, one big bird
+was so willing to become attached to us that we could scarcely persuade
+it to leave the coach when we were ready to drive on.</p>
+
+<p>We allowed those who had driven to the spot a few moments in which to
+dismount and greet the neat little mistress of the ranch, with whom we
+had already made friends, and her pretty children. The roofing of this
+little ranch and its out-houses was most interesting. It was carried out
+entirely with trunks of palm trees. These, split in half and cleared of
+all sap, made very effective roofing, placed alternately in concave and
+convex form, so that the ridges of the two lengths of trunk placed bark
+upward rest in the hollow of the intervening trunk. Naturally, all rain
+water drains off the convex half into the concave trunk and flows down
+these gullies into the water course formed of another hollowed palm
+trunk running along the lower edge of the roof. A more suitable and
+rainproof roof could scarcely be designed. The mistress of the house was
+most anxious to entertain us to tea, but, having picked up our guide
+from Vera, who it was arranged should meet us here with letters, we
+could not spare time for further delay, and once more started off with
+the guide ahead of us.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the ranch we turned to the eastward, and before long
+passed over the Calchaqui river (which is more generally known as the
+Golondrino here). This was not a difficult matter.</p>
+
+<p>After crossing the Calchaqui we enter quite a new country, the land is
+perceptibly higher, the grasses are finer <a name="Page_258"></a>and trees begin to appear.
+First we came to the tall palm trees on the edge of the forest, and very
+imposing they were, then small montes gave place to the regular woods
+which stretch North on this side of the river, and trees abound. The
+scenery was altogether more tropical. Occasional flocks of bright pink
+flamingoes made a welcome touch of colour as they stood on the edge of
+some little laguna, or, disturbed by the unusual approach of coaches,
+flew off in the distance. Hares were to be seen now and then, and
+sometimes even one of the small wild deer of the forest was noticed
+before it rushed off to the shelter of the trees.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately, about this time, the sun, which had been so friendly all
+day, became overcast with clouds, and the sky assumed a threatening
+appearance; but, notwithstanding the wise head-shakings of those who
+know the country (The Delineator and The Jehu in particular), the party
+refused to be downhearted, and asserted that rain was the most unlikely
+event, and, in any case, they intended to enjoy their present drive
+through scenery which was not unlike that which would be found in an
+English park; the great expanses were gone, and in their place we had
+slightly undulating stretches of grass bordered with trees of all kinds.
+The whole aspect of the land had changed and the country here was
+extremely pretty, though no distant views could be obtained owing to the
+thick growth of the trees and the impossibility of finding any but the
+slightest rising ground.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived, before long, at a little ranch, in the neighbourhood of
+which we were to encamp for the night. The spot was very different to
+our camp of last night, for here we were surrounded with trees, and near
+by a flock of sheep, belonging to the ranch, were feeding. Before the
+heavier carts could arrive, and the work of tent-erecting commence,
+there was plenty of time for a cup of tea, with the aid of My Lady's
+useful basket; but all the water that could <a name="Page_259"></a>be obtained from the
+so-called &quot;well&quot; at the ranch was half mud, and, though this was used
+with great success, we could only secure two mouthfuls of tea from each
+cup, as the rest of the contents was composed of mud. We believe The Kid
+was rather annoyed about this, and felt distinctly aggrieved, but she
+did not dare to give vent to her feelings, and the matter did not worry
+those who were looking forward to &quot;cocktails&quot; before dinner, and well
+they deserved those &quot;cocktails,&quot; for by the time the carts arrived the
+atmosphere had become intensely close; a slight drizzle seemed only to
+add to the damp heat, and the work of unloading and erecting tents, and
+beds, and unpacking in that warm, steaming air, which was intensified
+under the coverings, was no light one; but here, again, everyone
+performed their quota, whether large or small, for the general good.
+Before long the tents were up. Three were erected to-night, as, owing to
+the rain, we should be obliged to have food under canvas. The Instigator
+caused great admiration by cunningly using trees as supports in the
+erection of the tents under his supervision, and thus hurrying matters
+on. Everything was finished, beds made, luggage under cover, the table
+laid ready in the tent, and lamps lit and suspended before the short
+twilight had given place to complete darkness, and The Saint once more
+earned the blessings and gratitude of all by thoughtfully insisting on a
+general &quot;washing of faces.&quot; As she marshalled the party in front of her,
+and attacked each one with sponge and towel, we were irresistibly
+reminded of a board school; but that sponge of toilet vinegar, after the
+damp heat and all the work, was one of the most refreshing things
+imaginable, and everyone felt cleaner and more cheerful after this
+ablution, and ready to attack the poor little armadillo, which had been
+cooked; this meat tastes very much like sucking pig. The rain, which was
+coming down heavily by this time, was <a name="Page_260"></a>powerless to damp the spirits of
+the party as they sat down to dinner. They were only troubled because
+they feared this would be their last evening meal in camp, and that
+Civilisation might again claim them for her own to-morrow, for a great
+deal of the enjoyment of this trip has been due, undoubtedly, to its
+incomparable freedom. So they spent the time in eating, and holding a
+mutual admiration society meeting. Each decided (between the mouthfuls
+of mutton and armadillo) that every other member of the party was just
+the nicest person that he or she had ever met, and, as there was no one
+there to contradict the obviously erroneous statements, all were
+satisfied and content, and drank each other's healths with enthusiasm,
+and&mdash;whatever else was left. Someone even tried to murmur something
+kindly about The Kid. Above all, the Instigator was eulogised, and
+rightly, too, for his genial influence helped everything to go well; no
+one could have grumbled at the little inconveniences which they had had
+to put up with at times, while The Instigator was so cheerful and
+anxious for others' comfort and careless of his own through all. His
+interest in, and enthusiasm for, his Company know no bounds. Get him to
+hold forth, and he will tell you how, in the early days of the Company,
+matters were quite different from what they are to-day. The shares stood
+then at five shillings each, and the bankers refused to allow an
+overdraft of &pound;2,000, and when it became absolutely necessary to have
+money he actually made advances out of his own pocket to supply the
+requisite funds.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly afterwards matters began to improve, and when he visited the
+property in 1900 he was able to send this reassuring message to the
+General Meeting:&mdash;&quot;I honestly believe the worst is past, and that in
+future we shall progress.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>He always appraises the work of others whether the result of their
+operations is successful or not, and he will <a name="Page_261"></a>appreciate the mental and
+manual exertions expended on the undertaking by the employees of the
+Company at their true worth. All he asks of his colleagues and
+subordinates is that each one shall &quot;play the game&quot; in every sense of
+the word to the best of his ability. He never paints the prospects of a
+beginner in rosy hues; in fact, he has been known to speak of the
+hardships and privations which a young man must be prepared to go
+through on first joining the Company as being comparable to &quot;the life of
+a dog.&quot; To-day the men who have been through those first years of
+necessary self-denial and hard work are grateful for the training they
+have received and anxious to work their best for the Company.</p>
+
+<p>For a long while the party sat talking of their experiences on this
+trip, and of the Company and its prospects. The travelling over this
+comparatively unknown land had been a revelation to most; the dormant
+wealth lying in the camp must be enormous, but men, money, and brains
+are needed to exploit it. Unfortunately, it is still difficult to get
+colonists for these more northern districts, but when the railway which
+is contemplated becomes an accomplished fact, as it assuredly must,
+people will be attracted further north, colonisation will be easier, the
+land will yield its hundredfold, and some one will, in time, have
+performed the great deed of &quot;making two blades of grass grow where only
+one grew before.&quot; It may seem to those accustomed to the narrower life
+of towns, a lonely, empty life to spend one's years and energies
+improving these wild lands; but assuredly the man who labours here with
+the best that is in him, not only earns a great reward for himself in
+the gradual development and growth of that land, but has deserved well
+of mankind in general, and will, some day, receive his &quot;Well done,&quot; than
+which there is no higher praise, as surely as those whose lives have
+been spent in the more public fields of civilisation or in military
+prowess.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Page_262"></a>For some, obscure reason it is generally supposed that the man who
+spends his life in agricultural pursuits is bound to have his mental
+abilities dulled by the continuous round of duties connected with the
+land and the care of animals. The origin of this idea is difficult to
+imagine, unless it be that agriculture is the oldest and most necessary
+pursuit of mankind; but surely the man who has to keep a perpetual watch
+on wind, weather and workers, animal and vegetable kingdom and natural
+phenomena, and be ready to anticipate any change, besides being
+thoroughly in touch with all the latest improvements, mechanical and
+material, in reference to his calling, and conversant with the ruling
+prices in the best markets, cannot be held to be a man whose perceptions
+are becoming blunted by his business. It is certainly true that there
+are many who do &quot;let things go,&quot; but that class is not confined to
+agriculturists alone, and in agriculture, as in all other callings,
+those who &quot;let things slide&quot; very shortly find that most things have
+slid away from them irrevocably. Certainly the Argentine is no place for
+the man disinclined for exertion. She holds rewards, and great rewards;
+but only for the resolute who are prepared to lead a strenuous and
+self-denying life of labour, exposure and fatigue, and who come to her
+determined to win the best from her rich lands, and to take every
+opportunity as it comes in their way for improving their knowledge.</p>
+
+<p>Plans were made for to-morrow's journey; there was talk, if the day was
+fine and the way possible, of going first south-east to the tannin
+factory at La Gallareta, then due north to Las Gamas, but it was feared
+that the recent heavy rains in this district would have made the
+undertaking of the two journeys on one day inadvisable, and the Indian
+guide persuaded the &quot;leaders&quot; that it would be wiser to go straight to
+Las Gamas to-morrow and <a name="Page_263"></a>leave the visit to the factory for Monday. This
+would give Tuesday for Santa Lucia and Wednesday for Vera. Sarnosa and
+Olmos could be visited from one or the other of these two estancias,
+and, leaving Vera on Friday afternoon, San Cristobal would be reached on
+Saturday evening.</p>
+
+<p>As we dispersed in the rain to our various tents, a slight thunder and
+lightning storm commenced, but, notwithstanding this, we were happy in
+the assurance that our troubles from mosquitoes were likely to be less
+virulent to-night, owing to our proximity to the sheepfold of the ranch.
+Therefore, as good disciples of the immortal Pepys, we quote&mdash;and with
+appropriate action&mdash;&quot;So to bed.&quot;</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ADVERTISEMENT.</h4>
+
+<p>OUT OF WORK.&mdash;Advertiser wants situation as general help; might be
+useful in tea-taster's office; hard work not so much an object as high
+wages and comfortable living. Advertiser could take immediate situation.
+No references.&mdash;T.K., <i>Second Coach</i>.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h4>ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.</h4>
+
+<p>T.C. writes in answer to the arithmetical problem of yesterday's date,
+&quot;Yes, if A starts with 87 horses, loses 2, and finds 1, he does end the
+journey with 110, for he collects 24 more at the last estancia. Only
+experts can do this; hence your correspondent's failure to find a
+solution.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>LOST.&mdash;One watch and chain (said to be gold), trinkets attached
+containing several locks of hair and portraits of ten or twelve
+gentlemen. If finder would return portraits and hair, owner would be
+obliged.&mdash;T.K.</p><a name="Page_264"></a>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 8.</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Saturday, April 2nd, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+<h5>THE CIRCULATION OF &quot;THE TACURU&quot; WENT UP LITERALLY BY LEAPS AND BOUNDS
+YESTERDAY MORNING, FAR BEYOND THE EXPECTATIONS EVEN OF THE EDITOR.</h5>
+
+
+<p>The morning dawned damp and dreary; rain had fallen steadily all night
+long, and still continues. Neither The Chaperon nor anyone else had an
+opportunity for seeing &quot;the golden exhalations of dawn&quot; this morning.
+To-day's &quot;exhalations&quot; were chiefly those of moisture, and the only gold
+we saw was supplied by the light of the paraffin lamps which The
+Chaperon, always on the look out to anticipate our wishes, provided for
+us to see our way to wash. The water for ablutions was obtained from the
+mud-hole which did duty for a well at the ranch, and its appearance was
+somewhat disconcerting. However, with skill, one could scoop up a little
+of the surface of the water for a splash without disturbing the thick
+stratum of mud at the bottom of the basin; things might have been worse,
+and everyone felt that on such a damp day washing at all was merely an
+&aelig;sthetic waste of energy. By the time dressing was accomplished it was
+sufficiently light for the lamps to be dispensed with, and we assembled
+for breakfast in a dull-grey atmosphere. Hot tea, even though half mud,
+was very good. We believe that the leaf of a certain cactus has the
+power of clearing water absolutely; if it is dropped in a vessel of
+water, it and the mud settle at the bottom, leaving the water quite
+clear; but though several varieties of cacti were tried this morning,
+none were successful; apparently the special kind did not grow around
+our camp.</p><a name="Page_265"></a>
+
+<a name="Water_Knee_deep"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image33.png" width="458" height="429" alt="Water Knee-deep." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>Water Knee-deep.</h4>
+
+<p>No one seemed much disheartened by the rain; even the peons, though
+already wet through in their scanty garments, were cheerfully smiling as
+usual, with no thought of grumbling. Monte, too, was calmly ready to
+accompany us, despite the bad weather.</p>
+
+<p>Owing either to the skilful manner of tucking in the nets adopted last
+night, or to the neighbourhood of the sheepfold, mosquitoes had not
+troubled us nearly so much as on the previous night; only the continual
+flashes of lightning and the soft rumblings of thunder during the steady
+downpour had been able to disturb our deep slumbers.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as possible the tents were taken down, packing accomplished, and
+a start made. Fortunately the ant-hills were considerably fewer in
+number to-day, but the ground was ankle deep in water everywhere, and
+fallen tree trunks hidden under the, in some places, really deep water,
+formed a considerable danger in our path. However, again owing to the
+skill of our drivers, no accident occurred all through that long drive
+in unceasing rain, which shrouded all but the most immediate view. Of
+course, constant changes of horses were necessary, as, for eight hours
+we drove through water, above and below, to our destination. The
+accomplishment of that drive of his four-in-hand from the absolutely
+unsheltered position on the box was no small feat on the part of The
+Jehu; we all felt an even deeper admiration for his pluck and endurance
+than before, as he steadily pursued his way on that terrible day, when
+his whole body and especially his hands must have been numbed through
+and through with the cold and wet. The Chaperon, too, had an arduous
+day, though his work was not so strenuous as that of The Jehu. At one
+spot, when under trees we made a change of horses, The Chaperon was seen
+to be wading through water, knee deep, as he handed round the only
+refreshments available&mdash;ginger-bread, biscuits, beer and gin&mdash;<a name="Page_266"></a>to guests
+and peons alike, all drinking gratefully from the same small measure.
+That drive is something to be remembered; it was executed under the most
+trying circumstances with not a single complaint or grumble from anyone,
+but an increased thankfulness on the part of the passengers that they
+were in such good hands during the trip. The land through which we drove
+to-day is covered with trees of various kinds; large forests exist on
+the eastern side of the Calchaqui, bordering the river for its entire
+length; the trees of these forests are chiefly Algarrobo the wood of
+which is not unlike our walnut in appearance, but extremely hard; in
+days to come this timber will be used in great quantities for making
+parquet flooring. It seems almost incredible that the city of Buenos
+Aires should import millions of square metres of ready-made parquet
+flooring when the Argentine produces magnificent timber of far more
+suitable and better wearing quality for the purpose than any used in
+imported parquet. As we have journeyed eastward, trees have become much
+more numerous, and splendid timber is to be seen on every side. Most
+numerous amongst the trees is the Quebracho Colorado, which supplies one
+of the hardest timbers the world produces. The trees have a peculiar
+appearance, for their leaves are quite small and the trunks have a rough
+bark from which often hangs moss-like lichen, of which, by the way,
+cattle are very fond. The photo on the opposite page gives a general
+idea of a tree's appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The wood, which is light in colour when first cut, becomes dark red upon
+being exposed to light and weather, and it is intensely hard.</p>
+
+<a name="Quebracho_Colorado_Tree"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image34.png" width="457" height="537" alt="Quebracho Colorado Tree." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Quebracho Colorado Tree.</h4>
+
+<p>The word &quot;quebracho&quot; (pronounced KAYBRATSHO) signifies axe-breaking, and
+even modern tools do not retain their edge long when working on this
+wood.</p><a name="Page_267"></a>
+
+<p>The wonderful durability of the wood renders it a perfect material for
+railway sleepers, and this has been appreciated by the Government of
+Argentina to such an extent that they have decreed that the laying of
+new railways is to be upon sleepers made of the hard woods of the
+Country.</p>
+
+<a name="Sleepers_awaiting_Transport_at_Vera"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image35.png" width="455" height="486" alt="Sleepers awaiting Transport at Vera." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Sleepers awaiting Transport at Vera.</h4>
+
+<p>The forests of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company have produced in the last
+twelve years over a million Quebracho Colorado sleepers.</p>
+
+<p>One drawback to the wood is that it has the peculiarity of splitting
+around the heart of the tree. This is caused by the accumulation of
+resin at certain periods, and is probably connected in some way with the
+excessive moisture or dryness of a particular year's growth.</p>
+
+<p>The tree is often attacked by a boring grub, which enters by making a
+very small pin prick opening, and during its existence in the tree grows
+and bores an ever enlarging hole until often it becomes half an inch in
+diameter. It would seem almost incredible that a grub could live either
+on the resins in the tree or be able to bore through what is one of the
+hardest woods in the world.</p>
+
+<p>Of recent years this timber has also been put to another use&mdash;that of
+producing tan. When used for this purpose, the tree was cut down, its
+outer sapwood removed, and then taken to the river to be finally shipped
+to the United States of America or to Germany.</p>
+
+<p>It was soon found that the railway and shipping freight charges absorbed
+a considerable amount of the profits to be obtained in making this
+tannin extract abroad, and, therefore, extract factories were erected in
+Argentina. The process of obtaining the extract is very simple; the logs
+are first put through a machine which reduces them to chips, the chips
+are then boiled in water till all soluble matter is extracted from them,
+and the solution obtained is concentrated down to <a name="Page_268"></a>the consistency of
+pitch; in this form, after being dried, it is exported, and is used by
+tanners the world over. The great necessity and essence of success, in
+the present way of working the business, is good water and plenty of it.</p>
+
+<p>We do not know who first noticed the tannin material oozing out of these
+trees, but no doubt attention was called to the fact by pools in the
+neighbourhood of the trees being often red in colour. Undoubtedly the
+Germans first took this business up on a large scale, and to-day they
+hold an enormous quantity of forest lands.</p>
+
+<p>Hitherto the extract has been brought on to the market in a solid state
+very much after the style of Burma cutch. The Santa F&eacute; Land Company have
+recently produced the material in a fine powdered state, absolutely
+pure, and containing a great deal less moisture than any other form of
+extract on the market, and they are about to erect a factory to work
+this process in connection with their saw mills at Vera. This new
+process requires very little water as compared with the old method, and
+can be adopted, in huge areas hitherto unsuitable for the industry.</p>
+
+<p>About mid-day we approached a plaza, or wood deposit, of the La
+Gallareta Factory, situated on the Company's Lands. Rain had been
+falling in torrents for days past, and the tracks (called by courtesy
+&quot;roads&quot;) had one and all become deep crevasses of soft mud, loads of
+timber had been left here and there in the wood, just wherever the cart
+conveying it had stuck, and in many places the water was so deep that
+not a vestige of these obstacles could be seen. Our coaches had to be
+driven under (or perhaps we should say &quot;over&quot;) such circumstances as
+these for about three miles, and this part of our journey was absolutely
+dangerous; the greatest credit is due to the drivers and those in charge
+of the party that no serious accident occurred, for, about mid-day, the
+way was <a name="Page_269"></a>truly terrible, and one never knew when a tree trunk, small or
+large, lying hidden under the water, would cause a terrific jolt to the
+cart, despite the utmost efforts on the part of our cocheros. However,
+we passed from the extreme danger zone into the comparatively smooth
+waters of the flooded lands. So we drove on, our drivers and guides
+becoming more and more chilled with the rain and cold, but always
+cheerful, till at last wire fencing and other signs of civilisation
+marked our approach to the precincts of Las Gamas. This was indeed a
+welcome sight to the party, for all were beginning to feel the need of
+food and shelter, and though the &quot;passengers&quot; in the coaches were
+comparatively dry, despite the continual downpour, the drivers were wet
+through long ago and the peons had not been dry since dawn.</p>
+
+<a name="Tannin_Extract_Factory"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image36.png" width="451" height="517" alt="Tannin Extract Factory." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Tannin Extract Factory.</h4>
+
+<p>No one was sorry when &quot;The Jehu,&quot; to shorten the drive, ordered some of
+the wire fencing to be dropped so that we might proceed in a straight
+line to the house instead of making the considerable detour to the gate.
+It was past three o'clock when, after a side-slip or two, and consequent
+meeting with gate-posts, we drew up in front of the estancia house and
+noticed on the outbuildings a damp flag trying to flap a weary &quot;welcome&quot;
+to the party of Tacuruers. The first thing was to get The Jehu from his
+driving seat and into a warm bath, and the same treatment was meted out
+to The Chaperon, and hot whisky and water for all! Our host and hostess
+gave us such a genial welcome and the big room looked so dry and
+inviting, with a wood fire crackling in the grate, that our troubles,
+which had, during the long hours of to-day's tedious drive, assumed
+really serious proportions, were soon forgotten as we sat down, in an
+incredibly short time, to a hearty meal of roast turkey and mince pies!
+We almost fell to wishing each other a Happy Christmas, and
+instinctively wondered <a name="Page_270"></a>if roast chestnuts would form part of the
+afternoon's programme. Unfortunately, chestnuts of an allegorical kind
+<i>did</i> enter into the proceedings. Meanwhile, the rain continued its
+unceasing downpour. It was some time before the baggage waggons arrived
+on the scene, and, needless to say, they and their contents were very
+damp. But the peons soon had the goods unpacked, and ere long were happy
+and dry in the big galpon round a roaring fire, which they must have
+badly needed. Their behaviour all through this terrible day, sometimes
+under most trying circumstances, had been splendid, and it says a good
+deal for master as well as for man that not once was a sound of
+discontent heard. In fact, the men often suggested themselves little
+things in which they thought they might help the caretakers of the
+party. It was a relief to us all to know that the work of those peons
+had ended for the day with the caring for the horses and unpacking of
+the goods.</p>
+
+<p>Monte still accompanied us, but here he had to be kept under strict
+surveillance, for dogs were numerous on the premises, and several of
+them were not of the kind who brook any encroachment, however harmless,
+on their preserves; so poor Monte was perforce shut up, away from the
+house, where Bear and his companions could not take exception to the
+presence of an interloper. The late afternoon and evening were chiefly
+spent in having warm baths, which were most grateful after the, of
+necessity, somewhat sketchy ablutions of the past three days. Now that
+the safe arrival of the luggage was an accomplished fact, and the
+travellers clothed and fed, there seemed little reason for late hours,
+and it was not long after dinner when the general dispersal took place.
+We only waited to hear a few selections of songs on the beautiful
+gramophone which our host had received a few months ago as a Christmas
+greeting from England. It must be difficult for those at <a name="Page_271"></a>home to
+realise what an immense amount of pleasure a good gramophone can give to
+the dwellers in the far camp lands. This instrument was in constant
+request, and both the machine and records were extraordinarily good.
+Still, even this great attraction did not tempt the party to sit up
+late; everyone was tired and exhausted, and our cocheros, more
+especially the Jehu, must have been worn out with their exertions of the
+day. We can only hope they will suffer no after ill effects from their
+arduous task and severe drenchings.</p>
+
+<a name="Some_of_the_Horses"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image37.png" width="464" height="464" alt="Some of the Horses." title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>Some of the Horses.</h4>
+
+<p>Our horses have been simply wonderful during this trip. We have driven,
+ridden, and brought along nearly 100 animals for 150 miles, and have not
+lost one upon the journey. This speaks volumes for the care and training
+bestowed upon the animals at the head estancia, and we are inclined to
+think that few other places could supply as many animals to do such
+trying work. The fitness of our animals is owing entirely to the
+continual attention and care they receive daily at the estancia.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p><i>We are sorry to be obliged to hold over all correspondence,
+advertisements, etc., to-day, as, doubtless owing to the floods, no
+communications had reached us up to the time of going to press. We hope
+all correspondents will accept our sincere apologies for the unavoidable
+delay in dealing with letters and orders; all despatches shall receive
+our earnest attention as soon as they come to hand.</i></p><a name="Page_272"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h3>&quot;THE TACURU.&quot;</h3>
+
+<h5>No. 9</h5>
+
+<h5><i>Sunday, April 3rd, 1910.</i></h5>
+
+
+<p>Dawn showed us no respite of the drenching rain; the paths, the garden,
+and the camps were all flooded with the continuous rain of yesterday and
+last night, and still it poured. After disposing of a more substantial
+breakfast than had fallen to the lot of the travellers for some days,
+there seemed little to do save listen to the dulcet strains of the
+gramophone, which proved a welcome diversion. A considerable disturbance
+was caused by a dog fight under the table round which we were sitting;
+whether intentional or not on the part of the animals, the rout of the
+ladies was complete, and the dogs were only separated by the calm
+procedure of some of the men who held them under the water taps until
+their ardour was cooled. Monte was out of all this trouble, for he had
+been consigned to the security of the galpon to avoid trouble concerning
+rights of way which would assuredly have arisen between himself and Bear
+(the big bulldog of the estancia) had they met. Bear amused the company
+by presenting a truly comical sight, some minutes later, when he decided
+to have a drink after his fight; he walked with majestic mien up to the
+water spout, which jutted out from the house a few feet from the ground,
+and, poking out his heavy under-jaw, collected the flow of water in his
+mouth in a most satisfying way, for a few seconds. Of course, The
+Instigator started off pacing and measuring the room's verandah, etc.,
+in order to devise a scheme for the best improvements for the estancia,
+and before long he and The Delineator had made out a plan which would
+drive any member of the R.I.B.A. to desperation, but caused its authors
+enormous joy. The Jehu and<a name="Page_273"></a> The Chaperon were occupied for some time in
+seeing to the comfort of their men and animals, and trying to dry the
+tents, clothes, etc., by the huge fire in the galpon in which the peons
+were housed for the day. We are told that one Tacuruer tried to employ
+the morning remuneratively by opening a temporary barber's shop on the
+verandah, and advertising &quot;hair-cutting and shaving&quot;; possibly he might
+have built up a successful business in time, but unfortunately for him
+his first customer's beard was too unyielding for the ordinary scissors
+and the customer objected to the way in which the horse clippers were
+used on the hirsute growth of his chin, and talked of his treatment
+afterwards in a way that did not inspire confidence in the other
+might-have-been customers, who were observed to slink away one by one
+from the barber's chair as if it were infected. We regret that a
+well-meant enterprise on the part of one of The Tacuru party met with
+such a poor reception.</p>
+
+<p>A gleam of ceasing rain&mdash;it was not sunshine&mdash;gave courage to some of
+the more energetic members of the party to go forth to inspect the heaps
+of wood about to be made into charcoal in the neighbourhood of the
+estancia, if any could be reached on dry land. For to-morrow the visit
+to the La Gallareta factory will occupy the day, and the Charcoal piles
+are too interesting a sight to be left unvisited now that we are in the
+wood department of the Santa F&eacute; Land Company.</p>
+
+<p>In the northern districts where trees are numerous it is necessary to
+&quot;distroncar&quot; the land before the soil can be brought into condition
+suitable for the plough. In other words all the trees and roots must be
+removed before ploughing operations commence. But the timber so obtained
+is not wasted; the branches and all pieces not big enough to be used for
+sleepers, etc., are cut up into various suitable lengths and piled
+together in such a manner that <a name="Page_274"></a>when finished the heap presents the
+appearance of a huge beehive; the centre of this dome running from the
+apex to the ground is a hollow cylinder; this tube or pipe is filled up
+with the small sticks and twigs from the trees, and when all is in
+readiness the contents of the cylinder are fired from the top, the fire
+slowly burns downwards and sets light to the surrounding logs which in
+their turn smoulder till they become charcoal. But the match is not
+applied until the whole mass of wood has been covered up and plastered
+over with mud, to prevent the entrance of any air. The kiln thus forms
+an enclosed retort, and the wood is carbonised and makes excellent
+charcoal, which eventually finds its way to Buenos Aires and other
+cities, where immense quantities are used for cooking and heating
+purposes. If all goes well, the kiln being well built, and no air
+admitted, some thirty to forty tons of charcoal are produced from one of
+these heaps; not infrequently, however, the crown breaks in; this allows
+the air to enter, the wood is completely burnt, and the labour expended
+on this &quot;horno&quot; is represented by a few cartloads of useless ash. The
+thought of these possible failures was too much for The Instigator; he
+held forth, at length, upon the advisability of bringing a little
+science to bear upon the problem of preventing any waste of the material
+itself or of the by-products. His theory is that to make the best use of
+nature's lavish gifts in the way of wood products, an iron or brick
+still should be erected, on the inside of which the heavy tarry products
+would naturally accumulate, and so find their way to the base of the
+kiln where they could be collected and run out into casks for
+utilisation, whilst the lighter vapours are condensed in the hood of the
+still to be chemically treated later for their highly valuable
+properties, and the charcoal itself would be a more certain production
+from these brick or iron kilns than <a name="Page_275"></a>it is from the present heaps. At
+this point of his lecture the weather became impossible, and when The
+Instigator discovered that he was expatiating to the camp and rain
+alone, he, too, turned to seek the shelter of the estancia house,
+whither his audience had long ago fled. For some time we watched the
+storm as it worked up with intense fury. The lightning as it illuminated
+the whole camp was a wonderful sight, it seemed to flash (and this was
+before the dinner hour) yellow light from the north, red from the south,
+and a bright white light from the east, and was of long continuance. The
+culminating point seemed to come when an appalling crash was heard and
+something appeared to have been struck by lightning. This drove the
+party indoors, though from the time of the crash (we found later that it
+was the telephone which had suffered), the storm abated and only steady
+rain continued. However, nothing more could be done out of doors, and
+everyone was glad of warmth and shelter, while they hoped for a better
+day to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>Songs occupied the evening, and most of the party retired early to bed.</p>
+
+<p>The Editor regrets that up to the time of going to press to-day, the
+advertisements, correspondence, etc., due for yesterday's issue had not
+reached the office; he fears they may have been lost, and requests that
+all orders may be repeated.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<p>The following advertisements of to-day's dating have been sent in:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>HAIR CUTTING AND SHAVING while you wait.&mdash;Lowest prices. Large supply of
+tools, or customers may bring their own instruments if preferred. Good
+style guaranteed. Customers' comfort not so much considered as thorough
+work. Satisfaction certain.&mdash;T.C., THE VERANDAH.</p><a name="Page_276"></a>
+
+<p>WANTED.&mdash;Reliable Barber&mdash;for clipping advertiser's beard weekly, at own
+residence. May be required to travel. Gentleness much appreciated;
+advertiser would give valuable information on any subject in return for
+Barber's services.&mdash;T.I., LAS GAMAS.</p>
+
+<p>WANTED&mdash;By several people; good book on &quot;How not to lose at Bridge.&quot;
+Anyone possessing a copy of this valuable work for sale, please quote
+lowest price to The Editor, <i>Tacuru</i> Office.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<h3>Monday, April 4th, 1910.</h3>
+
+<p>The Editor and Staff of &quot;The Tacuru&quot; announce with great regret the
+unavoidable demise of the journal known and respected by all as &quot;The
+Tacuru.&quot; This valuable and instructive periodical has become a necessity
+to every happy home. The Editor hoped long to continue his beneficent
+task of bringing a daily joy into the lives of all English-speaking and
+reading people; but, alas, just as he bore &quot;his blushing honours thick
+upon him,&quot; there came a flood, an awful flood, and carried away his
+hopes and printing press (we believe some people were drowned, too).
+Therefore we must, perforce, bid our readers<a name="Page_277"></a> &quot;farewell, a long
+farewell.&quot; Though not, we hope, for ever. Printing presses are not
+unique, and some day, in the land of civilisation, we hope to be able to
+make our loss good and bring happiness and information once more to
+countless millions. In case any of our readers would like to erect a
+monument of gratitude to &quot;The Tacuru,&quot; in memory of the enjoyment, or
+otherwise, this paper has brought into their lives, we would mention
+that the printing-press and a few lives were lost on the way to Olmos.
+We are able to publish a photo of extreme interest, depicting the
+counting of the loss after the deluge. With this, and our deepest
+regrets, we must pause, trusting that some day our great work may be
+renewed under similarly happy circumstances, by the same staff, to whom,
+and to all contributors, willing or unwilling, a thousand thanks.</p>
+
+<a name="Awful_Flood"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image38.png" width="457" height="408" alt="&quot;Awful Flood.&quot;" title="" />
+</center>
+
+<h4>&quot;Awful Flood.&quot;</h4>
+
+<a name="On_the_Way_to_Olmos"></a>
+<center>
+<img src="images/image39.png" width="465" height="412" alt="On the Way to Olmos." title="" />
+</center>
+<h4>On the Way to Olmos.</h4>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Argentina From A British Point Of View, by Various
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+Project Gutenberg's Argentina From A British Point Of View, by Various
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Argentina From A British Point Of View
+
+Author: Various
+
+Release Date: December 16, 2004 [EBook #14366]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARGENTINA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Susan Skinner and the PG Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW
+
+AND
+
+NOTES ON ARGENTINE LIFE.
+
+
+
+With Photographs and Diagrams.
+
+
+EDITED BY
+CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.
+
+
+LONDON:
+WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO.,
+CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, E.C
+1910.
+
+
+PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO., CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, LONDON,
+E.C
+
+
+DEDICATED To _all_ THE SHAREHOLDERS OF THE SANTA FE LAND COMPANY,
+LIMITED, _who take a real interest in the Company_.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+In May last I was asked to read, towards the end of the year, a paper on
+Argentina, before the Royal Society of Arts. The task of compiling that
+paper was one of absorbing interest to me; and though I fully realise
+how inadequately I have dealt with so interesting a subject, I venture
+to think that the facts and figures which the paper contains may be of
+interest to some, at any rate, of the Shareholders of the Santa Fe Land
+Company. It is upon this supposition that it is published.
+
+Whilst I was obtaining the latest information for the paper (which was
+read before the Royal Society of Arts on November 30th, 1910), several
+members of the staff of the Santa Fe Land Company aided me by writing
+some useful and interesting notes on subjects connected with Argentina,
+and also giving various experiences which they had undergone whilst
+resident there. I am indebted to the writers for many hints on life in
+Argentina, and as I think that others will find the reading of the notes
+as engaging as I did, they are now reproduced just as I received them,
+and incorporated with my own paper in a book of which they form by no
+means the least interesting part.
+
+The final portion of the book--Leaves from a journal entitled "The
+Tacuru"--is written in a lighter vein. It describes a trip through some
+of the Northern lands of the Santa Fe Land Company, and it is included
+because, although frankly humorous, it contains much really useful
+information and many capital illustrations, I should, however, mention
+that this journal was written by members of the expedition, and was
+originally intended solely for their own private edification and
+amusement; therefore all the happier phases of the trip are noted; but I
+can assure my English readers that the trip, well though it was planned,
+was not all luxury.
+
+To the many who have helped me in this work I tender my most sincere
+thanks.
+
+CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE.
+
+     LAWFORD PLACE,
+        MANNINGTREE, ESSEX,
+            _December, 1910_.
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                   PAGE
+
+ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW                1
+
+HISTORY OF THE SANTA FE LAND COMPANY, LIMITED        33
+
+THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA                       45
+
+REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE   51
+
+SOME EXPERIENCE OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS              57
+
+THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE                         69
+
+CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE                            75
+
+HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE                        79
+
+SUNDAYS IN CAMP                                      87
+
+THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA                     91
+
+POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY                               97
+
+A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO                       107
+
+WORK IN THE WOODS                                   119
+
+CACHAPES, AND OTHER THINGS                          125
+
+MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN                                131
+
+DUST AND OTHER STORMS                               141
+
+LOCUSTS                                             147
+
+CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC            155
+
+ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901                   161
+
+PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES                185
+
+JUST MY LUCK!                                       193
+
+"THE TACURU"                                        199
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS.
+
+
+                                               FACING PAGE
+
+CATTLE TRAIN ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY,
+BRINGING CATTLE TO BARRANCOSA                           39
+
+LOADING WHEAT AT ROSARIO FROM THE "BARRANCA"            40
+
+SAN CRISTOBAL ESTANCIA HOUSE                            41
+
+WATERING-PLACE AT BARRANCOSA                            42
+
+WOOD ON THE COMPANY'S OWN LINE READY FOR LOADING        43
+
+LOADING TIMBER AT WAYSIDE STATION                       44
+
+WHEAT READY FOR LOADING AT STATION ON CENTRAL
+ARGENTINE RAILWAY                                       48
+
+THE MAKER OF LAND VALUES                                50
+
+TENNIS PARTY AT VERA                                    73
+
+CARNIVAL AT VERA                                        77
+
+"A DAY OF REAL ENJOYMENT"                               90
+
+SQUARE QUEBRACHO LOGS WORKED BY THE AXEMAN, SHOWING
+RESIN OOZING THEREFROM                                 134
+
+LOADING WHEAT AT THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES              187
+
+HORSES AWAITING INSPECTION                             209
+
+STACKING ALFALFA                                       210
+
+ALFALFA ELEVATOR AT WORK                               211
+
+THE GREEN FIELDS OF ALFALFA                            212
+
+HERD OF CATTLE                                         215
+
+EXPANSE OF ALFALFA                                     221
+
+DISC-PLOUGH AT WORK                                    222
+
+ROADMAKER AND RAILROAD BUILDER                         223
+
+PLOUGHING VIRGIN CAMP                                  226
+
+HART-PARR ENGINE, DRAWING ROADMAKER                    228
+
+CATTLE LEAVING DIP                                     233
+
+CROSSING THE SALADO                                    240
+
+THE EFFECT OF A LONG DROUGHT                           241
+
+REFINED CAMPS                                          242
+
+"RICH BLACK ALLUVIAL SOIL"                             251
+
+WATER KNEE-DEEP                                        265
+
+QUEBRACHO COLORADO TREE                                266
+
+SLEEPERS AWAITING TRANSPORT AT VERA                    267
+
+TANNIN EXTRACT FACTORY                                 268
+
+SOME OF THE HORSES                                     271
+
+"AWFUL FLOOD"                                          276
+
+ON THE WAY TO OLMOS                                    277
+
+
+
+LIST OF DIAGRAMS.
+
+                                               FACING PAGE
+
+IMMIGRATION RETURNS                                      2
+
+AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION                                14
+
+CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES                             15
+
+VALUE IN L STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF
+ARGENTINA, 1900-09                                      22
+
+
+
+
+ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW.
+
+
+Argentina, which does not profess to be a manufacturing country,
+exported in 1909 material grown on her own lands to the value of
+L79,000,000, and imported goods to the extent of L60,000,000. This fact
+arrests our attention, and forces us to recognise that there is a trade
+balance of nearly 20 millions sterling in her favour, and to realise the
+saving power of the country.
+
+It is not mere curiosity which prompts us to ask: "Are these L79,000,000
+worth of exports of any value to us? Do we consume any of them? Do we
+manufacture any of them? And do we send any of this same stuff back
+again after it has been dealt with by our British artisans?" It would be
+difficult to follow definitely any one article, but upon broad lines the
+questions are simple and can be easily answered. Amongst the
+agricultural exports we find wheat, oats, maize, linseed, and flour. The
+value placed upon these in 1908 amounted to L48,000,000, and England
+pays for and consumes nearly 42 per cent. of these exports. Other goods,
+such as frozen beef, chilled beef, mutton, pork, wool, and articles
+which may be justly grouped as the results of the cattle and sheep
+industry, amounted to no less a figure than L23,000,000. All these
+exports represent foodstuffs or other necessities of life, and are
+consumed by those nations which do not produce enough from their own
+soil to keep their teeming populations. Another export which is worthy
+of particular mention comes from the forests, viz., quebracho, which, in
+the form of logs and extract, was exported in 1908 to the value of
+L1,200,000. The value of material of all sorts sent from England to
+Argentina in 1908 was L16,938,872 (this figure includes such things as
+manufactured woollen goods, leather goods, oils, and paints), therefore
+it is clear that we have, and must continue to take, a practical and
+financial interest in the welfare and prosperity of Argentina.
+
+New countries cannot get on without men willing and ready to exploit
+Nature's gifts, and, naturally, we look to the immigration returns when
+considering Argentina's progress. To give each year's return for the
+last 50 years would be wearisome, but, taking the average figures for
+ten-year periods from 1860 to 1909, we have the following interesting
+table. (The figures represent the balance of those left in the country
+after allowing for emigration):--
+
+                                  Yearly Average.
+From 1860 to 1869 (inclusive)   ...  15,044
+  "  1870  " 1879   "           ...  29,462
+  "  1880  " 1889   "           ...  84,586
+  "  1890  " 1899   "           ...  43,618
+  "  1900  " 1909   "           ... 100,998
+
+Sixty-five per cent. of the immigrants are agricultural labourers, who
+soon find work in the country, and again add their quota to the
+increasing quantity and value of materials to be exported. Facing this
+page is a diagram of the Immigration Returns from 1857 to 1909.
+
+Nature has been lavish in her gifts to Argentina, and man has taken
+great advantage of these gifts. My desire now is to show what has been
+done in the way of developing agriculture in this richly-endowed country
+during the last fifty years. One name which should never be forgotten in
+Argentina is that of William Wheelwright, whose entrance into active
+life in Buenos Aires was not particularly dignified; in 1826 he was
+shipwrecked at the mouth of the River Plate, and struggled on
+barefooted, hatless and starving to the small town of Quilmes.
+
+[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF IMMIGRATION RETURNS.
+
+NOTE:--IN THE YEARS 1888, 1889 & 1890 THE ARGENTINE GOVERNMENT ASSISTED
+PASSAGES.]
+
+Mr. Wheelwright was an earnest and far-seeing man, and his knowledge of
+railways in the United States helped him to realise their great
+possibilities in Argentina; but, strange to say, upon his return to his
+native land he could not impress any of those men who afterwards became
+such great "Railway Kings" in the U.S.A. Failing to obtain capital for
+Argentine railway development in his own country, Wheelwright came to
+England, and interested Thomas Brassey, whose name was then a household
+word amongst railway pioneers. These two men associated themselves with
+Messrs. Ogilvie & Wythes, forming themselves into the firm of Brassey,
+Ogilvie, Wythes & Wheelwright, whose first work was the building of a
+railway 17,480 kilometres long between Buenos Aires and Quilmes in 1863;
+afterwards they built the line from Rosario to Cordova, which is
+embodied to-day in the Central Argentine Railway. Other railways were
+projected, and this policy of progress and extension of the steel road
+still holds good in Argentina.
+
+The year 1857 saw the first railway built, from Buenos Ayres to Flores,
+5,879 kilometres long; in 1870 there were 457 miles of railroad; in 1880
+the railways had increased their mileage to 1,572; in 1890 Argentina
+possessed 5,895 miles of railway, and in 1900 there were 10,352 miles.
+
+The rapid increase in railway mileage during the last nine years is as
+follows:--
+
+In 1901 there were 10,565 miles of railway.
+ " 1902  "     "   10,868   "    "    "
+ " 1903  "     "   11,500   "    "    "
+ " 1904  "     "   12,140   "    "    "
+ " 1905  "     "   12,370   "    "    "
+ " 1906  "     "   12,850   "    "    "
+ " 1907  "     "   13,829   "    "    "
+ " 1908  "     "   14,825   "    "    "
+ " 1909  "     "   15,937[A]"    "    "
+
+12,000 of which are owned by English companies, representing a capital
+investment of L170,000,000.
+
+In other words, for the last forty years Argentina has built railways
+at the rate of over a mile a day, and in 1907, 1908, and 1909 her
+average rate per day was nearly three miles. This means that owing to
+the extension of railways during this last year alone, over a million
+more acres of land could have been given up to the plough if suitable
+for the cultivation of corn.
+
+When William Wheelwright first visited Argentina it was little more than
+an unknown land, whose inhabitants had no ambition, and no desire to
+acquire wealth--except at the expense of broken heads. There was a
+standard of wealth, but it lay in the number of cattle owned; land was
+of little value, save for feeding cattle, and therefore counted for
+naught, but cattle could be boiled down for tallow; bones and hides were
+also marketable commodities; the man, therefore, who possessed cattle
+possessed wealth.
+
+The opening out of the country by railways soon changed the aspect of
+affairs. The man who possessed cattle was no longer considered the rich
+man; it was he who owned leagues of land upon which wheat could be grown
+who became the potentially rich man; he, by cutting up his land and
+renting it to the immigrants, who were beginning to flock in in an
+endless stream to the country, found that riches were being accumulated
+for him without much exertion on his part. He took a risk inasmuch as he
+received payment in kind only. Therefore, when the immigrants did well,
+so did he, and as many thousands of immigrants have become rich, it
+follows that the land proprietors have become immensely so. It was the
+railways which created this possibility, and endowed the country by
+rendering it practicable to grow corn where cattle only existed before,
+but many Argentines to-day forget what they owe to the railway pioneers;
+it is the railways, and the railways only, which render the splendid and
+yearly increasing exports possible.
+
+In 1858 cattle formed 25 per cent. of the total wealth of Argentina, but
+in 1885 cattle only represented 18 per cent. of the total wealth,
+railways having made it possible during those thirty years to utilise
+lands for other purposes than cattle-feeding. Let it be clearly
+understood, the total value of cattle had not decreased; far from that,
+the cattle had increased in value during the above period to the extent
+of L48,000,000, and to-day cattle, sheep, horses, mules, pigs, goats and
+asses represent a value of nearly L130,000,000. The following table
+shows how great the improvement has been in Argentine animals:--
+
+                                             Per Head.
+Cattle in 1885 were valued at an average of  $13[B]
+   "      1908        "      "      "         32
+Sheep  in 1885        "      "      "          2
+   "      1908        "      "      "          4
+Horses in 1885        "      "      "         11
+          1908        "      "      "         25
+
+Notwithstanding these increased valuations per head, and the larger
+number of animals in the country, the value created by man's labour far
+outweighs the increased value of mere breeding animals.
+
+Next to the railways the improvements in shipping have helped the
+development of Argentina; the shipping trade of Buenos Aires has
+increased at the rate of one million tons per annum for the past few
+years, and the entries into the port form an interesting and instructive
+table:
+
+The following statement gives the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires from 1880 to 1909, and will more clearly show the
+increase and advance made in the last thirty years. These figures
+include both steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well as foreign
+trade:--
+
+                Tons.
+1880  ...    644,750
+1881  ...    827,072
+1882  ...    995,597
+1883  ...  1,207,321
+1884  ...  1,782,382
+1885  ...  2,200,779
+1886  ...  2,408,323
+1887  ...  3,369,057
+1888  ...  3,396,212
+1889  ...  3,804,037
+1890  ...  4,507,096
+1891  ...  4,546,729
+1892  ...  5,475,942
+1893  ...  6,177,818
+1894  ...  6,686,123
+1895  ...  6,894,834
+1896  ...  6,115,547
+1897  ...  7,365,547
+1898  ...  8,051,045
+1899  ...  8,741,934
+1900  ...  8,047,010
+1901  ...  8,661,300
+1902  ...  8,902,605
+1903  ... 10,269,298
+1904  ... 10,424,615
+1905  ... 11,467,954
+1906  ... 12,448,219
+1907  ... 13,335,733
+1908  ... 15,465,417
+1909  ... 16,993,973
+
+In 1897, out of the total number of steamers that entered Buenos Aires,
+viz., 901, with a tonnage of 2,342,391; 519, with a tonnage of
+1,327,571, were British. Taking the year 1909 we find that 2,008
+steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the port of Buenos Aires from
+foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542, and 1,978 steamers and 129
+sailing-vessels left the port for foreign shores with a tonnage of
+5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead with 2,242 steamers and 37
+sailing-vessels, or say 53-1/2 per cent. of the total. Germany comes
+next with 456 steamers and 2 sailing-vessels, or say 10-3/4 per cent, of
+the total. Italy with 307 steamers and 67 sailing-vessels is next, and
+then France with 264 steamers. The total number of steamers that entered
+and left the port from local and foreign ports is 13,485, with a tonnage
+of 14,481,526, and 20,264 sailing-vessels with 2,512,447 tons, which
+make up the amount of 16,993,973 tons, as shown above.
+
+In the year 1884 the experiment of freezing beef, killed in Buenos
+Aires, and shipping it to Europe was first tried. That was successful,
+but an immense improvement was made when the process of chilling became
+the common means by which meat could be exported. The frozen beef trade
+in Argentina has had a wonderful development; it commenced in 1884, and
+the export of chilled meat has progressed steadily at the rate of 25,000
+beeves yearly, until, in 1908, it reached the enormous quantity of
+573,946 beeves, or 180,000 tons. Frozen mutton has remained
+comparatively steady, and has only increased by 38,000 tons in
+twenty-two years, or from 2,000,000 sheep frozen in 1886 to 3,297,667 in
+1908, whilst "jerked beef," which was mostly sent to Cuba and Brazil,
+has fallen from 50,000 tons per annum to 6,651 tons. The value of frozen
+and preserved meats exported in 1908 was L5,233,948.
+
+The value of live-stock in Argentina in 1908 was made up as follows:--
+
+Cattle  ... ... ... L82,000,000
+Sheep   ... ... ...  25,000,000
+Horses  ... ... ...  18,000,000
+Mules   ... ... ...   2,000,000
+Pigs    ... ... ...   1,368,000
+Goats and Asses ...   1,000,000
+
+A few years ago it was common on an estancia feeding 50,000 or 60,000
+cattle to find the household using canned Swiss milk. To-day 425,000
+litres of milk are brought into the city of Buenos Aires each day for
+consumption, and no less than two tons of butter, one ton of cream, and
+three tons of cheese are used there daily. Argentina also exports
+butter. This trade has sprung up entirely within the last fourteen
+years, and in 1908 she exported 3,549 tons of butter, the value of which
+was L283,973.
+
+Until 1876 Argentina imported wheat for home consumption; in that year,
+when for many years past agricultural labourers had been arriving at an
+average of 25,000 per annum, she began to export wheat with a modest
+shipment of 5,000 tons. Thirty years later the export had mounted up to
+2,247,988 tons, and in 1908 the wheat exported amounted to 3,636,293
+tons, and was valued at L25,768,520. Agricultural colonies had sprung up
+everywhere, and cattle became of second-rate importance; to-day the
+value of the exports of corn, which term includes wheat, barley, maize,
+oats, etc., is more than double that of cattle and cattle products. It
+is interesting to follow the evolution wrought by labour, intelligence,
+and capital in the prairie lands of Argentina. First, let us note the
+developments on those wonderful tracts of splendid prairie lands lying
+between the River Plate and the Andes: fifty years ago these lands were
+of little account, and only a few cattle were to be found roaming about
+them, but upon the advance of the railway they came under the plough,
+and, without much attention or care, produced wheat and maize. After a
+time improvements in the method of cultivation produced a better return,
+and to-day a great deal of attention is paid to the preparing of the
+land, and thought and care are given to the seed time, the growing, and
+the harvest. When it is found desirable to rest the land after crops of
+wheat and maize, etc., alfalfa is grown thereon. Alfalfa is one of the
+clover tribe, and has the peculiar property of attaching to itself those
+micro-organisms which are able to fix the nitrogen in the air and render
+it available for plant food. Every colonist knows the value of alfalfa
+for feeding his animals, but it is not every colonist who knows why this
+plant occupies such a high place amongst feeding stuffs. Alfalfa is
+easily grown, very strong when established, and, provided its roots can
+get to water, will go on growing for years. The _raison d'etre_ for
+growing alfalfa is for the feeding of cattle and preparing them for
+market, and for this purpose a league of alfalfa (6,177 acres metric
+measurement) will carry on an average 3,500 head. When grown for dry
+fodder it produces three or four crops per annum and a fair yield is
+from 6 to 8 tons per acre of dry alfalfa for each year. A ton of such
+hay is worth about $20 to $30, and after deducting expenses there is a
+clear return of about $14 per acre.
+
+The figures supplied by one large company are interesting; they show
+that, on an average, cattle, when placed upon alfalfa lands, improve in
+value at the rate of $2.00 per head per month, so it is easy to place a
+value on its feeding properties. Thus, we will take a camp under alfalfa
+capable of carrying 10,000 head of cattle all the year round, where as
+the fattened animals are sold off an equal number is bought to replace
+them. Such a camp would bring in a clear profit of $200,000 per annum,
+and the property should be worth L175,000 sterling. An animal that has
+been kept all its life on rough camp, and, when too old for breeding, is
+placed for the first time on alfalfa lands, fattens extremely quickly,
+and the meat is tender and in quality compares favourably with any other
+beef. No business in Argentina of the same importance has shown such
+good returns as cattle breeding, and these results have been chiefly
+brought about by the introduction of alfalfa, and a knowledge of the
+life history of alfalfa is of the greatest importance to the cattle
+farmer. All cereal crops take from the soil mineral matter and nitrogen.
+Therefore, after continuous cropping the land becomes exhausted and
+generally poorer; experience has taught us that rotation of crops is a
+necessity to alleviate the strain on the soil, and such an axiom has
+this become that in many cases English landlords insist that their
+leases shall contain a clause binding the tenants to grow certain stated
+crops in rotation.
+
+This system is known in England as the four-course shift. Knowledge
+gained by successive generations of observant farmers has given us the
+key to what Nature had hitherto kept to herself, and to-day we know why
+the plan adopted by our forefathers was right, and why the rotation of
+crops was, and is, a necessity. Men of science are devoting their lives
+to the systematic study of Nature's hidden secrets, and by means of
+Agricultural Colleges, as well as private individual research, these
+discoveries are being given to mankind, and long before the soils of
+Argentina show any serious loss of nitrogen from continuous cropping,
+science will probably have established means of applying in a practical
+manner those methods already known of propagating the
+nitrogen-collecting bacteria which thrive on alfalfa, clover, peas, soya
+beans, and other leguminous plants. Almost every country is now devoting
+time, money, and energy to agricultural research work. In 1908 the
+Agricultural College at Ontario prepared no less than 474 packages of
+Legume Bacteria, and in 309 cases beneficial results followed from the
+application thereof to the soil; in 165 cases no improvements in the
+crops were noticed, this may, however, have been due to the want of
+knowledge of how to manipulate the bacteria, or to lack of experience in
+noting effects scientifically, but in any case the experiment must be
+considered successful when the results obtained were satisfactory in no
+less than 65 per cent. of the trials. No greater factor exists than the
+microscope in opening up and hunting out the secrets concealed in the
+very soil we are standing on.
+
+If soils were composed of nothing but pure silica sand, nothing would
+ever grow; but in Nature we find that soils contain all sorts of mineral
+matter, and chief amongst these is lime.
+
+Alfalfa thrives on land which contains lime, and gives but poor results
+where this ingredient is deficient. The explanation is simple. There is
+a community of interest between the very low microscopic animal life,
+known as bacteria, and plant life generally. In every ounce of soil
+there are millions of these living germs which have their allotted work
+to do, and they thrive best in soils containing lime.
+
+If one digs up with great care a root of alfalfa (it need not be an old
+plant, the youngest plant will show the same peculiarity), and care is
+taken in exposing the root (perhaps the best method is the washing away
+of the surrounding earth by water), some small nodules attached to the
+fine, hair-like roots are easily distinguished by the naked eye, and
+these nodules are the home of a teeming, microscopical, industrious
+population, who perform their allotted work with the silent, persistent
+energy so often displayed in Nature. Men of science have been able to
+identify at least three classes of these bacteria, and to ascertain the
+work accomplished by each. The reason for their existence would seem to
+be that one class is able to convert the nitrogen in the air into
+ammonia, whilst others work it into nitrite, and the third class so
+manipulate it as to form a nitrate which is capable of being used for
+plant food.
+
+Now, although one ton of alfalfa removes from the soil 50 lb. of
+nitrogen, yet that crop leaves the soil richer in nitrogen, because the
+alfalfa has encouraged the multiplication of those factories which
+convert some of the thousands of tons of nitrogen floating above the
+earth into substance suitable for food for plant life. As a dry fodder
+for cattle three tons of alfalfa contains as much nutrition as two tons
+of wheat.
+
+The cost of growing alfalfa greatly depends upon the situation of the
+land to be dealt with; also upon whether labour is plentiful or not;
+but, in order to give some idea of the advantage of growing this cattle
+food, we will imagine the intrinsic value of the undeveloped land to be
+L4,000, upon which, under existing conditions, it would be possible to
+keep 1,000 head of animals, whereas if this same land were under alfalfa
+3,000 to 3,500 animals would be fattened thereon, and the land would
+have increased in value to L20,000 or L30,000.
+
+Now, if the undeveloped land is to be improved, it becomes necessary
+either to work it yourself, with your own men, in which case you must
+provide ploughs, horses, bullocks, etc., or to carry out the plan
+usually adopted, that of letting the land to colonists who have had some
+experience in this class of work. Usually a colonist will undertake to
+cultivate from 500 to 600 acres, and agrees to pay to the landowner
+anything from 10 per cent. to 30 per cent. of his crops according to the
+distance of the land from the railway. The colonist brings his
+agricultural tackle along with him, and establishes his house (usually a
+most primitive affair), digs his well, and then proceeds to plough. In
+this work the whole family joins; the father leads the way, followed by
+the eldest child, and all the others in rotation, with the wife bringing
+up the rear; she keeps a maternal eye upon the little mite, who with
+great gusto and terrific yells manages somehow to cling to the plough
+and to do his or her share with the rest. Is it to be wondered at that
+work progresses fast under these conditions? There is but one idea
+prevalent in the family, namely, that time and opportunity are with
+them.
+
+The first crop grown on newly-broken ground is usually maize; the second
+year's crop is linseed, and perhaps a third year's crop--probably
+wheat--is grown by the colonist before the land is handed back to the
+owner ready to be put down in alfalfa. The colonist's cultivation of the
+land will have effectually killed off the natural rough grasses which
+would otherwise grow up and choke the alfalfa. Sometimes the alfalfa is
+sown with the colonist's last crop, and in such cases the landowner
+finds the alfalfa seed, and during the sowing of this crop it is very
+advisable that either he or his agent should be in constant attendance,
+because the after results greatly depend upon the care with which the
+seeding has been done. When the colonist's contract is completed he
+moves on to another part, and the owner, who has year by year received a
+percentage of the crops, takes back his land. Considerable outlay has
+now to be made in fences, wells, and buildings; the more there are of
+these the better, the land will carry a larger head of cattle and the
+control of them is easy when the camp has been properly divided.
+
+The colonists are generally Italians. They are an industrious and kindly
+people, hardy and quiet, well content with their surroundings, careful
+and frugal in their living, and many thousands could go back to their
+own country with wealth which has been acquired by constant and
+assiduous attention to the economies of life.
+
+It has often been said that an Englishman will starve where an Italian
+will thrive, and in some respects this is true; but it would be better
+expressed if it were stated that an Italian can adapt himself to
+circumstances better than an Englishman. At the same time, I doubt if an
+Italian would come off best were the two placed on a desert island where
+instantaneous action, grit, and endurance were called for.
+
+Many things are said of an Englishman, and none fits his character
+better than that which gives him the privilege of "grumbling," and this
+characteristic becomes more marked when he is able to grumble with one
+of his own kith and kin. I have heard Argentines praise Englishmen, who,
+they say, manage their estancias far and away beyond all others, but at
+the same time they have told me that they would never allow two
+Englishmen on their place at once.
+
+It has been said that many of the immigrants do not intend to settle in
+the country. Probably this idea has gained ground on account of the
+large numbers of the labouring population, who are attracted to
+Argentina by the high wages ruling during the harvest time, and then
+find it pays them to go home and secure the European harvest, but
+generally these men come out again to stay. They have acquired a
+knowledge of the country, and often enough have also acquired an
+interest in some land, and they return, bringing their families, to
+adopt Argentina as their home--for a period at least.
+
+A glance at the statistics prepared by the authorities in Buenos Aires
+shows that during the last fifty-two years 4,250,980 persons entered as
+immigrants, and out of this number only 1,690,783 returned, leaving in
+the country 2,560,197 individuals, or an average of 50,000 workers per
+annum. These figures have become even more marked of recent years.
+Taking the last five years, the country has received on an average
+249,000 immigrants per annum; of these, 103,000 went back. In other
+words, 727,670 have made their homes within the borders of Argentina
+during the past five years, and of these at least 500,000 were
+agriculturists.
+
+It is not to be wondered at, then, that the exports, chiefly made up of
+agricultural produce, have shown extraordinary progress. Facing this
+page is a diagram showing the agricultural exportation from 1900 to
+1908.
+
+[Illustration: AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION INCLUDING WHEAT, LINSEED, OATS,
+MAIZE, ETC.]
+
+[Illustration: CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES. (1 HECTARE = 2.471 ACRES)]
+
+Nothing can be more eloquent than the figures shown in this diagram.
+This remarkable progress, almost steady in its upward march, is not in
+one direction only. Argentina is an ideal country for agriculturists,
+and in every branch of that industry progress has been made. Greater
+care is being taken to-day in working up the by-products of the cattle
+business. More varied crops are being grown, and vegetable by-products
+are being economically looked after. The forests of Argentina are also
+being worked for the benefit of mankind. The Quebracho Colorado tree
+forms a very important item of export. It is sent out of the country
+either in the form of logs, of which no less than 254,571 tons were
+exported in 1908, or in the form of an extract for tanning purposes;
+48,162 tons of this extract were made and exported in 1908, and a small
+quantity of the wood was exported in the shape of sawdust. The total
+value of Quebracho Colorado exported in various forms in that year was,
+as already stated, L1,200,000. This means that the Quebracho forests are
+being depleted at the rate of half a million tons per annum for export
+purposes alone, in addition to the enormous quantities used for
+sleepers, etc., in the country.
+
+The area in acres under cultivation for the year 1908 was 46,174,250, an
+increase of 265 per cent, on the land under cultivation in the year
+1895.
+
+The diagram facing this page shows the area in hectares cultivated from
+1897 to 1908:--
+
+WHEAT--The area under cultivation for wheat shows an increase of 89 per
+cent, in ten years from--
+
+8,000,000 acres in cultivation in 1898, to
+15,157,750  "   "       "      "  1908
+
+LINSEED--shows an increase of 361 per cent, from--
+
+831,972 acres in cultivation in 1898, to
+3,835,750 "   "       "      "  1908
+
+MAIZE--increased by 250 per cent., and other crops, including Oats, 300
+per cent. in the same period.
+
+The United Kingdom purchased from Argentina and retained for its own use
+(in round figures) during the year 1908--
+
+WHEAT       to the value of L13,000,000
+MAIZE          "       "      5,600,000
+FROZEN MEAT    "       "      9,300,000
+                            -----------
+          Making a total of L27,900,000
+                            -----------
+
+Indeed, we buy from Argentina nearly 25 per cent. of our total food
+purchased abroad, and she supplies nearly 29 per cent. of our corn and
+grain requirements. These figures again clearly demonstrate that we have
+a vital interest in the well-being of our friends across the sea.
+
+In every direction Argentina has progressed, and judging from the past
+we may look with confidence to the future; the total area of the
+Republic is 776,064,000 acres, and certainly it is within the bounds of
+reasonable forecast to consider that 100,000,000 acres of this land will
+be, when opened up by railways, and other facilities, available for
+corn-growing. To-day only one-fifth of this available area is being
+cultivated, and another 43,000,000 acres are being utilised for feeding
+purposes; thus, only 63,000,000 out of 776,000,000 acres are being
+occupied. The chief reason why more is not utilised is because there is
+not sufficient labour available.
+
+  Argentina                   has   5    inhabitants per square mile.
+  Russia                       "   18         "             "
+  Canada, Newfoundland, etc.   "    1-1/2     "             "
+  Australia                    "    1-1/3     "             "
+  U. Kingdom                   "  364         "             "
+  Belgium                      "  625         "             "
+  Germany                      "  290         "             "
+
+Not only is there an enormous tract of land lying dormant, but the
+productive power of land now under cultivation may be vastly increased
+if farmers will devote their attention to improving the conditions of
+cultivation. 11.3 bushels of wheat per acre is not high-class farming,
+yet this is the average production for Argentina. Manitoba in 1908
+produced 13-1/2 bushels per acre, Saskatchewan, 17 bushels. In the
+fourteenth century England only produced 10 bushels per acre, but we
+have improved this yield to 30 bushels, while Roumania has increased her
+yield from 15 bushels per acre in 1890, to 23 bushels in 1908. France
+has increased her yield from 17 bushels in 1884, to 20 bushels in 1908.
+Germany has increased her yield per acre from 20 bushels in 1899, to 30
+bushels in 1908. So that we may not only look forward to a greater area
+being placed under cultivation, but we may reasonably expect heavier
+crops, if land proprietors will bring science to bear on their work of
+development. Indeed, with land rising in price, with an increasing
+influx of immigrants, and with more intelligent cultivation of the soil,
+the land must of necessity give a far larger yield than it has done
+heretofore.
+
+The following tables, taken from the Board of Trade returns, show from
+whence England draws some of her supplies. They also show how
+prominently Argentina figures as a food producer. The first table
+includes corn and meat; the second gives corn alone, and the third meat
+alone:--
+
+FOOD IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.
+
+CORN (including wheat, barley, oats, rye,
+  buckwheat, peas, beans, maize, wheatmeal,
+  flour, oatmeal, and offals)                 L71,103,487
+
+MEAT, fresh and frozen  (including animals
+for food)                                      48,704,613
+
+                                  Total      L119,808,100
+
+Of this--
+
+                                   L          Per Cent.
+    Argentina supplied         29,569,773 or   24.68
+    U.S.A. supplied            38,229,135 or   31.90
+    Russia supplied             7,394,607 or    6.18
+    Canada supplied            11,907,203 or    9.94
+    Australia (including
+     Tasmania) supplied         4,520,244 or    3.77
+    Other Colonies and Foreign
+     Countries supplied        28,187,138 or   23.53
+
+                             L119,808,100 or  100.00
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CORN IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908.
+
+                   Argentina.  U.S.A.    Russia.    Canada.  Australia
+                                                            (including
+                                                            Tasmania).
+
+
+                       L          L         L          L         L
+Wheat     ... ... | 13,096,812 10,779,221 2,286,180  6,335,329 2,402,988
+                  |
+Barley    ... ... |     22,943    733,446 2,622,005    205,697     --
+                  |
+Oats      ... ... |  1,463,368      --    1,144,387      6,441     --
+                  |
+Rye       ... ... |      --       129,691    93,066     49,009     --
+                  |
+Buckwheat ... ... |      --         --        6,677      --        --
+                  |
+Peas      ... ... |      --        38,545    42,279    105,495     2,345
+                  |
+Beans (not fresh, |
+other than Haricot|
+Beans)   ... ...  |      --         --       15,094      --        --
+                  |
+Maize     ... ... |  5,603,463  2,023,576  1,107,858    44,822     --
+                  |
+Wheatmeal         |
+and Flour     ... |     50,597  5,407,119         80   809,479   119,440
+                  |
+Oatmeal and       |
+  Rolled Oats ... |      --       183,334      --      207,516     --
+                  |
+Farinaceous sub-  |
+  stances (except |
+  Starch, Farina, |
+  Dextrine, and   |
+  Potato Flour)   |      --        99,112      --       59,302     --
+                  |
+Bran and Pollard  |     11,932       --         --        --        --
+                  |
+Sharps and        |
+  Middlings       |     35,113       --         --        --        --
+                  |
+Maize Meal        |       --       129,543      --        --        --
+              ----+-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------
+                 L 20,284,228 | 19,523,587 | 7,317,626 | 7,823,090 | 2,524,773
+              ----------------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------
+Percentage             28.53% |    27.46%  |  10.29%   | 11.00%    | 3.56%
+              ----------------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+     Other
+ Colonies and
+    Foreign        Total.
+   Countries.
+
+      L              L
+ 13,630,183[C]   71,103,487
+
+---------------+-------------+
+ 13,630,183    | 71,103,487  |
+---------------+-------------+
+  19.16%       | = 100%      |
+---------------+-------------+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+MEAT, including animals for food, and fresh, chilled, frozen and tinned,
+imported into and retained by the United Kingdom in 1908:
+
+                                    L        Per Cent.
+
+Argentina supplied              9,285,545 or   19.07
+U.S.A.       "                 18,705,548 "    38.41
+Russia       "                     76,981 "     0.16
+Canada       "                  4,084,113 "     8.38
+Australia (including Tasmania)
+          supplied              1,995,471 "     4.10
+Other Colonies and Foreign
+Countries supplied[D]          14,556,955 "    29.88
+
+                               48,704,613 "   100.00
+
+
+
+The lesson shown here is one worthy of attention. We see that Argentina
+supplies England with one-fourth of her imported food, and U.S.A.
+supplies nearly one-third. Therefore it behoves both England and
+Argentina to see that America does not so manipulate things that she
+acquires the control over our meat and food supplies.
+
+Argentine authorities should not only exercise the law sanctioned
+February 4th, 1907, concerning the inspection of factories, but they
+should enforce greater care in seeing that all Argentine saladeros and
+packing-houses are manipulated with intense care, and cleanliness should
+be insisted upon; it would be a bad day for Argentina should ever such
+an outcry be raised against her saladeros as that which a few years ago
+was directed against the North American packing houses and for a time
+ruined the canning industry of the United States, and yet we find
+American methods being introduced into Argentina without let or
+hindrance. If our soldiers and sailors are to be fed upon canned meats,
+let those who are responsible for purchasing the food, at least see that
+the food is prepared under healthy and sanitary conditions.
+
+The corn-growing industry of the Argentine Republic is an intensely
+interesting subject. Before railways and steamships brought the foreign
+producer into close competition with our own farmers, Argentina did not
+produce enough grain to supply her home consumption, and cattle were
+bred only for their hides, tallow and bones. In the course of time, when
+steamers superseded sailing-ships and the world's carrying capacity
+thus became enormously increased, Argentina saw her opportunity of
+becoming a keen competitor in the food market. Corn-growing became a
+highly remunerative business, although much still remains to be learned
+concerning the handling of wheat. Both in the States and Canada grain is
+handled in a cheaper and more expeditious manner than in Argentina. An
+enormous amount of grain is dealt with in the Wheat Exchange of
+Winnipeg, but a further big impetus will be given to this industry when
+the wheat-fields of Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba are connected
+with a deep-sea port on Hudson Bay; this will be an accomplished fact in
+1915, and as this route means a thousand miles less haulage by land, and
+eight hundred less by sea to the chief European ports than by any
+existing route, it is bound to become the popular one; the chief factor,
+however, in making it a useful wheat outlet is the established fact that
+Hudson Bay, although many miles north of Lake Superior, remains free
+from ice for a period of one month after Lake Superior is tightly frozen
+up.
+
+Argentina may look forward to keen competition with Canada and Siberia
+for many years to come; on the other hand, the U.S.A. will steadily show
+a smaller quantity of wheat available for exportation, and the following
+table throws some light upon the wheat position:--
+
+Argentina and Uruguay have increased
+  the area of their wheat-growing
+  land brought under the plough in
+  the last ten years by                      124 per cent.
+Canada in the last ten years by              120 per cent.
+Russia in the last ten years by               27 per cent.
+United States in the last ten years by        14 per cent.
+
+No country in the world has shown such wonderful capabilities for
+growing linseed as the Argentine, and her average production for the
+following five-year periods show this expansion:--
+
+Years.        Production in Tons.
+1894-1898           193,000
+1899-1903           382,000
+1904-1908           839,000
+
+In ten years she increased her production by 335 per cent. In the same
+period India increased her production by 3.8 per cent., and North
+America by 105 per cent., whilst Russia was unable to keep up her
+supply.
+
+The world's total linseed production for 1908 was made up as follows:--
+
+Argentina      produced 1,101,000 tons.
+North America  produced   694,000 tons.
+Russia         produced   470,000 tons.
+India          produced   360,000 tons.
+
+Here again we find Argentina leading. Moreover, she exported nearly the
+whole of her production, whilst North America, Russia, and India
+exported less than half a million tons between them.
+
+It is more than probable that by 1920 Argentina will be able to export,
+as the result of agricultural work, more than L100,000,000 worth of
+produce per annum. It is interesting to note that, as the present
+figures reveal, allowing for a population of 6,500,000 and an
+agricultural produce export of L48,335,432, each individual in Argentina
+has sent abroad, after producing enough from the land to keep himself,
+goods to the value of nearly L8.
+
+The diagram facing this page shows what has been accomplished by
+Argentina in the last ten years.
+
+[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF VALUE IN L STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF
+ARGENTINA 1900-1909.]
+
+In actual money value the exportation of wheat, linseed, oats, maize,
+other grain, flour, bran, and middlings is, in round figures, as
+follows:--
+
+1900   L15,485,000
+1901    14,319,000
+1902    13,634,000
+1903    21,050,000
+1904    30,065,000
+1905    34,047,000
+1906    31,530,000
+1907    32,818,000
+1908    48,335,000
+1909    46,100,000
+
+CATTLE.
+
+The value derived from the cattle industry and its allied produce is of
+great importance to the Argentine Republic. The exports from this
+industry may be divided into four heads, namely:--
+
+LIVE ANIMALS;
+
+RAW PRODUCTS;
+
+MANUFACTURED OR PARTLY MANUFACTURED MATERIAL AND BY-PRODUCTS.
+
+Since the closing of English ports in 1901 to the importation of live
+cattle from Argentina, the trade in the export of live stock has fallen
+off considerably; the total value did not in 1908 amount to more than
+L568,966; Belgium took 65,224 sheep, Chili took 45,114 cattle and 14,394
+sheep, Bolivia took 3,383 head of cattle and 10,676 sheep, and 16,000
+asses and mules, while horses were imported into England, Africa,
+Portugal, Brazil, Uruguay, Chili, Bolivia, and Paraguay.
+
+Exports of raw products, which include frozen and chilled beef and
+mutton, hides, sheepskins, wool, and such things as horsehair, tallow,
+jerked beef, etc., represented a value of L19,549,231 in 1908.
+
+Manufactured or partly manufactured material, including prepared tallow,
+meat extracts, meat, butter, cheese, lard, dressed leather, etc.,
+represented L2,454,760, whilst the by-products, including bones, dried
+blood, guano, waste fats, etc., were valued at L430,734. Thus,
+Argentina's total export from the cattle industry (after supplying her
+own needs) was over L23,000,000.
+
+Argentina's live stock on hand when the last census was taken in May,
+1908, was as follows:--
+
+Cattle ... ... ... 29,116,625
+Sheep  ... ... ... 67,211,758
+Horses ... ... ...  7,531,376
+Mules, swine,
+goats, and asses    6,098,802
+
+representing in value L129,369,628.
+
+The favourite breed of cattle is the Shorthorn, and they comprise 84 per
+cent, of the classified breeding cows; the Herefords only figure out as
+6 per cent., but, undoubtedly, a more careful and complete
+classification will lead to modifications in these figures, for at the
+present time no less than five and a-half million cows are returned as
+Criollo cattle, in other words, unimproved stock.
+
+Not until the year 1885, when it became possible to send frozen meat to
+Europe, did estancieros pay serious attention to growing cattle for meat
+production, and now, with an ever-increasing quantity of land being
+placed under alfalfa, the Argentine Republic is fast becoming the
+leading factor in the production of meat to satisfy the world's
+consumption.
+
+Cattle on the outside fringe of occupied lands are still very coarse and
+rough, with a distinct strain of the Hereford about them; they are,
+however, a useful herd and most suitable for the districts they occupy,
+where they often have to undergo the hardships of shortage of pasture
+owing to drought, and little or no water, indeed, it is a marvel how
+these animals exist at times; and assuredly no refined breed of cattle
+could live where the Criollos not only manage to thrive, but generally
+to return a satisfactory result to their owners. The cattle on ranches
+which are nearer to the seaports, manufacturing centres, or railway
+stations show distinct improvements. Greater care is bestowed upon them,
+and the main consideration is never lost sight of--it is the ambition of
+every estanciero to have his cattle graded up so that they are looked
+upon as "freezers," which means that they are good enough to be
+purchased by one or other of the refrigerating companies, who take
+nothing but the best.
+
+In 1888 cattle running the northern camps (which then represented the
+extreme outlying posts) were only valued at $6 per head.
+
+In 1890 the value had risen to $10 per head.
+ " 1900   "        "     "      15     "
+ " 1908   "        "     "      28     "
+ " 1910   "        "     "      40     "
+
+The question of stock raising and the object to be obtained must rest
+with the owners: they must decide whether the land is to be utilised for
+fattening cattle or for breeding the high-class animals for which there
+is an ever-ready market. To show the enormous value of animals and the
+high standard to which agricultural lands can be brought, mention must
+be made of two estancias near Buenos Aires, viz., those belonging to
+Messrs. Cobo and Messrs. Bell, where splendid stock is always to be
+found. To give some idea of the high price paid for first-class pedigree
+animals, it may be mentioned that L3,800 was paid for a prize Durham
+bull which was sold to Argentina!
+
+At the cattle show at Buenos Aires held in July, 1910, Herefords for
+killing realized from L850 to L1,000 per animal! These latter high
+prices were, however, evidently paid by the agents of Cold Storage
+Companies for advertising purposes. One representative explained that
+the freezing Companies desired to encourage breeders, and that his
+Company paid the high prices mentioned above so as to let the breeders
+know that they would always be paid high prices for first-class cattle.
+
+When we consider the really important position which Argentina takes as
+a food producer, it appears incredible that the English nation (business
+men and the general public alike) is so extremely ignorant, as a rule,
+of prevailing conditions. I do not refer to those who have invested
+their money in the many channels known to the River Plate circle. But
+men holding high official positions speak of our commercial interests in
+Argentina as "something between a hundred and a hundred and fifty
+millions," and then in a whispered side-speech indicate the dangers of
+revolution.
+
+Often it is suggested that the chances of death from small-pox, yellow
+fever, and even from murder are a serious drawback to what might
+otherwise be a country possible to live in. It makes one very indignant
+to hear these statements from the lips of those who probably have never
+left their own country. Let me assure you they may be swept aside, and
+were it not for their frequent reiteration it would be unnecessary to
+say that there is not one grain of truth in these suggestions as applied
+to the state of things to-day.
+
+Nearly one-fifth of the population of Argentina is centred in and around
+Buenos Aires. It is a city of 1,200,000 inhabitants, many of whom are
+millionaires; but at the same time there exists much poverty within its
+precincts--poverty caused in no small degree by the viciousness of the
+rich, but to a far greater extent by the rooted objection of certain
+classes to go out to the camps where, during the harvest time at least,
+wages are high and labour is anxiously awaited.
+
+When we compare the health of this city of Buenos Aires with that of
+other large cities, we can see what has been done in the way of
+improvements in the last few years. A glance at the following tables
+will give some idea of what has been accomplished. The natural increase
+of the population of Buenos Aires between 1898 and 1907 was 19.1 per
+1,000, and no other city equals this.
+
+The increase in London          was  8.8 per  1,000.
+       "        Berlin           "   8.5      "
+       "        New York         "   5.7      "
+       "        St. Petersburg   "   4.6      "
+
+
+The birth-rate of Buenos Aires for 1908 was 34.3 per 1,000.
+      "       "   London           "        25.7
+      "       "   Berlin           "        23.3
+      "       "   New York         "        28.5
+      "       "   St. Petersburg   "        27.5
+
+Both these tables are, however, probably affected by the great number of
+immigrants finding their way to Argentina, many of whom remain in Buenos
+Aires.
+
+The health of the City may be well gauged by the death-rate for the year
+1907.
+
+Buenos Aires stands well with 15.2 per 1,000 inhabitants.
+London has a death-rate of    15.1       "       "
+Berlin       "       "        14.8       "       "
+New York     "       "        18.6       "       "
+St. Petersburg       "        25.7       "       "
+
+(Undoubtedly the high rate shown by the last-named city is greatly due
+to the foul condition of the Neva.)
+
+
+To appreciate thoroughly the position which Buenos Aires now holds, and
+the strides which have been made in regard to the sanitation of the
+City, we have but to look at the past. Between the years 1889 and 1898
+the death-rate per thousand was as high as 22.9 per 1,000; from 1899 to
+1908 it was only 16.6, and now the record stands at 15.2 per 1,000.
+
+The authorities are justly proud of what has been done, and will not
+diminish their efforts so long as there is work to do and problems to
+solve.
+
+I should like to state once more the fact that the United Kingdom
+depends upon Argentina for nearly one-fourth of her food supply
+purchased abroad. I want to impress upon your mind the seriousness of
+the position, for this proportion of one-fourth will be largely
+increased in the near future, for reasons already stated.
+
+The question has often been asked, "Is it safe to buy land in
+Argentina?" But the drift of this query too often is merely
+self-interest; in other words, it really means "Can I successfully
+speculate in land?" Clearly the matter is solely a personal one, no
+other consideration is thought of, so one is tempted to give an evasive
+answer. Should the questioner, however, be a young fellow, with God's
+gift of health and plenty of truth and grit in him, who wants not only
+to acquire the land, but to work it, then, indeed, there is but one
+answer, and that is in the affirmative--let him go, and let him ever
+remember that he is an Englishman and that England is judged by the
+conduct of her sons: but do not let him make the great mistake a
+newcomer so often falls into, which is, that because he is an Englishman
+all other nationalities must be inferior, and that by some sort of
+divine right he has been created lord of all. Let him realise that those
+whom he meets in Argentina are as noble and pure as those he left at
+home. Argentina offers to-day a splendid opening for the best of
+England's sons, but she does not want the loafer nor the ne'er-do-well.
+Can it be wondered at that England's prestige is seriously injured when
+so many of the "wasters," and worse, are sent from the country? It is
+but natural that from these, who go to foreign countries, England is
+judged. To my mind we should send abroad men who are bound to succeed,
+men who never forget that from their behaviour the Mother Country will
+be appraised. Argentina will embrace and reward them, but she will spurn
+and despise the dissolute and drunken.
+
+The advice I would give to all those thinking of trying Argentina as a
+field for agricultural work is to remember that to be successful one
+must begin at the bottom, the harder the school the better will be the
+result: you cannot detect and correct the faults which militate against
+success unless you have been through the mill. Not long ago I sent a boy
+out to Argentina and painted the first two years of learning in the new
+country in rather lurid colours. I explained and dwelt on the
+hardships--indeed, I described it as "a dog's life." Within a year, the
+lad wrote home to his parents and mentioned all that I had told him, but
+finished up by saying, "There's plenty of 'life' about it, but not much
+'dog.'" The truth is that the boy had accepted things as they came along
+and had adapted himself to his surroundings, and, I predict, he will
+never regret having left his home, where opportunities were cramped by
+small surroundings, for the wider field of Argentina.
+
+A great many Englishmen resident in Argentina, whose sons are looking
+forward to finding their life's work in that country, send their boys
+home to England to be educated. Far be it from me to deprecate the
+training acquired by English public school life, but it might well be
+worth while to consider the other phase. The boy who has had his
+schooling in Argentina and goes through his training and passes into one
+of their Universities will have to his credit something which cannot be
+bought by money or influence by boys straight out from home. He will
+have been a fellow student, and worked shoulder to shoulder with men who
+will in due time occupy positions of power and influence, and it is just
+as well to weigh out these things before deciding where to educate your
+boy. A boy born in Argentina, whatever the nationality of his parents
+may be, is by Argentine law an Argentine subject, and should be brought
+up to appreciate that he is liable to be called upon to go through a
+military course: the Argentine boy, who has had just as gentle an
+upbringing as the English boy, is compelled to serve his time in the
+army if called upon, and generally the discipline engendered by this
+training has not only been good for him, but is a distinctly valuable
+asset to the country, and the English boy, as well as a boy of any other
+parentage born in the country, will be obliged to go through this
+military training if required.
+
+I venture to think that were England to adopt compulsory military
+service in some shape or form, we should hear a great deal less of the
+unemployed and "don't-want-work" demonstrations.
+
+To attempt to give a picture of Argentine life is impossible in the
+short time at my disposal. Imagine to yourself, if you can, a country of
+1,212,600 square miles whose borders extend from well within the Tropics
+to away down south to the everlasting snows, embracing all kinds of
+lands, from the very richest of soils to ice-capped and rocky peaks, and
+you must admit that to attempt to describe the various conditions of
+life therein is wellnigh impossible. Life is much what the surrounding
+conditions make it--on the extreme edge of cultivation it is distinctly
+rough, on the inner camps refinement steps in, and in the cities you
+will find just what society you wish. Amongst the cosmopolitan
+population of Buenos Aires there are many men and women of the highest
+culture and education.
+
+There are many Argentines, who stand out prominently from the throng of
+busy pleasure-seekers, who are devoting their lives to improving the
+surroundings of those less fortunate fellow-creatures who have fallen
+upon the thorny path, and whose portion is often the cup of bitterness.
+Indeed, I have ever found the Argentine desirous of helping those who
+seek advice and assistance; but he spurns the foreigner who degrades
+himself and his country by acts of folly which would not be permitted in
+his native land.
+
+Englishmen often fall into the great error of keeping themselves to
+themselves. Possibly this trait is engendered from birth and training by
+our insular position, but it is a great pity to carry it too far, for
+the Argentine people do appreciate the thoroughness of our countrymen,
+and are ready to welcome the right sort. We have taught the Argentines
+many of our national sports and games, and they have entered into them
+with such thoroughness that the teachers have often had to admit that
+the pupil has proved better than the master.
+
+Travelling has become an integral part of the education of the Argentine
+family to-day, and it is quite general to find young children speaking
+fluently four or five languages.
+
+I could wish that those who have Argentine friends would insist upon
+their seeing, when in this country, some of the Englishman's home
+surroundings, for hotel life, theatres, dinners, and music-halls are all
+very well in their way, but to see the real inwardness of English life
+you must follow the Englishman to his country home. My experience is
+that the Argentine will always refuse an invitation to your home at
+first, because of the trouble which he believes you will be put to, but
+don't take "no" for an answer; simply make him come, and he will thank
+you afterwards for his experience of English home life.
+
+Just a word or two, for fear I have left an impression that Argentina is
+the El Dorado which lies beyond the seas. There are such things as
+locusts, floods, droughts, and frosts in that country.
+
+The first of these--locusts--are indeed a plague which to-day it seems
+almost impossible to annihilate, for I have little faith in man's
+attempts effectually to stop or decrease this pestilence; on the other
+hand, Nature always seems to be on the alert to prevent an overthrow of
+the balance of things. Those who have spent their lives in the River
+Plate district have seen this appalling plague crushed by means which
+Nature, in her own good time, has thought fit to use.
+
+With regard to floods and droughts, these can, at least, be modified by
+men, and means are now being adopted to conserve the floods and render
+their waters available in time of drought.
+
+From frosts we seem powerless to defend ourselves, and it is only those
+whose work is in close touch with the growing and handling of crops who
+can fully appreciate the damage done by late frosts.
+
+No country is free from drawbacks of some sort or another, and these
+troubles which I have just mentioned will not prevent the forward march
+of progress in Argentina.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[A] These figures are approximate
+
+[B] The dollar referred to throughout this paper is the Argentine paper
+dollar, which since 1899 has had a fixed value, and is worth
+approximately 1s. 9d. Previous to that date its value fluctuated
+considerably.
+
+[C] A list of the other Colonies and Foreign Countries which largely
+contributed to this total will be found on the following page.
+
+[D] The other colonies and foreign countries which largely contributed
+to the totals mentioned are as follows:--
+
+DENMARK--Barley L22,708 Meat 5,988,573
+
+ROUMANIA--Corn, etc. L2,564,538 Meat nil.
+
+TURKEY (including CRETE)--Corn, etc L1,383,971 Meat nil.
+
+TURKEY, ASIATIC--Corn, etc. L1,344,322 Meat nil.
+
+CHILI--Corn, etc L1,099,660 Meat 10,682
+
+BRITISH INDIA--Corn, etc L2,226,668 Meat nil.
+
+NEW ZEALAND--Corn, etc L30,585 Meat 4,168,649
+
+
+
+
+HISTORY OF THE SANTA FE LAND COMPANY, LIMITED.
+
+In the years 1881 and 1882, Messrs. C. de Murrieta & Co. acquired a
+block of land from the Government of the Province of Santa Fe, and in
+December, 1882, sold one undivided half-share thereof to Messrs. Kohn,
+Reinach & Co. Messrs. Murrieta & Co. and Messrs. Kohn, Reinach & Co.,
+having decided to develop the said lands, formed the Santa Fe Land
+Company, and the prospectus appeared in July, 1883.
+
+The area sold to the new Company was said to comprise about 650 Spanish
+leagues, or 4,336,150 English acres, and the price to be paid to the
+vendors was L1,050 per league.
+
+In order to provide a port of shipment on the Rio Parana the Company
+bought a further lot of 323 acres in the Colony of Romang.
+
+In addition to the original block of land, the Company has since bought
+the following areas:--
+
+The estancia of La Barrancosa, 10,801 hectareas, say      26,678
+
+The estancia of Santa Catalina, 4,049 hectareas, say      10,002
+
+A strip of land at Guaycuru on the eastern boundary
+of the Company's forest lands, 1,636 hectareas, say        4,041
+
+A piece of land at Venado Tuerto, 37 hectareas, say           91
+
+A piece of land at Arrufo, 100 hectareas, say                247
+
+A piece of land at Tostado, 50 hectareas, say                123
+
+                                                          41,182
+
+Since the beginning of the Company the total area of land sold has
+amounted to 709,549 acres (up to 30th June, 1910). It is calculated
+that the land comprised in the Bazan claim, to which reference is made
+later on, measures 582,914 acres. Upon this supposition the Company now
+owns 3,044,100 acres.
+
+The original price paid for the Company's lands worked out at about 3s.
+an acre.
+
+The original capital of the Company was L875,000, of which over L675,566
+was paid to the vendors, leaving a balance of L199,434 to meet the
+preliminary expenses and the initial cost of opening up the new
+properties. After some years it was found necessary to write off a
+portion of the capital, and accordingly, in 1897, the Company's lands
+were re-valued at approximately 2s. 9d. an acre.
+
+The present Directors of the Company are:--
+
+Mr. CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE (_Chairman_).
+Mr. IVOR BEVAN.
+Mr. GORDON H. BROWN.
+LORD HAWKE.
+Mr. LOUIS H. KIEK.
+Mr. T.E. PRESTON.
+Capt. The Hon. F.C. STANLEY.
+
+The London Office is at 779, Salisbury House, Finsbury Circus, London,
+E.C., and the Secretary of the Company is Mr. David Simpson. The Head
+Office in the Argentine is at 761, Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires, and
+the following are the principal officers of the Company in Argentina:--
+
+Mr. HUGH M. RATTRAY (_General Manager_).
+Mr. W.B. WHIGHAM (_Manager of the Cattle
+and Lands Department at Sun Cristobal_).
+Mr. R.N. LAND (_Manager at Santa Catalina_).
+Mr. T. SCOTT ROBSON (_Manager at La Barrancosa_).
+Mr. G.L.C. GITTINS (_Acting Manager of the Woods Department_).
+
+
+
+SHARE CAPITAL.
+
+The original shares of the Company were L10 each. It was decided in 1897
+to reduce them to L7 fully paid, which placed the capital at L612,500.
+Shortly afterwards each L7 share was converted into seven shares of L1
+each.
+
+In 1906 the shareholders authorised the creation of L200,000 of fresh
+capital, which was issued to them in two blocks of L154,000 in 1906 and
+L46,000 in 1907.
+
+Fresh capital was authorised in 1908, viz., L187,500, of which L161,608
+was issued in 1909, and further lots have since been issued, bringing
+the total amount of authorised capital to L1,000,000, and of issued
+capital at 30th June, 1910, to L982,347.
+
+An issue of L50,000 Six per Cent. Debentures was made in January, 1904;
+and the whole amount was redeemed on the 1st July, 1909.
+
+
+BAZAN LANDS.
+
+Part of the area sold to the Company consisted of a block of
+approximately 88 Spanish leagues, or 530,000 English acres, which became
+the subject of negotiations and lawsuits between this Company, the
+Provincial Government of Santa Fe, and other parties, lasting for more
+than twenty-five years. The area in question lay to the West of the Rio
+Salado, and, at the time when this Company was formed, was supposed to
+be included in the Province of Santa Fe. Soon afterwards the Province of
+Santiago del Estero put forward a claim to the lands on the ground that
+the boundaries of that Province extended eastwards to the Rio Salado,
+and it therefore disputed the right of the Province of Santa Fe to sell
+the lands to Messrs. Murrieta & Co. in 1882.
+
+By an Agreement with the Government of the Province of Santa Fe, the
+Santa Fe Land Company took proceedings in the Supreme Courts of the
+Province to establish its rights to the land in dispute on the
+understanding that if the Company failed to establish its claim, the
+Government of the Province of Santa Fe would indemnify it for its loss.
+In the result the Company was evicted from the lands, and entered into
+negotiations with the Government of the Province of Santa Fe for
+indemnification. These negotiations went on for some years without
+coming to any practical conclusion, and at last the Company commenced a
+lawsuit against the Province and won it. After further delays and
+negotiations the Government agreed to issue bonds in respect of the
+Company's claim, and, in July, 1909, the Company agreed to accept
+$3,212,000 paper Bonds of the Province, carrying interest at 3-1/2 per
+cent., with an amortisation of 1/2 per cent., the coupons being
+available for payment of land tax. The Government further undertook to
+ratify the original titles of the Company, and to make a survey at the
+joint expense of both parties, for the purpose of ascertaining the exact
+area comprised in the original transfer. Any lands found to be in excess
+were to be paid for by the Company to the Government at the rate of
+$13.50, paper, per hectarea (about 8s. an acre). The price of such
+excess lands was to be recouped by the Government from the Bonds issued
+to the Company, and the Government retained $712,000 Bonds for this
+purpose, pending the result of the survey.
+
+[Illustration: _Cattle Train on Central Argentine Railway, bringing
+Cattle to Barrancosa._]
+
+
+RAILWAY COMMUNICATION.
+
+At the time of the formation of the Company, the nearest railway was
+that belonging to the Central Argentine Railway, and the nearest
+railway station was Rosario, but some years later, the lines now
+belonging to the French Railway Company of the Province of Santa Fe were
+laid between Santa Fe and San Cristobal. Subsequently the Central Norte
+Railway, which stretches northwards from San Cristobal to Tucuman, was
+built by the National Government, and in 1907, the National Government
+built a line from Santa Fe to San Cristobal _via_ San Justo.
+
+The Company have built a railway from a point north of Vera running into
+their forests, and extend it from time to time as the development of the
+wood industry demands. They further own a line from Margarita to La
+Gallareta, where the extract factory of the Compania Tanin de Santa Fe
+is situated. The Company propose to build a railway from San Cristobal
+to penetrate to their northern properties, and have applied to the
+Argentine National Government for a railway concession in connection
+therewith.
+
+
+ADMINISTRATION.
+
+After various changes of centre the administration offices of the
+Company were, in the year 1902, divided between San Cristobal for the
+cattle and lands department, and Vera for the woods department, but, in
+1906, the woods department was placed under the supervision of the
+General Manager of the Company, who lived at San Cristobal, and, in
+1908, the central offices were moved from San Cristobal to Buenos Aires.
+Through the latter office all the work of the Company in Argentina
+passes on to the London office, the managers at San Cristobal, Vera,
+Santa Catalina, and La Barrancosa, having to concern themselves only
+with the technical and administrative work carried on under them
+respectively.
+
+
+COMPANY'S BUSINESS.
+
+The Company's business has been mainly divided into three branches,
+viz.: (1) land sales and rentals; (2) cattle industry, and (3) timber
+trade.
+
+The first two branches are conducted from San Cristobal, situated at the
+S.W. corner of the Company's original lands, and for many years the site
+of the central offices of the Company in Argentina, whilst the timber
+trade is conducted from Vera.
+
+
+SAN CRISTOBAL DEPARTMENT.
+
+A township was started at San Cristobal in 1884, and now numbers 4,500
+persons.
+
+The Administration House and other buildings for the use of the General
+Manager and Staff of the Cattle and Lands Department were erected about
+three miles from the town, and the whole now forms a large and handsome
+establishment, equipped with the most modern requisites for carrying on
+the work of the estancia.
+
+The cattle lands have been divided up into sections, which are managed
+by officials of the Company, under the control of the administration at
+San Cristobal. The office there and the offices on the various sections
+have recently been connected up by telephone. These sections are
+Polvareda, Michelot, Los Moyes, and Lucero (which lie to the North and
+North-East of San Cristobal), and Las Chunas, which forms the
+North-Western corner of the Company's lands.
+
+[Illustration: _Loading Wheat at Rosario from the "Barranca."_]
+
+[Illustration: _San Cristobal Estancia House._]
+
+
+SANTA CATALINA AND LA BARRANCOSA.
+
+In January, 1897, the Company rented the estancia of Santa Catalina,
+which is situated about five miles from Los Cardos on the Central
+Argentine Railway and about 150 miles South of San Cristobal. Here the
+stock which was brought down from San Cristobal was fattened before
+passing on to the markets. At the same time the Company continued the
+sowing of alfalfa which had been begun by the proprietor, and ultimately
+decided to buy the camp and use it as an establishment for breeding fine
+stock. The terms of the purchase were that the price should be paid by
+way of an annuity, payable during the joint lifetime of the owner and
+his wife. In 1909 this method of payment was compounded and satisfied in
+full by an allotment of shares of the Company.
+
+The practice has been that the male calves born on this estancia should
+be sent North to the general herds kept at San Cristobal and the
+adjoining sections, and that the progeny of these animals should in turn
+be sold as fat cattle.
+
+To facilitate this business the Company found it necessary to acquire a
+camp specially adapted for fattening purposes in the Southern part of
+the Province, so that they might be brought into closer touch with the
+markets of Rosario and Buenos Aires. They accordingly bought the
+estancia La Barrancosa in 1906, and have been constantly increasing the
+area there under alfalfa, equipping it with a full complement of wells
+and fencing. This estancia lies half way between the towns of San Isabel
+and Venado Tuerto, from the latter of which it is distant about sixteen
+miles. But, during the year 1909, a new broad-gauge railway line was
+opened, leading from Rosario to Bahia Blanca. It passes right through
+the estancia, and by means of a station just outside the boundary the
+Company have fresh means of despatching their animals to Rosario.
+
+
+VERA DEPARTMENT.
+
+The headquarters of the Woods Department is situated about eight miles
+N.W. of the town of Vera, which stands at kilometre 250 north of the
+City of Santa Fe on the line of the French Railway Company leading from
+Santa Fe to Resistencia. Sawmills and offices were built, which involved
+the presence of a considerable number of work-people, for whom houses
+had to be provided. Consequently, a small village has grown up at the
+place.
+
+A branch railway was begun in 1905, at a point 13 kilometres north of
+Vera town, on the French Railway, to penetrate westwards into the
+Company's forests, and has been extended to a point called Olmos, lying
+30 miles away. Along the line two or three hamlets have sprung up, where
+people connected with the wood industry reside, as well as the Company's
+officials who control the timber in the neighbourhood.
+
+In 1904 the Company entered into an agreement with Messrs. Albert and
+Charles Harteneck, Frederick and Charles Portalis, and Hermann Renner,
+to bring out a Company to work a factory for the manufacture of tannin
+extract from the wood of the Quebracho Colorado tree, and this factory
+was ultimately built within the Company's properties at a place called
+La Gallareta, which is situated 17 kilometres north-west of the Station
+of Margarita on the French Railway line. The Santa Fe Land Company have
+also built a branch line from Margarita to this tannin factory.
+
+[Illustration: _Watering-Place at Barrancosa._]
+
+[Illustration: _Wood on the Company's Own Line ready for Loading._]
+
+THE FOLLOWING TABLE SHOWS THE FINANCIAL POSITION OF THE COMPANY FROM
+1898 TO THE PRESENT TIME.
+
+Year       Share Capital.   Deben- Profit. Loss.  Placed   Balance   Dividend
+ending.                     tures                   to     Forward. (percent.)
+          Autho-   Issued   6 per cent.           Reserve.
+          rised.   and fully
+                   paid.
+             L        L       L       L       L     L         L
+30th June,
+" 1898    612,500  612,500   ...       420   ...    ...   Cr.   420    ...
+" 1899    612,500  612,500   ...     ...    1,650   ...   Dr. 1,230    ...
+" 1900    612,500  612,500   ...    11,757   ...    ...   Cr. 2,870   1-1/4
+" 1901    612,500  612,500   ...     9,854   ...   2,000  "   3,068   1-1/4
+" 1902    612,500  612,500   ...    20,746   ...  10,000  "   6,158   1-1/4
+" 1903    612,500  612,500   ...    23,988   ...  10,000  "   7,896   2
+" 1904    612,500  612,500  50,000  28,332   ...   6,000  "   8,790   3-1/2
+" 1905    612,500  612,500  50,000  36,483   ...   6,000  "   8,648   5
+" 1906    812,500  612,500  50,000  48,183   ...   6,000  "  11,018   6-1/2
+" 1907    812,500  766,500  50,000  82,700   ...  12,000  "  20,398   8
+" 1908  1,000,000  812,500  50,000  91,463   ... 86,628[E] " 20,611  10
+" 1909  1,000,000  812,500  50,000 115,375   ...  20,000  "  22,549  10 and
+                                                                  Bonus of 1-1/2
+
+[Illustration: _Loading Timber at Wayside Station._]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[E] Including L76,623 from Share Premiums.
+
+
+
+
+
+THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA.
+
+
+When one goes to a foreign country, and more especially when he intends
+to settle there with the idea of making a fortune, he naturally turns
+his attention to the value of the land, as from this he draws his views
+of the prosperity of the country. Now, twenty-five years ago the
+Argentine had comparatively very few railways; consequently, the lands
+at any long distance from Buenos Aires (the capital) were at a very low
+value. The province of Buenos Aires, the largest in the country, has
+always been the most populated, and its lands have always commanded the
+highest prices, and these have risen tremendously, but not so much of
+late years in proportion as land in the northern provinces. During the
+years 1885, 1886, 1887, and 1888, there was a great boom in land.
+Foreigners were pouring in, bringing capital; great confidence was put
+by foreign capitalists in the country, several railways had run out new
+branches, new railways were built, new banks were opened, and a very
+large extent of land was opened up and cultivated, and put under wheat
+and linseed, harvests were good and money was flowing into the country.
+Then came a very bad year, 1889; the harvest was practically lost owing
+to the heavy and continuous rains which fell from December till July
+with hardly a clear day. This, together with a bad government and the
+revolution of 1890, created a great panic and a tremendous slump in all
+land, from which it took a long time to recover. Where people had bought
+camps and mortgaged them, which was the general thing to do in those
+days, the mortgagees foreclosed, and, when the camps were auctioned
+off, they did not fetch half what the properties had been bought for in
+the first instance, some four or five years previously. This, naturally,
+had a serious effect on the credit, soundness, and finances of the
+country, but really, the crisis was not felt until some three or four
+years after, and it was 1896 and 1897 which were very serious years for
+the country.
+
+To give one an idea of the value of land in four or five of the
+principal provinces of the country, I must begin with the Queen
+Province, as it is called, viz., Buenos Aires. In 1885, property in the
+city centre was worth 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. a yard, whereas to-day it has
+been sold up to L200 sterling per yard, while suburban lots of 20 yards
+by 60 yards realised L5 and to-day are fetching L150, and camp lands
+have risen from L10,000, to L100,000 the square league. Of course this
+is within a radius of 30 to 50 leagues of the city; lands away to the
+south and west may yet be bought at L10,000, and, still further south
+towards Neuquen and the far Pampa, at L2,000 per square league. The
+province of Buenos Aires is not considered good for alfalfa growing, but
+has good natural grass camps.
+
+The province of Santa Fe is a large province, extending from the
+northern boundary of the province of Buenos Aires to Santiago del
+Estero, and contains what is known as the Gran Chaco. The southern
+portion of this province is largely dedicated to the production of
+wheat, linseed, and maize, for which it is admirably adapted. There are
+also large estancias carrying vast herds of cattle, sheep, and horses,
+while the northern portion has vast forests of very fine and valuable
+timber.
+
+[Illustration: _Wheat ready for Loading at Station on Central Argentine
+Railway._]
+
+The first part of this province to be developed was the country around
+Rosario, the large port on the River Parana, where ocean-going steamers
+call. This, together with good railway accommodation in all directions
+combined with excellent land in the district, facilitates the
+cultivation of cereals on a very large scale. Property in Rosario itself
+is very valuable, and from L30 to L50 a yard is a common figure. In the
+immediate district of Rosario land is rarely sold in large areas, but
+may be calculated at L20 an acre, whilst 40 leagues further north it is
+to-day worth L50,000 a league. I know of one estancia of one league
+which was bought in 1885 for L2,000, resold, after being sown down in
+alfalfa and divided into paddocks, without further improvements, at
+L12,000 (this was in 1903), and again sold in 1909, certainly with
+further improvements as regards watering arrangements and more paddocks,
+house, and sheds, etc., in fact, a fair model estancia in good working
+order, for L60,000. Land on the south-west of Rosario, and about 40
+leagues distant, has in the twenty-five years risen from L2,000 a league
+to L40,000 a league. This is for virgin camp, and to-day in these
+districts the average price can be stated at from L30,000 to L40,000 per
+league, yet 300 miles further north land--good land--can be had at from
+L4,000 to L6,000 per league.
+
+The next province, Cordoba, is one of the most hilly in the country, and
+has been one of the most developed during latter years. Some twenty
+years ago this was almost considered a desert, where one was told
+nothing would grow and cattle could not live. To-day it is one of the
+most prosperous; wheat and linseed are great products here, while
+alfalfa, when carefully treated, that is, not overstocked, lives for
+ever on account of the sandy soil, and water being so near the surface.
+These lands twenty years ago were valued at about L500 to L600 per
+league, while to-day it is difficult to acquire land under cultivation
+or alfalfa at less than L30,000 per league. In the Northern part of this
+province are very valuable stone quarries.
+
+Another province that is advancing very fast is that of San Luis. Here,
+again, it has been found that alfalfa is at home, and thrives
+splendidly. This, again, is a very sandy soil, and consequently is much
+sought after, but this land has not yet touched the value of that in the
+provinces already mentioned; it will not stand so much cropping, and
+will not carry the same amount of stock, but still the average price for
+virgin camp is from L5,000 to L10,000 per league. In this province there
+is a very large extent of very poor land, covered with a small shrub,
+which is not worth more than L2,000 a league.
+
+Mendoza is a more northerly province, and mostly dedicated to the grape
+and wine industry, while a lot of fruit is also exported from there.
+Wine is made in very large quantities, and a lot of very good quality.
+The value of land varies very much. The greater portion is worth at
+present very little. The great point is to get the water concessions for
+irrigating; without irrigation the land is useless. A good vineyard in
+its prime, with good irrigation rights, is worth as much as from L40 to
+L50 per acre, while the ordinary camp land is at about 7s. per acre.
+
+[Illustration: _The Maker of Land Values._]
+
+
+
+
+REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+The Argentine Republic, like all hot countries, is subject to very great
+hurricanes and storms. They occur most frequently in the spring and
+summer, when very sudden changes of temperature take place. The
+thermometer has often been known to drop 25 degrees within half an hour.
+
+A great deal of damage is always caused, trees which have taken years of
+care and trouble are ruthlessly uprooted, roofs blown off, windmills
+blown down, haystacks turned over, and valuable animals struck by
+lightning. The terrible closeness and stillness which generally precede
+a "tormenta" are certain forerunners of bad weather and storms. A
+terrible hailstorm which took place some time ago will always be
+remembered by its spectators. The usual signs of it were evident; the
+atmosphere had become very close and it had been extremely hot for some
+hours before. Though only about 4 p.m., it got peculiarly dark and a
+strong gale began to blow, and distant sounds of thunder were heard. A
+sudden lull came, which meant that the storm was about to break; sheets
+of lightning of every description were followed by deafening peals of
+thunder, which made man and beast tremble. Then there came a downfall of
+huge hailstones; they were just like big lumps of jagged ice; some of
+them measured about six to eight inches round and weighed over half a
+pound. This storm did a fearful lot of harm; not a leaf was left on a
+single tree, and hundreds of birds lay dead all around. Though very
+violent, this hailstorm did not last more than ten minutes, in which
+time an incalculable amount of destruction took place.
+
+In September, 1909, a very bad cyclone suddenly came on us. The sky
+turned black and blacker, and the clouds looked horribly wicked.
+Suddenly a terrific gale got up, which caused every window and door to
+rattle in a most alarming manner, though they had all been as well
+secured as possible. The dust seemed to filter in just the same, and in
+five minutes the house was an inch thick in it. We heard a loud bang and
+then another over our heads, and on looking out of a window we saw the
+roof of one of the outer buildings lying on the ground; part of it had
+been blown over our house and had carried away the chimney, a big iron
+one, on its way. We were told afterwards that the cook had had to use
+all her force against the kitchen window to keep it from bursting open,
+as, if the wind had got in, it would have carried away that roof as
+well. This hurricane lasted for about an hour and a-half; as soon as it
+had abated somewhat we went out to see the result. Everywhere reigned
+havoc and confusion, the whole place looked an old ruin, brick-bats,
+tiles, broken branches, loose sheets of corrugated iron lying all
+around; three roofs had been blown away, several windmills knocked down
+and carried 100 yards away, and lovely old trees had been completely
+uprooted.
+
+The natives, frightened of remaining in their own quarters, had, in
+their terror, deserted them and taken refuge, with their wives and
+children, in the open camp, where they fondly imagined they were safer.
+Out in the camp the roofs of most of the "puestos," or huts, had been
+also carried away, leaving the occupants exposed to the cold rains and
+winds which followed.
+
+A peculiar feature of this storm was that it was not at all general; at
+the neighbouring "estancias" it was not felt at all, and some of the
+"peons," who were riding in the camp at the time, said they could see
+this whirlwind coming a long way off at a tremendous rate and that it
+looked like a column of red smoke; they could not feel the effects of
+the wind either, although they were not more than half a mile away.
+
+This storm was followed by very heavy rains which lasted for about ten
+days, during which our house was flooded, as the wind had lifted the
+tiles and the rain was driven in through every possible place.
+
+Another time, when driving home from the town of Vernado Tuerto, we were
+caught in a very bad dust storm. Things became so black that we could
+not see where we were going, so we had to halt. The wind was so strong
+that the men had to get out of the carriage, which was a heavy
+covered-in waggonette, and hold the wheels down to prevent it from being
+overturned. We all looked like seaside niggers, as the dust and rain
+falling at once came down like mud on us all. One gets quite hardened to
+these severe storms. On one occasion a very rough wind began to blow,
+but, as it was a steady gale, no one took particular notice of it. It
+was after dinner, and everybody was busy playing cards. The wind made
+such a deafening noise that you could hardly hear yourself speak;
+presently some of the occupants of the house thought they would have a
+look outside to see if things were all right; when they were surprised
+to see an outer building, used for stores and machinery, roofless, and
+the roof nowhere to be seen; it was discovered afterwards on the top of
+their own house, and they had never heard it happen.
+
+The climate in the Argentine is very variable; we have great extremes of
+heat and cold. It is healthy as a rule, except in the swampy districts
+or during a very wet season, when a great many residents suffer from
+rheumatism.
+
+People talk about the sudden changes of English weather, but we are
+treated just the same; one day it will be brilliantly hot and fine, and
+another day cold and miserable.
+
+One part of the country or another is generally suffering from drought,
+when in another part they are being flooded out.
+
+In the winter there is much more sunshine than there is in England; in
+the early morning it is bitterly cold, at noon on a fine day it is
+blazing hot, and then, as soon as the sun goes in, it freezes hard.
+
+In the summer, of course, the heat is very great, but, as it is
+generally dry, it is quite healthy.
+
+
+
+
+SOME EXPERIENCES OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS.
+
+I came out with my brother on a tramp steamer from Penarth. We took
+thirty-one days. However, time passed fairly quickly, chipping off rust
+and painting the decks, after we got over our sickness.
+
+Rain fell heavily as we landed at Buenos Aires, two typical _gringos_
+(greenhorns), not knowing a word of Spanish. I went to a first-class
+hotel, whose proprietor I had met in England. My first attempt to speak
+Spanish was in a tram. I asked the conductor to stop; getting out I
+said, "Mucha grasa" (much fat), instead of "muchas gracias" (many
+thanks)--then called the man a fool for laughing.
+
+We stopped in Buenos Aires a week and our bill came into hundreds of
+dollars, which took a big slice off our small means.
+
+We then went to an estancia (farm) in the Province of Cordoba. The
+estancia was fifty-one miles square, owned by an Argentine family. The
+manager was a North-American, well known in camp life.
+
+The estancia consisted of three sections, one where I went, another
+where my brother was, and the other the headquarters.
+
+I was under a young Scotchman. The camp was fifteen miles, with 3,000
+cows, 2,000 steers, and 500 mares. There was my companion, one peon
+(man), a boy, and myself. My house was made of mud walls and floor, a
+zinc roof, with a little straw. It was cool in summer, but very cold in
+winter. There was one room for ourselves, where we slept and ate, one
+for the cook (when we had one), and a kitchen. Under my bed I had a
+snake's hole; a long black snake came out in the night, and, on hearing
+a sound, would go back. I did everything to kill it, but with no
+success. Also I had two kittens which slept in my bed. One night I felt
+something soft by my feet. I thought it was the kittens, but, putting my
+hand down, I found my feet covered with blood. I jumped out of bed, and
+found a young hare half eaten and my sheets covered with blood.
+
+The first thing I had to do was to skin a cow, and it made me feel very
+uncomfortable to look at the horrid sight. The next day I was sent to
+fetch the fat from a dead cow. When I got there I could not see any fat
+and wondered what it was. I saw the intestines and carried them bodily
+on my new recado (native saddle). My horse got excited and I arrived
+dead beat. I told my companion I had the fat: then he burst out laughing
+and said I had got the intestines. Needless to say my recado was the
+worse for wear.
+
+The food was different from what I was used to, and I felt ill for a
+time.
+
+In the summer I was up at between three and four, having "mate-cocido"
+(cooked Paraguayan tea--the native drink) with a hard biscuit; at
+eleven, breakfast of puchero (big pieces of meat boiled in a pot), then
+maize with milk and a biscuit. Sometimes tea at four, but very seldom;
+supper consisted of an asado and mate at seven or eight o'clock.
+
+I had charge of two valuable stallions--they had a stable of mud and
+straw.
+
+At branding time the capataz (foreman) came up with his men for a week.
+Up before three o'clock, quite dark, we branded 6,000 calves, and I
+enjoyed it.
+
+The Boss seldom came; when he did, his trap would be sure to run over a
+piece of wire, and then we heard of it; nothing missed him.
+
+Then our cook began stealing provisions from the store box. We changed
+the locks three times, and each time she bought a key to the same. One
+night I asked her for some coffee. She said there was none. I could see
+she had some in a small bag, and I went to fetch it. She took up a knife
+and threatened me. I soon twisted the knife from her. Our food was bad,
+my companion was careless, and frightened of her. One day he had a row,
+and she got the sack, using strong language. We then did our own cooking
+for eight months: the first one home from camp had to begin cooking.
+
+The meat we got was often green and bitter. All the time we had puchero
+and asado, and an occasional ostrich egg.
+
+Ostriches swarmed everywhere, and it was good sport lassoing them. I
+found one nest with fifty eggs, laid by different birds. My cooking was
+rather a failure at first, the smoke was so thick we could not see each
+other. I was told to cook maize for dinner. I made a big fire, and
+cooked for three hours, and was then told I had the stallions' maize.
+Another time it was very dark; our candles, made of old clothes and
+grease, had run out. I had made some good soup, and put the pot near the
+table, then, walking by, put my foot in it: the hot grease made me hop,
+and took the skin off my foot. Our table was an old greasy box; we had
+no plates, nor forks, just a big knife. Sometimes, coming in very tired
+from a hard day, we had no strength to chop wood and make a fire; we
+just went to bed. Many days we only had an asado and mate. Mate I am
+very fond of--it is so refreshing and sustaining.
+
+My brother was only eight miles away: his section was under alfalfa, and
+he had a comfortable house. One dark night, going home from his place, I
+followed a fence until I came to a cross fence. I was going slowly,
+when, all of a sudden, my horse stopped dead, and I shot over the fence,
+the bridle and halter came off, and away went my horse, leaving me to
+continue five miles on foot.
+
+Bizcachas (like a big badger) were numerous. One day we dug a two-metre
+hole, and next day found eight live ones. They have teeth one and a-half
+inches long.
+
+Our nearest village was eighteen miles away, where I met some English
+friends, and played tennis or had some other amusement. I used to start
+back at 2.30 a.m. to be in time for work. One night I had to cross a big
+field, without a path or fence for a guide. It was dark, and lightning
+hard. I made for a light, which I thought was the house. Going for some
+time, I came to a fence--I was lost. I unsaddled and lay down to sleep,
+the rain was pouring hard, when I heard a donkey braying, so I shouted,
+and was answered by a man in a puesto (out-station). The light I saw was
+a village twelve miles away.
+
+My companion was very slack, and the patrons came up and sacked him.
+
+Then I went to the estancia house for a month, breaking in colts for
+driving. I felt rather sad at leaving my rough work. It was hard work,
+but I never had better health.
+
+My Boss then earned $15 per month, and his wife cooked for the men. Now
+he is one of the richest men in the country.
+
+There was no opening there, so the Boss sent me to a New Zealander who
+had half a league of camp, all fine stock, good alfalfa and splendid
+water. He had a big house and I expected I would live well. My first
+work was to dig up locusts' eggs for a week under a hot sun, with the
+ground very hard. The Boss was a man of forty-two, very red-faced and
+extremely rich, but as mean as possible.
+
+Our meals took about six to eight minutes, fast eating; he would watch
+every mouthful. At tea he would take a lot of milk and give me a little;
+he finished soon, while I burnt my throat. He allowed me a slice of
+biscuit for each meal. His cook only got $10 a month.
+
+In the winter we were in bed by six to seven.
+
+His clothes were a disgrace to any peon. He had native trousers that
+button at the foot, with top boots, no socks, his heel and big toe were
+sticking out, no vest, only a shirt and an old hat, where the grease of
+many years was visible.
+
+He was a splendid worker--I have not seen a better one. We used to catch
+locusts in a big zinc box pulled by two horses; the locusts were put
+into sacks, and after being left standing for four days, were carted to
+the village, where he got 10 cents a kilo. The smell in carting these
+dead locusts was simply terrible. Then I helped pick ten square of
+maize, which at first took a little skin off my hands. At branding time
+we lassoed each calf to cut off the horns. I had to sit on their necks,
+and got smothered in the face with hot blood. The Boss was very proud
+because his monthly account only came to $12 for four of us: biscuits,
+sugar, tea, and other things. He sent his clothes once in three months
+to be washed. He had few friends, no one ever came to visit him, and
+every Sunday he shut himself in his room. He bought the place for
+$90,000 and sold it for over double. He was a thorough campman, but so
+mean. One cold winter 500 cows died of starvation; rather than sell them
+at a low price he let them starve. The last thing he said was, he was
+"going to New Zealand to marry an ugly lady, but she has plenty of
+money." His countrymen called him a disgrace to his country and the
+meanest in the Argentine.
+
+Then a kind friend found me a place on a well-known estancia in the same
+province. The manager, the second-manager, and the book-keeper were all
+Irish, born in the country. I had a good horse, which I rode fifty miles
+to the estancia.
+
+The second told me to have my food with the peons (men), which was
+rather disheartening. I tried to eat in the kitchen, but the French cook
+kicked me out, and for ten months I fed with the peons; they were very
+good fellows. The second and the book-keeper had meals together. The
+second-manager did no work: up at half-past eight, he went to the train,
+had a drink at the shop, then came back for dinner, slept until
+tea-time, then went to see the train pass again and have another drink,
+and came back at all hours. He had been there fourteen years and was
+only getting a hundred a month.
+
+The chief work was loading cattle and sheep for the big freezing
+factories. The trucks were rotten. One night we finished at 11 p.m.,
+after a hard day's work, three of us unloaded 300 quebracho posts in
+under three hours. I had a French gardener in my room who did nothing
+else but spit and talk politics.
+
+The Boss took me to learn shearing. I had to shear, gather the wool,
+sort it and pack it up. Each man got five cents a sheep, but it was hard
+work, all done by hand.
+
+Then I cut alfalfa for a fortnight--a nice easy job.
+
+A Catholic priest came to stay for eight days--Mass every day at 7 a.m.
+and 8 p.m., sometimes three a day. No work at all. Everyone had to
+go--the book-keeper did not, so he got the sack. I, as a Protestant,
+went to the sermons, which were very good. It was wonderful; these rough
+campmen went away quite tamed for a time. The last night the Boss got
+married at half-past twelve at night to a native lady. Another time,
+while we were at Mass, someone came to say the gardener was dying--we
+raced down, the priest in front ready to hear his confession, but when
+we got there the gardener was calmly smoking his pipe, greatly
+surprised.
+
+An inspector of locusts stopped all the summer. He did nothing but eat,
+sleep, and drink whisky. We had locust-killing machines of every
+description, but we did not kill ten kilos.
+
+The days I enjoyed were when we started out early to part some animals
+in a herd of over a thousand. At eleven we would have an asado and mate,
+and give our horses a drink, then finish parting, and get home at
+half-past seven. The horses look wrecks, and no good, but they work all
+day--mostly galloping--and are splendid stayers.
+
+The Boss's brother, a very nice man of fifty, married a servant of the
+Boss, a girl of eighteen.
+
+Great excitement is caused by races. The Boss was keen, and the men
+talked of nothing else for days. Every Sunday there are races. Once I
+rode my horse bareback in three races of 200 metres, and won a bottle of
+beer, a packet of tobacco, and a knife.
+
+Then I was put in charge of fine stock. I had ten Durham bulls, two
+thoroughbred stallions, one Pecheron, eight rams and twelve pigs. I had
+a boy under me. I also had to saddle up the Boss's and the Second's
+horses, and harness the traps. Sometimes I had to wait till eleven at
+night, very tired, to unsaddle the Second's horse, as he had been making
+love to the Stationmaster's sister.
+
+The work was very interesting and hard, even on Sundays or feast days,
+watering, cleaning the animals, and curing any foals that were ill.
+
+I then moved to another room near the stable, with a newly arrived
+Italian who knew no Spanish nor English, also an Irishman just arrived.
+They could not speak to each other. The Irishman slept on the floor
+every night, and poured kerosene all over him to keep insects away. One
+day he poisoned five pigs, giving them the dip-water to drink. He had
+few clothes. He would turn them inside out, and often had three pairs of
+trousers and two shirts on.
+
+One day the Boss was out: the men were taming some wild colts in the
+corral. I took French leave and went. I got on five. None had had a
+saddle on before or even been handled. We lassoed them, pulled them down
+and put on the bridle. Then five men held a long rope and one put on the
+native saddle, with stirrups big enough to get your toes in. Then they
+tied a red handkerchief round my head. I mounted gently but quickly.
+Then the rope was taken off and away the colt went as fast as possible,
+with one man on each side to shove you either way, all the time bucking
+and plunging. I did not fall, but one stirrup broke. One laid down and
+would not move. It tried to bite everyone. When they go fast and buck at
+the same time it is very hard to stick on.
+
+On the 25th of May, the great holiday in this country, I went to an
+estancia to see some friends. On my way back we had to cross a deep
+river. The coachman drove across, but one wheel went into a big hole and
+the jerk sent me out on my head, where the wheel passed over my hair,
+missing my head by inches. I was senseless. A crowd of women came and
+began weeping--they thought I was dead--then I was taken in a procession
+to the chemist, who sent me to a hospital, where I found my collar bone
+broken. I did nothing for three weeks.
+
+This estancia is a splendid one for learners, because there is a little
+of everything. Once I had a month with the threshing machine, sleeping
+out with the mosquitoes, and getting meat nearly raw for food; but a lot
+of money can be made from the harvest.
+
+Then, after a few weeks' holiday to England, we came back, and I went
+down south with my brother to sow alfalfa seed. We had a caravan on
+wheels, and learned how to plough and sow. We went to a camp
+race-meeting, where every estancia has its own tent, there is racing all
+day and dancing at night.
+
+I often look back upon these jolly times. Work was exacted with anything
+but kindness, but the life was simple and very healthy, and many
+pleasant reminiscences are talked over when it is my luck to join others
+around the camp fire before falling to sleep with nothing but a
+bullock's head as a pillow and a "recado" as a blanket and the glorious,
+starry sky above one.
+
+
+
+
+THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE.
+
+
+To an outsider, life in the camps or country might be considered very
+slow: the distance between the estancias being so great, the ordinary
+form of social life is quite impossible; for instance, when one goes to
+pay a call on a neighbour, even a first call, it means going for the
+day, starting in the cool of the morning and returning in the evening,
+and so allowing the horses to have a rest. Of course, if everyone had a
+motor-car, this might not be necessary; but as yet they are very few and
+far between. This is no doubt owing to the bad roads; in most districts,
+after a few hours' rain, the roads are flooded, and what is worse still,
+"pantanosa" (thick, sticky mud).
+
+Most estancieros keep open house, and are only too pleased when people
+"drop in," which they do at all times and for any meal, almost without a
+"by your leave." An estancia house has to be very elastic, and ready to
+provide, at a moment's notice, board and lodging for unexpected guests.
+This is quite the nicest way of entertaining one's friends--no fuss of
+preparation, and, more often than not, a very jolly evening of cards,
+music, or games.
+
+It is a delightful country for men, a healthy, open-air life, with
+plenty of hard work and hard riding; each man has from four to six
+horses allowed him for working purposes, and then, as a rule (talking of
+the English mayor-domo), he has two or three polo ponies of his own.
+Sunday is the great day for polo; there is very little time in our busy
+Argentine even for a practice game during the week, so Sunday means a
+merry meeting of friends wherever there is a polo club in the district,
+people going in six or seven leagues (or even more) from one side of
+the town to meet friends who have come an equal distance from the other
+side, a thing they might not do for months if it were not for the polo
+club. Each lady takes her turn in providing tea on these polo Sundays,
+and there is great competition as to who makes the best cakes,
+especially as it often falls to the lady herself to make these luxuries.
+
+Wherever there is a polo club the most exciting event of the year is the
+Spring Race Meeting, two days' racing, often followed by a polo match or
+tournament with neighbouring clubs, and always as many dances as
+possible, as it is the only time in the year when enough girls can be
+collected together; every estancia house has its own party, as many as
+can be crowded in, including friends from Buenos Aires and Rosario, who
+delight in these camp meetings, and she is a proud hostess who can count
+a few girls amongst her party. I may as well add here that girls are
+almost "non est" in the camp, many districts for leagues and leagues
+round not being able to boast of one English girl.
+
+[Illustration: _Tennis Party at Vera_.]
+
+Most clubs hold a Gymkhana Meeting in the Autumn, which makes one more
+excitement in the year: it is a very merry meeting as a rule, with
+always a dance or two if enough girls can be found. During the Winter
+season (from April 1st to September 1st) the shooting is very good in
+most parts, and many good shooting parties are given where there is
+enough game to make it worth while asking one's friends. The bag
+consists of partridges, martinetta (similar to the pheasant) and hares
+(which are not considered worth picking up); when there are a number of
+guns, dogs are not used, but two men on horseback drag a wire through
+the grass (several in a line, if a big party), which forces the birds to
+rise, and the guns walk behind. Peons on horseback, carrying sacks, keep
+close up to them and pick up the birds as they fall, and close on their
+heels comes a big brake, into which are emptied the contents of the
+sacks as they get too heavy. The ladies of the party follow in all sorts
+and conditions of vehicles, cheering on the shooters and dispensing
+much-needed refreshments. A shoot is always followed up by a jolly
+evening, after a hot bath and a good dinner. The men, forgetting how
+tired they are, are quite ready to sing, dance, or play bridge until the
+small hours. Another great event not to be forgotten is the visit of the
+Camp Chaplain: he goes from one district to another holding services,
+every Sunday in a different place. In a well-populated district he would
+hold one about every two months, but to some places, where there are
+next to no English people, he would probably only go about once or twice
+a year. Church Sunday is quite an event, and again gives one an
+opportunity of meeting friends from a distance. The parson is very
+lenient with us as a rule, and does not object to any form of amusement
+in the afternoon, such as polo, tennis, cricket, football, or golf, and
+encourages the young men to come to _Church_ (usually a room hired for
+the occasion) in costumes suitable for such. Our poor Camp Chaplain does
+not have an easy time; distances are so great that more than half his
+time is spent on the train.
+
+[Illustration: _Carnival at Vera_.]
+
+
+
+
+CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+Carnival falls every year during the week before the beginning of Lent.
+It is a general holiday, and much fun and amusement are crammed into the
+few days which precede the dull season of fasting.
+
+Carnival is more observed in camp towns than in the bigger cities, where
+the custom of celebrating it is very much on the wane, and where the law
+forbids water-throwing and other such damp forms of amusement, which are
+winked at by the more lenient authorities in local towns.
+
+It is really quite a pretty sight to see a camp town during carnival.
+The one main street, which does not boast of pavements, and is generally
+a yard deep in dust, is gaily decorated with bunting and festoons. Small
+stands are put up every ten yards or so, in which the "caballeros" take
+up their positions and pelt the "senoritas" with confetti and
+"serpentinas" (blocks of different coloured paper which look like rolls
+of tape about 30 or 50 yards long). The elite of the "pueblo" drive
+round in the procession; ladies, some in the very latest creations, and
+some in beautiful fancy dresses, parade round in flower and ribbon
+bedecked carriages. A prize is generally given to the best decorated
+conveyance, and to the best fancy costume, which causes a lot of
+competition and jealousy amongst the fair sex.
+
+On an estancia, carnival is celebrated in a much more drastic fashion.
+On one place, the giddy members of the household have a very rowdy time
+of it, and make things very lively for the unwary. On one occasion, they
+determined to give the mayor-domo his share of the general drenching
+which he had missed; so when he rode in at midday, after a long and busy
+morning's work in the camp, he was welcomed with a volley of buckets of
+water, which were emptied over him from the top of the house, where the
+delinquents had taken up their advantageous position.
+
+Another time a certain young damsel, a guest in the same house, saw from
+the window her hostess entertaining one of the boys, a fresh arrival
+from England, who had ridden over from a neighbouring estancia. Prompted
+by her daring friends she was induced to take up a jug of water, and
+stealing up behind his chair, emptied the contents of the vessel over
+the visitor's head, and then bolted; the injured party, after recovering
+his self-possession, rose to the occasion and gave chase, and after a
+desperate struggle, and in spite of penitent apologies, she was borne
+off by her captor and deposited in the first tub he happened to see,
+which turned out to be a freshly painted rubbish barrel.
+
+There is not much respecting of persons on these occasions, the girls
+generally combine against the boys, who, as a rule, come off best. The
+most binding promises are made on both sides, who vow not to throw
+anything larger than a "globo" (a small balloon filled with water, which
+bursts when it touches anything solid) or "poms" (leaden squirt full of
+scent); but in the excitement of the fray which follows all is
+forgotten, and buckets of water, the garden hose, and even the ducking
+of some in water troughs, are the final outcome.
+
+The scene after an afternoon or evening's battle is very funny; girls,
+with their hair lying in dripping masses over their faces and shoulders,
+their dresses, generally the oldest of thin cotton ones, clinging
+hopelessly to their wearied forms, present a truly comic sight. When
+they are all tired of strife, they retire by common consent to the
+house, where, after discarding their soaking garments and taking a warm
+bath, they are ready to discuss the glories of the day over a
+much-wanted dinner.
+
+
+
+
+HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+
+
+HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE.
+
+
+In this country a great deal more racing goes on than in Europe, and it
+is not confined to the moneyed classes only. Even the "peones" hold
+their small meetings and match their grass-fed ponies. Estancieros and
+mayor-domos have camp race-meetings once or twice yearly at all the
+larger polo clubs, and at Palermo and Hurlingham every class of society
+in Buenos Aires may be seen on the stands.
+
+At Palmero race-meetings are held frequently, almost weekly in fact, on
+Sunday afternoons; and the stands are generally well filled. On days of
+festival, when there is a special programme, the place is crowded, and
+these occasions correspond, more or less, with the more important
+meetings in England.
+
+The course is of earth, and perfectly flat, so that the only thing which
+interferes with the view is dust. The stands are magnificent and the
+different grades of society are divided by railings, while at the back
+of each may be seen the row of offices of the "Sport," which is the
+betting system of the country.
+
+This consists of tickets, which are sold at a fixed price, with the name
+of one of the entries. After the race there is a great rush to the
+offices, made by those who have bought the winner, to collect their
+winnings, which are the total receipts, minus a small percentage,
+divided by the number of those who bought the winner. In this way a very
+hot favourite will pay very little more than the original purchase
+money, while an outsider who wins will pay his backers perhaps ten, or
+even twenty times their deposit. There is also private betting, of
+course, but no public bookmakers.
+
+The horses are of very good quality, though not up to the standard of
+the classic races in Europe. A number of youngsters are imported yearly
+from England and the United States, and among them usually some good
+selling-plate winners, and one or two that have been placed in
+first-class flat races. The country also produces some excellent horses,
+and they are improving every year; the stud farms are already well known
+in Europe as some of the best in the world. Of these, the most
+important, perhaps, is the "Ojo de Agua," so-called from its famous
+spring, which waters all the stables as well as dwelling quarters. It is
+the home of the famous Cyllene, whose offspring we expect to see winning
+races in the near future; Polar Star, scarcely less known, and
+Ituzaingo, a native of this country, are his present companions; while
+the remains of Gay Hermit, Stiletto, Pietermaritzburg, and Kendal, all
+of whom are well known among turf circles at home, rest beneath its
+soil. There are several other equally famous stud farms, such as the
+"San Jacinto," the present home of Val d'Or, who won the Eclipse Stakes
+from Cicero, the Derby winner of that year; at another, Diamond Jubilee,
+whose list of victories is long, resided for the latter part of his
+life.
+
+Nor are the jockeys unworthy of their mounts, and some very fine riding
+may be witnessed both at Palermo and Hurlingham.
+
+In contrast to these races, run on a well-ordered course, and watched
+from luxurious stands, are the native "cancha" meetings, held, probably,
+at some country public-house, and run on a "cancha," consisting of a
+soft piece of road, or along a fence where there are no holes. The races
+consist of matches arranged between two ponies, over short distances.
+The start is made only by agreement of both the jockeys, and thus many
+hours are wasted in their manoeuvres to get the advantage of one another
+at the start. If the judges have money on the loser, the race is often
+given a dead heat, and has to be run again. The pony of most endurance
+has usually the best chance of winning, though the race itself is short,
+as his rival may be tired out by repeated false starts. Large sums of
+money often change hands at these meetings, as the native is a born
+gambler, and understands this primitive method of racing better than the
+more complicated systems of the regular course. Owing to this, and to
+the competitors' efforts to cheat one another, not infrequently knives
+are drawn during the heated discussion which follows the race.
+
+The ponies are, for the most part, taken straight off the camp, though
+in some cases they have been fed on maize and trained. They are ridden
+either bareback or with the native "recado," and catch-weights: as may
+be gathered from the method, it is usually "owners up."
+
+Between these two extreme classes of racing in this country are the
+English camp race-meetings, which are held by all the larger polo clubs
+once or twice a year. Being of rare occurrence, and as some, if not all,
+of the faces are open to members of other clubs, these are among the
+chief social gatherings in camp life: in many cases there is a small
+polo tournament attached, as it is the best opportunity for those who
+come from a distance, and could not come twice. Therefore it usually
+means a two or three days' holiday, and often a dance, or some
+entertainment in the evenings. Old friends exchange reminiscences, and
+new acquaintances are formed; while the ladies also make the best of the
+opportunity to put on their smartest frocks and hats.
+
+The races themselves, too, are the source of considerable talk and
+excitement: both horses and jockeys are well known by sight or
+reputation to the chief part of the company, and any "dark horse" or new
+arrival, is inspected with care and anxiety by his rivals.
+
+The class of horse entered varies between the three-quarter bred and the
+"criollo" with no pretence to breeding at all, who often carries off the
+short polo pony sprints. Occasionally there may be a thoroughbred
+entered who has been found wanting at Palermo or Hurlingham, but these
+are few and not always successful, as the longest races do not often
+exceed about a mile and a-half. As the weights correspond to
+steeplechase weights at home the jockeys are practically always
+amateurs, and a large percentage of "owners up" is always found. Young
+mayor-domos who have never ridden at a meeting before often find
+themselves ranged alongside of Grand National riders at the start, and
+some amusing incidents have occurred, though there is some very good
+amateur riding to be seen as well.
+
+The betting is on a smaller scale generally than at the native meeting,
+and is often conducted by someone setting up as a public bookmaker; at
+other times a "sport" is formed after the fashion of Palermo. Also the
+auction of all entries before the start of the races in the American way
+is a great favourite; the total receipts for each race are divided
+proportionately between those who bought the winner and "placed" horses.
+
+There is opportunity for a little horse-dealing too, and many good polo
+ponies to send home or play in the tournaments have been picked up in
+this way. The shorter races for ponies under polo height give an
+opportunity to the polo player, and the mayor-domo who cannot train his
+ponies for longer distances, to try the mettle of their mounts against
+outside and purer blood.
+
+Nowadays most of the entries are trained to some extent, though not
+many go to regular training establishments. To have a reasonable chance
+of running well in the longer races, however, it is necessary to have
+your mounts in stable exercised regularly and fed on corn. It is only
+quite lately, however, that even so much training has been adopted at
+all generally. In the old pioneer days of English estancias, when these
+clubs were formed, they raced ponies taken straight off grass and kept
+fit by riding the regular rounds of camp and stock.
+
+There are many tales of the great "rags" that happened in those days,
+and curious incidents of racing, too. On one occasion a winner of a polo
+pony race was objected to as over height. The measurement was to be
+taken after the end of the meeting; and it must be remembered that all
+ponies out in the camp are unshod. The man who had come in second went
+round to the stables before the measuring and noticed in the winner's
+stall a number of large pieces of hoof recently chopped off. The pony
+passed with an inch off his forefeet and nothing was said, though it had
+been obviously over height. That evening at bridge the owner happened to
+win considerably from the man who had lodged the complaint, who, when
+the score was to be settled, threw down some pieces of hoof on the table
+saying, "Take back your dirty chips."
+
+Nowadays, of course, things are not quite so rough and ready, and most
+of the clubs are affiliated, and run under Hurlingham or the Jockey Club
+rules, so that good sport and good feeling prevail. In fact the camp man
+looks forward to these occasions as the best bits of sport and amusement
+that he will get during the year.
+
+
+
+
+SUNDAYS IN CAMP.
+
+
+
+
+
+SUNDAYS IN CAMP.
+
+
+In no place is Sunday more looked forward to and enjoyed than in camp.
+Holidays on the estancia come but seldom, and were it not for the
+welcome break that gives the campman a day of rest every week, his life
+would be a round of work, and probably make him the proverbial "dull
+boy." All the busy working-days are so filled with the various duties
+that when evening comes and dinner is over the tired worker has little
+inclination for reading or any other relaxation, the thought of that
+early bell which rouses him before sunrise makes him take advantage of
+every hour's sleep he can. At an hour when the townman is thinking of
+beginning the evening's amusement at theatre or concert, the campman is
+sleeping the sound sleep that fresh air combined with hard work never
+denies. But on one evening an exception is made to these early hours,
+and that is Saturday. With the pleasant feeling of a week's work
+completed and the morrow's rest before them, our campmen begin their
+weekly holiday by an extra hour or two at billiards or music, or perhaps
+a rubber of bridge, turning in with a fervid "Thank goodness,
+to-morrow's Sunday." Then the pleasure of waking at the usual hour (4
+a.m. or even earlier in summer) and remembering that it is the blessed
+Day of Rest, and having time to enjoy the extra hours, then the luxury
+of dressing at one's leisure, choosing the collar and most becoming tie
+and adjusting them with care, and coming out in spotless white duck or
+smart riding breeches, ready to enjoy whatever sport is in season;
+tennis is mostly played all the year round; and when birds are plentiful
+a shoot on the lagunas attracts the sportsman, the "bag" making a
+welcome variety to the dinner table; snipe, partridge, hares, and many
+varieties of duck are common in a season that has not been too dry.
+Then, to those lucky ones who have a polo club within reach, Sunday
+during the winter season is a day of real enjoyment.
+
+The game, which in England can only be played by men of means, can on
+the estancia be enjoyed by all at little expense, the useful little
+Argentine horses being easily trained to the game. Sometimes one finds a
+few enterprising golfers who, with not a little trouble, make a few
+"greens" and do a couple of rounds just to keep their hand in, but it is
+not a general camp game. It will be seen, however, that the Day of Rest
+is not one of idleness, but rather a healthful and beneficial change of
+exercise.
+
+Church service enters but seldom into the camp Sunday--such privileges
+are rare, although now camp parsons are more numerous than a few years
+ago--but at best one can only count on one or two services a year. When
+a Church service _is_ held he would be a carping critic indeed who is
+not satisfied and pleased with the earnest attention with which the
+service is followed and the vigorous singing of hymns and chants in
+which all the boys join so lustily; it is a reminder of Home to them,
+and the familiar service is thoroughly enjoyed.
+
+The Day of Rest, so essential to one's well-being, seems to come round
+with such surprising rapidity that we may say truly it proves that
+estancia life, with its long hours of hard work, so far from being
+monotonous or wearisome, is a happy life. Where time flies past quickly
+it means it passes happily, and amongst the most pleasant of the days we
+spend in this land of sunshine we must count the Sundays in camp.
+
+[Illustration: "A Day of Real Enjoyment."]
+
+THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.
+
+
+
+
+THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA.
+
+
+We often hear complaints from friends at home about the trouble they
+experience over obtaining and keeping good servants, and there is no
+doubt that the servant problem is a serious one in England, and is
+getting worse every year; but it pales into insignificance when compared
+with the trials and tribulations of those who live in the Argentine and
+have to keep house.
+
+From all one hears, those living in Buenos Aires and the larger towns
+have a terrible time of it with their servants, especially if they are
+not overburdened with the good things of this world in the shape of hard
+cash; but my experiences have been confined to the camp, so that of the
+town side of the question I cannot speak.
+
+I have been three years in the province of Cordoba, and all the servants
+I have met with except one were Argentines from the foothills of the
+Cordoba Sierras.
+
+They were without exception quite untrained as far as the English idea
+goes, and the first thing to do with them was usually to teach them the
+primitive ideas of cleanliness. The first servant I had was an ancient
+female named Andrea, about forty years old, and it proved quite
+impossible to get her to see the necessity of keeping anything in the
+kitchen clean, as she seemed imbued with the idea that it was great
+waste of time washing saucepans and frying-pans, as they would only get
+dirty again when next used, and the most she could be persuaded to do
+was to rub them round inside with a bit of old newspaper or a handful of
+grass. Needless to say, after a time I got tired of these methods, and
+so we parted.
+
+My next servant, Angelina, was one of the best I had, as she was clean,
+which was a great consideration, and also she was quick to learn and
+soon picked up the rudiments of cooking according to our ideas; her
+great failing, however, was that she was anything but honest, and could
+not refrain from petty pilfering; and another drawback to her was her
+objection to wearing shoes or stockings in the hot weather; in spite of
+being constantly told that she must not appear without them, she would
+insist in doing so, and this was a continual cause of trouble.
+
+After getting rid of No. 2 our real troubles began, and we had eight
+changes in ten months. At the time we were living in wooden huts about
+two miles from a village which was a summer resort for rich people from
+Buenos Aires, and this caused a dearth of servants during the summer
+months, as the place was full from the beginning of December to the end
+of March, and people who came up for the summer and rented houses
+usually were willing to pay anything to get servants, with the result
+that we outside would get none, or only the cast-off ones. Nos. 3 and 4
+stayed but a short time. My fifth attempt was a terrible girl, too dirty
+for words; and though apparently willing to learn, too utterly lacking
+in intelligence to ever learn anything. She used to get herself into the
+most awful grimy condition, and one incident during her time with me is
+worth mentioning. I had with great difficulty one day got her to
+understand that a wood floor could not be properly cleaned with a grass
+broom dipped in cold water and just swished about over it, and, by going
+down on my knees with a scrubbing brush and hot water and soap, and
+giving a practical demonstration of how a floor should be washed, had
+started her away to clean it, and judged that I might safely leave her,
+to attend to the other household duties in the kitchen. I must tell you
+that the day previously I had given her a practical lesson in
+black-leading a stove by doing it myself while she looked on. Well,
+after an hour in the kitchen I returned to see how she was getting on,
+when I found to my great pleasure that not content with scrubbing the
+floor, she had also attacked the stove with hot water, soap, and
+scrubbing brush, with the result that my hard work of the previous day
+was all undone and the whole room well sprinkled with black specks and
+the stove a mass of rust. Two weeks of similar experiences finished our
+acquaintance, and she gave place to No. 6. After I had spent three weeks
+teaching No. 6 cooking, she quietly informed me that she was leaving at
+the end of the week to take up a place as cook in Rosario, as she now
+knew enough cooking for the position; so I had not only wasted all my
+time in teaching her, but had paid her into the bargain for learning
+enough to leave me.
+
+The next servant, No. 7, Alexandrina, was, I think, the worst. She was a
+Spaniard from Barcelona. She was an awful individual, and would insist
+on wearing clothes of so light and scanty a nature that she was not
+decent to have about the house; also, whenever we happened to have a
+joke of any sort to laugh over at meals, she used immediately to come in
+from the kitchen to see what was going on, and I had the greatest
+difficulty to get her to return to the kitchen. I had to get rid of her,
+because her moral reputation was anything but good, and two days in the
+week she refused to get out of bed, and told me to do my own dirty work,
+as she was ill; so at the end of two weeks she had to go. No. 8, Maria,
+was a girl direct from the sierras, and was very stupid and silly, and
+did not a single thing. One day I was buying vegetables, and she asked
+me why I wanted to buy roots, and when I told her they were to eat, she
+said even poor people could afford to buy meat, and she would not eat
+them. One day I took this girl out with me to do some shopping, and
+called on some people who had a piano. It was twilight, and someone was
+playing the piano, and she rushed in the room and out again, with her
+face very white, and said someone was beating a big, black animal in the
+corner of the room, and it was screaming dreadfully with the pain. This
+girl's mother was a very talkative old lady, and would insist on coming
+with three children every day and taking up her position in the kitchen,
+and when once she commenced to talk, one could not get away from her. At
+the end of the month she came for the girl's pay, and wanted me to pay
+her more money, which I was not willing to do, as I had been unable to
+teach her much; so she asked if her daughter might go away for the day
+and night, as she had to bath. This I was only too willing to agree to,
+and let her go; but they returned in the middle of the night, and
+removed all her belongings. After a few days I managed to get No. 9, who
+was a widow with two children: but she only stayed two weeks. Our tenth
+and last attempt was made with No. 4 once more, as she was again able to
+come to us. She stayed two months, when we went away for four weeks'
+holiday. A week after our return I paid her in full for the month,
+though she had never been near the house all that time, and she promptly
+said she could not stay with us any longer, and left. We nearly got to
+No. 11, as we engaged a girl to come at $20 a month to start with, and
+she was to come the next morning at eight o'clock to begin work. She
+arrived at 10 a.m., and informed me that, as we had paid our last
+servant $25 the month, she could not come for less. I was so sick and
+tired of my experiences that this finished me, and I decided to do
+without any servant. Since then, for the last year, I have done the work
+myself.
+
+
+
+
+POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.
+
+
+
+
+POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY.
+
+
+Yes, times have changed since I went to San Cristobal just twenty years
+ago. For then the English were pioneers, so to speak; not in a country
+of savagery, but of semi-savagery, a very different and much worse
+matter. I wonder is A.J., the Chief of Police, still to the fore? Ye
+gods, how that man tried to break my heart, and how nearly he succeeded!
+I was a Mayor-domo then, and G. was my boss, standing in the place of
+the owners to me. The boss had a mortal dread of the police and their
+powers, seen and unseen. So that when the worthy Chief of Police
+suddenly decided to add the trade of butchering to his many lucrative
+businesses, I received orders to sell him cows at twenty-five per cent.
+less price than I sold to any of his competitors. Thus, whereas I was
+selling them at twenty dollars paper, then worth about one pound per
+head, I had to sell him at fifteen shillings, with the inevitable result
+that he almost immediately became master of the situation and the entire
+local market became his, enabling him to charge what he liked for meat,
+while I was forbidden to raise the price of the cows sold him.
+
+Insatiable in his greed, he began to ask for cattle twice a week, always
+taking from ten to twenty animals, until one day, after exceptionally
+wet weather, I protested that it was not possible to round up the stock
+in the then state of the camp and destroy so much grass for a small
+bunch of cows. Unlucky thought and ill-judged protest! For when he urged
+that the inhabitants of the town were starving, and that a small point
+of half-breed heifers would do to go on with, I received orders to let
+him part out from our best herd. Twenty fine half-bred Herefords did he
+pick while I almost shed tears of blood, though all the time, of course,
+I had to show a smiling face.
+
+This sort of thing had been going on for some time, when one of the
+boundary riders told me that the fence between the town and one of our
+nearest paddocks had been cut during the night.
+
+"Then mend it up," said I.
+
+"Sir, it is mended already."
+
+Not a week had passed before the same man brought me the same report. So
+I determined to "parar rodeo" (round up the cattle) immediately, and
+count them. Twenty heifers short in one square league, and in less than
+a month! This thing had to stop. I told the Capataz to take the boundary
+rider off that beat, without telling him why, and then the Capataz and I
+patrolled the fence night after night for a week, during which it was
+never cut.
+
+We put a new boundary rider on, and three mornings later he came to see
+me bright and early, saying that not only had the fence been cut, but
+that there were distinct traces of cattle having passed out recently.
+
+After assuring myself that there was no doubt about the matter, for I
+found the hoof marks of what I calculated to be not less than twenty
+animals, I went post haste to my friend the Chief of Police, never
+doubting that after all the favours shown him he would prove a friend in
+need. I was young then.
+
+"You don't say so, Don Ernesto!" said his podgy, putty-faced little
+Highness. "Where was it? When was------ By heavens, somebody shall
+suffer for this! Just let me or any of my soldiers catch the thieves,
+and not one of them shall reach Santa Fe alive. Now, I'll tell you what.
+Just leave it to me, and don't you worry nor think any more about the
+matter, much less mention it to a soul. In less than two days I'll have
+the thief or thieves here in the stocks."
+
+I told him plainly that that was not my programme, and that, whatever he
+did, I was not going to leave that fence unpatrolled until I could move
+the stock out of the paddock.
+
+"Then this is what we'll do, Don Ernesto. You shall be one of us. You
+come and dine with me at six o'clock this evening, and afterwards we'll
+go out with the sergeant and five or six men and catch 'em."
+
+It was about the equinox, if I remember rightly--the springtime, when
+everything is lovely and lovable: the camp flowers all in bloom, the
+aroma of the trees burdening the air with delicious perfume, the fresh
+verdure and plenty of grass, the powerful, stout-hearted bounding of the
+horse (no longer "poor") beneath one, and, above all, the great issue
+expected of the business in hand, the most important business to me in
+the world at the time--all these combined spelled but one word, "Hope!"
+
+Carbine in hand, Colt in holster, I arrived at his residence. There he
+was, sitting at the door of his corner house, whence he could look down
+three streets at once. How like a spider, I thought.
+
+His welcome was cordial, but he seemed to smile at my eagerness, and
+told me that he never dined before eight.
+
+"But let us sit here in the cool of the evening," said he, handing out a
+chair for me to sit by him on the footpath, "and let us take some
+refreshment to while away the time. But, tell me, where did you say that
+the fence was cut? But did you really see signs that cattle had passed?
+Preposterous! The sons of guns shall suffer for this. Eh well, I'm glad
+of it in a way--glad to have a little work, and perhaps a little
+excitement. It doesn't do to have a too orderly district, for the
+Governor and his satellites in Santa Fe imagine I'm lazy and not looking
+after my business if they hear of no commotions. That black fellow you
+sent me the other day, Don Ernesto--the fellow that was molesting a mad
+woman in the camp--- I've got him seventeen years in the line for that.
+I wish you would send me a few more, for hardly a letter comes from
+Santa Fe in which I am not asked to send in recruits, so hard up are
+they for Provincial soldiers."
+
+Just then a poor Italian colonist came up, hat in hand. He, too, and all
+his class were pioneers in those days, and God knows what they suffered.
+
+"Well, what d'ye want?" asked my companion.
+
+"Sir," said the wretched man, stuttering in his nervousness, "one of my
+bullocks has been stolen, and I know the thief. I have been to the
+Justice of the Peace, and he told me to bring the thief to him; but,
+sir, the th-thief refuses to come."
+
+"_Bueno_! Ten dollars, and ten dollars _down_," roared the majesty of
+law.
+
+"But, sir,----"
+
+"No! But me no buts! Ten dollars at once, or I'll call the sergeant to
+lock you up until you can get it."
+
+I could see that the poor fellow's heart was breaking as he drew the
+money from his pocket and handed it over. Smilingly the bully turned to
+me and said, as his victim walked slowly away, "I'll bet you that that
+man doesn't come around to molest me again. I'll guarantee to you, Don
+Ernesto, that there isn't a district in the whole province where so few
+appeals for justice are made."
+
+At last it was dinner-time, and, being ushered into a dirty room with a
+brick floor, dim light and grimy tablecloth, I seated myself at the
+table with my host, his secretary, the doctor, and a clerk. The dinner
+was in the usual native style of those days: ribs of beef roasted on
+the gridiron, beef and pumpkin boiled together, to finish up with
+"caldo," which is simply the water in which the beef and vegetables have
+been boiled, with a good thick coating of grease.
+
+No sooner had we begun dinner than it was noticed that we had no wine.
+
+"No wine! How's this? What d'ye mean?" as he angrily turned to the
+sergeant who was waiting.
+
+"If you please, sir, So-and-so and So-and-so," mentioning the name of a
+local firm of storekeepers, "say that they can supply no more wine until
+they can get some of their accounts settled."
+
+"How dare you bring me such a message as that! Take the corporal with a
+couple of men and bring a half-barrel at once--in less than three
+minutes, or I'll know the reason why."
+
+The barrel was brought, and, with a bit and brace, quickly tapped, and
+the wine set flowing round the table.
+
+The dinner dragged on and on, until I thought he meant us to sit there
+all night. Ten o'clock came, half-past, and then eleven. Then I began to
+smell a rat. I kept on urging the necessity for action, but it became
+more and more evident that the Chief was fooling. He pressed wine upon
+all and upon me in particular, while he drank little himself, although
+he pretended otherwise. At last, I could stand it no longer, and got up
+in no very good humour to go.
+
+"No, but stop, Don Ernesto! Where are you going? Sit down again. The
+horses are not saddled yet: not even caught up. Sit down and have
+patience and we'll all go with you in good time."
+
+It was after twelve when at last we made a start. There were the Chief,
+the sergeant, a corporal, four men, and myself. We rode slowly in a
+northerly direction until we came to a small gate in the fence, of which
+I had the key. All the way thither the Chief, while commending me for my
+forethought in bringing arms, had been impressing upon me the importance
+of not using them, no matter what happened, "Because, you see, you are
+not an arm of the law, and if you were to shoot anyone, I should be
+obliged to arrest you and send you to Santa Fe."
+
+When we got through the fence, what was my surprise when the Chief said,
+"Bueno, Don Ernesto, you and I have had a long day. What I propose is
+that you and I off-saddle and doss down here, while the sergeant and men
+patrol with muffled bits and spurs at a short distance from the fence.
+Then the moment they hear anything they can come and let us know!"
+
+In vain I protested that this was not my idea at all, and that I too
+wanted to do the patrolling, but when he told a man to take the saddle
+off my horse and shake down a bed for me, I thought it wiser to
+acquiesce, or, at least, appear to do so. I shall never forget that
+night. How we talked and talked and talked as we lay beneath the
+brilliant stars, I, boiling with rage and anxiety under my assumed
+tranquillity, while he, doubtless, was as much annoyed at having to keep
+me in conversation. It must have been nearly four o'clock when I told
+him that I really must sleep. "Bueno," said he, as he rolled over on his
+side, "hasta manana."
+
+In five minutes he was snoring. Even so, I did not dare to move, for
+fear that he might be foxing. About an hour passed, during which he
+moved, coughed, expectorated, and had other signs of conscious
+animation, much to my disgust, until at last I thought the snoring
+sounded too genuine to be shammed, so I crept towards him and whispered
+in his ear that I thought I heard sounds of movement. But his snoring
+was rhythmic and swinish, so I gathered up my saddle and gear and stole
+over to my horse, which was picketed some yards off, and proceeded to
+saddle him up. In doing so, my stirrups somehow clashed and thought it
+was all up, for what a fool I should look if he woke and discovered me.
+But it was all right: the music continued.
+
+I led the horse for some little distance, then mounting, I rode him down
+alongside the fence for about a mile until I came to a fresh gap in it.
+
+Horror! Even though it was but what my suspicions had depicted, the
+realisation came as a shock to me. "The--! The--!" To repeat my
+expressions would edify no one.
+
+Guided by the signal-lights at the station, I moved along at a smart
+trot and soon recognised the quick tramping of animals ahead. Then I
+drew back, and as the day was just breaking, I drew round to the west
+side of the cavalcade, so that I might see without being seen. Yes, sure
+enough, there were six military chacots outlined against the great sky
+and a troop of animals ahead of them.
+
+I halted to let them get well away from me, and then, with rage and
+hatred in my heart, swearing vengeance all the while, I galloped as hard
+as ever I could to the estancia, to impatiently await the uprising of my
+boss.
+
+"We must wire, or one of us must go to the Governor in Santa Fe at
+once," I urged. But what was my disgust to be met with but a quiet smile
+of amusement!
+
+"Not if I know it," said he. "Why, good God, man, do you want to have
+all our throats cut? This man is a personal friend of the Governor's,
+and what satisfaction do you think we are likely to get out of that?"
+
+"Then let us go to the Consul, the British Minister, or even to the
+President of the Republic?"
+
+A quiet smile with a negatory shake of the head was the only answer.
+
+A fortnight later I sought him in his private sitting-room and found the
+Chief of Police sitting in an easy-chair.
+
+"Ha! ha! ha! Don Ernesto. So you caught us, did you? Well, it was worth
+the fun. I never laughed so much in all my life as when I awoke that
+morning and found that you had given me the slip!"
+
+
+
+
+A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO.
+
+
+After three years on an estancia in the vast monotonous, treeless, but
+most fertile plains of the Central Argentine, under scorching sun,
+driving rains, and biting wind, one feels that one would like to see a
+river sometimes, animal life and more congenial surroundings; and so I
+determined to visit the Northern Chaco, that enormous tract of land
+which lies North of Santa Fe and stretches right away for many hundreds
+of miles to North, East, and West.
+
+Leaving Rosario by the night express, one crosses the great, slightly
+undulating plains, probably among the richest in the world for the
+growth of wheat, linseed, and maize, reaching Santa Fe early the
+following morning. This town, the capital and Government centre of the
+province, is rather an uninteresting place; chiefly noticeable in it are
+the great number of fine churches and the magnificent sawmills owned by
+a large French company. Santa Fe is supposed to be one of the most
+religious centres in the Republic. More than once it has almost been
+washed away in an eddy of the giant Parana in flood, the water rising
+four feet in the houses on the highest level in the town.
+
+After spending a day of sight-seeing in Santa Fe, we embarked at
+nightfall for Vera, the headquarters of the Santa Fe Land Company's wood
+department, arriving there in the early morning. The land around here
+from the train appears to be a dry, salty country, devoid of herbage,
+and only valuable on account of the excellent forest trees and timber.
+
+Our morning meal was taken in the station waiting-room (the only
+restaurant in the town), and consisted of cold coffee and what the
+Argentine understands by boiled eggs, which have in reality been in
+boiling water half a minute, and which, in order to eat, one has to tip
+into a wine-glass and beat up with a fork, adding pepper and salt, etc.
+This is the general way of eating eggs in South America; an egg cup is
+one of the few things one cannot get in the country without going to an
+English store in Buenos Aires.
+
+Leaving Vera at 8 a.m. the train goes at a snail's pace along the branch
+line to Reconquista, covering the distance of about thirty leagues in
+five hours. Arriving there in the sweltering midday heat, we were met by
+an English friend and his capataz, the latter dressed in his enormous
+slouch hat, deerskin apron, and silver spurs weighing probably a full
+kilo.
+
+One cannot help noticing at once the different type of natives; from the
+slow, slouching, don't-care kind of men, which one sees in Cordoba and
+Southern Santa Fe, to the quick, straight, hawk-eyed half-Indian
+Chaquenos.
+
+Reconquista on a hot summer's day is one of the dirtiest places on this
+earth, which is saying a good deal. One drives through streets two feet
+deep in light sandy dust, which hangs in clouds all over the town. There
+is an excellent hotel in the centre of the town, built on typical
+Spanish plans with fine large open patios, which are filled with
+splendid tropical plants and ferns. Having washed off the dust of three
+days' travel from our weary persons, and having changed into more
+suitable travelling gear, we sat down to an excellent spread.
+
+In the cool of the evening we made a tour of the town, being most
+interested in the cigar factories, where we bought excellent smokes for
+$2 a hundred, all hand-made from pure tobacco leaf by the brown-hued
+lasses of Reconquista.
+
+The rest of the evening we spent in unpacking our native saddles, and
+preparing everything for our long horseback journey--not having
+forgotten to see that our tropilla of fifteen grey ponies were fit and
+ready to make an early start next morning.
+
+Three a.m. next morning found us out in the "corrales" having our ponies
+allotted to us by the capataz--we found the tropilla on "ronda"--that
+is, in a corner with a lasso tied across in front of them, the height of
+their chests, and all facing outwards. This is the most general way of
+teaching horses to stand in the Chaco, as, if taught to stand singly,
+they would fall too easy a prey to the Indians and gauchos. In order to
+saddle these ponies we had to "manear" them, that is, tie their forelegs
+together, for without this they refused to let us put the blankets on
+their backs.
+
+All being ready, we started off, four of us, two in front and two
+behind, with eleven loose ponies between us. By this time the sky was
+beginning to grow light, and evidently the fresh morning air had
+disagreed with my friend T.'s horse, which suddenly cleared down a side
+street with his head between his forelegs and his back arched like the
+bend in an archer's bow.
+
+After some seconds of this amusing sight T. managed to get the pony's
+head up and came along again, looking very warm and beaming; his
+pink-nosed pony quite satisfied that he would have to carry more than
+his own weight for some distance further.
+
+Leaving Reconquista on the north we crossed, over an old railway
+embankment, a large stretch of low country, through which a small stream
+glided with winding course, and jogging along league after league we
+gradually got into more interesting country: little clumps of trees with
+very thick undergrowth, clinging creepers, bright-coloured flowers, and
+gorgeously plumaged birds.
+
+All along the sides of the roads were little farms, apparently
+uncultivated, except for small patches of wonderfully grown maize and
+browning linseed. Practically all these farms are owned by Swiss and
+German peasants, each one with his small herd of cows and working
+bullocks.
+
+We changed our ponies every three or four leagues, always going at the
+same jog-trot, stopping occasionally at a wayside inn to wet our parched
+throats with fresh well water (with a drop of cana in it to kill the
+microbes), and smoking hard all the time to keep off the swarms of
+mosquitoes.
+
+After travelling ten leagues or so we began to leave these habitations
+behind us, and got into wilder country with no fences, only long
+stretches of undulating land, dotted with patches of splendid-looking
+trees and enticing shade.
+
+The road occasionally crossed small streams, which gradually became more
+tropical looking, until we came to quite a large river, two or three
+hundred metres wide, looking beautifully peaceful and oily. Standing
+above on the bank, in the shade of some magnificent quebracho trees, we
+looked down upon this lazy stretch of perfect scenery, when suddenly
+there was a slight disturbance in the water and a small black dot
+appeared on the top of the water. The capataz at once pulled out his
+revolver, all of us doing likewise, only to have to put them back again,
+as the dot had disappeared as quickly as it came. This was the first
+sign of wild animal life we saw, the "jacare" or alligator. In the more
+civilised parts of the Chaco, these animals, as well as the carpincho or
+water-hog, are getting quite rare, and having been so much shot at and
+worried they need the most careful stalking.
+
+As we got further away, we came upon many more of these streams, all
+looking much the same; some had bridges over them made of quebracho
+logs, laid endways on and covered with earth, very dangerous to cross
+after wet weather or floods, especially at night, as they are generally
+full of holes where the earth has fallen in.
+
+At 10 a.m. each day we unsaddled for lunch, which was generally composed
+of "charque" or salted beef, biscuits, and coffee. The first night we
+slept at the last habitation which we saw, a small wayside inn. Arriving
+there late in the evening, we had the greatest difficulty in obtaining
+entrance on account of the chorus of barking, snapping dogs, and on
+account of the innkeeper's fear of drunken gauchos.
+
+Another early start on the second day saw us well on our journey by
+siesta time, which we spent on the edge of a very fine forest. The
+afternoon was very hot, and we did not start off again until 4 o'clock.
+During the evening we swam across a small river which we found
+overflowing its banks on account of the local rains, and, as darkness
+fell, we found it almost impossible to see our way on account of the
+fireflies, which made such a glare in front of us that the slight track
+which we had been following was almost invisible. It was a very dark
+night, and once or twice we felt rain. We had to go very slowly, so that
+we should not miss the track. Thus we trotted on in Indian file, each of
+us now leading spare horses, in silence, except when one of us asked how
+many leagues it was to the estancia, only to jog on again for what
+seemed two or three hours, until almost midnight. With a cheerful yell
+we suddenly came on a barbed wire fence, and after hunting about for a
+time, a wire gate.
+
+Immediately tongues seemed to be mechanically loosened and the
+conversation flowed freely, discussing the ride, horses, coming
+stiffness, and all the things that one has to talk about after two and
+a-half days in the saddle. On reaching the estancia about 2 a.m., none
+of us needed much bed, and throwing our things down on the grass
+outside, we soon were dreaming of alligators, broken bridges, swimming
+rivers, etc.
+
+About 10 o'clock the next morning I awoke to find myself on a most neat
+little estancia high up on a hill, overlooking, across a slight valley,
+magnificent forests where one could see the glint of running water.
+
+The house was brick floored and had four very nice rooms, which had been
+colour-washed by my friends with excellent success. The ceilings at once
+attracted attention, being of a deep-coloured black wood, well oiled and
+seasoned. "Timbo" it is called, and is the best carving and furniture
+wood in the country.
+
+Out in the garden were oranges, lemons, citrons, pomegranates, limes,
+and all kinds of luxurious fruits and vegetables. In a small fenced
+paddock at the end of the garden, were sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, cotton,
+tobacco, and some magnificent maize.
+
+The men's huts were made of mud over a cane network, and the roofs were
+made of split palm trees, hollowed out and made in the form of a large
+~~~~~~~ the palms being placed concavely and convexly alternately,
+making fine drainage for the heavy rains. The whole place was surrounded
+by a ring of fine chaco paraiso trees and "ombu." The horse corrals were
+all _palo a pique_, that is, made of solid posts, stuck in close
+together side by side, and about two metres high, with no wire.
+
+The camp was more or less on the real banks of the Parana, sloping away
+to the river four leagues away, and forming one of the most fertile
+spots in the Republic. This low-lying land is the finest and cheapest
+grazing in the north, but it is unreliable because it is quite inundated
+in time of floods, when the cattle have to be withdrawn to higher camp.
+
+During various excursions on the following days we saw tracks of
+"tigers" (leopard) and "lions" (puma); the kill of the latter, a small
+gazelle buck, "guasuncho," we found neatly covered up with grass and
+leaves, and easily distinguishable from the tiger's kill, which is
+always left uncovered. A very fine tiger's skin was brought in one
+night, measuring 1.84 metres from the tip of the nose to the root of the
+tail, and 1.56 metres across. The man had suddenly come across it while
+on foot in the monte, and after wounding it with his Winchester had run
+it down with his dogs and killed it.
+
+One evening we caught sight of a tapi (tapir) coming down to drink, but
+were unable to shoot on account of the bad light. Each day we saw many
+wild pigs ("chancho moro") and various kinds of wild cats, including the
+splendid "gato once" or ounce cat, whose skin is one of the finest, and
+only to be compared with the "lobo" or golden otter, which has a most
+magnificent fluffy pelt with a golden tint on the tips. The latter is
+unfortunately getting very rare now.
+
+The great wolf or "aguaras" is still common, and is a very stately
+beast, as he slopes along with his hind-quarters well under him, with
+pricked ears and shaggy black mane.
+
+The forests here are mostly in long strips and clumps, with excellent
+pasture land between them; and they contain, among other commoner chaco
+trees, lance wood, four crowns, and tala. Amongst the strange trees
+there is one enormous broad-leafed tree called "guapoij," which has long
+creeping roots, which cling on to neighbouring trees and gradually pull
+them down and absorb all their goodness, killing them, and in some
+marvellous way apparently eating them up. One finds occasionally one of
+these trees embracing another bigger than itself, and gradually rooting
+it out of the ground.
+
+On all low ground one generally finds "Zeibos"--a tree with very soft
+wood and very pretty branches of scarlet flowers.
+
+The wild apricot or "ijguajay" grows everywhere, and looks a very
+tempting fruit, fatal, however, to most Europeans, as it is a very
+powerful purge. The Indian children eat the fruit with joy, and it
+apparently has no bad effect on them.
+
+The forests are full of all kinds of animals, and, in addition to those
+already mentioned, there are red deer, black and brown monkeys, and
+bear, and the ring-tailed coons, which latter make noises like the
+grunting of pigs.
+
+Of ground game there are foxes, tattoo or mulita, armadillo, and
+ostriches.
+
+Amongst the birds the most common are various kinds of hawks, including
+some very much like the great bustard, English brown buzzard, and osprey
+falcon, and two or three kinds of parrots and cockatoos, the green
+parrots being the curse to agriculturists, eating all the maize, as the
+locusts do in the South.
+
+There are many different kinds of "carpinteros" or woodpeckers, most of
+them having most wonderful plumage of brown, green, scarlet, blue, and
+yellow.
+
+A strange bird which is not often seen is the "tucan," a small black
+bird, with a beak almost as big as his body, and of a splendid orange
+colour with a scarlet tip; he is a top-heavy looking little chap when
+seen seated on an orange tree, his favourite haunt.
+
+Amongst table birds there are grey pheasants, martinetta, and
+partridges. Of wild fowl, there are enormous varieties, including the
+"pato real" or great tree duck, whistling mallard, various kinds of teal
+and shovellers, widgeon, muscony and hooded duck, black-headed geese,
+grey geese, and swans. Amongst water-birds are the black, grey, and
+white "garza" or heron. The latter are especially valuable on account of
+the splendid feathers on the back of their necks. Of the smaller birds
+there is the gallinetta, a kind of landrail, the curse of hunters
+shooting wild duck, their wretched screech warning every bird in the
+district. The beautifully coloured and almost transparently winged
+golden moorhen covers every stretch of water inland, and the "chaja" or
+wild turkey, one of the most useless birds in the Chaco, and quite
+uneatable, sends forth his dismal cry "chaja."
+
+The kingfishers are, perhaps, the most noticeable of all the river
+birds, and are of all sizes, from the small European variety to one
+almost ten times their size. Gorgeously plumaged, they skim, like
+flashes of light, over the water, which is full of all kinds of fish
+including "Dorado," a splendid fighting fish, excellent eating, which
+can be caught with rod or fly, and goes up to 10 kilos in weight;
+"Suravi," a great mud fish, which is seen sometimes basking out of
+water, weighing up to 50 kilos, with enormous head, and good eating;
+"Savala," the mud-eating cruiser, which one sees nearly always with its
+tail out of water, and which makes excellent revolver shooting;
+"Palmieta," the curse of the Chaco streams and rivers, making bathing
+unadvisable on account of its hostile assaults on the extremities of all
+foreign bodies; and the "rallo," or sun fish, a large flat fish with a
+long tail.
+
+Thus was spent a week of happy days of excursions and explorations,
+where sometimes we had to walk through great distances of undergrowth
+and the everywhere-abundant prickly cactus, cutting our way with large
+cavalry swords, always with our eyes skinned to catch sight of some
+strange bird, beast, or flower. Sometimes we waded for miles through
+swamps, which, in some places, abound with enormous water snakes up to 6
+metres long.
+
+We put up all kinds of water-fowl, as we struggled on, splashing
+through rivers, clambering up and skeltering down slippery banks,
+reaching home tired and weary every night to recount all the day's
+doings, sitting out in the patio in the cool evening, eaten up by
+mosquitoes.
+
+So ended my holiday, with hurried packing, much toast-drinking, and a
+final little farewell dance to the accompaniment of guitar, gramophone,
+mouth-organ, and accordion. The journey south was of no great interest,
+half on horseback, half in "galera," or public mail coach, with, as
+fellow passengers, a German traveller, a cure (most jovial of beings,
+who had brought enough food with him to feed a whole regiment), a head
+of police and his men, and two coach boys.
+
+The coach, with five young horses tied in abreast, went bumping and
+jolting along hour after hour, until we came to a big river,
+unfortunately in flood. The horses were unhitched, tied together and
+swum across; a boat coming from some unseen corner, took passengers and
+luggage across, leaving the coach itself alone, with a long wire tied to
+the end of the pole. The horses were fastened to the end of this wire on
+the other side of the river, and then, with a whoop and a cheer, the
+coach tumbled head-over-heels into the raging flood, twisting and
+turning in all ways, first one side up and then the other, until at last
+it reached the near bank. And so we travelled on, back to civilisation;
+a tiring journey in dust and heat by rail, bringing us home to the same
+old flat, treeless, priceless plains of the Central Argentine, to dream
+for many days of birds, fishes, animals, flowers, trees, good friends,
+and the fine natives of the Northern Chaco.
+
+
+
+
+WORK IN THE WOODS.
+
+
+
+
+WORK IN THE WOODS.
+
+
+The worker in the forests is of necessity an early riser, the nature of
+his task requiring that he should be up betimes. His preparations for
+breakfast are simple, and he is ready to start out after half an hour
+spent in imbibing a few mates full of yerba infusion. The cartmen tie in
+their bullocks, kept overnight in a corral, and drive off to bring in
+wood prepared by the axemen, the bullock-herd takes his charges to
+pasture and the men's employer mounts his horse to visit the camp of his
+axemen, or goes to the store to fetch meat and provisions. The axemen
+generally live in tents or temporary shelters, convenient to their work,
+and some distance from the contractor's rancho. They have to work hard,
+stripped to the waist in summer; they fell the trees, and either square
+the logs for baulks and sleepers, or cut the bark and outside layer of
+white wood off to make logs for export, working by moonlight when the
+heat of the day is excessive. Their food consists of biscuits, called
+Galleta, dried to the consistency of flint; these they soften in soup
+made from fresh meat or dried "Charki." To this soup is added rice,
+maize, or "Fido's," which is coarse macaroni.
+
+The favourite roast, called the "Asado," is made from ribs of beef
+impaled on a stick and placed near the fire till sufficiently cooked.
+This delicacy, usually as hard as nails, is enjoyed by the men, who cut
+off portions, which they hold in their teeth, while, with a jack-knife,
+mouthfuls are sawn off close to the nose, at the risk of shortening that
+organ. Water is drunk, or coffee sweetened liberally with moist sugar.
+This coffee is made in the country, chiefly from beans or maize, with a
+large percentage of chicory to give it body.
+
+It is picturesque to see a long string of carts enter a deposit to the
+sound of pistol cracks from long whips, and to watch the cartmen unload
+the heavy logs.
+
+A cartman will load his cart with logs of a ton and upwards, each with
+the aid of his team of bullocks, placing the chains so that the animals,
+at the desired moment, by advancing a short distance, roll the log from
+the ground on to the cart. In the case of very heavy logs the cart is
+placed upside down on the log, which is then bound to it, and the
+bullocks pull the whole thing over. The distances which have to be
+covered by these carts are considerable, fifteen miles in the day is not
+unusual, changing bullocks once en route, but a great deal depends on
+the roads being dry, as in wet weather the wheels sink up to the hubs in
+the mud and the roads are soon dotted here and there with loads
+abandoned till better conditions enable them to be reloaded and
+delivered at a depository.
+
+These cartmen are hardy fellows and work wet to the skin, covered with
+mud up to their knees, or, again, hidden in the dust from the roads,
+which envelopes the moving carts in a choking cloud.
+
+It is little to be wondered at if the axemen and cartmen, when pay day
+arrives, go in for a spree, which for them usually takes the form of
+gambling, enlivened by dancing and drinking till daylight.
+
+The result of sojourning in the woods does not, as might be expected,
+have the effect of making these men unsociable, and they embrace every
+opportunity of attending a race meeting or dance. When the men are
+excited by drink quarrels are frequent, and the police search them for
+arms before admitting them to a Re-union.
+
+Arms are carried ostensibly as a precaution against meeting with
+Indians and bad characters in the lonely recesses of the forest, and the
+men like to carry a knife and a good revolver, or, better still, a
+Winchester, to enable them to get a shot at any wild animal they may
+come across, the skins of these being much prized. They take a pleasure
+in presenting a visitor with a puma skin or other trophy of the chase.
+
+Among these people one looks for, and finds, the primitive idea of
+hospitality, an unaffected welcome and willingness to give of the best
+they have. Here are men independent by virtue of their labour, which
+gives them sufficient for their daily wants. They have no thought for
+the morrow or what will be their lot when too feeble to work.
+
+The axemen, who are natives of Italy and Austria, are very good workmen,
+but compare unfavourably with natives of the country, being extremely
+dirty in their persons, to such a degree that it is a disagreeable
+experience to have to interview them in an office, whereas the Argentine
+native puts on his best apparel when he goes to an estancia.
+
+The forest workers are nomads, and, as the woods get cut out, move on to
+fresh camping grounds, leaving the woods to revert to their former
+solitude, a haunt for the wild animals, who creep back once silence has
+returned.
+
+
+
+
+CACHAPES, AND OTHER THINGS.
+
+
+
+
+CACHAPES, AND OTHER THINGS.
+
+
+To a man coming from the Southern Camps to the forest belt of Santa Fe,
+the cachape must appeal as something peculiar to the district, and most
+essentially local. He has had a surfeit of carts with two wheels, each
+12 feet high, and dragged by anything from sixteen to twenty-eight
+horses; Russian carts, like Thames punts on four wheels, no longer amuse
+him, while American spring carts are much too European to warrant
+unslinging the Kodak. But the cachape--here is something not to be
+lightly passed over. Lying idle it may not strike him at first sight as
+a cart, but rather as a remnant of some revolution, when, tired of
+waging light operatic war, the army disbanded, leaving their
+gun-carriages to serve more peaceful purposes.
+
+Two pairs of short, squat, enormously powerful wheels; between, and
+joining them, a roughly hewn pole and various chains in an apparently
+hopeless tangle. Yet see them in work--every niche doing its work, every
+chain taking ten per cent, more strain than it was ever intended to
+take, creaking, groaning, crashing into holes, crawling laboriously over
+snaps and trunks to fall again with its load of four tons with a
+jerking, swaying, and straining as though struggling to free itself from
+its load, and you recognise the _raison d'etre_ of the queer little
+cart.
+
+The capache is not without its humorous moments. Supposing the cartmen
+find a log too heavy to load in the ordinary way; they do not return and
+inform the boss that the log must be hoisted by mechanical means or
+propose high-priced cranes. Seeing that obviously they can't put the log
+on the cart, they accept the alternative and put the cart on the log,
+chain it on securely, then haul everything right side up again with the
+bullocks and proceed to the unloading station. Once there, it might be
+supposed that they would tumble the cart over again, but here the
+intelligent foreigner is misled. The correct proceeding now is for the
+cartmen to lie on their backs and push with their feet, after the manner
+of the gentlemen in music halls, who, reclining on sawed-off sofas,
+twiddle gold-spangled spheres with their toes; only our cartmen lie in
+water and mud and the gold-spangled sphere is changed for a three-ton
+log. The force the men can exert in this position is little short of
+marvellous. Out one crawls, reviews the situation, then back again
+under, a creak, a combined push, and over the wheels comes the log,
+throwing up the mud and water for 50 feet around. Then back they go
+again for another load six miles through the forest. Wet through, their
+clothes hanging in ribbons from shoulders and belt, one day's mud caking
+on another's, and with a long sword stuck through their belt in front,
+they present a figure comical enough were it not that one knew the other
+side of the picture.
+
+Reeking with inherited consumption, they live the one life which is
+certain to kill them before they are forty. Wet through and chilled,
+they are called upon again and again to suddenly exert enormous
+strength, since no man can desert his cart. He must "get there." He must
+get out of his trouble. He eats largely when and how he can, and when he
+has saved any money the merry "Taba" bone charms it from him in a way
+too universal perhaps to call for any remark. Sometimes he finishes his
+carting days through too decided opinions as to the other man's
+integrity in playing "Taba"; sometimes on his canvas bed in a hut of mud
+and branches, his browny yellow face and sunken eyes asking no pity,
+betraying no emotion; in either case he is rarely over thirty-five and
+often leaves a wife and children.
+
+I say "wife and children," since it sounds the usual thing; but, as a
+matter of strict fact, the ceremony of getting married is deprecated
+among them, as it signifies "Putting on side," and is only resorted to
+when they are in a village and there is a chance that the presents that
+are given will more than compensate the tremendous expense they have to
+go to. Speaking to a gentleman of this kidney, I was informed that when
+the cross-eyed blacksmith Strike got married, it cost him three dollars
+and a-half (say 5s.) in fire crackers alone, and my informant went on to
+say that the only case he knew of where marriage had been really
+successful was that of the fair-haired carpenter, who was married and
+asked all the bosses on the place, who each gave something, with which
+he was able to buy a sewing machine for the eldest girl, then aged six.
+
+But, mark you, lest you should judge them lightly, remember that their
+unwritten pact is just as binding to them as our formal marriage tie is
+to us, and that in their way they are probably better husbands and
+fathers than your Balham clerk. In their young days they may chop and
+change, which changes are generally marked by little iron crosses in the
+woods, but, once they have settled down, desertion is far rarer than in
+civilised countries. I have seen a native workman with his shoulder
+blade in his arm-pit, his face cut to ribbons, and with pieces of
+casting sticking to his back through the carrying away of a crane, cavil
+against the idea of being taken into the township where the doctor was,
+lest his old woman, unused to a town life, should find the surroundings
+uncongenial. This in a broken, muttered whisper, twelve hours after the
+accident had happened, during which time every new arrival had been
+called upon to witness the peculiar nature of his injuries.
+
+Much has been said about the terrible wickedness of the lower-class
+native, his gambling, his immorality, his almost fanatical desire to
+murder everyone he sees; and for complete and detailed lists of crimes
+and monstrosities appeal to any newcomer, who will be delighted to hold
+forth on the subject; but when one has lived with them and worked with
+them under varying conditions, and has suffered in some degree what they
+suffer, one hesitates to condemn them offhand.
+
+Blackguards they are--but manly, humorous blackguards. Immoral, one must
+confess them to be, according to our lights, but even in England "Custom
+from time immemorial" is held as law.
+
+The vast majority will steal raw hide gear as a cat steals fish, but
+will not touch your money, much as in a community of young men property
+is common to all with the same exception. They will lie if scared, or
+rather will substitute for the truth something they think you would like
+to hear, and they will do as little work as you will let them.
+
+But, have a bad case of sickness in the house and ask a man to go out at
+midnight with the carriage to get the doctor, or to go on horseback on
+his own horse twenty miles for medicine, and he goes as quietly and
+pleasantly as though he were going about the most commonplace work. He
+expects no tip, no extra wage, nor is he lauded as a hero. He may have
+come down, horse and all, in the dark, but is happy if he has not
+smashed the bottle of medicine, and he resumes his work on return, just
+as if he hadn't been up all night riding at a hard canter over broken
+ground full of holes and snags.
+
+No, he is by no means an ideal worker, neither is he half so bad as he's
+painted, and I'd rather meet him in the next world than lots of men who
+boss him in this.
+
+
+
+
+MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.
+
+
+
+MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN.
+
+
+Eighty square leagues of dense forest. One is inclined to feel a trifle
+small and overcome when this fraction of Mother Earth is put into one's
+hands (metaphorically), with orders to know all about it and to be able
+to answer all questions as to what is going on in it.
+
+The work is like most other occupations: not quite so romantic as it
+sounds at first, but as interesting as one cares to make it.
+
+One's main employment can best be illustrated by a leaf out of a mental
+diary.
+
+Fulano de Tal, axeman, wants credit for provisions at the almacen or
+general store--Has he sufficient wood cut to warrant it? It is the
+Mayor-domo's business to find out.
+
+With this end in view, he rides along "The Mangy" watercourse till he
+comes to the lowland of "The Blind Cow." The barking of half a dozen
+mongrel curs leads him into the edge of the forest, and he comes upon
+the residence of Fulano de Tal. The man has perhaps recently moved to
+this spot, and has not had time or energy to build himself a "rancho,"
+and therefore the homestead consists of about four yards of canvas
+stretched across the branch of a tree like the roof of a tent.
+
+Beneath this is a "New Home" sewing machine, a Brummagem bedstead, and a
+small trunk, made burglar-proof by innumerable bands and fastenings of
+bright tin, or even gilt wall-paper. Scattered around are the little
+Fulanos, in costumes varying from nothing to very little.
+
+Their mother ceases her cooking operations, wipes her hands on the
+nearest child's head, and invites the visitor to dismount.
+
+He answers that he is looking for her husband, and she directs him with
+a sweep of the hand which covers a quadrant of the compass and includes
+several square leagues of thick forest. Taking a likely track, however,
+he soon hears the ring of axe-strokes, and finds his man patiently
+chipping away at a felled tree, which is rapidly taking the form of a
+baulk, with the sides as smooth as if sawn.
+
+His horse is tied up near, and he takes the Mayor-domo through his
+"corte," showing him the wood prepared for the carters. Give him a
+chance and he will count every log twice (most likely he has already
+plastered mud over the marks which show the rotten patch in the wood,
+and is wondering whether he has cleared the black sufficiently off a
+piece of "campana" to persuade a reasonable man that it is really fresh
+wood).
+
+It is part of the inspector's stock in trade to know these and a myriad
+other tricks, too numerous to take separately.
+
+The typical axeman in the Santa Fe Chaco is more genuinely "childlike"
+than, and quite as "bland" as, the famous Celestial. He never quite
+grows up; he will spend his last dollar on a mouth-organ when he is
+forty, and give a wild war-whoop of delight as a stack of newly piled
+sleepers falls crashing to the ground.
+
+He loves sweets and the bright clothes which he wears with childish
+dignity on feast-days and holidays.
+
+His _amour propre_ is tremendous, and influences his code of honour to a
+great extent. The first ten commandments he will break most cheerfully,
+but the eleventh--"Thou shalt not be found out"--he respects to the best
+of his power.
+
+Stealing, for instance, he regards as a pastime, but call him a thief
+and you must be prepared for trouble. A perfect instance of this can be
+quoted in the case of an estanciero who found a peon wearing one of his
+shirts.
+
+[Illustration: _Square Quebracho Logs worked by the Axeman, showing
+Resin oozing therefrom._]
+
+"You are wearing my shirt," said the master. "No, Senor; I bought it in
+the store." "But you stole it from me," insisted the estanciero,
+pointing to the tab at the front, where his name was written in marking
+ink; "there is my name on it."
+
+The man, being quite illiterate, had not reckoned on such damning
+evidence, but he recovered himself and replied with dignity: "Very well,
+Senor; if it is yours, take it; _but don't call me a thief_."
+
+Honesty is with them, admittedly, a matter of degree. A man will always
+say if questioned about some small deficiency, "Do you think I would
+swindle you for a matter of two dollars?" or "Do you think I would risk
+my credit with the Company for the sake of _one_ calf?" To be honest in
+a case where a larger profit is involved is a height of integrity to
+which he does not even pretend. "I am going to be frank with you"--that
+is an expression which puts the wise man on his guard, for it is
+generally followed by a cascade of lies.
+
+Business must be done on a completely different basis to that which
+obtains in England. To return to our friend Fulano, for instance: he
+wishes perhaps to ask for an increase of fifty cents per ton on his
+wood, and introduces the subject by a short conversation about the
+points of his horse, passing on to the bad state of the bullocks and
+enlarging on the chance of a rainy winter. You have just decided that he
+has nothing more to say and are preparing to leave him, when he makes
+his request with as much circumlocution as possible. To have come
+straight to the point would have been contrary to all his ideas of
+correct procedure.
+
+I have heard two natives make one another's acquaintance with a bout of
+verbal sparring which an Englishman would obviate by a single sentence,
+such as "Good morning; Mr. Brown, I believe?" "Yes," the other would
+answer, and the business would be entered upon immediately.
+
+The Spanish blood, however, calls for some such dialogue as the
+following, which is taken from real life.
+
+_A._--"Good day."
+
+_B._--"Good day."
+
+_A._--"How are you, Senor?"
+
+_B._--"Very well, thank you, Senor; how are you?"
+
+_A._--"Very well, thank you."
+
+_B._--"I am glad."
+
+_A._--"Equally."
+
+_B._--"Don't mention it."
+
+_A._--"I am speaking to Mr. Juan Sosa?"
+
+_B._--"At your service."
+
+_A._--"At yours."
+
+_B._--"Equally."
+
+_A._--"It gives me great pleasure to know you."
+
+_B._--"Equally."
+
+They are flowery always, whether in greeting, praise, commendation, or
+in denunciation.
+
+In illustration of the last point, I once heard a cartman give vent to a
+quite Olympic challenge.
+
+His cart had stuck in a deep rut up to the axles, and he commenced
+operations by addressing his bullocks with tender words and soft names
+swiftly followed by lurid curses. This proving useless, he invoked
+higher powers, and called on his pet saints by name--"Help me, San
+Pedro, San Geronimo, Santa Lucia, San Juan." Still no result:--
+
+Then his patience failed entirely--"If you won't help me, San Pedro," he
+shouted, "come down and I'll fight you;" "Come down, San Juan, and I'll
+take you both on together."
+
+Still no reply.
+
+Taking his hat off he placed it on the ground, made the motion of
+clawing his guardians from the skies and placing them in his hat.
+
+"Stay there, San Geronimo; Stay there, San Juan; Stay there, San Marco."
+
+When his hat was full enough for his satisfaction he leapt into the air,
+came down on it with both feet, and continued to dance on it for about
+three minutes.
+
+Thus, for a real or imagined slight, the streak of black blood will show
+up and convert a friend into a relentless enemy.
+
+It is not surprising when one considers the lack of civilising
+influences which ought to be exerted from the top downwards, but which
+have no root in the highest power they know, which is the arm of the
+law. It might be interesting to note a few proofs of the corruption
+which exists among those who wield the local weapons of justice--among
+the commissaries, police, and justices of the peace.
+
+The Chief of Police of----, for instance, a town of only about 7,000
+inhabitants, refused L2,000 a year for the local gambling rights.
+
+Again, a gardener, whom I knew, was put in jail for being drunk and
+disorderly. On going to the place some time later I found the man still
+imprisoned. "Why," I asked, "for such a small offence"? "We found," was
+the answer, "that when sober he was such a good workman that we could
+not spare him from the job of cleaning the stables."
+
+On the other hand, a friend of mine was dissatisfied with the policeman
+he had, and sent the sergeant into the township to exchange him for
+another. The man returned with a particularly villainous-looking
+specimen, and when asked where he had got him, explained that the Chief
+of Police had told him to look among the prisoners for a suitable man,
+give him a uniform and take him.
+
+"I thought this was the best of them; but they all wanted to come," he
+concluded ingenuously.
+
+Another commissary in the north of this country flattered himself on his
+revolver-shooting, and used to perform the feat of shooting the hat off
+a man's head without hurting him. He was in the local bar one day when a
+peon entered with a brand new white hat; it was an opportunity not to be
+missed. Crack--and the man fell with a bullet through his temple instead
+of his hat.
+
+Did the Comisario stand stricken with remorse, or burst into
+self-reproach? No. He moved the body with the toe of his boot and
+remarked: "Carramba, I am getting a very poor shot nowadays."
+
+A story which was told me in the province of Rio Negro, and which was
+well vouched for, contained serio-comic elements of which I believe the
+perpetrator, whom I knew personally, quite capable.
+
+An old man who owned a considerable quantity of land, died intestate. A
+man who lived with him, Garcia by name, had no idea of letting the
+property go to distant unknown relations, and concocted the following
+plot (obviously with the connivance of the neighbouring Justice of the
+Peace, who was a friend of his).
+
+The law allows that a sane man "in articulo mortis," and past the power
+of speech, may make statements by signs: so when the Justice was
+summoned to the house, Garcia told him that the man was not yet dead,
+and wished to make his will.
+
+Garcia seated himself at the foot of the bed, while the Justice at the
+side addressed questions to the deceased on the following lines:--
+
+"Do you wish me to record your last will and testament?"
+
+The corpse nodded.
+
+"Do you wish your property to pass into your cousins' hands?"
+
+The head moved from side to side.
+
+"Do you intend to make Garcia your sole legatee?"
+
+The deceased nodded several times.
+
+Two witnesses were brought, and the business was settled with
+commendable promptitude.
+
+I think it was Garcia himself who explained, some time afterwards, that
+as the dead man wore a full beard and whiskers, it was easy enough to
+hide the strings passing from his ears and chin to the foot of the bed
+under the coverings.
+
+In this connection I have since heard that one of the legal ceremonies
+in a coroner's inquest in Central America is to solemnly ask the
+deceased who killed him.
+
+To return to the point, however; if such things exist among those in the
+highest positions of trust it is not surprising to find wholesale
+chicanery among the lower orders; that they realise their shortcomings
+is evidenced by the fact that if they wish to impress you with the truth
+of a statement, they add "palabra de Ingles," i.e., "on the word of an
+Englishman."
+
+Their Indian descent is answerable for a great deal, the white and black
+blood being so mixed that it is almost impossible to note the dividing
+line. Their dusky ancestors were blessed with an extremely limited
+intelligence, only being able to count up to four. The following
+incidents were related to me by an old estanciero. He once saw a
+trainload of Indian prisoners who had had oranges given them throwing
+the skins against the windows and showing great surprise when they fell
+inside.
+
+In another instance a woman came with her daughter to place her in
+domestic service at the estancia, and as the mother did all the talking,
+the estanciero's wife asked if the daughter could speak Spanish.
+
+"Oh, yes," answered the mother, "but she is barefoot, and would not
+presume to talk Spanish unless she had shoes on."
+
+This same girl at first insisted on turning up the carpet whenever she
+entered a room and walking along the boards at the side.
+
+I fear that I have given a black character to the people I work among,
+but there are lights as well as shades, and I have had many a weary
+hour's ride wiled away by the philosophy and anecdotes of some peon or
+small contractor, without mentioning the enjoyment of that hospitality
+which is a characteristic of the nation.
+
+Beside a camp fire, under the stars, while the mate pot passes from hand
+to hand, or when huddled under a horse cloth with the rain dousing the
+last embers, I have found the Correntino, or Santa Fecino, a cheery and
+uncomplaining companion, who compares well with the recently arrived
+Englishman, who, under the same circumstances, is generally sleepy or
+bad tempered.
+
+Treat him well and he will treat you well, but if it is necessary to
+chasten him for his soul's good, keep your hand a little nearer to your
+revolver than his is to his knife.
+
+DUST AND OTHER STORMS.
+
+
+
+
+
+DUST AND OTHER STORMS.
+
+
+Life in South America has many and varied experiences, though not so
+uncomfortably exciting perhaps to-day as they were, when more than three
+years seldom passed without a revolution of some kind, either national
+or provincial. The year 1893 was marked by two revolutions in Rosario,
+the first provincial and the second national, with perhaps little more
+than two months between them. It sounds terribly alarming to hear that a
+revolution has broken out, and pictures of the French Revolution
+immediately rise before one, but, fortunately, those of South American
+cities are not of that calibre; reports and rumours fly about of the
+terrible things that are going to be done, but these generally end in
+rumour, and after a few persons, those who have nothing to do with the
+movement, have been killed, probably by soldiers letting off their
+rifles up some street just on the chance of hitting something (often
+that at which they are _not_ aiming), the revolution fizzles out very
+quickly.
+
+In the second revolution of 1893 great excitement was caused in Rosario
+by a revolutionary gunboat being pursued by a Government boat and a
+naval battle (!) being fought on the river outside Rosario. These two
+boats blazed away at each other till the revolutionary gunboat was
+reduced to a wreck; the Government boat then threatened to turn its guns
+on Rosario unless the revolutionists capitulated. The town was given
+twenty-four hours to decide, and, after various disasters, including a
+terrible battle, had been threatened, as usual the revolution came to a
+sudden end, on this particular occasion owing to the revolutionist
+leader, D. Alem, committing suicide. That same year, 1893,
+distinguished itself by drawing to a close with three of the most
+terrible dust storms ever seen in a country that, after any lengthened
+period of dry weather, suffers from dust storms of a greater or lesser
+degree. The first of these occurred early in December, after many months
+of drought, on a brilliantly sunny afternoon. Standing at the front door
+of a house at Fisherton, a suburb about six miles from Rosario, we
+noticed right down in the S.W., on the horizon, great banks of
+grey-looking clouds, which, to our surprise, seemed to be rolling
+rapidly up the sky towards us. They had a most alarming appearance, for
+these masses of grey cloud approaching so rapidly seemed to portend a
+storm of terrible force. In less than twenty minutes from the time we
+first saw the clouds the afternoon had changed from brilliant sunshine
+to pitchy darkness. So rapidly had the darkness come on us that no one
+was prepared, and no matches or lights were forthcoming; so there we
+stood in a room in absolute darkness, no glimmer of light even revealing
+where the windows were situated in the room. Though all doors and
+windows were closely shut, we could feel the dust entering in clouds
+through the cracks, making it quite unpleasant breathing. When the storm
+caught us we had to stand and wait, I must own with some fear as to how
+it was going to end. Up to this time the storm had come up and fallen on
+us in total silence: now, after about ten minutes of pitch darkness, we
+could hear in the far distance the wind coming. It came up with cyclonic
+force, and then everything in the way of tins and buckets began to be
+blown in every direction, and the horses to gallop about neighing,
+evidently very much frightened. The wind was the forerunner of the rain,
+which gradually began to clear the air, though, of course, for some time
+it rained mud, much to the detriment of the houses, and to anyone
+unfortunate enough to be caught out of doors in the storm; indeed, one
+of our friends, who insisted on starting for the station just as the
+storm descended on us, was found crouching under his umbrella by one of
+the posts of the railway fence, with a face as black as a sweep's, and,
+by then, deeply repentant that he had started for the station against
+advice. Indeed, many caught out in camp by the storm lost their lives
+through falling into wells, and, in some cases, the river. But,
+fortunately, nowadays--principally, I fancy, owing to the larger area of
+country under cultivation--these dust storms do not recur.
+
+
+
+
+LOCUSTS.
+
+
+During the past century considerable study has been centred upon the
+life and habits of the locust, mainly from the desire to seek its
+subjugation and destruction, and, whilst much general biological
+information has been written upon the subject, there are things which we
+do not yet know about this insect or its habits. We do not know what
+precise influences cause their migration, nor do we know what is the
+exact length of life of the locust or its breeding power, or the precise
+locality in any country which may be defined as its permanent abode.
+Locusts are classified under the order of orthopterous insects of the
+family Acrydiidae, and are very closely related to grasshoppers.
+
+There are a large number of species, the differentiating features being
+more or less the form and sculpture of protorax, the size of the head,
+the length and size of the prosternal spine, the comparative length and
+size of the hind thighs and shanks, the amount and arrangement of the
+tegmina mottlings, the comparative length of wings, and the general
+build of the entire insect, which may be robust or fairly slender.
+
+A general description of the distinctive physical features of migratory
+locusts might be given as a strong, wild-looking head, a strong collar
+inside which the neck moves, powerful and peculiarly-formed legs
+attached to a short, strong, square trunk or thorax, four wings, two
+antennae or feelers, six legs, and a long segmentary abdomen. The ground
+colour of the locust is generally brownish, straw, or red, but its
+colour varies somewhat according to the particular season of the year
+or some other peculiar circumstance, but nothing certain is known as to
+what influences the shade of colour. Mere ground colour is immaterial
+and does not signify a new species.
+
+Besides having a pair of compound eyes which form so noticeable a
+feature in its head, there are three other simple little eyes, placed
+like shining dots at three angles of a triangle below the two feelers.
+
+The mouth, which is a fearful apparatus, consists of nine distinct and
+well-marked organs; an interior or upper lip, consisting of a plate
+deeply cleft and capable of opening enormously; two true jaws or
+powerful mandibles; and two pairs of jointed organs called (maxillary)
+palpi, and two lower jaws. The mandibles and jaws move laterally from
+right to left.
+
+The thorax or trunk consists really of three rings. To the first is
+attached the two front legs; to the second, the two middle legs and the
+first pair of wings, and to the third, the two hind legs and the second
+pair of posterior wings. Along the posterior margin is a well marked
+serrated (spinous) arrangement by means of which the locust adheres and
+grips forcibly. The trunk appears to be full of a fatty sort of
+substance.
+
+The abdomen consists of a number of horny segments which are joined
+together by an elastic membrane, a construction which enables the insect
+to extend its body several centimetres beyond its normal extent. It can
+also be increased in thickness.
+
+The front and middle feet of this insect are short and weak, but the
+length, strength, and formation of the hind legs enable it to take
+extraordinary leaps. A full-grown locust can jump seven or eight feet in
+height, whilst it is said to be able to leap more than 200 times the
+length of its body.
+
+The female is normally larger by 1/4 or 1/2 inch in length than the
+male, and has a rather thicker body.
+
+The average length of the migratory locust is from 2-1/2 to 3 inches and
+about 3/8 inch in thickness in the abdomen. Locusts generally lay their
+eggs in the spring, and the manner in which the females, having selected
+a favourable site, make an excavation in the earth for depositing their
+eggs is intensely interesting and wonderful.
+
+At the very extremity of the abdomen the female has two pairs of horny
+valves or hooks, each pair placed back to back with their points
+directed outwards, and arranged so that all four hooks can be brought
+with their points close together. By this means a sharp pointed lever is
+formed which can be turned around, evolved, and forked. With this
+apparatus she drills a small hole and by means of a series of muscular
+efforts and the continuing opening and closing of the valves provided
+with the formation of the abdomen, she actually bores to a depth of 6 to
+7 centimetres, or about 3 inches. Here she deposits her eggs--normally
+about eighty--regularly arranged in a long cylindrical mass and
+envelopes them in a spumous or sort of glutinous secretion, so that the
+whole are quite tapped up and level with the surface of the ground. This
+substance when dried is more or less impassable and affords protection
+to the eggs from the elements and secures an easy outlet to the surface
+for the young locust when hatched. The eggs resemble in shape grains of
+small rice and are about 1/4 inch long.
+
+The eggs hatch in from twenty-five to sixty days, usually about forty
+days, but the period may vary a little according to temperature,
+humidity, etc. The young locusts are known as "hoppers," in which stage
+they pass some forty-five or fifty days before arriving at the fully
+developed stage known as "fliers." To reach the "flying" or "migratory"
+stage they pass through six different states, changing the colour of
+their skin several times, gradually approaching to full growth, and
+finally growing wings.
+
+They have no quiescent stage, and whilst they are naturally yet
+incapable of flight, their locomotive powers are very considerable, and
+they are very destructive, for their voracity is great. Comparatively
+speaking, the flying locusts do less damage to the growing crops than
+the hoppers, who devour everything clean before them.
+
+It is interesting to state that the "hoppers" in the first stage are in
+length about 7 to 9 mm., or not quite one-third of an inch, and that the
+feelers have thirteen divisions, extending to twenty-seven divisions at
+full growth.
+
+During the cold weather they usually gather together in thousands,
+clinging closely to all kinds of vegetation and to each other. In this
+season the general rule seems to be that comparatively little food is
+taken of any kind. For the purpose of watching the development of their
+eggs, several hundred locusts have been opened during the winter months
+by entomologists, and invariably their cases have been found empty.
+
+Perhaps the most feasible suggestion as to the cause of their migratory
+impulse is that locusts naturally breed in dry sandy districts in which
+food is scarce, and are thus impelled to wander in order to procure the
+necessaries of life.
+
+The rate of travel varies according to circumstances. With an
+unfavourable wind, or little wind, they seldom travel more than five
+miles an hour. At other times, when the wind is favourable, they will
+cover fifteen to twenty miles per hour. When on the wing it is certain
+that a distance of 1,000 miles may, in particular cases, be taken as a
+moderate estimate of flight, and whilst, probably, it is often much
+less, it is sometimes much more. Their height of flight has been
+variously estimated at from forty to two hundred feet. "A dropping from
+the clouds" is a common expression used by observers when describing the
+apparition of a swarm.
+
+It will not be denied that the presence of locusts in force constitutes
+a terrible plague. They make their appearance in swarms and eat up
+everything. It is wellnigh impossible to estimate the number in a cloud
+of locusts, but some idea may be formed from the fact that when they are
+driven, as sometimes is the case in a storm, into the sea and drowned,
+so many are washed ashore, that it is said by one observer that their
+dead bodies formed a bank of nearly 40 miles long and 300 yards wide,
+and many feet in depth, and the stench from the corruption of their
+bodies proceeded 150 miles inland.
+
+When a swarm of locusts temporarily settles in a district, all
+vegetation rapidly disappears, and then hunger urges them on another
+stage. Such is their voracity that cannibalism amongst them has been
+asserted as an outcome of the failure of other kinds of food.
+
+Locusts have their natural enemies. Many birds greedily devour them, in
+fact a migratory swarm is usually followed by myriads of birds,
+especially sea gulls; they are often found 150 to 200 miles inland.
+Often a flock of gulls will clean up a "manga" of locusts; they devour
+them by thousands, and will then go to a neighbouring laguna, take a
+little water, and throw up all they have eaten, and at a given signal go
+off again to fill up with more locusts, only to repeat the operation
+time after time. Predatory insects of other orders also attack them,
+especially when in the unwinged state. They have still more deadly foes
+in parasites, some of which attack the fully developed locust, but the
+greater number adopt the more insidious method of attacking the eggs.
+
+Many inventions have been brought out with the object of exterminating
+the locusts, some of which, at least, have doubtless been partly
+successful, but determined and combined effort by the nation and land
+proprietors is imperative if the remedial and preventive measures
+proposed are to reap the success hoped for.
+
+The Agricultural Defence Department reports having spent $10,561,540 mn.
+from 1st January, 1909, to 31st May, 1910, in fighting the locusts. The
+total area invaded was 135,000,000 hectares (about 337,500,000 acres).
+
+From 1892 to date, and with what is required for the present year,
+$54,000,000 have been spent in combating locusts and like plagues to
+agriculture.
+
+
+
+
+CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC.
+
+
+The life of a conscript is more agreeable than most people in the
+Argentine Republic imagine it to be, although it has its disadvantages
+as well as its advantages.
+
+Every year all over the Republic a drawing takes place, calling to arms,
+for a year in the Army or two in the Navy, Argentines who have attained
+the age of twenty-one. At an average 12,000 to 15,000 are called out
+every year and distributed in the different regiments, according to
+height; from 1.75 metres upwards to Cavalry, middle height to Infantry,
+and short men to Artillery.
+
+For eight months the troops are drilled daily, and at the end of this
+period a big manoeuvre is held in which every regiment has to take part.
+This manoeuvre is divided into two parts: in the month of September all
+troops pertaining to the I., II., and IV. Regions are mobilised, and in
+November those of the III. and V.
+
+The daily routine is as follows: At 4 a.m. at the call of a bugle all
+troops have to rise, and the roll is called over; at 4.30 a.m. coffee is
+served; at 5.0 every morning orders are given to saddle-up horses and
+arm, and they have to be ready to leave the barracks at 5.30 for morning
+drill on horseback or to go to the shooting range, according to the
+time-table; the drilling continues till 10 o'clock, at which hour the
+troops are due back at the barracks, having to go through a course of
+drilling on foot up till 11 o'clock.
+
+At 11 o'clock the troops have to turn out and clean and brush down their
+horses until 11.30, at which hour lunch is served out; after which they
+are allowed to do as they like (except leave the barracks) till 1.30
+p.m.; from 1.30 to 3 p.m. the troops are drilled on foot, and at 3 p.m.
+"Mate-cocido" is served out; at 3.30 they have to attend class until
+4.30 p.m., either on "Campaign Service," "Military Duties or Laws," or
+on the "Carabine or Sword"; every other day class is given on the
+different parts of a horse, and on how to look after and clean same.
+From 4.30 to 5.30 p.m. there is revision and cleaning of arms. At 5.30
+dinner is served out, after which those who have leave are allowed out
+until 10 p.m., or in some cases until 4 a.m. next morning.
+
+Those drawn for the Navy have to go through a preliminary course of
+training on shore before being sent on board the training ship
+"Sarmiento," which every two years leaves Buenos Aires for a trip round
+the world, occupying, on an average, eighteen months.
+
+There are certain allowances made for students, who at the age of
+nineteen are allowed to enlist in the 8th Cavalry, where they have to
+serve for three months. At the end of this period they are put through a
+very severe examination, and should they pass, are promoted to the grade
+of Sub-Lieutenant of the Reserve, having to serve for a month every year
+in a regiment allotted to them.
+
+The advantages of conscription are many. It brings half-breeds from all
+parts of the Republic in touch with civilization, it teaches them
+obedience, respect for their superiors, and, above all, how to shoot.
+After their year's service they leave the barracks knowing a good deal
+more about things in general than when they entered them.
+
+There is also the better class of lads to be considered. Conscription
+teaches them a few things also, viz., to knuckle down (which is a great
+failing of the Anglo-Argentines), and be made to do things which they
+have not been accustomed to, clean out stable, etc., and look after
+their equipment properly, as anything they may happen to lose is
+deducted from their wages, which are very small, $5 per month.
+
+The food in the Army is good and plentiful: there is coffee in the
+morning on rising, a mid-day meal and dinner, which are usually similar,
+consisting of soup and "puchero" (a national dish made of beef and
+vegetables boiled), and an occasional dish of "pulenta" (boiled maize).
+
+The general treatment in the barracks is good. There are cases of
+miscarriage of justice and ill-treatment, but these are rare. A
+conscript may have to suffer punishment although in the right, and is
+not allowed to protest his innocence against an officer until after he
+has completed his punishment.
+
+
+
+
+ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901.
+
+
+Recollections of a journey from the Peruvian port of Mollendo to the
+Bolivian interior, which the writer made in the year stated, are here
+transcribed. No rhetorical merit is claimed, facts only are related, and
+the compiler of the manuscript only hopes that his efforts may, in part
+at least, justify a cursory perusal, without exhausting the patience of
+the readers, or overtaxing their indulgence. These notes are transcribed
+nearly ten years after the trip was made, and any readers who may have
+visited Bolivia at a more recent date are requested to make allowance
+for such modifications or change of conditions of which they can be the
+only judges.
+
+I have crossed the Andes Chain in other places farther south, in Chile;
+but on this occasion I will confine my observations to the trip as
+headed.
+
+Mollendo is one of the worst ports on the Pacific coast, but is of some
+importance on account of the fact that the railway through Peru to Lake
+Titicaca starts here. All vessels have to lie at least half a mile from
+the land on account of the constant heavy swell, and the landing is
+always attended by a certain amount of danger, so much so that not
+infrequently passengers have to be "slung" on to the landing stage in
+baskets made for the purpose. Like most of the South American coast from
+Valparaiso northwards there is little or no vegetation, and the scenery
+is not of the kind generally associated with tropical climes, of which
+one reads so much. Sand dunes and waste meet the eye on all sides, and
+the traveller for the interior is generally glad when the railway
+journey commences.
+
+Of the country through which the railway takes one there is not much to
+be said, but the attention of the traveller is at once called to the
+marvellous ingenuity of the famous engineer Meiggs, who built the
+railway. Gradually rising as the coast recedes, the train reaches
+Arequipa, at an elevation of 7,500 feet, and distant from Mollendo about
+200 miles. Arequipa has about 45,000 inhabitants, and, while rather
+prettily situated in a small valley surrounded by high volcanoes, it
+does not have anything of particular interest to attract one. Moreover,
+it suffers frequently from earthquakes, which does not surprise one when
+you look at the giant volcano "El Misti," towering up to 18,000 feet, at
+no great distance off. The houses are all built with "vaulted"
+foundations, the better to resist the "earth-tremblings," but on this
+occasion I did not experience any shocks.
+
+Leaving Arequipa behind, the ascent continues until the highest point is
+reached at Crucero Alto, where a notice board indicates that we are now
+14,666 feet above sea level. It is before reaching this altitude that
+the wonderful enterprise of the engineer shows up. The line goes on
+winding and climbing, twisting back again but always ascending, for
+hours, until a point is reached where passengers, looking down from the
+carriage windows, may see right below them, only a few feet down, the
+actual railway track over which they have passed an hour before. At one
+place there are actually _three tracks visible,_ one right below the
+other, just like steps and stairs, and I believe there is nothing quite
+like it in Argentina. Leaving Crucero Alto the descent is very gradual
+until Puno is reached, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, but still at an
+altitude of 12,000 feet or more. I did not actually see the town, which
+is a short distance from the station, but went straight on board the
+"Coya," the steamer which was to ferry us across to Chililaya or Puerto
+Perez, on the Bolivian side of the immense lake.[F] The distance in this
+direction is about 110 miles, and the passage was made in ten hours,
+during the night, so that I had not on this occasion an opportunity of
+seeing the surrounding scenery.
+
+On another occasion I saw too much of it, as the steamer missed the
+canalized strip which extends several miles out from Puno, and we
+remained hard aground for thirty hours. We had over a hundred Japanese
+passengers--immigrants going to the rubber country--and all armed with
+huge revolvers; but as the food lasted out until we were relieved by
+another small steamer belonging to the railway company they were kept in
+good humour, and they gave no trouble at all. Before floating again
+about 100 tons of cargo had to be transhipped to the other steamer, and
+when we again got into the deep channel it was again transferred to the
+s.s. "Coya." This latter boat was about 150 feet long; it was quite a
+comfortable boat, and the food and bedding were decent, when you
+consider the part of the world you were in. The bill of fare and wine
+list contained many quaint delicacies, and I shall never forget how the
+printer of same spelt the word indicating Scotch wine (commonly known as
+whisky). He was quite phonetic from the Spanish point of view, and the
+word read "Gueiscki," but it tasted all right.
+
+Landing at the Bolivian side of Puerto Perez, the immense plateau which
+covers all the centre of Bolivia stretches out on all sides landwards,
+until it meets the inner and higher range of the Cordilleras.
+
+La Paz, the then capital of Bolivia, on account of the fact that the
+President, General Pando, lived there, was our next objective point,
+and we found the old "Diligence Coach," drawn by eight horses, awaiting
+to convey us the forty-two miles across the plain. This part of the
+journey is most uninteresting, and the road was only fair. All along it
+is the same level, stony ground, entirely devoid of trees, and covered
+completely with large, round stones. These latter the Indians have to
+gather in heaps, and thus make some open patches for growing their
+potatoes and grain, which, with their "Chalona," or sheep dried in the
+sun, are their principal foodstuffs throughout the year. Besides, the
+surplus produce is conveyed to the larger towns on llamas, and there
+realised to the best advantage. It is a very interesting sight every
+Sunday morning to see the "market," and the curio hunter would just be
+in his element, as not only do the Indians bring in vegetables and
+fruits, but all sorts of native silver in quaint shapes, and ornaments
+made by the Indians themselves can be picked up very cheaply. The
+dresses of the Indian squaws are also very picturesque, and, as far as I
+can remember, red, green, and bright yellow were the dominating colours.
+But I am getting away from the main subject.
+
+Right ahead of us there is the gigantic Illimani, silent and majestic,
+with its perpetually white crown rising 22,000 feet above sea-level. One
+begins to wonder where La Paz can be, as the plain seems to extend right
+to the foot of the mountain. Keeping steadily on, however, the coach
+eventually arrives at the brink of a hitherto unnoticed hollow, and the
+scene that here awaits the traveller is magnificent in the extreme. To
+describe the view baffles my limited vocabulary. There you are looking
+down on the roofs of the houses in La Paz, which lies snugly 1,200 feet
+below you. It just seems that you could drop a stone on to them, so
+precipitate are the cliffs; but it is the enormous drop that deceives
+the eye, because, of the route over which the coach passes, six miles
+have yet to be traversed before getting into the town. I have seen La
+Paz from the top of the "Cuesta" both by day and night, and the latter
+effect, while losing much of its grandeur and magnificence, on account
+of the darkness, almost surpasses in beauty that of the daylight vision.
+The whole city is lit up by electricity, and it just seems as if one
+were gazing _down_ on another firmament, if such a thing can be
+imagined. I repeat, that to fully appreciate this special scenery words
+fail me.
+
+Allow me to transgress once more. On the first occasion that I reached
+the top of the entrance to La Paz it was under rather "sporting"
+circumstances, which, I think, I may be excused for interpolating here.
+I had come on horseback and _alone_ from the mining town of Coro Coro,
+sixty-six miles off, and it is a very hard and tiring journey. The
+elevation above the sea varies from about 14,000 feet to 12,000 feet at
+the La Paz end, and therefore great speed is impossible on account of
+the rarity of the air. Apparently I had journeyed too fast for my horse,
+as the poor animal died when I was still eighteen miles from La Paz.
+Here was a nice "kettle of fish." It was all right enough as long as
+daylight lasted, but when darkness overtook me I was fairly "in the
+soup." Not knowing the road, and there being nothing to guide me and no
+one to consult, I simply walked along slowly, hoping to strike up
+against some Indian settlement, and pass the night somehow or other. I
+trudged along for goodness knows how long until I eventually did hear
+some sounds indicating that at any rate I was nearing some encampment or
+habitation. I could hear what was supposed to be music, and in the dark
+made my way, as near as I could judge, in the direction of the sound,
+and in about half an hour my efforts were rewarded, as I had overtaken a
+band of roving Indians, all in fancy dress, playing funny reed
+instruments and dancing continuously as they travelled. They could not
+speak Spanish, but at that time I knew sufficient of their
+language--"Aymara," as it is called--and soon explained to them my
+position. I was allowed to accompany them, as I found they also were
+bound for La Paz, and soon became a lifelong friend of theirs when I
+produced a small bottle of whisky which I had with me. The experience
+was of a unique nature for a white man, but I must confess I rather
+appreciated the novelty than otherwise, and when I reached La Paz about
+1 a.m. I felt that I had had quite an adventure, which might easily have
+had a more sinister termination, had my Indian escort shown the other
+side of their nature. Well, to come back to our old coach, which I think
+I left at the top of the La Paz entrance, I resumed my seat and got into
+the city at mid-day. I put up at an excellent hotel, of which there were
+several, and at once bethought me of looking for work, as the balance in
+my bank (otherwise my pocket) did not warrant my looking upon my visit
+to La Paz as one of pleasure only. At the time I write of there was one
+solitary Britisher resident in La Paz, and he was a Scotchman like
+myself. This was before the railway from Oruro was built, and he was
+proprietor of the coaches that ran, once a week, from La Paz to the
+south; and I understood had quite a remunerative business. La Paz is a
+peculiarly situated city, as the reader may imagine from my description
+of its position. The streets are mostly hilly and steep, with the
+exception of one or two which run parallel to each other on both sides
+of the valley, at the foot of, and in the centre of which flows, the La
+Paz river. This it bridged in about half a dozen places for horse
+traffic, and while, for most of the year, there is scarcely any water in
+the river, when the snow melts it is converted into a veritable roaring
+torrent; and I happened to be present during one of the most serious
+accidents that had ever occurred from this cause.
+
+It had rained very copiously for some days, and the river had risen
+enormously--in fact higher than ever before recorded--and many were the
+predictions as to how the bridges would stand the weight of water. The
+usual sightseers were about, and, unfortunately, a large number of them
+paid the penalty with their lives. They had been duly warned that a
+certain bridge was dangerous and threatened to give way, but this
+evidently excited their curiosity all the more; at any rate, a crowd
+tried to cross, with the result that the bridge tumbled into the raging
+stream, carrying with it over 200 people, and many of them were
+drowned--the exact number was never known.
+
+Quite an important city is La Paz, and a large number of wealthy
+mine-owners reside there, drawing their incomes from rich tin mines in
+the neighbourhood. There are also numerous stores from which the wants
+of the distant population that reside in the rubber country are
+supplied. The larger proportion of the inhabitants are Indians, and I
+cannot help remarking that the Bolivian Indians, men and women, are
+about the ugliest type of human creatures I have yet seen. Besides, they
+are very illiterate, and it is estimated that, of the total population
+of Bolivia, only about 30 per cent. can read or write. In the south,
+Aymara is chiefly spoken; but further north, Quechua is the commoner
+language. I saw several bull fights in the bullring of which the town
+boasts, but they were so very disgusting that I refrain from nauseating
+my readers with details.
+
+The Cathedral was only half completed when I was there, and I understand
+is still in the same condition. I was forgetting to mention that there
+was no British Minister or Consul in La Paz, and the story goes that, at
+some previous period, a Bolivian President compelled the British
+official representative to ride round the plaza seated on a donkey, but
+with his face to the tail; the consequence being that the Prime Minister
+of Great Britain figuratively wiped Bolivia off the map. Anything which
+we required from the Diplomatic Service had to be obtained through the
+medium of the British Minister resident in Lima, in Peru. This may now
+be altered, but I am not aware of the fact. I remained several months in
+La Paz in the employment of a Bolivian magnate, but the remuneration not
+being commensurate with my ambitions, I eventually arranged to accompany
+the proprietor of a very large rubber forest on a trip to his properties
+on the higher reaches of the River Amazon, and hence my privilege of
+being able to offer you a perusal of my experiences across the inner
+ranges of the Cordillera mountains. His daughter also accompanied him,
+and, although the journey is a most uncomfortable one in more ways than
+one, she stood the fatigue of many days' riding on mule-back, over
+trails which did not deserve the name of roads, just about as well as
+any of the rest of us.
+
+For a trip of this kind many provisions have to be made, as very little
+indeed can be procured on the journey in the way of good food or
+lodging. We accordingly had to carry our beds and bedding, and in fact
+everything we could think of in the form of clothes, food, firearms,
+and, of course, the necessary accompaniment in liquid form. Most of our
+baggage and what we might not require at a moment's notice we sent on
+ahead with a day's anticipation, and eventually on the 20th May, 1901,
+our caravan departed from the then capital of Bolivia, at 8 a.m. Our
+conveyance, to start with, consisted of a coach drawn by four mules, and
+it took much longer to climb the steep "Cuesta" than it had taken us to
+descend on previous occasions already mentioned. However, our animals
+were good and in about an hour and a-half we reached the top of the
+hill, and I took what proved to be my last view of La Paz City.
+
+The journey for the first forty miles is over the same ground as I have
+already referred to, in the direction of Lake Titicaca, and there is
+nothing more to be said about it, beyond that we changed animals at a
+place called Ocomisto, this being simply a few Indian huts where there
+is always a supply of grain and water for the animals, and the ordinary
+country fare for the passing traveller. There was a long journey ahead
+of us, so we only remained during the time that was occupied in
+outspanning the tired mules and inspanning the fresh lot. At 1 o'clock
+we reached Machacamarca, another "tambo" or resting-place, and were very
+disgusted to find that our pack animals, which we had dispatched the day
+before, had got no farther than this point. Our desired destination for
+the night was the Indian town of Achicachi, twelve leagues off, but as
+it was now quite out of the question to think of travelling our baggage
+animals so far before night should overtake us, we had to change our
+plans and therefore directed our coach towards Guarina, another Indian
+town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but much nearer than Achicachi, and
+we eventually arrived there at 5 p.m., having covered, more or less,
+fifty miles since morning. The journey seemed longer, as the country is
+so much alike all along the route; but as the roads were fair,
+travelling was quite comfortable.
+
+Guarina is purely an Indian fishing village, and the only white people
+are the Bolivian half-caste authorities. As I have already stated, there
+are no hotels or even lodging-houses in these Indian towns, and ordinary
+travellers have just to hunt about until they find a place suitable to
+put beds for the night. However, as my friend was a "personage" in
+Bolivia, in other words, a man of position and power in political
+circles, we of course fared considerably better than we should otherwise
+have done had he not been with us; and we were invited to put up in the
+house of one of these men in authority. He did his best for us in their
+frugal way of living, and gave us a meal consisting of "Chairo," which
+is soup as black as coal, and made from frozen potatoes which are called
+"chuno." These are about the size of walnuts, hard and black, and have
+to be well soaked before cooking, and then they are not a savoury bite.
+The next plate consisted of "Chalona," already described as lean sheep
+dried in the sun, and which, generally speaking, is very repugnant in
+appearance, smell, and taste. Never mind, we were hungry and partook of
+whatever was brought along, until the "inner man" cried content! The
+meal, I may add, was washed down with a cheap "wine" distilled from
+cheaper raisins, but it was something wet, and for the time sufficed.
+
+Our pack animals arrived at Guarina about 7 p.m., and we very soon had
+our things unpacked and occupied our beds, knowing that a pretty early
+start would be made in the morning. The night passed uneventfully, and
+at daybreak we got under way, bound for Achicachi, about five leagues
+off. There is still a road for vehicles to this town, and keeping along
+the shores of Lake Titicaca, we reached this larger Indian town about 9
+a.m. The population was about 5,000 Indians, but it is a very
+uninteresting, bleak spot, and we only remained long enough to have a
+square meal, which we were again fortunate enough to have provided for
+us by the reigning magistrate. That over, we then dispatched our coach
+on its return journey to La Paz, and thought of our other means of
+transport for the forward journey. Good mules we had sent ahead, and
+were now awaiting us saddled and ready, and we at last got started on
+this the more arduous part of our journey inland. Our destination for
+the night was Gualata, a small holding belonging to my fellow-traveller,
+and we reached it at about 1 o'clock, having climbed probably 2,000 feet
+higher up the mountains. Cultivation of cereals and potatoes is carried
+on on a limited scale, owing to the altitude, and taking it all round,
+the house, although comfortable enough, was situated in about as bleak
+and bare a spot as it is pretty well possible to imagine.
+
+Nevertheless, it was peopled by about sixty Indians, who turned out in
+true Indian style in their beautifully coloured robes and making
+horrible discordant noises which were intended for music--all, of
+course, to show their appreciation of their "patron." Here, of course,
+we got all we required, and as there were any amount of fowls to be had,
+our bill-of-fare improved in accordance. There was nothing to do
+specially, and we did not feel inclined to move about much at this
+elevation above the sea, so we were quite pleased when bed-time came
+round, and without any ceremony each retired to their respective couches
+_on the floor_. Owing to excessive cold, however, sleep was out of the
+question, and it was a relief when day dawned on May 22nd. After
+refreshing ourselves with a cup of tea we set out for Sorata, distant
+about six leagues. Travelling was now much slower as the roads were very
+bad, and in some places very steep and covered with loose stones. This
+made the foothold bad for the mules, but we trusted to the useful
+animals entirely, letting them go along on a loose rein to choose their
+own footing, which they did very successfully. We passed the Indian
+village of Illabaya, perched on the side of a hill, and all plotted out
+in small squares for the cultivation of vegetables, etc., of which we
+bought a supply for our own use. The highest point we passed was over
+14,000 feet, and then began the gradual descent into the pretty little
+town of Sorata, 6,000 feet lower down. The path was not of the best, and
+the pace was very slow; but the scenery was quite refreshing compared
+with what we had already passed through.
+
+Sorata is indeed very pretty and quaint, and although comparatively out
+of the world, a traveller can spend a short time there pleasantly, and
+personally speaking, the few days we remained were very enjoyable,
+thanks once more to my friend's influence. For a change we did not sleep
+on the floor, and by way of recreation I scented out a billiard table,
+not a good one, it is true, and the balls were rather elliptical; but as
+I had once personated the "Mikado," _a la Gilbert & Sullivan_, the
+conditions were not so disconcerting as they would doubtless have been
+to a less famous personage! Sorata, being the nearest town to the
+Bolivian rubber districts which export their products to the Pacific
+coast, is naturally of more consequence on that account, as all
+materials and merchandise for the interior must pass through the hands
+of the Sorata merchants, while the rubber exported to the coast also
+finds its way through the medium of Sorata agents.
+
+There is the usual plaza in the centre of the town, where the youth and
+beauty disport themselves in the way peculiar to these mountainous
+regions, which consists of walking round and round at a good pace to
+keep up the circulation, as the weather is nearly always cold in Sorata.
+Illampu, the competitor of Illimani and Aconcagua, and which claims to
+be the highest peak in South America, rises up magnificently right above
+and round the town, and visitors for the first time must really wonder
+how they are to find a road to cross these gigantic mountains, as the
+town appears to be so completely shut in.
+
+However, on 27th May we started to ascend the track forming the way to
+the interior, and got a fine send-off by the inhabitants, the more
+important of whom turned out to bid us adieu and wish us luck over a
+case or two of beer. The climb before us was a constant one for 18
+miles, and to-day we were to pass the highest point of our entire trip.
+This we reached about midday, at just under 16,000 feet. We were above
+the perpetual snow-line for a short time, and it was piercingly cold,
+besides we had to go slowly on account of the thin air, but we kept
+steadily on and reached an old mining establishment called "El Injenio"
+at 5 p.m., having done 24 miles in all since morning. There is a long,
+steep descent to the old mining camp by a narrow winding track cut out
+of the mountain side, and as the drop on one side to the little stream
+down below was about 40 to 50 feet, and there was no protecting fence of
+any kind, we decided to get off our mules, and accordingly completed the
+worst part of the way on foot, and of course this made travelling very
+much slower.
+
+Apparently, gold-washing had not been carried on for a very long time,
+as although the main building still has a roof, the whole place has a
+very deserted look about it; but, nevertheless, it still affords a
+covering for weary travellers like ourselves, and we soon began to
+select the most comfortable looking corners for our beds. There was an
+old Indian there who earns a meagre existence by selling forage to
+passing travellers for their beasts of burden; and he was also utilised
+by us for getting a fire ready and boiling water for a welcome cup of
+warm tea.
+
+One thousand feet above our heads, as it seemed, we could see Llane,
+another of these quaint, Indian hamlets, but the appearance of the
+exceedingly precipitate track up to it did not excite us in any desire
+to make the ascent. After partaking of some food, we got under our
+blankets in the usual way at sunset to once more sleep the sleep of the
+contented traveller. By 6.15 next morning we were again in the saddle
+and under way--the road was now even narrower than before, about two
+feet wide only--winding round and round the mountain side, ascending all
+the time, and in some parts far too steep for comfortable riding. From
+now onwards the journey was over tracks, not roads, and many of the
+ascents and descents were so steep that it was quite out of the question
+to attempt to negotiate them on muleback. We, accordingly, with
+philosophic patience had just to accept the inevitable, and get off and
+lead our animals over these now really dangerous parts. Some of the
+precipices down to the river bed were now much deeper, and had we slid
+over, we might have experienced considerable inconvenience at the
+bottom, and a greater difficulty in getting up again. The roads became
+worse and worse, and really they could be given no other name than
+"goat-tracks," but the mule is a wonderful beast, and let him have his
+head (on no account attempt to guide him), there is not much fear of any
+serious trouble. Our sleeping place for the night was to be at an old
+ruin of a house at a bare, but more level, opening in the mountains,
+called Tolapampa, and before reaching this we had to negotiate much the
+worst pass on the whole route. This is called the "tornillo" (screw),
+and it is a real corkscrew path, cut out of the mountain side at an
+angle of about 50 deg., and about 450 feet of a climb.
+
+Riding was of course impossible, and we scrambled more than walked until
+we safely got over the top, very tired and puffed out. The mules with
+their cargo followed our example, and it was wonderful to see how they
+kept their feet; as one false step might have sent them to the bottom,
+carrying everything behind them too, and on more than one occasion this
+has happened, the animals falling, generally being killed outright in
+the fall. Pushing on as fast as possible, it was not till 4 o'clock p.m.
+that our residence for the night loomed in view, and it did not inspire
+one that it could supply much in the way of home comforts. Sure, the old
+hovel had walls and a roof, but beyond that there were no windows, and
+where the door ought to have been there was only a hole in the wall, but
+nothing to close it with to keep out the intense cold.
+
+We, of course, knew when we started that we would have to rough it, so
+there was no use grumbling now, and therefore set about at once to get
+something to make a fire with. With great good fortune we, after a great
+deal of searching and gathering, obtained some old rubbish that burned.
+I say with good luck, because this is a treeless region yet, at an
+elevation of 10,000 feet, and fuel is naturally always at a premium. For
+cooking it did not matter so much, as we had a spirit lamp, but it was
+to warm our bodies and keep up our spirits that made the fire so
+desirable. Darkness was on us before we finished our evening meal, and
+we looked forward to the night with no very pleasant forebodings--and it
+did turn out a tiresome night--it rained all the time and the cold was
+extreme--so much so, that we eventually sat up most of the time, hoping
+by daylight to move on to a more charitable atmosphere.
+
+I think I should not miss this opportunity of relating an experience of
+mine when I journeyed over the same route on another occasion. Then I
+was only accompanied by two Indians--no white people--and was travelling
+towards Sorata. I remember very well we reached Tolapampa, already
+described, in the afternoon, it having rained constantly all day. I was
+suffering from malaria very acutely, and the high levels at which we had
+been travelling also affected me grievously. I arrived at Tolapampa
+soaked to the skin, shivering cold, and really more dead than alive. To
+aggravate matters we could not light a fire--everything was wet--and I
+can assure you it was anything but a bright outlook for us. Another gang
+of about ten Indians also turned up, and we did look a sorry lot.
+However, these natives, seeing that I was so weak (I had had malaria
+almost constantly during the previous six months), did all they could to
+get me to "buck up," and kept moving me backwards and forwards to warm
+myself, which operation I well remember was a very tedious one. They
+also tried to get me to eat of their cold frugal fare; but that was
+beyond me; and after they decided it was time to rest for the night, I
+scrambled in _amongst them_--Indians all round me--so as to benefit from
+the heat of their bodies. It was neither a very pleasant nor a very
+clean position that I occupied, and I can hardly realise how I had the
+courage to do what I did; but the facts remain the same, and at any rate
+I got some rest.
+
+It poured all night, and when at daybreak I suggested to my men that it
+was time to start, they positively refused to move until the rain
+ceased. I brought all my persuasive powers to bear, but it was of no
+avail, and as I had decided to go on alone, all I got out of them was a
+promise they would follow me at 10 o'clock. It was very disappointing,
+but I was determined to get forward at all cost. I therefore started on
+my lonely journey at eight o'clock, with the rain, and at times sleet,
+coming down in bucketfuls; I could hardly see in front of me at times,
+and it was destined to be a trip of which I shall always retain very
+vivid recollections. On this occasion, owing to the excessive rains, all
+the little mountain streams, which under normal circumstances are of no
+inconvenience to travellers, had been converted into veritable roaring
+torrents, causing me on more than one occasion to think twice before
+attempting a crossing. To condense matters as much as possible, let me
+remark that it rained all day; travelling was not only difficult but
+positively dangerous, and I, being so ill, could hardly keep my seat on
+my mule. All this made travelling so slow that I was still a long way
+from "El Injenio," my objective point for the night, when darkness
+overtook me. I had the narrow, dangerous paths to go along which I have
+already described, and I therefore did not trust to getting over them on
+muleback, but took the safer and, in my opinion, more sensible plan of
+leading my animal. This was tedious work, but it was to become worse
+very soon. I arrived at one of those swollen mountain streams, the
+appearance of which in the darkness fairly frightened me. My mule would
+not look at it, and for a while I did not know exactly what to do. I
+could judge that it was four or five feet deep, and rushing past at a
+great rate. Neither mule nor I could ever have hoped to keep our feet if
+we had attempted crossing, as it was about thirty feet wide. I left my
+mule and commenced to reconnoitre along the side, when I came to what
+had been a bridge, but which was partly washed away, leaving a gap of
+about four feet in the middle, as far as I could judge in the uncertain
+light, and over which it was impossible for a mule to go. Leaving my
+mule, I made a good jump, and, fortunately, got over all right, but,
+after all, I did not know in the least where I was, and, before
+attempting to return to my animal, I started to go forward in the hope
+of at least striking some sheltered spot where I might pass the night.
+Meantime, however, I heard a crash, and, as it turned out, away had gone
+the remainder of the bridge, leaving me on one side, and now completely
+isolated from my mule and saddle-bags. There was no use fretting, so I
+continued moving on--it was now dark--feeling my way, and keeping very
+carefully away from the river. I had not proceeded very far before my
+progress was all too suddenly arrested. I did not until the next morning
+know what actually did take place, but the facts are as follows: In
+groping my way along I had actually been walking on the very edge of a
+sort of precipice, and apparently had simply stepped over the side. At
+any rate, I rolled to the bottom, which, luckily for me, was only about
+fifteen feet; but it was quite a bump, and I wondered where I had
+actually landed. As it was so black, and I did not know anything of my
+surroundings, I simply made up my mind to remain where I had fallen
+until morning. I ought to tell you that, although I had plenty of
+matches, they were all wet with the rain, so that they would not light,
+and I had to remain in darkness all night. My saddle-bags were with the
+mule, and I did not even know now where the animal might be. I was
+soaking wet, shivering with ague, nothing to eat, plenty of cigarettes
+and matches, but unable to smoke or even make a light, so my
+disagreeable plight can to some extent be imagined. Moreover, there were
+about six inches of water all round me, so that I could not attempt to
+sleep. The cold was intense, and I can safely say that I never spent
+such a long, disagreeable, and dreary night in all my previous
+experience, and I hope never to be compelled to do so again. There are
+bears in this district also, but I am thankful to say that I was not
+molested in any way.
+
+Towards morning the rain slackened, and when daylight came I never felt
+more thankful in my life. I climbed out of my nest, and there, only
+about a hundred yards away, was my faithful mule standing exactly as I
+had left him. I waited until the water in the stream had gone down
+sufficiently, and crossing on foot, with the water about two feet deep,
+I mounted my mule, and then recrossed on muleback. I knew from the
+number of hours I had travelled on the previous day I could not be far
+from Injenio, and I was right, as in less than an hour I saw my
+destination right ahead of me. I was in a pitiful condition, and could
+hardly stand up. The old Indian recognised me and got me dry wraps after
+a fashion, and I got under his dry blankets. I could not eat, but I
+drank a large quantity of "Aguardiente," which at least put some life
+into me. In the meantime I did not know what had become of my pack
+animals and Indians, but I was not in a state to worry about them, and
+didn't. Instead, I kept my bed for about thirty hours, until I was
+revived somewhat. Then, luckily, my men turned up, and I was able to
+continue my journey to Sorata.
+
+Well, we left Tolapampa about 6 a.m., and for the best part of the day
+the route was over country very similar to that passed on the previous
+day; but we were descending rapidly now, and the temperature became
+perceptibly much warmer, in fact, by the afternoon we had indications
+that soon we should arrive in the "montes," where we would have
+vegetation in abundance, and consequently we would at least have some
+shade during the heat of the day. The road, nevertheless, continued to
+be very rough and broken, and we had frequently to dismount and lead our
+animals for long distances at a time. The long pass of Margurani was
+unusually tiring, as it was down hill most of the time, and over loose
+rocks and stones, which were very hard on our poor feet. Pararani, a
+small stopping-place, was reached about 2 p.m., and as both we and the
+animals had just about had enough of it, we decided to remain for the
+night.
+
+We were now right in tropical surroundings, and the beautiful palms and
+ferns, not to mention the magnificent butterflies of all colours, were a
+grateful contrast to the scenery we had been accustomed to since we left
+Sorata. We were now only about two thousand feet above sea level, and
+the weather was very hot indeed, mosquitoes and other worrying insects
+were very plentiful; but, bad as they can be, they seemed trivial
+troubles compared with what we had come through. At this "puesto" we
+were better treated, as we obtained vegetables, bananas, and oranges,
+and with our tinned stuffs made quite a decent repast. The place was
+owned by a Spaniard, and he, along with his wife, cultivates a little
+piece of ground, and supplied passing travellers with general rations
+for both man and beast. The place was clean in comparison with what we
+had been accustomed to, and we seemed to sigh a mutual sigh of content
+at our good luck in reaching this "oasis." We rested all afternoon, and
+got to bed early, and, although there were rats about, I slept "like a
+log," I was so fearfully tired.
+
+In the morning, however, I awoke refreshed, and with our usual
+punctuality got away at 6 o'clock, feeling that at last we were nearing
+our journey's end, as we now directed our animals' heads towards
+Copacabana, the nearest of the rubber forests belonging to my friend.
+This was only three or four leagues off, and the going was somewhat
+improved also, so our progress was a good deal faster than usual. During
+the greater part of the present journey, the weather, so far, had been
+fairly good, that is, taking into consideration the high regions through
+which we had come, but we were not fated to be so successful on this our
+last day. In fact, we had not gone far, when a really characteristic
+tropical shower baptized us properly, and continued during the whole of
+the rest of the day, the result being, as may be imagined, that we
+arrived at "Copacabana" like the proverbial "drookit mice." As the path
+was beneath the trees all the way, we got the full benefit of the rain
+dripping from the branches overhanging, which was just like a shower
+bath all the time. However, I got into dry clothes, and, I think, felt
+when I got into the Estancia house, that after all the "roughing," the
+trip was, in part, compensated for by the new experiences I had gone
+through, making my way over these very mountainous regions at such a
+very high elevation.
+
+However, I remained for over a year in the rubber districts, and had an
+opportunity of seeing how the work is carried on and of judging of the
+enormous profit which must result to the lucky owners. Unfortunately,
+the climate is of the very worst, and the malaria being of a very
+malignant nature, is very hard on white people. I had my full share of
+this "terciana," as it is called, and sometimes wonder how I really
+managed to work my way to the outside world again.
+
+In conclusion, let me express a modest hope that the perusal of my
+humble effort to put personal adventures on paper may at least convey to
+the reader some idea of what has to be experienced if one chooses to be
+a wanderer like myself in remote places, and that he or she may to a
+certain extent enjoy the result nominally, without going through the
+hard work involved in the actual performance.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[F] Allow me to remind the reader that Lake Titicaca is the highest
+water in the world which is navigated by steam.
+
+[Illustration: _Loading Wheat at the Port of Buenos Aires._]
+
+
+
+
+PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES.
+
+
+The first Custom House built for the port of Buenos Aires was in 1603.
+The only work carried out in the harbour up to the end of the eighteenth
+century was the construction of thirty-five metres of brick quay-wall at
+the site of the "Arsenal" on the Riachuelo. We find that although
+between the years 1852 and 1858 many plans were presented for building
+of piers, these were only carried into practice and built by the
+Government under the technical direction of Engineer E. Taylor; a new
+Custom House replacing the fortress, a timber pier for loading and
+unloading goods, and another pier for passenger traffic at the locality
+of the old mole. In the year 1878 the Riachuelo was first opened for
+traffic for sea-going ships, and in 1879, 197 vessels with 55,091
+tonnage had entered the Riachuelo. As early as 1862 Ed. Madero turned
+his attention to the question of docks for the port of Buenos Aires, and
+in 1865 applied for permission to construct them at his own cost, but
+the application was rejected. Four years later he presented another
+application, which suffered the same fate. In 1869 the total exports
+from Buenos Aires were 397,722 tons, the bulk of which were loaded at
+the Riachuelo, and steamers over 100 metres long frequented the harbour
+about the time of 1870. It was not until 1882 that Ed. Madero succeeded
+in obtaining the concession of building the docks for the port of Buenos
+Aires. The docks were to be constructed on the river side of the city,
+between the gasworks on the north and the Riachuelo River on the south.
+
+The trade of the City of Buenos Aires up to the time of the opening of
+the South Basin had nearly all been carried on between the shore and the
+steamers by lighters and small steam tenders. The usual anchorage for
+the ocean steamers was in the "bar anchorage," a distance of about
+fourteen miles from the city. The cargoes were transhipped into
+lighters, which brought them as near to the shore as possible, and from
+this point they were taken to the Custom House in specially-constructed
+carts with very large wheels. Passengers were transhipped in the bar
+anchorage into small tenders, and were brought to a point about 500
+metres from the end of the passenger mole. From these tenders, when
+there was sufficient water, they were taken ashore in small boats,
+while, if the water was too low to go alongside the mole, they also had
+to be brought ashore in carts. In many cases, however, passengers were
+brought on in tenders and landed at the Riachuelo wharves, which were
+then under construction. The first steamers that arrived in the River
+Plate were those of the Royal Mail Company, followed by the French
+Messageries Maritimes, and shortly afterwards by the Lamport & Holt
+Line.
+
+Up to the year 1870 these lines, and a few more that were started,
+progressed very slowly, although the rates of freight were then very
+high; but after that trade increased gradually, and not only a fair
+number of sailing-vessels arrived yearly, but the regular lines of
+steamers increased their number of sailings. The great drawback was the
+deficient state of the port, where steamers had to lie at a distance of
+fourteen to sixteen miles, and most of the sailing-vessels at ten to
+twelve miles from the shore. There was no channel dredged, and even the
+Riachuelo was so scantily supplied with water that lighters drawing
+seven to eight feet were sometimes for weeks prevented from getting out
+to deliver their cargo to the sea-going vessels in the outer roads. The
+discharge was exclusively effected into lighters, which, apart from the
+heavy expense incurred by the receiver of the goods, presented the great
+objection that a considerable portion of the cargo was often broached
+and pilfered before it reached the shore, claims for which had to be
+paid by the ship. Another point was that many of these lighters were old
+sailing-vessels or steamers, and, in the unseaworthy and leaky state
+they were in, often arrived with their cargo considerably damaged. On
+the completion of the South Basin on 28th January, 1889, passengers were
+able to embark or disembark with a little more comfort, and cargoes were
+landed on the quays. Docks 1 and 2 have each a water area of 23 acres,
+being 570 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,420
+metres. No. 3 Dock has a water area of 27 acres, is 690 metres long by
+160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,660 metres. No. 4 Dock has a
+water area of 25 acres, is 630 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a
+quay length of 1,535 metres.
+
+All these four docks, when they were originally finished, had a depth of
+23 feet 9 inches below low water, so that, however low the river may be,
+there should never be less than 23 feet 9 inches in the docks. Since
+then dredging has been going on and the docks have been deepened to
+receive larger vessels. The docks are united by passages 20 metres in
+width, each passage being crossed by a swing bridge. Dock No. 4 is
+entered at its northern end by the north lock. This lock opens into the
+North Basin, which has a water area of 41 acres and a quay length of
+1,409 metres and a depth of 21 feet 3 inches. The total area of the
+basins and the four docks is 174 acres, and the total length of quays
+8,482 lineal metres. The following are the dates the various basins and
+docks were opened to traffic:--
+
+    South Basin   ...   ...   ...   28th January, 1889
+    South Lock, Dock No. 1    ...   31st January, 1890
+    Dock No. 2    ...   ...   ...   26th September, 1890
+    Dock No. 3    ...   ...   ...   31st March, 1892
+    Dock No. 4, North Lock, North
+      Basin, and Graving Docks ...  7th March, 1897
+    First half of North Channel...  15th June, 1897
+    Second half of North Channel,
+      buoys and beacons  ...   ...  31st March, 1898
+
+The timber sea-wall was built to a level of 16 feet above low water, and
+the stone sea-wall to 19 feet. Originally there were built three sheds
+in the South Basin, three sheds and two warehouses in Dock No. 1, two
+warehouses and two sheds in Dock No. 2, five warehouses in Dock No. 3,
+and four warehouses in Dock No. 4, the total capacity of these sheds and
+warehouses being 525,510 cubic metres, and the floor area 192,800 square
+metres. Since then, several warehouses have been built, and some burnt
+down. The total cost of the harbour works as contracted for by Ed.
+Madero was $35,000,000 gold, or, say, about L7,000,000. This includes
+the South Basin, Dock No. 1, Dock No. 2, Dock No. 3, Dock No. 4, North
+Basin, North Channel, Graving Docks, machinery, etc.
+
+The following statement shows the total tonnage that passed through the
+port of Buenos Aires in 1880, 1890, 1900, and 1909, and clearly shows
+the advance made in the last 30 years.
+
+These figures include steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well
+as foreign trade.
+
+    1880   ...   ...   ...      644,750 tons
+    1890   ...   ...   ...    4,507,096 tons
+    1900   ...   ...   ...    8,047,010 tons
+    1909   ...   ...   ...   16,993,973 tons
+
+In 1909 we find that 2,008 steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the
+port of Buenos Aires from foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542,
+and 1,978 steamers and 129 sailing-vessels left the port for foreign
+shores with a tonnage of 5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead
+with 2,242 steamers and 37 sailing-vessels, or, say, 53-1/2 per cent, of
+the total.
+
+
+
+
+JUST MY LUCK!
+
+
+I really have had rather bad luck. As you know, I was wrecked on my way
+out from the Old Country. The good ship "Southern Cross" met her fate on
+a rock in Vigo Bay, and my luggage met its fate at the same time. This
+was something of a blow, but I expected to be treated a little more
+kindly by fate when once my destination was reached; I would be a
+stranger in a new country, and fate is proverbially kind to tyros of
+every sort.
+
+R.M.S.P. "Danube," which carried the shipwrecked passengers of the
+"Southern Cross" from Vigo to Buenos Aires, arrived at the Argentine
+capital towards the end of January. At the conclusion of my journey, one
+of my fellow-passengers, to whom I was saying good-bye, gave me this
+sound piece of advice: "Take care of yourself, and the country will take
+care of you." I don't suppose I can have taken care of myself, for
+within two months I was down with typhoid fever. This is how fate treats
+strangers in a new country.
+
+You know that I had the good fortune, shortly after my arrival, to find
+employment with the Santa Fe Land Company, and immediately on my falling
+ill, the Manager of the estancia sent me to bed, and reduced me to a
+milk diet. Two days later he himself took me down to the Buenos Aires
+British Hospital, and it is to this fact, and to the sensible treatment
+which I received in camp, that I in great measure owe my quick recovery.
+The journey to Buenos Aires was made as comfortable as possible. Even
+so, however, I must have been slightly delirious, for I remember
+thinking that everybody in the train was wearing a pink shirt without
+either coat or waistcoat. This must surely have been a delusion.
+
+I reached the hospital on a Sunday morning, and was promptly carried
+upstairs to a private ward. Though my temperature was now as much as 104
+deg., and my faculties were naturally not at their quickest, I could not
+help noticing the cheery look of the ward. There were flowers on the
+tables, the patients were obviously well cared for, everything was
+scrupulously clean, and the British nurses looked both efficient and
+attractive. The scrupulous cleanliness, together with the latest and
+most approved methods of treatment, were indeed a feature of the
+hospital in all its aspects.
+
+It was a short time afterwards that one of the doctors, after carefully
+diagnosing my case, ordered me to the medical ward, where there would be
+greater facilities for giving me a course of baths. In the medical ward
+my treatment was as kind and as careful as formerly, but my new
+surroundings had for the moment a rather depressing effect. I was just
+able to realise that the cases around me were more serious than in the
+private ward, and that both doctors and nurses were more grave and
+intent on their work. I was soon, however, to become delirious again,
+and for the next few days was more or less oblivious to my environment.
+After a short time I became more alive to what was happening around me.
+We typhoid patients had four cold baths daily, and those patients who in
+their normal existence were unaccustomed to one warm bath a week were
+somewhat inclined to rebel. This was amusing. My sense of humour was
+reviving. The company here was certainly more mixed than in the private
+ward--consisting as it did of every class and of every nationality, from
+Montenegrin to Turk, but it was not on that account any the less
+entertaining. Two or three berths away a brawny Scot of monster
+dimensions, who was convalescent after an acute attack of rheumatism,
+would every night before getting into bed say, with a certain naivete,
+and without any sense of proportion, that he was going to his "little
+nest." And yet people accuse Scotsmen of a lack of imagination. On
+either side of me lay a typhoid patient--each delirious. The one on my
+right hand imagined he was at home drinking beer in Plymouth, and the
+one on my left, an Italian workman, would persistently call for his
+boots. It seemed he wished to return to his work and did not think any
+other article of dress necessary. The weather at the time was certainly
+hot, and this may have suggested such a daring flaunting of the
+conventions. It is curious that among typhoid patients this illusion of
+doing some action without sufficient clothing is rather prevalent. I
+myself at one time imagined that I had been discharged from the hospital
+with only the top of my pyjamas and a travelling rug. As I would carry
+the travelling rug on my arm, it scarcely compensated for the lack of
+other apparel. Through all these vagaries on the part of the patients
+the nurses remained kind and careful as ever. This was especially
+conspicuous in one case, where a patient insisted that his nurse was a
+Chinese pirate, and behaved accordingly, but she gave her charge the
+same excellent attention as before. At this time I began to be troubled
+with the pangs of a great hunger. After subsisting for five weeks on
+milk alone, my food diet began with small doses of cornflour and with
+large doses of castor oil, but at last there came a chicken. I shall
+never forget that first chicken, nor the nurse who brought it to me. How
+I tore those bones--of the chicken, not the nurse--apart, and how I
+attacked them in my fingers so that I should not leave any of the good
+meat. Eventually my bed in the medical ward was required for a more
+serious case than myself, and I was sufficiently well to be returned to
+the private ward for a few days of convalescence. The patients here were
+certainly more companionable than in the medical ward, and they suffered
+from less grave complaints. They were for the most part victims of
+accidents, and were all nearly well enough to leave the hospital. In the
+evenings we generally had some sort of amusement among ourselves. The
+_piece de resistance_ was more often than not a wrestling match between
+the man with the amputated foot and the man who had undergone an
+operation for sciatica. As both performers were in ordinary
+circumstances compelled to use crutches, their efforts were distinctly
+humorous.
+
+It was after two months of medical treatment that I was able to leave
+the British Hospital, and it was only when on the point of leaving that
+I realised what we Britishers owe to this institution.
+
+The building itself is constructed on the most approved designs, it is
+fitted with every modern appliance, both medical and surgical; the
+treatment is excellent, the percentage of cures remarkable--not a single
+case has been lost in the medical ward during the current year; the
+doctors are not only experienced, but efficient; and finally, the
+nurses--but perhaps I have already dwelt with sufficient emphasis on
+their virtues.
+
+All the same, thank Heaven I return to camp in a week, and may fate deal
+more kindly with me in the future.
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+PATRON SAINT: GEORGE WASHINGTON.
+
+
+
+
+No. 1.
+
+_Saturday, March 26th, 1910._
+
+
+When we consider the already overstocked journalistic world, and
+remember the innumerable papers and magazines which greet one at every
+street corner and nestle in every armchair, we feel that an apology is
+due to our readers (if any) for our temerity in swelling the overflow of
+periodicals, but let us assure you our reasons for putting another paper
+on the market are purely altruistic. It is no idea of mere gain, or even
+a desire for notoriety that urges us to issue "The Tacuru"; we have
+undertaken this responsibility because we know that the world would be
+the loser did we refuse to give to the public the highly scientific
+impressions formed by an extraordinarily intelligent party of pilgrims
+during a unique journey into the wild uncultivated northern lands of the
+Argentine, especially as some of the most intellectual (the superlative
+adverb is well chosen) members of the band have promised to give their
+scientific views on the lands through which we shall pass daily. Though
+this expedition is only advertised to last a fortnight, yet we have no
+intention of closing our paper at the end of that time, for we are
+certain that once the public have been educated to appreciate the
+high-class literature and useful information which it will be the aim of
+"The Tacuru" to supply, we shall have created a demand and interest
+which not even Halley's comet can rival, and we shall endeavour to
+satisfy that demand daily. Our only fear was that lest the world should
+be kept waiting for the publication of our paper, for though everything
+was in readiness yesterday for an early start to-day, the elements
+seemed inclined to delay us, and when rain had fallen steadily nearly
+all day, The Instigator of the trip was seen to clench his jaw yesterday
+afternoon, as he remarked "We cannot start till Monday." This fiat
+caused dire consternation; the idea of waiting for two days when all
+those carts were packed ready for our immediate outset, filled the party
+with annoyance, and had it not been for the fact that The Instigator is
+a man not to be trifled with, it is possible remonstrances might have
+been raised. But, fortunately, each member of the party only possessed
+the angelic variety of temper, so no expostulations were made, and peace
+was maintained. This unequalled patience under trials was rewarded, and
+great was the joy of the party when at 8 p.m. it was found that the rain
+had ceased, and the moon shone forth in such a way as to influence The
+Instigator to rescind his decision and declare an early start for
+to-day.
+
+Rumour has it that The Jehu and his aide-de-camp and Our Hostess sat up
+till 12.30 a.m., finally arranging "places in the carriages, food
+supplies, blankets required," and all the innumerable details which made
+for the party's comfort.
+
+Before we publish the impressions, contributed by one member of the
+band, on to-day's trip, we think our readers might appreciate a slight
+character sketch of each of our "Staff." There are nine Pilgrims.
+
+FIRST: _The Instigator_. Well, he's right when you know him, but you do
+want to know him first. What possessed him to suggest that we should
+trek away north, goodness only knows, unless he was fired by a desire to
+imitate the Cook-Peary journeys, or it may have been the celebrated
+"Cristobal Cocktails" which inspired him to do great deeds.
+
+We hear that coming out from England he earned a reputation on board
+ship as an auctioneer, and once even sold a live lord for a few
+shillings to the highest lady bidder. As a camp man he is a marvel,
+never seen on horseback, but generally discovered on his hands and knees
+fudging about with a thing he calls a pocket microscope, and
+occasionally going off into hysterics over some clod of earth, a leaf,
+or some weird microbes which he says are feeding on the alfalfa roots.
+Talking of feeding, The Instigator can eat anything, his motto is "_tout
+jour_"; he has the digestion of an ostrich, and says "it is just as well
+to make a good meal while you are about it, for you never know when and
+where you will get the next." His best friends cannot say he is musical
+(save when others are trying to sleep); but he has a favourite song, and
+it is that old music-hall classic entitled "Do, do, be always on the
+do." However, he is a very good fellow, and notwithstanding that square
+jaw of his, which seems to hint at the possibility of "a man of wrath"
+existing in that silent thoughtful being, he is kindness itself to all,
+and never fails to do his share of work as it comes along.
+
+SECOND: _Our Guest_. The Wild Man discovered this _rara avis_ in a
+railway carriage, babbling for "Kwilmez Beer," so he was brought along,
+and he had not been long at the Estancia before he was running first
+favourite in the Popularity Stakes. He was always ready for anything,
+and it must have been his desire to acquire knowledge which induced him
+to come with the party. The Saint has undertaken to explain to him how
+colonists thrive on the 8 per cent. system, and to teach him how many
+grains of maize make "ocho." We doubt whether she will succeed in the
+latter attempt, for we fancy Our Guest will never leave eight grains of
+maize uneaten; he is a wonder for that delicacy, and feeds on it
+constantly, and we hear rumours that he intends to take some maize cobs
+home with him to his native country, and proposes to feed his "team" on
+it.
+
+THIRD: _The Delineator._ This is a misnomer, he really should be called
+"The Photographer," but that sounds so common, and his views are so
+uncommon that we called him The Delineator instead; besides, he always
+travels about with maps and charts (his own, or someone else's) and when
+appealed to as to what course we should take, replies in a cold, hard
+voice, "North by North, just as she goes." Like the rest of the party,
+he has never travelled quite the road we are going now, but the prospect
+of collecting a few new varieties of butterflies, moths, insects, and
+plants caused his eyes to light up with a wild gleam when he heard of
+the trip, and the yarns he spins of things unseen by the ordinary sober
+mortal are ever a joy to the listener, and make them whisper, _se non e
+vero e ben trovato._
+
+FOURTH: _The Jehu._ There is but one name for a man who handles his
+four-in-hand over tree-trunks, tacurus, and tussocks, as our coacher
+does. He drives as not even his namesake drove; in rain, in sunshine, in
+light, in darkness, over smooth ground or rough, he guides his steeds
+with consummate skill and care, which is wonderful to see. After a more
+than usually big bump he turns to his passengers with a cheery "All
+aboard?"; then gives his attention once more to the animals of which he
+is so fond, and in which he takes such pride. His knowledge of the
+horses he drives is marvellous. The Jehu is a man of great perception
+and information, and has a pleasant knack of being able to convey his
+knowledge to others. He and The Instigator have great arguments together
+which interest all listeners by day, but the discussions are not
+followed with quite so much delight by those who are privileged to hear
+them at night, when they often degenerate into a snoring competition.
+
+FIFTH: _The Wild Man_--had been driven south by stress of weather and
+strikes. We should like to say something nice about him, for he always
+carries revolvers, knives, and cameras, but we fear that our kindest
+remarks may be misunderstood by one so unused to a quiet civilisation
+with no revolutions, so we refrain from all personal comments. This
+product of a land of luxuriant vegetation has a quaint penchant for
+collecting matchboxes (filled), old boots, deer horns, and any odd
+things lying about the camp belonging to himself or other people; still
+he is always cheerful and content, never grumbles, and can give valuable
+information respecting the ways of the natives who look upon him as a
+man and a brother.
+
+SIXTH: _The Chaperon_--has his uses. It will be his business to see that
+we are housed, clothed, and fed. The horses and peons will also be under
+his care, and if anyone wants to grumble about anything The Chaperon is
+the person to abuse. Tent-erecting is what he considers himself to be
+very good at; but rumour has it that his best accomplishment is
+hairdressing (ladies or gentlemen, English or foreign styles). His
+resources know no bounds; he has been seen to fasten up a pair of
+leggings with bits of stick. His powers of annexation, both mentally and
+materially, are indeed marvellous. He prefers to make his bed on the
+bricks or the cold, hard ground, and then enlarges on the comfort
+thereof; he generally takes his food standing up, and is always on the
+spot ready for any emergency when required.
+
+SEVENTH: _The Saint_--is a lady who will give away anything in her
+possession, save chicken or eggs. Just now she is making donations of
+pipes, tobacco, handkerchiefs (her own or The Instigator's), and good
+advice on matrimony. She is a person of importance, and is very keen on
+collecting knowledge which she is always ready to impart to others;
+unfortunately, some of her efforts to improve humanity have not been
+absolutely successful, but she is never discouraged, and takes up the
+next case on the list with equal enthusiasm. Most of us have to thank
+her for some good thing or other. She will do her best to keep every
+member of the party up to the mark, physically and mentally. Her
+accomplishments are numerous.
+
+EIGHTH: _My Lady_--is a general favourite; she will look after the lot
+of us in her own gracious fashion. Everyone goes to her for advice,
+sympathy, or help, which she is always ready to give. Even without her
+tea-basket she would be an absolute necessity for the social success of
+the trip, for, as the advertisements say of patent sweepers and the
+Encyclopaedia Britannica, "no party is complete without" her, so every
+one was glad to hear that she had agreed to accompany the northern
+pioneers. Those favoured ones who have seen her "on the boards," whisper
+that her histrionic genius is marvellous; we, who are not among the
+fortunate number, can only say that if her acting equals her talent for
+giving (when required) a really concise, lucid description of anything,
+it must indeed be wonderful. Her quotations, too, are so ready and apt,
+though occasionally they remind us, by their vagueness, of her namesake
+and favourite book.
+
+NINTH: _The Kid_. Why she is brought along, nobody will ever know. It
+may have been as a "contrapeso" ("an addition of meat or fish of
+inferior quality, thrown in to complete the weight," _vide_ Arturo
+Cuyas' Dictionary), but we think she came with the sheep. Anyhow, it was
+not until the first part of the journey had been accomplished that she
+was discovered bleating in the corner of one of the coaches. We had a
+meeting to decide whether she should come on with us or not, and
+arranged to put her on the job of tidying up for the trip; but her
+hopeless incompetence and ready impertinence to her superior officers,
+necessitated instant dismissal without a character. However, as she is
+really not worth the trouble of sending back, we locked up the tea tin,
+and let her continue the journey on the condition that she will not talk
+too much, awake or asleep. With any luck, we may yet lose her somewhere
+in the wilds.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The one disappointment expressed by all the party was that Our Hostess
+decided not to accompany us on the trip, but to await our return at
+Cristobal.
+
+We started out from the estancia house as soon as the ladies' luggage
+could be brought downstairs, and we should like to remark, in passing,
+that it was a very affecting sight to see Our Guest, The Delineator, and
+The Wild Man lifting and carrying heavy boxes and baggage (with no
+thought of gain) out to the peons, who, under the able direction of The
+Chaperon, loaded them scientifically on to one of the four carts, which,
+when ready, were sent on ahead with the nine peons who had been told off
+for the trip. Cameras appeared from every available corner as we
+prepared to move, and many invaluable photos of the start of the caravan
+must have been secured by those who gave us such a hearty send-off. When
+at last Our Hostess had put in the final cushion and rug, and provided
+us with biscuits and bull's-eyes, and was satisfied that even she could
+do nothing more for our comfort, we parted from her with great regret,
+promising that she should receive numerous marconigrams concerning our
+welfare, and our travels en route. First went off the four-in-hand
+driven by The Jehu, who had four members of the party in his care; he
+was followed by The Chaperon, who drove a pair, and looked after the
+rest of the explorers.
+
+There is an old saying, "Give a dog a bad name and you may as well hang
+him." The truth of this saying has never been better exemplified than
+in the case of the Chaco, which long held the reputation of being good
+for nothing. Rumour had it that the northern land was useless; life was
+impossible there for the white man; indeed, it was supposed that cattle
+even could not live there on account of the mosquitoes and garrapata;
+and Indians were said to be as thick as flies, and equally disturbing.
+
+The Santa Fe Land Company has been one of the pioneers who steadily
+fought down these reports, and by showing what good cattle could be bred
+there, and what crops grown, has gradually opened up the possibilities
+of the northern lands to colonists and investors. Slowly but surely
+workers came north, first in fear and dread, but later with confidence,
+and now the cry is "They come, and still they come." Before we had gone
+far on our journey we had an opportunity of conversing with one lately
+arrived colonist. A wonderful crop of maize attracted our notice, and we
+stopped to speak to the great, jolly, strong-framed Italian who had
+grown it. He has moved up from the south with his wife and family, and
+his fellow-workmen. They started ploughing, and though it was late in
+the season, he was persuaded to try a catch-crop of maize, with the
+result that he has to-day banked $5,000, when he never expected to
+secure a chance harvest. And so sure is he that the land will repay all
+labour and time expended upon it that he is anxious to take up a league
+and colonize it with his fellow-countrymen.
+
+It is the same story all through the northern lands; anyone with pluck,
+adaptability and grit can do what this man has done: indeed hard work
+and perseverance will as amply reward the labourer in the northern lands
+as they have done in the south. The sight of this great crop of valuable
+maize, on land which a few months before was a mere waste, brings the
+words of the Psalmist forcibly to one's thoughts, for surely of no
+country could it more truly be said than of the Argentine, "Dwell in
+the land, and be doing good, and, verily, thou shalt be fed"; and
+perhaps there are few countries in which there are less openings for the
+man whose mind is not set towards "doing good": the Argentine has little
+room for the shirker.
+
+[Illustration: _Horses awaiting Inspection._]
+
+The rain of yesterday relieved us from the trials of dust on our
+journey, but it also made the going very heavy, and instead of
+travelling for the usual two hours before relieving horses, we were
+obliged to make an early stop for a change. This is always an
+interesting sight, for the animals are so well trained. Our total number
+is 87, and when a halt is called, these animals are all lined up in a
+row, generally against a wire fence. At the word of command they range
+themselves, backed close against the fence in a long line with their
+heads outwards. Packed tightly together they await the inspection of
+their master, who chooses the animals he requires, and as they are
+standing thus they allow themselves to be haltered up and led quietly
+away from the line to be harnessed. Their training is wonderful, but it
+is really amusing to watch the expression of the horses as they stand in
+a row while the selection takes place, they seem to be saying "Please,
+sir, not I this time." Where no wire fence is available, the peons
+stretch a rope or lasso out, and the horses will line up against that in
+the same manner. During our first change of horses, unexpected
+excitement occurred. The Saint perceived a plaid horse--at least this is
+what she called it, and we believed it to be German for piebald
+horse--from which a peon had dismounted. This horse must have reminded
+her of the circus-riders of her childhood (or possibly her action was
+owing to temporary aberration); anyhow, without a word of warning, she
+leapt astride the native saddle and gave a short display of how it
+should be done. However, fortunately from her point of view, though
+disappointingly from that of the spectators, the piebald animal had not
+been trained to circus tricks, and only quietly ambled along for a few
+yards, during which time the cameras came into full play. After The
+Saint had been persuaded to dismount, and the horses were harnessed up,
+an onward move was made, and it was not long before we met our host for
+the day. He had ridden to the furthest outposts of his section to join
+us, and under his guidance we were conducted to two or three spots,
+where The Instigator inspected rodeos of animals in his charge.
+
+We arrived at the Section house of Polvareda about midday, and found
+that our host had prepared an alarmingly sumptuous repast for his influx
+of visitors: as course followed course, roast ducks dodged the turkey,
+and were pursued by plum pudding, etc., we began to wonder if our host
+thought that meal would have to last us for the fortnight of our trip.
+But we discovered that he came from the West of England, and had not
+forgotten the ideas of hospitality current in that part of the world.
+Rumour had it that he himself had been seen carrying about pails of
+scalded milk at 4 a.m. This proceeding explains the delicious Devonshire
+cream and butter we are enjoying.
+
+The afternoon was spent in driving or riding round the section to
+inspect various windmills, more groups of cattle, wells, fencing, and
+new alfalfa, etc. Our host, as we were driving round, took the
+opportunity for giving us a short, successful exhibition of buck-jumping
+with his steed, whether willingly or not, neither he nor history
+mentions. At eventide, another excellent repast was provided, and The
+Saint was so impressed by the catering and culinary skill of our host,
+that she decided to inaugurate a prize to be won by the bachelor
+estanciero who shall provide the best meals for the hungry nomads during
+the trip; certainly our host for to-day has put the standard very high
+for the other competitors. A short telephonic communication was held
+during dinner with Our Hostess at Cristobal, and "All's well" was
+reported on both sides.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: _Stacking Alfalfa._]
+
+[Illustration: _Alfalfa Elevator at Work._]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 2.
+
+_Sunday, March 27th, 1910._
+
+
+The party did not sit up late last night; they had a short talk on the
+verandah for the sake of digestion, and then all retired to bed, but
+alas! not to rest. Foolishly they had imagined that mosquitoes were
+things of the past, and no nets were put up, with the result that one
+and all soon learnt that for fresh blood and newcomers there was a
+plethora of these little demons waiting with their irritating song,
+sting, and bite: from some of the party we learn complaints of other
+songs, more human, and more nasal, and it is believed that it was Our
+Guest who was heard at midnight to be murmuring the chorus of a
+favourite song, viz., "Hush, boys! No noise! Silence ebryting! Listen,
+and you'll hear de little angels sing." At least it says "angels" in the
+song, but the word Our Guest used sounded like "demons," but probably he
+was dreaming of the "ping" of bullets and the roar of battle as the
+snores resounded through the room, or, one might almost say, through the
+house. Very early this morning there were cries for The Chaperon: he was
+wanted to tell the time; he was wanted to bring water for ablutions; he
+was wanted to tell us when breakfast would be ready; he was wanted to
+give advice or remedies for mosquito bites, and, in general, for a short
+space of time, he justified his existence. When at last the members of
+the party had collected themselves from all sorts of odd corners,
+coffee (with the addition of bacon and eggs, and several other things)
+was served, and the interval, before the order "All aboard" was issued,
+was chiefly occupied in observing and discussing the effects of our
+first night's experience of bichos. Our Guest, after due deliberation,
+laid down some useful rules for future guidance, the chief being, "Never
+be without a Mosquitero": his face and head were literally enlarged on
+this point, and he assured us that a mosquito's proboscis is an
+impressive point. Apparently The Kid, too, would have liked to give her
+views on mosquitoes and their ways, but her uninteresting remarks were
+cut short by The Wild Man's order of "kennel up," and, given a bottle of
+cana, she seemed quite happy. Our Guest seemed to have an impression,
+also, that someone had blundered. He knew someone had slumbered (some
+had not), and plaintively he begged that he might be allowed in future
+to sleep at one estancia further ahead of the rest of the party.
+
+Most of the nomads had had some slapping acquaintance with mosquitoes
+during the night, and the showing of bites, swellings, lumps, etc., only
+ended when The Jehu ordered the bugle to be sounded for an onward move.
+We were well under way before half the lamentations had been entered in
+the station complaint book.
+
+Bidding adieu to Polvareda, where the green fields of alfalfa show the
+march of progress, we pushed forward, but as we left we were unable to
+decide whether it was a desire to escape observation (and, perhaps, the
+too-effusive thanks of the lady members of the party), or a violent
+toothache, which caused our host to conceal himself in a huge blanket
+wrapped around his head as we left, but we fear it was toothache that
+necessitated the extra wrappings.
+
+[Illustration: _The Green Fields of Alfalfa_.]
+
+We had not gone far on our journey before we crossed the bridge over Las
+Conchas. The manager of the next section met us soon afterwards, and we
+inspected the cattle on his domains. On our way from Polvareda to
+Michelot we passed the emporium of the Universal Provider of the North,
+in other words, "the stores," where most of the necessities and many of
+the luxuries of life can be obtained. The Saint can never resist the
+desire of a bargain, and others of the party were anxious to see all
+that the stores contained, so we made a halt and inundated the building,
+where everything was extraordinarily neat and clean, shelves piled high
+with bales of bright-coloured cottons, cloths, and handkerchiefs; hats
+hanging in long lines, brilliant saddle-cloths, pipes, knives, tobacco,
+axes, leather goods and harness, every variety of tinned foods, barrels
+of flour, sugar, etc., all arranged with precision, and showing
+cleanliness and method at every turn. Some men were sitting on the
+benches, smoking and drinking and chatting together, for apparently "the
+stores" constitutes the local rendezvous and news agency for miles
+around.
+
+The Saint at once made purchases, for no place is stamped on her memory
+unless she has spent money there. She wanted to make the whole party
+presents of hats, handkerchiefs, or pipes, but she was restrained, and
+ultimately satisfied her generosity by choosing the best saddle-cloth
+the establishment could supply, and one or two hats. We went into the
+living-rooms of the storekeeper, and found the same attractive neatness
+there. A gramophone occupied a side table, and skins and pictures were
+hanging on the walls. The storekeeper's wife and her sister were
+attractive Englishwomen; there were two or three children running about,
+but none of them could speak anything but their father's native
+language. After this inspection we drove on, and we are glad to be able
+to register the fact that Our Guest for once acted up to the first part
+of the old adage, "Earn sixpence a day and live up to it." The Jehu's
+coach had stayed behind for a while, to allow The Instigator to observe
+and note a great many things which were no business of his at all, and
+the peons had likewise remained, but The Saint, having fulfilled her
+mission of purchasing whenever possible, was content, and anxious to get
+on to the Section house for a rest before her afternoon ride, so The
+Chaperon drove on with his coach, and we are assured, on what we
+consider good authority, that when Our Guest perceived a closed gate in
+the way, and no peon at hand, he leapt from the carriage (perhaps "flew"
+would be a better word) and opened that gate. Possibly he had been fired
+with ambition to earn money while inspecting those crimson and blue
+handkerchiefs at the stores, for we know he appreciates "colours"; but,
+whatever his motive, he _did_ open that gate, and let it be recorded to
+the honour of his fellow-passengers that his action was not allowed to
+pass unappreciated or unrewarded. When all the party were collected at
+Michelot estancia house, lunch was served on the verandah by a
+dour-looking Oriental, who apparently combined the duties of cook and
+parlourmaid in his own somewhat yellow person, and very well he
+performed his task, but as he went silently about his business of
+serving this large party, which he did with a slow precision and
+apparent utter disregard of his master's orders, he reminded us
+irresistibly of the soi-disant American definition of "Life," and we
+began to wonder whether it were not a Chinaman who summed up existence
+in the words, "After all, Life is only one d----d thing after another."
+
+[Illustration: _Herd of Cattle._]
+
+A short siesta followed lunch, and after an early tea everyone mounted
+horses or carriages and went forth to see the sights of the
+Section--everyone, that is to say, save The Chaperon, who had other work
+to do; he it was who discovered and averted what might have been a
+disaster. Some members of the party were quite content as long as they
+were given three cups of tea, others fancied cocktails, and some babbled
+for cocoa. It was suddenly found that the supply of this last useful
+article was running short. The Kid not being a cocoa-drinker, casually
+suggested filling up the tin with tannin extract or dust; she said "it
+looked the same and nobody need smell it," but The Chaperon declined to
+resort to subterfuges and rode off to the stores to supply a deficiency
+caused by his own lack of attention.
+
+At Michelot, as at Polvareda, great progress has been made of late
+years, alfalfa laid down, fences and wells made, and the cattle are
+improving yearly. Our last sight, before the inspection for the day was
+finished, was a wonderful rodeo of 3,000 cattle, which we viewed from
+the vantage point of the banks of a newly made reservoir. It was a
+striking picture, which will not easily be erased from the memory of
+those who saw it. The cattle, with their long continuous lowing, were
+rounded up below us, and away on the horizon the sun was setting with
+the glory one never sees better elsewhere than over a plain, leaving, as
+it rapidly sank from sight, marvellous shades of gold and crimson on the
+fantastically shaped clouds. Save for the animals and their drivers just
+around us, the whole vast space seemed so still and empty, yet on every
+hand were traces of man's labour and skill, conquering a tract of land
+which was almost valueless a few short years back.
+
+On our return to the house we found dinner for us on the verandah. This
+was a delightfully cool method of taking food, but rather apt to attract
+beasties, and although the philosophers and friends of the party
+arranged the lights to keep away insects as much as possible, and
+succeeded in their efforts, some members of the party preferred to take
+no risks and dined with veils wrapped around their heads, only leaving
+their mouths available. The Wild Man caused some excitement before we
+sat down to dinner by introducing us to a beast he called a "railway
+insect." It certainly strongly resembled a railway train, with its green
+light on its head, red at the tail, and luminous yellow lights all over
+its caterpillar-like body; it was a most interesting discovery, and the
+Wild Man went up in everyone's estimation for a few minutes. The
+Oriental again served us with silent steadiness. It was suggested that
+one of our "boys" should assist him in the task of waiting on the party
+of twelve, but notwithstanding the fact that he had been told he might
+kick round any boy he chose to make an assistant, he waived aside all
+outside help with the words "no good," and continued on his way
+imperturbably.
+
+The Instigator, with The Delineator and The Jehu, had a long discussion
+after dinner on various Argentine subjects too deep for the ordinary
+mortal, though The Wild Man and The Chaperon seemed to be trying to take
+an intelligent interest in the conversation. Our Guest sat silent,
+looked sad, and on being offered a penny for his thoughts, he murmured
+that he was wondering whether he would be allowed any sleep to-night.
+Doubtless he felt wearied, because, as it is Sunday, The Chaperon had
+been allowed to take a half-day off for his own amusements, and Our
+Guest, perhaps stimulated by his financial success of the morning,
+offered to fulfil the duties of chaperon during his absence; but we
+regret to say that we cannot candidly advise Our Guest to take up
+chaperoning as a means of livelihood, for though willing and tactful, he
+lacks the long training and apprenticeship necessary for continual
+service in this arduous work.
+
+The ladies seemed happier, for they had noted the mosquito nets over
+each bed in their room, and they looked forward to a peaceful night. We
+had our usual communication with Our Hostess over the telephone before
+retiring, and received and gave satisfactory reports from both sides.
+
+A correspondent wishes to know if any of our readers can name the author
+of these lines:--
+
+"Heaven gives sleep to the bad, in order that the good may be
+undisturbed." He would also like to know if this generally accepted
+quotation is quite correct, or whether the "un" is a misprint. Replies
+to "O.G.," c/o THE TACURU.
+
+Owing to the innumerable applications which we have received for
+advertising space in our widely circulated periodical, we have decided
+to open our columns to advertisements at the rate of 50 cents per line,
+applications to be sent to "The Advertisement Editor," THE TACURU
+Offices, c/o The Jehu, First Coach. All orders must be prepaid.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+WANTED.--Bricklayers who can build straight.--Apply Manager, Michelot.
+
+RIDING TAUGHT by a lady, side-saddle or astride; fees go to
+Charity.--Apply "T.S.," c/o TACURU Offices.
+
+BOOT CLEANING undertaken in best style. Gents', per pair, $1; Ladies',
+per pair, for the asking.--Orders received by "T.C.," Offices of this
+Paper.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 3.
+
+_Monday, March 28th, 1910._
+
+Owing to the care with which the mosquito nets had been put up, there
+were few complaints of bites when the party assembled for breakfast, but
+the conversation chiefly degenerated into an argument on phonetics. The
+different rooms held various views on the harmonizing of sounds. Had it
+been a glee competition we should undoubtedly have given the award to
+the verandah party. Sleeping on the bricks seems to bring out the
+sweetness of a treble voice as nothing else can do. The Saint and My
+Lady both remarked that they were very fond of music, but they could not
+appreciate being awakened from their beauty sleeps, by the announcement
+in a raucous voice of "No, thank you." They do not wish for a moment to
+imply that The Kid was not perfectly justified in refusing whatever she
+did refuse, but they would like her in future to confine her
+conversations to the daytime if possible, and to leave their nights in
+peace. It was a happy thought on the part of The Jehu to suggest a
+picnic at the Waters Meet to-day, before our forward move on to Los
+Moyes, and after breakfast we started out. First we went to inspect the
+site where the new house is to be built, then on to the pretty little
+monte near by, where some picturesque photographs were taken of the
+cavalcade of riders. We paused in this tiny monte, for it is an
+intensely interesting spot from a botanical point of view, and with care
+and attention should be so for some years to come. In an extraordinary
+small compass this wood contains more varied specimens of trees than one
+would ordinarily see in a day's journey. So on to Waters Meet. Here one
+is afforded an opportunity for studying the watershed of this portion of
+Argentina. Three rivers meet here, the Concha, the Calchaqui, and the
+Northern Salado. The latter is the only perennial river in that region;
+it rises in the snowy peaks of the Andes, in the province of Salta,
+miles away, and it is not to be wondered at, that, though it is a
+slow-moving river and meanders through the Gran Chaco, in the times of
+floods its swollen waters overflow their banks and flood immense tracts
+of land. Thomas Page, an American Admiral, in the year 1855, navigated
+this river from its junction with the Parana to the spot where we were
+to-day, but when he went up it there was so little water in the river
+that he had to give up the idea of continuing his pioneer task of
+exploration. It had been his intention to open up the river for trade,
+and there is no reason why this should not be done at some future date.
+The Calchaqui goes under different names at various places. It rises on
+the great swamps on the North-East of the Santa Fe Land Company's
+territory, and flows through a chain of lakes and canadas until it runs
+into the huge laguna "Del Palmar," and thence along what used to be the
+Eastern boundary of the Santa Fe Land Company's lands, until it joins
+the Salado.
+
+The Calchaqui must drain at least 150,000 acres of land, and the Rio
+Concha has a watershed of about 60 or 70 thousand acres. It is not known
+what the area of the watershed of the Salado is, but it must be immense;
+therefore it can be understood that the meeting-place of the waters of
+these three rivers is an interesting spot geographically, and we were
+all glad to have seen it. On our arrival at the Water Meet we had our
+first introduction to the native "asado," and we all hoped it would not
+be the last. The peons collected (apparently from nowhere), in less time
+than it takes to write about, sticks and odds and ends for a fire, over
+the ashes of which they broiled the meat, holding it over the heat on
+long skewers of wood. The meat was brought to us cooked, still on these
+skewers, and each one cut off, or had cut off for them by The Jehu, the
+portion he or she preferred, and a very hearty and merry meal was made
+by all. The resulting silence of repletion was only broken by a murmur
+from The Saint of "My heart is full," which sentiment, anatomically
+amended, was echoed by all.
+
+[Illustration: _Expanse of Alfalfa_.]
+
+When active exertion was once more possible everyone repaired to the
+banks of the Waters Meet, and a spot being found where there were no
+dead fish lying about, the ladies (under the tutorship of Our Guest and
+The Jehu) indulged in a little rifle-shooting at bottles. We fear that
+we cannot record any marvellous marksmanship on their part, for the
+bottles were still bobbing about on the water when the ladies' party
+retraced their steps to the "camp." A cup of tea was suggested before
+the returning drive, and it was thought possible (though not probable)
+that The Kid might be useful on this occasion. However any hopes in this
+direction were speedily dispelled when (after a great deal of noise and
+talk) she appeared with a thick black liquid, which proved absolutely
+undrinkable. True it was poured from a tea-pot, but anything less like
+"tea" as one usually meets it at 5 o'clock, could scarcely be imagined,
+and the air seemed full of the unspoken query, "Has everyone a use in
+this world?" The drive back to the estancia house was as pleasant as
+that of the morning, and there we found the Chinaman (who, owing to the
+strenuous exertions of The Chaperon, now appeared with considerably less
+hair, and obviously a more swollen head), had gauged correctly the
+incompetency of The Kid, in the brewing of his native beverage, and
+consequently had prepared a beverage which might pass for tea, and was
+enjoyed by all. After this refreshment a move was made, the luggage had
+gone on, and the party followed in their two coaches. We now began to
+approach a more pleasing country, and drove through little montes of
+scrub and trees, with a few bright-coloured verbena and cacti growing
+near the ground, making a brave show, and that larger optunia, the
+prickly pear, with its silver grey appearance and the bright crimson of
+its fruit showed up occasionally against the low trees. Altogether, the
+land had a more homelike and less expansive appearance, as it was broken
+up by these little groups of trees. It was a glorious drive. We were
+favoured with another exquisite sunset which shed weird and beautiful
+light over this strangely quiet and empty country. As the four-horse
+char-a-banc had started some minutes ahead of the more modest two-horse
+vehicle, it was to be supposed that it would reach the destination, Los
+Moyes, first, and we hear that there was some consternation expressed by
+the party of the smaller coach when, on their arrival they found that
+nothing had been heard, or seen, of the more ambitious vehicle. However,
+The Chaperon on being appealed to, impassively murmured "They're all
+right," and started to give orders for unloading, and putting up beds
+and generally arranging matters as if the section house belonged to him,
+and this callousness on his part, we are told, calmed the others
+sufficiently to allow of their enjoying the remnants of the sunset,
+undisturbed by any thoughts of the horrible fates which might (but were
+not likely to) have overtaken their companions.
+
+Certainly Los Moyes section house is most prettily situated, with an
+expanse of alfalfa beyond the little front garden, and trees in the
+distance opening to show a glimpse of the smallest lake. There are three
+of these lakes not far from the house, and fishing is carried on, by
+means of spearing, in their waters. Long after the last trace of sunset
+had faded from the sky, The Jehu appeared with his coach, and a rush was
+made by the hosts of Los Moyes, and their earlier arrivals, to ascertain
+the cause of this delay. All anxiety was quickly allayed by one glance
+at the face of The Instigator. He was exuberant with joy. The rest of
+the occupants of the coach seemed rather less excited, and more weary,
+as they explained that The Instigator had sighted in the far offing a
+steam plough, and despite murmurs of "the dinner waits and we are tired"
+from The Delineator and The Wild Man, he insisted on investigating that
+plough, in fact on trying it himself, and it was with difficulty he was
+persuaded to return to the coach, and continue the drive home. We
+believe the credit for this latter achievement is due to The Delineator,
+who, with tact worthy of a diplomat, suggested that if an early return
+to the ploughing were made next morning, photos could be obtained of the
+machine and its work. This bait was successful, and The Instigator was
+gently enticed away with promises of "to-morrow."
+
+[Illustration: _Disc-Plough at Work._]
+
+[Illustration: _Roadmaker and Railroad Builder_.]
+
+After everyone was assured that everyone else was safe, The Instigator
+came back from his Elysium, dreamily to finish the quotation of The
+Delineator and The Wild Man with "Said Gilpin, So am I," and we all sat
+down to dinner, during which meal much merriment was caused by a
+difference of opinion between The Saint and her host on "dogs and
+species of dogs." Our enemies, the mosquitoes, were not so virulent as
+usual to-night, perhaps owing to the eucalyptus trees which are growing
+near the house; anyhow the party could venture to sit out after dinner
+on the verandah, which was already covered with beds for the
+accommodation of some of the party. Thus, with an audience seated on
+chairs and beds, The Instigator talked of the plough and of its
+marvellous work in opening up hitherto unused tracts of land. Want of
+labour has retarded development considerably, and until quite recently
+the northern camps were very much handicapped by the lack of labourers,
+and of men with brains to guide the labour. Not only was there a
+deficiency of men, but often so many of the working bullocks were
+drafted off to the forests for timber haulage, that it left a sparseness
+of them for agricultural purposes. The remedy, however, presented itself
+by the utilisation of the traction engine. The breaking-up of fresh
+lands has always been the trouble facing the colonist.
+
+In dry weather it is almost impossible to get the plough, drawn by horse
+or bullock, into the ground, and the drought so punishes the working
+animals that often when rain comes they are too weak for their work, and
+the colonist is unable to take the best advantage of the season, but
+mechanical ploughing obviates all this, and gives him the virgin land in
+such a condition that with the means at hand he is able to cultivate an
+area sufficiently large to ensure him success.
+
+As we sat thus on the verandah in the moonlight, plans were made for the
+following day. It was decided that a visit to the plough should occupy
+the morning, and a row on the lake, or ride round it, the afternoon,
+before proceeding to Lucero. Fishing was spoken of, but we could not
+manage everything in the short time we had at our disposal at Los Moyes,
+so we found that probably the fishing would have to be given up. Thus,
+in the security of the possession of clear consciences and mosquito
+nets, the party retired to rest.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Prepaid advertisements received at the office of this paper before 6
+p.m. will be inserted in the next day's issue.
+
+"M.L." writes in answer to "O.G." that the quotation he gives is from
+the writing of the Persian poet Sadi. The quotation is quite correct,
+for though Sadi travelled for a great number of years in Europe, Asia,
+and Africa, he never travelled with the present Company in the
+Argentine, therefore he did not realise that the sleep of the bad could
+disturb the good. Modern thought is inclined to differ from his views.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+LOST.--Two rubber sponges and two blankets. When finished with, please
+return to the Manager, Michelot.
+
+L10 REWARD.--Lost, one pearl-drop ear-ring; may be under the carpet.
+Finder will be rewarded as above, on returning same to "T.S.," Offices
+of this Paper.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 4.
+
+_Tuesday, March 29th, 1910._
+
+This morning, alas! did not fulfil the promise of last night's sunset,
+for a drizzling rain was falling when the party collected for breakfast,
+and we were afraid that not only would the fishing expedition be
+impossible, but also that the ploughing inspection might have to be
+postponed, and all were anxious, after the enthusiasm of The Instigator,
+to see that engine at work. Our host had sent some men out in the early
+morning to secure fish for our delectation, but they were unable to
+spear more than one, and this large aquatic animal was now hanging up
+under the verandah, causing a great deal of interest to the various
+curious members of the band; needless to say, The Instigator was busy
+divesting the fish of scales, examining them under his ubiquitous
+microscope, and insisting on everyone observing the marvels of Nature
+shown in this manner. We think that this was the psychological moment
+when the rest of the party began to appreciate the powers of that
+microscope, and insinuations were made to the owner that it would be a
+pity to take such a beautiful pocket instrument back to Europe, in case
+any accident should happen to the boat during the voyage, and the
+microscope be lost.
+
+The Delineator and The Wild Man appeared to be the chief favourites for
+the prize, and knowing the acquisitive propensities of The Chaperon, all
+were surprised to note his passiveness during the competition; however,
+he explained his inertia by saying that his sleep had been disturbed by
+visions for which no microscope was needed. He offered to sketch what he
+had seen, but could give no more definite description in words than
+"figures on the blind" and "streaming hair," so he was left alone to
+recover his nerve. The Jehu then pointed out that his prophecy had
+proved correct, and the misty rain had blown off, leaving a clear sky
+and fine weather, so a start was made _en masse_ for the scene of the
+ploughing operations. A slight lameness on the part of one of the steeds
+made it necessary for the smaller coach to return for change of animals
+after a few hundred yards. The Wild Man occupied the few minutes of this
+delay to the best possible advantage. The owner of the house and
+chattels was away, and The Wild Man, stimulated by The Chaperon made a
+very productive tour of the rooms and verandah, resulting in great
+satisfaction to himself.
+
+When the coach was ready with fresh horses, and The Wild Man had
+satisfied himself that nothing of value had escaped his observation,
+another move forward was made, and on arriving at the ground the smaller
+party found that the occupants of the first coach were already on the
+plough, having ousted the colonists for the time being. This plough was
+working on rough virgin ground, turning over more land in one hour than
+two men and four horses can do in England in a whole day. Each member of
+the party took their turn on the plough, and enjoyed the pleasure
+derived from turning over the untouched soil, and of feeling that they
+were helping to start the development of Nature's truest source of
+wealth. The engine was drawing twenty disc-ploughs, and could plough
+twenty-eight to thirty acres of land a day, week in and week out.
+
+Until recent years land in the Argentine Republic has been ploughed in
+small areas by animal labour, the farmer or colonist often employing the
+members of his family to assist him, and thus saving expense. Owing,
+however, to the immense harvests and the vast tracts of country awaiting
+development, it has become necessary to work on a much bigger scale, and
+to bring in the aid of machinery. In some places the ordinary form of
+steam plough has presented many practical disadvantages. They are heavy
+and unwieldy, and apt to sink in soft ground, from which they are
+extricated with difficulty. This is likely to cause damage, or more
+serious accidents, through explosion. Further, they require a constant
+train of water-carts and fuel wagons, and a staff of at least six
+persons to work them. At the spot where this engine was working the
+latter objections were obviated, as both wood and water were plentiful.
+In general, these difficulties are largely overcome by the adoption of
+the naphtha motor engine, which has been brought to a state of
+considerable perfection in Great Britain and the United States. It can
+be employed not only for ploughing and threshing, but also for traction,
+excavation, and embankment work, etc. An engine and plough will break up
+one hectarea of camp per hour, and some of these machines with two
+relays of workmen will break 108 hectareas per week. In a month of only
+twenty-three working days they will break up a league of camp.
+
+[Illustration: _Ploughing Virgin Camp._]
+
+The price of naphtha is gradually decreasing in the Argentine Republic,
+and the oil wells of the country will probably make the cost of fuel
+even less by-and-by than it is to-day.
+
+Areas of fertile camp, which have hitherto lain fallow, owing to their
+being intersected by canadas, and difficult to get at, can now be
+treated by the motor plough, with the result that their value will
+rapidly rise. In an actual case near the Central Cordoba Railway, people
+are to-day offering $118 per hectarea for land which was bought two
+years ago for $25 per hectarea, but during the two years it has been
+thoroughly ploughed and drained by mechanical means.
+
+In nearly all the northern lands small trees grow irregularly all over
+the camp, and in order to plough the land these trees must be dug up.
+Machines are manufactured in the United States to deal with land
+containing tree roots. They perform the double operation of cutting
+roots under ground and ploughing up the surface, but they have not yet
+been introduced into the Argentine in large numbers. Other machines dig
+holes for fence posts at the rate of fifty holes per hour, and they can
+be so accurately gauged that the posts may be firmly fixed without
+expending much labour in ramming.
+
+The naphtha engine is likewise used with great advantage for traction
+purposes. A striking instance of this is to be found at Rio Gallegos,
+where many naphtha engines are engaged in the work of carrying wool over
+a track of more than 300 kilometres, a feat which would be quite
+impossible with animal labour, owing to the rocky and broken condition
+of the roads.
+
+As the Santa Fe Land Company owns a great diversity of land, they have
+used both the steam traction and the naphtha engines, and time will show
+which machine is to be recommended.
+
+It is a pity that the agricultural implement importers of Buenos Aires
+should have recently formed themselves into a ring to lift prices,
+because their doing so will certainly tend to lessen the progress which
+agriculture is making in the Argentine. These combinations, however,
+will not deter the Company from continuing its "march of progress," but
+it comes hard on the colonist, who, after all, is the chief factor in
+building up the fortunes of the great importing houses of Buenos Aires.
+
+One of the greatest competitors of the British-built traction engine is
+the Hart-Parr oil engine, a splendid agricultural tool, which is
+invaluable where ordinary fuel is not easily procurable.
+
+It was with great difficulty The Instigator could be persuaded to leave
+the plough, and at one time his enthusiasm (and the engine) carried him
+out of sight, and those remaining at the starting-point grew speculative
+as to whether he would return before dark. However, a recommencement of
+drizzling rain apparently cooled his ardour, and restored him to the
+party. The nomads gladly turned their thoughts and coaches towards the
+section house, realising as they went the sweet truth of the words, "The
+ploughman homeward plods his weary way." Lunch awaited them, and the
+fish of the morning appeared in a more pleasant guise, to be enjoyed by
+all. After lunch, the rain showing no signs of clearing off, the party
+had to give up all idea of the lake proper, but watched one form in
+front of the house instead, and wondered how it would be negotiated when
+the time came for an onward move. So they sat on chairs, baggage and
+benches under the verandah, and tried to keep awake, while observing
+the steady downpour. One member of the party at last gave up the
+struggle against the inevitable, and sank gracefully into the arms of
+Morpheus, represented by the bags of biscuits and other impedimenta. A
+photo was secured of him as he lay half concealed amongst the
+portmanteaux, packages and "pan." We refrain from publishing it, because
+the chief feature of the picture is in the boots of the sleeper. (We
+trust no weak humour is intended in the preceding paragraph?--EDITOR.)
+
+[Illustration: _Hart-Parr Engine, drawing Roadmaker_.]
+
+A slight diversion was caused by a repacking of some goods after lunch.
+It seems that the bottles, with contents (a most important item), had
+been forgotten, and The Wild Man was approached with a request that the
+bottles might be transported to Lucero in his bag; of course, he
+cheerily acquiesced, but as the whole of the contents of his bag had to
+be turned out to pack the bottles scientifically, and as that bag
+happened to be the same receptacle in which The Wild Man had secreted
+the various articles collected during his tour of appreciation this
+morning, developments were interesting to all, save to the man who had
+laboured under the delusion that several horns and other articles which
+appeared from the bag, were still in his own possession. However,
+probably remembering The Wild Man's character (_vide_ page 205), he said
+nothing, but calmly looked on as his goods were repacked and removed
+from his sight for ever. All honour to such unselfishness.
+
+After a cup of tea and farewells, the ladies were transferred to the
+coaches in a highly skilled manner, and a damp drive to Lucero followed.
+One sheet of drizzling rain surrounded us all through the journey, and
+none were sorry when, after a side slip or two, the coaches drew up (not
+before it was quite dark) outside the estancia house. A change into dry
+garments was very welcome, and there was to be noticed for the first
+time since the start of the Tacuruers, a dull air of respectability
+over the party, as they collected for their evening meal.
+
+Shirt fronts and pretty frocks appeared once more, for here we had a
+lady presiding over the table. Still the old proverb proved true "Fine
+feathers do not make fine birds," and some members of the party did not
+live up to their costumes. It may have been the good dinner, or the
+genial glow of a fire that upset their behaviour, but the fact remains
+that there were two or three unusual occurrences during the course of a
+merry meal. The Kid was observed to be burying her face in a spoonful of
+jelly, and others seemed to be performing a sort of a general post
+during the repast. However, all ended well, and after coffee various
+home pets were introduced by our hostess, who is a devoted lover of
+animals. A nutria appeared and some friendly dogs, and we heard of tame
+foxes and diminutive ponies to be seen next day. It was a great regret
+to everyone that The Delineator did not put in an appearance for dinner;
+he pleaded headache and retired to bed early, perhaps in the hope of
+getting some sleep before The Instigator came to share the room.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+HARD CASE NO. 1.--"T.K." writes to inquire the proper procedure under
+the following circumstances:--"A lady receives a plate of jelly at
+dinner, the gentleman on her right at once takes up her spoon and
+commences to feed her with the jelly." What should she do? And if she
+allows herself to be fed, is it etiquette, this year, for the gentleman
+on her left to give her a slight push, which results in her nose meeting
+the jelly in the spoon? We offer the problems to our readers, and a
+prize will be awarded for the best solution sent in.
+
+LOST.--One pair deer's horns, nicely coloured. If this advertisement
+meets the eye of T.W.M. the owner would be very glad to have the horns
+returned to Michelot, but does not wish to make a point of it.
+
+FOUND.--The reward of L10 for lost ear-ring is withdrawn; owner found
+lost property herself, and has paid for her advertisement.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 5.
+
+_Wednesday, March 30th, 1910._
+
+
+Much to everyone's relief The Delineator appeared at breakfast looking
+himself again; he replied to the enquiries showered upon him that his
+indisposition could be explained in the words used by Herbert Spencer,
+when he defined life as "The continuous adjustment of internal relations
+to external relations." The Delineator said that that formula, when one
+considered the various cookings, including the Oriental style we had
+lately sampled, exactly described the cause of his passing illness, from
+which he was now happily recovered.
+
+The morning was bright, and nothing but the drying mud remained to
+remind us of the rains of yesterday. At breakfast some strange tales
+were told of a frightened nutria which generally slept peacefully under
+a wardrobe in the dressing-room; but last night the room had another
+occupant, whose sleep was not so peaceful as that of the nutria, and at
+the first sound of a snore the poor animal was so scared that it leapt
+from its usual bed and rushed round the room till it found a way of
+escape, through the window, to a more restful soot.
+
+Cattle-dipping was to be the sight of the morning, and as soon as the
+out-door menagerie was explored, under the guidance of our hostess, who
+has a wonderful knack with all animals, the coach and cavalcade of
+riders set forth to the scene of operations. Here we found a large
+number of animals ready to be dipped. This process is necessary to clean
+the animals from the garrapata. This is a tick which has been, and still
+is, the terror of the north. It is the means of transmitting to cattle
+the disease known as "Texas Fever." The rough native cattle do not
+suffer badly from this fever, but any newly imported fine stock from the
+south generally succumb to it.
+
+Time after time wealthy men who realized the menace this pest was to the
+north have attempted to fight it, but their efforts have not been
+successful. Often their loss has been immense, sometimes as many as 95%
+of the total animals brought into the neighbourhood from the Province of
+Buenos Aires have died.
+
+Undoubtedly these constant failures helped to give the northern district
+a bad name, but the experiments with the animals should have been
+carried on by means of acclimatisation. Animals for the north should be
+carefully handled, and with constant vigilance, adapted to their
+surroundings. These are the principles on which the Santa Fe Land
+Company have been working, and they confidently predict that before long
+they will be selling pedigree bulls with tick on them. When this is an
+accomplished fact, another great barrier to the progress of the north
+will have been broken down.
+
+The cattle tick has two phases in its life.
+
+[Illustration: _Cattle leaving Dip._]
+
+After establishing itself on the animal, the tick becomes a blood
+sucker, and at certain seasons animals running wild over unbroken camps,
+become literally covered with these bichos; consequently the cattle fall
+back in condition, and the mortality amongst them mounts up to an
+appallingly large percentage. To obviate this the dip is used, and has
+come into general use. The animals are collected from afar, and brought
+into the corral (a strong enclosure), from which there is a wooden
+passage, having many contrivances useful for marking, branding, and
+dehorning cattle, all of which are used in their due season; but for
+dipping purposes this passage terminates in a precipitous slope, and the
+animals are gently forced along it from the corral to plunge suddenly
+into a prepared bath of a strong solution, which kills every tick; so it
+follows, that if the animal has been totally submerged, it is absolutely
+free from the parasite. The object of dipping is to kill all kinds of
+insects and parasites which trouble the bovine race; especially so the
+common Louse (the Dermatodectis Bovis) which is the scab producer. The
+worst pest is, however, the cattle tick or Garrapata, and known under
+the scientific name of Boophilus Annulatus.
+
+This latter is the harbinger of the microbe of Texas Fever or Tristeza,
+as it is known in the Argentine.
+
+The remedies that are principally employed are of a tarry basis and
+prepared so as to be easily mixed with water, usually in the proportion
+of 1 to 100.
+
+The amount of mixture used is 2.60 litres, and the cost works out at 10
+cents. per head.
+
+The greatest number of animals that the Santa Fe Land Company have been
+able to put through the dip in a day is 6,700, working from 6 a.m. to 5
+p.m.
+
+Animals certainly are frightened the first time they take this bath, but
+very soon they find the comfort of its effect, and come to like and
+enjoy it. The cattle we saw dipped to-day had mostly been through the
+process several times before, and walked calmly down the passage,
+seeming to enjoy their scramble through the dip. On emerging from the
+dip, the animals stand in a small corral on the other side, and are kept
+there for a while to allow the liquor to drain off their hides, and find
+its way back to the tank.
+
+Some of the younger animals seemed scared at the first plunge, and
+though a very great point is made of the fact that they must all be
+collected and driven into the corral and down the passage, with the
+utmost gentleness, some of them grew so disturbed at the unusual
+proceeding, that they leapt on to the animal in front instead of sliding
+down the dip as the older animals do. However, there are always plenty
+of men under the superintendence of the mayor-domo to see that no harm
+comes to any animal, and though in the early days of dips, broken legs
+were not unusual occurrences, nowadays there are very seldom any
+accidents, though thousands of animals may be dipped in a few hours. One
+man holds a curious sort of wide blunt prong, with which he presses the
+heads of any animals, who have not been totally immersed, under the
+liquid as they pass him, thus ensuring the destruction of all parasites.
+
+After this inspection The Instigator and company were taken on to see
+land which was being broken by bullocks, and thence to the Rio Salado,
+(which we are hoping to negotiate much further north to-morrow), and
+returned in time for lunch. After a short pause for rest and a cup of
+tea, the party, this time with their host and hostess, set off for
+various windmills, earth tanks, etc., which were of recent erection, and
+were to be reviewed by The Instigator. Everything he saw seemed to give
+satisfaction, and a weary but happy band returned to the house for
+dinner, in the course of which some native dishes were introduced to us.
+
+Another lovely sunset favoured us this evening as we drove homewards,
+and we hear that My Lady and The Wild Man almost came to a serious
+quarrel over the shapes of various beautifully tinted clouds. One said a
+certain cloud resembled a bear, the other said it was exactly like a
+pork pie "shot" with a diamond tiara, and the matter was still under
+bitter discussion long after the cloud in question had faded away into a
+nebulous mist. The evening was calm and still, and we all sat outside
+after coffee, discussing the unknown journey of to-morrow, and the
+perils that might befall us on our way across the camps. The Instigator
+talked emphatically, and quite unnecessarily, of "an early start is
+imperative," till we all grew tired of his insistence and retired to
+bed, where some of the party wondered under what circumstances they
+would be sleeping to-morrow.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+CORRESPONDENCE.
+
+     LUCERO, _March 30th, 1910._ DEAR SIR,
+
+     May I use the valuable medium of your paper for the purpose of
+     announcing that anyone who wishes to accompany the explorers on the
+     excursion, under the guidance of The Jehu and myself to the wild
+     north, must be ready, decently clothed and fed, with a supply of
+     patience and drinkables in their personal luggage, not later than 6
+     a.m., to-morrow, March 31st, 1910.
+
+     I am, Yours, etc., THE INSTIGATOR.
+
+     P.S.--While taking suitable precautions for the safety and
+     happiness of those who entrust themselves to our care, we wish it
+     to be understood that we cannot hold ourselves responsible for any
+     loss of wearing apparel or other goods, temper, meals, or rest,
+     caused by rain, mosquitoes, frogs, snakes, overeating, or the
+     incompatibility of other passengers, or from any cause
+     whatsoever.--T.I.
+
+     _To the Editor of "The Tacuru."_
+
+     _March 30th, 1910_.
+
+     SIR,
+
+     We should be glad to know if anything can be done to stop the
+     public nuisance in the shape of the amalgamation of two members of
+     the party, who are obviously descended from some long ago Christy
+     Minstrels. We believe that, taken separately, one at a time, at
+     long intervals, the aforesaid members can be tolerated for a few
+     minutes (personally, we find them nauseating to a degree, under the
+     most favourable circumstances), but together, when they attempt to
+     be bright and amusing, and fancy they have a sense of humour and
+     intelligent wit, they are absolutely impossible. They might have
+     been useful (say in 1500) as the final torture decreed by the
+     Inquisition, but in this year of grace of 1910, they are
+     unwarrantable, and we shall be grateful if immediate steps can be
+     taken for their separation, if not for their entire suppression. We
+     are, Dear Sir, still suffering from violent headaches, caused by
+     being shut up in the same coach for three hours with these
+     imbeciles.
+
+     Yours truly,
+
+     T.D. and M.L.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+HARD CASE No. 1.
+
+The prize of five cents has been awarded to a correspondent O.G. (who is
+requested to forward his real name and address as soon as possible) for
+the best solution to the Hard Case we published yesterday. He says that
+in those circumstances the lady should undoubtedly allow herself to be
+fed, and should do all in her power by opening her mouth widely, and
+turning her head slightly in the direction of the gentleman on her
+right, to assist him in his self-imposed task, and thus to avoid giving
+him the impression that he had committed an unusual social solecism in
+commencing to feed her.
+
+Numerous correspondents have sent in solutions, but we consider the
+above the best. Several answers have also been sent to the second part
+of the question, and all agree that the gentleman on the left had no
+shadow of excuse for causing the lady's nose to rest in the jelly. Such
+a proceeding is totally without precedent in the highest circles.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 6.
+
+_Thursday, March 31st, 1910._
+
+THE LARGEST CIRCULATION OF ANY DAILY PAPER PUBLISHED ON THIS TRIP.
+
+Everyone was astir early this morning, remembering The Instigator's
+final warning last night of the necessity for an early start, but, on
+assembling for breakfast at 7 a.m., The Instigator himself was missed.
+His hawk-like eye (we apologise to Our Guest) had noticed some Galpon,
+or drinking trough, or something, which he must, of course, investigate
+before leaving Lucero, and dragging off The Delineator and The Jehu, he
+quite forgot breakfast and the "early start," as he fussed over his
+new-found interest, and it was not until he was captured forcibly by a
+search party that his companions were allowed to come in to
+breakfast--after the rest of the party had finished. Much to everyone's
+delight the morning was bright and fine, and all promised favourably for
+the excursion into the unknown.
+
+While waiting for the start, considerable interest was caused by the
+home-building operations of some birds, who were constructing a nest
+under the eaves of the outbuilding, and manipulating the mud for its
+construction in a most clever manner. One bird flew off to get some mud
+while the other energetically fashioned the last piece into shape in the
+nest, then, when the first returned, the second bird flew off to get her
+contribution of clay; so the moulding of that nest grew apace while we
+watched its progress.
+
+Before we set out a pleading message came (and it was not the first,
+either) from those left at headquarters, begging us to give up our
+exploration scheme, and, in view of weather reports, to return in peace
+to the civilisation of San Cristobal; but needless to say, nothing
+daunted, The Instigator still kept to his determination to see all there
+was to be seen, and the more people try to dissuade him from a thing,
+once he has decided to do it, the more fixed becomes his intention to do
+that thing. So, expostulations were useless, the final preparations and
+farewells were made, a last communication held with Our Hostess at
+Cristobal, before our passing into the wilds, and the Tacuru coaches
+with their freight of precious humans, and still more precious food and
+drink, started off from their pleasant rest at Lucero. Someone was heard
+to murmur as the coaches drove off--
+
+    "Then hey! for boot and horse, lad,
+      And round the world away;
+    The Instigator _must_ have his tour, lad,
+      And _never_ will give way!"
+
+But this puerile parody met with the indifference it deserved, and,
+accompanied by the Section Manager, we commenced our journey, travelling
+for some hours over the land which is in his charge. "Monte," too,
+seemed to consider that his presence as a guide and friend would be
+necessary to the party, and came along with us; he is a "wild" dog of
+the deerhound type, who was taken as a tiny puppy from a litter found in
+a wood near Los Moyes, and has ever since been devoted to his captors.
+There is a calm air of disinterested abstraction about "Monte" which is
+very satisfying, and he is undoubtedly a philosopher. One of the two
+Indian guides we picked up during the day's journey also had a dog, but
+it was of a very different appearance and character to "Monte." "Monte"
+looked on mankind in general as needing his care and supervision, while
+the little black smooth-haired terrier felt "the great passion" for one
+alone. His master was evidently his god, and if he lost sight of
+"master" for two minutes it was really touching to hear his cries,
+almost like those of a child, as he tried to trace his master through
+the shallow water which we sometimes crossed.
+
+His yelps as he splashed along, nose to the ground, almost voiced the
+sentiment:--
+
+    "Rank and wealth I pass unheeding,
+      Never giving them their due;
+    For my heart and soul are needing,
+      Nothing in the world but "YOU!"
+
+And he and his "YOU" were never very far apart.
+
+In a country where kindness to animals is not considered necessary, and
+is very rarely found, this example of devotion between dog and man was
+all the more noticeable and appreciated. Needless to say, as soon as The
+Saint observed it she wanted to "give the man a present," and was only
+restrained from doing so because she had nothing suitable for
+presentation in her luggage, or in that of The Instigator.
+
+About one o'clock we came to the banks of the Salado, concerning the
+crossing of which river we had heard so much. We had been told it was
+impossible and impassable; that the rains had swollen the river too much
+for a safe passage; that at the best of times the banks were too steep
+and slippery for carts to negotiate, and that all idea of crossing had
+better be given up. The Instigator and The Jehu merely smiled when they
+heard of these difficulties, but some members of the party had wondered
+how the traversing of that river was to be accomplished, and they were
+agreeably surprised, on reaching the spot chosen for crossing, to find
+that a tenant had built a narrow "tajamar," or earth bank, across the
+river, which at this place was not very wide. Everyone dismounted, the
+horses were taken out, and all hands were in request to pull the
+vehicles across. First went the coaches, then the luggage carts were
+dragged over. To illustrate the difficulties of the proceedings we
+publish one of the many photos taken, during the crossing of the
+tajamar. Our Guest was one of the first to help in the conveyance of
+these carts. Apparently, since the gate-opening episode, he has "learnt
+the wisdom early to discern true beauty in utility," for he is always to
+the fore when work is to be done, and in this case his athletic training
+proved the truth of the Yankee expression that "It's muscle that tells."
+The Delineator and The Wild Man, as usual, when real hard work presents
+itself, "thought the party would like photographs of it," and, armed
+with their cameras, retired to safe distances, where the work could not
+possibly interfere with them or they with it, and took photos of the
+progress of the carts. We cannot complain, however, of their action (or
+inaction, rather), for the resulting pictures make a good memorial of
+the crossing of the Salado by the "Tacuruers." The ladies rushed to
+assist when they saw that photos were being taken, but, as the carts
+were well over the danger line by the time the ladies were at the
+ropes, we have no pictured record of their deeds, which, we may note,
+were really quite valueless at this point.
+
+[Illustration: _Crossing the Salado._]
+
+[Illustration: _The Effect of a Long Drought_.]
+
+Once the horses, carts, and luggage were safely across the tajamar the
+more serious business of cocktails and lunch was thought of, and, in an
+incredibly short time, the usual asado of meat, brought from Lucero, was
+under discussion.
+
+The unfortunate sheep who were still spared were let out for a short
+run.
+
+The Kid, too, was set free in the hopes that she might possibly prove
+useful now, but, judging from her attitude during the preparations for
+lunch, we should say those hopes would not be fulfilled.
+
+As we rest after our arduous crossing of the Salado, our thoughts are
+inclined to wander to the awful tragedy enacted here in the year 1904.
+It was a disastrous year for many of the northern camp men. There was an
+appalling drought of long continuation, for which all the northern camps
+were totally unprepared; the river over which we have just passed became
+the concentration spot for all that is most terrible at such times. It
+is not exaggerating the case when we say that 15,000 animals (some of
+them having travelled south for 100 miles or more), forced by instinct,
+and guided by wire fences, came to drink from the foul, polluted chain
+of water-holes which then represented this river. One can imagine the
+horror and distress of it all--not a blade of grass for miles, where
+to-day the vegetation is luxuriant, and not a drop of water in this
+river on whose banks we are resting, only a few mud-holes in which
+hundreds of decaying carcases were embedded. This is what the cattle
+found after their long journey south, through which they were daily
+growing weaker. It is not surprising to hear that, at one place alone
+on the river-bed, over 3,000 hides were taken off dead animals, and,
+probably, it is well within the mark to say that at least another 1,000
+were lost. Well may we wonder, "Why this terrible suffering and loss?"
+And the answer comes back, "Human negligence." It was the want of wells
+which caused all this misery; cattle will bear drought for a long time,
+but the actual want of water maddens them and causes the death of
+thousands. If the northern camps are to be colonised and are to become
+prosperous, the first necessity is the obtaining of a supply of good
+water; second in importance only to the water supply is the fencing of
+the camps, by which means a control over the cattle is established;
+refined camps, better grasses, and alfalfa, will all follow in due
+course; and anyone who has studied these northern lands would have no
+hesitation in predicting that these camps will, in time, prove just as
+profitable as any in the vast Republic of Argentina, and this is saying
+a good deal, as those who have travelled over the rich southern camps
+will realise. But, for his own sake, and for the sake of the cattle in
+his care, let it be the first business of the estanciero to provide good
+and sufficient wells, so that the terrible history of 1904 may never be
+repeated.
+
+[Illustration: _Refined Camps._]
+
+However, the scene is different to-day, with a pleasant sunshine, the
+crisp air sweeping over the uncultivated camp of natural grasses, and
+plenty of water in the river; but we cannot linger, so, after the pipe
+of peace for some, and a short siesta for others, "the all-aboard" bugle
+was sounded, horses were put in, carts packed once more, and, after a
+farewell to our host--who was returning to the section house--we went on
+ahead into the wilder regions, and had a pleasant, though rather short,
+drive for two or three hours before The Jehu called a halt. He explained
+that we should require at least an hour for the unloading and erection
+of the tents, tables, etc., before dusk; therefore, as the sun was only
+a hand's breadth from the horizon (roughly speaking, an hour before
+setting), we must dismount. He had chosen a pleasant spot for the camp
+of the night, not far from a small ranch, and here the coaches halted.
+Of course the luggage carts could not come up until some time later, as
+their loads were so much heavier, and My Lady became even more popular
+than usual when she suggested that the wait should be beguiled with a
+cup of tea, and produced her tea-basket from the coach; true, we found
+that there was no tea, but My Lady had plenty of cocoa. Water was
+obtained from the house near by, and a very welcome cup of cocoa handed
+round, accompanied by an unexpected slice of cake which apparently
+appeared from nowhere, and which disappeared equally effectively, for it
+was decidedly useful fodder and appreciated as such by all.
+
+We discovered here that our friend "Monte" had declined to go back after
+lunch with his present master to Lucero, but had chosen to accompany his
+past master on this expedition. His presence was an agreeable surprise.
+He was found surveying the party with his calm scrutiny, and apparently
+he approved of our spot for camping, also of the cake.
+
+As The Chaperon could find no work to do before the carts arrived, he,
+for once, relaxed from his terrible strain of usefulness, and tided over
+the tedious hour by trying to "throw the knife" in the most approved
+cowboy manner. As each member of the party had had their "tea" (he was
+practising with the knife which was used for the carving of the
+cake--and anything else, when needed), no one objected to this harmless
+amusement on his part, provided he did not pitch the knife on to their
+toes; and, after long exercise, with the help of The Wild Man, who is
+an adept at these tricks, The Chaperon at last succeeded in "throwing
+the knife" to his satisfaction, and others' terror. A sigh of relief
+escaped the lips of those who were dodging the knife when they saw the
+luggage-carts looming in the distance. They at once drew the attention
+of The Chaperon to the approach of the carts, and were rejoiced to see
+him return the weapon to its sheath (in his leggings), and stiffen into
+the attitude of action once more.
+
+No sooner were the carts on the spot than every member of the party was
+at work, or pretending to be so. Poles were taken off the carts, luggage
+uncovered, canvas was everywhere, yells for "the mallet" alternated with
+the resounding blows struck, with the same, by the strong men of the
+band, tent-pegs bristled all over the ground, everyone wanted the hammer
+at the same time, and apparent chaos reigned for half an hour; then,
+behold! as by magic, the din ceased, two tents had been securely
+erected, floored with canvas, the luggage was placed under another
+covering of canvas, a table, with plates, knives, forks, etc., was ready
+in an open space, camp-stools stood around it, beds, blankets, sheets
+and pillows galore were in each tent, and the smell of roasting meat in
+the distance rose pleasantly upon the air. The place looked as if the
+party had been accustomed to camp there regularly once a week, so well
+was everything arranged. Nothing had been forgotten which could add
+comfort, for all hands had been working hard, and each peon, too, had
+done his share; in fact, the sight would have rejoiced the soul of the
+most ardent, red-tied Socialist, for surely never did a community carry
+out more thoroughly the principle of "each one working for the happiness
+of others." True, there was no trade union to limit their exertions, but
+that was an omission for which we may be thankful.
+
+As the dusk quickly deepened, the peons gathered round their fire, over
+which the meat was cooking, a little distance from the camp site; the
+lamps were lit and hung from poles, and the party looked with
+satisfaction on their handiwork. It would have made an interesting, and
+not unpicturesque illustration, if one could have obtained a photo of
+the "Primera Vista" camp that evening.
+
+But it was at this time, just when all seemed smiling and happy, that
+the travellers were to go through their first real trial, for here the
+discovery was made of a serious loss. It was spoken of in whispers at
+first, but gradually the whispers increased to a murmur as the loss
+became generally known; yet neither man nor woman quailed, and none
+could have told from their outward bearing the bitter struggle they were
+inwardly facing. A cynical traveller once said, after noting the
+innumerable number of statues in the land, "South America has evidently
+produced a phenomenal number of heroes," but we are inclined to think
+their tale has not been told if those who bore their trouble so bravely
+that night are to be "unhonoured and unsung." Think what it meant, you
+who may read this, in years to come, in civilised places, comfortably
+seated in your armchairs, conveniently near the cellaret, and,--honour
+our brave! They had at least two days to face (with no prospect of
+obtaining supplies anywhere) and they discovered, here, that _the case
+of whisky was lost,_ left behind, vanished--they knew not what, only
+that it had disappeared!
+
+    Theirs not to reason why,
+    Theirs not to moan or sigh,
+    E'en though their throats were dry,
+            Noble "Tacuruers"!
+
+True, the comforting thought that they still had a bottle and a-half of
+the precious drink with them may have helped them to keep their spirits
+up with the hope of pouring spirits down, but a bottle and a-half is
+not much amongst so many thirsty souls for three days, and, we repeat,
+that great courage and bravery was shown by the equanimity with which
+the party bore the news of their loss.
+
+A minor loss was that the dinner napkins were not forthcoming, but that
+surprised no one, for they were in the charge of The Kid, and, of
+course, she had forgotten them at Lucero. We believe she said something
+about their being "left to be washed" there, but no one listened to her,
+and we used glass cloths instead.
+
+At our first camp evening meal everyone did justice to the goods that
+The Chaperon provided. Coffee was not forgotten, and, after their
+dinner, the more musical members of the band tried to sing--it kept the
+mosquitoes off--and when "a catch" was attempted even the bicho colorado
+was cowed into silence. We had looked forward to hearing the guitar
+played by one of the peons here. He had brought his instrument with him,
+but, unfortunately, had dropped a large packing case upon it, which did
+not improve its tone, and this accident prevented our hearing the
+national dances played on a guitar in the open camp as we had hoped to
+do.
+
+Weary with the exertions of the day the party turned their thoughts and
+steps early towards those tents where rows of little bedsteads, each
+with its mosquito net above, looked so attractively inviting, and before
+long lights were out and peace reigned as far as possible.
+
+    "Thus done the Vales to bed they creep,
+    By whispering winds soon lulled asleep."
+
+Guards were set and they, with Monte, were left to protect the horses
+and camp through the night.
+
+CORRESPONDENCE.
+
+     _March 31st, 1910._
+
+     SIR,
+
+     I feel that, as I am in a measure responsible for the presence of
+     the two people to whom your correspondents of yesterday object, I
+     should like to apologise, through the medium of your paper, for the
+     inconvenience these two people have caused, and to assure your
+     correspondents that steps shall be taken to prevent a repetition of
+     the annoyance. The fact is, that both of them are so rarely out of
+     Bedlam at the same time that I had not realised the necessity for
+     keeping them apart, nor the danger of their amalgamation, but they
+     shall be kept in separate coaches in future, and I can only express
+     my sincere regret for the mischief and trouble they have caused.
+
+     I am,
+
+     Yours, etc.,
+
+     THE INSTIGATOR.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+A correspondent writes to know if any of our readers can solve the
+following problem for her:--"'A' starts on a seven days' journey with
+eighty-seven horses, he loses two, one of which he finds next day, and
+at the end of the week has 110 horses." The enquirer has searched
+through her "Hamblin Smith" but can find no honest method of solution.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENTS.
+
+EXPERT GUIDE.--Anyone requiring a really good guide, thoroughly
+conversant with the Chaco, ways of wild Indians and animals, please
+apply "T.W.M.," Offices of this paper. Good shot, can cook and sew,
+able to point out all the beauties of nature, animal and vegetable.
+Terms moderate. Inspires confidence in the most timid ladies by his
+winning smile.
+
+LOST.--One tin of gingerbread biscuits (Huntley & Palmer). No reward is
+offered, as they will probably be eaten by the time this advertisement
+is in print. If anyone would return the tin, as a recuerdo, to Lucero,
+advertiser would be obliged.
+
+LOST.--Lucero. Several good horses.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Several correspondents have written to know whether it is not a menace
+to the rest of the community for one member of the band to sleep
+promiscuously on the bricks, or anywhere else handy, at night. Two or
+three say they have tripped over him in the dark and consider it would
+be a safeguard if anyone preferring to spend the night in this way were
+compelled by law to burn an anchor or other light. They are quite
+willing to believe that the offender had had at least one "starboard
+light" at some period of that night, but that light had lost its power
+of illumination at the time our correspondents tripped over the
+prostrate figure, and they wish to suggest that in future, people
+sleeping out should use some means to safeguard unwary passers-by. (We
+give the complaint the publicity it deserves and trust steps will be
+taken to right the matter.--ED.)
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 7.
+
+_Friday, April 1st, 1910._
+
+ADVERTISE IN "THE TACURU"--THIS ENSURES YOUR WANTS BEING KNOWN IN EVERY
+COACH.
+
+
+We fancy that most of the party were awake to see the dawn this morning:
+it may have been that they only saw the first streaks of light between
+the openings of their tent as they lay in bed trying to soothe the
+itching of the mosquito bites, but we think that few were asleep as the
+sun rose gloriously from the mists on the horizon. It was a strange
+sight, the sudden flooding with bright sunlight of that rough camp land,
+which scarcely owned a tree or shrub. It may be the primitive barbarian
+lying dormant in all of us though hidden under generations of
+civilization, which makes us feel a close communion with Nature when we
+see her in these great uncultivated wastes; but, whatever the causes of
+the sympathy, these pictures, of wild untouched Nature, leave an
+impression and a longing more deep than any experience gained in years
+of civil life; none will ever regret having seen that sunrise on the
+plain, though all regretted the cause of their wakefulness this morning.
+
+Of course The Chaperon was up and clothed (he always seemed to be) and
+ready to get basins of water, looking-glasses, shaving materials and all
+luxuries for the others. The ladies were heard to enquire why he did not
+bring them early tea and hot water, but, on the whole, he combined the
+duties of valet and maid fairly efficiently.
+
+Rumour has it that The Chaperon had given instructions that he was to be
+called by the guard an hour before dawn, so, in the dark, he was
+awakened by hoarse whispers of his name and gentle shakings. After he
+arose it occurred to him that it felt more like the middle of the night
+than the morning, and he enquired of the peon what time it was, the
+answer coming in soft Spanish, "Can't say, the cocks have not crowed
+yet!!!" On investigation The Chaperon found it was scarcely 4 a.m., so
+spent the remaining two hours sitting round the camp fire with the
+peons, alternately dozing and sucking mate. We believe he heard some
+expert opinions on the subject of the "roncadors" of the camp during his
+vigil. At any rate he had full opportunity for proving the reality of
+Ruskin's words, "There is no solemnity so deep to a right-thinking
+creature as that of dawn." At the same time he was heard to murmur
+something to the effect that he would prefer a little less of the "deep
+solemnity" and a little more of "deep slumber" another morning.
+
+Scarcely were the toilets, and the packing of personal luggage,
+accomplished, before a request was made that the mosquito nets and beds
+might be removed for loading, and, as we emerged from the various tents,
+the breakfast-table greeted us ready laden with tea (from the kettle),
+sardines, jam, peons' biscuits, etc. True, the only milk procurable was
+some condensed milk, which had "gone solid," there were not enough
+knives to go round, and a few other irregularities, but no little items
+of that sort ever disturbed the temper of The Tacuruers; they simply
+remarked with the other "Autocrat of the Breakfast Table," "Difficulties
+are Nature's challenges to you," and used one spoon for all their cups,
+tore off lumps of bread with their fingers (when they could get hold of
+a loaf), and used the same plate and knife for jam and sardines alike,
+and enjoyed their early meal.
+
+[Illustration: "_Rich black alluvial Soil_."]
+
+There was one subject that did cause sore feeling, and that was
+mosquitoes. We had thought we knew all about them, we were proud with
+the conceit of nets, ammonia, and veils, but our pride had a fall.
+Comparatively speaking, we had only known mosquitoes theoretically
+before (though that knowledge was bad enough); last night we learnt of
+them practically, none of us had thought of _tucking in_ our nets, and
+mosquitoes seemed to swarm up under each net before we had been in bed
+for half an hour. Little peace did anyone get through those long night
+hours, and, though a voice came from one of the tents about 2 a.m.,
+remarking clearly above the intermittent snores, "Oh! how lovely," few
+echoed the sentiment, and the speaker assured us this morning that she
+was only dreaming, and that her words did not refer to insects of any
+kind, neither were they made in connection with the upheaval caused by
+"Monte" at one period of the night. He had taken up his quarters at one
+end of the ladies' tent, but was disturbed from his beauty sleep by the
+sudden barking of a dog outside the other end of the tent. This, of
+course, must be seen to; it was his duty, so, leaping up, he rushed
+through the tent, lifting up each one of the low beds, and their
+occupants, as he passed under them on his way to quell the outside
+noise. The ladies forbore to scream, though they thought of earthquakes,
+but settled down again to their occupation of trying to kill mosquitoes,
+quietly, in the dark, and to snatch moments of slumber occasionally.
+
+After breakfast, Our Guest was rather unkindly "put on" by The
+Instigator to dig holes, to ascertain how deep the rich, black, alluvial
+soil reached; the ladies energetically washed up the breakfast things,
+which occupation resulted in The Kid once more, and this time finally,
+being given notice to leave, without a character, owing to general
+incompetence, impertinence, and lack of ability to wash out tea-cloths.
+
+By 7 a.m. the coaches and carts were ready, horses rounded up, the
+"Primera Vista" camp was struck, and the march onward recommenced. But
+not before The Chaperon had pointed out a terror that "might have been."
+After breakfast he approached us with a stick held at arm's length, on
+which hung a dead, slimy-looking, grey snake, about 4 feet long. He
+explained that this reptile had crawled over the neck of one of the
+peons as he lay on the grass last night. This had happened before we
+went to bed, and we felt grateful to The Chaperon for having saved us
+from another horror last night by keeping the fact, and snake, to
+himself until we were leaving that camp.
+
+The first part of our drive to-day was a new experience; we had passed
+over a few ant-hills before on our journey, but now we came to a land
+where it was difficult, if not impossible, to dodge them; they literally
+covered the ground, and the South American ant-hill is a power to be
+reckoned with. It is not the yielding mass composed of soft earth and
+other heterogeneous materials as found in England, which can be
+demolished with a kick, should anyone have sufficient temerity to lay
+himself open to the attacks of the inmates by thus disturbing them; but
+the homes of the black ant, and the Amazon ant, in Argentina are quite a
+different affair. They are, usually, solid, hard masses of earth from
+three to four feet high, very wide at the base, and covered entirely
+with coarse grass. They present an unyielding obstacle to any vehicle,
+and the wheels of even a heavily laden cart make no impression on them,
+but they are not unlikely to cause the overturning of that cart, and
+even traction engines suffer from the sudden drop caused by these
+gigantic sugar-loaves. Therefore it will be easily realized that the
+innumerable ant-hills through, and over which, we drove, were no
+inconsiderable menace to the safety of the party, and it was only due to
+the great care and skill of our drivers in threading their way amongst
+these obstacles that the inmates of the coaches were not upset time
+after time. As it was, no accident of the slightest description
+occurred--only a few bumps and jolts as we ascended or descended one of
+the ant-hills, which are so difficult to discern in open camp, where the
+whole land is covered alike with long grass. The worst part of our
+travelling did not last more than three or four hours; then we came to
+smoother country, fewer ant-hills, and occasional small lagunas, the
+land growing slightly undulating, though still bare of trees, and, after
+another three hours' driving, during which we had many changes of horses
+and several "helps" from the guides over extra bad pieces of travelling,
+we could see in the distance the position of the Lake Palmar and the
+tops of the palms which grow on the farther shore.
+
+It was during this part of our day's journey that the peons made two
+captures of live animals in an armadillo and a nutria. These men have
+extraordinary good and far sight, and observe any movement in the grass,
+yards ahead of them. They at once killed both animals, for they are
+exceedingly fond of armadillo flesh, and cook the animal in its skin.
+
+It was decided that horses and drivers alike would require a rest when
+we reached the shores of the lake, and, after our cocheros had made
+futile attempts to cut figures of 8 with their respective four and
+two-in-hands on the invitingly firm, yellow sands which surround Lake
+Palmar, all dismounted, horses were taken out, and, while lunch was
+being prepared, the party wandered on the shores of the lake trying to
+find remnants of extinct monsters, fossilised palms, and other
+improbable things. The Instigator rushed up and down picking leaves to
+bits, collecting sand and examining it under the microscope (which is,
+as yet, his), tasting the water of the lake, and generally trying to
+find a way of teaching Nature how to improve on her own handiwork. It
+really seems a pity She does not engage him as her expert consulting
+engineer. My Lady and The Saint did discover a boar-hound's tooth on the
+sands, and two teeth of a nutria, very pretty in their long, gentle
+curve, white at the root and gradually deepening to a reddish-brown at
+the end; but both these finds were absolutely valueless, and, though
+there was talk of having the teeth set as brooches, etc., connoisseurs,
+such as The Wild Man, knew well that the "finds" would be dissolved to
+dust long before they could reach the civilisation of a jeweller's shop.
+
+The tiny banks which slope down from the camp to meet the wide
+stretching sands of the lake are covered with scrub and low trees of the
+acacia type, and, on one of these low trees, eked out with camp stools,
+the party, wearied with their search for curios, settled down to await
+their mid-day meal. It was gently broken to us that the sheep had at
+last been sacrificed, and would shortly appear before us in a different
+guise. The slaughter must have been most humane, for no one of us had
+heard the slightest cry or sound of distress, and now the flesh was
+being cooked. The peons would always prefer to cook all meat in the
+hide, if they were allowed to do so, and it is only with constant
+watching that they are prevented from thus wasting the valuable skins of
+animals. They are enormous meat eaters, which is scarcely to be wondered
+at, considering how scarce green food is. They live on meat, mate, and
+hard biscuits.
+
+The bright idea occurred to someone that a _hors-d'oeuvre_ would be
+acceptable, considering how long ago we had had our meagre early morning
+meal, so the only available article, a tinned Dutch cheese, was
+attacked; and none but those who have tried, under similar
+circumstances, one of the soft Dutch cheeses which one obtains in the
+Argentine, would be able to understand how very good it can be. As it
+was handed round (to everyone on the same knife), hunger, open-air, and
+the exercise of the ant-hills caused it to be appreciated more than
+usual, even beyond its deserts, if possible.
+
+As the party were thus collected (mostly with their legs tucked away to
+prevent the climbing operations of the black ants with which the ground
+was swarming), The Instigator took this opportunity to try to rid
+himself of some of the responsibility of the trip by calling a meeting
+(the whole nine were already there), and putting it to the vote as to
+whether The Kid, now that she had lost her companions the sheep, should
+be turned adrift to find her way back again as best she could, drowned
+in the lake, or allowed to accompany the party for the rest of the
+journey. A wild gleam of joy lit the eyes of everyone who knew anything
+of her at this prospect of getting rid of the trial. Both the ladies,
+and everyone who had known her for longer than the week, voted, hands
+and feet, for her extinction, but four of the men were foolishly too
+polite to express their real wishes. So she herself was left with the
+casting vote, and chose to go on! Thus The Instigator's well-thought
+plan to remove an incubus was frustrated. He was so disgusted with his
+failure in a laudable object that, directly after "lunch" (which meant
+each one cutting off from the half-sheep, that was handed round, the
+piece he or she preferred), he went off with his microscope trying to
+find other interests, and in a few minutes was growing unduly excited
+over a shrub on which he discovered some most unusual excrescences.
+These shapeless masses of earth, apparently growing on the shrub, he was
+examining from all points with the naked eye before submitting them to
+microscopic investigation, and it was only when Our Guest came up and
+removed some of the earth from one of the excrescences that The
+Instigator, who was watching intently, noted that the mass resolved
+itself into the shape of one of The Saint's shoes, which had been hung
+up on the shrub to dry after her lake-searching expedition. Foiled
+again, The Instigator collected The Delineator and My Lady, and started
+to walk to the northern end of the lake, where The Jehu could pick them
+up, when the washing, packing and harnessing allowed of an onward move.
+We are told that for once The Kid, perhaps stimulated by her recent
+narrow escape from total extinction, really did do some work here. It is
+true we only have her word, an indistinct murmur from The Chaperon, and
+some clean plates to vouch for the statement, as all the other members
+of the party remaining were lying in more or less graceful slumberous
+attitudes in carts, under trees, or anywhere else, enjoying forty winks.
+Some excellent photos were obtained of the sleeping beauties as they lay
+there resting, but their modesty caused them to beg for forbearance in
+the publication of any of the pictures thus obtained.
+
+Before the actual start was made, The Jehu, Our Guest, The Chaperon, and
+The Wild Man tried their hands at some revolver-shooting. Naturally, the
+drivers, after their long hours with the reins, could not do themselves
+justice with the more dangerous weapons, but, combined with Our Guest
+and The Wild Man, they left a fair show of broken bottles in the lake,
+rather to the surprise of the lookers-on.
+
+Neither of our cocheros could resist the further opportunity of figures
+of eight as we drove off on the hard sand, but we believe they were not
+encouraged in these exhibitions by their passengers, and, skirting the
+North part of the lake they came to a little ranch where they had
+arranged to meet the three walkers, who had discovered divers
+interesting specimens of animal, vegetable and mineral kinds during
+their very pleasant stroll round the lake. Here they were sitting at
+the ranch awaiting the arrival of the coaches, and they introduced the
+newcomers to a marvellous collection of tame birds with whom they had
+made acquaintance. The owners of the ranch had six or seven birds of
+different kinds, which flew about and pitched on anyone's shoulder or
+hand, or on the carriages, and were most friendly; in fact, one big bird
+was so willing to become attached to us that we could scarcely persuade
+it to leave the coach when we were ready to drive on.
+
+We allowed those who had driven to the spot a few moments in which to
+dismount and greet the neat little mistress of the ranch, with whom we
+had already made friends, and her pretty children. The roofing of this
+little ranch and its out-houses was most interesting. It was carried out
+entirely with trunks of palm trees. These, split in half and cleared of
+all sap, made very effective roofing, placed alternately in concave and
+convex form, so that the ridges of the two lengths of trunk placed bark
+upward rest in the hollow of the intervening trunk. Naturally, all rain
+water drains off the convex half into the concave trunk and flows down
+these gullies into the water course formed of another hollowed palm
+trunk running along the lower edge of the roof. A more suitable and
+rainproof roof could scarcely be designed. The mistress of the house was
+most anxious to entertain us to tea, but, having picked up our guide
+from Vera, who it was arranged should meet us here with letters, we
+could not spare time for further delay, and once more started off with
+the guide ahead of us.
+
+After leaving the ranch we turned to the eastward, and before long
+passed over the Calchaqui river (which is more generally known as the
+Golondrino here). This was not a difficult matter.
+
+After crossing the Calchaqui we enter quite a new country, the land is
+perceptibly higher, the grasses are finer and trees begin to appear.
+First we came to the tall palm trees on the edge of the forest, and very
+imposing they were, then small montes gave place to the regular woods
+which stretch North on this side of the river, and trees abound. The
+scenery was altogether more tropical. Occasional flocks of bright pink
+flamingoes made a welcome touch of colour as they stood on the edge of
+some little laguna, or, disturbed by the unusual approach of coaches,
+flew off in the distance. Hares were to be seen now and then, and
+sometimes even one of the small wild deer of the forest was noticed
+before it rushed off to the shelter of the trees.
+
+Unfortunately, about this time, the sun, which had been so friendly all
+day, became overcast with clouds, and the sky assumed a threatening
+appearance; but, notwithstanding the wise head-shakings of those who
+know the country (The Delineator and The Jehu in particular), the party
+refused to be downhearted, and asserted that rain was the most unlikely
+event, and, in any case, they intended to enjoy their present drive
+through scenery which was not unlike that which would be found in an
+English park; the great expanses were gone, and in their place we had
+slightly undulating stretches of grass bordered with trees of all kinds.
+The whole aspect of the land had changed and the country here was
+extremely pretty, though no distant views could be obtained owing to the
+thick growth of the trees and the impossibility of finding any but the
+slightest rising ground.
+
+We arrived, before long, at a little ranch, in the neighbourhood of
+which we were to encamp for the night. The spot was very different to
+our camp of last night, for here we were surrounded with trees, and near
+by a flock of sheep, belonging to the ranch, were feeding. Before the
+heavier carts could arrive, and the work of tent-erecting commence,
+there was plenty of time for a cup of tea, with the aid of My Lady's
+useful basket; but all the water that could be obtained from the
+so-called "well" at the ranch was half mud, and, though this was used
+with great success, we could only secure two mouthfuls of tea from each
+cup, as the rest of the contents was composed of mud. We believe The Kid
+was rather annoyed about this, and felt distinctly aggrieved, but she
+did not dare to give vent to her feelings, and the matter did not worry
+those who were looking forward to "cocktails" before dinner, and well
+they deserved those "cocktails," for by the time the carts arrived the
+atmosphere had become intensely close; a slight drizzle seemed only to
+add to the damp heat, and the work of unloading and erecting tents, and
+beds, and unpacking in that warm, steaming air, which was intensified
+under the coverings, was no light one; but here, again, everyone
+performed their quota, whether large or small, for the general good.
+Before long the tents were up. Three were erected to-night, as, owing to
+the rain, we should be obliged to have food under canvas. The Instigator
+caused great admiration by cunningly using trees as supports in the
+erection of the tents under his supervision, and thus hurrying matters
+on. Everything was finished, beds made, luggage under cover, the table
+laid ready in the tent, and lamps lit and suspended before the short
+twilight had given place to complete darkness, and The Saint once more
+earned the blessings and gratitude of all by thoughtfully insisting on a
+general "washing of faces." As she marshalled the party in front of her,
+and attacked each one with sponge and towel, we were irresistibly
+reminded of a board school; but that sponge of toilet vinegar, after the
+damp heat and all the work, was one of the most refreshing things
+imaginable, and everyone felt cleaner and more cheerful after this
+ablution, and ready to attack the poor little armadillo, which had been
+cooked; this meat tastes very much like sucking pig. The rain, which was
+coming down heavily by this time, was powerless to damp the spirits of
+the party as they sat down to dinner. They were only troubled because
+they feared this would be their last evening meal in camp, and that
+Civilisation might again claim them for her own to-morrow, for a great
+deal of the enjoyment of this trip has been due, undoubtedly, to its
+incomparable freedom. So they spent the time in eating, and holding a
+mutual admiration society meeting. Each decided (between the mouthfuls
+of mutton and armadillo) that every other member of the party was just
+the nicest person that he or she had ever met, and, as there was no one
+there to contradict the obviously erroneous statements, all were
+satisfied and content, and drank each other's healths with enthusiasm,
+and--whatever else was left. Someone even tried to murmur something
+kindly about The Kid. Above all, the Instigator was eulogised, and
+rightly, too, for his genial influence helped everything to go well; no
+one could have grumbled at the little inconveniences which they had had
+to put up with at times, while The Instigator was so cheerful and
+anxious for others' comfort and careless of his own through all. His
+interest in, and enthusiasm for, his Company know no bounds. Get him to
+hold forth, and he will tell you how, in the early days of the Company,
+matters were quite different from what they are to-day. The shares stood
+then at five shillings each, and the bankers refused to allow an
+overdraft of L2,000, and when it became absolutely necessary to have
+money he actually made advances out of his own pocket to supply the
+requisite funds.
+
+Shortly afterwards matters began to improve, and when he visited the
+property in 1900 he was able to send this reassuring message to the
+General Meeting:--"I honestly believe the worst is past, and that in
+future we shall progress."
+
+He always appraises the work of others whether the result of their
+operations is successful or not, and he will appreciate the mental and
+manual exertions expended on the undertaking by the employees of the
+Company at their true worth. All he asks of his colleagues and
+subordinates is that each one shall "play the game" in every sense of
+the word to the best of his ability. He never paints the prospects of a
+beginner in rosy hues; in fact, he has been known to speak of the
+hardships and privations which a young man must be prepared to go
+through on first joining the Company as being comparable to "the life of
+a dog." To-day the men who have been through those first years of
+necessary self-denial and hard work are grateful for the training they
+have received and anxious to work their best for the Company.
+
+For a long while the party sat talking of their experiences on this
+trip, and of the Company and its prospects. The travelling over this
+comparatively unknown land had been a revelation to most; the dormant
+wealth lying in the camp must be enormous, but men, money, and brains
+are needed to exploit it. Unfortunately, it is still difficult to get
+colonists for these more northern districts, but when the railway which
+is contemplated becomes an accomplished fact, as it assuredly must,
+people will be attracted further north, colonisation will be easier, the
+land will yield its hundredfold, and some one will, in time, have
+performed the great deed of "making two blades of grass grow where only
+one grew before." It may seem to those accustomed to the narrower life
+of towns, a lonely, empty life to spend one's years and energies
+improving these wild lands; but assuredly the man who labours here with
+the best that is in him, not only earns a great reward for himself in
+the gradual development and growth of that land, but has deserved well
+of mankind in general, and will, some day, receive his "Well done," than
+which there is no higher praise, as surely as those whose lives have
+been spent in the more public fields of civilisation or in military
+prowess.
+
+For some, obscure reason it is generally supposed that the man who
+spends his life in agricultural pursuits is bound to have his mental
+abilities dulled by the continuous round of duties connected with the
+land and the care of animals. The origin of this idea is difficult to
+imagine, unless it be that agriculture is the oldest and most necessary
+pursuit of mankind; but surely the man who has to keep a perpetual watch
+on wind, weather and workers, animal and vegetable kingdom and natural
+phenomena, and be ready to anticipate any change, besides being
+thoroughly in touch with all the latest improvements, mechanical and
+material, in reference to his calling, and conversant with the ruling
+prices in the best markets, cannot be held to be a man whose perceptions
+are becoming blunted by his business. It is certainly true that there
+are many who do "let things go," but that class is not confined to
+agriculturists alone, and in agriculture, as in all other callings,
+those who "let things slide" very shortly find that most things have
+slid away from them irrevocably. Certainly the Argentine is no place for
+the man disinclined for exertion. She holds rewards, and great rewards;
+but only for the resolute who are prepared to lead a strenuous and
+self-denying life of labour, exposure and fatigue, and who come to her
+determined to win the best from her rich lands, and to take every
+opportunity as it comes in their way for improving their knowledge.
+
+Plans were made for to-morrow's journey; there was talk, if the day was
+fine and the way possible, of going first south-east to the tannin
+factory at La Gallareta, then due north to Las Gamas, but it was feared
+that the recent heavy rains in this district would have made the
+undertaking of the two journeys on one day inadvisable, and the Indian
+guide persuaded the "leaders" that it would be wiser to go straight to
+Las Gamas to-morrow and leave the visit to the factory for Monday. This
+would give Tuesday for Santa Lucia and Wednesday for Vera. Sarnosa and
+Olmos could be visited from one or the other of these two estancias,
+and, leaving Vera on Friday afternoon, San Cristobal would be reached on
+Saturday evening.
+
+As we dispersed in the rain to our various tents, a slight thunder and
+lightning storm commenced, but, notwithstanding this, we were happy in
+the assurance that our troubles from mosquitoes were likely to be less
+virulent to-night, owing to our proximity to the sheepfold of the ranch.
+Therefore, as good disciples of the immortal Pepys, we quote--and with
+appropriate action--"So to bed."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ADVERTISEMENT.
+
+
+OUT OF WORK.--Advertiser wants situation as general help; might be
+useful in tea-taster's office; hard work not so much an object as high
+wages and comfortable living. Advertiser could take immediate situation.
+No references.--T.K., _Second Coach_.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.
+
+
+T.C. writes in answer to the arithmetical problem of yesterday's date,
+"Yes, if A starts with 87 horses, loses 2, and finds 1, he does end the
+journey with 110, for he collects 24 more at the last estancia. Only
+experts can do this; hence your correspondent's failure to find a
+solution."
+
+LOST.--One watch and chain (said to be gold), trinkets attached
+containing several locks of hair and portraits of ten or twelve
+gentlemen. If finder would return portraits and hair, owner would be
+obliged.--T.K.
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 8.
+
+_Saturday, April 2nd, 1910._
+
+THE CIRCULATION OF "THE TACURU" WENT UP LITERALLY BY LEAPS AND BOUNDS
+YESTERDAY MORNING, FAR BEYOND THE EXPECTATIONS EVEN OF THE EDITOR.
+
+
+The morning dawned damp and dreary; rain had fallen steadily all night
+long, and still continues. Neither The Chaperon nor anyone else had an
+opportunity for seeing "the golden exhalations of dawn" this morning.
+To-day's "exhalations" were chiefly those of moisture, and the only gold
+we saw was supplied by the light of the paraffin lamps which The
+Chaperon, always on the look out to anticipate our wishes, provided for
+us to see our way to wash. The water for ablutions was obtained from the
+mud-hole which did duty for a well at the ranch, and its appearance was
+somewhat disconcerting. However, with skill, one could scoop up a little
+of the surface of the water for a splash without disturbing the thick
+stratum of mud at the bottom of the basin; things might have been worse,
+and everyone felt that on such a damp day washing at all was merely an
+aesthetic waste of energy. By the time dressing was accomplished it was
+sufficiently light for the lamps to be dispensed with, and we assembled
+for breakfast in a dull-grey atmosphere. Hot tea, even though half mud,
+was very good. We believe that the leaf of a certain cactus has the
+power of clearing water absolutely; if it is dropped in a vessel of
+water, it and the mud settle at the bottom, leaving the water quite
+clear; but though several varieties of cacti were tried this morning,
+none were successful; apparently the special kind did not grow around
+our camp.
+
+[Illustration: _Water Knee-deep._]
+
+No one seemed much disheartened by the rain; even the peons, though
+already wet through in their scanty garments, were cheerfully smiling as
+usual, with no thought of grumbling. Monte, too, was calmly ready to
+accompany us, despite the bad weather.
+
+Owing either to the skilful manner of tucking in the nets adopted last
+night, or to the neighbourhood of the sheepfold, mosquitoes had not
+troubled us nearly so much as on the previous night; only the continual
+flashes of lightning and the soft rumblings of thunder during the steady
+downpour had been able to disturb our deep slumbers.
+
+As soon as possible the tents were taken down, packing accomplished, and
+a start made. Fortunately the ant-hills were considerably fewer in
+number to-day, but the ground was ankle deep in water everywhere, and
+fallen tree trunks hidden under the, in some places, really deep water,
+formed a considerable danger in our path. However, again owing to the
+skill of our drivers, no accident occurred all through that long drive
+in unceasing rain, which shrouded all but the most immediate view. Of
+course, constant changes of horses were necessary, as, for eight hours
+we drove through water, above and below, to our destination. The
+accomplishment of that drive of his four-in-hand from the absolutely
+unsheltered position on the box was no small feat on the part of The
+Jehu; we all felt an even deeper admiration for his pluck and endurance
+than before, as he steadily pursued his way on that terrible day, when
+his whole body and especially his hands must have been numbed through
+and through with the cold and wet. The Chaperon, too, had an arduous
+day, though his work was not so strenuous as that of The Jehu. At one
+spot, when under trees we made a change of horses, The Chaperon was seen
+to be wading through water, knee deep, as he handed round the only
+refreshments available--ginger-bread, biscuits, beer and gin--to guests
+and peons alike, all drinking gratefully from the same small measure.
+That drive is something to be remembered; it was executed under the most
+trying circumstances with not a single complaint or grumble from anyone,
+but an increased thankfulness on the part of the passengers that they
+were in such good hands during the trip. The land through which we drove
+to-day is covered with trees of various kinds; large forests exist on
+the eastern side of the Calchaqui, bordering the river for its entire
+length; the trees of these forests are chiefly Algarrobo the wood of
+which is not unlike our walnut in appearance, but extremely hard; in
+days to come this timber will be used in great quantities for making
+parquet flooring. It seems almost incredible that the city of Buenos
+Aires should import millions of square metres of ready-made parquet
+flooring when the Argentine produces magnificent timber of far more
+suitable and better wearing quality for the purpose than any used in
+imported parquet. As we have journeyed eastward, trees have become much
+more numerous, and splendid timber is to be seen on every side. Most
+numerous amongst the trees is the Quebracho Colorado, which supplies one
+of the hardest timbers the world produces. The trees have a peculiar
+appearance, for their leaves are quite small and the trunks have a rough
+bark from which often hangs moss-like lichen, of which, by the way,
+cattle are very fond. The photo on the opposite page gives a general
+idea of a tree's appearance.
+
+The wood, which is light in colour when first cut, becomes dark red upon
+being exposed to light and weather, and it is intensely hard.
+
+[Illustration: _Quebracho Colorado Tree._]
+
+The word "quebracho" (pronounced KAYBRATSHO) signifies axe-breaking, and
+even modern tools do not retain their edge long when working on this
+wood.
+
+The wonderful durability of the wood renders it a perfect material for
+railway sleepers, and this has been appreciated by the Government of
+Argentina to such an extent that they have decreed that the laying of
+new railways is to be upon sleepers made of the hard woods of the
+Country.
+
+[Illustration: _Sleepers awaiting Transport at Vera._]
+
+The forests of the Santa Fe Land Company have produced in the last
+twelve years over a million Quebracho Colorado sleepers.
+
+One drawback to the wood is that it has the peculiarity of splitting
+around the heart of the tree. This is caused by the accumulation of
+resin at certain periods, and is probably connected in some way with the
+excessive moisture or dryness of a particular year's growth.
+
+The tree is often attacked by a boring grub, which enters by making a
+very small pin prick opening, and during its existence in the tree grows
+and bores an ever enlarging hole until often it becomes half an inch in
+diameter. It would seem almost incredible that a grub could live either
+on the resins in the tree or be able to bore through what is one of the
+hardest woods in the world.
+
+Of recent years this timber has also been put to another use--that of
+producing tan. When used for this purpose, the tree was cut down, its
+outer sapwood removed, and then taken to the river to be finally shipped
+to the United States of America or to Germany.
+
+It was soon found that the railway and shipping freight charges absorbed
+a considerable amount of the profits to be obtained in making this
+tannin extract abroad, and, therefore, extract factories were erected in
+Argentina. The process of obtaining the extract is very simple; the logs
+are first put through a machine which reduces them to chips, the chips
+are then boiled in water till all soluble matter is extracted from them,
+and the solution obtained is concentrated down to the consistency of
+pitch; in this form, after being dried, it is exported, and is used by
+tanners the world over. The great necessity and essence of success, in
+the present way of working the business, is good water and plenty of it.
+
+We do not know who first noticed the tannin material oozing out of these
+trees, but no doubt attention was called to the fact by pools in the
+neighbourhood of the trees being often red in colour. Undoubtedly the
+Germans first took this business up on a large scale, and to-day they
+hold an enormous quantity of forest lands.
+
+Hitherto the extract has been brought on to the market in a solid state
+very much after the style of Burma cutch. The Santa Fe Land Company have
+recently produced the material in a fine powdered state, absolutely
+pure, and containing a great deal less moisture than any other form of
+extract on the market, and they are about to erect a factory to work
+this process in connection with their saw mills at Vera. This new
+process requires very little water as compared with the old method, and
+can be adopted, in huge areas hitherto unsuitable for the industry.
+
+About mid-day we approached a plaza, or wood deposit, of the La
+Gallareta Factory, situated on the Company's Lands. Rain had been
+falling in torrents for days past, and the tracks (called by courtesy
+"roads") had one and all become deep crevasses of soft mud, loads of
+timber had been left here and there in the wood, just wherever the cart
+conveying it had stuck, and in many places the water was so deep that
+not a vestige of these obstacles could be seen. Our coaches had to be
+driven under (or perhaps we should say "over") such circumstances as
+these for about three miles, and this part of our journey was absolutely
+dangerous; the greatest credit is due to the drivers and those in charge
+of the party that no serious accident occurred, for, about mid-day, the
+way was truly terrible, and one never knew when a tree trunk, small or
+large, lying hidden under the water, would cause a terrific jolt to the
+cart, despite the utmost efforts on the part of our cocheros. However,
+we passed from the extreme danger zone into the comparatively smooth
+waters of the flooded lands. So we drove on, our drivers and guides
+becoming more and more chilled with the rain and cold, but always
+cheerful, till at last wire fencing and other signs of civilisation
+marked our approach to the precincts of Las Gamas. This was indeed a
+welcome sight to the party, for all were beginning to feel the need of
+food and shelter, and though the "passengers" in the coaches were
+comparatively dry, despite the continual downpour, the drivers were wet
+through long ago and the peons had not been dry since dawn.
+
+[Illustration: _Tannin Extract Factory._]
+
+No one was sorry when "The Jehu," to shorten the drive, ordered some of
+the wire fencing to be dropped so that we might proceed in a straight
+line to the house instead of making the considerable detour to the gate.
+It was past three o'clock when, after a side-slip or two, and consequent
+meeting with gate-posts, we drew up in front of the estancia house and
+noticed on the outbuildings a damp flag trying to flap a weary "welcome"
+to the party of Tacuruers. The first thing was to get The Jehu from his
+driving seat and into a warm bath, and the same treatment was meted out
+to The Chaperon, and hot whisky and water for all! Our host and hostess
+gave us such a genial welcome and the big room looked so dry and
+inviting, with a wood fire crackling in the grate, that our troubles,
+which had, during the long hours of to-day's tedious drive, assumed
+really serious proportions, were soon forgotten as we sat down, in an
+incredibly short time, to a hearty meal of roast turkey and mince pies!
+We almost fell to wishing each other a Happy Christmas, and
+instinctively wondered if roast chestnuts would form part of the
+afternoon's programme. Unfortunately, chestnuts of an allegorical kind
+_did_ enter into the proceedings. Meanwhile, the rain continued its
+unceasing downpour. It was some time before the baggage waggons arrived
+on the scene, and, needless to say, they and their contents were very
+damp. But the peons soon had the goods unpacked, and ere long were happy
+and dry in the big galpon round a roaring fire, which they must have
+badly needed. Their behaviour all through this terrible day, sometimes
+under most trying circumstances, had been splendid, and it says a good
+deal for master as well as for man that not once was a sound of
+discontent heard. In fact, the men often suggested themselves little
+things in which they thought they might help the caretakers of the
+party. It was a relief to us all to know that the work of those peons
+had ended for the day with the caring for the horses and unpacking of
+the goods.
+
+Monte still accompanied us, but here he had to be kept under strict
+surveillance, for dogs were numerous on the premises, and several of
+them were not of the kind who brook any encroachment, however harmless,
+on their preserves; so poor Monte was perforce shut up, away from the
+house, where Bear and his companions could not take exception to the
+presence of an interloper. The late afternoon and evening were chiefly
+spent in having warm baths, which were most grateful after the, of
+necessity, somewhat sketchy ablutions of the past three days. Now that
+the safe arrival of the luggage was an accomplished fact, and the
+travellers clothed and fed, there seemed little reason for late hours,
+and it was not long after dinner when the general dispersal took place.
+We only waited to hear a few selections of songs on the beautiful
+gramophone which our host had received a few months ago as a Christmas
+greeting from England. It must be difficult for those at home to
+realise what an immense amount of pleasure a good gramophone can give to
+the dwellers in the far camp lands. This instrument was in constant
+request, and both the machine and records were extraordinarily good.
+Still, even this great attraction did not tempt the party to sit up
+late; everyone was tired and exhausted, and our cocheros, more
+especially the Jehu, must have been worn out with their exertions of the
+day. We can only hope they will suffer no after ill effects from their
+arduous task and severe drenchings.
+
+[Illustration: _Some of the Horses._]
+
+Our horses have been simply wonderful during this trip. We have driven,
+ridden, and brought along nearly 100 animals for 150 miles, and have not
+lost one upon the journey. This speaks volumes for the care and training
+bestowed upon the animals at the head estancia, and we are inclined to
+think that few other places could supply as many animals to do such
+trying work. The fitness of our animals is owing entirely to the
+continual attention and care they receive daily at the estancia.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_We are sorry to be obliged to hold over all correspondence,
+advertisements, etc., to-day, as, doubtless owing to the floods, no
+communications had reached us up to the time of going to press. We hope
+all correspondents will accept our sincere apologies for the unavoidable
+delay in dealing with letters and orders; all despatches shall receive
+our earnest attention as soon as they come to hand._
+
+
+
+
+"THE TACURU."
+
+No. 9
+
+_Sunday, April 3rd, 1910._
+
+
+Dawn showed us no respite of the drenching rain; the paths, the garden,
+and the camps were all flooded with the continuous rain of yesterday and
+last night, and still it poured. After disposing of a more substantial
+breakfast than had fallen to the lot of the travellers for some days,
+there seemed little to do save listen to the dulcet strains of the
+gramophone, which proved a welcome diversion. A considerable disturbance
+was caused by a dog fight under the table round which we were sitting;
+whether intentional or not on the part of the animals, the rout of the
+ladies was complete, and the dogs were only separated by the calm
+procedure of some of the men who held them under the water taps until
+their ardour was cooled. Monte was out of all this trouble, for he had
+been consigned to the security of the galpon to avoid trouble concerning
+rights of way which would assuredly have arisen between himself and Bear
+(the big bulldog of the estancia) had they met. Bear amused the company
+by presenting a truly comical sight, some minutes later, when he decided
+to have a drink after his fight; he walked with majestic mien up to the
+water spout, which jutted out from the house a few feet from the ground,
+and, poking out his heavy under-jaw, collected the flow of water in his
+mouth in a most satisfying way, for a few seconds. Of course, The
+Instigator started off pacing and measuring the room's verandah, etc.,
+in order to devise a scheme for the best improvements for the estancia,
+and before long he and The Delineator had made out a plan which would
+drive any member of the R.I.B.A. to desperation, but caused its authors
+enormous joy. The Jehu and The Chaperon were occupied for some time in
+seeing to the comfort of their men and animals, and trying to dry the
+tents, clothes, etc., by the huge fire in the galpon in which the peons
+were housed for the day. We are told that one Tacuruer tried to employ
+the morning remuneratively by opening a temporary barber's shop on the
+verandah, and advertising "hair-cutting and shaving"; possibly he might
+have built up a successful business in time, but unfortunately for him
+his first customer's beard was too unyielding for the ordinary scissors
+and the customer objected to the way in which the horse clippers were
+used on the hirsute growth of his chin, and talked of his treatment
+afterwards in a way that did not inspire confidence in the other
+might-have-been customers, who were observed to slink away one by one
+from the barber's chair as if it were infected. We regret that a
+well-meant enterprise on the part of one of The Tacuru party met with
+such a poor reception.
+
+A gleam of ceasing rain--it was not sunshine--gave courage to some of
+the more energetic members of the party to go forth to inspect the heaps
+of wood about to be made into charcoal in the neighbourhood of the
+estancia, if any could be reached on dry land. For to-morrow the visit
+to the La Gallareta factory will occupy the day, and the Charcoal piles
+are too interesting a sight to be left unvisited now that we are in the
+wood department of the Santa Fe Land Company.
+
+In the northern districts where trees are numerous it is necessary to
+"distroncar" the land before the soil can be brought into condition
+suitable for the plough. In other words all the trees and roots must be
+removed before ploughing operations commence. But the timber so obtained
+is not wasted; the branches and all pieces not big enough to be used for
+sleepers, etc., are cut up into various suitable lengths and piled
+together in such a manner that when finished the heap presents the
+appearance of a huge beehive; the centre of this dome running from the
+apex to the ground is a hollow cylinder; this tube or pipe is filled up
+with the small sticks and twigs from the trees, and when all is in
+readiness the contents of the cylinder are fired from the top, the fire
+slowly burns downwards and sets light to the surrounding logs which in
+their turn smoulder till they become charcoal. But the match is not
+applied until the whole mass of wood has been covered up and plastered
+over with mud, to prevent the entrance of any air. The kiln thus forms
+an enclosed retort, and the wood is carbonised and makes excellent
+charcoal, which eventually finds its way to Buenos Aires and other
+cities, where immense quantities are used for cooking and heating
+purposes. If all goes well, the kiln being well built, and no air
+admitted, some thirty to forty tons of charcoal are produced from one of
+these heaps; not infrequently, however, the crown breaks in; this allows
+the air to enter, the wood is completely burnt, and the labour expended
+on this "horno" is represented by a few cartloads of useless ash. The
+thought of these possible failures was too much for The Instigator; he
+held forth, at length, upon the advisability of bringing a little
+science to bear upon the problem of preventing any waste of the material
+itself or of the by-products. His theory is that to make the best use of
+nature's lavish gifts in the way of wood products, an iron or brick
+still should be erected, on the inside of which the heavy tarry products
+would naturally accumulate, and so find their way to the base of the
+kiln where they could be collected and run out into casks for
+utilisation, whilst the lighter vapours are condensed in the hood of the
+still to be chemically treated later for their highly valuable
+properties, and the charcoal itself would be a more certain production
+from these brick or iron kilns than it is from the present heaps. At
+this point of his lecture the weather became impossible, and when The
+Instigator discovered that he was expatiating to the camp and rain
+alone, he, too, turned to seek the shelter of the estancia house,
+whither his audience had long ago fled. For some time we watched the
+storm as it worked up with intense fury. The lightning as it illuminated
+the whole camp was a wonderful sight, it seemed to flash (and this was
+before the dinner hour) yellow light from the north, red from the south,
+and a bright white light from the east, and was of long continuance. The
+culminating point seemed to come when an appalling crash was heard and
+something appeared to have been struck by lightning. This drove the
+party indoors, though from the time of the crash (we found later that it
+was the telephone which had suffered), the storm abated and only steady
+rain continued. However, nothing more could be done out of doors, and
+everyone was glad of warmth and shelter, while they hoped for a better
+day to-morrow.
+
+Songs occupied the evening, and most of the party retired early to bed.
+
+The Editor regrets that up to the time of going to press to-day, the
+advertisements, correspondence, etc., due for yesterday's issue had not
+reached the office; he fears they may have been lost, and requests that
+all orders may be repeated.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The following advertisements of to-day's dating have been sent in:--
+
+HAIR CUTTING AND SHAVING while you wait.--Lowest prices. Large supply of
+tools, or customers may bring their own instruments if preferred. Good
+style guaranteed. Customers' comfort not so much considered as thorough
+work. Satisfaction certain.--T.C., THE VERANDAH.
+
+WANTED.--Reliable Barber--for clipping advertiser's beard weekly, at own
+residence. May be required to travel. Gentleness much appreciated;
+advertiser would give valuable information on any subject in return for
+Barber's services.--T.I., LAS GAMAS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+WANTED--By several people; good book on "How not to lose at Bridge."
+Anyone possessing a copy of this valuable work for sale, please quote
+lowest price to The Editor, _Tacuru_ Office.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Monday, April 4th, 1910.
+
+The Editor and Staff of "The Tacuru" announce with great regret the
+unavoidable demise of the journal known and respected by all as "The
+Tacuru." This valuable and instructive periodical has become a necessity
+to every happy home. The Editor hoped long to continue his beneficent
+task of bringing a daily joy into the lives of all English-speaking and
+reading people; but, alas, just as he bore "his blushing honours thick
+upon him," there came a flood, an awful flood, and carried away his
+hopes and printing press (we believe some people were drowned, too).
+Therefore we must, perforce, bid our readers "farewell, a long
+farewell." Though not, we hope, for ever. Printing presses are not
+unique, and some day, in the land of civilisation, we hope to be able to
+make our loss good and bring happiness and information once more to
+countless millions. In case any of our readers would like to erect a
+monument of gratitude to "The Tacuru," in memory of the enjoyment, or
+otherwise, this paper has brought into their lives, we would mention
+that the printing-press and a few lives were lost on the way to Olmos.
+We are able to publish a photo of extreme interest, depicting the
+counting of the loss after the deluge. With this, and our deepest
+regrets, we must pause, trusting that some day our great work may be
+renewed under similarly happy circumstances, by the same staff, to whom,
+and to all contributors, willing or unwilling, a thousand thanks.
+
+[Illustration: _"Awful Flood."_]
+
+[Illustration: _On the Way to Olmos._]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Argentina From A British Point Of View, by Various
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