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diff --git a/14366-0.txt b/14366-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a8c5686 --- /dev/null +++ b/14366-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7350 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14366 *** + +ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW + +AND + +NOTES ON ARGENTINE LIFE. + + + +With Photographs and Diagrams. + + +EDITED BY +CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE. + + +LONDON: +WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO., +CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, E.C +1910. + + +PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER, LEA & CO., CLIFTON HOUSE, WORSHIP STREET, LONDON, +E.C + + +DEDICATED To _all_ THE SHAREHOLDERS OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY, +LIMITED, _who take a real interest in the Company_. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +In May last I was asked to read, towards the end of the year, a paper on +Argentina, before the Royal Society of Arts. The task of compiling that +paper was one of absorbing interest to me; and though I fully realise +how inadequately I have dealt with so interesting a subject, I venture +to think that the facts and figures which the paper contains may be of +interest to some, at any rate, of the Shareholders of the Santa Fé Land +Company. It is upon this supposition that it is published. + +Whilst I was obtaining the latest information for the paper (which was +read before the Royal Society of Arts on November 30th, 1910), several +members of the staff of the Santa Fé Land Company aided me by writing +some useful and interesting notes on subjects connected with Argentina, +and also giving various experiences which they had undergone whilst +resident there. I am indebted to the writers for many hints on life in +Argentina, and as I think that others will find the reading of the notes +as engaging as I did, they are now reproduced just as I received them, +and incorporated with my own paper in a book of which they form by no +means the least interesting part. + +The final portion of the book--Leaves from a journal entitled "The +Tacuru"--is written in a lighter vein. It describes a trip through some +of the Northern lands of the Santa Fé Land Company, and it is included +because, although frankly humorous, it contains much really useful +information and many capital illustrations, I should, however, mention +that this journal was written by members of the expedition, and was +originally intended solely for their own private edification and +amusement; therefore all the happier phases of the trip are noted; but I +can assure my English readers that the trip, well though it was planned, +was not all luxury. + +To the many who have helped me in this work I tender my most sincere +thanks. + +CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE. + + LAWFORD PLACE, + MANNINGTREE, ESSEX, + _December, 1910_. + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + +ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW 1 + +HISTORY OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY, LIMITED 33 + +THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA 45 + +REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE 51 + +SOME EXPERIENCE OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS 57 + +THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE 69 + +CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE 75 + +HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE 79 + +SUNDAYS IN CAMP 87 + +THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA 91 + +POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY 97 + +A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO 107 + +WORK IN THE WOODS 119 + +CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS 125 + +MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN 131 + +DUST AND OTHER STORMS 141 + +LOCUSTS 147 + +CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC 155 + +ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901 161 + +PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES 185 + +JUST MY LUCK! 193 + +"THE TACURU" 199 + + + + +LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS. + + + FACING PAGE + +CATTLE TRAIN ON CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY, +BRINGING CATTLE TO BARRANCOSA 39 + +LOADING WHEAT AT ROSARIO FROM THE "BARRANCA" 40 + +SAN CRISTOBAL ESTANCIA HOUSE 41 + +WATERING-PLACE AT BARRANCOSA 42 + +WOOD ON THE COMPANY'S OWN LINE READY FOR LOADING 43 + +LOADING TIMBER AT WAYSIDE STATION 44 + +WHEAT READY FOR LOADING AT STATION ON CENTRAL +ARGENTINE RAILWAY 48 + +THE MAKER OF LAND VALUES 50 + +TENNIS PARTY AT VERA 73 + +CARNIVAL AT VERA 77 + +"A DAY OF REAL ENJOYMENT" 90 + +SQUARE QUEBRACHO LOGS WORKED BY THE AXEMAN, SHOWING +RESIN OOZING THEREFROM 134 + +LOADING WHEAT AT THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES 187 + +HORSES AWAITING INSPECTION 209 + +STACKING ALFALFA 210 + +ALFALFA ELEVATOR AT WORK 211 + +THE GREEN FIELDS OF ALFALFA 212 + +HERD OF CATTLE 215 + +EXPANSE OF ALFALFA 221 + +DISC-PLOUGH AT WORK 222 + +ROADMAKER AND RAILROAD BUILDER 223 + +PLOUGHING VIRGIN CAMP 226 + +HART-PARR ENGINE, DRAWING ROADMAKER 228 + +CATTLE LEAVING DIP 233 + +CROSSING THE SALADO 240 + +THE EFFECT OF A LONG DROUGHT 241 + +REFINED CAMPS 242 + +"RICH BLACK ALLUVIAL SOIL" 251 + +WATER KNEE-DEEP 265 + +QUEBRACHO COLORADO TREE 266 + +SLEEPERS AWAITING TRANSPORT AT VERA 267 + +TANNIN EXTRACT FACTORY 268 + +SOME OF THE HORSES 271 + +"AWFUL FLOOD" 276 + +ON THE WAY TO OLMOS 277 + + + +LIST OF DIAGRAMS. + + FACING PAGE + +IMMIGRATION RETURNS 2 + +AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION 14 + +CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES 15 + +VALUE IN £ STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF +ARGENTINA, 1900-09 22 + + + + +ARGENTINA FROM A BRITISH POINT OF VIEW. + + +Argentina, which does not profess to be a manufacturing country, +exported in 1909 material grown on her own lands to the value of +£79,000,000, and imported goods to the extent of £60,000,000. This fact +arrests our attention, and forces us to recognise that there is a trade +balance of nearly 20 millions sterling in her favour, and to realise the +saving power of the country. + +It is not mere curiosity which prompts us to ask: "Are these £79,000,000 +worth of exports of any value to us? Do we consume any of them? Do we +manufacture any of them? And do we send any of this same stuff back +again after it has been dealt with by our British artisans?" It would be +difficult to follow definitely any one article, but upon broad lines the +questions are simple and can be easily answered. Amongst the +agricultural exports we find wheat, oats, maize, linseed, and flour. The +value placed upon these in 1908 amounted to £48,000,000, and England +pays for and consumes nearly 42 per cent. of these exports. Other goods, +such as frozen beef, chilled beef, mutton, pork, wool, and articles +which may be justly grouped as the results of the cattle and sheep +industry, amounted to no less a figure than £23,000,000. All these +exports represent foodstuffs or other necessities of life, and are +consumed by those nations which do not produce enough from their own +soil to keep their teeming populations. Another export which is worthy +of particular mention comes from the forests, viz., quebracho, which, in +the form of logs and extract, was exported in 1908 to the value of +£1,200,000. The value of material of all sorts sent from England to +Argentina in 1908 was £16,938,872 (this figure includes such things as +manufactured woollen goods, leather goods, oils, and paints), therefore +it is clear that we have, and must continue to take, a practical and +financial interest in the welfare and prosperity of Argentina. + +New countries cannot get on without men willing and ready to exploit +Nature's gifts, and, naturally, we look to the immigration returns when +considering Argentina's progress. To give each year's return for the +last 50 years would be wearisome, but, taking the average figures for +ten-year periods from 1860 to 1909, we have the following interesting +table. (The figures represent the balance of those left in the country +after allowing for emigration):-- + + Yearly Average. +From 1860 to 1869 (inclusive) ... 15,044 + " 1870 " 1879 " ... 29,462 + " 1880 " 1889 " ... 84,586 + " 1890 " 1899 " ... 43,618 + " 1900 " 1909 " ... 100,998 + +Sixty-five per cent. of the immigrants are agricultural labourers, who +soon find work in the country, and again add their quota to the +increasing quantity and value of materials to be exported. Facing this +page is a diagram of the Immigration Returns from 1857 to 1909. + +Nature has been lavish in her gifts to Argentina, and man has taken +great advantage of these gifts. My desire now is to show what has been +done in the way of developing agriculture in this richly-endowed country +during the last fifty years. One name which should never be forgotten in +Argentina is that of William Wheelwright, whose entrance into active +life in Buenos Aires was not particularly dignified; in 1826 he was +shipwrecked at the mouth of the River Plate, and struggled on +barefooted, hatless and starving to the small town of Quilmes. + +[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF IMMIGRATION RETURNS. + +NOTE:--IN THE YEARS 1888, 1889 & 1890 THE ARGENTINE GOVERNMENT ASSISTED +PASSAGES.] + +Mr. Wheelwright was an earnest and far-seeing man, and his knowledge of +railways in the United States helped him to realise their great +possibilities in Argentina; but, strange to say, upon his return to his +native land he could not impress any of those men who afterwards became +such great "Railway Kings" in the U.S.A. Failing to obtain capital for +Argentine railway development in his own country, Wheelwright came to +England, and interested Thomas Brassey, whose name was then a household +word amongst railway pioneers. These two men associated themselves with +Messrs. Ogilvie & Wythes, forming themselves into the firm of Brassey, +Ogilvie, Wythes & Wheelwright, whose first work was the building of a +railway 17,480 kilometres long between Buenos Aires and Quilmes in 1863; +afterwards they built the line from Rosario to Cordova, which is +embodied to-day in the Central Argentine Railway. Other railways were +projected, and this policy of progress and extension of the steel road +still holds good in Argentina. + +The year 1857 saw the first railway built, from Buenos Ayres to Flores, +5,879 kilometres long; in 1870 there were 457 miles of railroad; in 1880 +the railways had increased their mileage to 1,572; in 1890 Argentina +possessed 5,895 miles of railway, and in 1900 there were 10,352 miles. + +The rapid increase in railway mileage during the last nine years is as +follows:-- + +In 1901 there were 10,565 miles of railway. + " 1902 " " 10,868 " " " + " 1903 " " 11,500 " " " + " 1904 " " 12,140 " " " + " 1905 " " 12,370 " " " + " 1906 " " 12,850 " " " + " 1907 " " 13,829 " " " + " 1908 " " 14,825 " " " + " 1909 " " 15,937[A]" " " + +12,000 of which are owned by English companies, representing a capital +investment of £170,000,000. + +In other words, for the last forty years Argentina has built railways +at the rate of over a mile a day, and in 1907, 1908, and 1909 her +average rate per day was nearly three miles. This means that owing to +the extension of railways during this last year alone, over a million +more acres of land could have been given up to the plough if suitable +for the cultivation of corn. + +When William Wheelwright first visited Argentina it was little more than +an unknown land, whose inhabitants had no ambition, and no desire to +acquire wealth--except at the expense of broken heads. There was a +standard of wealth, but it lay in the number of cattle owned; land was +of little value, save for feeding cattle, and therefore counted for +naught, but cattle could be boiled down for tallow; bones and hides were +also marketable commodities; the man, therefore, who possessed cattle +possessed wealth. + +The opening out of the country by railways soon changed the aspect of +affairs. The man who possessed cattle was no longer considered the rich +man; it was he who owned leagues of land upon which wheat could be grown +who became the potentially rich man; he, by cutting up his land and +renting it to the immigrants, who were beginning to flock in in an +endless stream to the country, found that riches were being accumulated +for him without much exertion on his part. He took a risk inasmuch as he +received payment in kind only. Therefore, when the immigrants did well, +so did he, and as many thousands of immigrants have become rich, it +follows that the land proprietors have become immensely so. It was the +railways which created this possibility, and endowed the country by +rendering it practicable to grow corn where cattle only existed before, +but many Argentines to-day forget what they owe to the railway pioneers; +it is the railways, and the railways only, which render the splendid and +yearly increasing exports possible. + +In 1858 cattle formed 25 per cent. of the total wealth of Argentina, but +in 1885 cattle only represented 18 per cent. of the total wealth, +railways having made it possible during those thirty years to utilise +lands for other purposes than cattle-feeding. Let it be clearly +understood, the total value of cattle had not decreased; far from that, +the cattle had increased in value during the above period to the extent +of £48,000,000, and to-day cattle, sheep, horses, mules, pigs, goats and +asses represent a value of nearly £130,000,000. The following table +shows how great the improvement has been in Argentine animals:-- + + Per Head. +Cattle in 1885 were valued at an average of $13[B] + " 1908 " " " 32 +Sheep in 1885 " " " 2 + " 1908 " " " 4 +Horses in 1885 " " " 11 + 1908 " " " 25 + +Notwithstanding these increased valuations per head, and the larger +number of animals in the country, the value created by man's labour far +outweighs the increased value of mere breeding animals. + +Next to the railways the improvements in shipping have helped the +development of Argentina; the shipping trade of Buenos Aires has +increased at the rate of one million tons per annum for the past few +years, and the entries into the port form an interesting and instructive +table: + +The following statement gives the total tonnage that passed through the +port of Buenos Aires from 1880 to 1909, and will more clearly show the +increase and advance made in the last thirty years. These figures +include both steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well as foreign +trade:-- + + Tons. +1880 ... 644,750 +1881 ... 827,072 +1882 ... 995,597 +1883 ... 1,207,321 +1884 ... 1,782,382 +1885 ... 2,200,779 +1886 ... 2,408,323 +1887 ... 3,369,057 +1888 ... 3,396,212 +1889 ... 3,804,037 +1890 ... 4,507,096 +1891 ... 4,546,729 +1892 ... 5,475,942 +1893 ... 6,177,818 +1894 ... 6,686,123 +1895 ... 6,894,834 +1896 ... 6,115,547 +1897 ... 7,365,547 +1898 ... 8,051,045 +1899 ... 8,741,934 +1900 ... 8,047,010 +1901 ... 8,661,300 +1902 ... 8,902,605 +1903 ... 10,269,298 +1904 ... 10,424,615 +1905 ... 11,467,954 +1906 ... 12,448,219 +1907 ... 13,335,733 +1908 ... 15,465,417 +1909 ... 16,993,973 + +In 1897, out of the total number of steamers that entered Buenos Aires, +viz., 901, with a tonnage of 2,342,391; 519, with a tonnage of +1,327,571, were British. Taking the year 1909 we find that 2,008 +steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the port of Buenos Aires from +foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542, and 1,978 steamers and 129 +sailing-vessels left the port for foreign shores with a tonnage of +5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead with 2,242 steamers and 37 +sailing-vessels, or say 53-1/2 per cent. of the total. Germany comes +next with 456 steamers and 2 sailing-vessels, or say 10-3/4 per cent, of +the total. Italy with 307 steamers and 67 sailing-vessels is next, and +then France with 264 steamers. The total number of steamers that entered +and left the port from local and foreign ports is 13,485, with a tonnage +of 14,481,526, and 20,264 sailing-vessels with 2,512,447 tons, which +make up the amount of 16,993,973 tons, as shown above. + +In the year 1884 the experiment of freezing beef, killed in Buenos +Aires, and shipping it to Europe was first tried. That was successful, +but an immense improvement was made when the process of chilling became +the common means by which meat could be exported. The frozen beef trade +in Argentina has had a wonderful development; it commenced in 1884, and +the export of chilled meat has progressed steadily at the rate of 25,000 +beeves yearly, until, in 1908, it reached the enormous quantity of +573,946 beeves, or 180,000 tons. Frozen mutton has remained +comparatively steady, and has only increased by 38,000 tons in +twenty-two years, or from 2,000,000 sheep frozen in 1886 to 3,297,667 in +1908, whilst "jerked beef," which was mostly sent to Cuba and Brazil, +has fallen from 50,000 tons per annum to 6,651 tons. The value of frozen +and preserved meats exported in 1908 was £5,233,948. + +The value of live-stock in Argentina in 1908 was made up as follows:-- + +Cattle ... ... ... £82,000,000 +Sheep ... ... ... 25,000,000 +Horses ... ... ... 18,000,000 +Mules ... ... ... 2,000,000 +Pigs ... ... ... 1,368,000 +Goats and Asses ... 1,000,000 + +A few years ago it was common on an estancia feeding 50,000 or 60,000 +cattle to find the household using canned Swiss milk. To-day 425,000 +litres of milk are brought into the city of Buenos Aires each day for +consumption, and no less than two tons of butter, one ton of cream, and +three tons of cheese are used there daily. Argentina also exports +butter. This trade has sprung up entirely within the last fourteen +years, and in 1908 she exported 3,549 tons of butter, the value of which +was £283,973. + +Until 1876 Argentina imported wheat for home consumption; in that year, +when for many years past agricultural labourers had been arriving at an +average of 25,000 per annum, she began to export wheat with a modest +shipment of 5,000 tons. Thirty years later the export had mounted up to +2,247,988 tons, and in 1908 the wheat exported amounted to 3,636,293 +tons, and was valued at £25,768,520. Agricultural colonies had sprung up +everywhere, and cattle became of second-rate importance; to-day the +value of the exports of corn, which term includes wheat, barley, maize, +oats, etc., is more than double that of cattle and cattle products. It +is interesting to follow the evolution wrought by labour, intelligence, +and capital in the prairie lands of Argentina. First, let us note the +developments on those wonderful tracts of splendid prairie lands lying +between the River Plate and the Andes: fifty years ago these lands were +of little account, and only a few cattle were to be found roaming about +them, but upon the advance of the railway they came under the plough, +and, without much attention or care, produced wheat and maize. After a +time improvements in the method of cultivation produced a better return, +and to-day a great deal of attention is paid to the preparing of the +land, and thought and care are given to the seed time, the growing, and +the harvest. When it is found desirable to rest the land after crops of +wheat and maize, etc., alfalfa is grown thereon. Alfalfa is one of the +clover tribe, and has the peculiar property of attaching to itself those +micro-organisms which are able to fix the nitrogen in the air and render +it available for plant food. Every colonist knows the value of alfalfa +for feeding his animals, but it is not every colonist who knows why this +plant occupies such a high place amongst feeding stuffs. Alfalfa is +easily grown, very strong when established, and, provided its roots can +get to water, will go on growing for years. The _raison d'être_ for +growing alfalfa is for the feeding of cattle and preparing them for +market, and for this purpose a league of alfalfa (6,177 acres metric +measurement) will carry on an average 3,500 head. When grown for dry +fodder it produces three or four crops per annum and a fair yield is +from 6 to 8 tons per acre of dry alfalfa for each year. A ton of such +hay is worth about $20 to $30, and after deducting expenses there is a +clear return of about $14 per acre. + +The figures supplied by one large company are interesting; they show +that, on an average, cattle, when placed upon alfalfa lands, improve in +value at the rate of $2.00 per head per month, so it is easy to place a +value on its feeding properties. Thus, we will take a camp under alfalfa +capable of carrying 10,000 head of cattle all the year round, where as +the fattened animals are sold off an equal number is bought to replace +them. Such a camp would bring in a clear profit of $200,000 per annum, +and the property should be worth £175,000 sterling. An animal that has +been kept all its life on rough camp, and, when too old for breeding, is +placed for the first time on alfalfa lands, fattens extremely quickly, +and the meat is tender and in quality compares favourably with any other +beef. No business in Argentina of the same importance has shown such +good returns as cattle breeding, and these results have been chiefly +brought about by the introduction of alfalfa, and a knowledge of the +life history of alfalfa is of the greatest importance to the cattle +farmer. All cereal crops take from the soil mineral matter and nitrogen. +Therefore, after continuous cropping the land becomes exhausted and +generally poorer; experience has taught us that rotation of crops is a +necessity to alleviate the strain on the soil, and such an axiom has +this become that in many cases English landlords insist that their +leases shall contain a clause binding the tenants to grow certain stated +crops in rotation. + +This system is known in England as the four-course shift. Knowledge +gained by successive generations of observant farmers has given us the +key to what Nature had hitherto kept to herself, and to-day we know why +the plan adopted by our forefathers was right, and why the rotation of +crops was, and is, a necessity. Men of science are devoting their lives +to the systematic study of Nature's hidden secrets, and by means of +Agricultural Colleges, as well as private individual research, these +discoveries are being given to mankind, and long before the soils of +Argentina show any serious loss of nitrogen from continuous cropping, +science will probably have established means of applying in a practical +manner those methods already known of propagating the +nitrogen-collecting bacteria which thrive on alfalfa, clover, peas, soya +beans, and other leguminous plants. Almost every country is now devoting +time, money, and energy to agricultural research work. In 1908 the +Agricultural College at Ontario prepared no less than 474 packages of +Legume Bacteria, and in 309 cases beneficial results followed from the +application thereof to the soil; in 165 cases no improvements in the +crops were noticed, this may, however, have been due to the want of +knowledge of how to manipulate the bacteria, or to lack of experience in +noting effects scientifically, but in any case the experiment must be +considered successful when the results obtained were satisfactory in no +less than 65 per cent. of the trials. No greater factor exists than the +microscope in opening up and hunting out the secrets concealed in the +very soil we are standing on. + +If soils were composed of nothing but pure silica sand, nothing would +ever grow; but in Nature we find that soils contain all sorts of mineral +matter, and chief amongst these is lime. + +Alfalfa thrives on land which contains lime, and gives but poor results +where this ingredient is deficient. The explanation is simple. There is +a community of interest between the very low microscopic animal life, +known as bacteria, and plant life generally. In every ounce of soil +there are millions of these living germs which have their allotted work +to do, and they thrive best in soils containing lime. + +If one digs up with great care a root of alfalfa (it need not be an old +plant, the youngest plant will show the same peculiarity), and care is +taken in exposing the root (perhaps the best method is the washing away +of the surrounding earth by water), some small nodules attached to the +fine, hair-like roots are easily distinguished by the naked eye, and +these nodules are the home of a teeming, microscopical, industrious +population, who perform their allotted work with the silent, persistent +energy so often displayed in Nature. Men of science have been able to +identify at least three classes of these bacteria, and to ascertain the +work accomplished by each. The reason for their existence would seem to +be that one class is able to convert the nitrogen in the air into +ammonia, whilst others work it into nitrite, and the third class so +manipulate it as to form a nitrate which is capable of being used for +plant food. + +Now, although one ton of alfalfa removes from the soil 50 lb. of +nitrogen, yet that crop leaves the soil richer in nitrogen, because the +alfalfa has encouraged the multiplication of those factories which +convert some of the thousands of tons of nitrogen floating above the +earth into substance suitable for food for plant life. As a dry fodder +for cattle three tons of alfalfa contains as much nutrition as two tons +of wheat. + +The cost of growing alfalfa greatly depends upon the situation of the +land to be dealt with; also upon whether labour is plentiful or not; +but, in order to give some idea of the advantage of growing this cattle +food, we will imagine the intrinsic value of the undeveloped land to be +£4,000, upon which, under existing conditions, it would be possible to +keep 1,000 head of animals, whereas if this same land were under alfalfa +3,000 to 3,500 animals would be fattened thereon, and the land would +have increased in value to £20,000 or £30,000. + +Now, if the undeveloped land is to be improved, it becomes necessary +either to work it yourself, with your own men, in which case you must +provide ploughs, horses, bullocks, etc., or to carry out the plan +usually adopted, that of letting the land to colonists who have had some +experience in this class of work. Usually a colonist will undertake to +cultivate from 500 to 600 acres, and agrees to pay to the landowner +anything from 10 per cent. to 30 per cent. of his crops according to the +distance of the land from the railway. The colonist brings his +agricultural tackle along with him, and establishes his house (usually a +most primitive affair), digs his well, and then proceeds to plough. In +this work the whole family joins; the father leads the way, followed by +the eldest child, and all the others in rotation, with the wife bringing +up the rear; she keeps a maternal eye upon the little mite, who with +great gusto and terrific yells manages somehow to cling to the plough +and to do his or her share with the rest. Is it to be wondered at that +work progresses fast under these conditions? There is but one idea +prevalent in the family, namely, that time and opportunity are with +them. + +The first crop grown on newly-broken ground is usually maize; the second +year's crop is linseed, and perhaps a third year's crop--probably +wheat--is grown by the colonist before the land is handed back to the +owner ready to be put down in alfalfa. The colonist's cultivation of the +land will have effectually killed off the natural rough grasses which +would otherwise grow up and choke the alfalfa. Sometimes the alfalfa is +sown with the colonist's last crop, and in such cases the landowner +finds the alfalfa seed, and during the sowing of this crop it is very +advisable that either he or his agent should be in constant attendance, +because the after results greatly depend upon the care with which the +seeding has been done. When the colonist's contract is completed he +moves on to another part, and the owner, who has year by year received a +percentage of the crops, takes back his land. Considerable outlay has +now to be made in fences, wells, and buildings; the more there are of +these the better, the land will carry a larger head of cattle and the +control of them is easy when the camp has been properly divided. + +The colonists are generally Italians. They are an industrious and kindly +people, hardy and quiet, well content with their surroundings, careful +and frugal in their living, and many thousands could go back to their +own country with wealth which has been acquired by constant and +assiduous attention to the economies of life. + +It has often been said that an Englishman will starve where an Italian +will thrive, and in some respects this is true; but it would be better +expressed if it were stated that an Italian can adapt himself to +circumstances better than an Englishman. At the same time, I doubt if an +Italian would come off best were the two placed on a desert island where +instantaneous action, grit, and endurance were called for. + +Many things are said of an Englishman, and none fits his character +better than that which gives him the privilege of "grumbling," and this +characteristic becomes more marked when he is able to grumble with one +of his own kith and kin. I have heard Argentines praise Englishmen, who, +they say, manage their estancias far and away beyond all others, but at +the same time they have told me that they would never allow two +Englishmen on their place at once. + +It has been said that many of the immigrants do not intend to settle in +the country. Probably this idea has gained ground on account of the +large numbers of the labouring population, who are attracted to +Argentina by the high wages ruling during the harvest time, and then +find it pays them to go home and secure the European harvest, but +generally these men come out again to stay. They have acquired a +knowledge of the country, and often enough have also acquired an +interest in some land, and they return, bringing their families, to +adopt Argentina as their home--for a period at least. + +A glance at the statistics prepared by the authorities in Buenos Aires +shows that during the last fifty-two years 4,250,980 persons entered as +immigrants, and out of this number only 1,690,783 returned, leaving in +the country 2,560,197 individuals, or an average of 50,000 workers per +annum. These figures have become even more marked of recent years. +Taking the last five years, the country has received on an average +249,000 immigrants per annum; of these, 103,000 went back. In other +words, 727,670 have made their homes within the borders of Argentina +during the past five years, and of these at least 500,000 were +agriculturists. + +It is not to be wondered at, then, that the exports, chiefly made up of +agricultural produce, have shown extraordinary progress. Facing this +page is a diagram showing the agricultural exportation from 1900 to +1908. + +[Illustration: AGRICULTURAL EXPORTATION INCLUDING WHEAT, LINSEED, OATS, +MAIZE, ETC.] + +[Illustration: CULTIVATED AREA IN HECTARES. (1 HECTARE = 2.471 ACRES)] + +Nothing can be more eloquent than the figures shown in this diagram. +This remarkable progress, almost steady in its upward march, is not in +one direction only. Argentina is an ideal country for agriculturists, +and in every branch of that industry progress has been made. Greater +care is being taken to-day in working up the by-products of the cattle +business. More varied crops are being grown, and vegetable by-products +are being economically looked after. The forests of Argentina are also +being worked for the benefit of mankind. The Quebracho Colorado tree +forms a very important item of export. It is sent out of the country +either in the form of logs, of which no less than 254,571 tons were +exported in 1908, or in the form of an extract for tanning purposes; +48,162 tons of this extract were made and exported in 1908, and a small +quantity of the wood was exported in the shape of sawdust. The total +value of Quebracho Colorado exported in various forms in that year was, +as already stated, £1,200,000. This means that the Quebracho forests are +being depleted at the rate of half a million tons per annum for export +purposes alone, in addition to the enormous quantities used for +sleepers, etc., in the country. + +The area in acres under cultivation for the year 1908 was 46,174,250, an +increase of 265 per cent, on the land under cultivation in the year +1895. + +The diagram facing this page shows the area in hectares cultivated from +1897 to 1908:-- + +WHEAT--The area under cultivation for wheat shows an increase of 89 per +cent, in ten years from-- + +8,000,000 acres in cultivation in 1898, to +15,157,750 " " " " 1908 + +LINSEED--shows an increase of 361 per cent, from-- + +831,972 acres in cultivation in 1898, to +3,835,750 " " " " 1908 + +MAIZE--increased by 250 per cent., and other crops, including Oats, 300 +per cent. in the same period. + +The United Kingdom purchased from Argentina and retained for its own use +(in round figures) during the year 1908-- + +WHEAT to the value of £13,000,000 +MAIZE " " 5,600,000 +FROZEN MEAT " " 9,300,000 + ----------- + Making a total of £27,900,000 + ----------- + +Indeed, we buy from Argentina nearly 25 per cent. of our total food +purchased abroad, and she supplies nearly 29 per cent. of our corn and +grain requirements. These figures again clearly demonstrate that we have +a vital interest in the well-being of our friends across the sea. + +In every direction Argentina has progressed, and judging from the past +we may look with confidence to the future; the total area of the +Republic is 776,064,000 acres, and certainly it is within the bounds of +reasonable forecast to consider that 100,000,000 acres of this land will +be, when opened up by railways, and other facilities, available for +corn-growing. To-day only one-fifth of this available area is being +cultivated, and another 43,000,000 acres are being utilised for feeding +purposes; thus, only 63,000,000 out of 776,000,000 acres are being +occupied. The chief reason why more is not utilised is because there is +not sufficient labour available. + + Argentina has 5 inhabitants per square mile. + Russia " 18 " " + Canada, Newfoundland, etc. " 1-1/2 " " + Australia " 1-1/3 " " + U. Kingdom " 364 " " + Belgium " 625 " " + Germany " 290 " " + +Not only is there an enormous tract of land lying dormant, but the +productive power of land now under cultivation may be vastly increased +if farmers will devote their attention to improving the conditions of +cultivation. 11.3 bushels of wheat per acre is not high-class farming, +yet this is the average production for Argentina. Manitoba in 1908 +produced 13-1/2 bushels per acre, Saskatchewan, 17 bushels. In the +fourteenth century England only produced 10 bushels per acre, but we +have improved this yield to 30 bushels, while Roumania has increased her +yield from 15 bushels per acre in 1890, to 23 bushels in 1908. France +has increased her yield from 17 bushels in 1884, to 20 bushels in 1908. +Germany has increased her yield per acre from 20 bushels in 1899, to 30 +bushels in 1908. So that we may not only look forward to a greater area +being placed under cultivation, but we may reasonably expect heavier +crops, if land proprietors will bring science to bear on their work of +development. Indeed, with land rising in price, with an increasing +influx of immigrants, and with more intelligent cultivation of the soil, +the land must of necessity give a far larger yield than it has done +heretofore. + +The following tables, taken from the Board of Trade returns, show from +whence England draws some of her supplies. They also show how +prominently Argentina figures as a food producer. The first table +includes corn and meat; the second gives corn alone, and the third meat +alone:-- + +FOOD IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908. + +CORN (including wheat, barley, oats, rye, + buckwheat, peas, beans, maize, wheatmeal, + flour, oatmeal, and offals) £71,103,487 + +MEAT, fresh and frozen (including animals +for food) 48,704,613 + + Total £119,808,100 + +Of this-- + + £ Per Cent. + Argentina supplied 29,569,773 or 24.68 + U.S.A. supplied 38,229,135 or 31.90 + Russia supplied 7,394,607 or 6.18 + Canada supplied 11,907,203 or 9.94 + Australia (including + Tasmania) supplied 4,520,244 or 3.77 + Other Colonies and Foreign + Countries supplied 28,187,138 or 23.53 + + £119,808,100 or 100.00 + + * * * * * + +CORN IMPORTED INTO AND RETAINED BY THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1908. + + Argentina. U.S.A. Russia. Canada. Australia + (including + Tasmania). + + + £ £ £ £ £ +Wheat ... ... | 13,096,812 10,779,221 2,286,180 6,335,329 2,402,988 + | +Barley ... ... | 22,943 733,446 2,622,005 205,697 -- + | +Oats ... ... | 1,463,368 -- 1,144,387 6,441 -- + | +Rye ... ... | -- 129,691 93,066 49,009 -- + | +Buckwheat ... ... | -- -- 6,677 -- -- + | +Peas ... ... | -- 38,545 42,279 105,495 2,345 + | +Beans (not fresh, | +other than Haricot| +Beans) ... ... | -- -- 15,094 -- -- + | +Maize ... ... | 5,603,463 2,023,576 1,107,858 44,822 -- + | +Wheatmeal | +and Flour ... | 50,597 5,407,119 80 809,479 119,440 + | +Oatmeal and | + Rolled Oats ... | -- 183,334 -- 207,516 -- + | +Farinaceous sub- | + stances (except | + Starch, Farina, | + Dextrine, and | + Potato Flour) | -- 99,112 -- 59,302 -- + | +Bran and Pollard | 11,932 -- -- -- -- + | +Sharps and | + Middlings | 35,113 -- -- -- -- + | +Maize Meal | -- 129,543 -- -- -- + ----+-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+----------- + £ 20,284,228 | 19,523,587 | 7,317,626 | 7,823,090 | 2,524,773 + ----------------+------------+-----------+-----------+----------- +Percentage 28.53% | 27.46% | 10.29% | 11.00% | 3.56% + ----------------+------------+-----------+-----------+----------- + + + * * * * * + + Other + Colonies and + Foreign Total. + Countries. + + £ £ + 13,630,183[C] 71,103,487 + +---------------+-------------+ + 13,630,183 | 71,103,487 | +---------------+-------------+ + 19.16% | = 100% | +---------------+-------------+ + + * * * * * + +MEAT, including animals for food, and fresh, chilled, frozen and tinned, +imported into and retained by the United Kingdom in 1908: + + £ Per Cent. + +Argentina supplied 9,285,545 or 19.07 +U.S.A. " 18,705,548 " 38.41 +Russia " 76,981 " 0.16 +Canada " 4,084,113 " 8.38 +Australia (including Tasmania) + supplied 1,995,471 " 4.10 +Other Colonies and Foreign +Countries supplied[D] 14,556,955 " 29.88 + + 48,704,613 " 100.00 + + + +The lesson shown here is one worthy of attention. We see that Argentina +supplies England with one-fourth of her imported food, and U.S.A. +supplies nearly one-third. Therefore it behoves both England and +Argentina to see that America does not so manipulate things that she +acquires the control over our meat and food supplies. + +Argentine authorities should not only exercise the law sanctioned +February 4th, 1907, concerning the inspection of factories, but they +should enforce greater care in seeing that all Argentine saladeros and +packing-houses are manipulated with intense care, and cleanliness should +be insisted upon; it would be a bad day for Argentina should ever such +an outcry be raised against her saladeros as that which a few years ago +was directed against the North American packing houses and for a time +ruined the canning industry of the United States, and yet we find +American methods being introduced into Argentina without let or +hindrance. If our soldiers and sailors are to be fed upon canned meats, +let those who are responsible for purchasing the food, at least see that +the food is prepared under healthy and sanitary conditions. + +The corn-growing industry of the Argentine Republic is an intensely +interesting subject. Before railways and steamships brought the foreign +producer into close competition with our own farmers, Argentina did not +produce enough grain to supply her home consumption, and cattle were +bred only for their hides, tallow and bones. In the course of time, when +steamers superseded sailing-ships and the world's carrying capacity +thus became enormously increased, Argentina saw her opportunity of +becoming a keen competitor in the food market. Corn-growing became a +highly remunerative business, although much still remains to be learned +concerning the handling of wheat. Both in the States and Canada grain is +handled in a cheaper and more expeditious manner than in Argentina. An +enormous amount of grain is dealt with in the Wheat Exchange of +Winnipeg, but a further big impetus will be given to this industry when +the wheat-fields of Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba are connected +with a deep-sea port on Hudson Bay; this will be an accomplished fact in +1915, and as this route means a thousand miles less haulage by land, and +eight hundred less by sea to the chief European ports than by any +existing route, it is bound to become the popular one; the chief factor, +however, in making it a useful wheat outlet is the established fact that +Hudson Bay, although many miles north of Lake Superior, remains free +from ice for a period of one month after Lake Superior is tightly frozen +up. + +Argentina may look forward to keen competition with Canada and Siberia +for many years to come; on the other hand, the U.S.A. will steadily show +a smaller quantity of wheat available for exportation, and the following +table throws some light upon the wheat position:-- + +Argentina and Uruguay have increased + the area of their wheat-growing + land brought under the plough in + the last ten years by 124 per cent. +Canada in the last ten years by 120 per cent. +Russia in the last ten years by 27 per cent. +United States in the last ten years by 14 per cent. + +No country in the world has shown such wonderful capabilities for +growing linseed as the Argentine, and her average production for the +following five-year periods show this expansion:-- + +Years. Production in Tons. +1894-1898 193,000 +1899-1903 382,000 +1904-1908 839,000 + +In ten years she increased her production by 335 per cent. In the same +period India increased her production by 3.8 per cent., and North +America by 105 per cent., whilst Russia was unable to keep up her +supply. + +The world's total linseed production for 1908 was made up as follows:-- + +Argentina produced 1,101,000 tons. +North America produced 694,000 tons. +Russia produced 470,000 tons. +India produced 360,000 tons. + +Here again we find Argentina leading. Moreover, she exported nearly the +whole of her production, whilst North America, Russia, and India +exported less than half a million tons between them. + +It is more than probable that by 1920 Argentina will be able to export, +as the result of agricultural work, more than £100,000,000 worth of +produce per annum. It is interesting to note that, as the present +figures reveal, allowing for a population of 6,500,000 and an +agricultural produce export of £48,335,432, each individual in Argentina +has sent abroad, after producing enough from the land to keep himself, +goods to the value of nearly £8. + +The diagram facing this page shows what has been accomplished by +Argentina in the last ten years. + +[Illustration: DIAGRAM OF VALUE IN £ STERLING OF THE TOTAL EXPORTS OF +ARGENTINA 1900-1909.] + +In actual money value the exportation of wheat, linseed, oats, maize, +other grain, flour, bran, and middlings is, in round figures, as +follows:-- + +1900 £15,485,000 +1901 14,319,000 +1902 13,634,000 +1903 21,050,000 +1904 30,065,000 +1905 34,047,000 +1906 31,530,000 +1907 32,818,000 +1908 48,335,000 +1909 46,100,000 + +CATTLE. + +The value derived from the cattle industry and its allied produce is of +great importance to the Argentine Republic. The exports from this +industry may be divided into four heads, namely:-- + +LIVE ANIMALS; + +RAW PRODUCTS; + +MANUFACTURED OR PARTLY MANUFACTURED MATERIAL AND BY-PRODUCTS. + +Since the closing of English ports in 1901 to the importation of live +cattle from Argentina, the trade in the export of live stock has fallen +off considerably; the total value did not in 1908 amount to more than +£568,966; Belgium took 65,224 sheep, Chili took 45,114 cattle and 14,394 +sheep, Bolivia took 3,383 head of cattle and 10,676 sheep, and 16,000 +asses and mules, while horses were imported into England, Africa, +Portugal, Brazil, Uruguay, Chili, Bolivia, and Paraguay. + +Exports of raw products, which include frozen and chilled beef and +mutton, hides, sheepskins, wool, and such things as horsehair, tallow, +jerked beef, etc., represented a value of £19,549,231 in 1908. + +Manufactured or partly manufactured material, including prepared tallow, +meat extracts, meat, butter, cheese, lard, dressed leather, etc., +represented £2,454,760, whilst the by-products, including bones, dried +blood, guano, waste fats, etc., were valued at £430,734. Thus, +Argentina's total export from the cattle industry (after supplying her +own needs) was over £23,000,000. + +Argentina's live stock on hand when the last census was taken in May, +1908, was as follows:-- + +Cattle ... ... ... 29,116,625 +Sheep ... ... ... 67,211,758 +Horses ... ... ... 7,531,376 +Mules, swine, +goats, and asses 6,098,802 + +representing in value £129,369,628. + +The favourite breed of cattle is the Shorthorn, and they comprise 84 per +cent, of the classified breeding cows; the Herefords only figure out as +6 per cent., but, undoubtedly, a more careful and complete +classification will lead to modifications in these figures, for at the +present time no less than five and a-half million cows are returned as +Criollo cattle, in other words, unimproved stock. + +Not until the year 1885, when it became possible to send frozen meat to +Europe, did estancieros pay serious attention to growing cattle for meat +production, and now, with an ever-increasing quantity of land being +placed under alfalfa, the Argentine Republic is fast becoming the +leading factor in the production of meat to satisfy the world's +consumption. + +Cattle on the outside fringe of occupied lands are still very coarse and +rough, with a distinct strain of the Hereford about them; they are, +however, a useful herd and most suitable for the districts they occupy, +where they often have to undergo the hardships of shortage of pasture +owing to drought, and little or no water, indeed, it is a marvel how +these animals exist at times; and assuredly no refined breed of cattle +could live where the Criollos not only manage to thrive, but generally +to return a satisfactory result to their owners. The cattle on ranches +which are nearer to the seaports, manufacturing centres, or railway +stations show distinct improvements. Greater care is bestowed upon them, +and the main consideration is never lost sight of--it is the ambition of +every estanciero to have his cattle graded up so that they are looked +upon as "freezers," which means that they are good enough to be +purchased by one or other of the refrigerating companies, who take +nothing but the best. + +In 1888 cattle running the northern camps (which then represented the +extreme outlying posts) were only valued at $6 per head. + +In 1890 the value had risen to $10 per head. + " 1900 " " " 15 " + " 1908 " " " 28 " + " 1910 " " " 40 " + +The question of stock raising and the object to be obtained must rest +with the owners: they must decide whether the land is to be utilised for +fattening cattle or for breeding the high-class animals for which there +is an ever-ready market. To show the enormous value of animals and the +high standard to which agricultural lands can be brought, mention must +be made of two estancias near Buenos Aires, viz., those belonging to +Messrs. Cobo and Messrs. Bell, where splendid stock is always to be +found. To give some idea of the high price paid for first-class pedigree +animals, it may be mentioned that £3,800 was paid for a prize Durham +bull which was sold to Argentina! + +At the cattle show at Buenos Aires held in July, 1910, Herefords for +killing realized from £850 to £1,000 per animal! These latter high +prices were, however, evidently paid by the agents of Cold Storage +Companies for advertising purposes. One representative explained that +the freezing Companies desired to encourage breeders, and that his +Company paid the high prices mentioned above so as to let the breeders +know that they would always be paid high prices for first-class cattle. + +When we consider the really important position which Argentina takes as +a food producer, it appears incredible that the English nation (business +men and the general public alike) is so extremely ignorant, as a rule, +of prevailing conditions. I do not refer to those who have invested +their money in the many channels known to the River Plate circle. But +men holding high official positions speak of our commercial interests in +Argentina as "something between a hundred and a hundred and fifty +millions," and then in a whispered side-speech indicate the dangers of +revolution. + +Often it is suggested that the chances of death from small-pox, yellow +fever, and even from murder are a serious drawback to what might +otherwise be a country possible to live in. It makes one very indignant +to hear these statements from the lips of those who probably have never +left their own country. Let me assure you they may be swept aside, and +were it not for their frequent reiteration it would be unnecessary to +say that there is not one grain of truth in these suggestions as applied +to the state of things to-day. + +Nearly one-fifth of the population of Argentina is centred in and around +Buenos Aires. It is a city of 1,200,000 inhabitants, many of whom are +millionaires; but at the same time there exists much poverty within its +precincts--poverty caused in no small degree by the viciousness of the +rich, but to a far greater extent by the rooted objection of certain +classes to go out to the camps where, during the harvest time at least, +wages are high and labour is anxiously awaited. + +When we compare the health of this city of Buenos Aires with that of +other large cities, we can see what has been done in the way of +improvements in the last few years. A glance at the following tables +will give some idea of what has been accomplished. The natural increase +of the population of Buenos Aires between 1898 and 1907 was 19.1 per +1,000, and no other city equals this. + +The increase in London was 8.8 per 1,000. + " Berlin " 8.5 " + " New York " 5.7 " + " St. Petersburg " 4.6 " + + +The birth-rate of Buenos Aires for 1908 was 34.3 per 1,000. + " " London " 25.7 + " " Berlin " 23.3 + " " New York " 28.5 + " " St. Petersburg " 27.5 + +Both these tables are, however, probably affected by the great number of +immigrants finding their way to Argentina, many of whom remain in Buenos +Aires. + +The health of the City may be well gauged by the death-rate for the year +1907. + +Buenos Aires stands well with 15.2 per 1,000 inhabitants. +London has a death-rate of 15.1 " " +Berlin " " 14.8 " " +New York " " 18.6 " " +St. Petersburg " 25.7 " " + +(Undoubtedly the high rate shown by the last-named city is greatly due +to the foul condition of the Neva.) + + +To appreciate thoroughly the position which Buenos Aires now holds, and +the strides which have been made in regard to the sanitation of the +City, we have but to look at the past. Between the years 1889 and 1898 +the death-rate per thousand was as high as 22.9 per 1,000; from 1899 to +1908 it was only 16.6, and now the record stands at 15.2 per 1,000. + +The authorities are justly proud of what has been done, and will not +diminish their efforts so long as there is work to do and problems to +solve. + +I should like to state once more the fact that the United Kingdom +depends upon Argentina for nearly one-fourth of her food supply +purchased abroad. I want to impress upon your mind the seriousness of +the position, for this proportion of one-fourth will be largely +increased in the near future, for reasons already stated. + +The question has often been asked, "Is it safe to buy land in +Argentina?" But the drift of this query too often is merely +self-interest; in other words, it really means "Can I successfully +speculate in land?" Clearly the matter is solely a personal one, no +other consideration is thought of, so one is tempted to give an evasive +answer. Should the questioner, however, be a young fellow, with God's +gift of health and plenty of truth and grit in him, who wants not only +to acquire the land, but to work it, then, indeed, there is but one +answer, and that is in the affirmative--let him go, and let him ever +remember that he is an Englishman and that England is judged by the +conduct of her sons: but do not let him make the great mistake a +newcomer so often falls into, which is, that because he is an Englishman +all other nationalities must be inferior, and that by some sort of +divine right he has been created lord of all. Let him realise that those +whom he meets in Argentina are as noble and pure as those he left at +home. Argentina offers to-day a splendid opening for the best of +England's sons, but she does not want the loafer nor the ne'er-do-well. +Can it be wondered at that England's prestige is seriously injured when +so many of the "wasters," and worse, are sent from the country? It is +but natural that from these, who go to foreign countries, England is +judged. To my mind we should send abroad men who are bound to succeed, +men who never forget that from their behaviour the Mother Country will +be appraised. Argentina will embrace and reward them, but she will spurn +and despise the dissolute and drunken. + +The advice I would give to all those thinking of trying Argentina as a +field for agricultural work is to remember that to be successful one +must begin at the bottom, the harder the school the better will be the +result: you cannot detect and correct the faults which militate against +success unless you have been through the mill. Not long ago I sent a boy +out to Argentina and painted the first two years of learning in the new +country in rather lurid colours. I explained and dwelt on the +hardships--indeed, I described it as "a dog's life." Within a year, the +lad wrote home to his parents and mentioned all that I had told him, but +finished up by saying, "There's plenty of 'life' about it, but not much +'dog.'" The truth is that the boy had accepted things as they came along +and had adapted himself to his surroundings, and, I predict, he will +never regret having left his home, where opportunities were cramped by +small surroundings, for the wider field of Argentina. + +A great many Englishmen resident in Argentina, whose sons are looking +forward to finding their life's work in that country, send their boys +home to England to be educated. Far be it from me to deprecate the +training acquired by English public school life, but it might well be +worth while to consider the other phase. The boy who has had his +schooling in Argentina and goes through his training and passes into one +of their Universities will have to his credit something which cannot be +bought by money or influence by boys straight out from home. He will +have been a fellow student, and worked shoulder to shoulder with men who +will in due time occupy positions of power and influence, and it is just +as well to weigh out these things before deciding where to educate your +boy. A boy born in Argentina, whatever the nationality of his parents +may be, is by Argentine law an Argentine subject, and should be brought +up to appreciate that he is liable to be called upon to go through a +military course: the Argentine boy, who has had just as gentle an +upbringing as the English boy, is compelled to serve his time in the +army if called upon, and generally the discipline engendered by this +training has not only been good for him, but is a distinctly valuable +asset to the country, and the English boy, as well as a boy of any other +parentage born in the country, will be obliged to go through this +military training if required. + +I venture to think that were England to adopt compulsory military +service in some shape or form, we should hear a great deal less of the +unemployed and "don't-want-work" demonstrations. + +To attempt to give a picture of Argentine life is impossible in the +short time at my disposal. Imagine to yourself, if you can, a country of +1,212,600 square miles whose borders extend from well within the Tropics +to away down south to the everlasting snows, embracing all kinds of +lands, from the very richest of soils to ice-capped and rocky peaks, and +you must admit that to attempt to describe the various conditions of +life therein is wellnigh impossible. Life is much what the surrounding +conditions make it--on the extreme edge of cultivation it is distinctly +rough, on the inner camps refinement steps in, and in the cities you +will find just what society you wish. Amongst the cosmopolitan +population of Buenos Aires there are many men and women of the highest +culture and education. + +There are many Argentines, who stand out prominently from the throng of +busy pleasure-seekers, who are devoting their lives to improving the +surroundings of those less fortunate fellow-creatures who have fallen +upon the thorny path, and whose portion is often the cup of bitterness. +Indeed, I have ever found the Argentine desirous of helping those who +seek advice and assistance; but he spurns the foreigner who degrades +himself and his country by acts of folly which would not be permitted in +his native land. + +Englishmen often fall into the great error of keeping themselves to +themselves. Possibly this trait is engendered from birth and training by +our insular position, but it is a great pity to carry it too far, for +the Argentine people do appreciate the thoroughness of our countrymen, +and are ready to welcome the right sort. We have taught the Argentines +many of our national sports and games, and they have entered into them +with such thoroughness that the teachers have often had to admit that +the pupil has proved better than the master. + +Travelling has become an integral part of the education of the Argentine +family to-day, and it is quite general to find young children speaking +fluently four or five languages. + +I could wish that those who have Argentine friends would insist upon +their seeing, when in this country, some of the Englishman's home +surroundings, for hotel life, theatres, dinners, and music-halls are all +very well in their way, but to see the real inwardness of English life +you must follow the Englishman to his country home. My experience is +that the Argentine will always refuse an invitation to your home at +first, because of the trouble which he believes you will be put to, but +don't take "no" for an answer; simply make him come, and he will thank +you afterwards for his experience of English home life. + +Just a word or two, for fear I have left an impression that Argentina is +the El Dorado which lies beyond the seas. There are such things as +locusts, floods, droughts, and frosts in that country. + +The first of these--locusts--are indeed a plague which to-day it seems +almost impossible to annihilate, for I have little faith in man's +attempts effectually to stop or decrease this pestilence; on the other +hand, Nature always seems to be on the alert to prevent an overthrow of +the balance of things. Those who have spent their lives in the River +Plate district have seen this appalling plague crushed by means which +Nature, in her own good time, has thought fit to use. + +With regard to floods and droughts, these can, at least, be modified by +men, and means are now being adopted to conserve the floods and render +their waters available in time of drought. + +From frosts we seem powerless to defend ourselves, and it is only those +whose work is in close touch with the growing and handling of crops who +can fully appreciate the damage done by late frosts. + +No country is free from drawbacks of some sort or another, and these +troubles which I have just mentioned will not prevent the forward march +of progress in Argentina. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[A] These figures are approximate + +[B] The dollar referred to throughout this paper is the Argentine paper +dollar, which since 1899 has had a fixed value, and is worth +approximately 1s. 9d. Previous to that date its value fluctuated +considerably. + +[C] A list of the other Colonies and Foreign Countries which largely +contributed to this total will be found on the following page. + +[D] The other colonies and foreign countries which largely contributed +to the totals mentioned are as follows:-- + +DENMARK--Barley £22,708 Meat 5,988,573 + +ROUMANIA--Corn, etc. £2,564,538 Meat nil. + +TURKEY (including CRETE)--Corn, etc £1,383,971 Meat nil. + +TURKEY, ASIATIC--Corn, etc. £1,344,322 Meat nil. + +CHILI--Corn, etc £1,099,660 Meat 10,682 + +BRITISH INDIA--Corn, etc £2,226,668 Meat nil. + +NEW ZEALAND--Corn, etc £30,585 Meat 4,168,649 + + + + +HISTORY OF THE SANTA FÉ LAND COMPANY, LIMITED. + +In the years 1881 and 1882, Messrs. C. de Murrieta & Co. acquired a +block of land from the Government of the Province of Santa Fé, and in +December, 1882, sold one undivided half-share thereof to Messrs. Kohn, +Reinach & Co. Messrs. Murrieta & Co. and Messrs. Kohn, Reinach & Co., +having decided to develop the said lands, formed the Santa Fé Land +Company, and the prospectus appeared in July, 1883. + +The area sold to the new Company was said to comprise about 650 Spanish +leagues, or 4,336,150 English acres, and the price to be paid to the +vendors was £1,050 per league. + +In order to provide a port of shipment on the Rio Parana the Company +bought a further lot of 323 acres in the Colony of Romang. + +In addition to the original block of land, the Company has since bought +the following areas:-- + +The estancia of La Barrancosa, 10,801 hectareas, say 26,678 + +The estancia of Santa Catalina, 4,049 hectareas, say 10,002 + +A strip of land at Guaycuru on the eastern boundary +of the Company's forest lands, 1,636 hectareas, say 4,041 + +A piece of land at Venado Tuerto, 37 hectareas, say 91 + +A piece of land at Arrufo, 100 hectareas, say 247 + +A piece of land at Tostado, 50 hectareas, say 123 + + 41,182 + +Since the beginning of the Company the total area of land sold has +amounted to 709,549 acres (up to 30th June, 1910). It is calculated +that the land comprised in the Bazan claim, to which reference is made +later on, measures 582,914 acres. Upon this supposition the Company now +owns 3,044,100 acres. + +The original price paid for the Company's lands worked out at about 3s. +an acre. + +The original capital of the Company was £875,000, of which over £675,566 +was paid to the vendors, leaving a balance of £199,434 to meet the +preliminary expenses and the initial cost of opening up the new +properties. After some years it was found necessary to write off a +portion of the capital, and accordingly, in 1897, the Company's lands +were re-valued at approximately 2s. 9d. an acre. + +The present Directors of the Company are:-- + +Mr. CAMPBELL P. OGILVIE (_Chairman_). +Mr. IVOR BEVAN. +Mr. GORDON H. BROWN. +LORD HAWKE. +Mr. LOUIS H. KIEK. +Mr. T.E. PRESTON. +Capt. The Hon. F.C. STANLEY. + +The London Office is at 779, Salisbury House, Finsbury Circus, London, +E.C., and the Secretary of the Company is Mr. David Simpson. The Head +Office in the Argentine is at 761, Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires, and +the following are the principal officers of the Company in Argentina:-- + +Mr. HUGH M. RATTRAY (_General Manager_). +Mr. W.B. WHIGHAM (_Manager of the Cattle +and Lands Department at Sun Cristobal_). +Mr. R.N. LAND (_Manager at Santa Catalina_). +Mr. T. SCOTT ROBSON (_Manager at La Barrancosa_). +Mr. G.L.C. GITTINS (_Acting Manager of the Woods Department_). + + + +SHARE CAPITAL. + +The original shares of the Company were £10 each. It was decided in 1897 +to reduce them to £7 fully paid, which placed the capital at £612,500. +Shortly afterwards each £7 share was converted into seven shares of £1 +each. + +In 1906 the shareholders authorised the creation of £200,000 of fresh +capital, which was issued to them in two blocks of £154,000 in 1906 and +£46,000 in 1907. + +Fresh capital was authorised in 1908, viz., £187,500, of which £161,608 +was issued in 1909, and further lots have since been issued, bringing +the total amount of authorised capital to £1,000,000, and of issued +capital at 30th June, 1910, to £982,347. + +An issue of £50,000 Six per Cent. Debentures was made in January, 1904; +and the whole amount was redeemed on the 1st July, 1909. + + +BAZAN LANDS. + +Part of the area sold to the Company consisted of a block of +approximately 88 Spanish leagues, or 530,000 English acres, which became +the subject of negotiations and lawsuits between this Company, the +Provincial Government of Santa Fé, and other parties, lasting for more +than twenty-five years. The area in question lay to the West of the Rio +Salado, and, at the time when this Company was formed, was supposed to +be included in the Province of Santa Fé. Soon afterwards the Province of +Santiago del Estero put forward a claim to the lands on the ground that +the boundaries of that Province extended eastwards to the Rio Salado, +and it therefore disputed the right of the Province of Santa Fé to sell +the lands to Messrs. Murrieta & Co. in 1882. + +By an Agreement with the Government of the Province of Santa Fé, the +Santa Fé Land Company took proceedings in the Supreme Courts of the +Province to establish its rights to the land in dispute on the +understanding that if the Company failed to establish its claim, the +Government of the Province of Santa Fé would indemnify it for its loss. +In the result the Company was evicted from the lands, and entered into +negotiations with the Government of the Province of Santa Fé for +indemnification. These negotiations went on for some years without +coming to any practical conclusion, and at last the Company commenced a +lawsuit against the Province and won it. After further delays and +negotiations the Government agreed to issue bonds in respect of the +Company's claim, and, in July, 1909, the Company agreed to accept +$3,212,000 paper Bonds of the Province, carrying interest at 3-1/2 per +cent., with an amortisation of 1/2 per cent., the coupons being +available for payment of land tax. The Government further undertook to +ratify the original titles of the Company, and to make a survey at the +joint expense of both parties, for the purpose of ascertaining the exact +area comprised in the original transfer. Any lands found to be in excess +were to be paid for by the Company to the Government at the rate of +$13.50, paper, per hectarea (about 8s. an acre). The price of such +excess lands was to be recouped by the Government from the Bonds issued +to the Company, and the Government retained $712,000 Bonds for this +purpose, pending the result of the survey. + +[Illustration: _Cattle Train on Central Argentine Railway, bringing +Cattle to Barrancosa._] + + +RAILWAY COMMUNICATION. + +At the time of the formation of the Company, the nearest railway was +that belonging to the Central Argentine Railway, and the nearest +railway station was Rosario, but some years later, the lines now +belonging to the French Railway Company of the Province of Santa Fé were +laid between Santa Fé and San Cristobal. Subsequently the Central Norte +Railway, which stretches northwards from San Cristobal to Tucuman, was +built by the National Government, and in 1907, the National Government +built a line from Santa Fé to San Cristobal _via_ San Justo. + +The Company have built a railway from a point north of Vera running into +their forests, and extend it from time to time as the development of the +wood industry demands. They further own a line from Margarita to La +Gallareta, where the extract factory of the Compania Tanin de Santa Fé +is situated. The Company propose to build a railway from San Cristobal +to penetrate to their northern properties, and have applied to the +Argentine National Government for a railway concession in connection +therewith. + + +ADMINISTRATION. + +After various changes of centre the administration offices of the +Company were, in the year 1902, divided between San Cristobal for the +cattle and lands department, and Vera for the woods department, but, in +1906, the woods department was placed under the supervision of the +General Manager of the Company, who lived at San Cristobal, and, in +1908, the central offices were moved from San Cristobal to Buenos Aires. +Through the latter office all the work of the Company in Argentina +passes on to the London office, the managers at San Cristobal, Vera, +Santa Catalina, and La Barrancosa, having to concern themselves only +with the technical and administrative work carried on under them +respectively. + + +COMPANY'S BUSINESS. + +The Company's business has been mainly divided into three branches, +viz.: (1) land sales and rentals; (2) cattle industry, and (3) timber +trade. + +The first two branches are conducted from San Cristobal, situated at the +S.W. corner of the Company's original lands, and for many years the site +of the central offices of the Company in Argentina, whilst the timber +trade is conducted from Vera. + + +SAN CRISTOBAL DEPARTMENT. + +A township was started at San Cristobal in 1884, and now numbers 4,500 +persons. + +The Administration House and other buildings for the use of the General +Manager and Staff of the Cattle and Lands Department were erected about +three miles from the town, and the whole now forms a large and handsome +establishment, equipped with the most modern requisites for carrying on +the work of the estancia. + +The cattle lands have been divided up into sections, which are managed +by officials of the Company, under the control of the administration at +San Cristobal. The office there and the offices on the various sections +have recently been connected up by telephone. These sections are +Polvareda, Michelot, Los Moyes, and Lucero (which lie to the North and +North-East of San Cristobal), and Las Chuñas, which forms the +North-Western corner of the Company's lands. + +[Illustration: _Loading Wheat at Rosario from the "Barranca."_] + +[Illustration: _San Cristobal Estancia House._] + + +SANTA CATALINA AND LA BARRANCOSA. + +In January, 1897, the Company rented the estancia of Santa Catalina, +which is situated about five miles from Los Cardos on the Central +Argentine Railway and about 150 miles South of San Cristobal. Here the +stock which was brought down from San Cristobal was fattened before +passing on to the markets. At the same time the Company continued the +sowing of alfalfa which had been begun by the proprietor, and ultimately +decided to buy the camp and use it as an establishment for breeding fine +stock. The terms of the purchase were that the price should be paid by +way of an annuity, payable during the joint lifetime of the owner and +his wife. In 1909 this method of payment was compounded and satisfied in +full by an allotment of shares of the Company. + +The practice has been that the male calves born on this estancia should +be sent North to the general herds kept at San Cristobal and the +adjoining sections, and that the progeny of these animals should in turn +be sold as fat cattle. + +To facilitate this business the Company found it necessary to acquire a +camp specially adapted for fattening purposes in the Southern part of +the Province, so that they might be brought into closer touch with the +markets of Rosario and Buenos Aires. They accordingly bought the +estancia La Barrancosa in 1906, and have been constantly increasing the +area there under alfalfa, equipping it with a full complement of wells +and fencing. This estancia lies half way between the towns of San Isabel +and Venado Tuerto, from the latter of which it is distant about sixteen +miles. But, during the year 1909, a new broad-gauge railway line was +opened, leading from Rosario to Bahia Blanca. It passes right through +the estancia, and by means of a station just outside the boundary the +Company have fresh means of despatching their animals to Rosario. + + +VERA DEPARTMENT. + +The headquarters of the Woods Department is situated about eight miles +N.W. of the town of Vera, which stands at kilometre 250 north of the +City of Santa Fé on the line of the French Railway Company leading from +Santa Fé to Resistencia. Sawmills and offices were built, which involved +the presence of a considerable number of work-people, for whom houses +had to be provided. Consequently, a small village has grown up at the +place. + +A branch railway was begun in 1905, at a point 13 kilometres north of +Vera town, on the French Railway, to penetrate westwards into the +Company's forests, and has been extended to a point called Olmos, lying +30 miles away. Along the line two or three hamlets have sprung up, where +people connected with the wood industry reside, as well as the Company's +officials who control the timber in the neighbourhood. + +In 1904 the Company entered into an agreement with Messrs. Albert and +Charles Harteneck, Frederick and Charles Portalis, and Hermann Renner, +to bring out a Company to work a factory for the manufacture of tannin +extract from the wood of the Quebracho Colorado tree, and this factory +was ultimately built within the Company's properties at a place called +La Gallareta, which is situated 17 kilometres north-west of the Station +of Margarita on the French Railway line. The Santa Fé Land Company have +also built a branch line from Margarita to this tannin factory. + +[Illustration: _Watering-Place at Barrancosa._] + +[Illustration: _Wood on the Company's Own Line ready for Loading._] + +THE FOLLOWING TABLE SHOWS THE FINANCIAL POSITION OF THE COMPANY FROM +1898 TO THE PRESENT TIME. + +Year Share Capital. Deben- Profit. Loss. Placed Balance Dividend +ending. tures to Forward. (percent.) + Autho- Issued 6 per cent. Reserve. + rised. and fully + paid. + £ £ £ £ £ £ £ +30th June, +" 1898 612,500 612,500 ... 420 ... ... Cr. 420 ... +" 1899 612,500 612,500 ... ... 1,650 ... Dr. 1,230 ... +" 1900 612,500 612,500 ... 11,757 ... ... Cr. 2,870 1-1/4 +" 1901 612,500 612,500 ... 9,854 ... 2,000 " 3,068 1-1/4 +" 1902 612,500 612,500 ... 20,746 ... 10,000 " 6,158 1-1/4 +" 1903 612,500 612,500 ... 23,988 ... 10,000 " 7,896 2 +" 1904 612,500 612,500 50,000 28,332 ... 6,000 " 8,790 3-1/2 +" 1905 612,500 612,500 50,000 36,483 ... 6,000 " 8,648 5 +" 1906 812,500 612,500 50,000 48,183 ... 6,000 " 11,018 6-1/2 +" 1907 812,500 766,500 50,000 82,700 ... 12,000 " 20,398 8 +" 1908 1,000,000 812,500 50,000 91,463 ... 86,628[E] " 20,611 10 +" 1909 1,000,000 812,500 50,000 115,375 ... 20,000 " 22,549 10 and + Bonus of 1-1/2 + +[Illustration: _Loading Timber at Wayside Station._] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[E] Including £76,623 from Share Premiums. + + + + + +THE VALUE OF LAND IN ARGENTINA. + + +When one goes to a foreign country, and more especially when he intends +to settle there with the idea of making a fortune, he naturally turns +his attention to the value of the land, as from this he draws his views +of the prosperity of the country. Now, twenty-five years ago the +Argentine had comparatively very few railways; consequently, the lands +at any long distance from Buenos Aires (the capital) were at a very low +value. The province of Buenos Aires, the largest in the country, has +always been the most populated, and its lands have always commanded the +highest prices, and these have risen tremendously, but not so much of +late years in proportion as land in the northern provinces. During the +years 1885, 1886, 1887, and 1888, there was a great boom in land. +Foreigners were pouring in, bringing capital; great confidence was put +by foreign capitalists in the country, several railways had run out new +branches, new railways were built, new banks were opened, and a very +large extent of land was opened up and cultivated, and put under wheat +and linseed, harvests were good and money was flowing into the country. +Then came a very bad year, 1889; the harvest was practically lost owing +to the heavy and continuous rains which fell from December till July +with hardly a clear day. This, together with a bad government and the +revolution of 1890, created a great panic and a tremendous slump in all +land, from which it took a long time to recover. Where people had bought +camps and mortgaged them, which was the general thing to do in those +days, the mortgagees foreclosed, and, when the camps were auctioned +off, they did not fetch half what the properties had been bought for in +the first instance, some four or five years previously. This, naturally, +had a serious effect on the credit, soundness, and finances of the +country, but really, the crisis was not felt until some three or four +years after, and it was 1896 and 1897 which were very serious years for +the country. + +To give one an idea of the value of land in four or five of the +principal provinces of the country, I must begin with the Queen +Province, as it is called, viz., Buenos Aires. In 1885, property in the +city centre was worth 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. a yard, whereas to-day it has +been sold up to £200 sterling per yard, while suburban lots of 20 yards +by 60 yards realised £5 and to-day are fetching £150, and camp lands +have risen from £10,000, to £100,000 the square league. Of course this +is within a radius of 30 to 50 leagues of the city; lands away to the +south and west may yet be bought at £10,000, and, still further south +towards Neuquen and the far Pampa, at £2,000 per square league. The +province of Buenos Aires is not considered good for alfalfa growing, but +has good natural grass camps. + +The province of Santa Fé is a large province, extending from the +northern boundary of the province of Buenos Aires to Santiago del +Estero, and contains what is known as the Gran Chaco. The southern +portion of this province is largely dedicated to the production of +wheat, linseed, and maize, for which it is admirably adapted. There are +also large estancias carrying vast herds of cattle, sheep, and horses, +while the northern portion has vast forests of very fine and valuable +timber. + +[Illustration: _Wheat ready for Loading at Station on Central Argentine +Railway._] + +The first part of this province to be developed was the country around +Rosario, the large port on the River Parana, where ocean-going steamers +call. This, together with good railway accommodation in all directions +combined with excellent land in the district, facilitates the +cultivation of cereals on a very large scale. Property in Rosario itself +is very valuable, and from £30 to £50 a yard is a common figure. In the +immediate district of Rosario land is rarely sold in large areas, but +may be calculated at £20 an acre, whilst 40 leagues further north it is +to-day worth £50,000 a league. I know of one estancia of one league +which was bought in 1885 for £2,000, resold, after being sown down in +alfalfa and divided into paddocks, without further improvements, at +£12,000 (this was in 1903), and again sold in 1909, certainly with +further improvements as regards watering arrangements and more paddocks, +house, and sheds, etc., in fact, a fair model estancia in good working +order, for £60,000. Land on the south-west of Rosario, and about 40 +leagues distant, has in the twenty-five years risen from £2,000 a league +to £40,000 a league. This is for virgin camp, and to-day in these +districts the average price can be stated at from £30,000 to £40,000 per +league, yet 300 miles further north land--good land--can be had at from +£4,000 to £6,000 per league. + +The next province, Cordoba, is one of the most hilly in the country, and +has been one of the most developed during latter years. Some twenty +years ago this was almost considered a desert, where one was told +nothing would grow and cattle could not live. To-day it is one of the +most prosperous; wheat and linseed are great products here, while +alfalfa, when carefully treated, that is, not overstocked, lives for +ever on account of the sandy soil, and water being so near the surface. +These lands twenty years ago were valued at about £500 to £600 per +league, while to-day it is difficult to acquire land under cultivation +or alfalfa at less than £30,000 per league. In the Northern part of this +province are very valuable stone quarries. + +Another province that is advancing very fast is that of San Luis. Here, +again, it has been found that alfalfa is at home, and thrives +splendidly. This, again, is a very sandy soil, and consequently is much +sought after, but this land has not yet touched the value of that in the +provinces already mentioned; it will not stand so much cropping, and +will not carry the same amount of stock, but still the average price for +virgin camp is from £5,000 to £10,000 per league. In this province there +is a very large extent of very poor land, covered with a small shrub, +which is not worth more than £2,000 a league. + +Mendoza is a more northerly province, and mostly dedicated to the grape +and wine industry, while a lot of fruit is also exported from there. +Wine is made in very large quantities, and a lot of very good quality. +The value of land varies very much. The greater portion is worth at +present very little. The great point is to get the water concessions for +irrigating; without irrigation the land is useless. A good vineyard in +its prime, with good irrigation rights, is worth as much as from £40 to +£50 per acre, while the ordinary camp land is at about 7s. per acre. + +[Illustration: _The Maker of Land Values._] + + + + +REMARKS ON STORMS AND THE CLIMATE OF THE ARGENTINE. + + +The Argentine Republic, like all hot countries, is subject to very great +hurricanes and storms. They occur most frequently in the spring and +summer, when very sudden changes of temperature take place. The +thermometer has often been known to drop 25 degrees within half an hour. + +A great deal of damage is always caused, trees which have taken years of +care and trouble are ruthlessly uprooted, roofs blown off, windmills +blown down, haystacks turned over, and valuable animals struck by +lightning. The terrible closeness and stillness which generally precede +a "tormenta" are certain forerunners of bad weather and storms. A +terrible hailstorm which took place some time ago will always be +remembered by its spectators. The usual signs of it were evident; the +atmosphere had become very close and it had been extremely hot for some +hours before. Though only about 4 p.m., it got peculiarly dark and a +strong gale began to blow, and distant sounds of thunder were heard. A +sudden lull came, which meant that the storm was about to break; sheets +of lightning of every description were followed by deafening peals of +thunder, which made man and beast tremble. Then there came a downfall of +huge hailstones; they were just like big lumps of jagged ice; some of +them measured about six to eight inches round and weighed over half a +pound. This storm did a fearful lot of harm; not a leaf was left on a +single tree, and hundreds of birds lay dead all around. Though very +violent, this hailstorm did not last more than ten minutes, in which +time an incalculable amount of destruction took place. + +In September, 1909, a very bad cyclone suddenly came on us. The sky +turned black and blacker, and the clouds looked horribly wicked. +Suddenly a terrific gale got up, which caused every window and door to +rattle in a most alarming manner, though they had all been as well +secured as possible. The dust seemed to filter in just the same, and in +five minutes the house was an inch thick in it. We heard a loud bang and +then another over our heads, and on looking out of a window we saw the +roof of one of the outer buildings lying on the ground; part of it had +been blown over our house and had carried away the chimney, a big iron +one, on its way. We were told afterwards that the cook had had to use +all her force against the kitchen window to keep it from bursting open, +as, if the wind had got in, it would have carried away that roof as +well. This hurricane lasted for about an hour and a-half; as soon as it +had abated somewhat we went out to see the result. Everywhere reigned +havoc and confusion, the whole place looked an old ruin, brick-bats, +tiles, broken branches, loose sheets of corrugated iron lying all +around; three roofs had been blown away, several windmills knocked down +and carried 100 yards away, and lovely old trees had been completely +uprooted. + +The natives, frightened of remaining in their own quarters, had, in +their terror, deserted them and taken refuge, with their wives and +children, in the open camp, where they fondly imagined they were safer. +Out in the camp the roofs of most of the "puestos," or huts, had been +also carried away, leaving the occupants exposed to the cold rains and +winds which followed. + +A peculiar feature of this storm was that it was not at all general; at +the neighbouring "estancias" it was not felt at all, and some of the +"peons," who were riding in the camp at the time, said they could see +this whirlwind coming a long way off at a tremendous rate and that it +looked like a column of red smoke; they could not feel the effects of +the wind either, although they were not more than half a mile away. + +This storm was followed by very heavy rains which lasted for about ten +days, during which our house was flooded, as the wind had lifted the +tiles and the rain was driven in through every possible place. + +Another time, when driving home from the town of Vernado Tuerto, we were +caught in a very bad dust storm. Things became so black that we could +not see where we were going, so we had to halt. The wind was so strong +that the men had to get out of the carriage, which was a heavy +covered-in waggonette, and hold the wheels down to prevent it from being +overturned. We all looked like seaside niggers, as the dust and rain +falling at once came down like mud on us all. One gets quite hardened to +these severe storms. On one occasion a very rough wind began to blow, +but, as it was a steady gale, no one took particular notice of it. It +was after dinner, and everybody was busy playing cards. The wind made +such a deafening noise that you could hardly hear yourself speak; +presently some of the occupants of the house thought they would have a +look outside to see if things were all right; when they were surprised +to see an outer building, used for stores and machinery, roofless, and +the roof nowhere to be seen; it was discovered afterwards on the top of +their own house, and they had never heard it happen. + +The climate in the Argentine is very variable; we have great extremes of +heat and cold. It is healthy as a rule, except in the swampy districts +or during a very wet season, when a great many residents suffer from +rheumatism. + +People talk about the sudden changes of English weather, but we are +treated just the same; one day it will be brilliantly hot and fine, and +another day cold and miserable. + +One part of the country or another is generally suffering from drought, +when in another part they are being flooded out. + +In the winter there is much more sunshine than there is in England; in +the early morning it is bitterly cold, at noon on a fine day it is +blazing hot, and then, as soon as the sun goes in, it freezes hard. + +In the summer, of course, the heat is very great, but, as it is +generally dry, it is quite healthy. + + + + +SOME EXPERIENCES OF WORKING ON ESTANCIAS. + +I came out with my brother on a tramp steamer from Penarth. We took +thirty-one days. However, time passed fairly quickly, chipping off rust +and painting the decks, after we got over our sickness. + +Rain fell heavily as we landed at Buenos Aires, two typical _gringos_ +(greenhorns), not knowing a word of Spanish. I went to a first-class +hotel, whose proprietor I had met in England. My first attempt to speak +Spanish was in a tram. I asked the conductor to stop; getting out I +said, "Mucha grasa" (much fat), instead of "muchas gracias" (many +thanks)--then called the man a fool for laughing. + +We stopped in Buenos Aires a week and our bill came into hundreds of +dollars, which took a big slice off our small means. + +We then went to an estancia (farm) in the Province of Cordoba. The +estancia was fifty-one miles square, owned by an Argentine family. The +manager was a North-American, well known in camp life. + +The estancia consisted of three sections, one where I went, another +where my brother was, and the other the headquarters. + +I was under a young Scotchman. The camp was fifteen miles, with 3,000 +cows, 2,000 steers, and 500 mares. There was my companion, one peon +(man), a boy, and myself. My house was made of mud walls and floor, a +zinc roof, with a little straw. It was cool in summer, but very cold in +winter. There was one room for ourselves, where we slept and ate, one +for the cook (when we had one), and a kitchen. Under my bed I had a +snake's hole; a long black snake came out in the night, and, on hearing +a sound, would go back. I did everything to kill it, but with no +success. Also I had two kittens which slept in my bed. One night I felt +something soft by my feet. I thought it was the kittens, but, putting my +hand down, I found my feet covered with blood. I jumped out of bed, and +found a young hare half eaten and my sheets covered with blood. + +The first thing I had to do was to skin a cow, and it made me feel very +uncomfortable to look at the horrid sight. The next day I was sent to +fetch the fat from a dead cow. When I got there I could not see any fat +and wondered what it was. I saw the intestines and carried them bodily +on my new recado (native saddle). My horse got excited and I arrived +dead beat. I told my companion I had the fat: then he burst out laughing +and said I had got the intestines. Needless to say my recado was the +worse for wear. + +The food was different from what I was used to, and I felt ill for a +time. + +In the summer I was up at between three and four, having "maté-cocido" +(cooked Paraguayan tea--the native drink) with a hard biscuit; at +eleven, breakfast of puchero (big pieces of meat boiled in a pot), then +maize with milk and a biscuit. Sometimes tea at four, but very seldom; +supper consisted of an asado and maté at seven or eight o'clock. + +I had charge of two valuable stallions--they had a stable of mud and +straw. + +At branding time the capataz (foreman) came up with his men for a week. +Up before three o'clock, quite dark, we branded 6,000 calves, and I +enjoyed it. + +The Boss seldom came; when he did, his trap would be sure to run over a +piece of wire, and then we heard of it; nothing missed him. + +Then our cook began stealing provisions from the store box. We changed +the locks three times, and each time she bought a key to the same. One +night I asked her for some coffee. She said there was none. I could see +she had some in a small bag, and I went to fetch it. She took up a knife +and threatened me. I soon twisted the knife from her. Our food was bad, +my companion was careless, and frightened of her. One day he had a row, +and she got the sack, using strong language. We then did our own cooking +for eight months: the first one home from camp had to begin cooking. + +The meat we got was often green and bitter. All the time we had puchero +and asado, and an occasional ostrich egg. + +Ostriches swarmed everywhere, and it was good sport lassoing them. I +found one nest with fifty eggs, laid by different birds. My cooking was +rather a failure at first, the smoke was so thick we could not see each +other. I was told to cook maize for dinner. I made a big fire, and +cooked for three hours, and was then told I had the stallions' maize. +Another time it was very dark; our candles, made of old clothes and +grease, had run out. I had made some good soup, and put the pot near the +table, then, walking by, put my foot in it: the hot grease made me hop, +and took the skin off my foot. Our table was an old greasy box; we had +no plates, nor forks, just a big knife. Sometimes, coming in very tired +from a hard day, we had no strength to chop wood and make a fire; we +just went to bed. Many days we only had an asado and maté. Maté I am +very fond of--it is so refreshing and sustaining. + +My brother was only eight miles away: his section was under alfalfa, and +he had a comfortable house. One dark night, going home from his place, I +followed a fence until I came to a cross fence. I was going slowly, +when, all of a sudden, my horse stopped dead, and I shot over the fence, +the bridle and halter came off, and away went my horse, leaving me to +continue five miles on foot. + +Bizcachas (like a big badger) were numerous. One day we dug a two-metre +hole, and next day found eight live ones. They have teeth one and a-half +inches long. + +Our nearest village was eighteen miles away, where I met some English +friends, and played tennis or had some other amusement. I used to start +back at 2.30 a.m. to be in time for work. One night I had to cross a big +field, without a path or fence for a guide. It was dark, and lightning +hard. I made for a light, which I thought was the house. Going for some +time, I came to a fence--I was lost. I unsaddled and lay down to sleep, +the rain was pouring hard, when I heard a donkey braying, so I shouted, +and was answered by a man in a puesto (out-station). The light I saw was +a village twelve miles away. + +My companion was very slack, and the patrons came up and sacked him. + +Then I went to the estancia house for a month, breaking in colts for +driving. I felt rather sad at leaving my rough work. It was hard work, +but I never had better health. + +My Boss then earned $15 per month, and his wife cooked for the men. Now +he is one of the richest men in the country. + +There was no opening there, so the Boss sent me to a New Zealander who +had half a league of camp, all fine stock, good alfalfa and splendid +water. He had a big house and I expected I would live well. My first +work was to dig up locusts' eggs for a week under a hot sun, with the +ground very hard. The Boss was a man of forty-two, very red-faced and +extremely rich, but as mean as possible. + +Our meals took about six to eight minutes, fast eating; he would watch +every mouthful. At tea he would take a lot of milk and give me a little; +he finished soon, while I burnt my throat. He allowed me a slice of +biscuit for each meal. His cook only got $10 a month. + +In the winter we were in bed by six to seven. + +His clothes were a disgrace to any peon. He had native trousers that +button at the foot, with top boots, no socks, his heel and big toe were +sticking out, no vest, only a shirt and an old hat, where the grease of +many years was visible. + +He was a splendid worker--I have not seen a better one. We used to catch +locusts in a big zinc box pulled by two horses; the locusts were put +into sacks, and after being left standing for four days, were carted to +the village, where he got 10 cents a kilo. The smell in carting these +dead locusts was simply terrible. Then I helped pick ten square of +maize, which at first took a little skin off my hands. At branding time +we lassoed each calf to cut off the horns. I had to sit on their necks, +and got smothered in the face with hot blood. The Boss was very proud +because his monthly account only came to $12 for four of us: biscuits, +sugar, tea, and other things. He sent his clothes once in three months +to be washed. He had few friends, no one ever came to visit him, and +every Sunday he shut himself in his room. He bought the place for +$90,000 and sold it for over double. He was a thorough campman, but so +mean. One cold winter 500 cows died of starvation; rather than sell them +at a low price he let them starve. The last thing he said was, he was +"going to New Zealand to marry an ugly lady, but she has plenty of +money." His countrymen called him a disgrace to his country and the +meanest in the Argentine. + +Then a kind friend found me a place on a well-known estancia in the same +province. The manager, the second-manager, and the book-keeper were all +Irish, born in the country. I had a good horse, which I rode fifty miles +to the estancia. + +The second told me to have my food with the peons (men), which was +rather disheartening. I tried to eat in the kitchen, but the French cook +kicked me out, and for ten months I fed with the peons; they were very +good fellows. The second and the book-keeper had meals together. The +second-manager did no work: up at half-past eight, he went to the train, +had a drink at the shop, then came back for dinner, slept until +tea-time, then went to see the train pass again and have another drink, +and came back at all hours. He had been there fourteen years and was +only getting a hundred a month. + +The chief work was loading cattle and sheep for the big freezing +factories. The trucks were rotten. One night we finished at 11 p.m., +after a hard day's work, three of us unloaded 300 quebracho posts in +under three hours. I had a French gardener in my room who did nothing +else but spit and talk politics. + +The Boss took me to learn shearing. I had to shear, gather the wool, +sort it and pack it up. Each man got five cents a sheep, but it was hard +work, all done by hand. + +Then I cut alfalfa for a fortnight--a nice easy job. + +A Catholic priest came to stay for eight days--Mass every day at 7 a.m. +and 8 p.m., sometimes three a day. No work at all. Everyone had to +go--the book-keeper did not, so he got the sack. I, as a Protestant, +went to the sermons, which were very good. It was wonderful; these rough +campmen went away quite tamed for a time. The last night the Boss got +married at half-past twelve at night to a native lady. Another time, +while we were at Mass, someone came to say the gardener was dying--we +raced down, the priest in front ready to hear his confession, but when +we got there the gardener was calmly smoking his pipe, greatly +surprised. + +An inspector of locusts stopped all the summer. He did nothing but eat, +sleep, and drink whisky. We had locust-killing machines of every +description, but we did not kill ten kilos. + +The days I enjoyed were when we started out early to part some animals +in a herd of over a thousand. At eleven we would have an asado and maté, +and give our horses a drink, then finish parting, and get home at +half-past seven. The horses look wrecks, and no good, but they work all +day--mostly galloping--and are splendid stayers. + +The Boss's brother, a very nice man of fifty, married a servant of the +Boss, a girl of eighteen. + +Great excitement is caused by races. The Boss was keen, and the men +talked of nothing else for days. Every Sunday there are races. Once I +rode my horse bareback in three races of 200 metres, and won a bottle of +beer, a packet of tobacco, and a knife. + +Then I was put in charge of fine stock. I had ten Durham bulls, two +thoroughbred stallions, one Pecheron, eight rams and twelve pigs. I had +a boy under me. I also had to saddle up the Boss's and the Second's +horses, and harness the traps. Sometimes I had to wait till eleven at +night, very tired, to unsaddle the Second's horse, as he had been making +love to the Stationmaster's sister. + +The work was very interesting and hard, even on Sundays or feast days, +watering, cleaning the animals, and curing any foals that were ill. + +I then moved to another room near the stable, with a newly arrived +Italian who knew no Spanish nor English, also an Irishman just arrived. +They could not speak to each other. The Irishman slept on the floor +every night, and poured kerosene all over him to keep insects away. One +day he poisoned five pigs, giving them the dip-water to drink. He had +few clothes. He would turn them inside out, and often had three pairs of +trousers and two shirts on. + +One day the Boss was out: the men were taming some wild colts in the +corral. I took French leave and went. I got on five. None had had a +saddle on before or even been handled. We lassoed them, pulled them down +and put on the bridle. Then five men held a long rope and one put on the +native saddle, with stirrups big enough to get your toes in. Then they +tied a red handkerchief round my head. I mounted gently but quickly. +Then the rope was taken off and away the colt went as fast as possible, +with one man on each side to shove you either way, all the time bucking +and plunging. I did not fall, but one stirrup broke. One laid down and +would not move. It tried to bite everyone. When they go fast and buck at +the same time it is very hard to stick on. + +On the 25th of May, the great holiday in this country, I went to an +estancia to see some friends. On my way back we had to cross a deep +river. The coachman drove across, but one wheel went into a big hole and +the jerk sent me out on my head, where the wheel passed over my hair, +missing my head by inches. I was senseless. A crowd of women came and +began weeping--they thought I was dead--then I was taken in a procession +to the chemist, who sent me to a hospital, where I found my collar bone +broken. I did nothing for three weeks. + +This estancia is a splendid one for learners, because there is a little +of everything. Once I had a month with the threshing machine, sleeping +out with the mosquitoes, and getting meat nearly raw for food; but a lot +of money can be made from the harvest. + +Then, after a few weeks' holiday to England, we came back, and I went +down south with my brother to sow alfalfa seed. We had a caravan on +wheels, and learned how to plough and sow. We went to a camp +race-meeting, where every estancia has its own tent, there is racing all +day and dancing at night. + +I often look back upon these jolly times. Work was exacted with anything +but kindness, but the life was simple and very healthy, and many +pleasant reminiscences are talked over when it is my luck to join others +around the camp fire before falling to sleep with nothing but a +bullock's head as a pillow and a "recado" as a blanket and the glorious, +starry sky above one. + + + + +THE SOCIAL SIDE OF CAMP LIFE. + + +To an outsider, life in the camps or country might be considered very +slow: the distance between the estancias being so great, the ordinary +form of social life is quite impossible; for instance, when one goes to +pay a call on a neighbour, even a first call, it means going for the +day, starting in the cool of the morning and returning in the evening, +and so allowing the horses to have a rest. Of course, if everyone had a +motor-car, this might not be necessary; but as yet they are very few and +far between. This is no doubt owing to the bad roads; in most districts, +after a few hours' rain, the roads are flooded, and what is worse still, +"pantanosa" (thick, sticky mud). + +Most estancieros keep open house, and are only too pleased when people +"drop in," which they do at all times and for any meal, almost without a +"by your leave." An estancia house has to be very elastic, and ready to +provide, at a moment's notice, board and lodging for unexpected guests. +This is quite the nicest way of entertaining one's friends--no fuss of +preparation, and, more often than not, a very jolly evening of cards, +music, or games. + +It is a delightful country for men, a healthy, open-air life, with +plenty of hard work and hard riding; each man has from four to six +horses allowed him for working purposes, and then, as a rule (talking of +the English mayor-domo), he has two or three polo ponies of his own. +Sunday is the great day for polo; there is very little time in our busy +Argentine even for a practice game during the week, so Sunday means a +merry meeting of friends wherever there is a polo club in the district, +people going in six or seven leagues (or even more) from one side of +the town to meet friends who have come an equal distance from the other +side, a thing they might not do for months if it were not for the polo +club. Each lady takes her turn in providing tea on these polo Sundays, +and there is great competition as to who makes the best cakes, +especially as it often falls to the lady herself to make these luxuries. + +Wherever there is a polo club the most exciting event of the year is the +Spring Race Meeting, two days' racing, often followed by a polo match or +tournament with neighbouring clubs, and always as many dances as +possible, as it is the only time in the year when enough girls can be +collected together; every estancia house has its own party, as many as +can be crowded in, including friends from Buenos Aires and Rosario, who +delight in these camp meetings, and she is a proud hostess who can count +a few girls amongst her party. I may as well add here that girls are +almost "non est" in the camp, many districts for leagues and leagues +round not being able to boast of one English girl. + +[Illustration: _Tennis Party at Vera_.] + +Most clubs hold a Gymkhana Meeting in the Autumn, which makes one more +excitement in the year: it is a very merry meeting as a rule, with +always a dance or two if enough girls can be found. During the Winter +season (from April 1st to September 1st) the shooting is very good in +most parts, and many good shooting parties are given where there is +enough game to make it worth while asking one's friends. The bag +consists of partridges, martinetta (similar to the pheasant) and hares +(which are not considered worth picking up); when there are a number of +guns, dogs are not used, but two men on horseback drag a wire through +the grass (several in a line, if a big party), which forces the birds to +rise, and the guns walk behind. Peons on horseback, carrying sacks, keep +close up to them and pick up the birds as they fall, and close on their +heels comes a big brake, into which are emptied the contents of the +sacks as they get too heavy. The ladies of the party follow in all sorts +and conditions of vehicles, cheering on the shooters and dispensing +much-needed refreshments. A shoot is always followed up by a jolly +evening, after a hot bath and a good dinner. The men, forgetting how +tired they are, are quite ready to sing, dance, or play bridge until the +small hours. Another great event not to be forgotten is the visit of the +Camp Chaplain: he goes from one district to another holding services, +every Sunday in a different place. In a well-populated district he would +hold one about every two months, but to some places, where there are +next to no English people, he would probably only go about once or twice +a year. Church Sunday is quite an event, and again gives one an +opportunity of meeting friends from a distance. The parson is very +lenient with us as a rule, and does not object to any form of amusement +in the afternoon, such as polo, tennis, cricket, football, or golf, and +encourages the young men to come to _Church_ (usually a room hired for +the occasion) in costumes suitable for such. Our poor Camp Chaplain does +not have an easy time; distances are so great that more than half his +time is spent on the train. + +[Illustration: _Carnival at Vera_.] + + + + +CARNIVAL IN THE ARGENTINE. + + +Carnival falls every year during the week before the beginning of Lent. +It is a general holiday, and much fun and amusement are crammed into the +few days which precede the dull season of fasting. + +Carnival is more observed in camp towns than in the bigger cities, where +the custom of celebrating it is very much on the wane, and where the law +forbids water-throwing and other such damp forms of amusement, which are +winked at by the more lenient authorities in local towns. + +It is really quite a pretty sight to see a camp town during carnival. +The one main street, which does not boast of pavements, and is generally +a yard deep in dust, is gaily decorated with bunting and festoons. Small +stands are put up every ten yards or so, in which the "caballeros" take +up their positions and pelt the "senoritas" with confetti and +"serpentinas" (blocks of different coloured paper which look like rolls +of tape about 30 or 50 yards long). The elite of the "pueblo" drive +round in the procession; ladies, some in the very latest creations, and +some in beautiful fancy dresses, parade round in flower and ribbon +bedecked carriages. A prize is generally given to the best decorated +conveyance, and to the best fancy costume, which causes a lot of +competition and jealousy amongst the fair sex. + +On an estancia, carnival is celebrated in a much more drastic fashion. +On one place, the giddy members of the household have a very rowdy time +of it, and make things very lively for the unwary. On one occasion, they +determined to give the mayor-domo his share of the general drenching +which he had missed; so when he rode in at midday, after a long and busy +morning's work in the camp, he was welcomed with a volley of buckets of +water, which were emptied over him from the top of the house, where the +delinquents had taken up their advantageous position. + +Another time a certain young damsel, a guest in the same house, saw from +the window her hostess entertaining one of the boys, a fresh arrival +from England, who had ridden over from a neighbouring estancia. Prompted +by her daring friends she was induced to take up a jug of water, and +stealing up behind his chair, emptied the contents of the vessel over +the visitor's head, and then bolted; the injured party, after recovering +his self-possession, rose to the occasion and gave chase, and after a +desperate struggle, and in spite of penitent apologies, she was borne +off by her captor and deposited in the first tub he happened to see, +which turned out to be a freshly painted rubbish barrel. + +There is not much respecting of persons on these occasions, the girls +generally combine against the boys, who, as a rule, come off best. The +most binding promises are made on both sides, who vow not to throw +anything larger than a "globo" (a small balloon filled with water, which +bursts when it touches anything solid) or "poms" (leaden squirt full of +scent); but in the excitement of the fray which follows all is +forgotten, and buckets of water, the garden hose, and even the ducking +of some in water troughs, are the final outcome. + +The scene after an afternoon or evening's battle is very funny; girls, +with their hair lying in dripping masses over their faces and shoulders, +their dresses, generally the oldest of thin cotton ones, clinging +hopelessly to their wearied forms, present a truly comic sight. When +they are all tired of strife, they retire by common consent to the +house, where, after discarding their soaking garments and taking a warm +bath, they are ready to discuss the glories of the day over a +much-wanted dinner. + + + + +HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE. + + + + +HORSE-RACING IN THE ARGENTINE. + + +In this country a great deal more racing goes on than in Europe, and it +is not confined to the moneyed classes only. Even the "peones" hold +their small meetings and match their grass-fed ponies. Estancieros and +mayor-domos have camp race-meetings once or twice yearly at all the +larger polo clubs, and at Palermo and Hurlingham every class of society +in Buenos Aires may be seen on the stands. + +At Palmero race-meetings are held frequently, almost weekly in fact, on +Sunday afternoons; and the stands are generally well filled. On days of +festival, when there is a special programme, the place is crowded, and +these occasions correspond, more or less, with the more important +meetings in England. + +The course is of earth, and perfectly flat, so that the only thing which +interferes with the view is dust. The stands are magnificent and the +different grades of society are divided by railings, while at the back +of each may be seen the row of offices of the "Sport," which is the +betting system of the country. + +This consists of tickets, which are sold at a fixed price, with the name +of one of the entries. After the race there is a great rush to the +offices, made by those who have bought the winner, to collect their +winnings, which are the total receipts, minus a small percentage, +divided by the number of those who bought the winner. In this way a very +hot favourite will pay very little more than the original purchase +money, while an outsider who wins will pay his backers perhaps ten, or +even twenty times their deposit. There is also private betting, of +course, but no public bookmakers. + +The horses are of very good quality, though not up to the standard of +the classic races in Europe. A number of youngsters are imported yearly +from England and the United States, and among them usually some good +selling-plate winners, and one or two that have been placed in +first-class flat races. The country also produces some excellent horses, +and they are improving every year; the stud farms are already well known +in Europe as some of the best in the world. Of these, the most +important, perhaps, is the "Ojo de Agua," so-called from its famous +spring, which waters all the stables as well as dwelling quarters. It is +the home of the famous Cyllene, whose offspring we expect to see winning +races in the near future; Polar Star, scarcely less known, and +Ituzaingo, a native of this country, are his present companions; while +the remains of Gay Hermit, Stiletto, Pietermaritzburg, and Kendal, all +of whom are well known among turf circles at home, rest beneath its +soil. There are several other equally famous stud farms, such as the +"San Jacinto," the present home of Val d'Or, who won the Eclipse Stakes +from Cicero, the Derby winner of that year; at another, Diamond Jubilee, +whose list of victories is long, resided for the latter part of his +life. + +Nor are the jockeys unworthy of their mounts, and some very fine riding +may be witnessed both at Palermo and Hurlingham. + +In contrast to these races, run on a well-ordered course, and watched +from luxurious stands, are the native "cancha" meetings, held, probably, +at some country public-house, and run on a "cancha," consisting of a +soft piece of road, or along a fence where there are no holes. The races +consist of matches arranged between two ponies, over short distances. +The start is made only by agreement of both the jockeys, and thus many +hours are wasted in their manoeuvres to get the advantage of one another +at the start. If the judges have money on the loser, the race is often +given a dead heat, and has to be run again. The pony of most endurance +has usually the best chance of winning, though the race itself is short, +as his rival may be tired out by repeated false starts. Large sums of +money often change hands at these meetings, as the native is a born +gambler, and understands this primitive method of racing better than the +more complicated systems of the regular course. Owing to this, and to +the competitors' efforts to cheat one another, not infrequently knives +are drawn during the heated discussion which follows the race. + +The ponies are, for the most part, taken straight off the camp, though +in some cases they have been fed on maize and trained. They are ridden +either bareback or with the native "recado," and catch-weights: as may +be gathered from the method, it is usually "owners up." + +Between these two extreme classes of racing in this country are the +English camp race-meetings, which are held by all the larger polo clubs +once or twice a year. Being of rare occurrence, and as some, if not all, +of the faces are open to members of other clubs, these are among the +chief social gatherings in camp life: in many cases there is a small +polo tournament attached, as it is the best opportunity for those who +come from a distance, and could not come twice. Therefore it usually +means a two or three days' holiday, and often a dance, or some +entertainment in the evenings. Old friends exchange reminiscences, and +new acquaintances are formed; while the ladies also make the best of the +opportunity to put on their smartest frocks and hats. + +The races themselves, too, are the source of considerable talk and +excitement: both horses and jockeys are well known by sight or +reputation to the chief part of the company, and any "dark horse" or new +arrival, is inspected with care and anxiety by his rivals. + +The class of horse entered varies between the three-quarter bred and the +"criollo" with no pretence to breeding at all, who often carries off the +short polo pony sprints. Occasionally there may be a thoroughbred +entered who has been found wanting at Palermo or Hurlingham, but these +are few and not always successful, as the longest races do not often +exceed about a mile and a-half. As the weights correspond to +steeplechase weights at home the jockeys are practically always +amateurs, and a large percentage of "owners up" is always found. Young +mayor-domos who have never ridden at a meeting before often find +themselves ranged alongside of Grand National riders at the start, and +some amusing incidents have occurred, though there is some very good +amateur riding to be seen as well. + +The betting is on a smaller scale generally than at the native meeting, +and is often conducted by someone setting up as a public bookmaker; at +other times a "sport" is formed after the fashion of Palermo. Also the +auction of all entries before the start of the races in the American way +is a great favourite; the total receipts for each race are divided +proportionately between those who bought the winner and "placed" horses. + +There is opportunity for a little horse-dealing too, and many good polo +ponies to send home or play in the tournaments have been picked up in +this way. The shorter races for ponies under polo height give an +opportunity to the polo player, and the mayor-domo who cannot train his +ponies for longer distances, to try the mettle of their mounts against +outside and purer blood. + +Nowadays most of the entries are trained to some extent, though not +many go to regular training establishments. To have a reasonable chance +of running well in the longer races, however, it is necessary to have +your mounts in stable exercised regularly and fed on corn. It is only +quite lately, however, that even so much training has been adopted at +all generally. In the old pioneer days of English estancias, when these +clubs were formed, they raced ponies taken straight off grass and kept +fit by riding the regular rounds of camp and stock. + +There are many tales of the great "rags" that happened in those days, +and curious incidents of racing, too. On one occasion a winner of a polo +pony race was objected to as over height. The measurement was to be +taken after the end of the meeting; and it must be remembered that all +ponies out in the camp are unshod. The man who had come in second went +round to the stables before the measuring and noticed in the winner's +stall a number of large pieces of hoof recently chopped off. The pony +passed with an inch off his forefeet and nothing was said, though it had +been obviously over height. That evening at bridge the owner happened to +win considerably from the man who had lodged the complaint, who, when +the score was to be settled, threw down some pieces of hoof on the table +saying, "Take back your dirty chips." + +Nowadays, of course, things are not quite so rough and ready, and most +of the clubs are affiliated, and run under Hurlingham or the Jockey Club +rules, so that good sport and good feeling prevail. In fact the camp man +looks forward to these occasions as the best bits of sport and amusement +that he will get during the year. + + + + +SUNDAYS IN CAMP. + + + + + +SUNDAYS IN CAMP. + + +In no place is Sunday more looked forward to and enjoyed than in camp. +Holidays on the estancia come but seldom, and were it not for the +welcome break that gives the campman a day of rest every week, his life +would be a round of work, and probably make him the proverbial "dull +boy." All the busy working-days are so filled with the various duties +that when evening comes and dinner is over the tired worker has little +inclination for reading or any other relaxation, the thought of that +early bell which rouses him before sunrise makes him take advantage of +every hour's sleep he can. At an hour when the townman is thinking of +beginning the evening's amusement at theatre or concert, the campman is +sleeping the sound sleep that fresh air combined with hard work never +denies. But on one evening an exception is made to these early hours, +and that is Saturday. With the pleasant feeling of a week's work +completed and the morrow's rest before them, our campmen begin their +weekly holiday by an extra hour or two at billiards or music, or perhaps +a rubber of bridge, turning in with a fervid "Thank goodness, +to-morrow's Sunday." Then the pleasure of waking at the usual hour (4 +a.m. or even earlier in summer) and remembering that it is the blessed +Day of Rest, and having time to enjoy the extra hours, then the luxury +of dressing at one's leisure, choosing the collar and most becoming tie +and adjusting them with care, and coming out in spotless white duck or +smart riding breeches, ready to enjoy whatever sport is in season; +tennis is mostly played all the year round; and when birds are plentiful +a shoot on the lagunas attracts the sportsman, the "bag" making a +welcome variety to the dinner table; snipe, partridge, hares, and many +varieties of duck are common in a season that has not been too dry. +Then, to those lucky ones who have a polo club within reach, Sunday +during the winter season is a day of real enjoyment. + +The game, which in England can only be played by men of means, can on +the estancia be enjoyed by all at little expense, the useful little +Argentine horses being easily trained to the game. Sometimes one finds a +few enterprising golfers who, with not a little trouble, make a few +"greens" and do a couple of rounds just to keep their hand in, but it is +not a general camp game. It will be seen, however, that the Day of Rest +is not one of idleness, but rather a healthful and beneficial change of +exercise. + +Church service enters but seldom into the camp Sunday--such privileges +are rare, although now camp parsons are more numerous than a few years +ago--but at best one can only count on one or two services a year. When +a Church service _is_ held he would be a carping critic indeed who is +not satisfied and pleased with the earnest attention with which the +service is followed and the vigorous singing of hymns and chants in +which all the boys join so lustily; it is a reminder of Home to them, +and the familiar service is thoroughly enjoyed. + +The Day of Rest, so essential to one's well-being, seems to come round +with such surprising rapidity that we may say truly it proves that +estancia life, with its long hours of hard work, so far from being +monotonous or wearisome, is a happy life. Where time flies past quickly +it means it passes happily, and amongst the most pleasant of the days we +spend in this land of sunshine we must count the Sundays in camp. + +[Illustration: "A Day of Real Enjoyment."] + +THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA. + + + + +THE SERVANT PROBLEM IN ARGENTINA. + + +We often hear complaints from friends at home about the trouble they +experience over obtaining and keeping good servants, and there is no +doubt that the servant problem is a serious one in England, and is +getting worse every year; but it pales into insignificance when compared +with the trials and tribulations of those who live in the Argentine and +have to keep house. + +From all one hears, those living in Buenos Aires and the larger towns +have a terrible time of it with their servants, especially if they are +not overburdened with the good things of this world in the shape of hard +cash; but my experiences have been confined to the camp, so that of the +town side of the question I cannot speak. + +I have been three years in the province of Cordoba, and all the servants +I have met with except one were Argentines from the foothills of the +Cordoba Sierras. + +They were without exception quite untrained as far as the English idea +goes, and the first thing to do with them was usually to teach them the +primitive ideas of cleanliness. The first servant I had was an ancient +female named Andrea, about forty years old, and it proved quite +impossible to get her to see the necessity of keeping anything in the +kitchen clean, as she seemed imbued with the idea that it was great +waste of time washing saucepans and frying-pans, as they would only get +dirty again when next used, and the most she could be persuaded to do +was to rub them round inside with a bit of old newspaper or a handful of +grass. Needless to say, after a time I got tired of these methods, and +so we parted. + +My next servant, Angelina, was one of the best I had, as she was clean, +which was a great consideration, and also she was quick to learn and +soon picked up the rudiments of cooking according to our ideas; her +great failing, however, was that she was anything but honest, and could +not refrain from petty pilfering; and another drawback to her was her +objection to wearing shoes or stockings in the hot weather; in spite of +being constantly told that she must not appear without them, she would +insist in doing so, and this was a continual cause of trouble. + +After getting rid of No. 2 our real troubles began, and we had eight +changes in ten months. At the time we were living in wooden huts about +two miles from a village which was a summer resort for rich people from +Buenos Aires, and this caused a dearth of servants during the summer +months, as the place was full from the beginning of December to the end +of March, and people who came up for the summer and rented houses +usually were willing to pay anything to get servants, with the result +that we outside would get none, or only the cast-off ones. Nos. 3 and 4 +stayed but a short time. My fifth attempt was a terrible girl, too dirty +for words; and though apparently willing to learn, too utterly lacking +in intelligence to ever learn anything. She used to get herself into the +most awful grimy condition, and one incident during her time with me is +worth mentioning. I had with great difficulty one day got her to +understand that a wood floor could not be properly cleaned with a grass +broom dipped in cold water and just swished about over it, and, by going +down on my knees with a scrubbing brush and hot water and soap, and +giving a practical demonstration of how a floor should be washed, had +started her away to clean it, and judged that I might safely leave her, +to attend to the other household duties in the kitchen. I must tell you +that the day previously I had given her a practical lesson in +black-leading a stove by doing it myself while she looked on. Well, +after an hour in the kitchen I returned to see how she was getting on, +when I found to my great pleasure that not content with scrubbing the +floor, she had also attacked the stove with hot water, soap, and +scrubbing brush, with the result that my hard work of the previous day +was all undone and the whole room well sprinkled with black specks and +the stove a mass of rust. Two weeks of similar experiences finished our +acquaintance, and she gave place to No. 6. After I had spent three weeks +teaching No. 6 cooking, she quietly informed me that she was leaving at +the end of the week to take up a place as cook in Rosario, as she now +knew enough cooking for the position; so I had not only wasted all my +time in teaching her, but had paid her into the bargain for learning +enough to leave me. + +The next servant, No. 7, Alexandrina, was, I think, the worst. She was a +Spaniard from Barcelona. She was an awful individual, and would insist +on wearing clothes of so light and scanty a nature that she was not +decent to have about the house; also, whenever we happened to have a +joke of any sort to laugh over at meals, she used immediately to come in +from the kitchen to see what was going on, and I had the greatest +difficulty to get her to return to the kitchen. I had to get rid of her, +because her moral reputation was anything but good, and two days in the +week she refused to get out of bed, and told me to do my own dirty work, +as she was ill; so at the end of two weeks she had to go. No. 8, Maria, +was a girl direct from the sierras, and was very stupid and silly, and +did not a single thing. One day I was buying vegetables, and she asked +me why I wanted to buy roots, and when I told her they were to eat, she +said even poor people could afford to buy meat, and she would not eat +them. One day I took this girl out with me to do some shopping, and +called on some people who had a piano. It was twilight, and someone was +playing the piano, and she rushed in the room and out again, with her +face very white, and said someone was beating a big, black animal in the +corner of the room, and it was screaming dreadfully with the pain. This +girl's mother was a very talkative old lady, and would insist on coming +with three children every day and taking up her position in the kitchen, +and when once she commenced to talk, one could not get away from her. At +the end of the month she came for the girl's pay, and wanted me to pay +her more money, which I was not willing to do, as I had been unable to +teach her much; so she asked if her daughter might go away for the day +and night, as she had to bath. This I was only too willing to agree to, +and let her go; but they returned in the middle of the night, and +removed all her belongings. After a few days I managed to get No. 9, who +was a widow with two children: but she only stayed two weeks. Our tenth +and last attempt was made with No. 4 once more, as she was again able to +come to us. She stayed two months, when we went away for four weeks' +holiday. A week after our return I paid her in full for the month, +though she had never been near the house all that time, and she promptly +said she could not stay with us any longer, and left. We nearly got to +No. 11, as we engaged a girl to come at $20 a month to start with, and +she was to come the next morning at eight o'clock to begin work. She +arrived at 10 a.m., and informed me that, as we had paid our last +servant $25 the month, she could not come for less. I was so sick and +tired of my experiences that this finished me, and I decided to do +without any servant. Since then, for the last year, I have done the work +myself. + + + + +POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY. + + + + +POLICE OF A BYGONE DAY. + + +Yes, times have changed since I went to San Cristobal just twenty years +ago. For then the English were pioneers, so to speak; not in a country +of savagery, but of semi-savagery, a very different and much worse +matter. I wonder is A.J., the Chief of Police, still to the fore? Ye +gods, how that man tried to break my heart, and how nearly he succeeded! +I was a Mayor-domo then, and G. was my boss, standing in the place of +the owners to me. The boss had a mortal dread of the police and their +powers, seen and unseen. So that when the worthy Chief of Police +suddenly decided to add the trade of butchering to his many lucrative +businesses, I received orders to sell him cows at twenty-five per cent. +less price than I sold to any of his competitors. Thus, whereas I was +selling them at twenty dollars paper, then worth about one pound per +head, I had to sell him at fifteen shillings, with the inevitable result +that he almost immediately became master of the situation and the entire +local market became his, enabling him to charge what he liked for meat, +while I was forbidden to raise the price of the cows sold him. + +Insatiable in his greed, he began to ask for cattle twice a week, always +taking from ten to twenty animals, until one day, after exceptionally +wet weather, I protested that it was not possible to round up the stock +in the then state of the camp and destroy so much grass for a small +bunch of cows. Unlucky thought and ill-judged protest! For when he urged +that the inhabitants of the town were starving, and that a small point +of half-breed heifers would do to go on with, I received orders to let +him part out from our best herd. Twenty fine half-bred Herefords did he +pick while I almost shed tears of blood, though all the time, of course, +I had to show a smiling face. + +This sort of thing had been going on for some time, when one of the +boundary riders told me that the fence between the town and one of our +nearest paddocks had been cut during the night. + +"Then mend it up," said I. + +"Sir, it is mended already." + +Not a week had passed before the same man brought me the same report. So +I determined to "parar rodeo" (round up the cattle) immediately, and +count them. Twenty heifers short in one square league, and in less than +a month! This thing had to stop. I told the Capataz to take the boundary +rider off that beat, without telling him why, and then the Capataz and I +patrolled the fence night after night for a week, during which it was +never cut. + +We put a new boundary rider on, and three mornings later he came to see +me bright and early, saying that not only had the fence been cut, but +that there were distinct traces of cattle having passed out recently. + +After assuring myself that there was no doubt about the matter, for I +found the hoof marks of what I calculated to be not less than twenty +animals, I went post haste to my friend the Chief of Police, never +doubting that after all the favours shown him he would prove a friend in +need. I was young then. + +"You don't say so, Don Ernesto!" said his podgy, putty-faced little +Highness. "Where was it? When was------ By heavens, somebody shall +suffer for this! Just let me or any of my soldiers catch the thieves, +and not one of them shall reach Santa Fé alive. Now, I'll tell you what. +Just leave it to me, and don't you worry nor think any more about the +matter, much less mention it to a soul. In less than two days I'll have +the thief or thieves here in the stocks." + +I told him plainly that that was not my programme, and that, whatever he +did, I was not going to leave that fence unpatrolled until I could move +the stock out of the paddock. + +"Then this is what we'll do, Don Ernesto. You shall be one of us. You +come and dine with me at six o'clock this evening, and afterwards we'll +go out with the sergeant and five or six men and catch 'em." + +It was about the equinox, if I remember rightly--the springtime, when +everything is lovely and lovable: the camp flowers all in bloom, the +aroma of the trees burdening the air with delicious perfume, the fresh +verdure and plenty of grass, the powerful, stout-hearted bounding of the +horse (no longer "poor") beneath one, and, above all, the great issue +expected of the business in hand, the most important business to me in +the world at the time--all these combined spelled but one word, "Hope!" + +Carbine in hand, Colt in holster, I arrived at his residence. There he +was, sitting at the door of his corner house, whence he could look down +three streets at once. How like a spider, I thought. + +His welcome was cordial, but he seemed to smile at my eagerness, and +told me that he never dined before eight. + +"But let us sit here in the cool of the evening," said he, handing out a +chair for me to sit by him on the footpath, "and let us take some +refreshment to while away the time. But, tell me, where did you say that +the fence was cut? But did you really see signs that cattle had passed? +Preposterous! The sons of guns shall suffer for this. Eh well, I'm glad +of it in a way--glad to have a little work, and perhaps a little +excitement. It doesn't do to have a too orderly district, for the +Governor and his satellites in Santa Fé imagine I'm lazy and not looking +after my business if they hear of no commotions. That black fellow you +sent me the other day, Don Ernesto--the fellow that was molesting a mad +woman in the camp--- I've got him seventeen years in the line for that. +I wish you would send me a few more, for hardly a letter comes from +Santa Fé in which I am not asked to send in recruits, so hard up are +they for Provincial soldiers." + +Just then a poor Italian colonist came up, hat in hand. He, too, and all +his class were pioneers in those days, and God knows what they suffered. + +"Well, what d'ye want?" asked my companion. + +"Sir," said the wretched man, stuttering in his nervousness, "one of my +bullocks has been stolen, and I know the thief. I have been to the +Justice of the Peace, and he told me to bring the thief to him; but, +sir, the th-thief refuses to come." + +"_Bueno_! Ten dollars, and ten dollars _down_," roared the majesty of +law. + +"But, sir,----" + +"No! But me no buts! Ten dollars at once, or I'll call the sergeant to +lock you up until you can get it." + +I could see that the poor fellow's heart was breaking as he drew the +money from his pocket and handed it over. Smilingly the bully turned to +me and said, as his victim walked slowly away, "I'll bet you that that +man doesn't come around to molest me again. I'll guarantee to you, Don +Ernesto, that there isn't a district in the whole province where so few +appeals for justice are made." + +At last it was dinner-time, and, being ushered into a dirty room with a +brick floor, dim light and grimy tablecloth, I seated myself at the +table with my host, his secretary, the doctor, and a clerk. The dinner +was in the usual native style of those days: ribs of beef roasted on +the gridiron, beef and pumpkin boiled together, to finish up with +"caldo," which is simply the water in which the beef and vegetables have +been boiled, with a good thick coating of grease. + +No sooner had we begun dinner than it was noticed that we had no wine. + +"No wine! How's this? What d'ye mean?" as he angrily turned to the +sergeant who was waiting. + +"If you please, sir, So-and-so and So-and-so," mentioning the name of a +local firm of storekeepers, "say that they can supply no more wine until +they can get some of their accounts settled." + +"How dare you bring me such a message as that! Take the corporal with a +couple of men and bring a half-barrel at once--in less than three +minutes, or I'll know the reason why." + +The barrel was brought, and, with a bit and brace, quickly tapped, and +the wine set flowing round the table. + +The dinner dragged on and on, until I thought he meant us to sit there +all night. Ten o'clock came, half-past, and then eleven. Then I began to +smell a rat. I kept on urging the necessity for action, but it became +more and more evident that the Chief was fooling. He pressed wine upon +all and upon me in particular, while he drank little himself, although +he pretended otherwise. At last, I could stand it no longer, and got up +in no very good humour to go. + +"No, but stop, Don Ernesto! Where are you going? Sit down again. The +horses are not saddled yet: not even caught up. Sit down and have +patience and we'll all go with you in good time." + +It was after twelve when at last we made a start. There were the Chief, +the sergeant, a corporal, four men, and myself. We rode slowly in a +northerly direction until we came to a small gate in the fence, of which +I had the key. All the way thither the Chief, while commending me for my +forethought in bringing arms, had been impressing upon me the importance +of not using them, no matter what happened, "Because, you see, you are +not an arm of the law, and if you were to shoot anyone, I should be +obliged to arrest you and send you to Santa Fé." + +When we got through the fence, what was my surprise when the Chief said, +"Bueno, Don Ernesto, you and I have had a long day. What I propose is +that you and I off-saddle and doss down here, while the sergeant and men +patrol with muffled bits and spurs at a short distance from the fence. +Then the moment they hear anything they can come and let us know!" + +In vain I protested that this was not my idea at all, and that I too +wanted to do the patrolling, but when he told a man to take the saddle +off my horse and shake down a bed for me, I thought it wiser to +acquiesce, or, at least, appear to do so. I shall never forget that +night. How we talked and talked and talked as we lay beneath the +brilliant stars, I, boiling with rage and anxiety under my assumed +tranquillity, while he, doubtless, was as much annoyed at having to keep +me in conversation. It must have been nearly four o'clock when I told +him that I really must sleep. "Bueno," said he, as he rolled over on his +side, "hasta mañana." + +In five minutes he was snoring. Even so, I did not dare to move, for +fear that he might be foxing. About an hour passed, during which he +moved, coughed, expectorated, and had other signs of conscious +animation, much to my disgust, until at last I thought the snoring +sounded too genuine to be shammed, so I crept towards him and whispered +in his ear that I thought I heard sounds of movement. But his snoring +was rhythmic and swinish, so I gathered up my saddle and gear and stole +over to my horse, which was picketed some yards off, and proceeded to +saddle him up. In doing so, my stirrups somehow clashed and thought it +was all up, for what a fool I should look if he woke and discovered me. +But it was all right: the music continued. + +I led the horse for some little distance, then mounting, I rode him down +alongside the fence for about a mile until I came to a fresh gap in it. + +Horror! Even though it was but what my suspicions had depicted, the +realisation came as a shock to me. "The--! The--!" To repeat my +expressions would edify no one. + +Guided by the signal-lights at the station, I moved along at a smart +trot and soon recognised the quick tramping of animals ahead. Then I +drew back, and as the day was just breaking, I drew round to the west +side of the cavalcade, so that I might see without being seen. Yes, sure +enough, there were six military chacots outlined against the great sky +and a troop of animals ahead of them. + +I halted to let them get well away from me, and then, with rage and +hatred in my heart, swearing vengeance all the while, I galloped as hard +as ever I could to the estancia, to impatiently await the uprising of my +boss. + +"We must wire, or one of us must go to the Governor in Santa Fé at +once," I urged. But what was my disgust to be met with but a quiet smile +of amusement! + +"Not if I know it," said he. "Why, good God, man, do you want to have +all our throats cut? This man is a personal friend of the Governor's, +and what satisfaction do you think we are likely to get out of that?" + +"Then let us go to the Consul, the British Minister, or even to the +President of the Republic?" + +A quiet smile with a negatory shake of the head was the only answer. + +A fortnight later I sought him in his private sitting-room and found the +Chief of Police sitting in an easy-chair. + +"Ha! ha! ha! Don Ernesto. So you caught us, did you? Well, it was worth +the fun. I never laughed so much in all my life as when I awoke that +morning and found that you had given me the slip!" + + + + +A VISIT TO THE NORTHERN CHACO. + + +After three years on an estancia in the vast monotonous, treeless, but +most fertile plains of the Central Argentine, under scorching sun, +driving rains, and biting wind, one feels that one would like to see a +river sometimes, animal life and more congenial surroundings; and so I +determined to visit the Northern Chaco, that enormous tract of land +which lies North of Santa Fé and stretches right away for many hundreds +of miles to North, East, and West. + +Leaving Rosario by the night express, one crosses the great, slightly +undulating plains, probably among the richest in the world for the +growth of wheat, linseed, and maize, reaching Santa Fé early the +following morning. This town, the capital and Government centre of the +province, is rather an uninteresting place; chiefly noticeable in it are +the great number of fine churches and the magnificent sawmills owned by +a large French company. Santa Fé is supposed to be one of the most +religious centres in the Republic. More than once it has almost been +washed away in an eddy of the giant Parana in flood, the water rising +four feet in the houses on the highest level in the town. + +After spending a day of sight-seeing in Santa Fé, we embarked at +nightfall for Vera, the headquarters of the Santa Fé Land Company's wood +department, arriving there in the early morning. The land around here +from the train appears to be a dry, salty country, devoid of herbage, +and only valuable on account of the excellent forest trees and timber. + +Our morning meal was taken in the station waiting-room (the only +restaurant in the town), and consisted of cold coffee and what the +Argentine understands by boiled eggs, which have in reality been in +boiling water half a minute, and which, in order to eat, one has to tip +into a wine-glass and beat up with a fork, adding pepper and salt, etc. +This is the general way of eating eggs in South America; an egg cup is +one of the few things one cannot get in the country without going to an +English store in Buenos Aires. + +Leaving Vera at 8 a.m. the train goes at a snail's pace along the branch +line to Reconquista, covering the distance of about thirty leagues in +five hours. Arriving there in the sweltering midday heat, we were met by +an English friend and his capataz, the latter dressed in his enormous +slouch hat, deerskin apron, and silver spurs weighing probably a full +kilo. + +One cannot help noticing at once the different type of natives; from the +slow, slouching, don't-care kind of men, which one sees in Cordoba and +Southern Santa Fé, to the quick, straight, hawk-eyed half-Indian +Chaquenos. + +Reconquista on a hot summer's day is one of the dirtiest places on this +earth, which is saying a good deal. One drives through streets two feet +deep in light sandy dust, which hangs in clouds all over the town. There +is an excellent hotel in the centre of the town, built on typical +Spanish plans with fine large open patios, which are filled with +splendid tropical plants and ferns. Having washed off the dust of three +days' travel from our weary persons, and having changed into more +suitable travelling gear, we sat down to an excellent spread. + +In the cool of the evening we made a tour of the town, being most +interested in the cigar factories, where we bought excellent smokes for +$2 a hundred, all hand-made from pure tobacco leaf by the brown-hued +lasses of Reconquista. + +The rest of the evening we spent in unpacking our native saddles, and +preparing everything for our long horseback journey--not having +forgotten to see that our tropilla of fifteen grey ponies were fit and +ready to make an early start next morning. + +Three a.m. next morning found us out in the "corrales" having our ponies +allotted to us by the capataz--we found the tropilla on "ronda"--that +is, in a corner with a lasso tied across in front of them, the height of +their chests, and all facing outwards. This is the most general way of +teaching horses to stand in the Chaco, as, if taught to stand singly, +they would fall too easy a prey to the Indians and gauchos. In order to +saddle these ponies we had to "manear" them, that is, tie their forelegs +together, for without this they refused to let us put the blankets on +their backs. + +All being ready, we started off, four of us, two in front and two +behind, with eleven loose ponies between us. By this time the sky was +beginning to grow light, and evidently the fresh morning air had +disagreed with my friend T.'s horse, which suddenly cleared down a side +street with his head between his forelegs and his back arched like the +bend in an archer's bow. + +After some seconds of this amusing sight T. managed to get the pony's +head up and came along again, looking very warm and beaming; his +pink-nosed pony quite satisfied that he would have to carry more than +his own weight for some distance further. + +Leaving Reconquista on the north we crossed, over an old railway +embankment, a large stretch of low country, through which a small stream +glided with winding course, and jogging along league after league we +gradually got into more interesting country: little clumps of trees with +very thick undergrowth, clinging creepers, bright-coloured flowers, and +gorgeously plumaged birds. + +All along the sides of the roads were little farms, apparently +uncultivated, except for small patches of wonderfully grown maize and +browning linseed. Practically all these farms are owned by Swiss and +German peasants, each one with his small herd of cows and working +bullocks. + +We changed our ponies every three or four leagues, always going at the +same jog-trot, stopping occasionally at a wayside inn to wet our parched +throats with fresh well water (with a drop of caña in it to kill the +microbes), and smoking hard all the time to keep off the swarms of +mosquitoes. + +After travelling ten leagues or so we began to leave these habitations +behind us, and got into wilder country with no fences, only long +stretches of undulating land, dotted with patches of splendid-looking +trees and enticing shade. + +The road occasionally crossed small streams, which gradually became more +tropical looking, until we came to quite a large river, two or three +hundred metres wide, looking beautifully peaceful and oily. Standing +above on the bank, in the shade of some magnificent quebracho trees, we +looked down upon this lazy stretch of perfect scenery, when suddenly +there was a slight disturbance in the water and a small black dot +appeared on the top of the water. The capataz at once pulled out his +revolver, all of us doing likewise, only to have to put them back again, +as the dot had disappeared as quickly as it came. This was the first +sign of wild animal life we saw, the "jacaré" or alligator. In the more +civilised parts of the Chaco, these animals, as well as the carpincho or +water-hog, are getting quite rare, and having been so much shot at and +worried they need the most careful stalking. + +As we got further away, we came upon many more of these streams, all +looking much the same; some had bridges over them made of quebracho +logs, laid endways on and covered with earth, very dangerous to cross +after wet weather or floods, especially at night, as they are generally +full of holes where the earth has fallen in. + +At 10 a.m. each day we unsaddled for lunch, which was generally composed +of "charque" or salted beef, biscuits, and coffee. The first night we +slept at the last habitation which we saw, a small wayside inn. Arriving +there late in the evening, we had the greatest difficulty in obtaining +entrance on account of the chorus of barking, snapping dogs, and on +account of the innkeeper's fear of drunken gauchos. + +Another early start on the second day saw us well on our journey by +siésta time, which we spent on the edge of a very fine forest. The +afternoon was very hot, and we did not start off again until 4 o'clock. +During the evening we swam across a small river which we found +overflowing its banks on account of the local rains, and, as darkness +fell, we found it almost impossible to see our way on account of the +fireflies, which made such a glare in front of us that the slight track +which we had been following was almost invisible. It was a very dark +night, and once or twice we felt rain. We had to go very slowly, so that +we should not miss the track. Thus we trotted on in Indian file, each of +us now leading spare horses, in silence, except when one of us asked how +many leagues it was to the estancia, only to jog on again for what +seemed two or three hours, until almost midnight. With a cheerful yell +we suddenly came on a barbed wire fence, and after hunting about for a +time, a wire gate. + +Immediately tongues seemed to be mechanically loosened and the +conversation flowed freely, discussing the ride, horses, coming +stiffness, and all the things that one has to talk about after two and +a-half days in the saddle. On reaching the estancia about 2 a.m., none +of us needed much bed, and throwing our things down on the grass +outside, we soon were dreaming of alligators, broken bridges, swimming +rivers, etc. + +About 10 o'clock the next morning I awoke to find myself on a most neat +little estancia high up on a hill, overlooking, across a slight valley, +magnificent forests where one could see the glint of running water. + +The house was brick floored and had four very nice rooms, which had been +colour-washed by my friends with excellent success. The ceilings at once +attracted attention, being of a deep-coloured black wood, well oiled and +seasoned. "Timbo" it is called, and is the best carving and furniture +wood in the country. + +Out in the garden were oranges, lemons, citrons, pomegranates, limes, +and all kinds of luxurious fruits and vegetables. In a small fenced +paddock at the end of the garden, were sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, cotton, +tobacco, and some magnificent maize. + +The men's huts were made of mud over a cane network, and the roofs were +made of split palm trees, hollowed out and made in the form of a large +~~~~~~~ the palms being placed concavely and convexly alternately, +making fine drainage for the heavy rains. The whole place was surrounded +by a ring of fine chaco paraiso trees and "ombu." The horse corrals were +all _palo a pique_, that is, made of solid posts, stuck in close +together side by side, and about two metres high, with no wire. + +The camp was more or less on the real banks of the Parana, sloping away +to the river four leagues away, and forming one of the most fertile +spots in the Republic. This low-lying land is the finest and cheapest +grazing in the north, but it is unreliable because it is quite inundated +in time of floods, when the cattle have to be withdrawn to higher camp. + +During various excursions on the following days we saw tracks of +"tigers" (leopard) and "lions" (puma); the kill of the latter, a small +gazelle buck, "guasuncho," we found neatly covered up with grass and +leaves, and easily distinguishable from the tiger's kill, which is +always left uncovered. A very fine tiger's skin was brought in one +night, measuring 1.84 metres from the tip of the nose to the root of the +tail, and 1.56 metres across. The man had suddenly come across it while +on foot in the monte, and after wounding it with his Winchester had run +it down with his dogs and killed it. + +One evening we caught sight of a tapi (tapir) coming down to drink, but +were unable to shoot on account of the bad light. Each day we saw many +wild pigs ("chancho moro") and various kinds of wild cats, including the +splendid "gato once" or ounce cat, whose skin is one of the finest, and +only to be compared with the "lobo" or golden otter, which has a most +magnificent fluffy pelt with a golden tint on the tips. The latter is +unfortunately getting very rare now. + +The great wolf or "aguaras" is still common, and is a very stately +beast, as he slopes along with his hind-quarters well under him, with +pricked ears and shaggy black mane. + +The forests here are mostly in long strips and clumps, with excellent +pasture land between them; and they contain, among other commoner chaco +trees, lance wood, four crowns, and tala. Amongst the strange trees +there is one enormous broad-leafed tree called "guapoij," which has long +creeping roots, which cling on to neighbouring trees and gradually pull +them down and absorb all their goodness, killing them, and in some +marvellous way apparently eating them up. One finds occasionally one of +these trees embracing another bigger than itself, and gradually rooting +it out of the ground. + +On all low ground one generally finds "Zeibos"--a tree with very soft +wood and very pretty branches of scarlet flowers. + +The wild apricot or "ijguajay" grows everywhere, and looks a very +tempting fruit, fatal, however, to most Europeans, as it is a very +powerful purge. The Indian children eat the fruit with joy, and it +apparently has no bad effect on them. + +The forests are full of all kinds of animals, and, in addition to those +already mentioned, there are red deer, black and brown monkeys, and +bear, and the ring-tailed coons, which latter make noises like the +grunting of pigs. + +Of ground game there are foxes, tattoo or mulita, armadillo, and +ostriches. + +Amongst the birds the most common are various kinds of hawks, including +some very much like the great bustard, English brown buzzard, and osprey +falcon, and two or three kinds of parrots and cockatoos, the green +parrots being the curse to agriculturists, eating all the maize, as the +locusts do in the South. + +There are many different kinds of "carpinteros" or woodpeckers, most of +them having most wonderful plumage of brown, green, scarlet, blue, and +yellow. + +A strange bird which is not often seen is the "tucan," a small black +bird, with a beak almost as big as his body, and of a splendid orange +colour with a scarlet tip; he is a top-heavy looking little chap when +seen seated on an orange tree, his favourite haunt. + +Amongst table birds there are grey pheasants, martinetta, and +partridges. Of wild fowl, there are enormous varieties, including the +"pato real" or great tree duck, whistling mallard, various kinds of teal +and shovellers, widgeon, muscony and hooded duck, black-headed geese, +grey geese, and swans. Amongst water-birds are the black, grey, and +white "garza" or heron. The latter are especially valuable on account of +the splendid feathers on the back of their necks. Of the smaller birds +there is the gallinetta, a kind of landrail, the curse of hunters +shooting wild duck, their wretched screech warning every bird in the +district. The beautifully coloured and almost transparently winged +golden moorhen covers every stretch of water inland, and the "chaja" or +wild turkey, one of the most useless birds in the Chaco, and quite +uneatable, sends forth his dismal cry "chaja." + +The kingfishers are, perhaps, the most noticeable of all the river +birds, and are of all sizes, from the small European variety to one +almost ten times their size. Gorgeously plumaged, they skim, like +flashes of light, over the water, which is full of all kinds of fish +including "Dorado," a splendid fighting fish, excellent eating, which +can be caught with rod or fly, and goes up to 10 kilos in weight; +"Suravi," a great mud fish, which is seen sometimes basking out of +water, weighing up to 50 kilos, with enormous head, and good eating; +"Savala," the mud-eating cruiser, which one sees nearly always with its +tail out of water, and which makes excellent revolver shooting; +"Palmieta," the curse of the Chaco streams and rivers, making bathing +unadvisable on account of its hostile assaults on the extremities of all +foreign bodies; and the "rallo," or sun fish, a large flat fish with a +long tail. + +Thus was spent a week of happy days of excursions and explorations, +where sometimes we had to walk through great distances of undergrowth +and the everywhere-abundant prickly cactus, cutting our way with large +cavalry swords, always with our eyes skinned to catch sight of some +strange bird, beast, or flower. Sometimes we waded for miles through +swamps, which, in some places, abound with enormous water snakes up to 6 +metres long. + +We put up all kinds of water-fowl, as we struggled on, splashing +through rivers, clambering up and skeltering down slippery banks, +reaching home tired and weary every night to recount all the day's +doings, sitting out in the patio in the cool evening, eaten up by +mosquitoes. + +So ended my holiday, with hurried packing, much toast-drinking, and a +final little farewell dance to the accompaniment of guitar, gramophone, +mouth-organ, and accordion. The journey south was of no great interest, +half on horseback, half in "galera," or public mail coach, with, as +fellow passengers, a German traveller, a curé (most jovial of beings, +who had brought enough food with him to feed a whole regiment), a head +of police and his men, and two coach boys. + +The coach, with five young horses tied in abreast, went bumping and +jolting along hour after hour, until we came to a big river, +unfortunately in flood. The horses were unhitched, tied together and +swum across; a boat coming from some unseen corner, took passengers and +luggage across, leaving the coach itself alone, with a long wire tied to +the end of the pole. The horses were fastened to the end of this wire on +the other side of the river, and then, with a whoop and a cheer, the +coach tumbled head-over-heels into the raging flood, twisting and +turning in all ways, first one side up and then the other, until at last +it reached the near bank. And so we travelled on, back to civilisation; +a tiring journey in dust and heat by rail, bringing us home to the same +old flat, treeless, priceless plains of the Central Argentine, to dream +for many days of birds, fishes, animals, flowers, trees, good friends, +and the fine natives of the Northern Chaco. + + + + +WORK IN THE WOODS. + + + + +WORK IN THE WOODS. + + +The worker in the forests is of necessity an early riser, the nature of +his task requiring that he should be up betimes. His preparations for +breakfast are simple, and he is ready to start out after half an hour +spent in imbibing a few matés full of yerba infusion. The cartmen tie in +their bullocks, kept overnight in a corral, and drive off to bring in +wood prepared by the axemen, the bullock-herd takes his charges to +pasture and the men's employer mounts his horse to visit the camp of his +axemen, or goes to the store to fetch meat and provisions. The axemen +generally live in tents or temporary shelters, convenient to their work, +and some distance from the contractor's rancho. They have to work hard, +stripped to the waist in summer; they fell the trees, and either square +the logs for baulks and sleepers, or cut the bark and outside layer of +white wood off to make logs for export, working by moonlight when the +heat of the day is excessive. Their food consists of biscuits, called +Galleta, dried to the consistency of flint; these they soften in soup +made from fresh meat or dried "Charki." To this soup is added rice, +maize, or "Fido's," which is coarse macaroni. + +The favourite roast, called the "Asado," is made from ribs of beef +impaled on a stick and placed near the fire till sufficiently cooked. +This delicacy, usually as hard as nails, is enjoyed by the men, who cut +off portions, which they hold in their teeth, while, with a jack-knife, +mouthfuls are sawn off close to the nose, at the risk of shortening that +organ. Water is drunk, or coffee sweetened liberally with moist sugar. +This coffee is made in the country, chiefly from beans or maize, with a +large percentage of chicory to give it body. + +It is picturesque to see a long string of carts enter a deposit to the +sound of pistol cracks from long whips, and to watch the cartmen unload +the heavy logs. + +A cartman will load his cart with logs of a ton and upwards, each with +the aid of his team of bullocks, placing the chains so that the animals, +at the desired moment, by advancing a short distance, roll the log from +the ground on to the cart. In the case of very heavy logs the cart is +placed upside down on the log, which is then bound to it, and the +bullocks pull the whole thing over. The distances which have to be +covered by these carts are considerable, fifteen miles in the day is not +unusual, changing bullocks once en route, but a great deal depends on +the roads being dry, as in wet weather the wheels sink up to the hubs in +the mud and the roads are soon dotted here and there with loads +abandoned till better conditions enable them to be reloaded and +delivered at a depository. + +These cartmen are hardy fellows and work wet to the skin, covered with +mud up to their knees, or, again, hidden in the dust from the roads, +which envelopes the moving carts in a choking cloud. + +It is little to be wondered at if the axemen and cartmen, when pay day +arrives, go in for a spree, which for them usually takes the form of +gambling, enlivened by dancing and drinking till daylight. + +The result of sojourning in the woods does not, as might be expected, +have the effect of making these men unsociable, and they embrace every +opportunity of attending a race meeting or dance. When the men are +excited by drink quarrels are frequent, and the police search them for +arms before admitting them to a Re-union. + +Arms are carried ostensibly as a precaution against meeting with +Indians and bad characters in the lonely recesses of the forest, and the +men like to carry a knife and a good revolver, or, better still, a +Winchester, to enable them to get a shot at any wild animal they may +come across, the skins of these being much prized. They take a pleasure +in presenting a visitor with a puma skin or other trophy of the chase. + +Among these people one looks for, and finds, the primitive idea of +hospitality, an unaffected welcome and willingness to give of the best +they have. Here are men independent by virtue of their labour, which +gives them sufficient for their daily wants. They have no thought for +the morrow or what will be their lot when too feeble to work. + +The axemen, who are natives of Italy and Austria, are very good workmen, +but compare unfavourably with natives of the country, being extremely +dirty in their persons, to such a degree that it is a disagreeable +experience to have to interview them in an office, whereas the Argentine +native puts on his best apparel when he goes to an estancia. + +The forest workers are nomads, and, as the woods get cut out, move on to +fresh camping grounds, leaving the woods to revert to their former +solitude, a haunt for the wild animals, who creep back once silence has +returned. + + + + +CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS. + + + + +CACHAPÉS, AND OTHER THINGS. + + +To a man coming from the Southern Camps to the forest belt of Santa Fé, +the cachapé must appeal as something peculiar to the district, and most +essentially local. He has had a surfeit of carts with two wheels, each +12 feet high, and dragged by anything from sixteen to twenty-eight +horses; Russian carts, like Thames punts on four wheels, no longer amuse +him, while American spring carts are much too European to warrant +unslinging the Kodak. But the cachapé--here is something not to be +lightly passed over. Lying idle it may not strike him at first sight as +a cart, but rather as a remnant of some revolution, when, tired of +waging light operatic war, the army disbanded, leaving their +gun-carriages to serve more peaceful purposes. + +Two pairs of short, squat, enormously powerful wheels; between, and +joining them, a roughly hewn pole and various chains in an apparently +hopeless tangle. Yet see them in work--every niche doing its work, every +chain taking ten per cent, more strain than it was ever intended to +take, creaking, groaning, crashing into holes, crawling laboriously over +snaps and trunks to fall again with its load of four tons with a +jerking, swaying, and straining as though struggling to free itself from +its load, and you recognise the _raison d'être_ of the queer little +cart. + +The capaché is not without its humorous moments. Supposing the cartmen +find a log too heavy to load in the ordinary way; they do not return and +inform the boss that the log must be hoisted by mechanical means or +propose high-priced cranes. Seeing that obviously they can't put the log +on the cart, they accept the alternative and put the cart on the log, +chain it on securely, then haul everything right side up again with the +bullocks and proceed to the unloading station. Once there, it might be +supposed that they would tumble the cart over again, but here the +intelligent foreigner is misled. The correct proceeding now is for the +cartmen to lie on their backs and push with their feet, after the manner +of the gentlemen in music halls, who, reclining on sawed-off sofas, +twiddle gold-spangled spheres with their toes; only our cartmen lie in +water and mud and the gold-spangled sphere is changed for a three-ton +log. The force the men can exert in this position is little short of +marvellous. Out one crawls, reviews the situation, then back again +under, a creak, a combined push, and over the wheels comes the log, +throwing up the mud and water for 50 feet around. Then back they go +again for another load six miles through the forest. Wet through, their +clothes hanging in ribbons from shoulders and belt, one day's mud caking +on another's, and with a long sword stuck through their belt in front, +they present a figure comical enough were it not that one knew the other +side of the picture. + +Reeking with inherited consumption, they live the one life which is +certain to kill them before they are forty. Wet through and chilled, +they are called upon again and again to suddenly exert enormous +strength, since no man can desert his cart. He must "get there." He must +get out of his trouble. He eats largely when and how he can, and when he +has saved any money the merry "Taba" bone charms it from him in a way +too universal perhaps to call for any remark. Sometimes he finishes his +carting days through too decided opinions as to the other man's +integrity in playing "Taba"; sometimes on his canvas bed in a hut of mud +and branches, his browny yellow face and sunken eyes asking no pity, +betraying no emotion; in either case he is rarely over thirty-five and +often leaves a wife and children. + +I say "wife and children," since it sounds the usual thing; but, as a +matter of strict fact, the ceremony of getting married is deprecated +among them, as it signifies "Putting on side," and is only resorted to +when they are in a village and there is a chance that the presents that +are given will more than compensate the tremendous expense they have to +go to. Speaking to a gentleman of this kidney, I was informed that when +the cross-eyed blacksmith Strike got married, it cost him three dollars +and a-half (say 5s.) in fire crackers alone, and my informant went on to +say that the only case he knew of where marriage had been really +successful was that of the fair-haired carpenter, who was married and +asked all the bosses on the place, who each gave something, with which +he was able to buy a sewing machine for the eldest girl, then aged six. + +But, mark you, lest you should judge them lightly, remember that their +unwritten pact is just as binding to them as our formal marriage tie is +to us, and that in their way they are probably better husbands and +fathers than your Balham clerk. In their young days they may chop and +change, which changes are generally marked by little iron crosses in the +woods, but, once they have settled down, desertion is far rarer than in +civilised countries. I have seen a native workman with his shoulder +blade in his arm-pit, his face cut to ribbons, and with pieces of +casting sticking to his back through the carrying away of a crane, cavil +against the idea of being taken into the township where the doctor was, +lest his old woman, unused to a town life, should find the surroundings +uncongenial. This in a broken, muttered whisper, twelve hours after the +accident had happened, during which time every new arrival had been +called upon to witness the peculiar nature of his injuries. + +Much has been said about the terrible wickedness of the lower-class +native, his gambling, his immorality, his almost fanatical desire to +murder everyone he sees; and for complete and detailed lists of crimes +and monstrosities appeal to any newcomer, who will be delighted to hold +forth on the subject; but when one has lived with them and worked with +them under varying conditions, and has suffered in some degree what they +suffer, one hesitates to condemn them offhand. + +Blackguards they are--but manly, humorous blackguards. Immoral, one must +confess them to be, according to our lights, but even in England "Custom +from time immemorial" is held as law. + +The vast majority will steal raw hide gear as a cat steals fish, but +will not touch your money, much as in a community of young men property +is common to all with the same exception. They will lie if scared, or +rather will substitute for the truth something they think you would like +to hear, and they will do as little work as you will let them. + +But, have a bad case of sickness in the house and ask a man to go out at +midnight with the carriage to get the doctor, or to go on horseback on +his own horse twenty miles for medicine, and he goes as quietly and +pleasantly as though he were going about the most commonplace work. He +expects no tip, no extra wage, nor is he lauded as a hero. He may have +come down, horse and all, in the dark, but is happy if he has not +smashed the bottle of medicine, and he resumes his work on return, just +as if he hadn't been up all night riding at a hard canter over broken +ground full of holes and snags. + +No, he is by no means an ideal worker, neither is he half so bad as he's +painted, and I'd rather meet him in the next world than lots of men who +boss him in this. + + + + +MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN. + + + +MY FRIEND THE AXEMAN. + + +Eighty square leagues of dense forest. One is inclined to feel a trifle +small and overcome when this fraction of Mother Earth is put into one's +hands (metaphorically), with orders to know all about it and to be able +to answer all questions as to what is going on in it. + +The work is like most other occupations: not quite so romantic as it +sounds at first, but as interesting as one cares to make it. + +One's main employment can best be illustrated by a leaf out of a mental +diary. + +Fulano de Tal, axeman, wants credit for provisions at the almacen or +general store--Has he sufficient wood cut to warrant it? It is the +Mayor-domo's business to find out. + +With this end in view, he rides along "The Mangy" watercourse till he +comes to the lowland of "The Blind Cow." The barking of half a dozen +mongrel curs leads him into the edge of the forest, and he comes upon +the residence of Fulano de Tal. The man has perhaps recently moved to +this spot, and has not had time or energy to build himself a "rancho," +and therefore the homestead consists of about four yards of canvas +stretched across the branch of a tree like the roof of a tent. + +Beneath this is a "New Home" sewing machine, a Brummagem bedstead, and a +small trunk, made burglar-proof by innumerable bands and fastenings of +bright tin, or even gilt wall-paper. Scattered around are the little +Fulanos, in costumes varying from nothing to very little. + +Their mother ceases her cooking operations, wipes her hands on the +nearest child's head, and invites the visitor to dismount. + +He answers that he is looking for her husband, and she directs him with +a sweep of the hand which covers a quadrant of the compass and includes +several square leagues of thick forest. Taking a likely track, however, +he soon hears the ring of axe-strokes, and finds his man patiently +chipping away at a felled tree, which is rapidly taking the form of a +baulk, with the sides as smooth as if sawn. + +His horse is tied up near, and he takes the Mayor-domo through his +"corte," showing him the wood prepared for the carters. Give him a +chance and he will count every log twice (most likely he has already +plastered mud over the marks which show the rotten patch in the wood, +and is wondering whether he has cleared the black sufficiently off a +piece of "campana" to persuade a reasonable man that it is really fresh +wood). + +It is part of the inspector's stock in trade to know these and a myriad +other tricks, too numerous to take separately. + +The typical axeman in the Santa Fé Chaco is more genuinely "childlike" +than, and quite as "bland" as, the famous Celestial. He never quite +grows up; he will spend his last dollar on a mouth-organ when he is +forty, and give a wild war-whoop of delight as a stack of newly piled +sleepers falls crashing to the ground. + +He loves sweets and the bright clothes which he wears with childish +dignity on feast-days and holidays. + +His _amour propre_ is tremendous, and influences his code of honour to a +great extent. The first ten commandments he will break most cheerfully, +but the eleventh--"Thou shalt not be found out"--he respects to the best +of his power. + +Stealing, for instance, he regards as a pastime, but call him a thief +and you must be prepared for trouble. A perfect instance of this can be +quoted in the case of an estanciero who found a peon wearing one of his +shirts. + +[Illustration: _Square Quebracho Logs worked by the Axeman, showing +Resin oozing therefrom._] + +"You are wearing my shirt," said the master. "No, Señor; I bought it in +the store." "But you stole it from me," insisted the estanciero, +pointing to the tab at the front, where his name was written in marking +ink; "there is my name on it." + +The man, being quite illiterate, had not reckoned on such damning +evidence, but he recovered himself and replied with dignity: "Very well, +Señor; if it is yours, take it; _but don't call me a thief_." + +Honesty is with them, admittedly, a matter of degree. A man will always +say if questioned about some small deficiency, "Do you think I would +swindle you for a matter of two dollars?" or "Do you think I would risk +my credit with the Company for the sake of _one_ calf?" To be honest in +a case where a larger profit is involved is a height of integrity to +which he does not even pretend. "I am going to be frank with you"--that +is an expression which puts the wise man on his guard, for it is +generally followed by a cascade of lies. + +Business must be done on a completely different basis to that which +obtains in England. To return to our friend Fulano, for instance: he +wishes perhaps to ask for an increase of fifty cents per ton on his +wood, and introduces the subject by a short conversation about the +points of his horse, passing on to the bad state of the bullocks and +enlarging on the chance of a rainy winter. You have just decided that he +has nothing more to say and are preparing to leave him, when he makes +his request with as much circumlocution as possible. To have come +straight to the point would have been contrary to all his ideas of +correct procedure. + +I have heard two natives make one another's acquaintance with a bout of +verbal sparring which an Englishman would obviate by a single sentence, +such as "Good morning; Mr. Brown, I believe?" "Yes," the other would +answer, and the business would be entered upon immediately. + +The Spanish blood, however, calls for some such dialogue as the +following, which is taken from real life. + +_A._--"Good day." + +_B._--"Good day." + +_A._--"How are you, Señor?" + +_B._--"Very well, thank you, Señor; how are you?" + +_A._--"Very well, thank you." + +_B._--"I am glad." + +_A._--"Equally." + +_B._--"Don't mention it." + +_A._--"I am speaking to Mr. Juan Sosa?" + +_B._--"At your service." + +_A._--"At yours." + +_B._--"Equally." + +_A._--"It gives me great pleasure to know you." + +_B._--"Equally." + +They are flowery always, whether in greeting, praise, commendation, or +in denunciation. + +In illustration of the last point, I once heard a cartman give vent to a +quite Olympic challenge. + +His cart had stuck in a deep rut up to the axles, and he commenced +operations by addressing his bullocks with tender words and soft names +swiftly followed by lurid curses. This proving useless, he invoked +higher powers, and called on his pet saints by name--"Help me, San +Pedro, San Geronimo, Santa Lucia, San Juan." Still no result:-- + +Then his patience failed entirely--"If you won't help me, San Pedro," he +shouted, "come down and I'll fight you;" "Come down, San Juan, and I'll +take you both on together." + +Still no reply. + +Taking his hat off he placed it on the ground, made the motion of +clawing his guardians from the skies and placing them in his hat. + +"Stay there, San Geronimo; Stay there, San Juan; Stay there, San Marco." + +When his hat was full enough for his satisfaction he leapt into the air, +came down on it with both feet, and continued to dance on it for about +three minutes. + +Thus, for a real or imagined slight, the streak of black blood will show +up and convert a friend into a relentless enemy. + +It is not surprising when one considers the lack of civilising +influences which ought to be exerted from the top downwards, but which +have no root in the highest power they know, which is the arm of the +law. It might be interesting to note a few proofs of the corruption +which exists among those who wield the local weapons of justice--among +the commissaries, police, and justices of the peace. + +The Chief of Police of----, for instance, a town of only about 7,000 +inhabitants, refused £2,000 a year for the local gambling rights. + +Again, a gardener, whom I knew, was put in jail for being drunk and +disorderly. On going to the place some time later I found the man still +imprisoned. "Why," I asked, "for such a small offence"? "We found," was +the answer, "that when sober he was such a good workman that we could +not spare him from the job of cleaning the stables." + +On the other hand, a friend of mine was dissatisfied with the policeman +he had, and sent the sergeant into the township to exchange him for +another. The man returned with a particularly villainous-looking +specimen, and when asked where he had got him, explained that the Chief +of Police had told him to look among the prisoners for a suitable man, +give him a uniform and take him. + +"I thought this was the best of them; but they all wanted to come," he +concluded ingenuously. + +Another commissary in the north of this country flattered himself on his +revolver-shooting, and used to perform the feat of shooting the hat off +a man's head without hurting him. He was in the local bar one day when a +peon entered with a brand new white hat; it was an opportunity not to be +missed. Crack--and the man fell with a bullet through his temple instead +of his hat. + +Did the Comisário stand stricken with remorse, or burst into +self-reproach? No. He moved the body with the toe of his boot and +remarked: "Carramba, I am getting a very poor shot nowadays." + +A story which was told me in the province of Rio Negro, and which was +well vouched for, contained serio-comic elements of which I believe the +perpetrator, whom I knew personally, quite capable. + +An old man who owned a considerable quantity of land, died intestate. A +man who lived with him, Garcia by name, had no idea of letting the +property go to distant unknown relations, and concocted the following +plot (obviously with the connivance of the neighbouring Justice of the +Peace, who was a friend of his). + +The law allows that a sane man "in articulo mortis," and past the power +of speech, may make statements by signs: so when the Justice was +summoned to the house, Garcia told him that the man was not yet dead, +and wished to make his will. + +Garcia seated himself at the foot of the bed, while the Justice at the +side addressed questions to the deceased on the following lines:-- + +"Do you wish me to record your last will and testament?" + +The corpse nodded. + +"Do you wish your property to pass into your cousins' hands?" + +The head moved from side to side. + +"Do you intend to make Garcia your sole legatee?" + +The deceased nodded several times. + +Two witnesses were brought, and the business was settled with +commendable promptitude. + +I think it was Garcia himself who explained, some time afterwards, that +as the dead man wore a full beard and whiskers, it was easy enough to +hide the strings passing from his ears and chin to the foot of the bed +under the coverings. + +In this connection I have since heard that one of the legal ceremonies +in a coroner's inquest in Central America is to solemnly ask the +deceased who killed him. + +To return to the point, however; if such things exist among those in the +highest positions of trust it is not surprising to find wholesale +chicanery among the lower orders; that they realise their shortcomings +is evidenced by the fact that if they wish to impress you with the truth +of a statement, they add "palabra de Ingles," i.e., "on the word of an +Englishman." + +Their Indian descent is answerable for a great deal, the white and black +blood being so mixed that it is almost impossible to note the dividing +line. Their dusky ancestors were blessed with an extremely limited +intelligence, only being able to count up to four. The following +incidents were related to me by an old estanciero. He once saw a +trainload of Indian prisoners who had had oranges given them throwing +the skins against the windows and showing great surprise when they fell +inside. + +In another instance a woman came with her daughter to place her in +domestic service at the estancia, and as the mother did all the talking, +the estanciero's wife asked if the daughter could speak Spanish. + +"Oh, yes," answered the mother, "but she is barefoot, and would not +presume to talk Spanish unless she had shoes on." + +This same girl at first insisted on turning up the carpet whenever she +entered a room and walking along the boards at the side. + +I fear that I have given a black character to the people I work among, +but there are lights as well as shades, and I have had many a weary +hour's ride wiled away by the philosophy and anecdotes of some peon or +small contractor, without mentioning the enjoyment of that hospitality +which is a characteristic of the nation. + +Beside a camp fire, under the stars, while the maté pot passes from hand +to hand, or when huddled under a horse cloth with the rain dousing the +last embers, I have found the Correntino, or Santa Fecino, a cheery and +uncomplaining companion, who compares well with the recently arrived +Englishman, who, under the same circumstances, is generally sleepy or +bad tempered. + +Treat him well and he will treat you well, but if it is necessary to +chasten him for his soul's good, keep your hand a little nearer to your +revolver than his is to his knife. + +DUST AND OTHER STORMS. + + + + + +DUST AND OTHER STORMS. + + +Life in South America has many and varied experiences, though not so +uncomfortably exciting perhaps to-day as they were, when more than three +years seldom passed without a revolution of some kind, either national +or provincial. The year 1893 was marked by two revolutions in Rosario, +the first provincial and the second national, with perhaps little more +than two months between them. It sounds terribly alarming to hear that a +revolution has broken out, and pictures of the French Revolution +immediately rise before one, but, fortunately, those of South American +cities are not of that calibre; reports and rumours fly about of the +terrible things that are going to be done, but these generally end in +rumour, and after a few persons, those who have nothing to do with the +movement, have been killed, probably by soldiers letting off their +rifles up some street just on the chance of hitting something (often +that at which they are _not_ aiming), the revolution fizzles out very +quickly. + +In the second revolution of 1893 great excitement was caused in Rosario +by a revolutionary gunboat being pursued by a Government boat and a +naval battle (!) being fought on the river outside Rosario. These two +boats blazed away at each other till the revolutionary gunboat was +reduced to a wreck; the Government boat then threatened to turn its guns +on Rosario unless the revolutionists capitulated. The town was given +twenty-four hours to decide, and, after various disasters, including a +terrible battle, had been threatened, as usual the revolution came to a +sudden end, on this particular occasion owing to the revolutionist +leader, D. Alem, committing suicide. That same year, 1893, +distinguished itself by drawing to a close with three of the most +terrible dust storms ever seen in a country that, after any lengthened +period of dry weather, suffers from dust storms of a greater or lesser +degree. The first of these occurred early in December, after many months +of drought, on a brilliantly sunny afternoon. Standing at the front door +of a house at Fisherton, a suburb about six miles from Rosario, we +noticed right down in the S.W., on the horizon, great banks of +grey-looking clouds, which, to our surprise, seemed to be rolling +rapidly up the sky towards us. They had a most alarming appearance, for +these masses of grey cloud approaching so rapidly seemed to portend a +storm of terrible force. In less than twenty minutes from the time we +first saw the clouds the afternoon had changed from brilliant sunshine +to pitchy darkness. So rapidly had the darkness come on us that no one +was prepared, and no matches or lights were forthcoming; so there we +stood in a room in absolute darkness, no glimmer of light even revealing +where the windows were situated in the room. Though all doors and +windows were closely shut, we could feel the dust entering in clouds +through the cracks, making it quite unpleasant breathing. When the storm +caught us we had to stand and wait, I must own with some fear as to how +it was going to end. Up to this time the storm had come up and fallen on +us in total silence: now, after about ten minutes of pitch darkness, we +could hear in the far distance the wind coming. It came up with cyclonic +force, and then everything in the way of tins and buckets began to be +blown in every direction, and the horses to gallop about neighing, +evidently very much frightened. The wind was the forerunner of the rain, +which gradually began to clear the air, though, of course, for some time +it rained mud, much to the detriment of the houses, and to anyone +unfortunate enough to be caught out of doors in the storm; indeed, one +of our friends, who insisted on starting for the station just as the +storm descended on us, was found crouching under his umbrella by one of +the posts of the railway fence, with a face as black as a sweep's, and, +by then, deeply repentant that he had started for the station against +advice. Indeed, many caught out in camp by the storm lost their lives +through falling into wells, and, in some cases, the river. But, +fortunately, nowadays--principally, I fancy, owing to the larger area of +country under cultivation--these dust storms do not recur. + + + + +LOCUSTS. + + +During the past century considerable study has been centred upon the +life and habits of the locust, mainly from the desire to seek its +subjugation and destruction, and, whilst much general biological +information has been written upon the subject, there are things which we +do not yet know about this insect or its habits. We do not know what +precise influences cause their migration, nor do we know what is the +exact length of life of the locust or its breeding power, or the precise +locality in any country which may be defined as its permanent abode. +Locusts are classified under the order of orthopterous insects of the +family Acrydiidae, and are very closely related to grasshoppers. + +There are a large number of species, the differentiating features being +more or less the form and sculpture of protorax, the size of the head, +the length and size of the prosternal spine, the comparative length and +size of the hind thighs and shanks, the amount and arrangement of the +tegmina mottlings, the comparative length of wings, and the general +build of the entire insect, which may be robust or fairly slender. + +A general description of the distinctive physical features of migratory +locusts might be given as a strong, wild-looking head, a strong collar +inside which the neck moves, powerful and peculiarly-formed legs +attached to a short, strong, square trunk or thorax, four wings, two +antennae or feelers, six legs, and a long segmentary abdomen. The ground +colour of the locust is generally brownish, straw, or red, but its +colour varies somewhat according to the particular season of the year +or some other peculiar circumstance, but nothing certain is known as to +what influences the shade of colour. Mere ground colour is immaterial +and does not signify a new species. + +Besides having a pair of compound eyes which form so noticeable a +feature in its head, there are three other simple little eyes, placed +like shining dots at three angles of a triangle below the two feelers. + +The mouth, which is a fearful apparatus, consists of nine distinct and +well-marked organs; an interior or upper lip, consisting of a plate +deeply cleft and capable of opening enormously; two true jaws or +powerful mandibles; and two pairs of jointed organs called (maxillary) +palpi, and two lower jaws. The mandibles and jaws move laterally from +right to left. + +The thorax or trunk consists really of three rings. To the first is +attached the two front legs; to the second, the two middle legs and the +first pair of wings, and to the third, the two hind legs and the second +pair of posterior wings. Along the posterior margin is a well marked +serrated (spinous) arrangement by means of which the locust adheres and +grips forcibly. The trunk appears to be full of a fatty sort of +substance. + +The abdomen consists of a number of horny segments which are joined +together by an elastic membrane, a construction which enables the insect +to extend its body several centimetres beyond its normal extent. It can +also be increased in thickness. + +The front and middle feet of this insect are short and weak, but the +length, strength, and formation of the hind legs enable it to take +extraordinary leaps. A full-grown locust can jump seven or eight feet in +height, whilst it is said to be able to leap more than 200 times the +length of its body. + +The female is normally larger by 1/4 or 1/2 inch in length than the +male, and has a rather thicker body. + +The average length of the migratory locust is from 2-1/2 to 3 inches and +about 3/8 inch in thickness in the abdomen. Locusts generally lay their +eggs in the spring, and the manner in which the females, having selected +a favourable site, make an excavation in the earth for depositing their +eggs is intensely interesting and wonderful. + +At the very extremity of the abdomen the female has two pairs of horny +valves or hooks, each pair placed back to back with their points +directed outwards, and arranged so that all four hooks can be brought +with their points close together. By this means a sharp pointed lever is +formed which can be turned around, evolved, and forked. With this +apparatus she drills a small hole and by means of a series of muscular +efforts and the continuing opening and closing of the valves provided +with the formation of the abdomen, she actually bores to a depth of 6 to +7 centimetres, or about 3 inches. Here she deposits her eggs--normally +about eighty--regularly arranged in a long cylindrical mass and +envelopes them in a spumous or sort of glutinous secretion, so that the +whole are quite tapped up and level with the surface of the ground. This +substance when dried is more or less impassable and affords protection +to the eggs from the elements and secures an easy outlet to the surface +for the young locust when hatched. The eggs resemble in shape grains of +small rice and are about 1/4 inch long. + +The eggs hatch in from twenty-five to sixty days, usually about forty +days, but the period may vary a little according to temperature, +humidity, etc. The young locusts are known as "hoppers," in which stage +they pass some forty-five or fifty days before arriving at the fully +developed stage known as "fliers." To reach the "flying" or "migratory" +stage they pass through six different states, changing the colour of +their skin several times, gradually approaching to full growth, and +finally growing wings. + +They have no quiescent stage, and whilst they are naturally yet +incapable of flight, their locomotive powers are very considerable, and +they are very destructive, for their voracity is great. Comparatively +speaking, the flying locusts do less damage to the growing crops than +the hoppers, who devour everything clean before them. + +It is interesting to state that the "hoppers" in the first stage are in +length about 7 to 9 mm., or not quite one-third of an inch, and that the +feelers have thirteen divisions, extending to twenty-seven divisions at +full growth. + +During the cold weather they usually gather together in thousands, +clinging closely to all kinds of vegetation and to each other. In this +season the general rule seems to be that comparatively little food is +taken of any kind. For the purpose of watching the development of their +eggs, several hundred locusts have been opened during the winter months +by entomologists, and invariably their cases have been found empty. + +Perhaps the most feasible suggestion as to the cause of their migratory +impulse is that locusts naturally breed in dry sandy districts in which +food is scarce, and are thus impelled to wander in order to procure the +necessaries of life. + +The rate of travel varies according to circumstances. With an +unfavourable wind, or little wind, they seldom travel more than five +miles an hour. At other times, when the wind is favourable, they will +cover fifteen to twenty miles per hour. When on the wing it is certain +that a distance of 1,000 miles may, in particular cases, be taken as a +moderate estimate of flight, and whilst, probably, it is often much +less, it is sometimes much more. Their height of flight has been +variously estimated at from forty to two hundred feet. "A dropping from +the clouds" is a common expression used by observers when describing the +apparition of a swarm. + +It will not be denied that the presence of locusts in force constitutes +a terrible plague. They make their appearance in swarms and eat up +everything. It is wellnigh impossible to estimate the number in a cloud +of locusts, but some idea may be formed from the fact that when they are +driven, as sometimes is the case in a storm, into the sea and drowned, +so many are washed ashore, that it is said by one observer that their +dead bodies formed a bank of nearly 40 miles long and 300 yards wide, +and many feet in depth, and the stench from the corruption of their +bodies proceeded 150 miles inland. + +When a swarm of locusts temporarily settles in a district, all +vegetation rapidly disappears, and then hunger urges them on another +stage. Such is their voracity that cannibalism amongst them has been +asserted as an outcome of the failure of other kinds of food. + +Locusts have their natural enemies. Many birds greedily devour them, in +fact a migratory swarm is usually followed by myriads of birds, +especially sea gulls; they are often found 150 to 200 miles inland. +Often a flock of gulls will clean up a "manga" of locusts; they devour +them by thousands, and will then go to a neighbouring laguna, take a +little water, and throw up all they have eaten, and at a given signal go +off again to fill up with more locusts, only to repeat the operation +time after time. Predatory insects of other orders also attack them, +especially when in the unwinged state. They have still more deadly foes +in parasites, some of which attack the fully developed locust, but the +greater number adopt the more insidious method of attacking the eggs. + +Many inventions have been brought out with the object of exterminating +the locusts, some of which, at least, have doubtless been partly +successful, but determined and combined effort by the nation and land +proprietors is imperative if the remedial and preventive measures +proposed are to reap the success hoped for. + +The Agricultural Defence Department reports having spent $10,561,540 mn. +from 1st January, 1909, to 31st May, 1910, in fighting the locusts. The +total area invaded was 135,000,000 hectares (about 337,500,000 acres). + +From 1892 to date, and with what is required for the present year, +$54,000,000 have been spent in combating locusts and like plagues to +agriculture. + + + + +CONSCRIPT LIFE IN THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. + + +The life of a conscript is more agreeable than most people in the +Argentine Republic imagine it to be, although it has its disadvantages +as well as its advantages. + +Every year all over the Republic a drawing takes place, calling to arms, +for a year in the Army or two in the Navy, Argentines who have attained +the age of twenty-one. At an average 12,000 to 15,000 are called out +every year and distributed in the different regiments, according to +height; from 1.75 metres upwards to Cavalry, middle height to Infantry, +and short men to Artillery. + +For eight months the troops are drilled daily, and at the end of this +period a big manoeuvre is held in which every regiment has to take part. +This manoeuvre is divided into two parts: in the month of September all +troops pertaining to the I., II., and IV. Regions are mobilised, and in +November those of the III. and V. + +The daily routine is as follows: At 4 a.m. at the call of a bugle all +troops have to rise, and the roll is called over; at 4.30 a.m. coffee is +served; at 5.0 every morning orders are given to saddle-up horses and +arm, and they have to be ready to leave the barracks at 5.30 for morning +drill on horseback or to go to the shooting range, according to the +time-table; the drilling continues till 10 o'clock, at which hour the +troops are due back at the barracks, having to go through a course of +drilling on foot up till 11 o'clock. + +At 11 o'clock the troops have to turn out and clean and brush down their +horses until 11.30, at which hour lunch is served out; after which they +are allowed to do as they like (except leave the barracks) till 1.30 +p.m.; from 1.30 to 3 p.m. the troops are drilled on foot, and at 3 p.m. +"Maté-cocido" is served out; at 3.30 they have to attend class until +4.30 p.m., either on "Campaign Service," "Military Duties or Laws," or +on the "Carabine or Sword"; every other day class is given on the +different parts of a horse, and on how to look after and clean same. +From 4.30 to 5.30 p.m. there is revision and cleaning of arms. At 5.30 +dinner is served out, after which those who have leave are allowed out +until 10 p.m., or in some cases until 4 a.m. next morning. + +Those drawn for the Navy have to go through a preliminary course of +training on shore before being sent on board the training ship +"Sarmiento," which every two years leaves Buenos Aires for a trip round +the world, occupying, on an average, eighteen months. + +There are certain allowances made for students, who at the age of +nineteen are allowed to enlist in the 8th Cavalry, where they have to +serve for three months. At the end of this period they are put through a +very severe examination, and should they pass, are promoted to the grade +of Sub-Lieutenant of the Reserve, having to serve for a month every year +in a regiment allotted to them. + +The advantages of conscription are many. It brings half-breeds from all +parts of the Republic in touch with civilization, it teaches them +obedience, respect for their superiors, and, above all, how to shoot. +After their year's service they leave the barracks knowing a good deal +more about things in general than when they entered them. + +There is also the better class of lads to be considered. Conscription +teaches them a few things also, viz., to knuckle down (which is a great +failing of the Anglo-Argentines), and be made to do things which they +have not been accustomed to, clean out stable, etc., and look after +their equipment properly, as anything they may happen to lose is +deducted from their wages, which are very small, $5 per month. + +The food in the Army is good and plentiful: there is coffee in the +morning on rising, a mid-day meal and dinner, which are usually similar, +consisting of soup and "puchero" (a national dish made of beef and +vegetables boiled), and an occasional dish of "pulenta" (boiled maize). + +The general treatment in the barracks is good. There are cases of +miscarriage of justice and ill-treatment, but these are rare. A +conscript may have to suffer punishment although in the right, and is +not allowed to protest his innocence against an officer until after he +has completed his punishment. + + + + +ACROSS THE BOLIVIAN ANDES IN 1901. + + +Recollections of a journey from the Peruvian port of Mollendo to the +Bolivian interior, which the writer made in the year stated, are here +transcribed. No rhetorical merit is claimed, facts only are related, and +the compiler of the manuscript only hopes that his efforts may, in part +at least, justify a cursory perusal, without exhausting the patience of +the readers, or overtaxing their indulgence. These notes are transcribed +nearly ten years after the trip was made, and any readers who may have +visited Bolivia at a more recent date are requested to make allowance +for such modifications or change of conditions of which they can be the +only judges. + +I have crossed the Andes Chain in other places farther south, in Chile; +but on this occasion I will confine my observations to the trip as +headed. + +Mollendo is one of the worst ports on the Pacific coast, but is of some +importance on account of the fact that the railway through Peru to Lake +Titicaca starts here. All vessels have to lie at least half a mile from +the land on account of the constant heavy swell, and the landing is +always attended by a certain amount of danger, so much so that not +infrequently passengers have to be "slung" on to the landing stage in +baskets made for the purpose. Like most of the South American coast from +Valparaiso northwards there is little or no vegetation, and the scenery +is not of the kind generally associated with tropical climes, of which +one reads so much. Sand dunes and waste meet the eye on all sides, and +the traveller for the interior is generally glad when the railway +journey commences. + +Of the country through which the railway takes one there is not much to +be said, but the attention of the traveller is at once called to the +marvellous ingenuity of the famous engineer Meiggs, who built the +railway. Gradually rising as the coast recedes, the train reaches +Arequipa, at an elevation of 7,500 feet, and distant from Mollendo about +200 miles. Arequipa has about 45,000 inhabitants, and, while rather +prettily situated in a small valley surrounded by high volcanoes, it +does not have anything of particular interest to attract one. Moreover, +it suffers frequently from earthquakes, which does not surprise one when +you look at the giant volcano "El Misti," towering up to 18,000 feet, at +no great distance off. The houses are all built with "vaulted" +foundations, the better to resist the "earth-tremblings," but on this +occasion I did not experience any shocks. + +Leaving Arequipa behind, the ascent continues until the highest point is +reached at Crucero Alto, where a notice board indicates that we are now +14,666 feet above sea level. It is before reaching this altitude that +the wonderful enterprise of the engineer shows up. The line goes on +winding and climbing, twisting back again but always ascending, for +hours, until a point is reached where passengers, looking down from the +carriage windows, may see right below them, only a few feet down, the +actual railway track over which they have passed an hour before. At one +place there are actually _three tracks visible,_ one right below the +other, just like steps and stairs, and I believe there is nothing quite +like it in Argentina. Leaving Crucero Alto the descent is very gradual +until Puno is reached, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, but still at an +altitude of 12,000 feet or more. I did not actually see the town, which +is a short distance from the station, but went straight on board the +"Coya," the steamer which was to ferry us across to Chililaya or Puerto +Perez, on the Bolivian side of the immense lake.[F] The distance in this +direction is about 110 miles, and the passage was made in ten hours, +during the night, so that I had not on this occasion an opportunity of +seeing the surrounding scenery. + +On another occasion I saw too much of it, as the steamer missed the +canalized strip which extends several miles out from Puno, and we +remained hard aground for thirty hours. We had over a hundred Japanese +passengers--immigrants going to the rubber country--and all armed with +huge revolvers; but as the food lasted out until we were relieved by +another small steamer belonging to the railway company they were kept in +good humour, and they gave no trouble at all. Before floating again +about 100 tons of cargo had to be transhipped to the other steamer, and +when we again got into the deep channel it was again transferred to the +s.s. "Coya." This latter boat was about 150 feet long; it was quite a +comfortable boat, and the food and bedding were decent, when you +consider the part of the world you were in. The bill of fare and wine +list contained many quaint delicacies, and I shall never forget how the +printer of same spelt the word indicating Scotch wine (commonly known as +whisky). He was quite phonetic from the Spanish point of view, and the +word read "Güiscki," but it tasted all right. + +Landing at the Bolivian side of Puerto Perez, the immense plateau which +covers all the centre of Bolivia stretches out on all sides landwards, +until it meets the inner and higher range of the Cordilleras. + +La Paz, the then capital of Bolivia, on account of the fact that the +President, General Pando, lived there, was our next objective point, +and we found the old "Diligence Coach," drawn by eight horses, awaiting +to convey us the forty-two miles across the plain. This part of the +journey is most uninteresting, and the road was only fair. All along it +is the same level, stony ground, entirely devoid of trees, and covered +completely with large, round stones. These latter the Indians have to +gather in heaps, and thus make some open patches for growing their +potatoes and grain, which, with their "Chalona," or sheep dried in the +sun, are their principal foodstuffs throughout the year. Besides, the +surplus produce is conveyed to the larger towns on llamas, and there +realised to the best advantage. It is a very interesting sight every +Sunday morning to see the "market," and the curio hunter would just be +in his element, as not only do the Indians bring in vegetables and +fruits, but all sorts of native silver in quaint shapes, and ornaments +made by the Indians themselves can be picked up very cheaply. The +dresses of the Indian squaws are also very picturesque, and, as far as I +can remember, red, green, and bright yellow were the dominating colours. +But I am getting away from the main subject. + +Right ahead of us there is the gigantic Illimani, silent and majestic, +with its perpetually white crown rising 22,000 feet above sea-level. One +begins to wonder where La Paz can be, as the plain seems to extend right +to the foot of the mountain. Keeping steadily on, however, the coach +eventually arrives at the brink of a hitherto unnoticed hollow, and the +scene that here awaits the traveller is magnificent in the extreme. To +describe the view baffles my limited vocabulary. There you are looking +down on the roofs of the houses in La Paz, which lies snugly 1,200 feet +below you. It just seems that you could drop a stone on to them, so +precipitate are the cliffs; but it is the enormous drop that deceives +the eye, because, of the route over which the coach passes, six miles +have yet to be traversed before getting into the town. I have seen La +Paz from the top of the "Cuesta" both by day and night, and the latter +effect, while losing much of its grandeur and magnificence, on account +of the darkness, almost surpasses in beauty that of the daylight vision. +The whole city is lit up by electricity, and it just seems as if one +were gazing _down_ on another firmament, if such a thing can be +imagined. I repeat, that to fully appreciate this special scenery words +fail me. + +Allow me to transgress once more. On the first occasion that I reached +the top of the entrance to La Paz it was under rather "sporting" +circumstances, which, I think, I may be excused for interpolating here. +I had come on horseback and _alone_ from the mining town of Coro Coro, +sixty-six miles off, and it is a very hard and tiring journey. The +elevation above the sea varies from about 14,000 feet to 12,000 feet at +the La Paz end, and therefore great speed is impossible on account of +the rarity of the air. Apparently I had journeyed too fast for my horse, +as the poor animal died when I was still eighteen miles from La Paz. +Here was a nice "kettle of fish." It was all right enough as long as +daylight lasted, but when darkness overtook me I was fairly "in the +soup." Not knowing the road, and there being nothing to guide me and no +one to consult, I simply walked along slowly, hoping to strike up +against some Indian settlement, and pass the night somehow or other. I +trudged along for goodness knows how long until I eventually did hear +some sounds indicating that at any rate I was nearing some encampment or +habitation. I could hear what was supposed to be music, and in the dark +made my way, as near as I could judge, in the direction of the sound, +and in about half an hour my efforts were rewarded, as I had overtaken a +band of roving Indians, all in fancy dress, playing funny reed +instruments and dancing continuously as they travelled. They could not +speak Spanish, but at that time I knew sufficient of their +language--"Aymara," as it is called--and soon explained to them my +position. I was allowed to accompany them, as I found they also were +bound for La Paz, and soon became a lifelong friend of theirs when I +produced a small bottle of whisky which I had with me. The experience +was of a unique nature for a white man, but I must confess I rather +appreciated the novelty than otherwise, and when I reached La Paz about +1 a.m. I felt that I had had quite an adventure, which might easily have +had a more sinister termination, had my Indian escort shown the other +side of their nature. Well, to come back to our old coach, which I think +I left at the top of the La Paz entrance, I resumed my seat and got into +the city at mid-day. I put up at an excellent hotel, of which there were +several, and at once bethought me of looking for work, as the balance in +my bank (otherwise my pocket) did not warrant my looking upon my visit +to La Paz as one of pleasure only. At the time I write of there was one +solitary Britisher resident in La Paz, and he was a Scotchman like +myself. This was before the railway from Oruro was built, and he was +proprietor of the coaches that ran, once a week, from La Paz to the +south; and I understood had quite a remunerative business. La Paz is a +peculiarly situated city, as the reader may imagine from my description +of its position. The streets are mostly hilly and steep, with the +exception of one or two which run parallel to each other on both sides +of the valley, at the foot of, and in the centre of which flows, the La +Paz river. This it bridged in about half a dozen places for horse +traffic, and while, for most of the year, there is scarcely any water in +the river, when the snow melts it is converted into a veritable roaring +torrent; and I happened to be present during one of the most serious +accidents that had ever occurred from this cause. + +It had rained very copiously for some days, and the river had risen +enormously--in fact higher than ever before recorded--and many were the +predictions as to how the bridges would stand the weight of water. The +usual sightseers were about, and, unfortunately, a large number of them +paid the penalty with their lives. They had been duly warned that a +certain bridge was dangerous and threatened to give way, but this +evidently excited their curiosity all the more; at any rate, a crowd +tried to cross, with the result that the bridge tumbled into the raging +stream, carrying with it over 200 people, and many of them were +drowned--the exact number was never known. + +Quite an important city is La Paz, and a large number of wealthy +mine-owners reside there, drawing their incomes from rich tin mines in +the neighbourhood. There are also numerous stores from which the wants +of the distant population that reside in the rubber country are +supplied. The larger proportion of the inhabitants are Indians, and I +cannot help remarking that the Bolivian Indians, men and women, are +about the ugliest type of human creatures I have yet seen. Besides, they +are very illiterate, and it is estimated that, of the total population +of Bolivia, only about 30 per cent. can read or write. In the south, +Aymara is chiefly spoken; but further north, Quechua is the commoner +language. I saw several bull fights in the bullring of which the town +boasts, but they were so very disgusting that I refrain from nauseating +my readers with details. + +The Cathedral was only half completed when I was there, and I understand +is still in the same condition. I was forgetting to mention that there +was no British Minister or Consul in La Paz, and the story goes that, at +some previous period, a Bolivian President compelled the British +official representative to ride round the plaza seated on a donkey, but +with his face to the tail; the consequence being that the Prime Minister +of Great Britain figuratively wiped Bolivia off the map. Anything which +we required from the Diplomatic Service had to be obtained through the +medium of the British Minister resident in Lima, in Peru. This may now +be altered, but I am not aware of the fact. I remained several months in +La Paz in the employment of a Bolivian magnate, but the remuneration not +being commensurate with my ambitions, I eventually arranged to accompany +the proprietor of a very large rubber forest on a trip to his properties +on the higher reaches of the River Amazon, and hence my privilege of +being able to offer you a perusal of my experiences across the inner +ranges of the Cordillera mountains. His daughter also accompanied him, +and, although the journey is a most uncomfortable one in more ways than +one, she stood the fatigue of many days' riding on mule-back, over +trails which did not deserve the name of roads, just about as well as +any of the rest of us. + +For a trip of this kind many provisions have to be made, as very little +indeed can be procured on the journey in the way of good food or +lodging. We accordingly had to carry our beds and bedding, and in fact +everything we could think of in the form of clothes, food, firearms, +and, of course, the necessary accompaniment in liquid form. Most of our +baggage and what we might not require at a moment's notice we sent on +ahead with a day's anticipation, and eventually on the 20th May, 1901, +our caravan departed from the then capital of Bolivia, at 8 a.m. Our +conveyance, to start with, consisted of a coach drawn by four mules, and +it took much longer to climb the steep "Cuesta" than it had taken us to +descend on previous occasions already mentioned. However, our animals +were good and in about an hour and a-half we reached the top of the +hill, and I took what proved to be my last view of La Paz City. + +The journey for the first forty miles is over the same ground as I have +already referred to, in the direction of Lake Titicaca, and there is +nothing more to be said about it, beyond that we changed animals at a +place called Ocomisto, this being simply a few Indian huts where there +is always a supply of grain and water for the animals, and the ordinary +country fare for the passing traveller. There was a long journey ahead +of us, so we only remained during the time that was occupied in +outspanning the tired mules and inspanning the fresh lot. At 1 o'clock +we reached Machacamarca, another "tambo" or resting-place, and were very +disgusted to find that our pack animals, which we had dispatched the day +before, had got no farther than this point. Our desired destination for +the night was the Indian town of Achicachi, twelve leagues off, but as +it was now quite out of the question to think of travelling our baggage +animals so far before night should overtake us, we had to change our +plans and therefore directed our coach towards Guarina, another Indian +town on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but much nearer than Achicachi, and +we eventually arrived there at 5 p.m., having covered, more or less, +fifty miles since morning. The journey seemed longer, as the country is +so much alike all along the route; but as the roads were fair, +travelling was quite comfortable. + +Guarina is purely an Indian fishing village, and the only white people +are the Bolivian half-caste authorities. As I have already stated, there +are no hotels or even lodging-houses in these Indian towns, and ordinary +travellers have just to hunt about until they find a place suitable to +put beds for the night. However, as my friend was a "personage" in +Bolivia, in other words, a man of position and power in political +circles, we of course fared considerably better than we should otherwise +have done had he not been with us; and we were invited to put up in the +house of one of these men in authority. He did his best for us in their +frugal way of living, and gave us a meal consisting of "Chairo," which +is soup as black as coal, and made from frozen potatoes which are called +"chuno." These are about the size of walnuts, hard and black, and have +to be well soaked before cooking, and then they are not a savoury bite. +The next plate consisted of "Chalona," already described as lean sheep +dried in the sun, and which, generally speaking, is very repugnant in +appearance, smell, and taste. Never mind, we were hungry and partook of +whatever was brought along, until the "inner man" cried content! The +meal, I may add, was washed down with a cheap "wine" distilled from +cheaper raisins, but it was something wet, and for the time sufficed. + +Our pack animals arrived at Guarina about 7 p.m., and we very soon had +our things unpacked and occupied our beds, knowing that a pretty early +start would be made in the morning. The night passed uneventfully, and +at daybreak we got under way, bound for Achicachi, about five leagues +off. There is still a road for vehicles to this town, and keeping along +the shores of Lake Titicaca, we reached this larger Indian town about 9 +a.m. The population was about 5,000 Indians, but it is a very +uninteresting, bleak spot, and we only remained long enough to have a +square meal, which we were again fortunate enough to have provided for +us by the reigning magistrate. That over, we then dispatched our coach +on its return journey to La Paz, and thought of our other means of +transport for the forward journey. Good mules we had sent ahead, and +were now awaiting us saddled and ready, and we at last got started on +this the more arduous part of our journey inland. Our destination for +the night was Gualata, a small holding belonging to my fellow-traveller, +and we reached it at about 1 o'clock, having climbed probably 2,000 feet +higher up the mountains. Cultivation of cereals and potatoes is carried +on on a limited scale, owing to the altitude, and taking it all round, +the house, although comfortable enough, was situated in about as bleak +and bare a spot as it is pretty well possible to imagine. + +Nevertheless, it was peopled by about sixty Indians, who turned out in +true Indian style in their beautifully coloured robes and making +horrible discordant noises which were intended for music--all, of +course, to show their appreciation of their "patron." Here, of course, +we got all we required, and as there were any amount of fowls to be had, +our bill-of-fare improved in accordance. There was nothing to do +specially, and we did not feel inclined to move about much at this +elevation above the sea, so we were quite pleased when bed-time came +round, and without any ceremony each retired to their respective couches +_on the floor_. Owing to excessive cold, however, sleep was out of the +question, and it was a relief when day dawned on May 22nd. After +refreshing ourselves with a cup of tea we set out for Sorata, distant +about six leagues. Travelling was now much slower as the roads were very +bad, and in some places very steep and covered with loose stones. This +made the foothold bad for the mules, but we trusted to the useful +animals entirely, letting them go along on a loose rein to choose their +own footing, which they did very successfully. We passed the Indian +village of Illabaya, perched on the side of a hill, and all plotted out +in small squares for the cultivation of vegetables, etc., of which we +bought a supply for our own use. The highest point we passed was over +14,000 feet, and then began the gradual descent into the pretty little +town of Sorata, 6,000 feet lower down. The path was not of the best, and +the pace was very slow; but the scenery was quite refreshing compared +with what we had already passed through. + +Sorata is indeed very pretty and quaint, and although comparatively out +of the world, a traveller can spend a short time there pleasantly, and +personally speaking, the few days we remained were very enjoyable, +thanks once more to my friend's influence. For a change we did not sleep +on the floor, and by way of recreation I scented out a billiard table, +not a good one, it is true, and the balls were rather elliptical; but as +I had once personated the "Mikado," _à la Gilbert & Sullivan_, the +conditions were not so disconcerting as they would doubtless have been +to a less famous personage! Sorata, being the nearest town to the +Bolivian rubber districts which export their products to the Pacific +coast, is naturally of more consequence on that account, as all +materials and merchandise for the interior must pass through the hands +of the Sorata merchants, while the rubber exported to the coast also +finds its way through the medium of Sorata agents. + +There is the usual plaza in the centre of the town, where the youth and +beauty disport themselves in the way peculiar to these mountainous +regions, which consists of walking round and round at a good pace to +keep up the circulation, as the weather is nearly always cold in Sorata. +Illampu, the competitor of Illimani and Aconcagua, and which claims to +be the highest peak in South America, rises up magnificently right above +and round the town, and visitors for the first time must really wonder +how they are to find a road to cross these gigantic mountains, as the +town appears to be so completely shut in. + +However, on 27th May we started to ascend the track forming the way to +the interior, and got a fine send-off by the inhabitants, the more +important of whom turned out to bid us adieu and wish us luck over a +case or two of beer. The climb before us was a constant one for 18 +miles, and to-day we were to pass the highest point of our entire trip. +This we reached about midday, at just under 16,000 feet. We were above +the perpetual snow-line for a short time, and it was piercingly cold, +besides we had to go slowly on account of the thin air, but we kept +steadily on and reached an old mining establishment called "El Injenio" +at 5 p.m., having done 24 miles in all since morning. There is a long, +steep descent to the old mining camp by a narrow winding track cut out +of the mountain side, and as the drop on one side to the little stream +down below was about 40 to 50 feet, and there was no protecting fence of +any kind, we decided to get off our mules, and accordingly completed the +worst part of the way on foot, and of course this made travelling very +much slower. + +Apparently, gold-washing had not been carried on for a very long time, +as although the main building still has a roof, the whole place has a +very deserted look about it; but, nevertheless, it still affords a +covering for weary travellers like ourselves, and we soon began to +select the most comfortable looking corners for our beds. There was an +old Indian there who earns a meagre existence by selling forage to +passing travellers for their beasts of burden; and he was also utilised +by us for getting a fire ready and boiling water for a welcome cup of +warm tea. + +One thousand feet above our heads, as it seemed, we could see Llane, +another of these quaint, Indian hamlets, but the appearance of the +exceedingly precipitate track up to it did not excite us in any desire +to make the ascent. After partaking of some food, we got under our +blankets in the usual way at sunset to once more sleep the sleep of the +contented traveller. By 6.15 next morning we were again in the saddle +and under way--the road was now even narrower than before, about two +feet wide only--winding round and round the mountain side, ascending all +the time, and in some parts far too steep for comfortable riding. From +now onwards the journey was over tracks, not roads, and many of the +ascents and descents were so steep that it was quite out of the question +to attempt to negotiate them on muleback. We, accordingly, with +philosophic patience had just to accept the inevitable, and get off and +lead our animals over these now really dangerous parts. Some of the +precipices down to the river bed were now much deeper, and had we slid +over, we might have experienced considerable inconvenience at the +bottom, and a greater difficulty in getting up again. The roads became +worse and worse, and really they could be given no other name than +"goat-tracks," but the mule is a wonderful beast, and let him have his +head (on no account attempt to guide him), there is not much fear of any +serious trouble. Our sleeping place for the night was to be at an old +ruin of a house at a bare, but more level, opening in the mountains, +called Tolapampa, and before reaching this we had to negotiate much the +worst pass on the whole route. This is called the "tornillo" (screw), +and it is a real corkscrew path, cut out of the mountain side at an +angle of about 50 deg., and about 450 feet of a climb. + +Riding was of course impossible, and we scrambled more than walked until +we safely got over the top, very tired and puffed out. The mules with +their cargo followed our example, and it was wonderful to see how they +kept their feet; as one false step might have sent them to the bottom, +carrying everything behind them too, and on more than one occasion this +has happened, the animals falling, generally being killed outright in +the fall. Pushing on as fast as possible, it was not till 4 o'clock p.m. +that our residence for the night loomed in view, and it did not inspire +one that it could supply much in the way of home comforts. Sure, the old +hovel had walls and a roof, but beyond that there were no windows, and +where the door ought to have been there was only a hole in the wall, but +nothing to close it with to keep out the intense cold. + +We, of course, knew when we started that we would have to rough it, so +there was no use grumbling now, and therefore set about at once to get +something to make a fire with. With great good fortune we, after a great +deal of searching and gathering, obtained some old rubbish that burned. +I say with good luck, because this is a treeless region yet, at an +elevation of 10,000 feet, and fuel is naturally always at a premium. For +cooking it did not matter so much, as we had a spirit lamp, but it was +to warm our bodies and keep up our spirits that made the fire so +desirable. Darkness was on us before we finished our evening meal, and +we looked forward to the night with no very pleasant forebodings--and it +did turn out a tiresome night--it rained all the time and the cold was +extreme--so much so, that we eventually sat up most of the time, hoping +by daylight to move on to a more charitable atmosphere. + +I think I should not miss this opportunity of relating an experience of +mine when I journeyed over the same route on another occasion. Then I +was only accompanied by two Indians--no white people--and was travelling +towards Sorata. I remember very well we reached Tolapampa, already +described, in the afternoon, it having rained constantly all day. I was +suffering from malaria very acutely, and the high levels at which we had +been travelling also affected me grievously. I arrived at Tolapampa +soaked to the skin, shivering cold, and really more dead than alive. To +aggravate matters we could not light a fire--everything was wet--and I +can assure you it was anything but a bright outlook for us. Another gang +of about ten Indians also turned up, and we did look a sorry lot. +However, these natives, seeing that I was so weak (I had had malaria +almost constantly during the previous six months), did all they could to +get me to "buck up," and kept moving me backwards and forwards to warm +myself, which operation I well remember was a very tedious one. They +also tried to get me to eat of their cold frugal fare; but that was +beyond me; and after they decided it was time to rest for the night, I +scrambled in _amongst them_--Indians all round me--so as to benefit from +the heat of their bodies. It was neither a very pleasant nor a very +clean position that I occupied, and I can hardly realise how I had the +courage to do what I did; but the facts remain the same, and at any rate +I got some rest. + +It poured all night, and when at daybreak I suggested to my men that it +was time to start, they positively refused to move until the rain +ceased. I brought all my persuasive powers to bear, but it was of no +avail, and as I had decided to go on alone, all I got out of them was a +promise they would follow me at 10 o'clock. It was very disappointing, +but I was determined to get forward at all cost. I therefore started on +my lonely journey at eight o'clock, with the rain, and at times sleet, +coming down in bucketfuls; I could hardly see in front of me at times, +and it was destined to be a trip of which I shall always retain very +vivid recollections. On this occasion, owing to the excessive rains, all +the little mountain streams, which under normal circumstances are of no +inconvenience to travellers, had been converted into veritable roaring +torrents, causing me on more than one occasion to think twice before +attempting a crossing. To condense matters as much as possible, let me +remark that it rained all day; travelling was not only difficult but +positively dangerous, and I, being so ill, could hardly keep my seat on +my mule. All this made travelling so slow that I was still a long way +from "El Injenio," my objective point for the night, when darkness +overtook me. I had the narrow, dangerous paths to go along which I have +already described, and I therefore did not trust to getting over them on +muleback, but took the safer and, in my opinion, more sensible plan of +leading my animal. This was tedious work, but it was to become worse +very soon. I arrived at one of those swollen mountain streams, the +appearance of which in the darkness fairly frightened me. My mule would +not look at it, and for a while I did not know exactly what to do. I +could judge that it was four or five feet deep, and rushing past at a +great rate. Neither mule nor I could ever have hoped to keep our feet if +we had attempted crossing, as it was about thirty feet wide. I left my +mule and commenced to reconnoitre along the side, when I came to what +had been a bridge, but which was partly washed away, leaving a gap of +about four feet in the middle, as far as I could judge in the uncertain +light, and over which it was impossible for a mule to go. Leaving my +mule, I made a good jump, and, fortunately, got over all right, but, +after all, I did not know in the least where I was, and, before +attempting to return to my animal, I started to go forward in the hope +of at least striking some sheltered spot where I might pass the night. +Meantime, however, I heard a crash, and, as it turned out, away had gone +the remainder of the bridge, leaving me on one side, and now completely +isolated from my mule and saddle-bags. There was no use fretting, so I +continued moving on--it was now dark--feeling my way, and keeping very +carefully away from the river. I had not proceeded very far before my +progress was all too suddenly arrested. I did not until the next morning +know what actually did take place, but the facts are as follows: In +groping my way along I had actually been walking on the very edge of a +sort of precipice, and apparently had simply stepped over the side. At +any rate, I rolled to the bottom, which, luckily for me, was only about +fifteen feet; but it was quite a bump, and I wondered where I had +actually landed. As it was so black, and I did not know anything of my +surroundings, I simply made up my mind to remain where I had fallen +until morning. I ought to tell you that, although I had plenty of +matches, they were all wet with the rain, so that they would not light, +and I had to remain in darkness all night. My saddle-bags were with the +mule, and I did not even know now where the animal might be. I was +soaking wet, shivering with ague, nothing to eat, plenty of cigarettes +and matches, but unable to smoke or even make a light, so my +disagreeable plight can to some extent be imagined. Moreover, there were +about six inches of water all round me, so that I could not attempt to +sleep. The cold was intense, and I can safely say that I never spent +such a long, disagreeable, and dreary night in all my previous +experience, and I hope never to be compelled to do so again. There are +bears in this district also, but I am thankful to say that I was not +molested in any way. + +Towards morning the rain slackened, and when daylight came I never felt +more thankful in my life. I climbed out of my nest, and there, only +about a hundred yards away, was my faithful mule standing exactly as I +had left him. I waited until the water in the stream had gone down +sufficiently, and crossing on foot, with the water about two feet deep, +I mounted my mule, and then recrossed on muleback. I knew from the +number of hours I had travelled on the previous day I could not be far +from Injenio, and I was right, as in less than an hour I saw my +destination right ahead of me. I was in a pitiful condition, and could +hardly stand up. The old Indian recognised me and got me dry wraps after +a fashion, and I got under his dry blankets. I could not eat, but I +drank a large quantity of "Aguardiente," which at least put some life +into me. In the meantime I did not know what had become of my pack +animals and Indians, but I was not in a state to worry about them, and +didn't. Instead, I kept my bed for about thirty hours, until I was +revived somewhat. Then, luckily, my men turned up, and I was able to +continue my journey to Sorata. + +Well, we left Tolapampa about 6 a.m., and for the best part of the day +the route was over country very similar to that passed on the previous +day; but we were descending rapidly now, and the temperature became +perceptibly much warmer, in fact, by the afternoon we had indications +that soon we should arrive in the "montes," where we would have +vegetation in abundance, and consequently we would at least have some +shade during the heat of the day. The road, nevertheless, continued to +be very rough and broken, and we had frequently to dismount and lead our +animals for long distances at a time. The long pass of Margurani was +unusually tiring, as it was down hill most of the time, and over loose +rocks and stones, which were very hard on our poor feet. Pararani, a +small stopping-place, was reached about 2 p.m., and as both we and the +animals had just about had enough of it, we decided to remain for the +night. + +We were now right in tropical surroundings, and the beautiful palms and +ferns, not to mention the magnificent butterflies of all colours, were a +grateful contrast to the scenery we had been accustomed to since we left +Sorata. We were now only about two thousand feet above sea level, and +the weather was very hot indeed, mosquitoes and other worrying insects +were very plentiful; but, bad as they can be, they seemed trivial +troubles compared with what we had come through. At this "puesto" we +were better treated, as we obtained vegetables, bananas, and oranges, +and with our tinned stuffs made quite a decent repast. The place was +owned by a Spaniard, and he, along with his wife, cultivates a little +piece of ground, and supplied passing travellers with general rations +for both man and beast. The place was clean in comparison with what we +had been accustomed to, and we seemed to sigh a mutual sigh of content +at our good luck in reaching this "oasis." We rested all afternoon, and +got to bed early, and, although there were rats about, I slept "like a +log," I was so fearfully tired. + +In the morning, however, I awoke refreshed, and with our usual +punctuality got away at 6 o'clock, feeling that at last we were nearing +our journey's end, as we now directed our animals' heads towards +Copacabana, the nearest of the rubber forests belonging to my friend. +This was only three or four leagues off, and the going was somewhat +improved also, so our progress was a good deal faster than usual. During +the greater part of the present journey, the weather, so far, had been +fairly good, that is, taking into consideration the high regions through +which we had come, but we were not fated to be so successful on this our +last day. In fact, we had not gone far, when a really characteristic +tropical shower baptized us properly, and continued during the whole of +the rest of the day, the result being, as may be imagined, that we +arrived at "Copacabana" like the proverbial "drookit mice." As the path +was beneath the trees all the way, we got the full benefit of the rain +dripping from the branches overhanging, which was just like a shower +bath all the time. However, I got into dry clothes, and, I think, felt +when I got into the Estancia house, that after all the "roughing," the +trip was, in part, compensated for by the new experiences I had gone +through, making my way over these very mountainous regions at such a +very high elevation. + +However, I remained for over a year in the rubber districts, and had an +opportunity of seeing how the work is carried on and of judging of the +enormous profit which must result to the lucky owners. Unfortunately, +the climate is of the very worst, and the malaria being of a very +malignant nature, is very hard on white people. I had my full share of +this "terciana," as it is called, and sometimes wonder how I really +managed to work my way to the outside world again. + +In conclusion, let me express a modest hope that the perusal of my +humble effort to put personal adventures on paper may at least convey to +the reader some idea of what has to be experienced if one chooses to be +a wanderer like myself in remote places, and that he or she may to a +certain extent enjoy the result nominally, without going through the +hard work involved in the actual performance. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[F] Allow me to remind the reader that Lake Titicaca is the highest +water in the world which is navigated by steam. + +[Illustration: _Loading Wheat at the Port of Buenos Aires._] + + + + +PROGRESS OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AIRES. + + +The first Custom House built for the port of Buenos Aires was in 1603. +The only work carried out in the harbour up to the end of the eighteenth +century was the construction of thirty-five metres of brick quay-wall at +the site of the "Arsenal" on the Riachuelo. We find that although +between the years 1852 and 1858 many plans were presented for building +of piers, these were only carried into practice and built by the +Government under the technical direction of Engineer E. Taylor; a new +Custom House replacing the fortress, a timber pier for loading and +unloading goods, and another pier for passenger traffic at the locality +of the old mole. In the year 1878 the Riachuelo was first opened for +traffic for sea-going ships, and in 1879, 197 vessels with 55,091 +tonnage had entered the Riachuelo. As early as 1862 Ed. Madero turned +his attention to the question of docks for the port of Buenos Aires, and +in 1865 applied for permission to construct them at his own cost, but +the application was rejected. Four years later he presented another +application, which suffered the same fate. In 1869 the total exports +from Buenos Aires were 397,722 tons, the bulk of which were loaded at +the Riachuelo, and steamers over 100 metres long frequented the harbour +about the time of 1870. It was not until 1882 that Ed. Madero succeeded +in obtaining the concession of building the docks for the port of Buenos +Aires. The docks were to be constructed on the river side of the city, +between the gasworks on the north and the Riachuelo River on the south. + +The trade of the City of Buenos Aires up to the time of the opening of +the South Basin had nearly all been carried on between the shore and the +steamers by lighters and small steam tenders. The usual anchorage for +the ocean steamers was in the "bar anchorage," a distance of about +fourteen miles from the city. The cargoes were transhipped into +lighters, which brought them as near to the shore as possible, and from +this point they were taken to the Custom House in specially-constructed +carts with very large wheels. Passengers were transhipped in the bar +anchorage into small tenders, and were brought to a point about 500 +metres from the end of the passenger mole. From these tenders, when +there was sufficient water, they were taken ashore in small boats, +while, if the water was too low to go alongside the mole, they also had +to be brought ashore in carts. In many cases, however, passengers were +brought on in tenders and landed at the Riachuelo wharves, which were +then under construction. The first steamers that arrived in the River +Plate were those of the Royal Mail Company, followed by the French +Messageries Maritimes, and shortly afterwards by the Lamport & Holt +Line. + +Up to the year 1870 these lines, and a few more that were started, +progressed very slowly, although the rates of freight were then very +high; but after that trade increased gradually, and not only a fair +number of sailing-vessels arrived yearly, but the regular lines of +steamers increased their number of sailings. The great drawback was the +deficient state of the port, where steamers had to lie at a distance of +fourteen to sixteen miles, and most of the sailing-vessels at ten to +twelve miles from the shore. There was no channel dredged, and even the +Riachuelo was so scantily supplied with water that lighters drawing +seven to eight feet were sometimes for weeks prevented from getting out +to deliver their cargo to the sea-going vessels in the outer roads. The +discharge was exclusively effected into lighters, which, apart from the +heavy expense incurred by the receiver of the goods, presented the great +objection that a considerable portion of the cargo was often broached +and pilfered before it reached the shore, claims for which had to be +paid by the ship. Another point was that many of these lighters were old +sailing-vessels or steamers, and, in the unseaworthy and leaky state +they were in, often arrived with their cargo considerably damaged. On +the completion of the South Basin on 28th January, 1889, passengers were +able to embark or disembark with a little more comfort, and cargoes were +landed on the quays. Docks 1 and 2 have each a water area of 23 acres, +being 570 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,420 +metres. No. 3 Dock has a water area of 27 acres, is 690 metres long by +160 metres wide, with a quay length of 1,660 metres. No. 4 Dock has a +water area of 25 acres, is 630 metres long by 160 metres wide, with a +quay length of 1,535 metres. + +All these four docks, when they were originally finished, had a depth of +23 feet 9 inches below low water, so that, however low the river may be, +there should never be less than 23 feet 9 inches in the docks. Since +then dredging has been going on and the docks have been deepened to +receive larger vessels. The docks are united by passages 20 metres in +width, each passage being crossed by a swing bridge. Dock No. 4 is +entered at its northern end by the north lock. This lock opens into the +North Basin, which has a water area of 41 acres and a quay length of +1,409 metres and a depth of 21 feet 3 inches. The total area of the +basins and the four docks is 174 acres, and the total length of quays +8,482 lineal metres. The following are the dates the various basins and +docks were opened to traffic:-- + + South Basin ... ... ... 28th January, 1889 + South Lock, Dock No. 1 ... 31st January, 1890 + Dock No. 2 ... ... ... 26th September, 1890 + Dock No. 3 ... ... ... 31st March, 1892 + Dock No. 4, North Lock, North + Basin, and Graving Docks ... 7th March, 1897 + First half of North Channel... 15th June, 1897 + Second half of North Channel, + buoys and beacons ... ... 31st March, 1898 + +The timber sea-wall was built to a level of 16 feet above low water, and +the stone sea-wall to 19 feet. Originally there were built three sheds +in the South Basin, three sheds and two warehouses in Dock No. 1, two +warehouses and two sheds in Dock No. 2, five warehouses in Dock No. 3, +and four warehouses in Dock No. 4, the total capacity of these sheds and +warehouses being 525,510 cubic metres, and the floor area 192,800 square +metres. Since then, several warehouses have been built, and some burnt +down. The total cost of the harbour works as contracted for by Ed. +Madero was $35,000,000 gold, or, say, about £7,000,000. This includes +the South Basin, Dock No. 1, Dock No. 2, Dock No. 3, Dock No. 4, North +Basin, North Channel, Graving Docks, machinery, etc. + +The following statement shows the total tonnage that passed through the +port of Buenos Aires in 1880, 1890, 1900, and 1909, and clearly shows +the advance made in the last 30 years. + +These figures include steamers and sailing-vessels, and local as well +as foreign trade. + + 1880 ... ... ... 644,750 tons + 1890 ... ... ... 4,507,096 tons + 1900 ... ... ... 8,047,010 tons + 1909 ... ... ... 16,993,973 tons + +In 1909 we find that 2,008 steamers and 137 sailing-vessels entered the +port of Buenos Aires from foreign shores with a tonnage of 5,193,542, +and 1,978 steamers and 129 sailing-vessels left the port for foreign +shores with a tonnage of 5,174,114; out of these, British boats lead +with 2,242 steamers and 37 sailing-vessels, or, say, 53-1/2 per cent, of +the total. + + + + +JUST MY LUCK! + + +I really have had rather bad luck. As you know, I was wrecked on my way +out from the Old Country. The good ship "Southern Cross" met her fate on +a rock in Vigo Bay, and my luggage met its fate at the same time. This +was something of a blow, but I expected to be treated a little more +kindly by fate when once my destination was reached; I would be a +stranger in a new country, and fate is proverbially kind to tyros of +every sort. + +R.M.S.P. "Danube," which carried the shipwrecked passengers of the +"Southern Cross" from Vigo to Buenos Aires, arrived at the Argentine +capital towards the end of January. At the conclusion of my journey, one +of my fellow-passengers, to whom I was saying good-bye, gave me this +sound piece of advice: "Take care of yourself, and the country will take +care of you." I don't suppose I can have taken care of myself, for +within two months I was down with typhoid fever. This is how fate treats +strangers in a new country. + +You know that I had the good fortune, shortly after my arrival, to find +employment with the Santa Fé Land Company, and immediately on my falling +ill, the Manager of the estancia sent me to bed, and reduced me to a +milk diet. Two days later he himself took me down to the Buenos Aires +British Hospital, and it is to this fact, and to the sensible treatment +which I received in camp, that I in great measure owe my quick recovery. +The journey to Buenos Aires was made as comfortable as possible. Even +so, however, I must have been slightly delirious, for I remember +thinking that everybody in the train was wearing a pink shirt without +either coat or waistcoat. This must surely have been a delusion. + +I reached the hospital on a Sunday morning, and was promptly carried +upstairs to a private ward. Though my temperature was now as much as 104 +deg., and my faculties were naturally not at their quickest, I could not +help noticing the cheery look of the ward. There were flowers on the +tables, the patients were obviously well cared for, everything was +scrupulously clean, and the British nurses looked both efficient and +attractive. The scrupulous cleanliness, together with the latest and +most approved methods of treatment, were indeed a feature of the +hospital in all its aspects. + +It was a short time afterwards that one of the doctors, after carefully +diagnosing my case, ordered me to the medical ward, where there would be +greater facilities for giving me a course of baths. In the medical ward +my treatment was as kind and as careful as formerly, but my new +surroundings had for the moment a rather depressing effect. I was just +able to realise that the cases around me were more serious than in the +private ward, and that both doctors and nurses were more grave and +intent on their work. I was soon, however, to become delirious again, +and for the next few days was more or less oblivious to my environment. +After a short time I became more alive to what was happening around me. +We typhoid patients had four cold baths daily, and those patients who in +their normal existence were unaccustomed to one warm bath a week were +somewhat inclined to rebel. This was amusing. My sense of humour was +reviving. The company here was certainly more mixed than in the private +ward--consisting as it did of every class and of every nationality, from +Montenegrin to Turk, but it was not on that account any the less +entertaining. Two or three berths away a brawny Scot of monster +dimensions, who was convalescent after an acute attack of rheumatism, +would every night before getting into bed say, with a certain naïvete, +and without any sense of proportion, that he was going to his "little +nest." And yet people accuse Scotsmen of a lack of imagination. On +either side of me lay a typhoid patient--each delirious. The one on my +right hand imagined he was at home drinking beer in Plymouth, and the +one on my left, an Italian workman, would persistently call for his +boots. It seemed he wished to return to his work and did not think any +other article of dress necessary. The weather at the time was certainly +hot, and this may have suggested such a daring flaunting of the +conventions. It is curious that among typhoid patients this illusion of +doing some action without sufficient clothing is rather prevalent. I +myself at one time imagined that I had been discharged from the hospital +with only the top of my pyjamas and a travelling rug. As I would carry +the travelling rug on my arm, it scarcely compensated for the lack of +other apparel. Through all these vagaries on the part of the patients +the nurses remained kind and careful as ever. This was especially +conspicuous in one case, where a patient insisted that his nurse was a +Chinese pirate, and behaved accordingly, but she gave her charge the +same excellent attention as before. At this time I began to be troubled +with the pangs of a great hunger. After subsisting for five weeks on +milk alone, my food diet began with small doses of cornflour and with +large doses of castor oil, but at last there came a chicken. I shall +never forget that first chicken, nor the nurse who brought it to me. How +I tore those bones--of the chicken, not the nurse--apart, and how I +attacked them in my fingers so that I should not leave any of the good +meat. Eventually my bed in the medical ward was required for a more +serious case than myself, and I was sufficiently well to be returned to +the private ward for a few days of convalescence. The patients here were +certainly more companionable than in the medical ward, and they suffered +from less grave complaints. They were for the most part victims of +accidents, and were all nearly well enough to leave the hospital. In the +evenings we generally had some sort of amusement among ourselves. The +_pièce de resistance_ was more often than not a wrestling match between +the man with the amputated foot and the man who had undergone an +operation for sciatica. As both performers were in ordinary +circumstances compelled to use crutches, their efforts were distinctly +humorous. + +It was after two months of medical treatment that I was able to leave +the British Hospital, and it was only when on the point of leaving that +I realised what we Britishers owe to this institution. + +The building itself is constructed on the most approved designs, it is +fitted with every modern appliance, both medical and surgical; the +treatment is excellent, the percentage of cures remarkable--not a single +case has been lost in the medical ward during the current year; the +doctors are not only experienced, but efficient; and finally, the +nurses--but perhaps I have already dwelt with sufficient emphasis on +their virtues. + +All the same, thank Heaven I return to camp in a week, and may fate deal +more kindly with me in the future. + + + + +"THE TACURU." + + + + +"THE TACURU." + +PATRON SAINT: GEORGE WASHINGTON. + + + + +No. 1. + +_Saturday, March 26th, 1910._ + + +When we consider the already overstocked journalistic world, and +remember the innumerable papers and magazines which greet one at every +street corner and nestle in every armchair, we feel that an apology is +due to our readers (if any) for our temerity in swelling the overflow of +periodicals, but let us assure you our reasons for putting another paper +on the market are purely altruistic. It is no idea of mere gain, or even +a desire for notoriety that urges us to issue "The Tacuru"; we have +undertaken this responsibility because we know that the world would be +the loser did we refuse to give to the public the highly scientific +impressions formed by an extraordinarily intelligent party of pilgrims +during a unique journey into the wild uncultivated northern lands of the +Argentine, especially as some of the most intellectual (the superlative +adverb is well chosen) members of the band have promised to give their +scientific views on the lands through which we shall pass daily. Though +this expedition is only advertised to last a fortnight, yet we have no +intention of closing our paper at the end of that time, for we are +certain that once the public have been educated to appreciate the +high-class literature and useful information which it will be the aim of +"The Tacuru" to supply, we shall have created a demand and interest +which not even Halley's comet can rival, and we shall endeavour to +satisfy that demand daily. Our only fear was that lest the world should +be kept waiting for the publication of our paper, for though everything +was in readiness yesterday for an early start to-day, the elements +seemed inclined to delay us, and when rain had fallen steadily nearly +all day, The Instigator of the trip was seen to clench his jaw yesterday +afternoon, as he remarked "We cannot start till Monday." This fiat +caused dire consternation; the idea of waiting for two days when all +those carts were packed ready for our immediate outset, filled the party +with annoyance, and had it not been for the fact that The Instigator is +a man not to be trifled with, it is possible remonstrances might have +been raised. But, fortunately, each member of the party only possessed +the angelic variety of temper, so no expostulations were made, and peace +was maintained. This unequalled patience under trials was rewarded, and +great was the joy of the party when at 8 p.m. it was found that the rain +had ceased, and the moon shone forth in such a way as to influence The +Instigator to rescind his decision and declare an early start for +to-day. + +Rumour has it that The Jehu and his aide-de-camp and Our Hostess sat up +till 12.30 a.m., finally arranging "places in the carriages, food +supplies, blankets required," and all the innumerable details which made +for the party's comfort. + +Before we publish the impressions, contributed by one member of the +band, on to-day's trip, we think our readers might appreciate a slight +character sketch of each of our "Staff." There are nine Pilgrims. + +FIRST: _The Instigator_. Well, he's right when you know him, but you do +want to know him first. What possessed him to suggest that we should +trek away north, goodness only knows, unless he was fired by a desire to +imitate the Cook-Peary journeys, or it may have been the celebrated +"Cristobal Cocktails" which inspired him to do great deeds. + +We hear that coming out from England he earned a reputation on board +ship as an auctioneer, and once even sold a live lord for a few +shillings to the highest lady bidder. As a camp man he is a marvel, +never seen on horseback, but generally discovered on his hands and knees +fudging about with a thing he calls a pocket microscope, and +occasionally going off into hysterics over some clod of earth, a leaf, +or some weird microbes which he says are feeding on the alfalfa roots. +Talking of feeding, The Instigator can eat anything, his motto is "_tout +jour_"; he has the digestion of an ostrich, and says "it is just as well +to make a good meal while you are about it, for you never know when and +where you will get the next." His best friends cannot say he is musical +(save when others are trying to sleep); but he has a favourite song, and +it is that old music-hall classic entitled "Do, do, be always on the +do." However, he is a very good fellow, and notwithstanding that square +jaw of his, which seems to hint at the possibility of "a man of wrath" +existing in that silent thoughtful being, he is kindness itself to all, +and never fails to do his share of work as it comes along. + +SECOND: _Our Guest_. The Wild Man discovered this _rara avis_ in a +railway carriage, babbling for "Kwilmez Beer," so he was brought along, +and he had not been long at the Estancia before he was running first +favourite in the Popularity Stakes. He was always ready for anything, +and it must have been his desire to acquire knowledge which induced him +to come with the party. The Saint has undertaken to explain to him how +colonists thrive on the 8 per cent. system, and to teach him how many +grains of maize make "ocho." We doubt whether she will succeed in the +latter attempt, for we fancy Our Guest will never leave eight grains of +maize uneaten; he is a wonder for that delicacy, and feeds on it +constantly, and we hear rumours that he intends to take some maize cobs +home with him to his native country, and proposes to feed his "team" on +it. + +THIRD: _The Delineator._ This is a misnomer, he really should be called +"The Photographer," but that sounds so common, and his views are so +uncommon that we called him The Delineator instead; besides, he always +travels about with maps and charts (his own, or someone else's) and when +appealed to as to what course we should take, replies in a cold, hard +voice, "North by North, just as she goes." Like the rest of the party, +he has never travelled quite the road we are going now, but the prospect +of collecting a few new varieties of butterflies, moths, insects, and +plants caused his eyes to light up with a wild gleam when he heard of +the trip, and the yarns he spins of things unseen by the ordinary sober +mortal are ever a joy to the listener, and make them whisper, _se non è +vero è ben trovato._ + +FOURTH: _The Jehu._ There is but one name for a man who handles his +four-in-hand over tree-trunks, tacurus, and tussocks, as our coacher +does. He drives as not even his namesake drove; in rain, in sunshine, in +light, in darkness, over smooth ground or rough, he guides his steeds +with consummate skill and care, which is wonderful to see. After a more +than usually big bump he turns to his passengers with a cheery "All +aboard?"; then gives his attention once more to the animals of which he +is so fond, and in which he takes such pride. His knowledge of the +horses he drives is marvellous. The Jehu is a man of great perception +and information, and has a pleasant knack of being able to convey his +knowledge to others. He and The Instigator have great arguments together +which interest all listeners by day, but the discussions are not +followed with quite so much delight by those who are privileged to hear +them at night, when they often degenerate into a snoring competition. + +FIFTH: _The Wild Man_--had been driven south by stress of weather and +strikes. We should like to say something nice about him, for he always +carries revolvers, knives, and cameras, but we fear that our kindest +remarks may be misunderstood by one so unused to a quiet civilisation +with no revolutions, so we refrain from all personal comments. This +product of a land of luxuriant vegetation has a quaint penchant for +collecting matchboxes (filled), old boots, deer horns, and any odd +things lying about the camp belonging to himself or other people; still +he is always cheerful and content, never grumbles, and can give valuable +information respecting the ways of the natives who look upon him as a +man and a brother. + +SIXTH: _The Chaperon_--has his uses. It will be his business to see that +we are housed, clothed, and fed. The horses and peons will also be under +his care, and if anyone wants to grumble about anything The Chaperon is +the person to abuse. Tent-erecting is what he considers himself to be +very good at; but rumour has it that his best accomplishment is +hairdressing (ladies or gentlemen, English or foreign styles). His +resources know no bounds; he has been seen to fasten up a pair of +leggings with bits of stick. His powers of annexation, both mentally and +materially, are indeed marvellous. He prefers to make his bed on the +bricks or the cold, hard ground, and then enlarges on the comfort +thereof; he generally takes his food standing up, and is always on the +spot ready for any emergency when required. + +SEVENTH: _The Saint_--is a lady who will give away anything in her +possession, save chicken or eggs. Just now she is making donations of +pipes, tobacco, handkerchiefs (her own or The Instigator's), and good +advice on matrimony. She is a person of importance, and is very keen on +collecting knowledge which she is always ready to impart to others; +unfortunately, some of her efforts to improve humanity have not been +absolutely successful, but she is never discouraged, and takes up the +next case on the list with equal enthusiasm. Most of us have to thank +her for some good thing or other. She will do her best to keep every +member of the party up to the mark, physically and mentally. Her +accomplishments are numerous. + +EIGHTH: _My Lady_--is a general favourite; she will look after the lot +of us in her own gracious fashion. Everyone goes to her for advice, +sympathy, or help, which she is always ready to give. Even without her +tea-basket she would be an absolute necessity for the social success of +the trip, for, as the advertisements say of patent sweepers and the +Encyclopaedia Britannica, "no party is complete without" her, so every +one was glad to hear that she had agreed to accompany the northern +pioneers. Those favoured ones who have seen her "on the boards," whisper +that her histrionic genius is marvellous; we, who are not among the +fortunate number, can only say that if her acting equals her talent for +giving (when required) a really concise, lucid description of anything, +it must indeed be wonderful. Her quotations, too, are so ready and apt, +though occasionally they remind us, by their vagueness, of her namesake +and favourite book. + +NINTH: _The Kid_. Why she is brought along, nobody will ever know. It +may have been as a "contrapeso" ("an addition of meat or fish of +inferior quality, thrown in to complete the weight," _vide_ Arturo +Cuyas' Dictionary), but we think she came with the sheep. Anyhow, it was +not until the first part of the journey had been accomplished that she +was discovered bleating in the corner of one of the coaches. We had a +meeting to decide whether she should come on with us or not, and +arranged to put her on the job of tidying up for the trip; but her +hopeless incompetence and ready impertinence to her superior officers, +necessitated instant dismissal without a character. However, as she is +really not worth the trouble of sending back, we locked up the tea tin, +and let her continue the journey on the condition that she will not talk +too much, awake or asleep. With any luck, we may yet lose her somewhere +in the wilds. + + * * * * * + +The one disappointment expressed by all the party was that Our Hostess +decided not to accompany us on the trip, but to await our return at +Cristobal. + +We started out from the estancia house as soon as the ladies' luggage +could be brought downstairs, and we should like to remark, in passing, +that it was a very affecting sight to see Our Guest, The Delineator, and +The Wild Man lifting and carrying heavy boxes and baggage (with no +thought of gain) out to the peons, who, under the able direction of The +Chaperon, loaded them scientifically on to one of the four carts, which, +when ready, were sent on ahead with the nine peons who had been told off +for the trip. Cameras appeared from every available corner as we +prepared to move, and many invaluable photos of the start of the caravan +must have been secured by those who gave us such a hearty send-off. When +at last Our Hostess had put in the final cushion and rug, and provided +us with biscuits and bull's-eyes, and was satisfied that even she could +do nothing more for our comfort, we parted from her with great regret, +promising that she should receive numerous marconigrams concerning our +welfare, and our travels en route. First went off the four-in-hand +driven by The Jehu, who had four members of the party in his care; he +was followed by The Chaperon, who drove a pair, and looked after the +rest of the explorers. + +There is an old saying, "Give a dog a bad name and you may as well hang +him." The truth of this saying has never been better exemplified than +in the case of the Chaco, which long held the reputation of being good +for nothing. Rumour had it that the northern land was useless; life was +impossible there for the white man; indeed, it was supposed that cattle +even could not live there on account of the mosquitoes and garrapata; +and Indians were said to be as thick as flies, and equally disturbing. + +The Santa Fé Land Company has been one of the pioneers who steadily +fought down these reports, and by showing what good cattle could be bred +there, and what crops grown, has gradually opened up the possibilities +of the northern lands to colonists and investors. Slowly but surely +workers came north, first in fear and dread, but later with confidence, +and now the cry is "They come, and still they come." Before we had gone +far on our journey we had an opportunity of conversing with one lately +arrived colonist. A wonderful crop of maize attracted our notice, and we +stopped to speak to the great, jolly, strong-framed Italian who had +grown it. He has moved up from the south with his wife and family, and +his fellow-workmen. They started ploughing, and though it was late in +the season, he was persuaded to try a catch-crop of maize, with the +result that he has to-day banked $5,000, when he never expected to +secure a chance harvest. And so sure is he that the land will repay all +labour and time expended upon it that he is anxious to take up a league +and colonize it with his fellow-countrymen. + +It is the same story all through the northern lands; anyone with pluck, +adaptability and grit can do what this man has done: indeed hard work +and perseverance will as amply reward the labourer in the northern lands +as they have done in the south. The sight of this great crop of valuable +maize, on land which a few months before was a mere waste, brings the +words of the Psalmist forcibly to one's thoughts, for surely of no +country could it more truly be said than of the Argentine, "Dwell in +the land, and be doing good, and, verily, thou shalt be fed"; and +perhaps there are few countries in which there are less openings for the +man whose mind is not set towards "doing good": the Argentine has little +room for the shirker. + +[Illustration: _Horses awaiting Inspection._] + +The rain of yesterday relieved us from the trials of dust on our +journey, but it also made the going very heavy, and instead of +travelling for the usual two hours before relieving horses, we were +obliged to make an early stop for a change. This is always an +interesting sight, for the animals are so well trained. Our total number +is 87, and when a halt is called, these animals are all lined up in a +row, generally against a wire fence. At the word of command they range +themselves, backed close against the fence in a long line with their +heads outwards. Packed tightly together they await the inspection of +their master, who chooses the animals he requires, and as they are +standing thus they allow themselves to be haltered up and led quietly +away from the line to be harnessed. Their training is wonderful, but it +is really amusing to watch the expression of the horses as they stand in +a row while the selection takes place, they seem to be saying "Please, +sir, not I this time." Where no wire fence is available, the peons +stretch a rope or lasso out, and the horses will line up against that in +the same manner. During our first change of horses, unexpected +excitement occurred. The Saint perceived a plaid horse--at least this is +what she called it, and we believed it to be German for piebald +horse--from which a peon had dismounted. This horse must have reminded +her of the circus-riders of her childhood (or possibly her action was +owing to temporary aberration); anyhow, without a word of warning, she +leapt astride the native saddle and gave a short display of how it +should be done. However, fortunately from her point of view, though +disappointingly from that of the spectators, the piebald animal had not +been trained to circus tricks, and only quietly ambled along for a few +yards, during which time the cameras came into full play. After The +Saint had been persuaded to dismount, and the horses were harnessed up, +an onward move was made, and it was not long before we met our host for +the day. He had ridden to the furthest outposts of his section to join +us, and under his guidance we were conducted to two or three spots, +where The Instigator inspected rodeos of animals in his charge. + +We arrived at the Section house of Polvareda about midday, and found +that our host had prepared an alarmingly sumptuous repast for his influx +of visitors: as course followed course, roast ducks dodged the turkey, +and were pursued by plum pudding, etc., we began to wonder if our host +thought that meal would have to last us for the fortnight of our trip. +But we discovered that he came from the West of England, and had not +forgotten the ideas of hospitality current in that part of the world. +Rumour had it that he himself had been seen carrying about pails of +scalded milk at 4 a.m. This proceeding explains the delicious Devonshire +cream and butter we are enjoying. + +The afternoon was spent in driving or riding round the section to +inspect various windmills, more groups of cattle, wells, fencing, and +new alfalfa, etc. Our host, as we were driving round, took the +opportunity for giving us a short, successful exhibition of buck-jumping +with his steed, whether willingly or not, neither he nor history +mentions. At eventide, another excellent repast was provided, and The +Saint was so impressed by the catering and culinary skill of our host, +that she decided to inaugurate a prize to be won by the bachelor +estanciero who shall provide the best meals for the hungry nomads during +the trip; certainly our host for to-day has put the standard very high +for the other competitors. A short telephonic communication was held +during dinner with Our Hostess at Cristobal, and "All's well" was +reported on both sides. + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: _Stacking Alfalfa._] + +[Illustration: _Alfalfa Elevator at Work._] + + * * * * * + +"THE TACURU." + +No. 2. + +_Sunday, March 27th, 1910._ + + +The party did not sit up late last night; they had a short talk on the +verandah for the sake of digestion, and then all retired to bed, but +alas! not to rest. Foolishly they had imagined that mosquitoes were +things of the past, and no nets were put up, with the result that one +and all soon learnt that for fresh blood and newcomers there was a +plethora of these little demons waiting with their irritating song, +sting, and bite: from some of the party we learn complaints of other +songs, more human, and more nasal, and it is believed that it was Our +Guest who was heard at midnight to be murmuring the chorus of a +favourite song, viz., "Hush, boys! No noise! Silence ebryting! Listen, +and you'll hear de little angels sing." At least it says "angels" in the +song, but the word Our Guest used sounded like "demons," but probably he +was dreaming of the "ping" of bullets and the roar of battle as the +snores resounded through the room, or, one might almost say, through the +house. Very early this morning there were cries for The Chaperon: he was +wanted to tell the time; he was wanted to bring water for ablutions; he +was wanted to tell us when breakfast would be ready; he was wanted to +give advice or remedies for mosquito bites, and, in general, for a short +space of time, he justified his existence. When at last the members of +the party had collected themselves from all sorts of odd corners, +coffee (with the addition of bacon and eggs, and several other things) +was served, and the interval, before the order "All aboard" was issued, +was chiefly occupied in observing and discussing the effects of our +first night's experience of bichos. Our Guest, after due deliberation, +laid down some useful rules for future guidance, the chief being, "Never +be without a Mosquitero": his face and head were literally enlarged on +this point, and he assured us that a mosquito's proboscis is an +impressive point. Apparently The Kid, too, would have liked to give her +views on mosquitoes and their ways, but her uninteresting remarks were +cut short by The Wild Man's order of "kennel up," and, given a bottle of +cana, she seemed quite happy. Our Guest seemed to have an impression, +also, that someone had blundered. He knew someone had slumbered (some +had not), and plaintively he begged that he might be allowed in future +to sleep at one estancia further ahead of the rest of the party. + +Most of the nomads had had some slapping acquaintance with mosquitoes +during the night, and the showing of bites, swellings, lumps, etc., only +ended when The Jehu ordered the bugle to be sounded for an onward move. +We were well under way before half the lamentations had been entered in +the station complaint book. + +Bidding adieu to Polvareda, where the green fields of alfalfa show the +march of progress, we pushed forward, but as we left we were unable to +decide whether it was a desire to escape observation (and, perhaps, the +too-effusive thanks of the lady members of the party), or a violent +toothache, which caused our host to conceal himself in a huge blanket +wrapped around his head as we left, but we fear it was toothache that +necessitated the extra wrappings. + +[Illustration: _The Green Fields of Alfalfa_.] + +We had not gone far on our journey before we crossed the bridge over Las +Conchas. The manager of the next section met us soon afterwards, and we +inspected the cattle on his domains. On our way from Polvareda to +Michelot we passed the emporium of the Universal Provider of the North, +in other words, "the stores," where most of the necessities and many of +the luxuries of life can be obtained. The Saint can never resist the +desire of a bargain, and others of the party were anxious to see all +that the stores contained, so we made a halt and inundated the building, +where everything was extraordinarily neat and clean, shelves piled high +with bales of bright-coloured cottons, cloths, and handkerchiefs; hats +hanging in long lines, brilliant saddle-cloths, pipes, knives, tobacco, +axes, leather goods and harness, every variety of tinned foods, barrels +of flour, sugar, etc., all arranged with precision, and showing +cleanliness and method at every turn. Some men were sitting on the +benches, smoking and drinking and chatting together, for apparently "the +stores" constitutes the local rendezvous and news agency for miles +around. + +The Saint at once made purchases, for no place is stamped on her memory +unless she has spent money there. She wanted to make the whole party +presents of hats, handkerchiefs, or pipes, but she was restrained, and +ultimately satisfied her generosity by choosing the best saddle-cloth +the establishment could supply, and one or two hats. We went into the +living-rooms of the storekeeper, and found the same attractive neatness +there. A gramophone occupied a side table, and skins and pictures were +hanging on the walls. The storekeeper's wife and her sister were +attractive Englishwomen; there were two or three children running about, +but none of them could speak anything but their father's native +language. After this inspection we drove on, and we are glad to be able +to register the fact that Our Guest for once acted up to the first part +of the old adage, "Earn sixpence a day and live up to it." The Jehu's +coach had stayed behind for a while, to allow The Instigator to observe +and note a great many things which were no business of his at all, and +the peons had likewise remained, but The Saint, having fulfilled her +mission of purchasing whenever possible, was content, and anxious to get +on to the Section house for a rest before her afternoon ride, so The +Chaperon drove on with his coach, and we are assured, on what we +consider good authority, that when Our Guest perceived a closed gate in +the way, and no peon at hand, he leapt from the carriage (perhaps "flew" +would be a better word) and opened that gate. Possibly he had been fired +with ambition to earn money while inspecting those crimson and blue +handkerchiefs at the stores, for we know he appreciates "colours"; but, +whatever his motive, he _did_ open that gate, and let it be recorded to +the honour of his fellow-passengers that his action was not allowed to +pass unappreciated or unrewarded. When all the party were collected at +Michelot estancia house, lunch was served on the verandah by a +dour-looking Oriental, who apparently combined the duties of cook and +parlourmaid in his own somewhat yellow person, and very well he +performed his task, but as he went silently about his business of +serving this large party, which he did with a slow precision and +apparent utter disregard of his master's orders, he reminded us +irresistibly of the soi-disant American definition of "Life," and we +began to wonder whether it were not a Chinaman who summed up existence +in the words, "After all, Life is only one d----d thing after another." + +[Illustration: _Herd of Cattle._] + +A short siesta followed lunch, and after an early tea everyone mounted +horses or carriages and went forth to see the sights of the +Section--everyone, that is to say, save The Chaperon, who had other work +to do; he it was who discovered and averted what might have been a +disaster. Some members of the party were quite content as long as they +were given three cups of tea, others fancied cocktails, and some babbled +for cocoa. It was suddenly found that the supply of this last useful +article was running short. The Kid not being a cocoa-drinker, casually +suggested filling up the tin with tannin extract or dust; she said "it +looked the same and nobody need smell it," but The Chaperon declined to +resort to subterfuges and rode off to the stores to supply a deficiency +caused by his own lack of attention. + +At Michelot, as at Polvareda, great progress has been made of late +years, alfalfa laid down, fences and wells made, and the cattle are +improving yearly. Our last sight, before the inspection for the day was +finished, was a wonderful rodeo of 3,000 cattle, which we viewed from +the vantage point of the banks of a newly made reservoir. It was a +striking picture, which will not easily be erased from the memory of +those who saw it. The cattle, with their long continuous lowing, were +rounded up below us, and away on the horizon the sun was setting with +the glory one never sees better elsewhere than over a plain, leaving, as +it rapidly sank from sight, marvellous shades of gold and crimson on the +fantastically shaped clouds. Save for the animals and their drivers just +around us, the whole vast space seemed so still and empty, yet on every +hand were traces of man's labour and skill, conquering a tract of land +which was almost valueless a few short years back. + +On our return to the house we found dinner for us on the verandah. This +was a delightfully cool method of taking food, but rather apt to attract +beasties, and although the philosophers and friends of the party +arranged the lights to keep away insects as much as possible, and +succeeded in their efforts, some members of the party preferred to take +no risks and dined with veils wrapped around their heads, only leaving +their mouths available. The Wild Man caused some excitement before we +sat down to dinner by introducing us to a beast he called a "railway +insect." It certainly strongly resembled a railway train, with its green +light on its head, red at the tail, and luminous yellow lights all over +its caterpillar-like body; it was a most interesting discovery, and the +Wild Man went up in everyone's estimation for a few minutes. The +Oriental again served us with silent steadiness. It was suggested that +one of our "boys" should assist him in the task of waiting on the party +of twelve, but notwithstanding the fact that he had been told he might +kick round any boy he chose to make an assistant, he waived aside all +outside help with the words "no good," and continued on his way +imperturbably. + +The Instigator, with The Delineator and The Jehu, had a long discussion +after dinner on various Argentine subjects too deep for the ordinary +mortal, though The Wild Man and The Chaperon seemed to be trying to take +an intelligent interest in the conversation. Our Guest sat silent, +looked sad, and on being offered a penny for his thoughts, he murmured +that he was wondering whether he would be allowed any sleep to-night. +Doubtless he felt wearied, because, as it is Sunday, The Chaperon had +been allowed to take a half-day off for his own amusements, and Our +Guest, perhaps stimulated by his financial success of the morning, +offered to fulfil the duties of chaperon during his absence; but we +regret to say that we cannot candidly advise Our Guest to take up +chaperoning as a means of livelihood, for though willing and tactful, he +lacks the long training and apprenticeship necessary for continual +service in this arduous work. + +The ladies seemed happier, for they had noted the mosquito nets over +each bed in their room, and they looked forward to a peaceful night. We +had our usual communication with Our Hostess over the telephone before +retiring, and received and gave satisfactory reports from both sides. + +A correspondent wishes to know if any of our readers can name the author +of these lines:-- + +"Heaven gives sleep to the bad, in order that the good may be +undisturbed." He would also like to know if this generally accepted +quotation is quite correct, or whether the "un" is a misprint. Replies +to "O.G.," c/o THE TACURU. + +Owing to the innumerable applications which we have received for +advertising space in our widely circulated periodical, we have decided +to open our columns to advertisements at the rate of 50 cents per line, +applications to be sent to "The Advertisement Editor," THE TACURU +Offices, c/o The Jehu, First Coach. All orders must be prepaid. + + * * * * * + +ADVERTISEMENTS. + +WANTED.--Bricklayers who can build straight.--Apply Manager, Michelot. + +RIDING TAUGHT by a lady, side-saddle or astride; fees go to +Charity.--Apply "T.S.," c/o TACURU Offices. + +BOOT CLEANING undertaken in best style. Gents', per pair, $1; Ladies', +per pair, for the asking.--Orders received by "T.C.," Offices of this +Paper. + + * * * * * + + + + +"THE TACURU." + +No. 3. + +_Monday, March 28th, 1910._ + +Owing to the care with which the mosquito nets had been put up, there +were few complaints of bites when the party assembled for breakfast, but +the conversation chiefly degenerated into an argument on phonetics. The +different rooms held various views on the harmonizing of sounds. Had it +been a glee competition we should undoubtedly have given the award to +the verandah party. Sleeping on the bricks seems to bring out the +sweetness of a treble voice as nothing else can do. The Saint and My +Lady both remarked that they were very fond of music, but they could not +appreciate being awakened from their beauty sleeps, by the announcement +in a raucous voice of "No, thank you." They do not wish for a moment to +imply that The Kid was not perfectly justified in refusing whatever she +did refuse, but they would like her in future to confine her +conversations to the daytime if possible, and to leave their nights in +peace. It was a happy thought on the part of The Jehu to suggest a +picnic at the Waters Meet to-day, before our forward move on to Los +Moyes, and after breakfast we started out. First we went to inspect the +site where the new house is to be built, then on to the pretty little +monte near by, where some picturesque photographs were taken of the +cavalcade of riders. We paused in this tiny monte, for it is an +intensely interesting spot from a botanical point of view, and with care +and attention should be so for some years to come. In an extraordinary +small compass this wood contains more varied specimens of trees than one +would ordinarily see in a day's journey. So on to Waters Meet. Here one +is afforded an opportunity for studying the watershed of this portion of +Argentina. Three rivers meet here, the Concha, the Calchaqui, and the +Northern Salado. The latter is the only perennial river in that region; +it rises in the snowy peaks of the Andes, in the province of Salta, +miles away, and it is not to be wondered at, that, though it is a +slow-moving river and meanders through the Gran Chaco, in the times of +floods its swollen waters overflow their banks and flood immense tracts +of land. Thomas Page, an American Admiral, in the year 1855, navigated +this river from its junction with the Parana to the spot where we were +to-day, but when he went up it there was so little water in the river +that he had to give up the idea of continuing his pioneer task of +exploration. It had been his intention to open up the river for trade, +and there is no reason why this should not be done at some future date. +The Calchaqui goes under different names at various places. It rises on +the great swamps on the North-East of the Santa Fé Land Company's +territory, and flows through a chain of lakes and cañadas until it runs +into the huge laguna "Del Palmar," and thence along what used to be the +Eastern boundary of the Santa Fé Land Company's lands, until it joins +the Salado. + +The Calchaqui must drain at least 150,000 acres of land, and the Rio +Concha has a watershed of about 60 or 70 thousand acres. It is not known +what the area of the watershed of the Salado is, but it must be immense; +therefore it can be understood that the meeting-place of the waters of +these three rivers is an interesting spot geographically, and we were +all glad to have seen it. On our arrival at the Water Meet we had our +first introduction to the native "asado," and we all hoped it would not +be the last. The peons collected (apparently from nowhere), in less time +than it takes to write about, sticks and odds and ends for a fire, over +the ashes of which they broiled the meat, holding it over the heat on +long skewers of wood. The meat was brought to us cooked, still on these +skewers, and each one cut off, or had cut off for them by The Jehu, the +portion he or she preferred, and a very hearty and merry meal was made +by all. The resulting silence of repletion was only broken by a murmur +from The Saint of "My heart is full," which sentiment, anatomically +amended, was echoed by all. + +[Illustration: _Expanse of Alfalfa_.] + +When active exertion was once more possible everyone repaired to the +banks of the Waters Meet, and a spot being found where there were no +dead fish lying about, the ladies (under the tutorship of Our Guest and +The Jehu) indulged in a little rifle-shooting at bottles. We fear that +we cannot record any marvellous marksmanship on their part, for the +bottles were still bobbing about on the water when the ladies' party +retraced their steps to the "camp." A cup of tea was suggested before +the returning drive, and it was thought possible (though not probable) +that The Kid might be useful on this occasion. However any hopes in this +direction were speedily dispelled when (after a great deal of noise and +talk) she appeared with a thick black liquid, which proved absolutely +undrinkable. True it was poured from a tea-pot, but anything less like +"tea" as one usually meets it at 5 o'clock, could scarcely be imagined, +and the air seemed full of the unspoken query, "Has everyone a use in +this world?" The drive back to the estancia house was as pleasant as +that of the morning, and there we found the Chinaman (who, owing to the +strenuous exertions of The Chaperon, now appeared with considerably less +hair, and obviously a more swollen head), had gauged correctly the +incompetency of The Kid, in the brewing of his native beverage, and +consequently had prepared a beverage which might pass for tea, and was +enjoyed by all. After this refreshment a move was made, the luggage had +gone on, and the party followed in their two coaches. We now began to +approach a more pleasing country, and drove through little montes of +scrub and trees, with a few bright-coloured verbena and cacti growing +near the ground, making a brave show, and that larger optunia, the +prickly pear, with its silver grey appearance and the bright crimson of +its fruit showed up occasionally against the low trees. Altogether, the +land had a more homelike and less expansive appearance, as it was broken +up by these little groups of trees. It was a glorious drive. We were +favoured with another exquisite sunset which shed weird and beautiful +light over this strangely quiet and empty country. As the four-horse +char-à-banc had started some minutes ahead of the more modest two-horse +vehicle, it was to be supposed that it would reach the destination, Los +Moyes, first, and we hear that there was some consternation expressed by +the party of the smaller coach when, on their arrival they found that +nothing had been heard, or seen, of the more ambitious vehicle. However, +The Chaperon on being appealed to, impassively murmured "They're all +right," and started to give orders for unloading, and putting up beds +and generally arranging matters as if the section house belonged to him, +and this callousness on his part, we are told, calmed the others +sufficiently to allow of their enjoying the remnants of the sunset, +undisturbed by any thoughts of the horrible fates which might (but were +not likely to) have overtaken their companions. + +Certainly Los Moyes section house is most prettily situated, with an +expanse of alfalfa beyond the little front garden, and trees in the +distance opening to show a glimpse of the smallest lake. There are three +of these lakes not far from the house, and fishing is carried on, by +means of spearing, in their waters. Long after the last trace of sunset +had faded from the sky, The Jehu appeared with his coach, and a rush was +made by the hosts of Los Moyes, and their earlier arrivals, to ascertain +the cause of this delay. All anxiety was quickly allayed by one glance +at the face of The Instigator. He was exuberant with joy. The rest of +the occupants of the coach seemed rather less excited, and more weary, +as they explained that The Instigator had sighted in the far offing a +steam plough, and despite murmurs of "the dinner waits and we are tired" +from The Delineator and The Wild Man, he insisted on investigating that +plough, in fact on trying it himself, and it was with difficulty he was +persuaded to return to the coach, and continue the drive home. We +believe the credit for this latter achievement is due to The Delineator, +who, with tact worthy of a diplomat, suggested that if an early return +to the ploughing were made next morning, photos could be obtained of the +machine and its work. This bait was successful, and The Instigator was +gently enticed away with promises of "to-morrow." + +[Illustration: _Disc-Plough at Work._] + +[Illustration: _Roadmaker and Railroad Builder_.] + +After everyone was assured that everyone else was safe, The Instigator +came back from his Elysium, dreamily to finish the quotation of The +Delineator and The Wild Man with "Said Gilpin, So am I," and we all sat +down to dinner, during which meal much merriment was caused by a +difference of opinion between The Saint and her host on "dogs and +species of dogs." Our enemies, the mosquitoes, were not so virulent as +usual to-night, perhaps owing to the eucalyptus trees which are growing +near the house; anyhow the party could venture to sit out after dinner +on the verandah, which was already covered with beds for the +accommodation of some of the party. Thus, with an audience seated on +chairs and beds, The Instigator talked of the plough and of its +marvellous work in opening up hitherto unused tracts of land. Want of +labour has retarded development considerably, and until quite recently +the northern camps were very much handicapped by the lack of labourers, +and of men with brains to guide the labour. Not only was there a +deficiency of men, but often so many of the working bullocks were +drafted off to the forests for timber haulage, that it left a sparseness +of them for agricultural purposes. The remedy, however, presented itself +by the utilisation of the traction engine. The breaking-up of fresh +lands has always been the trouble facing the colonist. + +In dry weather it is almost impossible to get the plough, drawn by horse +or bullock, into the ground, and the drought so punishes the working +animals that often when rain comes they are too weak for their work, and +the colonist is unable to take the best advantage of the season, but +mechanical ploughing obviates all this, and gives him the virgin land in +such a condition that with the means at hand he is able to cultivate an +area sufficiently large to ensure him success. + +As we sat thus on the verandah in the moonlight, plans were made for the +following day. It was decided that a visit to the plough should occupy +the morning, and a row on the lake, or ride round it, the afternoon, +before proceeding to Lucero. Fishing was spoken of, but we could not +manage everything in the short time we had at our disposal at Los Moyes, +so we found that probably the fishing would have to be given up. Thus, +in the security of the possession of clear consciences and mosquito +nets, the party retired to rest. + + * * * * * + +Prepaid advertisements received at the office of this paper before 6 +p.m. will be inserted in the next day's issue. + +"M.L." writes in answer to "O.G." that the quotation he gives is from +the writing of the Persian poet Sâdi. The quotation is quite correct, +for though Sâdi travelled for a great number of years in Europe, Asia, +and Africa, he never travelled with the present Company in the +Argentine, therefore he did not realise that the sleep of the bad could +disturb the good. Modern thought is inclined to differ from his views. + + * * * * * + +ADVERTISEMENTS. + +LOST.--Two rubber sponges and two blankets. When finished with, please +return to the Manager, Michelot. + +£10 REWARD.--Lost, one pearl-drop ear-ring; may be under the carpet. +Finder will be rewarded as above, on returning same to "T.S.," Offices +of this Paper. + + * * * * * + +"THE TACURU." + +No. 4. + +_Tuesday, March 29th, 1910._ + +This morning, alas! did not fulfil the promise of last night's sunset, +for a drizzling rain was falling when the party collected for breakfast, +and we were afraid that not only would the fishing expedition be +impossible, but also that the ploughing inspection might have to be +postponed, and all were anxious, after the enthusiasm of The Instigator, +to see that engine at work. Our host had sent some men out in the early +morning to secure fish for our delectation, but they were unable to +spear more than one, and this large aquatic animal was now hanging up +under the verandah, causing a great deal of interest to the various +curious members of the band; needless to say, The Instigator was busy +divesting the fish of scales, examining them under his ubiquitous +microscope, and insisting on everyone observing the marvels of Nature +shown in this manner. We think that this was the psychological moment +when the rest of the party began to appreciate the powers of that +microscope, and insinuations were made to the owner that it would be a +pity to take such a beautiful pocket instrument back to Europe, in case +any accident should happen to the boat during the voyage, and the +microscope be lost. + +The Delineator and The Wild Man appeared to be the chief favourites for +the prize, and knowing the acquisitive propensities of The Chaperon, all +were surprised to note his passiveness during the competition; however, +he explained his inertia by saying that his sleep had been disturbed by +visions for which no microscope was needed. He offered to sketch what he +had seen, but could give no more definite description in words than +"figures on the blind" and "streaming hair," so he was left alone to +recover his nerve. The Jehu then pointed out that his prophecy had +proved correct, and the misty rain had blown off, leaving a clear sky +and fine weather, so a start was made _en masse_ for the scene of the +ploughing operations. A slight lameness on the part of one of the steeds +made it necessary for the smaller coach to return for change of animals +after a few hundred yards. The Wild Man occupied the few minutes of this +delay to the best possible advantage. The owner of the house and +chattels was away, and The Wild Man, stimulated by The Chaperon made a +very productive tour of the rooms and verandah, resulting in great +satisfaction to himself. + +When the coach was ready with fresh horses, and The Wild Man had +satisfied himself that nothing of value had escaped his observation, +another move forward was made, and on arriving at the ground the smaller +party found that the occupants of the first coach were already on the +plough, having ousted the colonists for the time being. This plough was +working on rough virgin ground, turning over more land in one hour than +two men and four horses can do in England in a whole day. Each member of +the party took their turn on the plough, and enjoyed the pleasure +derived from turning over the untouched soil, and of feeling that they +were helping to start the development of Nature's truest source of +wealth. The engine was drawing twenty disc-ploughs, and could plough +twenty-eight to thirty acres of land a day, week in and week out. + +Until recent years land in the Argentine Republic has been ploughed in +small areas by animal labour, the farmer or colonist often employing the +members of his family to assist him, and thus saving expense. Owing, +however, to the immense harvests and the vast tracts of country awaiting +development, it has become necessary to work on a much bigger scale, and +to bring in the aid of machinery. In some places the ordinary form of +steam plough has presented many practical disadvantages. They are heavy +and unwieldy, and apt to sink in soft ground, from which they are +extricated with difficulty. This is likely to cause damage, or more +serious accidents, through explosion. Further, they require a constant +train of water-carts and fuel wagons, and a staff of at least six +persons to work them. At the spot where this engine was working the +latter objections were obviated, as both wood and water were plentiful. +In general, these difficulties are largely overcome by the adoption of +the naphtha motor engine, which has been brought to a state of +considerable perfection in Great Britain and the United States. It can +be employed not only for ploughing and threshing, but also for traction, +excavation, and embankment work, etc. An engine and plough will break up +one hectarea of camp per hour, and some of these machines with two +relays of workmen will break 108 hectareas per week. In a month of only +twenty-three working days they will break up a league of camp. + +[Illustration: _Ploughing Virgin Camp._] + +The price of naphtha is gradually decreasing in the Argentine Republic, +and the oil wells of the country will probably make the cost of fuel +even less by-and-by than it is to-day. + +Areas of fertile camp, which have hitherto lain fallow, owing to their +being intersected by canadas, and difficult to get at, can now be +treated by the motor plough, with the result that their value will +rapidly rise. In an actual case near the Central Cordoba Railway, people +are to-day offering $118 per hectarea for land which was bought two +years ago for $25 per hectarea, but during the two years it has been +thoroughly ploughed and drained by mechanical means. + +In nearly all the northern lands small trees grow irregularly all over +the camp, and in order to plough the land these trees must be dug up. +Machines are manufactured in the United States to deal with land +containing tree roots. They perform the double operation of cutting +roots under ground and ploughing up the surface, but they have not yet +been introduced into the Argentine in large numbers. Other machines dig +holes for fence posts at the rate of fifty holes per hour, and they can +be so accurately gauged that the posts may be firmly fixed without +expending much labour in ramming. + +The naphtha engine is likewise used with great advantage for traction +purposes. A striking instance of this is to be found at Rio Gallegos, +where many naphtha engines are engaged in the work of carrying wool over +a track of more than 300 kilometres, a feat which would be quite +impossible with animal labour, owing to the rocky and broken condition +of the roads. + +As the Santa Fé Land Company owns a great diversity of land, they have +used both the steam traction and the naphtha engines, and time will show +which machine is to be recommended. + +It is a pity that the agricultural implement importers of Buenos Aires +should have recently formed themselves into a ring to lift prices, +because their doing so will certainly tend to lessen the progress which +agriculture is making in the Argentine. These combinations, however, +will not deter the Company from continuing its "march of progress," but +it comes hard on the colonist, who, after all, is the chief factor in +building up the fortunes of the great importing houses of Buenos Aires. + +One of the greatest competitors of the British-built traction engine is +the Hart-Parr oil engine, a splendid agricultural tool, which is +invaluable where ordinary fuel is not easily procurable. + +It was with great difficulty The Instigator could be persuaded to leave +the plough, and at one time his enthusiasm (and the engine) carried him +out of sight, and those remaining at the starting-point grew speculative +as to whether he would return before dark. However, a recommencement of +drizzling rain apparently cooled his ardour, and restored him to the +party. The nomads gladly turned their thoughts and coaches towards the +section house, realising as they went the sweet truth of the words, "The +ploughman homeward plods his weary way." Lunch awaited them, and the +fish of the morning appeared in a more pleasant guise, to be enjoyed by +all. After lunch, the rain showing no signs of clearing off, the party +had to give up all idea of the lake proper, but watched one form in +front of the house instead, and wondered how it would be negotiated when +the time came for an onward move. So they sat on chairs, baggage and +benches under the verandah, and tried to keep awake, while observing +the steady downpour. One member of the party at last gave up the +struggle against the inevitable, and sank gracefully into the arms of +Morpheus, represented by the bags of biscuits and other impedimenta. A +photo was secured of him as he lay half concealed amongst the +portmanteaux, packages and "pan." We refrain from publishing it, because +the chief feature of the picture is in the boots of the sleeper. (We +trust no weak humour is intended in the preceding paragraph?--EDITOR.) + +[Illustration: _Hart-Parr Engine, drawing Roadmaker_.] + +A slight diversion was caused by a repacking of some goods after lunch. +It seems that the bottles, with contents (a most important item), had +been forgotten, and The Wild Man was approached with a request that the +bottles might be transported to Lucero in his bag; of course, he +cheerily acquiesced, but as the whole of the contents of his bag had to +be turned out to pack the bottles scientifically, and as that bag +happened to be the same receptacle in which The Wild Man had secreted +the various articles collected during his tour of appreciation this +morning, developments were interesting to all, save to the man who had +laboured under the delusion that several horns and other articles which +appeared from the bag, were still in his own possession. However, +probably remembering The Wild Man's character (_vide_ page 205), he said +nothing, but calmly looked on as his goods were repacked and removed +from his sight for ever. All honour to such unselfishness. + +After a cup of tea and farewells, the ladies were transferred to the +coaches in a highly skilled manner, and a damp drive to Lucero followed. +One sheet of drizzling rain surrounded us all through the journey, and +none were sorry when, after a side slip or two, the coaches drew up (not +before it was quite dark) outside the estancia house. A change into dry +garments was very welcome, and there was to be noticed for the first +time since the start of the Tacuruers, a dull air of respectability +over the party, as they collected for their evening meal. + +Shirt fronts and pretty frocks appeared once more, for here we had a +lady presiding over the table. Still the old proverb proved true "Fine +feathers do not make fine birds," and some members of the party did not +live up to their costumes. It may have been the good dinner, or the +genial glow of a fire that upset their behaviour, but the fact remains +that there were two or three unusual occurrences during the course of a +merry meal. The Kid was observed to be burying her face in a spoonful of +jelly, and others seemed to be performing a sort of a general post +during the repast. However, all ended well, and after coffee various +home pets were introduced by our hostess, who is a devoted lover of +animals. A nutria appeared and some friendly dogs, and we heard of tame +foxes and diminutive ponies to be seen next day. It was a great regret +to everyone that The Delineator did not put in an appearance for dinner; +he pleaded headache and retired to bed early, perhaps in the hope of +getting some sleep before The Instigator came to share the room. + + * * * * * + +ADVERTISEMENTS. + +HARD CASE NO. 1.--"T.K." writes to inquire the proper procedure under +the following circumstances:--"A lady receives a plate of jelly at +dinner, the gentleman on her right at once takes up her spoon and +commences to feed her with the jelly." What should she do? And if she +allows herself to be fed, is it etiquette, this year, for the gentleman +on her left to give her a slight push, which results in her nose meeting +the jelly in the spoon? We offer the problems to our readers, and a +prize will be awarded for the best solution sent in. + +LOST.--One pair deer's horns, nicely coloured. If this advertisement +meets the eye of T.W.M. the owner would be very glad to have the horns +returned to Michelot, but does not wish to make a point of it. + +FOUND.--The reward of £10 for lost ear-ring is withdrawn; owner found +lost property herself, and has paid for her advertisement. + + * * * * * + + + + +"THE TACURU." + +No. 5. + +_Wednesday, March 30th, 1910._ + + +Much to everyone's relief The Delineator appeared at breakfast looking +himself again; he replied to the enquiries showered upon him that his +indisposition could be explained in the words used by Herbert Spencer, +when he defined life as "The continuous adjustment of internal relations +to external relations." The Delineator said that that formula, when one +considered the various cookings, including the Oriental style we had +lately sampled, exactly described the cause of his passing illness, from +which he was now happily recovered. + +The morning was bright, and nothing but the drying mud remained to +remind us of the rains of yesterday. At breakfast some strange tales +were told of a frightened nutria which generally slept peacefully under +a wardrobe in the dressing-room; but last night the room had another +occupant, whose sleep was not so peaceful as that of the nutria, and at +the first sound of a snore the poor animal was so scared that it leapt +from its usual bed and rushed round the room till it found a way of +escape, through the window, to a more restful soot. + +Cattle-dipping was to be the sight of the morning, and as soon as the +out-door menagerie was explored, under the guidance of our hostess, who +has a wonderful knack with all animals, the coach and cavalcade of +riders set forth to the scene of operations. Here we found a large +number of animals ready to be dipped. This process is necessary to clean +the animals from the garrapata. This is a tick which has been, and still +is, the terror of the north. It is the means of transmitting to cattle +the disease known as "Texas Fever." The rough native cattle do not +suffer badly from this fever, but any newly imported fine stock from the +south generally succumb to it. + +Time after time wealthy men who realized the menace this pest was to the +north have attempted to fight it, but their efforts have not been +successful. Often their loss has been immense, sometimes as many as 95% +of the total animals brought into the neighbourhood from the Province of +Buenos Aires have died. + +Undoubtedly these constant failures helped to give the northern district +a bad name, but the experiments with the animals should have been +carried on by means of acclimatisation. Animals for the north should be +carefully handled, and with constant vigilance, adapted to their +surroundings. These are the principles on which the Santa Fé Land +Company have been working, and they confidently predict that before long +they will be selling pedigree bulls with tick on them. When this is an +accomplished fact, another great barrier to the progress of the north +will have been broken down. + +The cattle tick has two phases in its life. + +[Illustration: _Cattle leaving Dip._] + +After establishing itself on the animal, the tick becomes a blood +sucker, and at certain seasons animals running wild over unbroken camps, +become literally covered with these bichos; consequently the cattle fall +back in condition, and the mortality amongst them mounts up to an +appallingly large percentage. To obviate this the dip is used, and has +come into general use. The animals are collected from afar, and brought +into the corral (a strong enclosure), from which there is a wooden +passage, having many contrivances useful for marking, branding, and +dehorning cattle, all of which are used in their due season; but for +dipping purposes this passage terminates in a precipitous slope, and the +animals are gently forced along it from the corral to plunge suddenly +into a prepared bath of a strong solution, which kills every tick; so it +follows, that if the animal has been totally submerged, it is absolutely +free from the parasite. The object of dipping is to kill all kinds of +insects and parasites which trouble the bovine race; especially so the +common Louse (the Dermatodectis Bovis) which is the scab producer. The +worst pest is, however, the cattle tick or Garrapata, and known under +the scientific name of Boophilus Annulatus. + +This latter is the harbinger of the microbe of Texas Fever or Tristeza, +as it is known in the Argentine. + +The remedies that are principally employed are of a tarry basis and +prepared so as to be easily mixed with water, usually in the proportion +of 1 to 100. + +The amount of mixture used is 2.60 litres, and the cost works out at 10 +cents. per head. + +The greatest number of animals that the Santa Fé Land Company have been +able to put through the dip in a day is 6,700, working from 6 a.m. to 5 +p.m. + +Animals certainly are frightened the first time they take this bath, but +very soon they find the comfort of its effect, and come to like and +enjoy it. The cattle we saw dipped to-day had mostly been through the +process several times before, and walked calmly down the passage, +seeming to enjoy their scramble through the dip. On emerging from the +dip, the animals stand in a small corral on the other side, and are kept +there for a while to allow the liquor to drain off their hides, and find +its way back to the tank. + +Some of the younger animals seemed scared at the first plunge, and +though a very great point is made of the fact that they must all be +collected and driven into the corral and down the passage, with the +utmost gentleness, some of them grew so disturbed at the unusual +proceeding, that they leapt on to the animal in front instead of sliding +down the dip as the older animals do. However, there are always plenty +of men under the superintendence of the mayor-domo to see that no harm +comes to any animal, and though in the early days of dips, broken legs +were not unusual occurrences, nowadays there are very seldom any +accidents, though thousands of animals may be dipped in a few hours. One +man holds a curious sort of wide blunt prong, with which he presses the +heads of any animals, who have not been totally immersed, under the +liquid as they pass him, thus ensuring the destruction of all parasites. + +After this inspection The Instigator and company were taken on to see +land which was being broken by bullocks, and thence to the Rio Salado, +(which we are hoping to negotiate much further north to-morrow), and +returned in time for lunch. After a short pause for rest and a cup of +tea, the party, this time with their host and hostess, set off for +various windmills, earth tanks, etc., which were of recent erection, and +were to be reviewed by The Instigator. Everything he saw seemed to give +satisfaction, and a weary but happy band returned to the house for +dinner, in the course of which some native dishes were introduced to us. + +Another lovely sunset favoured us this evening as we drove homewards, +and we hear that My Lady and The Wild Man almost came to a serious +quarrel over the shapes of various beautifully tinted clouds. One said a +certain cloud resembled a bear, the other said it was exactly like a +pork pie "shot" with a diamond tiara, and the matter was still under +bitter discussion long after the cloud in question had faded away into a +nebulous mist. The evening was calm and still, and we all sat outside +after coffee, discussing the unknown journey of to-morrow, and the +perils that might befall us on our way across the camps. The Instigator +talked emphatically, and quite unnecessarily, of "an early start is +imperative," till we all grew tired of his insistence and retired to +bed, where some of the party wondered under what circumstances they +would be sleeping to-morrow. + + * * * * * + +CORRESPONDENCE. + + LUCERO, _March 30th, 1910._ DEAR SIR, + + May I use the valuable medium of your paper for the purpose of + announcing that anyone who wishes to accompany the explorers on the + excursion, under the guidance of The Jehu and myself to the wild + north, must be ready, decently clothed and fed, with a supply of + patience and drinkables in their personal luggage, not later than 6 + a.m., to-morrow, March 31st, 1910. + + I am, Yours, etc., THE INSTIGATOR. + + P.S.--While taking suitable precautions for the safety and + happiness of those who entrust themselves to our care, we wish it + to be understood that we cannot hold ourselves responsible for any + loss of wearing apparel or other goods, temper, meals, or rest, + caused by rain, mosquitoes, frogs, snakes, overeating, or the + incompatibility of other passengers, or from any cause + whatsoever.--T.I. + + _To the Editor of "The Tacuru."_ + + _March 30th, 1910_. + + SIR, + + We should be glad to know if anything can be done to stop the + public nuisance in the shape of the amalgamation of two members of + the party, who are obviously descended from some long ago Christy + Minstrels. We believe that, taken separately, one at a time, at + long intervals, the aforesaid members can be tolerated for a few + minutes (personally, we find them nauseating to a degree, under the + most favourable circumstances), but together, when they attempt to + be bright and amusing, and fancy they have a sense of humour and + intelligent wit, they are absolutely impossible. They might have + been useful (say in 1500) as the final torture decreed by the + Inquisition, but in this year of grace of 1910, they are + unwarrantable, and we shall be grateful if immediate steps can be + taken for their separation, if not for their entire suppression. We + are, Dear Sir, still suffering from violent headaches, caused by + being shut up in the same coach for three hours with these + imbeciles. + + Yours truly, + + T.D. and M.L. + + * * * * * + +HARD CASE No. 1. + +The prize of five cents has been awarded to a correspondent O.G. (who is +requested to forward his real name and address as soon as possible) for +the best solution to the Hard Case we published yesterday. He says that +in those circumstances the lady should undoubtedly allow herself to be +fed, and should do all in her power by opening her mouth widely, and +turning her head slightly in the direction of the gentleman on her +right, to assist him in his self-imposed task, and thus to avoid giving +him the impression that he had committed an unusual social solecism in +commencing to feed her. + +Numerous correspondents have sent in solutions, but we consider the +above the best. Several answers have also been sent to the second part +of the question, and all agree that the gentleman on the left had no +shadow of excuse for causing the lady's nose to rest in the jelly. Such +a proceeding is totally without precedent in the highest circles. + + * * * * * + +"THE TACURU." + +No. 6. + +_Thursday, March 31st, 1910._ + +THE LARGEST CIRCULATION OF ANY DAILY PAPER PUBLISHED ON THIS TRIP. + +Everyone was astir early this morning, remembering The Instigator's +final warning last night of the necessity for an early start, but, on +assembling for breakfast at 7 a.m., The Instigator himself was missed. +His hawk-like eye (we apologise to Our Guest) had noticed some Galpon, +or drinking trough, or something, which he must, of course, investigate +before leaving Lucero, and dragging off The Delineator and The Jehu, he +quite forgot breakfast and the "early start," as he fussed over his +new-found interest, and it was not until he was captured forcibly by a +search party that his companions were allowed to come in to +breakfast--after the rest of the party had finished. Much to everyone's +delight the morning was bright and fine, and all promised favourably for +the excursion into the unknown. + +While waiting for the start, considerable interest was caused by the +home-building operations of some birds, who were constructing a nest +under the eaves of the outbuilding, and manipulating the mud for its +construction in a most clever manner. One bird flew off to get some mud +while the other energetically fashioned the last piece into shape in the +nest, then, when the first returned, the second bird flew off to get her +contribution of clay; so the moulding of that nest grew apace while we +watched its progress. + +Before we set out a pleading message came (and it was not the first, +either) from those left at headquarters, begging us to give up our +exploration scheme, and, in view of weather reports, to return in peace +to the civilisation of San Cristobal; but needless to say, nothing +daunted, The Instigator still kept to his determination to see all there +was to be seen, and the more people try to dissuade him from a thing, +once he has decided to do it, the more fixed becomes his intention to do +that thing. So, expostulations were useless, the final preparations and +farewells were made, a last communication held with Our Hostess at +Cristobal, before our passing into the wilds, and the Tacuru coaches +with their freight of precious humans, and still more precious food and +drink, started off from their pleasant rest at Lucero. Someone was heard +to murmur as the coaches drove off-- + + "Then hey! for boot and horse, lad, + And round the world away; + The Instigator _must_ have his tour, lad, + And _never_ will give way!" + +But this puerile parody met with the indifference it deserved, and, +accompanied by the Section Manager, we commenced our journey, travelling +for some hours over the land which is in his charge. "Monte," too, +seemed to consider that his presence as a guide and friend would be +necessary to the party, and came along with us; he is a "wild" dog of +the deerhound type, who was taken as a tiny puppy from a litter found in +a wood near Los Moyes, and has ever since been devoted to his captors. +There is a calm air of disinterested abstraction about "Monte" which is +very satisfying, and he is undoubtedly a philosopher. One of the two +Indian guides we picked up during the day's journey also had a dog, but +it was of a very different appearance and character to "Monte." "Monte" +looked on mankind in general as needing his care and supervision, while +the little black smooth-haired terrier felt "the great passion" for one +alone. His master was evidently his god, and if he lost sight of +"master" for two minutes it was really touching to hear his cries, +almost like those of a child, as he tried to trace his master through +the shallow water which we sometimes crossed. + +His yelps as he splashed along, nose to the ground, almost voiced the +sentiment:-- + + "Rank and wealth I pass unheeding, + Never giving them their due; + For my heart and soul are needing, + Nothing in the world but "YOU!" + +And he and his "YOU" were never very far apart. + +In a country where kindness to animals is not considered necessary, and +is very rarely found, this example of devotion between dog and man was +all the more noticeable and appreciated. Needless to say, as soon as The +Saint observed it she wanted to "give the man a present," and was only +restrained from doing so because she had nothing suitable for +presentation in her luggage, or in that of The Instigator. + +About one o'clock we came to the banks of the Salado, concerning the +crossing of which river we had heard so much. We had been told it was +impossible and impassable; that the rains had swollen the river too much +for a safe passage; that at the best of times the banks were too steep +and slippery for carts to negotiate, and that all idea of crossing had +better be given up. The Instigator and The Jehu merely smiled when they +heard of these difficulties, but some members of the party had wondered +how the traversing of that river was to be accomplished, and they were +agreeably surprised, on reaching the spot chosen for crossing, to find +that a tenant had built a narrow "tajamar," or earth bank, across the +river, which at this place was not very wide. Everyone dismounted, the +horses were taken out, and all hands were in request to pull the +vehicles across. First went the coaches, then the luggage carts were +dragged over. To illustrate the difficulties of the proceedings we +publish one of the many photos taken, during the crossing of the +tajamar. Our Guest was one of the first to help in the conveyance of +these carts. Apparently, since the gate-opening episode, he has "learnt +the wisdom early to discern true beauty in utility," for he is always to +the fore when work is to be done, and in this case his athletic training +proved the truth of the Yankee expression that "It's muscle that tells." +The Delineator and The Wild Man, as usual, when real hard work presents +itself, "thought the party would like photographs of it," and, armed +with their cameras, retired to safe distances, where the work could not +possibly interfere with them or they with it, and took photos of the +progress of the carts. We cannot complain, however, of their action (or +inaction, rather), for the resulting pictures make a good memorial of +the crossing of the Salado by the "Tacuruers." The ladies rushed to +assist when they saw that photos were being taken, but, as the carts +were well over the danger line by the time the ladies were at the +ropes, we have no pictured record of their deeds, which, we may note, +were really quite valueless at this point. + +[Illustration: _Crossing the Salado._] + +[Illustration: _The Effect of a Long Drought_.] + +Once the horses, carts, and luggage were safely across the tajamar the +more serious business of cocktails and lunch was thought of, and, in an +incredibly short time, the usual asado of meat, brought from Lucero, was +under discussion. + +The unfortunate sheep who were still spared were let out for a short +run. + +The Kid, too, was set free in the hopes that she might possibly prove +useful now, but, judging from her attitude during the preparations for +lunch, we should say those hopes would not be fulfilled. + +As we rest after our arduous crossing of the Salado, our thoughts are +inclined to wander to the awful tragedy enacted here in the year 1904. +It was a disastrous year for many of the northern camp men. There was an +appalling drought of long continuation, for which all the northern camps +were totally unprepared; the river over which we have just passed became +the concentration spot for all that is most terrible at such times. It +is not exaggerating the case when we say that 15,000 animals (some of +them having travelled south for 100 miles or more), forced by instinct, +and guided by wire fences, came to drink from the foul, polluted chain +of water-holes which then represented this river. One can imagine the +horror and distress of it all--not a blade of grass for miles, where +to-day the vegetation is luxuriant, and not a drop of water in this +river on whose banks we are resting, only a few mud-holes in which +hundreds of decaying carcases were embedded. This is what the cattle +found after their long journey south, through which they were daily +growing weaker. It is not surprising to hear that, at one place alone +on the river-bed, over 3,000 hides were taken off dead animals, and, +probably, it is well within the mark to say that at least another 1,000 +were lost. Well may we wonder, "Why this terrible suffering and loss?" +And the answer comes back, "Human negligence." It was the want of wells +which caused all this misery; cattle will bear drought for a long time, +but the actual want of water maddens them and causes the death of +thousands. If the northern camps are to be colonised and are to become +prosperous, the first necessity is the obtaining of a supply of good +water; second in importance only to the water supply is the fencing of +the camps, by which means a control over the cattle is established; +refined camps, better grasses, and alfalfa, will all follow in due +course; and anyone who has studied these northern lands would have no +hesitation in predicting that these camps will, in time, prove just as +profitable as any in the vast Republic of Argentina, and this is saying +a good deal, as those who have travelled over the rich southern camps +will realise. But, for his own sake, and for the sake of the cattle in +his care, let it be the first business of the estanciero to provide good +and sufficient wells, so that the terrible history of 1904 may never be +repeated. + +[Illustration: _Refined Camps._] + +However, the scene is different to-day, with a pleasant sunshine, the +crisp air sweeping over the uncultivated camp of natural grasses, and +plenty of water in the river; but we cannot linger, so, after the pipe +of peace for some, and a short siesta for others, "the all-aboard" bugle +was sounded, horses were put in, carts packed once more, and, after a +farewell to our host--who was returning to the section house--we went on +ahead into the wilder regions, and had a pleasant, though rather short, +drive for two or three hours before The Jehu called a halt. He explained +that we should require at least an hour for the unloading and erection +of the tents, tables, etc., before dusk; therefore, as the sun was only +a hand's breadth from the horizon (roughly speaking, an hour before +setting), we must dismount. He had chosen a pleasant spot for the camp +of the night, not far from a small ranch, and here the coaches halted. +Of course the luggage carts could not come up until some time later, as +their loads were so much heavier, and My Lady became even more popular +than usual when she suggested that the wait should be beguiled with a +cup of tea, and produced her tea-basket from the coach; true, we found +that there was no tea, but My Lady had plenty of cocoa. Water was +obtained from the house near by, and a very welcome cup of cocoa handed +round, accompanied by an unexpected slice of cake which apparently +appeared from nowhere, and which disappeared equally effectively, for it +was decidedly useful fodder and appreciated as such by all. + +We discovered here that our friend "Monte" had declined to go back after +lunch with his present master to Lucero, but had chosen to accompany his +past master on this expedition. His presence was an agreeable surprise. +He was found surveying the party with his calm scrutiny, and apparently +he approved of our spot for camping, also of the cake. + +As The Chaperon could find no work to do before the carts arrived, he, +for once, relaxed from his terrible strain of usefulness, and tided over +the tedious hour by trying to "throw the knife" in the most approved +cowboy manner. As each member of the party had had their "tea" (he was +practising with the knife which was used for the carving of the +cake--and anything else, when needed), no one objected to this harmless +amusement on his part, provided he did not pitch the knife on to their +toes; and, after long exercise, with the help of The Wild Man, who is +an adept at these tricks, The Chaperon at last succeeded in "throwing +the knife" to his satisfaction, and others' terror. A sigh of relief +escaped the lips of those who were dodging the knife when they saw the +luggage-carts looming in the distance. They at once drew the attention +of The Chaperon to the approach of the carts, and were rejoiced to see +him return the weapon to its sheath (in his leggings), and stiffen into +the attitude of action once more. + +No sooner were the carts on the spot than every member of the party was +at work, or pretending to be so. Poles were taken off the carts, luggage +uncovered, canvas was everywhere, yells for "the mallet" alternated with +the resounding blows struck, with the same, by the strong men of the +band, tent-pegs bristled all over the ground, everyone wanted the hammer +at the same time, and apparent chaos reigned for half an hour; then, +behold! as by magic, the din ceased, two tents had been securely +erected, floored with canvas, the luggage was placed under another +covering of canvas, a table, with plates, knives, forks, etc., was ready +in an open space, camp-stools stood around it, beds, blankets, sheets +and pillows galore were in each tent, and the smell of roasting meat in +the distance rose pleasantly upon the air. The place looked as if the +party had been accustomed to camp there regularly once a week, so well +was everything arranged. Nothing had been forgotten which could add +comfort, for all hands had been working hard, and each peon, too, had +done his share; in fact, the sight would have rejoiced the soul of the +most ardent, red-tied Socialist, for surely never did a community carry +out more thoroughly the principle of "each one working for the happiness +of others." True, there was no trade union to limit their exertions, but +that was an omission for which we may be thankful. + +As the dusk quickly deepened, the peons gathered round their fire, over +which the meat was cooking, a little distance from the camp site; the +lamps were lit and hung from poles, and the party looked with +satisfaction on their handiwork. It would have made an interesting, and +not unpicturesque illustration, if one could have obtained a photo of +the "Primera Vista" camp that evening. + +But it was at this time, just when all seemed smiling and happy, that +the travellers were to go through their first real trial, for here the +discovery was made of a serious loss. It was spoken of in whispers at +first, but gradually the whispers increased to a murmur as the loss +became generally known; yet neither man nor woman quailed, and none +could have told from their outward bearing the bitter struggle they were +inwardly facing. A cynical traveller once said, after noting the +innumerable number of statues in the land, "South America has evidently +produced a phenomenal number of heroes," but we are inclined to think +their tale has not been told if those who bore their trouble so bravely +that night are to be "unhonoured and unsung." Think what it meant, you +who may read this, in years to come, in civilised places, comfortably +seated in your armchairs, conveniently near the cellaret, and,--honour +our brave! They had at least two days to face (with no prospect of +obtaining supplies anywhere) and they discovered, here, that _the case +of whisky was lost,_ left behind, vanished--they knew not what, only +that it had disappeared! + + Theirs not to reason why, + Theirs not to moan or sigh, + E'en though their throats were dry, + Noble "Tacuruers"! + +True, the comforting thought that they still had a bottle and a-half of +the precious drink with them may have helped them to keep their spirits +up with the hope of pouring spirits down, but a bottle and a-half is +not much amongst so many thirsty souls for three days, and, we repeat, +that great courage and bravery was shown by the equanimity with which +the party bore the news of their loss. + +A minor loss was that the dinner napkins were not forthcoming, but that +surprised no one, for they were in the charge of The Kid, and, of +course, she had forgotten them at Lucero. We believe she said something +about their being "left to be washed" there, but no one listened to her, +and we used glass cloths instead. + +At our first camp evening meal everyone did justice to the goods that +The Chaperon provided. Coffee was not forgotten, and, after their +dinner, the more musical members of the band tried to sing--it kept the +mosquitoes off--and when "a catch" was attempted even the bicho colorado +was cowed into silence. We had looked forward to hearing the guitar +played by one of the peons here. He had brought his instrument with him, +but, unfortunately, had dropped a large packing case upon it, which did +not improve its tone, and this accident prevented our hearing the +national dances played on a guitar in the open camp as we had hoped to +do. + +Weary with the exertions of the day the party turned their thoughts and +steps early towards those tents where rows of little bedsteads, each +with its mosquito net above, looked so attractively inviting, and before +long lights were out and peace reigned as far as possible. + + "Thus done the Vales to bed they creep, + By whispering winds soon lulled asleep." + +Guards were set and they, with Monte, were left to protect the horses +and camp through the night. + +CORRESPONDENCE. + + _March 31st, 1910._ + + SIR, + + I feel that, as I am in a measure responsible for the presence of + the two people to whom your correspondents of yesterday object, I + should like to apologise, through the medium of your paper, for the + inconvenience these two people have caused, and to assure your + correspondents that steps shall be taken to prevent a repetition of + the annoyance. The fact is, that both of them are so rarely out of + Bedlam at the same time that I had not realised the necessity for + keeping them apart, nor the danger of their amalgamation, but they + shall be kept in separate coaches in future, and I can only express + my sincere regret for the mischief and trouble they have caused. + + I am, + + Yours, etc., + + THE INSTIGATOR. + + * * * * * + +A correspondent writes to know if any of our readers can solve the +following problem for her:--"'A' starts on a seven days' journey with +eighty-seven horses, he loses two, one of which he finds next day, and +at the end of the week has 110 horses." The enquirer has searched +through her "Hamblin Smith" but can find no honest method of solution. + + * * * * * + +ADVERTISEMENTS. + +EXPERT GUIDE.--Anyone requiring a really good guide, thoroughly +conversant with the Chaco, ways of wild Indians and animals, please +apply "T.W.M.," Offices of this paper. Good shot, can cook and sew, +able to point out all the beauties of nature, animal and vegetable. +Terms moderate. Inspires confidence in the most timid ladies by his +winning smile. + +LOST.--One tin of gingerbread biscuits (Huntley & Palmer). No reward is +offered, as they will probably be eaten by the time this advertisement +is in print. If anyone would return the tin, as a recuerdo, to Lucero, +advertiser would be obliged. + +LOST.--Lucero. Several good horses. + + * * * * * + +Several correspondents have written to know whether it is not a menace +to the rest of the community for one member of the band to sleep +promiscuously on the bricks, or anywhere else handy, at night. Two or +three say they have tripped over him in the dark and consider it would +be a safeguard if anyone preferring to spend the night in this way were +compelled by law to burn an anchor or other light. They are quite +willing to believe that the offender had had at least one "starboard +light" at some period of that night, but that light had lost its power +of illumination at the time our correspondents tripped over the +prostrate figure, and they wish to suggest that in future, people +sleeping out should use some means to safeguard unwary passers-by. (We +give the complaint the publicity it deserves and trust steps will be +taken to right the matter.--ED.) + + + + +"THE TACURU." + +No. 7. + +_Friday, April 1st, 1910._ + +ADVERTISE IN "THE TACURU"--THIS ENSURES YOUR WANTS BEING KNOWN IN EVERY +COACH. + + +We fancy that most of the party were awake to see the dawn this morning: +it may have been that they only saw the first streaks of light between +the openings of their tent as they lay in bed trying to soothe the +itching of the mosquito bites, but we think that few were asleep as the +sun rose gloriously from the mists on the horizon. It was a strange +sight, the sudden flooding with bright sunlight of that rough camp land, +which scarcely owned a tree or shrub. It may be the primitive barbarian +lying dormant in all of us though hidden under generations of +civilization, which makes us feel a close communion with Nature when we +see her in these great uncultivated wastes; but, whatever the causes of +the sympathy, these pictures, of wild untouched Nature, leave an +impression and a longing more deep than any experience gained in years +of civil life; none will ever regret having seen that sunrise on the +plain, though all regretted the cause of their wakefulness this morning. + +Of course The Chaperon was up and clothed (he always seemed to be) and +ready to get basins of water, looking-glasses, shaving materials and all +luxuries for the others. The ladies were heard to enquire why he did not +bring them early tea and hot water, but, on the whole, he combined the +duties of valet and maid fairly efficiently. + +Rumour has it that The Chaperon had given instructions that he was to be +called by the guard an hour before dawn, so, in the dark, he was +awakened by hoarse whispers of his name and gentle shakings. After he +arose it occurred to him that it felt more like the middle of the night +than the morning, and he enquired of the peon what time it was, the +answer coming in soft Spanish, "Can't say, the cocks have not crowed +yet!!!" On investigation The Chaperon found it was scarcely 4 a.m., so +spent the remaining two hours sitting round the camp fire with the +peons, alternately dozing and sucking maté. We believe he heard some +expert opinions on the subject of the "roncadors" of the camp during his +vigil. At any rate he had full opportunity for proving the reality of +Ruskin's words, "There is no solemnity so deep to a right-thinking +creature as that of dawn." At the same time he was heard to murmur +something to the effect that he would prefer a little less of the "deep +solemnity" and a little more of "deep slumber" another morning. + +Scarcely were the toilets, and the packing of personal luggage, +accomplished, before a request was made that the mosquito nets and beds +might be removed for loading, and, as we emerged from the various tents, +the breakfast-table greeted us ready laden with tea (from the kettle), +sardines, jam, peons' biscuits, etc. True, the only milk procurable was +some condensed milk, which had "gone solid," there were not enough +knives to go round, and a few other irregularities, but no little items +of that sort ever disturbed the temper of The Tacuruers; they simply +remarked with the other "Autocrat of the Breakfast Table," "Difficulties +are Nature's challenges to you," and used one spoon for all their cups, +tore off lumps of bread with their fingers (when they could get hold of +a loaf), and used the same plate and knife for jam and sardines alike, +and enjoyed their early meal. + +[Illustration: "_Rich black alluvial Soil_."] + +There was one subject that did cause sore feeling, and that was +mosquitoes. We had thought we knew all about them, we were proud with +the conceit of nets, ammonia, and veils, but our pride had a fall. +Comparatively speaking, we had only known mosquitoes theoretically +before (though that knowledge was bad enough); last night we learnt of +them practically, none of us had thought of _tucking in_ our nets, and +mosquitoes seemed to swarm up under each net before we had been in bed +for half an hour. Little peace did anyone get through those long night +hours, and, though a voice came from one of the tents about 2 a.m., +remarking clearly above the intermittent snores, "Oh! how lovely," few +echoed the sentiment, and the speaker assured us this morning that she +was only dreaming, and that her words did not refer to insects of any +kind, neither were they made in connection with the upheaval caused by +"Monte" at one period of the night. He had taken up his quarters at one +end of the ladies' tent, but was disturbed from his beauty sleep by the +sudden barking of a dog outside the other end of the tent. This, of +course, must be seen to; it was his duty, so, leaping up, he rushed +through the tent, lifting up each one of the low beds, and their +occupants, as he passed under them on his way to quell the outside +noise. The ladies forbore to scream, though they thought of earthquakes, +but settled down again to their occupation of trying to kill mosquitoes, +quietly, in the dark, and to snatch moments of slumber occasionally. + +After breakfast, Our Guest was rather unkindly "put on" by The +Instigator to dig holes, to ascertain how deep the rich, black, alluvial +soil reached; the ladies energetically washed up the breakfast things, +which occupation resulted in The Kid once more, and this time finally, +being given notice to leave, without a character, owing to general +incompetence, impertinence, and lack of ability to wash out tea-cloths. + +By 7 a.m. the coaches and carts were ready, horses rounded up, the +"Primera Vista" camp was struck, and the march onward recommenced. But +not before The Chaperon had pointed out a terror that "might have been." +After breakfast he approached us with a stick held at arm's length, on +which hung a dead, slimy-looking, grey snake, about 4 feet long. He +explained that this reptile had crawled over the neck of one of the +peons as he lay on the grass last night. This had happened before we +went to bed, and we felt grateful to The Chaperon for having saved us +from another horror last night by keeping the fact, and snake, to +himself until we were leaving that camp. + +The first part of our drive to-day was a new experience; we had passed +over a few ant-hills before on our journey, but now we came to a land +where it was difficult, if not impossible, to dodge them; they literally +covered the ground, and the South American ant-hill is a power to be +reckoned with. It is not the yielding mass composed of soft earth and +other heterogeneous materials as found in England, which can be +demolished with a kick, should anyone have sufficient temerity to lay +himself open to the attacks of the inmates by thus disturbing them; but +the homes of the black ant, and the Amazon ant, in Argentina are quite a +different affair. They are, usually, solid, hard masses of earth from +three to four feet high, very wide at the base, and covered entirely +with coarse grass. They present an unyielding obstacle to any vehicle, +and the wheels of even a heavily laden cart make no impression on them, +but they are not unlikely to cause the overturning of that cart, and +even traction engines suffer from the sudden drop caused by these +gigantic sugar-loaves. Therefore it will be easily realized that the +innumerable ant-hills through, and over which, we drove, were no +inconsiderable menace to the safety of the party, and it was only due to +the great care and skill of our drivers in threading their way amongst +these obstacles that the inmates of the coaches were not upset time +after time. As it was, no accident of the slightest description +occurred--only a few bumps and jolts as we ascended or descended one of +the ant-hills, which are so difficult to discern in open camp, where the +whole land is covered alike with long grass. The worst part of our +travelling did not last more than three or four hours; then we came to +smoother country, fewer ant-hills, and occasional small lagunas, the +land growing slightly undulating, though still bare of trees, and, after +another three hours' driving, during which we had many changes of horses +and several "helps" from the guides over extra bad pieces of travelling, +we could see in the distance the position of the Lake Palmar and the +tops of the palms which grow on the farther shore. + +It was during this part of our day's journey that the peons made two +captures of live animals in an armadillo and a nutria. These men have +extraordinary good and far sight, and observe any movement in the grass, +yards ahead of them. They at once killed both animals, for they are +exceedingly fond of armadillo flesh, and cook the animal in its skin. + +It was decided that horses and drivers alike would require a rest when +we reached the shores of the lake, and, after our cocheros had made +futile attempts to cut figures of 8 with their respective four and +two-in-hands on the invitingly firm, yellow sands which surround Lake +Palmar, all dismounted, horses were taken out, and, while lunch was +being prepared, the party wandered on the shores of the lake trying to +find remnants of extinct monsters, fossilised palms, and other +improbable things. The Instigator rushed up and down picking leaves to +bits, collecting sand and examining it under the microscope (which is, +as yet, his), tasting the water of the lake, and generally trying to +find a way of teaching Nature how to improve on her own handiwork. It +really seems a pity She does not engage him as her expert consulting +engineer. My Lady and The Saint did discover a boar-hound's tooth on the +sands, and two teeth of a nutria, very pretty in their long, gentle +curve, white at the root and gradually deepening to a reddish-brown at +the end; but both these finds were absolutely valueless, and, though +there was talk of having the teeth set as brooches, etc., connoisseurs, +such as The Wild Man, knew well that the "finds" would be dissolved to +dust long before they could reach the civilisation of a jeweller's shop. + +The tiny banks which slope down from the camp to meet the wide +stretching sands of the lake are covered with scrub and low trees of the +acacia type, and, on one of these low trees, eked out with camp stools, +the party, wearied with their search for curios, settled down to await +their mid-day meal. It was gently broken to us that the sheep had at +last been sacrificed, and would shortly appear before us in a different +guise. The slaughter must have been most humane, for no one of us had +heard the slightest cry or sound of distress, and now the flesh was +being cooked. The peons would always prefer to cook all meat in the +hide, if they were allowed to do so, and it is only with constant +watching that they are prevented from thus wasting the valuable skins of +animals. They are enormous meat eaters, which is scarcely to be wondered +at, considering how scarce green food is. They live on meat, maté, and +hard biscuits. + +The bright idea occurred to someone that a _hors-d'oeuvre_ would be +acceptable, considering how long ago we had had our meagre early morning +meal, so the only available article, a tinned Dutch cheese, was +attacked; and none but those who have tried, under similar +circumstances, one of the soft Dutch cheeses which one obtains in the +Argentine, would be able to understand how very good it can be. As it +was handed round (to everyone on the same knife), hunger, open-air, and +the exercise of the ant-hills caused it to be appreciated more than +usual, even beyond its deserts, if possible. + +As the party were thus collected (mostly with their legs tucked away to +prevent the climbing operations of the black ants with which the ground +was swarming), The Instigator took this opportunity to try to rid +himself of some of the responsibility of the trip by calling a meeting +(the whole nine were already there), and putting it to the vote as to +whether The Kid, now that she had lost her companions the sheep, should +be turned adrift to find her way back again as best she could, drowned +in the lake, or allowed to accompany the party for the rest of the +journey. A wild gleam of joy lit the eyes of everyone who knew anything +of her at this prospect of getting rid of the trial. Both the ladies, +and everyone who had known her for longer than the week, voted, hands +and feet, for her extinction, but four of the men were foolishly too +polite to express their real wishes. So she herself was left with the +casting vote, and chose to go on! Thus The Instigator's well-thought +plan to remove an incubus was frustrated. He was so disgusted with his +failure in a laudable object that, directly after "lunch" (which meant +each one cutting off from the half-sheep, that was handed round, the +piece he or she preferred), he went off with his microscope trying to +find other interests, and in a few minutes was growing unduly excited +over a shrub on which he discovered some most unusual excrescences. +These shapeless masses of earth, apparently growing on the shrub, he was +examining from all points with the naked eye before submitting them to +microscopic investigation, and it was only when Our Guest came up and +removed some of the earth from one of the excrescences that The +Instigator, who was watching intently, noted that the mass resolved +itself into the shape of one of The Saint's shoes, which had been hung +up on the shrub to dry after her lake-searching expedition. Foiled +again, The Instigator collected The Delineator and My Lady, and started +to walk to the northern end of the lake, where The Jehu could pick them +up, when the washing, packing and harnessing allowed of an onward move. +We are told that for once The Kid, perhaps stimulated by her recent +narrow escape from total extinction, really did do some work here. It is +true we only have her word, an indistinct murmur from The Chaperon, and +some clean plates to vouch for the statement, as all the other members +of the party remaining were lying in more or less graceful slumberous +attitudes in carts, under trees, or anywhere else, enjoying forty winks. +Some excellent photos were obtained of the sleeping beauties as they lay +there resting, but their modesty caused them to beg for forbearance in +the publication of any of the pictures thus obtained. + +Before the actual start was made, The Jehu, Our Guest, The Chaperon, and +The Wild Man tried their hands at some revolver-shooting. Naturally, the +drivers, after their long hours with the reins, could not do themselves +justice with the more dangerous weapons, but, combined with Our Guest +and The Wild Man, they left a fair show of broken bottles in the lake, +rather to the surprise of the lookers-on. + +Neither of our cocheros could resist the further opportunity of figures +of eight as we drove off on the hard sand, but we believe they were not +encouraged in these exhibitions by their passengers, and, skirting the +North part of the lake they came to a little ranch where they had +arranged to meet the three walkers, who had discovered divers +interesting specimens of animal, vegetable and mineral kinds during +their very pleasant stroll round the lake. Here they were sitting at +the ranch awaiting the arrival of the coaches, and they introduced the +newcomers to a marvellous collection of tame birds with whom they had +made acquaintance. The owners of the ranch had six or seven birds of +different kinds, which flew about and pitched on anyone's shoulder or +hand, or on the carriages, and were most friendly; in fact, one big bird +was so willing to become attached to us that we could scarcely persuade +it to leave the coach when we were ready to drive on. + +We allowed those who had driven to the spot a few moments in which to +dismount and greet the neat little mistress of the ranch, with whom we +had already made friends, and her pretty children. The roofing of this +little ranch and its out-houses was most interesting. It was carried out +entirely with trunks of palm trees. These, split in half and cleared of +all sap, made very effective roofing, placed alternately in concave and +convex form, so that the ridges of the two lengths of trunk placed bark +upward rest in the hollow of the intervening trunk. Naturally, all rain +water drains off the convex half into the concave trunk and flows down +these gullies into the water course formed of another hollowed palm +trunk running along the lower edge of the roof. A more suitable and +rainproof roof could scarcely be designed. The mistress of the house was +most anxious to entertain us to tea, but, having picked up our guide +from Vera, who it was arranged should meet us here with letters, we +could not spare time for further delay, and once more started off with +the guide ahead of us. + +After leaving the ranch we turned to the eastward, and before long +passed over the Calchaqui river (which is more generally known as the +Golondrino here). This was not a difficult matter. + +After crossing the Calchaqui we enter quite a new country, the land is +perceptibly higher, the grasses are finer and trees begin to appear. +First we came to the tall palm trees on the edge of the forest, and very +imposing they were, then small montes gave place to the regular woods +which stretch North on this side of the river, and trees abound. The +scenery was altogether more tropical. Occasional flocks of bright pink +flamingoes made a welcome touch of colour as they stood on the edge of +some little laguna, or, disturbed by the unusual approach of coaches, +flew off in the distance. Hares were to be seen now and then, and +sometimes even one of the small wild deer of the forest was noticed +before it rushed off to the shelter of the trees. + +Unfortunately, about this time, the sun, which had been so friendly all +day, became overcast with clouds, and the sky assumed a threatening +appearance; but, notwithstanding the wise head-shakings of those who +know the country (The Delineator and The Jehu in particular), the party +refused to be downhearted, and asserted that rain was the most unlikely +event, and, in any case, they intended to enjoy their present drive +through scenery which was not unlike that which would be found in an +English park; the great expanses were gone, and in their place we had +slightly undulating stretches of grass bordered with trees of all kinds. +The whole aspect of the land had changed and the country here was +extremely pretty, though no distant views could be obtained owing to the +thick growth of the trees and the impossibility of finding any but the +slightest rising ground. + +We arrived, before long, at a little ranch, in the neighbourhood of +which we were to encamp for the night. The spot was very different to +our camp of last night, for here we were surrounded with trees, and near +by a flock of sheep, belonging to the ranch, were feeding. Before the +heavier carts could arrive, and the work of tent-erecting commence, +there was plenty of time for a cup of tea, with the aid of My Lady's +useful basket; but all the water that could be obtained from the +so-called "well" at the ranch was half mud, and, though this was used +with great success, we could only secure two mouthfuls of tea from each +cup, as the rest of the contents was composed of mud. We believe The Kid +was rather annoyed about this, and felt distinctly aggrieved, but she +did not dare to give vent to her feelings, and the matter did not worry +those who were looking forward to "cocktails" before dinner, and well +they deserved those "cocktails," for by the time the carts arrived the +atmosphere had become intensely close; a slight drizzle seemed only to +add to the damp heat, and the work of unloading and erecting tents, and +beds, and unpacking in that warm, steaming air, which was intensified +under the coverings, was no light one; but here, again, everyone +performed their quota, whether large or small, for the general good. +Before long the tents were up. Three were erected to-night, as, owing to +the rain, we should be obliged to have food under canvas. The Instigator +caused great admiration by cunningly using trees as supports in the +erection of the tents under his supervision, and thus hurrying matters +on. Everything was finished, beds made, luggage under cover, the table +laid ready in the tent, and lamps lit and suspended before the short +twilight had given place to complete darkness, and The Saint once more +earned the blessings and gratitude of all by thoughtfully insisting on a +general "washing of faces." As she marshalled the party in front of her, +and attacked each one with sponge and towel, we were irresistibly +reminded of a board school; but that sponge of toilet vinegar, after the +damp heat and all the work, was one of the most refreshing things +imaginable, and everyone felt cleaner and more cheerful after this +ablution, and ready to attack the poor little armadillo, which had been +cooked; this meat tastes very much like sucking pig. The rain, which was +coming down heavily by this time, was powerless to damp the spirits of +the party as they sat down to dinner. They were only troubled because +they feared this would be their last evening meal in camp, and that +Civilisation might again claim them for her own to-morrow, for a great +deal of the enjoyment of this trip has been due, undoubtedly, to its +incomparable freedom. So they spent the time in eating, and holding a +mutual admiration society meeting. Each decided (between the mouthfuls +of mutton and armadillo) that every other member of the party was just +the nicest person that he or she had ever met, and, as there was no one +there to contradict the obviously erroneous statements, all were +satisfied and content, and drank each other's healths with enthusiasm, +and--whatever else was left. Someone even tried to murmur something +kindly about The Kid. Above all, the Instigator was eulogised, and +rightly, too, for his genial influence helped everything to go well; no +one could have grumbled at the little inconveniences which they had had +to put up with at times, while The Instigator was so cheerful and +anxious for others' comfort and careless of his own through all. His +interest in, and enthusiasm for, his Company know no bounds. Get him to +hold forth, and he will tell you how, in the early days of the Company, +matters were quite different from what they are to-day. The shares stood +then at five shillings each, and the bankers refused to allow an +overdraft of £2,000, and when it became absolutely necessary to have +money he actually made advances out of his own pocket to supply the +requisite funds. + +Shortly afterwards matters began to improve, and when he visited the +property in 1900 he was able to send this reassuring message to the +General Meeting:--"I honestly believe the worst is past, and that in +future we shall progress." + +He always appraises the work of others whether the result of their +operations is successful or not, and he will appreciate the mental and +manual exertions expended on the undertaking by the employees of the +Company at their true worth. All he asks of his colleagues and +subordinates is that each one shall "play the game" in every sense of +the word to the best of his ability. He never paints the prospects of a +beginner in rosy hues; in fact, he has been known to speak of the +hardships and privations which a young man must be prepared to go +through on first joining the Company as being comparable to "the life of +a dog." To-day the men who have been through those first years of +necessary self-denial and hard work are grateful for the training they +have received and anxious to work their best for the Company. + +For a long while the party sat talking of their experiences on this +trip, and of the Company and its prospects. The travelling over this +comparatively unknown land had been a revelation to most; the dormant +wealth lying in the camp must be enormous, but men, money, and brains +are needed to exploit it. Unfortunately, it is still difficult to get +colonists for these more northern districts, but when the railway which +is contemplated becomes an accomplished fact, as it assuredly must, +people will be attracted further north, colonisation will be easier, the +land will yield its hundredfold, and some one will, in time, have +performed the great deed of "making two blades of grass grow where only +one grew before." It may seem to those accustomed to the narrower life +of towns, a lonely, empty life to spend one's years and energies +improving these wild lands; but assuredly the man who labours here with +the best that is in him, not only earns a great reward for himself in +the gradual development and growth of that land, but has deserved well +of mankind in general, and will, some day, receive his "Well done," than +which there is no higher praise, as surely as those whose lives have +been spent in the more public fields of civilisation or in military +prowess. + +For some, obscure reason it is generally supposed that the man who +spends his life in agricultural pursuits is bound to have his mental +abilities dulled by the continuous round of duties connected with the +land and the care of animals. The origin of this idea is difficult to +imagine, unless it be that agriculture is the oldest and most necessary +pursuit of mankind; but surely the man who has to keep a perpetual watch +on wind, weather and workers, animal and vegetable kingdom and natural +phenomena, and be ready to anticipate any change, besides being +thoroughly in touch with all the latest improvements, mechanical and +material, in reference to his calling, and conversant with the ruling +prices in the best markets, cannot be held to be a man whose perceptions +are becoming blunted by his business. It is certainly true that there +are many who do "let things go," but that class is not confined to +agriculturists alone, and in agriculture, as in all other callings, +those who "let things slide" very shortly find that most things have +slid away from them irrevocably. Certainly the Argentine is no place for +the man disinclined for exertion. She holds rewards, and great rewards; +but only for the resolute who are prepared to lead a strenuous and +self-denying life of labour, exposure and fatigue, and who come to her +determined to win the best from her rich lands, and to take every +opportunity as it comes in their way for improving their knowledge. + +Plans were made for to-morrow's journey; there was talk, if the day was +fine and the way possible, of going first south-east to the tannin +factory at La Gallareta, then due north to Las Gamas, but it was feared +that the recent heavy rains in this district would have made the +undertaking of the two journeys on one day inadvisable, and the Indian +guide persuaded the "leaders" that it would be wiser to go straight to +Las Gamas to-morrow and leave the visit to the factory for Monday. This +would give Tuesday for Santa Lucia and Wednesday for Vera. Sarnosa and +Olmos could be visited from one or the other of these two estancias, +and, leaving Vera on Friday afternoon, San Cristobal would be reached on +Saturday evening. + +As we dispersed in the rain to our various tents, a slight thunder and +lightning storm commenced, but, notwithstanding this, we were happy in +the assurance that our troubles from mosquitoes were likely to be less +virulent to-night, owing to our proximity to the sheepfold of the ranch. +Therefore, as good disciples of the immortal Pepys, we quote--and with +appropriate action--"So to bed." + + * * * * * + +ADVERTISEMENT. + + +OUT OF WORK.--Advertiser wants situation as general help; might be +useful in tea-taster's office; hard work not so much an object as high +wages and comfortable living. Advertiser could take immediate situation. +No references.--T.K., _Second Coach_. + + * * * * * + +ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. + + +T.C. writes in answer to the arithmetical problem of yesterday's date, +"Yes, if A starts with 87 horses, loses 2, and finds 1, he does end the +journey with 110, for he collects 24 more at the last estancia. Only +experts can do this; hence your correspondent's failure to find a +solution." + +LOST.--One watch and chain (said to be gold), trinkets attached +containing several locks of hair and portraits of ten or twelve +gentlemen. If finder would return portraits and hair, owner would be +obliged.--T.K. + + + +"THE TACURU." + +No. 8. + +_Saturday, April 2nd, 1910._ + +THE CIRCULATION OF "THE TACURU" WENT UP LITERALLY BY LEAPS AND BOUNDS +YESTERDAY MORNING, FAR BEYOND THE EXPECTATIONS EVEN OF THE EDITOR. + + +The morning dawned damp and dreary; rain had fallen steadily all night +long, and still continues. Neither The Chaperon nor anyone else had an +opportunity for seeing "the golden exhalations of dawn" this morning. +To-day's "exhalations" were chiefly those of moisture, and the only gold +we saw was supplied by the light of the paraffin lamps which The +Chaperon, always on the look out to anticipate our wishes, provided for +us to see our way to wash. The water for ablutions was obtained from the +mud-hole which did duty for a well at the ranch, and its appearance was +somewhat disconcerting. However, with skill, one could scoop up a little +of the surface of the water for a splash without disturbing the thick +stratum of mud at the bottom of the basin; things might have been worse, +and everyone felt that on such a damp day washing at all was merely an +æsthetic waste of energy. By the time dressing was accomplished it was +sufficiently light for the lamps to be dispensed with, and we assembled +for breakfast in a dull-grey atmosphere. Hot tea, even though half mud, +was very good. We believe that the leaf of a certain cactus has the +power of clearing water absolutely; if it is dropped in a vessel of +water, it and the mud settle at the bottom, leaving the water quite +clear; but though several varieties of cacti were tried this morning, +none were successful; apparently the special kind did not grow around +our camp. + +[Illustration: _Water Knee-deep._] + +No one seemed much disheartened by the rain; even the peons, though +already wet through in their scanty garments, were cheerfully smiling as +usual, with no thought of grumbling. Monte, too, was calmly ready to +accompany us, despite the bad weather. + +Owing either to the skilful manner of tucking in the nets adopted last +night, or to the neighbourhood of the sheepfold, mosquitoes had not +troubled us nearly so much as on the previous night; only the continual +flashes of lightning and the soft rumblings of thunder during the steady +downpour had been able to disturb our deep slumbers. + +As soon as possible the tents were taken down, packing accomplished, and +a start made. Fortunately the ant-hills were considerably fewer in +number to-day, but the ground was ankle deep in water everywhere, and +fallen tree trunks hidden under the, in some places, really deep water, +formed a considerable danger in our path. However, again owing to the +skill of our drivers, no accident occurred all through that long drive +in unceasing rain, which shrouded all but the most immediate view. Of +course, constant changes of horses were necessary, as, for eight hours +we drove through water, above and below, to our destination. The +accomplishment of that drive of his four-in-hand from the absolutely +unsheltered position on the box was no small feat on the part of The +Jehu; we all felt an even deeper admiration for his pluck and endurance +than before, as he steadily pursued his way on that terrible day, when +his whole body and especially his hands must have been numbed through +and through with the cold and wet. The Chaperon, too, had an arduous +day, though his work was not so strenuous as that of The Jehu. At one +spot, when under trees we made a change of horses, The Chaperon was seen +to be wading through water, knee deep, as he handed round the only +refreshments available--ginger-bread, biscuits, beer and gin--to guests +and peons alike, all drinking gratefully from the same small measure. +That drive is something to be remembered; it was executed under the most +trying circumstances with not a single complaint or grumble from anyone, +but an increased thankfulness on the part of the passengers that they +were in such good hands during the trip. The land through which we drove +to-day is covered with trees of various kinds; large forests exist on +the eastern side of the Calchaqui, bordering the river for its entire +length; the trees of these forests are chiefly Algarrobo the wood of +which is not unlike our walnut in appearance, but extremely hard; in +days to come this timber will be used in great quantities for making +parquet flooring. It seems almost incredible that the city of Buenos +Aires should import millions of square metres of ready-made parquet +flooring when the Argentine produces magnificent timber of far more +suitable and better wearing quality for the purpose than any used in +imported parquet. As we have journeyed eastward, trees have become much +more numerous, and splendid timber is to be seen on every side. Most +numerous amongst the trees is the Quebracho Colorado, which supplies one +of the hardest timbers the world produces. The trees have a peculiar +appearance, for their leaves are quite small and the trunks have a rough +bark from which often hangs moss-like lichen, of which, by the way, +cattle are very fond. The photo on the opposite page gives a general +idea of a tree's appearance. + +The wood, which is light in colour when first cut, becomes dark red upon +being exposed to light and weather, and it is intensely hard. + +[Illustration: _Quebracho Colorado Tree._] + +The word "quebracho" (pronounced KAYBRATSHO) signifies axe-breaking, and +even modern tools do not retain their edge long when working on this +wood. + +The wonderful durability of the wood renders it a perfect material for +railway sleepers, and this has been appreciated by the Government of +Argentina to such an extent that they have decreed that the laying of +new railways is to be upon sleepers made of the hard woods of the +Country. + +[Illustration: _Sleepers awaiting Transport at Vera._] + +The forests of the Santa Fé Land Company have produced in the last +twelve years over a million Quebracho Colorado sleepers. + +One drawback to the wood is that it has the peculiarity of splitting +around the heart of the tree. This is caused by the accumulation of +resin at certain periods, and is probably connected in some way with the +excessive moisture or dryness of a particular year's growth. + +The tree is often attacked by a boring grub, which enters by making a +very small pin prick opening, and during its existence in the tree grows +and bores an ever enlarging hole until often it becomes half an inch in +diameter. It would seem almost incredible that a grub could live either +on the resins in the tree or be able to bore through what is one of the +hardest woods in the world. + +Of recent years this timber has also been put to another use--that of +producing tan. When used for this purpose, the tree was cut down, its +outer sapwood removed, and then taken to the river to be finally shipped +to the United States of America or to Germany. + +It was soon found that the railway and shipping freight charges absorbed +a considerable amount of the profits to be obtained in making this +tannin extract abroad, and, therefore, extract factories were erected in +Argentina. The process of obtaining the extract is very simple; the logs +are first put through a machine which reduces them to chips, the chips +are then boiled in water till all soluble matter is extracted from them, +and the solution obtained is concentrated down to the consistency of +pitch; in this form, after being dried, it is exported, and is used by +tanners the world over. The great necessity and essence of success, in +the present way of working the business, is good water and plenty of it. + +We do not know who first noticed the tannin material oozing out of these +trees, but no doubt attention was called to the fact by pools in the +neighbourhood of the trees being often red in colour. Undoubtedly the +Germans first took this business up on a large scale, and to-day they +hold an enormous quantity of forest lands. + +Hitherto the extract has been brought on to the market in a solid state +very much after the style of Burma cutch. The Santa Fé Land Company have +recently produced the material in a fine powdered state, absolutely +pure, and containing a great deal less moisture than any other form of +extract on the market, and they are about to erect a factory to work +this process in connection with their saw mills at Vera. This new +process requires very little water as compared with the old method, and +can be adopted, in huge areas hitherto unsuitable for the industry. + +About mid-day we approached a plaza, or wood deposit, of the La +Gallareta Factory, situated on the Company's Lands. Rain had been +falling in torrents for days past, and the tracks (called by courtesy +"roads") had one and all become deep crevasses of soft mud, loads of +timber had been left here and there in the wood, just wherever the cart +conveying it had stuck, and in many places the water was so deep that +not a vestige of these obstacles could be seen. Our coaches had to be +driven under (or perhaps we should say "over") such circumstances as +these for about three miles, and this part of our journey was absolutely +dangerous; the greatest credit is due to the drivers and those in charge +of the party that no serious accident occurred, for, about mid-day, the +way was truly terrible, and one never knew when a tree trunk, small or +large, lying hidden under the water, would cause a terrific jolt to the +cart, despite the utmost efforts on the part of our cocheros. However, +we passed from the extreme danger zone into the comparatively smooth +waters of the flooded lands. So we drove on, our drivers and guides +becoming more and more chilled with the rain and cold, but always +cheerful, till at last wire fencing and other signs of civilisation +marked our approach to the precincts of Las Gamas. This was indeed a +welcome sight to the party, for all were beginning to feel the need of +food and shelter, and though the "passengers" in the coaches were +comparatively dry, despite the continual downpour, the drivers were wet +through long ago and the peons had not been dry since dawn. + +[Illustration: _Tannin Extract Factory._] + +No one was sorry when "The Jehu," to shorten the drive, ordered some of +the wire fencing to be dropped so that we might proceed in a straight +line to the house instead of making the considerable detour to the gate. +It was past three o'clock when, after a side-slip or two, and consequent +meeting with gate-posts, we drew up in front of the estancia house and +noticed on the outbuildings a damp flag trying to flap a weary "welcome" +to the party of Tacuruers. The first thing was to get The Jehu from his +driving seat and into a warm bath, and the same treatment was meted out +to The Chaperon, and hot whisky and water for all! Our host and hostess +gave us such a genial welcome and the big room looked so dry and +inviting, with a wood fire crackling in the grate, that our troubles, +which had, during the long hours of to-day's tedious drive, assumed +really serious proportions, were soon forgotten as we sat down, in an +incredibly short time, to a hearty meal of roast turkey and mince pies! +We almost fell to wishing each other a Happy Christmas, and +instinctively wondered if roast chestnuts would form part of the +afternoon's programme. Unfortunately, chestnuts of an allegorical kind +_did_ enter into the proceedings. Meanwhile, the rain continued its +unceasing downpour. It was some time before the baggage waggons arrived +on the scene, and, needless to say, they and their contents were very +damp. But the peons soon had the goods unpacked, and ere long were happy +and dry in the big galpon round a roaring fire, which they must have +badly needed. Their behaviour all through this terrible day, sometimes +under most trying circumstances, had been splendid, and it says a good +deal for master as well as for man that not once was a sound of +discontent heard. In fact, the men often suggested themselves little +things in which they thought they might help the caretakers of the +party. It was a relief to us all to know that the work of those peons +had ended for the day with the caring for the horses and unpacking of +the goods. + +Monte still accompanied us, but here he had to be kept under strict +surveillance, for dogs were numerous on the premises, and several of +them were not of the kind who brook any encroachment, however harmless, +on their preserves; so poor Monte was perforce shut up, away from the +house, where Bear and his companions could not take exception to the +presence of an interloper. The late afternoon and evening were chiefly +spent in having warm baths, which were most grateful after the, of +necessity, somewhat sketchy ablutions of the past three days. Now that +the safe arrival of the luggage was an accomplished fact, and the +travellers clothed and fed, there seemed little reason for late hours, +and it was not long after dinner when the general dispersal took place. +We only waited to hear a few selections of songs on the beautiful +gramophone which our host had received a few months ago as a Christmas +greeting from England. It must be difficult for those at home to +realise what an immense amount of pleasure a good gramophone can give to +the dwellers in the far camp lands. This instrument was in constant +request, and both the machine and records were extraordinarily good. +Still, even this great attraction did not tempt the party to sit up +late; everyone was tired and exhausted, and our cocheros, more +especially the Jehu, must have been worn out with their exertions of the +day. We can only hope they will suffer no after ill effects from their +arduous task and severe drenchings. + +[Illustration: _Some of the Horses._] + +Our horses have been simply wonderful during this trip. We have driven, +ridden, and brought along nearly 100 animals for 150 miles, and have not +lost one upon the journey. This speaks volumes for the care and training +bestowed upon the animals at the head estancia, and we are inclined to +think that few other places could supply as many animals to do such +trying work. The fitness of our animals is owing entirely to the +continual attention and care they receive daily at the estancia. + + * * * * * + +_We are sorry to be obliged to hold over all correspondence, +advertisements, etc., to-day, as, doubtless owing to the floods, no +communications had reached us up to the time of going to press. We hope +all correspondents will accept our sincere apologies for the unavoidable +delay in dealing with letters and orders; all despatches shall receive +our earnest attention as soon as they come to hand._ + + + + +"THE TACURU." + +No. 9 + +_Sunday, April 3rd, 1910._ + + +Dawn showed us no respite of the drenching rain; the paths, the garden, +and the camps were all flooded with the continuous rain of yesterday and +last night, and still it poured. After disposing of a more substantial +breakfast than had fallen to the lot of the travellers for some days, +there seemed little to do save listen to the dulcet strains of the +gramophone, which proved a welcome diversion. A considerable disturbance +was caused by a dog fight under the table round which we were sitting; +whether intentional or not on the part of the animals, the rout of the +ladies was complete, and the dogs were only separated by the calm +procedure of some of the men who held them under the water taps until +their ardour was cooled. Monte was out of all this trouble, for he had +been consigned to the security of the galpon to avoid trouble concerning +rights of way which would assuredly have arisen between himself and Bear +(the big bulldog of the estancia) had they met. Bear amused the company +by presenting a truly comical sight, some minutes later, when he decided +to have a drink after his fight; he walked with majestic mien up to the +water spout, which jutted out from the house a few feet from the ground, +and, poking out his heavy under-jaw, collected the flow of water in his +mouth in a most satisfying way, for a few seconds. Of course, The +Instigator started off pacing and measuring the room's verandah, etc., +in order to devise a scheme for the best improvements for the estancia, +and before long he and The Delineator had made out a plan which would +drive any member of the R.I.B.A. to desperation, but caused its authors +enormous joy. The Jehu and The Chaperon were occupied for some time in +seeing to the comfort of their men and animals, and trying to dry the +tents, clothes, etc., by the huge fire in the galpon in which the peons +were housed for the day. We are told that one Tacuruer tried to employ +the morning remuneratively by opening a temporary barber's shop on the +verandah, and advertising "hair-cutting and shaving"; possibly he might +have built up a successful business in time, but unfortunately for him +his first customer's beard was too unyielding for the ordinary scissors +and the customer objected to the way in which the horse clippers were +used on the hirsute growth of his chin, and talked of his treatment +afterwards in a way that did not inspire confidence in the other +might-have-been customers, who were observed to slink away one by one +from the barber's chair as if it were infected. We regret that a +well-meant enterprise on the part of one of The Tacuru party met with +such a poor reception. + +A gleam of ceasing rain--it was not sunshine--gave courage to some of +the more energetic members of the party to go forth to inspect the heaps +of wood about to be made into charcoal in the neighbourhood of the +estancia, if any could be reached on dry land. For to-morrow the visit +to the La Gallareta factory will occupy the day, and the Charcoal piles +are too interesting a sight to be left unvisited now that we are in the +wood department of the Santa Fé Land Company. + +In the northern districts where trees are numerous it is necessary to +"distroncar" the land before the soil can be brought into condition +suitable for the plough. In other words all the trees and roots must be +removed before ploughing operations commence. But the timber so obtained +is not wasted; the branches and all pieces not big enough to be used for +sleepers, etc., are cut up into various suitable lengths and piled +together in such a manner that when finished the heap presents the +appearance of a huge beehive; the centre of this dome running from the +apex to the ground is a hollow cylinder; this tube or pipe is filled up +with the small sticks and twigs from the trees, and when all is in +readiness the contents of the cylinder are fired from the top, the fire +slowly burns downwards and sets light to the surrounding logs which in +their turn smoulder till they become charcoal. But the match is not +applied until the whole mass of wood has been covered up and plastered +over with mud, to prevent the entrance of any air. The kiln thus forms +an enclosed retort, and the wood is carbonised and makes excellent +charcoal, which eventually finds its way to Buenos Aires and other +cities, where immense quantities are used for cooking and heating +purposes. If all goes well, the kiln being well built, and no air +admitted, some thirty to forty tons of charcoal are produced from one of +these heaps; not infrequently, however, the crown breaks in; this allows +the air to enter, the wood is completely burnt, and the labour expended +on this "horno" is represented by a few cartloads of useless ash. The +thought of these possible failures was too much for The Instigator; he +held forth, at length, upon the advisability of bringing a little +science to bear upon the problem of preventing any waste of the material +itself or of the by-products. His theory is that to make the best use of +nature's lavish gifts in the way of wood products, an iron or brick +still should be erected, on the inside of which the heavy tarry products +would naturally accumulate, and so find their way to the base of the +kiln where they could be collected and run out into casks for +utilisation, whilst the lighter vapours are condensed in the hood of the +still to be chemically treated later for their highly valuable +properties, and the charcoal itself would be a more certain production +from these brick or iron kilns than it is from the present heaps. At +this point of his lecture the weather became impossible, and when The +Instigator discovered that he was expatiating to the camp and rain +alone, he, too, turned to seek the shelter of the estancia house, +whither his audience had long ago fled. For some time we watched the +storm as it worked up with intense fury. The lightning as it illuminated +the whole camp was a wonderful sight, it seemed to flash (and this was +before the dinner hour) yellow light from the north, red from the south, +and a bright white light from the east, and was of long continuance. The +culminating point seemed to come when an appalling crash was heard and +something appeared to have been struck by lightning. This drove the +party indoors, though from the time of the crash (we found later that it +was the telephone which had suffered), the storm abated and only steady +rain continued. However, nothing more could be done out of doors, and +everyone was glad of warmth and shelter, while they hoped for a better +day to-morrow. + +Songs occupied the evening, and most of the party retired early to bed. + +The Editor regrets that up to the time of going to press to-day, the +advertisements, correspondence, etc., due for yesterday's issue had not +reached the office; he fears they may have been lost, and requests that +all orders may be repeated. + + * * * * * + +The following advertisements of to-day's dating have been sent in:-- + +HAIR CUTTING AND SHAVING while you wait.--Lowest prices. Large supply of +tools, or customers may bring their own instruments if preferred. Good +style guaranteed. Customers' comfort not so much considered as thorough +work. Satisfaction certain.--T.C., THE VERANDAH. + +WANTED.--Reliable Barber--for clipping advertiser's beard weekly, at own +residence. May be required to travel. Gentleness much appreciated; +advertiser would give valuable information on any subject in return for +Barber's services.--T.I., LAS GAMAS. + + * * * * * + +WANTED--By several people; good book on "How not to lose at Bridge." +Anyone possessing a copy of this valuable work for sale, please quote +lowest price to The Editor, _Tacuru_ Office. + + * * * * * + +Monday, April 4th, 1910. + +The Editor and Staff of "The Tacuru" announce with great regret the +unavoidable demise of the journal known and respected by all as "The +Tacuru." This valuable and instructive periodical has become a necessity +to every happy home. The Editor hoped long to continue his beneficent +task of bringing a daily joy into the lives of all English-speaking and +reading people; but, alas, just as he bore "his blushing honours thick +upon him," there came a flood, an awful flood, and carried away his +hopes and printing press (we believe some people were drowned, too). +Therefore we must, perforce, bid our readers "farewell, a long +farewell." Though not, we hope, for ever. Printing presses are not +unique, and some day, in the land of civilisation, we hope to be able to +make our loss good and bring happiness and information once more to +countless millions. In case any of our readers would like to erect a +monument of gratitude to "The Tacuru," in memory of the enjoyment, or +otherwise, this paper has brought into their lives, we would mention +that the printing-press and a few lives were lost on the way to Olmos. +We are able to publish a photo of extreme interest, depicting the +counting of the loss after the deluge. With this, and our deepest +regrets, we must pause, trusting that some day our great work may be +renewed under similarly happy circumstances, by the same staff, to whom, +and to all contributors, willing or unwilling, a thousand thanks. + +[Illustration: _"Awful Flood."_] + +[Illustration: _On the Way to Olmos._] + + + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Argentina From A British Point Of View, by Various + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14366 *** |